ITALY

Red:

Bolla, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC (Italy) 2011 ($45, Banfi Vintners): No winery in Italy has come farther faster than Bolla, once known mostly for the blandness of its wines. No more. Across the board Bolla has improved, and its 2011 Amarone is nothing less than sensational. It shows ripe cherry and raisin notes, with an intriguing earthiness and remarkable persistence in the finish. A Platinum award-winner at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition.
96 Robert Whitley Sep 27, 2016

Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Sarmassa 2012 ($65, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Sarmassa is a well-regarded cru located in the village of Barolo itself, an area where the wines are allegedly more delicate, relatively speaking (this is Barolo, after all) compared to those from Serralunga d’Alba or Montforte d’Alba.  Marchesi di Barolo’s fine Sarmassa has a bit of Montforte-like structure to accompany its floral aspect.  Almost chewy with firm, fine tannins, it remains incredibly elegant, capturing the best of both worlds.  Its charms appeared sitting it the glass for a couple of hours over dinner, surprising me at how enjoyable it was to drink now.  With a seemingly endless finish and balance, it will reward a decade or so of cellaring.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 25, 2017

CaMaiol, Benaco Bresciano Rosso IGP (Italy) 'Giome' 2016 ($14): If you’re looking for something different in a red wine for summer, Giome from CaMaiol could be the ticket.  This eclectic blend of indigenous grapes – groppello, marzemino, barbera and sangiovese – produced a 2016 Giome that is light-bodied but delicious, showing red fruits, hints of savory herbs, anise and a thread of minerality that becomes more pronounced as the wine opens up with a bit of aeration.  
90 Robert Whitley Jul 31, 2018

Banfi, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Italy) "Aska" 2013 ($22): Aska is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Now don't think of it as just a ready-to-drink version of some of the more famed and age-worthy wines of the region -- think of it as a serious bargain in a classic Bolgheri, where the heavy hitters can cost more than five times as much.  Deep blackberry, cassis, faint dried herbs, a little earthy funk and subtle spice notes are carried on vibrant acidity, with supple grip keeping it all together through a long, fully integrated finish.  At this price, with good domestic availability, you can expect it to appear soon on your favorite Italian restaurant wine list.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Feb 7, 2017

Zanatta, Cannonau di Sardegna (Italy) NV ($14, Angelini Selection): This Cannonau, the local Sardinian name for Grenache or Garnacha, is delightfully meaty and earthy more than fruity, though lovely sour cherry-like notes peek through in the finish. It’s really an ideal choice for the grilling season because the wine has intensity -- it’s even chewy -- without being heavy. And there’s uplifting freshness in the finish that keeps you coming back for more. This is a value-packed wine.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2013

Olianas, Cannonau di Sardegna DOC (Italy) 2016 ($20):  Fresh and fruity, showing a floral note as well, this wine is the Beaujolais of Sardinia.  Tannins are modest and soft, making it enjoyable when young and perfect for serving chilled on a warm summer day.  Red berries and violets come to mind.  Serve it with light appetizers, grilled chicken or light pasta dishes. 
87 Robert Whitley Dec 12, 2017

Melini, Chianti Classico (Italy) “Terrarossa” 2011 ($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Ruby red, with a subtly floral fragrance, this Chianti is dry and savory, which makes it very much the classic wine to accompany tomato-based pasta dishes and pizza.  Because of its typical palate-clarifying acidity it’s also good with simple yet substantial dishes such as roast chicken.
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 5, 2016

Banfi, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Fonte Alla Selva 2013 ($24): This bottling is enjoying a run of top notch quality, with the 2013 coming on strong and age-worthy.  It's spot-on Chianti Classico, with tart cherry fruit, sage, underbrush and stony minerality aromas and flavors, and a firm acid structure that asks for a good decant in the near term.  This will age nicely over the next five years, and it's a great value for the price.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Feb 7, 2017

Castello D'Albola, Chianti Classico DOCG (Italy) 2011 ($19, Zonin USA): Thank goodness for Chianti Classico!  A great bottle from this region is like no other wine on earth, and certain foods show their absolute best when paired with a fine example.  This wine qualifies as such, showing cherry, wildflowers, sage and dusty spice on the nose and in the mouth, and it's bone dry and crisply acidic, as it should be.  Fresh Tuscan foods and outdoor dining in the sun are practically required pairings.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jun 2, 2015

Gabbiano, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Italy) 2011 ($22, TWE Imports): Gabbiano ups their game with this always dependable wine, achieving classic character with black cherry, dried herbs and brown spice delivered through a brisk acid profile that requires food -- hearty pasta and meat sauce dishes will be elevated by this wine.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Jun 2, 2015

Banfi, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Italy) 2011 ($19, Banfi Vintners): It's always great to find a wine that is readily available at a great price that delivers this kind of quality.  One whiff puts you in the Tuscan hill country and invites you to stay with fresh dry cherry fruit, sage, fennel and faint dried herbs -- a wonderful accompaniment to classic central Italian  cooking.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jun 2, 2015

Caposaldo, Chianti DOCG (Italy) 2014 ($11, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Wow! A lovely Chianti with popping acidity allowing the cherry, blueberry, sage and leaf to really shine. A food friend for lots of situations, and great on its own.  Toss in the low price and wide availability and you've got a real find on your hands.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Mar 29, 2016

Russiz Superiore, Collio DOC (Italy) Cabernet Franc 2016 ($25, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): The reds that do best in the Collio, most renowned for its white wines, are the early ripening varieties such as Cabernet Franc.  Marco Falluga’s Cab Franc under his Russiz Superiore label is a good example of the potential for Cab Franc in the region.  This medium-bodied red shows aromas of cherry and blueberry along with an inviting note of white pepper that becomes more pronounced as the wine sits in the glass.  It will benefit from additional cellar time to soften the tannins and allow the underlying fruit to more fully emerge.   
88 Robert Whitley Oct 15, 2019

Tutto Mio, Emilia IGT (Italy) Vino Rosso Dolce NV ($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  There’s always a place for a sweet fizzy red that’s not too sweet or hot when light desserts are the order of the moment.  This fits the bill with a lively texture, dried cherry and raspberry fruit, and a zesty finish that removes any chance of cloying remains.  Well done!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.      
92 Rich Cook Sep 28, 2021

Bell'Agio, Emilia IGT (Italy) Rosso Dulce NV ($13, Banfi):   If sweet reds are your thing, the Bell'Agio Rosso Dolce may be the ticket for you. It's beautifully crafted, medium sweet and finishes clean. If sweet reds aren't your thing, you might give this delicious Lambruso a whirl anyway the next time you have barbecue baby back ribs with a sweet BBQ sauce. Or a dessert with chocolate. Or ripe red berries. You get the idea. A Platinum award-winner at the 2018 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
91 Robert Whitley Jan 30, 2018

Albinea Canali, Emilia-Romagna (Italy) Sparkling Dry Lambrusco “Ottocentonero” NV ($13, Banfi Vintners): Fizzy red wine isn't for everyone, but Lambrusco, like sparkling Shiraz, has its admirers-and why not?  It is a fun and festive aperitif, as well as an appropriate accompaniment to certain foods.  In fact, one reason bubbly wine is so popular in Emilia Romagna is that it makes an appealing foil for the region's exceedingly rich and creamy cuisine. Made from native grape varieties (Lambrusco Salamino, Lambrusco Grasparossa, and Lancellotta), Ottocentonero is the color of garnets, with a light pink foam.  Much Lambrusco is sweet, but this one is both refreshingly dry and pleasantly fruity. 88 Marguerite Thomas Apr 3, 2007

Cantina Mesa, IGT Isola dei Nuraghi (Italy) “Buio Buio” 2010 ($20, Montcalm Wine Importers): Made from the Carignano del Sulcis grape, the local name for Carignan grown in the Sulcis region of southwestern Sardinia, Buio Buio is a name to remember.  For a vigorous and robust red, it has surprising finesse.  It’s a cunning combination of ripe spiced fruit and savory, almost bitter, notes. Though it has a lush texture, there’s sufficient backbone -- tannins and acidity -- that makes it ideal with slow-cooked meats.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2015

Piccini , Italia (Italy) “Memoro” NV ($10, Aveníu): There’s a reason why you might be having trouble pinpointing where this wine is from.  In an era when wineries are focusing so much attention on appellation, Memōro takes the opposite road by assembling a roundup of different grapes from a host of different regions:  Merlot from the Veneto, Nero d’Avola from Sicily, and Montepulciano from Abruzzo, as well as passito Primitivo grapes from Puglia.  The result is a pleasant, light-bodied red at an extremely reasonable price.
87 Marguerite Thomas Mar 26, 2013

Locations, Italy (Italy) “I 7” NV ($25):  The Locations project begun by Dave Phinney some years back is focused on what’s possible when blending fine lots of fruit, sometimes from more than a single vintage, and offering it to the public at a great price.  The “I 7” refers to the country of origin, and the 7 refers to the seventh blend made.  Without knowing what’s inside, this strikes me as southern Italian, perhaps Nero d’Avila and Negroamaro, with lots of black fruit showing and tempered nicely by easy oak toast and brown spice.  It’s a savory pleasure that shows what can happen when a master blender gets to work.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.    
94 Rich Cook Jan 28, 2020

Cinzano, Italy () Rosso Vermouth NV ($8, Palm Bay International): The classic mixer for your Americano, Negroni, Manhattan, or funky Martini.  It is brightly herbaceous, slightly oxidative in character, and long on herbs in the finish -- it keeps going, and going, and going. A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
93 Rich Cook Feb 7, 2017

Savanna Samson, Italy (Italy) Barbera “Sogno Tre” 2005 ($50, Domaine Select): Barbera is one of the most food-friendly of all red wines.  The lighter-bodied Barberas, in the $15 to $24 price range, are great with casual dinners such as pizza or pasta with red sauce.  But there are also more serious, fuller-bodied Barberas, such as Savanna Samson's Sogno Tre, which can easily accompany steak or pork dishes.  Savanna Samson happens to be an adult film star who's married to a New York wine shop proprietor  with lots of Italian connections.  The noted Brunello di Montalcino winemaker and wine consultant Roberto Cipresso is the guiding light behind Savanna Samson's wines.  The 2005 Sogno Tre, made from 45-year-old vines in Monferrato, Piedmont (the birthplace of Barbera), is a totally dry, not particularly fruity, very traditionally made Barbera--even though Cipresso and winemaker Fabrizio Iuli make the modern concession of aging the wine in used French barriques.  It has lots of depth, plenty of acidity, and a silky, understated texture, with tart red fruit flavors layered in with suggestions of ripe black fruit.  Unlike most Barberas, the 2005 Sogno Tre improves with some aeration, and it has amazing length on the palate for this variety.  I had planned to just taste this wine, but wound up finishing the entire bottle.  I guess that says more than all of my words!  'Sogno Tre' is the name Savanna Samson is using for her Italian selections; she previously released an old-vine red wine from Latium using the almost extinct Cesanese variety, and last year gave us a Falanghina from Campania.  This might be her best wine yet. 92 Ed McCarthy Feb 17, 2009

Locations, Italy (Italy) “I 4” NV ($19):  Dave Phinney continues to work magic with odd lots from multiple vintages with this blend of Negroamaro and Nero d'Avola from Puglia and a splash of Barbera from Piedmont.  It's his usual juicy mouthful, with that bright Barbera acidity perking everything up.  Black and red fruit, fall spice and a savory note are a pleasure through and through, with a blue note popping up in the finish.  Another great value from a great concept. 91 Rich Cook Oct 3, 2017

Attilio Ghisolfi, Langhe DOC (Italy) Nebbiolo 2015 ($35, Quintessential):  Ghisolfi’s Langhe Nebbiolo could use an additional four to five years in the cellar, but with the right dish (say veal osso bucco) it’s ready now.  Beautifully scented, showing notes of earth and black cherry and wood spice, the gorgeous nose leads to a palate that exhibits impressive black cherry fruit that is hiding behind a wall of tannin waiting to be liberated.  Only time can do that, or a savory meat dish.
93 Robert Whitley Dec 19, 2017

Falesco, Lazio (Italy) "Ferentano" 2004 ($25, Winebow): Lazio, the region surrounding Rome, is not known for great wine.  The Cotarella brothers, Riccardo and Renzo, two of the most famous names in Italian winemaking, changed that image in 1993 when then launched Montiano, a sleek and silky Merlot, from their estate.  (Riccardo, who consults for 60 or so Italian wineries, is that country's answer to France's Michel Rolland.  Renzo has worked with Antinori for 25 years and is now their managing director responsible for wine such as Tignanello and Solaia).  They have now changed the image of white wine from Lazio with Ferentano.  Made entirely from the Roscetto grape, an indigenous grape, and fermented in barriques, it is a harmonious combination of creaminess and a stony minerality.  A classy and seamless wine, you feel--but do not taste--the effect of barriques. It has intensity and length without being heavy because of the underpinning of acidity.  It is a sensational wine. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2007

Peteglia, Montecucco DOCG (Italy) Sangiovese 2019 ($25):  Petaglia is an outstanding wine that shows off a treasure trove of cassis, cherries, blackberries, hints of minerality and spice.  It was aged at least 24 months in oak barrels but rather than dominating the flavor profile the oak serves as a subtle supporting member of the total blend.  The Montecucco DOCG, located between Monte Amiata to the east, Grosseto to the west and Montalcino to the north, may well be the most dynamic and fastest-growing area of Tuscany, with Sangiovese the region’s leading grape.  Montecucco became a separate DOCG in 2011.  The wines are relatively inexpensive if compared to, say, wines from nearby Montalcino, perhaps because Montecucco’s DOCG status is so relatively recent.  While this wine is perfect for drinking now, it will likely continue to evolve for a few more years.  It is beautifully suited to accompany hearty pasta dishes such as creamy pappardelle with shitake mushrooms, or robust meaty presentations such as short ribs glazed in a rich red wine sauce.        
93 Marguerite Thomas Jul 11, 2023

Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2012 ($20, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the great names in the DOCG of Montefalco Sagrantino, also makes an easy to recommend Montefalco Rosso, a junior varsity version of that DOCG.  Whereas regulations for Montefalco Sagrantino require exclusive use of Sagrantino, winemakers are permitted to blend other grapes in Montefalco Rosso, which makes it a far more approachable wine.  A blend of Sangiovese (70%) and equal parts of Sagrantino and Merlot, Arnaldo-Caprai’s Montefalco Rosso is a masterful wine that combines firm minerality, dark fruitiness and an uplifting freshness.  Not a stand-alone aperitivo type of wine, it would be a good choice for a hearty pasta, a robust stew, or grilled beef.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2015

Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Sagrantino (Umbria, Italy) “Collepiano” 2009 ($60, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Montefalco Sagrantino, similar to Barolo and Taurasi, can be an impenetrable wine when young because of substantial tannins. The tannins in this massive 2009 from Arnaldo-Caprai, perhaps the leading producer in the DOCG, are still very evident, even at six years of age, but they are not aggressive or astringent.  The wine conveys an engaging bitter cherry and tarry quality, especially in its extended finish.  This Montefalco Sagrantino is wonderfully dense and mineraly.  It opens dramatically after an hour, so if you’re planning to serve it now, open and decant it well in advance.  Otherwise, commit it to the cellar for another decade.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2015

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) “Riparosso” 2013 ($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Talk about charming rusticity. This Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a cut above your basic “pizza wine,” imparting a lovely combination of cherry-like notes and lively acidity. Fresh and vigorous, it’s just what you need for an “everyday” wine for pasta bathed in a garlicky tomato sauce.
89 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2015

Antonio & Elio Monti, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) "Pignotto" 2001 ($30, Winebow): Dark and dense, this unfined, unfiltered wine is made from 100% Montepulciano grapes grown in a vineyard 820 feet above sea level. The wine resonates with deep, earthy flavors reminiscent of black olives, black licorice, cocoa powder, dried fruits (especially blueberries), and it has an ample supply of fine, dusty tannins. It's a terrific partner for beef or lamb, and is surprisingly good with grilled salmon. 90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 21, 2006

Il Feuduccio di S. Maria d'Orni, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzi, Italy) 2001 ($21, Empson): I confess that, while I almost always enjoy Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, I tend not to think of it as a serious wine so much as a robust, gutsy partner for burgers and pizza. This wine surely fits that description, and yet it also shows striking depth of flavor and a profound, earthy complexity that commands one's complete attention. Seriously ripe and rich, but still pleasingly tart and defined in the finish, this is a remarkable rendition of the breed. 90 Michael Franz Mar 14, 2006

Cala De Poeti, Montepulciano D'Abruzzo DOC (Italy) 2015 ($30, Wine Insiders): The Adriatic Coast joins the party at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition with this beautiful Platinum Award winning wine.  It's a classic combination of rusticity and refinement all at once, with rich red and black berries joined by notes of leaf and crushed rock and a touch of pepper in both aroma and flavor profiles, and a bright finish that adds a kiss of lemon to refresh you.  A perfect foil for a grilled sirloin.
95 Rich Cook Feb 7, 2017

Farnese, Puglia and Abruzzo (Italy) “Cinque Autoctoni” NV ($46, Empson): This surprising wine is made from five different grape varieties that were grown in one or the other of two regions in southern Italy, Abruzzo and Puglia.  As a consequence of its multi-regional composition, it does not bear a vintage date, though a lot number at the bottom of the back label seems to indicate that the fruit was all grown during the 2006 growing season.  What is certain is that the wine is big and bold and very tasty, and that it is comprised of 33% Montepulciano, 25% Sangiovese, 30% Primitivo, 7% Negroamaro and 5% Malvasia Nera.  Dark and dense and very deeply flavored, it shows lots of dark berry fruit with backnotes of dried cherries and a nice spicy edge.  There's some gutsy tannin in the finish, but the ripe, sweet fruit easily counterbalances it. 91 Michael Franz Jan 27, 2009

Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Concerto” 2016 ($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):   Medici Ermete takes Lambrusco seriously, and it shows with the quality of their wines.  This one, named Concerto, is the first single vineyard Lambrusco produced.  It’s made entirely from Lambrusco Salamino grown on their Rampata estate.  Ermes Scardova, their export director for the U.S.A. and Canada, says their yields are roughly half of the legal maximum, which helps explain why the wine is so good.  Compared to their delightful, i Quercioli Lambrusco, Concerto is just more elegant, with finer bubbles and a more suave texture.  It’s “friendly” rather than sweet.  More darkly colored than you’d expect from a wine made from Lambrusco Salamino, Scardova explains that it receives more skin contact during fermentation.  If you’ve not had a Lambrusco recently, you must try this one.  It will open your eyes to the category.  Their Concerto has awarded “Tre Bicchieri” 8 times in a row from Gambero Rosso, Italy’s leading wine guide.  After tasting it, I see why.  It’s a great choice for Indian or other spicy food, BBQ, or ribs this summer.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 25, 2017

Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “i Quercioli” NV ($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):   Lambrusco is making a dramatic comeback, judging from restaurants in New York City and elsewhere.  Diligence and persistence by producers such as Medici Ermete has shown the world the joys of Lambrusco.  An equal blend of Lambrusco Marani and Lambrusco Salamino, i Quercioli is a faintly fizzy, dark, almost purple, red wine with a delicate sweetness and gripping acidity.  Lambrusco Marani lends acidity and color, while Salamino provides bouquet and fruitiness.  It’s a blend that works, producing a wine with fine bubbles, tannins and acidity that balances the sweetness perfectly.  Serve it cold with BBQ or spicy fare this summer.
88 Michael Apstein Jul 25, 2017

Cortonesi, Rosso di Montalcino (Italy) "La Mannella" 2015 ($30, Quintessential Wines):  While you are waiting for the more massive Brunellos from this vintage to mature, a “rosso” from this very good vintage makes a beautiful alternative.   Cortonesi’s ‘La Manella’ shows notes of dried black cherry and spice, with a moderate level of tannin and a long finish that comes to life with grilled meats of savory cheeses.  
90 Robert Whitley Sep 17, 2019

Tenuta La Palazza, Sangiovese di Romagna (Italy) "Drei Dona, Pruno" Riserva Superiore 2004 ($47, Vineyard Brands):

Though my experience is somewhat limited, this definitely is the most impressive Sangiovese di Romagna I've ever tried.  (It's also the most expensive.)  Firmly structured, with dark cherry-flavored fruit, and plenty of leathery, dusty spice in the finish, it also is quite tannic -- not unlike a good Brunello from Montalcino.  That comparison is a form of high praise, and this wine merits just that.

Gregorina, Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) 2012 ($15, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Sangiovese, Italy’s most widely planted red grape, is held in high esteem in Tuscany where it is the core for Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the only grape allowed for Brunello di Montalcino.  Somehow, its glow fades as it hits the Emilia Romagna border, which is a shame because it can produce great value wine there, as Gregorina demonstrates.  A great combination of earthy and dark cherry flavors gives it a ripe and savory tension.  The lively acidity inherent to Sangiovese keeps the palate refreshed and you coming back for more.  It is a knockout bargain.  For once, Superiore actually describes the wine.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2015

Drei Dona/Tenuta La Palazzo, Sangiovese di Romano (Italy) Superiore Riserva “Pruno” 2004 ($47, Vineyard Brands): As is often the case with European wines, the names can be a source of confusion.  Paul Lukacs, my colleague here at WRO, lists the producer as Tenuta La Palazzo.  The family's name is Drei Dona.  But let there be no confusion about the quality of the wine.  This powerful--but not overdone--pure Sangiovese-based wine shows that in the right hands that variety needs no help from Cabernet Sauvignon to deliver intensity and structure.  Fine tannins and hallmark acidity from Sangiovese support an alluring black cherry-like richness, add grip, and prevent this concentrated wine from being jammy.  Although enjoyable now, this succulent offering would benefit from another year or so to allow its flavors to unfold even more. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2008

Brancaia, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Ilatraia” 2011 ($70, E&J Gallo): This is Brancaia's take on a Bordeaux blend, and it succeeds on all counts, delivering a dry, food friendly style that would sit easily alongside its French counterparts.  Blackberry, dried herbs, brown spice, a touch of saddle and earth are well knit together and linger long.  Food is required -- roast beef with blue cheese butter comes to mind.  Contains 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Petit Verdot and 20% Cabernet Franc.  A Platinum Award-winner at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Sep 27, 2016

Barone Ricasoli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) "Casalferro" 2008 ($62, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  One of the more interesting wines on the market, this is a single-vineyard, 100% Merlot that doesn't list the grape variety anywhere on the bottle.  Baron Francesco Ricasoli says, "We are not selling varietal wines.  We are selling terroir wines.  If people buy this because they want Merlot, they will be disappointed." That's most likely true:  The aromas of cherry with some herbaceousness might fit on Bordeaux's Right Bank, but the mouthfeel is unique, featuring the fine acidity of Chianti with the gentle tannins of Merlot.  The flavors are mostly of cherry, with some cherry tobacco notes, and that acidity allows you to drink it with foods you would never imagine opening Merlot with.  "This is Merlot, but it's speaking the language of Brolio," Ricasoli says.  It's a positive example of internationalization providing not a generic wine that could come from anywhere, but a great new type of wine that we hadn't previously imagined. 94 W. Blake Gray Oct 18, 2011

Ecco Domani, Tre Venezie (Italy) Merlot 2004 ($11, Ecco Domani USA): A commonly heard moan in wine circles is that it's hard to find a good Merlot (or Pinot Noir) for less than $15.00.  There are plenty of value Merlots, both import and domestic, available, but many lack character and varietal definition.  California's E & J Gallo has been importing Ecco Domani, a line of Italian wines that have been turning heads for quality and value.  The grapes for this IGT wine were sourced from the province of Trento, Grave del Friuli and Grave del Veneto, all within the Tre Venezie region of northern Italy.  An interesting winemaking technique that adds to the sumptuousness of this high-profile fruity Merlot is the varietal blend and the addition of small percentages of rack-dried (passito) grapes.  The blend: 92% Merlot (9% passito), 2% Teroldego passito, 2% Lagrein passito and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon passito.  The concentrated flavors and texture of passito gives this Merlot an intensity of flavor and a full body.  It's lush with black plum and cherry flavors, a hint of spice, supported by good texture and length and the 12.7% alcohol is a modest and welcome alternative to the growing number of high-octane New World reds. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 16, 2007

Emilio Bulfon, Tre Venezie IGT (Italy) Piculit Neri 2019 ($21, Terroir Imports):  Emilio Bulfon is a hero to those of us who appreciate the diversity and distinction among indigenous grape varieties.  In 1974, Bulfon set out to rescue native Friulian grape varieties that were in danger of extinction as demand for Merlot, Pinot Grigio and other international varieties was growing.  Bulfon has successfully nurtured vineyards of varieties like Cividin, Cjanorie, Sciaglin and Piculit Neri.  This Piculit Neri might express the soul of Friulian red wine.  Grown in the western Friuli foothills, it offers a delicious combination of floral, fruit and spice nuances.  Pure cherry and raspberry fruits are enlivened by hints of blackberry, fresh roses and allspice.  This refined and sleek style is underlain by subtleties of wild herbs and a smoky intensity.  Enjoy it with flavorful Mediterranean recipes or most anything off the grill.     
92 Wayne Belding Feb 23, 2021

Grosjean Frères, Vallée d’Aoste (Italy) “Torrette” 2021 ($33, Rosenthal Wine Merchant):  Vallée d’Aoste, is located north of Piedmont and tucked into the mountainous region bordering France and Switzerland.  Like many Vallée d’Aoste vineyards, the Grosjean family has been working their vineyards for multiple generations.  Today, their organic and sustainable focused approach is a core tenant in their winemaking process.  The 2021 Torrette is lighter in body but has an oversized expression of fruit.  Tart black fruit, pomegranate, unwashed button mushrooms, iron filings, and rose petals all make up some of the complex but well integrated flavors that their Torrette provides.  The wine’s acidity and tannins are nicely balanced and suggest this wine will develop further in the bottle.  I would recommend opening a bottle now and saving another for late 2020s to the early 2030s.        
93 Vince Simmon Mar 26, 2024

Maison Anselmet, Vallée d’Aoste DOP (Italy) Pinot Noir "Semel Pater" 2019 ($53):  France meets Italy. Yes, Italy’s Aosta Valley borders France, but it is still a part of Italy.  So, why is the appellation for this wine and the name of the producer in French?  Shouldn’t it be DOC Valle d’Aosta and Tenuta instead of Maison?  Clearly, they march to a different drummer.  Indeed, Anselmet is known for focusing on forgotten autochthonous grapes, such as Petit Rouge and Cornalin, to name just two.  But, they also make this spectacular Pinot Noir.  Who knew Pinot Noir did so well in Italy?  This one delivers the plethora of fruit and earthy flavors for which Pinot Noir is famous.  It has good weight and ripeness despite a modest 13.5 percent stated-alcohol.  Suavely textured, this energetic wine is a delight to drink now.  The problem is deciding whether to drink it with coq au vin or fettucine with funghi porcini!           
93 Michael Apstein Jan 18, 2022

Rocca Sveva, Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso (Italy) 2010 ($22, MW Imports): The wine is deep and dark in color, intense in flavor, and long lasting on the taste buds, yet it also manages to be stunningly light and graceful in texture.  This sleight of hand is accomplished via the Ripasso technique in which skins left over from the fermentation of Amarone are added to newly fermented (or partially fermented) Valpolicella wine, which triggers a second fermentation.  Although it may remind you of a fine Zinfandel, this Ripasso comes in at only 13.5% alcohol.  It is made for food.  It’s both light enough for poultry, and substantial enough for pork and certain beef preparations as well as most pasta dishes -- I can’t think of a better partner for spaghetti and meatballs than Rocca Sveva Ripasso.
92 Marguerite Thomas Dec 2, 2014

TreRose, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Italy) Santa Caterina 2012 ($35, Palm Bay International): Vino Nobile when it’s good is the ultimate red wine for food, particularly roasted and grilled meats. TreRose has delivered this beauty from the 2012 vintage. Dry almost to the point of being austere, it is still somewhat closed, but underneath the outer veneer there is an inviting savory note with black cherry fruit purity, fresh acidity and exceptional length. It needs food, but it also needs time. A Platinum award-winner at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition.
96 Robert Whitley Sep 20, 2016

Piccini, Vino Rosso d'Italia (Italy) Memoro NV ($12):  This savory red draws its inspiration from four distinct regions in Italy -- Sicily (Nero d'Avola), Puglia (Primitivo), Abruzzo (Montepulciano) and the Veneto (Merlot). An eclectic blend to be sure, but inviting and delicious at the same time. Notes of licorice, blackberry and spice come with a ripe, juicy mouthfeel and soft tannins. This is a non-vintage effort, but its tasty and priced well.
88 Robert Whitley Aug 25, 2015

Rosé:

Menage a Trois, Italy (Italy) Sparkling Rosé NV ($15, Trinchero Family Estates):   The Trinchero family knows a thing or two about Rosé, including knowing how to spot a needle in a haystack of import possibilities.  Here’s a fresh take on fizz in a blend of Pinot Noir, Merlot and Raboso that is long on white peach and key lime aromas and flavors that get a lively mousse to ride on.  There’s a fruit brightness here that’s hard to achieve in a dry sparkler.  Well done!  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2020 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.      
92 Rich Cook May 26, 2020

Tasca d’Almerita, Sicily (Italy) Nerello Mascalese “Le Rose di Regaleali Terre Siciliane” 2015 ($13, Winebow): Cool, moist and juicy, with chaste fruit flavors and a sprightly splash of acidity on the finish, this pretty pink wine is versatile and adaptable to a variety of occasions. Reasonably priced and easy on the palate, sip this rosato solo or pour it at a party, serve it at a picnic or cook-out, toast the recent graduate or raise a glass of it to your mom. Le Rose di Regaliali is definitely a multi-purpose, multi-occasion wine. 90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 12, 2016

Santa Margherita, Trevenezie (Italy) Rosé 2020 ($26, Santa Margherita USA): The romantic color of a pale pinkish sunset, this delicate dry Rosé is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero.  Subtle and eminently sippable, with faint suggestions of citrus, the wine’s invigorating acidity makes it an enjoyable aperitif as well as an accompaniment to shrimp or other shellfish dishes.  The vast Trevenezie region (which includes, among others, Veneto and Trentino) had its beginnings at the end of World War I.       
92 Marguerite Thomas Jan 25, 2022

Confetti!, Trevenezie IGT (Italy) Rosé 2018 ($12):  Don’t be fooled by the name here -- this is serious, bone dry rosé that will please the most serious Provencal fans out there.  Crisp and bright, it shows lively citrus and strawberry fruit, mild pepper and light herb tones that make for a refreshing glass of Italian summertime.  Drink up!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.  
93 Rich Cook Apr 16, 2019

Cavit, Trevenezie IGT (Italy) Rosé 2018 ($10, Palm Bay International):  Full of fun, lifted by delicate effervescence and finished off with just a little kiss of sweetness, this is a delightful rosé for relaxed summer sipping.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.  
90 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2019

Pasqua, Trevenezie IGT (Italy) “11 Minutes” Rosé 2018 ($20):  A delightful rosé from the Veneto that’s not your everyday combination of parts, but will make for a nice everyday drinker this summer.  A nose of flowers, strawberry and cherry leads you to a bright palate that delivers on the promise of the nose and adds citric acidity and a nutty note in the finish.  It won’t last eleven minutes if there’s a crowd.  Saluté!  Contains 50% Corvina, 25% Trebbiano di Lugana, 15% Syrah and 10% Carmenere.   
90 Rich Cook Jun 25, 2019

Mionetto, Veneto/Trentino (Italy) Rosé Extra Dry “Sergio” NV ($22, Mionetto USA): Mionetto, the stellar Prosecco producer, has expanded his portfolio outside of the traditional Prosecco zone to make this lovely Rosé sparkler.  Darker pink than many rosés, it has a softness--not exactly a sweetness--that makes it easy to drink as an aperitif. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 30, 2007

Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2015 ($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): At first blush -- no pun intended -- you’d think this wine was a marketing genius, encompassing two very hot wine categories:  Pinot Grigio and Rosé.  But no, the pink -- actually copper hue -- of the wine comes from the light red color of the skins of the Pinot Grigio grape.  Indeed, you taste and feel the skin contact because there’s a subtle and welcome bitterness in the finish emanating from the tannins in the skin.  It’s a good foil for the crisp strawberry-like fruitiness.  This is a long and substantial wine, a perfect choice for grilled rare tuna.
92 Michael Apstein May 23, 2017

Sparkling:

Martini & Rossi, Asti DOCG (Italy) NV ($13):  This sweet bubbly from Asti is the perfect end to a holiday meal, aromatically inviting and not too sweet to overwhelm the taste buds.  Made from the Moscato Bianco grape, this wine shows lush aromas of pear and tropical fruit with a soft, elegant mousse and a clean, lingering finish.  Serve it with cakes or pies that are not sticky sweet, or with Italian cookies, particularly the wedding cookie. 90 Robert Whitley Dec 5, 2017

Cleto Chiarli, Emilia-Romagna (Italy) “Brut de Noir Rosé” NV ($16, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Here is an absolute refresher for hot Indian summer days -- pleasantly just the slightest bit off dry, with lively ripe strawberry and cherry fruit wrapped in lemon zest.  No pretense here -- just drink in the sunshine!   This sparkling wine contains 85% Lambrusco Grasparossa and 15% Pinot Nero.  
90 Rich Cook Sep 17, 2019

Cleto Chiarli, Emilia-Romagna (Italy) Brut de Noir Rosé NV ($16):  The cuvee is primarily Lambrusco Grasparossa with a touch of Pinot Nero and the results is a bright, refreshing sparkling rose from Central Italy’s most famous region for gastronomy.   Shows lovely notes of strawberry and cherry, finishes clean and dry, with a finish that begs you take another sip.   
89 Robert Whitley Sep 10, 2019

Corte San Ruffillo, Forli IGP (Italy) Pet-Nat “Fritz” 2018 ($25, Dark Star Imports):  The label on this fresh Pet-Nat calls it “frizzantino baldanzoso,” or bold bubbly, and it delivers on the promise with a yeasty, fresh presentation.  Stony minerality offsets Sorrento lemon flavors and a lightly scouring texture leaves a long tart lemon impression.  Some Pet-Nats can be funky, but there is nothing but purity of aroma and flavor here.  Well done!    
91 Rich Cook Dec 21, 2021

Ricci Curbastro, Franciacorta (Italy) Extra Brut 2015 ($45, Villa Italia Gourmet Food & Wines and others):  Ricci Curbastro has created a truly exceptional bubbly with the 2015 Extra Brut.  Made in a very dry style (2 grams per liter of residual sugar), the 2015 Ricci Curbastro Extra Brut is pure, lively and refreshing.  It is a blend of 50% Pinot Nero and 50% Chardonnay wines from vineyards whose climate is tempered by the deep waters of the Lago d’Iseo.  This exquisitely balanced sparkling wine is pure, complex, exciting and delicious!  The bouquet shows fresh citrus and green apple fruits enhanced by hints of flowers, cream and subtle yeastiness.  The flavors resonate with juicy lime, lemon and green apple fruits enhanced by the subtle floral and yeasty components.  Even with its minimal residual sugar, the Ricci Curbastro Extra Brut has a deliciously creamy texture that allows the pure flavors to linger well at the finish.         
94 Wayne Belding Mar 8, 2022

Villa Crespia, Franciacorta (Italy) “Novalia” Brut NV ($25, Vinifera Imports): This crisp, refreshing and dry sparkler based on Chardonnay from Italy’s Franciacorta region is a wonderful aperitif wine, but it will also be good with light fish dishes (oysters, steamed clams, spaghetti alle vongole). It hits the palate with a whoosh of fresh and fruity flavors that evolve into more of a nutty, mineral-tinged essence that invigorates and energizes the taste buds.  The persistent finish is another of Villa Crespia’s many virtues.
91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 16, 2016

Maschio, Italy () Rosé Sparkling Wine NV ($14): Something different in a Brut Rosé - It's made from Raboso (meaning "angry" in Venetian) Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir, and it shows aromas of fresh, clean spicy strawberry, with what I'll call a pleasantly angry pepper note that adds interest.  A nice general quaffer at a great price.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
92 Rich Cook Feb 7, 2017

Bolla, Italy () Rosé Sparkling Wine NV ($13): This wine packs a lot of flavorful, foamy fun in to a $13 bottle.  There’s a decidedly red tone to the fruit quite aside from any suggestion from the wine’s appearance, and though there’s significant sweetness in the finish, there is also enough acidity to keep this refreshing.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
90 Michael Franz Apr 11, 2017

Martini & Rossi, Italy (Italy) Sparkling Rosé NV ($13, Martini & Rossi Wine Company): A blend of Moscato Bianco, Malvasia, and Brachetto grapes sourced from vineyards in both Piedmont and the Veneto, this new release from the venerable Vermouth producer tastes off-dry but balanced and harmonious.  The peachy Muscat flavors come to the fore, but the other grapes provide depth, and the wine finishes on an attractively firm note.  Sporting only 9.5% alcohol, it should make for attractive aperitif sipping. 88 Paul Lukacs Jun 23, 2009

Valdo, Italy (Italy) Nerello Mascalese Brut Rosé NV ($14):  The Valdo winery, located in the town of Valdobbiadene, is well known for Prosecco, but sources grapes for this bone dry rosé from the Argiento province in Sicily.  The grape variety is Nerello Mascalese, and the vineyard is located nearly 1,000 feet above sea level.  That elevation allows the fruit to retain acidity, and the resulting wine tastes delightfully crisp and lively.  With red berry flavors enhanced by lemony citrus notes, this bubbly is long and lean on the palate.  A fine value, it tastes above all else refreshing.
88 Paul Lukacs Jul 24, 2012

Cleto Chiarli, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Vecchia Modena, Premium” NV ($16, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Of the family of Lambrusco grape varieties, Lambrusco di Sorbara arguably produces the finest, most elegant wines, and Cleto Chiarli’s has got to be the benchmark.  Unlike most sparkling wines, Chiarli makes this wine with one fermentation in a pressurized tank, which captures and contains the carbon dioxide in the wine.  This process makes a frizzante, or semi-sparkling wine with less pressure and fewer bubbles.  It has a lovely pale rose color and lively bubbles.  Enticing and delicate aromas of berries and red currant with rose petal notes introduce flavors of strawberry, cherry and currants and an edge of fizzy bubbles.  It’s dry and crisp with a lingering finish, perfect as an aperitif, with grilled salmon or Parmigiano Reggiano.   The bottle and its label are a reproduction of an 1892 Chiarli Lambrusco that won an international award at the 1900 World Expo in Paris.   
93 Rebecca Murphy May 12, 2020

Cleto Chiarli, Lambrusco Gasparossa di Castelvetro DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Vigneto Cialdini NV ($17, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Cleto Chiarli was a restaurateur in the 1880s in Modena, Italy.  The wine he had been making to serve with his food was so well received by his diners, he created a winery, Cantina Cleto Chiarli.  Chiarli is credited with bringing the Charmat method of sparkling wine making to the region.  His great-grandsons Mauro and Anselmo Chiari oversee the family wine business today.  The Lambrusco Gasparossa grape produces the most intense and concentrated of the Lambrusco wines.  While the DOC rules require a minimum of 85 percent of the grape in the wine, Chiarli makes the wine with 100 percent Lambrusco Gasparossa grapes.  This is an intense, concentrated wine with almost black, ruby-purple color and vivid magenta colored bubbles.  Aromas of black cherries, plums and blackberries mingle with floral notes.  In the mouth it is dry with rich concentrated black fruit and dried cherries layered with savory anise black pepper.  Prolific bubbles, crisp acidity and grainy tannins provide ample support for the robust fruit.  Enjoy it with a charcuterie selection that includes Prosciutto di Parma or a grilled lamb.     
93 Rebecca Murphy May 12, 2020

Cleto Chiarli, Lambrusco Gasparossa di Castelvetro DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Amabile” NV ($12, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  I eyed the label of this wine suspiciously.  Amabile means “amiable” or “likeable,” but to me it meant sweet.  That brought back unpleasant memories of the occasional bottles of sickly-sweet Lambrusco that had blown their corks, spilling wine onto the floor in the wine room of the Italian restaurant where I worked as a sommelier.  Those days are long gone, and today it is possible to find a wealth of high-quality wines made from an array of Lambrusco varieties ranging from bone dry to sweet.  In the case of this frizzante from Cleto Chiarli, Amabile means scrumptious and delicious.  Yes, it is a bit sweet, but the concentrated, savory black cherry, plum fruit is balanced with piquant acidity and sturdy tannins, and only eight percent alcohol.  Its color is a deep, rich, ruby purple with magenta bubbles.  Think of this wine as a perfect partner with foods that can be challenging for wine: smoky barbeque with sweet-savory sauces or spicy curries.  We served it with chicken roasted with garam masala, a very aromatic spice combo that includes cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and cloves.  The recipe also included ginger, jalapeno and a yogurt sauce.  The wine easily stood up to the myriad flavors and became an intricate part of a delicious meal.   
90 Rebecca Murphy May 12, 2020

Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, Pignoletto Spumante DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “1502" 2018 ($20):  Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, a large Tuscan-based cooperative, makes this delightful sparkling wine from the Pignoletto grape, not one that is widely known outside of central Italy.  Its inherently high acidity makes it a good choice for bubbly because growers can let it ripen, allowing its exuberant floral and fruity character to shine, without it becoming sappy or flabby.  This one is charming and fruity, with just enough structure to make it a perfect patio aperitivo on a humid summer’s day.  
88 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2019

Bisol, Prosecco (Italy) “Jeio” Brut NV ($14, Wilson Daniels):  Prosecco has become so popular that its name has become synonymous with sparkling wine, replacing “Champagne” as that moniker.  For example, on a recent flight when I requested a sparkling wine, I was offered a “Prosecco,” which turned out to be a Cava.  Along with this popularity has come a plethora of insipid Prosecco as producers want to join the gravy train.  Within the enlarging sea of mediocre Prosecco, it is important to highlight those that are excellent and gave the category its reputation in the beginning.  Bisol is one of those.  Jeio, Bisol’s second selection of wines, is a blend of wines made from grapes grown across the overall Prosecco area.  It has unusual character for a so-called “second” wine, conveying a harmony of fruitiness and a touch of bitterness in the finish.  It’s a great bargain. 
90 Michael Apstein May 7, 2019

Bocelli, Prosecco (Italy) NV ($16, August Wine Group): Brides-to-be who love the immensely popular classical singer Andrea Bocelli will surely want to pour Bocelli Prosecco at their upcoming nuptials. Although the tenor has only recently become involved in winemaking himself, the Bocelli family has been producing vino for several generations in Italy. This soft, friendly fizz is their first foray into Prosecco. The “Extra Dry” notation on the label lets you know that melodies of sweetness blend into this overall harmonious sparkling wine. Even people who would rather listen to Vermin Twins than Verdi will still enjoy Bocelli bubbly.
88 Marguerite Thomas Apr 16, 2013

La Marca, Prosecco DOC (Italy) Extra Dry NV ($19, E&J Gallo):  The criticism of Extra Dry Prosecco in the past has been the sometimes cloying sweetness.  That isn’t the case with La Marca’s expression of an Extra Dry Prosecco.  Beautifully balanced, this is a bubbly with a soft mousse, inviting fruit aromas of peach and green apple, with an impressively long finish.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
94 Robert Whitley Jun 18, 2019

Cupcake, Prosecco DOC (Italy) Extra Dry NV ($16):  Cupcake Prosecco is an excellent example of the extra dry style, which, ironically, is actually slightly sweeter than the brut style.  This latest release from Cupcake is smooth and fresh on the palate, shows luscious notes of stone fruit and spice, and finishes crisp and clean.   A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
93 Robert Whitley Oct 1, 2019

Voveti, Prosecco DOC (Italy) NV ($18, Freixenet USA): The Voveti Prosecco offers up an impressive mouthful of fruit, more richness than is typical of prosecco, and a finish that endures. A Platinum award-winner at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition.
93 Robert Whitley Sep 27, 2016

La Marca, Prosecco DOC (Italy) NV ($18): La Marca has been delivering quality in Prosecco for a while now, and this iteration represents a step up.  It's a touch more dry, and it has bright pear and stony mineral aromas that translate well on the palate, with none of the beery finish that can be an issue with Glera.  Add in that it's available everywhere, and you've got a winner.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
92 Rich Cook Apr 4, 2017

La Marca, Prosecco DOC (Italy) Extra Dry NV ($19):  Spot on off dry Prosecco, with bright peach and citrus flavors, and no beery aftertaste that can afflict the Glera grape if it's not handled properly.   An available everywhere excuse to celebrate any occasion -- like Tuesday.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Monterey International Wine Competition. 
92 Rich Cook Mar 12, 2019

Martini, Prosecco DOC (Italy) 2016 ($24): The trend in Prosecco in recent years has been toward the drier brut style, but the extra dry vintage Prosecco from Martini is a stunner and exquisitely balanced despite the greater dosage level. This is a bubbly with bright fruit aromas of green apple and lime, a creamy texture, and a crisp finish.
92 Robert Whitley Aug 8, 2017

Zonin, Prosecco DOC (Italy) Cuvee 1821 NV ($15): A fresh, clean and lively glass of Italian fizz that avoids any beery character, focusing on lemon, lime and wet stone aromas and flavors, and finishing with a zesty pop of acidity that waters your mouth and keeps you returning to the glass.  Easy to find, easy to drink.  Go get it.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
92 Rich Cook Feb 7, 2017

Cupcake Vineyards, Prosecco DOC (Italy) Extra Dry NV ($15, The Wine Group): If you’re after a glass of foamy fun rather than an object for prolonged cerebral contemplation, your ship has come in.  Floral aromatics let you know what’s coming on the palate, and sure enough, this offers a big blast of bubbly sweetness.  There’s enough acidity to draw you back for another sip.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
90 Michael Franz Apr 4, 2017

Dom Bertiol, Prosecco DOC (Italy) NV ($14, Opici): The bubbles in this charming sparkler are more delicate than one finds in many Proseccos, and there is just the right amount of sweetness underlying the essentially dry wine.  Crisp and refreshing, it can be served as a welcoming aperitif or even as an accompaniment to certain foods: soups and rich cheesy dishes, for example. 90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 4, 2014

Martini, Prosecco DOC (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV ($13, Martini & Rossi):  An Extra Dry Prosecco with some depth and brightness -- an unusual combination that I'd like to see more of.  This is a crowd pleasing bubbly if ever there was one, with very crisp acidity carrying apple, pear and a touch of spice in a festive fizzy format that's tailor made for your holiday gatherings, all at a price that will keep it flowing into the new year.  A little Pinot Noir and Chardonnay provide a welcome assist.  Nicely done! 90 Rich Cook Nov 14, 2017

La Marca, Prosecco DOC (Italy) NV ($17, E. & J. Gallo): Light and lacy in texture, with just the right amount of effervescence to delight and refresh the palate, this Prosecco is fresh and fruity, with a pleasantly sweet rather than acidic, edge.  Enjoy it for many different occasions: the perfect pour for sophisticated brunches, an invigorating aperitif, a charming accompaniment to seafood and other light fare, and certainly a lovely “toasting” wine for all celebrations.
89 Marguerite Thomas Sep 29, 2015

La Marca, Prosecco DOC (Italy) NV ($17, La Marca USA): Light and airy, this is an uncomplicated fizz that invites you to kick back and relax.  The aromas are delicately floral, the flavors faintly peachy, with the overall impression as buoyant, clean and graceful as a ballerina’s pirouette. 89 Marguerite Thomas Sep 9, 2014

Valdo, Prosecco DOC (Italy) Brut NV ($15):  This is a straightforward Prosecco that is clean and refreshing, showing notes of green apple with mouth-watering acidity and a dry finish. An excellent quaffer that will also pair nicely with oysters, steamed clams and mussels and even grilled fish.
88 Robert Whitley Nov 14, 2017

Valdo, Prosecco DOC (Italy) Brut NV ($15, Esprit du Vin):  Prosecco makes a fine alternative to pricier Champagne and other more expensive sparklers when you're looking for fun and easy drinking, and there's an ocean of it out there, so it helps to know of a few above par wines worth spearing.  The Valdo "regular" is such a wine, with delicate melon and floral aromas that lead to a crisp palate of melon, citrus and stony minerality, with no beery finish that sometimes afflicts Glera.  Cheers!
88 Rich Cook Dec 12, 2017

Minonetto, Prosecco DOC Treviso (Italy) NV ($16): Clear, direct and ebullient, this charmer from Mionetto beats out a good deal of the Prosecco competition.  It has that sweet-fruity edge that often characterizes sparklers in a similar price range but in this Mionetto that is tempered by enough by acidity to make it refreshing rather than stodgy.  With holidays right around the corner it’s not too early to stock up! 90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 27, 2015

Valdo, Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOCG (Italy) "Oro Puro" NV ($20):  Valdobbiadene is the sweet spot for Prosecco and produces by far the best wines, almost without exception. On the nose this Prosecco is exceptionally fruity with a strong note of pear, which follows on the palate where it is joined by the taste of ripe apple. Well balanced, with depth that is unusual in Prosecco, and an impressive finish. 91 Robert Whitley Nov 14, 2017

Valdo, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Oro Puro” NV ($20, Esprit du Vin):  One of the few DOCGs in the huge Prosecco area, and one that delivers consistently better juice that is worthy of the designation.  I like the fresh, stony vibe of this wine, where sweet lemon and floral aromas lead to a bright, dry palate of lemon and a touch of toast.  Clean and delightfully crisp, it will make a great aperitif, or a partner for lighter fare. 
91 Rich Cook Dec 12, 2017

Kirkland, Prosecco, Asolo DOCG Superiore (Italy) NV ($7):  I don’t know how they do it, but Costco’s all-value-to-the-consumer business model might hit its highest note with this offering.  From a tiny area within the larger Prosecco DOC, Asolo DOCG Superiore produces sparkling wines of class and character, with some bottlings fetching over forty dollars.  This Extra Dry comes in on the dry side of its spectrum, and it delivers pear, nectarine and wet stone aromas that translate nicely on the creamy midpalate, with lingering zesty but soft citrus in the long finish.  If you fancy yourself a bubbly aficionado, you need get your hands on some of this.  It’s fine as a festive sipper, and it upgrades an Aperol Spritz nicely.  My cart usually doesn’t leave the warehouse without two or three bottles.     
91 Rich Cook Dec 22, 2020

Caposaldo, Prosseco DOC (Italy) Brut NV ($16, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Prosecco is one of the fastest growing segments of the wine industry and it’s easy to understand why.  Quality, on the upswing over the past decade, is high and the price relatively low.  That and the fact that more producers have embraced the brut style and moved away from the sweetness levels that turned off many consumers in the past.  The Caposaldo shows notes of ripe apple with a fine mousse and a crisp, clean finish.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 
94 Robert Whitley Jan 22, 2019

Bisol, Prosseco DOC (Italy) “Jeio” NV ($15, Wilson Daniels):  A beautifully fresh Prosecco, clean and bright throughout, with an emphasis on lemon, lime and peach.  One of the best I’ve tasted in the price range -- no surprise from this producer.  Serve as a vibrant aperitif, and enjoy both style and substance. 
91 Rich Cook Oct 23, 2018

Medici Ermete e Figli, Reggiano DOC (Italy) Lambrusco Rosso Secco “Arte e Concerto” 2020 ($25):  Full disclosure --  I'm generally not a fan of Lambrusco, or fizzy red wine of any kind for that matter.  This wine is changing my mind, and I'm always on the lookout for such beasts -- those that spin tradition on its head and get my attention in a good way.  This delivers on all counts, with classic varietal aromas, moderate fizz and solid berry character delivered in dry style.  It’s quite satisfying.  Yes, I'm having a second glass.       
91 Rich Cook Dec 21, 2021

Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco (Italy) “Concerto” NV ($22):  The world’s first single vineyard Lambrusco, Concerto is a deliciously sophisticated dry (secco), semi-sparkling red wine.  The excellent 2020 harvest is beautifully balanced between acidity, tannins and fruit, with gentle bubbles that were achieved through natural fermentation.  Like all Lambrusco the alcohol level is relatively low, in this case 11.5%.  One of the oldest Lambrusco estates in Italy, Medici Ermete has been in business since the 1890s.  After several decades of sustainable farming it converted entirely to organic methods in 2018, and as of the 2020 vintage the estate will be no longer be using any herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers.  Enjoy Concerto as an aperitif or pair it with food.  I know from recent experience that it is delicious with roast chicken.      
94 Marguerite Thomas Jan 25, 2022

Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “Concerto" 2017 ($21, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Lambrusco is often overlooked when fine Italian wines are discussed.  While there is a history of simple, inexpensive Lambrusco imported to the United States, the best Lambruscos bear little resemblance to their mundane brethren and are well worth seeking out.  The Ermete Medici estate produces delicious, classic Lambruscos. Their Concerto is a rare, single vineyard Lambrusco drawn from the low-yielding Tenuta La Rampata vineyard in Reggio Emilia.  The 2017 Concerto Lambrusco is a brilliant purplish-ruby in color and exhibits a lively fizziness when poured.  Ripe raspberry, strawberry and plum scents are enhanced by a floral violet aroma.  The flavors are pure and lively, with layers of strawberry, blackberry and raspberry fruits dancing across the palate with a juicy brightness that balances the barely off-dry finish.  Fine Lambrusco like the Concerto is the perfect companion for Prosciutto di Parma or other cured meats.  Try it and see.  You’ll be a fan for life.  
91 Wayne Belding Dec 10, 2019

Cesarini Sforza, Trento (Italy) Brut Rosé NV ($27, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cesarini Sforza Brut Rosé, produced from 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir grapes, has a wonderfully balanced combination of ripe fruit, texture, depth, and minerality.  It pours with an attractive light salmon color with an impeccably fine mousse.  The lush palate delivers flavors of Rainier cherry, pomegranate, delicate grapefruit, and savory notes of brioche and chopped almond.  Bright acidity keeps things refreshing while the active bubbles accentuate the depth of fruit — leaving a lovely, persistent, and dry finish.   
90 Miranda Franco Oct 4, 2022

Altemasi, Trento DOC (Italy) Riserva “Graal” 2006 ($60, Palm Bay International): If you're looking for a unique bottle of bubbles for your sparkling wine aficionado friends, this is a winner.  It's definitely not trying to masquerade as Champagne -- it's got its own charms and is proud to show them off.  Disgorged in 2014, it shows classic aged character and freshness all at once, with apple, honey, toffee, lemon creme, stone and just a touch of oxidized character that marks many famous fizzies.  Factor in a fine mousse and a delicate finish, and you've got a great ringer to toss blind to your crowd.  I tasted this twice with similar notes.  An exciting discovery!
94 Rich Cook Oct 13, 2015

Altemasi, Trento DOC (Italy) Brut NV ($24, Palm Bay International): All that bubbles in Italy is not Prosecco -- there's quite a bit of Metodo Classico (Champagne method) sparkling wine to be had, and much of it is very high caliber.  That's the case with this 100% Chardonnay brut from Altemasi, made in light and cleansing aperitif style with flavors of lemon, apple and stony minerality.  A creamy texture and a mineral driven finish make for a great evening opener at a nice price. 90 Rich Cook Oct 13, 2015

Moser, Trento DOC (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy) “51,151" Brut NV ($23, Divino International Wine and Spirit):  The name of the wine, "51,151", refers to a cycling record that Francesco Moser set in Mexico City in 1984, according to their website.  This 100 percent Chardonnay base bubbly is, indeed, racy (pun intended), but the elegance imparted by that grape shows, making for a lovely balance.  Its clean and crisp character makes it an excellent aperitive, while its sturdy spine allows you to enjoy it with a meal, with grilled swordfish for example.   
90 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2019

Enza, Treviso (Italy) Prosecco NV ($15, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): Quick--grab a couple of bottles of Enza for your holiday celebration! Reasonably priced, lightly bubbly, fruity and somewhat sweet, this Prosecco just shouts out “PARTY!” In its oh-so-Italian-looking stylish bottle, this is a wine that will complement many different things, from canapés to cookies.
88 Marguerite Thomas Dec 25, 2012

Enza, Treviso (Italy) Prosecco NV ($15, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): Prosecco is everywhere these days. A good friend serves only Prosecco as his aperitif wine and I see it in wine shops and supermarkets. But like so many products, including wine, some stand out while others are simple and average. Enza Prosecco froths and foams and shows shy stone fruit aromas and flavors, but then it prickles on the tongue like a soft drink and it’s a bit tart in the finish. Enza Prosecco is simple and fruity, but the price is right and it finishes at 11% alcohol.
86 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 25, 2012

Bisol, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Italy) “Crede” 2017 ($24, Wilson Daniels):  I don’t often think of Prosecco as having a reserved or austere side, but this bottling succeeds with floral and stone aromas that present on the palate in a very dry style that emphasizes stony minerality over delicate fruit.  An interesting note -- 10% Pinot Bianco and 5% Verdiso are in the mix, adding structure without adding weight.  Very nicely done. 
91 Rich Cook Oct 23, 2018

Mionetto, Veneto (Italy) “Il Ugo” NV ($12): Il Ugo is not quite wine and not quite a cocktail but it is altogether delicious, fun and very easy to drink.  Elderflower cordials and liqueurs being all the rage on the cocktail circuit these days I’ve been meaning to go buy myself a bottle of elderflower elixir but with Il Ugo I no longer have to bother; this delicate, lightly frizzante blend of crisp white wine is flavored with Elderflower blossom.  Serve this charming little tipple on the rocks or not, in a wine glass or flute, and enjoy it as an aperitif or accompaniment to a light meal (turkey or ham sandwiches?  Perfect!)  Ugo’s alcohol level is a modest 8%, but that goes up, of course, if you add a splash of gin to the glass -- and that’s not a bad thing to do if you’re in the right mood and the right setting).
90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 3, 2015

Nino Franco, Vino Spumante (Italy) Grave di Stecca Millesimato Brut 2010 ($36, Terlato Wines International): This wine is sourced from a single, limestone-rich site in which the vines are trained in cordon fashion and farmed sustainably.  The appellation authorities found it too atypical to permit it designation under the DOCG, so you’ll find reference neither to Valdobbiadene nor Prosecco on the label (despite the fact that it is sourced from a prime site and made entirely from Glera).  The authorities had a point, I suppose, as the wine is indeed highly atypical, but had I been in charge, I’d have decided in a millisecond to keep this associated with my appellation.  In any case, this is a late-released, thrillingly mineral-drive wine from stem to stern, though delicate fruit is also present in the aromas, flavors and finish.  Finished with just 7 grams per liter of sugar, this is close to as intricately complex as a Prosecco can be.  Call it what you will, but for me, this is one of the most enduringly interesting wines I’ve ever tasted from this region and grape.  And by the way, it can even hold up over time:  I also tasted the 2008, which showed only positive oxidative characters and was every bit as good as the 2010, based on different strengths.
93 Michael Franz Oct 1, 2013

Principe Corsini, Vino Spumante (Italy) Brut Rosé NV ($23):  It seems that everyone wants to get in on the rosé craze.  Here we have a top Tuscan producer, well-known for their stunning Chianti Classico, making a bubbly from Sangiovese.   It works.  This bright and fresh rosé bubbly delivers delicate hints of strawberries.   Its mouth-cleansing vigor makes it a refreshing accompaniment to diverse flavors of a mixed antipasto platter.   
90 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2018

White:

Nals Margreid, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($12, The Country Vintner): Remarkably complex and classy for an affordable Pinot Grigio, this wine shows lovely fruit with real depth of flavor but no hint of heaviness. Fresh and flashy thanks to vibrant acidity, this shows no signs of tiring and will continue to provide excellent refreshment for months to come. 88 Michael Franz Feb 14, 2006

Cerulli Spinozzi, Colli Aprutini IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Cortalto” 2016 ($15, Romano Brands):  Pecorino is, of course, a cheese.  But it turns out to also be a grape and a wine.  An attractive bite is what the cheese and the wine have in common. Cerulli Spinozzi, one of the top producers in Abruzzo, a region due east of Rome on the Adriatic, has consistently made a winsome Pecorino.  With a pleasant white pepper-like bite, their 2106 leads with a floral hint and finishes with an invigorating saline stoniness.  Lively and refreshing, it cuts through delicately fried foods and also holds its own against full-flavored pasta.  At $15 a bottle, it’s a steal.    
92 Michael Apstein Nov 19, 2019

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2015 ($31, Montcalm Wine Imports): I raved about the 2014 vintage of this wine, Lunae Bosoni’s flagship white made entirely from Vermentino.  The 2015 is similarly stunning.  Possibly the richest Vermentino I’ve ever had, it still retains lightness and vivacity with an invigorating zippy finish.  The grapes for this wine come from their best vineyards, situated on hillsides, which allow excellent drainage and good sun exposure.  It’s an ideal choice for almost any seafood -- the wine’s elegance would complement simply done sole and its persistence would even stand up to bluefish.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2016

Cantine Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2016 ($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): I have extolled the virtues of Cantine Lunae Bosoni in the past, particularly their Vermentini.  There’s no reason to stop now: Their 2016 “Etichetta Grigia” (or Gray Label) Vermentino is an exciting wine.  (They also produce a more expensive one, Etichetta Nero, a.k.a. Black Label, though it’s hard to categorize the Grey Label as a so-called “entry-level” wine.)  This is a broad-shouldered Vermentino conveying a touch of spice and creaminess to accompany its saline-tinged backbone.  It has enough power to accompany a tomato-based fish stew, but still maintains grace and elegance.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 1, 2017

Medici Ermete, Colli Scandiano e Canossa DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Vino Frizzante Secco “Daphne” 2016 ($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This is labeled Vino Frizzante Secco, which means slightly bubbly and dry.  But it’s not really dry.  It is aromatic, reminiscent of Moscato, but with more weight.  Great acidity keeps it fresh and lively, so it doesn’t come across as cloying despite the light sweetness.  The combination of fizziness, sweetness and refreshing acidity makes it a perfect choice as an aperitivo or with spicy Asian fare.
87 Michael Apstein Jul 25, 2017

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2020 ($22, Vineyard Brands):  This is a delicious, downright exciting take on Ribolla Gialla, a variety that is almost certainly indigenous to Collio and adjacent Slovenia.  It excels both as a table wine and as a base for sparklers, thanks to its excellent acidity, which it maintains even at relatively high ripeness levels.  This wine proves the point, as there’s plenty of palate weight to get this up to the medium-bodied category (at least), and yet it remains both fresh and refreshing.  The flavors recall golden apples and stone fruits, and the lifted, zesty character of the wine is enhanced by bottling with a bit of unresolved carbon dioxide (which you’ll notice texturally, as well as visually due to some tiny bubbles adhering to your glass).  Collio isn’t as famous as it deserves to be, in part from a lack of wineries that are high in quality but also large enough to distribute widely and retain restaurant placements with sufficient supply.  Robert Princic, the helmsman of this sizeable family winery, has managed to consistently achieve excellence on a relatively large scale, and, in my view, is the most important vintner in the region.        
93 Michael Franz Dec 21, 2021

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Italy) Sauvignon 2020 ($22, Vineyard Brands):  Collio remains relatively little-known in many parts of the world, but this small region tucked in next to Slovenia in the northeastern corner of the country is among Italy’s premier growing regions.  For now, that’s a judgment mostly applicable to white varieties, though the reds are also very good and evidently getting better each year (no doubt with the assistance of climate change).  Many white varieties are grown in Collio, and though this could seem like hype, all of them do very well, and all show a shared terroir signature:  Relatively ripe and rich in profile, with good varietal typicity, but energetic despite their richness thanks to well integrated acidity.  In writing that, I’ve essentially pre-empted my tasting note, but all of that verbiage applies.  The aromas and flavors show balanced ripeness that expresses itself in both green, herbal notes as well as subtle tropical suggestions, making for a balanced, layered, satisfying rendering of Sauvignon Blanc (though the variety is just called “Sauvignon” in Italy’s northeast, which suffices just fine).        
92 Michael Franz Dec 21, 2021

Marco Felluga, Collio (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Mongris” 2014 ($17): This delightful wine makes a quiet entrance, subtly soft and silky for a moment before bursting into an explosion of concentrated pear, spice and fresh floral characteristics.  On the finish, it unwinds gradually with elegance and persistence.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 25, 2016

Venica, Collio (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013 ($22, The Country Vintner): Has winter got you down?  Have your friends all deserted you for sunny, coastal climes?  Seems to me you’ve got two options: seek therapy or open a bottle of this delicious Pinot Grigio.  It’s the color of sunbeams and is so beautifully balanced with notes of pear and apple and hints of something delicate and floral. Rich and complex, almost fleshy, this is no ordinary Pinot Grigio.  It will surely brighten your day.
92 Marguerite Thomas Feb 10, 2015

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020 ($22, Vineyard Brands):  It won’t be easy to get consumers in the USA to pony up $22 for Pinot Grigio, for the simple reason that expectations have been pounded down by years of thin, flavorless renditions that have achieved commercial success for no discernable reason other than difference from over-oaked Chardonnay.  That’s the bad news.  The good news is that this is a mind-changer of a Pinot Grigio, thanks to the skill of Robert Princic and the growing conditions in Collio, which runs neck-and-neck with Alto Adige for the title of Italy’s finest source for white wines.  This is truly medium-bodied, but thanks to concentration rather than excessive ripeness or residual sugar — two attributes that make this variety (under the name of Pinot Gris) dramatic in Alsace but also tiring to drink.  Subtle stone fruit aromas and flavors are accented with a wisp of the musky undertone characteristic of fine renditions of this variety, and the wine’s weight is very effectively lifted by acidity that is zesty but never sour.  Very well done, and if my score is off at all, I missed on the low side.        
91 Michael Franz Dec 21, 2021

Zuani, Collio (Italy) “Vigne” 2011 ($24, Martin Scott): You are with friends.  You sip, talk, nibble, sip again.  Suddenly your focus is drawn to the slow-motion reel of gustatory pleasure that’s expanding across your senses as this charming Italian white wine slips silkily down your throat.  A blend of the native Northern Italian Friuliano grape with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio, this irresistible elixir is infused with lush peach and refreshing apple flavors. 90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 12, 2013

Marco Felluga, Collio Bianco DOC (Italy) “Molamatta” 2015 ($26, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  A bright blend of Pinot Bianco, Tocai Friulano and Ribolla Gialla that has a tempered edge thanks to six months on the lees and extended time in the bottle prior to release.  Pear and yellow apple are joined by a little tropical fruit on a creamy mouthfeel and finish with a good amount of push.  Seafood or mixed appetizers with work well here.  
90 Rich Cook Nov 19, 2019

Gradis’Ciutta, Collio DOC (Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2018 ($24, Vineyard Brands):  The grape variety Ribolla Gialla is native to the Italian wine region of Collio in northeastern Italy, sharing a border with Slovenia’s wine region, Goriska Brda.  The vintners in the area admit the possibility that some of their vines might be on the other side of the border.  I was introduced to this region several years ago and fell in love with their wines, especially those made of Ribolla Gialla.  This one comes from the Princic family who had been growing grapes to sell to local wineries until their son, Robert finished studies in Oenology and Viticulture in 1997 and decided to make wine.  In 2018 those grapes were certified organic.  This wine of the 2018 vintage is very fresh and lively with delicate lemon zest aromas and dry citrus and green apple flavors that are round in the mouth.  Citrusy acidity adds brightness to the flavors, making the wine a suitable companion for a tuna salad or Vietnamese salad rolls.    
94 Rebecca Murphy Jan 31, 2023

Ai Galli, Delle Venezie DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019 ($12):   Ai Galli also shows their talents with a bargain-priced “entry-level,” as they call it, Pinot Grigio.  Fresh and floral wine, it has a captivating delicacy.  This clean crisp Pinot Grigio finishes with a welcoming hint of bitterness.  And look at the price.  Most Pinot Grigio bottlings at this price level are vapid.  Ai Galli’s is not.  Alberto Piccolo, spokesperson for Ai Galli, told me via Zoom® that he felt it was essential to avoid skin contact entirely during fermentation because the grapes’ skins are greyish in color — hence, the Grigio or Gris, in French — and could impart color to the wine.       
88 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2021

Caposaldo, Delle Venezie IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015 ($11, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Pinot Grigio at its best delivers a crisp, easy drinking wine that works well as a cocktail as well as having enough acidity to keep pace with some appetizers.  All points covered here, with lemon, flowers, lime and a light spice touch on the nose, and crisp acidity converting those elements to flavors with a zesty feel and a long finish. Couple that with a great price and you've got a winner.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
93 Rich Cook Jan 19, 2016

Tenutae Lageder, Dolomites (Italy) Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio "Beta-Delta" 2009 ($20, Dalla Terra):  This proprietary 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio comes from a vineyard that is farmed according to biodynamic methods of viticulture. The “BD” designation stands for the Greek words Bios and Dinamikos, “an organic farming method that is based on the principles of anthroposophy.”  The blend highlights the good qualities of both varieties with a brilliant light gold color, attractive stoned fruit and dried flower aromas, bright fruit flavors like ripe nectarines, structure, 12.8% alcohol and good length through the finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 17, 2010

Terra Alpina by Alois Lageder, Dolomiti (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2018 ($16):  This delicate white from northern Italy is fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees, lending superb aromatics and a fine texture on the palate.  Showing notes of ripe apple and stone fruits, this wine has fine structure and exquisite balance.  Serve it with tapas, grilled seafood or simply serve as a crisp, refreshing aperitif.    
90 Robert Whitley Oct 29, 2019

Alois Lageder, Dolomiti (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2008 ($15, Dalla Terra): Lageder is one of the leading advocates of biodynamic grape growing, striving for Demeter certification for all his vineyards in northern Italy.  Most of the grapes for this juicy Pinot Bianco (a.k.a. Pinot Blanc) are from the Trentino area.  Stainless steel fermented with a short period of maturation on the fine lees, the wine shows bright floral-citrus aromas and flavors, supported by brisk acidity.  The nicely textured flavors feature citrus peel and green apples and the wine finishes, at a modest 12% alcohol, with bright fruit.  This is a great wine for any occasion but especially for summer meals. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 2, 2009

Alois Lageder, Dolomiti (Italy) Chardonnay/ Pinot Grigio “Beta Delta” 2007 ($23, Dalla Terra): Lageder is one of the leading advocates of biodynamic grape growing, striving for Demeter certification for all his vineyards in northern Italy.  This tasty blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio is made from certified grapes that are farmed according to biodynamic (Beta Delta) methods.  The nose is a little shy, shows citrus peel and subtle tropical fruit aromas.  The flavors are crisp and fruity and nicely modulated with no over-ripeness.  The finish, at 12.5% alcohol, is clean and lasting. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 16, 2009

Bellavista, Franciacorta (Italy) Brut "Gran Cuvée" 2002 ($57, Empson): The world includes only a handful of producers outside of Champagne that can rival the sparkling wines of Bellavista.  All of the wines are clean but full of character, and you should never pass up an opportunity to taste any of them, including the regular 'Cuvée Brut' or the 'Gran Cuvée Satèn.'  However, if you are (not unreasonably, given this price) inclined to buy only one wine to see what this outfit can do, this is the bottle.  Dry and hardly obvious in its fruit but nevertheless very flavorful, it features complex aromas and flavors with all sorts of little nuances that change from moment to moment as the wine warms and the effervescence calms in the glass.  I suspect that this would get even more interesting with another year or two under cork, but I can't imagine that I'll ever be able to keep my hands off of a bottle long enough to confirm that. 92 Michael Franz Dec 12, 2006

Bellavista, Franciacorta (Italy) "Gran Cuvée Pas Operé" 1999 ($63, Empson):

This very interesting wine shows interesting subtleties at every turn.  The color is deep straw and the aromas show notes of green apples, toasted bread, subtle dried herbs and flowers, and several other notes that presented themselves repeatedly during a long, reflective tasting but proved elusive for me in terms of descriptors.  The mousse is very delicate and finely wrought, and you'll find a new nuance of aroma or flavor every time you take a dip into this superb sparkler.

