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Adelaide Hills:
Red:
Murdoch Hill, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Red Blend 2021 ($19, Legend Imports):  This 2021 red blend from Murdoch Hill is a mix of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 14% Sangiovese, and 11% Shiraz from the Oakbank and Lenswood vineyards in the Adelaide Hills, respectively. It offers an alluring melding of red currant, red cherry, fresh raspberry, strawberry, plum, and black pepper. It perfectly toes the line between rustic and polished and is underlain with fine-grained tannins and a zip of refreshing acidity.
93 Miranda Franco Sep 19, 2023
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Margaret River:
White:
Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2021 ($18, Moet Hennessey USA):  This wine's aromas are led by vibrant lemon followed by lifted, mint aromas. There is a hint of CO2 prickle when one first sips the wine. Its flavors are composed of Meyer lemon, herbal, snap pea, and sapid green mint. Medium-bodied with a bit more acidity than the norm for the breed, the alcohol is well balanced. This offers a richer textural expression and better balance than the straight Sauvignon Blanc from the same producer. The blend is 88% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Semillon, and the stated alcohol is 13.5%.
90 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
White:
Weingut Bründlmayer, Kamptal (Niederösterriech, Austria) Grüner Veltliner “L & T” 2022 ($21, Skurnik Wines):  The river Kamp flows south into the Danube at the heart of Austria’s best vineyard area for Grüner Veltliner wines. Weingut Bründlmayer is a legendary producer of Grüner Veltliners from the Kamptal. Bründlmayer’s L & T Grüner is juicy, fresh and bursting with aromas of green apple, lemon and lime fruits enhanced by the distinctive herb and spice elements of the grape. L & T stands for Leicht und Trocken (Light & Dry) and the wine is definitely that. The fresh green bean and white pepper tones add a distinctive appeal and complexity to the juicy fruit. The flavors are clean and bright, with pure fruit expression and a lively style. It all makes for a versatile and pleasing white wine. Grüner Veltliner pairs especially well with vegetable recipes. Its inherent green nuances make it a versatile companion for seafood dishes with a fresh green herb component as well.
91 Wayne Belding Sep 19, 2023
Red:
Seña, Valle de Aconcagua (Chile) 2020 ($150, Shaw-Ross):  When the late Robert Mondavi was in his ascendancy near the end of the last century, he partnered with major producers on other continents in what were to become iconic red wines. Although the Napa Valley pioneer and his family later had to sell their business, the great wines live on, a tribute to Mondavi’s world vision. Here the partner was the Chadwick family. The wine falls into the category of one of seamless textures and tastes, a sort of universality among great Bordeaux blends, rather than exhibiting a distinctive profile that would let you pick it out of a lineup. In this case it is one of black raspberry flavors with a hint of chocolate, a little stony minerality, firm structure and chewy tannins. It is delicious now – don’t worry about drinking it too earlier – but obviously you can enjoy it anytime over the next two decades.
95 Roger Morris Sep 19, 2023
White:
Domaine de l'Idylle (Famille Tiollier), Roussette de Savoie (France) Altesse “Anne de Lusignan” 2022 ($30, Dionysos Imports):  Savoie's native grape, Altesse also known as Roussette, is known as a high quality grape which produces full-bodied, dry wines marked by floral and nutty aromas. This example offers its floral tones in aromatic notes of yellow apple and Bartlett pear, with an undercurrent of custardy, tropical banana and toasted pie crust. Fully dry, it offers a mouth-filling, rich texture balanced by moderate acidity. This should be delicious with shellfish, mushrooms or dishes with creamy sauces.
