About UsWine ReviewsArchivesAdvertiseContact Us


Posted by Gerald D. Boyd on July 8, 2015 at 11:22 AM

The Mad Crush

Books about wine satisfy many demands.  Technical texts are geared toward winemakers and grape growers.  Picture books are designed for wine tourists.  And there are novels that feature a wine-collecting detective.  Occasionally, the odd book is released that tries to be all things to all wine lovers.  Most of these books blend the technical with the conversational, often making recommendations that are long out of date or out of stock by the time the book hits the stores.  But, every once in a while, along comes a small book that strikes a balance between wine-geek facts and a personal account of the rigors and pleasures of winemaking.

Such a book is “The Mad Crush,” an easy-reading paperback by Sean Christopher Weir, who spent a couple of harvests working as a cellar hand at Saucelito Canyon Vineyard in Santa Barbara County.  The yarn that Weir spins focuses on the 1995 vintage under the tutelage of owner Bill Greenough and a cast of cellar workers that includes various wanderers and hippies--but is comprised entirely of people who are serious about wine.  Anyone who has ever toiled in a vineyard, worked as a cellar rat, or wanted to, will relate to Weir’s experiences.

Rancho Saucelito traces its history back to 1880 when an Englishman named Henry Ditmas drove a horse-drawn carriage along a rutted, bone-rattling road, eventually arriving in a remote canyon, southeast of San Luis Obispo, where he set down roots with an orchard and some Zinfandel vines.  Over subsequent decades, time and lack of attention worked their weathering ways on the vineyard.  When Greenough arrived in 1974, those same gnarly vines were barely alive.  Undaunted, Greenough dug deeper and discovered small clusters clinging to the roots and decided to restore the vineyard, tending one old vine at a time.

Weir had previously worked with Greenough so, when he received a call from his old boss in August of 1995, asking him to return, he packed up and drove into the canyon.  With hardly a slap on the back or a greeting from Greenough, Weir was put to work cleaning the cellar and preparing for the harvest.  The one thing he remembered from his previous time with Greenough, was:  “There’s the right way, the wrong way and then there’s the Saucelito way.”

Weir tells his story in 12 short chapters and 150 pages, with archival photographs.  In Chapter Two he fondly describes his return to Saucelito Canyon as a homecoming that included a mini course in how to make red wine.  This brief tutorial is a good refresher for the wine connoisseurs and the neophytes alike. 

Assisting Weir in the cellar were Wild Bill Neely and Bobby Hyde.  Before coming to Saucelito Canyon, the two teamed up to form a winemaking outfit they named the Pagan Brothers, a not-so-subtle counterpoint to a more pious Northern California winery known as the Christian Brothers.  Neely’s exploits are humorously recounted by Weir in the chapter titled “Rebellion.”  Greenough, Weir and the crew got things sorted out, and they made some serious Zinfandel from the 1995 vintage.  Eventually, though, Weir realized that it was time for him to pack up his truck and move on.

Despite all the semi-hippie craziness that went on back in Sauceltio Canyon, word leaked out about the quality of the wines, attracting such celebrities as Joan Baez and local advocates like Michael Benedict--who was famous in Santa Barbara and later California for the award-winning wines of Sanford & Benedict.

Weir writes that Greenough hung in there over the years at Saucelito Canyon, slowly building a reputation as one of the premier Zinfandel producers in California, before stepping back and turning the winemaking over to his son Tom.  Although the winery makes small amounts of Tempranillo, a blend of Tempranillo and Zinfandel called “Muchado,” Sauvignon Blanc, a Grenache Blanc, and a southern Rhône blend called Côte de Blanc, it is Saucelito Zinfandels that Zin lovers seek out. 

There is so much more in this little book.  I’m a slow reader, but I finished “The Mad Crush” in one sitting.  Weir’s personal account is fun and informative--a combination that’s hard to find in wine books.

The Mad Crush:  Sean Christopher Weir, Mooncatcher Media, softcover, 151 pages, $11.95, ISBN: 978-0-9851579-4-4

*       *       *

WRO Columnist Emeritus Gerald Boyd contributes book reviews in this space on an occasional basis from his so-called “retirement”

MAN Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2014 ($9)
The MAN Chenin Blanc affirms that South Africa is a fantastic source of affordable and delicious Chenin.  Sourced from dry-farmed bush vines in the Agter-Paarl area, the 2014 “Free-Run Steen” bottling continues a string of successes.  Fresh and fragrant, the bouquet is replete with scents of honeysuckle, pear, green apple and lemon.  The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with pear, lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruits underlain by delectable floral and spice tones.  Year in and year out, the MAN Chenin Blanc ranks among the best white wine values in the world.  It’s a perfect summer sipper.
90 Wayne Belding

Dr. Michael
This Issue's Reviews
Another Champagne Widow Makes Her Mark at Duval-Leroy
Ed McCarthy

Champagne, like most businesses, including wine, has been traditionally run by the male of the species. And yet there always are exceptions. Carol Duval-Leroy is the CEO and owner of Champagne Duval-Leroy, a prestigious Champagne House located in the village of Vertus on the Côte des Blancs--the heart of the best Chardonnay vineyards in Champagne, if not the world. Champagne Duval-Leroy has been a family-owned business since 1859. Additionally, the Chef de Caves (head winemaker) is Sandrine Logette-Jardin, a position she has held since 2006, when Sandrine--then only 37--became the first female chef de caves in the Champagne region. And so, unusually, Champagne Duval-Leroy is really run by women.
Dona Paula Rising Star in Argentine Wine
Robert Whitley

First there was Nicolas Catena, who took the family winery in Mendoza to new heights when he brought in California winemaker Paul Hobbs to rock the Argentine wine world. Then there was Hobbs himself, who left Catena and opened his own Mendoza winery, Cobos, to much critical acclaim. The brilliant winemaker from Bordeaux, Michel Rolland, also established a base (in Rolland's case, many bases) in Argentina. Then along came Italian winemaker Roberto Cipresso, renowned for his superb Brunellos, to soar at the remarkable Achaval Ferrer winery.
Wine With
WINE WITH…Summer Veggie Lasagna

There is nothing particularly Italian about this lasagna except for the broad ruffled pasta noodles themselves. Freeform, intuitive, and based on fresh, seasonal produce, it's at home in any culinary tradition, and is a great dish for casual summer dining. Serve it with a simple green salad and good bread or rolls for sopping up the juices. Use a variety of fresh chopped vegetables such as corn, zucchini and other summer squash, eggplant, carrots, mushrooms, and peppers (we always include a spicy pepper of some sort). If you've never used oven-ready lasagna noodles you might be somewhat mystified by how they work but, like us, once you try them you'll probably be hooked. For a lighter dish we like to arrange the noodles side by side without touching each other or the edges of the dish (they expand and fill in the gaps as they cook).
On My Table
A Pinot Blanc That Over-Delivers
Mary Ewing-Mulligan

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Oregon's Williamette Valley as a wine region, and that occasion has me (and many other wine writers, I'm sure) tasting numerous Oregon wines, particularly those from the 'old guard' of early producers. Other columnists on this site have addressed Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, the region's flagship wine, made from the grape that occupies 64 percent of the region's vineyards. Pinot Blanc, in comparison, is a statistical afterthought, claiming only 1 percent of vineyards and lagging well behind Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling among white varieties. But Ponzi Vineyards has been growing Pinot Blanc for 25 years now.