Torre Rosazza, Friuli Colli Orientali (Italy) Friulano 2017 ($20, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Sometimes vintages make virtually no difference.  I tasted and reviewed (and praised) the 2016 rendition of this wine in the spring.  The 2017 is now available, and it is every bit as exciting.  Just like the 2016, what proves most compelling about it is the plethora of spicy secondary flavors that complement the fruit and add both complexity and intrigue.  One thing to note:  the wine has plenty of taut acidity, so there is no need to worry if you have some of the 2016.  It’s drinking as beautifully as this one. 
92 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2018

Torre Rosazza, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Italy) Friulano 2016 ($20, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Unlike Pinot Grigio, the much more popular wine from Friuli in northeast Italy, Friulano almost never tastes boring and, consequently, rarely disappoints.  Why it is not more popular outside its homeland seems baffling.  One sip of this wine, however, may well convert you.  There are fruit flavors that echo citrus as well as apples and pears, but what proves most exciting are the spice-like secondary flavors.  They linger through an impressively long finish, and compel you to want another sip ... and then another and yet another. 92 Paul Lukacs Apr 24, 2018

Terlato Vineyards, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020 ($28, Terlato Wines):  Wine importer Anthony Terlato was credited with introducing Pinot Grigio wines to the U.S.  The Pinot Grigio grape (also known as Pinot Gris) is a pink mutation of Pinot Noir.  This one from the vineyards he developed northeastern Italy is a perfect example of the wine’s appeal.  Peach, pear, and lemon flavors are layered with nutty and floral notes.  It is intense and complex in the mouth with crisp acidity, which will pair well with a pasta with a creamy sauce or chicken piccatta.      
91 Rebecca Murphy Feb 7, 2023

Vie di Romans, Friuli Isonzo (Italy) Pinot Grigio "Dessimis" 2014 ($30, Vias Imports Ltd.):  Richer than most Italian Pinot Grigios, with seductive aromas of cream, lemon, and custard.  Though very inviting in the bouquet, it also displays exciting verve and energy on the palate. 
93 Paul Lukacs Apr 17, 2018

Alois Lageder, IGT Vignetti delle Dolomiti (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013 ($16, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Alois Lageder, one of the Alto Adige’s greatest producers, makes a host of stunning single vineyard wines.  They also make lower priced wines, like this one, from grapes grown in a broader area that still transmit the character of the variety and the region.  This is a solid Pinto Grigio that delivers a delicate fruitiness supported by an invigorating freshness.  It reminds us why Pinot Grigio has become such a popular varietal.  This one’s a great choice for a light pasta dish or just as a way to welcome guests.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2014

Riunite, Italy (Italy) Peach Moscato NV ($6, Banfi Vintners):   The nose on the blend of fruit and wine is full throttle ripe peach, which may put you off a bit if you’re expecting a wine experience.  Don’t stop there though, because a very pleasant wine experience is coming when you taste it.  It’s peachy, as advertised, but there’s lively acidity to balance the fruit and the expected Moscato sugar, and the finish is clean and fresh.  Yes, I went in for another sip and finished the glass -- so will you!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
91 Rich Cook Apr 9, 2019

Musaragno, Lison Pramaggiore (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($11, Siema): It is not easy to find Pinot Grigio in this price category that has any flavor or character, and it is harder still to find ones that offer those qualities while also retaining freshness beyond 15 or 16 months of age after the harvest. However, this bottling shows unusually expressive aromatics and flavor, with good depth and length but also an enduringly crisp finish. Restaurants looking for something at this price to tide them over until 2005s are available would be well advised to give this a taste. 86 Michael Franz Jan 24, 2006

Alessandro di Camporeale, Monreale DOC (Italy) Catarratto Vigna di Mandranova 2020 ($19):  New discoveries, interesting wines from place you’ve — or at least I’ve — never heard of, is one of the things I love about Italian wines.  Here is yet another DOC I am unfamiliar with.  You too could be excused if you are unfamiliar with Monreale, a tiny DOC comprising about 70 acres just west of Palermo.  That will change now that I’ve been introduced to this wine.  Catarratto, often described as a workhorse of Sicilian wine because it is the most widely planted grape on that island, does not have a grand reputation.  Alessandro di Camporeale’s is an exception to the rule. Both floral and crisp, with stone fruit nuances, it is reminiscent of a white wine from the Rhône with bracing acidity. With good weight, it has plenty of fruit without being heavy or ponderous because of its abundant energy.  A delectable bit of bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal.   
92 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2023

Cupcake Vineyards, Moscato d’Asti DOCG (Italy) 2015 ($15): Cupcake’s 2015 Moscato d’Asti shows intense white flower on the nose, with stone fruits and melon on the palate and just enough sweetness to balance the acidity. Serve this wine with fruit tarts, cakes and cookies. A Platinum award-winner at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition.
92 Robert Whitley Sep 27, 2016

Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Italy) “Ben Ryè” 2015 ($35):  Baldo Palermo, a representative of Donnafugata, described the island of Pantelleria as, “A volcanic rock jutting from the sea,” where the major activity is “listening to the wind.”  Hence it’s appropriate that this wine is called Ben Ryè, which means son of the wind.  The vines are trained in low, bush-like fashion to resist the wind.  Made from Muscat of Alexandria (a.k.a. Zibibbo) grapes, which are dried in the sun, the wine belies the reputation of that Muscat sub-variety as being coarse.  The 2015 Ben Ryè, like its predecessors, is as clean and elegant as you could imagine.   The harvest typically extends over four to five weeks.  Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s best producers, makes the wine by adding grapes that have been dried since the beginning of the harvest to freshly picked ones before fermentation.  This method requires about 4 kilos of grapes to make a liter of wine.  The result is a wine redolent of figs and honey with vigorous mouth-cleansing acidity that prevents it from being cloying or tiring.  There’s a hint of apricot-like skin texture from tannins leached from the dried grapes. This is a splendid way to end a meal, and the half bottle (375 ml) in which it is sold will serve six easily.  Your guests will be very happy.  So will you. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 25, 2017

La Valentina, Pecorino Colline Pescaresi IGT (Italy) 2017 ($16):  Though this obscure Italian white-grape variety is fermented in stainless steel tanks, it offers a distinct note of nuts and spice along with aromas of peach and apple.  Fresh and clean on the palate, it finishes with a lingering spice note.  Outstanding for the price. 
90 Robert Whitley Jan 29, 2019

Beando, Provincia di Pavia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2014 ($10, Alma Wines): How to choose among the veritable ocean of Pinot Grigio available today?  For me, the best examples are from Northern Italy, they're dry and crisp, they're long on fruit and zesty acidity, and they're reasonably priced. This bottle hits every marker, delivering fresh lemon, lime, stone minerality and a lively, palate cleansing lemon zest finish.  Al fresco dining seems a must here, with a cold pasta al limone as a foil.
88 Rich Cook Jul 14, 2015

Tenimenti Leone, Roma DOC (Italy) “Capoccia” Bianco 2021 ($28, Banville Wine Merchants):  Tenimenti Leone makes Italian wines with a new world twist.  This white blend, for instance, utilizes 10% Chardonnay and new French oak to elevate the wine — both typically newer world choices.  The wine’s flavor profile also shows the new world style with a lightly creamy body and fresh lemon, red apple, white blossom, and pear notes.  Ultimately, this is a delicious wine that will be approachable to a wide range of consumers.         
89 Vince Simmon Feb 28, 2023

Celli, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) "I Croppi" 2019 ($20):  The Albana grape is uniquely suited to the Bertinoro subregion of Romagna where Celli is located thanks to the calcium rich soil, locally known as spungone, a vestige of its underwater location 3.5 million years ago.  Celli’s 2019 I Croppi is outstanding.  A substantial wine, it conveys subtle nutty and stone fruit character, similar to a white wine from France’s Rhône Valley, but with vibrant and penetrating acidity.  You feel the underlying mineral component—a captivating salinity — and an ever so slight and welcoming bitter tannic component that results from a short period of skin contact during fermentation.  It’s an elegant and balanced “orange wine” without emphasis on the “orange.”  (Orange wines are white wines fermented like red wines, that is, with extended skin contact.  Some can be unbalanced and overpowering.)  Cutting and clean, Celli’s I Croppi’s power and verve make it an excellent choice for those otherwise hard-to-match tomato-based or other highly-flavored seafood dishes.  But frankly, the wine is so satisfying, I’d be tempted to drink it with most anything.      
95 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2021

Giovanna Madonia, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) “Neblina” 2014 ($19): This category of wine grabbed headlines in 1987, more because of surprise than stature, when it was awarded Italy’s first DOCG for a white wine.  Known then as Albana di Romagna, there was a collective bewilderment since many other white wine DOCs seemed more appropriate for elevation to Italy’s highest level of classification.  Just having tasted two-dozen Romagna Albana Secco, I see the wisdom of the Italian wine authorities -- this is an appealing and unique category of white wine.  This one is what so many “orange” wines aspire to.  Pale yellow, it conveys real substance and texture, even a hint of tangerine skin, buttressed by bright and racy acidity.  Try it with a hefty seafood stew.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2017

Tormaresca, Salento (Italy) Fiano “Roycello” 2011 ($22, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): It’s always satisfying to find a white wine that is made from a less-known grape such as Fiano. Roycello, which comes to us from the tip of the Italian boot in Puglia, is a mellifluous medium-bodied blonde wine with plenty of flavor and aroma, plus just enough tartness to make it a congenial wine for food.
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 16, 2013

Inama, Soave Classico (Italy) 2014 ($14, Dalla Terra/ Inama USA): Crisp and refreshing, with autumnal fruit flavors and echoes of steel or minerals in the finish, this is a wine to sip in order to counteract summer heat and humidity.  Its firm acidic backbone gives it the structure that in turn provides satisfaction. 90 Paul Lukacs Jun 21, 2016

Pieropan, Soave Classico (Italy) 2005 ($19, Empson): An awful lot of Soave tastes dull and watery.  This wine, however, shines.  A blend of roughly 85% Garganega and 15% Trebbiano di Soave, it offers an enticing bouquet redolent of spring flowers, summer fruits, and nuts, followed by expressive flavors and a finish marked by an appealing bitter tinge.  A delicious warm weather choice! 90 Paul Lukacs May 8, 2007

Bolla, Soave Classico (Italy) 2012 ($9, Banfi): Bolla introduced a generation of Americans to the delights of the white wine from Italy’s Soave region in the 1960s and 70s.  But the company and brand was sold and the quality slipped.  In 2009, Bolla was acquired by a large Italian wine company, Gruppo Italiani Vini, and Banfi (the American company whose stunningly good Brunello di Montalcino was, in large measure, responsible for the explosion in popularity of that denomination).  Judging from the last three vintages, including the currently available 2012, Bolla Soave is back in top form and ready to charm another generation. The Classico designation means the grapes, exclusively Garganega, came from the heart of the denomination, which explains, in part, the wine’s appeal.  It’s bright and fresh, with an alluring roundness that allows you to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitif.  But good density means it stands up to simply broiled or grilled fish.  At less than $10 a bottle, it’s an extraordinary value.  Stock up.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Pieropan, Soave Classico DOC (Verona, Italy) 2014 ($20): This is what Soave should be -- rich and crisp, with melon, lemon and wet stone complexity and real finishing length.  This works with food or without.  Bravo!  I tasted this last October, and I'm adding a couple of points after an additional six months in the bottle. Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Mar 29, 2016

Lageder, Terra Alpina (Italy) Pinot Grigio "Riff" 2012 ($12, Dalla Terra): Unlike the usual chill-and-swill Pinot Grigio, Lageder’s inspires more mindful enjoyment.  Expressive without being ostentatious, delicately floral, with whispers of citrus and minerality, this wine is compact without being stingy.  Charming as an aperitif, it will transition to the lunch or dinner table to accompany subtly seasoned seafood, chicken and pasta dishes.
91 Marguerite Thomas Mar 4, 2014

La-Vis, Trentino (Italy) Pinot Grigio "Simboli" 2013 ($13, Opici): This is what Pinot Grigio should taste like -- but seldom does.  Not only is La Vis light and refreshing, it also delivers a pulsing thrum of fruitiness that satisfies the taste buds without overwhelming them and is followed by a perfectly balanced and clean flare of acidity.
91 Marguerite Thomas Feb 3, 2015

Maso Canali, Trentino (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($15, Maso Canali): Distributed widely by Gallo and superior in quality to almost every Pinot Grigio sold in North America regardless of price, this wine is a potential commercial powerhouse. Complete and convincing in every respect, it features lovely apple fruit with nice mineral accents and great texture with interplay between ripe roundness and driving acidity. Surprisingly persistent on the finish, this is a first class drink and a very versatile partner for light foods. 91 Michael Franz Feb 14, 2006

Bollini, Trentino (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($14, Kobrand): This is on the rich, ripe, musky and sweet side for Pinot Grigio, and thus it won't meet everyone's expectations. Yet, the converse of that is also true: this has a lot more substance and character and flavor impact than most Pinot Grigios, and the ripe, sweet notes do not detract from the wine's refreshment value as a result of the presence of firm acidity. Whereas most Pinot Grigio is, frankly, innocuous, this is a serious wine. 88 Michael Franz Jan 24, 2006

Scaia, Trevenezie IGT (Italy) Garganega - Chardonnay 2022 ($20, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The folks at Tenuta Sant'Antonio created the Scaia name to allow them to be creative.  Instead of following the traditional appellation rules, they can play around making a wine that they design, like this carefully crafted non-traditional blend of 55% Garganega with 45% Chardonnay.  It has a rich yellow color with hints of gold, and aromas and flavors of citrus and green apple with a silky texture in the mouth.  That silkiness comes from the weekly stirring of the lees, the expired fermentation yeasts, and an hour of cold maceration that lowers the total acidity.  They have created a plush wine with a rich and round texture, supported by vibrant acidity.  Another non-traditional touch is the glass closure called Vinolok, instead of a cork.        
93 Rebecca Murphy Apr 2, 2024

Albino Armani, Valdadige (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Corvara 1607” 2009 ($20, Underdog Wine Merchants):  Unlike much northern Italian Pinot Grigio, this wine is packed full of flavor.  Dry and very clean, it tastes of citrus and crisp apple fruit, with a grassy, almost hay-like undertone, and finishes very long.  Light-bodied, it should pair well with shellfish and simply prepared seafood dishes.
90 Paul Lukacs Dec 28, 2010

Chloe, Valdadige (Trentino – Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2014 ($15, The Wine Group): While one doesn’t look to Pinot Grigio for complex aroma and flavor, this offering from Chloe does have some bright pear and melon nuances.  With its steely texture and vibrant acidity it’s a wine to enjoy during the dog days of summer.
89 Marguerite Thomas Jun 14, 2016

Les Crêtes, Valle D’Aosta (Italy) Petite Arvine 2022 ($34, Monsièur Touton Selection):  Located Northwest of Piedmont, Valle D’Aosta is Italy’s smallest region with fewer than 2,000 acres spanning just over a dozen towns along the Dora Baltea River.  The valley’s terraces date back to Roman times with vineyards as high as 4,000 feet of altitude.  While Petite Arvine is an indigenous grape to neighboring Switzerland, Les Crêtes is one of the few producers using Petite Arvine in Valle D’Aosta.  The nose is striking, with perfectly ripe notes of stone fruit, melon, yellow apple, juicy peach, acacia, and honeysuckle.  The wine’s structure is balanced between bright acidity and the enriching effects of aging on the spent yeast lees.  Flavors recalling, cream, honeysuckle, stone fruits, honeydew melons, bread dough, and grapefruit are layered and delicious.  My industry friends rave about Les Crêtes, and it is easy to see why once it’s in your glass.         
96 Vince Simmon Oct 24, 2023

Château Feuillet, Valle d’Aosta (Aosta, Italy) Petite Arvine 2017 ($30, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):  Jan Novak, the wine director at Il Capriccio, a wonderful Italian restaurant in Waltham, just west of Boston, suggested this wine, which was unknown to me.  Since she has probably forgotten more about Italian wine than I know, I agreed immediately.  And was very glad.  It was not some innocuous white wine.  Rather, it conveyed depth, a saline-like mineral quality, all amplified by its bright finish.  It turns out that Petite Arvine, is a rare grape, planted mostly in the Valais part of Switzerland.  A smattering of vines found their way to Italy’s Aosta Valley.  Leave it to Kermit Lynch to find it and bring it to these shores. If you run across it, don’t hesitate.  
94 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2019

Grosjean, Vallée d’Aoste (Italy) Petite Arvine “Vigne Rovettaz” 2015 ($23, Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchants):  Petite Arvine is an Alpine grape variety native to the Valais region of Switzerland.  Back in the 1970s, it was introduced to the Valée d’Aosta over the mountains in Italy.  Tasting this wine was my first experience with it in Italian garb, and I found it riveting.  The wine is crisp and, even at nearly three years of age, very fresh.  It has a floral bouquet, with fruit flavors on the palate that echo apples, citrus, and perhaps even quince.  Its finish seems stony, reflecting a streak of minerality that extends from sip to swallow.  Especially if you are looking for something different, seek it out. 
92 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2018

Tenuta Sant ‘Anna, Venezia (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015 ($12, Montcalm): An outstanding Pinot Grigio, this is full-bodied and at the same time wonderfully fresh and zesty.  With fresh pear and even hints of pineapple in the aroma and on the palate, it is interesting enough to serve as an aperitif, but it is also a tasty wine with foods such as seafood pasta or risotto, and just about any dish that includes chicken breasts.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jul 18, 2017

Garofoli, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Italy) 'Podium' 2015 ($25, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Brian Larky, the genius behind Dalla Terra Winery Direct (an import company specializing in Italian wines), has a knack for finding hidden gems where most are least likely to look.  Verdicchio, a white wine from southern Italy that is often held in low esteem, can be very good when it has been cultivated properly and given a bit of TLC in the cellar.  Leave it to Larky to find a stunning Verdicchio.  The 2015 Podium is beautifully balanced, shows notes of citrus and honeysuckle, and has serious length in the mouth and persistence of flavor.
94 Robert Whitley Jul 24, 2018

Bucci, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Italy) 2004 ($21, Empson): You may not find it easy to plunk down $21 for a Verdicchio, but once you get this baby into your glass, I can promise that you1ll not suffer a second of buyer's remorse. It is uncommonly rich, with very deep and lasting flavors, yet is remains remarkably nimble and crisp through a very long finish. If there is a more substantial and serious Verdicchio available, I'm unaware of it, and yet this also delivers all the freshness and fun that I associate with this grape. 89 Michael Franz Feb 28, 2006

Tavignano, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Italy) 2004 ($11, Bacchus Importers): If you think you need to wait for 2005 renditions of Verdicchio to get the signature crackly crispness of this wine, think again. This bottling shows lovely fruit with expressive notes of citrus fruits and snappy green apples, along with interesting mineral accents. Fresh and crisp, this is a bottled case of spring fever. 88 Michael Franz Jan 17, 2006

Argiolas, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Italy) “Costamolino" 2020 ($15, Winebow):  Vermentino is a relatively obscure, but deliciously aromatic and flavorful grape variety that yields especially fine wines on the island of Sardinia.  The grapes for the Argiolas 2020 Costamolino Vermentino were grown on the southern part of the island and fermented at a cool temperature to enhance the fruit character of the wine.  It has a bouquet of peach, lime and lemon fruits with hints of linden flower and marjoram.  On the palate, it shows rich peach and citrus fruits underlain by a full texture and elements of herbs and lime zest.  It’s a perfect choice for Provençal seafood recipes or other flavorful Mediterranean dishes.          
90 Wayne Belding Sep 28, 2021

Foradori, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy) Manzoni Bianco “Fontanasanta" 2017 ($38, Louis Dressner Selections):  Manzoni Bianco is one of Italy’s botanical “crosses," in this case a cross of Riesling and Chardonnay, made by Luigi Manzoni in the 1920s and 30s, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014).  Though this grape is difficult to grow, some producers, thankfully, persevere with it.  Foradori’s is simply captivating.  One whiff and the initial taste pulls you in because its spicy salinity is deliciously refreshing.  Not monotonous, it delivers floral aromas and a white pepper-like bite.  Though this wine will cut through most any food, it is not aggressive -- just enlivening.   
94 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2019

Terra Alpina by Alois Lageder, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2018 ($16):  Alois Lageder, who produces this wine, is one of the most respected winemakers in northern Italy and an icon in Alto Adige.  His signature is purity and freshness and this Pinot Grigio reflects Lageder’s passion on both counts.  With flinty minerality, a gentle beam of fresh citrus and exquisite balance, it’s an extraordinary wine for the price and a beautiful example of the potential of Pinot Grigio to excite and titillate.   
90 Robert Whitley Oct 15, 2019

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Abruzzo:

Red:

Atomos, Abruzzo (Italy) Red Wine 2018 ($300):  Once in a while a mystery bottle crosses my desk -- one that comes with little or no provenance, technical data or hints beyond what appears on the bottle itself, leaving me to render an opinion lacking the context that I usually like to include in a review.  So, away we go with just the following info from the bottle:  Red Wine, Product of Italy, 2018 vintage, 14.5% alcohol.  On the cork, the words “100% Manual Destemming” appear.   My tasting note:  a boldly styled red, showing dark cherry fruit, pepper, faint dried herbs and potent brown spices in both aroma and flavor long spicy finish. With supple, age-worthy structure, it comes off as impressive as its packaging, which includes a stylized bag around a shapely 1 liter bottle.  A little research online reveals the source region as Abruzzo, and a retail price north of $300.  It’s an impressive gift of a very nice wine if you roll in the luxury marketplace.     
95 Rich Cook Jan 5, 2021

Masciarelli, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC (Italy) “Villa Gemma” 2022 ($24):  Cerasuolo literally means “cherry red,” and the DOC designation separates this Rosé style from the dark hued reds of Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC.  Both require 85% Montepulciano, and this offering is 100%, and spent three months on lees before bottling.  It is quite pigmented (think Tavel) as you would expect from the grape, and it is a pleasure to swirl and sniff for its fresh tart cherry and soft herb notes.  These translate brightly on the palate with a nice push of fruit in the finish.  A little chill is a good play here.  Serve with just about any weather, from fall and winter feasts to simple summer fare.       
91 Rich Cook Dec 19, 2023

Cerulli Spinozzi, Colli Aprutini IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Cortalto” 2013 ($13, Banfi Vintners): It’s not just a cheese.  Pecorino (from “pecora,” the word for sheep in Italian) is also a grape native to Abruzzo and Marche, regions on the Eastern side of the Italian peninsula.  Enrico Cerulli Irelli, family proprietor of Cerulli Spinozzi, speculates that the grape got its name because sheep grazing on adjacent pastures would nibble at the vines.  Judging from this wine, it’s likely to become as popular as the cheese.  Dry and stony, it’s quite mineraly and has real depth.  The lack of wood aging allows its fresh and invigorating character to shine.  A refreshing lime-acid vibrancy adds to its appeal.  It’s a great choice for seafood.  Smart sheep.
91 Michael Apstein Jun 10, 2014

Cerulli Spinozzi, Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Torre Migliori” 2013 ($18, Romano Brands):  One of the great things about wines from Italy is how many distinctive ones, like this one, fly under the radar.  Abruzzo does not have the name recognition of Tuscany nor does the DOCG of Colline Teramane ring any bells, which explains why this wine’s price doesn’t come close to recognizing its quality. Teramane Colline is Aburzzo’s sole DOCG, and an area where the Montepulciano grape reaches its fullest expression.  Cerulli Spinozzi, one the leaders in the region, consistently makes a brilliant example.  The 2013, a mid-weight to robust wine, combines dark fruitiness with a hint of tar and those elusive, but captivating, not-just-fruit flavors.  The tannins are fine and unobtrusive, making perfect to drink now with hearty autumnal fare.  
93 Michael Apstein Dec 10, 2019

Masciarelli, Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Marina Cvetic Iskra” 2015 ($35, Vintus):  Colline Teramane is the sole DOCG (Italy’s highest wine category) in Abruzzo, and shows the heights the Montepulciano grape can achieve when planted in the right place by the right people.  This one, unsurprisingly, since it comes from Mascareilli, one of the region’s top producers, is stunning.  Its suave texture distinguishes it from wines labeled DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, confirming the stature of the DOCG.  It has good power, but its suaveness is what holds your attention.  Great acidity keeps it fresh.  Lovely to drink now, this refined wine is best for a more refined meal.        
93 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020

Farnese, Montelpuciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) “Cassale Vecchio” 2006 ($18, Empson): Is any Italian appellation offering better value these days than Montelpuciano d'Abruzzo?  Only a few years ago, the category was dominated by cheap jug wines.  Today, while the jugs haven't gone away, the excitement is all with overachieving wineries producing compelling, cork-finished wines that outperform their competitors.  Here is a case in point.  The wine is supple and rich, filled with jammy fruit, with subtle hints of herbs, licorice, and cocoa.  Fully ready to drink, it's a wine that savvy restaurateurs should rush out to buy.  Though young, it offers all sorts of excitement right now. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 11, 2008

Farnese, Montelpulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2010 ($9, Empson USA):  What a value!  Juicy and mouth-filling, this young, unoaked red is full of plum and cherry fruit flavors with echoes of anise and spice to add intrigue.  Very well balanced, it offers sumptuous pleasure at a ridiculously low price.  I can’t imagine a better red wine for end of summer entertaining. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 16, 2011

Farnese, Montelulciano d’Abruzzo (Italy) "Fantini" 2012 ($12): Straightforwardly delicious but also showing some complexity, this features exuberant fruit recalling dark berries and black plums.  Although the wine is abundantly endowed with fruit and flavor, there’s plenty of acidity to lend balance and keep this seeming fresh.  Pair with white meats or pasta dishes.
88 Michael Franz Mar 4, 2014

Casale Vecchio, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2007 ($19, Empson): The region of Abruzzo--especially its northern portion--is getting ever more serious about turning out high-end wines, and this bottling is a fine case in point.  Dark and dense and packed with flavor, it is a powerful wine that will really require a couple of years of ageing to fully unwind and show all of the complexities that are now showing only in nascent form.  Intense, concentrated notes of dark cherries and blackberries have impressive drive and duration on the palate, and the finish is structured with lots of acidity and tannin.  Hold this for a couple of years and pair with a grilled veal chop. 90 Michael Franz Feb 24, 2008

Il Feuduccio di S. Maria d’Orni, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Italy) 2001 ($28, Empson): This delicious current release from 2001 offers lovely primary fruit recalling dark berries and dried black cherries, but also some very interesting secondary notes from bottle ageing that include leather, wild mushrooms and damp earth.  Medium-bodied and beautifully balanced, this is earthy but not dirty, and fresh but not obvious, making it promisingly versatile for many foods and applications. 89 Michael Franz Dec 19, 2006

Barone Cornacchia, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2006 ($18, Domenico Valentino Selection): A robust red, this Montepulciano delivers spice and earthy flavors that give it an attractive rustic character.  Clean, with none of the 'horsey' elements that Montepulciano sometimes offers, it is not a before dinner sipping wine, but goes well now with sauces replete with tomatoes, olives or eggplant. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 24, 2009

Caldora, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Italy) 2020 ($15, Gonzalez Byass USA):  When you run across a wine at this price that’s this enjoyable, it makes you smile.  This bright and juicy mid-weight wine has an engaging mix of red fruits accented by a hint of spice.  Mild tannins allow immediate enjoyment. In a word or two, it has a charming rusticity.  It’s perfect for pizza or a take-out rotisserie chicken.      
88 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2023

Cantina Zaccagnini, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) “Tralcetto” 2011 ($15, Viva Vino Import): Buying Montepulciano d’Abbruzzo can be tricky because the range of quality is vast, from a rough and tumble wine to one with surprising class. Cantina Zaccagnini’s Tralcetto falls into the latter category.  Spicy and red fruity notes predominate in this nicely concentrated mid-weight red wine. Zaccagnini’s version provides lively acidity and vibrancy while avoiding an under ripe sour edge.  Overall this uncomplicated wine is an excellent value and an obvious choice for weekday pasta dishes.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 31, 2013

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) “Spiano” 2015 ($15, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Here is a wine that provides more enjoyment than the price suggests.  Wines, especially those made from the Montepulciano grape and especially from Abruzzo, the region east of Rome on the Adriatic coast, have little or no prestige, which keeps their prices depressed.  But a talented producer, such as Illuminati, transforms what could be a rough and tumble wine into one with charming rusticity, such as this one.  Not thin and anemic, Illuminati’s Spiano has good concentration, juicy fruit and that hint of rustic charm.  It’s a perfect choice for penne with a sausage-enriched tomato sauce. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2017

Talamonti, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) "Moda" 2004 ($10): Talamonti has been able to tame the Montepulciano grape, which has a reputation for producing some coarse wines.  This thick and concentrated wine is remarkably polished with supple tannins.  It's amazing how the Italians extract so much flavor but manage to keep the alcohol at reasonable--in this case 13%--levels. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2007

Caldora, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2005 ($10, Vin Divino): Very nicely balanced and very broadly useful, this wine shows interesting fruit notes suggesting both fresh and dried cherries (of both the red and bing varieties).  Bright and fresh as befits an Italian wine but still generously ripe, it hits just the right balance point between structure and softness to permit stand-alone sipping or pleasing paring with a wide range of moderately robust foods. 87 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2007

Citra, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2007 ($6, Palm Bay Imports): You read the price correctly--a single digit small enough to allow a magnum (1.5 L) to still be priced under $10.  Most wines at this price are hard to recommend.  Not this one.  Abruzzo, the region recently devastated by earthquakes, is dominated by wine cooperatives making wines of highly variable quality, so you need to pick and choose wisely.  You can safely choose this one.  Simple, juicy fruit flavors, a touch of gamey elements are balanced by just the right amount of acidity.  With surprising intensity and mild tannins, it's an excellent everyday wine. 86 Michael Apstein Apr 7, 2009

La Valentina, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2005 ($13, Dalla Terra): Very pleasant if a little chunky, this wine satisfies with very nice dark cherry fruit in a medium-bodied mode.  The fruit is quite ripe but draws balance and definition from some gutsy tannins.  Great for burgers or simple pasta dishes. 84 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2008

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane (Abruzzo, Italy) “Pieluni” Riserva 2010 ($70, Montcalm Wine Imports): This wine dispels any notion that truly great wines are not made in Abruzzo from the Montepulciano grape.  Yes, the nomenclature is confusing: Montepulciano, the grape, has nothing to do with Montepulciano the village in Tuscany known for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which uses the Sangiovese grape.  Colline Teramane is Abruzzo’s sole DOCG, which is the highest classification for quality in Italy.  But working through the label and pulling the cork gives grand rewards in this case.  The wine, packaged in one of those over-sized bottles, is like the bottle itself -- oversized, but with extraordinary refinement.  It’s majestic, yet not overdone. Its grace is even more amazing considering its power.  The fine tannins and patina of oak imparts a luxurious texture.  You feel the effects of oak aging without tasting it.  The focus is on subtle earthy notes, herbs and other savory nuances rather than ripe fruit.  The hint of bitterness in the finish makes it an ideal choice for a hearty lamb dish.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2016

Cerulli Spinozzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane (Abruzzo, Italy) “Torre Migliori” 2008 ($17, Banfi Vintners):  Cerulli Spinozzi’s Torre Migliori has all of the concentration that Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is known for, but with a complexity and elegance that is rarely seen in wines made from that grape.  It’s easy to see why Colline Teramane is Abruzzo’s sole DOCG.  The initial whiff of herbal notes predicts pleasure.  And pleasure follows.  It has power without being overwhelming.  Not just fruit, its savory aspects are beguiling.  Polished tannins impart structure but zero astringency, which allows you to enjoy it now.  It’s a great choice for hearty pasta or just a steak on the grill.  And it’s an exceptional value.
93 Michael Apstein Jun 10, 2014

Farnese, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane (Abruzzo, Italy) 2003 ($22, Empson): Perhaps reflecting the hot 2003 summer, this wine tastes lusher and riper than I expected, though it still displays a legitimately dusty, spicy central Italian character.  As such, it should appeal to a wide array of consumers--those whose palates know Montepulciano d'Abruzzo as well as those more accustomed to New World, fruit-driven reds.  Restaurateurs take note.  It's hard to imagine anyone not liking it. 90 Paul Lukacs May 1, 2007

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) Riserva “Zanna” 2015 ($38, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Colline Teramane, the hills around Teramano, in the north of Abruzzo, neighboring the Marche, is Abruzzo’s sole DOCG.  Judging from this line-up of Illuminati’s wines, it certainly deserves that accolade based on the quality of this release.  A more robust wine, yet not overdone by any means, it’s wonderfully refined.  Great acidity makes it come alive in the finish, sporting a lovely hint of bitterness and savory qualities.  Its youthful boldness is apparent, which means giving it a few more years in the bottle is a good idea.  If you are planning to drink it now, find a leg of lamb.       
93 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2021

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Zanna” 2011 ($38, Montcalm Wine Imports): The somewhat unwieldy name of Abruzzo’s sole DOCG and the reputation of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for producing only inexpensive wine might put some consumers off from ordering this one.  That would be a mistake.   The Colline Teramane area within Abruzzo is uniquely well suited for the Montepulciano grape because its exposure to the sea and the elevation of the vineyards act as cooling influences, which allows the grapes to maintain their acidity thus instilling liveliness to the wines.  Illuminati is one of the leading producers in the DOCG.  Mineraly and dense, but with surprising elegance, this is a great choice for hearty pasta dishes or grilled beef.  An attractive hint of bitterness in the finish reminds you it’s serious wine.
91 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2017

Masciarelli, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Villa Gemma Riserva” 2018 ($98):  This wine took a couple of days to win me over.  It is not made every year, and it comes from a densely planted single vineyard at around 400 meters of elevation.  My initial notes said “NOPE” — my usual indicator that something is well out of balance.  I have learned, however, that an initial dismissal is always worthy of a recheck after significant airing.  The wood tones that were off-putting to me early on folded in after two days sitting in a half empty recorked bottle, exposing powerful fruit and layered brown spice character with no signs of oxidation.  So, if you are looking for an unusual cellar trophy to show off down the road, this is a fine candidate.  It is always good to be reminded to avoid snap judgments.       
94 Rich Cook Dec 19, 2023

Nevio, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) 2018 ($18, Palm Bay International):  Rich and rustic describes this bold Montepulciano, one sourced from old vines and made in local traditional methods.  Blackberry, cassis and black cherry are presented on a palate of chalky tannins that help push the flavors through the long finish.  It’s a good taste of old Italy at a price that makes it worth seeking out.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.        
94 Rich Cook Oct 5, 2021

Binomio, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) Riserva 2019 ($45, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The Abruzzo region is located in the middle of Italy’s boot.  Its western border is the Adriatic Sea with the Appenine Mountain Range on the east.  It is considered the greenest region in Italy, possibly the greenest in Europe.  Sounds like an ideal area to grow grapevines and make wine.  Obviously, the folks at Inama and joint venture partner Fattoria La Valentina think so, because they work together, farming a vineyard planted with a clone of the Montepulciano called Africa for the shape of the grape bunches.  The vines are farmed organically, though not certified.  The wine was aged in French oak barriques for 15 months with an additional six to eight months in stainless steel and spend 18 months in bottle.  It has a black ruby color and discrete aromas of blackberry, black cherry, and black plum.  It is tightly structured in the mouth and the concentrated black fruits are supported by crisp acidity and tight, chalky tannins.  It is at its  best with  hearty stews to challenge the tannins and tomato sauces that will appreciate the  acidity.            
93 Rebecca Murphy Feb 13, 2024

Cala De Poeti, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) 2020 ($17, Wine Insiders):  Here is a very young wine that shows the vibrancy of its youth in its firm tannic structure, which, as it subsides, will leave a gorgeous wine.  Not that it’s not already beautiful in its expression of cherry, raspberry and pepper.  Decant this for a few hours near term to get at everything within, or age for five years or so before going in.  I don’t say that about wines in this price range very often – I would go for a case!          
93 Rich Cook Apr 12, 2022

Umani Ronchi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Centovie” 2015 ($41, Vineyard Brands):  This is Umani Ronchi’s first vintage of its Montepulciano from its newly acquired vineyards in Abruzzo.  Also 100% Montepulciano, at this stage in its first year of production, it resembles the winery’s Cúmaro, but is readier to drink.  It has soft tannins, and has been made with ripe grapes, seemingly a trademark of Umani Ronchi’s wines, especially its reds.     
93 Ed McCarthy Dec 3, 2019

Umani Ronchi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Centovie” 2015 ($45, Vineyard Brands):  This is the wine to change the minds of those who underestimate Montepulciano d’Abruzzo as a simple, grapey wine to drink absent-mindedly with pizza.  Bulk renditions made in the southernmost section of Abruzzo do fit that description (and are responsible for underestimations of that sort), but quality-conscious producers in the north who control yields and vinify and age carefully can make something distinctive, delicious and downright delightful from the Montepulciano variety.  This wine shows its seriousness as soon as it becomes visible in a glass, with a very dark, deeply pigmented appearance.  The aromas and flavors are fruit-driven but neither simple nor grapey, with blackberry and black raspberry notes showing wonderfully bright, fresh tones, with very attractive spice accents.  The bright acidity (surprising and impressive in light of the quite warm 2015 vintage) provides lift to what is actually a formidably rich body, and what is most uncanny about the wine is that it is so big but yet so fresh.  This combination lends real versatility for food-pairing purposes and also makes it a year-round winner.  Made with organic grapes, this 2015 is the debut release of this wine, which will change a lot of minds regarding just how fine Montepulciano d’Abruzzo can be.   
93 Michael Franz Jul 21, 2020

Masciarelli, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Marina Cvetic Riserva" 2019 ($38):  While Montepulciano is gaining a toehold in Southern California as a fine performer, it is always a treat to taste origin examples.   I can imagine central Italy natives joy in having a wine like this as an option locally, as it offers a deeper, fuller bodied wine than Sangiovese typically provides.  Horses for courses as they say.  This bottling shows a fine balance of dark fruit and dry earth notes complemented by rich oak spice.  It will set off grilled meats or a pasta carbonara beautifully.  Now I’m salivating.      
92 Rich Cook Dec 19, 2023

Masciarelli, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) 2020 ($16, Vintus Wines):  Masciarell’s Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2020 is a medium-bodied red wine that is mellow and comfortably dry, with an easygoing texture and laid back yet energizing finish.  On the palate it is fruity (suggesting red fruits such as cherries and berries) and is dry rather than sweet.  Everything about this wine is equal parts simple and sophisticated, from the basic screwcap closure to the classic label on the traditional bottle.  With fresh and youthful flavors it is a red wine that is terrific with a range of foods from burgers to baba ganoush.     
92 Marguerite Thomas Jun 27, 2023

La Valentina, Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) "Spelt" Riserva 2015 ($21, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  More wine from this appellation is starting to show up here in the USA, and that’s a good thing -- there’s an earthy dimension to the best examples that is hard to find at the price points that it’s coming in at.  This wine delivers just such, with brooding damp earth joining fresh berry pie fruit in a package with moderate grip and a long, rich finish.  Splurge on a nice cut of beef with what you save on the wine budget here.  
91 Rich Cook May 14, 2019

Donini, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) 2019 ($12, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):  Deeply colored, aromatic and fresh tasting, this dry red wine is made from 85% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and 15% Sangiovese grapes.  With its generous berry flavors, relatively low alcohol (12.5%), soft tannins and remarkably low price, this is an irresistible red wine for mid-summer enjoyment.       
90 Marguerite Thomas Jul 13, 2021

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Lumeggio di Rosso” 2019 ($18, Montcalm Wine Importers):  This is a differently styled Montepulciano from Illuminati’s Riparossso, highlighting the more herbal and savory side of that grape.  Despite similar weight and concentration, it’s a more aromatic and energetic wine, which makes it a fine choice for current consumption with a sausage-infused tomato sauce for pasta.           
90 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2021

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Riparosso” 2017 ($13, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Illuminati does it again with their Riparosso.  They habitually produce a wine that delivers far more than the price suggests.  It’s a bright and lively mid-weight wine that combines fruit and savory notes.  A lovely firmness and a hint of bitterness in the finish, not to mention the price, makes it perfect for a simple mid-week pasta and meat sauce, or pizza.  
90 Michael Apstein Nov 19, 2019

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Riparosso” 2014 ($15, Montcalm Wine Imports): A steal, this wine is in the “buy it by the case” category. Always a good buy, the 2014 vintage is especially noteworthy because Illuminati made no riserva that year.  Grapes from their 45-year old vineyard that usually go into the riserva wound up in the Riparosso, imparting extra density, concentration and refinement. The remarkable thing about this wine is its balance of fruit and firmness and earthiness. Grander than the prices implies, it finishes with an attractive bitter note that makes it a wonderful choice with robust pasta dishes or a simply grilled veal chop.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2016

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Spiano” 2015 ($12, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Though I reviewed this wine a couple of years ago, it’s worth revisiting because it is still available at virtually the same price.  Still a bargain, it shows that non-prestigious wines are not necessarily a flash in the pan. Importantly, it reminds us that when you find a bargain, you can buy a few cases without fear that the wine will deteriorate.  This one from the Montepulciano grape, not one known for grandeur, continues to deliver dark fruity charm with an attractive hint of rusticity.  Bright acidity keeps it fresh. Pepperoni pizza, penne with sausage — I could on, but you get the idea.  
87 Michael Apstein Feb 18, 2020

Vino dei Fratelli, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) 2018 ($12, Quintessential Wines):  During these days of shelter-in-place and takeout only from your favorite restaurants, there is a heightened need for good pizza wines.  This Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Fratelli fits the bill nicely, showing pleasing ripe red-fruit aromas, mouth-watering acidity and moderate tannins.   
87 Robert Whitley May 5, 2020

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Ilico” 2018 ($24, Montcalm Wine Importers):  This Riserva, made from a selection of the best Montepulciano grapes, is real step up from this house’s other, entry-level releases: there’s much more going on here.  Not bigger or bolder, it’s just broader and more layered.  The tannins are more refined, giving it a glossier texture.  Though this nicely balanced wine displays similar energy to Illuminati’s Lumeggio di Rosso, it has a longer and more enticing finish.  Similar to Illuminati’s other Montepulciano wines, it’s a delight to drink now.         
92 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2021

Masciarelli, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC (Italy) “Marina Cvetic” 2016 ($27, Vintus):  Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has nothing to do with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  The former is a grape, the latter a village whose wines, curiously enough, are made from Sangiovese.   The quality and price of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is vast, from thin swill to monumental wine, which makes it a mine field when selecting wines.  Masciarelli, one of the top producers, is a name you can trust.  This one, named after the founder’s wife, has a charming rusticity and good weight.  Not aggressive, this mid-weight wine combines black cherry nuances and spice, which makes it perfect for a sausage-based tomato sauce over pasta.          
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Riparossso” 2019 ($18, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Illuminati, one of the leading producers in Abruzzo, makes a range of wines from the Montepulciano grape.  This one focuses on the dark fruit tones that the Montepulciano variety can display.  Its fleshiness, coupled with mild tannins, makes this mid-weight red a good choice for current consumption.     
88 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2021

Cerulli Spinozzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Torre Migliori” 2011 ($20, Cru Artisan):  The wines from Colline Teramane, Abruzzo’s only DOCG, fly under the radar for some inexplicable reason, which makes them a bargain for consumers.  Since they’re rarely seen on wine lists, even in the trendiest wine bars, it remains for savvy consumers to try them on their own, at home.  This small DOCG has several valleys that run east-west, allowing cooling weather from the Adriatic to drop the temperatures at night, which allows the grapes to hold their acidity, which in turn gives freshness to the wines.  The Cerulli Spinozzi family has been growing grapes for decades, but only started bottling their own wine about 15 years ago.  In a short time, they have become one of the leading producers of Colline Teramane.  Their 2011, still young, has all the trappings of a great wine, combining earthy tarriness with elegance. Powerful, without being jammy or over ripe, bright acidity keeps it fresh, and you coming back for another sip between bites of robust pasta.  They have managed to polish and refine the sometimes “wild” character of the Montepulciano grape without eviscerating it.  Having experience with how their wines age, I am confident that the 2011 will be even more complex and enjoyable in a few years--if you can keep your hands off it. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2016

Citra, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) "Caroso" Riserva 2010 ($25): This is an Italian goddess of a wine. Beautifully rich and deep, it's a nose full of elegant red fruit, with complementary notes of soft cedar spice, wildflowers and powder.   On the palate, it's lively in its translation of the aroma profile, with structured acidity and fine grained tannins that push the finish to an amazing length.  You can spend a lot more on Italian wine, but you'd have a hard time finding a better one.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 96 Rich Cook Jun 7, 2016

Umani Ronchi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) 'Podere' 2017 ($13, Vineyard Brands):   Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is one of the great wonders of the wine world.  It's always delicious and always inexpensive, and Umani Ronchi is one of the top producers in this area east of Rome in southern Italy.  The 2017 Podere is richly layered with sweet dark fruits, supple tannins and impressive length in the finish.  You could hardly go wrong at this price.  A Platinum Award winner at the 37th San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
94 Robert Whitley Apr 9, 2019

Il Feuduccio, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2000 ($38, Empson): So you are wondering, '93 points for a Montepulciano d'Abruzo?  Is Franz on the take?'  The answer is no, and just to prove the point, let me say something nasty about another wine from this producer:  The 2003 'Fonte Venna' Montepulciano d'Abruzo is a total snore, and not worth the $19 being asked for it.  By contrast, this 2000 bottling is a vinous thrill ride and a bargain at $38, with intense, exotic notes of deeply ripe cherries, saddle leather, cocoa, spices and fresh flowers.  Medium-bodied but phenomenally intense in aroma and flavor, yet not overbearing but rather harmonious from start to finish, this is a remarkable wine that you'll be equally inclined to gulp or to study.  Stunning stuff! 93 Michael Franz Nov 21, 2006

Umani Ronchi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) “Jorio” 2015 ($19):  Here is a very serious rendition of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that can dispel any doubts raised by the many rather unremarkable wines released from the southern sector of the region.  The aromas are a bit reticent, but this speaks right up once the wine hits the palate, hitting with big flavors recalling blackberries and black raspberries.  Although the fruit is highly expressive, the wine’s overall profile is as savory as it is sweet or fruity, which keeps it interesting sip after sip.  Medium-plus body and above average intensity call for using this at the table, and grilled, garlicky lamb would be a great choice.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge. 
93 Michael Franz Apr 16, 2019

Il Feuduccio di S. Maria d'Orni, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) "Margae" 1999 ($66, Empson): This bottle is full of surprises.  Montepulciano d'Abruzzo for $66 is an eyebrow-raiser for starters.  A current-release vintage of 1999 comes in a close second.  But the wine is stunning in its dimension and complexity, and is clearly worth the money if you've got the guts to take the plunge.  Ripe and rich and deeply flavorful, with all sorts of little leathery, mushroomy, mineral complexities on top of a terrific core of black cherry fruit, this is a perfectly mature, medium-bodied wonder.  It will sing with moderately robust fare like duck or veal. 92 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2006

La Valentina, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) "Spelt" Riserva 2015 ($21, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Abruzzo produces some of the world’s most generous and fleshy red wines at prices anyone can afford and the Spelt Riserva is one of the most inviting.  Showing intense black-fruit flavors with smooth, polished tannins it’s a crowd-pleaser from the first sip to the last.  And you can drink in immediately, no cellaring required.  
91 Robert Whitley Apr 30, 2019

Umani Ronchi , Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) "Podere" 2021 ($15, Vineyard Brands):  From an estate founded in 1890 and owned by the Bianchi-Bernetti family since 1959, this Montepulciano is widely available and one of the best values offered these days.  With no oak aging, it is released a few months after the harvest.  It is garnet in color and shows attractive plum and cherry fragrances with a hint of mint.  On the palate it is bright and balanced with flavors combining plum and licorice.  It stands out with its slightly juicy palate that is supported by good acidity adding length and interest to the finish.  With its silky texture, solid core of ripe fruit, and light tannin, it is a pizza wine and much more.     
91 Norm Roby Sep 12, 2023

Lepore, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) Cerasuolo 2005 ($25, Salvia Bianca Imports): Montepulciano is both the name of a town in Tuscany and the main red grape in many of Italy's many wine regions.  This delightful light red is identified on the label as 'Rosé Italian Wine.'  No matter, this is what rosés should be and so often are not.  The color is a light plumy-red and the aroma is forward deep black cherry.  It's dry, with good texture, forward fruit and subtle tannins, definitely more along the lines of a rosato than a darker chiaretto. 90 Michael Franz Nov 14, 2006

San Lorenzo, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2007 ($11, Siema):  This is an excellent rendition of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo at a very attractive price.  It shows very deep color and broad, penetrating flavors, though those aren’t terribly difficult to achieve with this grape in this region.  What is really most impressive about the wine is that it also shows excellent balance and very appealing styling, with interesting interplay between earthy complexity and fresh fruitiness.  Immediately pleasing but also nuanced and interesting, this is a terrific red for all sorts of pasta and meat dishes, as it straddles the line between medium and full body. 90 Michael Franz Feb 9, 2010

Valenosi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) “Quattro Mani” 2006 ($10, Domaine Select): Run, don't walk, to buy this wine!  I can't remember a better $10 red.  While many inexpensive Montelpuciano d'Abruzzos taste fairly dull, this one offers almost opulent flavors--ripe red and black fruit to be sure, but also plenty of spice, coffee, sweet leather and more.  It's wonderfully nuanced, yet not at all wimpy, and ends with a very satisfying because ever evolving finish.  A beautiful cool weather choice, it's a steal at the price. 90 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2008

Valle Reale, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2006 ($17, Winebow):  Montepulciano d’Abruzzo can be a mixed bag--some are dreadful, coarse and tannic, while others, like this one, shine.  Valle Reale is a newcomer as far as Italian producers go, having been founded about a decade ago in 2000.  They are located in the mountainous part of this central Italian region on the Adriatic.  Leonardo Pizzolo, Valle Reale’s young energetic owner, refers to the area as the “oven of Abruzzo” because of the daytime heat.  But the temperatures fall dramatically because of their elevation allowing the grapes to maintain their acidity and the wines their vibrancy.   Valle Reale’s 2006 has a great combination of dark fruit and earth flavors with an uncommon--at least for Montepulciano--elegance.  Its robust nature and freshness makes it a good choice for hearty pasta dishes. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2011

Cataldi Madonna, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2007 ($20, Vias Imports): The general reputation of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has been depressed for years by large volumes of inexpensive juice made predominantly in the south of Abruzzo.  However, leading producers in the region--notably including Cataldi Madonna--have sought to demonstrate that this grape can produce complex, age-worthy wine by reducing yields and improving vinification procedures.  This bottling shows the ripe, generous black cherry fruit for which Montepulciano is valued, but also some fresh acidity and a nice spicy backnote.  Pair this with more robust pasta dishes or lighter meats. 88 Michael Franz Oct 6, 2009

La Fiera, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) 2014 ($8, Winesellers Ltd.): Another budget friendly, easy drinker from Italy, a country that seems to have oceans of the stuff right now.  This one shows red fruit, leaf and saddle aromas, with good supple structure and medium palate weight bringing the aromas to life as flavors that linger pleasantly. 
88 Rich Cook Feb 16, 2016

La Valentina, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) “Spelt” 2003 ($23, Dalla Terra): This is a muscular Montepulciano that combines black--almost wild--fruit flavors with earthy ones.  Big, yet balanced, its moderate tannins lend structure without being intrusive because they are ripe and polished.  Not a before dinner sipping wine, it cries out for a hearty pasta dish. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2009

La Valentina, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) 2015 ($14, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Soft, plush and round, the La Valentina Montepulciano shows ripe black fruits with a note of anise and smooth, supple tannins.  A perfect wine for the summer barbecue, at a great price.   
88 Robert Whitley Apr 30, 2019

Niro, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) 2015 ($15):  Central Italy's Abruzzo region, overlooking the Adriatic Sea, is one of Italy's most beautiful. The pace of life is mellow, much like the wines. The dominant red wine, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo typically exhibits soft, ripe textures with succulent dark-fruit character. The price is just as mellow, which is an added bonus. The 2015 from Niro is a prime example, a supple, delicious red that can handle grilled meats and tangy tomato sauces with equal aplomb. 88 Robert Whitley Oct 24, 2017

Velenosi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) “Quattro Mani” 2006 ($10, Domaine Select): Producers in Abruzzo (especially in its more northerly area) have become increasingly serious about their wines in recent years, and reds such as this are taking the region to the top of Italy's value pyramid.  Like many bottlings of Montepulciano d' Abruzzo seen in the North American market, this is amply flavored and structured, but it stands apart from many competing bottlings on the strength of impressive purity and balance.  Dark cherry fruit notes are vivid and fresh, with some brightening influence from acidity and structure from ripe, fine-grained tannins. 88 Michael Franz Mar 18, 2008

Villa Bizzarri, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) “Girone dei Folli” 2004 ($12, Siema): This fine rendering of Montepulciano d' Abruzzo offers lots of ripe, chunky fruit recalling dark cherries and black plums.  Full-bodied and deeply flavored, it is more about power and immediacy than restraint or subtlety, but that only means that one should pair it with food accordingly.  Matched with Italian sausages or a burger or ribs, this will prove very pleasurable. 88 Michael Franz Mar 18, 2008

Fattoria La Valentina, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) "Spelt" 2003 ($23, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): This old fashioned Italian red from the "other" side of Italy, along the Adriatic coast, is straightforward and fruit driven, but there are lovely underlying complexities, such as hints of anise and dried herbs, that give it a lift and make it an especially good match for roasted meats and dishes that feature mushrooms. 87 Robert Whitley Jan 13, 2009

La Fiera, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) 2014 ($8, Winesellers Ltd.): This Montepulciano is textbook, offering ripe, juicy dark berry aromas and soft supple tannins. Though plump and simple, it is ultimately satisfying and a red you can put on the table every night without having to take a second mortgage. The price is no indicator of low quality, for most of the reds from Abruzzo are modest in price while long on flavor.
87 Robert Whitley Feb 16, 2016

Vino dei Fratelli, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) 2007 ($9, Quintessential): Montepulciano is always among the easiest drinking reds produced in Italy, making it quite literally a fabulous pizza wine. Vino dei Fratelli's '07 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a plump red that offers juicy dark fruits and soft tannins, with a pleasingly long finish. 85 Robert Whitley Jun 30, 2009

Vino Dei Fratelli, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy) 2006 ($7, Quintessential): Simple and rustic, this Montepulciano is truly a spaghetti wine, worthy of a place at the table with warm bread, a bowl of olives, marinated vegetables and bubbling pasta from the forno! Simple and fruity, it's meant to wash down a meal rather than challenge your vocabulary of wine descriptors. And it's priced to move by the case. 78 Robert Whitley Sep 9, 2008

Farnese, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane (Abruzzo, Italy) Riserva "Opis" 2001 ($33, Empson): I've been watching this increasingly renowned appellation closely over the past year, and this wine is certainly among its top renditions.  There's just a bit of bitterness in the finish of this wine that knocks it below the very best current releases, and even this is an insignificant flaw if you'll be drinking the wine with food (as indeed you should be with Italian reds in any case).  This note makes the wine a little more confined in optimal usage, but is easily neutralized with food bearing just a bit of dietary fat, and once that is added to the equation, all of its interesting qualities push right to the fore.  These include rich, highly expressive fruit notes recalling dark berries, black cherries and prunes that are accented with hints of leather, spices and tobacco leaves.  Fresh acidity keeps the wine focused, and fine-grained tannin lends firmness without drying the fine finish. 88 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2006

Aculina, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOP (Abruzzo, Italy) 2017 ($24, Penrose Hill):  Some great values coming out of this region, and more and more of them are making the trip west so that we can enjoy them.  Fresh ripe cherry fruit, bright fall spice and easy oak toast are fully integrated from start to finish with a blossoming push bringing you back to the glass again and again.  Nicely done!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
94 Rich Cook Jun 11, 2019

Rosé:

Villa Gemma Masciarelli, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (Italy) Rosé 2014 ($14): This complex and cherry pink rosé is a heftier style than your average rosé, but a welcome addition to the mix.  Made from 100 percent Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes and presents with an intense cherry pink color and a fragrant floral bouquet etched with rich pomegranate and fresh thyme.  A sublime accompaniment to a pizza al fresco.
95 Jessica Dupuy Apr 12, 2016

La Valentina, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) Rosato 2021 ($14, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The intense, dark cherry color of this wine suggests you’re in a new territory for Rosé, or in this case Rosato wine.  The color comes from the highly pigmented Montepulciano grape grown in the Abruzzo region of Italy.  The appellation regulations allow 85 percent of this grape to be blended with other local grapes including whites.  However, brothers Sabatino, Roberto, and Andrea Di Properzio use only Montepuciano grapes.  They use a traditional process called saignée or tank bleeding.  They monitor the fermenting grapes and remove a portion of the juice when it has reached the desired color, flavors, and body for Rosato.  The remaining juice continues fermenting to become a red wine.  The resulting Rosato is an intense and tightly structured wine with red cherry, pomegranate, red plum flavors with a bit of orange zest, mouthwatering acidity and light supple tannins.  Its body and structure make it a perfect partner for barbecued ribs, roast chicken or a sausage pizza.    
94 Rebecca Murphy Aug 16, 2022

Illuminati, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Campirosa” 2014 ($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Though its enticing cherry-red hue says rosé, this is not your standard innocuous one, but rather a rosé masquerading as a light red wine--and a delightful one at that.  Fresh and bright, with hints of wild strawberries, the barest hint of a tannic structure and whiff of bitterness in the finish remind you it was made from a light pressing of the Montepulciano grape.  Lively, vigorous and very fresh, it would be a great choice for sushi because, almost paradoxically, it can stand up to tuna without overwhelming more delicate fish.  And look at the price!
90 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2015

Lunaria, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOP (Italy) "Pettirosce" 2019 ($15, Serendipity Wines):  Lunaria is a wine created by Cantina Orsogna, a cooperative winery with 600 grower members committed to organic and biodynamic viticulture in the Abruzzo region of Italy.   It is made from the Montepulciano grape that produces Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  In fact, before the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo appellation was created in 2010, rosato wines from that area were labeled with the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo appellation.  Cerasuolo means cherry colored, and indeed this wine is dark cherry red.  It is bone dry with dark cherry, cranberry flavors laced with notes of dried woody herbs enlivened by crisp acidity.  The grape’s sturdy tannins provide structure and texture, making this a rosé that can age.  It belongs on your table with charcuterie or a grilled veal chop.          
90 Rebecca Murphy Aug 17, 2021

Cantina Zaccagnini, Colline Pescaresi (Abruzzo, Italy) Rosé "dal Tralcetto" 2021 ($18, WinesU):  The 2021 dal Tralcetto Rosé from Cantine Zaccagnini shows what a good Abruzzo estate can do with dry Rosé wines.  It is a lovely and vibrant wine, offering a delicious combination of juicy fruit and lively spice.  The dal Tralcetto Rosé bursts with strawberry, red cherry and cranberry fruits enhanced by nuances of fresh flowers and coriander spice.  It is pure and lively, with juicy red fruits as well as subtle floral and spice tones.  This is a juicy and bright Rosé that will offer great tasting pleasure over the next few months.       
90 Wayne Belding Oct 18, 2022

Masciarelli, Colline Teatine IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Montepulciano Rosato 2020 ($14, Vintus Wines):  This estate, located in San Martino sulla Marrucina in the province of Chieti includes olive groves as well as vineyards.  The region lies between the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains.  Founded in 1981 by Gianni Masciarelli the estate is run today by Masciarelli’s wife Marina Cvetic and daughter Miriam Lee Masciarelli (Masciarelli died in 2008).  The Masciarelli winery produces 22 different wine labels including reds, whites and rosés.  This medium pink Rosé entices first with vigorous aromas followed by bold flavors that might be described as more minerally than fruity and ends with a substantial finish.  The wine will be a treat as an accompaniment to a variety of different foods including salty / smoky treats such as cured ham.  Montepulciano grapes (not to be confused with Tuscany’s Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, in which the word refers to a village) are deeply colored purple black grapes grown primarily in central and southern Italy.      
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 27, 2023

Masciarelli, Colline Teatine Rosato IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Montepulciano 2022 ($14):  Here is a saucy style of Rosé that pops dry and refreshing.  I haven’t experienced many pink wines made from the Montepulciano grape, and it makes me wonder why I haven’t seen more of them.  Zippy cherry, watermelon and citrus notes get a nice texture to travel on, and a little tannic grip extends the finish.  If you can find it, don’t hesitate.   
92 Rich Cook Aug 15, 2023

Masciarelli, Rosato delle Colline Teramane IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) 2010 ($10, Masciarelli Wine Company):  Though I’m generally not a fan of rosés, this one, with its charming rusticity, is impossible to ignore.  Made from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape, it delivers a subtle gusty or earthy quality that complements its bright strawberry-like fruitiness.  At ten bucks, it’s a steal. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

White:

Atomos, Abruzzo (Italy) Trebbiano 2018 ($300):  Atomos wine originates from Abruzzo.  Abruzzo is one of the oldest wine-growing regions globally and is known predominately for two varieties, the red Montepulciano and the white Trebbiano.  Accordingly, Atomos does not stray away from what the region yields best and makes two single-varietal wines from these regionally dominant varieties.  However, what really sets Atomos apart in the vast landscape of Italian wine is their manual grape destemming technique.  Each berry is destemmed using three fingers and without any mechanical means.  The bottling also doesn't disappoint, providing 1 liter of wine instead of the traditional 750 milliliters.  Their 100 percent Trebbiano displays beautiful light gold hues with dense aromas of lemon peel and melon rind in the glass.  Every sip brings depth and intoxicating opulence with flavors of melon and citrus lifted by bright acidity that carries the fruit flavors to a gentle, stony finish.          
94 Miranda Franco Mar 30, 2021

Tiberio, Abruzzo (Italy) Pecorino 2020 ($28, Kellogg Selections):  Tiberio was one of the earlier adopters of producing high-quality Pecorino and one of the few producers in the Abruzzo region of Italy that helped bring this grape variety out of obscurity.  However, it largely remains an unsung white variety, which in the case of this 2020 Tibero, translates to superb value.  If you love Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, Pecorino is a delicious alternative.  The 2020 Pecorino showcases a lively, medium-bodied palate with flavors of yellow pear, peach, nectarine, and fennel, and a touch of salty minerality wrapped around the expressive, caressing finish.  Not surprisingly, the bright acidity of this wine pairs beautifully with the fatty character of Pecorino cheese.       
92 Miranda Franco Oct 11, 2022

Cataldi Madonna, Abruzzo (Italy) Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2007 ($15, Vias Imports): Abruzzo, a region on the Italy’s Adriatic coast across from Rome, is home to wines of highly variable quality.  Some are great, others abysmal.  The key is finding a high quality producer, such as Cataldi Madonna, one of the best in the region.  This bracing white wine delivers an alluring combination of stoniness and a lemony edge.  It’s a perfect choice for fish sautéed in garlic-infused olive oil. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009

Masciarelli, Abruzzo Bianco DOC (Italy) "Villa Gemma" 2022 ($24):  You may be wondering, “white from Abruzzo?” when you see the header for this review, but once you taste this wine, you will answer your own question with an emphatic “Yes!”  I will admit to tasting only a handful of Abruzzo whites, and I will admit that this is my first go at a wine with Cococciola in the mix.  It is here at a high enough percentage to add some herbal zing to the aroma profile with the floral, citrus, apple and bright stone minerality of the other components.  It’s a great solo refresher, or you can serve it with fish or small bites of all kinds.  Nice price for the quality level!  Contains 50% Trebbiano Abruzzese, 30% Pecorino and 20% Cococciola.        
92 Rich Cook Dec 19, 2023

Castello di Semivicoli, Abruzzo DOC (Italy) Pecorino 2018 ($20):  Pecorino, in addition to being a cheese, is also a grape, which, in the right hands, makes a captivating wine.  Moreover, I predict Pecorino will become the go-to white wine for Italian fare because its lively edginess cuts through most any dish and refreshes the palate.  Its typical grapefruit-rind bite makes it an unlikely candidate to replace the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio, frequently ordered as, “I’ll-have-a-glass-of-white-wine.”  But it is precisely that character that makes it perfect with food.  Combine Pecorino with one of Abruzzo’s top producers, Masciarelli, who owns the Castello di Semivicoli estate, and you have this easy-to-recommend wine that over delivers for the price.  Stone-y and flinty, their 2018 delivers a pleasant bite (like the cheese) and a remarkably long finish.  It’s a refreshing and penetrating mid-weight wine that stands up to full-flavored dishes such as spaghetti cacio e pepe or grilled bluefish.  Now the rub.  It’s not imported into the U.S.  Let’s hope that changes, Masciarelli.  For now, U.S. consumers will need to search for other producers’ versions.   
92 Michael Apstein Feb 25, 2020

Tenuta Cerulli Spinozzi, Colli Aprutini IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Cortalto” 2018 ($17, Romano Brands):  First, Pecorino is also an Italian grape, not just a cheese.  Second, it makes lovely wines that I predict will take the world by storm.  This one by Cerulli Spinozzi, one of the region’s top producers, delivers a panoply of mouth-cleansing citrus flavors that buttresses its good density.  There’s a pleasing prickle on the palate and a subtle hint of bitterness — minerality — in the finish.       
92 Michael Apstein Nov 23, 2021

Cantina Zaccagnini, Colline Pescaresi (Abruzzo, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Tralcetto” 2021 ($19, WinesU):  You will find Cantina Zaccagnini in Bolognano, a small town in Abruzzo sitting about 30 miles from the Adriatic Sea.  The estate, which was established in 1978, has clay and limestone soils, and today boasts about 500 acres of vines.  The vineyard is sustainably farmed and hand harvested.  After sitting on the lees for 3 to 4 months this Pinot Grigio is aged another few months in stainless steel tanks.  The finished wine offers refreshing aromatics, an engaging texture, and delicate stone fruit and citrus flavors.  With its Stelvin screw-cap closure the bottle is easy to open, close and store.  Oh, and what’s that decorative thing that looks like a piece of straw around the bottle neck?  It’s a “tralcetto” — or piece of vine — for which the wine is named.       
91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 4, 2022

Tiberio, Colline Pescaresi IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2016 ($21, The Sorting Table): Pecorino, the wine, not the cheese, is currently “hot,” which is surprising considering it was practically extinct as a grape variety as recently as two decades ago.  Now there are probably 60 producers on the bandwagon. Although I’ve not sampled them all, it’s hard to imagine finding one better than Tiberio’s.  (The grape likely gets its name from sheep herders who ate them while tending their flocks.)  Its semi-aromatic quality delivers a mixture of nutty and herbal aromas.  In the mouth, it has good density and a seductive slightly creamy texture.  Rich without being heavy, zippy acidity keeps it fresh and you coming back for more.  It’s a star!
93 Michael Apstein Jul 18, 2017

Cirelli La Collina Biologica, Colline Pescaresi IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2018 ($21):  Pecorino, both the wine and the cheese, typically have an attractive bite to them.  This one, an organic wine from the organically-focused producer whose name is, literally, “the organic hill,” has a creamy texture that mutes the bite.  It is still there, but overall the wine’s less energetic, but more suave, showing that Pecorino can have a broader profile.   
90 Michael Apstein Sep 17, 2019

Cerulli Spinozzi, Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) “Cortalto” 2014 ($15): Cortalto’s a wine to buy by the case.  The pleasing bite of Pecorino, the grape, could remind consumers of the cheese.  Cerulli Spinozzi, one of the top producers in Abruzzo, manages to combine the attractive bite with good concentration and uplifting acidity in this fresh and lively wine.  A zesty finishes amplifies the enjoyment.  It’s a great choice for linguine and clam sauce or even a rotisserie chicken.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2016