91 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
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Bordeaux:
White:
Château La Grande Métairie, Entre-Deux-Mers (Bordeaux, France) 2021 ($11, Vintage Imports, Inc.):  The Buffeteau family have been making wines in the Entre-Deux-Mers for many generations. Jean-Paul and Huguette Buffeteau created Château La Grande Métairie in 1964. Their 2021 is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. Sauvignon Gris is a color mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, so its skin color is neither red, nor white, but pink. The Sauvignons offer grapefruit and green apple fruit notes, and Muscadelle provides freshness and floral aromas. It is bright and fresh with crisp acidity and priced to be your house wine.
92 Rebecca Murphy Sep 19, 2023
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Loire Valley:
White:
Domaine de la Quilla, Muscadet Sevre & Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($15):  This fresh, lively and creamy, smooth white wine with citrus fruit and crisp acidity from the Loire Valley is the perfect wine to serve as an aperitif or with fresh seafood at the table. At this price you can serve it for a party. The smooth texture is the result of Sur Lie, a process of allowing the newly fermented wine to spend 7 to 10 months of maturing on the fine lees, the expired yeast cells. Melon de Bourgogne is the primary grape variety in Muscadet wine. According to Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, et al., the grape, as the name suggests, was cultivated in Burgundy as early as the thirteenth century. It made it to the Loire Valley under the name of Plant de Bourgogne where it then became known as Muscadet. The Muscadet Sevre & Maine appellation is named for two tributaries of the Loire River.
94 Rebecca Murphy Sep 19, 2023
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Rhône:
Rosé:
Guillaume Gonnet, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) "La Nymphe" Rosé 2022 ($19, Misa Imports):  Tavel was my introduction to Rosé many years ago and this wine from Guillaume Gonnet reminds me of why I fell in love with it and why it should be on my dinner table more often. It comes from the Rhone Valley, made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault, the classic grape varieties of the region. A brilliant dark, rose-red color, it boasts intense flavors of black cherry, strawberry and red plum flavors with savory, mineral highlights wrapped in a linear structure. This is a wine meant for the table. The bird on all their wine labels is a robin, a regular visitor to their organically farmed vineyards.
95 Rebecca Murphy Sep 19, 2023
Red:
Dalamara, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) Xinomavro 2018 ($40, Dionysos Imports):  Kostis Dalamára is a 6th-generation winemaker from Naoussa, Greece, where his family has been producing wine since 1840. Xinomavro is Naoussa’s noble grape. Xinomavro has been called the Nebbiolo of Greece (on account of its abundant acidity and tannin), and this 2018 Xinomavro matches its Italian counterpart with tantalizing aromas and beautifully balanced layers of fresh cherries, tomato leaf, sage, and plum. With bright acidity and rounded tannins, this is drinking well today, but if you have the patience to hold it for a few more years, it will pay dividends.
91 Miranda Franco Sep 19, 2023
White:
Troupis Winery, Mantinia (Peloponnese, Greece) Assyrtiko “Pitys Ritinitis” NV ($24, DNS):  This wine notes its winemaking techniques right on the front label, stating, "Wild Ferment - Unfiltered." One can notice a bit of pale tan colored sediment in the bottle prior to pouring. Historically, pine resin was added to white wines in ancient Greece both as a natural anti-oxidant, and also, more passively as a byproduct of clay amphora being coated with the resin to minimize evaporative loss through the porous clay. If the sediment is incorporated in the poured glass (either intentionally, by inverting the bottle and twirling it around prior to opening, or simply by getting one of the later glasses) the wine shows a slightly cloudy, pale amber color. The aromas bloom from the glass with floral and spicy ginger; resinous pine; damp, chalky stone; and creamy notes.
92 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
Tuscany:
Red:
Ornellaia, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia” 2020 ($82, Vintus Wines):  When the late Robert Mondavi was in his ascendancy near the end of the last century, he partnered with major producers on other continents in what were to become iconic red wines. Although the Napa Valley pioneer and his family later had to sell their business, the great wines live on, a tribute to Mondavi’s world vision. Here the partner was Frescobaldi. Le Serre is Ornellaia’s second wine, but, as with second wines of many great properties, other producers would have loved to have it as their first. A Bordeaux blend, the wine has very rich fruitiness and flavors – dark cherry, blackberry, a little chocolate – encased in a cocoon of nutty oak and integrated tannins. It is one of those harmonious wines that will get mellower, rather than leaner, with age.
