|
|
 |
Mendoza:
Red:
Virgen, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2021 ($13, Origins Organic Imports):  Virgen is a label of Domaine Bousquet, which specializes in organic wines from Argentina, aimed at the entry-level or weekday wine market, and this Malbec fits into that niche nicely. It is a very refreshing wine that drinks well and doesn’t take itself too seriously, with bright cherry flavors that are balanced by dry herbal notes. While not complex in its tastes, it has good mouth feel and good structure.
88 Roger Morris May 30, 2023
Clare Valley:
White:
Grosset, Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling “Alea” 2022 ($41, Hudson Wine Brokers):  Clare Valley Riesling wines are in a class of their own, and so is Jeffrey Grosset. He fell in love with Clare Valley Riesling when he was 15 years old. He studied Agriculture and Oenology at Roseworthy Agricultural College. He started his winery in 1981. He lead the charge in the battle to recognize the screw cap as the best closure for preserving Riesling’s charming freshness. If you are familiar with Australian Rieslings, Alea is a bit of a surprise, since it has a bit of residual sugar. However, there's just a bit of it, and it has the effect of softening the wine without muting Riesling’s bright and lively acidity. Precise and pristine with flavors of lime and lemon mingling with floral notes, crisp and lively with a mouthwatering finish. The grapes come from the Rockwood Vineyard, which is certified organic and biodynamic by AOC, Australia’s largest certifier for organic and biodynamic produce.
93 Rebecca Murphy May 30, 2023
Back to Top
South Australia:
White:
Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (Australia) Dry Riesling 2021 ($19, Winebow):  As the label suggests this is a bone dry wine with zippy lime-leaf aromas, round pear flavors and piquant, lemony acidity. It is a lively and versatile companion suitable for a late spring picnic, pool party, or a Sunday dinner with grilled shellfish. The first wine grapevines were planted in Eden Valley in South Australia by Joseph Gilbert in 1847. Over time, the property fell into disuse, but that changed in 1970 when the Hill-Smith family of Yalumba Winery purchased the vineyard and reestablished it using plantings propagated from the original vines. Although Eden Valley is within the broader Barossa Valley — famous for big, bold reds — its elevation is higher than Barossa, therefore, cooler with a longer growing season. This vintage is the first to achieve the qualifications to display the Sustainable Winegrowing seal of approval.
92 Rebecca Murphy May 30, 2023
Loire Valley:
White:
François Cazin, Cour-Cheverny (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($27, Louis/Dressner Selections):  Cour-Cheverny is a 73 hectare appellation within Cheverny that makes white wines from the Romorantin grape. François Cazin’s focuses on older vineyards with low yielding crops which gives the wine excellent depth of flavors ranging from red apple skins to dried apricot to fresh melon. The wine’s bright acidity makes it easy to pair with both creamy or oil-based dishes. At $27, this is an excellent wine to change up one’s white wine game.
91 Vince Simmon May 30, 2023
Back to Top
Provence:
Rosé:
Clos Cibonne, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé (Provence, France) Tibouren “Cuvée Spéciale des Vignettes” Rosé 2016 ($60, De Maison Selections):  Clos Cibonne has been making a Rosé since 1797 in a unique and somewhat unusual style – aged in huge 100-year-old oak vats under a local yeast called "fleurette," similar to Sherry. The 2016 Cuvée Speciale des Vignettes Tibouren, a native and almost extinct Provence varietal, is weightier and more complex than most Rosés. It shows a lovely salmon hue in the glass, and is redolent of blood orange, thyme, and ginger. It is a rich, plushly textured Rosé that exudes clementines, fresh herbs, almonds, and baking spices on the palate. It is backed with brisk acidity and minerality that carries onto the lingering finish. This makes for one of the most remarkable Provencal wines around.