La Valentina, Pecorino Colline Pescaresi IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) 2019 ($16, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  This wine displays a cheerful, bright golden color, and aromas of ripe spicy peaches with a hint of orange zest.  It is fresh and round in the mouth boasting ripe peach.  It will be a welcome guest at holiday parties and dinners.  It is made from Pecorino, a grape that shares the name with an Italian sheep cheese.  According to Ian D’Gata's Native Wine Grapes of Italy, the name referred to the grapes that sheep herders ate while shepherding their flocks.       
90 Rebecca Murphy Nov 16, 2021

Villa Medoro, Pecorino Terre di Chieti (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2017 ($18, Banville Wine Merchants):  The Pecorino grape is most known in southern Italy’s Abruzzo region, as well as in the Marche.  It is a white that provides a delicious tasting experience.  The 2017 vintage from Villa Medoro is a great success and shows the attractive style of the grape.  The Pecorino is an ancient grape variety that is grown in the hills around Teramo in Abruzzo.  The 2017 Villa Medoro Pecorino shows scents of wildflowers, pear, peach, orange peel, and subtle herbs.  On the palate, pure pear and peach fruit flavors are backed by floral, honey, herbal and creamy hints.  The layers of full and exotic flavors are underscored by a bracing, crisp acidity.  It’s a delicious white with a rich texture that will be a fine companion for poultry and richer seafood dishes.   
92 Wayne Belding Oct 8, 2019

Casal Thaulero, Pecorino Terre Di Chieti (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Borgo Thaulero” 2015 ($10, Acolade wines):  This is an utterly charming wine, especially given its very affordable price.  With an appealing, delicately floral fragrance, a flavor profile that leans more toward the tropical fruit spectrum, and an invigorating saline minerality this Pecorino has a lot going for it.  It’s a minimalist wine, notable for its uncluttered simplicity. 90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 11, 2016

Niro, Terre di Chieti (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2016 ($16, Palm Bay International):  Pecorino is a variety that was nearly extinct as recently as 15 years ago, but is now roaring back in the southern portion of the Marche and northern Abruzzo, both located on the Adriatic below Venice in Central Italy.  The variety can also make very fine sparkling wine, but this dry table rendition is terrific, with restrained citrus and white melon fruit that leads to an intriguing nutty, mineral finish.  Don’t let the word, “restrained” put you off:  The key to this wine’s success is that the subtlety of the fruit lets its other nuances hold their own. 
92 Michael Franz May 1, 2018

Farnese, Terre di Chieti (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino Casale Vecchio 2006 ($16, Empson): This thoroughly likeable white wine is made from 100% Pecorino--a grape that has nothing to do with cheese, but rather (if I read the back label correctly) small sheep. Well, okay. In any event, it has an engaging aroma (part floral, part pear) and a full, mouth-watering texture, with a nice crisp finish. 89 Marguerite Thomas Sep 11, 2007

Tenuta Giuliano, Terre Di Chieti DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2012 ($15, Premier Wine Company): This wine might be tricky to locate, but it is worth the effort.  Bright banana, melon, wool and mint flood your nose with a spiced peach impression sitting in the background.  It's got nice viscosity and crisp acid -- very nicely balanced, with a warming character on the palate that feels fresh rather than hot. The finish is very long with richness and solid integration of flavors. Very interesting, and priced to buy in bulk.
91 Rich Cook Aug 26, 2014

Agriverde, Terre di Chieti IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Riseis" 2018 ($11):  Pecorino, the grape and the wine made from it, is a name to remember.  Its home is in the middle of the east coast of Italy in the regions of Le Marche and Abruzzo.  As with all wine, there is a range of style of Pecorino from zippy and cutting to softer and creamier.  This one is definitely on the zippy and cutting side of the spectrum, with a hint of mouth-watering salinity in the finish, which makes it perfect for pasta with clams or mussels.  Add Pecorino to your list of racy whites to try.  
93 Michael Apstein Sep 17, 2019

Terra d’Aligi , Terre di Chieti IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Zite” 2019 ($25, Enotec Imports):  This is a very, very good example of Pecorino, a variety that was nearly extinct two decades ago, but is now roaring back to serious popularity (entirely deserved) thanks to the efforts of vintners in southern Marche and northern Abruzzo.  This is an unusually concentrated and rich version, with ripe fruit flavors recalling autumn pear and white melon, but there’s a nice little streak of citrus acidity that lifts and freshens the mid-palate and finish.  If you can find a bottle of this, drink it with food and drink it now, as the acid balance is just right at the moment, and the wine will prove extremely versatile (like really good Pinot Bianco, which this rendition resembles more than most takes on Pecorino in weight and texture).  A hint of pleasant bitterness (like citrus pith or walnut shell) will also help this show nicely at the table.    
92 Michael Franz Oct 27, 2020

Istituto San Michele, Terre di Chieti IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Incrocio Manzoni “Castel San Michele” NV ($20, Trentino):  Mixed citrus, melon and pith aromas invite you to a crisp palate that delivers on the promise of the nose, driven by racy acidity that really requires food to allow the wine to shine its brightest.  I would go for a whitefish with a creamy sauce and a bit of garlic.  
91 Rich Cook Sep 3, 2019

Terra d’Aligi, Terre di Chieti IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Zite” 2020 ($15, Enotec Imports):  Pecorino is a high-quality variety that has roared back from near extinction during the past 20 years, mostly from locations in the northern part of Abruzzo and the southern part of the Marche.  That should make this an object of curiosity for anyone who hasn’t tasted a wine made from this grape, but of course, the wine world offers up a lot of curiosities.  Pecorino is not just another of those, but rather a potentially excellent variety like Albariño or Godello, both of which were rescued from impending extinction during the past generation.  This is a very fine example of the breed, offering up very attractive aromas and flavors on a medium-bodied platform, with subtle floral aromas and delectable flavors recalling white melon and moderately ripe stone fruits, with very fine acidity lending balance and freshness.  Don’t worry that this is from 2020 rather than 2021.  Grab it if you see it, as it is singing right now.   
91 Michael Franz Aug 16, 2022

Masciarelli, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) Trebbiano “Marina Cvetic” Riserva 2018 ($58, Vintus):  Similar to its red counterpart, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo can be grown all over the province and varies in quality from insipid to inspiring.  As you would expect from a top producer, Masciarelli’s fits the latter category.  Why the vast difference?  Stefano di Nisio, cofounder of the Atomos Wine Company in Abruzzo, told me recently that the quality of wine can be explained, at least in part, by yield, which for Trebbiano can vary by a factor of 10.  Though I don’t know the precise yield for Masciarelli’s 2018, it’s likely low given the wine’s extraordinary depth and weight.  Who knew Trebbiano could make such an impressive serious wine?  Cutting, uplifting acidity keeps it fresh and balances its concentration.  There’s a subtle and pleasant bitterness in the finish that makes it a delight to drink with grilled swordfish.     
93 Michael Apstein Mar 23, 2021

Masciarelli, Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Marina Cvetic Riserva” 2020 ($60):  This is a serious expression of Trebbiano – a regional clone, one that is much more than the somewhat neutral version found in other parts of Italy.  Barrel fermented and lees aged, it is bone dry, featuring tart apple, lemon and soft herb character that linger long thanks to the grip provided by the lees.  It needs some serious food to show best – a classic filet of Sole or a creamy mushroom risotto will benefit nicely from the pairing.  Don’t over chill it, as there are nuances here that you won’t want to miss.        
93 Rich Cook Dec 19, 2023

Tiberio, Trebbiano D’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) 2016 ($18, The Sorting Table):  This wine is 100% Trebbiano D'Abruzzese, which is a grape often confused with Bombino Bianco, Passerina, and Trebbiano Toscano.  (Not to be confused with the generic “Trebbiano,” which according to Ian D’Agata doesn’t even really exist).  This wine is powerful with radiant citrus tones and a bracingly tart palate.  Crisp, fresh, and beautifully linear, this wine is finishes with a vervy mineral character. 
91 Jessica Dupuy Aug 21, 2018

Tiberio, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP (Abruzzo, Italy) 2016 ($15): There are eight varieties of Trebbiano, according to Ian D’Agata, the world’s foremost authority on Italian grapes, which results in great confusion because they are certainly not all the same.  This wine is made from Trebbiano Abruzzese, not to be confused with the more pedestrian Trebbiano Toscana.   As a result, the wine is a showstopper, delivering, paradoxically, yellow peach-like flavors in an austere framework.  Fresh and long, it finishes with just a hint of bitterness.  Though not a heavy wine, it has great persistence.  Try it this summer with grilled swordfish and in caper butter sauce. And a bargain to boot!
93 Michael Apstein Jun 13, 2017

Tiberio, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (Italy) 2020 ($20, Robert Panzer):  This is not your run-of-the-mill Trebbiano Toscano (also known as Ugni Blanc).  Rather, this is 100 percent Trebbiano Abruzzese, a rare breed -- a lively and richly textured grape.  The 2020 Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2020 explodes with apricot, grapefruit, jasmine, and orange blossom aromas.  Crisp and fresh, laced with flavors of orchard fruit, almond, and a hint of anise.  This shines with snappy acidity leading to a persistent finish.             
91 Miranda Franco Jun 14, 2022

Farnese, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (Italy) 2007 ($10, Empson USA): Crisp and dry, with sufficient acidity for balance, and well-defined citrus fruit flavor, this wine offers tasty refreshment for a mere $10.  Trebbiano may not usually be thought of as a classy grape variety, but this wine does what chic Pinot Grigio so often fails to do - provide wine-drinking pleasure at a fair price.  If you're looking for a dry Italian white for summer entertaining, it would be an excellent choice. 87 Paul Lukacs Apr 28, 2009

Farnese, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) 2005 ($7, e): That's right:  Seven Bucks.  And the wine is distinctive and tasty, with a faintly earthy aroma of wet straw lending interest to a base of white melon fruit.  Dry and lightly mineral, this would be a nice partner for light fish dishes, and is also quite pleasant to sip on its own.  Had I known about this wine in my days as an impoverished graduate student, I'd have done some real damage with it. 85 Michael Franz Nov 21, 2006

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Alto Adige:

Red:

J. Hofstätter, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Nero Vignas Urbano Barthenau 2002 ($72, Domaine Select Merchants): For many years now, Hofstätter's Barthenau vineyard Pinot Noir has been considered not only Italy's finest, but a world-class Pinot Noir as well.  I tasted both the 2002 and 2004; the latter has beautiful Pinot aromas and excellent balance, and will be great, but is just too young right now.  The 2002 Barthenau is simply stunning, with gorgeous tart cherry aromas and concentrated flavors.  Sixty percent of the vineyard's production stays in Italy, with much of the rest going to the rest of Europe, leaving just a small amount for the U.S.  You can find it in high-end Italian restaurants.  It's worth the search! 96 Ed McCarthy Jun 26, 2007

Cantina Kurtatsch, Alto Adige (Italy) Schiava Alte Reben “Sonntaler” 2020 ($32, Vineyard Brands):  I’ve adored this wine in every vintage I’ve tasted, and this 2020 rendition is surely no exception.  It is a marvelously delicate wine, with truly light body that has become difficult to find as so many established areas are growing warmer.  In terms of aroma and flavor, it over-delivers in relation to its weight, which is exactly the formula for success at the summer table.  Red fruit notes predominate in both the bouquet and on the palate, with cranberry and wild strawberry coming first to mind when searching for descriptors.  There’s no evidence of wood tannin at all, so if this saw the inside of any barrels, they must have been big, or old, or coopered with steam rather than fire.  By the way, as this is from Alto Adige, every element in the wine’s designation also appears in German, so this also reads as Vernatch (instead of Schiava) made from old vines (Alte Reben) in Südtirol (instead of Alto Adige) by Kellerei (rather than Cantina) Kurtatsch.  As the Italians won World War I, I prefer to go with Italian verbiage, but still feel the need to clear this up.  Almost ethereal in feel but still quite aromatic and flavorful, this is simply gorgeous.    
93 Michael Franz Jun 14, 2022

Nals Margreid, Alto Adige (Italy) Schiava “Galea” 2020 ($22, Serendipity Wines):  Residents of the gorgeous Alto Adige region in northernmost Italy are fiercely loyal to Schiava, and rightly so, as it is one of the world’s few remaining reds that can truthfully be designated as “light-bodied” in the post-Parker era marked also by global warming.  This rendition shows lovely red fruit notes recalling pie cherries, with just the right acidity and a slight savory undertone to keep this from seeming grapey or obvious.  The fine-grained tannins are perfectly tuned to the light weight of the fruit, which may seem a little simple when you first taste it, but as you return to your glass, you’ll find that the wine’s purity will win you over.      
93 Michael Franz Apr 4, 2023

Abbazia di Novacella, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Nero Riserva "Praepositus" 2003 ($47, Vias Imports): Pinot Noir is a notoriously fickle grape variety that winemakers transform into ethereal red wine in only a few places in the world: Burgundy, parts of California and Oregon, and parts of New Zealand.  Imagine my surprise when I tasted this beautiful example from northern Italy.  It has what I consider the hallmark of wine made from Pinot Noir, richness without weight mixed with earthy, non-fruit flavors.  The 2003 vintage undoubtedly contributed to the ripeness, but it's so beautifully balanced, you'd never guess it weighs in at 14% alcohol. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2007

Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2005 ($20, Banville & Jones): Some of the finest Pinot Blancs come from northern Italy, and this rendition is an excellent example.  Medium-bodied, it offers delicate, nuanced flavors reminiscent first of crisp apples and pears, second of stony minerals, and then finally a hint of honey.  Moreover, the wine is beautifully balanced and wonderfully long on the palate.  Delectable! 91 Paul Lukacs Mar 6, 2007

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Nero Krafuss Estate 2006 ($50, Dalla Terra):  Grapes for this light and delicate Pinot Noir come from the 1,650 feet Krafuss Vineyard in Alto Adige.  The wine underwent fermentation and extended maceration for 18 days in stainless steel tanks and then was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.  Even with the extended maceration, the color is a light-medium ruby-garnet with brown edges.  The nose displays forward black cherry and black tea aromas with hints of roasted nuts, while the flavors are medium cherry-berry fruit with boiled tea accents, 13.5% alcohol and a medium finish.  The Lageder Pinot Noir is a subtle and textured departure from the lusher more fruit-forward Pinots of California, Oregon and New Zealand. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 17, 2010

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Lagrein Lindenburg 2004 ($30, Dalla Terra):  Lagrein is a deeply-colored, often tannic, grape native to a small area of Alto Adige.  Used by many wineries as a blending component with Pinot Noir, for added color and structure, Lagrein can be a mouthful.  The Lageder version from the Lindenburg Vineyard shows his measured approach.  Tank fermented and aged in French oak barrels, the Lindenburg Pinot Noir has a lovely mulberry color, low intensity ripe berry and spice nose, textured berry flavors with mocha and earthy accents, good acidity, 13.2% alcohol and a long finish.  Lagrein would stand up nicely with California Petite Sirah and South African Pinotage. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 17, 2010

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2007 ($22, Banville & Jones): Cantina Terlan is an Alto Adige cooperative that specializes in white wines of impeccable balance and harmony.  This Pinot Bianco (or Pinot Blanc) is a case in point.  Its full fruit, spice, and mineral flavors are precisely focused, so the wine tastes both refreshing and riveting.  Incidentally, Terlan's whites age improbably well, and this wine may well become even more compelling with a few years of cellaring. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 24, 2009

Abbazia di Novacella, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Nero 2007 ($27, Vias Imports):  Very well made, this may well earn a higher score as it ages and develops, which it almost certainly will on account of superior balance.  The wine is very light and indeed transparent in color, with tart cherry aromas and flavors and a nice spicy edge, with good acidity.  Wood notes are very subtle, and the light tannins are very well balanced against the fruit.  The maceration was apparently quite judicious, used by the winemaking team to give the wine structure but not trying to wring more out of the fruit than the grapes had to offer. 89 Michael Franz Dec 1, 2009

Cantina Bolzano, Alto Adige (Italy) "Rosso" 2005 ($13, Summa Vitis): Alto Adige, the northernmost part of Italy, produces wonderful, light-bodied, lively reds such as this Rosso, a blend of two local grapes, Lagrein and Schiava. The '05 has fresh berry flavors, lots of acidity, and enough tannins to complement hearty pastas. 89 Ed McCarthy Jul 24, 2007

Elena Walch, Alto Adige (Italy) Lagrein Castel Ringberg Riserva 2019 ($56):  As a writer who has met owners and visited properties, I often want to like a wine a little more than what I taste in the glass – especially one that comes from such a lovely venue as this one with winemakers to match.  This wine is a very harmonious with creamy dark-berry fruits and a bit of a tang in the finish, but I was expecting, and didn’t get, more depth of flavors and complexities than I experienced.     
89 Roger Morris Nov 14, 2023

Krafuss, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Noir Krafuss 2003 ($35, Alois Lageder USA): The Krafuss Vineyard stands at an altitude of 1,650 feet, providing an ideal cool mesoclimate for growing elegant Pinot Noir. Tank fermentation, extended maceration and 12 months aging in French oak yielded a pinot with a medium prune-red color, deep cherry-berry and spice aroma and slightly restrained cherry-berry and spice flavors, refined tannins and good length. This modest stylized Pinot Noir calls out for  food. 89 Gerald D. Boyd May 29, 2007

Tramin Kellerei, Alto Adige (Italy) Schiava 2021 ($17, Winebow):  While typically light-bodied, Tramin Kellerei's Schiava is a more-refined version for this pleasant, quaffing style northern Italian red.  Pale colored with a tangy, slightly gamey flavor, it has an almost silky texture with an almost creamy cherry-flavored finish.  Light-bodied, light tannins, long on the palate, it is a pleasant sipping wine.        
89 Roger Morris Nov 21, 2023

Erste + Neue Kellerei, Alto Adige (Italy) Lagrein 2021 ($21, Oliver McCrum):  Lagrein is a bit of a weird bird varietal in that at times is can taste like a red fruit/black fruit wine from Bordeaux while at other times it has a wild fruitiness that is a taste all its own.  At times, it reminds me a bit of the French-American hybrid, Chambourcin, or a Pinotage.  Here, it is more of the latter, with gamey and intense elderberry and plummy fruitiness, a medium-weight body and slightly bitter tannins with a tart finish.      
88 Roger Morris Nov 21, 2023

Valle Isarco, Alto Adige (Italy) Vernatsch 2022 ($21):  In the mixture of Austrian and Italian cultures and languages that is Alto Adige or Sudtirol, this winery goes with the German name Vernatsch as opposed to the Italian name Schiava.  This version is lively, light and spicy, with red cherry fruit and a crisp finish.  However, the finish itself comes off as a tad too sweet / fruity for the rest of the wine.         
88 Roger Morris Nov 21, 2023

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Lagrein Lindenburg 2003 ($27, Alois Lageder USA): Legrein, a red grape grown almost exclusively in Alto Adige, has an image problem outside Northern Italy, similar to that endured by South Africa's Pinotage.  More specifically, Legrein can be rustic and slightly bitter, often making it a better blending component than a stand-alone varietal.  This deeply colored Lagrein shows ripe plum and spice back notes with earthy accents.  The flavors are big with full tannins, traces of bitterness and hints of tar, dried fruits and floral notes.  The firm tannins and concentrated fruit give the wine a rustic dimension; however it does have length and plenty of fruit. 87 Gerald D. Boyd May 29, 2007

Tolloy, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Noir 2007 ($13, Prestige Wine Imports): This easy-to-like Pinot has a spicy/woody aroma, with lots of red fruit, along with a light red-berry color.  In the mouth it has bright red cherry fruit, with a touch of vanilla.  At just 12.5% alcohol (when's the last time you saw that number on a California Pinot Noir label?), the wine is light, fruity and a good partner for red-sauced pasta. 86 Tina Caputo Apr 14, 2009

Cantina Andrian, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Lagrein Riserva “Tor di Lupo” 2018 ($60, Banville Wine Merchants):  I love Alto Adige…and I love Lagrein…and I’ve admired multiple wines from this house — but even allowing for all of that, I thought this was utterly fabulous.  The aromas and flavors are remarkably pure and poised, making this seem like a wine that really WAS made in the vineyard rather than the cellar, which of course everyone claims regardless of the plausibility of the claim.  Still nearly opaque despite being only a medium-bodied wine, it is wonderfully concentrated and flavorful with striking flavor impact, yet very soft texture.  Energetic acidity makes all this work so that the wine stays light on its feet — but still with terrific punch and a very long, symmetrical finish.  Exciting wine — perfectly ripened and tastefully wrought.  This seems to be a relative rarity, with very few retailers offering the wine, but it is well worth a search.  And for the record, I put my money where my mouth is in this review, and tracked several bottles down for my cellar.  
94 Michael Franz Apr 4, 2023

Kurtatsch, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Schiava Sonntaler Alte Reben 2019 ($30, Vineyard Brands):  Although the variety is almost unknown in the USA, many residents and wine trade members in the gorgeous region of Alto Adige in the far north of Italy love Schiava for its delicacy and excellence as a partner for many foods.  This is the perfect wine to offer a case in point.  (The region is stubbornly bilingual, having been ceded to Italy after it helped defeat the Austro-Hungarian Empire in World War I, so it is worth pointing out that the region is called Südtirol in German and the grape variety also called Vernatsch — as on this bottle — and Trollinger more commonly in Germany; “Alte Reben” is German for “old vines.”)  But enough already with the preliminaries!  This is light in color as well as palate weight, but offers lovely aromas and flavors centered on fruit notes recalling red cherries but accented with subtle savory undertones.  These notes combine to produce a wine that is fruity but far from obvious in its fruitiness, with lots of understated details that can express themselves precisely because nothing about the wine overwhelms its other sensory signals.  For example, any wood that might have been involved in the wine’s upbringing shows only indirectly, perhaps by offering some oxidative maturity; there is nothing overtly spicy or toasty or “woody” about the wine.  What is most impressive is the wine’s essentially perfect tannin balance, with just enough tannic grip to provide structure and a sensory contrast to the tenderness of the fruit.  At $30, this is a steal, and a wine that offers such delicacy that it can “out-Pinot” most renditions of Pinot Noir in this respect.       
93 Michael Franz Dec 7, 2021

Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Noir "Rolhüt" 2017 ($18, HB Wine Merchants):  A delicate aroma profile of subtle cherry, strawberry, roses and soft spice lead to a bright palate with moderate weight and full-flavored expression of the nose elements, with a finish that intrigues and begs another sip.  An absolute steal at this price! 
91 Rich Cook Jul 3, 2018

St. Paul's, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Lagrein 2016 ($25): Once upon a time Lagrein was a bit of a mean wine, often showing biting acidity and hard, green tannins. The cool climate in the foothills of the Alps certainly was a factor, but lazy farming contributed to the frequent flaw of under ripe grapes. Viticulture has improved remarkably over the past few decades and modern techniques in the vineyard and the cellar have paved the way for Lagrein to deliver its true character consistently despite sometimes adverse conditions. The 2016 St. Paul's is dark and inky, with a spicy black pepper nose and succulent ripe blackberry and boysenberry flavors on the palate. The tannins are nicely integrated and the wine exhibits exquisite balance. Serve it with winter stews, or slightly chilled with grilled meats in warmer months. 91 Robert Whitley Jan 2, 2018

Muri-Gries, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Lagrein 2021 ($23, Potomac Selections):  Muri-Gries is located in the early 19th-century Muri-Gries Monastery situated in the town of Bolzano.  As if that isn’t enough history, this rustic red is made from Lagrein, an even older grape varietal dating back as early as 1370.  Even stranger, DNA testing has been inconclusive about Lagrein’s parentage, narrowing it down to a natural cross of Teroldego and some unknown variety.  Muri-Gries makes this wine in both stainless steel and large wooden barrels to minimize imparting any additional flavors.  The wine is driven by dark black and blue fruit with tobacco leaf, earthy mushroom, fig, and old leather.  Its flavor complexity is ideal for enjoying this bottle while reading a book or sharing a charcuterie board with friends.       
90 Vince Simmon May 30, 2023

Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012 ($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): The name of the DOC -- either Alto Adige or Südtirol -- reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria.  But this is a singularly appealing wine.  Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity.  Girlan’s 2012 is a fine example.  Thick and juicy, with more black fruit than red, smooth tannins and invigorating acidity makes it easy -- and a joy -- to drink now with hearty pasta dishes or even a steak.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2015

Cantina Kaltern, Kalterersee Classico Superiore DOC (Alto Adige, Italy) “Quintessenz” 2017 ($34, Enotec Imports, Inc):  Since this DOC is not well-known to most Americans (I had to run to the reference books), a little background.  The DOC is named for a large lake that lies within Alto Adige.  “Classico,” as usual in the Italian DOC nomenclature, refers to the original or heart of the area.  “Superiore” means the grapes, 85 percent of which must be Schiava, are a touch riper.  Cantina Kaltern, a 100-plus year-old co-operative, now has 65 member and controls over 1,000 acres.  “Quintessenz” is a label they use for their upper end wines.  This mid-weight red speaks of dried, rather than freshly picked, cherries, giving it a lovely austerity, as opposed to an in-your-face flamboyance.  Polished tannins lend needed structure without being intrusive.  A refined wine, it would be a good choice for pasta and meat sauce tonight.      
91 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2021

Eisacktaler Kellerei, Sudtirol (Alto Adige, Italy) Lagrein 2008 ($19, Vinity Wine Company):  Lagrein is indigenous to the South Tyrol and this example, grown in the gravelly soils near Bolzano is a very good representative.  Deep purple-ruby hues lead to up-front scents of ripe cherry with subtle floral back notes.  It has good texture, slightly rustic plum-like fruit flavors, medium refined tannins, 13% alcohol and a satisfying finish.  Priced right, this juicy Italian red is just right with summer grills. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 25, 2010

Muri-Gries, Südtirol (Alto Adige, Italy) Lagrein "Abtei Muri" 2012 ($43, Polaner Selections): Lagrein is a secret passion for lovers of rich but still pure and lively reds.  The best Lagrein bottlings somehow combine astonishing power with style and grace.  The Muri-Gries Lagrein Riserva is drawn from the best blocks of high elevation, old vine Lagrein vineyards.  This is a rich and complex red.  Lovely aromas of blackberry, black cherry and blackcurrant are enhanced by elements of violets, smoke, earth and herbs.  The flavors are pure and enticing, with layers of ripe black fruits given lift by a hint of raspberry and exotic herb and spice tones.  The wine has an intense, nearly creamy texture that reflects its old-vine heritage.  It can easily age for another 10 years.  The secret is out -- but don’t tell anyone until you get some Lagrein for yourself.
95 Wayne Belding Apr 5, 2016

Cantina Colterenzio, Sudtirol - Alto Adige Riserva DOC (Italy) Pinot Nero - Blauburgunder “St. Daniel” 2016 ($19, Haw River Wine Man):  The dual name of the Sudtirol - Alto Adige DOC wine region in northeastern Italy reflects its Austrian-Italian identity.  Cantina Colterenzio is a co-operative winery like many wine producers in the area.  It was created in 1960 by a group of 26 growers.  One of the founders of the group was Luis Raifer, whose early study trip to California inspired him with ideas about the untapped potential for this region to produce high quality wines.  He modeled his vision of lower yields with higher quality grapes by replanting one of his vineyards with non-traditional for the region Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc.  Today there are 300 members of the co-op making wines from many different grape varieties.  This Pinot Noir was produced from 15- to 20-year-old vines grown at heights between 755 to 2130 feet.  Clearly a cool climate Pinot with delicate cherry, strawberry, raspberry fruit with wood spice, floral and vanilla notes.  It is tightly structured with nervy acidity and polished tannins.  It can easily balance the effect of an unctuous steak or handle the delicate task of serving as complement for grilled salmon.   
90 Rebecca Murphy Dec 17, 2019

Cantina Terlano, Südtirol / Alto Adige (Italy) Lagrein "Porphyr" Riserva 2014 ($45, Banville Wine Merchants):  Lagrein is a grape grown mostly in the Trentino / Alto Adige region of northern Italy.  Its best renditions are sought after by lovers of rich, but still pure and lively reds.  The best Lagrein bottlings, like this one, combine astonishing power with style and grace.  The Cantina Terlano is one of the world’s leading cooperative wineries.  Founded in 1893, they work with their member growers to produce the best fruit possible.  The 2014 Terlano Porphyr Lagrein Riserva is drawn from the best sites in the winery’s Lagrein vineyards.  This is a rich and complex red.  Lovely aromas of blackberry, black cherry and black currant are enhanced by elements of violets, vanilla, smoke, earth and herbs.  The flavors are pure and enticing, with layers of ripe black fruits given lift by a hint of raspberry and exotic herb and spice tones.  The wine has an intense, nearly creamy texture that reflects an old-vine heritage.  It can easily age for another 10 years.  
94 Wayne Belding Jul 9, 2019

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Nero “Praepositus” 2004 ($42, Vias Imports):

My recent trip to Alto Adige convinced me that Pinot Noir is a very successful variety in this region, clearly better than any other regions in Italy growing Pinot Noir.  The 2004 Abbazia Pino Nero Praepositus is very fine, quite full-bodied and rich, but not as over-the-top as so many overly fruity New World Pinots.  The wine exudes class and breed.

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Lagrein “Praepositus” 2003 ($40, Vias Imports): Lagrein is an indigenous, chunky-fruited, rather rustic variety which seldom grows outside of Alto Adige.  Even here, it thrives only in the relatively warm vineyards around Bolzano.  The 2003 Abbazia Lagrein Praepositus is dry and full-bodied, very dark ruby in color, with aromas of violets and black fruit  along with intense, tart blackberry flavors.  An enticing wine with its own unique flavors.  (The standard 2006 Abbazia Lagrein sells for $25). 92 Ed McCarthy Jun 26, 2007

Rosé:

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Lagrein Rosato 2005 ($14, Dalla Terra Imports): Italian rosés are invariably characterful, with lots of flavor -- and always dry. Alois Lageder makes a fine Lagrein, one of Italy's most underrated dry red wines, and recently he has added a dry Lagrein rosé to his portfolio. His 2005 Rosato is very dry, with spicy aromas typical of this variety, and has lots of personality. Perfect for warm summer evening dinners, either with fish or poultry. 89 Ed McCarthy Jun 13, 2006

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Lagrein Rosé 2005 ($16, Banville & Jones): An impressive rosé, made from the intriguing Lagrein grape, this wine offers plenty of red berry flavors but never seems sappy - that being a problem with many rosés these days.  Instead, it tastes clean and bright, and is above all refreshing.  The 2006 should arrive on these shores shortly, but this 2005 still has plenty of life left. 89 Paul Lukacs Apr 10, 2007

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Lagrein Rosé 2021 ($26, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cantina Terlano is one of the best cooperative wineries in the world.  Founded in 1893, it has access to some of the best vineyard sites in the Alto Adige.  While best known for their Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio-base whites, their Lagrein Rosé is delightful as well.  The 2021 vintage is a juicy and expressive rosé.  The enjoyment starts with its vibrant pink color and proceeds to aromas of red cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruits backed by hints of flowers and orange peel.  Bright and juicy on the palate, its zesty cherry and berry flavors are underscored by the orange zest and spice tones.  The finish is clean, dry and refreshing.           
91 Wayne Belding Jan 24, 2023

Elena Walch, Vigneti delle Dolomiti (Alto Adige, Italy) “20/26 Rosato” 2020 ($20, Walch USA):  Elena Walch is a highly-regarded Alto Adige wine estate.  Their Rosato is a saignée blend of Lagrein, Pinot Noir and Merlot.  The 20/26 name refers to the ripeness of the grapes (20º Babo – a sugar measure) and cool fermentation temperature (26º Celsius).  The newly-arrived 2020 vintage is a juicy and expressive rosé.  The enjoyment starts with aromas of red cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruits backed by hints of flowers and citrus peel.  Bright and juicy on the palate, its zesty cherry and strawberry flavors are underscored by the orange zest and spice tones.  The finish is clean, dry and refreshing.  This fresh rosé will be a fine match for lighter warm-weather fare as well as grilled foods.            
90 Wayne Belding May 11, 2021

Sparkling:

Casata Monfort, Trento (Trento-Alto Adige, Italy) Riserva 2011 ($50):  Consumers mistakenly believe that all bubbly coming from Italy is Prosecco.  Not so.  There’s fine sparkling wine from Franciacorta and this stunning one reminds us not to forget Trento.  A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the traditional grapes of Champagne, it has a fine bead of acidity that gives it a great spine. Not boisterous or tropical, it’s finesse-filled and persistent.  The Riserva designation means it was aged a minimum of 36 months before release and helps explain is suaveness and balance.  It doesn’t shout, but you hear it very clearly.  Ideal as a traditional stand-alone celebratory drink, its brightness refreshes the palate during a meal of grilled sea bass. 
93 Michael Apstein Jun 19, 2018

White:

Tiefenbrünner, Alto Adige (Italy) Müller Thurgau Feldmarschall 2006 ($38, Winebow): Müller Thurgau is a rather boring variety in its native Germany, but it makes an exciting wine in Tiefenbrünner's Feldmarschall Vineyard, perched up at 3,000 (!) feet in altitude, in southern Alto Adige--certainly one of the highest vineyards in the world.  Planted in 1972, with some re-planting in 1987, the Tiefenbrünner Feldmarschall is generally regarded to make the world's best Müller Thurgau wine.  The 2006 has tons of minerality, pronounced floral aromas, and really good acidity.  According to Christof Tiefenbrünnner, its acidity is the key.  Müller Thurgau wines made at lower elevations tend to be flabby and neutral in flavor.  The 2006 is available now, but it needs time.  A 2004 Feldmarschall that I tasted was even better.  Christof says that his wine is best at three to five years old.  Only 1500 bottles (but fully one-third of the total) come to the U.S. 96 Ed McCarthy Jun 26, 2007

Cantina Valle Isarco, Alto Adige (Italy) Kerner "Aristos" 2018 ($16):  The idyllic, high Alpine Isarco Valley offers one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Alto Adige, majestic mountains frame a vibrant green landscape dappled by chalet-style farmhouses, roaming cattle, castles, monasteries, chestnut groves and terraced vineyards enclosed within neat low stone walls.  The vineyards of the wine are managed completely by hand along the steep slopes located at about 3,100 feet.  The unique climate of this region balances hot summer days with very cool, fresh nights with light, gravelly soils rich in minerals that contribute to a unique vibrancy in the wine the 2018 Kerner is like silk-wrapped lightning in a bottle.  Smooth and finessed with high notes of citrus, yellow apple, and mountain flowers, this wine with its linear brightness bolstered by alluring complexity.   
95 Jessica Dupuy Oct 8, 2019

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio Porer 2018 ($17):  The Lageder family has been making wines in Alto Adige since 1823 and today is led by the sixth generation, Clemens and Helena Lageder where biodynamic farming is a central part of the wine.  The family owns more than 135 acres of biodynamic certified vineyards and more than half of their 80 contract growers throughout the region are also biodynamic.  For the Lageders, wine should not be grown in a monoculture, but rather in a region of agricultural biodiversity.   Lucky for them, Alto Adige supplies up to 50% of the national Italian apple market.  However, they have also forged a transhumance  partnership with the local cheesemaker, allowing the dairy cows to graze in their vineyards in the winter, while in the summer the cows return to the mountain plains.  The wines of Alois Lageder reflect the commitment to purity and authenticity the family puts forth in both the vineyard and the cellar.  The 2018 Porer Pinot Grigio is a perfect example of this.  A blend of three different aging processes from classic to skin contact and whole cluster maceration.  A beautiful expression of on often dismissed grape variety.  This wine offers notes of green melon, citrus peel, yellow apple, and a hint of bitter almond.  Though fresh and crisp, the structure of this wine has a bit of grip that brings an added depth.   
94 Jessica Dupuy Oct 8, 2019

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Gewurztraminer “Lunare” 2004 ($55, Banville & Jones): This is a stunning wine.  With some 70% of the blend aged in wood, it tastes rich and luscious, though shows scant evidence of oak flavor.  The bouquet, opulent and exotic, takes Gewurztraminer's sensuous rose and spice character to new heights, and the flavors then seem to explode on the palate.  Yet while certainly big and powerful, the wine remains balanced and focused, and so seems wonderfully graceful.  Barely off-dry, it has the stuffing to pair with rich, cream-sauced dishes, and surely will turn heads if served to even the most jaded connoisseur.  As I said, stunning. 94 Paul Lukacs Apr 10, 2007

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2004 ($27, Banville & Jones): This multi-layered, rich but at the same time refined Pinot Bianco demonstrates that this grape, often dismissed as pedestrian, is in fact capable of yielding truly regal wines.  Cantina Terlan is one of Alto Adige's finest producers, and this single vineyard offering can more than hold its own with top white Burgundies that cost three or four times as much.  In addition, past vintages have shown the ability to age gracefully for decades.  Stupendous stuff. 94 Paul Lukacs Apr 10, 2007

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco Riserva "Vorberg" 2020 ($56, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cantina Terlano is a small cooperative winery in the Alto Adige region of Italy.  They make wines from some of the best vineyards in the region.  The Vorberg vineyard is a steeply-sloping site at a 1500-2000 foot elevation.  It routinely yields wines of impressive power and depth, as evidenced by this one.  It offers a beautiful display of varietal purity with aromas of peach, pear, pineapple and guava fruits backed by floral and spice hints.  The layered fruit character on the palate results in a seductive, full and creamy texture that enhances the rich fruit.  This lovely white will change your mind about Pinot Bianco.  It has the capacity to cellar well for another 5 to 8 years and beyond.       
94 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2016 ($17, Banville Wine Merchants):  A fantastic value.  Crisp and very lively, with a racy edge coupled with a soothing finish, this Pinot Grigio does what woefully few northern Italian examples manage to do.  It tastes both compelling and complex. 
94 Paul Lukacs Apr 17, 2018

Elena Walch, Alto Adige (Italy) Gewurztraminer Vigna "Kastelaz" 2018 ($30):  Located in the charming town of Tramin, the alleged birthplace of Gewürztraminer, the Walch family have a history of winemaking that spans 150 years.  While Alto Adige was once considered a wine region focused more on producing large quantities of wine, Elena Walch was one of the pioneers of transitioning the focus to quality.  By reducing yields, changing trellising systems to VSP, and paying attention to suitable varieties for the region, she was one of the first to encourage a new identity for the region.  The Elena Walch Gewürztraminer is reputed for its alluring aromatics and surprisingly crisp, dry palate.  The 2018 Vigna Kastelaz Gewürztraminer is a true beauty, with notes of peaches, summer flowers, and faint ginger and a palate that is silken, yet crisp, a result of harvesting some grapes earlier in the growing season before harvesting the rest to retain natural acidity in the wine.   
94 Jessica Dupuy Oct 8, 2019

Kellerei / Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2016 ($28):  With a history dating back to 1893, the historic cooperative Cantina Terlan manages 420 acres of vineyard among 143 growers throughout the region.  Terlano is a wine-growing village located halfway between South Tyrol’s main towns of Merano and Bolzano where the Adige river flows through a wide valley in a south-easterly direction.  The village and vineyards nestle against the red porphyry rock of Monte Tschöggl on the left side of the valley.  One of the region’s premier producers, Cantina Terlan excels with white varieties, with this Vorberg Riserva Pinot Bianco being an exceptional example.  Offering notes of golden pear, ripe peach and pie crust, this wine leads with a vibrant lift and deepens in structure with pleasing creaminess.  
94 Jessica Dupuy Oct 8, 2019

Nals Margreid, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Sirmian” 2018 ($34):  This “Sirmian” bottling from Nals Margreid is among the best Pinot Bianco examples from Alto Adige.  The proprietary name is derived from a renowned winegrowing area with very complex soils at a lofty elevation, and this wine’s minerality and complexity are consistently excellent as a result.  Notes of apple pie filling with tinges of freshly squeezed citrus juice and undertones of tropical fruit make this a generously flavored, showy wine, but experience has proved that it is as age-worthy as it is flashy in its youth.  Old vines and extended aging on fine yeast lees also help to explain this wine’s intricacy.  Although this top-tier bottling from an excellent producer is among the more pricey Pinot Biancos, it is worth the money, and you’ll only need one bottle to be convinced of that.          
94 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio Giatl Riserva 2017 ($38, HB Wine Merchants):  Peter Zemmer’s single-vineyard Giatl is a very different style of Pinot Grigio from his regular (I hate that word to describe that wine, which is anything but regular) bottling.  The Giatl has power and a Burgundian-like weight and to it.  A hint of lanolin-like texture makes it all the more appealing.  This is weighty serious stuff.  Those looking for a glass of “Pinot Grigio” should look elsewhere.  Those who want to see what the grape can achieve should pull the cork.      
94 Michael Apstein May 12, 2020

Cantina Bolzano, Alto Adige (Italy) Kerner 2016 ($20):  Kerner is a grape variety rarely scene outside of northern Italy and that’s a bit of a mystery because Kerner makes very interesting, delicious white wine. Planted on the slopes of Mount Renon in the Isarco Valley, the Cantina Bolzano Kerner expresses stony minerality, luscious notes of peach, tangerine and honeysuckle, with bright acidity and impressive length. Clean and refreshing, serve with light appetizers or simply as an aperitif.
93 Robert Whitley Dec 19, 2017

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco "Vorberg" Riserva 2014 ($36, Banville Wine Merchants):  Apricots, peaches, and more form a veritable fruit salad of aromas and flavors, enhanced by floral notes and a mineral-rich finish.  A stunning wine! 93 Paul Lukacs May 9, 2017

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Sauvignon “Quartz” 2010 ($55, Banville & Jones):  I haven’t tasted this wine for several vintages, but tasting it once again provided a powerful reminder that it is one of the world’s premier renditions of Sauvignon Blanc.  Beware, though, that it isn’t a lean, little wine, but rather a broadly textured and amply weighted drink based on fruit notes recalling melons and stone fruits, with zesty citrus notes around the edges and a pronounced minerality in the finish.  Mature but far from played out, this will actually develop in a positive direction for another couple of years.  Bloody impressive. 93 Michael Franz Nov 27, 2012

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2011 ($33, Banville & Jones): Cantina Terlano is a reliable producer of exotic and appealing wines.  The Vorberg vineyard is a steeply sloping site rising from about one to three thousand feet in elevation.  It routinely yields wines of impressive power and depth, as evidenced by this one.  It offers a full package of varietal purity with aromas of peach, pear, pineapple and guava fruits backed by floral and spice hints. The multilayered fruit character results in a is seductively rich and creamy texture . This lovely white will change your mind about Pinot Bianco.  It has the capacity to cellar well for another ten years or more, getting richer and deeper in color and style as it ages.
93 Wayne Belding Mar 31, 2015

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020 ($21, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cantina Terlano is a reliable producer of rich and appealing wines.  Founded in 1893, it has access to some of the best vineyard sites in the Alto Adige.  Combined with meticulous care in the winery, the result is wines like this outstanding 2020 Pinot Grigio.  While there are relative oceans of nondescript Pinot Grigio produced in northern Italy, this one stands out for concentration, purity and absolute quality.  The Terlano 2020 offers lovely aromas of peach, pear and pineapple fruits backed by floral, cream and spice hints.  The rich fruit unfolds in a cascade of ripe flavors across the palate, ending with a clean and refreshing finish.   The texture is seductively rich and creamy.  This lovely Pinot Grigio Is an extraordinarily versatile food companion as well.        
93 Wayne Belding Jun 28, 2022

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Tradition” 2021 ($26, Banville Wine Merchants):  This is one of the best white wines in all of Italy, which is almost as remarkable as the fact that it is only the 2nd best Pinot Bianco from Cantina Terlano.  It sits a tier below the “Vorberg Riserva” Pinot Bianco, which is among the best white wines in the entire world, with an ability to improve for as many as 20 years (not just hang on, but improve).  I buy both wines in almost every vintage, enjoying them differently and not really thinking of them as being in competition with one another.  This “little brother” isn’t all that little, as it is medium-bodied and full of flavor, with subtle aromas but satisfying flavors recalling ripe pears and baked apples.  It always seems soft but still energetic, thanks to exceptionally well-integrated acidity.  The wine displays this integration from when it is first released, demonstrating that time is not to be credited but rather exceptionally skillful growing, harvesting, winemaking and bottling.  I’ve never served this to anyone who didn’t love it.           
93 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2023

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco "Tradition" 2022 ($26, Banville Wine Merchants):  This newest release of one of my favorite wines is just hitting store shelves, so I’m also reviewing the more widely available 2021.  The two are equally delicious in their different ways.  This is the zestier of the two, with a freshness that makes it seem almost “crackly” on the palate, whereas the 2021 is broader and creamier in the impression it conveys.  As Cantina Terlano is among Italy’s best and most consistent wine producers, I hesitate to even mention that it is a cooperative, as that will make as many readers wonder about its caliber as those who will be especially impressed.  I, for one, am hugely impressed.  As my WRO colleague Wayne Belding MS has noted many times, Pinot Bianco is badly underestimated.  Too many are bland or juked up with oak to “Chardonnize” them, but fine examples from Alto Adige, Collio, Slovenia, southern Austria and Germany are truly marvelous.  Alsace has slipped below all these other sources, though its renditions were by far the most famous not long ago.  One last point worth noting is that excellent Pinot Bianco / Pinot Blanc is phenomenally versatile at the table, deserving your close attention if you…eat.  You do eat, right?        
93 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2023

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022 ($21, Banville Wine Merchants):  Although Pinot Grigio bottlings are now ubiquitous in the market, most are much simpler wines than the best examples from the Alto Adige of northern Italy.  Cantina Terlano Pinot Grigio defines the classic style of the grape for me.  Founded in 1893, this small cooperative winery has access to some of the best vineyard sites in the Alto Adige.  The result is wines like this outstanding 2022 Pinot Grigio, a wine that displays the glorious fruit of a ripe vintage and the winemaking skill of an experienced producer.  Cantina Terlano’s Pinot Grigio stands out for concentration, purity and absolute quality.  It shows opulent scents of peach, pear and tropical fruits backed by floral, cream and spice hints.  Layers of ripe fruit flavors unfold across the palate, enhanced by the cream and spice nuances and a clean and refreshing finish.   It has a creamy texture characteristic of the best Pinot Grigios.  If you want to know why Pinot Grigio became popular in the first place, try this standard for classic Alto Adige Pinot Grigio.          
93 Wayne Belding Feb 6, 2024

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2016 ($19, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cantina Terlano is a reliable producer of rich and appealing wines.  Founded in 1893, it has access to some of the best vineyard sites in the Alto Adige.  Combined with meticulous care in the winery, the result is wines like this outstanding 2016 Pinot Bianco.  This might change your mind about this oft-overlooked variety.  The Terlan 2016 is resplendent with aromas of peach, pear, pineapple and guava fruits backed by floral and spice hints.  The rich fruit unfolds in a cascade of ripe flavors across the palate, ending with a clean and refreshing finish.   The texture is seductively rich and creamy. This lovely Pinot Bianco has the capacity to cellar well for another five years or more, getting richer and deeper in color and style as it ages.  It’s an extraordinarily versatile food companion as well. 
93 Wayne Belding Mar 6, 2018

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2021 ($21, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cantina Terlano makes many wines, but their Pinot Grigio is consistently outstanding.  Founded in 1893, this small cooperative winery has access to some of the best vineyard sites in the Alto Adige.  Combined with meticulous care in the winery, the result is wines like this outstanding 2021 Pinot Grigio.  While there is a profusion of nondescript Pinot Grigio produced in northern Italy, the Cantina Terlano wine stands out for concentration, purity and absolute quality.  It offers lovely aromas of peach, pear and pineapple fruits backed by floral, cream and spice hints.  The rich fruit offers layers of ripe flavors that flow across the palate, ending with a clean and refreshing finish.  It has a creamy texture characteristic of the best Pinot Grigios.  The Cantina Terlano sets the standard for classic Alto Adige Pinot Grigio.     
93 Wayne Belding Sep 5, 2023

Cantina Tramin, Alto Adige (Italy) Gewurztraminer Nussbaumer 2014 ($35, Winebow):  The glory of Gewürztraminer is clearly evidenced in this bottle.  From the steep vineyards of the Alto Adige overlooking Lake Garda, it reveals a depth and purity of flavor that is truly admirable.  The Nussbaumer site benefits from breezes off the lake that extend the growing season, allowing greater flavor development in the grapes.  Luscious aromas of fresh flowers, apricots, lychee and guava are underlain by nuances of exotic spice.  On the palate, it is equally pure and invigorating with the vibrant panoply of fruits playing out across the palate in a delicious cascade of honeyed, juicy ripeness.  The exotic fruit nuances linger nicely in the long, dry finish.  Serve it with your favorite stir-fry recipe.  It will add delicious enjoyment to the meal. 93 Wayne Belding Oct 24, 2017

Elena Walch, Alto Adige (Italy) Gewürztraminer 2021 ($24, Wilson Daniels):  One of the leading names in Alto Adige, Elena Walch reminds us there is more from this region than Pinot Grigio.  Here is a Gewurztraminer that can hold its own against a classic Alsatian.  Light straw yellow, it has an aromatic mix of rose petal, lychee nut and lemon custard.  On the palate, it is medium full bodied, round with plenty of ripe melon and citrus flavors.  Throughout it has the telltale Gewurz spiciness, and that continues well into the long finish.  It ends with a pleasing tingle of acidity.       
93 Norm Roby Apr 11, 2023

Elena Walch, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco Kristallberg 2019 ($28):  This is a terrific rendition of Pinot Bianco sourced from a vineyard site perched above 1,800 feet of elevation.  I tasted this 2019 side-by-side with the 2018 vintage, and both were equally good, so don’t hesitate to purchase the slightly older wine if you see it on offer.  The 2019 is a bit richer than the norm for the wines in this category that are available in the USA, but there’s nothing “heavy” or ponderous about it — just generous fruit that is deftly interlaced with energizing acidity.  Fruit notes recalling baked golden apples with a squeeze of citrus acidity.        
93 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

Kettmeir, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2019 ($22, SM USA):  The 2019 rendition of this wine is very impressive — rich, flavorful, and very persistent in its finish for this grape variety.  It shows a riper, more dramatic flavor profile than some comparably prices releases such as the “Merus” bottling from Tiefenbrunner, with fruit that recalls melons and stone fruits with less citrus tang and a touch of tropical fruit.  However, there’s plenty of acidity to keep this fresh and lifted through the finish, though it is so well folded into the fruit that this seems quite seamless and rounded.  There’s also a hint of citrus pith bitterness in the finish, but I found that very pleasant and beneficial for the wine’s overall complexity.         
93 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

Abbazia di Novacella, Alto Adige (Italy) Kerner 2004 ($18, Vias Imports): The dramatically beautiful Abbazia di Novacella, a working monastery, is the northernmost winery in Italy, high up in the Dolomite Mountains. The winery specializes in white varietal wines, mainly Germanic, plus the few reds that can accommodate the climate. Of all of its white wines, the little-known Kerner is the most appealing to me. The 2004 Kerner is just super. It has crispness, great acidity, and delicious lemony, floral aromas and flavors. One of my favorite Italian white wines. 92 Ed McCarthy Apr 26, 2006

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco Haberle 2006 ($18, Dalla Terra Imports): Alois Lageder has led the way importing Alto Adige wines into the U.S., and his best-known wine might be his exceptional Pinot Bianco from the Haberlehof Vineyard, now shortened on the label to 'Haberle.'  This was the first Pinot Blanc wine that convinced  me that this variety can make exceptional wines in the right terroir.  The 2006 Haberle is dry, clean and crisp, with aromas and flavors of tart apple and white peach, which linger on the palate.  Lageder also makes a standard Pinot Bianco for $5 less, but the Haberle Vineyard has considerably more concentrated flavors and is worth the extra money. 92 Ed McCarthy Jun 26, 2007

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Chardonnay Pinot Grigio 'beta delta' 2008 ($25, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Alois Lageder is certainly one of the most eclectic and innovative winemakers in all of Italy, a country renowned for its eclectic and innovative winemakers. Lageder is a convert to biodynamic farming in the mountainous Alto Adige region at the base of the Alps, in a part of Italy that belonged to Austria prior to World War I. His wines uniformly offer a striking balance of fruit, minerals and mouthwatering acidity, and the beta delta Chardonnay Pinot Grigio is an example of Lageder at his very best. This wine is clean and refreshing, with a refined mouthfeel and depth of flavor that goes well beyond its overall delicacy of palate weight. Aromas of citrus and exotic fruits are vivid and inviting, but it's the backbone and structure that speak of the rocky terroir and cool climate. Simply superb! 92 Robert Whitley Jan 5, 2010

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco Haberle 2013 ($23, Dalla Terra): Alois Legader is a consistent producer of exotic and appealing wines.  The Haberle cuvée is a drawn from steeply-sloping vineyards at high elevations.  It offers up Pinot Biancos of impressive power and depth, as evidenced by this one.  The 2013 Haberle shows lovely varietal purity with aromas of peach, pear and tropical fruits backed by floral and spice hints. The layered fruit character results in a  rich and creamy texture.  Although Pinot Bianco is often considered a second-echelon grape variety, it shows marvelous elegance and complexity when crafted by Lageder.  It has the capacity to cellar well for another five years or more, getting richer and deeper in color and style as it ages.
92 Wayne Belding May 17, 2016

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Chardonnay 2018 ($16):  Don’t tread here if you’re looking for a full tilt, fleshy Chardonnay.  This is a beauty that’s focused more on fresh acidity, stone fruit and stony minerality, with a mid weight mid palate and a crisp finish that keeps peach and easy lemon dancing into the distance.  A treat!  Oh, and the price… double treat!   
92 Rich Cook Dec 24, 2019

Cantina di Caldaro, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2021 ($25):  Everyone knows that the world is awash in cheap Pinot Grigio that is lacking in character, but that’s true of virtually every other successful variety around the world, and thus no reason not to look for excellent renditions.  This is surely one of them.  It shows truly medium-body, which makes it unlike the cheapo acid water releases from various locations in the northeast of Italy, but also unlike the overly sweet and overblown takes on this grape from Alsace (which are impressive for a minute before they turn tiresome).  This shows unusually expressive aromas of poached pears and baked apples along with a very faintly smoky streak that Pinot Grigio / Gris sometimes displays.  Ripe but not sweet, with very good balancing acidity (more than the norm for this middling weight class, to be sure), it finishes with a slightly and pleasantly bitter backnote that adds to its complexity and affinity for food.  This is faith-restoring Pinot Grigio.         
92 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2023

Cantina Kaltern, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Vial” 2019 ($22):  I’ve also tasted the three vintages of this wine leading up to this release from 2019, and all were excellent.  Kaltern is a co-op, but co-ops are hardly all of one piece, and this is an excellent one.  Medium-bodied and full of flavor, this is nevertheless still subtle and extremely well integrated, and in these respects, this is a classic rendition of the category.  The fact that this wine is so consistently good is surely explained in part by the fact that there’s an entry-level wine one click down from this one, without the proprietary name of “Vial,” so the winemaking team can reserve the best juice for this bottling.  With that noted, however, the entry-level wine from the 2020 vintage was also very good when I tasted it several months ago, so try that when you can.          
92 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

Cantina Kurtatsch, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020 ($20, Vineyard Brands):  So, you ask, why would Franz be recommending Pinot Grigio from 2020, when North America is awash with the fresher 2021 vintage?  Good question, the answer to which is that top producers who aren’t cashing in on the popularity of Pinot Grigio but who actually try to make something memorable — out of a grape that is usually just fodder for mindless patio sipping — make wines that are actually better in the year after their initial release.  Producers in Alto Adige are seriously over-represented in the group of producers who fit that description (only Collio comes close), and Cantina Kurtatsch deserves to be much better known for its excellent wines — such as this one.  Medium-bodied rather than light and watery, this shows lovely fruit recalling white melons and stone fruits with a citrus edge, all very nicely integrated at this stage in the wine’s development.  Wonderful now as a sipping wine but with not the slightest sign of cracking up, this is a serious wine that can suit a very wide range of purposes.  Impressive.            
92 Michael Franz Jul 12, 2022

Cantina Tramin, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco "Moriz" 2020 ($20):  Indisputably delicious and highly versatile, this “Moriz” bottling from Tramin also offers excellent value.  I’m often able to find it at retail for less than $20, and buy it in every vintage, and have never pulled the cork on a bottle that proved disappointing.  Medium-bodied with very good acidity-to-fruit balance, this is a classic specimen of the breed, with lots of little aromatic and flavor details — but none that stands out so prominently as to obscure the others.  Recommended food pairing?  Anything that goes with white wine, and some dishes that you wouldn’t guess would go with white wine, or nothing at all — as this is a delicious sipping wine as well.      
92 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

Kettmeir, Alto Adige (Sudtirol, Italy) Muller-Thurgau 2013 ($20, Italian Wines & Estates): This is a truly exceptional rendition of Müller-Thurgau.  It has greater depth, texture and complexity than any other M-T I have seen offered in the US.  It has an exotic nose of apple, pineapple, lemon and guava fruits backed by hints of honey, flowers and fresh herbs.  On the palate, the layers of pure citrus and tropical fruit are backed by hints of honey, cream, and herbs.  This lovely range of fruits, flowers and more is underlain by a rich texture and a finish that lingers and entices.  If you have not tried Müller-Thurgau, beware.  The 2013 Kettmeir will raise your expectations for life. 92 Wayne Belding Feb 3, 2015

Nals Margreid, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2016 ($20):  Twenty bucks is still in the range of an “affordable” wine if the quality is excellent, and though you might think $20 for Pinot Grigio is actually expensive, this is the bottle to show you how good this grape can be when carefully crafted in Alto Adige.  Fresh pear and stone fruit flavors are totally captivating, with smoky, musky accents lending impressive complexity. 
92 Michael Franz May 1, 2018

Nals Margreid, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco "Sirmian" 2016 ($20, Massanois Imports):  Nals Margreid is a cooperative winery in the Trentino – Alto Adige region.  It was formed in 1985 by the merger of two smaller cooperatives and now supports 140 growers in the region.  Nals Margreid is a consistent producer of exotic and appealing wines.  The Sirmian cuvée shows the character and style if fine Pinot Bianco.  It offers up impressive varietal purity with aromas of peach, pear and tropical fruits backed by floral and spice hints. The layered fruit character results in a rich and creamy texture. Although Pinot Bianco is often considered a second-echelon grape variety, this one shows marvelous elegance and complexity.  It has the capacity to cellar well for another five years or more, getting richer and deeper in color and style as it ages. 
92 Wayne Belding Sep 18, 2018

Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019 ($17, HB Wine Merchants):  There’s Pinot Grigio, and then there’s Pinot Grigio.  One taste of Peter Zemmer’s explains why the category is so popular.  Delicate hints of white flowers greet you when you pull the cork.  A refined and restrained fruitiness follows.  It startles you with its elegance, not its power.  Bracing acidity in the finish amplifies its charms.  Fine as a stand-alone aperitif, it would do well with delicate seafood, such as sautéed sea bass.    
92 Michael Apstein May 12, 2020

San Michele - Eppan, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Schulthauser” 2019 ($22):  This wine bears a charmingly old-fashioned label, but there’s nothing old-fashioned about the wine, which is impeccably fresh despite nearing the three-year mark from when the fruit was picked.  The aromas are subtle, as is almost always the case with this variety, with ripe pear and white melon suggestions that become more expressive once the wine is on the palate.  Medium-bodied and rounded in texture upon entry, but freshened by very well integrated acidity, this is a delicious example of the category, which is also to say that it is a supremely versatile partner for dishes appropriate for white wine.        
92 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2010 ($18, Banville & Jones):  This is the sort of wine that you might not think even existed--so dissimilar (and superior) is it to almost everything else in its category.  Whereas the vast majority of Pinot Grigios are thin and watery and one-dimensional, this is light but still substantial, surprisingly deep in flavor, and strikingly layered and nuanced in character.  It remains quite refreshing for all of that, and if you turn to Pinot Grigio for refreshment you won’t be disappointed in this rendition--you’ll just get a lot more for your money than simple refreshment.  At $18, this is about 1/3 more expensive than most Pinot Grigios, but it is at least twice as good, so there’s value here in addition to the wine’s other virtues. 92 Michael Franz Sep 6, 2011

Tiefenbrunner, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Merus” 2019 ($22, Winebow):  This wine has multiple virtues including relatively wide availability, a wisely-utilized screw cap closure, very reasonable pricing and — last but hardly least, excellent quality.  It is a bit fresher and lighter by comparison to the norm, but still a generous wine with open fruit flavors, interesting mineral undertones, and admirable balance thanks to very well integrated acidity.  Although I rarely find opportunities to taste it, Tiefenbrunner also makes a higher-level release of Pinot Bianco with a proprietary name of “Anna” in the “Turmhof” line, so be on the lookout for that.          
92 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio "Benefizium" 2004 ($17, Dalla Terra Imports): Dalla Terra's Brian Larky has assembled a very fine stable of Italian imports from northeastern Italy and Tuscany. Alois Lageder, arguably Alto Adige's finest winery, has been a long-time client of Larky. If Pinot Grigio normally elicits a big yawn from you, try Lageder's 2004 Benefizium, a single-vineyard wine. It is ripe and very flavorful, with focused, very concentrated peach and lime flavors, and has a lengthy finish. A great Pinot Grigio. Lageder's Pinot Bianco Haberlehof is also very good. 91 Ed McCarthy Jun 13, 2006

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio Benefizium Porer 2008 ($20, Dalla Terra):  Northern Italian Pinot Grigio is known mostly as a tank-fermented no-oak white wine with pleasant ginger-peachy aromatics and brisk acidity.  Lageder tank ferments the majority of his Pinot Grigio on the fine lees, then ages 80% of wine for six months in large Slavonian oak casks and the remaining 20% in French oak barrels.  The result is a textured wine with a brilliant light gold color, forward ripe peach aroma, dry, medium fruit flavors with traces of ginger, crisp acidity and a dry finish at 13% alcohol.  What sets this Pinot Grigio apart from other Northern Italy Grigios is its texture and complex flavors. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 17, 2010

Andrian, Alto Adige (Italy) Gewürztraminer 2012 ($17, Banville & Jones): There’s not much doubt that Gewürztraminer’s most famous and hallowed place of origin is in Alsace, but I confess that I think this variety is really at its best in cool, high altitude sites in Italy’s Alto Adige region.  The variety is inherently low in acidity, and is often not well served by the Alsatian taste for big, sweet wines, as Gewürztraminer finished in this style is usually lacking in focus and structure and quite tiring to drink.  By contrast, the best growers in Alto Adige (such as Cantina Terlano / Andrian) manage to get the billowing floral aromatics that Gewürztraminer can provide while also retaining enough acidity to lift and freshen the wine.  Try this strong value wine with spicy crab preparations or spicy Indian fare.
91 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2013

Andrian, Alto Adige (Italy) Sauvignon Blanc “Floreado” 2011 ($22, Banville & Jones):  This is a very distinctive rendering of Sauvignon Blanc offering much less of the variety’s herbal, grassy scents and much more floral aromas, which presumably lie behind the proprietary name of the wine.  It also shows less citrus fruit and more of the ripe melon profile shown by New World examples, yet, by contrast from Sauvignons from, say, California, this shows notably better acidity and much more underlying minerality.  Suffice it to say that this is a highly individual expression, and also a captivatingly delicious one. 91 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2012

Cantina Andrian, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco “finado” 2019 ($20, Banville Wine Merchants):  Still very tart and tight at this juncture, this wine is quite bright and refreshing, but also displays impressive weight on the palate when permitted to breathe and warm in a glass.  Indeed, it seemed significantly richer and more complex when tasted on the night after I first opened it (after spending 20+ hours uncorked in a refrigerator).  That suggests that this is a great candidate for cellaring for a few years, as it lost none of its freshness as it benefitted in all other respects.  The fruit aromas and flavors suggest golden apples, but the acidity recalls either green apples or citrus fruits — or both.  Nice mineral underpinnings lend intricacy to the mid-palate and come to the fore in the finish.  This may very well merit a higher score when reconsidered in a few years.      
91 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Terlaner Classico 2011 ($20, Banville & Jones):  Few consumers would have any idea what sort of wine this will turn out to be when eyeing the label, and consequently I would guess that almost all who taste it for the first time do so on the recommendation of others or based on the lofty reputation of the producer.  In any case, this is a terrific insider’s wine, blended from 60% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc.  Remarkably consistent from year to year, the 2011 shows beautifully right now, with a mélange of stone fruit and citrus notes rising from a medium-bodied core.  Pair this with shrimp dishes, shellfish pasta, sautéed or grilled freshwater fish, or delicate poultry preparations. 91 Michael Franz Nov 27, 2012

Kellerei Bozen, Alto Adige (Italy) Weissburgunder / Pinot Bianco 2020 ($20, Matchvino):  Italy’s Alto Adige is one of the best places in the world to grow high quality Pinot Bianco grapes.  Also known as Pinot Blanc and Weissburgunder, Pinot Bianco is often a pleasurable, easy-to-drink white wine.  It is an exceptional treat, however, when it achieves this degree of depth and complexity.  The Kellerei Bozen Weissburgunder is a marvelous, multilayered, exotic, elegant and dry rendition of the grape.  The bouquet is rich with lemon, apple, pear, peach and tropical fruit scents interwoven with floral and spice tones.  The layers of luscious peach, citrus and tropical fruit flavors unfold across the palate followed by subtleties of spice and a minerally-clean, dry finish.       
91 Wayne Belding Dec 13, 2022

Kellerei Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Sauvignon Blanc “Quarz” 2009 ($51, Banville & Jones):  This wine is from Cantina Terlano’s “Selections” collection of top quality wines. The fruit is complex and layered with aromas of grapefruit, melon, ginger and a touch of tarragon.  In the mouth the grapefruit, melon flavors with an inkling of chalk and lime zest are quite intense and mouth filling with a creamy, round richness equalized by vivid acidity.  This is a very sophisticated and elegant Sauvignon Blanc that is still quite fresh and should continue to develop in the bottle. 91 Rebecca Murphy Nov 6, 2012

Kettmeir, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2015 ($22): The French call the same grape Pinot Blanc and they love to caress it with oak. The Italian version, at least as expressed by Kettmeir, is fresh, crisp and clean and shows exceptional fruit purity along the lines of green apples and lime. Bone dry yet with good richness, it is an excellent foil for roast chicken and fish. 91 Robert Whitley Sep 5, 2017

Rottensteiner, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Carnol” 2020 ($17):  This fine Pinot Bianco is above average in a category that is itself way above the global average among white wines.  Unusually expressive aromatically, it offers up scents and flavors recalling grated citrus rind, pear, and baked apple, with the citrus rind note showing up again in the finish in the guise of a hint of pleasant bitterness that offsets the juicy, primary fruit flavors.  My first encounter with this producer was tasting this wine in July of 2021, and though I don’t see anyone offering it for sale in the USA, let’s hope an importer brings it to our side of the Atlantic.          
91 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

St. Pauls, Alto Adige (Italy) Sauvignon 2006 ($35, Tesori Wines): Sauvignon from Italy is a rare sighting in the U.S., except in a few high-end Italian restaurants. It's not that they aren't good, but generally importers focus on Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige and Friuli, the two areas most accomplished with Sauvignon. So this importer gets kudos for daring to market a Sauvignon from Alto Adige, which is a very good example of the style and quality that's possible in this part of the world. The nose is intensely floral and the palate is dominated by luscious, ripe stone fruits, buttressed by fresh acidity. An absolutely delicious Sauvignon and a tremendous example of what Italy can do with this grape variety. 91 Robert Whitley Oct 14, 2008

Abbazia di Novacella, Alto Adige (Italy) Kerner 2016 ($23):  Taut and linear, with echoes of slate and stone lurking beneath its crisp apple-scented fruit, this is a fine example of a relatively obscure grape variety from one of the finest wineries in Alto Adige, high in the Dolomites, just south of the Austrian border.   It tastes above all else refreshing, and while a good partner for light fish or poultry dishes, works very well as an aperitif before dinner. 
90 Paul Lukacs Sep 18, 2018

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Benefizium Porer” 2007 ($23, Dalla Terra): Except for the difficulty involved in pronouncing the name of this wine, this single vineyard Pinot Grigio from a great producer makes me wonder why anyone would buy a similarly priced mass-marketed one.  It has real depth and character, traits lacking in most Pinot Grigio.  A touch of barrel fermentation and oak aging adds complexity without dominating its pear-like flavor profile.  Bright acidity keeps it fresh and acts as a counterpoint to its fine texture.  A versatile wine, you could easily sip it as an aperitif and then take it to the table to accompany a meal.  It's worth learning how to say the name. 90 Michael Apstein May 19, 2009

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Chardonnay 2006 ($12, Alois Lageder USA): This tank-fermented value wine from Lageder dispels the notion that Chardonnay needs, demands oak.  Straight stainless steel fermentation with lees maturation of four months produced lovely citrus and green apple aromas and bright Granny Smith apple flavors, balanced by crisp mouth-watering acidity. This is a clearly defined Chardonnay with structure and length. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 29, 2007

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio Benefizium Porer 2005 ($22, Alois Lageder USA): The tongue-twisting Benefizium Porer Vineyard in Magre yielded a perfumed richly textured wine.  Mainly tank fermented and matured on the lees, a small part was fermented and aged in French oak barrels.  It's the warm brioche with smoke and spice that is intriguing in this Pinot Grigio. The flavors are more ripe pear and spice.  It has great supple texture, brisk acidity and good length. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 29, 2007

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Porer” 2011 ($25, Martin Scott Wines):  Want to know what real Pinot Grigio tastes like and why it has obtained its current popularity?  Try this one.  Lageder, an advocate of biodynamic winemaking, is one the top producers in the Alto Adige region.  This Pinot Grigio, from a single vineyard, Porer, has richness and a caressing creamy texture.  Hints of pears add to its appeal.  It works well both as an aperitif and with full-flavored fish dishes. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Gewurztraminer 2006 ($24, Banville & Jones): I used to think that Alsace in France was the only place capable of producing truly compelling wines from Gewurztraminer grapes.  Then I visited Alto Adige in northern Italy, where I found wines as good and sometimes even better than the Alsatians.  The top examples from Alto Adige display all of Gewurztraminer's sexy perfume, but at the same time taste delightfully clean and fresh - more so than most from Alsace.  They are true food wines, pairing well with all sorts of dishes (and not just ones filled with soy sauce).  Cantina Terlan's dry 2004 is an excellent example. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 10, 2007

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) “Terlaner Classico” 2005 ($20, Banville & Jones): This blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Riesling Italico (a synonym for Welschrielsing, and unrelated to the true Riesling of the Rhine), offers layered, nuanced aromas and flavors reminiscent of summer fruits, flowers, and stony minerals.  It's delicious, and wonderfully long on the palate.  Most impressive of all, though, is its balance and harmony.  An extremely impressive white wine. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2007

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) “Terlaner Classico” 2007 ($23, Banville & Jones): From one of northern Italy’s most consistently impressive white wine producers, this proprietary blend of Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay tastes simultaneously rich and refreshing--a rare but delectable combination.  A fine choice for warm weather sipping this time of year, it also shows the potential for aging, as past vintages have evolved gracefully over many years in the cellar. 90 Paul Lukacs Jun 30, 2009

Elena Walch, Alto Adige (Italy) “Beyond the Clouds” 2011 ($50, The Country Vintner): An outlier, “Beyond the Clouds” might be better called “Beyond the Region.”  Whereas most Alto Adige whites, no matter the varietal, exhibit an almost lacey delicacy, this wine is full-bodied and quite rich.  It’s made with a number of different grape varieties, but the blend is dominated by Chardonnay, and there is a hint of char from oak aging that gains intensity in the finish.  If you forget where it is from, however, you won’t be able to deny that it tastes darn good -- lush and sumptuous even if somewhat brawny.
90 Paul Lukacs Jul 15, 2014

Elena Walch, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2017 ($17):  A bright and lively white from Italy’s mountainous Alto Adige region, this wine suggests autumnal pear and apple flavors.  It is crisp and minerally, and makes a refreshing aperitif or an accompaniment to light dishes ranging from seafood to poultry to grilled cheese sandwiches.  
90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 27, 2019

Kaltern, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2011 ($13): An exciting northern Italian Pinot Grigio, packed full of citrus and herbal flavor, with excellent structure and length on the palate.  So many renditions of this popular varietal wine taste shallow and watery.  Not this one.  It’s light-bodied but extremely refreshing – just the thing with which to celebrate the arrival of spring. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 5, 2013

Kellerei Kaltern, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2010 ($13, Siema):  Remarkably detailed and fresh in light of its vintage and asking price, this is an exemplar among current release Pinot Grigios from 2010.  The fruit remains fresh and enticing, with a faint sweetness that never seems sugary and that is very effectively counterbalanced by zesty acidity.  This enshadows almost everything comparable at this price level. 90 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2012

Nals Margreid, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2012 ($12, The Country Vintner): Light but still substantial and satisfying for a Pinot Grigio, this shows juicy fruit recalling golden apples and ripe pears, but finishes with a snap of citrus that keeps the whole package seeming quite refreshing.  An over-achiever for a Pinot Grigio at almost any price--but especially at this price.
90 Michael Franz Feb 18, 2014

St. Pauls, Alto Adige (Italy) Gewurztraminer St. Justina 2006 ($30, Tesori Wines): Well balanced and dry, this Gewurztraminer is that rare combination of delicacy and intensity. The nose is all about fragrant rose petals, honey and spice, yet on the palate the wine is dry as a bone, firm and expressive, with good, clean acidity on the finish and a strong hint of minerals. Extremely complex and satisfying. 90 Robert Whitley Oct 14, 2008

St. Pauls, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2012 ($16, St. Pauls USA): This wine is certainly among the handful of best Pinot Grigios that I’ve tasted this year, and willingly or not, I’ve tasted at least 75 of them (predominantly for restaurant consulting purposes, which isn’t a lot of fun on Pinot Grigio night).  It offers much more aroma, substance, flavor and finish than the innocuous, standard-issue stuff one usually encounters, with excellent fruit recalling pears and subtle stone fruits, with fine acidity to counterbalance the wine’s generous mid-palate.  Very well done, and a welcome sheep amidst a vast herd of goats.
90 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2013

Tiefenbrunner, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2015 ($16, Winebow):  Crisp and fresh, with citrus fruit flavors, a somewhat floral bouquet, and subtle herbal notes in the finish. 90 Paul Lukacs May 9, 2017

Abbazia di Novacella, Alto Adige (Italy) Sylvaner 2004 ($17, Vias Imports): The Sylvaner grape variety has a rather pedestrian reputation in Germany and Alsace, but give it the right combination of climate and soilin this case, poor mountain soil in a marginal climate for ripenessand Sylvaner shows its stuff. The 2004 Sylvaner, very crisp and very floral, is medium-bodied, with a touch of apple and honey flavors. 89 Ed McCarthy Apr 26, 2006

Abbazia di Novacella, Alto Adige (Italy) Sylvaner 2009 ($25, Vias Imports):  A spicy, satisfying white, with refreshing acidity but enough heft to hold its own at the dinner table.  Made from grapes grown high in the Dolomites near the Austrian border, it serves as a reminder that under-appreciated grape varieties can yield distinctive-tasting so exciting wines. 89 Paul Lukacs Jul 26, 2011

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige (Italy) Müller Thurgau 2008 ($20, Dalla Terra):  Alois Lageder is one of Italy’s most innovative and environmentally conscious winemakers.  Lageder’s vineyards are mostly organic and biodynamic and his wines are fruit-forward but subtle with impeccable balance.  This 2008  Muller Thurgau, a German crossing of Riesling and Sylvaner, is a leaner Northern Italian version of the German wine.  The color is a brilliant light gold while the low intensity aromatics evoke scents of spring flowers and citrus.  The wine is dry with medium-weight delicate fruit and crisp acidity.  It finishes at 12.7% alcohol.  The fruit/acid balance of this wine makes it ideal as an aperitif or with simply prepared fish. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 17, 2010

Kellerei Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2011 ($19, Banville & Jones):  Kellerei Cantina Terlan, or Cantina Terlano, is a high-quality cooperative winery in the Alto Adige, a.k.a. Sud Tyrol, region of northeastern Italy.  As you can probably tell from the two names for winery and region, it is a multicultural area with Italian and German influences. The Pinot Gris grapes are grown at 1000 feet and benefit from a cool growing season to emphasize fresh fruit and crisp acidity.  Aromas and flavors of pear, apple and melon with stony mineral notes are brightened by citrusy acidity.  

