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Columns – Mary Ewing-Mulligan

A Good Glass of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon-or Maybe Three
Mary Ewing-Mulligan
Jan 25, 2022

I do love a glass of good Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. I love the refined, elegant examples, and I love the powerful examples, provided that alcohol and new oak don't dominate the wine and the fruit does not taste raisined. But I'm partial to the Cabs from the Mount Veeder AVA, where vines grow at the highest elevations in Napa Valley; the growing season is the longest, promising slow, complete flavor development; and the crop levels average about half that of other appellations, fostering concentration. Three wines from Brandlin Estate (formerly called Brandlin Winery) have me particularly excited. Two of them are labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon, while the third, called 'Henry's Keep,' is labelled a Red Wine (although Cabernet dominant), and all of them are from the fairly cool 2018 vintage. They are all amazingly smooth and are very flavorful with rich but fresh fruit expression.

A Good Glass of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon-or Maybe Three
Mary Ewing-Mulligan
Jan 25, 2022

I do love a glass of good Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. I love the refined, elegant examples, and I love the powerful examples, provided that alcohol and new oak don't dominate the wine and the fruit does not taste raisined. But I'm partial to the Cabs from the Mount Veeder AVA, where vines grow at the highest elevations in Napa Valley; the growing season is the longest, promising slow, complete flavor development; and the crop levels average about half that of other appellations, fostering concentration. Three wines from Brandlin Estate (formerly called Brandlin Winery) have me particularly excited. Two of them are labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon, while the third, called 'Henry's Keep,' is labelled a Red Wine (although Cabernet dominant), and all of them are from the fairly cool 2018 vintage. They are all amazingly smooth and are very flavorful with rich but fresh fruit expression.