GREECE

Red:

Karelas, Achaia (Greece) 'Pelagos Red' 2011 ($17): The Pelagos Red is a blend of the international grape variety Merlot and the indigenous grape Mavrodaphne, an intriguing combination that delivers complex red- and blue-fruit aromas. The nose shows a hint of spice and earth, and on the palate that wine packs a bit of a tannic wallop that should subside and smooth out over the next couple of years. 94 Robert Whitley Jun 17, 2014

Alpha Estate, Amyndeon (Greece) Xinomavro "Hedgehog" 2009 ($20, Diamond Wine Importers): A very interesting, complex wine, with a tangy, smoked-orange peel top note, plenty of Alpha's characteristic precise red fruit, and a mushroomy low note. Fine tannins give it good umami. It's a pleasure both intellectually and viscerally, and with a low pH of 3.37, you can expect it to develop for some time to come. 13.5% alcohol.
94 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Alpha Estate, Amyndeon (Greece) Xinomavro Vielles Vignes Reserve 2008 ($38, Diamond Wine Importers): Made from 87-year-old vines at elevation over 600 meters, this wine has an earthy, mushroomy aroma reminiscent of good Pinot Noir. There's plenty of freshness in the mouthfeel and the minerality is like a line of white stones. It's mushroom- and mineral-driven, yet has an undercurrent of ripe red fruit that comes out on the finish. 13.5% alcohol.
93 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Alpha Estate, Amyndeon (Greece) Xinomavro Vielles Vignes Reserve 2009 ($38, Diamond Wine Importers): The minerality is more intense in this wine than the '08: It's like drinking plum juice squeezed from a stone. There is more tannin than expected on the finish, but it just blends into the rockiness. Made from 88-year-old vines grown at an elevation over 600 meters. 13.5% alcohol.
92 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Alpha Estate, Amyndeon PDO (Greece) Xinomavro Hedgehog Vineyard 2019 ($23, Diamond Wine Importers):  Alpha Estate was created by winemaker Angelos Iatridis, and viticulturist Makis Mavridis.  They farm 140 hectares (345.9 acres) divided into 92 separate blocks, which they vinify separately in their state of the art winery.  The Xinomavro (pronounced, zee No mahv ROW) vineyards are in northwestern Macedonia where the climate is continental with warm summers and cold winters.  The grapes are fermented in stainless steel and spend several months in contact with the lees, aged 12 months in oak and 12 months in the bottle before release.  It is an easy drinking, medium bodied wine with light ruby color and aromas and vibrant flavors of cherry, strawberry, pomegranate.  It is beautifully balanced with crisp acid and smooth tannins, perfect for roasted pork tenderloin.       
93 Rebecca Murphy Feb 14, 2023

Alpha Estate, Amyndeon PDO (Macedonia, Greece) Xinomavro Hedgehog Vineyard 2020 ($27, Diamond Wine Importers):  Fortunately, most people don’t translate the grape’s name, Xinomavro, (literally, sour back) before buying the wine.  It is considered by many to be Greece’s most important and best red grape for red wine.  Frequently described as powerful with significant tannins, the mid-weight and poised one from Alpha Estate, an organic producer, does not fit that profile.  Rather, their Xinomavro from the Hedgehog Vineyard combines red fruit notes with engaging savory ones.  Neither particularly fruity, nor tannic, its multi-layered complexity is captivating.  A touch of bitterness in the finish reminds us that it’s, thankfully, not an opulent wine, but rather, a perfect foil to food.  It is another red best put out on the table to balance the richness of lamb rather than drinking it by itself before dinner.       
93 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2024

Samartzis Estate, Central Greece PGI (Greece) Merlot & Mouhtaro “M” Barrique 2019 ($30, Dionysos Imports):  Samartzis Estate focuses on quality and expressive wines and their “M” Barrique hits both marks.  Mouhtaro is a rare variety local to the Askri region of Greece. The winery's choice to blend it with Merlot and barrel age the wine creates a well-rounded body.  Chocolate covered red fruits, tobacco, and floral notes provide a really sweet sensation to the wine whilst the winemaking limits the actual residual sugar, thus presenting a dry wine.  The result is a wine approachable to the American palate and, better yet, ready to drink without further need of aging.       
89 Vince Simmon Sep 12, 2023

Porto Carras, Côtes de Meliton (Greece) Limnio 2011 ($15, Athenee Imports): Limnio is an indigenous Greek grape varieties that offers a delicious twist of aromas and flavors.  Porto Carras is a top estate on the Sithonia Peninsula of northern Greece.  Their 2011 Limnio is a light-bodied red with a lovely aroma of ripe black cherries, plums and violets and subtle spices.  The flavors are pure and lively, with the juicy cherry fruit of the grape backed by hints of cranberry, dried flowers and allspice.  Relatively low in tannin, it’s a perfect red for summertime enjoyment.
89 Wayne Belding Jul 15, 2014

Manousakis Winery, Crete (Greece) “Nostos Blend” 2015 ($35, Dionysos Imports):  The Manousakis Winery cultivates grapes of the Rhône varieties, like this Nostos blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre.  The Grenache contributes raspberry, strawberry, and cherry flavors, while Syrah lends to the vibrant color, tannic lift, and black pepper.  The Mourvèdre adds richness to the palate and lengthens the finish. It’s polished, luxurious, and layered with silky, high-toned fruit that dances across your palate.  Another reason to love Manousakis Winery, beyond their charming wines, is that they donate part of their proceeds to a local school that helps children with disabilities.       
92 Miranda Franco Feb 15, 2022

Hatzidakis, Cyclades (Aegean Islands, Greece) Mavrotragano 2020 ($66, T. Elenteny Imports):  Mavrotragano is a rare Greek red grape.  It is grown mostly on the Aegean Island of Santorini where it comprises only about four percent of the grapes grown.  The Hatzidakis Mavrotragano is a deeply-flavored wine that shows a beautiful balance of fruit, oak and spice.  The bouquet is redolent of ripe blackberries and raspberries underlain by hints of black pepper and sun-dried herbs plus subtle vanilla and baking spice tones.  The flavors are forward and attractive, with layers of raspberry and blackberry fruits given added interest by elements of wild herbs, smoke and brown spice.  It will age well for another 5 to 8 years and beyond.  It’s a rare treat made in very small quantities.       
93 Wayne Belding Jan 9, 2024

Wine Art Estate, Drama (Macedonia, Greece) Nebbiolo “Nebbio” 2012 ($35, Dionysos Imports):   Nebbiolo, the demanding Italian variety, has acclimated perfectly in Macedonia and is the basis for the 2012 Wine Art Estate Nebbio. This 100 percent Nebbiolo is bright and vibrant with a superb interplay between the fruit and non-fruit elements of dried red cherry, sun-dried tomatoes, herbs, and olives.  Energetic acidity gives freshness to the wine.  This is an excellent expression of the variety, crafted far away from its ancestral home.       
93 Miranda Franco Sep 7, 2021

Oenogenesis, Drama PGI (Macedonia, Greece) “En Oeno” Dry Red Wine 2010 ($20, Eklektikon LLC):  Oenogenesis launched its winemaking in Drama in East Macedonia in 2006, a region that has gained significant recognition in only a few decades due to its high-quality wines.  The 2010 Oenogenesis En Oeno Dry Red Wine references the Ancient Greek proverb “En Oeno Alethea,” which means “In wine, there is truth.”  En Oeno is a straightforward dry red made with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc.  It’s an auspicious blend, with the graceful Merlot combining well with the more tannic Cabernet.  The Cabernet Franc gives a slightly herbal touch that mingles with generous dark fruit and oak spice undertones that culminate in a prolonged finish.      
90 Miranda Franco Aug 1, 2023

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Macedonia, Greece) 'Avaton' 2002 ($40, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Like Italy, Greece has hundreds of indigenous varieties that are only now being given a chance to show what they can do when given the benefit of modern viticulture and winemaking, and this completely convincing wine suggests that some of them could be real gems. Made from 40 percent Limnio, 40 percent Mavrotragne and 20 percent Mavroudi, this proprietary bottling is marked by complex aromas of saddle leather and fresh meat, with dark berry fruit and interesting accents of smoke and spices. The tannins are as fine in grain as a great Tuscan Sangiovese, and the balance of structural elements to fruit could hardly be improved. Great on its own right now, and even better with moderately robust foods. 92 Michael Franz May 16, 2006

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Macedonia, Greece) "Avaton" 2002 ($40, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This would be a remarkable wine from any vintage, but coming from a very tough growing season in 2002, it borders on the miraculous. Blended from 40% Limnia (a grape noted by Aristotle in the 4th century B.C.), 40% Mavrotragno and 20% Mavroudi, it shows lots of subtle aromatic nuances of mushrooms, roasted meats, saddle leather and smoke on a core of dark berry fruit. Ultra fine-grained tannins are perfectly tuned to the weight of the fruit, and the whole package is completely convincing. 92 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Greece) "Avaton" 2002 ($46, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This features great fruit recalling black cherries and dark berries, and it is nicely married to smoke, spice and mineral notes. Medium- to full-bodied, is shows lots of flavor impact and length, but very soft texture and remarkably polished tannins. Lovely! 90 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2005

Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Greece) Syrah 2002 ($25, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): The world is now basically packed with Syrah, and few would fault you for balking at one that costs $25 from not-quite-established Greece. But I would. This shows an interesting blend of red and black fruit notes (with black in the lead), along with accents of lead pencil and tobacco leaf. Full-bodied but not hard or heavy or obvious, this is a wine of real sophistication that can easily hold its own with its varietal counterparts from around the world. 90 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2005

Alpha Estate, Florina (Greece) Merlot "Alpha One" 2008 ($30, Diamond Wine Importers): Who expects a Merlot to be the best wine at a Greek winery? But everything broke right for these grapes in 2008. Beware vintage variation: Alpha One is a brand that owner/winemaker Angelos Iatridis uses to spotlight whatever grapes he likes best each vintage. The 2007, a blend of Montepulciano and Negroamaro, was interesting, but very different and not at this level. And who knows what the 2009 will be: Iatridis was talking about Barbera. Perhaps in the future the Merlot will get its own brand; this bottling shows its potential. It's most like a great Tuscan Merlot, with good freshness, dark red fruit, and none of the strong tannins you'd expect from similar taste characteristics in Bordeaux. It's approachable, food-friendly, lipsmacking, yummy, and at a lunch with a lot of very good bottles open, I kept coming back to this one, which is really the highest praise I can give. 14.5% alcohol.
95 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Alpha Estate, Florina (Greece) Syrah "Turtles" 2009 ($20, Diamond Wine Importers): There's a northern Rhône feel to the aroma, with earth and violet notes mingled with a slight animal note. In the mouth, though, it's all about the precise ripe red plum fruit. It would be interesting to spend some time with this wine to see if the aroma and flavor stay so disconnected. 14% alcohol.
90 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Alpha Estate, Florina (Greece) "Axia" 2009 ($18, Diamond Wine Importers): The entry-level red, a 50-50 blend of Xinomavro and Syrah, has Alpha Estate's characteristic precise, ripe, red fruit, with a minerally, rocky feel in the attack. The tannins are well-managed; it's 14% alcohol. It's a fine, affordable introduction to the brand.
88 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Alpha Estate, Florina (Greece) Tannat "Utopia" 2009 ($38, Diamond Wine Importers): Owner/winemaker Angelos Iatridis worked in Madiran before returning to his native Greece, and that's where he got the clones for this wine. I'm typing this note after returning from Uruguay, where Tannat is the best variety, and I wonder if he should have taken his clones from there instead. This is an earthy wine with a big body, big tannins, just big. I can see why Iatridis is interested in Tannat here: The aroma of ripe dark plum, cigar and fresh flowers is interesting. But it doesn't have the minerality on the palate of Alpha's best wines. Perhaps more time will make it more interesting, but I doubt it will ever reach the heights here that Xinomavro does. 14.5% alcohol.
85 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Alpha Estate, Florina (Greece) Pinot Noir "Tortoise Nest" 2009 ($38, Diamond Wine Importers): If anywhere in Greece could make good Pinot, you'd think it would be in Amyndeon, which winemaker Angelos Iatridis says is the coolest place in the country. The vineyard is at an elevation of more than 600 meters. The soil is sandy clay, not the world's most exciting for Pinot, but with excellent drainage, not awful either. On the good side, this wine has clean, ripe cherry fruit. But there's not much complexity, and the finish is a little too tannic for the wine to be enjoyable in the near term. Considering how well Xinomavro, Merlot and Syrah do in the same vineyard, you have to wonder if Pinot is the best choice. 14% alcohol.
84 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Alpha Estate, Florina (Greece) Red Blend 2008 ($30, Diamond Wine Importers): This blend of 60% Syrah with 20% each of Xinomavro and Merlot is very tannic and not as pleasant as the pure versions of any of the three varieties. 14% alcohol.
83 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Mercouri Estate, Ilia (Peloponnese, Greece) "Antares" 2003 ($15, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): A 50/50 blend of Avgoustiatis and Mourvedre, this is medium-bodied but packed with intense fruit, tannin and smoky oak. The tannins are fine in grain but abundant and a bit dry, so this will need time to integrate and soften. 86 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Ktima Kir-Yianni, Imathia (Macedonia, Greece) "Yianakohori" 2003 ($18, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Xynomavro, this medium-bodied reds shows very nice fruit with notes of plums and black cherries, along with lots of fine-grained tannin and nice aromatic accents of leather and mushrooms. 89 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Biblia Chora Estate, Kavala (Macedonia, Greece) "Areti" 2002 ($31, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This is a very impressive and serious rendition of Agiorghitiko, a potentially great grape variety typically sourced from the northern Peloponnesian region of Nemea. This rendition hails from Macedonia, and though it is currently too light and simple to really warrant its price, it is the best Agiorghitiko on the market that I have tasted recently, and hence a point of reference for anyone sufficiently informed and intelligent to be seeking knowledge of Greek wines. 87 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2005

Domaine Katsaros, Krania (Olympus, Greece) Merlot 2007 ($53, Cava Spiliadis USA):  Although 2007 is the current vintage, this wine still feels exuberantly youthful, full of sharp edges and an overly rambunctious personality.  The overt flavor of new oak barrels is somewhat aggressive, although one can still sense some nice, spicy Merlot nuances waiting to shine through.  And once the new barrel elements settle down the mature Merlot should be immensely satisfying. 89 Marguerite Thomas Aug 7, 2012