89 Rebecca Murphy Nov 6, 2012

Malojer-Gummerhof, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2012 ($19, Weygandt-Metzler): Good Pinot Biancos from the Alto Adige offer a marvelous combination of fruit expression and satisfying texture that makes them outstanding companions for a wide range of foods.  The Malojer bottling has a lively nose of peach, pear and red apple fruits with floral and subtle citrus pith and herbal tones.  The flavors are crisp and refreshing with the fresh fruits underlain by a rich texture and followed by a lively, tart finish.  It’s a great match for calamari, soft shell crab or other rich shellfish or finfish.
89 Wayne Belding May 6, 2014

Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2006 ($13, Vin DiVino): This Pinot Bianco is so fresh it's almost spritzy, which balances the tropical melon component nicely.  After a few minutes in the glass, spice and creaminess emerge.  It's worth searching for this great value. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2007

San Pietro, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2011 ($13, De Grazia Imports): A bright, crisp, and supremely refreshing Pinot Grigio, with forward citrus fruit flavors undergirded by faintly herbal notes that gain power in the finish. Many if not most northern Italian Pinot Grigios taste disappointingly dull. Not this Alpine beauty.
89 Paul Lukacs Feb 12, 2013

Caldaro, Alto Adige (Italy) Müller Thurgau 2008 ($17, Siema): Müller Thurgau is the most widely-planted and successful of the cross varieties developed in the late 19th century.  Although some renditions are less than thrilling, this is largely due to the fact that the grape can do well in a very wide variety of locations--including substandard ones.  In a good setting, and in the hands of a serious vintner, it can produce lovely wines, as in this case.  Delicate floral and stone fruit aromas lead up to harmonious flavors and a soft, rounded mouthfeel that is the vinous equivalent of comfort food. 88 Michael Franz Sep 15, 2009

San Pietro, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2007 ($13, Bacchus Importers Ltd.): Alto Adige Pinot Grigios tend to taste slightly less tart and to sport a bit more ripe fruit flavor than those from the Delle Venezie, and this wine certainly fits that profile.  Enticingly aromatic, it's delectable on the palate, the only drawback being a slightly short finish. 87 Paul Lukacs May 19, 2009

Tolloy, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2007 ($13, Prestige Wine Imports): Too many Pinot Grigio wines can be bland and boring, but this one is a delightful exception.  With crisp apple and peach aromas, it's crisp and zippy, with a fresh citrus tang and a nice mineral character. 87 Tina Caputo Apr 14, 2009

Tolloy, Alto Adige (Italy) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($13, Prestige Wine Imports): This Italian SB has subtle melon and peach aromas with herbaceous notes.  It's crisp and fresh on the palate, with lime/citrus flavors and a hint of bell pepper herbaceousness.  Simple and easy to drink. 86 Tina Caputo Apr 14, 2009

Kettmeir, Alto Adige - Suditrol (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2014 ($22, Santa Margherita USA): Two wines from this producer in two weeks, and I'm now officially a fan.  This Pinot Blanc is crisp and refreshing, with soft white flowers, lemon pith and melon aromas gently inviting you into the glass, where flavors translate nicely and finish with notes of zest and nut.  A fine summer sip that would pair well with prosciutto wrapped melon.
89 Rich Cook Aug 30, 2016

Kettmeir, Alto Adige - Suditrol DOC (Italy) Müller Thurgau 2014 ($22, Santa Margherita USA): My first experience with a dry expression of the variety, and it makes me wonder why all of the others that I've tried have shown off-dry or sweeter.  Aromas of ripe melon, white flowers, peach and stone minerality lead to a palate that's bone dry, brightly citric and refreshingly zesty on the end.  This really needs some food to show itself off to the full -- fried calamari would work.
91 Rich Cook Aug 23, 2016

Kettmeir, Alto Adige - Sudtirol DOC (Italy) Muller Thurgau 2015 ($22, SM USA): I believe I gave the 2014 vintage the same score, so here's to consistency.  The 2015 is a lovely, crisp, dry version of the variety that features peachy fruit with lemon, lime, thistle, white pepper and stony mineral notes adding interest.  Great for poolside sipping with light appetizers or salads.
91 Rich Cook Aug 22, 2017

Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige - Südtirol DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2018 ($15, HB Wine Merchants):  Pinot Grigio spans the spectrum from innocuous or insipid to charming and noteworthy.  Peter Zemmer’s is definitely in the latter group.  An immediately captivating floral sensation predicts enjoyment.  It has remarkable depth and persistence for a category that is all too often fleeting and bland.  This one has character and verve and explains why the variety became so popular initially.  A wisp of bitterness in the finish enhances its overall appeal.  Both refreshing and serious, it does double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or as an accompaniment to simply prepared seafood.  Buy it by the case for the rest of summer.  
92 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) "Nova Domus" Terlaner Riserva 2015 ($59, Banville & Jones):  Cantina Terlano is a fantastic producer of exotic and appealing wines.  The Nova Domus Riserva is their top wine, drawn from steeply-sloping vineyards that rise from the high elevations of the Alto Adige.  Nova Domus is a white wine of impressive power and depth, blended from Pinot Bianco (60%) Chardonnay (30%) and Sauvignon Blanc (10%).  It offers a full package of pure fruit with aromas of peach, pear, pineapple and guava backed by floral and spice hints.  Its concentration and multilayered fruit character results in a is seductively rich and creamy texture.  Partial fermentation and aging in large barrels adds nuance and complexity.  This lovely white shows the remarkable richness that Alto Adige Pinot Bianco can offer.  It has the capacity to cellar well for another ten years or more, getting richer and deeper in color and style as it ages. 
95 Wayne Belding May 14, 2019

Alois Lageder, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio "Porer" 2018 ($26):  Tasting the wines of Alois Lageder is a bit like transporting directly to the alpine region of Alto Adige, where apple orchards blanket the verdant valleys, and cool climate vineyards cling to the foothills and hillsides.  As one of the leading biodynamic producers in the region, Alois Lageder is also a proponent of innovation, and this Pinot Grigio is a case in point.  This is a blend of three separate processes, including a direct press portion, a portion that rested on skins for 15 hours, and a third portion placed in contact with stems and skins for about one year.  The result is a beautifully complex and provocative wine that elevates Pinot Grigio to a different level.       
94 Jessica Dupuy Nov 17, 2020

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Gewürztraminer 2019 ($27, Banville Wine Merchants):  A couple of evenings ago, I asked my husband to open a Gewürztraminer for the pork pot stickers on our dinner menu.  I was thinking of an Alsatian wine that we had bought recently.  The wine he poured was delicious with its scrumptious floral, lychee, rose petal, green apple aromas.  The flavors of apple, pear, a little mango, and a touch of ginger were balanced by crisp acidity.   I was enjoying the wine very much but was surprised that it was not as full bodied as I expected, and it had crisp acidity.  That’s unusual for a Gewürztraminer, because it is considered a low acid grape variety.  I looked for the bottle and found that it was not from Alsace, but from the Alto Adige region of Italy, which is a cooler region than Alsace.  Alto Adige is in northeastern Italy in the southern Alps and the Dolomites at an altitude of 3300 feet.  Alsace, in contrast, is the in northeastern France between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine River, with a semi continental climate and warmer temperatures.      
94 Rebecca Murphy Feb 15, 2022

Elena Walch, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Sauvignon Vigna Castel Ringberg 2018 ($30):  From Elena Walch’s Castel Ringberg Vineyard, the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc is a radiant and tremendously appealing white wine.  It is both fresh and complex, offering a diversity of aromas and flavors ranging from citrus to tropical fruits, and including the hints of minerality that characterize the best wines from this northern mountainous region.  The enchanting white wine is notably crisp and complex, which suggests that it will age well for at least another five to ten years.  Enjoyable with a variety of foods, from fritto misto, to creamy pasta dishes, to seafood, poultry and pork.         
94 Marguerite Thomas Sep 21, 2021

Elena Walch, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2021 ($20, Walch USA):  With this charming, food friendly and simply delicious white wine, Elena Walch has done it again.  This time she presents us with a Pinot Grigio whose aroma invites us in right away via its haunting perfume led by pear, peach, apple and distinct minerality.  In the mouth, an intricate tapestry of fruitiness — mineral-driven rather than sweet — envelops the palate and delivers a generous finish.  No oaky distraction disturbs the freshness of the fruit flavors here (the wine was matured in stainless steel tanks).  This is a Pinot Grigio that is both enjoyable on its own as a cocktail, and/or delicious as a companion to fare such as seafood or light pasta dishes.  The estate is dedicated to environmental responsibility in both the vineyard and winery.  Its commitment to sustainable practices extends to such things as the use of unbleached and uncolored corks and, as in this case, screwcap closures and lighter weight glass bottles.       
94 Marguerite Thomas Feb 7, 2023

Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio Riserva "Giatl" 2016 ($38):  Pinot Grigio thrives in northern Italy’s Alto Adige region, where it takes on a personality not seen elsewhere in Italy except perhaps Friuli.  Zemmer’s Riserva is one of the best, showing richness, texture and precision that lifts it out of the realm of the ordinary.   Notes of white flower, citrus and stone fruit with a touch of spice supply the charm, and the lingering finish will invite another sip. 
94 Robert Whitley Jun 4, 2019

Strasserhof, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Kerner 2017 ($24):  Kerner has an unusual parentage, coming from the red Trollinger grape and Riesling.  It was first cultivated in 1969, the hope being that it would stand up to climates where Riesling is subject to rot.  This example has a nose that is very Riesling like, with clear sweet stone fruit, white flowers and lemon lime aromas.  On the palate a dry, biting surprise is delivered, with bold presentation of the fragrance profile as flavor, lingering very long and bright.  Delightful!  
94 Rich Cook Aug 20, 2019

Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) “Cuvée Terlaner” 2019 ($28, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cuvée Terlaner is one of this cooperative winery’s original wines when it was formed by 24 wine growers in 1893.  It is made from Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, a classic blend in the region.  It is a complex wine with flavors of green apple, white peach and melon with a touch of lemon balm, and dusty, flinty notes are presented in a light-bodied format and enlivened with vibrant acidity.  It comes from Terlan, a region in the Alto Adige in northern Italy ("Terlaner" is the adjectival form of the region's name), one of the places in the world where Pinot Bianco (or Blanc in French) really shines.  It will be a welcome addition at a summer meal of a seared tuna Niçoise salad or a chilled gazpacho.          
93 Rebecca Murphy Jul 6, 2021

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2019 ($25, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cantina Terlano is one of the best cooperative wineries in the world.  Founded in 1893, it has access to some of the best vineyard sites in the Alto Adige.  Meticulous care in the winery results in wines like this outstanding 2019 Pinot Bianco.  The 2019 Terlano Pinot Bianco shows forward aromas of ripe pear, peach, pineapple and tropical fruits backed by floral and spice hints.  The rich fruit unfolds in layers across the palate, ending with a clean and refreshing finish.  The texture is rich and creamy.  This lovely Pinot Bianco has the capacity to cellar well for another 4 to 6 years or more, getting richer in style as it ages.  It’s an extraordinarily versatile food companion as well.       
93 Wayne Belding Jun 29, 2021

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Tradition” 2020 ($25, Banville Wine Merchants):  Pinot Grigio that costs $25 but then tastes like it is worth significantly more money is, quite frankly, inconceivable to most wine consumers.  They can hardly be blamed for that, because innocuous renditions of Pinot Grigio are not only ubiquitous in retail stores and restaurants, but even expected among those who have never tasted an outstanding specimen of the breed.  This is a manifestly outstanding specimen, with excellent concentration that takes it well into the medium-bodied range, where it displays delicious fruit recalling white melon and ripe pear, along with ultra-subtle musky, smoky notes (most often associated with Pinot Gris from Alsace, but rarely found in dry renditions from Italy).  The balance of ripe fruit and acidity is impeccable, keeping the wine delightfully fresh even as it impresses with its generosity.  Cantina Terlano has a track record that leads many experts to place it alongside Piedmont’s Produttori del Barbaresco as one of Italy’s two best cooperative wineries.  Which it is — though both would be regarded more simply and accurately as two of the entire world’s premier wine producers.          
93 Michael Franz Jan 4, 2022

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Bianco Terlan 2018 ($25, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cantina Terlano is a reliable producer of rich and appealing wines.  Founded in 1893, it has access to some of the best vineyard sites in the Alto Adige.  Combined with meticulous care in the winery, the result is wines like this outstanding 2018 Pinot Bianco.  This will perhaps change your thinking about the grape -- it’s that good.  The 2018 Terlan Pinot Bianco shows forward aromas of peach, pear, pineapple and guava fruits backed by floral and spice hints.  The rich fruit unfolds in layers  across the palate, ending with a clean and refreshing finish.   The texture is pleasingly rich and creamy. This lovely Pinot Bianco has the capacity to cellar well for another 3 to 5 years or more, getting richer and deeper in color and style as it ages.  It’s an extraordinarily versatile food companion as well.      
93 Wayne Belding Nov 3, 2020

Elena Walch, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Bianco Kristallberg 2020 ($32, Walch USA):   A superb example of the species, this shows both wonderful opulence and energetic freshness — which is a rare combination, as you’d guess.  The aromas are subtle as usual for Pinot Bianco, and yet the scents of white blossoms, freshly sliced pears and golden apples are very appealing, and the fruit aromas reappear in the wine’s flavors.  It is nicely concentrated with medium-plus body but no sense of heaviness, and the acidity is seamlessly integrated with the wine’s fruit.  There’s just a kiss of oak showing in this vintage. The finish includes a ripe note that almost recalls pineapple juice, but that’s not quite right as a descriptor — though I’d guess that you’ll know what I mean when you taste this.          
93 Michael Franz May 10, 2022

Nals Margreid, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Sirmian" 2021 ($30, Serendipity Wines):  Nals Margreid is a cooperative winery in the Trentino – Alto Adige region.  It was formed in 1985 by the merger of two smaller cooperatives and now supports 140 growers in the region.  The Sirmian Pinot Bianco cuvée exemplifies the best character and style of the variety.  Drawn from vines grown at a 1500 to 2000 foot elevation, it offers up impressive varietal purity.  It begins with aromas of peach, pear and tropical fruits backed by floral and spice hints. The layered fruit character results in a rich and creamy texture on the palate.  Although Pinot Bianco is often considered a lesser grape variety, this one shows marvelous elegance and complexity.  It has the capacity to cellar well for another five years or more, getting richer and deeper in color and style as it ages.         
93 Wayne Belding Jul 11, 2023

Cantina Andriano, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019 ($18, Banville Wine Merchants):  From a high-altitude vineyard in the Aldo Adige region in northeastern Italy comes an intense and exciting wine.  It begins with aromas of lemon, grapefruit and lime zest with chalky mineral notes that introduce intense lemon fruit, zest and lemon oil flavors intertwined with lean citrus acidity and ends with a long, lingering finish.  It is a perfect wine to complement grilled or baked halibut.  Cantina Andriano is one of the earliest cooperative wineries in a region where cooperative wineries reign.  I was intrigued that the wine’s label said, “Bottled by Cantina Terlano,” a cooperative winery that is known for quality, outstanding wines.  Upon further investigation I found that Cantina Terlano bought Cantina Andriano in 2008.  Apparently, both wineries were established in 1893 in the town of Terlano.  Although Cantina Terlano owns Andriano, the wines are produced separately.      
92 Rebecca Murphy Jan 19, 2021

Falkenstein, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Riesling 2019 ($33, Free Run Wine Merchants):  I don’t see a lot of high-quality Riesling coming from Italy.  Falkenstein’s south-facing vineyards sit just over two-thousand feet above sea level giving them a balance of warming sun and cooling temperatures from the elevation.  While Italy isn’t known for its Riesling, this one has all the high-quality Riesling marks you would expect from Germany — petroleum, minerality, tart citrus fruit, a touch of residual sugar to keep the bracing acidity in check, and a Riesling bottle.  While already delicious enough, this Riesling would continue to develop nicely in one’s cellar.  Buy a few since you will want to show this off to all your wine friends.           
92 Vince Simmon Feb 7, 2023

Kellerei Bozen, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Weissburgunder 2018 ($19, Matchvino):  Italy’s Alto Adige is one of the best sites in the world for high quality Pinot Bianco.  Also known as Pinot Blanc and Weissburgunder, Pinot Bianco is often a pleasurable, easy-to-drink white wine.  It is a special treat, however, when it achieves this degree of depth and complexity.  The Kellerei Bozen Weissburgunder is a marvelous, multilayered, exotic, elegant and dry rendition of the grape.  The bouquet is rich with Meyer lemon, apple, pear, peach and guava fruit scents interwoven with floral and spice tones.  The layers of luscious peach, citrus and tropical fruit flavors unfold across the palate followed by subtleties of spice and a minerally-clean, dry finish.  If you want to experience Pinot Blanc at its exotic and enchanting best, give this one a try.    
92 Wayne Belding Jan 21, 2020

Kettmeir, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Muller Thurgau 2015 ($22): Muller Thurgau is one of Italy’s most underrated white wines. Planted in the Alto Adige region in what used to be Austria before World War I, this rich, juicy white thrives in the cool climate of the area. This vintage from Kettmeir exhibits aromas of peach and lemon, shows a nutty side, and finishes with a hint of pepper.
92 Robert Whitley Aug 15, 2017

Kettmeir, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2014 ($22):  This cool-climate pinot blanc from the foothills of the Alps combines firm backbone with lush richness, which is no small feat. Showing notes of melon, yellow citrus and spice, it's an aromatic summer white that certainly has enough character to stand up to rich sauces and smoky aromas from the grill.
92 Robert Whitley Aug 9, 2016

Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Chardonnay 2019 ($17, HB Wine Merchants):  With rare exception, consumers don’t usually think of Italy for distinctive Chardonnay.  More wines like this one could change that perception.  Racy and refined, it’s paradoxically mouth-filling yet not heavy. It’s cutting and spicy profile is refreshing.  Undoubtedly, the decision to ferment and age the wine entirely in stainless steel allows its citrus-tinged fruitiness to shine.  It’s a steal, so buy it by the case for this summer’s drinking.    
92 Michael Apstein May 19, 2020

Cantina Andrian, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Bianco “finado” 2019 ($20, Banville Wine Merchants):  Still very tart and tight at this juncture, this wine is quite bright and refreshing, but also displays impressive weight on the palate when permitted to breathe and warm in a glass.  Indeed, it seemed significantly richer and more complex when tasted on the night after I first opened it (after spending 20+ hours uncorked in a refrigerator).  That suggests that this is a great candidate for cellaring for a few years, as it lost none of its freshness as it benefitted in all other respects.  The fruit aromas and flavors suggest golden apples, but the acidity recalls either green apples or citrus fruits — or both.  Nice mineral underpinnings lend intricacy to the mid-palate and come to the fore in the finish.  This may very well merit a higher score when reconsidered in a few years.     
91 Michael Franz Apr 20, 2021

Cantina Tramin, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Moriz” 2020 ($25, Winebow): This vintage seems just a click down in expressiveness from the 2019, but it is still excellent, and an excellent value as well — at least at the prices I see for this in DC.  It is sneaky in many respects, and will prove especially sneaky for those who don’t know wines in this category.  The aromas, flavors and finish all show more detail with every successive sniff and sip, with straight medium-weight body that over-delivers in terms of flavor and length.  Faint floral and poached pear aromas lead to soft but focused flavors with baked apples added to the mix, and very well integrated acidity lends lift to the finish.  There’s nothing assertive about this wine, so those seeking fireworks should look elsewhere, whereas those wanting a tasteful partner for virtually anything they’re eating should zero in on this high-value exemplar.      
91 Michael Franz May 10, 2022

Elena Walch, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio Castel Ringberg 2018 ($21):  Elena Walch has long been one of the top producers in the Alto Adige region between the northern Italian city of Verona and the Austrian border.  Her Castel Ringberg Pinot Grigio is fresh and crisp, shows aromas of pear and white pepper, is beautifully balanced and indicative of the style and quality of Pinot Grigio made in the shadows of the Alps.      
91 Robert Whitley Nov 24, 2020

Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017 ($18, HB Wine Merchants):  A step forward for this bottling, with pure lemon, lime and peach aromas and flavors, with a viscous midpalate and a crisp finish where the fruit blows forward convincingly and lingers long.  If more Pinot Grigio was made in this manner the naysayers would be easily converted. 
91 Rich Cook Jul 3, 2018

Kettmeir, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Muller Thurgau 2016 ($18, Santa Margherita USA):  The best wines from Alto Adige are crisp, bright, and white, marked by mineral-like accents, taut acidity, and refreshing citrus and tart apple flavors.  This one, made with the cultivated hybrid Müller Thurgau grape, fits that profile nicely.  It tastes vivid and vivacious. 
90 Paul Lukacs Dec 4, 2018

Kettmeir, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2018 ($20, Santa Margherita USA):  With so many indifferent Pinot Grigio bottlings flooding the marketplace, it’s refreshing to find one that captures the sensory delights that made the variety popular in the first place.  Kettmeir is a small cooperative winery in the Alto Adige founded a century ago by Giuseppe Kettmeir.  Today, some sixty growers work in concert with the winery to produce classically-styled Alto Adige wines.  Kettmeir’s 2018 Pinot Grigio bottling offers a rare combination of power, depth and elegance.  It shows intense varietal character with aromas of pure peach, pear and citrus fruits backed by floral and spice hints.  The flavors are bright and lively with juicy fruit and floral tones plus a deliciously creamy texture.  Its combination of rich fruit and creamy texture lets it pair well with fresh salmon and a wide range of poultry recipes.  
90 Wayne Belding Nov 26, 2019

Kettmeir, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019 ($20, Santa Margherita USA):  There are many indifferent Pinot Grigio bottlings awash in the marketplace.  It is thus both figuratively and physically refreshing to find one that captures the sensory delights that made the variety popular in the first place.  Kettmeir is a small cooperative winery in the Alto Adige founded a century ago by Giuseppe Kettmeir.  Today, some sixty growers work in concert with the winery to produce classically-styled Alto Adige wines.  Kettmeir’s 2019 Pinot Grigio bottling offers a rare combination of power, depth and elegance.  It shows intense varietal character with aromas of pure peach, pear and citrus fruits backed by floral and spice hints.  The flavors are bright and lively with juicy fruit and floral tones plus a deliciously creamy texture.  Its combination of rich fruit and creamy texture lets it pair well with fresh salmon and a wide range of poultry recipes.     
90 Wayne Belding Feb 23, 2021

Cantina Tramin, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Gewürztraminer “Selida” 2022 ($18, Winebow):  Cantina Tramin is 125 year-old cooperative from Alto Adige.  160 families farm some 270 hectares of vineyards to produce wines sold under the cooperative.   Gewürztraminer is the 6th most planted grape in Alto Adige, and the members of Cantina Tramin has made a name for themselves producing a number of award winning wines from this variety.  The wine’s name, Selida, derives from German for “small farmstead” and is nod to the small producers that make up the cooperative.  Supporting Selida’s prominent floral bouquet are lychee and sweet melon notes with a touch of petroleum.  This textbook example can age 10 years according to the cooperative and the wine will certainly gain complexity and depth as you permit it the time to do so.            
89 Vince Simmon Mar 19, 2024

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige Terlano (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Vorberg” Riserva 2017 ($45, Banville Wine Merchants):  Over and above being a standard-bearer for Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige, this is one of the world’s truly great white wines.  Invariably delicious when first released but equally delicious in different ways over as many as two decades of development, Vorberg Riserva is uncanny for a white that isn’t bolstered by fancy oak like the aristocrats of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy.  I buy this almost every year and do my level best to keep my mitts off of it to allow the bottles to show their stuff over time, but my best is usually not good enough — I drink far too many of them before they’ve shows all the facets they could reveal over an extended period.  This 2017 vintage may not quite be up to 2014 or 2016, which were fantastic (and remain so, of course), but I may be underestimating it a bit at present.  Seriously rich and with a fruit profile that seems a bit riper than usual, this shows quite impressive palate weight but remains fresh thanks to more-than-adequate acidity.  It benefits greatly from undertones of saline minerality on the mid-palate that become overtones in the finish.  The minerality offers a wonderful counterweight to the ripe fruit flavors that recall baked apple pie filling, replete with the spicy edge and all.  Notably better when re-tasted on the second night after opening, this may prove to be yet another ageless wonder from this great house.              
95 Michael Franz Apr 20, 2021

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige Terlano (Italy) Pinot Bianco Riserva “Vorberg” 2017 ($45, Banville Wine Merchants):  Over and above being a standard-bearer for Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige, this is one of the world’s truly great white wines.  Invariably delicious when first released but equally delicious in different ways over as many as two decades of development, Vorberg Riserva is uncanny for a white that isn’t bolstered by fancy oak like the aristocrats of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy.  I buy this almost every year and do my level best to keep my mitts off of it to allow the bottles to show their stuff over time, but my best is usually not good enough — I drink far too many of them before they’ve shows all the facets they could reveal over an extended period.  This 2017 vintage may not quite be up to 2014 or 2016, which were fantastic (and remain so, of course), but I may be underestimating it a bit at present.  Seriously rich and with a fruit profile that seems a bit riper than usual, this shows quite impressive palate weight but remains fresh thanks to more-than-adequate acidity.  It benefits greatly from undertones of saline minerality on the mid-palate that become overtones in the finish.  The minerality offers a wonderful counterweight to the ripe fruit flavors that recall baked apple pie filling, replete with the spicy edge and all.  Notably better when re-tasted on the second night after opening, this may prove to be yet another ageless wonder from this great house.          
95 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2022

Cantine Terlano, Alto Adige Terlano Classico (Italy) "Nova Domus Riserva" 2013 ($58, Banville Wine Merchants): Cantina Terlano’s Nova Domus Riserva is a revelation.  Very few white wines offer the intensity, depth, texture and sheer hedonistic pleasure that this one does.  The vineyard sources for this outstanding blend (Pinot Bianco 60%, Chardonnay 30%, Sauvignon Blanc 10%) are steep, low-yielding sites from 800 to 2000 feet in elevation.  With meticulous care taken in the vineyard and winery, the result is a white of impressive power and depth.  The 2013 Nova Domus offers a full and exotic style, with aromas of peach, pear, pineapple and guava fruits backed by floral, sage and spice hints.  A cascade of rich fruits unfolds across the palate.  The seductively luscious and creamy texture gives the wine satisfying substance and great length. This profound white shows the potential of Alto Adige wines and particularly Pinot Biancos.  Delicious now, the Nova Domus Riserva has the capacity to cellar well for another decade.
96 Wayne Belding Apr 18, 2017

Kettmeir, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Müller Thurgau 2013 ($23, Fine Italian Wines & Estates): Often dismissed as a pedestrian variety, Müller Thurgau can yield wines of real sophistication in the Alpine Italian region of Alto Adige, where the mountainous terrain and climate combine to give white wines an impressive impression of lightness on the palate.  This particular example tastes of crisp autumn fruit with a spicy edge, all introduced by a sweet, somewhat floral bouquet.  It’s simply delicious.
93 Paul Lukacs Mar 31, 2015

Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2014 ($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): This clean and fresh Pinot Blanc conveys a lovely delicacy, but has sufficient weight -- and a subtle creaminess -- to complement a light pasta course.  Its floral and lacey character also makes it a perfect choice as either a stand-alone aperitif.
89 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2015

Kettmeir, Alto Adige-Sudtirol (Italy) Muller Thurgau 2014 ($22): This area of northern Italy, the Sudtirol, belonged to Austria prior to World War I. It has a long history of success with the aromatic whites that are native to Germany and Austria. Kettmeir's Muller Thurgau is a superb example of a white from this alpine climate, showing notes of spice and brioche, with hints of pear and citrus. A delicious and refreshing summer white that will transition easily to the robust cuisine of fall and winter.
91 Robert Whitley Aug 2, 2016

Kettmeir, Alto Adige-Sudtirol (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2015 ($22, SM USA): A refresher to toast the waning summertime.  Grilled peach, loquat, melon and citrus zest define this lively, dry white in both aroma and flavor, and they finish together in refreshing, lip smacking fashion.  There will be plenty of time for reds soon enough.
90 Rich Cook Sep 19, 2017

Kettmeir, Alto Adige-Südtirol (Italy) Muller Thurgau 2016 ($21, Santa Margherita USA):  This lovely Italian white wine charms immediately with its aromatic intensity.  Generous in the mouth, it offers notes of summery peaches and hints of baking spice. It is full on the palate and has a generous finish.  Müller-Thurgau can often seem somewhat pale and bland, but the best ones, such as this offering from Kettmeir, can be absolutely delicious.  Serve it as an aperitif or with light foods (broiled sole or trout for example). 
90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 5, 2019

Kurtatsch, Cortaccia (Alto Adige, Italy) Müller Thurgau 2021 ($16, Vineyard Brands):  Alto Adige (or Südtirol in German) remains a delightful mixing-ground of Italian and Austrian cultures in spite of the blood and tears spilled to reach where it is today.  (A regional wine official once told me, “We use ‘Alto Adige’ on wines because Italian wines sell better than Austrian, but ‘Südtirol” sounds like a better tourist destination.”)  Anyway, where else in Italy would you find a Müller Thurgau-based varietal wine?  This is a very nice one – light, but very lively and quite aromatic with a combination of green fruit and crisp apple flavors, good acidity and a touch of tannins.           
90 Roger Morris Sep 12, 2023

Alois Lageder, Dolomiti (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Bianco 2009 ($16, Dalla Terra/ Alois Lageder USA):  Pinot Blanc (or Bianco in Italy) rarely gets the respect it (sometimes) deserves.  True, winemakers often treat it as a second-class varietal, resulting in wines that taste fine but unexciting.  Yet when grown and vinified with care, this grape can yield genuinely compelling wines.  This Bianco, for example, is multi-dimensional and beautifully balanced.  Filled with flavors reminiscent of apples and pears, it augments these with secondary notes echoing  smoky spice and freshly-mown hay.  Very long and evolved through the finish, it gives proof that Pinot Blanc can yield truly superlative wines--when, of course, it gets the attention too often reserved for other grapes and other wines. 91 Paul Lukacs Feb 15, 2011

Aristos, Sudtirol (Alto Adige, Italy) Veltliner 2008 ($25, Vinity Wine Company):  The Italians call the grape Veltliner Verde, the Austrians Grüner Veltliner, but either way, the popular white wine offers high-profile fruit with a pleasant spiciness.  This pricey Veltliner from Aristos has a light gold color, very low intensity aroma with floral and herbal notes.  The flavors are slightly candied, although the finish, at 14% alcohol, is dry.  87 Gerald D. Boyd May 25, 2010

Aristos, Sudtirol (Alto Adige, Italy) Kerner 2008 ($28, Vinity Wine Company):  The notes provided by Aristos claims this Kerner as “the noblest of white wines.”  A bold statement, especially when you put Kerner beside such noble white varieties as Riesling.  I found the wine to have a very pale straw color, mild aromatics of nectarines and spice, sweetish fruit flavors, good acidity and an odd astringency in the finish.  There is also a little heat in the finish from the 15% alcohol 87 Gerald D. Boyd May 25, 2010

Aristos, Sudtirol (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2008 ($26, Vinity Wine Company):  This is a pricey straight-forward Northern Italy-style Pinot Grigio sporting a pale straw color, light-medium tropical fruit and citrus aromatics, good flavor and fruit, soft texture and 14.5% alcohol.  There’s plenty of sweet fruit in this wine, but a tad more acidity and a little less alcohol would give it the zing for which Italian Pinot Grigios are known. 85 Gerald D. Boyd May 25, 2010

Alois Lageder, Südtirol - Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio "Porer" 2018 ($26, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Südtirol-Alto Adige is Italy’s northernmost wine region, situated on the borders of Switzerland, Lichtenstein and Austria.  Though it is one of the smallest wine regions in Italy, it nevertheless boasts the largest percentage of vineyard area classified as DOC.  Alois Lageder once told me “it is where the cool air of the Alps in the north and warm sun of the Mediterranean of the south come together.”  Like many of us today, the Lageders’ concern is climate change, especially for Pinot Grigio, because it is not a naturally a grape with high acidity.  Porer is one of the wines in their “Composition” line, because it’s composed of three versions of Pinot Grigio.  One portion of the grapes was pressed immediately upon arrival at the winery and the juice fermented in large oak barrels, spending a bit of time on the lees.  The second part spent 15 hours on skins, then was fermented.  For the third part, whole grape clusters spent a full year before being fermented, then spent another eight months on the skins after fermentation.  The proportion of each component varies each year, but generally the blend is 70 percent part one, 20 percent part two and ten percent part three.  I did not know any of this when I tasted the wine, but my tasting notes suggested something different was going on.  The color is a striking golden color with copperish pink highlights and aromas of baked apple, pears and fresh peach with a touch of beeswax.  It is lush, creamy and round in the mouth with baked apple, pear, flavors with subtle notes of lemon peel and vanilla and lively, bright acidity.  The long finish is slightly chewy and slightly, pleasantly bitter.     
92 Rebecca Murphy Mar 9, 2021

Cantina Tramin, Südtirol/Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2012 ($14, Winebow): If you generally stifle a yawn when you hear the words “Pinot Grigio” I’m with you.  But trust me:  Tramin’s expression of the Italian grape is a whole other story. This Pinot Grigio has a full, plush body and a tangle of lovely flavors emphasizing fresh fruit and delicate floral elements.  What makes the whole thing work so deliciously is the backbone of acidity and minerality in this enticing wine.
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 19, 2013

Peter Zemmer, Sudtirol-Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2014 ($16, HB Wine Merchants): A very crisp and bright Pinot Grigio, with aromas and flavors of pear, lychee, melon, granite, and citrus zest, delivered on racy acidity and leaving a full mix of flavors in the long finish.  A refreshing cocktail style with a slight touch of residual sugar that you'll appreciate on that odd warm winter's day that gives you a hankering for something white.
90 Rich Cook Dec 8, 2015

Cantina Terlano, Terlaner Classico Alto Adige (Alto Adige, Italy) 2013 ($25, Banville & Jones Wine Merchants): Terlano, the name of the co-op formed in 1860, is also the name of the town, which can lead to some confusion.  There’s nothing confusing about the wine, however.  This harmonious blend of Pinot Bianco (60%), Chardonnay (30%) and Sauvignon Blanc combines richness with vibrancy.   A versatile wine, it does double duty as an welcoming aperitif or to accompany grilled fish or a roast chicken.
89 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2014

Cantina Terlano, Trentino (Alto Adige, Italy) Sauvignon "Winkl" 2021 ($39, Banville Wine Merchants):  Terlano Winkl 2021 Sauvignon Blanc is a glistening pale yellow-gold bursting forth with aromas of bright lemon, fresh-cut herbs, white blossoms, and wet stones.  The palate is marvelously focused with citrus, stone fruit, and a limestone streak.  As you continue to sip this wine, you can taste a hint of candied melon.  The multifaceted, well-structured flavor derives from an interplay of freshness and minerality and a persistent and flavorsome finish.    
93 Miranda Franco Oct 11, 2022

Alois Lageder, Trentino - Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco “Haberle” 2014 ($26, Dalla Terra):  Lageder’s regular Pinot Bianco is quite good and costs about $15, but this Haberle bottling is even better, with a slightly honeyed character enhancing the bright but rich fruit. 91 Paul Lukacs May 9, 2017

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Kerner 2006 ($19, Vias Imports): I love this wine!  I always order it when I see it on restaurant (mainly Italian) wine lists.  Kerner, a cross between Riesling and Trollinger, grows at about 2,000 feet at Abbazia di Novacella.  The grape was bred to withstand extreme climates.  The 2006 Abbazia Kerner is very aromatic and crisp, with a hint of Muscat, rich in extract, with lots of intense fruit and mineral flavors, and a long finish on the palate. 94 Ed McCarthy Jun 26, 2007

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Gewürztraminer 2006 ($24, Vias Imports): I have never been a fan of Gewürztraminer wines because I generally find most of them to have excessive richness and not enough acidity.  Abbazia di Novacella's Gewürztraminer is an exception.  Its 2006 has the characteristic aroma of roses, but has really good acidity, and its flavors are restrained.  A Gewürztraminer I can enjoy, giving hints of its spicy origins without going over-the-top. 92 Ed McCarthy Jun 26, 2007

Abbazia Di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015 ($20): As a category, Pinot Grigio often seems designed to be boringly neutral, or perhaps simply inoffensive, but this offering from mountainous Northern Italy is far from boring.  With aromas of white blossoms, the wine is medium-bodied, creamy, and displays notes of pear and gravelly minerality.  Showing the freshness one always hopes for from wines grown at high altitudes, this is a very elegant wine indeed.
92 Marguerite Thomas Aug 29, 2017

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Kerner 2015 ($21): If you’ll be compelled to entertain a know-it-all gasbag over the holidays, you’ll want to get a bottle of this for deflation purposes.  Barely anybody has tasted Kerner, and fewer still know what it is, so if you need to take somebody down a peg, this is your ticket.  However, that’s hardly the sole reason to buy this wine, as it is downright delicious and very interesting on its own or with a wide range of foods.  Kerner is a cross between Trollinger and Riesling, valued by growers for its resistance to frost and winter kill -- and by drinkers for its remarkable combination of intense spiciness and minerality with tropical fruit flavors and underlying nuttiness.  This excellent producer was particularly successful with this variety in 2015, so you should consider buying this by the case…which is exactly what I did.
92 Michael Franz Nov 29, 2016

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Sylvaner 2006 ($18, Vias Imports): Sylvaner is often called 'the Pinot Noir of white varieties' because it's so difficult to grow well.  In its native Germany, Sylvaner usually yields rather pedestrian wines.  The 2006 Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner is excellent.  It is dry, yet viscous, and packed with concentrated white fruits and mineral flavors. 92 Ed McCarthy Jun 26, 2007

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Gewurztraminer 2008 ($28, Vias Imports):  In my opinion this is just about as good as Gewurztraminer gets.  Whereas most examples are distractingly perfumed and lacking in acidity, this is restrained but expressive in terms of aroma, juicy and flavorful on the palate, and balanced and integrated in the finish.  Effectively a nearly dry wine thanks to its exceptional acidity, this can work very well at the table with a wide range of foods--not just the stereotypical choice of spicy Asian foods.  Come to think of it, this would be wicked good with a Thanksgiving turkey. 92 Michael Franz Nov 9, 2010

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2008 ($23, Vias Imports):  I hope that I won’t be thought to be damning this wine with faint praise by saying that this is the best Pinot Grigio I’ve tasted all year. Certainly those producers in Italy, Alsace, Oregon and elsewhere who are trying to do something special with this often underwhelming grape deserve full credit for their efforts.  This rendition is medium-bodied, with substantial palate weight and lovely flavors of ripe pears and baked apples that benefit from a refreshing acidic edge that lifts and structures the finish.  There’s also an appealing minerality that lends additional complexity, and all of these elements are quite symmetrically arrayed.  An excellent wine. 91 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2009

Weingut Köfererhof, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, italy) Sylvaner 2010 ($22, DeGrazia Imports):  I’m not sure whether the Silvaner grape variety (spelling it with an “i” is more common than spelling with a “y”) ever enjoyed much favor, but it sure has fallen out of favor with consumers these days.  The wines made with it too often seem earthy to the point of dirtiness, with an odd note reminiscent of stewed tomatoes.  Every once in a while, though, I run across a Silvaner that tastes absolutely riveting.  So with this example from Weingut  Köfererhof in the Alto Adige region of far northern Italy.  With crisp green apple fruit flavors, a firm core of acidity, and a slightly honeyed, mineral-laden finish, it is a sheer delight to drink.  So while I don’t recommend that you buy most Silvaners, I do urge you to try this particular one.  It’s delicious. 91 Paul Lukacs Jul 10, 2012

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2006 ($19, Vias Imports): If only all Pinot Grigios were as good as Abbazia di Novacella's!  Its 2006 is lively and crisp, with the acidity which is lacking in most commercially produced Pinot Grigios.  It is dry, medium-bodied, with fresh, tart pear flavors. 90 Ed McCarthy Jun 26, 2007

Abbazia di Novacella, Valle Isarco (Trentino - Alto Adige, Italy) Kerner 2018 ($20, Abbazia Novacella USA):  This wine has been on my personal wine list for more years that I can remember.  And why not?  It boasts spicy, floral aromas, and apple, pear and citrus flavors with citrusy acidity are surprisingly round and voluptuous.  It is serves quite well as an aperitif and pairs well with a creamy lemon pasta.  The Alto Adige, aka Sud-Tirol, region of northeastern Italy borders on Austria and Switzerland, so it is a bilingual area.  In the Valle Iscaro only white wine grapes are grown.  Kerner, according to Wine Grapes by Robinson et al, is a cross between probable native Alto Adige red grape Schiava Grosso and Riesling.  It was aptly named for Justinius Kerner, a physician who recommended “that his patients drink a glass of wine as the best natural medicine.”   
90 Rebecca Murphy Aug 25, 2020

Pacher Hof, Valle Isarco DOC (Italy) Kerner 2018 ($30, Vias Imports):  Kerner is a botanical cross based on Riesling.  It was bred in 1929 by August Herold by crossing the red grape Trollinger, known in Italy as Schiava, with the white grape Riesling.  Kerner is most commonly cultivated in Germany but was introduced in Alto Adige in the early 1970s.  The Pacher Hof 100 percent Kerner has an intensely aromatic nose, with peach, apricot, and orange blossom notes.  It is brilliantly juicy with crisp acidity and offers the minerality that is a prominent feature of whites from Alto Adige.  If you love Riesling, you'll love this.      
92 Miranda Franco Mar 30, 2021

Pacherhof, Valle Isarco, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2018 ($30):  A beautiful white wine from Italy’s mountainous Alto Adige, this Pinot Grigio is at the same time fresh and richly flavored, with buoyant acidity and a generous finish.  The estate is managed by the great-grandson of Pacherfhof’s founder.  Few wines are as well suited to partnering with shellfish and other seafood as excellent Pinot Grigio such as this one.        
93 Marguerite Thomas Oct 26, 2021

Luna Nuda, Vigneti delle Dolomite IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015 ($15):  This pinot grigio from the Alto Adige district in the north of Italy is bright and clean, with fresh aromas of lime flower and green apple and crisp acidity that cleanses the palate. Perfect for light pastas and tapas, or steamed shellfish.
88 Robert Whitley Oct 4, 2016

Lagaria, Vigneti Delle Dolomiti (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio Ramato 2018 ($18, Empson USA):  The Pinot Grigio vineyards from which this wine are sourced are located in Northern Italy, surrounded by the dramatic Dolomite Mountains, and if high wind-blown mountains had flavor, this fresh, stony, crisp, aromatic and bracing wine would embody it.  “Ramato” is a pale, delicately pink color with a subtle touch of gray (“grigio”), while the flavor profile hints at citrus and crunchy apple.  Lovely any time of year, Lagaria’s Pinot Grigio seems especially refreshing on a warm summer day.   
92 Marguerite Thomas Jul 14, 2020

Alois Lageder, Vigneti delle Dolomiti (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2009 ($14, Dalla Terra):

 Lageder is probably best known for his white wines and this lovely Pinot Bianco might be clue as to why that is. It shows a floral, honeyed nose of baked apples and pears, juicy and refreshing acidity on the palate, and a clean, fresh finish; a perfect quaffer, but serious enough to tackle steamed shellfish, grilled fish and savory tapas.

Tiefenbrunner, Vigneti delle Dolomiti (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020 ($16, Winebow):  With so many indifferent Pinot Grigio bottlings flooding the marketplace, it’s refreshing to find one that captures the sensory delights that made the variety popular in the first place.  The Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof winery was established in 1848 in the Alto Adige region.  Winemaker Christof Tiefenbrunner works in concert with select local growers to produce classically-styled wines.  The 2020 Pinot Grigio bottling offers a rare combination of fresh fruit, depth and elegance.  It shows intense varietal character with aromas of pure peach, pear and citrus fruits backed by floral and spice hints.  The flavors are bright and lively with juicy peach and pear fruit, floral tones and a deliciously creamy texture.  Its combination of rich fruit and texture lets it pair well with fresh salmon and a wide range of poultry recipes.     
91 Wayne Belding Apr 19, 2022

Tiefenbrunner, Vigneti delle Dolomiti (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2021 ($17, Winebow):  Tiefenbrunner, for me, remains among the best buys of all Pinot Grigios.  It is one that captures the sensory delights that made the variety popular in the first place.  The Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof winery was established in 1848 in the Alto Adige region.  Winemaker Christof Tiefenbrunner works in concert with select local growers to produce classically-styled wines.  The 2021 Pinot Grigio bottling continues the tradition of quality.  It offers a lovely combination of fresh fruit, depth and elegance.  It shows vivid Pinot Grigio character with aromas of pure peach, pear and citrus fruits backed by floral and spice hints.  The flavors are bright and lively with juicy peach and pear fruit, floral tones and a deliciously creamy texture.  Its combination of rich fruit and texture allows it to pair well with fresh salmon or a wide range of poultry recipes.         
91 Wayne Belding Mar 21, 2023

Alois Lageder, Vigneti Delle Dolomiti (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Bianco “Terra Alpina” 2021 ($18, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The wines of Alto Adige deserve to be more widely appreciated than they are, particularly Pinot Bianco, which is potentially marvelous.  More of the world’s best renditions of the variety are released from Alto Adige than anywhere, and one would think that Alois Lageder would be a leader among leaders, as he was a pioneer of ultra-conscientious viticulture in the area, with a generally well-deserved reputation for excellence as a result.  However, this wine is always just “pretty good,” and I’ve long worried that by leaving first-time tasters with that impression when they know of Lageder’s stature, it actually does more harm than good for the region’s renditions of Pinot Bianco.  Although it is always fresh and pleasant with no flaws, it never shows noteworthy concentration nor much depth of flavor, and that’s what I found when trying this during a trip.  Not surprisingly, it was the only Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige available where I was staying, and consequently everyone who tries it there will think—“Alto Adige Pinot Bianco is…pretty good.”  This should be better than it is, and if anyone can explain to me why it isn’t, I’m all ears.       
88 Michael Franz Aug 15, 2023

Bollini, Vigneti Delle Dolomiti IGT (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019 ($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):   Complex isn’t a word I often use when describing Pinot Grigio, but it fits the bill here.  Pear, lemon, and granite minerality are well knit together by bracing acidity, and the flavors linger long after the liquid is gone.  Summer is almost here, and this is perfect for it.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.     
93 Rich Cook Jun 22, 2021

Tiefenbrunner, Vignetti Dell Dolomiti (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019 ($17, Winebow):  Encompassing a perfect orchestra of tastes and textures, this charming Italian white wine offers a crescendo of fruit including pear, apple and citrus, with discreet floral and mineral notes in the background and tapering to a sublime finish dominated by lively acidity.  This Pinot Grigio’s purity and freshness are enhanced by fermentation in stainless steel and by the use of a screw cap closure.  For all its apparent delicacy, the wine is surprisingly versatile at the table.  Not surprisingly it is delicious with delicate seafood and creamy pasta dishes, but I’ve also enjoyed it with spicy and/or briny dishes such as spicy shoyu ramen.      
92 Marguerite Thomas Nov 24, 2020

Tiefenbrunner, Vignetti Delle Dolomite IGT (Alto Adige, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020 ($15, Winebow):  Holiday entertaining requires a wine that is at home with many different flavors like this Pinot Grigio from the Tiefenbrunner family.  It is bright and fresh with lightly floral aromas.  Peach, melon and grapefruit flavors are balanced with crisp acidity.  Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof Wine Estate is located in northeastern Italy in a region called Sudtirol-Alto Adige.  Sabine and Christoph are the fifth generation of the Tieffenbrunner family to own and produce wine.  They own over 60 acres of vines and source grapes from 40 grape growers, powering the winery with an updated version of the hydropower station built by family member Johann in 1910.     
93 Rebecca Murphy Nov 16, 2021

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Red:

Paternoster, Aglianico del Vulture (Italy) Don Anselmo 2003 ($55):  The only Aglianico del Vulture which reaches the price of Barolo.  Paternoster makes several Aglianico del Vultures, but its Don Anselmo Vineyard bottling is the most traditionally made and its most impressive wine, even in the hot 2003 vintage.  Great power and concentration, with a very long finish.  An exciting wine. 93 Ed McCarthy May 1, 2007

Paternoster, Aglianico del Vulture (Basilicata, Italy) “Rotondo” 2005 ($80, Quintessential):  This is the best Aglianico del Vulture ever to pass my lips, and that is saying something, as I love Aglianico and believe that it is every inch as great a grape as its more famous Italian siblings Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.  This rendition is very impressively concentrated and intense in aroma and flavor, which is a good thing, since it was also layered up with lots of fancy, smoky, toasty French oak.  The dark, dense fruit is nevertheless clearly up to the challenge posed by all of that wood influence, and the wine is already in balance and poised for a decade of further improvement. 93 Michael Franz Feb 23, 2010

Musto Carmelitano, Aglianico del Vulture (Basilicata, Italy) “Pian del Moro” 2012 ($30, Tenth Harvest): I have become a fan of the rustic, hearty red wines from this fairly obscure appellation in the arch of the foot in the Italian boot.  Grown in the rocky, lava rich soils of the extinct Vulture volcano, they have an intensity that Aglianicos from Campania often lack.  At the same time, though, they are earthier and hence less graceful.  This is an excellent example.  Taut and tannic, it offers well-integrated dark fruit and leathery flavors.  I suspect that the tannins will never really soften, so it is not a wine for folks who prefer their reds to be soft and supple.  But for wine lovers who want real guts in what they drink, this is delicious stuff.
92 Paul Lukacs Sep 19, 2017

Cantine del Notaio, Aglianico del Vulture (Italy) “La Firma” 2003 ($38, Michael Skurnik): The La Firma is Cantine del Notaio's most ambitious Aglianico (Its less concentrated brother, 'Il Repertorio,' sells for $12 less).  The 2003 La Firma exhibits aromas and flavors of blackberries and cherries, combined with a rich texture and rather high alcohol (14.5%).  A bit on the ripe, forward style, a reflection of the vintage. 91 Ed McCarthy May 1, 2007

Cantine del Notaio, Aglianico del Vulture (Italy) “La Firma” 2003 ($38, Michael Skurnik): The La Firma is Cantine del Notaio's most ambitious Aglianico (Its less concentrated brother, 'Il Repertorio,' sells for $12 less).  The 2003 La Firma exhibits aromas and flavors of blackberries and cherries, combined with a rich texture and rather high alcohol (14.5%).  A bit on the ripe, forward style, a reflection of the vintage. 91 Ed McCarthy May 1, 2007

Re Manfredi, Aglianico del Vulture (Basilicata, Italy) 2011 ($32, Frederick Wildman): This is a powerful red wine with rich fruit and a rustic style that reflects its origin.  Grown in volcanic soils on the slopes of Monte Vulture in southern Italy, the Aglianico grapes yield an aromatic and rich wine.  Blackberry and blackcurrant fruit aromas are enhanced by elements of herbs, roasted espresso, smoke, vanilla and spice.  It offers a mouthful of flavor, with the rich black fruits backed by coffee, mint, black pepper, smoke and baking spice tones.  This is a satisfying red wine that can pair will with your most flavorful recipes.
91 Wayne Belding Mar 3, 2015

Basilium, Aglianico del Vulture (Italy) Riserva 2001 ($60, Salvia Bianca Imports): Aglianico, a robust red grape likely brought to southern Italy by the Greeks between the seventh and sixth centuries BC, is at home in Campania and Basilicata, the latter a small region between the toe and heel of the boot-shaped Italian peninsula. This Aglianico, from the Vulture zone near the hillside town of Acerenza is made from old vines rooted in tufa soils.  It is aged for five years in large oak botte and finished at 14.7% alcohol.  The color is deep and inky, while the slightly closed nose shows ripe dark fruits with a leafy-vegetal back note and no alcohol or oak.  Thick and textural, the rustic flavors are full and fruity, with big tannins, concentrated berry notes and traces of tar.  This is a big wine deserving of a hearty meal based on braised, grilled or roasted meats. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 17, 2009

Terra dei Re, Aglianico del Vulture (Italy) “Vultui” 2004 ($20, Empson): The Terra dei Re winery was a real discovery for me.  It makes three excellent Aglianico del Vultures.  Its 'Divinus' might be more impressive and its 'Nocte,' harvested at night, is also very good, but I love the lean, dry, lively Vultui, with its great acidity balanced by its cherry fruit flavors.  Also, only 12.5% alcohol, quite unusual nowadays.  Its vineyards are 1200 to 2,000 feet high on the Vulture slopes.  Note the great price! 90 Ed McCarthy May 1, 2007

Alovini, Aglianico del Vulture (Italy) “Al Volo” 2001 ($28, Vinopoli Imports; Classic Wines): The Al Volo is Alovini's richest Aglianico; it has spent 12 months in barriques.  Tannins are soft, making it quite approachable now, although it should age well for several more years.  Good value. 89 Ed McCarthy May 1, 2007

Eubea, Aglianico del Vulture (Italy) “Ròinos” 2003 ($30, Bacchanal Wine Imports): Eugenia Sasso, daughter of Francesco Sasso of Cantine Sasso (one of the more prestigious Aglianico del Vulture producers), has not had it easy being accepted as one of Basilicata's only female winemakers.  Her three Aglianico wines are made in the dry, lean, tannic style, but the Ròinos is the richest of the three.  The 2003 Ròinos, in fact, although it has the ripe flavors characteristic of the vintage, is quite enjoyable to drink now. 89 Ed McCarthy May 1, 2007

Giannattasio, Aglianico del Vulture (Italy) “Arca” 2004 ($32, Bacchanal Wine Imports): The 2004 Arca has firm tannins, is dry and medium-balanced, a pleasant change after the rich 2003s.  Rather modern style, less rustic than many of the other Aglianico del Vultures. 89 Ed McCarthy May 1, 2007

Paternoster, Aglianico del Vulture (Basilicata, Italy) “Synthesi” 2007 ($25, Quintessential):  Aglianico is a grape that can produce deep, brooding wines.  There’s a bit of that element here with gamy, slightly tarry--some might say, funky--undertones.  But the tannins, while present, are by no means aggressive, which makes it a good choice now for a late winter hearty stew or a grilled spring leg of lamb. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2011

Terra Dei Re, Aglianico del Vulture (Basilicata, Italy) “Vultur” 2004 ($20, Empson USA):

With its slightly smoky flavor and leather-scented undertones, this concentrated but not heavy red displays high quality coupled with a distinct character.  Balance and harmony distinguish any good wine, and this one certainly exhibits as much.  At the same time, it tastes individualistic, so in the sea of same-tasting wines on the market today, it seems special to sip.

D’Angelo, Aglianico del Vulture DOC (Basilicata, Italy) 2013 ($20, Cantiniere Imports & Distributing):  The volcanic soil of a region where the winters can be harsh and the summers extremely hot may not provide the most hospitable environment for you and me, but it certainly seems a good place for D’Angelo’s Aglianico grapes to grow.  The wines are dark ruby red and intensely flavored.  In youth the tannins can be off-putting, but give them a few years and they become more polished and refined, and with a little more time they’ll develop a velvety texture, with flavors that are rich and penetrating.  
93 Marguerite Thomas Dec 18, 2018

D’Angelo , Aglianico del Vulture DOC (Basilicata, Italy) 2018 ($23, Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants):  The D’Angelo winery sits just to the East of Monte Vulture, an enormous extinct volcano.  Monte Vulture towers over the region and its eruption provided the volcanic soils for which the region is known.  D’Angelo’s Aglianico del Vulture is an excellent food-friendly red featuring notes recalling tobacco leaf, blackberry, red cherry, wild strawberry, potting soil, and leather.  While Aglianico can age, D’Angelo recommends enjoying this wine in its youth.  This bottle is perfect for steak or other rich red meat.     
91 Vince Simmon Feb 7, 2023

Pipoli, Aglianico del Vulture DOC (Basilicata, Italy) 2016 ($17, Empson USA):  Basilicata, the mountainous, largely isolated instep of the Italian boot, has been named Europe’s cultural capital for 2019.  Don’t expect too may tourists.  It’s difficult to get to Basilicata.  There are no airports or high speed train lines, just narrow roads that climb up and twist down mountains.  Despite centuries of conquests, the people here cherish their independence.  They also love their idiosyncratic red wine, made with Aglianico grapes grown on the side of a volcano, Mount Vulture.  Unlike Aglianico from Campania, it offers no pretense of elegance or sophistication.  Instead, it is hearty and rugged, a wine to pair with wintry stews and pastas, and definitely not a wine for the faint of heart or palate.  This example, at a very reasonable price, provides a delicious introduction if you don’t know it already. 
91 Paul Lukacs Dec 4, 2018

D’Angelo, Aglianico del Vulture Riserva (Italy) Vigna Caselle 1998 ($25, Bacchanal Imports; Opici Wine Company): Perhaps because of the extra aging, or simply because D'Angelo is such a fine producer, this Aglianico del Vulture was a standout in the group.  Donato D'Angelo has been carrying the Aglianico del Vulture banner practically single-handedly throughout the world's markets since the 1970s.  The 1998 Vigna Caselle Riserva has lively, spicy tannins, firm acidity, and delicious, dried cherry aromas and flavors, with a long, lingering finish.  A great wine, and a great value. 93 Ed McCarthy May 1, 2007

Bisceglia, Aglianico del Vulture Riserva (Italy) 2001 ($40, Domaine Select Wine Estates): Mr. Bisceglia, who owns the local bottled water company and many other enterprises, is a prime mover in Basilicata's current upsurge.  His 2001 Riserva, aged for 30 months in barrique and bottle, is smooth and balanced, with complex flavors of dried fruits.  His Riserva is clearly Bisceglia's best wine. 90 Ed McCarthy May 1, 2007

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Calabria:

Red:

Librandi, Cirò Classico DOC (Calabria, Italy) “Segno Librandi” 2021 ($19, Winebow):  Librandi is sort of the Robert Mondavi winery of Calabria, the instep of Italy’s boot-shaped peninsula, a winery that makes multiple wines and has helped raised the area’s international standing for quality.  Yet it doesn’t over-reach in doing so, making wines that are on the positive side of the price / value equation.  This one is delightful everyday drinking.  Its lightish color belies a solid structure and intense mature fruit flavors with lots of dusty tannins – a nice every day comfort wine.       
89 Roger Morris Jun 27, 2023

Ippolito 1845, Cirò Rosso Classico Superiore DOC (Calabria, Italy) “Liber Pater” 2019 ($18, Enotec Imports):  Comprised of 100% Gaglioppo, this offers a lot of distinctive character for $18, and that “character” doesn’t come at the cost of this seeming weird or off-putting in any way.  Medium-bodied but just barely, and capable benefitting from a light chilling but certainly not limited to that usage, this will work very well with grilled fish, moderately robust pasta dishes, or poultry.  It is also notable as a relatively rare wine from Italy that is an excellent stand-along sipper, which is notable for the simple reason that the great majority of Italian reds are structured for the table.  The fruit recalls plums and dark cherries, with no evident wood influence and light tannins that are well matched to the weight and flavor impact of the wine.  Fun without being frivolous, this is a fine choice to keep around one’s house to grab and enjoy on impulse, or for restaurant wine lists thanks to its versatility — though it won’t sell itself without some staff training.      
90 Michael Franz Sep 6, 2022

Librandi, Ciró Superiore Riserva DOC (Calabria, Italy) “Duca San Felice” 2012 ($18, Winebow): One of this Italian beauty’s notable characteristics is its wonderfully lithe and silky texture held in check by a firm tannic grip.  A lovely red wine made from Gaglioppo  and featuring complex cherry, chocolate and spice flavors, with no oak to interfere with its freshness and purity, this is a vino made for food.  Try it with roast chicken, pork, meatballs, sausage, or charcuterie.
93 Marguerite Thomas Feb 28, 2017

Terra di Lavoro, IGT Roccamonfina (Campania, Italy) 2008 ($85, Winebow):  This producer turns out small amounts (2,500 cases/annually) of just one wine, Terra di Lavoro, from Aglianico and Piedrosso grown in estate vineyards in the mountains of northern Campania.  The 2008 is a monumental wine with great power combined with finesse and complexity.  Explosive flavors of dark minerality and black cherry nuances erupt from the glass.  An amazing purity and refinement is apparent in this still young wine.  Easy to appreciate now with its glossy tannins, it will undoubtedly evolve into a very special wine.  Some is going into my cellar. 96 Michael Apstein Sep 13, 2011

Librandi, Val di Neto IGT (Calabria, Italy) “Gravello” 2021 ($30, Winebow):  Librandi’s Gravello was introduced to the international market 30+ years ago, marrying traditional Calabrian wine style with a more modern influence.  It shows the beauty and purity of Calabria’s Gaglioppo grape – thought to be a relative of Sangiovese.  The lovely red cherry fruit of the Gaglioppo is enhanced in this case by blending with Cabernet Sauvignon.  Aged in small oak barrels for a year, the combination is delicious.  Lovely aromas of pure red cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruits are interwoven with tones of lilac, herbs, coffee, vanilla and cinnamon spice.  The flavors are forward and complex, with red and black fruits underscored by a rich texture and delicate floral, herb, coffee, vanilla and spice tones.  Super-Tuscan blends of Sangiovese and Cabernet get lots of accolades, but this Calabrian Gravello blend is as good or better than most of its price peers from the north.       
93 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

Librandi, Val di Neto IGT (Calabria, Italy) "Gravello" 2016 ($26, Winebow):  Gravello was introduced to the international market by Librandi some 20 years ago.  It is a fine example of marrying traditional wine styles with more modern influences.  It shows the beauty and purity of Calabria’s Gaglioppo grape -- thought to be a relative of Sangiovese.  The lovely red cherry fruit of the Gaglioppo is enhanced in this case by blending with Cabernet Sauvignon (40%)..  Aged in small oak barrels, the combination is a sensuous delight.  Lovely aromas of pure red cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruits are interwoven with nuances of lilac, herbs, coffee, vanilla and cinnamon spice.  The flavors are equally exciting, with red and black fruits underscored by a rich texture and delicate floral, herb, coffee, cedar, vanilla and spice tones.  While Super-Tuscan blends still get most of the notoriety, it is well worth the effort to seek out this Super-Calabrian bottle. 
93 Wayne Belding Sep 10, 2019

Rosé:

Ippolito 1845, Ciró DOC (Calabria, Italy) Gagglioppo “Mabilia” Rosé 2020 ($18, Cantiniere Imports):  Calabria, located in the eternally sun drenched toe of the “boot” of southern Italy, is one of the country’s most ancient winemaking regions.  Ippolito, founded in 1845, is the oldest winery in Calabria.  Ciró is a tiny Calabrian commune with some 3000-plus inhabitants.  Gaglioppo, from which this rosé is made, is an ancient Calabrian grape that appears to be a relative of Sangiovese, and Mabilia, in whose honor this wine is named, was an 11th century Norman princess who lived in Calabria.  Steeped in a long stretch of history though this charming wine is, its flavors and texture today are bright and modern.  Among Mabilia’s many attributes are its inviting aromas and tangy flavors including cherry and melon, plus a refreshing dose of saline minerality.         
94 Marguerite Thomas Aug 3, 2021

White:

iGreco, Calabria IGP (Italy) Greco “Filú" 2017 ($17, Vinifera Imports):  Greco is a name applied to grapes of Greek origin grown in southern Italy.  While its true heritage is somewhat uncertain, the variety known a Greco in Calabria makes a fine and characterful dry white.  The 2017 iGreco Filú demonstrates the character of this unusual variety.   Pure apple, lemon zest, peach and tropical fruit aromas are enhanced by scents of white flowers and delicate herbs.  The flavors are juicy, pure and bright with the lemon-lime citrusy tones of the grape bolstered by the intriguing floral and herbal elements.  It’s a delicious and versatile choice for a wide range of seafood recipes. 
90 Wayne Belding Jul 31, 2018

Statti, Calabria IGT (Calabria, Italy) Greco 2008 ($25, Vias Imports):  My prior experience with the Greco grape has been limited to wines from Campania, so this rendition from Calabria was an eye-opening first taste.  Naturally, one cannot extrapolate much from a sample size of one, but this is a wonderful wine with soft rich flavors and very interesting, complex aromas and a mineral-tinged finish.  I tasted it alongside five assorted wines during a food-pairing trial with a shrimp risotto dish (including some significantly more expensive bottlings), and it totally mopped the floor with them.  Substantial but still quite fresh, this will continue to be a marvelously interesting partner for many foods through the summer of 2010. 91 Michael Franz Mar 9, 2010

Ippolito 1845, Cirò Bianco DOC (Calabria, Italy) “Mare Chiaro” 2020 ($18, Enotec Imports):  Made entirely from Greco Bianco, this is less mineral and saline-seeming than many of the more widely known renditions of the variety from Campania, but its open-but-subtle fruitiness makes it an immediately delicious wine.  Restrained aromas and fruit flavors recalling pear and white melon make this seem a bit like fine Pinot Bianco, and it will likely prove equally versatile at the table — which is to say, nearly unmatched for versatility.  A fine streak of minerality lends complexity in the finish, along with notable but restrained acidity that is appropriate to the character of the fruit.  The 2021 vintage of this wine seems to be available in the USA, but don’t worry about grabbing a bottle of this 2020 if you see one, as it is drinking very well right now.     
91 Michael Franz Aug 16, 2022

Librandi, Val di Neto IGT (Calabria, Italy) Mantonica “Efeso” 2014 ($25, Winebow): Round and textured, this is a most unusual and delicious white wine made from Mantonico.  With a little bit of waxiness and a lot of minerality it reminded me somewhat of the Rhône white wines that I love.  It has layers and layers of plush ripe fruit embraced by that chalky minerality and a touch of salinity.  Instead of obvious acidity on the finish, what you get is a long, concentrated, lip-smacking afterglow of flavor and texture.
94 Marguerite Thomas Feb 28, 2017

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Campania:

Red:

Fontanavecchia, Aglianico del Taburno DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2013 ($20):  With its lush and inviting aromas and lively, bold flavors this ruby red Italian beauty is wonderful in so many ways.  Offering a multifaceted taste profile of red fruits bolstered by hints of coffee and chocolate, the flavors burst onto the senses then melt slowly across the palate leaving a fine acidic chaser and a whisper of vanilla scented oak.  Fontanavecchia is a family run estate that dates back to the 19th century.     
91 Marguerite Thomas Nov 3, 2020

Masseria Frattasi, Beneventano IGP (Campania, Italy) Aglianico "Kapnios" 2017 ($50, Ribevi Wines International):  This is a powerful red wine with rich fruit and a rustic style that reflects its origin.  Grown in volcanic soils in Beneventano – a rugged site in southern Italy’s Campania region – the Aglianico grapes yield an aromatic and rich wine.  Masseria Frattasi enhances the ripeness of their grapes by drying them on mats for a few weeks before fermentation.  Blackberry and blackcurrant fruit aromas are enhanced by elements of herbs, smoke, vanilla and spice.  It offers a mouthful of flavor, with layers of rich black fruits backed by coffee, black pepper, smoke and baking spice tones with a zesty raspberry note at the finish.  This is a satisfying red wine that will pair well with your most flavorful recipes.       
93 Wayne Belding Mar 8, 2022

Vesevo, Beneventano IGP (Campania, Italy) Aglianico 2009 ($16, Vin Divino): Though the 2010 vintage of this wine (which I have not yet tried) is available in some stores, plenty of others are still carrying the 2009.  It is delicious, as its tannins have softened with time in bottle, leaving a serious and forceful red that nonetheless tastes sumptuous.  Dark fruit flavors become enhanced by compelling secondary notes reminiscent of tobacco, leather, and dark chocolate.  This is serious stuff at a value price.
91 Paul Lukacs Apr 18, 2017

Feudo Ducale, Beneventano IGT (Campania, Italy) Aglianico 2017 ($23):   Aglianico is the money grape of Campania, where it produces long-lived red wines famous for their hard tannins.  It usually takes years for these wines to come around, but this very young Aglianico shows signs of early drinkability.  The tannins are firm but not unmanageable and they allow the pretty cherry notes to shine.  A hint of sweet tobacco provides additional complexity of aroma.  A steal at the price.  Drink now or hold.  A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
96 Robert Whitley May 29, 2018

Cantina del Taburno, Campania (Italy) Coda di Volpe “Amineo” 2007 ($16, Michael Skurnik Wines): This cooperative, whose winemaking is directed by Luigi Moio, a former winemaker at Feudi di San Gregorio, one of the leading wineries in Campania, clearly knows how to handle Coda di Volpe, a temperamental grape native to the region and subject to oxidation.  Fresh, without a trace of heaviness, this mid-weight white wine offers stone fruit-like flavors and nuances of spiced pears offset by a citric tang. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008

Villa Matilde, Campania IGP (Italy) Aglianico “Rocca dei Leoni” 2017 ($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Aglianico, the grape known for heavyweight wines, such as Taurasi, bottled under screwcap?  Who would have guessed Aglianico-lite would work — but, in Villa Matilde’s hands, it does.  This light to mid-weight red (not a description used very often for Aglianico) delivers engaging hints of tar alongside fine tannins.  The focus here is definitely on the minerals, not the fruit.  Though a lighter style of wine, it is not fleeting.  Indeed, it has a real presence.  Uplifting freshness accompanies its lovely austerity.  A hearty dish is in order.          
91 Michael Apstein May 4, 2021

Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania IGT (Italy) 'Patrimo' 2005 ($150, Palm Bay Imports):  Merlot from Campania?  I was skeptical because often when winemakers plant “international” varieties, such as Merlot, in traditional areas the wines are often over-extracted and overly oaky.  But Feudi di San Gregorio is an excellent producer so if anyone could do it, they could.  And they did.  It doesn’t qualify for one of Campania’s DOCs because Merlot is not recognized in the region.  But the grape has been around because this wine comes from 50-year old vineyards.  Not I’ll-have-a-glass-of-Merlot-before-dinner, this is serious stuff with good density without being overdone.  The oak is in the background allowing earthy flavors—and hints of graphite—to harmonize with the black fruit flavors.  Supple, but not soft, the glossy tannins allow immediate enjoyment, but the balance suggests it will develop nicely over the next several years.  I doubt many will wait. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010

Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania IGT (Campania, Italy) Aglianico "Rubrato" 2006 ($16, Palm Bay International): This is a very tasty, broadly useful rendition of Aglianico, which is almost certainly the finest red variety of southern Italy.  Medium-bodied, the wine shows bright blackberry and black raspberry fruit that is amply supplied with fresh acidity.  The tannins are very fine in grain, and there are interesting nuances of carpaccio and leather in the wine’s aromas.  Pair with lighter pastas with tomato-based sauces or with white meats. 89 Michael Franz Oct 6, 2009

Terredora Di Paolo, Campania IGT (Campania, Italy) Aglianico 2008 ($18, Vias Imports):

This producer is a serious contender for my vote as winery of the year.  This relatively affordable rendering of Aglianico shows lots of fascinatingly rustic character, and is very promising at this point in its development, though still pretty rough-hewn at this stage and in need of a bit more time in bottle.  Dark berry fruit is firmly structured with tart acidity and lots of grippy tannin, so pair this with meat dishes or ages cheeses.