94 Miranda Franco May 30, 2023
Back to Top
Rhône:
Red:
Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($14, Bowler):  Laudun, one of the 22 villages allowed to attach the village name to the Côte du Rhône Villages appellation, has applied for, and is likely to be elevated, to cru status, which would put it on a level with Rasteau and Cairanne, other named villages who were formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella. That means there is general agreement among French wine regulators, no easy group to satisfy, that the wines from this village are particularly distinctive and noteworthy. This mid-weight one from Domaine Pélaquié, one of the top producers in the region, certainly is. A blend of Grenache and Syrah, it delivers a harmonious balance of dark fruitiness and spicy savory nuances. It has good depth and remarkable refinement. You would never guess it weighs in at a 14.5 percent stated alcohol because there’s not a trace of heat, heaviness, or over ripeness. It’s not a powerhouse, but still makes a powerful presence. And it’s a bargain!
92 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023
White:
Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” 2022 ($15):  Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative. A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. It has sufficient racy edginess to hold up against sushi, or even chicken in a cream sauce. A delightful touch of alluring bitterness in the finish reminds you it is not overly fruity, which makes it perfect on the dinner table.
91 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023
White:
Istvan Szepsy, Tokaj (Hungary) Furmint 2018 ($42, Wine Revolution Merchants):  The Szepsy family is synonymous with Tokaj wine, their viticultural roots stretching back centuries to the golden age of Hungarian wine. István Szepsy was instrumental in bringing dry Furmint wines to prominence. The 2018 mineral-drenched Tokaji Furmint is a compelling reason why we should all drink more dry whites from the Furmint grape. It has a complex bouquet with pear, wax resin, and well-defined nutmeg aromas. The palate offers excellent texture, racy refreshment, and fine acidity with a dried pear and bruised apple finish.
94 Miranda Franco May 30, 2023
Galilee:
Red:
Carmel Signature, Galilee (Israel) Merlot Evyatar Creek Vineyard "Volcano" 2020 ($60, Royal Wine Corporation):  This engaging red wine comes from Carmel’s Evyatar Creek Vineyard. The vineyard is planted at a 2700-foot elevation in the Upper Galilee on the slopes of northern Israel’s Dalton Volcano. The deeply rooted vines are able to store water that they can then deliver as needed during the dry seasons. This terroir’s porous Tuff and Igneous volcanic rocks are also thought to influence the vines’ overall behavior as well as the ultimate flavor of the wine. Thanks to the work of chief winemaker Yiftach Perets, it delivers balanced acidity along with touches of earthiness and spice, all of which lends delicacy and elegance to the overall tasting experience. The wine is Kosher but not Mevushal.
93 Marguerite Thomas May 30, 2023
Alto Adige:
Red:
Muri-Gries, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Lagrein 2021 ($23, Potomac Selections):  Muri-Gries is located in the early 19th-century Muri-Gries Monastery situated in the town of Bolzano. As if that isn’t enough history, this rustic red is made from Lagrein, an even older grape varietal dating back as early as 1370. Even stranger, DNA testing has been inconclusive about Lagrein’s parentage, narrowing it down to a natural cross of Teroldego and some unknown variety. Muri-Gries makes this wine in both stainless steel and large wooden barrels to minimize imparting any additional flavors. The wine is driven by dark black and blue fruit with tobacco leaf, earthy mushroom, fig, and old leather. Its flavor complexity is ideal for enjoying this bottle while reading a book or sharing a charcuterie board with friends.
90 Vince Simmon May 30, 2023
Back to Top
Puglia:
Red:
Tenute Rubino, Brindisi DOC (Puglia, Italy) “Jaddico” Rosso Riserva 2017 ($20, Vinity Wine Company):  Italy’s Adriatic coast has traditionally produced Vermouth and inexpensive blended wines, but as Tenute Rubino’s “Jaddico” indicates the bar has recently been raised. This one is comprised of Negroamaro (80%) and Susumaniello (20%). Tenuta Rubino is located in the lower south-eastern end of Italy, which includes the heel of the boot. The word “Jaddico” itself refers to the rich vegetation found in this area. This was a thriving viticultural region at least as far back as the first century BC, when the Phoenicians, followed by the Greeks, were in charge. Until recently Puglia’s wines served primarily as blends for the region’s vermouth production but recent upgrades include a shift towards premium wines, with upgraded vineyard and winery practices now followed. Tenute Rubino’s mix of guyot and bush-trained vines seem well suited to the area’s mild climate and to the sandy, calcareous soils along the coast of Brindisi. The origins of Susumaniello, whose small, blue-black grapes are set in a large cluster, are not entirely clear although it has been associated with Sardinia for many centuries. This is a versatile wine that pairs tastily with such fare as burgers and other grilled meat, chicken curry, lamb kebobs, and truffled risotto.
