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White:
Heidi Schröck & Söhne, Burgenland (Austria) Weissburgunder 2022 ($25, Skurnik Wines):  There are excellent examples of Pinot Blanc, also known as Weissburgunder or Pinot Bianco, grown around the world. The Austrian Burgenland village of Rust is most noted for dessert wines, but it is a good source for dry wines as well. Heidi Schröck has been a noted Burgenland winemaker for decades and has now teamed up with sons Georg and Johannes to form Heidi Schröck & Söhne. Their 2022 Weissburgunder is a wonderful expression of Austrian Pinot Blanc. Forward scents of pear, apple, citrus and tropical fruit are enhanced by subtle floral and spice tones. On the palate, the lemon, red apple, and pear fruit are followed by a minerally-clean, dry finish. This is a consistent, high quality Weissburgunder that is worth seeking out.
90 Wayne Belding Oct 8, 2024
Burgundy:
Sparkling:
Albert Bichot, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Brut Reserve NV ($30, Epic Wine & Spirits):  Albert Bichot is determined to showcase the exceptional quality of Crémants, and the house succeeds with this NV Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Reserve. The grapes are vinified and undergo a second fermentation using the méthode traditionnelle, resulting in a Crémant with fine, persistent bubbles and a brilliant golden hue. The bouquet offers vibrant citrus aromas of lime, nectarine, and grapefruit, accented by delicate white blossoms. On the palate, it’s lively and fresh, delivering clean precision and a beautifully long finish.
93 Miranda Franco Oct 8, 2024
White:
Bernard Defaix, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2022 ($92, Old World Import):  Chablis is perhaps the most distinctive of all Chardonnay wines, and Grand Cru Chablis is the ultimate expression of the Chablisienne vineyards. Drawn from the best sites on the steep slopes above the village, Grand Cru Chablis combines power with a raciness not found in other Chardonnays. Bernard Defaix’s excellent 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir reflects the elemental style of the site. The nose shows crisp apple, peach and lemon fruits interwoven with floral, nut, herb, honey, and spice nuances. On the palate, the ripeness of the 2022 harvest shows with the apple and citrus flavors interwoven with peach and tropical fruit nuances. These layers of fruit are enhanced by honey, nut, and herb elements. The finish is pure and refreshing with the oyster-shell minerality of Chablis evident. This a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis, but it will reward those who choose to cellar it for 5 to 10 years and let it evolve.
93 Wayne Belding Oct 8, 2024
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Languedoc-Roussillon:
Red:
Department 66, Cotes Catalanes (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) “Others” 2018 ($42, Pharaon):  After his success with The Prisoner Wine Company, Dave Phinny invested in 40 acres of land in the Pyrenees and planted Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan to start his next project, Department 66. His Others brings all the same power that The Prisoner was known for. It sees 12 months in 30% new French oak which gives a heavy, helping hand to its structure. The wine is dominated by fig, prune, orange peel, anise, molasses, and chewing tobacco notes. Department 66 provides a uniquely American twist on French wine.
88 Vince Simmon Oct 8, 2024
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Loire Valley:
White:
Delaille, Loire Valley (France) Sauvignon Blanc “Unique” 2023 ($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):  Unique is a relatively new addition to wines from the Domaine du Salvard which is owned by the Delaille family. Now in the hands of the 5th generation, the wines are made by the Delaille brothers who draw from the family vineyards in Touraine, due east of Sancerre. Unlike most wines from this region which are blended with Chardonnay, Unique is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc fermented in stainless and given a few months of lees aging. The aroma is very Sancerre-like with notes of bright green apple, lime, and a flinty, mineral component. It is medium bodied with a pleasing mouthfeel and crisp green apple flavors. With good balancing acidity, it finishes long and is ever so food friendly.