DonnaChiara, Campania IGT (Campania, Italy) Aglianico 2008 ($15, Michelangelo Selection):  Aglianico, with its tough tannins, is difficult to tame.  Yet DonnaChiara, a new producer--at least to the US--has done an admirable job with this one.   Ready to drink now, it still shows the power and intensity of the Aglianico grape.  With juicy black fruity notes predominating, it lacks the complexity of its more upscale stable mates (also reviewed this week), but still is an excellent choice to match with wintertime fare.  Did I forget to mention the bargain price?
87 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

I Favati, Campi Taurasini (Irpinia, Campania, Italy) Aglianico “Cretarossa” 2010 ($23, Vanity Imports): A stunning example of the southern Italian grape variety, this Aglianico has seen only minimal oak, so tastes foremost of fruit and earth, without any sort of char or woody intrusion.  Though full-bodied and packed full of intriguing layered flavors, it never feels heavy and is not at all hot.  Delicious now, it also has the stuffing to age gracefully.  In sum, this is simply a fantastic wine and a must buy.
95 Paul Lukacs Oct 7, 2014

Villa Matilde, Falerno del Massico DOC (Campania, Italy) 2016 ($32, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Falerno del Massico, a small (not even 250 acres) DOC in Campania, retains appeal, in part, because Falerno was considered the great wine of ancient Rome.  With its lava-like underpinnings, Villa Matilde’s, made from a traditional Campania blend of Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso, reflects its origins at the foot of the volcano, Roccamonfina.  This a broad shouldered red, delivering what you’d expect from Aglianico — tar and minerals and power.  And tannins, too.  But there’s underlying voluptuous cherry-like fruit to it, creating a lovely ying/yang of fruit and savory minerality.  Balanced and fresh because of the ever-present enlivening acidity, it finishes with a haunting touch of bitterness.  If you’re drinking it now, open hours in advance and chose a leg of lamb studded with garlic.  Otherwise, find a place in the cellar for it for at least five years.        
93 Michael Apstein May 4, 2021

Mastroberardino, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) "Radici" 2005 ($21, Wilson Daniels): Fiano is Campania's best white grape and, not surprisingly, Fiano di Avellino is Campania's best white wine.  There is no better producer in Campania than Mastroberardino.  Put them together and you have great white wine.  Refined, as is the Mastroberardino style, rather than overt or heavy, it has a slightly flowery bouquet with a very appealing subtle richness and an exceptionally bright and uplifting finish. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 13, 2007

Feudi di San Gregorio, IGT Irpinia Aglianico (Campania, Italy) "Serpico" 2003 ($65, Palm Bay): Coming from three different vineyards of old vines, Feudi's Serpico is one of its super-Aglianico wines, with substantial barrique aging.  Feudi chooses to age it less than the minimum three years required for DOCG Aglianicos because it wants to empasize its enormous concentration of fruit.  A blockbuster of a wine, very rich and ripe, in the modern style. 92 Ed McCarthy May 29, 2007

DonnaChiara, Irpinia (Campania, Italy) 2008 ($20, Michelangelo Selection):  With this DOC Irpinia, DonnaChiara reminds us of the importance of place.  Irpinia and Aglianico is a good marriage because the locale imbues the wine with an intriguing tarry quality and earthiness that complements the black cherry notes.  Polished tannins add structure without a trace of harshness while lip-smacking acidity keeps it fresh.  A step up from their IGT Aglianico, this one unfolds over the course of a meal revealing spice and other non-fruity nuances. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia (Campania, Italy) Aglianico “Rubrato” 2004 ($19, Palm Bay): Located to the northeast of Mt. Vesuvius, Irpinia is Campania's most important wine growing area.  Aglianico, a grape whose roots can be traced to ancient Greece, is the major red variety in the area.  Feudi di San Gregorio--established in 1986--is a relatively new winery for this ancient area.  But they joined the top ranks very quickly, in part because their consulting winemaker, Riccardo Cotarella, is one of Italy's most talented eonologists.  Their 2004 Rubrato, filled with an alluring earthy streak, is appealing now and a fine introduction to Aglianico, which can make broodingly backward wines.  Fresh, with good structure, it is remarkably suave and an excellent choice for tomato-based pasta sauces. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2007

Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia (Campania, Italy) Aglianico “Rubrato” 2008 ($19, Palm Bay International):  I consistently like this red wine, and particularly this 2008 vintage.  It has the guts and inherent quality you expect from southern Italy’s great Aglianico grape, but it is more approachable than Taurasi or Aglianico del Vulture, the iconic Aglianico wines -- and more affordable.  The wine has aromas of fresh herbs, blackberry, and perfume.  In your mouth, it’s medium-plus bodied, dry, and concentrated in flavors of fresh, dark fruit (not at all baked or over-ripe) as well as mineral notes. Its tannin is fairly fine, but definitely operative in the wine’s considerable structure, along with a serious depth of acidity.  Approachable, yes -- I’m happy to drink it tonight.  But if you keep the bottle for a few years, you will probably find it even better than now.  Very food-friendly, with the structure for rich dishes and the freshness of flavor for medium-weight fare. Mary Ewing-Mulligan Nov 27, 2012

Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia Aglianico DOC (Campania, Italy) "Rubrato" 2015 ($17, Terlato Wines International):  Wines made from the Aglianico grape are often referred to as the Barolo of the South because of their firm tannins, high acidity, overall depth and need for bottle age to bring all the components together.  Feudi San Gregorio has managed to marry these elements in this Aglianico and make it a pleasure to drink now -- as long as you select the correct food and time of year.  Think roast lamb in the winter.  This wine delivers tarry nuances along with dark sour cherry notes and supported by firm, yet not aggressive, tannins.  An attractive hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces the idea that this wine is best enjoyed with food, not by itself.  I almost forgot, it’s a terrific bargain. 
94 Michael Apstein Nov 13, 2018

Azienda Agricola Fiorentino, Irpinia Aglianico DOC (Campania, Italy) "Celsi" 2018 ($29, Wine Drops):  In Campania, Aglianico is king of red grapes.  Known for producing powerful, structured red wines, Fiorentino’s Celsì also has a powerful story to match.  The winemaker’s grandfather left Italy in 1914 to find opportunity in the United States, settling in Boston and then Chelsea. The family founded the winery with money sent back, and the wine’s name blends both the Italian heritage with the American place.  Celsì retails for under $30 in the U.S., a bargain for Aglianico of this quality from the region.  Big and balanced, the wine’s black pepper, pencil shavings, and dark fruit body make it an ideal wine to pair with a hearty steak.     
92 Vince Simmon Nov 21, 2023

Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia Aglianico IGT (Campania, Italy) Rubrato 2010 ($18, Palm Bay International): Rubrato simply means ruby. Or, if you use the imagination, red wine meant to be consumed young. That's important with an Aglianico, the most important red grape of southern Italy. The best wines made from Aglianico can easily age 25-30 years, and many of them need a decade or more to shed their hard tannins. Rubrato is a young Aglianico you can drink with pleasure. This vintage from Feudi di San Gregorio shows bright strawberry and cherry fruit, with fresh acidity and firm tannin. 89 Robert Whitley Mar 12, 2013

Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia Aglianico IGT (Campania, Italy) 'Serpico' 2008 ($90, Palm Bay International): There are good wines. There are great wines. Then there are wines that demand their own special category, wines so profound they stun you at the first sip, wines with gravitas. Serpico '08 is one of those. It is the flagship wine of Feudi di San Gregorio, a winery founded in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in the Irpinia region of Campania in 1986. It is 100 percent aglianico from 70-year-old vines planted at elevations of more than 1000 feet in the sandstone, marl and volcanic ash soils of the region. The 2008 is beautifully structured; a well-proportioned wine that exhibits layered blackberry, wild cherry and plum aromas, with touches of vanilla spice and mocha. It also delivers scintillating acidity, smooth tannins and a thread of minerality. This is a monumental wine that will only improve if aged properly over the next 20 years. 100 Robert Whitley Mar 12, 2013

Mastroberardino, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio DOC Rosso (Campania, Italy) Piedirosso 2021 ($25, Taub Family Selections):  Mastroberardino is one of the historically significant names in Italian wine.  Their 2021 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso entry-level selection highlights the distinctive personality of Piedirosso, an indigenous red grape grown in volcanic soil near Mount Vesuvius that showcases the unforgettable taste of Campania.  Cherries, plums, smoky violets, dried black olives, black pepper, and dense herbs are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass.  Refined, polished tannins and bright, fresh acidity make this a lifting, juicy wine.     
92 Miranda Franco Mar 14, 2023

Mastroberardino, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) “Radici" 2006 ($60, Winebow):  Taurasi is often called the Barolo of the south.  Stylistically that’s true.  However, you rarely find a Barolo, or any wine for that matter, of this quality for the price.  Mastroberardino is the producer who practically single handedly showed how great the wines from Campania could be.  And Taurasi is their flagship.  Made entirely from Aglianico, the 2006 is a monumental achievement. Gorgeous floral aromas with a hint of tar waft from the glass.  It conveys a seamless mixture of black cherry-like fruit, tar and flowers that mysteriously reappear in the extraordinarily long finish.  It’s muscular, but not overdone like a body-builder.  The tannins are present--it is Taurasi--but they are polished and glossy, not astringent.  This is a wine for the cellar to be opened in a decade or so.  I’m pleased there’s some in mine. 97 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012

Feudi di San Gregorio, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) “Piano di Montevergine” 2002 ($68, Palm Bay International):  Antonia Capaldo, Feudi di San Gregorio’s winemaker, notes that Taurasi, often described as the Barolo of the South, “needs time to express itself,” which explains why this 2002 is their current release.  This wine, their single vineyard Taurasi, spent two years in barrel followed by five years aging in bottle.   The 10-acre vineyard, from which they make only about 500 cases, sits at just over 2,100 feet above sea level.  The elevation moderates the temperatures and allows the grapes to retain acidity that translates into enlivening freshness, balancing the rich, almost tarry, elements in the wine.  There’s an explosion of flavors in the glass.  Yet the wine retains harmony and grace.  Many consumers avoid all Italian wines from the 2002 vintage because of the generally poor wines coming from Tuscany and Piedmont that year.  Don’t make that mistake with this one.  It’s a winner! 96 Michael Apstein Jul 20, 2010

Mastroberardino, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) "Radici" 2001 ($41, Wilson Daniels): The greatness of Aglianico -- the most important red grape of southern Italy -- is on display for all to see in this exceptional vintage of Mastroberardino's 'Radici' Taurasi. It begins with an inviting nose of black cherries and violets that draws you into this deep, brooding, powerful red. The fruit is a bit shy on the palate until the wine has been opened an aerated, releasing intense flavors of blackberry and plum from beneath a cloak of firm acidity. There is a black pepper/spice note on the back end, an earthy minerality and tight structure that will keep this vintage kicking for decades to come. And at  $41 it's a steal. 96 Robert Whitley Dec 5, 2006

DonnaChiara, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) 2007 ($28, Michelangelo Selection):  Taurasi, Campania’s only DOCG for red wine, gets my vote for Italy’s most under-rated area for making truly great wine.  The consumer benefits because the wines don’t yet command the prices of Barolo, Barbaresco or Brunello.  If Irpinia and Aglianico are a good marriage, Taurasi and Aglianico is a great one, representing a giant leap up and reinforcing the critical importance of where the grapes grow.  Often called the Barolo of the south, Taurasi in general, and DonnaChiara’s 2007 in particular, has the near magical combination of floral notes and deep tarry elements.  As with great young wines, it’s layered and tight at this stage and needs at least five or so years before pulling the cork.  But it’s so refined and full of intrigue now, I’m certain it will be worth the wait.  I know some is going into my cellar. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

Mastroberardino, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) "Radici" 2001 ($41, Wilson Daniels): The minute your nose hits the rim of the glass you know this wine has depth and complexity.  The first taste confirms it.  Taurasi, arguably southern Italy's most famous wine area, is often referred to as the Barolo of the south because of   combination of earthiness and fragrant fruitiness in the wines.  Here the Aglianco grape, especially in Mastroberardino's hands, is transformed into gloriously layered wine.  This big wine, filled with minerals, ripe cherry fruit and an earthy, almost tarry component, needs a few years to unfold and develop.  But I must admit, its balance and class makes in hard to resist now.  It reminds of what Louis Latour once told me, "Great wines taste good at every stage." 95 Michael Apstein Mar 13, 2007

Feudi di San Gregorio, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) 2010 ($40, Palm Bay International): There is no question in my mind that the wines from Taurasi, a small DOCG in Campania, rank with Italy’s, and the world’s, greatest wines.  The Aglianico grape thrives in the climate and volcanic -- it’s near Vesuvius -- soil of the region. Feudi di San Gregorio’s 2010 Taurasi is a splendid young example.  One taste should convince skeptics of the grandeur of this DOCG. Broad and long, it saturates the palate with dark earthiness and minerality wrapped in substantial, but aggressive, tannins.  There’s a wonderful firmness without a trace of hardness.  A hint of bitterness in the finish offsets the dark fruity elements.  Both powerful and stylish, it’s best left in the cellar for at least another five years.
94 Michael Apstein May 12, 2015

Terredora Dipaolo, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) 2003 ($57, Vias Imports): I love mature, judiciously oaked renderings of the Aglianico grape from Campania, and yet this wine still surprised me with how nuanced and intricate it is while still offering loads of meaty, straightforward pleasure.  The core of dark cherry fruit is enveloped in all sorts of accents recalling smoked meat, spices, leather, roasted coffee and dried herbs.  It is now old enough to be showing secondary bottle bouquet, yet there’s still primary fruit in the mix, so it is likely to hold at this high level for another few years. 93 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2009

Nativ, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) 2010 ($45, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Firmly tannic with deep, dark flavors and woodsy notes, this is a rustic wine that nonetheless exudes class and sophistication.  Made primarily with Aglianico grapes, it is very much a food wine, as the tannins may well seem too astringent if sipped on its own.  But paired with braised meats or heady winter-weight stews, it will shine brightly. 91 Paul Lukacs Nov 21, 2017

Fiudi di San Gregorio, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) 2003 ($43, Palm Bay): A very complex wine, this shows a marvelous range of aromas that include dark fruit notes with accents of tobacco leaves, woodsmoke, cocoa, coffee beans and wild mushrooms.  Medium- to full-bodied but not heavy or ponderous, it shows mineral notes in the finish and remarkable integration and balance. 90 Michael Franz Jul 31, 2007

Mastroberardino, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2003 ($43, Wilson Daniels): A fine rendition of what is almost an iconic wine in Campania, the 2003 'Radici' manages to avoid the excesses that mar so many European wines from the famously scorching 2003 vintage.  It's fruit-forward, as reflects that harvest, but still manages to stay balanced and taste deliciously harmonious. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 22, 2008

Mastroberardino, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) "Radici" 2003 ($45, Wilson Daniels): From the very hot summer of 2003, this release of the red Radici displays surprisingly firm acid, and remains tightly wound, indicating a long life ahead. This is a brooding wine that will benefit from decanting, revealing layered black fruits and hints of anise and spice. A lot of air also softens the dusty tannins. This is an Aglianico that is barely approachable as a sipper at this stage, but undergoes a remarkable transformation when served with grilled meats generously seasoned with herbs, garlic and olive oil -- such as my very own grilled veal chops! 90 Robert Whitley Mar 11, 2008

Perillo, Taurasi DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2010 ($83, Wine Drops):  Taurasi is the full bodied King of Campania.  Made from Aglianico, Taurasi is renowned for its ageability.  Unlike most producers, Perillo is doing much of the bottle aging for you. The 2010 vintage was only released in January 2022 and is still available on the market.  Michele realized that his customers enjoyed the young Taurasi but fell in love with it when properly aged.  By releasing it over a decade after its harvest, he’s able to provide a truly incredible experience.  This Taurasi has wonderful prune and dried cranberry notes from bottle aging but also has a unique red currant note that comes through all of the dried fruit.  Classical graphite and cigar box notes round out the wine providing complexity.  While Perillo’s Taurasi has mellowed, it still has excellent structure and is suitable to pair with food — I recommend it with a steak — or on its own.  This is a bottle to buy and enjoy now.  It will last for half-a-decade or more in the cellar, but there really isn’t a need.      
97 Vince Simmon Nov 21, 2023

Mastroberardino, Taurasi DOCG (Campania, Italy) Aglianico "Radici" 2016 ($50, Taub Family Selections):  From the Campania region, Taurasi is the prime appellation for southern Italy’s finest red variety, Aglianico (pronounced “olly-on-ico'").  Taurasi ranks with Piedmont's Barolo and Tuscany's Brunello di Montalcino as Italy’s greatest red wines.  The 2016 Mastroberardino Taurasi boasts serious aging potential and an enticing bouquet of black-skinned fruit, violets, and baking spice.  On the firm, elegantly structured palate, polished tannins and fresh acidity balance flavors of fleshy black cherries, spiced plums, blackberries, and spices.  Some smoky mineral flavors are starting to appear, so hold for more complexity but utterly approachable now.         
93 Miranda Franco Jul 13, 2021

Terredora Di Paolo, Taurasi DOCG (Campania, Italy) Aglianico 2012 ($30, Vias Imports):  Just what Taurasi should be -- bold, dark and peppery, with a huge tannic structure that’s just now becoming approachable.  I would age this long term.  Just how how long is anybody’s guess, but I’d start with about ten more years.   
91 Rich Cook Aug 27, 2019

Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 1999 ($62, Winebow):  I tasted this wine twice recently, once at a tasting and a couple of weeks later, with dinner.  I loved it at the tasting, but frankly a brief taste does not do justice to this gorgeous wine.  Its grandeur really emerges over an hour or two after sitting in a decanter.  (That’s the problem assessing wines at a tasting, but that’s a subject for a different time).  Mastroberardino is the king of Campania wines and Taurasi is his flagship, as well as the region’s most celebrated DOCG.  This is a positively brilliant example of Taurasi.  Fabulously aromatic, it’s both mineraly and floral, sensations that explore on the palate in waves.  It’s dense, dark and mineraly--you can practically feel the volcanic soil--yet not heavy or out of balance.  Despite its size and power, it’s fresh and encourages another glass.  The tannins are still present but proportioned.  I suspect it will continue to develop and improve for decades. 97 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012

Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006 ($80): Though I’ve recommended this wine before, my enthusiasm for it just keeps increasing after tasting it a few more times.  Mastroberardino is perhaps the finest producer in Campania (full disclosure, I’ve not tasted wines from every producer located in that region around Naples, but I’ve also not found any yet that consistently stand up to those of Mastroberardino.)  Taurasi, often referred to as the Barolo of the south of Italy, is the most revered area in Campania.  So, it’s not surprising when you combine a great producer and a great area that you get a truly great wine.  Still youthful, but approachable, it is a heavenly wine at this youthful stage.  Aromatic and powerful, it has astonishing elegance for its size.  It is truly an iron fist in a velvet glove.  It would be an excellent choice for hearty dishes this winter -- just be sure to open and decant it for several hours before you serve it -- but it will be even more enjoyable with another decade of cellaring.  Though not an inexpensive wine, it is underpriced for its quality.  You can be sure as more consumers discover the wines of Campania, the prices will rise as they have in Barolo and Brunello.
97 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2015

Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) "Radici" 2006 ($70, Winebow): Mastroberardino is, without doubt, one of the top producers in Campania and, indeed, in all of Italy.  Their Taurasi is the benchmark for that appellation.  This 2006 Riserva, amazingly still available at retail -- an indication of how underappreciated these are -- is sensational.  The aromas of dark fruit, earth and herbs that come from the glass stop you in your tracks.  Mastroberardino has harnessed the Aglianico grape to produce a wine that’s simultaneously powerful and elegant.  Still a baby, with prominent, yet not aggressive tannins, its explosive flavors emerge slowly.  But there is no question that it’s a great wine.  Big, but not boisterous, this wine has a seemingly paradoxical floral component.  That, along with an early tarriness, explains why Taurasi is called the Barolo of the South -- without Barolo pricing.  I just bought a case of it, which I intend to leave in the cellar for another decade before opening.
96 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014

Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radichi” 2000 ($39, Wilson Daniels): Very refined, tart cherry and herbal aromas and flavors with great concentration of fruit, along with substantial acidity.  This is a wine made for the long haul.  At $39, it is actually a bargain when you compare it to Barolos and Barbarescos. 93 Ed McCarthy May 29, 2007

Terredora, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) CampoRe 2001 ($45, Vias Imports): Taurasi Riservas get four years of aging at the winery and usually need another few years to be at their best.  Teredora's fine CampoRe has excellent concentration, is very dry, but with explosive fruit.  It should only get better in a few more years. 93 Ed McCarthy May 29, 2007

Feudi di San Gregorio, Taurasi Riserva DOCG (Campania, Italy) 'Piano di Montevergine' 2007 ($69, Palm Bay International): This vintage of Piano di Montevergine is a Taurasi that demonstrates the profound complexity of aglianico grown in the unique soils of Campania. The vineyard site, at approximately 1200 feet of elevation, produces a massively structured red wine capable of aging two decades or more. The 2007 exhibits luscious aromas of blackberry, plum and tart cherry, with mouth-watering acidity, firm backbone, and hints of fennel and fresh herbs. This is a wine to be cellared and savored. 96 Robert Whitley Mar 12, 2013

Feudi di San Gregorio, Taurasi Riserva DOCG (Campania, Italy) Piano di Montevergine 2011 ($75, Terlato Wines International):  I hate to say that an almost $75 a bottle of wine is a bargain, but, if you have 75 bucks to spend on a wine, here it is.  Although Taurasi justifiably carries the DOCG accolade, it still lacks the prestige -- and price -- of the Tuscan or Piedmont DOCGs.  The Aglianico grape grown in Taurasi can, in the right hands, produce monumental wines, such as this one.  Tarry and mineral-y, with dark fruit profile, this full-bodied wine is still tightly wound, even at 6 years of age.  The tannins are apparent and firm, but not aggressive or angular.  This is a long and refined youthful wine that will reward another decade of cellaring.  If that’s not your plan, open and decant it several hours before serving and then watch it unfold in the glass. 95 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2017

Donnachiara, Taurasi Riserva DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2017 ($50):  Taurasi remains an underappreciated DOCG.  Those unfamiliar with the wines from the volcanic soil in this part of Campania need to discover them.  Donnachiara’s is a good place to start.  Made entirely from the Aglianico grape, it has a tarry power that belies its modest, 13.5 percent stated, alcohol.  Rich and dense, it’s not particularly fruity.  Rather it emphasizes minerals and earth and finishes with an alluring hint of bitterness, a trait I always find appealing because of how it balances the richness of meat.  This bold wine is not the least bit overdone or "in-your-face."  Indeed, its alluring texture and suaveness makes it all the more enticing.  It will certainly benefit from a few years in the cellar.  If you pull the cork now, save it for a cold rainy (or snowy) evening.  
94 Michael Apstein Apr 12, 2022

Luigi Tecce, Taurasi Riserva DOCG (Campania, Italy) “Poliphemo” Viti Vecchi 2015 ($92, Porto Vino):  The 2015 Poliphemo Taurasi Riserva is made from two tiny parcels of historic Aglianico vineyards in Paternopoli, planted in 1930.  Brought to Italy by the Greeks in the 6th century B.C., the Aglianico grape is experiencing a great revival in southern Italy.  Aromas of ripe plums, aromatic herbs, and dark-skinned berries emerge from the glass.  The full-bodied palate offers dried black cherry, blackberry, earthy thyme, and tobacco alongside a backbone of chewy tannins and vibrant acidity.  The wine's density signals that this is only at the beginning of a long, lovely evolution.   
91 Miranda Franco Oct 11, 2022

Mastroberardino, Vesuvio Rosso (Campania, Italy) "Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio" 2005 ($22, Wilson Daniels): Mastroberardino, more than anyone, has saved from extinction ancient indigenous grape varieties originally brought to Campania by the Greeks, such as Piedirosso, the grape for this wine.  Unlike Mastroberardino's Taurasi, which needs a few years to unfold, this red wine is more forward and approachable now.  Filled with flavors of bitter cherries and earthy, herbal nuances, the drying, but not astringent tannins, means it goes very well with food (think grilled meat or robust pasta) not as an aperitif. A long way from a New World 'fruit bomb' kind of wine, it delivers panoply of flavors at only 12.5% alcohol. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 13, 2007

Mastroberardino, Vesuvio Rosso DOC (Campania, Italy) "Lacryma Christi" 2004 ($22, Wilson Daniels): The white twin, or Lacryma Christi Bianco, is certainly more well known, but the rosso is probably the more interesting wine. It's made from the Piedirosso grape and delivers intriguing red and black fruit aromatics, hints of clove and black pepper and a slightly medicinal minerality that is typical of the region but off-putting to some. I happen to like it, and it yields very quickly to the earthy and fruity aromas that hog the show after a bit of aeration. Acidity is firm and bright, a sign this wine will have some kick for a few years to come. 88 Robert Whitley Dec 12, 2006

Rosé:

Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia (Campania, Italy) Rosato “Ros’Aura” 2009 ($14, Palm Bay International):  This is a serious and delicious rosé made entirely from the noble Aglianico grape variety, native to southern Italy.  It’s serious as in: dry, well-balanced, with crisp acidity, a bit of tannin and good concentration of fruit character.  It’s delicious as in: fruity, bright, fresh, refreshing.  Seriously drinkable and delicious. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Aug 3, 2010

Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia Rosato DOC (Campania, Italy) 2009 ($14, Palm Bay International):  This might be the perfect rosé, or at least for my taste.  It’s truly dry, and fairly full-bodied for a rosé, with crisp acidity (enhanced by a bit of CO2 prickle on your tongue) and flavors of strawberries and red cherries with a mineral note.  It’s entirely from southern Italy’s noble Aglianico grape variety, which makes powerful, ageworthy reds such as Taurasi and -- case in point -- delightful rosés.  This wine has enough character to complement spicy dishes such as pasta with an arrabiata sauce and yet is no way too heavy for a warm summer day.  It’s what I want to drink. 13 percent alcohol. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 6, 2010

San Salvatore, Paestum IGP (Campania, Italy) Aglianico "Vetere" Rosato 2021 ($26, Banville Wine Merchants):  As I write this, summer is just around the corner and, while I strongly believe that Rosé is a year-around wine, I also enjoy celebrating summer with a glass.  This Rosé of Aglianico has bright acidity, soft flavors with strawberry, a little orange blossom, under-ripe red cherry, and a touch of grapefruit.  The mouthfeel is creamy but not distracting and the fruit is strong enough to enjoy with lighter fares.  San Salvatore brings you this special wine with all the notes above and more.  Aglianico is known for its age-worthy reds with big tannins, acidity, and earthy notes.  This Rosato comes across as tame but the complexity of fruit and notes suggests there is something more behind each sip.  Indeed, each sip is an adventure with the wine constantly changing as it warms up and air is introduced.        
95 Vince Simmon Jun 6, 2023

Sparkling:

Grotta del Sole, Asprinio d’Aversa (Campania, Italy) Vigneti Alberata NV ($18, Belvino): Asprinio d’Aversa is a tiny DOC in Campania for sparkling wine made from the Asprinio grape, recently recognized as being identical to Greco, as in Greco di Tufo, one of Campania’s stellar varieties. Light and crisp, Grotta del Sole’s version has a delicate and alluring lemony edge.  Its penetrating flavor persists long after the wine has left your mouth.  It’s a versatile sparkler, working equally well as a great way to start an evening, with cold shellfish, or simply grilled fish.
88 Michael Apstein Nov 19, 2013

White:

Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania (Italy) Falanghina 2009 ($15, Palm Bay Imports):  The whites from this part of southern Italy are prized for their earthy minerality, rich viscosity and balancing acid. These characteristics would seem incompatible with the hot climate, but that is the miracle of Campania. Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino are well regarded and among the most important white wines in all of Italy. Falanghina doesn't enjoy such a lofty reputation, but its popularity is surging, no doubt because of the price differential. When it comes to quality and pleasure of drinking, however, there isn't such a huge different. The '09 from Feudi di San Gregorio (one of the most celebrated producers in the region) exhibits lush tropical fruits, a refreshing undercurrent of citrus and green apple, with a hint of honey and white flower on the finish. It is a remarkably complex wine for this price range, and one of the world's best values in white wine for less than $20. 93 Robert Whitley May 17, 2011

Terredora Di Paolo, Campania (Italy) Falanghina 2018 ($16, Vias imports):  A Mastroberardino family son split off from the family winery and started this venture with some of the family vineyards.  Vibrant acidity drives stony minerality and herbs over tart lemon and grapefruit flavors.  The acid mellows a little in the finish, helping the flavors to integrate and linger pleasantly and allowing a faint banana note to poke out.  A solid food wine with backbone.  
90 Rich Cook Aug 20, 2019

Terredora Dipaolo, Campania (Italy) Greco di Tufo 2007 ($24):

With earthy nuances, you feel the effect of the volcanic soil near Vesuvius where these vines grow. The absence of oak allows the steely and mineral-laden character to shine.  A firm citric edge keeps it lively and fresh throughout a meal.  Although lovely now, it will evolve and develop nicely over the next couple of years, so there's no rush.  And for that matter if you see Terredora Dipaolo's 2006 Greco di Tufo on the shelves, don't hesitate to pick it up either.

Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania (Italy) Fiano di Avellino 2004 ($21, Palm Bay Imports): Fiano is unusual for aromatic white varieties in that it ages quite well (10 to 15 years) and actually improves with age, along with its companion white variety in Campania, Greco di Tufo. Feudi di San Gregorio is one of southern Italy's leading producers. The 2004 Fiano di Avellino, with 12.5% alcohol, has floral, peach, and melon aromas and flavors, is dry, concentrated, firm, and quite full-bodied. It is rather quiet now; it should improve with a few more years of aging. 88 Ed McCarthy Jun 27, 2006

Feudi di San Gregorio, Campania (Italy) Falanghina 2006 ($15, Palm Bay Imports): Falanghina, a white grape indigenous to Campania, deserves more recognition.  With this excellent example, a delicate perfume of white flowers is followed by subtle green apple-like flavors and crispness.  A hint of minerality reflects Campania's volcanic soil. It is a marvelous choice for simple seafood. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Cantina del Taburno, Campania (Italy) Falanghina 2007 ($17, Michael Skurnik Wines): Many people assume that cooperatives are incapable of making fine wine.  Cantina del Taburno, a leading co-op in Campania, dispels that notion with this Falanghina, a grape native to that region.  Not long ago, Falanghina was felt to be unsuitable for fine wine, but now it is soaring in popularity both in Italy and in the United States.  Taburno's version, less floral than many, retains hints of melons and a complementary cutting acidity that keeps it refreshing throughout a meal.  It would also be a fine choice as an aperitif or with antipasto. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008

Terredora Dipaolo, Campania (Italy) Falanghina 2007 ($17, Vias Imports): Aromas of white flowers deceive you into thinking this is a sweet wine.  It's a lovely deception because the interplay of honeysuckle and a cutting citric finish keeps your attention with every sip.  This lively, pure wine without a trace of heaviness or oak is a great accompaniment for simply prepared seafood. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2008

Antica Masseria del Sigillo, Campania IGP (Italy) Fiano “Sigillo Apio” 2018 ($15, Enotec Imports):  Everyone is allowed her or his favorite, but with that open-minded pablum out of the way, Fiano is the greatest white variety of all southern Italy, and quite possibly all of Italy.  Carricante can be great, but it can’t obviously be great without Etna beneath its roots, and Pinot Bianco is French, after all, so let’s duke it out -- with me taking Fiano.  This bottling from 2018 was my first taste of this wine, and the two of us are off on a mad romance.  It is fully medium-bodied, leaning toward the plus side of that, but has superb acidity that is very well integrated, as well as a wicked mineral undertow that lends complexity while also making the wine seem as though it stems as much from rock as from sunny fruit.  But then, it is very juicy and seductive too, with tangerine and nectarine flavors that really assert themselves until the mineral tones kick in again.  The push-pull of fruit and minerals and acidity is really quite compelling, so much so that the wine is as interesting hours after opening as it was at first blush.  At $15, this is among the best bargains I’ve tasted all year, and I’m over 4,000 wines and counting.    
92 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2020

Tenuta Ponte, Campania IGP (Italy) Falanghina Beneventano 2022 ($26, August Imports):  Founded  in 1995, Tenuta Ponte farms and produces wine from their 25 hectare state in Campania Avellino Province, just inland from Naples.  Tenuta Ponte’s Falanghina is light and refreshing with dominant white peach notes and supporting mango, honeysuckle, and white blossoms.  This wine becomes more expressive with a few minutes of air, so don’t be afraid to pour yourself a glass and leave the bottle on the counter for half an hour before coming back for seconds.          
92 Vince Simmon Nov 21, 2023

San Salvatore, Campania IGP (Italy) Falanghina 2019 ($24, Banville Wine Merchants):  You will enjoy substantial depth and richness from this Falanghina, as well as uplifting minerality.  There is a lovely balance across every sip with an unusual combination of savory and tropical fruit flavors.  This versatile wine would pair beautifully with any seafood dish and stand up to tomato-laden pasta dishes.         
90 Miranda Franco Nov 16, 2021

Villa Matilde, Campania IGT (Italy) Falanghina “Rocca del Leone” 2019 ($15, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Villa Matilde’s 2019 Falanghina presents a wonderful paradox of floral notes and bracing acidity.  Hints of white flowers appear initially, and then, wham, a spine of saline-infused acidity hits the palate.  It’s a great choice as an aperitivo, but its real charm come out with time in the glass while eating a plate of linguine with clam sauce.  At $15, I suggest buying it by the case.     
91 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2021

Villa Matilde, Campania IGT (Campania, Italy) Falanghina Tenuta Rocca dei Leoni 2010 ($18, Empson USA):  Villa Matilde manages to turn out expressive, highly detailed renditions of Campania’s leading grape varieties with impressive consistency, and this is a delicious case in point.  Aromas and flavors of ripe nectarines and citrus fruit lead the way, with an appealing floral accent and a hint of minerality in the finish. 91 Michael Franz Sep 20, 2011

Villa Matilde, Campania IGT (Campania, Italy) Greco di Tufo 2010 ($18, Empson USA):  Another winning wine from Villa Matilde, this Greco shows real weight and breadth on the palate that will let it work well with bigger dishes than can be handled by most un-oaked wines like this one.  Despite its impressive weight and flavor impact, it remains quite vivid and fresh, with stone fruit notes edged with citrus acidity and accented with nutty, mineral nuances. 91 Michael Franz Sep 20, 2011

Villa Matilde, Campania IGT (Campania, Italy) Falanghina Tenuta Rocca Dei Leoni 2007 ($20, Empson): This is a very impressive winemaking effort, and an exemplary rendering of Falanghina, a potentially excellent variety from southern Italy that was recovered from obscurity largely due to the efforts of this producer.  The finished product is so well integrated in its nuances that I'm frankly unsure whether or not it was made with oak barrels.  Some depth of color, a slightly smoky edge, and a faint whiff of vanilla would all suggest a positive answer, but Falanghina can sometimes display these characteristics even when vinted without oak.  And when it is unclear whether a wine's character derives from the vine or the vintner, you are talking about a well-made wine. 90 Michael Franz Jan 27, 2009

Luigi Maffini, Cilento DOC (Campania, Italy) Fiano “Kràtos” 2021 ($21, Free Run Wine Merchant):  The region of Cilento is located just south of Italy’s infamous Amalfi Coast.  With a gorgeous coastline and Mediterranean weather, the people are kind and easy going.  This wine is a wonderful representation of the region.  The body is round with no sharp acidity or overly creamy notes and the flavors are a simple balance of floral and citrus.  Fiano is good to pair with light foods like fresh olive oil bread, seafood, or roast chicken.  To me, this Fiano from Campania is a reminder of warm, sunny days.        
91 Vince Simmon Dec 27, 2022

Terredora Di Paolo, Coda di Volpe (Campania, Italy) 2011 ($17, Vias Imports): This producer has a seemingly magic touch with every white grape, and this wine demonstrates that this holds true for Coda di Volpe as well. Medium-bodied, it shows lots of expressive fruit aromas and flavors recalling papaya, mandarin orange and pear, but the real excitement is the wine’s intense minerality, which announces itself at the first whiff and rides past the fruit and acidity to stand as the last lingering note in an extremely long finish.
92 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2013

San Salvatore, Falanghina Campania IGP (Italy) 2017 ($18, Banville Wine Merchants):  The Falanghina grape is most known in southern Italy’s Campania region. It is a white that provides a delicious tasting experience.  The 2017 vintage from San Salvatore is a great success and shows the attractive style of the grape. The Falanghina grapes are grown in the volcanic soils that surround Mt. Vesuvius and yield wines of considerable depth.  The 2017 San Salvatore Falanghina shows scents of wildflowers, lemon zest, peach, honey, and subtle herbs.  On the palate, pure lemon and peach fruit flavors are backed by floral, honey, herbal and creamy hints.  The layers of full and exotic flavors are underscored by a bracing, crisp acidity.  It’s a delicious white with a rich texture that will be a fine companion for poultry and richer seafood dishes.
92 Wayne Belding Dec 4, 2018

Terre Stregate, Falanghina del Sannio (Campania, Italy) “Svelato" 2017 ($18, Artisanal Cellars):  The Falanghina grape is most known in southern Italy’s Campania region. It is a white that combines luscious fruit aromas and flavors with a rich texture.  The 2017 vintage from Terre Stregate in Sannio is a great success and shows the attractive style of the grape. Sannio is a relatively new DOC in the hills north of Naples.  The Falanghina grapes are grown here in the volcanic soils that surround Mt. Vesuvius and yield wines of considerable depth.  The 2017 Terre Stregate “Svelato” Falanghina shows scents of wildflowers, citrus peel, peach, honey, and subtle herbs.  On the palate, pure lemon and peach fruit flavors are backed by floral, honey, herbal and creamy hints.  The multilayered, full and exotic flavors are underscored by a bracing, crisp acidity.  It’s a delicious white with a rich texture that will be a fine companion for richer seafood and fowl recipes.   
92 Wayne Belding Nov 19, 2019

Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio (Campania, Italy) 2017 ($14, Terlato Wines International):  Floral and fruity with mouth-cleansing zestiness, this Falanghina is ideal for summer sipping -- and drinking.   Enhanced by a hint of an almost white pepper-like spice, it is a tremendous value to cut through August’s humidity and accompany light pasta dishes or simply grilled fish. 
91 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2018

La Guardiense, Falanghina del Sannio (Campania, Italy) "Janare Senete" 2018 ($11, Monsieur Touton Selection):  The Falanghina grape is most known in southern Italy’s Campania region. It is a white that provides a delicious tasting experience.  La Guardiense is a cooperative winery in Campania.  With around one thousand grower members, they are able to select the best grapes from their growers for the Janare Senete bottling.  The 2018 vintage is a great success and shows the attractive style of the grape with surprising depth and complexity for its affordable price.  The Falanghina grapes are grown in the volcanic soils that surround Mt. Vesuvius and yield zesty and flavorful wines.  The 2018 La Guardiense Janare Senete Falanghina shows scents of peach, wildflowers, lemon zest, honey, and subtle herbs.  On the palate, the peach and almost tropical fruit flavors are backed by floral, honey, herbal and creamy hints.  The layers of full and exotic flavors are underscored by a bracing, crisp acidity.  It’s a delicious white that will drink well for another two years.   
91 Wayne Belding Apr 14, 2020

Cantina del Taburno, Falanghina del Sannio (Campania, Italy) 2017 ($15):  A pretty southern Italian white, with a floral bouquet, stone fruit flavors, and faint echoes of dried herbs in its finish.  Though showing no wood, the wine has a full enough body to stand up to rich dishes -- creamy seafood preparations, for example, or a month from now, the Thanksgiving bird. 
90 Paul Lukacs Oct 16, 2018

Mastroberardino, Falanghina del Sannio (Campania, Italy) 2012 ($16, Winebow): A very reliable producer of this variety brings us a wine that shows delicate lemon, lime, white flowers, melon and mild spice on the nose.  It's very crisp and dry on the palate, with scouring lemon zest and racy acidity on the finish.  A great fish accompaniment at great price.
89 Rich Cook Sep 8, 2015

Villa Matilde, Falanghina del Sannio (Campania, Italy) “Rocca di Leoni” 2006 ($15, Empson): Dry and delicate, with minerally, floral aromas and flavors and substantial acidity.  Fresh and clean, not as heavy-handed as some Falanghinas.  Excellent with pasta and seafood. 89 Ed McCarthy May 29, 2007

Cantina del Taburno, Falanghina del Sannio DOC (Campania, Italy) 2019 ($17, Wines Unlimited):  Over the last few decades, Falanghina, an ancient grape of Campania, has soared back into popularity after a period of relative obscurity.  Thank goodness, as there is something very appealing about this grape variety (actually, there are at least two sub-varieties of Falanghina).  This 100 percent Falanghina offers lively acidity, with tart pear, pineapple, and floral flavors that linger.  It is resonant and refreshing with great minerality. The finish has a staying power that belies the wine's pale color.  This is an excellent value on any restaurant wine list.           
91 Miranda Franco Nov 9, 2021

Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio DOC (Campania, Italy) 2015 ($15, Palm Bay International):  Falanghina, the grape was named after falengae, the Latin word for the stakes the Romans used to support the vine, is my “go to” wine in Italian restaurants with modest wine lists because it almost always represents good value. This one certainly does.  Reflecting the rather warm vintage, Feudi di San Gregorio’s 2015 is ripe with peachy notes and enlivening acidity that keeps it fresh.  It’s a great choice for Italian seafood dishes, from grilled octopus to linguine and clam sauce. 
88 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2017

Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina di Sannio (Campania, Italy) 2006 ($15, Palm Bay): Feudi is the largest producer of both Greco di Tufo and Falanghina.  Its 2006 Falanghina from Sannio is dry, but with ripe, fruity, floral aromas and flavors.  It is earthy, with very good depth.  A lovely $15 white wine. 90 Ed McCarthy May 29, 2007

Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina Sannio (Campania, Italy) 2008 ($18, Palm Bay International):  Here’s another easy-to-recommend white wine, from a less well-known grape--Falanghina, for this summer’s seafood.  Sannio is a small hilly district within Campania whose Falanghina is so highly regarded that the area was awarded DOC status.  Feudi di San Gregorio, one of the region’s best producers, uses only stainless steel tanks for fermentation--no oak--to capture the delicate fruitiness of this wine.  Hints of white flowers in the bouquet are followed by lively notes of citrus and green apple.  Its clean and fresh finish invites another sip. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 3, 2010

Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina Sannio (Campania, Italy) 2007 ($18, Palm Bay Imports): Crisp and fresh, with a floral bouquet, this Falanghina exemplifies the high quality white wines now coming from Campania--a region famous for whites in antiquity but ever since better known for sturdy reds.  Those ancient wines, however, were 'seasoned' with pitch and resin, and invariably tasted oxidized, a flavor profile valued then but certainly disparaged by most people today.  Happily, there is nothing old-fashioned about the taste of this wine.  Its clean, bright character marks it as deliciously modern. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 10, 2009

Fiudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina Sannio (Campania, Italy) 2006 ($18, Palm Bay): Notably fruity but not assertively so, this provides lots of mineral notes and a faintly earthy streak that lend interest from the first sniff to the final sensations from the finish,  Well structured with crisp, refreshing acidity, this should work well with most delicate preparations of seafood. 88 Michael Franz Jun 26, 2007

Clelia Romano, Fiano d’Avellino (Campania, Italy) “Colli di Lapio” 2007 ($25): The unique mountainous terrain of Avellino, the best area for Fiano, an indigenous grape brought to Italy by the Greeks, keeps the vineyards cool in this otherwise warm part of Italy and explains why the wine has achieved DOCG status.  The Clelia Romano estate, established in 1994, is one example of new, talented producers in the area and helps explain the surge in popularity of wines from the region.  Their Colli di Lapio (literally, hills of Fiano), bright and bursting with flavor, has incredible length and persistence. The waxy characteristic of Fiano adds a lovely texture and is right on target. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008

Feudi di San Gregorio, Fiano d’Avellino DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2016 ($18, Terlato Wines International):  Floral and clean, like fresh fruit blossoms, Feudi di San Gregorio’s 2016 Fiano conveys a lacey delicacy.  Combine that with its lip-smacking acidity and you have a refreshing choice for simply sautéed -- or if your grill is still functioning -- grilled fish.  Not an opulent wine, it’s easy going and would be equally at home as a stand-alone aperitif. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2017

Mastroberardino, Fiano di Avelino DOCG (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2015 ($24, The Winebow Group):  While Fiano is grown practically everywhere in southern Italy, it’s most famous in the Campania appellation of Fiano di Avellino DOCG.  This wine is like lemon sunshine radiating from the glass.  Vibrant and mineral-driven, it offers a slightly chalky palate with a medium body and a touch of nuttiness on the finish.
93 Jessica Dupuy Aug 21, 2018

Donnachiarra, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) 2010 ($18, Michelangelo Imports):  This gorgeous wine shows why Fiano di Avellino has DOCG ranking.  It combines a honey-like, but not sweet, richness with alluring spices.  Vibrant acidity means it stays fresh and lively and allows the flavors to explode in the finish.  Both lacey and concentrated, its finish seems endless. It’s simply marvelous—and worth twice the price. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2011

Mastroberadino, Fiano di Avellino (Italy) "Radici" 2004 ($25, Wilson Daniels): This is a serious white wine made from perhaps the most important white grape grown in southern Italy. The Fiano grape thrives in the volcanic soils near Naples, which produce a wine that is extraordinarily complex, with exceptional minerality. Predominant aromas of pear, honey and roasted nuts coupled with firm acidity make this a wine that matches well with shellfish, particularly lobster. 93 Robert Whitley Jul 11, 2006

Terredora Di Paolo, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) 2011 ($25, Vias Imports): This producer makes stunning white wines and reds that are every bit as fine, and at this point I’m losing confidence that I’m ever going to figure out which I prefer. This wine is made entirely from the ancient Fiano grape from the Terre di Dora estate vineyard, and it is remarkably complex and nuanced while still seeming perfectly integrated and harmonious. Medium-bodied, it shows lovely fruit that recalls both ripe, tropical notes and edgy citrus ones, with impressive substance but also excellent cut and definition. Wonderfully expressive mineral notes mark the wine’s aromas, mid-palate, and especially its finish. Great on its own and great at the table, this is simply terrific.
93 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2013

Terredora Di Paolo, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) “Terre di Dora” 2009 ($30, Vias Imports):  I love white wines from the fascinating varieties grown in Campania, and I particularly love Fiano, so it is saying something to note that this is among the handful of best examples that I’ve ever tasted.  Medium-bodied and leaning toward full, it shows outstanding breadth and depth of flavor, with stone fruit and tropical notes edged with lively citrus accents.  There’s also an intense mineral character to the wine that heightens its complexity and enlivens its finish.  This is a remarkable single-vineyard wine that has it all:  Expressive aromas, authoritative flavors, intricate detail and completely convincing finish.  If my score is off, it is off on the low side. 93 Michael Franz Nov 8, 2011

Feudi di San Gregorio, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) 2004 ($21, Palm Bay Imports): If you can find a more complex and interesting white at this price, please give me a call! This is fascinating in all respects, including aroma, flavor, texture and finish. Fruity but intensely smoky aromatics get this wine off to a great start, and fine fruit backed by solid mineral notes prove very satisfying. The finish is very fresh and long, thanks to a combination of intense fruit and zesty acidity. Distinctive but not at all weird, this is a marvelous, highly-versatile wine and a great value. Feudi's highest-end Fiano, "Pietracalda," shows riper fruit and some notable wood influence, but isn't as interesting and rings up at $30, so this Fiano is the wine to buy. 92 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Mastroberardino, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) “Radichi” 2006 ($22, Wilson Daniels): Mastroberardino makes a standard Fiano, but its Radichi comes from a selection of grapes in its best vineyards.  It is dry, with wonderful aromas of white flowers, mint, and eucalyptus, great concentration of flavors and substantial acidity.  Very sleek, with good aging potential. 92 Ed McCarthy May 29, 2007

Mastroberardino, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) "Radici" 2006 ($22, Wilson Daniels): Radici is the proprietary name Mastroberardino uses for his top wines, his red from Taurasi and this white made from the Fiano grape.  He works magic with the Fiano grape, especially when it comes from Avellino, the most renowned area for it.  The grapes for this Fiano come from Mastroberardino's Santo Stefano del Sole vineyard, which he planted in the mid-1990s.  Lacey with a distinct and haunting minerality, it's full-flavored without being heavy.  Bright acidity keeps it lively and makes you want to go back for more. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Terredora, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) Terre di Dora 2006 ($20, Vias Imports):

Terre di Dora is one of Terredora's own vineyards.  Dry and crisp, with fresh fruity aromas suggestive of pineapple.  It has great length on the palate, with a rich finish.  Excellent Fiano.

Mastroberardino, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2010 ($25, Winebow): For those unfamiliar with Campania, Mastroberardino is one of, if not its best, producer.  Radici is the moniker they use for their best wines, both white and red.  Fiano di Avellino is Campania’s other white DOCG wine.  Mastroberardino’s 2010 conveys alluring floral notes, delicate pineapple-like nuances and an attractive firmness, almost bordering on bitterness, in the finish.  This concentrated solid wine is another steal at the price. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011

Monte Faliesi, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) Fiano 2011 ($20, Opici Wines): Campania’s other great white wine is Fiano di Avellino.  Monte Faliesi’s 2011 has a bracing backbone, just what it needs to offset its floral and rich character.  As an unexpected dividend, a nuanced nuttiness appears in the finish.  Their Fiano and Greco are the antithesis of the prototypical “fruit bomb.”
91 Michael Apstein Sep 17, 2013

Villa Matilde, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) Tenuta di Altavilla 2005 ($26, Empson USA): Villa Matilde is a pioneering winery in Campania, its founder having isolated and propagated certain clones of some of the region's important native grape varieties.  But its wines are fairly new to the U.S.  This Fiano is a dry, full-bodied white with silky texture cut through by high acid depth, and medium-intense flavors of peach, apple and ripe lemon.  Its nose suggests even more aromatic complexity, hinting of floral notes and minerality, besides the fruity character found on the palate.  The wine has a great balance between its aromas/ flavors and its structure, a solid but flavorful wine.  If it has received oak treatment, it does not show in the wine's taste.  The only shortcoming is the wine's length, which falls short across the palate due to the high alcohol. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 23, 2007

Villa Matilde/Tenuta di Altavilla, Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy) 2005 ($26, Empson): Villa Matilde is a pioneering winery in Campania, its founder having isolated and propagated certain clones of some of the region's important native grape varieties.  But its wines are fairly new to the U.S.  This Fiano is a dry, full-bodied white with silky texture cut through by high acid depth, and medium-intense flavors of peach, apple, and ripe lemon.  Its nose suggests even more aromatic complexity, hinting of floral notes and minerality, besides the fruity character found on the palate.  The wine has a great balance between its aromas/flavors and its structure, a solid but flavorful wine.  If it has received oak treatment, it does not show in the wine's taste.  The only shortcoming is the wine's length, which falls short across the palate due to the high alcohol. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 30, 2007

Guido Marsella, Fiano Di Avellino DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2019 ($25, USA Wine Imports):   When Guido Marsella planted the vineyard and founded his winery in 1995 he concentrated solely on Fiano grapes.  He farms the grapes organically and the wines are fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel containers.  The modest estate sits in the Partenio Regional Park at an altitude of 600 meters (about 1968 feet).  This white wine is both vibrant and elegant, with juicy fruit and a generous, expressive finish.  Aromas suggesting white peaches, fresh citrus, and tropical fruits are part of the charm.  The palate is broad, with bright acidity and layers of wet stone and tropical fruits all leading to a long finish.        
94 Marguerite Thomas May 10, 2022

Quintodecimo, Fiano di Avellino DOCG (Campania, Italy) “Exultet” 2020 ($49, Root Stock LLC):  According to Ian D’Agata, in Native Wine Grapes of Italy, “Fiano is perhaps Italy’s greatest native white grape.”  He also considers Luigi Moio, producer of this wine, “one of Italy’s finest winemakers and perhaps the single greatest expert on the cultivars of Campania.”  Since his father was a winemaker, Moio grew up with wine.  He earned a Master’s Degree in Agricultural Science  and a Ph.D. in Burgundy, where he studied scientific aspects of wine aromas.  The 2020 single vineyard Exultet is showing a pale golden color, lightly herbal, green apple fruit lifted by energetic acidity and a finely textured mouthfeel.  It is a very enjoyable wine on its own and is compatible with grilled seafood or chicken.        
94 Rebecca Murphy Mar 14, 2023

Nativ, Fiano di Avellino DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014 ($28, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Fiano is a bit more floral than their Greco di Tufo.  Instead of transmitting a sense of volcanic ash, it conveys a delicate white flowery sensation.  It’s also a touch weightier and more tropical than their Greco.  Invigorating acidity keeps it lively throughout the meal.  It’s an excellent example of Fiano di Avellino.  For those who want to learn about these great whites from Campania, this is the perfect place to start because they reflect the respective DOCGs clearly.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 6, 2016

Marisa Cuomo, Furore Bianco (Costa d’Amalfi, Italy) 2005 ($22, Panebianco): Also known as Gran Furore, Marisa Cuomo's winery, run by Marisa and husband Andrea Ferraioli, is the best on the Amalfi Coast.  It's located In the town of Furore, but they also source their grapes from Ravello; in both cases grapes are grown on very steep hillsides.  The 2005 Furore Bianco, made from Biancolella and Falanghina and unoaked, is broad and minerally, with flavors suggesting white peaches.  A sheer delight. 90 Ed McCarthy May 29, 2007

Donnachiarra, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) 2010 ($18, Michelangelo Imports):  It’s fashionable to talk about the fruit in a wine. And that’s understandable since wine is made from grapes.  But I recommend this wine, not for its fruitiness, but for its edgy firm mineral-like character.  You can almost taste the lava rich soil where the grapes grew.  Not austere, its flavors and charm persist long after each sip.  Those looking for opulence will be disappointed.  Those who want something to enjoy throughout a meal will find it a great foil for grilled swordfish. 92 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2011

Mastroberardino, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) “Nova Serra” 2010 ($20, Winebow):  Despite family squabbling and the loss of many vineyards several years ago, Mastroberardino continues to make exceptional wines.  This Greco di Tufo, one of Campania’s DOCG wines, comes from a single vineyard at an elevation of about 1,700 feet in the hills of Campania.  Although the vineyard is filled with chalky soil, you can still feel the influence of Vesuvius in the firm underpinning of the wine.  A subtle honeyed richness lends an intriguing counterpoint to its distinct minerality.  Fortunately for consumers, wines from Campania are still terribly undervalued.  You’d be hard pressed to find this kind of quality for this price anywhere else in the world. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011

Terredora Dipaolo, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) 2008 ($25, Vias Imports): The current releases from this producer are extremely impressive and utterly convincing, and though they don’t come cheap, they are nevertheless very tough to beat at their price levels.  In other words, $25 is a lot for an unoaked white wine, but you’ll have a bloody hard time finding anything that can touch this for the same price.  Certainly one of the best dry Italian whites that I’ve tasted all year, it shows vivid fruit showing tangerine, guava and white peach notes.  There’s an intense citrus interwoven through the fruit that plays a perfect counterpoint, and consequently the wine seems almost crackly in its freshness even as it seems generously ripe and juicy.  Extremely satisfying but also enduringly refreshing, this is something special. 92 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2009

Colli di Lapio, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) Greco “Alèxandros” 2013 ($23, Marc de Grazia Selection): Greco di Tufo at its best is a delicious and refreshing white.  The Colli di Lapio Greco reflects the best characteristics of this ancient variety.  Pure lemon, apple, peach and tropical fruit aromas are enhanced by scents of white flowers and delicate green herbs.  The flavors are juicy, pure and bright with the citrusy tones of the grape bolstered by the intriguing floral and herbal elements.  It will be a wonderful wine to enjoy with fresh seafood.
91 Wayne Belding Apr 21, 2015

Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) 2008 ($20, Palm Bay International):  Feudi di San Gregorio, one of Campania’s--and Italy’s--leading wineries, continues their streak of success with this Greco di Tufo.  Attractively earthy and mineraly, you can almost taste the volcanic soil where the grapes grow.  It has an appealing firmness, uplifting acidity and fabulous length that makes it ideal for fish from the grill this summer. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 20, 2010

Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) 2006 ($19, Palm Bay): Firm, almost steely aromas with a touch of anise and honey.  Fascinating minerally flavors, resembling a rich, ripe Chablis, but more expressive.  The 2005 is the current vintage available, but will be replaced soon by the 2006. 91 Ed McCarthy May 29, 2007

Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) 2007 ($23, Palm Bay Imports): This lovely wine is an object lesson in the charms of subtlety.  The aromas are a bit shy, with just a little whiff of herbs, straw, nuts and fruit.  The flavors are more expressive, with notes of fresh figs and, again, roasted nuts.  But the real show begins in earnest only when the wine has rolled off one's tongue, as the finish adds a terrifically appealing mineral note and a beam of enlivening acidity to all of the other flavor components, and all of these components remain in symmetrical relation to one another as the aftertaste tails off--very slowly.  Match this with something subtle that will let it show its subtle stuff, such as sautéed fin fish with a simple crumbling of dried herbs and squeeze of lemon. 91 Michael Franz Jan 27, 2009

Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) "Cutizzi" 2004 ($30, Palm Bay Imports): This lovely wine features lots of interesting little nuances on a light frame, making it a great choice for warm weather sipping or pairing with very light foods like raw oysters or sautéed trout. Aroma and flavor signals are subtle but abundant, including notes of crisp apples, stone fruits, roasted nuts, wet straw, and minerals, all held together with bright acidity. Fresh but fulfilling, this is a great light drink. 90 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Fiudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) 2005 ($23, Palm Bay): Subtle is the word for this wine, as the fruit notes are delicate and restrained to the point of near austerity.  Nevertheless, it is very interesting and highly versatile, as mineral notes provide most of the aroma and flavor.  This rare profile shows up in a few fine bottlings from Chablis and in fine bottlings of Assyrtiko from Santorini, and is very much worth your attention. 90 Michael Franz Jun 26, 2007

Mastroberardino, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) “Novaserra” 2005 ($25, Wilson Daniels):

The name of the grape--Greco--indicates that the Greeks brought it with them to Italy.  It grows best in the volcanic soil near Mt. Vesuvius, especially around the village of Tufo.  This focused wine captures you with its class and length, not its weight.  The freshness characteristic of Mastroberardino's wines and a subtle pleasing earthiness that must come from the soil makes it a wonderful choice for grilled fish.