93 Marguerite Thomas May 30, 2023
Cosimo Taurino, Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva (Puglia, Italy) 2011 ($20, Free Run Wine Merchants):  This 2011 is the current release of Cosimo Taurino’s Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva and it is just now entering the drinking window. The wine shows fresh cherry, prune, dried rosemary, leather, iron fillings, and strawberry notes. The high acidity and smooth, earthy tannins suggest that this wine can easily continue aging for another 10 years. That Cosimo Taurino is holding this wine for over 10 years before release is incredible but the fact that they’re still selling it for under $25 makes it drink more like highway robbery. Comprised of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera.
93 Vince Simmon May 30, 2023
Back to Top
Sicily:
Red:
Firriato, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Harmonium” 2014 ($41):  Made from one of Sicily’s native grapes, this robust red holds its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly, without a trace of heaviness. Smoke and other savory accents complement its dark plum-like fresh and dried fruit notes. Good balancing acidity keeps this mature beauty bright and fresh while fine tannins lend support without astringency. It’s another excellent choice when putting meat on the grill.
92 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023
White:
Di Giovanna, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Vurría” 2021 ($21, Regal Wine Imports):  This zippy Grillo, made from an indigenous Sicilian grape, is a great accompaniment to seafood, even in a hearty tomato sauce, because of austere style and lively saline acidity. Not an opulent or fruit-driven wine, it is light weight, with a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol. But it is not light in enjoyment. That racy acidity and hint of bitterness in the finish enhance its appeal.
89 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023
Back to Top
Tuscany:
Red:
Podere Sapaio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Sapaio” 2019 ($94, Soilair Selection):  Podere Sapaio, founded in 1999, is making itself known among the Super Tuscan with their flagship wine, Sapaio. A blend of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Petit Verdot (20%) and Cabernet Franc, the stylish Sapaio impresses with a plush, velvety texture that shouts, “I’m important.” And it is. A hint of smoke and tar brilliantly offset its balanced array of red and dark fruit. But it’s the glossy texture that’s impressive at this stage since the flavors need time to blossom. The tannins remain suave regardless of how long they remain on the palate. Bright Tuscan acidity in the finish — recalling sour red cherries — amplify its appeal. Even considering its 14.5 percent stated alcohol, it is not dense, heavy nor over ripe. Fine to drink now because of that glossiness, I suspect this wine will evolve beautifully with a decade or so of bottle age because of its elegance and balance.
93 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023
Galicia:
White:
Alvaredos-Hobbs, Ribera Sacra (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2019 ($75, Paul Hobbs Selections):  Paul Hobbs seems to always be on the search for new grapes to ferment. Not long after launching his Finger Lakes Rieslings at Hillick & Hobbs, he now gives us a delectable white wine from the magical hills of Galicia in northeast Spain. Any wine writer who has passed through the region has immediately fallen in love with Godello, and the Alvaredos-Hobbs iteration reminds us those first impressions were not merely love at first site. This is a gorgeous, complex combo of rich but lean green flavors of lime and unripe gooseberries (the best way to eat them) blended with golden floral and nutty flavors of the grape itself as well as the time spent aging in barrels and foudres. This is a full wine with the textures – but not tastes – of Napa Valley Chardonnays, and it will make a delicious companion to pork and poultry dishes.
