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Posted by Marguerite Thomas on January 25, 2012 at 11:26 AM
For me, sparkling wine is not just for celebration, and not just for warm weather pleasure. I was recently reminded of how much I enjoy bubbles, and how versatile they really can be, when I opened up a bottle of sparkling pink Moscato from Italy’s Puglia province (M/Mochetto, Rosato, $17, imported by Quintessential). I sipped a glassful of the lightly effervescent fizz as I puttered around the kitchen making salmon patties for dinner, and then I decided what-the-heck--I’m enjoying this so much I might as well put that bottle of Chardonnay back in the fridge and pour the Moscato with supper instead.
The wine is distinctly sweet, with Moscato’s characteristic floral aromas, but its little slap of acidity at the end of each sip revitalizes the taste buds and keeps the wine from slipping into the doldrums. The fact that it is low in alcohol (5%) placed the wine in perfect balance with the relatively simple salmon cakes. In fact, this charming little pink wine was so delectable that it got me musing about the variety of sparkling wines that Italy produces.
A couple of regions make their spumante using the traditional sparkling wine method (a second fermentation in the bottle, riddling, disgorgement), but most rely on the slightly less expensive Charmat method, which tends to produce a wine with lower alcohol and delicate mousse. But regardless of how they are made, I can’t--off the top of my head--think of any other country that creates as many different styles of sparkling wine as Italy.
Many wine fanciers consider the sparkling wines from Franciacorta, in the Lombardy region, among the country’s most elegant. The best ones are stylish and sophisticated. They are made by the traditional method, and the grapes include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Bianco. Franciacorta wines are typically brut.
The province of Trento likewise produces spumante made by traditional method, from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Bianco. The region’s high altitude and cool northern climate contribute to the attractive crispness, balance and complexity found in the top Trento brands.
Prosecco is the name of both the grape and the type of wine from the Veneto; it is generally crisp, refreshing and relatively low in alcohol. Whether brut, slightly sweet or dessert-style, global sales have soared now that wine drinkers have discovered these appealing, and generally inexpensive, sparkling wines.
Lambrusco, which some people think of only as a sweet, sappy sipper, should not be sneered at. The best Lambrusco seccos are dry, frothy dark red wines that can charm and refresh both on their own and as an accompaniment to many rich, meat or cheese-based dishes (I recently relished one with a prosciutto and arugula pizza). They can range from softly sparkling (frizzante) to full sparkling (spumante). Native to Emilia, they are made from any number of different strains of the labrusca grape. They are best enjoyed in a red-wine glass rather than a flute.
From the Piedmont region comes Braccheto, a light bodied, dark pink frizzante, slightly sweet, delicately perfumed and reminiscent of strawberries (I like it so much I served it years ago at my own wedding). The grape is Brachetto, the DOCG Brachetto d’Aqui.
Moscato d’Asti is made from the Moscato Bianco grape, and tends to be on the sweet side, low in alcohol, delicately frothy and thoroughly enjoyable. It’s an informal wine that requires neither a flute nor a special occasion. Moscato d’Asti comes from the region of Asti located at the opposite end of the boot from the Puglian Moscato that originally set me off on this homage to Italy’s fizz.
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 Could this wine be any better balanced and integrated? If so, I don’t know how. It shows expressive aromas and very tasty flavors of plums and dark cherries, but the real ticket here is the wine’s texture: Broad and phenomenally smooth, with really remarkable integration of acidity, tannin and oak. It may actually seem a little too domesticated for those who love rough-and-ready wines, but this is a distinct minority by comparison to the vast majority of tasters who value soft texture. 92 Michael Franz
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Michael Franz
New Year's Eve has long been my favorite holiday of the year, and a big reason for that is that the turn of the year is a great marker for reflection and changes of course--a process that extends through the whole month of January for me. Now, I would not presume to tell you how you should change your own life course, though perhaps you'd be open to a handful of suggestions for reflection regarding your approach to wine.
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Robert Whitley
One of the more enjoyable aspects of a major wine competition, for me at least, is the discovery of affordable wines that were impressive in the challenging environment of a professional wine judging. Whether I am a judge, as I often am, or an official, as I was at the third annual Winemaker Challenge, where I am the director, I am keen to know which of the wines priced at $20 or less stood out. Although I occasionally splurge on an expensive bottle of wine, my everyday wines must fit within my budget.
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It's the season to throw another log on the fire and prepare something delicious and warming for dinner. On this particular occasion we didn't have all day to wait for a slow-cooked stew or braise, so we turned instead to baked stuffed squash, an equally comforting one-dish meal but one that requires less cooking time. There's something about stuffed vegetables-peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, squash-that seems to satisfy both belly and soul, and depending on the kind of meat and seasonings, they can be remarkably wine friendly as well.
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Mary Ewing-MulliganAs New Year's resolutions go, I believe a wine lover could do a lot worse than resolve to drink more Chianti in 2012. Chianti is one of the world's great red wines, but I get the feeling that these days it has been overshadowed by the sheer multiplicity of red wine choices from all over the world. When I refer to Chianti as a great wine, of course I don't mean all of the wine produced in the various zones of central Tuscany whose name begins with 'Chianti,' much of which is uninspiring. I am referring to the wines of good producers from the most favored zones. Chianti Classico is the largest of these and boasts the highest number of interesting producers. Chianti Rufina is perhaps the smallest--and it's where the value lies.
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Affordable Gold
A Tuscan Secret