Monte Faliesi, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) 2011 ($20, Opici Wines): The price of this delicious wine reflects the reality that Greco di Tufo is one of Italy’s underappreciated grapes.  On the volcanic soil of Campania, it produces a distinguished wine, like this one.  Fresh and steely, Monte Faliesi’s has a subtle and attractive vaguely bitter finish.  You can almost taste the volcanic ash.  It’s a great choice for grilled swordfish or a more complicated fish stew.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 17, 2013

Villa Matilde, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) 2005 ($26, Empson USA): One of Italy's finest white grape varieties, Greco is the same grape that was originally grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvious and called Lacryma Christi. When cultivated in the Avellino province of southern Italy it takes the name Greco di Tufo. Villa Matilde's '05 is a beautifully balanced wine, showing exceptional minerality and racy acidity combined with aromas of citrus and spice. On the palate it is rich and viscous, long in the mouth and delivers the essence of swet fruit despite finishing quite dry. 90 Robert Whitley Sep 5, 2006

Villa Matilde, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) Tenuta di Altavilla 2005 ($26, Empson USA): A fascinating contrast to this winery's Fiano di Avellino, highlighting the difference between the Fiano grape and the Greco grape.  This is what I would call an 'earthy white,' as opposed to the Fiano, which falls into the 'aromatic' style.  This Greco di Tufo is dry and full-bodied, with a medium amount of succulent acidity and a rich, substantial texture.  Both on the nose and palate, its relatively subdued aromatics are mainly minerally and earthy, the only suggestion of fruitiness being a lemony character.  It has very good length across the palate.  Reach for this wine with less flavorful foods. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 23, 2007

Villa Matilde/ Tenuta di Altavilla, Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy) 2005 ($26, Empson): A fascinating contrast to this winery's Fiano di Avellino, highlighting the difference between the Fiano grape and the Greco grape.  This is what I would call an 'earthy white,' as opposed to the Fiano, which falls into the 'aromatic' style.  This Greco di Tufo is dry and full-bodied, with a medium amount of succulent acidity and a rich, substantial texture.  Both on the nose and palate, its relatively subdued aromatics are mainly minerally and earthy, the only suggestion of fruitiness being a lemony character.  It has very good length across the palate.  Reach for this wine with less flavorful foods. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 30, 2007

Cantina Sanpaolo, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2017 ($20, Enotec Imports, Inc):  Greco di Tufo, one of Italy’s premier white grapes, is rarely found outside its home in Campania.  Sanpaolo’s is an excellent example, full-bodied, yet crisp.  It is mineral-infused, reflecting the lava-like residue of Vesuvius.  Its acidity imbues it with energy and magnifies its charms.  This substantial white has a real presence on the table and would be a good choice for grilled swordfish or fettuccine with a clam sauce.         
92 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2021

Nativ, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2018 ($24, Montcalm Wine Importers):  The deep yellow-gold color is itself a come-on, and the palate is likewise enticing.  Equally compelling are the fruity flavors balanced by salty minerality and finishing with racy acidity.  Worth noting, perhaps, is that the word “Tufo” comes from the name of the region’s volcanic soil, which may be what produces that appetizing salinity.   
92 Marguerite Thomas Aug 20, 2019

Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) “Grancare” 2016 ($36, Romano Brands):  Greco di Tufo is one of Italy’s great white wines.  This one has slightly nutty nuances and the hint of lava-like mineral notes you’d expect from its location near Mount Vesuvius.  Bright and enlivening acidity tingles the palate.  It screams for linguine and clam sauce.  Just don’t overchill it or you lose the wine’s complexities and charms.  
92 Michael Apstein Nov 19, 2019

Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2015 ($18, Terlato Wines International):  Feudi di San Gregorio’s Greco di Tufo is less floral and more mineral-tinged than their Fiano d’Avellino (also reviewed this week), but has a similar refreshing edginess to it.  A more “serious” wine, it has an engaging firmness and more of a presence on the table.  It cuts a wider swath without being opulent.  Indeed, its charm rests in its austerity and reserve.  Whereas the Fiano makes a fine aperitif, this Greco cries for food because of its more rigid spine.  This wine and Feudi di San Gregorio’s Fiano reminds us how Campania remains an underappreciated treasure trove region for whites. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2017

Nativ, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014 ($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Greco di Tufo, one of Campania’s signature white wines, conveys a stony, almost volcanic essence, which is not surprising since this grape grows well on Vesuvius’s soil.  A tinge of bitterness in the finish buttressed by bracing acidity catapults this wine into the “easy-to-recommend” category because it’s a serious wine that delivers more than the price suggests.  It’s perfectly balanced and piercing in an invigorating way, which makes it perfect for flavorful seafood.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 6, 2016

Petilia, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2019 ($22, Dark Star Imports):  Greco di Tufo is one of Italy’s great white wines and justifiability deserves its DOCG designation.  The volcanic Campanian soil and the region’s climate allow the grape to shine.  The emphasis of Petilia’s 2019 is on a lava-like minerality rather than fruitiness.  It has good weight and a saline-like acidity that amplifies its charms. It grows in the glass, so it’s a wine to savor with a meal.  And any kind of seafood should be a part of that meal when drinking it.    
91 Michael Apstein May 3, 2022

Tenuta Ponte, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2022 ($35, Augustan Wine Imports):  Tenuta Ponte’s Greco di Tufo is a fresh, clean, and acid-driven white wine.  Located in Campania, just inland from Italy’s Amalfi Coast, Greco di Tufo earned their appellation status in 2003 and is known for the region’s volcanic soils.  Vines are cultivated at an altitude of almost 500-meters providing a greater diurnal shift and preserving the acidity of the grapes as they ripen.  This white wine is ideal for most seafood or chicken dishes.        
91 Vince Simmon Sep 12, 2023

Terredora di Paolo, Greco di Turo (Campania, Italy) "Loggia Della Serra" 2017 ($15, Vias Imports Ltd):  From one of the largest estates in southern Italy (with almost 500 acres of vineyards) comes this outstanding white wine.  Uniquely elegant and balanced, it has pear and apple aromas and flavors, with a bonus of both honey and saline minerality.  Nicely focused acidity and a persistent finish are also among the many attributes of this fine wine. 
93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 6, 2018

Terredora di Paolo, Greco di Turo (Campania, Italy) “Loggia Della Serra” 2016 ($19, Vias Imports Ltd):  Bright and fresh, with vivacious acidity for balance and an invigorating cornucopia of summer and autumnal fruit flavors, this a beautiful example of a modern wine made with an ancient grape variety.  It tastes new based on its clean character, but echoes something venerable in its seamless integration of disparate elements.  Suffice it to say, though, that no wine made in antiquity tasted anything like it. 
90 Paul Lukacs Oct 30, 2018

Terredora di Paolo, Irpinia (Campania, Italy) Falanghina “Corte di Giso” 2020 ($16, Vias Imports):  The Falanghina grape is most known in southern Italy’s Campania region. It is a white that provides a delicious tasting experience.  Terredora di Paolo was established in 1978 with a focus on preserving the distinctive character of Irpinian wines.  The 2020 vintage is a great success and shows the attractive style of the grape with surprising depth and complexity for its affordable price.  The Falanghina grapes are grown in calcareous clay soils that surround the winery and yield zesty and flavorful wines.  The 2020 Corte di Giso Falanghina shows scents of peach, pineapple, wildflowers, lemon zest, honey, and subtle herbs.  On the palate, the peach and almost tropical fruit flavors are backed by floral, honey, herbal and creamy hints.  The layers of full and exotic flavors are underscored by a bracing, crisp acidity.  It's a delicious white that will drink well for another two years.         
92 Wayne Belding Sep 6, 2022

Terredora Dipaolo, Irpinia (Campania, Italy) Falanghina 2008 ($18, Vias Imports): I’ve never tasted anything from this producer before, but was floored in a single week by two wines, this dynamite Falanghina and an amazing Taurasi.  This white shows terrific fruit recalling white peaches and mandarin oranges, along with subtle floral and mineral notes.  There’s lots of acidity interlaced with the fruit, and the integration of the two is so effective that the wine seems almost to crackle with freshness.  If you want to find a more interesting and complete white for $18, all I can do is wish you luck. 91 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2009

Mastroberadino, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio (Campania, Italy) 2004 ($19, Wilson Daniels): The white wines of southern Italy are remarkable in the sense that they develop richness and depth from the warmth of the climate yet maintain acidity and minerality that keep them fresh and exciting, as well as an excellent match with the savory cuisine found in the area around Naples. The '04 Lacryma Christi (translated to 'the tears of Christ') offers a voluptuous mouthfeel, ripe aromas of tropical fruit and peach, and an earthy, slightly medicinal minerality that is typical of the region. 90 Robert Whitley May 2, 2006

Mastroberardino, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio (Campania, Italy) Bianco 2005 ($18, Wilson Daniels): One of the most important producers of Southern Italy, the Mastroberardino family has been making wine since the early 18th century.  Mastroberardino is a noted crusader in the effort to save historic, indigenous grapes such as Aglianico and Greco di Tufo from extinction.  Lacryma Christi ('Tears of Christ') is made from Coda do Volpe grapes grown in the rich, volcanic soil of Mount Vesuvius.  While the nose (at least in this vintage) seems somewhat muted, the wine is pleasant and easy to drink--but the real reason to single it out is for its extraordinarily long, long, long finish. 87 Marguerite Thomas Jan 16, 2007

Mastroberardino, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco (Campania, Italy) 2006 ($16, Wilson Daniels): Perhaps the most popularly known wine of the region, if not the best.  In the hands of a good producer, such as Mastroberardino, it is very solid and substantial: dry and lean, with lots of minerality and lingering on the palate. 89 Ed McCarthy May 29, 2007

Feudi di San Gregorio, Sannio-Falanghina (Campania, Italy) Falanghina "Serrocielo" 2004 ($30, Palm Bay Imports): I'd guess that there won't be much of a backup at the local wine shop to get to a $30 Falanghina from Campania, which is great, since I'll be able to stride straight to the front of the line. This is a marvelous wine, with wonderful aromas of ripe tropical fruits, grilled nuts, smoke and wet straw. Medium-bodied and substantial but still quite crisp and refreshing, it finishes with great minerality, persistence and authority, with all flavors tailing off symmetrically. Fantastic! 93 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Feudi di San Gregorio, Sannio-Falanghina (Campania, Italy) Falanghina 2004 ($12, Palm Bay Imports): Fresh and zesty but also complex and very interesting for a wine at this price, this shows nice aromas of smoke, straw and freshly cut green apples. The palate is light-bodied but flavorful, with lots of subtle, faintly earthy notes and strong mineral character enhancing the basic core of tart apple fruit. This refreshes like a really good Pinot Grigio, but brings a lot more complexity to the party. 89 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

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Delle Venezie:

Sparkling:

Martini & Rossi, Prosecco DOC (Italy) NV ($13):   Although made in an extra-dry style (which is actually sweeter than brut) this lovely Prosecco from Martini & Rossi is well balanced and inviting, showing more robust depth than is typical for Prosecco (due methinks to the combination of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the blend along with the traditional Glera) bright notes of pear and green apple. The wine finishes fresh and clean and the price makes it a bit of a steal. 88 Robert Whitley Nov 7, 2017

White:

Cantine Buglioni, Bianco Delle Venezie IGT (Italy) Garganega “Il Disperato” 2012 ($22, Wilson Daniels): This 100% Garganega’s bright peach and nectarine aromas blow right out of the glass, with hints of mango and passion fruit.  The palate is dry with crisp acidity and a rich feel with a long nectarine focused finish.  A fine solo sipper or an accompaniment for fresh salads or mild cheeses.
89 Rich Cook Aug 6, 2013

Buglioni, Delle Venezie (Veneto, Italy) Bianco 2013 ($19, Wilson Daniels): This fresh, well-balanced white from Delle Venzie shows more generosity of flavor and character than is typical of the appellation. On the nose it offers aromas of white flowers and spice, with notes of tropical fruit and richness on the palate. The acidity is fresh and lively, and the wine shows an attractive hint of minerality. Serve it with tapas, steamed shellfish or grilled fish. 92 Robert Whitley Apr 21, 2015

Benedetto, Delle Venezie (Veneto, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2010 ($11, GK Skaggs):  A great many Pinot Grigios taste non-descript.  Their crisp acidity makes them pleasant enough, but their lack of defined flavor ultimately renders them dull.  Not this one.  Crisp and fresh, it also has subtly layered flavors the echo citrus fruit, smoked almonds, and dried herbs, and finishes long and lean.  It’s a delightful warm weather choice.  Tasted blind at the Critics Challenge Wine Competition. 90 Paul Lukacs May 31, 2011

Bertani, Delle Venezie (Veneto, Italy) "Due Uve" 2007 ($18, Palm Bay Imports): This combination of Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc hasn't caught fire with other producers in the region, which is something of a mystery because it's an excellent combo that has been successful for Bertani since being introduced a number of years ago. The best-kept secret in Italian wine, perhaps, is the quality of Sauvignon Blanc from northern Italy. The Sauvignon adds weight and texture to this blend, and a hint of floral on the nose. The Pinot Grigio lends a bit of minerality and tames the natural pungency of the Sauvignon. With light appetizers or simply as an after-work sipper, Due Uve is clean, refreshing and a winner in either setting. 89 Robert Whitley Jan 13, 2009

Ecco Domani, Delle Venezie (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013 ($12): This familiar brand, imported by E&J Gallo, is something of a miracle in the bottle, considering about a quarter-million cases make it to our shores and yet quality is very good while the price is relatively low. This vintage, which includes a generous injection of Chardonnay for body and aroma, shows aromas of green apple and lime, is well balanced and it's so widely distributed you can count on finding it just about anywhere. If you're looking for a tasty house white, this could be your ticket. 88 Robert Whitley Oct 21, 2014

Ogio, Delle Venezie (Italy) Pinot Gris 2011 ($13, WX Imports): Pinot Grigio such as this one appeals to its fans in part because it is a somewhat neutral wine--that is to say it has soft, subdued flavors that don’t cry out for attention, and a clean, crisp texture.  There’s nothing showy or flashy going on, it’s a wine designed for you to simply sip, swallow, and enjoy the easy ride.
88 Marguerite Thomas Dec 3, 2013

Eugenio Collavini, Delle Venezie (Veneto, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2008 ($13, MW Imports): Showing more depth of flavor than is often found in northern Italian Pinot Grigios, this crisp wine offers citrus fruit flavors and a mineral-scented bouquet.  Fairly priced, it should be especially enjoyable when paired with fresh seafood dishes. 87 Paul Lukacs May 12, 2009

Cantine Buglioni, Delle Venezie IGT (Italy) 2013 ($19, Wilson Daniels): One of the many things that I love about wine is its ability to take you back to a place in your sensory memory that might not come forward via any other means.  This wine takes me directly to the age of 7 in my parent's backyard where there stood a large loquat tree that seemed to me to be perpetually loaded with fruit that I would eat myself silly on.  It's fresh, floral and viscous, with nice dry loquat and spice, and acidity to cut the viscosity and extend the finish.  I'll definitely have this in my summer poolside arsenal.
91 Rich Cook Apr 28, 2015

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Emilia Romagna:

Red:

Celli, Bertinaro Romagna DOC (Emilia Romagna) Sangiovese Riserva, “Bron & Rusèval” 2017 ($28):  Since Sangiovese, a grape associated with Tuscany, is the most widely planted grape in Italy, it is not surprising to find excellent wines made from it outside of that region.  Here’s one such example from nearby Romagna, which Mauro Sirri, the owner of Celli, is quick to identify as distinct from Emilia: “They’re known for Lambrusco; we’re known for dry wines.”  Bertinoro is one of top sub-regions of Romagna.  This graceful mid-weight red combines savory and dark cherry-like notes.  Wonderful acidity, for which Italian wines are known, imparts energy.  Long and refined, it has a real presence. It’s a hearty food type of red ideally suited for current consumption.         
92 Michael Apstein Mar 30, 2021

La Stoppa, Emilia-Romagna (Italy) Trebbiolo Rosso 2020 ($28, Louis/Dressner Selections):  La Stoppa's 2020 Trebbiolo Rosso is a beautifully fresh blend of 60% Barbera and 40% Bonarda from Emilia-Romagna.  It leads with aromas of Bing cherries, red currants, leather, dried herbs, and forest floor.  The palate reaffirms the aromas with hints of dried cranberry.  It has excellent concentration and structure with bright acidity and rustic tannins.  This would take well to a light chill and cries out for your favorite pasta.         
91 Miranda Franco Aug 30, 2022

Luretta, Gutturnio Superiore DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) 2018 ($25, USA Wine Imports):  One of the exciting and bewildering things about Italian wines is the ever-increasing number of DOCs that sprout like mushrooms after a rain. Gutturnio Superiore is a new one to me.  Formerly a part of the Colli Piacentini, another DOC I’ve heard of but could not find on a map, Gutturnio is the northwest part of Emilia Romagna, bordering both Piedmont and Lombardy, which may explain the grapes, Barbera and Croatina, used in this wine.  Barbera, after all, is a workhorse of Piedmont wines and Croatina, confusingly sometimes called Bonarda, serves a similar function in Lombardy.  It turns out, at least in Luretta’s hands, these grapes do well outside of their “traditional” regions.  Luretta’s 2018 is a large sized, 14.5 percent stated alcohol, plummy wine, with wonderful acidity that imbues it with life and energy.  Not hot or over blown, this weighty wine is balanced.  Fine tannins support the umph in the glass without interfering.  It has a rustic charm that makes it an ideal choice for robust grilled meats.       
90 Michael Apstein May 17, 2022

Podere il Saliceto, Lambrusco di Modena DOP (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “Albone” NV ($22, SelectioNaturel):  This is a textbook dry Lambrusco.  I found rich iron minerality supported this wine’s concentrated black and blue fruit body.  Italians from the region would pair this with charcuterie.  Personally, I would love it with a salame piacenino or prosciutto.  I also found it was an attractive alternative for my non-wino friends who are open-minded enough to “try something different.”     
89 Vince Simmon Apr 12, 2022

Marta Valpiani, Romagna (Italy) Sangiovese Superiore 2017 ($20, Five Flights Wines and Spirits):  Marta Valpiani’s Romagna Superiore Sangiovese brings Old World style and terroir to in this outstanding wine.  Produced by a mother-daughter power team, the winery follows biodynamic and sustainable practices in both the vineyard and winery.   The wine is complex with tart cranberry, tart pomegranate, anise seed, wet concrete, dried rose petal, and white pepper notes.  The balance of tart fruit, robust minerality, and floral notes is superb.         
93 Vince Simmon Feb 20, 2024

Sparkling:

Lini 910, Correggio (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Lambrusco Rosso "Labrusca" NV ($17, Winbow):  Slightly sparkling (frizzante), low-alcohol Lambrusco is the perfect thirst quencher during these steamy summer days.  Pop a cork on a bottle of Lini 910 and discover why these fizzy and chilled red wines from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy are perfect for sipping with a wide variety of foods.  This Lambrusco Salamino is blended with 15% Ancelotta to provide a deep ruby color and firm structure.  Intense flavors of lush plums, blueberries, raspberries, and violets jump from the wine’s well-balanced and structured palate.  It closes with a slightly tannic and lingering finish.       
90 Miranda Franco Jul 6, 2021

Paltrinieri, Emilia-Romagna (Italy) “Radice” NV ($22, Lyra Wine):  This Paltrinieri NV Lambrusco di Sorbara Radice is a far cry from the cloyingly sweet Lambruscos of yesteryear.  This is for those seeking a lightly sparkling, dry, crisp wine boasting vibrant acidity.  The Radice is made entirely with Lambrusco di Sorbara and opens with enticing citrus, berry, and wildflower scents.  With secondary fermentation occurring in the bottle, the bright palate doles out pink grapefruit, strawberry, pomegranate, and a sprinkling of ginger and baking spice alongside the racy acidity.  The mouthfeel is exhilarating and celebratory, with a long, memorable finish.     
93 Miranda Franco Dec 5, 2023

Cleto Chiarl, Emilia-Romagna (Italy) Brut de Noir Rosè NV ($18, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Founded in 1860, the Cantina Cleto Chiarli was Emilia Romagna’s first wine-producing company.  Though greatly expanded and modernized, the winery remains in family hands today.  This attractive Brut de Noir is a blend of 85% Grasparossa and 15% Pinot Nero.   In the glass, it is an enchanting coral-pink color with lively, tiny bubble action.  With its persistent mousse, the aromas offer fresh berries along with a little lemon verbena.  And the palate impression is medium bodied but fresh, light and delicate.  Some yeasty flavors appear in the dry, balanced finish.         
89 Norm Roby May 23, 2023

Cleto Chiarli, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “Vecchia Modena, Premium” NV ($19):  If, like me, you have been unable to see the point of Lambrusco, this wine will make the point emphatically clear.  It is delicious, with a soft fizz that brightens the red currant and cherry fruit.  Interestingly, it has a slight balsamic tang that really makes it pop in the finish, and no, it’s not just because it says Modena on the label — it’s there in a way that give the wine a sort of verjus freshness that keeps me coming back.  I love it when my mind gets changed by evidence.     
92 Rich Cook Jan 10, 2023

Cleto Chiarli, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “Vecchia Modena, Premium” NV ($18, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Made from 100% Lambrusco grapes by a single-fermentation process in pressurized stainless steel tanks, it is aged briefly on it lees and does not go through a secondary ferment.  In spite of its 100% varietal parentage, it is somewhere in flavor between standard Lambrusco and a Prosecco.  The wine has lovely tart berry flavors, is classically fruity yet with a crisp finish and has light, smooth tannins.  It is in the brut style with 11% alcohol, perfect for consuming throughout the meal as is the custom of the region.         
89 Roger Morris Dec 27, 2022

Cleto Chiarli e Figli, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) 2022 ($21, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  I have been told that Lambrusco is that rare sparkling wine that also serves as an everyday table wine as well.  In this instance, in the Emilia area west of Bologna where historically it has been paired with pork, the primary meat of the area, because its bubbles and crisp acidity cut through the meat’s fattiness.  It makes sense, whether true or apocryphal.  This one is a lovely and fresh frothy pink with good, fresh, creamy strawberry fruitiness and equally crisp acidity and some bitters notes to go with it.      
89 Roger Morris Jul 4, 2023

Venturini Baldini, Lambrusco Reggiano (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “Cadelvento" Rosato NV ($17, Siema):  Lambrusco sparkling wines with cured meat, and this wine sings for that pairing!  Perfect for a local wine bar that will serve fresh artisan charcuterie.  Personally, an artisanal bologna like Mortadella sounds perfect for enjoyment on an outdoor patio or rooftop deck.  This dry sparkling wine shows notes of fresh wild strawberry, red apples, orange blossoms, and a pleasantly rustic mouthfeel.  If that doesn’t pique your interest, their use of organic grapes, a low 12% alcohol, and a retail price under $20 should do the trick.        
90 Vince Simmon Mar 8, 2022

White:

Luretta, Colli Piacentini DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Aromatica di Candia "Boccadirosa" 2019 ($24, USA Wine Imports):  The minute you raise the glass to your nose and inhale the clean and seductive floral aromas you will be hooked.  The pleasure continues as the wine hits your palate with its clean and distinctive honeyed nuances.  The magic of Boccadirosa includes its intense yellow color and its engaging distinctly honeyed and floral aromas -- although the wine is beautifully dry rather than sweet.  Pure pleasure awaits you!           
95 Marguerite Thomas May 10, 2022

Luretta, Colli Piacentini DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Aromatica di Candia “Boccadirosa” 2020 ($30, USA Wine Imports):  In addition to the innumerable DOCs, the Italians use a mind-boggling number of grapes for their wines, which is another reason the wines from that country are so exciting to explore.  Malvasia Aromatica di Candia had me running to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes, which informed me that although Candia is an old name for Crete, there is no genetic evidence that is originated on that Greek Island.  No matter.  This is an alluring white wine, very aromatic, with the typical almost flamboyant Muscat tropical fruit aromas that carry through on the palate.  Though its aroma suggests sweetness, and yes there is a hint of that in this bold white, it’s not really a sweet wine.  There’s a melon-like richness balance by great energy and vivacity.  This is a wine to sip by itself or bring to the table when spicy Asian or Latin cuisine is on the plate.  Or when you succumb to a cheese course.      
90 Michael Apstein May 17, 2022

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Friuli:

Red:

Livio Felluga, Colli Orientali (Friuli, Italy) "Sassó" Riserva 2001 ($46, Moet Hennessy USA): A marvelous blend of mostly Merlot with Refosco and Pignolo, the 2001 Sassó is even more engaging than Livio Felluga's regular Merlot.  The first aromas tell you this is a special wine.  Rich with black fruit flavors supplemented by minerality, herbal nuances and spice, it's wonderfully balanced and complex. The ever-changing flavors in the finish will bring back for more. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2007

Livio Felluga, Colli Orientali (Friuli, Italy) Merlot 2004 ($24, Moët Hennessy USA): As with past vintages, Livio Felluga's 2004 Merlot is worthy example of that variety.  Ripe, but not over ripe, it has real character, with an exotic earthiness in the finish.  The moderate tannins are supple yet add necessary structure.  This bright and balanced wine is definitely meant for the table, not as an aperitif. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2007

La Tunella, Colli Orientali del Friuli (Friuli, Italy) Cabernet Franc 2005 ($24, Quintessential): Displaying a characteristic Cabernet Franc aroma (something that always reminds me of wet cement), this wine resembles a good Chinon from the Loire, in being medium-weight with faintly herbal undertones beneath its plum-flavored fruit.  It finishes very dry, with pasty tannin, and being young, probably will benefit from decanting. 87 Paul Lukacs Mar 13, 2007

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Merlot “Graf de la Tour” NV ($40): Collio is rightly famous for white wines, but it is also a source for some mind-blowingly good reds, such as this one.  It offers a marvelous mix of fruity and savory aromas and flavors, with a core of black plum and dark berry fruit with accents of tobacco leaf and baking spices.  Very fine-grained tannins lend just enough spine to help this finish with some firmness, but there’s noting astringent about it, and the texture is as impressive as the aromas and flavors.
94 Michael Franz May 19, 2015

Russiz Superiore, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Cabernet Franc 2013 ($30, Winebow): Marco Felluga and his team have made a drop-dead gorgeous Cab Franc in 2013, one that is highly complex, very flavorful, and yet almost aristocratic in its stylishness and restraint.  There’s no hint of the green aromas that can mar wines made from this variety when under-ripe, so you should shelve any prejudice you’ve got against Cabernet Franc.  Medium-bodied, it shows wonderful aromas of spices, woodsmoke, black fruits and dried herbs, and the palate notes flow seamlessly from the aromas, leaving an overall sensory impression of exceptional harmoniousness.  This may get even better during the next few years, but it is already so delicious that you should surely dip in now…even if only to learn whether you want to buy more before this vintage is sold out.
93 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2016

Azienda Fratelli Pighin, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($23, Kobrand): Pighin makes great Pinot Grigio. Located in Friuli Venezia Giulia region, they make two Pinot Grigio from their vineyards in two major DOCs, Grave, or Grave del Friuli, and Collio. With so many vapid Pinot Grigio on the market, it is refreshing to find serious ones. The bottling from Grave has spice, vivacity and unexpected-for Pinot Grigio-length (91); the Collio Pinot Grigio is more complex and denser, with an intriguing earthiness. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2005

Fiegl, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Merlot "Leopold" 2001 ($32): That's right -- 2001 -- and the wine is in perfect condition to this day.  It still shows a serious lashing of oak, though the wood notes are now fully integrated with the wine's fruit, which remains fresh and lively.  Savory undertones lend complexity, just as very fine-grained tannins lend structure.  An undeniably world-class wine, I would buy this in a heartbeat.
92 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2015

Russiz Superiore, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Rosso Riserva "Degli Orzoni" 2009 ($33, Dalla Terra): A complex, complete and convincing blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this shows a pleasantly leafy aromatic topnote -- though not one that is indicative of any under-ripeness (2009 was a notably warm growing season in Collio).  It is still rather firm thanks to abundant tannins, yet there's very good depth of fruit that will keep the wine seeming generous as it unwinds and gains even greater complexity over the coming decade.  Fresh acidity will likewise keep this in excellent shape, and though the wine is already delicious, it will richly reward the patient.
92 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2015

Russiz Superiore, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Cabernet Franc 2011 ($35, Dalla Terra): This wine from Marco Felluga is totally convincing and very complex.  It shows a subtle herbal aromatic note that is totally appropriate for Cabernet Franc (indeed, I’d have been disappointed if it didn’t show up), followed by dark berry and black plum fruit that is completely satisfying -- but without any heaviness.  Medium-bodied, with excellent freshness by dint of perfectly proportioned acidity, this is a very fine wine.
92 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2015

Pascolo, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Merlot Selezione “Vigne di Ruttàrs” 2010 ($30, Jessa Wine Imports): Although this wine was still a little hard when tasted a year ago, there is no question that it will develop for years and ultimately unfold into something very fine, as it is beautifully proportioned. The balance of fruit and tannin is excellent, and the aromas show a very nice herbal layer without seeming at all vegetal or under-ripe. Collio is one of the world’s best sources of Merlot regardless of the fact that this is still not widely known. The variety always gets ripe, even in cool, wetter years, with a very low tendency to rot even in the rainiest seasons. The vines must be managed to prevent them from over-cropping, but conscientious vintners can do very well…as exemplified by this wine.
91 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2015

Russiz Superiore, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Cabernet Franc 2005 ($26, Dalla Terra):  I understand not everyone will embrace this wine as I have. It is unusual, which is one of the aspects that I find attractive. And it is well made by one of Italy's top producers, Marco Felluga. This distinctive red has a dominant white pepper nose that mutes the fruit at first whiff. Be patience, for the blackberry, black currant and cherry fruit exists in abudance and will emerge after getting a bit of air. There is enough of an herbal nuance to identify the grape as Cab Franc, but otherwise this is a wine that will stump -- and likely please -- many an expert. And you'll love the fact it's only 13.5 percent alcohol, giving it a lightness and freshness on the palate that makes for a perfect summer red. 90 Robert Whitley Aug 10, 2010

Primosic, Collio Rosso (Friuli, Italy) “Metamorfosis” 2009 ($30): Collio is justly famous for outstanding white wines, but it also produces some excellent reds that are quite complex aromatically with moderate weight and structure.  This is a fine example now approaching its peak of development.  Based on 70% Merlot with the remainder comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, it shows a pleasantly herbal bouquet followed by medium-bodied flavors of dark berries with good depth and excellent balance between fruit, acidity and tannin.
91 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2015

Monviert, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Italy) Schioppettino 2016 ($46, Enotec Imports):  This is wildly expressive in aromatic terms at this point in its development, with some striking, borderline barnyard, old cask notes that never step over the line into seeming dirty or bretty or — as the French would say, animal.  Nearly a light-bodied wine (in a world that has ever fewer of them), this is so packed with character that the overall effect is uncanny — like 3 liters of wine in a 750 ml bottle, but not because of anything heavy.  A wild ride, and a fun one!       
92 Michael Franz Apr 4, 2023

Le Monde, Friuli Grave (Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy) Cabernet Franc 2014 ($17, The Sorting Table): Le Monde is a producer worth seeking out. While situated within the Friuli Grave DOC, their local conditions set them apart from most and yield distinctive wines. In an area mostly known for gravel, Le Monde’s vineyard have a greater proportion of calcareous clay, which seems to endow their 2014 Cabernet Franc bottling with added depth and richness. The wine offers a deliciously ripe and round style. The bouquet shows black cherry, red cherry and blackcurrant fruits with hints of green herbs, graphite and black pepper. The red and black cherry fruit flavors are underscored by savory herbal tones and black pepper spice. The herbal style of the Cabernet Franc is beautifully expressed and balanced nicely by the rich fruit. It’s a delicious Bordeaux-style red that will age gracefully for another 5 years and more. 92 Wayne Belding Apr 12, 2016

Crearo, Friuli Grave (Italy) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($17, International Cellars LLC): Cabernet isn’t the first varietal that comes to mind when one thinks of Friuli in northeastern Italy. In fact, it’s probably one of the last. Relatively cool, the region is best known for its crisp white wines.  While some Friulian vintners do produce good Merlot, succeeding with later-ripening Cabernet would seem to be a long shot there.  Well, here’s a wine that beats the odds. Medium-bodied, with firm but not aggressively astringent tannins, it displays dark berry fruit flavor, an earthy, spicy finish, and just a hint of herbaceousnes in the bouquet.  Very well-balanced and harmonious, it tastes distinct and different, and so provides welcome relief from the plethora of cookie-cutter Cabernets from warmer regions crowding each other out on store shelves and restaurant lists. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 2, 2010

I Magredi, Friuli Grave DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($17, Seaview Imports):  Most people don’t think of northeastern Italy for Cabernet Sauvignon.  Indeed, Friuli Venezia Giulia is home to some of Italy’s best white wines.  But, some Cabernet — both Sauvignon and Franc — are grown on the well-drained gravelly soil, which gives its name to the DOC (Friuli Grave).  With a combination of delicate red fruit-like flavors and lovely earthy notes, this mid-weight wine is decidedly enjoyable now.  Mild tannins allow it to take a chill without unmasking astringency.  Bright acidity and herbal nuances add to its appeal.   Those looking for the power and oomph of California Cabernet will not embrace this restrained style of wine.   
88 Michael Apstein Jun 16, 2020

Conte Brandolini, Friuli IGT (Friuli, Italy) Merlot “Vistorta” 2005 ($30, Palm Bay International): Sourced from Friuli’s Grave district, this is a terrific Merlot that shows soft fruit recalling black plums and cherries but also a defined, fresh profile thanks to structural acidity that keeps its Italian origins clear.  Very subtle whiffs of toast and smoke from barrique ageing lend additional complexity, and fine-grained tannins provide backbone without any bitterness of astringency.  Secondary aromas are starting to develop in this current release from the 2005 vintage, which offers excellent complexity and value for the money. 91 Michael Franz Oct 13, 2009

Conte Brandolini, Grave (Friuli, Italy) “Vistorta” 2007 ($25, Palm Bay International):  It should come as no surprise that Count Brandino Brandolini d’Adda can turn out a marvelous Merlot.  He is the president of Château Greysac, a leading Bordeaux property where Merlot accounts for half the blend.  And he brought in Georges Pauli, who consults with many Bordeaux properties, to lend his expertise to this wine, which is made entirely from Merlot.  With so much insipid wine labeled Merlot that gives the variety a bad name, it’s a pleasure to find one that really sings.  It’s a polished aromatic mixture of black fruit and earth notes highlighted by Italian vivacity.  Filled with “not just fruit” flavors, the 2007 Vistorta delivers far more than the price suggests.  It’s a beauty to drink now. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 21, 2012

Azienda Fratelli Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($16, Kobrand): Pighin makes great Pinot Grigio. Located in Friuli Venezia Giulia region, they make two Pinot Grigio from their vineyards in two major DOCs, Grave, or Grave del Friuli, and Collio. With so many vapid Pinot Grigio on the market, it is refreshing to find serious ones. The bottling from Grave has spice, vivacity and unexpected-for Pinot Grigio-length. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2005

Azienda Fratelli Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) "Terre di Risano" 2004 ($16, Kobrand): Although the Grave DOC is perhaps best known for Merlot, this wine is a beautiful blend Friuli's major white grapes-Tocai Friulano, Pinot Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc. It takes its name from the town of Risano, where the bulk of the Pighin estate is located. An alluring combination of floral and fruity elements, it has hints of ripe peaches, but without the sweetness. Its lively acidity, from Sauvignon Blanc, delivers the balance. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2005

Conte Brandolini d’Adda, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Merlot 2004 ($13, Palm Bay): Consumers will recognize this much more readily as an Italian wine than a Merlot, as it is dead dry and nicely structured with acidity--unlike many vaguely sweet Merlots.  The fruit recalls plums and dried cherries, with medium-bodied weight leaning toward the light side, making this a promising partner for chicken dishes or relatively robust fish preparations. 85 Michael Franz Jan 2, 2007

Antonutti, Grave del Friuli (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Nero 2018 ($20, Caput Mundi):   This elegant and nimble Italian red wine delivers red berry flavors enhanced by hints of spice, cocoa, earth and balsamic.  Thanks to its nicely structured delicacy this is just the right red wine to pair with turkey, chicken, and guinea hen.  It is also a tasty match for sautéed or roasted mushrooms.  Next year will mark the 100th year that the Antonutti family has been producing wines in Friuli.      
91 Marguerite Thomas Nov 24, 2020

Tenuta Luisa, Isonzo del Friuli (Friuli, Italy) Merlot 2007 ($21, Vias Imports): This wine shows delicious flavors and very versatile styling, hitting just the right balance between softness and structure.  Fruit notes of plum and black cherry are pure and fresh but not obvious or grapey, and the acidity and tannin are nicely weighted to the fruit.  Light undertones of spices, smoke and fresh mushrooms lend additional interest, and the finish tails off slowly and symmetrically. 90 Michael Franz Dec 8, 2009

Emilio Bulfon, Tre Venezie IGT (Italy) Piculìt Neri 2022 ($21, Terrior Imports):  In 1974, Emilio Bulfon set out to rescue native Friulian grape varieties that were in danger of extinction as demand for Merlot, Pinot Grigio and other international varieties was growing and supplanting them.  Those who appreciate the diversity and distinction among indigenous grape varieties are thankful for his efforts.  Bulfon has successfully nurtured vineyards of varieties like Cividin, Cjanorie, Sciaglin and Piculìt Neri.  This Piculìt Neri is a vivid example of Friulian red wine.  Grown in the western Friuli foothills, it offers a delicious combination of floral, fruit and spice nuances.  Its pure cherry and raspberry fruits are enlivened by hints of blackberry, wildflowers and allspice.  This refined and sleek style is underlain by subtleties of wild herbs and a smoky intensity.  Its juicy and forward style make it a versatile companion for a wide range of recipes.    
91 Wayne Belding Feb 6, 2024

Rosé:

Valentino Butussi, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio Ramato “Madonna d’Aiuto” 2018 ($70):  Winemakers usually transform Pinot Grigio, a grape with gray skin — hence its name, grigio — usually transform it into a white wine by pressing the grapes gently and immediately separating the clear juice from the colored skin.  When the winemaker allows the juice and the skin to remain in contact, instead of separating the two immediately, the resulting wine is actually pink and labeled “Ramato.”  At first blush (pun intended), a consumer might not know this is a rosé because of the dark bottle, so it’s important not to overlook Ramato on the label.  Valentino Butussi’s 2018 Ramato conveys considerably more character than most Pinot Grigios, delivering a virtual cornucopia of white and red fruit flavors, all supported by great acidity.  Long and refined, you won’t believe it’s Pinot Grigio.  Recommending two rosés in the same week is likely a record for me, but both of these are unique.   
91 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2020

Sparkling:

Eugenio Collavini, Vino Spumante di Qualitá (Friuli, Italy) Ribolla Gialla Brut 2014 ($20):  You’re excused if you’ve never heard of the Ribolla Gialla grape, which is unique to the Fruili region in northeastern Italy and adjacent Slovenia.  Even most of those who have heard of the grape don’t realize that it can be used for sparkling wine as well as still.  Well, here’s a head’s up -- at least in Collavini’s hands, it makes a super sparkling wine.  The still wine has an alluring density and attractive texture that shines in this sparkling version.  Bright, yet not aggressive, acidity holds it all together.  This is a bubbly to start the evening and then to carry to the table.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2018

White:

Castello d’Albola, Acquileia, Friuli (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2011 ($12, Zonin USA, Inc.):  Tank fermented and no oak, this Pinot Grigio is bright and crisp with plenty of fruit, an inviting wine for anytime enjoyment.  The color is a brilliant light gold and the aromatics offer citrus peel and ginger ale, while the flavors are fruity, crisp and dry with good length and 12% alcohol. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 23, 2012

Pighin, Colio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2005 ($23, Kobrand): For those tired of innocuous Pinot Grigio, look no further than the wines from Pighin.  This one, from Collio, one of the best zones within Friuli, has tropical fruit flavors and more complexity than the norm.  Fuller than most Pinot Grigio, it retains crisp acidity and a welcome bite. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2007

Attems, Colio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($18, Folio Wine Company): This ripe, medium-bodied wine brings more to the party than your typical Pinot Grigio--for better or worse. Although it is at odds with the stylistic stereotype most consumers hold for Pinot Grigio, many tasters will regard this as a pleasant surprise, since the wine is full of apple fruit with nice mineral edging in the finish. Substantial but still refreshing. 87 Michael Franz Nov 8, 2005

Livio Felluga, Colli Orientali del Friuli (Italy) "Terre Alte 2004 ($45, Moet Hennessy USA): An innovative blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Tocai Friulano that Livio Felluga created in 1981, it is always their most complex and alluring white wine.  Felluga's exacting standards means it's not made every year (Felluga made no Terre Alte in 2005).  The Sauvignon and Pinot Bianco undergo fermentation and aging in stainless steel tanks to capture and preserve their fruitiness, while part of the Tocai undergoes barrel fermentation and aging for additional complexity.  It's a blend of grapes and techniques that works well to create a complex, layered wine that has richness and depth, all balanced by bright acidity. 
93 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2007

Livio Felluga, Colli Orientali del Friuli (Friuli, Italy) Rosazzo “Terre Alte” 2006 ($70, Moet Hennessy USA): This extraordinary blend is comprised of Tocai Friuliano, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon Blanc, which could conceivably just result in a mish-mash, but in this case results in a phenomenally complex wine.  It is rich and concentrated, with medium-plus body and very deep, penetrating, long-lasting flavors, and yet it remains nimble and fresh, as the fruit notes are interlaced with marvelous acidity.  Lightly floral and herbal aromatic notes lead the way to fruit recalling white melon baked apple with an edge of lime, and subtle tinges of minerals provide an additional layer of complexity in the finish.  Obviously this is a very pricey wine, but it is far more intricate and compelling than most $70 reds, and a great partner for a beautiful piece of fish on a special occasion. 93 Michael Franz Jun 17, 2008

Livio Felluga, Colli Orientali del Friuli (Friuli, Italy) “Terre Alte” 2006 ($75, Moet Hennessy USA):

This blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon consistently ranks as one of Italy’s finest white wines.  It delivers full flavors that echo citrus and summer stone fruits, as well as toasted nuts and vanilla-tinged spice.  While forceful, those flavors come in a refined, elegant form, with both crisp acidity that provides structure and a creamy texture that delivers plenty of sensual pleasure.  “Terre Alte” has an impressive track record of aging well, and Livio Felluga tends not to release it until its ready to drink.  Any Italian restaurant with a decent wine list needs to include at least one vintage, and this 2006 would be a good start.  

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($28): This was (narrowly) my favorite of all the Sauvignons I tasted in Collio, and I tasted a lot of them.  That it was three years old at the time is a testament to its exceptional qualities, though in fairness I should indicate that it was poured from a magnum, and was hence likely a little fresher than it would have been from a 750ml bottle.  In any case, what came out of that big bottle was a lovely, supremely intricate wine that had only improved with age.  Light floral scents were joined by suggestions of limes and dried herbs, and as the fruit tailed away in the finish, it was supplemented by an intensely stony minerality that expressed itself for at least half a minute.  My raw note on this wine from an extensive tasting of Collio Sauvignons reads, “a wine to beg for… or steal perhaps, and maybe kill for if necessary.”
94 Michael Franz Oct 27, 2015

Russiz Superiore, Collio (Friuli, Italy) 'Col Disore' Bianco 2006 ($37, Dalla Terra):  Friuli's Collio is renowned for its elegant white wines, and here in one wine you can taste four of the primary grapes of the district in one spectacular cuvee. This stunning blend is 40 percent Pinot Bianco and 35 percent Friulano, with Sauvignon and Ribolla Gialla making up the rest. It shows ripe yellow stone fruits, a bit of a tropical note, with a good underpinning of acidity and just a hint of hazelnut and spice on the finish. Beautiful! 94 Robert Whitley Aug 10, 2010

Russiz Superiore, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon 2011 ($24, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): One of my greatest disappointments when traveling through northern Italy, principally Alto Adige and Friuli, is that so few of their outstanding sauvignons make it to the United States. Both areas are famous for pinot grigio and that's where the demand is. Russiz Superiore is the happy exception and its sauvignon is consistently delicious, as good as most sauvignon-based wines from Bordeaux and the highly acclaimed sauvignon blancs of France's Loire Valley. This vintage of Russiz Superiore is exceptional, exhibiting notes of grapefruit and white peach, with exquisite balance and a persistent, lingering finish.
94 Robert Whitley Jan 15, 2013

Russiz Superiore, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon 2010 ($22, Dalla Terra):  Marco Felluga acquired the Russiz Superiore property in 1967 It was to him “one of the most beautiful lands of the Collio.”  While Marco Felluga whites see no oak, a small percentage of each of the whites from Russiz Superiore are barrel fermented giving them a bit more heft.  This is an entrancing Sauvignon Blanc with grapefruit and lime fruit suffused with herbal and dusty mineral notes.  It has a stately structure intensified by vibrant acidity offset by round creamy notes from partial barrel fermentation and lees contact. 94 Rebecca Murphy Aug 21, 2012

Toros, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2013 ($22): Among the handful of best Friulano wines that I’ve ever tasted, this is exceedingly complex and expressive, with all of its aromas and flavors apparently derived from fruit rather than wood or cellar tricks.  The floral, fruity and mineral notes are all quite distinct and yet all exceptionally harmonious.  When a wine performs at this high a level, the only possible explanation is that the fruit drawn from the vineyard was, well, perfect.
94 Michael Franz Jul 7, 2015

Borgo Conventi, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc “Colle Blanchis” 2012 ($25): Established in 1975, Borgo Conventi is among the largest of Collio’s producers, and its wines are consistently solid.  This one, however, is downright striking.  Sourced from a single vineyard site, it is made in very limited quantities (roughly 2,000 bottles per year) from a special clone planted on just four terraces.  Of these four, only two of the terraces are used for making this special wine, which is notably rich in the signature Collio style, yet also quite fresh as well--also in the signature Collio style.  Exceptionally persistent aftertaste notes all tail off symmetrically, which is yet another indication of superior quality.  An extremely impressive wine that speaks even more of place than grape variety.
93 Michael Franz May 19, 2015

Ca’Ronesca, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($22): This is a terrific, excitingly complex and unusual wine.  The bouquet shows herbal scents characteristic of the grape variety, but also floral notes and even a vaguely nutty aroma reminiscent of toasted hazelnuts.  The acidity is relatively gentle but still more than adequate for providing freshness and definition in the finish, which is marked by a strongly mineral edge.  The wine actually reminded me more of a Sauvignon from South Styria in Austria than Collio, but there’s nothing wrong with that (since South Styria makes some of the world’s best Sauvignons despite being little known, and since this also shows that Collio can be a source for multiple styles).
93 Michael Franz Oct 27, 2015

Marco Felluga, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Mongris” 2011 ($18, Dalla Terra):  The Collio region in northeastern Italy is in some places a step from Slovenia.  It has more in common with the former Yugoslavia than other parts of Italy.  Here white wine rules, perhaps the finest whites of Italy.  This is a statuesque Pinot Gris with pear fruit highlighted with an insinuation of fragrant white flowers.  It owes no debt to oak for its elegant structure and lush, creamy mouth-feel.
93 Rebecca Murphy Aug 21, 2012

Muzic, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2013 ($22): This is an outstanding rendition of one of Collio’s signature grape varieties.  Substantial and generous on one hand, but fresh and energetic on the other, it is exceptionally well balanced, with fruit and acidity working in tandem to create a very interesting tasting experience.  Along with light floral aromas and flavors marked by stone fruit and mandarin orange notes, there’s also a striking suggestion of celery that makes this especially distinctive.
93 Michael Franz Jul 7, 2015

Pascolo, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Collio Bianco "Agnul" 2006 ($30, Jessa Wine Imports): This superb wine is usually blended from 50% Friulano (that is barrel aged) along with 40% Pinot Bianco and 10% Sauvignon, though in this vintage a small amount of Malvasia was included. “Agnul” is Friulian word for Angel, after Angelo, the current proprietor’s grandfather. Pale gold in color after 9 years since vinification, it shows some oxidative development, but all of this is positive in sensory terms, and the wine is far from over-the-hill despite being fully mature. The aromas recall honey and toasted nuts, and the fruit component is reminiscent of poached pears. The wine is now thoroughly integrated, with the oak virtually undetectable as an overt element, and it shows a wonderful layer of subtle minerality in its very long finish. I also tasted this wine from 2009 and 2010, but this was clearly the pick of the litter.
93 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2015

Picéch, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2013 ($22): This is probably my favorite wine from the Picéch family, which operates a lovely accommodation amidst a beautiful stretch of Collio’s vineyards and also operates a top-notch winery.  A totally convincing and charming rendition of Friulano, this wine offers lots of lifted flora aromas and then backs them up with real depth of fruit based on tropical and mandarin notes.  Despite the wine’s juiciness on the palate, it never seems obvious or sweet, and indeed the finish is marked by an interesting mineral tone rather than sweetness.  Tasted on three separate occasions, this wine was a star at each showing.
93 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2015

Russiz Superiore, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2014 ($27, Dalla Terra): Friulano is an intriguing grape which, when vinified well, yields delicate and complex wines.  The 2014 Russiz Superiore Friulano is an exceptional example of the grape.  Grown in the heart of the Collio Goriziano -- the rugged hills that encompass the Italian/Slovenian border -- the Russiz Superiore Friulano offers surprising richness and complexity.  It has a lovely bouquet of  green apple, grapefruit, lemon peel and spice.  The flavors are pure and exciting, with juicy grapefruit, apple and lemon fruit flavors underlain by subtle citrus peel, herb and spice tones.  It has a remarkably rich texture and will provide great tasting enjoyment for the next year and more.
93 Wayne Belding Mar 8, 2016

Schiopetto, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2016 ($30):  White wines of Italy are often overlooked because of the stature of the country’s reds.  Schiopetto, one of the top producers in the Collio, shows the heights that white wines can achieve in Italy.  This 2016 Friulano amazes with its lanolin-like texture. Hints of apricot or other stone fruit-like flavors are buttressed beautifully by bright acidity, which amplifies the finish.  Try it with seafood pasta. 
93 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2018

Sturm, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2013 ($20): This is a surpassingly complete and complex Friulano, with terrific fruit at its core surrounded by floral and mineral accents that are extremely appealing.  In structural terms, it shows excellent definition and acidic cut, yet still seems quite generous and almost rich despite its lovely freshness.  Outstanding.
93 Michael Franz Jul 7, 2015

Sturm, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($25): I had never experienced a wine from this producer before tasting this one, but my first impression was so strong that I immediately bought a magnum of it to haul back to the USA.  The aromas are extremely expressive, showing a fruit profile recalling a fresh peach pie along with mineral notes so palpable that they compelled me to write, “rainwater on hot rocks” while tasting the wine.  The midpalate is very generously fruity, yet the wine doesn’t finish sweet, as there’s lots of energetic acidity to counterbalance the opulence of the fruit and bring everything to an exciting conclusion.  Few Sauvignon Blanc wines from anywhere can pack this much sheer fun into a glass.  If my score is off, I missed on the low side.
93 Michael Franz Oct 27, 2015

Venica, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon “Ronco del Cerò” 2013 ($25): This is certainly one of the world’s best examples of Sauvignon Blanc, and indeed it is so good that I doubt that any experienced taster would dispute this assertion after tasting the wine.  Especially complex in aroma and multi-dimensional in flavor and texture, it shows superb depth of flavor and breadth on the palate, yet still manages to show excellent linear energy.  Fresh acidity counterbalances a slight hint of sweetness in the finish, which is very persistent and symmetrical.  Some of the world’s top Sauvignons attain excellence with sheer flash whereas others make the grade by dint of sustained attractiveness and versatility with food; this is a wine that reaches the heights on both of these counts.
93 Michael Franz Jun 9, 2015

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon “De da Tour” 2013 ($30): This is one of the world’s finest Sauvignon Blancs…every single year. Villa Russiz makes a ”regular” Sauvignon that is very good (about 40,000 bottles per vintage), but the “De La Tour” bottling is sourced from a single vineyard site and only about 10-15 thousand bottles are made in any particular year.  The clusters are not de-stemmed before pressing, and after vinification it spends 10 months on its yeast lees rather than the 6 months for the regular bottling.  All of this adds up to a wine with phenomenal dimensionality for a Sauvignon, with a fruit profile that includes both citrus and melon aspects, and also a riveting combination of substance and freshness.  This must be tasted to be believed, and even more amazing is the fact that this wine isn’t even the house’s top rendition of Sauvignon; the “Bleu” bottling earns that distinction, but at a price of roughly $120 in the USA, we’ll consider that wine on another day when I’m feeling more flush….
93 Michael Franz May 19, 2015

Borgo del Tigliof, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2011 ($22): A wonderfully interesting wine, this has aged beautifully, and is now showing very expressive minerality as the floral aromatics and primary fruit have settled down over time.  Although it doesn’t have the palpable acidic cut of a new release, it remains very fresh in overall impression, and everything that has been deducted during its maturation has been repaid -- with interest -- by other elements indicating positive development.
92 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2015

Branko, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2013 ($20): This rather unusual rendering of Friulano from Branko shows the variety’s prominently “feminine” aspect in its graceful, lifted, fresh finish.  And yet, the wine is also admirably concentrated and deeply flavored, with weight that makes it seem surprisingly “masculine” as well.  Superb purity of fruit serves to unify these rather divergent sensory impressions, providing the wine with an overall harmony despite its interestingly layered character.
92 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2015

Carlo di Pradis, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2013 ($22): An excellent example of Friulano, this is relatively reserved in aromatic terms, but shows excellent concentration and lots of acidity and minerality that sharply define the flavors while lending interest and persistence to the finish.
92 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2015

Gradis'ciutta, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Malvasia 2013 ($24): A terrific take on Malvasia, this wine shows very deft winemaking, and there's no doubt that the work in the vineyard must also have been excellent.  The evidence for this comes in the form of very expressive aromas and flavors -- as one might expect from this variety -- but with terrific length and structure for a wine made from a floral grape.  The balance is so fine that the wine manages to seem opulent and restrained at once, which is an uncanny combination.
92 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2015

Linon, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Malvasia "Soluna" 2013 ($22): There isn't a lot of varietal Malvasia made in Collio, but the best examples are so good that one wonders why there aren't more of them in commercial circulation.  The superb rendition shows heady floral aromatics and a wonderfully opulent mandarin orange mid-palate, yet it also achieves excellent balance thanks to fresh acidity and a streak of citrus pith bitterness that adds definition to the finish.
92 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2015

Livon, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano “Manditocai” 2013 ($22): There’s notable wood influence showing in this wine’s aromas and palate performance, and yet what is most surprising -- even arresting -- is how much freshness and lift and acidic cut the wine shows despite the wood notes.   This is an interesting and successful take on a traditional variety, reminiscent of almost nothing else in the world of wine other than perhaps a successfully oaked Albariño, which is likewise a real rarity.
92 Michael Franz Jul 7, 2015

Livon, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Ribolla Gialla Tenuta Ronc Alto 2013 ($30): Ribolla Gialla vies with Friulano for the title of Collio’s signature indigenous grape variety, and though Friulano seems the more consistent of the two, this is a Ribolla that shows such superb quality that the competition between the two varieties seems unlikely to end anytime soon.  Notably high acidity is expected from this grape and is certainly present in this finished wine, but there’s also exceptional concentration and substance that results in terrific balance and internal symmetry.  Interesting, the wine’s edgy acidity and rich breadth of texture are so well integrated that this is more a wine of harmony than tension, as is usually the case with Ribolla.  Terrific juice.
92 Michael Franz May 19, 2015

Livon, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano “Manditocai” 2013 ($23): This seems to show wood influence on both the nose and palate, and yet the overall profile of the wine is very fresh and even energetic, with excellent acidic cut that never seems to outrun oak so effectively.  Very faint floral aromas work beautifully with fruit and spice notes that mark the flavors and finish.  The only wine this resembles would be a superb barrel fermented Albariño, but that’s not all that helpful on account of the fact that this is a better wine than any barrel fermented Albariño I’ve ever tasted.
92 Michael Franz Mar 3, 2015

Marco Felluga, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 'Mongris' 2011 ($18, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Pinot grigio from Friuli in northern Italy, and in particular the sub-zone of Collio, has its own personality that set it apart from other wines made from the same grape in other parts of Italy and the world. Part of that difference is textural. Pinot grigio from the Collio has body and texture, which is quite different from the light pinot grigio produced elsewhere. Mongris from Marco Felluga shows a floral note on the nose, with aromas of apple and green citrus on the palate, and a hint of smokiness despite the fact it hasn't spent so much as a single day in an oak barrel. This vintage has the heft to stand up to the strong flavors of grilled fish and steamed shellfish.
92 Robert Whitley Jan 15, 2013

Marco Felluga, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Molamatta 2010 ($23, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Friuli's Collio zone, in the foothills of the Alps, is home to a number of white grape varieties with which most American consumers are unfamiliar. Wines like Molamatta could well change that. From the renowned Marco Felluga production team, Molamatta is a blend of tocai friulano, ribolla gialla and pinot bianco, three grapes that are common in the region. The pinot bianco is fermented in oak barrels, much like a white Burgundy, and thus lends a toasty, smoky nuance to the finished wine. The other two are fermented in stainless steel tanks, preserving their freshness and aromatics. The aromas range from familiar stone fruits to exotic tropical fragrances, giving the wine the essence of sweetness though fermented to dryness. It finishes with a subtle note of baking spice. Beautiful, and very, very different.
92 Robert Whitley Jan 15, 2013

Pighin, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($23, Kobrand): Although the recent rise in interest in this Italian white grape variety has spawned production of an ocean of uninspiring wine, Pinot Grigio from the right areas (Friuli and Alto Adige are at the top of the list) can be a serious wine when handled with care. Pighin produces a couple of Pinot Grigios from Friuli, but this one, from the Collio district, is the weightier and more complex of the two, with excellent intensity of fruit and exceptional minerality. The grapes are hand-harvested from low-yielding hillside vineyards at the foot of the Alps. The quality of the fruit and the care in handling are readily apparent in a Pinot Grigio that is several cuts above the everyday plonk that is widely available. 92 Robert Whitley Jan 3, 2006

Pighin, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015 ($25, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Pighin’s Pinot Grigio, made from grapes grown in the Collio region of Friuli, is even more impressive that there Grave bottling.  It has more of everything -- concentration and finesse -- without becoming overblown or blowsy.  It remains perfectly balanced with all the components somehow highlighting each other.  Its refreshing edginess and exceptional length keeps it exciting throughout a meal.  After tasting it, you realize why Pinot Grigio has become so popular.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2016

Primosic, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano "Belvedere" 2013 ($23): Sourced from a single site, this is a remarkably complex, layered, elegant Friulano.  It shows an uncanny combination of creaminess on the palate but edginess in the finish that really marks it as a wine from Collio… so much so that it would seem impossible any place else.  The lovely flavors recall mandarin oranges and stone fruit, and though these are quite generous, there’s still an overall sense of subtlety to the wine.
92 Michael Franz Mar 3, 2015

Primosic, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio "Murno" 2013 ($23): This is an exceptional rendition of Pinot Grigio from a single vineyard side that was planted in the 1970s in the village of San Floriano.  The aromas are subtle but detailed, with very interesting suggestions of smoke and musk.  The medium-bodied flavors are surprisingly generous, with stone fruit and white melon flavors edged with citrus.  The finish is strikingly long, with suggestions of minerals, apricot skin and a faint smokiness.  This may actually get better over the course of the next year and perhaps two.
92 Michael Franz Mar 3, 2015

Primosic, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Murno” 2013 ($20): This standout rendition of Pinot Grigio was sourced from a single vineyard planted in the 1970s… long before Grigio became a consumer fad and was planted in all sorts of places that were best suited to cranking out large quantities of innocuous wines.  Aromas of subtle smoke and musk get this off to a great start, and medium body provides satisfying substance on the palate. Layered in character thanks to tinges of minerality and a fruit note reminiscent of apricot skin that lingers through the finish, this is excellent now but also capable of holding or even improving for another couple of years.
92 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2015

Ronco Blanchis, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($22): Ripe, fruity and even juicy in profile, with fruit notes recalling stone fruit and melon characters as much as the standard citrus notes that often dominate Sauvignon-based wines, this shows its Collio origin right out of the starting blocks.  However, this core is foreshadowed by herbal aromas and followed by enough energizing acidity to offer a clear expression of the variety as well as the region.  This is a very successful rendering that should prove very versatile.
92 Michael Franz Oct 27, 2015

Schiopetto, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Bianco 2010 ($29, Vintus):  Those who believe Pinot Bianco (a.k.a. Pinot Blanc) is only a light innocuous white wine need to try this one.  Schiopetto, one the region’s best producers, holds their Pinot Bianco back a year before release because they know its stature.  One sip tells you this is like no other Pinot Bianco because of its extraordinary texture and depth.  Still, it’s sparkling clean and refreshing.  Thirty bucks for an Italian Pinot Bianco--who would’ve thunk it?  But it’s worth it. 92 Michael Apstein May 8, 2012

Venica, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon “Ronca delle Mele” 2013 ($20): The international variety Sauvignon Blanc is simply known as “Sauvignon” in north-eastern Italy, and Collio is a region that is among the world’s very best with this grape.  Venica is among Collio’s star producers, and this “Ronca delle Mele” bottling as truly stellar in 2013.  Beautifully balanced in all respects, it shows quite expressive aromas without turning overly pungent, and likewise shows refreshing finishing acidity without turning excessively tart.  Relatively rich for the variety but quite standard in this regard for Collio, this is a supremely versatile Sauvignon at a more-than-fair price.
92 Michael Franz Jun 9, 2015

Venica, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Malvasia “Pètris” 2013 ($20): Venica makes terrific Malvasia almost every year from a strain of the variety that they believe is distinct from most others.  Be that as it may, the 2013 shows lovely floral aromatics followed buy juicy, generous flavors that show multiple dimensions but recall mandarin oranges above all.  A wonderful foil for antipasti, especially salty charcuterie.
92 Michael Franz Jun 9, 2015

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013 ($28): Villa Russiz is an historic and exemplary producer in many different respects, one of which is that it makes one of the world’s most convincing renditions of Pinot Grigio.  Whereas this is usually a non-descript wine category, the Villa Russiz 2013 (still going strong) is quite complex and uncanny in its combination of seamless integration along with interesting interplay between fruit and acidity.  This vintage was described to me as a “perfect” harvest that was conducted over a long span of 25 days with cool nights and no consequential rain, permitting the picking of every variety and plot at optimal ripeness.  This wine offers powerful testimony to back up this claim.
92 Michael Franz May 19, 2015

Fiegl, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2013 ($20): This house dates from 1782 but only began bottling wines from estate fruit in 1992.  They certainly took their time practicing before hitting the market in their own name, and this excellent Ribolla Gialla shows that their practice paid off.  It shows plenty of juicy, satisfying fruit before the grape's characteristic acidity takes over and cleanses the palate in the wine's impressively long finish.  A model of balance between generosity and structure from this interesting variety
91 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2015

Marco Felluga, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio Riserva "Mongris" 2011 ($21): The very idea of a Riserva Pinot Grigio will be difficult for many consumers to comprehend, but this wine is always released much later than standard-issue Grigios, and is also much more complex than the norm.  Both its complexity and its age-worthiness are attributable in large part to the fact that roughly 30% of the juice is barrel fermented.  Nevertheless, the sheer quality of the fruit also explains the wine's excellence, as lesser grapes would be overwhelmed by oak notes.  The fruit is sourced from a single site, and though the wood notes are prominent, they certainly don't dominate the wine, which shows impressive richness balanced by fresh acidity and appealing suggestions of baking spices.
91 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2015

Renato Kerber, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2012 ($23): Knowing that this wine was made from the 2012 harvest made me skeptical initially that it could succeed in remaining fresh, but that’s exactly what it did.  Although the floral aromatic notes have receded somewhat and the wine shows rather gentle acidity at this point, it excels on the strength of very deep flavors and seamless integration.
91 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2015

Ronco Blancis, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2013 ($22): A wonderfully fresh rendering of Friulano, this was apparently bottled early with refreshment value in mind, as a bit of unresolved carbon dioxide shows in the form of bubbles in the glass.  This provides additional lift to a wine that is already quite energetic and crisp, which are highly desirable characteristics in a wine featuring floral and tropical aromas and flavors.  Immediately endearing, but also enduringly so.
91 Michael Franz Jul 7, 2015

Russiz Superiore, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Bianco Riserva 2007 ($30, Dalla Terra): That’s right -- Pinot Bianco from 2007 -- and the wine is still singing.  This has not only proved durable over the years, but actually improved even with extended ageing. With medium-plus body and a rich mouthfeel, it is a quite generous wine, yet also subtle and elegant, as is fitting for Pinot Blanc / Bianco.  It is starting to show the slightest whiff of alcoholic heat in the finish, so the time has come to uncork this, but the fact that the time to uncork it hasn’t already passed is pretty damned impressive.
91 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2015

Schiopetto, Collio (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($29, Vintus):  Sauvignon Blanc from Collio, a DOC tucked away in Italy’s northeastern corner, is unique, aping neither those from Sancerre nor those from New Zealand.  Schiopetto’s has a subtle mineral quality and just the right amount of bite, without being aggressive.  Pure and crisp, it’s the perfect antidote for the heat and humidity of the summer. 91 Michael Apstein Jun 5, 2012

Venica, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Friulano “Ronco delle Cime” 2013 ($20): Friulano from Collio can be a quite dramatic wine, with big floral aromas that can sometimes seem a bit overblown.  However, this is an especially stylish take on the variety from Venica, showing subtle aromas, broad flavors, and zesty finishing acidity.  Delicate and drinkable rather than overly demonstrative, this is a very convincing rendition of one of Collio’s signature varieties.
91 Michael Franz Jun 9, 2015

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon "de la Tour" 2006 ($55, Empson): This superb wine takes truly great fruit and augments it (rather than masking it, thank heavens) with just a whiff of very appealing oak.  The wood notes are just about as subtle as they could be, and most of the effect is really indirect rather than overt, as oxygen intake seems to have been more the objective than outright flavoring.  Be that as it may, the end result is indisputably delicious, showing quite complex fruit notes of lime, honeydew melon, and ripe fig, along with accents of dried herbs and smoke. 91 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2007

Zorzon, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($22): This wine is a little unusual in style for Collio, showing a pungent, grassy aromatic profile that seems closer to Marlborough or South Africa than the broader, richer norm for Collio.  Nevertheless, it is certainly an excellent expression, with a lot of linear energy and acidic refreshment value in a citrus fruit style.  Flashy, if not fleshy.
91 Michael Franz Oct 27, 2015

Dragna, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2013 ($20): This fine example of Ribolla Gialla succeeds on the strength of a strong mineral undercurrent that works very well with the wine's restrained fruit and highly energetic acidity.  Satisfying but also refreshing in the extreme, this should prove highly versatile at the table with a wide range of seafood dishes.
90 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2015

Eugenio Collavini, Collio (Friuli, Italy) “Broy” 2006 ($49, Distillerie Stock USA Ltd.): An unusual wine, both because of the blend and the winemaking technique, this is a sumptuous white that tastes truly luxurious.  It not only can stand up to rich cuisines, but almost demands them as an accompaniment.  A blend of Chardonnay (40%) Tocai Friulano (40%) and Sauvignon (20%), the wine is made with grapes picked very late in the season.  The Chardonnay and and Tocai grapes are dried before being crushed, so as to shrivel and concentrate flavors, while the Sauvignon is crushed and then preserved at low temperatures.  The entire blend then is fermented and aged in French oak.  The result yields a wine that seems simultaneously lavish and refreshing--a very unusual combination.  Golden in color, it tastes of tropical fruit (especially mangoes), with a faint herbal note, and just enough acidity to stay in tenuous but thrilling balance.  On its own, it may seem a bit heavy.  When paired with a rich cheese or a cream-enhanced dish, however, it comes into its own, the presence of the Sauvignon providing lift and verve. 90 Paul Lukacs Jun 10, 2008

Livon, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013 ($17, Angelini Wine): With all the mediocre examples of Pinot Grigio on the market, it’s understandable that those consumers really interested in wine just avoid the category entirely.  As is often the case, price doesn’t separate the wheat from the chaff with many vapid ones occupying the same price point as this commendable one.  Fresh and mineraly, one sip explains why the category became so popular.  It’s lively with plenty of depth putting it a cut above the usual.  You can reintroduce yourself to Pinot Grigio with Livon’s.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2014

Schiopetto, Collio (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2010 ($28, Vintus):  The Friulano grape (formerly known as Tocai, but changed at the EU’s insistence to avoid potential confusion with the Hungarian wines, Tokaji) is Schiopetto’s most important cultivar, comprising almost half of their production.  They do a splendid job with it.  The 2010 has a gorgeous texture and subtle stone fruit or honeyed quality without being heavy.  Lip smacking acidity keeps it fresh and vibrant.  Great length just makes it all that more enjoyable with grilled swordfish. 90 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012

Venica, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Bianco “Tàlis” 2013 ($20): Pinot Bianco is one of the world’s most delicious and versatile wines with food, and yet it is also among the most under-appreciated.  Collio is a particularly good source for excellent examples, and this rendition from Venica (a.k.a. Venica & Venica) shows fine balance between the creamy and defined characteristics that the grape variety can show.  It isn’t strikingly complex, but subtlety is the whole point of fine Pinot Bianco / Blanc, and this wine is subtle without seeming mute.  Excellent, and likely to get even better over the next year.
90 Michael Franz Jun 9, 2015

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon 2006 ($32, Empson): This exemplary Sauvignon is complete and convincing, with great balance between crispness and breadth.  There's plenty of expressive herbal aroma and lots of cutting citrus acidity for those who like their Sauvignons on the wild side, but the wine never seems too pushy or pungent in aromatic terms, and the acidity is bright but never sour or overly tart.  There's also a nicely ripe note of white melon that fills out the mid-palate, and the wine shows surprising weight and depth of flavor.  And on top of all that, this is not even the top Sauvignon Blanc from this producer, though it is within a whisker in terms of overall quality, with the differential between the two really coming down to subjective preference between more intense and more augmented styles. 90 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2007

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc "Sauvignon de la Tour" 2005 ($51, Empson USA): This classy Sauvignon Blanc from one of the world's great Sauvignon  terroirs is still very youthful, and it expands its expression even as it sits in the glass.  The nose foretells the wine's quality, suggesting depth, fullness and understated aromas of minerals, citrus and green vegetative character.  On the palate, the wine is dry and crisp but also fairly full-bodied for a Sauvignon Blanc, and it has a soft, almost creamy texture that is a fascinating contrast to the wine's high acid crispness.  It gives no hint of oakiness.  This is a Sauvignon that can age at least for five years and most likely improve in the process.