91 Norm Roby Oct 8, 2024
Red:
Dautel, Wurttemberg (Germany) Pinot Noir Estate 2022 ($28, Skurnik Wines):  Father and son, Ernst and Christian Dautel farm 20 hectares of grapes using biodynamic methods in what seems to me to be the little known region of Wurttemberg, located north of Stuttgart. Christian is making the wines these days and has a wide range of experience, from winemaking education in Germany to production in Oregon, Australia, South Africa, and Austria prior to returning to the family estate. This estate-level Pinot Noir will give any equally priced American Pinot a run for its money. It is made from two sites featuring red sandstone soils and was aged only in large, neutral oak vats, so all of the notes of baking spice and chocolate here come from the grapes themselves. Besides those dark notes there is a deep, rich plum note and a dry, higher acid palate feel which lends a fresh, snappy, driving impression.
93 Andrew Holod Oct 8, 2024
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Mosel-Saar-Ruwer:
White:
Karthauserhof, Mosel-Ruwer-Saar (Germany) Dry Riesling "Bruno" 2022 ($27, The German Wine Collection):  Fruit for this estate level, non-vineyard-designated wine, is grown on a unique soil (rock pile) made up of bi-color blue and pink slate above the coolest tributary of the Ruwer river, itself one of the tributaries of the Mosel. Super complex layered aromas start with an oceanic blue/green mineral initial sniff followed by zesty orchard fruits, green apples and crisp pear. With some aeration a primary yeasty element comes up with an echo of yellow florals/chamomile and green, sappy softly vegetal notes. The winery has been making wine since 1335 and the wine is named for Bruno of Cologne who was the founder of the Carthusian monastic order. The winery farms organically and is in transition to biodynamic farming.
91 Andrew Holod Oct 8, 2024
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Pfalz:
White:
Pfeffingen, Pfalz (Germany) Dry Scheurebe 2022 ($25, The German Wine Collection):  First a quick note about the variety, Scheurebe. It was created in 1917 by Dr Gerog Scheu and is a genetic cross of Riseling and an unknown and possibly wild grape. It is a relatively rare variety with worldwide plantings only around 5,000 acres. It is often characterized by notes of black currants, grapefruit and/or elderflower, and can produce both dry and sweet wines. This version from Pfeffingen, a specialist of Scheurebe, is packed with pink-blushed white and green tones recalling white grapefruit, drying, fresh-cut green hay, mint stems, spicy Thai basil, green tea, jasmine and peach blossoms. It is so elegantly proportioned, all I managed to write about the balance of texture and flavor was a single word, “perfect.”
92 Andrew Holod Oct 8, 2024
Von Winning, Pfalz (Germany) Sauvignon Blanc “II” 2023 ($21, Skurnik Wines):  This bright, zesty Sauvignon Blanc combines both cool notes of freshly cut green grass and herbs along with a richer, melon-tinged ripeness. The flavors last and last, leading into an impressively impactful and persistent finish. The textural aspect of this wine elevates it well above the sea of mass market Sauvignon Blanc from any appellation for just a few dollars more per bottle. This wine is made from two sites in Diedesheim, Paradiesgarten ("Paardise Garden") and Herrgottsacker ("Lord God Bless”). I do love German vineyard names.
91 Andrew Holod Oct 8, 2024
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Rheinhessen:
Sparkling:
Braunewell, Rheinhessen (Germany) Rosé Brut 2021 ($35, Skurnik Wines):  This sparkling wine is made following traditional methods, including secondary fermentation in the bottle, by third-generation wine growing brothers Christian and Stefan Braunewell. It offers complex aromas of crushed/macerated ripe strawberry and a lactic, slightly yeasty fresh cream note. While the aromas are inviting, the wine hits another gear on the first sip with driven acidity balanced by just the right dosage that really makes the red fruit character pop on the palate. The finish is slightly minty and cool. Nearly texturally perfect as sparkling wine goes, this wine can compete with some Grower’s Champagnes at around half the price of their French counterparts.