93 Roger Morris May 30, 2023
Back to Top
Ribera del Duero:
Red:
Pinea, Ribera del Duero (Spain) 2018 ($150, WineSmith Company):  Ribera del Duero may immediately bring Vega Sicilia or Pingus to mind. But Pinea's flagship wine, this 100% Tempranillo, stands shoulder-to-shoulder with those giants. The 2018 offers intoxicating aromas of black raspberry liqueur, black cherry, plum, cacao, cedar, damp soil, crushed rock, candied violet, and blueberry compote. Powerful and luxuriantly, this dark-fruited gem is utterly inviting on the palate. The palate is full-bodied with a plush texture, dark spicy fruit, and a balanced mineral note lurking throughout. This complex Tempranillo perfection is approachable now with a good decanting; however, to truly experience its full potential, this should enjoy some time in your cellar.
96 Miranda Franco May 30, 2023
Back to Top
Rioja:
Red:
Ramõn Bilbao, Rioja Crianza (Spain) 2019 ($15):  Wines from Rioja, arguably Spain’s most famous wine area, can provide terrific value. Just take this one for example. Crianza, an official designation of aging, means that the red wine has been aged for two years, at least one of which was in oak barrels, before release. Think of Crianza as the first tier of a “premium” or high-quality category. This mid-weight one still displays a hint of spicy oak nicely offset by juicy black cherry notes. Mild tannins and lively acidity in the balanced beauty allow for immediate enjoyment this summer with things like BBQ’ed chicken. It has remarkable length and complexity for the price.
90 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023
White:
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco (Spain) 2022 ($14, Carolina Wine Brands):  White Rioja, made chiefly from Viura, represents a little under 10 percent of the plantings in the region and is making a resurgence in the marketplace. This light and zesty one delivers a hint of minerality accompanied by refreshing saline-like acidity. Its palate-cleansing character makes it a fine choice for shellfish this summer.
87 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco Reserva (Spain) “Tres Viñas” 2019 ($16, Carolina Wine Brands):  Baron de Ley’s white Rioja Reserva has an entirely different — and weightier — profile compared to their regular bottling. The effects of oak-aging is apparent, but not intrusive. It adds weight and gravitas without dominating. Though there is more “oomph" here, it’s not a fruity wine, but paradoxically conveys an attractive austerity and an engaging hint of bitterness in the finish. Not a stand-alone aperitif type of wine, the power in this fresh and clean white Rioja calls for white meats, such as pork, chicken, or hearty seafood. What a bargain!
92 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023
California:
Red:
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Petite Sirah "Tower Road" 2020 ($35):  This typically approachable bottling is so again, showing solid varietal characteristics of black and blue fruit with pepper notes. A gentle hand with the oak treatment adds moderate toast notes, and supple tannins extend the finish. If you are looking for a deep, dark red wine for bold beef preparations you can’t go wrong with this. Contains 8% Malbec, 1% Grenache Blanc and 1% Viognier.
92 Rich Cook May 30, 2023
MacRostie Winery and Vineyard, Petaluma Gap (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Nightwing Vineyard 2021 ($62):  This wine shows the full throttle side of this winery’s Pinot Noir portfolio. It’s made in a big style that serves the ripe fruit well, playing deep black cherry fruit off layers of fall spice. It is fleshy, but maintains the signature long finish that marks the whole line. A light touch with the new oak (30%) was the perfect choice.
93 Rich Cook May 30, 2023
MacRostie Winery and Vineyard, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2021 ($58):  I always like this bottling for its dusty dry earth minerality that deepens the cherry and rhubarb fruit profile. Those aromas carry through on the palate, with the dusty character in front. Moderate grip and zippy acidity give a big finish push. Age this up to five years or decant long if enjoying in the near term.
92 Rich Cook May 30, 2023
Linne Calodo, Willow Creek District - Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Level Headed” 2019 ($95):  The ever-experimental team at Linne Calodo is at it again with this bold Grenache. It spent six months or so in concrete before being racked into oak fourde where it rested for another 30 months. The result is a mind bender — deep strawberry pie and kirsch aromas lead to an intensely concentrated palate, with a touch of heat showing. It works well with the fruit here. There’s no overt oak character, and vibrant pepper comes through in the finish with the heat pushing it. It’s of course highly stylized and not intended to show varietal typicity, but rather to stretch the envelope. The industry always needs pioneers willing to do just that. Contains 3% Syrah.