Alpha Estate, Macedonia (Greece) Xinomavro 2003 ($26, Diamond Importers): No Greek winery has impressed me more than the forward-thinking Alpha Estate, with its brilliant team of co-owner/oenologist Angelos Iatridis and viticulturist Dr. Stephanos Koundouras. Extremely low yields is the key to their intensely concentrated red wines. This 2003, 100 percent Xinomavro, is a killer wine, deep purple in color, rich, very concentrated, and a great example of Xinomavro at its best. It can age for 10 to 15 years. 94 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Katogi & Strofilia, Macedonia (Greece) Xinomavro 2003 ($22, Wines We Are Importers): A 100 percent Xinomavro from Naouussa, the 2003 is full-bodied and powerful, with soft tannins. An outstanding red wine. Enjoy it with game or roasts. 94 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Kir Yianni Estate, Macedonia (Greece) "Ramnista" 2000 ($20, T. Edward Wines): The 2000 Ramnista, 100 percent Xinomavro, a full-bodied, intense, austere red, has aromas and flavors of leather, olives and spices. It could use a few more years of aging. (A '95 Ramnista that I tasted was perfectly mature. 93 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Kir Yianni Estate, Macedonia (Greece) "Kir Yianni Estate" 2003 ($20, T. Edward Wines): Yiannis Boutaris left the huge Boutari Estates winery in his brother Konstantinos' capable hands and founded his own small-estate winery in Naoussa, which he runs with his two sons. The emphasis is on red wines here, with the indigenous Xinomavro, Merlot, and Syrah playing key roles. The 2003 Kir Yianni Estate is an excellent dry, medium-bodied, harmonious red wine, 80 percent Xinomavro and 20 percent Merlot, with soft tannins, plus aromas and flavors of red plums. It has great length on the palate. 92 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Boutari Estates, Macedonia (Greece) "Filiria" 2002 ($28, Paterno Imports): Boutari, one of Greece's largest wineries, and probably the best-known Greek wine brand in the U.S., has six wine estates throughout Greece. The 2002 Fileria is a blend of two indigenous red varieties, 50 percent Xinomavro and 50 percent Negoska, both grown organically in the Goumenissa district of Macedonia. It's a rich, tannic, ample wine, well-suited for a steak dinner. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Tsantalis, Macedonia (Greece) Moschomavro 2004 ($10, Fantis Imports): What a delightful, inexpensive red wine! Moschomavro is one of the many rare varieties only found in Greece. It is very aromatic and floral, almost like a red Muscat. The '04 Moschomavro, just 12 percent alcohol, is very fragrant, with black fruit flavors and smooth tannins. I love it; it's simply delicious. 89 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Tsantalis Vineyards and Wineries, Mount Athos PGI (Macedonia, Greece) Xinomavro-Grenache-Limnio “Agioritiko Abaton” 2015 ($25):  A little label interpretation is order for this terrific red wine.  Mount Athos, which means Holy Mountain, sits on one of finger-like peninsulas just east of Thessaloniki and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Tsantalis is considered to be a superb producer in this region.  Agioritiko means something that originates from Mount Athos and is confusing, or at least was to me, on this label because it could be mistaken for the name of a well-known Greek grape, Agiorgitiko, which is not in the blend of grapes in this wine.  Abaton means “untrodden” in Greek and signifies the untrodden nature of Mount Athos, according to Tsantalis’ website.  Now onto the wine itself.  The blend is a wonderfully balanced combination of two Greek grapes, Xinomavro (50%) and Limnio (20%), with Grenache that conveys a harmonious mixture of juiciness, earthy and herbal notes.   Its “not just fruit” character makes this bright and lively wine very appealing and its suave texture makes it a delight to drink now.  Though not a heavy wine, it has plenty of oomph and despite the inclusion of Grenache, its stated alcohol is a mere 13%.  It’s a great choice with roasted lamb or other meats from the grill.   
92 Michael Apstein Jan 7, 2020

Kir Yianni, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) Xynomavro “Ramnista” 2010 ($24, Diamond Wine Importers): Xynomavro is the aristocratic grape of Naoussa, in the Macedonia region of northern Greece.  It is made in a variety of styles, but few producers coax more elegance and complexity out of Xynomavro than the Kir Yianni estate.  Their 2010 Ramnista Xynomavro is a lovely red.  It has a forward bouquet of strawberry, cherry, plum, and raspberry fruits underscored by hints of violets, vanilla, mushroom, olive, sandalwood and spices.  Rich and complex on the palate, it show layers of red and black fruits enhanced by floral, black olive, vanilla, herb and spice tones.  It is easy to see why many compare fine Xynomavro bottlings to the Nebbiolos of Barolo.  The Ramnista is a sleek and sexy rendition of Xynomavro that invites you to compare it with its famous Italian brethren.
94 Wayne Belding Jul 8, 2014

Kir Yianni, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) Xynomavro Ramnista 2011 ($23, Diamond Wine Importers): The Xynomavro grape gets its highest accolades from the vineyards of Naoussa, in the Macedonia region of northern Greece.  It is made in a variety of styles, but the Kir Yianni Estate offers some of the best examples of this classic red.  Their 2011 Ramnista Xynomavro shows a delicious combination of fruit, floral and spice elements.  It has a forward bouquet of pure cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruits enhanced by hints of lilac, vanilla, sandalwood and spices.  Rich and complex on the palate, its layers of red and black fruits are underlain by woodsy, vanilla, herb and spice tones. The 2011 Ramnista has a deliciously sleek and silky texture that invites comparison with your favorite Nebbiolo wines.
92 Wayne Belding Jun 9, 2015

Kir Yianni, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) Xynomavro Ramnista 2012 ($25, Diamond Wine Importers): The Kir Yianni Estate offers some of the best examples of this classic Naoussa red from the native Xynomavro grape.  The Xynomavro shows its best in the Macedonian vineyards of Naoussa and Kir Yianni is a consistently excellent producer.  Their 2012 Ramnista Xynomavro shows a delicious combination of fruit, floral and spice elements.  It has a forward bouquet of pure cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruits enhanced by hints of lilac, vanilla, cocoa and spices.  Silky and complex on the palate, its layers of red and black fruits are underlain by woodsy, vanilla, herb and spice tones.  The 2012 Ramnista has a rich texture and will cellar well for another 6+ years.
92 Wayne Belding Aug 23, 2016

Kir-Yianni , Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) “Ramnista” 2012 ($33, Diamond): While it still tastes very youthful, this wine delivers considerable complexity and offers great drinking pleasure.  It is medium bodied and nicely balanced by both a refreshing thread of acidity and a slick of soft tannins that dissolve across the tongue on the finish.  Because it is so beautifully structured it is a wine to enjoy with a diversity of foods, from lamb shanks to eggplant parm; from pulled pork to baked ziti; from roast chicken to cheese ravioli.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 18, 2016

Boutari, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) Xynomavro “Grande Reserve” 2008 ($26, Terlato Wines International): Xynomavro is the signature grape of Naoussa, in the Macedonia region of northern Greece.  The grape is most often compared to the Nebbiolo of northern Italy with its delicate yet powerful style.  Boutari produces fine Naoussa year in and year out and their Grande Reserve shows the classic style of Xynomavro.  It has a complex bouquet of dried strawberry, cherry, and plum fruits underscored by hints of dried flowers, wild mushrooms, black olives and spices.  Rich, leafy and intriguing on the palate, it shows layers of red and black fruits enhanced by dried herb and floral tones plus hints of olive and spice.  With its firm tannins and crisp acidity, it is easy to see why many compare fine Xynomavro bottlings to the Nebbiolos of Barolo.  The Boutari Grande Reserve is a lovely rendition of Xynomavro that offers a great deal for its affordable price.
91 Wayne Belding Jun 9, 2015

Dalamara, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) Xinomavro 2018 ($40, Dionysos Imports):  Kostis Dalamára is a 6th-generation winemaker from Naoussa, Greece, where his family has been producing wine since 1840.  Xinomavro is Naoussa’s noble grape.  Xinomavro has been called the Nebbiolo of Greece (on account of its abundant acidity and tannin), and this 2018 Xinomavro matches its Italian counterpart with tantalizing aromas and beautifully balanced layers of fresh cherries, tomato leaf, sage, and plum.  With bright acidity and rounded tannins, this is drinking well today, but if you have the patience to hold it for a few more years, it will pay dividends.       
91 Miranda Franco Sep 19, 2023

Karydas Estate, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) 2003 ($24, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This is the absolute essence of a boutique producer: one family working with one grape on a single site and doing virtually everything by hand. This makes perfect sense because that one grape is Xynomavro, which is notorously difficult but which can make profound wine when lavished with care. This fine vintage shows very expressive aromas of ripe, sweet red berries, fresh meat, spring flowers and smoky oak. Although there's a lot of tannin in this as in most renditions of Xynomavro, there's also lots of concentration and ripeness in the fruit. Ready now if paired with rather fatty meats, this will really hit its stride in another two or three years and hold for a decade. 91 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Ktima Kir-Yianni, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) "Ramnista" 2001 ($22, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This flagship Xynomavro is just starting to hit its stride by showing some bottle bouquet, and yet it remains very fresh, with lots of sweet-seeming primary fruit. Nicely structured with acidity and ripe tannin, this is a great bet for the future but also excellent for current consumption with moderately robust meats like pork or veal. 91 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Moraitis Estate, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) “Paros” Reserve 2018 ($30, Dionysos Imports):  From Paros Island, this beautifully balanced blend of indigenous red Mandilaria and white Monemvasia starts with deep aromas of ripe, dusty cherries, vanilla, rosemary, and dark chocolate.  Bold, dark fruit flavors end in gripping tannins, making this poised to age and develop for a while.  The wine is robust yet harmonious, with a lovely spiced finish.  This is an ideal candidate for the dinner table.       
91 Miranda Franco Nov 1, 2022

Kir-Yianni, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) Xynomavro “Ramnista" 2015 ($26, Diamond Wine Importers):  Xynomavro is the premier red grape of Naoussa, in the Macedonia region of northern Greece.  It is made in a variety of styles, but the Kir-Yianni estate consistently creates a beautiful balance of fruit, oak, herb and spice nuances in their Ramnista Xyonmavro.  The 2015 Ramnista is a lovely and complex red.  It has a forward bouquet of strawberry, cherry, plum, and raspberry fruits underscored by hints of violets, vanilla, mushroom, olive, sandalwood and spices.  Rich and complex on the palate, it show layers of red and black fruits enhanced by floral, black olive, leather, vanilla, herb and spice tones.  It is easy to see why many compare fine Xynomavro bottlings to the Nebbiolos of Barolo and Barbaresco.  The Ramnista is a sleek rendition of Xynomavro that invites you to compare it with your favorite reds.  
90 Wayne Belding Feb 5, 2019

Kokkinos, Naoussa (Macedonia, Greece) Xinomavro 2015 ($20, Verity Wine Partners):  Xinomavro is the signature red variety of northern Greece.  It attains its fullest potential when grown in Naoussa, an appellation in the hills of Macedonia like this 2015 Xinomavro from Kokkinos.  It is bright and lively but has a rustic backbone and a tannic punch.  The nose exudes rich red fruit and graphite aromas.  The wine is intensely structured with strawberry, black pepper, and granite flavors that linger through to an elegant finish.  If you are a fan of  Barolo, this will be an excellent wine for you to try.       
90 Miranda Franco Jan 4, 2022

Thimiopoulos Vineyards, Naoussa (Central Macedonia, Greece) “Uranos” 2007 ($26, Athenee Importers):  Made from the Xinomavro grape, the only one allowed in the Naoussa appellation, this is a big, nicely structured wine with an appealing hard--but not aggressive--edge and an equally appealing tarry signature.  It’s best as a foil for a rich roast or grilled leg of lamb, not as a before dinner drink. 88 Michael Apstein May 25, 2010

Foundi, Naoussa PDO (Macedonia, Greece) Xinomavro 2015 ($19, Dionysos Imports):  One of the most important areas of viticulture in Greece, Naoussa lies in hilly Central Macedonia.   This wine is light red in color, with heady, earthy aromas and mouth-gripping spicy flavors shot through with acid.  Like most acidic wines (Nebbiolo for example), Xinomavro is best paired with food that has a generous fat content.  I enjoyed it recently with pan-seared lamb chops that boasted a rim of fat around the edge.        
90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 9, 2021

Parparousis Estate, Nemea (Peloponnese, Greece) Reserve 2003 ($35, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Made entirely from the potentially excellent Agiorgitiko grape (sometimes Anglicized as "St. George"), this wine features impressive depth of fruit recalling black cherries and dark berries. Interesting accents of tobacco leaf, fresh meat, vanilla and spices lend real complexity, and ultra-fine tannins contribute backbone without drying the gorgeous fruit. Fresh and pure despite excellent complexity, this is an exemplary rendition of one of Greece's leading varieties. 92 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Aivalis Winery, Nemea (Greece) Agiorgitiko "Le Sang de la Pierre" 2020 ($42, Dionysos Imports):  Winter is coming.  Break out your big red wines and tomahawk steaks — this Agiorgitiko is perfect.  Le Sang de la Pierre, “Blood Stone,” is a French inspired take on Agiorgitiko from low-yield producing vines in Traganes.  The winemaker uses French barrels and their attention to quality is on full display in this delicious red.  This wine shows pipe tobacco, potting soil, leather, and loads of ripe blackberry and black cherry throughout.  I’ve enjoyed this wine several times and have yet to be disappointed.     
91 Vince Simmon Oct 25, 2022

Aivalis Winery, Nemea (Greece) Agiorgitiko 2019 ($27, Dionysos Imports):  The grape, Agiorgitiko, is also known as “St. George" because the villagers of Nemea found it grew well in the valley, housing a chapel of that name.  This Agiorgitiko is bright and elegant, with intermingling spice and fruit aromas.  It has an elegant structure, is gentle and round on the palate, and has delicate and ripe tannins.  The red fruit flavors combine with subtle spicy hints of cinnamon and cloves.  It is an alluring combination of mouthwatering freshness and lingering minerality.      
91 Miranda Franco Nov 1, 2022

Boutari, Nemea (Greece) Agiorgitiko 2015 ($16, Terlato Wines International):  There are some great values available in the Greek wine world, and this is one that's fairly easy to locate domestically.  It's worth hunting down for its food friendly acidity and flavors of cherry, raspberry, orange zest pepper and spice.  Add low alcohol to the mix, and you've got a great house red, especially if you do a lot of Mediterranean cooking. 90 Rich Cook Oct 10, 2017

GAI’A Estate, Nemea (Peloponnese, Greece) Agiorgitiko 2011 ($23, Athenee Imports): Agiorgitiko is the stalwart grape of Greece’s Nemea region.  It can range in style from light and juicy to deep and weighty, depending on the producer’s desired style.  The GAI’A Agiorgitiko is a serious wine indeed.  From the Koutsi subregion of Nemea, it shows a beautiful balance of fruit, oak and spice.  The bouquet is redolent of ripe blackberries and raspberries underlain by hints of black pepper and sun-dried herbs plus subtle vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg tones from its oak aging.  The flavors are forward and attractive, with layers of raspberry and blackberry fruits given added interest by the spice and herb nuances.  Delicious now, it will cellar well for another five years.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 15, 2014

Gaia, Nemea (Greece) Estate 2003 ($45, Athenee Imports): One of the leading names in the renaissance of modern Greek wines, Gaia produces a handful of delicious, food-friendly wines crafted by a Greek-born, Bordeaux-trained enologist.  This big red made from the native Agiorgitiko grape and aged in new French oak barrels, combines power and grace, with the oak element smoothly integrated into lush, ripe fruit.  While it will continue to evolve over the next few years, it certainly delivers plenty of enjoyment now. 90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 3, 2007

Domaine Harlaftis, Nemea (Greece) 2008 ($12, Athenee Importers):  Agiorgitiko, Greece’s second most widely planted grape, is the only one allowed in Nemea, an appellation on the Peloponnese, west of Athens.  Although the grape often is transformed into bold, age-worthy red wines with considerable complexity, this one is a bit lighter, delivering red cherry-like flavors and an appealing rusticity.  Bright acidity keeps it lively.  Not a fruit bomb, it’s a good match for hamburgers and such on the grill. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 1, 2010