Bortoluzzi, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy), Sauvignon, 2005 (Empson USA, $18):  You could confuse this wine for a Pouilly Fumé in its gunflint aroma, but in the mouth, it has a bit more fruitiness than you'd find in Pouilly Fumé.  It's dry and crisp but not at all austere, with considerable weight and silky texture, as well as fairly succulent citrus flavors.  This wine has enough heft to stand up to dishes such as tuna in a Niçoise or Livornese style.  88 MEM

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon "de la Tour" 2005 ($51, Empson USA): This classy Sauvignon Blanc from one of the world's great Sauvignon  terroirs is still very youthful, and it expands its expression even as it sits in the glass.  The nose foretells the wine's quality, suggesting depth, fullness and understated aromas of minerals, citrus and green vegetative character.  On the palate, the wine is dry and crisp but also fairly full-bodied for a Sauvignon Blanc, and it has a soft, almost creamy texture that is a fascinating contrast to the wine's high acid crispness.  It gives no hint of oakiness.  This is a Sauvignon that can age at least for five years and most likely improve in the process. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Dec 19, 2006

Borgo Conventi, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2013 ($20): This shows the refreshing acidic sting for which Ribolla Gialla is famous, but that isn't the wines only attraction.  It also offers delicious, medium-bodied fruit as well as a faintly smoky edge that makes it enduringly interesting to taste.  Very well made.
89 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2015

Livio Felluga, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2007 ($25, Moët Hennessy USA): From one of Northern Italy's premier producers, this is Pinot Grigio that has both flavor and character (attributes that are often absent in Pinot Grigio from the Friuli region--why this invariably banal varietal has achieved such popularity among American consumers is a mystery.)  Felluga's wine has an appealing yellow-gold color, a sweet bouquet, and on the palate a strong impression of apricots and honey.  Because it is exceptionally refined and delicate, it makes a wonderful summer aperitif. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jul 22, 2008

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Bianco 2005 ($27, Empson): Along with Alsace and Austria's South Styria region, Friuli is one of very few places in the world where winemakers have the good sense to take Pinot Blanc seriously.  This delicious, supremely food-friendly bottling will show the wisdom of that decision.  It features a fruit profile with autumn pears and ripe golden apples in the forefront, along with a surprising combination of rounded texture and sharp acidic definition.  Good luck trying to find a food appropriate for white wine with which this medium-bodied wine won't shine. 89 Michael Franz Nov 14, 2006

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon 2006 ($32, Empson): A delicious Sauvignon Blanc that can give many a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé a run for their money, this mineral-infused wine tastes luscious.  Like those French benchmarks, the secondary characteristics prove as exciting as the citrusy fruit.  It's both complex and compelling, but then it should be--given its step price tag. 89 Paul Lukacs Oct 9, 2007

Branko, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Tocai Friulano 2005 ($20, Zoncanella Imports): Medium-bodied, with autumn fruit flavors, crisp acidity, and an almost viscous mouthfeel, this is wine is a fine partner for chicken or seafood salads, or in fact any dish that itself has a rich texture.  Though its flavors seem sumptuous, it feels refreshing, making it a fine choice for summer al fresco suppers. 88 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Branko, Collio (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2010 ($28, Masciarelli Wine Company):  Friulano is the name given to the grape and wine previous known as Tocai or Tocai Friulano.  The Hungarians had long lobbied that Tocai, although a zesty dry white wine, could be confused with their delectable sweet wine, Tokaji (sometimes spelled Tokay) and were successful in having the name banned beginning in 2008.   But the appeal of the wine remains.  The zestiness in this Friulano is balanced by real substance and concentration. It’s easy to recommend with roast chicken or hearty seafood preparations. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2012

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2006 ($32, Empson): Yes, $32 is a pretty hefty price for Pinot Grigio, but this is a delicious, highly versatile wine with much more depth and dimension than the run-of-the-mill Grigios that dominate sales in North America.  Ripe and rounded by comparison to the norm, it nevertheless finishes with bright acidity that balances the wine's heft and offers ample refreshment value. 88 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2007

Villa Russiz, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Bianco 2006 ($32, Empson): This is not going to be everyone's cup of tea, as this wine does not fit the stereotype of Pinot Blanc as a rather mute wine that is chronically short on personality.  This rendition is quite ripe and soft and rich, with fruit notes recalling very ripe pears, along with a faintly earthy, almost 'sweaty' character that I found very interesting.  Pair with moderately robust fish dishes. 87 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2007

Gradis’Ciutta, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) “Bràtinis” 2011 ($30): Collio is one of Italy’s three premier white wine sources (along with Alto Adige and Campania), and though it produces a wide range of single-variety wines, Collio Bianco is always a blend.  For many producers, Collio Bianco is the house’s flagship wine, but it can’t quite be the region’s flagship wine due to the fact that the varieties in the blend differ among producers. Gradis’Ciutta (an exemplary producer) always uses Ribolla Gialla, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and always draws the fruit from the same vineyard sites.  There is some vintage variation, however, due to differences in the warmth and yield levels of different growing seasons.  I haven’t tasted enough different renditions to know how the 2011 stacks up against other vintages, but I tasted this particular wine on three separate occasions…and adored it all three times.  Not only is it still alive at this stage, but actually quite vibrant and highly complex, with multiple layers of generous flavors and a very long, symmetrical finish.  It is so complex that it seems impossible that no wood was involved, but that’s indeed the case.  A totally compelling wine.
94 Michael Franz May 19, 2015

Borgo del Tiglio, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) “Studio di Bianco” 2011 ($24): Really ripe and generous in character, this is a wine with a lot of ripeness and weight on the palate but no lack of focus or freshness.  The generous fruit notes recall tangerine and mango, but just when this seems that it might be a bit too juicy, the late-arriving acidity energizes the finish.  Wines from the 2011 vintage in Collio often show this unusual sensory characteristic of late-arriving acidity, and this is a fine case in point.  Broadening out beyond the year, this also offers an object lesson in the unusually rich-but-sharply-defined template of Collio whites.
93 Michael Franz Mar 3, 2015

Carlo di Pradis, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) 2005 ($28): If you need proof that the top wines of Collio are amazingly ageworthy, this is the bottle that will prove the point.  This has not only held on for a decade, but developed and improved in multiple aspects.  The color shows the effects of time in bottle, but the oxidative notes shown in the wine’s aromas and flavors are all positive, lending complexities akin to those found in perfectly aged Champagnes.  The bouquet is especially marked by tertiary characteristics, but primary fruit is still showing from start to finish in the sensory sequence offered by this wine.  Its layered profile is also underpinned by remarkably prominent minerality that cannot only be tasted but actually almost felt on the palate as the wine’s flavors tail off in an impressively persistent finish.
93 Michael Franz Jul 7, 2015

Gradis’Ciutta, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) "Bratinis" 2011 ($26): If you see this wine, buy this wine… and buy it without fear that it might be cracking up on account of being sourced from the 2011 vintage.  Excellent renditions of Collio Bianco can improve for five years or more and can hold for a full decade.  This particular rendition starts with a super complex bouquet, followed by flavors that are very generous and almost succulent and tropical.  These are mid-palate sensations; as the wine finishes, acidity gracefully supersedes the juiciness and provides remarkable refreshment value for a wine from a warm growing season.  Starting lavish but then turning energetic, this provides a surprising and downright exciting tasting experience.
93 Michael Franz Mar 3, 2015

Ronco Blanchis, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) “Blanc di Blancis” 2013 ($23): Blended from Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Malvasia, this medium-bodied wine starts with subtle but intricate aromas, followed by fleshy texture and open flavors that are focused by fresh acidity.  Quite detailed and layered in profile, with exceptional quality in its aromatics, flavors and texture.
93 Michael Franz Mar 3, 2015

Ca’Ronesca, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) “Marnà” 2010 ($25): This is a wonderfully complex and expressive wine.  The aromas are quite alluring, but the real fireworks start once the flavors kick in, starting with opulent tropical fruit and mandarin orange notes.  A subtle undertone of stony minerality rises to the fore in the finish as the fruit flavors tail off, and the string of sensations is energized throughout by a strong streak of citrus acidity.  If my score is off, it is off on the low side, and this impressive wine offers yet another object lesson in the capacity of Collio whites to improve with extended ageing.
92 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2015

Tercic, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) “Planta” 2011 ($22): An outstanding wine from a difficult vintage, this shows an uncanny combination of creaminess and cut, with rich fruit recalling lemon curd that actually sharpens rather than dulls as the flavors tail off in the finish.  Complex in structure as well as flavor, this is a wine that would prove enduringly interesting to drink.
91 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2015

Livon, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) “Solarco” 2013 ($22): The front label indicates that this is a blend of Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, and I have no reason to doubt that, though I would have guessed that there was some Sauvignon in the mix on account of an herbal aromatic topnote.  Whatever the case, the bouquet (which also has a subtle floral character) is quite appealing, and the flavors are energized by bright acidity from the Ribolla Gialla component, which also provides freshness and persistence to the finish.
90 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2015

Zuani, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) "Vigne" 2013 ($23): This charming white is an unusual blend of Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio.  It’s a blend that somehow works, delivering a subtle whiff of white flowers, melon-like nuances and crisp balancing acidity that add vibrancy.  Overall, it has a softer, gentler profile that makes it work equally well before or with dinner.
88 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2015

Gradis’cuitta di Robert Prinic, Collio DOC (Fruili Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2018 ($21, Vineyard Brands):  The Princic family have been growing and selling wine grapes in the Collio area of northeastern Italy for a couple of generations.  When Robert Princic completed his wine studies in Oenology and Viticulture in Conegliano in 1997, he decided that they should make wine from their grapes rather than selling them.  This 2018 wine is an example of the wisdom of his decision.  The bright, light golden color and citrus, floral aromas with a touch of white pepper introduce juicy, peachy, orange flavors with a mineral saline note and vibrant acidity.  A 24-hour cryomaceration of the grapes before fermentation and lees contact until bottling adds texture and creaminess to the mouthfeel  According to Ian D’Gata in Native Wine Grapes of Italy.  Ribolla Gialla is “an extremely ancient cultivar native to the hills of Gorizia, but common in nearby Slovenia’s Goriska Brada.”  He also notes that Ribolla Gialla has long been “considered one of Italy’s greatest wines.”       
94 Rebecca Murphy Mar 1, 2022

Borgo Conventi, Collio DOC (Friuli, Italy) "Luna di Ponca" 2019 ($78, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Borgo Conventi wines have become justifiably famous as top class Friulian whites and the Luna di Ponca bottling is exceptional.  It is a blend of Friulano, Chardonnay and Malvasia.  The Friulano is aged in stainless steel; the Chardonnay and Malvasia in oak.  The blend shows benefits from all of its components.  The 2019 Luna di Ponca is rich and ripe with impressive breadth, depth and complexity.  It offers a luscious bouquet of ripe apple, peach and tropical fruits backed by fresh herb, floral, baked bread and spice hints.  The multilayered fruit character is enhanced by a seductively rich and creamy texture with the pure fruit flavors interwoven with vanilla and spice tones.  There is a lot to like about this pure and complex white.      
93 Wayne Belding May 23, 2023

Russiz Superiore, Collio DOC (Friuli, Italy) “Bianco Col Disore” 2016 ($40, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  A delightful yet more serious blend from the Marco Felluga stable.  Specific acacia aromas are joined by spiced pear and sweet grapefruit, and the fruit elements translate directly to palate flavors over a silky texture (thanks to large format oak) and a bright finish where the pear is elevated slightly now.  I’d like to see this alongside a spicy sea bass on the table – a light saline note in the finish will tie it all together.  Contains 40% Pinot Bianco, 35% Friulano, 15% Sauvignon and 10% Ribolla Gialla.   
93 Rich Cook Nov 5, 2019

Luisi, Collio DOC (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017 ($18):  The Collio district of Friuli is home to many of the finest Pinot Grigios produced in northern Italy.  The 2017 Pinot Grigio from Luisi is a beautiful example, exhibiting freshness and texture, with bright citrus and melon notes and a excellent persistence through a thoroughly satisfying finish.  
91 Robert Whitley Nov 20, 2018

Jermann, Friuli (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017 ($23, Jermann Wines USA):  After reviewing this vintage of Jermann Pinot Grigio last fall (Oct 22, 2019) I wanted to taste it again to see if had changed much over the past few months.  I’m happy to report that while it was delicious then, it has evolved into an even more beguiling and enchanting wine now.  A little more maturity has toned down the fruit a tad and elevated the minerality into perfect balance, while the acidity is spot-on without intruding.  There’s only one thing wrong with this wine:  I drank my last bottle of it.  
95 Marguerite Thomas Mar 24, 2020

Jermann, Friuli (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022 ($35, Maze Row):  This is the kind of Pinot Grigio that some sippers of the grape at wine bars might reject because it doesn’t taste anything like the simple, light, sugary, ultra-floral Grigio that normally expect.  Instead, this Grigio has an excellent mouth feel with galvanizing minerality and flavors of essence of apples and stone fruit than echoes of Calvados.  Very nicely done.           
91 Roger Morris Jan 30, 2024

Zonin, Friuli (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019 ($17, Zonin USA):  From its light straw color with hints of green and a bright citrus, floral aroma, this is not your Aunt Martha’s style of wine o’clock somewhere Pinot Grigio.  On the palate, this medium-bodied wine delivers green apple, citrus and honeysuckle flavors which lead to a no-nonsense citrus-tinged, dry, minerally finish.  With its pleasing texture and lengthy finish, it may be better suited as a companion to appetizers, but could work nicely with main course fish dishes.        
90 Norm Roby Dec 1, 2020

Ca’ Del Sarto, Friuli (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2021 ($10, Enotec Imports):  This is notably above the average for this wine type and price category, which I confess looks like “damning with faint praise,” but unless served ice cold (which is lamentably common with moderately priced Pinot Grigio), this shows real substance and flavor.  Closer to medium-bodied than light (which is a surprise in itself), with fruit flavor recalling white melon and golden apples, this is an over-achiever.  Often the choice in this category is refreshment value without flavor, or flavor without cut and acidity, but this gets the balance right.    
89 Michael Franz Aug 16, 2022

Campanile, Friuli (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2007 ($13, Foster's Wine Estates): The fruit for this juicy Pinot Grigio came from the Grave sub-region of the northern province of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, renowned in Italy for aromatic white wines.  Tank fermented and aged, the wine has lovely floral notes, ripe flavors (without being overripe), crisp citrusy acidity and good length through the finish.  With more body and texture than the regular Pinot Grigio, this is an excellent example of a vibrant wine with juicy flavors.  A good choice as a crisp accompaniment to hors d'oeuvres, or with lemon chicken. 89 Gerald D. Boyd May 20, 2008

Eugenio Collavini, Friuli Colli Orientali (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla Turian 2016 ($25):  I love the sound -- ree-bow-la jala -- when ordering this wine.  The only problem is the plethora or styles -- barrel fermented, orange or this beautifully fresh and vibrant version by Collavini.  There is no warning on the label alerting the consumer to the style, so once again, it’s producer, producer, producer.  Not only is Ribola Gialla fun to say, Collavini’s is a joy to drink.  It has a textural element similar to a top-notch Pinot Gris -- not Pinot Grigio -- but without a hint of sweetness.  Its density along with its balancing acidity make you stand up and take notice.  This is a serious wine, not just some bright flash in pan.  Try it with robust seafood dishes or linguine and clam sauce.  
93 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2018

Volpe Pasini, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy) Sauvignon "Zuc di Volpe" 2018 ($28, Europvin USA):  The hills of Friuli are especially noted for pure and intense white wines.  From Pinot Grigio to Friulano to Sauvignon Blanc and beyond, Friulian whites are celebrated throughout the wine world.  The Volpe Pasini Zuc di Volpe Sauvignon shows the depth and precision of the best Friulian whites.  Their 2018 vintage is fresh and vibrant.  It shows a wonderful combination of peach, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents followed by elements of green herbs, lily and almond.  The flavors of mouthwatering citrus, nectarine and fresh green herbs are backed by subtle floral and nut hints.  The wine is refreshing, layered, richly textured and is a great match for most any seafood or poultry dish.   
93 Wayne Belding Apr 28, 2020

Priara, Friuli DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020 ($22, Hemispheres):  I will admit it – Pinot Grigio isn’t my first “go-to” in white wine, but wines like this one could move the variety up my hierarchy.  Crisp mixed citrus notes and a specific sensation of nectarine are bright and lively, and they stay together through a long finish that begs another sip.  I’m all in on this style!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.       
94 Rich Cook Jun 29, 2021

Jermann, Friuli DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017 ($23):  This lovely Pinot Grigio offers aromatic hints of tropical fruits against a floral backdrop.  The palate tends toward crisp apple and juicy pear along with accents of minerality.  The wine was aged in stainless steel tanks.  With its complex flavors, good structure, engaging texture and generous finish this sophisticated white wine is definitely not your mama’s Pinot Grigio.  
93 Marguerite Thomas Oct 22, 2019

Jermann, Friuli DOC (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017 ($23):  Pinot Grigio has become so popular that, for many, it is a commodity, as in “I’ll have a glass of Pinot Grigio…” with no sense of site or producer.  The result is that a bevy of innocuous watery Pinot Grigio have diluted (no pun intended) the wine’s reputation.  For those who want to understand what real Pinot Grigio tastes like -- and see why it has become so popular -- reach for this one from Jermann.  Friuli, in the northeast of Italy, is one of the best sites for Pinot Grigio and Jermann is one of the top producers in that region.  Their 2017 is delicately floral, persistent and has real depth.  A bright finish makes even more engaging.  I recently had a 10-year old Jermann Pinot Grigio bottled under screwcap that had extraordinary complexity and suaveness.  For Jermann, Pinot Grigio is not a commodity, but a serious wine.  And very well priced. 
92 Michael Apstein Sep 18, 2018

Jermann, Friuli DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017 ($25, Jermann Wines USA):  This wine swims to the front of the ocean of this varietal coming out of northern Italy with its freshness and brightness.  Apple, citrus and a touch of spiced peach fly on wings of lively acidity and finish crisp and full flavored.  Drink up!  
91 Rich Cook Jun 4, 2019

Marco Felluga, Friuli DOC (Italy) "Bianco" 2016 ($18, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  A blend of Pinot Bianco ((67%), Pinot Grigio (24%) and Friulano (9%) this surprisingly substantial wine tastes fresh but also full, with enough weight on the palate to accompany many fish and poultry dishes, as well as zesty acidity that also makes it a delicious aperitif.  This time of year, with holiday entertaining coming fast and furious, its versatility makes it well worth buying by the case. 
91 Paul Lukacs Dec 11, 2018

Poggiobello, Friuli DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2018 ($25):  As with most traditional Italian Pinot Grigios the overriding theme here is delicacy.  A light fragrance resembling fresh hay wafts up from the glass, and in the mouth gentle suggestions of juicy green apple and lime dominate.  Serve this refreshing wine with fried food (chicken, shrimp), creamy cheeses, or mac and cheese.   
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 17, 2019

Vigneti Le Monde, Friuli Grave (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2016 ($15, The Sorting Table):  Vigneti Le Monde makes a delicious and affordable rendition of Pinot Bianco.  Their 2016 bottling offers a rare combination of power, depth and elegance.  This elegant white shows varietal purity with aromas of peach, red apple and pear fruits backed by floral and spice hints. The layered fruit character results in a rich and creamy texture.  Although Pinot Grigio gets more notoriety, savvy white wine lovers should seek out Pinot Bianco as well.  When it is as well made as the Vigneti Le Monde 2016, it shows marvelous elegance and complexity.  Very food-friendly, its combination of rich fruit and creamy texture lets it pair well with grilled seafood or summer salads. 
92 Wayne Belding May 15, 2018

Borgo M, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2010 ($11, Domaine Select):  Friulano is capable of making terrific wine in Friuli but--like its indigenous stablemate, Ribolla Gialla--it remains relatively obscure in the wider world of wine.  This situation wasn’t helped by the fact that it was long known as Tocai Friulano but has now lost that name under EU rules due to possible confusion with a famous wine of Hungary.  In any case, good Friulano is very, very good, and this rendering is a fine object lesson in that fact, with generous fruit recalling ripe peaches and pears, with surprisingly energetic acidity in light of how ripe and generous the fruit tastes.  Gorgeous as a stand-alone sipper but very versatile at the table, this is a wonderfully impressive wine that is still at the top of its game. 92 Michael Franz Mar 6, 2012

Bollini, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($18, Kobrand): I couldn't quite figure why my tasting sample of this wine had just recently arrived, as I'd think this 2004 would have optimally started its cycle in the market in late April of last year. Nevertheless, it is my job to taste without preconceptions, and though it was hard to approach this without thinking that its time had passed, it was easy to see that it was still fresh, and that it had actually acquired some complexity and dimension over the course of the past year. Pinot Grigio with sufficient character to improve with time in bottle...who knew? In any case, this is a complete wine for its type, now at the peak of its appeal. Aromas of tart apples and green melons lead into a palate that straddles the line between light and medium weight, with ripe fruit strongly counterbalanced by assertive acidity and notable mineral notes in the finish. Impressive stuff! 90 Michael Franz Jan 24, 2006

Borgo Viscone, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Friulano 2007 ($12, Siema): This is a compelling white wine that comes at a bargain price.  Delicately floral in the bouquet, it offers crisp apple-like flavors and a surprisingly rich finish.  Delicious as an aperitif, it also should pair well with light seafood or poultry dishes.  Though well-balanced now, its acidity seems restrained, so I would advise drinking it this spring and summer, and not saving any bottles for next year. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 7, 2009

Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015 ($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Buying Pinot Grigio, one of America’s most popular white wines, is like walking through a mind field.  With so many vapid examples on retailers’ shelves, it’s hard for a consumer to know how to choose.  Well, you can start with this one by Pighin.  White flower aromas lend a delicacy that is amplified by lemony acidity and a subtle hint of bitterness in the finish.  Balanced, clean and long, it serves double duty as an aperitivo-style wine and as a accompaniment to simple seafood.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2016

Vigneti Le Monde, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Bianco 2015 ($14, The Sorting Table): Vigneti Le Monde is a consistent producer of affordable and appealing wines.  Their Pinot Biancos offer a rare combination of power, depth and elegance.  The 2015 Le Monde Pinot Bianco shows varietal purity with aromas of peach, red apple and pear fruits backed by floral and spice hints. The layered fruit character results in a rich and creamy texture . Although Pinot Bianco is often overlooked, it shows marvelous elegance and complexity when crafted by the Cantine Le Monde.  This lovely white will be a fine companion for late summer fare.  Its combination of rich fruit and creamy texture lets it pair well with grilled seafood or summer salads.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 1, 2017

Villa Chiopris, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2008 ($15, Angelini): One of the better Pinot Grigios I’ve tasted in 2009, this shows uncommon depth and substance, but remains fresh and lively.  The fruit shows notes of ripe apples and pears, with a nice edge of acidity that sharpens the focus of the finish.  Although this is well suited to the sort of stand-alone sipping for which Pinot Grigio is commonly utilized, this can also do nicely at the table thanks to its unusually substantial profile. 89 Michael Franz Dec 15, 2009

Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2010 ($14, Kobrand):  I’m always surprised at the popularity of more expensive Pinot Grigio when ones like this one are widely available.  The Grave area of Friuli is one of the best places in Italy for white wines in general and Pinot Grigio in particular.  And the brothers Pighin have been a leading producer for decades.  Their 2010 demonstrates why this varietal is so popular.  Delicately floral, it delivers bright subtle fruit nuances and great length.  Vibrant acidity refreshes and amplifies the flavors. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2011

Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2004 ($15, Kobrand): This is one of the best 2004 Pinot Grigios that I've tasted, as well as a wine that has proved quite consistent from year to year. It shows subtle apple fruit and nice mineral edging, along with fine acidity. Although the wine is clearly light-bodied, it shows more substance and flavor impact than most Pinot Grigios, yet remains crisp and refreshing. 88 Michael Franz Jan 3, 2006

Plozner, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2006 ($18, Empson): February and March are tough months for lovers of Pinot Grigio, and for restaurateurs who must cater to them.  Most wines made in the northern hemisphere during the previous year's harvest are not yet available, and most made during the year before that have lost the freshness that is Pinot Grigio's calling card (and, some would chide, its only virtue).  However, this wine is still very much alive and kicking at this point, with subtle aromas but conspicuously vigorous, apple-driven flavors and lots of vibrant acidity.  Subtle mineral notes lend additional interest, and the wine is quite convincing regardless of its age. 88 Michael Franz Feb 19, 2008

Conte Brandolini, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Tocai Friulano 2005 ($14, Palm Bay): This is a very nice, reasonably priced Tocai Friulano that hits the mark with floral aromas that are expressive without being overbearing. They are followed up by light but flavorful fruit recalling white melons with a spritz of citrus and some subtle mineral notes. Dry but certainly not austere, this is a delightful aperitif or a promising partner for light appetizers. 87 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2006

Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2006 ($14, Kobrand): The incredible popularity of Pinot Grigio has resulted in a plethora of vapid examples on retailers' shelves.  Thankfully, Pighin's version is not one of them.  Its engaging aromatics, a lovely texture and refreshing crispness remind us why Pinot Grigio is so popular. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Luisa, Isonzo del Friuli (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon 2008 ($20, Vias Imports):  This is the best Sauvignon Blanc-based wine that I’ve tasted from Friuli in over a year, and that’s saying something.  Full of varietal character in both aroma and flavor, the wine is very expressive and yet neither pungent nor overly aggressive on the palate.  Notes of lemons and limes intermingle with white melon and dried herbs, with a very appealing hint of minerality in the finish. 91 Michael Franz Jun 22, 2010

Puiatti, Isonzo del Friuli (Friuli, Italy) Sauvignon “Zuccole” 2010 ($13, Vin DiVino):  Although the Friuli region of northeastern Italy might not rank foremost in wine drinkers’ minds as a world-class Sauvignon Blanc terroir, in fact it is a classic region for this grape variety.  This Sauvignon (as the grape is called in Friuli) is from the Puiatti estate, which is one of the properties of the Tenementi Angelini wineries.  The wine is dry, crisp and un-oaked, with fresh herbal and citrus aromas and flavors.  This is not a rich Sauvignon Blanc, nor a particularly intensely flavorful one, but it has true varietal character, weighs in at only 12.5 percent alcohol, and is fully dry. This is a very food-friendly white, suitable for all sorts of fish, chicken preparations, risotto, white-sauced pasta or pizza, and salads. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Oct 11, 2011

Livio Felluga, Rosazzo DOCG (Fruili, Italy) “Terre Alte” 2019 ($94):  From a winery that prefers to see what is possible rather than try to make things that fit some sort of preconceived notion comes this jaw-dropping (repeatedly, to allow access to the mouth) blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon from the far northeastern reaches of Italy.  The mix of citrus and tropical fruit with notes of underbrush and ginger push with energy from crisp entry through generous midpalate and bright finish where a little peppery note adds contrast and depth.  A real treat in the utmost sense.            
95 Rich Cook Mar 15, 2022

Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2014 ($20, E. & J. Gallo): I’m a sucker for well-made Soave (not the cheap stuff that comes in fish-shaped bottles).  Pieropan has produced wine in Soave since the 1880s, and its Classico is a fine introduction to the Garganega grape -- which has been blended with 15 percent Trebbiano di Soave.  The wine is steely and reserved rather than fruity and juicy, which makes it a fine foil for a wide range of foods, including roast chicken, pork chops, fish and shellfish.  Its wet-stone minerality comes largely from the volcanic soils of the region, and crisp pear, citrus and apple flavors balance that flintiness, closing with brisk acid finish.
91 Linda Murphy Nov 3, 2015

Jermann, Venezia Giulia IGT (Friuli, Italy) "Vintage Tunina" 2015 ($58, Lux Wines):  Jermann wines are justifiably famous as top class Friulian whites, and none merits the accolade more than Vintage Tunina.  The name Tunina refers to the old owner of the land on which the original vineyard is located. First made commercially in 1975, Vintage Tunina has become an iconic Friulian white wine.  It is a field blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Malvasia, Ribolla and the rare Picolit.  The 2015 Vintage Tunina is rich and ripe with extraordinary breadth, depth and complexity.  It offers a luscious bouquet of ripe apple, peach and guava fruits backed by fresh herb, floral and spice hints. The multilayered fruit character is enhanced by a seductively rich and creamy texture with the pure fruit flavors veritably dancing across the palate.  There is lots to like about this pure and complex white.  It can also age well for five years or more. 
95 Wayne Belding Mar 20, 2018

Jermann, Venezia Giulia IGT (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2016 ($30):  Jermann’s Pinot Grigio explains why that grape has taken the world by storm.  This one’s the real thing.  And don’t let the lowly IGT designation, instead of a more prestigious DOC or DOCG classification, deter you.  In Italy, the official categories often don’t correspond to quality, as this wine demonstrates.  Floral notes leap from the glass and are followed by good concentration, a sublime texture and a glorious finish.  If you want to know what Pinot Grigio really tastes like, try this one. 
93 Michael Apstein Jul 24, 2018

Schiopetto, Venezia Giulia IGT (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) “Blanc des Rosis” 2010 ($28, Vintus):  Usually a blend of four grapes, Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Malvasia, and Sauvignon Blanc, Schiopetto sometimes includes a fifth, Ribolla Gialla, when the wine lacks acidity. The 2010, an engaging wine with a broader flavor profile, has plenty of verve and vibrancy.  It would be a good choice for hearty seafood dishes. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 5, 2012

Jermann, Venezia Giulia IGT (Friuli Venezia Giulia) Sauvignon 2005 ($35, Empson):

This Sauvignon bears some resemblance to Sancerre because of the minerality that comes through on its nose and palate.  But it has concentrated citrus fruit character that emerges slowly, and more aromatic intensity than you would expect to find in a Sancerre.  It is bone dry and medium-bodied, with crisp acidity and a fresh, clean personality, not to mention the concentration and length that marks a fine wine.

Jermann, Venezie Giulia (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2005 ($29, Empson): Pinot Grigio that exhibits depth, weight on the palate and textured layers of complexity could be one of the most rare commodities in wine. There are exceptions to the simple, watery Pinot Grigios in fashion at the moment, and most of them come from northeastern Italy, where this typically prolific grape variety is treated with great respect and care. Jermann is one such producer, and its 2005 Pinot Grigio from the Venzie Giulia district is a splendid example of the elegance and finesse Pinot Grigio can achieve when yields are kept low and the wine is handled carefully in the cellar. This vintage offers a unique hazelnut aroma on the nose and subtle citrus and tropical fruit notes, with a textured mouthfeel that is most appealing. 91 Robert Whitley Jul 31, 2007

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Friuli Venezia Giulia:

Red:

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) “Monsvini” 2015 ($34, Vineyard Brands):  A Bordeaux blend with clear Italian fingerprints.  Gradis’ciutta harvests the Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon late in the harvest in order to concentrate sugars and flavors while the fruit is still on the vine.  The result is this rustic and complex vino rosso.  The wine is a deeply colored garnet and I found heavy fig and prune notes on the nose, likely from the late harvest of the fruit and a year in large neutral oak wooden casks.  I found the body to be equally complex with molasses chewing tobacco, pine needles, dried black fruit, and black tea.  The oxidative notes are well integrated into the fruit structure of this wine making an enjoyable experience.     
91 Vince Simmon May 10, 2022

Rosé:

Attems, Friuli DOC (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio "Ramato" 2021 ($16, Vintus):  Pinot Grigio, also known as Pinot Gris, is a white wine, right?  That’s because most wines made of this grape, and in fact, most wines made from white grapes are made without skin contact.  The skins of Pinot Grigio grapes are pigmented, unlike most white grapes.  Not dark color, but amber or golden.  In fact, that is why they are called Pinot Gris or, transliterated into English, "gray pinot."  So, in order to obtain this wine’s lovely, light golden pink color, de-stemmed grapes spend 10 hours soaking at 46˚F, imparting the grape skins’ dusty color to the juice.  The grapes are then pressed, the juice is allowed one or two days to clarify, then goes though cold temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks.  It then spends four months in contact with the fine lees, expired yeast cells, which enhances flavors and adds creaminess to the wine.  This process creates a traditional style from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia area of North eastern Italy, which is called Ramato.  It has enticing aromas of fresh peach and Rainier cherry fruit enhanced with floral notes of honeysuckle.  Juicy peach and orange fruit flavors are brightened with crisp acidity.  It is the perfect wine for celebrating the arrival of spring.    
95 Rebecca Murphy Apr 12, 2022

White:

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017 ($20, Vineyard Brands):  This wine is meant to push the envelope beyond what is expected of an Italian Pinot Grigio.  I found the fruit to be concentrated with apricot, almond, bruised apple, and white peach notes.  Lees aging provides a creaminess texture that rounds out the rich, mouthwatering acidity.  This wine exceeded my expectations for an Italian Pinot Grigio and is easily one of the best I’ve enjoyed from Italy to date.    
95 Vince Simmon May 10, 2022

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Bianco Riserva 2017 ($35):  An outstanding example of Collio’s white wine potential.  Made from three local varieties: Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, and Friulano.  I found this wine to be both round and complex with wet stone minerality, a touch of creaminess from lees aging, baked pear and apple.  While enjoying this wine, it is clear the winemaker, Robert Princic, is taking every step to gently improve what the year has provided.  Like all Gradis’ciutta wine, the wine is farmed organically and sustainably.  The winery started down this path after noticing a decline in their farmer’s health that they associated with chemical use.  Since becoming organic and more sustainable, the winery notes that they’ve seen an increase in quality and a reduction in heavy metals in their soils.  Even better, Gradis’ciutta intends to increase production of this wine in coming years.  Be on the lookout.          
94 Vince Simmon May 10, 2022

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Fruili Venezia Giulia, Italy) Sauvignon 2021 ($18, Vineyard Brands):  Gradis’ciutta’s Sauvignon Blanc, locally referred to simply as Sauvignon, is a rich, concentrated white wine focused on highlighting the terroir of the region.  To do this, Robert Princic uses 100% temperature-controlled stainless steel to minimize the impact of winemaking on the fruit.  It shows notes of red apples, pear, and peach, as well as a touch of tropical kiwi.  Additionally, I found a light creaminess from lees aging and a touch of wet stone minerality.  Minerality is common for the region.  Importantly, the winery recommends serving this with a moderate chill -- not too cold.  Be sure to remove it from your fridge a good 30 minutes before drinking or, alternatively, 45 minutes of fridge time from room temperature could also work.    
92 Vince Simmon May 10, 2022

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2020 ($25, Vineyard Brands):  A very classically-styled Collio white.  Gradis’ciutta aims to provide the best possible expression of Ribolla Gialla, the oldest known varietal from Collio.  I found this wine well balanced with Asian pear, olive pith, and green plantain notes.  On the body, it shows round, creamy textures from lees aging.  While this could be a bit difficult to find in the U.S., it is well worth the adventure.  Italians would pair this wine with cream soups or white meats.  Personally, a white bean spread on crackers would go perfectly with this wine.        
91 Vince Simmon May 10, 2022

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Chardonnay 2021 ($24, Vineyard Brands):   A wonderful Italian Chardonnay done in a Burgundian style.  This wine has all of the character and concentration of a world-class quality Chardonnay.  It highlights both Collio’s mineral-rich “ponca” soils and Robert Princic’s lees-aging style. It displays a round body, subtle creaminess, baked and fresh tree fruit, and a nice classically-Collio minerality.  The complexity and concentration suggest this wine will age well.      
91 Vince Simmon May 10, 2022

Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) "Bràtinis" 2018 ($30, Vineyard Brands):  Robert Princic originally made this wine in small quantities for his family.  It is a blend of three varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc.  For this wine, Gradis’ciutta selects vineyards with “ponca" soils — layered sandstone and marl — that are highly regarded in the Collio region.  I found that this unique blend drinks like a nice, moderately-oaked Chardonnay with a creamy round body, yogurt, and toast notes from neutral oak barrels and lees aging.  It offers suggestions of kiwi, passion fruit, and lychee notes from extended hang time on the vine.  This is an exceptional wine and, notably, my wife’s favorite of the tasting.    
90 Vince Simmon May 10, 2022

Gradis’Ciutta, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2022 ($16, Vineyard Brands):  The Ribolla Gialla grape is native to the northeastern extreme corner of Italy, in Collio as well as the adjacent country of Slovenia.  According to Ian d’Agata in Native Grapes of Italy, the first mention of Ribolla Gialla was in 1299 in a deed of sale.  The grape has a thick skin, which gives it the ability to hang on the vine and ripen.  It has low sugar, high acid and does not lose that acidity.  For this 2022 wine, the grapes were crushed, and quickly chilled for several days, a process called Cryo Maceration.  The purpose is to extract aromas and flavors from the skins.  The resulting wine has delicate aromas and flavors of peach and apple supported by lively acidity.  It is quite refreshing, great for sipping or paired with sushi or a seafood salad.           
95 Rebecca Murphy Aug 1, 2023

Tenuta Borgo Conventi, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2021 ($21, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Friulano is a popular variety in Collio.  It was called Tocai Friulano before 2007.  The name was changed when Hungary, home of the famous sweet wine, Tokaji, joined the European Union and successfully laid claim to the name.  Freshly harvested grapes, including small portion of grapes that have undergone cold maceration, were fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel for 10 days.  After the grapes were fermented, the wine remained on fine lees, the expired yeast cells, until spring when the wine is bottled.  The color is a golden yellow with orange tints from skins and the wine is smooth as silk from lees contact.  Enjoy with grilled seafood or a simple pasta.       
94 Rebecca Murphy Aug 1, 2023

Attems, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc “Cicinis” 2020 ($34, Vintus):  This mid-weight Sauvignon Blanc shows that where the grapes grow, Collio in this instance, matters.  The energetic Cicinis subtly combines the characteristic pungency of Sauvignon Blanc with a delicate creaminess.  A hint of bitterness in the finish balances appealing floral and peachy elements.  Its energy keeps it fresh throughout a meal and you coming back for more.       
93 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2023

Sturm, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022 ($19, Skurnik Wines):  This is a fun wine with crisp and refreshing flavors of juicy pear, apple, and citrus.  The very light pink color in this wine is due to the light color of grape’s skin.  The grapes were macerated and fermented in a new type of fermentation tank called Ganimede, which is designed for white and rosé wines.  Among its features it allows winemakers to exclude seeds, which can add a bit of bitterness.     
93 Rebecca Murphy Aug 1, 2023

Venica & Venica, Collio DOC (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Sauvignon 2020 ($25):  I have always sought out wines that outperform their price point.  At $25, Venica & Venica’s Sauvignon — locally shortened from Sauvignon Blanc — is delicious.  The wine is complex with sleek minerality, ripe stone fruit, and vibrant acidity.  A touch of floral bouquet extends throughout the wine and highlights the finish.  Whether you are enjoying this on a back porch to kick off spring or using it to highlight a serious food-pairing, this wine is enjoyable and will capture the attention of anyone you choose to share it with.        
91 Vince Simmon Apr 4, 2023

Marco Felluga, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio "Mongris" 2022 ($21, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Pinot Grigio is a funny variety in that mixed in with its fruity flavors, good acidity (natural or added) and often pleasant minerality, it seems to have a tasting dead zone somewhere just past mid-palate.  It reminds me of a characteristic that most old-style hybrid white grapes fight with.  It isn’t unpleasant – just a blandness that is a bit like cheese whey in flavor that interrupts the flow.  Marco Felluga and other good producers in Collio and Alto Adige do their best to overcome this (I’m assuming they are aware of it) to turn what is a pleasant wine into an excellent wine, and often mostly succeed.  That dead zone is barely present in this one, and the tart fruitiness, metallic minerality and crisp finish make it an enjoyable wine.     
89 Roger Morris Oct 10, 2023

Zorutti, Collio DOP (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020 ($15):  Italy produces roughly 40 percent of all Pinot Grigio even though that grape is not native variety to that country, according to Daniele Cernilli, one of the world’s experts on Italian wines.  As it has become an extremely popular wine in the U.S., the quality has become increasingly variable.  Many are innocuous.  Others, such as this one, are excellent, and explain the original enthusiasm for the category.  Zorutti’s Pinot Grigio displays a whiff of white flowers followed by good weight and cutting vibrancy.  The floral element combines with an enlivening salinity in the extended finish.  The wine’s substance is a welcome contrast to the vapid nature of most mass-marketed Pinot Grigio.     
92 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2022

I Clivi di Mario Zanusso, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2021 ($35):  This is just one in the stellar line-up of wines that Mario Zanusso makes at I Clivi.  In the right hands — and Zanusso certainly has them — Friulano has depth, a suave texture, and bright acidity.  I Clivi’s 2021 has all of that and more.  Zanusso wrings every bit of concentration from the grape without a trace of heaviness.  Its luxurious texture imparts a presence without being overbearing.  A subtle peachiness emerges as it sits in the glass.  Uplifting freshness in the finish seals the deal.  It’s a great choice for grilled fish this summer.         
95 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023

Albino Armani, Friuli Grave DOC (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2021 ($14, Saranty Imports):  The Friuli region in Northern Italy continues to be one of my favorites for Pinot Grigio.  Finding quality wines for a reasonable price from the region is usually quite easy.  For an under-$20 price point wine, this showed impressive flavors ranging from marzipan and cloves to bruised apples and candied lemons to honeysuckle floral notes.  Albino Armani makes it look easy to make such a delicious wine.          
94 Vince Simmon Dec 6, 2022

Jermann, Friuli Venezia Giulia (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022 ($25):  If Jermann’s captivating Pinot Grigio was your first experience with Pinot Grigio, it would be easy to understand the popularity of the category.  Alas, few Pinot Grigio have the character of Jermann’s.  Subtly aromatic, Jermann’s refreshing 2022 Pinot Grigio has appeal that belies its lightweight density.  Weighing in at a mere 13 percent stated alcohol, it delivers far more complexity and vibrancy than the commercially made and vapid Pinot Grigio renditions that have become all too common and given the whole category a bad name.  If you want to know the heights that Pinot Grigio can achieve, uncork a bottle of Jermann’s.        
91 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2024

Vie di Romans, Isonzo (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio “Dessimis” 2021 ($40, Vias Imports):  Grapes used to make this wine see 10 to 15 hours resting in a bladder press which is enveloped with inert gas to prevent oxidation.  The resulting wine shows a very pale copper color, often called ramato in Italian.  Described as an “Alsatian-style wine, it matches the billing with rich aromas of chalky soil and tangerine rind backed by a richly oily texture and exceptionally long finish.  Alcohol by volume is 14.5%.   
93 Andrew Holod Oct 10, 2023

Vie di Romans, Isonzo (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Chardonnay “Ciampagnis” 2020 ($37, Vias Imports):  This is straight-up delicious Chardonnay produced from vines owned by the estate and grown on gravelly, red clay soils.  The wine was fermented and aged on lees for 9 months in stainless steel tanks.  Aromas emphasize the time on the lees with savory, toasty and sweet nut oils in the fore.  Elegantly balanced, this wine would do wonders at the table with a range of dishes from roasted root veggies and poultry to braised meats.  Alcohol by volume is 14%.     
92 Andrew Holod Oct 10, 2023

Vie di Romans, Isonzo (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) “Flors di Uis” 2020 ($44, Vias Imports):  Bring on the most exotic foods you can think of and this wine awaits the challenge.  Starting with complex floral and herbal notes composed of linden, chamomile and resinous herbs this wine moves on with laser focused acidity and impeccable balance.  Seafood dishes, Thai or Vietnamese dishes combining pork with herbs and salty/sweet combinations will sing with this wine.  The blend is Malvasia Istriana 73%, Rhine Riesling 20%, and Friulano 7%.  Alcohol by volume is 14%.     
92 Andrew Holod Oct 10, 2023

Vie di Romans, Isonzo (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc “Piere” 2021 ($44, Vias Imports):  This wine shows the heights to which Sauvignon Blanc can climb, displaying excellent complexity in aromas from citrus, chalky, mineral, to pink grapefruit and golden apple aromas.  On the palate the wine expands with a zippy texture driven equally by a touch of CO2 reinforced by an energetic, dusty finish with floral notes lingering on the palate.  Alcohol by volume is 14.5%.      
91 Andrew Holod Oct 10, 2023

Jermann, Venezia Giulia IGT (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla "Vinnae" 2020 ($20):  The winery’s website states that this wine is mostly Ribolla Gialla.  In the U.S. if a grape variety is on the label, federal law requires a minimum of 75% of that variety in the wine.  So, we know that much.  Ribolla Gialla is an ancient grape, with its first mention dating from the late 1290s according to Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, et al.  It is an ethereal wine with a pale yellow color and delicate citrus, floral, and saline aromas.  It is light bodied with citrus, white peach flavors and laser-focused acidity that will pair well with fried calamari, sushi, sashimi or a salad of spring greens.        
94 Rebecca Murphy May 31, 2022

Jermann, Venezia Giulia IGT (Friuli, Italy) “Vintage Tunina” 2020 ($67, Lux Wines):  Jermann wines have become famous Friulian whites, and none merits the status more than Vintage Tunina.  The name Tunina refers to the old owner of the land on which the original vineyard is located. First made commercially in 1975, Vintage Tunina has become an iconic Friulian white wine.  It is a field blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla.  The 2020 Vintage Tunina is rich and ripe with extraordinary breadth, depth and complexity.  It offers a luscious bouquet of ripe peach and guava fruits backed by fresh herb, floral and spice hints. The multilayered fruit character is underlain by a  rich and creamy texture with the pure fruit and herbal flavors coursing across the palate.  There is lots to like about this lively and complex white.  It can also age well for five years or more.      
93 Wayne Belding Jul 11, 2023

Jermann, Venezia Giulia IGT (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020 ($22, Lux Wines): There was a time, decades ago, when Italian white wines in the US market were more often Soave, Verdicchio or Frascati.  Pinot Grigio was only occasionally seen and it was a specialty of producers in the Alto Adige and Friuli.  Pinot Grigio production has since soared, but much of today’s Pinot Grigio is simple, everyday stuff.  There are a few producers that make classic, rich and characterful Pinot Grigios and Jermann is one of the best.  The estate was founded in 1881 and now makes a fine range of white and red wines.  The 2020 Jermann Pinot Grigio offers a combination of power, depth and elegance that is worth seeking out.  It shows varietal purity with aromas of peach, pear and citrus fruits backed by floral and spice hints plus a deliciously creamy texture.  This is the style of wine that made the Pinot Grigio grape famous.  Its combination of rich fruit and creamy texture lets it pair well with fresh salmon and other full flavored seafoods.  It’s also delicious to drink on its own, as a refreshing start to a meal or for a relaxing finish to a long day.         
91 Wayne Belding May 31, 2022

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Lazio:

Red:

Corte Dei Papi, Cesanese Del Piglio (Lazio, Italy) "Colle Ticchio" 2018 ($17, Vias Imports):  From Italy’s Lazio region, this medium-bodied red wine made from Cesanese del Piglio grapes appeals first with its ruby-red color, medium body and herbaceous and cherry dominated aromas.  On the palate it delivers more hints of cherry and other ripe red and black fruits.  With nicely disciplined tannins and a satisfying finish it is a good partner for simple grilled meats and for tomato-based pasta dishes.  Although many of us associate Lazio, a region just outside Rome, with white wine, Corte Dei Papi is proof that reds can do well here also.  Lazio has been cultivating Cesanese grapes since the late 1700s.     
91 Marguerite Thomas May 11, 2021

Casale del Giglio, Lazio IGP (Italy) Cesanese 2020 ($18, Siema Wines):  This is a rich red wine with ripe fruit and a bit of a rustic style that reflects its origin.  Cesanese is grown in the hills around Rome and is often used as a blending grape for local café wine.  Although it is difficult to ripen, the grape can yield an aromatic and rich wine when grown in the right spot.  Casale de Giglio has clearly found the right spot.  Blackberry and black cherry fruit aromas are enhanced by elements of herbs, smoke, vanilla and spice.  This Cesanese offers a mouthful of flavor, with layers of rich black fruits backed by herbs, black pepper and spice tones with a zesty raspberry lift at the finish.  The 2020 Casale del Giglio Cesanese has a rich texture to go with its deliciously pure fruit.  It will provide great drinking for another 3 to 5 years.      
92 Wayne Belding May 23, 2023

Tenimenti Leone, Lazio IGP (Italy) Cesanese “Tera de Leone” 2021 ($27):  Tenimenti Leone's Tera de Leone is a beautiful expression of Lazio's beloved Cesanese grape.  The 2021 offers a mid-weight palate that is bright and lifted with generous layers of wild cherry, redcurrant, plum and a light touch of spice that complements the long, crafted finish.  The vibrant acidity of the wine makes it a perfect partner for ragu or pizza.  This is a truly distinctive wine within its price range.             
92 Miranda Franco Mar 7, 2023

Tenimenti Leone, Lazio IGP (Italy) Cesanese “Tera De Leone” 2021 ($28, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cesanese is the local grape of Lazio, the region which encompasses the city Rome.  This Cesanese shows loads of classically Italian earthy and fresh red fruit.  The wine also has an abundance of tannins, making it an excellent food pairing wine.  I find a new world influence in Tenimenti Leone’s winemaking choices and this wine has New World-style power, with 15% alcohol supporting its Old World flavor profile.  Enjoy this wine soon, as it was made to party.     
88 Vince Simmon Feb 28, 2023

Tenimenti Leone, Roma DOC (Lazio, Italy) “Capomunni” 2021 ($29, Banville Wine Merchants):  Roma received Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) status in 2011 and they are producing remarkable wines.  Tenimenti Leone’s Capomunni is more than a blend of Italian and international grapes, it is a blend of new and old world styles.  The black and red fruit is both sweet and desiccated with balanced earthiness that shows tobacco and leather.  This wine will be a hit for American palates while still preserving enough earthiness to show off its old world roots.   
88 Vince Simmon Feb 21, 2023

White:

Fontana Candida, Frascati (Lazio, Italy) 2008 ($10, Banfi Vintners):  Think back to your first bottle of Italian white wine.  If it wasn’t Soave, then it was likely Frascati, the so-called wine of Rome, because copious amounts of it are served in the trattorias of the Eternal City as well as the tavernas of nearby Castelli Romani.  Made from Malvasia Blanca di Candia, Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia del Lazio, it is tank fermented and matured, then bottled to retain all its lively flavors of peach and nectarine with a subtle almond back note.  Bottled at 12.5% alcohol, this Frascati from Fontana Candida is a good summer sipping wine or with pasta with cream sauce, seafood and cold salads. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 15, 2010

Fontana Candida, Frascati Superiore DOCG Riserva (Lazio, Italy) "Luna Mater" 2012 ($23, Banfi Vintners): Fontana Candida’s Luna Mater will transform your image of Frascati, typically a light refreshing, but otherwise undistinguished, white wine.  Well, Luna Mater is certainly distinguished.  It’s not just more concentrated than the usual Frascati -- though it is.  What is astounding is its character: complex, deep and long, words not usually associated with Frascati.  Its seductive creamy texture, the slightly bitter almond note in the finish, and racy acidity adds to its allure.  It has enough stuffing and verve to pair with full-flavored seafood dishes or veal scaloppine.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2016

Casale Del Giglio, Lazio (Italy) Petit Manseng 2015 ($20, Siema):  Dazzling aromas and breathtakingly flavorful fruit sets this Petit Manseng apart from the fray.  With all the complexity one could wish for, plus lashings of refreshing acidity on the finish, this bottling is a wine well worth its relatively low price.  Petit Manseng is a grape variety that is finding a welcome home in places other than its native French Jurançon region, including Virginia, New Zealand, and Portugal.  Casale Del Giglio’s Petit Manseng makes a terrific aperitif, and is delicious with any number of different dishes, from something as rich and creamy as Spaghetti Alfredo to a simple grilled salmon steak. 93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 21, 2017

Falesco, Lazio (Italy) Vitiano Bianco 2004 ($11, Winebow): Falesco is owned by Riccardo Cotarella, the renowned consultant. The 2004 Vitiano Bianco is a unique white wine, comprised one-third each of Verdicchio, Viognier, and Vermentino, and the blend really works. It is fresh and lively, with delicate lime and other citrus aromas and flavors. Cotarella thinks that Verdicchio adds freshness, Viognier softness and sweetness, and Vermentino character and structure. The 2004, just the second vintage of Vitiano Bianco, is a great value! 91 Ed McCarthy Sep 12, 2005

Fontana Candida, Lazio (Italy) 'Luna Mater' 2009 ($23, VB Imports):  For years, Frascati was thought of as a café sipping wine, a good choice  for a summer afternoon.  With the release of Luna Mater, Fontana Candida has taken Frascati to a higher level.  Blended from two types of Malvasia, with Greco, Bombino and Trebbiano Toscano, the refreshing wine has a brilliant gold color, grapefruit rind and mineral aromatics, good texture, ample fruit, 14.5% alcohol and a long crisp finish.  Even with the higher alcohol, this Frascati drinks nicely with no heat. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 24, 2011

Monastero Suore Cistercensi, Lazio IGP (Italy) "Coenobium" Bianco 2022 ($30, Rosenthal Wine Merchant):  Eighty Roman Catholic nuns tend to their estate vineyards in the Monastery of Cistercian Nuns located in Vitorchiano, roughly 90 minutes north of Rome.  They have been certified organic since 1993.  Their Coenobium is a blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Verdicchio, and is a wine for wine nerds (for better or worse, but better for me).  Slightly reductive at first opening, the wine opens up to show its complexity with notes including crushed almonds, limestone minerality, honeysuckle, baked pear and apricot, red apple, and orange blossom.  In the early 2000s, the Monastery partnered with Giampiero Bea, a prominent winemaker from Umbria, to improve their winemaking.  Their partnership flourished and, today, in addition to their Coenobium Bianco, they produce Benedic Rosso (red) and Coenobium Ruscum (orange) wines.         
92 Vince Simmon Feb 27, 2024

Casale del Giglio, Lazio IGP (Italy) Bellone 2022 ($17, Siema Wines):  This is a delightful, full-flavored white from an obscure grape variety and a relatively unknown region.  The 2022 Bellone, a local variety in the area around Agro Pontino, south of Rome.  The Bellone is a late ripening grape and benefits from the daily sea breezes in the Agro Pontino Valley.  It offers ripe fruit with concentrated flavors and the ability to retain refreshing acidity.  The 2022 Casale del Giglio Bellone has a forward nose of fresh flowers, pear, peach, mango and spice.  On the palate, the luscious layers of peach and exotic tropical fruit are enhanced by a lively, lemon zest nuance and a creamy texture.  It is a classic Mediterranean white that is well worth sampling.     
91 Wayne Belding May 23, 2023

Falesco, Lazio IGP (Italy) “Ferentano” 2012 ($20, Winebow): This is a delightful, full-flavored white from an obscure grape variety and a relatively unknown region.  The 2012 Ferentano is made from Roscetto grapes, a local variety indigenous to the area around Montefiascone, north of Rome in northern Lazio.  The Roscetto vine is naturally low yielding and offers fruit with concentrated flavors and the ability to retain refreshing acidity.  The wine is barrel fermented and aged in French and American oak.  The 2012 Ferentano has a forward nose of peach, mango, apple, vanilla, cream and spice.  On the palate, the luscious layers of peach and exotic tropical fruit are enhanced by a lively, lemon zest nuance and a creamy texture.  Try it with roasted chicken or grilled fish and fowl.
90 Wayne Belding Feb 24, 2015

Tenimenti Leone, Lazio IGP (Italy) “Sciccheria” 2021 ($25, Banville Wine Merchants):  Sciccheria translates to “chic" from Italian and is an accurate descriptor for the wine.  Light in body, this wine shows notes recalling melons, tart yet sweet green apple Jolly Ranchers, and a bouquet of white flowers.  The wine is light, fun and an excellent way to celebrate forthcoming spring and summer.     
88 Vince Simmon Feb 28, 2023

Falesco, Lazio IGT (Italy) Roscetto "Ferentano" 2011 ($20, Winebow): This rare white shows the character and style that can be found among Italy’s treasure trove of indigenous grape varieties.  The 2011 Ferentano is from Roscetto grapes grown around Montefiascone, in northern Lazio.  The wine is partially barrel fermented and aged in French and American oak.  It has an opulent nose of ripe apple, peach, tropical fruit, cream and spice.  On the palate, the luscious layers of peach and apple fruit are enhanced by an appetizing citrus peel element and a delectably creamy texture.  The subtle baking spices that linger at the finish add interest to the already complex flavors.
90 Wayne Belding Apr 29, 2014

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Liguria:

Red:

Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Niccolò V” 2010 ($30, Montcalm Wine Imports): I don’t know enough about all the producers in Liguria to say that Lunae Bosoni is “the best.”  But what I can say, after tasting their wines for several years now at Montcalm’s annual portfolio tasting, is that they are a superb producer.  Red or white, it makes no difference.  I’d be pleased to have any of their wines on my table.  Take this red, for example.  It’s a blend of Sangiovese (70%) filled out with Merlot and Pollera Nera (a rare red grape practically unique to Liguria) aged in French oak that you might think is “modern” because of the Merlot and French oak.  But no.  The Merlot and barrique aging add a subtle dimension without overwhelming the wine.  Italian vivacity stands out in this mid-weight red and the slight bitterness in the finish makes you return for another sip after a bite of hearty pasta. It delivers more complexity and enjoyment than you’d expect at the price.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 20, 2016

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) "Niccolo’ V" 2015 ($30, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Lunae Bosoni, the largest producer in Liguria, shows that big can be outstanding.  Niccoló V, their flagship red, is named for a Pope who was born nearby the winery.  A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Pollera Nera, which their website says is grown nowhere else in Italy.  The 2015 is sensational.  It’s floral, savory and layered with flavor.  It’s a suave wine that wins you, not with power, but with elegance, length and complexity.  It’s a bargain for what it delivers and you can enjoy it now because of its sublime texture.  
95 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2019

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni Rosso DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Auxo” 2012 ($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): Though the Colli di Luni Rosso DOC straddles two regions, Liguria and Tuscany, the blend is typically Tuscan, Sangiovese (70%) with Cannaiolo and Ciliegiolo.  A balanced wine, it achieves roundness and generosity without being overtly fruity of flabby. Indeed, there’s an attractive bitter note in the finish and Tuscan acidity keeps it vigorous and fresh. The tannins are refined, which makes it an excellent choice for current consumption.  The price makes it very easy to pull the cork this summer.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2016

Lunae Bosoni, Liguria di Levante IGT (Liguria, Italy) Ciliegiolo 2019 ($35, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Ciliegiolo, named supposedly because of cherry-like flavor, is a grape variety common in Tuscany where it is sometimes blended with Sangiovese in Chianti or its subzones, such as Chianti Classico.  Bosoni has done a marvelous job with it as a varietal wine in Liguria, not surprisingly since this is such a talented producer.  This 2019 is light red, almost a dark rosé, bursting with red fruit, dare I say cherry-like, flavors that dance on the palate.  A hint of bitterness in the finish adds complexity and nicely balances its bright fruitiness.  It’s delightful chilled because the tannins are mild and hence are not accentuated dropping the temperature.  For those looking for rosé, try this light red slightly chilled instead.     
93 Michael Apstein Aug 24, 2021

Rosé:

Lunae Bosoni, Liguria di Levante IGT (Liguria, Italy) “Mea Rosa” 2015 ($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): Readers know I’m not swept away by the tsunami of enthusiasm for rosé, often recommending chilling a light red instead.  Well, this rosé makes me reassess my opinion of the category. Made entirely from Vermentino Nero, an autochthonous grape from Liguria, it has layers of flavor that impart character.  Fruity and fresh, it has amazing substance and length for a rosé. Of course, it would be a good choice for the usual summer salads.  But it has enough energy and oomph to hold up nicely to a tomato-based seafood preparation. This rosé is just more evidence that Lunae Bosoni is a superb producer.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2016

Il Monticello, Liguria di Levante Rosato IGT () “Serasuolo" 2020 ($18, Serendipity Wines):  From the Neri brothers of Il Montilcello winery in the Liguria region of Italy comes this delicious and refreshing rosato.  It has a bright, pale red color with slivers of gold, light red cherry aromas with saline notes.  Flavors of red cherries, strawberries and rhubarb are supported by undertones of blueberries.  Crisp, lemony acidity complete this delicious composition that will brighten an afternoon by the pool or shrimp with lemon butter.  It is made solely from the Ciliegiolo grape, which according to some DNA studies is related to Sangiovese.  Ian d’Agata in his book  Native Wine Grapes of Italy says ”Ciliegiolo is one of the country’s greatest but most underappreciated grape varieties, allowing for wines of mesmerizingly pure aromas and flavors.”          
93 Rebecca Murphy Aug 31, 2021

White:

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Lunae" Etichetta Nera 2020 ($30, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Vermentino is an aromatic and full-bodied white grown mostly northern Italy and Sardinia.  Lunae Bosoni is an excellent producer in eastern Liguria and has found a particularly good source of Vermentino grapes in the Colli di Luni subregion.  Their 2020 Etichetta Nera Vermentino is drawn from older vines that yield grapes of great intensity.  It is a luscious sensory experience for those new to this aromatic Italian variety.  Its rich aromas of peach, ripe apple and tropical fruits are enhanced by linden flower, herb and citrus peel hints.  The flavors are exotic and appealing with the luscious apricot, peach and mango fruits backed by delicate floral, mint and citrus peel tones.          
92 Wayne Belding Dec 28, 2021

Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino "Etichetta Nera" 2022 ($42):  Ok, forty plus bucks for a Vermentino is a big ask.  Trust me, this is likely the best Vermentino you will ever taste.  This tightly wound wonder (identified as "Etichetta Nera" or Black Label) has great power coupled with extraordinary grace.  Not a heavy wine, weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol, it still has an imposing presence.  Long and finesse-filled, it delivers a mouth-watering salinity that magnifies its chiseled minerality.  A hint of bitterness in the finish makes it a perfect choice for whatever comes from the sea.  Think of it as a great forty-dollar white wine.     
95 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2023

Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2014 ($40, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Forty dollars for a Vermentino, a wine more often found in the under $20 category, is an extraordinary price.  But this one, Lunae’s Black Label and the winery’s flagship, is an extraordinary wine.  After tasting the 2014, I can understand why Gambero Rosso, the prestigious Italian wine guide, has awarded the wine Tre Bicchieri (their highest accolade) for six consecutive years.  The 2014 delivers alluring bright spice -- an almost white pepper quality -- and saltiness.  Unencumbered by oak aging, its clean and crisp nature imparts a palate tingling vivacity that carries through to an exceptional finish.  Each sip brings additional nuances, making it a delight to sip throughout a meal.  Savor this Vermentino with simply grilled fish to allow the wine to shine.  It will.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2015

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino "Black Label" 2018 ($40, Montcalm Wine Importers):  I know my editor, and others, are wondering how I could possibly could give 95 points to a Vermentino.  Taste it and you’ll see.  As much as I like Lunae Bosoni’s “Grey Label” Vermentino, this, their so-called “Black Label,” is just better.  It has everything that their Grey Label has, but is longer, denser, more complex.  In brief, it’s a more complete wine.  Both floral and mineral-infused, it’s amazingly long and bright.  It has enormous energy that persists into the finish and then some.  It’s one of the best Vermentinos I’ve ever had.  The leap in quality is likely due to both a careful selection of grapes and a bit, but not too much, of skin maceration in the winery.  On a personal note, usually, after I taste samples that have been sent to me, I give the remainder of the bottles to friends.  Not this one.  I drank it with our dinner of grilled swordfish in a robust tomato caper sauce.  Gambero Rosso, one of Italy’s most prominent wine reviewers, has awarded this wine tre bicchieri (three glasses), its highest ranking, 10 years in a row.  I’m betting this will be the 11th.  
95 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019

Il Monticello, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Groppolo” 2019 ($24, Enotria Imports & Serendipity Wines):  Aromas of grapefruit zest, subtle pineapple, toasted almonds, floral notes introduce a light-bodied, fresh wine with juicy peach, pineapple flavors with notes of grapefruit zest that lend a slight, palate-cleansing bitter note.  The crisp, citrusy acidity adds to the refreshing quality of the wine.   Serve it as an aperitif to get your tastebuds primed for linguini with crab, baked halibut, or fish tacos.  Pier Luigi Neri inherited a property in Liguria, a region in Italy.   Its capital is Genoa and it is home to the tourist mecca Cinque Terra, which most of us probably thought was in Tuscany.  Neri planted vineyards as a hobby.  Fortunately for him, his  sons, Alessandro and Davide, took over the management of the estate and winery in 1994.  They first converted from traditional to organic agriculture and now farm biodynamically.  They have almost 30 acres of vines with a total annual production of over 5400 cases.  Their winemaker, Nicola Tucci, worked many years in the Mosel region of Germany.  Perhaps that explains the bottle, which is a traditional German Riesling bottle.    
93 Rebecca Murphy Dec 8, 2020

Il Monticello, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Poggio Paterno” 2020 ($27, Serendipity Wines): Brothers Alessandro and Davide Neri took over their father’s vineyards and winery in 1994, and over time have converted their vineyards to biodynamic farming.  Winemaker Nicola Tucci knows his way around white wines, since he previously made wines in Germany.  He has worked his magic on this Poggio Paterno dry Vermentino allowing the grapes two hours of skin contact before it was fermented in barriques, undergoing malolactic fermentation, a process which converts the grapes’ malic acid to lactic acid creating a softer mouthfeel.  The wine also spent additional time on the lees adding a creamy texture.   The result is a rich, complex, dry wine with lush flavors of peach, pineapple with a touch of pink grapefruit round and creamy in the mouth.   Enjoy with grilled salmon or pork tenderloin.        
93 Rebecca Murphy Jan 31, 2023

Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino "Etichetta Gris" 2022 ($24):  Anyone who wants to see the potential of Vermentino just needs to uncork one from Lunae.  This one, which translates as Grey Label, is stunning, even though it is not their top-of-line bottling (that would be the Black Label, or Etichetta Nera.  Weighing in at a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol, it nonetheless astounds the palate with its persistence.  This minerally white has a saline-like acidity that emphasizes its freshness and depth.  A delicate hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces its zesty sleek profile.  As lovely as Lunae’s IGT Vermentino is, this DOC bottling reminds us that site matters.    
93 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2023

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Cavagino” 2017 ($45, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Though this Vermentino comes from three vineyards in the more highly regarded Cavagino area of the DOC, I suspect that the major difference in the wine’s character compared to Lunae Bosoni’s other Vermentinos is in the winemaking, because they have been experimenting with barrique fermentation.  Forty percent of this wine underwent barrique fermentation, which lends a bit of creaminess to Bosoni’s Vermentino hallmark floral spicy nose and freshness.  The oak influence is not intrusive.  It adds an extra dimension at the expense of some of the Vermentino’s energy.  
92 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Numero Chiuso” 2015 ($60, Montcalm Wine Importers):  This, Bosoni’s “number one,” is a limited production of 2,600 bottles from a single 20-hl barrel, where the wine rested on the lees for 14 months.  The lees aging adds richness and roundness, which results in a different expression of Vermentino.  Though still bright and refreshing, the wine’s suaveness mutes its vivacity a bit.  Bosoni’s Numero Chiuso and their Cavagini complete a gorgeous quartet of Vermentino that offers something for everyone.  
92 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2015 ($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): If you see Lunae Bosoni’s name on a label, buy the wine.  This producer is consistently top-notch, whether it’s a white wine, like this Vermentino, a rosé -- their Mea Rosa is stunning -- or a red.  Their Etichetta Grigia, or grey label, distinguishes it from their flagship Vermentino, which is adorned with a black label.  Vermentino can certainly disappoint and you might think if they produce a flagship wine, any other Vermentino should be avoided as vapid swill.  How wrong you’d be.  This is a stunning little brother of a wine showing intensity and a captivating edginess.  A pineapple-like spice adds another dimension. It has requisite concentration and freshness to hold up against a hearty seafood stew.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2016

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino "Grey Label" 2018 ($25, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Lunae Bosoni, the largest winery in Liguria, shows that big can be beautiful.  They make an exquisitely consistent line-up of Vermentino.  Scents of wild herbs and spice leap from the glass of this one, their so-called entry level wine.  Its clean and cutting nature enlivens the palate.  A subtle touch of white pepper-like spice in the finish enhances its appeal.  It’s a fantastic choice for summertime seafood, such as linguine bathed in a clam sauce. 
91 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” (Grey Label) 2020 ($25, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Lunae Bosoni, one of Liguria’s top producers, consistently makes a stunning line up of Vermentino wines.  The 2020 maintains that tradition.  Riper than usual in this vintage, this nevertheless has very energetic acidity holds everything together.  An intriguing and uplifting saline touch keeps you interested and invites another sip.  This is a great choice for a spicy seafood pasta or sushi.  If this helps you to find it, “Etichetta Grigia” means Grey Label.  
90 Michael Apstein Mar 23, 2021

Punta Crena, Colline Savonesi (Liguria, Italy) Mataòssu Vigneto Reiné 2013 ($27, Kermit Lynch): Wine lovers like me tend to seek out new and unusual grape varieties that they have not tasted previously to add to their vinous experience.  The 2013 Mataòssu bottling from Punta Crena certainly falls into that category.  Grown on terraced cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean waters of Liguria, the wine reveals a classic Mediterranean style.  Pure aromas and flavors of lemon zest, green apple and grapefruit are enhanced by hints of white flowers and delicate green herbs.  The flavors are clean, pure and bright with the citrusy tones nicely balanced by the wine's surprisingly rich texture and the delicate herbal tones that linger at the finish.  It will be a wonderful wine to enjoy with fresh seafood this spring.
90 Wayne Belding Mar 31, 2015

Lunae, Liguria di Levante IGT (Italy) Vermentino "Labianca" 2022 ($20):  There is no better producer of Vermentino than Lunae.  And this light — 12.5 percent stated alcohol — and fresh IGT Vermentino, their so-called “entry level” wine, shows Lunae’s talents.  A hint of minerals buttressed by saline-acidity gives this bright and zesty wine a bit of depth.  Even though it is less prestigious than Lunae’s superb DOC Vermentino, it still grows in the glass.  It’s a fine introduction to a top producer.  Open some clams!   
90 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2023

Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Rivera Liguria di Ponente DOC (Liguria, Italy) Pigato 2015 ($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Though Pigato is the same as the Vermentino grape, according to DNA analysis, it has a different flavor profile when transformed into wine, presumably because of where it’s planted.  Indeed, Lunae’s 2015 Pigato, though equally enjoyable as their Vermentino, is different.  It’s less floral with more spice.  It has the same wonderful acidity and balance as Luane’s other wines.  Snap it up.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 20, 2016

Back to Top

Lombardy:

Red:

Costaripa, Benaco Bresciano (Lombardy, Italy) “Mazane” 2005 ($21, Empson): From vineyards along the shores of scenic Lake Garda, this red IGT is made with a local grape variety, Marzemino, made famous by Mozart in his opera Don Giovanni, where the title character drinks wine made with it.  The wine is well worth trying off stage too.  Light-bodied, with a characteristic northern Italian zing of acidity and bright cherry fruit flavors, it provides delightful aperitif sipping or will pare nicely with light fare. 88 Paul Lukacs Dec 18, 2007

Monte Rossa, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut Rosé “P.R.” NV ($50):  A very successful Franciacorta Rosé, this shows pleasantly rooty, robust character from the 40% Pinot Noir from which it was crafted.  Yet it never seems heavy or ponderous, thanks to fresh acidity underlying its full-bodied style, as well as energetic, foamy effervescence. 91 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2013

Agit Optima, Oltrepo Pavese DOC (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Nero 2012 ($25): Pinot Nero, aka Pinot Noir, is hardly the first wine that comes to mind when contemplating outstanding Italian reds. Over the years there have been more misses than hits, yet there are those who continue to pursue their passion for Pinot despite the disappointing results to date. Agit Optima is the particular passion of winemaker Jean-Francois Coquard, a transplanted Burgundian who's actually had success with Pinot Nero in Italy. The 2012 won't make anyone forget La Tache, but that's not the point. It's a meaty, ripe, well-rounded expression of Pinot Noir from the Lombardy region around Milan. Showing a strong savory note, a hint of cola and aromas of strawberry and black cherry, this is a Pinot Nero that commands respect at a downright modest price.
88 Robert Whitley Jul 7, 2015

Agit Optima, Oltrepo Pavese DOC (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Nero 2012 ($25, Alma Wines): A very interesting, if very different, expression of Pinot Noir.  From northern Italy, it shows a very different sort of earth mineral character than we see in the wines of Burgundy or California.  It's quite dry, with cherry and a touch of blackberry fruit, and shows a light peppery character, likely from some stem involvement during fermentation.  The finish is chalky and shows a touch of oak char, but it's quite lengthy and interesting.  Pair this where you might use a light bodied Syrah for a different twist.
87 Rich Cook Sep 22, 2015