94 Andrew Holod Oct 8, 2024
White:
Wagner Stempel, Rheinhessen (Germany) Weissburgunder 2021 ($24, The German Wine Collection):  This wine is made from fruit grown on sandy clay over mother rock of volcanic origin, which imparts a rounder texture to the finished wine. Starting with a panoply of white fruit aromas including pear, white peach, and green-tinged apricot are followed by a sapid, cyanic raw almond note which morphs into caramelized almond croissant-like flavor. In the mouth the wine is only gently fruity and while dry has a more ample, silky texture. I rarely find Pinot Blanc compelling, however this one is well and truly interesting and should work wonders with autumn menus of mushrooms, white fleshed meats, and root veggies.
93 Andrew Holod Oct 8, 2024
White:
Zacharias, Peloponnese (Greece) Assyrtiko 2023 ($16, Stellar Imports):  Assyrtiko wines from the island of Santorini have become so popular that Assyrtiko is being planted in other areas of mainland Greece. This Assyrtiko, from the Zacharias winery in Nemea, shows many of the characteristics of Santorini Assyrtiko. The wine combines floral freshness, pure fruit, and a rich texture. The 2023 Zacharias Assyrtiko opens with pleasing floral notes of jasmine and fruit blossoms. These are supported by elements of lemon zest, peach, tropical fruit, and a hint of herbs. The flavors are pure and lively, with citrus peel, peach and tropical fruit flavors underlain by subtle herb and spice tones. It will provide great tasting enjoyment for the next 2 to 3 years.
91 Wayne Belding Oct 8, 2024
Alto Adige:
White:
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2023 ($19, HB Wine Merchants):  This isn’t your mom’s Pinot Grigio. Hailing from the vineyards of the Italian Dolomites, the Peter Zemmer 2023 Alto Adige Pinot Grigio delights with its light, buoyant character and vibrant notes of citrus, white peach, pear, grapefruit, and crushed mineral. It showcases true varietal depth with bright acidity, a feather-light body, and a surprisingly long finish. This wine stands out as one of the best value finds from Alto Adige.
93 Miranda Franco Oct 8, 2024
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Marche:
White:
DeAngelis, Falerio DOC (Marche, Italy) “Campo di Marte” 2022 ($13, Potomac Selections):  DeAngelis’ Campo di Marte Falerio is zippy white with notes recalling nectarine, white peache, pear, and tropical pineapple. Its bright acidity is easy to pair with food but also easy to drink on your porch. At $13, this wine is an absolute steal. Drink now, as this wine will keep your summer going.
92 Vince Simmon Oct 8, 2024
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Piedmont:
Red:
Paolo Scavino, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Nebbiolo 2022 ($25, Skurnik Wines):  Nebbiolo is one of Italy’s most noble grape varieties responsible for wines like Barolo, often called the “King of Wines and Wine of Kings.” Fortunately, for those who love wine but cannot spend $45 to $100 plus for Barolo, Paolo Scavino offers this delightfully affordable and drinkable wine. Made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes that were sourced from selected vines, which the producer states are from “sites which enhance the more ethereal Nebbiolo aromatics and structure.” Those grapes were very carefully handled in the winery. Gently crushed grapes were fermented at a cool temperature, spent a very short time in neutral oak barrels, and then moved to stainless steel tanks. The result is a gentle version of Nebbiolo with bright black cherry and raspberry fruit with a hint of roses, crisp acidity, and yes, with solid tannins.
91 Rebecca Murphy Oct 8, 2024
White:
Paolo Scavino, Langhe Bianco (Piedmont, Italy) “Sorriso” 2022 ($21, Skurnik Wines):  This unique and delicious white wine from the Scavino family in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier made from sustainably farmed grapes vinified and aged in stainless steel. It has a pale, yellow color, delicate citrus aromas and flavors with dusty mineral notes, and a silky-smooth texture in the mouth.