Biblia Chora Estate, Pangeon (Macedonia, Greece) Merlot 2003 ($36, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): A lot of people won't get fired up for Merlot from anyplace these days--much less from Greece--but this excellent wine will prove very rewarding for those with sufficiently open minds to give it a try. Soft fruit notes of plums and red berries are marvelously pure and expressive, with a nice herbal accent and subtle oak providing additional complexity. A tender, fleshy texture is nicely framed by fine-grained tannins, and the whole package is exceptionally symmetrical and balanced. 91 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Biblia Chora Estate, Pangeon (Macedonia, Greece) Red 2004 ($20, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): The straight Biblia Chora red is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, and it shows a classic leafy, herbal aromatic profile that works very well with the core of black plum and cassis fruit. Medium-bodied but quite flavorful, with a nice textural balance between ripe roundness and tannic grip, this is very well made from strong raw materials. 89 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Biblia Chora Estate, Pangeon (Greece) 2002 ($23, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This is a pretty conventional, international blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, but it does not smell or taste blandly international. Impressively complex fruit smells and tastes of dark berries, cassis, and plums, along with very subtle (but decidedly Old World) notes of tobacco, damp earth and mushrooms. This is a hard-to-peg but easy-to-enjoy red. 89 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2005

Parparousis Estate, Patra (Peloponnese, Greece) "Cava" 2005 ($28, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): A 50/50 blend of Assyrtiko and Athiri fermented and aged for 9 months in new, 500 liter French oak barrels, this impressive wine shows balanced oak notes of woodsmoke and spices working well with green melon fruit, intense mineral and dried herb notes, and a refreshing blast of lemony acidity in the finish. 90 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Antonopoulos Vineyards, Peloponnese (Greece) "Gherontoklima Rematias" 2000 ($28, Stellar Imports): A completely unique experience. This is a blend of the very rare Vertzami (60 percent) with 40 percent Cabernet Franc. Very dark in color, with deep, intense flavors of chocolate and cinnamon; incredibly delicious. Enjoy it with rabbit stewed in onions or grilled lamb. 95 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Gaia Estate, Peloponnese (Greece) "Gaia Estate" 2003 ($37, Athenée Imports; Winebow, Inc.): Its flagship red, the 2003 Gaia Estate from Nemea raises the Agiorghitiko variety to a new level. It is velvety, massive, and very concentrated, and could use another five years of aging. 94 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Katogi & Strofilia, Peloponnese (Greece) Agiorgitiko 2004 ($17, Wines We Are Importers): A stunning, intense, aromatic red from Nemea. This '04 Agiorgitiko has great acidity, is redolent of cherries, elegant, balanced, and impressive. 93 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Domaine Spiropoulos, Peloponnese (Greece) "Red Stag" 2003 ($12, Athenée Imports; Winebow, Inc.): Spiropoulos' most interesting red is its Red Stag, a 100 percent Agiorgitiko from Nemea. The 2003 Red Stag, made with very low yields, exhibits richly flavored, plump cherry and red berry fruit flavors. Red Stag is also a fine value. Enjoyable now, but it will age for a few years. 91 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Antonopoulos Vineyards, Peloponnese (Greece) "Antonopoulos Collection" 2002 ($20, Stellar Imports): A fascinating, fragrant red wine, made with 60 percent of the indigenous Mavrodaphne and 40 percent Merlot, it is quite full-bodied, but elegant and with soft tannins. Serve it with pasta with sausages in red sauce. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Mercouri Estate, Peloponnese (Greece) "Domaine Mercouri Cava" 2000 ($37, Athenée Imports; Winebow, Inc): The 2000 Domaine Mercouri Cava is a blend of 40 percent Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso (reputedly the best-aging Refosco variety), 40 percent Refosco, and 20 percent Mavrodaphne. The Cava (a Greek term for aged wine), aged 32 months before it was released, is slightly rustic in style, the opposite of an internationally-styled wine. It will age well for several years. Serve it with roasts and stews. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Skouras, Peloponnese (Greece) "Megas Oenos" 2003 ($24, Diamond Importers): This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Saint George (a.k.a. Agiorgitiko) shows how good Greek reds can be. Medium-full body shows impressive ripeness and concentration, and yet the wine isn't remotely over-ripe or over-extracted. Rather, the fruit shows real purity and focus, with aromas and flavors recalling blackberries and black plums. There's plenty of bracing as a result of 20 months of ageing in new French oak, and though the wine really needs a couple of years to absorb this and achieve optimal integration, there's no question that the symmetrical proportions of all the components in this wine will produce real greatness in another couple of years. 90 Michael Franz May 2, 2006

Mercouri Estate, Peloponnese (Greece) "Domaine Mercouri" 2003 ($15, Athenée Imports; Winebow, Inc.): Mercouri Estate, on the Ionian Sea in northwest Peloponnese, is the most picturesque wine estate in Greece. What other winery have you visited has dozens of peacocks roaming the grounds? Indigenous varieties, such as the white Roditis and the red Mavrodaphne, along with Italian (Friuli) varieties, such as the white Ribolla Gialla and the red Refosco, are emphasized. The 2003 Domaine Mercouri, 80 percent Refosco, 20 percent Mavrodaphne, is a deep cherry red wine with firm tannins, but with a velvety richness. Give it another two years to mature. 88 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Gaia Estate, Santorini (Greece) "Thalassitis" 2004 ($19, Athenée Imports; Winebow, Inc.): Gaia (YEA-ah) is one of the rising stars on the Greek wine scene. Yannis Paraskevopoulos, winemaker-co-owner, is a professor of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux. Gaia makes Assyrtiko in its Santorini winery. Its 2004 Thalassitis is a stunning wine, 90 percent Assyrtiko, a minerally, intensely-flavored, full-bodied white. It could use a bit of aging. 91 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) "Atlantis" 2002 ($16): Unusual and interesting but not weird, this medium-bodied red from the island of Santorini features plum and bing cherry fruit notes with aromatic accents of cinnamon and leather. Crafted from the indigenous Mandelaria and Mavrotragano grapes, this is the perfect wine to stump your neighborhood know-it-all. 87 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2005

Economou, Sitia (Crete, Greece) “Mirabello” 2015 ($75, T. Elenteny Imports):  This is the first release of the distinctive and delicious Mirabello, a blend of 60% Liatiko and 40% Mandilari.  Domaine Economou’s reds from the Sitia appellation are made from the local clone of Liatiko, found nowhere else on the island of Crete, let alone Greece or the rest of the Mediterranean.  This 2015 impresses with an intoxicating intensity to the fruit, with aromas of berries, orange peel, and fig.  It is rich with complex flavors of black cherry, anise, balsamic, and leather, finishing with notes of brambly cake spice on the palate.  There is real finesse here, with decisive but fine-grained tannins and bright acidity that will keep this wine going strong for at least a few more years.     
94 Miranda Franco Aug 16, 2022

Haritatos Vineyard, Slopes of Aenos PGI (Greece) Mavrodaphne “Mademoiselle Haritato” 2021 ($34, Diamond Wine Importers):  Jancis Robinson in her encyclopedic Wine Grapes (Harper Collins 2012) reports that Mvarodafni is likely the Greece’s most well-known grape because of the sweet, fortified wines made from it. Well, this is my first introduction to it, and Haritatos Vineyard stunning one is definitely not sweet, nor fortified.  Not particularly opulent, which gives it extra points in my world, it marries delicate fruitiness with wonderful savory notes, and finishes with a nuance of bitterness. Mild tannins lend support without disturbing its suave texture. It’s not a wine for sipping as an aperitif, but it definitely worth uncorking with red meat, pasta, or even fish in a tomato sauce.         
92 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2024

Tsantalis, Thessaly (Greece) Rapsani 2000 ($19, Fantis Imports): One of Tsantalis' three wineries is in Thessaly, near Mt. Olympus, home of the gods, and it is here that it makes its flagship red wine, Rapsani Epilegmenos (Reserve). Rapsani, a classic, traditional rustic Greek red, is one-third each of three indigenous varieties: Xenomavro, Stavrato, and Krassato. The '00 Rapsani is a complex, well-balanced, harmonious wine with baked red fruit aromas and red berry flavors, with a touch of mint, spices, herbs, and floral notes. A concentrated wine, still quite young. 90 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Voyatzi Estate, Velvendos (Kozani, Macedonia, Greece) Estate Red 2001 ($20, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Yiannis Voyatzis, who holds a Ph.D in oenology from the Univerity of Bordeaux, is doing interesting work with Roditis, Malvasia and a local red variety called Tsapournakos, but the real star here is a special clone of Xynomavro. Voyatzis blends this lead component with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a couple of local red varieties (Moschomavro and Vapsa) to make this flagship red. Nicely developed at this point but hardly played out, the 2001 shows interesting accents of flowers, leather and spices on a core of dark berry fruit. Medium-bodied but quite flavorful, it is nicely balanced with ripe tannin. 89 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Rosé:

Ktima Kir Yianni, Amyndeo (Greece) "Akakies" 2004 ($14, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Rosé season is about spent in my neck of the woods, but this wine is certainly not spent, and it is worth a search for those living in warm climates. Admirably dry and restrained, it features very tasty fruit with red cherries and a bright, almost citrus edge. Faintly spicy, this Xinomavro-based wine is very refreshing and food-friendly, and shows no signs of cracking up or losing its freshness. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 22, 2005

Kir Yianni Estate, Amyndeon (Macedonia, Greece) “Akakies” Rosé 2006 ($11, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This consistently excellent rosé is made from northern Greece's great Xynomavro, and it is as delicious in 2006 as in any vintage I've ever tasted it.  Bone dry and even slightly mineral in the finish, it is nevertheless generous and expressive in midpalate fruit, with nice notes of red cherry and plum.  Balanced and very fresh, this is an exemplary rosé. 89 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2007

Ktima Kir-Yianni, Amyndeon (Macedonia, Greece) "Akakies" Rosé 2005 ($10, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This consistently excellent rosé is crafted entirely from Macedonia's star cultivar, Xynomavro. Fresh and fruity without showing overt sweetness, it features expressive notes of strawberries and red cherries. Excellent acidity lends definition and refreshment value, and light tannin gives this just the right bit of grip in the finish. 88 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Anhydrous, Cyclades (Greece) Rosé “Grace” 2020 ($15, Nestor Imports):  The Anhydrous Winery is on the Greek island of Santorini, where grape vines are wrapped around themselves in tight circles called basket or “kouloura,” hugging the volcanic soil for protection from the winds.   The wine is a blend of the dark-colored grape, Mandilaria, which provides the ruby color and savory, dark berry flavors while the white Aidani grape adds peachy, floral flavors and lively acidity.  Formerly known as Avantis Santorini, established by winemaker Apostolos Mountrichas in 2012, the name was changed to Anhydrous in 2021, offering a restaurant, spa and wine tastings.     
93 Rebecca Murphy Oct 11, 2022

Alpha Estate, Florina (Greece) Rosé 2012 ($18, Diamond Wine Importers): Made from a 50-50 blend of Xinomavro and Syrah, this is an intense rosé that has the gooseberry aromas of cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc on the nose. On the palate, it starts off savory and finishes with ripe strawberries. Very intense for a pink wine. 13.5% alcohol and a notably low 3.20 pH.
91 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Gai’a, Greece (Greece) “14-18 H” Rosé 2009 ($14, Athenee Importers):  Although made entirely from Agiorgitiko, one of Greece’s prestige grapes, grown in Nemea, one of Greece’s prime wine producing areas, this carries no appellation because regulations only recognize red wines from Nemea, not rosé.   After tasting this wine, it’s pretty clear that those regulations need to change.  Crisp and bracing, this lovely rosé is serious stuff, redolent of wild strawberries.  Those looking for bright and refreshing rosé this summer can stop looking. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010

Antonopoulos Vineyards, Peloponnese (Greece) "Gris de Noir" NV ($16, Stellar Imports): The delicious, pale pink '04 Gris de Noir, all peaches, apricots, and roses, is 100 percent Moschofilero. Serve it with grilled octopus or squid. 91 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Katogi & Strofilia, Peloponnese (Greece) "Rosé of the Moon" 2004 ($12, Wines We Are Importers): Also called Colé, this 100 percent Agiorgitiko rosé is fruity, fragrant, and delicious. 91 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Domaine Spiropoulos, Peloponnese (Greece) "Meliasto" 2004 ($11, Athenée Imports; Winebow, Inc.): The 2004 Meliasto, 100 percent Moschofilero, is a delicate, dry rosé made from ripe, pink-tinged Moschofilero grapes, with tart strawberry aromas and flavors. Try it with seafood. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Domaine Skouras, Peloponnese PGI (Greece) "Zoe" Rosé 2019 ($13, Diamond Importers):  Despite the travail of the world at large, it is springtime and thus it’s Rosé Season!  The vineyards of Greece provide us with the delicious 2019 Domaine Skouras Zoe Rosé.  Made from Agioritiko and Moschlfilero, two indigenous Greek grapes, the Zoe Rosé delights the senses with its combination of fruit and spice elements.   A vivid pink in color, it begins with a striking visual appeal.  The bouquet bursts forth from the glass with floral scents plus ripe cherry and strawberry fruits enhanced by and hints of spiced pear and coriander.  On the palate, it is alive with juicy cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruits as well as subtle coriander spice tones.  This is a delightful Rosé that will pair well with everything from pasta salads to grilled zucchini to burgers.   
91 Wayne Belding Mar 31, 2020

Domaine Skouras, Peloponnese PGI (Greece) “Zoe” Rosé 2022 ($16, Diamond Wine Importers):  The delicious 2022 Domaine Skouras Zoe Rosé is from the Peloponnese region of central Greece.  It is made from Agioritiko (70%) and Moschofilero (30%), two indigenous Greek grapes, and shows the character of both varieties.  The Zoe Rosé delights the senses with its combination of fruit and spice nuances.  A vivid pink in color, it has a bouquet that is forward and fresh, with lavender floral scents of the Moschofilero plus ripe cherry and strawberry fruits of the Agioritiko enhanced by and hints of pear and subtle spice.  On the palate, it is refreshing and vibrant with juicy cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruits as well as delicate spice tones.  The finish is clean, dry and lively.     
89 Wayne Belding Oct 17, 2023

Domaine Skouras, Peloponnese PGI (Greece) “Zoe” Rosé 2021 ($14, Diamond Wine Importers):  The vineyards of the Peloponnese of central Greece provide us with the delicious 2021 Domaine Skouras Zoe Rosé.  Made from Agioritiko 70% and Moschofilero 30%, two indigenous Greek grapes, the Zoe Rosé delights the senses with its combination of fruit and spice elements.  A vivid pink in color, it begins with a striking visual appeal.  The bouquet is forward ad fresh, with lavender floral scents of the Moschofilero plus ripe cherry and strawberry fruits enhanced by and hints of pear and subtle spice.  On the palate, it is alive with juicy cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruits as well as delicate coriander spice tones.  The finish is clean, dry and refreshing.     
89 Wayne Belding Sep 13, 2022

Domaine Skouras, Peloponnese PGI (Greece) "Zoe" Rosé 2020 ($12, Diamond Wine Importers):  The vineyards of the Peloponnese of central Greece provide us with the delicious 2020 Domaine Skouras Zoe Rosé.  Made from Agioritiko and Moschlfilero, two indigenous Greek grapes, the Zoe Rosé delights the senses with its combination of fruit and spice elements.  A vivid pink in color, it begins with a striking visual appeal.  The bouquet bursts forth from the glass with lavender floral scents plus ripe cherry and strawberry fruits enhanced by and hints of spiced pear and coriander.  On the palate, it is alive with juicy cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruits as well as subtle coriander spice tones.  This is a delightful rosé that will pair well with lighter fare.          
89 Wayne Belding Sep 7, 2021

