Wine With . . . Parmesan-Crusted Fish Fillets

by Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas

Why does fish often taste better in restaurants than at home?  Sometimes it's simply a matter of preparation.  We have a good friend, a former professional chef, who recently introduced us to a technique that results in a restaurant-style fish dish that is a snap to prepare at home.  A take-off on an old favorite, it involves coating fish fillets with flour, parmesan cheese, and dried herbs instead of bread crumbs.  Both simple and elegant, it's sure to please.  The only problem is that this delicious dish presents a bit of a challenge when it comes to choosing the wine.    

According to our friend, you can use any firm-fleshed fish in this dish.  You don't want something really delicate like sole or flounder, as the fish might fall apart in the pan; and you don't want something too meaty like swordfish or tuna.  Halibut works well, as does red snapper and mahi-mahi.  We used Atlantic striped bass (called rockfish here in Baltimore), and the results proved delectable.  Look for the recipe below. 

What makes this dish so good is the combination of the delicately-flavored and fairly delicately-textured fish and the creamy, cheesy crust.  But that's also what makes finding an appropriate wine tricky.  Something light and refreshing easily can be overpowered, while something rich and substantial can seem overwhelming.  We tried twelve wines (nine whites, one dry rosé, and two reds) with it, and many that we liked on their own just didn't work with the dish.  An Italian Pinot Grigio, Australian Riesling, and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc all seemed somewhat empty, while a California Rousanne seemed fat.  And any wine with residual sweetness--the Riesling, for example, and a Kiwi Pinot Noir--became sappy when sipped with the dish.  The wines that did best, then, were completely or almost completely dry, and they all had a refreshing zing of acidity.  They highlighted the subtle taste of the fish, while at the same time accenting the appeal of the rich parmesan crust.       

Selection

Approx. Price

Comments

Faiveley, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2004

(Imported by Wilson Daniels)

  $24

A sensational partner, the ripe fruit flavors, crisp acidity, and trace of minerality in the wine were perfectly proportioned to match the texture and flavors of the fish. 

Flora Springs,

 Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay "Barrel Fermented" 2004

 $25

On its own, the sweet oak in this Chardonnay might not appeal to everyone, but when the wine and creaminess of the dish came together, the result was rich and satisfying.

Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (California) Blanc de Noirs "Méthode Champenoise" NV

 $20

This sparkler abounds with the bright, sunny taste of California fruit, but the bubbles and acidity cut through any perception of sweetness to make this the most refreshing of the wines we tried with the dish.

Pazo Pondal, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albariño 2004

(Imported by Bon Vivant, Inc.)

 $21

A charmer from the Galicia region in northwestern Spain, this soft and tender wine finishes with a winning lemony tang, making it a perfect partner for this seafood dish.

La Rioja Alta, Rioja (Spain) "Vinña Alberdi" Reserva 2000

(Imported by Europvin USA)

  $19

Unlike the other red we tried with the dish, this traditionally-styled, spicy Rioja did not end up tasting fishy or metallic.  The flavor that linked it so harmoniously with the dish was the parmesan in the coating.

Margie-Ann's Parmesan-Crusted Fish Fillets

For Six Servings:

2 pounds fish filets such as halibut, red snapper, striped bass, mahi-mahi

½ cup heavy cream

¾ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

¾ cup flour

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons dried basil*

5 tablespoons butter

Dip each fish filet in cream. Mix together cheese, flour, salt, pepper and basil.  Dredge fish in flour mixture, coating thoroughly.  Sauté in butter in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat until bottom side of fish is golden-brown (for best results, use two separate skillets).  Flip fish, cover skillet, and continue cooking until fish is cooked through.  Total cooking time is 3-4 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the fillets.

* Do not try to substitute fresh basil.  And 2 tablespoons is not a typo--it takes a lot of basil to achieve the full effect of this delicious recipe.