93 Rebecca Murphy Oct 8, 2024
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Tuscany:
Red:
Badia di Morrona, Chianti DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2022 ($18, VOS Selections):  Wines from the subregions of Chianti, like Chianti Classico or Chianti Rufina, often overshadow the wines from Chianti. Well, it’s a mistake for consumers to ignore wines labeled Chianti, a broad region with its own DOCG that can be home to excellent wines. Take this one from Badia di Morrona, for example. Bright, cherry-like flavors take center stage. Not polished or glamorous, it is just authentic with an ideal marriage of fruitiness balanced by lively herbal nuances. If you are in a part of the country that’s still summery, you could chill it a bit because the tannins are so mild and unobtrusive. However you serve it, it’s a great option today for take-out rotisserie chicken or pizza.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2024
Badia di Morrona, Chianti Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “I Sodi del Paretaio” 2021 ($26, VOS Selections):  Badia di Morrona’s more substantial Chianti Riserva has the same wonderful combination of cherry-like fruit accented by spice and herbal nuances as their non-Riserva. The energy of the 2021 vintage is apparent and keeps the wine lively. Either drink it now with hearty fare or give it another year or so for the tannins to soften. So, don’t chill this one!
92 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2024
White:
Badia di Morrona, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Felciaio” 2023 ($20, VOS Selections):  Badia di Morrona packs unusually good depth into their Vermentino. Saline-tinged acidity keeps it fresh and balances its weight. This Vermentino has real substance so uncork it with creatures from the sea that are swimming in a hearty sauce.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2024
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Veneto:
Rosé:
Casaretti, Chiaretto di Bardolino DOC (Veneto, Italy) "Rosa Dei Casaretti" 2023 ($25, Wine Drops Imports):  Casaretti is a family-owned and run winery on the hills above Lake Garda in Italy’s Veneto region. Chiaretto di Bardolino is a small DOC made specifically to highlight the region’s high-quality rosé wines. Known for their complexity with floral aromatics and bright acidity, these wines are easy to enjoy for both new drinkers and advanced sommeliers. Casaretti’s 2023 vintage shows orange blossom, nectarine, tangerine, and strawberry notes. The body is lightly creamy which balances against the wine’s crisp acidity. While this rosé is arguably excellent year round, I think this is an excellent transition wine between summer in and winter Rosé styles. The blend is 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, and 10% Molinara. This has the crisp notes that make rosé wines exciting in the summer but also has the complexity and creaminess that I seek in my winter wines.
94 Vince Simmon Oct 8, 2024
White:
Suavia, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2023 ($18, Winebow):  Garganega is experiencing a renaissance, and Suavia stands at the forefront of this revival. The Tessari sisters—Meri, Valentina, and Alessandra—have been leading their family’s Suavia winery since the early 2000s, producing some of the finest Soave on the market. Their 2023 Soave Classico, an organic 100% Garganega, showcases vibrant citrus aromas, with layers of lemon curd and white rose transitioning to a subtle hint of crushed flint, reflecting the volcanic soils of the vineyards. On the palate, almond and citrus flavors are complemented by refreshing acidity and a lively, enduring freshness.
92 Miranda Franco Oct 8, 2024
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Venezia Giulia:
White:
Jermann, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) “Vintage Tunina” 2020 ($73, Maze Row Wine Merchant):  Jermann's 2020 Vintage Tunina a very refreshing blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, and Malvasia grapes which combine to provide lots of spritz, green fruits such as lime and kiwi, and a tart finish.
91 Roger Morris Oct 8, 2024
California:
Red:
The Prisoner Wine Company, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($60):  A very engaging and good-value wine, it has firm structure but is lively on the palate with lots of ripe purple flavors of blackberry and cassis and with some excellent leathery notes that do not diminish the full-bodied mouth feel. The finish features lots of walnut-y tannins.
93 Roger Morris Oct 8, 2024
Le Vigne, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Di Domenico” 2021 ($28):  I have come to admire this producer for both quality and value, and this wine shows a lot of both of those virtues. I’ve also admired the wines whether tasting un-concealed press samples or when tasting “blind” in multiple wine competitions, so I’m quite confident I’ve got this scored correctly despite its modest price. It is obviously well grown and well made, as everything from its aromas to its flavors and proportions of fruit, wood, and tannins are all just right. It shows a nice spice accent atop the delicious fruit, but isn’t overly woody. Snap this up if you see it.