Domaine Skouras, Peloponnesos (Greece) Rosé "Zoe" 2013 ($12, Diamond Wine Importers): The 2013 Zoe Rosé delights the senses with its combination of fruit and spice characteristics.  Made from two indigenous Greek grapes -- Agioritiko and Moschlfilero -- it provides scintillating refreshment.  A vivid pink in color, it bursts with ripe cherry and strawberry fruits enhanced by floral-violet nuances and hints of pear and coriander.  On the palate, it is alive with juicy cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruits as well as subtle tarragon and coriander spice tones.  This is a delightful rosé with a surprisingly rich texture that will allow it to pair with a wide range of summertime recipes.  Brighten up your summer table with it.
90 Wayne Belding May 20, 2014

Domaine Skouras, Peloponnesos (Greece) “Zoe" Rosé 2016 ($13, Diamond Importers): Brighten up your summer table with a delicious Greek rosé!  The 2016 Zoë Rosé delights the senses with its combination of fruit and spice elements.  Made from Agioritiko and Moschlfilero, two indigenous Greek grapes, it will add excitement to your summer table.  A vivid pink in color, it begins with a vivid chromatic appeal.  The bouquet veritably sings of summer -- bursting with floral scents plus ripe cherry and strawberry fruits enhanced by and hints of pear and coriander.  On the palate, it is alive with juicy cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruits as well as subtle tarragon and coriander spice tones.  This is a delightful rosé that will pair well with everything from pasta salads to grilled zucchini to burgers.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 11, 2017

Mercouri Estate, PGI Ilia (Peloponnese, Greece) Lampadias Rosé 2013 ($16, Athenee Imports): This beautiful rosé has just arrived in the US and hails from the western shores of Greece’s Peloponnese.  A vibrant pink in color, it reveals lovely strawberry, raspberry and cherry fruits at the nose underlain by a hint of white pepper and lemon thyme.  The flavors are pure and bright, with the strawberry and cherry fruits underlain by a creamy texture and intriguing herbal nuances.  This is a combination of two native Greek grapes (Agiorgitiko 50% and Avgoustiatis 50%) that will be a fantastic companion for grilled salmon or your favorite summery Mediterranean recipe.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 1, 2014

Domaine Skouras, PGI Peloponnese (Greece) "Zoe" Rosé 2015 ($13, Diamond Importers): The 2015 Zoe Rosé from Domaine Skouras is a perfect summertime drink.  It delights the senses with its combination of fruit and spice characteristics.  Made from two indigenous Greek grapes -- Agioritiko and Moschlfilero -- it offers a lot of character for a very affordable price.  A vivid pink in color, it bursts with ripe cherry, banana and strawberry fruits enhanced by floral-violet nuances of the Moschofilero and hints of pear and coriander.  On the palate, it shows juicy cherry, banana, strawberry fruits underscored by subtle tarragon and coriander spice tones.  This is a delightful rosé with a surprisingly rich texture that will allow it to pair with a wide range of summertime recipes.
92 Wayne Belding Jul 19, 2016

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) "Atlantis" Rosé 2005 ($14, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Temperatures get seriously hot on the island of Santorini, so it is easy enough to understand how it would give rise to rosé wines. A blend of 80% Assyrtiko and 20% Mandilaria, it shows a flamboyantly flowery nose that suggests a hint of sweetness, but this is counterbalanced by a pleasantly bitter note that marks the wine's finish. Light mineral notes on a base of cranberry fruit lend additional interest, and the whole package is quite interesting and enjoyable. 88 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Domaine Zafeirakis, Tyrnavos (Thessaly, Greece) Limniona Rosé 2019 ($16, DNS Wines):  From a vineyard in the Tyrnavos region, near Mount Olympus, Domaine Zafeirakis makes this astounding 100 percent Limniona Rosé.   Limniona, a Greek indigenous variety, dates back more than 3,000 years and almost faced extinction.  Notably, Christos Zafeirakis of Domaine Zafeirakis almost single-handedly resurrected Limniona by planting it in the Tyrnavos area in Thessaly in 2000.  The Domaine Zafairakis Limniona Rosé offers cranberry and strawberry aromas that lead into savory flavors of sage and Mediterranean herbs.  The wine is vibrant and enticing, and its mouth-watering finish makes it ultra-food-friendly.      
91 Miranda Franco Jun 8, 2021

Sparkling:

Domaine Karanika, Amyndeon (Macedonia, Greece) Brut "Cuvée Speciale" 2019 ($35, Salveto):  The tantalizing 2019 Brut Cuvée Speciale is a Xinomavro from old vines (30 to 60 years), with 10% Assyrtiko.  It is loaded with sublime aromas of toasted almonds, red apple, apricot, brioche, crushed stone, and an intoxicating citrus-chalk fusion.  The palate is structured and substantial, with a core of minerals that carry the expressive notes of crisp citrus and stone fruits.  There are everlasting bubbles that move onto the beautiful and persistent finish.      
92 Miranda Franco Apr 4, 2023

Kir-Yianni, Amyndeon (Greece) “Akakies” Sparkling Dry Rosé 2014 ($21, Diamond Wine Importers): The rising prices of Champagne coupled with the increasing popularity of all kinds of bubbly wine has necessitated thinking outside of the box.  Outside the box for many might be Crémant de Bourgogne or even a sparkling Vouvray.  But really outside of the box is this wine, a lovely sparkling rosé from northern Greece.  Its seductive pink color immediately captivates, but its versatility is what keeps you enthralled.  A plump fruitiness and refinement allows enjoyment as a stand-alone aperitif, but it conveys plenty of oomph since it’s made from the robust Xinomavro (transliterated, “acid and black”) grape.  So bring it to the table to accompany a tomato-based seafood stew.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2016

Kir Yianni, Amyndeon (Macedonia, Greece) “Akakies" Sparkling Rosé 2012 ($20, Diamond Wine Importers): This is a stylish and attractive bubbly from Kir Yianni, a noted producer of both still red and white wines in northern Greece.  Their Akakies Rosé takes its name from the abundant acacia trees in the region of Amyndeon.  A vibrant pink in color, the wine is crafted from the Xynomavro grape, has a lovely nose of strawberries, sweet cherries, almond and herbs.  The flavors are juicy and refreshing with the cherry and strawberry fruits followed by floral and white pepper hints.  It is round and smooth on the palate with a creamy texture -- a perfectly delicious drink for a late summer day.
89 Wayne Belding Aug 12, 2014

Tselepos, Peloponnese (Greece) Amalia Brut NV ($29, Cava Spiliadis):  Sparkling wine from the Peloponnese has no legal appellation, but that has not stopped producers from making good ones.  Tselepos, uses the Moschofilero grape and the traditional method of a secondary fermentation in the bottle (as in Champagne) to produce this delightful one.  The floral aromatics are immediately engaging.  A pleasing roundness and its delicate perfume make it easy to enjoy by itself, but a spine of acidity, the Moschofilero grape speaking, allows it to hold up against grilled red snapper.    
90 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2019

White:

Katogi & Strofilia, Attica (Greece) "Averoff Fresco White" 2004 ($12, Wines We Are Importers): One of the most progressive wineries in Greece, Katogi & Strofilia (also known as Averoff) is producing wines in three major regions. Some of its wines maintain the name of its renowned founder, Evangelos Averoff, on its label. The 2004 Fresco White, 60 percent Roditis, 40 percent Savatiano, is fresh, crisp, lively wine, ideal with seafood. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Sokos, Central Greece (Greece) Savatiano 2021 ($11, Dionysos Imports):  Savatiano is Greece’s most widely grown grape.  Native to the Attica region, the grape is known to show tree fruit and floral notes.  This wine shows fresh pear and apple dominate the body with subtle white floral and honeysuckle notes supporting the fruit-driven structure.  I can easily see this wine as an ideal palate cleanser, either before or between courses, to liven the taste buds on a tasty drink.  Similarly, this is a great wine for someone who is looking to branch out from their traditional white wine choices.  At $11, this can easily be your fall wine of choice.      
89 Vince Simmon Oct 25, 2022

Gentilini, Cephalonia (Ionian Islands, Greece) Robola 2004 ($13, Athenée Imports; Winebow, Inc.): One of the great island wineries, Gentilini is producing an excellent white, 2004 Gentilini Robola, a crisp, aromatic, lively minerally wine, 100 percent Robola, another of Greece's wonderful indigenous varieties. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Gentilini, Cephalonia (Ionian Islands, Greece) Robola 2013 ($19, Athenee Imports): This is a refreshing white from the native Robola grape of the Ionian islands of Greece.  Gentilini’s Robola comes from the best site for the grape -- the higher altitude vineyards on Cehpalonia.  It has an attractive bouquet of lemon zest, green apple, pink grapefruit, almonds, honey and white flowers.  Clean and lively on the palate, the citrus peel and green apple notes are underlain by a lightly creamy texture, a nutty complexity and a crisp and dry finish.  It’s a perfect summer seafood white.
89 Wayne Belding Jul 8, 2014

Domaine Porto Carras, Côtes de Meliton (Central Macedonia, Greece) Assyrtiko 2009 ($16, Athenee Importers):  This domaine is the sole winery in the Côte de Meliton appellation in northern Greece and one of the country’s largest vineyard owners.  Porto Carras has fashioned a very engaging version of Assyrtiko--slightly softer and more aromatic--than is made on the island of Santorini, the grape’s traditional home.  Clean and bright, it has a lively Granny Smith apple-like bite that makes it a good choice for simple seafood. 88 Michael Apstein May 25, 2010

Douloufakis, Crete (Greece) Vidiano 2022 ($19, Diamond Wine Importers):  The Douloufakis Vidiano epitomizes the character of Mediterranean white wine for me.  It shows a classic style, with layering and depth that is sure to please your palate  The 2022 Vidiano provides a delicious introduction to this classic Greek grape. It is a pure and complex white that has remarkable richness and character for such an affordable wine.  While the wines of Crete are not well known, wines with this degree of character and finesse should increase the interest in the island’s produce.  The 2022 Douloufakis Vidiano offers a lovely bouquet of flowers, peach, passion fruit, citrus peel and spice.  The flavors are pure and exciting, with peach, tropical and lemon fruit flavors underlain by subtle honey, herb and spice tones.  It has lots of depth and nuance and will be a fine companion for a wide range of foods.  Try it yourself and enjoy.          
93 Wayne Belding Feb 20, 2024

Boutari, Crete (Greece) Vilana “Kretikos" 2020 ($14, Terlato Wines):  The Kretikos Vilana from Boutari provides a delicious introduction to this classic Greek grape.  This is a pure and complex white that has remarkable richness and character for such an affordable wine.  The wines of Crete have existed in the shadows of the international wine market, but wines with this degree of character and finesse will surely increase the attraction of the island’s produce.  The 2020 Boutari Kretikos Vilana offers a lovely bouquet of peach, apple, citrus peel and spice.  The flavors are pure and exciting, with peach, apple, tropical and lemon fruit flavors underlain by subtle honey, herb and spice tones.  It shows a classic Mediterranean style, with layering and depth that is sure to please your palate.  It will provide great tasting enjoyment for the next 3 to 5 years.         
92 Wayne Belding Oct 18, 2022

Lyrarakis, Crete (Greece) Dafni Psarades 2021 ($22, USA Wine West):  won't be to everyone's taste, but if you like Gin & Tonics, this may be for you.  Dafni is a white variety whose name translates to laurel or bay leaf in Greek, and Lyrarakis saved it from near extinction.  The Lyrarakis estate is a family vineyard and winery producing wines since 1966 with a strong focus on rare local varieties, single variety, and single-vineyard wines.  The 2021 Dafni has distinctive botanical and herbal notes of minty leaf, rosemary, green eucalyptus, and menthol.  This is crisp, fresh, and interesting.  This is a lighter-styled wine with a lively, refreshing finish.  It is worth exploring with the right food matchup -- perhaps hummus, shrimp, or dolma.  But experiment on your own as Dafni is truly a delight!       
91 Miranda Franco Jun 21, 2022

Lyrarakis, Crete (Greece) “Okto” 2013 ($17, Stellar Importing): I found this little Greek gem to be absolutely enchanting, light and effortless in spirit yet satisfyingly full bodied.  I was sucked in immediately by its heady, floral fragrance and then surprised by the almost herbal flavors.  This dreamy little white wine is sippable on its own and dry enough to be enjoyed with seafood (I can absolutely imagine it with buttery pan-fried trout), and cheese-oriented tidbits (saganaki anyone?).  A blend of White Muscat (50%), Vilana (40%) and Sauvignon Blanc (10%).
90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 16, 2016

Domaine Sigalas, Cyclades (Greece) Assyrtiko + Monemvasia 2018 ($24, Diamond Wine Importers):  Greek wines often exhibit a style that combines richness and refreshment in a most enticing way.  This wine is a blend of two native varieties grown in the Cyclades, the group of islands in the Aegean Sea that includes Santorini and Paros, among others.  This 50/50 combo of Assyrtiko and Monemvasia from Domaine Sigalas shows an exotic nose of honeysuckle, lemon, ripe apple and melon.  The flavors exhibit pure apple, honey, melon, and tropical fruits backed by hints of citrus peel and subtle herbs.  It has a rich texture and a lifted and lively finish.  The elegant honey and floral tones of the Monemvasia combine with the depth and mineral character of the Assyrtiko to give this wine an attractive style that is well worth a try.    
91 Wayne Belding May 26, 2020

Gavalas Winery, Cyclades (Greece) “Posta” 2020 ($24, Dionysos Imports):  Cyclades islands such as Santorini are excellent sources for modern-day Greek wines, especially Assyrtiko.  Gavalas’ Posta utilizes their younger Assyrtiko plantings and blends them with 40% Monemvasia.  The addition of Monemvasia, an early ripening and high yielding grape, provides body and supports the integration of fine lees into the flavor palate of this wine.  Posta is a creamy and balanced white that is designed to drink in its youth.  Stock up before spring arrives and pair this wine with a sunny picnic – you will think summer has already arrived.        
90 Vince Simmon Jan 24, 2023

Ktima Pavlidis, Drama (Macedonia, Greece) 2005 ($15, Athenee Importers): This is an arrestingly intense, dramatic wine blended from Sauvignon Blanc and the great indigenous Greek variety of Assyrtiko. Dramatically refreshing, it leads with vivid citrus fruit edged with notes of dried herbs, smoke, grilled nuts and minerals, all very well integrated and solidly founded on a base of crisp but ripe acidity. Complete and very complex, this is as interesting as it is downright delicious. 91 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2006

Wine Art Estate, Drama (Macedonia, Greece) Chardonnay “Idisma Drios” 2021 ($20, Dionysos Imports):  Drios translates to "sweetly oaked," a completely appropriate name for this deliciously oaked Chardonnay.  Smooth tropical kiwi and pineapple notes are interlaced with the buttery-vanilla oak aging notes.  While this wine lacks the depth and power of its more expensive Californian cousins, at $20 this hits the sweet spot between price and quality.     
89 Vince Simmon Oct 25, 2022

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Macedonia, Greece) Malagousia 2014 ($26, Cava Spilidias USA): The Malagousia grape nearly disappeared from vineyards in the post-phylloxera era in northern Greece.  Evangelos Gerovassiliou is credited with saving this distinctive grape from extinction and showing the world its enchanting style.  Gerovassiliou’s 2014 Malagousia has rich floral aromas of lily and linden flower combined with peach, citrus and tropical fruits plus exotic herbal elements.  The flavors are full and forward with the luscious peach, grapefruit and tropical fruit tones backed by delicate floral, honey, herb and citrus peel nuances.  Its rich texture that makes it a versatile food companion as well.  Enjoy it with full-flavored Mediterranean recipes, grilled fish or your favorite seafood stew.
92 Wayne Belding Jun 9, 2015

Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Greece) Malagousia 2021 ($32, Cava Spiliadis):  Malagousia is an aromatic white grape that is reminiscent of Viognier, Albariño or dry Muscat wines.  It was nearly extinct in the 1970’s when Professor of Oenology Vassilis Logothetis found it growing in west central Greece.  One of his students, Vangelis Gerovassiliou, began to experiment with it to great success, and today Malagousia is planted throughout Greece.  Ktima Gerovassiliou Malagousia, however, remains the benchmark by which others are measured.  The 2021 Gerovassiliou Malagousia is drawn from vines in Epanomi, just outside the city of Thessaloniki in northern Greece.  It is an enchanting sensory experience with an expressive bouquet of peach, ripe apple and tropical fruits enhanced by linden flower, herb and citrus peel hints.  The flavors are exotic and appealing with the luscious peach and tropical fruits backed by a rich texture and delicate floral, herb and citrus peel tones.      
91 Wayne Belding Jul 11, 2023

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Macedonia, Greece) Chardonnay 2004 ($28, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): I wouldn't blame you for wondering why the world needs another $28 Chardonnay, and I might understand why you'd be leery of shelling out for one from Greece. But I'd be downright shocked if you didn't love the wine once you tried it, as it shows wonderful aromas of ripe peaches and baked apples with artful accents including woodsmoke, spices, fresh bread and subtle spices. Fresh but substantial, this is a very well made and highly versatile wine. 90 Michael Franz May 16, 2006

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Macedonia, Greece) Chardonnay 2004 ($28, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Sotiris Bafitis Selections): An exceptionally well made wine, this is very complex and very well balanced and integrated. Lovely fruit notes of peaches and ripe pears are augmented by accents of bread dough, woodsmoke and spicy oak. A dash of citrus acidity in the finish lends freshness and focus to the finish. 90 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Macedonia, Greece) Malagousia 2005 ($17, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Evangelos Gerovassiliou is predominantly responsible for saving the indigenous Malagousia grape from extinction two decades ago, and the consistently excellent wines he now makes from it shows that it was well worth saving. With subtle aromas of peaches and a light mineral tinge, this is medium-bodied and nicely rounded in texture, with a clean, refreshing finish. 89 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi (Macedonia, Greece) Malagousia 2005 ($17, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This is a superb rendition of Greece's Malagousia grape from one of the leading estates in Macedonia. Subtle aromas are very fresh and pleasant, but the primary attraction is the broad, soft palate, which features lovely peach-like fruit with medium body and a very nice mineral touch in the finish. A great choice for scallops or fin fish. 89 Michael Franz May 16, 2006

Domaine Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi IGT (Macedonia, Greece) Malagouzia Single Vineyard 2019 ($27):  Vangelis Gerovassiliou, the man credited with rescuing this grape from extinction, makes a superb example of it at his estate near Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city and the country’s most important port.  The captivating combination of subtle tropical fruits and bracing acidity is, of course, present.  But there is an added gracefulness and a palate-caressing texture that adds to its appeal.  This is a sophisticated wine whose price belies its qualities.  It shines next to simply grilled fish accented by lemon-infused olive oil.  
93 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2020

Domaine Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi IGT (Macedonia, Greece) White Wine 2019 ($20):  Gerovassiliou, who is credited with saving the Malagouzia grape from extinction, blends it with Assyrtiko to create this charming wine.  It is more floral than his monovarietal Malagouzia, which is surprising since one might assume that the Assyrtiko would add more structure and minerality.  But perhaps it’s because the Assyrtiko in this case comes from Macedonia, in the north of Greece, rather than its ancestral home on Santorini.  Outside of Santorini, Assyrtiko expresses far less saline minerality.  Perhaps it’s just a different expression of the Malagouzia.  Whatever the reason, it’s a winsome wine whose tropical notes are beautifully balanced and offset by energetic acidity.  In 2019, this is (paradoxically) even more floral and forward than his straight Malagousia.  Think of it as a friendly, early-drinking Assyrtiko.    
90 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2020

Alpha Estate, Florin (Amyndeon, Greece) Malagouzia Turtles Vineyard 2017 ($19, Diamond Wine Importers):  This is an aromatic and full-bodied white from northern Greece.  Alpha Estate is a top producer in Amyndeon and particularly in the Florina subregion.  Their 2017 Malagouzia is drawn entirely from higher altitude vineyards and it is a luscious sensory experience for those new to native Greek grapes.  Its rich aromas of ripe apple, peach and tropical fruits are enhanced by linden flower, herb and orange peel hints.  The flavors are equally rich and exotic with the luscious peach and tropical fruits backed by delicate floral, fresh herb and citrus peel tones.  It has a rich texture that makes it a good choice to pair with full flavored Mediterranean dishes or simply roasted chicken.  
91 Wayne Belding Dec 18, 2018

Alpha Estate, Florina (Amyndeon , Greece) Malagouzia Turtles Vineyard 2018 ($18, Diamond Wine Importers):  Malagouzia is an aromatic and full-bodied white grown mostly northern Greece.  Alpha Estate is a top producer in Amyndeon and particularly in the Florina subregion.  The 2018 bottling continues a string of successful harvests for Alpha Estate.  Their 2018 Malagouzia is drawn entirely from the Turtles Vineyard -- a higher altitude site that yields grapes of great intensity.  It is a luscious sensory experience for those new to native Greek grapes.  Its rich aromas of peach, ripe apple and tropical fruits are enhanced by linden flower, herb and citrus peel hints.  The flavors are exotic and appealing with the luscious peach and mango fruits backed by delicate floral, herb and citrus peel tones.  
91 Wayne Belding Jul 23, 2019

Alpha Estate, Florina (Macedonia, Greece) Malagouzia Turtles Vineyard 2019 ($18, Diamond Wine Importers):   Florina is a growing region in Macedonia of Northern Greece.  Alpha Estate is a top producer on this high plateau.  With an elevation over 2000 feet, cool-climate grapes can thrive.  Malagouzia is an enchanting and aromatic white grape that can be variously reminiscent of Viognier, Grüner Veltliner or dry Muscat wines.  The 2019 Alpha Estate Malagouzia is drawn entirely from the Turtles Vineyard – a site that yields grapes of great intensity.  It is a luscious sensory experience for those new to native Greek grapes.  Its rich aromas of peach, ripe apple and tropical fruits are enhanced by linden flower, herb and citrus peel hints.  The flavors are exotic and appealing with the luscious peach and mango fruits backed by delicate floral, herb and citrus peel tones.  The texture is full and the finish is long.  It’s well worth seeking out.          
91 Wayne Belding Mar 9, 2021

Alpha Estate, Florina (Macedonia, Greece) Malagouzia Turtles Vineyard 2022 ($19, Diamond Wine Importers):  The Malagouzia grape was rescued from near-extinction in the 1970s.  Since then, it has been carefully nurtured and re-established in the vineyards of northern Greece.  Florina is a higher elevation growing region in Macedonia; and Alpha Estate is a top producer here.  Malagouzia is an aromatic white grape that yields wines reminiscent of Viognier, Albariño or dry Muscat.  The 2022 Alpha Estate Malagouzia is drawn entirely from the Turtles Vineyard – a site that yields grapes of great intensity.  It is an enchanting sensory experience with an expressive bouquet of peach, pear and tropical fruits enhanced by flower, herb and citrus peel hints.  The flavors are exotic and appealing with the luscious peach and tropical fruits backed by delicate floral, herb and citrus peel tones.          
91 Wayne Belding Jan 2, 2024

Alpha Estate, Florina (Macedonia, Greece) Malagouzia Turtles Vineyard 2021 ($20, Diamond Wine Importers):  The Malagouzia grape was nearly extinct in the 1970’s when Professor of Oenology Vassilis Logothetis found it growing in west central Greece.  One of his students, Vangelis Gerovassiliou, began to experiment with it to great success, and today Malagouzia is planted throughout Greece.  Florina is a growing region in Macedonia of Northern Greece.  Alpha Estate is a top producer on this high plateau.  Malagouzia is an aromatic white grape that results in wines reminiscent of Viognier, Albariño or dry Muscat.  The 2021 Alpha Estate Malagouzia is drawn entirely from the Turtles Vineyard – a site that yields grapes of great intensity.  It is an enchanting sensory experience with an expressive bouquet of peach, ripe apple and tropical fruits enhanced by linden flower, herb and citrus peel hints.  The flavors are exotic and appealing with the luscious peach and mango fruits backed by delicate floral, herb and citrus peel tones.  It has a rich texture and a long finish and will provide fine drinking for another year or two.     
91 Wayne Belding Dec 13, 2022

Alpha Estate, Florina (Macedonia, Greece) Malagouzia Turtles Vineyard 2020 ($20, Diamond Wine Importers):  is a growing region in Macedonia of Northern Greece.  Alpha Estate is a top producer on this high plateau.  With an elevation over 2000 feet, cool-climate grapes can thrive.  Malagouzia is an aromatic white grape that can be variously reminiscent of Viognier, Albariño or dry Muscat wines.  The 2020 Alpha Estate Malagouzia is drawn entirely from the Turtles Vineyard – a site that yields grapes of great intensity.  It is a luscious sensory experience with an enchanting and expressive bouquet.  Its rich aromas of peach, ripe apple and tropical fruits are enhanced by linden flower, herb and citrus peel hints.  The flavors are exotic and appealing with the luscious peach and mango fruits backed by delicate floral, herb and citrus peel tones.  The texture is full and the finish is long.  If you like aromatic whites, you should give Malagouzia a try.      
91 Wayne Belding Jun 14, 2022

Alpha Estate, Florina (Greece) Malagouzia "Axia" 2012 ($18, Diamond Wine Importers): This widely available white wine is many people's introduction to Alpha Estate wines. I drank so much of it on my first full night in Thessaloniki that I made an embarrassing emotional rant at a table full of writers and lost their respect; the wine was so easy to drink that it snuck up on me. Only when I tasted the portfolio later did I realize how out of character it is with the rest. Every other Alpha Estate wine -- every one -- is intense. This one, the one most people know, is light, pretty and deceptively subtle. There's some savoriness, but mostly it's a fruit-driven wine that's entirely too easy to drink the heck out of.  I know a flawed belief system is what really led me to embarrass myself, and yet I blame this wine. 13% alcohol.
91 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Ktima Kir-Yianni, Florina (Macedonia, Greece) "Samaropetra" 2005 ($13, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This winning blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Roditis shows very nice aromatic notes and excellent acidity to accent the fresh fruit notes of limes and green melons. 88 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Alpha Estate, Florina (Greece) Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($17, Diamond Wine Importers): I can see this wine getting high scores from critics who don't demand oak in their Sauvignon Blanc. It's very intense, with an aroma of gooseberries and earth, and strong mouth-puckering cold-climate fruit flavors with some stony notes. I probably should like it more than I did, but it was just too intense for me. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc fans might dig it. 13.5% alcohol.
86 W. Blake Gray Apr 30, 2013

Alpha Estate, Florina IGT (Amyndeon, Greece) Malagouzia Turtles Vineyard 2019 ($19):  Malagouzia, sometimes spelled Malagousia, an aromatic indigenous northern Greek grape, was nearly extinct until the 1970s when an enology professor encouraged Vangelis Gerovassiliou (one of his students and now one of the best producers of it), to explore its possibilities.  The rest is history.  Malagouzia is now grown all over Greece and makes a uniquely delightful wine.  This one, from a leading estate located in the north, shows its charms, an ideal combination of subtle floral and tropical notes with bracing acidity.  The tropical aspect is subtle, which makes it even more appealing.  The acidity holds it throughout a meal.  Though it’s great with grilled fish, it would do well along-side sushi or mildly spiced dishes.    
90 Michael Apstein Jan 7, 2020

Papargyriou Estate, Korinthos (Peloponnese, Greece) Blanc 2022 ($23):  This white is a blend of Moschoudi, also known as Muscat Blanc, and Assyrtiko.  The Moschoudi brings in tropical and floral notes ranging from honeysuckle to orange blossom while the Assyrtiko brings a healthy pop of acidity.  Winemaker Yiannis Papargyriou, who studied winemaking in Germany, has balanced the acidity of the Assyrtiko perfectly with the residual sugar.  The wine drinks dry but the acidity makes the wine incredibly versatile when pairing with food.  His studies in Germany have also likely influenced the Germanic bottle choice.  While not certified organic, Papargyriou Estate farms organically and sustainably and continues that practice in the winery.  Ultimately, Papargyriou has produced an excellent white wine that is both delicious and surprisingly complex.           
91 Vince Simmon Aug 29, 2023

Domaine Katsaros, Krania Olympus (Greece) Chardonnay 2011 ($35): I know from personal experience that if you can hang on to this Chardonnay for six months or so before opening it that the oak presence--a little jarring in youth--will have settled into an attractive addition to this soft, sultry, creamy chardonnay.  That flicker of balanced oak in the mature wine is but one of the many enticements of this sophisticated Greek pleaser.   The grapes were grown at an elevation of 2500 feet on the slopes of Mount Olympus.
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 23, 2013

Buketo, Macedonia (Greece) White Blend 2017 ($20, Cava Spiliadis Collection):  A blend of two native Greek grapes (Malagousia and Assyrtiko), and one international variety (Sauvignon Blanc) this is a mouth-wateringly delicious white wine, full of enticing flavor, with a crisp texture and an extremely satisfying finish.  Dry but rich, it seems tailor-made to accompany seafood at a spring or summer feast. 
93 Paul Lukacs Apr 24, 2018

Domaine Gerovassiliou, Macedonia (Greece) "Gerovassilou Estate" 2004 ($20, T. Edward Wines): Evangelos Gerovassilou, owner-winemaker, Bordeaux-educated, is one of Greece's most important winemakers. Before starting his own winery, he established Domaine Porto Carras' reputation when he was its winemaker. Among his many accomplishments, Gerovassilou isolated and propagated Malagousia, a forgotten indigenous variety now making some of Greece's best white wines. 2004 Gerovassilou Estate, an innovative blend of the assertive Assyrtiko and softer Malagousia, is crisp, lively, and minerally, with hints of lime and grapefruit. 91 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Kir Yianni, Macedonia (Greece) Paranga White 2013 ($14, Diamond Wine Importers): The Kir Yianni estate of northern Greece is one of the region’s top producers.  Their Paranga White is a delicious and aromatic blend of two native Greek white grapes – Roditis and Malagouzia.  It is from the rugged hills of northwestern Macedonia and is a zesty and refreshing white.  Pure lemon, green apple and peach fruit aromas are enhanced by scents of white flowers and delicate green herbs.  The flavors are juicy, pure and bright with the citrusy tones of the Roditis grapes (80%) bolstered by the rich floral and peach character of the Malagouzia (20%).  It will be a wonderful wine to enjoy this summer.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 1, 2014

