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THIS ISSUE'S REVIEWS

April 16, 2024 Issue

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FRANCE

Burgundy:

White:

Domaine de La Garenne, Mâcon Azé (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($33):  It is worth repeating — the Mâconnais is the place to fine excellent white wines, especially from the 2022 vintage, at reasonable prices.  As more and more growers discover the beauty of this part of Burgundy, we will see wines, like this one, that provide greater specificity regarding the origin of the grapes.  Azé, a small village in the northern part of the Mâconnais, is known for producing distinctive wines, which is why you will find its name on the label as opposed to the generic, Mâcon-Villages.  Domaine de La Garenne’s stylish 2022 combines the allure of white flowers with a subtle minerality, freshness and verve.  It is a delight.      
92 Michael Apstein Apr 16, 2024

Domaine de La Garenne, Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($33):  Comparing this wine, from the southern part of the Mâconnais, to Domaine de La Garenne’s Mâcon-Azé, which is located in the north of the appellation, shows the fabulous diversity within the Mâconnais.  The bolder Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly delivers more weight and more stoniness without losing any freshness.  Since the winemaking is identical their differences are due, presumably, to the soil, exposure, and climate — some of the elements of terroir.  To me, they are equally enjoyable, just different.         
92 Michael Apstein Apr 16, 2024

Domaine de La Garenne, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($50):  Tasting this Pouilly-Fuissé side-by-side with Domaine de La Garenne’s fine Mâcon wines, you easily see the differences between those two appellations, even though they abut one another in places.  Someone clearly knew where to draw the lines.  Always a popular Chardonnay-based wine in the U.S., Pouilly-Fuissé has justifiably gained status with the delineation of Premier Cru vineyards.  It’s good for the growers there because they get the accolades they deserve.  Less good for us consumers who face price increases even with the Pouilly-Fuissé village wines, let alone the Premier Cru.  Still, village Pouilly-Fuissé, especially the 2022s, from top producers, like Domaine de la Garenne, deliver lots of satisfaction for the price.  This impeccably balanced one combines a touch of creaminess with underlying minerality.  It is a fine choice for grilled swordfish this summer.             
92 Michael Apstein Apr 16, 2024

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Loire Valley:

White:

Antoine et Philippe Delaunay, Chateau Thébaud, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Nord-Ouest” 2014 ($30, Wine Traditions Ltd):  In France’s Loire Valley, the Appellation of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine produces some astounding, under-represented white wines.   The appellation has been recognized since 1936 but it wasn’t until 2011 that the sub-appellations of Cru Communaux received recognition.  Antoine Delaunay is going even further, picking specific parcels with the Cru Communaux of Chateau Thébeaud to highlight the region’s possibilities.  His Nord-Ouest is truly an elevated expression of the region with suggestions of yogurt, toasted pineapple, lychee, limestone minerality, and yellow apple.  Antoine uses glass lined subterranean tanks to age his wine “sur lie” for 60 months.  The subterranean earth naturally cools the wine during fermentation and elevage while the glass provides a clean and neutral environment, minimizing the indeed for SO2.  This is an excellent bottle to enjoy on a patio with newly-arriving spring temperatures.  
93 Vince Simmon Apr 16, 2024

Antoine et Philippe Delaunay, Chateau Thébaud, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Sud-Est” 2015 ($32, Wine Traditions Ltd):  Antoine Delaunay sources this Chateau-Thébaud from his family's 10-acres of vineyards spread throughout the Cru Communaux, a sub-region of Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine.  Sud-Est is bone dry, light-bodied, and fully flavored wine showing bright minerality, lemonade, and tropical lychee and pineapple notes.  This is an easy-to-enjoy white for tasters at any wine experience level. Winemaker Antoine Delaunay, takes a natural approach to winemaking using all native yeast and only adding SO2 at bottling to ensure preservation from the winery to your glass.  Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine has been a personal favorite and it is a great pleasure to see the distinctive styles being released by smaller, quality-conscious producers.    
92 Vince Simmon Apr 16, 2024

Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Demoiselle” 2021 ($75, Palomar Beverage Company):  La Demoiselle translated from French is “young lady.”  From the In Mellot family, we have a “feisty young lady” grown in clay-flint soil.  It has a pale yellow color and forward, lemony, chalky aromas.  The winegrower clearly knows how to extract excellent quality from the soils in the various sites where the vines are planted.  This is round in the mouth with concentrated lemon-lime flavor and very crisp acidity.  At the table, it can easily handle a veal piccata, grilled pork chops or grilled asparagus.        
96 Rebecca Murphy Apr 16, 2024

Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Romains” 2021 ($66, Palomar Beverage Company): Les Romains is aptly named, since it refers to an ancient Roman road that crossed what is now a vineyard on flint and limestone soil.  The wine has concentrated tropical fruit aromas and flavors mingling with the more traditional lemon, grapefruit, and green apple with subtle flinty, chalky notes.  In 2013, in the Mellot family celebrated its 500th anniversary and nineteen generations of winegrowers.       
95 Rebecca Murphy Apr 16, 2024

Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Moussiere” 2022 ($41, Palomar Beverage Company):  The white wines from Alphonse Mellot speak clearly of the soil from which they come.  La Moussiere is their flagship vineyard with over thirty hectares of marl and limestone soil.  This single variety Sauvignon Blanc has a very pale, yellow color, with subtle citrus aromas and flavors with dusty, chalky mineral notes.  It is surprisingly delicate and elegant in the mouth.         
95 Rebecca Murphy Apr 16, 2024

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