92 Roger Morris Sep 19, 2023
White:
De Wetshof, Robertson (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay “Bateleur” 2017 ($66, Broadbent Selections):  This wine is made from fruit grown in one of South Africa's oldest Chardonnay vineyards, planted in 1987. The site offers a combination of gravel, limestone and clay soils and measures just 3.5 hectares, or about 8.5 acres. In speaking with Johan de Wet I learned that the clones planted here were brought to South Africa from the Clos de Mouches vineyard in Beaune, Burgundy, France. The grapes were destemmed, pressed, and the resulting juice settled overnight prior to fermentation in 100% new, blond-toasted barrels. Following racking of coarse lees, the wine spent additional time in barrel with weekly battonage. After a few months of less contact the wine was racked again and saw a further 12 months aging in barrel. This wine shows a vibrant pale yellow color with a slightly green rim in the glass. Aromas are composed of crisp Bosc pear, toasty oak, salt-air, clean button mushroom earthiness and a lactic note. The wine is both powerful and elegant in its balance, never edging into the oak dominated nutty aromas or an overwrought oily texture.
94 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
De Wetshof, Robertson (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay “Lesca” 2020 ($27, Broadbent Selections):  This wine is made from fruit grown on vines aged between 15 and 24 years old. It is the first of the De Wetshof wines to be barrel fermented. It is aged in a combination of one, two and three year old barrels. This wine offers bright, floral and deeper, toasted hazelnut tones to frame and elevate the crisp orchard fruit aromas. This wine is a turn to the richer end of the Chardonnay spectrum, compared to the younger, unoaked wines from this estate. The aromas and flavors here seem to echo the best parts of white Burgundy, though the weight is a bit lighter.
92 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
De Wetshof, Robertson (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay “Limestone Hill” 2022 ($19, Broadbent Selections):  The De Wetshof estate was established in 1964 as the first winery in the appellation of Robertson. Currently run by 2nd and 3rd generation family members, this winery's focus is Chardonnay from a range of terroirs. Interestingly, the limestone underlying their plantings derives not from marine organisms, but rather, from ancient, calcified termite mounds. Fruit used to produce the Limestone Hill 2022 was grown mostly on clay soils, derived from chemical weathering of limestone. The wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks, aging for 4 months on lees post-fermentation. It bursts from the glass with compelling aromas of herbal green tea and ground fresh sesame seed. There is just a hint of CO2 prickle upon taking an initial sip of the wine, lending a fresh feel to the flavors of citrus, crisp green apple, and green herbs followed with a chalky undertone. This is an exceptional value, especially for those who prefer an unoaked style of Chardonnay. I also believe this wine would generally out-perform similarly priced Chardonnay from nearly anywhere else in the world at the table.
91 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
De Wetshof, Robertson (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay "Bon Vallon” 2022 ($22, Broadbent Selections):  This 100% Chardonnay wine, from the historic De Wetshof estate, is sourced from three vineyard blocks with a higher proportion of limestone in the soil, as compared to the Limestone Hill bottling. Fermented and aged in stainless steel as well, this wine spent 10 months aging on lees prior to bottling. This wine offers perhaps a more typical aromatic expression of Chardonnay combining aromas of zesty lemon peel, lifted white floral, marine (seaweed and ozone), and nutty scents. Elegantly balanced and very long in the finish, this is perfectly suited to convert consumers of white Burgundy to consider drinking wines from the new world.