93 Rich Cook May 30, 2023
White:
Le Pich, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($32):  Purlieu’s sister label, “Le Pich,” gets its name from a Wappo Indian term meaning “golden eagle.” Purlieu’s winemaker is Julien Fayard who is well-known for high-end, often single vineyard Napa Cabernets. His Bordeaux background and experience come across in this Sauvignon Blanc which is reminiscent of top end Graves white wines. In other words, it captures lots of stone and mineral notes in both its aromas and flavors. The fruit recalls fresh pear with cloves, and the flavors and aftertaste show subtle grassiness and oak. It was aged for 10 months in neutral French oak. Overall, this is a vibrant, taut, mineral Sauvignon with a long, cleansing finish.
93 Norm Roby May 30, 2023
Ferrari-Carano Winery, North Coast (California) Fumé Blanc 2022 ($20):  Fumé Blanc was one of Ferrari-Carano’s first wines to hit the market and it made a big splash. And in many ways it became the signature wine over the early years. Since being acquired in 2020 by Foley Family wines, the winery has expanded production, and its Fumé Blanc is no longer made entirely from Sonoma County fruit. But the quality is still high and the winery isn’t heading in the popular slightly sweet finished direction. This 2022 was fermented in stainless steel with 30% fermented and lees aged in older French oak barrels. It shows peach, lime, and fresh herbs in the nose, and is medium bodied and zesty on the palate. The flavors are slightly grassy and lemony with some acidity adding length. It finishes clean and slightly crisp.
89 Norm Roby May 30, 2023
Eleven Eleven Wines, Rutherford - Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc Beckstoffer Melrose Vineyard 2022 ($42):  Boldly styled and boldly priced, this wine will fulfil its promise fully with another year of aging, but can prove quite enjoyable now for those who enjoy oaky spice in their Sauvignons and drink them with food. Medium-bodied but quite spicy and even a bit toasty, this pushes its luck with its woody aspect in relation to the fruit, but comes up just short of seeming over-oaked. Most New World Sauvignons are as good as they’ll ever be during their first year in the market, but this will undoubtedly be better a year from now, more effectively interwoven so that fruit complexities will emerge as the wood notes recede.
92 Michael Franz May 30, 2023
Back to Top
Texas:
Red:
C.L. Butaud, Texas High Plains (Texas) Tempranillo Farmhouse Vineyards 2020 ($54):  The Texas High Plains region in the north of the state is a good distance away from the better known Texas Hill Country, but it can produce beautiful wine when the weather is cooperative. This Tempranillo shows typical grape-y character with underlying red fruit and toasty spice notes. A fairly firm grip extends the finish where a contrasting dill note comes forward. Nicely done!
92 Rich Cook May 30, 2023
C.L. Butaud, Texas High Plains (Texas) “Cease & Desist” 2020 ($48):  Here is an unusual red blend that is unusually good. It's a blend not only of varieties, but of techniques, with some of the wine seeing new oak, some seeing once used oak and some seeing only stainless steel. It offers blueberry fruit, soft spice, mellow oak influence and freshness with some aged character coming together. Drink now! Contains 37% Cinsault, 25% Tempranillo, 25% Grenache and 13% Counoise.
90 Rich Cook May 30, 2023
White:
Fall Creek Vineyards, Escondido Valley (Texas) Chardonnay 2021 ($30):  This elegant Chardonnay was presented by winery co-owner Susan Auler at a Women for WineSense conference in Fredericksburg, Texas earlier this month. I was most impressed by its silky , smooth texture wrapping around ripe apple, peach, Meyer lemon fruit with yeasty notes energized by citrusy acidity. She explained that winemaker Sergio Cuadra allows the wine to remain in contact with the expired yeasts, a process called "sur lies" aging, rounding out the wine's texture. This is a very polished, elegant wine that will make any occasion a special one.
94 Rebecca Murphy May 30, 2023
Back to Top
|
 |
|
