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Columns – W. Blake Gray

Rethinking Cognac
W. Blake Gray
Jul 23, 2023

I just spent three days in the Cognac region, immersed in the stuff, and not once did I get a snifter of it to drink straight. Not once did we have a glass of Cognac after a meal. The locals like Cognac as an aperitif. And they don't drink it straight: they like it with sparkling water on ice. Or, best of all, they like it in a cocktail created for Cognac, the Summit. That said, maybe it's not relevant how people in Cognac drink the local spirit, because from the beginning it has been meant for export. Only 3% of all Cognac is consumed in France. It's one of the most international spirits -- a staple of airport duty-free -- and yet it also seems to have a very limited audience.