Tsantalis, Macedonia (Greece) Athiri 2004 ($9, Fantis Imports): Evangelos Tsantalis is one of the three largest wineries in Greece, but it still manages to maintain a line of fine wines. The '04 Tsantalis Athiri is a light-bodied, crisp white with fresh, intense lemony aromas and flavors. It's great as an apéritif wine or with seafood. The Athiri variety, one of the oldest in Greece, oxidizes quickly, and so the wine is best when consumed in its first two years. 88 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Troupis Winery, Mantinia (Peloponnese, Greece) Assyrtiko “Pitys Ritinitis” NV ($24, DNS):  This wine notes its winemaking techniques right on the front label, stating, "Wild Ferment - Unfiltered."  One can notice a bit of pale tan colored sediment in the bottle prior to pouring.  Historically, pine resin was added to white wines in ancient Greece both as a natural anti-oxidant, and also, more passively as a byproduct of clay amphora being coated with the resin to minimize evaporative loss through the porous clay.  If the sediment is incorporated in the poured glass (either intentionally, by inverting the bottle and twirling it around prior to opening, or simply by getting one of the later glasses) the wine shows a slightly cloudy, pale amber color.  The aromas bloom from the glass with floral and spicy ginger; resinous pine; damp, chalky stone; and creamy notes.       
92 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023

Domaine Spiropoulos, Mantinia (Peloponnese Peninsula, Greece) Moschofilero 2015 ($15, Athenee Importers and Distributors):  The Moschofilero grape has a pinkish purplish skin, which explains why this wine has a delicate pink hue, not enough color for a rosé, but enough to make you wonder.  One sip, however, tells you this wine has more character than most rosés.  Delightfully cutting and crisp, it has a delicate spiciness that makes it perfect with full-flavored seafood, fried clams, or even a lobster roll.  A saline-tinged finish is mouth-watering and screams for another sip.  And look at the price!  If you’ve needed motivation to learn a little Greek, here you go. 
91 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2018

Domaine Spiropoulos, Mantinia (Peleponnese, Greece) Moschofilero 2014 ($16, Athenee Imports): Moschofilero is an aromatic grape that is most widely grown in the higher altitudes of Greece’s Peleponnese region.  Mantinia is the best sub-region for Moschofilero and Spiropoulos is a top producer of this lively and refreshing white.  The aromas are of ripe peach, jasmine, juicy apple and lemon peel. The flavors offer a range of fruit and floral nuances backed by a delectable spiciness.  It is deliciously appealing with the vivid fruits accentuated by subtle floral and herb hints.  The interplay of juicy fruit tones and tart acid lingers pleasantly at the finish.  It’s a lovely wine to sip on its own or enjoy with warm-weather fare.
90 Wayne Belding Jun 9, 2015

Tselepos, Mantinia (Greece) Moschofilero 2005 ($14, Wines We Are Importers; Fantis Foods): I owe a lot to this variety, because it was a light-bodied, extremely aromatic Moschofilero that first turned me on to the quality of modern Greek wines. The 2005 Tselepos Moschofilero, from the very cool, mountainous Peloponnese region, has intensely fragrant floral aromas, with hints of citrus--mainly orange blossom. It is dry, light to medium-bodied, and very crisp, with only 12° alcohol. It is a wine to drink when it is young, so that you can appreciate its fantastic aromas and delicious flavors. Try it with seafood or grilled sardines. 90 Ed McCarthy Jun 27, 2006

Domaine Spiropoulos, Mantinia (Peloponnese, Greece) 2004 ($11, Athenée Imports; Winebow, Inc.): Mantinia, 2000 to 3000 feet up in the mountains of the Peloponnese, is the home of Greece's most aromatic white variety, Moschofilero, and Domaine Spiropoulos produces one of the best versions. The 2004 Mantinia, 100 percent Moschofilero, is a delight; estate and organically grown, it has citrus, peach, and apricot aromas and flavors. A fine apéritif wine. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Tselepos, Mantinia (Peloponnese, Greece) Moschofilero 2018 ($17, Cava Spiliadis):  Moschofilero, a grape indigenous to the Mantinia region of the Peloponnesus, produces a floral wine, reminiscent of Muscat, though far less fragrant.  Its perfumed nature might make you think it’s sweet.  Anything but.  This one, from Tselepos, a top producer, is firm, with bracing acidity. Though it will cut through as hearty a dish as roast lamb, a better match would be Mediterranean seafood. 
89 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2019

Boutari, Mantinia (Greece) Moschofilero 2007 ($17, Terlato Wines International): At their best, wines made with the Greek grape, Moschofilero combine crisp, citrus-tinged flavors with floral aromas reminiscent of Muscat or Gewurztraminer.  This example certainly holds up its end of the bargain on the palate, where it tastes invigorating and lively.  The bouquet, however, is slightly muted, making the wine less exciting than it would be if more opulently perfumed. 87 Paul Lukacs Jul 28, 2009

Boutari, Mantinia (Greece) Moschofilero 2006 ($17, Paterno): A nice and widely-available rendition of one of Greece's greatest grapes, this wine shows pleasant notes of golden apples and peaches, with an edge of citrus fruit.  The very best examples of this grape can offer a balance of substance and freshness akin to a top Albariño, and this bottling shows hints in that direction. 84 Michael Franz Jun 26, 2007

Tselepos, Mantinia (Greece) Moschofilero 2006 ($15, Dionysos Imports): In the best vintages, this producer turns out one of the best renditions of Moschofilero in Greece, and at its best, this grape can produce wines that rival top Albariños from Spain.  Unfortunately, this 2006 release is just good, not excellent.  With fruit recalling white melons that is light- rather than medium-bodied and only moderately expressive, this is a tasty partner for lighter seafood preparations. 84 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2007

Biblia Chora, Pangeon (Macedonia, Greece) 'Olivos' 2005 ($28, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This barrel-fermented blend is comprised of equal portions of Semillon and Chardonnay. Flashy aromatics from new French oak are enticing without turning overbearing, and the rich fruit carries the oak without any drying in the finish. Flavors of ripe figs and peaches marry nicely with subtle notes of toast and vanilla, and a spicy aftertaste provides an interesting counterpoint to the soft, rounded feel of the wine. Impressive! 90 Michael Franz May 16, 2006

Biblia Chora Estate, Pangeon (Macedonia, Greece) "Ovilos" White 2005 ($30, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Blended from equal portions of Semillon and Chardonnay and entirely barrel fermented, this dramatic wine features rich fruit recalling ripe figs and peaches. Smoky, spicy wood notes are very expressive, but the wine has enough richness and depth of flavor to balance them effectively. A great choice for grilled fish or chicken dishes. 90 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Biblia Chora, Pangeon (Macedonia, Greece) 2005 ($15, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Biblia Choras proprietary white (there's also a red blended from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) is a blend of 40 percent Assyrtiko and 60 percent Sauvignon. Assyrtiko is native to the island of Santorini, where it produces some of the world's most intensely mineral whites, but this producer's efforts show that it can also produce very interesting results in other, less exotic circumstances. In this blend, Assyrtiko seems to contribute aromas of straw and smoke that work nicely with notes of melon, citrus and dried herbs lent by the Sauvignon. There's real substance and heft on the palate but also sharp definition from bright acidity in the finish, making this a highly versatile wine for simple sipping or pairing with a wide range of foods. 89 Michael Franz May 16, 2006

Biblia Chora Estate, Pangeon (Macedonia, Greece) White 2005 ($15, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Assyrtiko shows lots of aromatic intensity, with notes of smoke, straw and freshly cut grass on a base of melon and citrus fruit. Although it shows real substance and depth of fruit on the palate, a serious blast of crisp acidity provides a refreshing counterpoint in the tightly focused finish. 89 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Biblia Chora Estate, Pangeon (Macedonia, Greece) "Areti" White 2005 ($15, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Made entirely from the indigenous Assyrtiko grape (which is associated most closely with the island of Santorini but is also showing promising results in other areas), this features subtle fruit notes accented with nice nuances of grilled nuts and straw, along with prominent mineral aromas and flavors. 87 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Parparousis Estate, Patra (Peloponnese, Greece) Roditis 2005 ($17, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Rounder and softer than the excellent 2005 Roditis from Mercouri Estate, this is also a very admirable expression of a grape with strong merits. Peach fruit is ripe but still subtle in flavor, with nicely intergrated acidity. It seems akin to a very fine Pinot Blanc, and could prove just as versatile for food pairing purposes. 87 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Domaine Spiropoulos, Peloponnese (Greece) Moschofilero 2012 ($20, Athenee Importers): This is a fresh, expressive rendition of Moschofilero, one of Greece’s most impressive indigenous white varieties.  It shows appealing floral aromas as well as fruit flavors across a wide spectrum including citrus, stone fruit, and even tropical notes.  Still at a developmental stage with some unwinding to do, this is already delicious but sure to hold its quality for another year.
91 Michael Franz Jul 16, 2013

Skouras, Peloponnese (Greece) Moschofilero 2011 ($20, Diamond Importers): Greece’s Moschofilero can be light and lean, but also rich and rounded, and this delicious rendition shades toward the latter of those two poles.  If you were tasting this blind, scents of orange blossom and honeysuckle might make you wonder if you had Viognier or Albariño in your glass, but the flavors of ripe peach and apricot would likely prompt you to just drink up without worrying about the grape in question.  That would make good sense, but only if you took careful note of the lable once it was revealed, because Moschofilero, like Assyrtiko, deserves a place among the world’s great white grape varieties.
91 Michael Franz Jul 16, 2013

Antonopoulos Vineyards, Peloponnese (Greece) Mantinia 2004 ($16, Stellar Imports): A delightfully aromatic 2004 Mantinia, made entirely from Moschofilero, this shows 11.5° alcohol, and is floral, grapefruity, and irresistible on a warm summer afternoon. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Antonopoulos Vineyards, Peloponnese (Greece) "Adoli Ghis" 2004 ($14, Stellar Imports): Rare, indigenous grape varieties are featured in Antonopoulos' wines; its basic white, the 2004 Adoli Ghis, is a blend of the three native varieties: Lagorthi, Asproudes, Roditis, plus a little Chardonnay. Crisp, minerally and fragrant, with lots of flavor and great acidity. Lagorthi was saved from extinction by the late, brilliant Constantine Antonopoulos, who found it growing outside of Patras. Serve it with shellfish. 88 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Skouras, Peloponnese PGI (Greece) Moscofilero 2021 ($22, Diamond Wine Importers):  Moscofilero is a wonderfully interesting grape.  Pink or grey-skinned, like Pinot Grigio, it usually makes a floral white wine.  The aromatics make you think it will be sweet, but it’s not, which is part of the reason it is a joy to drink.  Skouras, an important producer based in Nemea in the eastern Peloponnese, does a great job with the variety.  Both edgy and fruity, the cutting crispness of their engaging 2021 makes it an excellent choice for highly flavored dishes.  A delicate hint of bitterness in the finish balances its subtle fruitiness.  Believe it or not, despite its modest 12 percent stated alcohol, its bracing acidity allows you to enjoy it with roast lamb as well.       
93 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2024

Alpha Estate, PGI Florina (Amyndeon, Greece) Malagouzia "Axia" 2013 ($15, Diamond Wine Importers): This is an aromatic and full bodied white from Macedonia in northern Greece.  Alpha Estate is a top producer in Amyndeon and particularly in the Florina subregion.  Their Axia white is drawn entirely from Malagouzia grapes and it is an eye-opening experience for those new to native Greek grapes.  Its rich aromas of apple, peach and tropical fruits are enhanced by linden flower, herb, honey and orange peel hints.  The flavors are equally rich and exotic with the luscious peach and tropical fruits backed by delicate floral, honey, rosemary and citrus peel tones.  It has a rich texture that makes it a good choice to pair with full flavored Mediterranean dishes or citrus-marinated grilled chicken.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 8, 2014

Mercouri Estate, Pisatis (Peloponnese, Greece) "Foloi" 2005 ($12, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Made entirely from the Roditis grape, this wine is light and fresh but remarkably expressive in terms of aroma and flavor. Notes of limes, straw, dried herbs and minerals are very appealing, and the interplay between ripe fruit and zesty acidity is excellent. 89 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Argyros Estate, Regional Wine of Agean (Santorini, Greece) Aidani 2005 ($18, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): This is the only wine that I've ever seen made entirely from the Aidani variety, but it sure makes me hope to see more in the future. Juicy, green melon fruit is given great linear thrust by a bright streak of citrus acidity, and interesting mineral notes in the finish make this as interesting as it is refreshing. 89 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Gentilini, Robola of Cephalonia (Greece) Robola 2004 ($14, Athenée Importers): This food-friendly wine is characterized by notes of citrus, a lovely aftertaste, and it is both creamy and crisp. It comes from the Ionian Islands, and is produced by Cephalonia's first boutique winery (established in 1984). The grapes grow on the slopes of Mt. Ainos. The winemaker, Gabrielle Beamish, is a Brit, whose obvious affinity for the increasingly rare, local Rebola grape would indicate that she's been blessed with a Greek soul. 89 Marguerite Thomas Feb 21, 2006

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko 2015 ($25, Diamond Wine Imports): Every year, springtime is heralded by the release of a new vintage of Domaine Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko. This is a consistently superb white that ages beautifully but provides a delicious tasting experience even in its youth. The 2015 vintage continues an admirable tradition. The Assyrtiko grapes grown in the volcanic soils and spare conditions of the island yield wines of considerable power and depth. The 2015 Sigalas bottling offers an exotic nose of peach, guava, Rainier cherry, honey, lemon zest and subtle herbs -- all underscored by an equally complex palate. The succulent, pure peach, citrus and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of honey, coriander, and herbs. The robust and exotic aromas and flavors and enhanced by a rich and creamy texture that allows the finish to linger long and well. Delicious now, experience shows that you can enjoy it for another 5+ years. 95 Wayne Belding Apr 12, 2016

Hatzidakis Winery, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2011 ($20, Athenee Imports): This will remove any doubts you may have about the potential of modern Greek wines.  The Hatzidakis 2012 Assyrtiko from Santorini is sensational! The bouquet reveals a plethora of exotic fruit scents -- lemon zest, peach, baked apple, apricot and pineapple -- all backed by hints of honey, subtle herbs and spices.  On the palate, the wine unfolds in a cascade of vivid fruit flavors.  First the citrus, then the apple, then the peach and apricot, all followed by the juicy ripe pineapple note.  This enchanting fruit basket is enhanced by hints of dried marjoram and honey.  The texture is rich and satisfying and the finish goes on and on.  This is a great white wine by any measure.  You should try some.
95 Wayne Belding Jul 1, 2014

Koutsoyiannopolous, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 2009 ($28, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Where do the red fruit flavors in a white dessert wine come from?  It's a mystery to me. Rieslings get them sometimes, and they add interest to this wine made solely from Assyrtiko and Aidani.  You also get the characteristic caramel, cola and milk chocolate flavors, with enough freshness to carry the sweetness.  Very good value. 500ml bottle. 95 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 20-Year NV ($120, Athenee Importers): This very intense wine blasts caramel and milk chocolate into your mouth with mouthwatering freshness.  The body is rich, but you really only notice that several sips in because of that intensity.  The only hint of its age is a hint of ash on the finish. It's pricey, especially on account of being sold in a 500ml bottle, but a thimble-sized glass of this is both dessert and a wake-up call. 94 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2017 ($31, Diamond Wine Importers):  Domaine Sigalas’ Santorini Assyrtiko is a consistently superb white that ages beautifully but provides a delicious tasting experience even in its youth.  The 2017 vintage continues an admirable string of winemaking successes.  The Assyrtiko grapes grown in the volcanic soils and spare conditions of the island yield richly-textured wines of considerable depth.  The 2017 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko reflects the ripeness of the harvest.  It shows scents of lemon zest, peach, Rainier cherry, honey, and subtle herbs.  On the palate, pure citrus, peach and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of honey and herbs.  The layers of full and exotic flavors are underscored by a bracing, crisp acidity.  A recent tasting of the 2010 Sigalas Santorini shows that this wine will develop nicely for several more years in the cellar. 
94 Wayne Belding Sep 18, 2018