91 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
Mallorca:
Red:
4 Kilos, Mallorca (Balearic Islands, Spain) Callet 2020 ($60, T. Edward Wines):  A “kilo” is old Spanish slang for one million Pesetas, Spain’s former currency. 4 Kilos founders Francesc Grimalt and Sergio Cabellero’s investment of 4 million Pesetas birthed this renowned winery. Their 2020 Callet, a grape grown exclusively in Mallorca, is balanced and delicate at 12 percent alcohol. It is highly aromatic, with rose petals, spices, and orange peel notes. The palate has a beautiful interplay of vivid red fruit and Mediterranean herbs with a smooth, velvety mouthfeel. The tannins are long and fine; acidity is buoyant and carries through a persistent and fresh finish. This is reminiscent of a supple young red Burgundy.
95 Miranda Franco Sep 19, 2023
California:
Red:
Macauley Vineyard, Fort Ross - Seaview (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2021 ($69):  This wine starts in the glass with a deep, opaque mulberry color. It offers fairly complex aromas recalling red and black cherry and tart plum, followed by sweeter notes of oak and baking spice. The wine is well balanced in the mouth with deeper flavors of graphite and cedar in the finish. The finely textured tannins are sufficient to counter the sweetness of the new oak, my only concern is the slightly hot finish.
91 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
Macauley Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($90):  This Cabernet immediately impresses with its inky, opaque purple/black color; you know you are in for a taste of something concentrated. The nose is somewhat closed as the wine is just newly released, but with aeration it opens up to offer aromas of roasting coffee, cocoa, vanilla, plum compote and macerated/cooked blackberry. The flavors echo the nose and expand into an almost confectionary, graham cracker crust note in the finish. The wine has an incredibly silky texture, given its weight and power and ends with a very long finish.
95 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($68):  Grgich Hill Estate’s 2019 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon has a wonderfully old-school vibe to it. Savory aromas leap from the glass, with currant leaf, tomato leaf, and violets showing prominently, while more subtle notes of blackberry and black cherry play second fiddle. In the mouth, the wine is lively and energetic. Bright red fruit flavors fade to a satisfyingly long orange peel and baker’s chocolate finish. A bit of Merlot (11%) and a touch of Cabernet Franc (5%), keep the wine approachable in its youth. Firm but well-integrated tannins and elevated acidity come together to make this an appealing and fairly priced Cabernet.
92 John McDermott Sep 19, 2023
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel "Miljenko's Old Vine" 2019 ($125):  This Zinfandel is a breath of fresh air. Unlike the Zins of a decade ago, this one is not dark or inky on the pour but an elegant medium ruby. On the nose, typical aromas of strawberry jam and sweet cherry come through, but even on the nose, the heightened acidity of the wine is detectable. These jammy notes carry through on the palate, where they are met with a kiss of vanilla, fine-grained tannins, and a moderate 14.5% alcohol. As the aromas alluded to, the acidity is indeed lifted and fresh. This wine showcases well what Zinfandel can do when approached with finesse.
92 John McDermott Sep 19, 2023
One Stone Cellars, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($20):  One Stone Cellars is a fairly new special label from the folks at Ancient Peaks. A percentage of sales supports “Dream Big Darling” — a non-profit organization that works to engage, inspire and mentor the next generation of women leaders in the wine and spirits industry. It is a worthy wine for a worthy cause — an easy to drink Cabernet that kicks things up a notch from the cocktail style, with peppery Paso character speaking clearly. I appreciate winemaker Mike Sinor’s ability to deliver high level quality in this tier. From burgers to sirloin, it’s a well marbled red meat partner with a pleasing price tag. Contains 11% Malbec, 5% Merlot and 5% Syrah.
90 Rich Cook Sep 19, 2023
Meyye Wines, Petaluma Gap (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Omay” 2019 ($75):  Meyye is a new project for Rob Campbell, former winemaker at Story Winery in Amador County. As a member of a First Nations group called the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria, a combination of Coastal Miwok and Southern Pomo peoples, he wanted to have a winery that honored his heritage. Among the first releases is this Pinot Noir, made in a plush style that leans into ripe black cherry fruit, with a little stem character adding a dash of pepper to the fall spice and damp earth notes. It is plush on entry but retains good brightness through the finish. It is well integrated already and will deepen with a few years of cellar time. Here’s to celebrating one’s heritage!
