I just returned from a trip to Oaxaca, Mexico, one of the world's great food capitals. I was drawn in by the enduring allure of the region's nuanced cuisine. The city is brimming with an abundance of life-changing moles, tlayudas,
tamales, memelas and Mezcal. Oaxaca has a wealth of natural treasures too. But let's go back to the food. The cooking tradition is ancient, vibrant, varied, and unlike anything else in the world. Oaxacan cooking employs laborious and intricate techniques and flavor profiles. Oaxaca has also inspired drink lovers from all corners of the earth to travel to Oaxaca in search of their favorite and the most artisanal Mezcal. Mezcal pairings most frequently accompany the Oaxacan gastronomic experience. While I love the depth of Mezcal's flavor, I couldn't help but wonder what one does if one wants to move away from Mezcal and Tequila with their Mexican feast and enjoy a glass of wine.
The same characteristics that make Mexican food so exciting – the boldness, complexity, intense spices, and flavors – are also what makes the process of pairing Mexican food with wine daunting. However, it is not as complicated as it seems. Margaritas, palomas, and lagers are paired with Mexican food because the flavors work well together. But there are also many ways to echo the flavors of Mexican food with a good glass of wine.
For some guidance, I chatted with the beverage team at Criollo in Oaxaca, helmed by one of the world's great chefs, Enrique Olvera of Pujol fame. They helped advise on the best wines to pair with bright, flavorful Mexican dishes, often packed with heat. The team noted when pairing wine with Mexican food, don’t be afraid to drink red wine with spicy, smoky dishes. Something like Pinot Noir is excellent – you have the fruit, but you also have earthiness. Pinot Noir is also great because you can have intensity without having high alcohol and high tannins. When it comes to white wine, look to aromatic varieties. Rieslings, with their bright acidity, provide great pairings with many Mexican dishes.
Manuel Rios, Founder of Rios Wine Co., in Napa Valley and member of the Mexican-American Vintners Association, noted that we shouldn't be constrained by “what’s right or wrong pairing suggestions,” but that people should explore freely instead, enjoying the discovery process of finding what they like paired together. His favorites are the 2021 Rios Sauvignon Blanc with ceviche or fish tacos, and he loves the 2017 Rios Cabernet with Enchilada Picadillo or his other favorite, Bistek Ranchero.
With the above tips in mind, here are a few Mexican food and wine pairings to explore:
Corn Tortillas and Champagne
Mildly nutty with a bit of natural sweetness and deliciously rich in corn flavor, tortillas are a tasty pairing with bready, yeasty, and toasty Champagne.
Carnitas and Pinot Noir
Carnitas translates to “little meats.” Making the dish involves braising pork in lard or oil and spices for several hours until it’s tender enough to shred apart. The result is tender, smoky meat in tacos, enchiladas, or on its own. Pinot Noir has just the right level of tannins to deal with spicy meat and is also acidic enough to stand up to any toppings that traditionally go with the dish.
Ceviche and Sauvignon Blanc
As noted by Manuel Rios, high-acid Sauvignon Blanc pairs perfectly with the fresh, citrusy flavors of ceviche. Sauvignon Blanc also holds herbal notes that complement any fresh herbs sprinkled on ceviche or used in the marinade. Notes of stone, mineral, and slate also lie within Sauvignon Blanc, complementing the saline notes found in fresh seafood.
Mole Poblano and Zinfandel
Mole poblano, a sauce consisting of peppers, tomatoes, dried fruits, seeds, and chocolate, pairs beautifully with Zinfandel's rich, dark fruits, cocoa, and smoke flavors. Its soft tannins are another plus, avoiding any hints of bitterness on the palate.
Al Pastor and Rosé
Al pastor is pork or goat that’s seasoned with chiles and slow-roasted on a spit grill with onions and pineapple. You’ll typically find this type of meat in tacos (Tacos Al Pastor), a Lebanese-influenced taco topped with roasted pineapple, red onion, and fresh cilantro. Finding a wine to go with the pineapple in al pastor can be challenging, but a Rosé will complement the pork, spices, and fruit of Tacos Al Pastor and avoid overpowering it. A sparkling Brut Rosé would also make a lovely pairing.
Enchiladas and Riesling
Enchiladas consist of tortillas stuffed with any number of ingredients and topped with a delicious red sauce. A Riesling is a great option here. The acidity of the wine helps to cut through the fattiness of the cheese, bringing harmony to the dish.
Tamales and Cabernet Franc
Tamales are corn dough packed with cheese, meat, beans, vegetables, or some combination of these ingredients. The stuffed dough gets wrapped in corn husks and steamed or boiled. The sweet, earthy flavors of tamales pair exceptionally well with Cabernet Franc, as the body of the wine is light enough to complement the braised or slow-cooked meat filling, and its earthiness will flow well with the dense masa exterior. You could also pair tamales with Tempranillo.
Chiles Rellenos and Syrah
Chiles Rellenos are green chiles stuffed with cheese, breaded in masa, and deep-fried. They’re typically topped with chile sauce. Syrah is the perfect wine for this dish as the meaty, almost bacon-like flavors in the wine pair perfectly with the sweetness and spiciness of the dish.