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko 2022 ($46, Diamond Wine Importers):  Because of the spare volcanic soils and harsh growing conditions on the Aegean island of Santorini, many Assyrtiko vineyards are trained low to the ground, in a basket form known as kouloura.  This protects the vine during flowering and from the sometimes fierce winds that affect the island.  The basket training also protects the grapes from sunburn and allows moisture from morning mists to nourish the vines.  Yields are low and the Assyrtiko grapes retain a high acidity.  The result is ageable wines of depth and complexity.  The 2022 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko shows scents of lemon, peach, pineapple, mango and herbs.  The flavors are pure and complex, with rich lemon, peach, apricot and tropical fruits underlain by elements of honey and herbs.  The low yields result in a richly-textured wine backed by a bracing, crisp acidity.  It is a versatile food companion and will cellar well for another 5+ years.        
94 Wayne Belding Aug 8, 2023

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko 2020 ($46, Diamond Wine Importers):  Domaine Sigalas’ Santorini Assyrtiko is a legend among Greek wines – resetting one’s expectation of what Greek wines and native grape varieties could be.  It is a consistently superb white that ages beautifully but provides a delicious tasting experience even now.   Because of the spare volcanic soils and harsh growing conditions, many Assyrtiko vineyards are trained low to the ground, in basket form.  This protects from the fierce winds and allows moisture from morning mists to nourish the vines. There is no phylloxera on the island and some of the vine roots are hundreds of years old.  Yields are low and the Assyrtiko grapes retain a high acidity.  The result is ageable, richly-textured wines of depth and complexity.  The 2020 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko shows scents of pineapple, lemon, peach, mango and sun-dried herbs.  The flavors are pure and complex, with rich lemon, peach, apricot and tropical fruits underlain by elements of honey and herbs.  The low yields result in a richly-textured wine backed by a bracing, crisp acidity.  Delicious now, it will age nicely for several years.           
94 Wayne Belding Sep 6, 2022

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko 2018 ($39, Diamond Wine Importers Ltd):  Domaine Sigalas’ Santorini Assyrtiko is becoming a legend among Greek wines.  It is a consistently superb white that ages beautifully but provides a delicious tasting experience even in its youth.  The 2018 vintage continues an admirable string of winemaking successes.  The Assyrtiko vines grown in Santorini’s deep volcanic soils yield small quantities of concentrated fruit.  The happy result is richly-textured wines of considerable depth and complexity.  The 2018 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko shows scents of lemon, peach, pineapple, honey, and subtle herbs.  On the palate, pure citrus, peach and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of honey and herbs.  The layering of fruit and herb flavors gives the wine a rich texture, underscored by a bracing, crisp acidity.  This wine will develop nicely for several more years in the cellar.   
94 Wayne Belding Sep 10, 2019

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018 ($36):  My WRO colleague Wayne Belding MS has already beaten me to the punch in reviewing this vintage of Sigalas Assyrtiko, but the wine is so bloody good that it deserves to be called back for an encore.  Always among the best bottlings of this great variety from the eye-poppingly beautiful island of Santorini, the 2018 is uncanny in its ability to show both richness and vivacity.  Medium-plus in body, it is very broad and deep in flavor, with stone fruit and citrus notes riding in perfect tandem with outstanding acidity and finishing with extremely persistent saline minerality.  I buy this wine virtually every year, and I always vow to save half of the bottles I purchase for enjoyment four or five years later, and always fail to find a sufficiently inaccessible spot in my cellar to enable that to actually happen.  The 2018 seems destined to this same fate, as it could hardly be more delicious now, though there’s no doubt that it holds potential for positive development.     
94 Michael Franz Oct 29, 2019

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko 2019 ($44, Diamond Wine Importers):  I eagerly look forward to the annual release of this wine.  Domaine Sigalas’ Santorini Assyrtiko is a legend among Hellenic wines – resetting the expectation of what Greek wines could be.  It is a consistently superb white that ages beautifully but provides a delicious tasting experience even in its youth.  The 2019 vintage continues the string of winemaking successes that propelled Assyrtiko into the wine world’s consciousness.  Because of the spare volcanic soils and harsh growing conditions, many Assyrtiko vineyards are trained low to the ground, in basket form.  This protects from the fierce winds and allows moisture from morning mists to nourish the vines.  Yields are low and the Assyrtiko grapes retain a high acidity.  The result is ageable, richly-textured wines of depth and complexity.  The 2019 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko shows scents of Meyer lemon, baked apple, mango and sun-dried herbs.  The flavors are pure and complex, with rich lemon, apple, apricot and tropical fruits underlain by elements of honey and herbs.  The low yields lead to concentration in the wine, with a lovely rich texture underscored by a bracing, crisp acidity.  This wine will develop nicely for several more years in the cellar. 
94 Wayne Belding Jul 21, 2020

Estate Argyros, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2022 ($45, Diamond Wine Importers):  Argyros, an old family winery founded in 1903, has a stellar reputation on Santorini.  After tasting this racy Assyrtiko, I see why.  Many consider Assyrtiko, especially when grown on Santorini, to be Greece’s finest white wine.  I don’t have a dog in that fight, but if they are all like Argyros’ 2022 I understand the claim.   The soil on Santorini, a tiny Aegean island, is lava and sand.  The vines here really struggle against the wind, so much so, that they are planted woven basket-like in depressions to shield them. The riveting 2022 Argyros Santorini combines lip-smacking minerality with uplifting saline acidity.  You can almost taste the lava as an attractive hint of bitterness in the finish.  Drink it with grilled fish, of course, but also, as they do in Greece, with roast lamb because the acidity cuts right through the meat.          
94 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2024

Gai’a, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko “Thalassitis” 2021 ($41, Winebow):  Assyrtiko is a native Greek grape variety that offers its best renditions from the Aegean island of Santorini.  The Thalassitis Santorini Assyrtiko from Gai’a is a delicious example of this classic Greek grape.  This is a pure and complex white that can be enjoyed now or stashed away in the cellar for a few years.  The island of Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving an assemblage of recently-formed volcanic rocks in its wake.  It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and spare growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth.  The 2021 Gai’a Thalassitis Assyrtiko shows aromas of peach, apple, lemon peel, tropical fruit and spice.  The flavors are pure and exciting, with peach, apple, lemon and pineapple fruit flavors underlain by subtle honey and spice tones.  Its rich texture and complexity make this Assyrtiko a truly fine wine.     
94 Wayne Belding Sep 26, 2023

Gai’a Estate, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko “Thalassitis” 2018 ($35, Craft + Estate / Winebow):  Gai’a (pronounced Yay-ya) Estate’s 2018 Assyrtiko Santorini “Thalassitis” has sea salt and lemon zest aromas that immediately transport you to the beaches of Santorini.  The wine is seriously thirst-quenching, with the perfect amount of juiciness and crisp acidity that are needed to foil these hot summer days.  It has the distinct minerality you’d expect from a volcanic island with a briny edge.  The delicate lemon, lime, and honeysuckle flavors give it a bright and lingering finish.    
94 Miranda Franco Jul 28, 2020

Gaia, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 2002 ($45, Athenee Importers): An intense chocolate-cola dessert wine from the intellectual of Santorini, Gaia owner/winemaker Yiannis Paraskevopolous.  He teaches winemaking in Athens and draws his interns from his best students, and his winery is not next to the beach, but actually on the beach, which allows them to sunbathe between punchdowns.  Gaia makes some of the most interesting wines on Santorini and this is a sweet introduction to the brand.  Price is estimated. 94 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 2004 ($35, Diamond Importers): A very well-balanced Vinsanto with notes of caramel, coffee and cola.  This is sweet but not cloying, so you can feel satiated early but have as many sips as you like.  500ml bottle.

94 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Artemis Karamolegos, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 2004 ($32, Hellas Import Limited): One of the spiciest Vinsantos you'll find, with cinnamon and cumin notes to go with cola.  Quite rich, with some mature notes of ash on the finish.  The complexity makes it well worth seeking out.  500ml bottle. 93 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Canava Chryssou Tselepos, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2015 ($28): Sometimes our noses can deceive us.  Proof of this comes clearly in this glass of soft lemon and lime aromas that suggest a pleasant if innocuous quaff.  This wine is anything but, delivering powerful lemon and spiced stonefruit, with granite minerality and a crisp, dry finish that maintains the flavor impression long after it leaves the mouth.  Absolutely worth your efforts to find.
93 Rich Cook Sep 13, 2016

Canava Roussos, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 2001 ($38, Vingreco Wines): Cola is the dominant flavor in this moderately rich wine, with pleasing notes of dried cherry and caramel, and enough freshness to carry the sugar.  Just 9.8% alcohol, lower than the norm.  500ml bottle. 93 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2016 ($27, Diamond Wine Importers): Domaine Sigalas’ Santorini Assyrtiko is a consistently superb white that ages beautifully but provides a delicious tasting experience even in its youth.  The 2016 vintage continues an admirable tradition.  The Assyrtiko grapes grown in the volcanic soils and spare conditions of the island yield richly-textured wines of considerable depth.  The 2016 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko shows scents of lemon zest, apricot, Rainier cherry, honey, and fresh herbs.  On the palate, pure citrus, apricot and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of honey and herbs.  The full and exotic flavors and given lift by a bracing, crisp acidity.  A recent tasting of the 2010 Sigalas Santorini shows that this wine will develop nicely for another five years in the cellar.
93 Wayne Belding Aug 8, 2017

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko / Athiri "A a" 2017 ($23, Diamond Wine Importers):  From ancient vineyards (planted over 3000 years ago) this charming white wine is both steely and full flavored (you might detect notes of honey and citrus, along with stony minerality).  It is beautifully balanced, with cleansing acidity on the finish.  It makes a beautiful aperitif, and also partners well with seafood and shellfish.  Made from Assyrtiko 75% and Athiri 25%.  
93 Marguerite Thomas Dec 4, 2018

Santo, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko 2019 ($25, Diamond Wine Importers):  Santo is one of the biggest producers in Santorini, with a history dating back to 1947.  Today it represents some 1,200 grape growers across the island.  The Santo 2019 Assyrtiko is grown in volcanic soils in the villages of Pyrgos and Imerovigli.  A vast array of aromas rush forward in the glass, including lemon, citrus zest, grapefruit, and honeysuckle.  The palate is invigoratingly fresh and focused with a building mineral element against a vibrant backbone of acidity.  It has aging potential and an overall memorable character unique to Santorini.      
93 Miranda Franco Aug 31, 2021

Santo Winery, Santorini (Greece) "Aspa" 2015 ($17, Diamond Importers):  I love the white wines of Santorini so much that I am chronically incapable of walking past them in a retail shop without buying them.  Yet, for some unknown reason, I've never encountered this beauty, which was sent to me as a press sample for review.  It is a totally convincing wine with excellent concentration and richness, but also lots of inner energy thanks to excellent acidity and intense minerality running through the finish.  Blended from 75% Assyrtiko, 15% Athiri and 10% Aidani, it spends 3 months in French oak, though it shows no overtly wood aroma or flavor.  At $17, it is quite simply a steal. 
93 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Santo Wines, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2016 ($18, Diamond Importers): I firmly believe that Assyrtiko from the volcanic island of Santorini is among the world’s greatest white wines, and I seek it out at every opportunity.  That being the case, I really don’t know how this one managed to escape my attention until now, but I am certainly glad to have finally encountered it.  This rendition from the 2016 vintage shows the two key elements that Santorini Assyrtiko needs to fulfill its mission, namely, very fresh acidity, plus intense mineral notes in this finish to display the wine’s unique place of origin.  To those two elements, this adds truly exceptional concentration, achieving medium-plus body with an abundance of rich fruit.  Yet I employ the term “rich” simply as a descriptor of the wine’s mouth-feel, not its overall impression, which is energetic despite all of its breadth and substance on the palate.  Absolutely terrific juice.  Buy on sight.
93 Michael Franz Aug 1, 2017

Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) 2004 ($15, Athena Importing Co.): This stunning wine is the finest Santorini I have ever tasted. Crafted on the island of Santorini from the Assyrtiko grape, it is phenomenally intense in flavor and remarkably persistent in the finish, yet light in body. Subtle citrus fruit is enveloped with notes of smoke and minerals. Although a wine from 2004, this remains so fresh that you could believe it was bottled yesterday, and a bottle that I kept refrigerated but uncorked didn't deteriorate in the least over a span of 48 hours. I'd have liked to prolong that experiment, but the wine was too delicious for me to keep my hands off of it. 93 Michael Franz May 2, 2006

Vassaltis, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018 ($42, Diamond Wine Importers):  Assyrtiko is a native Greek grape variety that shows its best when drawn from old vineyards on the Aegean island of Santorini.  For those unfamiliar with the grape, the Santorini Assyrtiko from Vassaltis provides a delicious introduction.  This is a pure and complex white that can be enjoyed now or cellared for 3 to 5 years.  The island of Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving an assemblage of recently-formed volcanic rocks in its wake.  It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and spare growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth.  The 2018 Vassaltis Assyrtiko shows aromas of apple, peach, citrus peel, honey and spice.  The flavors are pure, lively and complex, with peach, apple, lemon and tropical fruit flavors enhanced by subtle honey, herb and spice tones.  Its rich texture and lifted, refreshing finish make the Vassaltis Assyrtiko a memorable white wine.       
93 Wayne Belding Jun 15, 2021

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) Vin Santo "Mezzo" 2000 ($36, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Although Vin Santo is widely associated with Tuscany, many on Santorini argue that originated there, and the European Union found enough credibility to this contention to authorize the use of the term for wines such as this. The grapes were dried for six days in the sun after harvesting, and the wine then spent five full years in second-fill oak barrels. It features a fantastic bouquet of golden raisins, exotic spices and dried apricots, followed by penetrating, persistent flavors that are driven by abundant acidity. A fantastic Vin Santo! 92 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Artemis Karamolegos, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 2006 ($29, Hellas Import Limited): What a difference vintage makes, even in a dessert wine. This is a more standard version, with cola and caramel flavors and nice freshness. Good value, even in a 500ml bottle.

92 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2012 ($23, Diamond Wine Importers): This is a complex white from the volcanic soils of Santorini.  Its exotic nose of apple, pineapple, Rainier cherry, lemon zest, lanolin, wax and honeysuckle is underscored by an equally complex palate.  The succulent, pure fruit flavors are backed by hints of honey, cream, and subtleties of sage and marjoram.  All this power and complexity is underlain by a rich texture and a finish that lingers and entices.  If you have not tried Assyrtiko, this is a great introduction to the variety.
92 Wayne Belding Mar 18, 2014

Gai’a, Santorini (Greece) “Thalassitis” 2008 ($26, Athenee Importers):  In the brief 15 years since its founding in 1994, Gai’a has become one of Greece’s top producers.  Their Thalassitis, made entirely from the Assyrtiko grape, is clean and bracing with a lava-infused minerality.  It has a lovely firmness and incredible persistence and intensity without being heavy.  This distinctive wine is a good foil for grilled shrimp with a garlic and herb or other full-flavored sauce. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010

Gaia Estate, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko “Thalassitis” 2015 ($30, Winebow): This is a very refreshing, relatively light white wine…so it wouldn’t be a good choice for winter drinking, right?  Wrongo!  There is no such thing as a bad time to drink excellent Assyrtiko from the Greek island of Santorini, and given that winter is prime time for oysters, that’s especially true now and in the months ahead.  Besides, anyone who enjoys fish and lighter preparations of chicken presumably continues eating those foods year-round, and you could hardly do better than pairing them with this wine.  It is fairly light in weight, but that doesn’t make it a “lightweight,” as its intense minerality gives it a lot of flavor impact and a very long finish.  If I missed on the score for this, I’m off on the low side.
92 Michael Franz Nov 29, 2016

Hatzidakis, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 2003 ($40, Trireme Imports): A very nice dessert wine, not unlike a chocolate ice cream Coke float, with its flavors of cola, caramel and milk chocolate, but with much more concentration than a big sudsy mug.  Did you know Coca-Cola has more acidity than just about any wine on the planet?  This wine is 80% Assyrtiko, which is one grape that's a contender to be a runner-up.  500ml bottle.

