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Wine With. . . Lamb Burgers
by Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas
Lamb burgers are a terrific treat, one that we, frankly, had almost forgotten. But after preparing them a few nights ago, we predict they're going to show up frequently this summer on our dinner table. Both more complex and more delicate in flavor than hamburgers, when these burgers are paired with the right red wine the synergy between the two can be dazzling. That's what we discovered when we opened an assortment of red wines, ranging in price from $9 to $45, to try with them.
The addition of fresh mint and garlic gave our burgers a slight Middle-eastern flavor that created further gustatory interest in the pairing. For example, the herbaceous qualities inherent in some Chilean reds were tamed and made more appealing by the subtle presence of mint. And the noticeable spice that's intrinsic to some Zinfandels and Syrah-based wines was a distinct plus, perhaps because lamb is more versatile than beef when it comes to spice - think of Moroccan lamb Tagines. For the same reason, the spiciness imparted to wine by oak barrels also fits nicely with the dish. (When the presence of oak was too dominant, however, the wine rode roughshod over the lamb). Interestingly, the wines we thought best complemented the food weren't necessarily the most complex ones we tried. And the fact that two of the five wines in our final selection cost just $9 and $10 proves that simpler wines can be just fine with an informal meal like this one.
GRILLED LAMB BURGERS WITH AÏOLI
Lamb and garlic-infused aioli are natural companions. We cheated a little on the aioli, for instead of making the mayonnaise from scratch, we used store-bought and just whisked a couple of cloves of mashed garlic, plus a spoonful of lemon juice, into it. We also spiked the burgers with a hint of hot sauce - one of us used a hot Mexican Chipotle Chile/ Tomatillo salsa, the other a splash of Jamaican Pickapeppa. Tabasco would work too. (A flash of piquant sauce brings added complexity and depth of flavor to the dish, although because the hot stuff can be challenging to the wine, it's best to use a light hand).
2-2 1/2 pounds ground lamb
About ¾ cup finely minced fresh mint
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh rosemary
Salt and pepper to taste
6 English muffins split in halves
6 medium-thick slices of onion, preferably red
One-two tablespoons olive or other vegetable oil
One cup aioli, or 2-4 cloves garlic, mashed, and one tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice, plus one cup mayonnaise
Tabasco or other hot sauce to taste (optional)
While the grill fires up, mix the herbs and salt into the ground meat, blending just enough to incorporate the seasoning into the mix. Form the meat into 6 patties (handle it only enough for the patties to stick together). Brush both sides of the onion slices with oil. Grill the burgers over medium heat (uncovered) for about 5 minutes on each side (for medium-rare). Grill the onions at the same time, for about the same amount of time. Toast the English muffins lightly at the side of the grill. If you haven't already made aioli, while the meat is grilling whisk the garlic and lemon juice into the mayonnaise. To serve, spread half the toasted muffins with aioli. Scramble a little hot sauce around on it if desired. Top with the meat and add the other half muffin.
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