93 Rich Cook Sep 19, 2023
We Know Jack, Rockpile - Sonoma County (California) Zinfandel Jack Florence Sr. Vineyard “Rockpile Riff Raff” 2021 ($78):  The name says it all here — if you want a piece of the action from this famed site, you need to know the owner, and I imagine you would also need to pony up a significant amount of financing per ton. Justice is done to provenance here in a refined style with a mouth coating texture that carries rich brambly fruit and leaves lingering flavors in satisfying fashion. A well tempered approach to oak aging keeps the focus on the fruit character while adding complementary spice and vanilla notes. Riff-raff moniker notwithstanding, think of this as a Cabernet lover’s Zin that retains its soul. Contains 9% Petite Sirah.
93 Rich Cook Sep 19, 2023
Anthill Farms, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Campbell Ranch Vineyard 2021 ($37):  Campbell Ranch Vineyard, located less than five miles from the Pacific, sits at the boundary of the marine layer. The Pacific keeps the two-decade old vines relatively cool throughout the sunny growing season, retaining acidity as the flavor ripen. This ripening enables the fruit to produce darker fruit notes, including black cherry and violet, that compliment the Pinot Noir’s traditional cranberry and pomegranate profile. The wine also has a unique crushed rock minerality that I find gives the wine complexity and elegance.
95 Vince Simmon Sep 19, 2023
Anthill Farms, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Harmony Lane Vineyard 2021 ($68):  Anthill Farms Harmony Lane Pinot Noir is sourced from a small 3-acre plot on Occidental Ridge. The vineyard is located just above the marine layer and Anthill Farms artfully describes the fog wrapping around the vineyard “like a shoreline.” The wine shows wild strawberry and cranberry notes but, once the wine opens up properly, a gorgeous black currant and black cherry comes through on the finish. The rich tannic structure is appreciated against Pinot Noir’s natural acidity. The tightness of the wine and need for aeration, along with the wine’s elegance and structure, suggests this vintage is ideal for cellar aging. While the winery has sold out, bottles are still available on the market. Once you find some, save it until 2036.
95 Vince Simmon Sep 19, 2023
Anthill Farms, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Hawk Hill Vineyard 2021 ($68):  Anthill Farms focuses on high quality, vineyard-specific Pinot Noirs. Their Sonoma Coast wines have been on my radar for several years for their subtle elegance and balance. Hawk Hill Vineyard, located in Green Valley, produces wines tart dark and red fruit, underbrush, and shows a unique graphite minerality on the body of the wine. The vines are over twenty years old and planted on steep slopes only a few miles from the Pacific Ocean. Anthill Farms includes 60% stem inclusion which helps balance the wine’s tannins against Pinot Noir’s natural acidity. Across Anthill Farms’ single vineyard lineup, I found the Hawk Hill to be the most classic to the Sonoma Coast style due to the prominence of fruit within the wine. While the winery has sold out, bottles are still available on the market.
94 Vince Simmon Sep 19, 2023
New Clairvaux Vineyard, Tehama County (California) Vina Ranch Red Table Wine, Lot 16 NV ($28):  From the Abbey whose Viognier I recently reviewed, this red is even more of a pleasant surprise. This is labeled a “Trappist made Product” as the monks provide the vineyard work. Each year the brothers, the monks of the Abbey, choose the final combination for their red. And for Lot 16, it was Syrah (30%), Petite Sirah (25%), Graciano (15%) Tannat (10%) and Viognier (5%), this red was aged in barrel for 10 months, 10% new oak. Deep garnet, it offers plenty of ripe black cherry, a hint of tobacco and light oak aroma. It is rich and nicely focused with ripe black fruit flavors rounded by a hint of oak spice. The tannins are moderate and well-integrated suggesting this wine will benefit from 4 to 5 years of cellaring. A solid effort. 1058 cases produced.