94 Michael Franz Oct 8, 2024
Robert Hall Winery, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Artisan Collection” 2021 ($20):  Cabernet Sauvignon is still the king of red wines, and renditions like this one serve as exemplars. Of course, there’s a wide stylistic range possible with the variety. This falls near the center of the spectrum, with a mix of black and red berries, gentle oak toast, soft pepper, supple tannins, and a long finish where all the elements are well knit together. It’s light enough to pair with chicken or pork and will also work well with beef dishes. Nicely done, particularly at this price point.
94 Rich Cook Oct 8, 2024
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2022 ($30):  Raspberry and bright Bing cherry fruit leap from the rim of this glass, with notes of powder and cinnamon joining in. Bright acidity carries the fruit from start to finish on the palate, with bright but light oak toast, fall spice and a little hint of stemmy pepper that is a great foil for the fruit. This Russian River Pinot Noir makes for a fine solo glass, or it can be a perfect fit for your Thanksgiving table.
94 Rich Cook Oct 8, 2024
Del Dotto Vineyards, St. Helena - Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon French Oak, Block 3 2019 ($251):  Part of a pair of wines as a meditation on oak (see review of the American oak version), it has very smooth flavors of red and black berries with a fair amount of wood notes and dusty tannins – very enjoyable. Although the American oak version is slightly more-structured, this Cabernet Sauvignon is perhaps richer and a bit more harmonious.
93 Roger Morris Oct 8, 2024
Del Dotto Vineyards, St. Helena - Napa Valley (California) American Oak, Block 2 2019 ($251):  Part of a pair of wines as a meditation on oak (see review of the French oak version), this Cabernet has very smooth flavors of red and black berries with a fair amount of wood notes and dusty tannins – very enjoyable. The oak notes, as one might expect, are a little more pronounced in this bottling, and it is perhaps a little more structured.
92 Roger Morris Oct 8, 2024
White:
Bouchaine Vineyards & Winery, Los Carneros (California) “Alsatian Blend” 2023 ($50):  Not a standard blend from the Carneros region – Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Riesling – even though it is a cooler region. The wine delivers as promised with the green fruit flavors of the first two and the aromatics and spiciness of the second two. It’s very fruity, floral, and tangy but it lacks some of the subtlety that those grapes generally deliver, although it will pair well with assertive dishes.
89 Roger Morris Oct 8, 2024
New Clairvaux Vineyard, Tehama County (California) Viognier “St. James Block 2023 ($20):  Viognier from the USA has presented such a spectrum of styles and weights over its time here that it’s hard for consumers to know what to expect without a little guidance. I am happy to recommend this version, which leans toward floral, stone fruit, and soft wood tones without going overtly viscous, sweet, or bittering. It is delicious from beginning to end, and whether you dive into it as a solo glass, or with salads or seafood, it is a beauty, and at a great price to boot.
95 Rich Cook Oct 8, 2024
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Oregon:
White:
Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Grüner Veltiner "Cask 2" 2023 ($44):  I stopped by Reustle Vineyards recently to enjoy the beautiful site on a beautiful sunny day. I was impressed by new vintages of Tempranillo and Syrah, but when the winery’s dog named “Gruner" decides to cozy up by your side, you give the wine by the same name your full attention. Reustle, located in the Umpqua Valley north of Roseburg, is the pioneer and to me the undisputed champion of Grüner Veltliner in the USA. Its 2023 “Cask 2” Grüner, the first to be aged in Austrian white oak, goes off the charts. So vibrant, yet complex, with tons of flavor. It is all about pear, green apple and a zesty citrus profile. The juicy pear flavors reveal a touch of lemon thyme and a subtle hint of oak. Then it concludes with a bright and refreshing palate tingling acidity. 210 cases were bottled.
94 Norm Roby Oct 8, 2024
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