Travaglino, Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Nero Poggio della Butinera Riserva 2015 ($42):  Italy is not known for Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir) the way it is for Nebbiolo or Sangiovese.  In the relatively cool Oltrepò Pavese region, the grape does well, as Travaglino shows with this 2015 Riserva.  Nicely concentrated, but certainly nowhere near a New World style, it delivers both fruit flavors and savory character, the latter of which is immediately apparent in the nose and carries onto the palate.  Bright acidity (it is Italian, after all) amplifies its charms, while refined tannins provide structure. It even finishes with a delightful hint of bitterness, reinforcing its Old World origins.  Drink now with grilled salmon or even beef, rather than sipping it by itself.    
92 Michael Apstein Oct 27, 2020

Sartori di Verona, Provincia di Pavia IGT (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Noir 2006 ($13, VB Imports): On average these days, inexpensive Pinot Noir is not merely a disappointing wine category, but an outright train wreck.  This wine is a notable exception, and though it is not likely to make many tasters swoon, it is newsworthy on account of being quite tasty, versatile with food, and free of flaws.  The fruit note recalls red cherries, and is fresh but not grapey nor obvious, and the wine is appropriately light but not watery or innocuous.  This is a fine choice for light meats or more substantial fish dishes that might be overwhelmed by the more chunky style of New World Pinot. 84 Michael Franz Sep 9, 2008

Tenuta Scerscé, Rosso di Valtellina DOC (Lombardy, Italy) “Nettare” 2019 ($28, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):   This lively, transparent ruby colored wine is light and savory with red cherry fruit mingling with dried woody herbs.  It is light bodied, linear and bone dry with red cherry, rhubarb fruit, crisp acidity and surprisingly gentle tannins for Nebbiolo.  Serve it with roast chicken or chill it and take it on a picnic.  It hails from the northernmost area of Lombardy, or Lombardia in northern Italy where they call the Nebbiolo grape Chiavennasca.  The winery was established in 2008 by owner Cristina Scarpellini.     
90 Rebecca Murphy Apr 12, 2022

Azienda Agricola Caven, Sassella (Valtellina Superiore, Lombardy, Italy) "La Priora" 1999 ($10, Masciarelli Wine Imports, Weymouth MA): This is a refined, finessed version of Nebbiolo from the Alpine hills of northern Lombardy. High-toned nose of eucalyptus, camphor and mint has base notes of dark berries. Dry and near-full-bodied with high acid and firm, fine grained tannin, and alcohol that's high but balanced within the wine. Medium intense flavors of blackberry and herbs carry long in the mouth. A complex wine, classically Nebbiolo, from a cooler terroir. Can hold for approximately three years. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Sep 1, 2005

Fay, Sforzato di Valtellina (Lombardy, Italy) “Ronco del Picchio” 2005 ($38, Siema):  This is a terrific rendition of Nebbiolo from an extremely high-altitude site that offers the complexity of a Barolo or Barbaresco costing twice as much.  The fruit is relatively rich for a Nebbiolo-based wine, but what is most impressive are the many aromatic and flavor nuances, including notes of dried flowers, mushrooms, woodsmoke and carpaccio.  The tannins are fine in grain and perfectly weighted in relation to the wine’s density, and the acidity is ripe and balanced in proportion to the fruit.  An intriguing wine that will likely get even better over the next few years. 92 Michael Franz Feb 23, 2010

Aldo Rainoldi, Valtellina Superiore (Lombardy, Italy) Nebbiolo “Sassella” 2019 ($43, Banville Wine Merchants):  Fans of the great Lyle Lovett will recall a line from a song that goes, “I love everybody, especially you,” and my twist on that would be, “I love all wines, especially Nebbiolo.”  I’m far from alone in that latter sentiment, as the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco are really riding high at the moment, but all lovers of those wines should be experimenting with other Italian renditions of the variety.  Alto Piemonte renditions are gaining fame rapidly, but the Alpine region of Valtellina has been making wonderful Nebbiolos for many generations, and they absolutely deserve your attention. Being Alpine, they are grown in a cool climate that makes for lean, lithe, stylish renditions of Nebbiolo that feature intriguing aromas and nuanced flavor profiles.  This is a very fine example, with lightly floral topnotes, emerging scents of spices and church incense, fruit notes recalling pie cherries and cranberries, and abundant but fine-grained tannins that provide a well measured tug in the finish to firm up the flavors.  With a playfully simple label on a light but ecologically responsible bottle, this could be mistaken for a simple little wine, but don’t be fooled.  In boxing terms, this is a featherweight that has lots of coiled power to pair up now with poultry or light meats, or to unspool many additional complexities for at least a decade.  By which I mean, not just hang on, but improve markedly.  This is not mere speculation on my part, but a fact proved by the wine being even better when tasted 24 hours after being opened and left uncorked.        
93 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2023

Aldo Rainoldi, Valtellina Superiore (Lombardy, Italy) Nebbiolo “Grumello” 2019 ($43, Banville Wine Merchants):  I’m publishing this review alongside a longer write-up of Aldo Rainoldi’s “Sassella” bottling from this same vintage in the same week’s issue of WRO, but don’t get the misimpression that you’d be trading down to buy this wine because the review is shorter, or because I accorded this one fewer point in my score.  They are both wonderful and wonderfully interesting and packed with potential for further improvement, and the scoring disparity is truly an act of hair-splitting on my part.  Like its stablemate, this is alluringly aromatic and — despite its predictably light color from this grape and region — sneaky in its ability to punch above its weight.  As it unfurls after the cork is pulled, it shows ever more lovely aromatics and additional flavor nuances, and after an hour of aeration, it becomes quite riveting on account of its many intricacies.  I won’t belabor all of them, as the particular intricacies will change as you enjoy the wine after pulling the cork (and in the decade ahead), but I do wish to emphasize that as our planet warms, all wine lovers would be well advised to look farther north in the Northern Hemisphere and to do the opposite south of the Equator.  I’m not in any hurry for Valtellina to become the “new Barbaresco,” but as that is how things are trending, you’d be wise to start looking northward now.        
92 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2023

Nino Negri, Valtellina Superiore (Lombardy, Italy) "Quadrio" 2014 ($19, Frederick Wildman and Sons):  The steeply-sloped vineyards of the of the Nino Negri estate in the Valtellina Superiore have yielded a delicate but richly nuanced red wine in the 2014 vintage.  Made from the Nebbiolo grape (locally called Chiavennasca) with 10% Merlot, the Negri Quadrio red has a lovely bouquet of raspberries, cranberries, dried flowers, anise, leather and spices.  Its pale color belies its rich and multilayered flavors.  Dried cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruits are enhanced by subtleties of potpourri, autumn leaves, anise, vanilla, herbs and spices.  The remarkable combination of delicacy and complexity is evidence of the aristocratic nature of the Nebbiolo grape.  This is a delicious and affordable Nebbiolo that will provide great drinking pleasure for another 5 to 8 years. 
90 Wayne Belding Nov 20, 2018

Rainoldi, Valtellina Superiore DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) "Sassella" Riserva 2013 ($51, Winebow):  Rainoldi is an iconic producer in the Valtellina Superiore – located on the north bank of the Adda River in the Alpine region of Lombardy.  The Valtellina has several subdivisions, but the steeply-sloped vineyards of Sassella have the stoniest soils and rank among the best sites.  The terraced vineyards on this south-facing slope offer a perfect habitat for the Chiavennasca (the local name for Nebbiolo) vines.  Rainold’s 2013 Sassella Riserva is a delicate, pure, nuanced red wine.  It has a lovely bouquet of pure fruits – raspberry, red cherry, cranberry are all evident and supported by hints of dried flowers, earth, leather and spices.  Its flavors are surprisingly rich and intense.  Pure cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruits are enhanced by elements of dried flowers, forest floor, vanilla, herbs and spices.  The remarkable combination of purity, delicacy, complexity and balance make this a wine that you can enjoy now or cellar for another five years.   
93 Wayne Belding Dec 10, 2019

Mamete Prevostini, Valtellina Superiore DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) Sassella San Lorenzo 2016 ($29, Massanois Imports):  Mamete Prevostini is a small producer in the Valtellina Superiore -- part of the Alpine area of Lombardy.  The Valtellina has several subdivisions, but the steeply-sloped vineyards of Sassella rank as one of the best sites.  The San Lorenzo Vineyard is enclosed within the Convent of San Lorenzo.  The south-facing slope at an elevation of 1400 feet offers a perfect habitat for the Nebbiolo vines.  Mamete Prevostini have crafted a delicate but richly nuanced red wine in the 2016 vintage.  It has a lovely bouquet of raspberries, cranberries, dried flowers, anise, leather and spices.  Its pale color belies its rich and multilayered flavors.  Pure cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruits are enhanced by subtleties of potpourri, autumn leaves, anise, vanilla, herbs and spices.  The remarkable combination of delicacy and complexity make this wine a memorable taste treat.  
92 Wayne Belding May 14, 2019

Nino Negri, Valtellina Superiore DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) Nebbiolo Sassella "Le Tense" 2016 ($37, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):   The Adda River flows south from the Alps of Italy’s Lombardy region.  For a brief few miles, however, the river turns westward, offering up a steep, south-facing slope that is the Valtellina Superiore.  Nino Negri is a top producer in the Valtellina Superiore.  The Valtellina has several subdivisions, but the vineyards of Grumello and Sassella rank among the best sites.  The Sassella vineyards offer a perfect habitat for the Nebbiolo vines – locally known as Chiavennasca.  Negri’s 2016 Le Tense Sassella is a multilayered, pure and nuanced red wine.  It has a lovely bouquet of dried raspberry and red cherry fruits plus hints of dried flowers, earth, tea and spices.  Its flavors are surprisingly rich and intense.  Dried raspberry and cherry fruits are underlain by elements of forest floor, tea, herbs and spices.  The remarkable complexity and balance make this a wine that you can enjoy now or cellar for another decade.   
92 Wayne Belding May 5, 2020

Tenuta Scerscé, Valtellina Superiore Riserva (Lombardy, Italy) Nebbiolo Valgella “Cristina Scarpellini” 2018 ($60, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The Adda River flows south from the Alps of Italy’s Lombardy region.  For a brief few miles, however, the river turns westward, offering up a steep, south-facing slope that is the Valtellina Superiore.  Tenuta Scerscé is a new producer in the Valtellina Superiore, established by Cristina Scarpellini in 2008.  The Valtellina has several subdivisions and the vineyards of Valgella rank among the best sites.  The Valgella vineyards offer a perfect habitat for the Nebbiolo vines – locally known as Chiavennasca.  Scerscé’s 2018 Cristina Scarpellini Valtellina Superiore Valgella Riserva is a mouthful to say and to taste.  It is an exciting, multilayered, pure and nuanced red wine.  It has a lovely bouquet of red cherry and raspberry fruits plus hints of dried flowers, earth, tea and spices.  Its flavors are surprisingly rich and intense.  Pure raspberry and cherry fruits are underlain by elements of forest floor, tea, herbs and spices.  The remarkable complexity and balance make this a wine that you can enjoy now or cellar for another decade.          
93 Wayne Belding Apr 4, 2023

Arpepe, Valtellina Superiore Riserva (Lombardy, Italy) Sassella “Stella Retica” 2006 ($45, Tellitalia Imports): The steeply-sloped vineyards of Sassella in the Valtellina Superiore have yielded a delicate but richly nuanced red wine in the 2006 vintage.  Made from the Nebbiolo grape (locally called Chiavennasca), it has a lovely bouquet of raspberries, cranberries, dried flowers, anise, leather and spices.  Its pale color belies its rich and multilayered flavors.  Dried cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruits are enhanced by subtleties of potpourri, autumn leaves, anise, vanilla, herbs and spices.  The remarkable combination of delicacy and complexity make this wine a memorable taste treat.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 26, 2014

Rosé:

Mamete Prevostini, Alpi Retiche IGT (Lombardy, Italy) Nebbiolo “Monrose" 2019 ($22, Massanois):  Producers of Nebbiolo red wines are not often noted for their rosé wines.  The 2019 Monrose Alpi Retiche Rosato from Mamete Prevostini, however, shows that Nebbiolo can be a fine source of rosés as well.  Mamete Prevostini is a small producer in the Valtellina Superiore – part of the Alpine area of Lombardy.  Their Monrose Rosato ages on the grape skins for about 12 hours and extracts a vibrant salmon-pink color.  It offers a delicious combination of juicy fruit and lively spice.  Made from Nebbiolo grapes grown in and near their Valtellina vineyards, the Monrose Rosato bursts with red cherry and cranberry fruits enhanced by floral nuances and hints of coriander spice.  It is pure and lively, with juicy red fruits as well as subtle floral and spice tones.  This is a pure, lively and juicy rosé that is a versatile food companion.  It will offer great tasting pleasure for the warm months ahead.  
90 Wayne Belding Apr 14, 2020

Sparkling:

Albinea Canali, Emilia-Romagna (Lombardy, Italy) Ottocentonero “Sparkling Dry Lambrusco” 2010 ($16, VB Imports):  Long considered to be a fruity red sparkling wine not to be taken seriously, Lambrusco has improved its wine and image in recent years.  Unfortunately this Lambrusco does not do the efforts credit.  Intense purple-ruby in color, the deep aromatics show blackberry notes, while the flavors are grapy and fizzy, supported by high acidity and 11.5% alcohol, leading to an austere finish.  A cautionary note:  It may just have been the bottle I had, but the cork was extremely difficult to pull, even with champagne pliers. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 8, 2011

Ca’ del Bosco, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) "Cuvée Prestige" NV ($37, Santa Margherita USA):  Ca’ del Bosco is one of the leading estates of Franciacorta, consistently producing Franciacorta wines of exceptional quality.  The best Franciacortas are brilliant, elegant and complex sparkling wines.  Ca’ del Bosco’s Brut Cuvée Prestige is made from 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Bianco.  It has a very low dosage and is balanced and refreshing.  The bouquet is pure and vibrant, with lemon and apple fruits interwoven with lovely floral, yeasty and creamy nuances.  The flavors are juicy and pure, with layers of fresh lemon and apple fruits underscored by a deliciously creamy texture.  The finish is long, lively and intriguing.  The beautiful bouquet and layered, complex flavors of the Ca’ del Bosco are benchmarks of the quality and elegance of fine Franciacorta. 
95 Wayne Belding Jun 19, 2018

Ferghettina, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Extra Brut 2009 ($58, Empson USA): Ferghettina consistently produces Franciacorta wines of exceptional quality.  The best Franciacortas are brilliant, elegant and complex sparkling wines.  Ferghettina’s 2009 Extra Brut is made from 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir grown in higher altitude sites.  The bouquet is pure and vibrant, with lemon, peach and green apple fruits interwoven with lovely floral, yeasty and creamy nuances.  The flavors reflect the promise of the nose, with layers of fresh apple, lemon and peach fruits underlain by a deliciously creamy texture.  The finish is long and intriguing.  The beautiful bouquet and layered, complex flavors show just how special fine Franciacorta can be.
95 Wayne Belding Mar 8, 2016

Majolini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Blanc de Noir Brut NV ($56, Banville Wine Merchants):  Production of this wine is limited, with a mere 3,000 bottles produced, and only in the best years.  The wine is rich and complex, with hints of apple and dried apricot.  Some chalky minerality can be sensed in the finish.  The winery is located at the top of a limestone laced hill, and no herbicides or chemical fertilizers are used in the vineyard. 
95 Marguerite Thomas Nov 20, 2018

Barone Pizzini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut Natura 2013 ($40, The Winebow Group):  Barone Pizzini estate is a consistent, top quality Franciacorta producer.  They have created a truly exceptional bubbly once more with the 2013 Brut Natura.  Made without the addition of residual sugar, the Barone Pizzini 2013 Natura is pure, lively, dry and refreshing.  It is a blend of the best Pinot Nero and Chardonnay wines from several vineyards.  The finished wine is complex, exciting and delicious!  The bouquet is pure and vibrant, with lemon, lime and green apple fruits underscored by hints of wildflowers, cream and subtle yeasty tones.  The flavors resonate with juicy lime, lemon and green apple fruits enhanced by the subtle floral and yeasty components.  It has a satisfying, creamy texture that allows the pure flavors to linger well at the dry finish.  
94 Wayne Belding May 15, 2018

Barone Pizzini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut Natura 2011 ($43, Leonardo Locasio): Barone Pizzini is among the top echelon of Franciacorta producers.  They have created a truly exceptional bubbly with the 2011 Brut Natura.  Made without the addition of residual sugar, the Barone Pizzini 2011 Natura is pure, lively, dry and refreshing.  It is a blend of the best Pinot Nero and Chardonnay wines from several vineyards.  The finished wine is complex, exciting and delicious!  The bouquet is pure and vibrant, with lemon, lime and green apple fruits underscored by hints of flowers, cream and fresh-bread yeastiness.  The flavors resonate with juicy lime, lemon and green apple fruits enhanced by the subtle floral and yeasty components.  It has a satisfying, creamy texture that allows the pure flavors to linger well at the finish.
94 Wayne Belding Apr 5, 2016

Bellavista, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) "Alma Gran Cuvée" Brut NV ($34, Monsieur Touton Selection):  The best Franciacortas are brilliant, elegant and complex sparkling wines.  The Bellavista Brut Gran Cuvée Alma displays all that Franciacorta can be.  The grapes for the Alma are chosen from ten different plots in the Franciacorta DOCG, and the blend is Chardonnay (80%), Pinot Nero (19%) Pinot Bianco (1%).  These top sites have a higher elevation, better soil drainage and are cooled by breezes off the nearby Lago d’Iseo and the Alpine foothills.  The bouquet is pure and complex, with lemon, pear and green apple fruits interwoven with subtle, buttery, yeasty and creamy nuances.  The flavors exhibit the promise of the nose, with fresh apple, pear, berry and lemon fruits underlain by the buttery-creamy character of the Chardonnay.  The finish is long and intriguing.  The beautiful bouquet and layered, complex flavors compare favorably with any sparkling wine from anywhere in the world. 
94 Wayne Belding Jun 25, 2019

Ferghettina, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) "Riserva 33 Pas Dosé" 2011 ($60, Empson USA):  The best Franciacortas are brilliant, elegant and complex sparkling wines and Ferghettina is among the best producers in the appellation.  Ferghettina’s 2011 Riserva 33 Pas Dosé is made from 100% Chardonnay grown in higher altitude sites.  The bouquet is pure, clean and vibrant, with lemon, peach and green apple fruits interwoven with lovely floral, creamy and fresh bread nuances.  The flavors are pure and lively, with layers of fresh apple, lemon, lime and peach fruits underscored by a rich and creamy texture.  The finish is long and intriguing.  The quality, finesse and elegance of the Riserva 33 Pas Dosé compares with any wine in its price range from anywhere. 
94 Wayne Belding Oct 22, 2019

Ferghettina, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Pas Dosé Riserva 33” 2007 ($66, Empson USA): The best Franciacortas are brilliant, elegant and complex sparkling wines.  Ferghettinas Pas Dosé Riserva 33 displays all that Franciacorta can be. The bouquet is pure and vibrant, with lemon, lime and green apple fruits interwoven with subtle, buttery, yeasty and creamy nuances.  The flavors exhibit the promise of the nose, with fresh apple, lemon and lime fruits underlain by the buttery-creamy character of the best Chardonnay-based bubblies.  The finish is long and intriguing.  The beautiful bouquet and layered, complex flavors show just how special fine Franciacorta can be.
94 Wayne Belding Feb 10, 2015

Majolini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Pas Dosé 2006 ($36, Franciacorta Imports): Since the sparkling wines from Franciacorta are inherently softer than Champagne because the warmer climate results in riper grapes, the added verve imparted by a Pas Dosé (a.k.a. non dosage) provides welcome structure.  This one is gorgeous. Despite its power and persistence, it’s gentle and graceful on the palate.  Its silky texture is unusual for a non-dosage sparkling wine and makes it all that more appealing.  Though a great choice as a stand-alone celebratory drink, it has enough backbone to stand up to a rich sautéed scallop dish.
94 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2013

Monte Rossa, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut “Salvadek” 2007 ($55):  This is unmistakable as a wine of the very highest quality in all respects.  The aromas are very complex and the flavors are intricate, layered and persistent.  Perhaps most impressive is the texture, which is marked by extremely fine effervescence.  The acid balance to sweetness is, well, perfect, making for a wine that is at once rich and refreshing.  This is the sort of wine that should be keeping the Champenois awake at night. 94 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2013

Ricci Curbastro, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) 2012 ($35, Domenico Valentino): Riccardo Ricci Curbastro has created a truly exceptional bubbly with the 2012 Extra Brut.  Made with a two grams per liter dosage, the 2012 Ricci Curbastro Extra Brut is pure, lively, dry and refreshing.  It is a blend of 50% Pinot Nero and 50% Chardonnay wines from vineyards in Iseo and Ricci Curbastro’s home village of Capriolo.  This exquisitely balanced sparkling wine is pure, complex, exciting and delicious!  The bouquet shows lime, lemon and green apple fruits enhanced by hints of flowers, cream and fresh-bread yeastiness.  The flavors resonate with juicy lime, lemon and green apple fruits enhanced by the subtle floral and yeasty components.  It has a deliciously creamy texture that allows the pure flavors to linger well at the finish.
94 Wayne Belding Aug 1, 2017

Ricci Curbastro, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Extra Brut 2019 ($50):  The best Franciacortas are brilliant, elegant and complex sparkling wines, and Ricci Curbastro is among the best producers in the appellation. They have created a truly exceptional bubbly with the 2019 Extra Brut.  Made in a very dry style (2 grams per liter of residual sugar), the 2019 Ricci Curbastro Extra Brut is pure, lively and refreshing.  It is a blend of 50% Pinot Nero and 50% Chardonnay wines from vines near the deep waters of the Lago d’Iseo.  The lake effect moderates the climate and allows for optimal ripening of the grapes.  This exquisitely balanced sparkling wine is pure, complex and delicious!  The bouquet shows a toasty, yeasty character with fresh citrus and green apple fruits enhanced by hints of flowers, cream and subtle spice.  The flavors resonate with juicy lime, lemon and green apple fruits enhanced by the subtle floral and yeasty components.  Even with its minimal residual sugar, the Ricci Curbastro Extra Brut has a deliciously creamy texture and a long, refreshing and dry finish.            
94 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

Bellavista, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Millesimato Brut 2012 ($45, Vision Wine):  Founded in 1977 Bellavista now owns some 479 acres of vines (almost a tenth of Franciacorta’s vineyard land) and produces about 1.2 million bottles of bubbly a year.  This vivacious Millesimato offers apple and citrus flavors, with traces of appetite whetting bitter almond on the finish.  Thirty percent of the wine was fermented in oak, and it was hand-riddled. 
93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 20, 2018

Berlucchi, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Non-Dosato Riserva “Casa delle Colonne” 2005 ($40):  Strikingly complex and sharply detailed, this is a remarkable wine blended from 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir.  Aged on its yeast lees for a full 72 months, this is nevertheless very bright and fresh, with excellent crispness and drive accentuated by very fine-grained effervescence. 93 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2012

Guido Berlucchi, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “61” Nature 2016 ($36, Volio Imports):  Guido Berlucchi is credited with inadvertently becoming the pioneer of Franciacorta when he assigned a young enologist to enhance his still wines.  However, Franco Ziliani proposed utilizing the grapes for sparkling wine instead.  After numerous unsuccessful attempts at crafting the bubbly, they finally struck gold in 1961.  The Berlucchi Franciacorta ‘61 Nature stands out as one of the most accessible and reasonably priced representations of high-end Méthode Champenoise (“Champagne method”) Italian sparkling wines currently available in the market.  Flavors of crisp green apple, lemon curd, and white peach dance across the palate, underscored by hints of toasted brioche, adding complexity and depth to the wine.  Blended from 70 percent Chardonnay and 30 percent Pinot Noir, it is crisp, refreshing, aromatic, and long on the finish, with a nice touch of saline minerality for pairing it with food.       
93 Miranda Franco Mar 26, 2024

Majolini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut NV ($29, Franciacorta Imports): Franciacorta is Italy’s top locale for sparkling wines and Majolini is one of the area’s star producers.  Soft and creamy, this graceful Brut caresses the palate.  It spent an incredible four years on the yeast before disgorgement, which helps explain its amazing complexity.  This very stylish wine has uncommon sophistication for the price.  Your Thanksgiving guests will thank you.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2013

Ricci Curbastro, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Dossagio Zero “Gualberto” 2004 ($46):  I tasted this from a magnum that was disgorged in 2010.  Although the size of the bottle and the fact that the wine was never transported makes me wonder how representative it is of the stock available in commercial channels around the world, it was so spectacular that I cannot fail to review it.  Blended from 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, it shows lots of dramatic yeasty aromatic complexities but is extremely crisp and fresh on the palate, with flavors of fresh lemons and green apples driven by seemingly electric acidity 93 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2012

Barone Pizzini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Millesimato 2008 ($35):  An excellent wine that offers expressive aromas and satisfying flavors but is nevertheless very fresh, with a lifted, lemony edge and excellent linear energy. 92 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2012

Barone Pizzini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Animante” Brut NV ($30, The Winebow Group):  Barone Pizzini lays claim to having developed the first organic winery in Franciacorta.   This fine Brut, made from 78% Chardonnay, 18% Pinot Noir and 14% Pinot Bianco grapes is a vibrant, slightly floral, delicately yeasty bottle of fizz that charms and invigorates the palate. 
92 Marguerite Thomas Nov 20, 2018

Bellavista, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut “Grande Cuvée” NV ($55, Empson USA):  Stored for a minimum of five years with the spent yeast from its second fermentation, this is definitely a luxury wine, with complexity and price that come with the territory.  Expressive in aroma and authoritative and persistent in flavor, this is a sparkler with real muscle, yet also one with grace, thanks to the balance and integration lent by extended ageing. 92 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2013

Bellavista, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Rosé “Grande Cuvée” 2007 ($65, Empson USA):  Mine may be a minority view these days, but I am not a lover of Rosé sparklers, so this wine had a couple of strikes against it from the get-go.  However, it succeeds brilliantly.  Pale salmon color is quite attractive, and the wine shows subtle aromas and flavors that are layered and enduringly interesting.  Still focused and firm, this will actually improve for a few more years of cellaring, though few who taste it will retain the patience required to test that proposition. 92 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2013

Ca’ del Bosco, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut “Cuvée Prestige” NV ($32, Santa Margherita USA):  The various grapes for Ca’ del Bosco’s Cuvée Prestige were sourced from 135 different vineyards, which may partly explain the appealing complexity of this iconic Franciacorta wine.  Or maybe it was that the wine matured on its lees for 25 months.  In any event, the beguiling sparkler is aromatically seductive, with hints of apple and almond on the palate. A blend of 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero and 10% Pinot Bianco. 
92 Marguerite Thomas Nov 20, 2018

Faccoli, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut Rosé NV ($45, Summit Selections):  The family-run Faccoli estate is small (by Franciacorta standards), with a little more than 12 acres of vines.  This approachable rosé captivates the senses with its fresh red berry flavors and hints of minerality.  Aged on lees for 30 months the wine is both dry and multifaceted. 
92 Marguerite Thomas Nov 20, 2018

Majolini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Millesimato Pas Dose 2006 ($38):  Absolutely dry in character but somehow not austere, this remarkable wine is surpassingly fresh, with notes of Granny Smith apples up front that give way to even fresher lemon notes in the finish.  A model of clarity and refreshment. 92 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2012

Majolini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Electo” Brut Millesimato 2005 ($35):  Crafted from 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, this big, broad, foamy wine shows very expressive fruit but somehow manages to firm up in the finish to seem zesty and fresh.  Very different in profile from the Majolini Pas Dose, this shows the versatility of this house quite impressively. 92 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2012

Majolini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut 2009 ($40, Banville Wine Merchants):  Franciacorta is arguably Italy’s finest sparkling wine.  The Majolini Estate is located in the small village of Ome, in the eastern reaches of the Franciacorta appellation.  The higher altitude vineyard sites in this part of the appellation yield Chardonnay and Pinot Nero grapes that are perfectly balanced for sparkling wine production.  The 2009 Majolini Franciacorta spent over 6 years on the lees and has developed great finesse.  The bouquet is pure and vibrant, with lemon, lime and green apple fruits interwoven with subtle, buttery, yeasty and creamy nuances.  The flavors exhibit the promise of the nose with fresh apple, lemon and lime fruits underlain by the buttery-creamy character of the best Chardonnay-based bubblies.  The finish is long and intriguing.  The beautiful bouquet and layered, complex flavors show just how special fine Franciacorta can be.  
92 Wayne Belding Jul 9, 2019

Ricci Curbastro, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Saten Millesimato, Dossagio Zero NV ($49, Domenico Valentino):  Dry and refreshing, this sprightly sparkler has an edge of sweetness that dances across the palate in tandem with well balanced acidity.   Because of that acidity the wine pairs unexpectedly well with a variety of foods, including tomato-based dishes. 
92 Marguerite Thomas Nov 20, 2018

Ronco Calino, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Non Dosaggio “Nature” 2008 ($32):  Lean, racy and very persistent in flavor, this is an exemplary Franciacorta made from 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir.  Light and lemony at first blush, it shows surprising intensity and drive thanks to energetic acidity that powers through the effervescence and lingers agreeably on the palate. 92 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

Villa Crespia, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Dosaggio Zero “Numero Zero” NV ($28, Vinifera Imports): The winemaking team at Villa Crespia makes fully 20% of its sparkling wines in this ultra-dry style, which they predict will eventually become the leading category for all of Franciacorta. I’m not certain that they’ll be correct in this prediction, but I certainly hope that they are. Made entirely from Chardonnay, this shows an aromatic and flavor profile recalling apple skin and lemon that works very well with this lean, fresh, driving style. Strikingly bright and crisp but neither austere nor sour, this is terrific.
92 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

Barone Pizzini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Extra Brut NV ($28):  Made predominantly from Chardonnay with 5% Pinot Noir added in for good measure, this is broader and deeper in flavor than this producer’s nice Brut, and that it achieves these characteristics with a lower dosage level is particularly impressive, and is attributable to an additional year of ageing (and perhaps also to superior grape material). 91 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2012

Barone Pizzini, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Satèn Millesimato 2008 ($36):  Although I lament the fact that the Satèn category is overshadowing the drier wines of Franciacorta in commercial terms, there’s no disputing the fact that the best wines in this style are extremely appealing.  Fully 35% of the base wine for this cuvée was barrel fermented, and with lower effervescence than typical sparklers, this comes off as a big, creamy, luxurious wine.  Nevertheless, it is balanced and sufficiently fresh to work very well as an aperitif or as a partner for fairly delicate foods. 91 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2012

Bellavista, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Saten” NV ($65, Empson USA):  This is among the best bottlings of Franciacorta Saten available, and a great choice for giving this soft style a fair try.  It stands out thanks to a cleaner, more focused character and better acidic structure than the run of the Saten mill, perhaps because the vineyard sites chosen as sources for this are all at upper elevations.  Excellent. 91 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2013

Berlucchi, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “’61 Brut” NV ($35, Volio Imports):  The best Franciacortas are brilliant, elegant and complex sparkling wines.  The Berlucchi ’61 Brut pay homage to the first release of the “Pinot di Franciacorta” in 1961 by Guido Berlucchi and winemaker Franco Ziliani.  The vineyards of Franciacorta rest upon the end moraine left by a glacier that carved nearby Lago d’Iseo during the last ice age.   These sites have a higher elevation, better soil drainage and are cooled by breezes off the nearby lake and the Alpine foothills.  The bouquet of the ’61 Brut is pure and complex, with lemon, pear and green apple fruits interwoven with subtle yeasty and creamy nuances.  The flavors exhibit the promise of the nose, with fresh apple, pear, berry and lemon fruits underlain by the buttery-creamy character of the Chardonnay.  The finish is long and intriguing.  The beautiful bouquet and layered, complex flavors are a perfect modern expression of the Berlucchi vision of 60 years ago.          
91 Wayne Belding Dec 27, 2022

Ca del Bosco, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Cuvée Prestige” NV ($53, Terlato Wines International): Made with 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 10% Pinot Blanc, this Champagne-inspired sparkler offers delicious proof that northern Italy can make truly world class dry bubbly.  The wine tastes bright (think lemons and other citrus fruits) but also toasty (brioche), and has a wonderfully long finish.  Though priced on a par with top non-vintage Champagnes, the quality in the glass makes that seem justifiable. 91 Paul Lukacs Jan 6, 2009

Monte Rossa, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Blanc de Blancs Brut “P.R.” NV ($60, Domaine Select):  This wine is a blend of younger and older stocks, and consequently shows a soft, creamy side as well as a more energetic undercurrent that provides drive and length.  Aromas and flavors of fresh lemon and baked apple are very alluring, and though the wine is notably sweet, it finished with fine clarity. 91 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2013

Ricci Curbastro, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) NV ($34, Vos Selections):   Franciacorta is a delicious sparkling wine that deserves more attention than it gets.  Ricci Curbastro’s Franciacorta Brut is a truly exceptional bubbly.  Made with all three permitted Franciacorta grapes (Chardonnay 60%, Pinot Bianco 30% and Pinot Nero 10%), the Ricci Curbastro Brut is pure, lively, dry and refreshing.  The fruit is sourced from vineyards near the Lago d’Iseo.  The deep, glacially-carved lake moderates the climate of the Franciacorta vineyards.  The Ricci Curbastro Brut is pure, lively and delicious!  The bouquet shows green apple, lime and lemon fruit nuances underscored by a fresh bread yeastiness that comes from its extended bottle age on its lees.  The Pinot Bianco adds hints of flowers.  The Pinot Nero adds depth and the overall result is delightful.  The flavors show juicy lemon, lime and green apple fruits enhanced by the subtle floral and yeasty components.  It’s a perfect wine to serve at your next festive gathering.  
91 Wayne Belding Dec 24, 2019

Villa Crespia, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut “Riserva dei Consoli” NV ($44, Vinifera Imports): This very well made non-vintage brut shows excellent balance that enables it to seem--at once--impressively deep in flavor but also quite fresh. The yeast accents are subtle and the acidity is energetic, so while the wine shows real power and persistence, it remains refreshing and clean.
91 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

Antica Fratta, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Rosé 2009 ($36, Mascarelli Wine Company): Pierot Bonomi, Antica Fratta’s winemaker, almost apologetically commenting on his Rosé’s pale color notes that rosé “must be drunk with the mouth, not with the eyes.”  No apologies needed.  This powerful blend of Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay delivers delightful fresh strawberry-like flavors accented by a creamy mousse.  Lovely by itself, it’s an excellent choice for smoked or even, grilled, salmon.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 5, 2013

Antica Fratta, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut NV ($26, Mascarelli Wine Company): Despite this wine’s strong personality, its elegance is apparent.  Made entirely from Chardonnay, this Brut has attractive power and yeastiness along with a luxurious suaveness.  Though quite firm and ideal with food, it is still round enough to stand alone as a celebratory drink.  It reminds us that these sparkling wines from Franciacorta often over deliver for their price.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 5, 2013

Bellavista, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Brut “Cuvée” NV ($45):  This is Bellavista’s most widely available wine, and it is well represented by Empson USA, giving American consumers a good chance of actually finding a bottle to try.  It is distinctively rich, with a pleasantly creamy texture, yet it finishes with admirable focus and clarity. 90 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2013

Guido Berlucchi, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Cuvèe ’61” Rosé NV ($22, Terlato Wines International): This gorgeous Rosé sparkling wine, made predominantly from Pinot Noir, has, paradoxically, lovely power and delicacy.  Floral and redolent of strawberries, it has a creamy roundness that makes it irresistible as a stand-alone aperitif.  It’s hard to imagine at more enjoyable Rosé bubbly on the market for the price.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 19, 2013

Guido Berlucchi, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Cuvée ‘61” NV ($19, Terlato Wines International): Franciacorta, a small, relatively obscure (at least in the US) appellation in Northern Italy is a treasure trove for fine sparkling wines.  The Guido Berlucchi firm is credited with inventing the category in 1961, hence the name of the Cuvée.  This mostly (90%) Chardonnay-based sparkler is crisp and nicely structured, but not aggressive. Although its slightly rounder fruitiness makes it a lovely choice as an aperitif, there’s enough backbone that allows it to hold up well next to a creamy risotto.  At $19--and I’ve seen if for less--it’s a great buy.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 15, 2013

Guido Berlucchi, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Rosé Cuvée ‘61” NV ($22, Terlato Wines International): Arturo Ziliani, the winemaker at Guido Berlucchi, describes making the Rosé as “a challenge,” because he says that dealing with Pinot Noir is always a challenge. He clearly slayed that dragon with this Pinot Noir dominant (60%) Rosé Cuvée 61.  Paradoxically both powerful and delicate, its aromatics and strawberry-like fruitiness are hard to resist.  Its roundness makes it ideal as a welcoming glass at a party, while its depth makes it a good choice to accompany smoked salmon.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 15, 2013

Ferghettina, Franciacorta DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) "Riserva 33" Pas Dosè 2010 ($42, Empson USA):  The best Franciacortas are brilliant, elegant and complex sparkling wines and Ferghettina is among the best producers in the appellation.  Ferghettina’s 2010 Riserva 33 Pas Dosé is made from 100% Chardonnay grown in higher altitude sites and finished without any sweetener after disgorging (hence the Italian phrase, "Pas Dosé”).  The bouquet is pure, clean and vibrant, with lemon, peach and green apple fruits interwoven with lovely floral, creamy and crusty bread nuances.  The flavors reflect the promise of the nose, with layers of fresh apple, lemon, lime and peach fruits underscored by a rich and creamy texture.  The finish is long and intriguing.  This is a lovely sparkling that compares with any wine in its price range for quality, finesse and elegance. 
95 Wayne Belding Apr 24, 2018

Antica Fratta, Franciacorta DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) “Essence” Rosé 2018 ($58, Enotec):  Lovers of fine Rosé Champagne should take note of this wine, which is a qualitative competitor to some very famous renditions that have now become painfully expensive (e.g., Billecart-Salmon now averaging $104 in the USA, even if wide available for $80 in big, competitive markets).  Very rich, broad and deep in both flavor and texture, this is a luxurious sparkler by any standard, and in my experience, that’s precisely what buyers of Rosé sparklers are after.  By way of full disclosure, by personal taste leans strongly toward leaner, more mineral Chardonnay-based Blanc de Blancs sparklers and Champagnes, but I only note that to indicate how good this wine is, leaning as it does in the opposite direction.  The fact that the fruit base of this single vintage wine was still on the vine more than five years ago shows that this is a truly high-quality wine.          
93 Michael Franz Nov 28, 2023

Antica Fratta, Franciacorta DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) Brut NV ($46, Enotec):  This house’s Brut is excellent, with fine balance between subtle fruit and delicate yeasty notes from the second fermentation in the bottle (as is required in this high-end Italian sparkling appellation, located in the front range of the Alps).  The acidity seems just a touch low judged against my personal preference, but I can easily see past that to the preferences of the vast majority of tasters who will love this exactly as it is.  The wine’s effervescence is very fine, lending a soft fluffiness to the wine’s texture, but providing plenty of energy in the finish.  Very well made, and undeniably delicious.         
92 Michael Franz Nov 28, 2023

Barone Pizzini, Franciacorta Riserva (Lombardy, Italy) "Bagnadore” 2005 ($40):  Under appellation regulations for Franciacorta, “Riserva” means that a wine has spent a minimum of 5 years on its yeast lees, and these wines are always vintage-dated.  All of the base wine was barrel fermented in this instance, and after disgorging, it was finished with no dosage.  Subtly yeasty, with mineral notes so pronounced that it seems almost saline in character, this is a striking wine of exceptionally high quality.  Tart apple fruit notes are very appealing, and it is very complex due to positive oxidation.  Extremely impressive. 93 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2012

Contadi Castaldi, Franciacorta Rosé (Lombardy, Italy) Brut NV ($22, TMT USA): Here’s a real find--a classy rosé sparkling wine for well under $25.  Lighter than Champagne, but more serious than Prosecco, the delicate strawberry-like flavors dance across the palate.  It’s incredibly fresh, yet not harsh and works perfectly well as a stand-alone aperitif or a fine choice for a first course of prosciutto and melon.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 11, 2013

Fondo Bozzole, Lombardy (Italy) “Foxi” Trebbiano Frizzante NV ($21, SelectioNaturel):  This easy-drinking “Foxi” NV sparkling Trebbiano from Fondo Bozzole is that fresh, vibrant, excellent deal kind of wine you should have on hand by the case.  Citrus, floral and almond notes pleasantly greet the nose.  The palate is full of flavors of lemon, apricot, pear, and fennel with tingling minerality and persistent acidity.  This is produced by brothers Franco and Mario Accorsi on their organic family farm.  They focus on near-lost indigenous varieties of Lambrusco.         
92 Miranda Franco Aug 15, 2023

Ballabio, Vino Spumante di Qualità (Oltrepo Pavese, Lombardy, Italy) "Farfalla" Noir Collection, Zero Dosage NV ($22):  Consumers tend to forget that Italy makes a host of sparkling wines in addition to Prosecco.  And though I have nothing against Prosecco, many of Italy’s other bubblies, such as this one, provide a lot more interest.  This one is positively riveting.  It’s made using Pinot Noir exclusively, and in the Metodo Classico or classic Champagne method involving a secondary fermentation in the bottle.  Despite zero dosage and no malolactic fermentation, techniques that might result in austerity, this bubbly is full of flavor and persistence.  Firm, without being hard, its laser-like focus grabs your attention and holds it.  It’s racy and elegant simultaneously and an unbelievable value.   
94 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2019

White:

Cobue, Lugana DOC (Lombardy, Italy) “Monte Lupo” 2020 ($12):  Lugana, a DOC on the southern shore of Lake Garda in Northern Italy, is a name to remember for white wines.  The primary grape is Turbiana, also known as Trebbiano di Lugana.  Locals prefer Turbiana, the historical name, to dissociate it from the mostly down-market family of varieties and grape strains associated with the Trebbiano name.  And indeed, DNA analysis shows Turbiana to be identical to the very upscale Verdicchio grape.  Lugana is a piece of the Mediterranean in northern Italy, replete with lemon and olive trees.  So, perhaps it’s not surprising that the wines can be reminiscent of Rhône Valley whites with stone fruit character, but with far better, and bracing, acidity.  Cobue buttresses depth with freshness and alluring spice, imbuing the wine with a real presence.  An appealing salinity appears in the finish.  This is not some innocuous Trebbiano, but rather a white with character.  Drink it this summer.       
93 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2022

Beando, Pavia IGT (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2014 ($10): Just what you would want from a summertime white, this Pinot Grigio from the Lombardy district near Milan shows a fresh lime/citrus note with flinty minerality and crisp, mouth-watering acidity. It's 100 percent pinot grigio and 100 percent stainless steel fermented.
88 Robert Whitley Jul 7, 2015

Caposaldo, Provincia di Pavia IGT (Lombardy, Italy) Moscato NV ($15, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  With plenty of charm, this Italian Moscato from Caposaldo is neither overbearingly sweet nor excessively fizzy.  It has nicely fresh floral aromatics plus ripe peach and citrus flavors, which makes it overall a pleasant and festive summery tipple. 
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 23, 2020

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Marche:

Red:

Umani Ronchi, Conero DOCG (Marche, Italy) “Campo San Giorgio”, Riserva 2015 ($71, Vineyard Brands):  Also from the Conero region, Campo San Giorgio is a single-vineyard Rosso Conero Riserva from a very small (2.5 acre) select vineyard that was planted in 1999, with the first vintage made in 2009.  The wine, 100% Montepulciano, is aged in new oak for 12 months, and then transferred to large oak casks. This is Umani Ronchi’s most tannic red wine; it will be at its best with several more years of aging.  Only 5,000 bottles are produced annually.  It should last for decades, and may well merit a higher score with aging.   
94 Ed McCarthy Dec 3, 2019

Umani Ronchi, Conero DOCG (Marche, Italy) “Cùmaro” Riserva 2015 ($37, Vineyard Brands):  Umani Ronchi’s most important red wine, Cúmaro is made in Marche’s Conero region near the sea, in Umani Ronchi’s revitalized winery in the city of Osimo.  Cùmaro, a Rosso Conero DOCG wine, is made from 100% of the Montepulciano grape.  It was first produced in the 1985 vintage, as a complement to Umani Ronchi’s Verdicchio wines.  Umani Ronchi does not release its wines until they are ready to drink; this 2015 Cùmaro, released just this year, is perfect to drink now.  It has some soft tannins, with good acidity.  It is fully ripe, with excellent balance and structure.   It should be fine for drinking for a decade or more.     
94 Ed McCarthy Dec 3, 2019

Umani Ronchi, Conero DOCG (Marche, Italy) “Pelago” 2015 ($48, Vineyard Brands):  From vineyards in the Conero region of Marche, Umani Ronchi’s Pelago is a blended wine.  It seems that almost every winery in central Italy makes at least one wine with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot.  Pelago, first produced in the 1994 vintage, normally has 50% Montepulciano, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10 % Merlot. This 2015 has a 45-45-10% ratio.  Pelago is made only in the better vintages.  The 2015 Pelago is drinking well now, still retaining its Italian heritage in taste.   
92 Ed McCarthy Dec 3, 2019

Luigi Guisti, Lacrima di Morro d’Alba (Marche, Italy) Rubbjano Vineyard 2008 ($30, Premium Brands, Inc.):  This is an unusual and unexpected red wine with rose petal and spicy black pepper aromas, rich, perfumed black cherry and strawberry flavors restrained by tangy acidity and fine-grained tannins.  The grape variety is Lacrima from the town of Morro d’Alba in the Marche region of Italy.  It almost disappeared until a DOC was created in 1985.  Luckily for us, the Guisti family farms this grape seriously to make a seriously delicious wine. 91 Rebecca Murphy Aug 28, 2012

Lucchetti, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Superiore (Marche, Italy) Guardengo 2010 ($20, Admiralty Beverage Company): I admit: I’m totally besotted with wines from this grape and appellation.  It may not be for everyone.  Its aromas are intense with roses, fresh and dried, strawberries and cherries.  In the mouth, the roses persist with ripe cherry, strawberry, blackberry fruit with savory, wood spice notes.  It’s medium bodied with vibrant acidity and ripe tannins.  The fruit character, while intense, does not dominate.  Fruit, acidity, tannins and alcohol strike a lovely balance. Don’t be confused by Alba in the name of the grape.  It is from the Marche region of Italy, not Piedmont. The grape was nearly extinct, but has been revived by the interest of growers like Mario Lucchetti, who started planting the grape in the early 1980s. The Guardengo is a single vineyard wine.

94 Rebecca Murphy Aug 6, 2013

Gelsomoro, Marche Rosso (Italy) 2017 ($26, Williams Corner): The wines of Le Marche warrant attention, despite often flying under the radar.  Marche (pronounced Mar-kay) is a beautiful wine region with miles of untamed coastline.  This rich and elegant blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Lacrima comes from a tiny estate overlooking the Adriatic sea in Morro d’Alba.  Bold aromas of wild berries and summer flowers lead to a juicy palate of cherry, blackberry, plum, and red currants with tobacco and spice accents.  Nicely concentrated, with supple tannins and a long finish.       
90 Miranda Franco Oct 4, 2022

Angelini, Pergola Rosso (Marche, Italy) 2011 ($17, Angelini Wine, Ltd): Pergola Rosso is a virtually unknown, tiny, 100-acre DOC, in the Marche where the similarly unknown Vernaccia Rossa (a.k.a. Aleatico) grape reigns supreme. Perhaps its purported relationship to the Muscat family that explains it’s alluring floral rose petal-like aromas. Bright cherry-like fruit flavors follow. A seductive hint of bitterness in the finish adds intrigue. This lovely mid-weight wine is equally enjoyable after a half hour in the refrigerator because of its lack of tannins. I would have saved this review for warmer weather and recommended the wine as a stunning alternative to a rosé, but it is terrific now when the meal calls for a light red wine.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 1, 2013

Umani Ronchi, Rosso Conero (Marche, Italy) “San Lorenzo” 2019 ($22, Vineyard Brands):  Saint Lawrence – or San Lorenzo, as referred to here – should get busy intervening on behalf of the Montepulciano variety, which can make superb wine, as in this case.  The variety needs intervention against the dual curses of confusion (with the town of Montepulciano where “Vino Nobile” is made in Tuscany, but mostly from Sangiovese) and dilution (from the vast quantities of plonk made from giant clusters grown on pergolas in south-eastern Abruzzo).  But as saints aren’t always so quick to respond to pleas from supplicants, let me say that this is a completely convincing wine with medium-plus body, impactful but not obvious fruit (dark cherries and berries), emerging savory accents of mushrooms, bright but balanced acidity, and just enough tannins to frame the finish without imparting any harshness or astringency.  Umani Ronchi is an absolutely top-shelf producer and Rosso Conero is the finest zone for this variety, and the combination shows in spades in this case.  Odds are you’ll need to find this in a restaurant, as this is clearly a “hand-sell” wine (who would pay this much when you could buy gallons of the stuff from southern Abruzzo?).  But if you try it once, you’ll understand immediately what almost everyone else is missing.         
93 Michael Franz Jul 12, 2022

Garofoli, Rosso Conero (Marche, Italy) "Piancarda" 2019 ($18, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The 2019 Garofoli Piancarda Rosso Conero is a bold and powerful red from Italy’s Adriatic coast.  Grown in limestone-rich white soils known as biancardo, it shows the best characteristics of the Montepulciano grape.  Blackish-ruby in color, it has a rich bouquet of black plum, blackberry and cherry fruits interwoven with floral and herbal nuances.  This concentrated and somewhat rustic expression of fruit elements is backed by subtleties of thyme and rosemary plus baking spice and vanilla tones imparted by barrel age.  The texture is rich and layered, making the Piancarda Rosso Conero a hedonistic tasting experience even in its youth, although it clearly has the capacity to age well.  This is an impressive red from an often overlooked Italian region.      
92 Wayne Belding Oct 18, 2022

Umani Ronchi, Rosso Conero (Marche, Italy) “San Lorenzo” 2009 ($17, Bedford International):  Umani Ronchi describes the San Lorenzo as the little brother of their flagship wine, Cumaro.  And what a good little brother it is.  Made entirely from Montepulciano, it conveys black cherry-like notes and an ever so subtle attractive bitterness in the finish.  Ponderous, but not heavy or overwrought, it’s beautifully balanced.  The tannins are perfectly polished which allow enjoyment now with winter fare.   But don’t try it as a stand-alone aperitif. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012

Tenuta Cocci Grifoni, Rosso Piceno (Marche, Italy) Superiore 2003 ($12, Empson): Light and bright and perfect for pasta dishes with tomato-based sauces, this wine shows nice fruit notes with tinges of both red and black cherries.  The tannins are fine-grained and very nicely tuned to the wine's light body, and a streak of racy acidity lifts the finish without seeming overly tart. 86 Michael Franz Jan 9, 2007

Le Caniette, Rosso Piceno DOC (Marche, Italy) “Morellone” 2008 ($36, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): A blend of Montepulciano (70%) and Sangiovese, Le Caniette’s Morellone has weight and convey an alluring dark cherry fruit quality.   Nicely polished, it retails a hint of charming rusticity in the finish, which frankly, adds to its appeal.  A smokey richness and a chewy texture coupled with its uplifting acidity make it an easy choice for hearty fare as the temperatures plunge this fall.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 17, 2015

Tenuta Cocci Grifoni, Rosso Piceno Superiore (Marche, Italy) "Le Torri" 2003 ($13, Empson): A blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes, this is a soft, fruit-filled red wine with plenty of character. Its fruit flavors resemble cherries and red berries, all enhanced by a dusty, characteristically central Italian note in the finish, and an enticing floral note in the bouquet. Wines from Marche on the Adriatic coast remain great values. If this wine came from Tuscany, it surely would cost two or three times as much. 88 Paul Lukacs Feb 28, 2006

Rosé:

Garofoli, Marche (Italy) Montepulciano “Kómaros" Rosato 2020 ($10, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The Montepulciano grape is considered one of Italy’s best grapes for Rosato wines.  Garofoli’s Rosato boasts an orangish pink color and peach, Meyer lemon aromas with a saline note.  In the mouth, the wine is lean and crisp with peach, citrus flavors that linger on the tongue.  Pair it with  grilled halibut or sushi.  Innkeeper Antonio Garofoli, started making wines in 1871 to serve Christian Pilgrims visiting the Basilica della Santa Casa in the town of Loreto in the Marche region of Italy.  In the early 1900s, his son, Gioacchino, created a winery and today, members of the fourth generation, brothers Carlo and Gianfranco Garofoli and their children run the winery.  They specialize in Trebbiano and Montepulciano grapes with a smaller amount of Sangiovese and Trebbiano Toscano.  The Piancarda vineyard is where they grow their best Montepulciano grapes, some destined for their Rosso Cònero DOC, and others specially grown for the Rosato.    
90 Rebecca Murphy Jun 8, 2021

Garofoli, Marche IGT (Italy) “Kómaros” Rosato 2021 ($14, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Marche is on the Adriatic coast of Italy with Emilia Romagna to the north and Abruzzo to the south.  It is better known for white wines made from the Verdicchio grape, such as Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, but Sangiovese and Montepulciano are important red varieties in the region.  The Garofoli family has been making wines in this area since 1871.  Winemaker Carlo Garofoli shows a deft touch, allowing just the right amount of skin contact to create this pretty coral pink wine made solely of Montepulciano grapes grown for making Rosato.  Delicate flavors of peach, Rainier cherry and a touch of melon are invigorated by bright acidity.  Enjoy by the pool or with a salad of fresh peaches and feta cheese with basil vinaigrette dressing.    
90 Rebecca Murphy Aug 16, 2022

Garofoli, Marche IGT (Italy) “Kòmaros” Rosato 2019 ($13, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  If you haven’t had the pleasure of a rosé wine made from the Montepulciano grape, here is your opportunity.  It is lean and crisp with delectable citrus aromas and flavors of Meyer lemon and grapefruit mingling with red cherry, apple, pear and a touch of melon.  It is quite enjoyable on its own and it a great partner for a summertime meal of a Panzanella salad or ripe melon and prosciutto.  The grapes are grown in the same vineyards as the winery’s Grosso Agontano Cònero DOCG wine, but the vines are managed specifically for the Rosato.  They are harvested earlier to maximize acidity and fruit and carefully handled in the winery to preserve the wine’s delightful fruit flavors and freshness.   
89 Rebecca Murphy Aug 11, 2020

Sparkling:

Velenosi, Vernaccia di Serrapetrone DOCG (Marche, Italy) Secco NV ($23, Vias Imports):  This unusual wine was presented to me by Paul Botamer, who is the sommelier at Fearing’s Restaurant in the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Dallas.  I doubt I would have run across it otherwise, and probably would have dismissed it out of hand.   Thank goodness that Paul just poured it into my glass, because it is now one of my favorites.  It is a from the Marche region of Italy, made from Vernaccia Nera, which to my surprise, is another name for Grenache.  However, it is made like no other Grenache I have known.  It goes through three fermentations.  At harvest, a minimum of 60 percent of the grapes is fermented, while the remaining grapes are dried until after the beginning of the year after harvest.  The dried grapes are crushed and fermented then both batches of juice are combined in a pressurized tank with additional yeast to create the bubbles.  The result is an exuberant mélange of rich, slightly sweet black cherry, plum, strawberry compote,  orange zest fruit and dried roses juxtaposed with frisky acidity, slightly chewy tannins and an inkling of bitterness in the finish.  It is a versatile wine that can stand up intensely flavored foods like those in Dean Fearing’s Southwestern creations, a selection of charcuterie or a Thai curry.    
91 Rebecca Murphy Aug 27, 2019

White:

Umani Ronchi, Caselli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG (Marche, Italy) "Plenio" 2016 ($33, Vineyard Brands):  This is a complex, compelling wine that demands attention and admiration.  The reward for the admirer is the pleasurable experience of a kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors, including Meyer lemon, peach, and pear mingling with notes of toasted coconut, lemon zest, honey, and saline minerals.  Those flavors are plush and round in the mouth, lifted by acidity to encourage another sip.  The long finish brings a touch of bitter almonds.  I have heard that “some call Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi the white Barolo.”  Not sure who they are, but they have a point.  This wine from Umani Ronchi is complex, mouth filling with serious weight, yet it is also elegant, crisp and mouthwatering.  In fact, the producer’s notes state that “the name of the wine, from the Latin Plenum, is intended to suggest the characteristics of fullness, complexity and structure.”      
93 Rebecca Murphy Feb 1, 2022

Umani Ronchi, Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC (Marche, Italy) Verdicchio “CaSal di Serra”, Vecchie Vigne 2017 ($31, Vineyard Brands):  The Verdicchio variety reaches new heights with this wine, made from 50 year-old vines planted in the early 1970s.  Umani Ronchi favors full ripening, not picking the grapes until mid-October.  The resulting wine, 100% Verdicchio, is full and complex, with so much citrus flavor, accompanied by great acidity.  I loved this wine!  It was easily the wine of the tasting for me.  And retailing at $31, it’s a really great value.      
97 Ed McCarthy Dec 3, 2019

Villa Bucci, Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC (Marche, Italy) Verdicchio "Bucci" 2022 ($24, Empson USA):  The Bucci family, farmers in the region from the 18th century, started bottling their wines only in 1983.  They’ve rapidly shown themselves to be of the DOC’s top producers.  Reasons why the wines are formidable is the age of the vines — mostly 40 to 50 years — and their parsimonious yields, which run about half of the quantity allowed by DOC regulations.  The crisp 2022 delivers a mid-weight package of citrus-like flavors intertwined with mineral notes.  Tightly wound at this stage, it opens nicely as it sat in the glass.  I suspect it will develop even more by the summer and next year.  Bucci’s wines develop magnificently with a decade of bottle age, so there’s no rush.       
91 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2024

Umani Ronchi, Castelli di Jesi DOC (Marche, Italy) Verdicchio “Plenio” Riserva 2017 ($31, Vineyard Brands):  Umani Ronchi’s "Plenio" Reserve 100% Verdicchio is aged longer than its other Verdicchio wines, and is a richer wine, more full-bodied and elegant.  I did think it was exceptional, but for me the Vecchie Vigne is the better wine.  Plenio retails at the same price as the “Casal di Serra” Vecchie Vigne.  
94 Ed McCarthy Dec 3, 2019

Villa Bucci, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva DOCG (Marche, Italy) 2013 ($49): A tiny -- just over 350 acres -- DOCG, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva was carved out of the larger Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC in 2010. (They changed the name -- putting the geographic name, Castelli di Jesi, before Verdicchio, the name of the grape -- a year later, in 2011.) The Verdicchio grape, which means the “little green one,” is part of the Trebbiano family and is identical to Trebbiano di Soave.  In the hills around the town of Jesi, this inherently high-acid grape conveys captivating flavors. Villa Bucci, a top producer in the region, transformed the grape into a superb, exciting mid-weight wine that combines a delicate fruitiness and a haunting minerality.  This is a sophisticated wine that will enhance the meal the next time you’re grilling fish.
93 Michael Apstein May 2, 2017

Villa Bucci, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG (Marche, Italy) 2014 ($40):  In 2010, Italian wine regulators created a new DOCG by adding a Riserva designation to the Verdicchio dei Castelli Jesi DOC for wines that have been aged slightly longer and have been made from riper grapes.  To emphasize the importance of place instead of the grape, the official name became Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG.  Though I doubt normal consumers will notice the placement of the grape name in the legal denomination, they should take notice of the Riserva designation because wines carrying that moniker are a cut above those labeled Verdicchio dei Castelli Jesi.  The Verdicchio grape, which means the “little green one,” is part of the Trebbiano family, is identical genetically to Trebbiano di Soave, and is considered to be one of Italy’s great white wine grapes, according to Ian D’Agata, a world’s expert on Italian wine.  Villa Bucci, a top producer in the region, transformed the grape into a superb, exciting mid-weight wine that combines a delicate fruitiness and a haunting minerality.  This is a sophisticated wine that will enhance the meal the next time you’re grilling fish.   
95 Michael Apstein Feb 25, 2020

Boccadigabbia, Colli Maceratesi DOC (Marche, Italy) Ribona “Le Grane” 2016 ($16):  So you’re not familiar with the Colli Maceratesi DOC or the Ribona grape?  Join the club.  Ribona, more commonly known as Maceratino Bianco, takes its name from the city (Macerata) in the western part of the Marche region.  The Colli Maceratesi DOC, comprising only about 600 acres, does not produce a lot of wine, which explains why we in the U.S. don’t see much of it.  Judging from this example, that will change.  It delivers bright stone fruit flavors with a slightly alluring lanolin-like texture.  Not a heavy wine, it finishes with an uplifting and refreshing crispness.  It would be a good choice as an aperitivo-style wine as well as accompaniment to prosciutto or other antipasti. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2017

Fontezoppa, Falerio DOC (Marche, Italy) Pecorino “Citanò" 2018 ($20):  This is a quintessential Pecorino, displaying verve, salinity and pleasant hint of lemon or a grapefruit rind bitterness in the finish.  This lively and energetic wine is great for balancing the pepperoncini that finds its way into the linguine and clam sauce. 
92 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2019

Tenuta Cocci Grifoni, Offida (Marche, Italy) Pecorino "Podere Colle Vecchio" 2004 ($23, Empson): I can't say that I've got much prior experience with wines made from the Pecorino grape, but man, it is off to a seriously good start with me. Fascinating aromatics include notes of baked apples, dried herbs, hay, roasted nuts, smoke and minerals. The flavor notes are nearly as intricate and nuanced, and there's even some textural interplay between fleshy fruit, strong minerality, and zesty acidity. If all that isn't enough for you, it is also sure to flummox the gasbag know-it-all in your tasting group. 91 Michael Franz Feb 28, 2006

Rio Maggio, Offida Pecorino DO (Marche, Italy) Pecorino “Colle Monteverde” 2014 ($18, T. Edward Wines): Pecorino is also a grape, not only a cheese.  And one that is capable of producing lively white wines with refreshing vibrancy, such as this one.  This light wine delivers a precise cutting edge without being aggressive.  It will energize of meal of shellfish or grilled fish.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2016

Azienda Santa Barbara, Verdicchio Castelli Dei Jesi (Marche, Italy) 2018 ($12, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):  From Italy’s Marche region, located a short distance from the Adriatic Sea, comes this crisp, cleansing white wine.  Greenish in color and taste (think green apples for example), and with an undertow of subtle saline minerality, enjoy it as a refreshing aperitif, or serve it with seafood or cheeses.   
92 Marguerite Thomas Apr 7, 2020

Bucci, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Marche, Italy) Classico Superiore 2005 ($18, Empson): A complex Verdicchio, this offers plenty of refreshment value while also proving enduringly interesting.  Fruit notes of white melon are very bright and focused, with alluring mineral notes in the finish that are very classy indeed. 90 Michael Franz Jul 31, 2007

Garofoli, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Marche, Italy) Classico Superiore “Macrina” 2015 ($25, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  A very crisp, refreshing and bright mix of apple and peach fruit, with balanced acidity and a solid core of stony minerality that keeps things together through the mouthwatering finish.  It’s too bad more of this doesn’t make it across the ocean -- it’s a unique product that’s bound to win some fans here. 
90 Rich Cook Aug 14, 2018

Garofoli, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Marche, Italy) Classico Superiore, “Macrina” 2015 ($25, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The name is a mouthful, but so is the wine.  This is an exceptional example of the signature white wine from Italy’s Marche region.  Clean and crisp, with freshness galore, this vintage of Macrina shows notes of apple and pear with impressive length on the finish for this particular grape variety.   
90 Robert Whitley Oct 29, 2019

Tavignano, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Marche, Italy) Classico Superiore 2006 ($12, Marc de Grazia): An exemplary Verdicchio, this wine virtually crackles with freshness, and yet it also shows sufficient substance to hold its own at the table with relatively light fare.  The acidity is very refreshing but not screechy or sour, and the fruit shows admirable depth of flavor. 90 Michael Franz Jul 31, 2007

Marchetti, Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi (Marche, Italy) “Tenuta del Cavaliere” 2022 ($27, August Wine Group):  Located on Italy’s eastern slopes, Verdicchio dei Castelli de Jesi is known for its bright acidity and herbaceous finish.  Marchetti’s Tenuta del Cavaliere is an excellent example with classically crisp acidity and bits of bitter wax and almond notes to compliment its melon, pear, and lime zest fruit.  The wine’s body lends itself to both summer and fall food options.  Pair this wine with seafood or light savory dishes.      
89 Vince Simmon Sep 26, 2023

Tavignano, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Marche, Italy) Classico Superiore 2007 ($12, Marc de Grazia Selection/ Michael Skurnik Wines): Verdicchio from Italy's Marche region is an often unjustly overlooked varietal.  When well-crafted, wines made with it taste of lemons and nuts, with a fairly full body.  They display subtle but unmistakable charm.  Some of the best come from the Castelli di Jesi DOC, and this particular example embodies all of Verdicchio's myriad charms.  If you don't know the grape, it will provide a delicious introduction. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 31, 2009

Bucci, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Marche, Italy) Classico Superiore 2005 ($21, Empson): Verdicchio is named for its faint greenish tinge (verde: green).  It is the leading white wine grape of the Marche, where the wines have been enjoyed for some 2000 years (it is clearly one of the world's oldest wines still being consumed).  The Bucci interpretation has complex perfumy aromas, with a hint of almond underlying the fruity flavors.  A good companion for seafood and light chicken dishes. 88 Marguerite Thomas Apr 3, 2007

Sartarelli, Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi Classico (Marche, Italy) 2016 ($16, Tenth Harvest):  With greenish-yellow hues, this oak-free, dry white wine is fresh and soft.  It has delicate peach flavors and subtle hints of honey.  Chalky minerality and palate-cleansing acidity on the finish are also part of this wine’s appeal.  Castelli de Jesi is a white wine DOC in central Italy’s Marche region. 
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 6, 2018

Le Vaglie, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico (Marche, Italy) 2006 ($17, Michael Downey Selections): This terrific Verdicchio is light and lacy but nevertheless full of character and flavor.  Very delicate fruit notes of white melons and apricots are accented with lovely floral aromas and a nice mineral edge in the finish.  Very well integrated and balanced, this is an excellent aperitif or a fine partner for light summer dishes. 88 Michael Franz Jul 10, 2007

San Lorenzo, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico (Marche, Italy) “Vigna di Gino” 2008 ($14, Vias Imports):  This is undeniably pleasant if not as mind-blowing as San Lorenzo’s “Vigna delle Oche” bottling of Verdicchio, and given that it is actually the fuller of the two wines but barely half as expensive as its stablemate, it definitely deserves your attention.  Very ripe fruit is effectively balanced by acidity that lends cut and definition in the finish.  Pair with moderately robust finfish dishes or seafood pasta.
88 Michael Franz Sep 29, 2009

Garofoli, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico DOC (Marche, Italy) “Serra del Conte” 2020 ($13, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Pale yellow color and aromas of grapefruit and Meyer lemon, floral notes.  It is round and juicy in the mouth with flavors of pears, lemons and citrus peel beautifully balanced with crisp acidity, and would be perfect with a roast turkey sandwich.  Serra del Conte is the name of the commune where the grapes are grown.  It is made from the Verdicchio grape, which Ian D’Agata argues is “Italy’s greatest native white grape” in his Native Wine Grapes of Italy.  While the Grofoli Winery was established in 1901, family members had been producing and selling wines since the 1870s.  Today the winery is in the hands of brothers Gianfranco and Carlo.    
92 Rebecca Murphy Nov 16, 2021

CaselFarneto, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) Verdicchio “Fontevecchia” 2017 ($15, Enotec Imports):  Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is one of Italy’s great white wines that flies under most peoples’ radar.  Italian wine regulators awarded the top category, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva, DOCG status, showing the potential of the region.  But even the wines that carry just the DOC, especially those labeled Classico, which indicates that the grapes were grown in the central — best — area, are worth trying to see the potential of the Verdicchio grape in this area.  (Superiore means the grapes were a bit riper, imparting slightly more alcohol to the wine.)  CaselFarneto’s 2017 has excellent weight without being overdone, which means it holds up nicely with flavorful fare, such as a tomato-based seafood pasta.  Clean and fresh, its mineral or stony side shines, and balances its density.  Plus, it’s a bargain.        
93 Michael Apstein Mar 23, 2021

Casalfarneto, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) “Fontevecchia” 2020 ($17, Enotec Imports):  Getting all the verbiage straight in this wine’s appellation of origin may be difficult, but enjoying the wine could not be easier.  It hits the sweet spot precisely situated between richness and freshness, with notable palate weight and flavor impact but also excellent acidity.  Indeed, so refreshing is the wine that I was quite surprised to see that the vintage I was tasting was 2020 rather than 2021.  But that’s good news, showing the quality of the fruit as well as the continuing viability of the wine.  The fruit notes recall golden apples and autumn pears, graced with a spritz of lemon juice and wonderfully accented with mineral notes that ride alongside the fruit through the persistent finish.  Ultra-versatile and completely delicious.      
92 Michael Franz Aug 9, 2022

Sartarelli, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) “Tralivio” 2015 ($18): It’s easy to understand why Sartarelli, one of the region’s top producers, calls the wine Tralivio, which means around the olive trees, instead of using the tongue-twisting name of the DOC.  Wines made from Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi are undergoing a renaissance as producers realize that the focus should be on quality over quantity.  Indeed, the Verdicchio grape has the potential to make wines that evolve with bottle age as well as a wine, such as this one, that is enticing to drink now. Its density comes from the grape because Sartarelli opts to avoid oak during vinification and aging.   Weighty, yet not over ripe, brilliant acidity keeps you coming back for another sip.  This wine will make you rethink your idea of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 13, 2017