92 Norm Roby Sep 19, 2023
Grgich Hills Estate, Yountville - Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vine 2019 ($225):  Grgich Hills Estate’s 2019 Yountville Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon is dedicated to founder Milijenko “Mike” Grgich’s 100th Birthday. Mike first stepped into the international wine scene as the winemaker behind the famed 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, which came in first place among the white wines at the Judgment of Paris. He founded Grgich Hills in 1977. This Cabernet is powerful yet classically restrained — finessed extraction pairs with moderate alcohol (14.5%) and 20 months maturation in 50% new French oak. Aromas of ripe red cherry come together with blackberry and blueberry, floating above a soft vein of mint leaf and baking spice. Chalky, structured tannins give the wine heft that is balanced nicely by a dark-fruited palate and bright acidity.
93 John McDermott Sep 19, 2023
White:
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay "Paris Tasting Commemorative" 2019 ($100):  Grgich Hills has been making a Paris Tasting Commemorative Chardonnay since 2013, selecting their finest grapes, primarily from old vines. The wine pours a beautiful medium gold in the glass. It has a pleasant complexity to it, showing notes of crème brûlée, lemon bar, pineapple, white peach, and fresh vanilla bean. Though the wine has a textural richness to it, the acidity is still zippy and refreshing.
92 John McDermott Sep 19, 2023
Macauley Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2021 ($49):  This Chardonnay is made from fruit grown on the historic Bacigalupi Vineyard in Russian River Valley. The vineyard was first planted to Chardonnay in 1964, quite an early start for quality wine grapes in California. This wine offers well-integrated and subtle toasty oak alongside a spectrum of golden and orange fruit notes. Upon tasting the wine, the flavors expand to mandarin and pineapple combined with a luscious, rich texture that finishes clean and dry. The offers balanced acidity and full-bodied texture that can stand up to the richest of dishes.
93 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023
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Oregon:
Red:
Cristom Vineyards, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Eileen Vineyard 2021 ($80):  Cristom Vineyards is one of the best producers of Oregon Pinot Noir. Established in 1992, they produce several named-vineyard bottlings from the various sites on their estate in the Eola-Amity Hills. The Eileen Vineyard is their highest elevation site and yields wines of exceptional finesse. High up on the hill above the winery, the vineyard is influenced by the cooling winds of the Van Duzer corridor. The 2021 vintage offers an Eileen Pinot Noir with a delicious balance. It shows the ripeness of the harvest with pure black cherry, raspberry, and plum fruits backed by hints of lilac, vanilla and spice. The flavors are rich and ripe with layers of red cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruits enhanced by a creamy texture, a hint of anise and lively spices at the finish. Enjoyable now, it can age well for another 10 to 12 years.
95 Wayne Belding Sep 19, 2023
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Washington:
White:
Novelty Hill, Columbia Valley (Washington) Roussanne Stillwater Creek Vineyard 2020 ($25):  Novelty Hill wines are made by veteran winemaker, Mike Januik, in partnership with the owners of Stillwater Creek. Both Novelty Hill wines and those from the Januik Winery are showcased at a new facility in Woodinville. Roussanne has not yet attracted as much interest as Viognier and often is blended with Marsanne and Viognier. This Novelty Hill version allows the fruit to shine through as the wine was fermented and then aged for 6 months in neutral French oak. On the nose it offers a combination of floral and pear aromas with an unusual herb tea component. Lively and smooth on the palate, it takes on some citrus flavors along with the pear and herb notes. It finishes with a rush of acidity but overall it is a pleasing, richly textured wine in a drink now style.
90 Norm Roby Sep 19, 2023
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