92 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Santo Wines, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 2004 ($40, Constellation Wines): Santo Wines is the co-op on Santorini, has the largest production and thus makes several versions of Vinsanto.  I tried the 4-year and 8-year blends, but my favorite was this vintage version because it's leanest. The others are a little too syrupy.  Fortunately Constellation has good taste, as this is the only Vinsanto exported by Santo to the US.  Just because it's leaner than the others doesn't mean it's lean.  In fact, it's Madeira-like with great freshness, carrying more sweetness and richness than you initially notice, and the characteristic cola and caramel flavors.  Wide distribution channels mean this might be the Vinsanto easiest to acquire, which is fine because it's a very good introduction.  500ml bottle. 92 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Santo Wines, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2022 ($29, Diamond Wine Importers):  Assyrtiko is a native Greek grape variety that shows its best from the Aegean island of Santorini.  Santo Wines is a cooperative winery founded in 1911, and is the largest producer on the island.  The island of Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving an assemblage of recently-formed volcanic rocks in its wake.  It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and spare growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth.  The 2022 Santo Wines Assyrtiko shows aromas of apple, pineapple, honey, lemon peel and spice.  The flavors are pure, lively and complex, with apple, lemon and tropical fruit flavors underlain by subtle honey, herb and spice tones.  It’s a versatile white that can pair well with many of your favorite fish and fowl recipes.           
92 Wayne Belding Dec 12, 2023

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2017 ($27, Winebow):  Assyrtiko is a native Greek grape variety that offers its best renditions from the Aegean island of Santorini.  The Santorini Assyrtiko from Argyros Estate provides a delicious introduction to this classic Greek grape.  This is a pure and complex white that can be enjoyed now or stashed away in the cellar for a few years.  The 2017 vintage continues a tradition of quality production.  The island of Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving an assemblage of recently-formed volcanic rocks in its wake.  It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and spare growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth.  The 2017 Argyros Estate Assyrtiko shows aromas of peach, apple, honey, lemon peel and spice.  The flavors are pure and exciting, with peach, apple, lemon and tropical fruit flavors underlain by subtle honey, herb and spice tones.  Its rich texture and complexity make the Argyros Estate Santorini Assyrtiko a most satisfying white wine.   
91 Wayne Belding Oct 22, 2019

Canava Roussos, Santorini (Greece) Vinsanto 2006 ($25, Vingreco Wines): One of the lightest of Vinsantos, with the characteristic cola and caramel notes and a delicate finish.  You'd never guess it spent 3 1/2 years in barrel.  Tasting is different from drinking and I usually found the richer versions more impressive to have a couple of sips, but if you wanted more than that, this one might be more appropriate.  500ml bottle. 91 W. Blake Gray Mar 5, 2013

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko + Athiri 2017 ($24, Diamond Wine Importers):  Greek wines are becoming better known, and with good reason.  They exhibit a style the combines richness and refreshment in a most enticing way.  This wine is a blend of two native varieties grown in the volcanic soils of Santorini, an island in the Aegean Sea.  It shows an exotic nose of honeysuckle, lemon, apple and melon.  The flavors exhibit pure apple, honey, melon, and tropical fruits backed by hints of citrus peel and subtle herbs.  It has a rich texture and a lifted and lively finish.  The elegant floral tones of the Athiri combine with the depth and mineral character of the Assyrtiko to give it an attractive style that is well worth a try. 
91 Wayne Belding Feb 5, 2019

Gavalas Winery, Santorini (Greece) “Santorini” 2011 ($20):  “Santorini” is the name for blended white wines made on the Aegean island of Santorini, south of the Greek mainland. Assyrtiko is the major grape of Santorini blends, with lesser amounts of Aidani and Athiri.  Gavalas’ 2011 Santorini is 90 percent Assyrtiko and 10 percent Aidani; it is a penetrating, high-acid wine with a saline charm that comes from the vineyards’ close proximity to the sea, yet there is a fruity depth in citrus and apple flavors.  A nutty, stony quality comes from grapes grown in volcanic soils. 91 Linda Murphy Nov 6, 2012

Gavalas Winery, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko 2022 ($32, Dionysos Imports):  The 2022 Gavalas Assyrtiko transports you to Santorini with aromas of sea spray, citrus blossom, orange zest, lemon curd, and pear.  The wine is concentrated and voluminous on the palate with coruscating acidity.  It delivers massive swells of citrus that simmer with crushed volcanic minerals and provide a lingering and mouthwatering finish.  This is an excellent introduction to the variety and the terroir, and it is only starting to show its potential.  If you love dry white wines, this is one to add to your repertoire.    
91 Miranda Franco Sep 26, 2023

Greek Wine Cellars, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko “Flowers” 2020 ($29, Prestige Beverage Group):  The island of Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving an assemblage of volcanic rocks in its wake.  It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and spare growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth.  Assyrtiko is a native Greek grape variety that shows its best when drawn from old vineyards in this difficult climate.  For those unfamiliar with the grape, the Santorini Assyrtiko from Greek Wine Cellars (formerly known as Kourtaki Wines) provides a delicious introduction.  This is an invigorating white that can be enjoyed now or cellared for 3 to 5 years.  The 2020 “Flowers” Assyrtiko shows aromas of peach, apple, honey, citrus peel and spice.  The flavors are pure and complex, with apple, peach, lemon and tropical fruit flavors enhanced by subtle honey, herb and spice elements.  Its rich texture is a hallmark of the Assyrtiko variety.  It is a versatile companion for a wide range of foods as well.           
91 Wayne Belding Jul 26, 2022

Vassaltis, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2016 ($34, Diamond Wine Importers):  Not ready for summer to be over?  Here's a glass that will put you right back in it with fresh aromas and flavors of citrus, nectarine and stony minerality, finishing with a nice honeyed note that isn't cloying thanks to racy acidity that blossoms and extends the experience.  A white delight. 91 Rich Cook Oct 17, 2017

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) Assertiko 2008 ($25, Athenee Importers):  Santorini, a crescent-shaped Mediterranean island and arguably Greece’s most famous wine producing area, could be the most inhospitable place in the world to grow grapes. The soil contains virtually no nitrogen.  There is hardly a drop of rain--and irrigation is prohibited. Strong winds blow assault the terrain in the summer and can whisk away anything that is not firmly attached to the ground. Despite these conditions--or perhaps because of them--the Assyrtiko grape thrives.  The island remains phylloxera-free, and hence, all of the vines are ungrafted. They are trained into a basket-weave pattern to protect the grapes.  Obviously all of the vineyard work is done by hand and explains, in part, why these wines are expensive--but also distinctive.  The Argyros Estate, founded more than a century ago and now led by third generation Yiannis Argyros, makes a particularly fine example of Assyrtiko.  This 2008 has notes of freshly cut lime to complement an alluring almost lava-like minerality.  You can practically taste the soil.  Lively, with a laser-like focus, it cuts cleanly through richest of seafood. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 1, 2010

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Aegean Islands, Greece) Assyrtiko 2014 ($21, Athenee Imports): The Santorini Assyrtiko from Argyros Estate provides a delicious introduction to this classic Greek grape.  This is a pure and complex white that can age beautifully, but also a delicious treat even on release.  Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving a range of recently formed volcanic rock in its wake.  It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and spare growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth.  The 2014 Argyros Estate Assyrtiko offers a bouquet of peach, apple, honey, lemon peel and spice.  The flavors are pure and exciting, with peach, mango, apple and lemon fruit flavors underlain by subtle honey, herb and spice tones.  It will provide great tasting enjoyment for the next five years.
90 Wayne Belding Jun 9, 2015

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) "Atlantis" 2005 ($14, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Composed predominantly of this island's great Assyrtiko grape with dashes of Athiri and Aidani, it shows impressively substantial fruit that has a nice impression of fruity sweetness despite a dry finish. Flavors of golden apples and mandarin oranges are structured with bright dash of lime and augmented by mineral notes. 90 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) "Canava" 2005 ($17, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Made entirely of Assyrtiko with no wood employed, this shows some fruit but is most impressive for its marvelously expressive, exotic notes of straw, smoke and minerals. With excellent acidity lending form to flavors that are substantial and persistent, this is a very serious wine. 90 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko/ Athiri 2009 ($19, Diamond Importers):  A blend of two indigenous white Greek grapes, 75% Assyrtiko and 25% Athiri, from the sun-washed island of Santorini, this is a steely, mineral-laden wine that tastes crisp and bracing--not at all unlike a youthful Chablis.  Past vintages have shown the ability to age well, developing a richer mouth feel and added complexity with three to five (and maybe more) years in bottle.  This 2009 is thus a wine to drink now as well as to cellar. 90 Paul Lukacs May 31, 2011

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) "Oia" 2004 ($15, Wines We Are Importers): The volcanic island of Santorini is the best place to grow Greece's great white variety, Assyrtiko, and Domaine Sigalas is its most important producer. Paris Sigalas makes two lines of Assyrtiko, one unoaked, the other barrel-fermented and barrel-aged. The 2004 Santorini Oia (90 percent unoaked Assyrtiko; 10 percent Aidani) is intense, minerally, and concentrated; I loved it with grilled shrimp. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko Athiri 2013 ($19, Diamond Wine Importers): This is a blend of two native varieties (Assyrtiko and Athiri) from the volcanic soils of Santorini.  It shows an exotic nose of honeysuckle, lemon, apple and melon.  The flavors exhibit pure apple, melon, and tropical fruits backed by hints of honey, lemon zest and subtle herbs.  It has a lifted and lively character that is not as powerful as Sigalas’ 100% Assyrtiko.  The elegant floral tones of the Athiri, however, give it an attractive style all its own.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 15, 2014

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2012 ($21, Diamond Importers, Inc): Assyrtiko, an ancient grape indigenous to the Aegean island of Santorini, is a name worth remembering because the grapes produce a wine ideally suited to flavorful seafood.  Domaine Sigalas’ is spicy and mineraly, with an almost bitter finish.  You can almost taste the island’s volcanic soil.  A mid-weight wine, it’s just what you need with bold seafood fare.
89 Michael Apstein Oct 1, 2013

Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) "Barrel" 2004 ($18, Wines We Are Importers): The 2004 Santorini Barrel is quite full-bodied and less edgy than the unoaked '04. Both Assyrtikos age extremely well; I tasted the Oia back to 1996 and the Barrel back to 1994, and all were in good shape. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) 2006 ($20, Diamond Importers): Made with Assyrtiko grapes and vinified in stainless steel, this is a vibrant white, filled with clean, crisp fruit flavors undergirded with Chablis-like minerality.  Much like that famed French wine, it should be a great partner for clams, oysters, and other shellfish. 89 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) 2005 ($20, Diamond Importers): Offering charm aplenty, this white wine exudes a beautiful bouquet of quince blossoms and other white flowers (kidonitsa means quince in Greece).  It's pleasantly dry on the palate, and finishes on a crisp, lemony note.  (Planning a trip to the Greek isles?  Don't miss a visit to the attractive Sigalas tasting room and café overlooking the azure Agean Sea). 89 Marguerite Thomas Apr 3, 2007

Argyros Estate, Santorini (Greece) Estate Assyrtiko 2005 ($24, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Those who enjoy oak notes in their whites will perhaps prefer this all-Assyrtiko wine to the "Canava" bottling, and though it is quite good, I don't find it as distinctive or interesting. Spicy wood notes work well enough with the smoky, mineral character of the grape, but they also obscure them to some extent. 87 Michael Franz Jun 13, 2006

Santo Wines, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018 ($22):  Although the best expression of Assyrtiko is from Santorini, not all Santorini Assyrtiko express the saline minerality similarly.  Though grape and site is important, producer remains the critical element when selecting a wine, here and elsewhere.  This Assyrtiko, one of four, from Santo Wines, a 1,200-member cooperative established on the island in 1947, is perfectly fine, crisp and clean, with citrus-y rather than saline notes.  Lacking a punch of minerality, it just doesn’t display the full potential of that grape grown on Santorini.  It’s like Santorini Assyrtiko on training wheels.  Given its price and its character, I suspect it’s their “entry” level Assyrtiko.  It’s a good introduction to what the grape has to offer.  
87 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2019

Gaia, Santorini AOC (Greece) Assyrtiko 'Wild Ferment' 2010 ($35, Athenee): Gaia's "wild ferment" Assyrtiko is pure pleasure from the nose to the palate. The aromatics show notes of white flower and honey, while on the palate the wine offers a hint of tangerine/citrus that is as exotic as it is delicious. Bone dry and with a touch of inviting minerality, this is an well balanced, impressive white from the island of Santorini that will pair beautifully with grilled fish or steamed shellfish. 93 Robert Whitley Sep 17, 2013

Artemis Karamolegos Winery, Santorini DOP (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018 ($28):   Assyrtiko is Greece’s flagship white grape.  Though its best expression is when it’s grown on the island of Santorini, it has become so popular that growers are planting it throughout Greece.  This stellar example delivers the quintessential saline minerality for which the Santorini version is known.  Piercing and lively, it has good body and is a superb match for Mediterranean or Atlantic or Pacific seafood.  You know it’s serious stuff by its gorgeous length.  It easily cuts through a tomato-based fish stew.    
92 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2019

Gai’a Wines, Santorini DOP (Greece) Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2018 ($38, Winebow):  Gai’a, a leading producer of Greek wines, makes several wines from the Assyrtiko grape grown on Santorini.  They are probably best known for their Assyrtiko labeled Thalassitis, which is blended from several vineyards on the island. This one, however, labeled Wild Ferment, comes exclusively from a single vineyard, Pyrgos, according to their website. It receives brief, 12 hours, of skin contact and then batches ferment with native yeast in stainless steel tanks and barrels made from French or American oak, and Acacia.  The winemaker selects the best batches for this wine. It’s a rounder, more suave version of Assyrtiko than the norm, while still capturing the grapes minerality and verve.  It trades Assyrtiko’s traditional vibrant energy for a more velvety texture.  Still tight, I would give it a few years of bottle age to allow it to shine as I’m sure it will given its impeccable balance.  
92 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2019

Tselepos, Santorini PDO (Greece) Assyrtiko "Canava Chrissou" Vieilles Vignes 2016 ($35):  Prices of Assyrtiko from Santorini, rapidly becoming the signature white wine from Greece, have always been higher than other Greek white wines because of the labor-intensive farming involved.  Farmers plant the basket-like vines in holes to protect them from the winds.  What’s worse is that prices will continue to rise because of tourist development of the island.  That said, this wine is a bargain for the pleasure it delivers.  It also demonstrates that Assyrtiko, in the best hands, needs some time in the bottle to develop, similar to white Burgundy.  There is a glorious combination of elegantly textured minerality, softened just a bit by age, and invigorating citrus acidity.  The patina of maturity and the energy of the wine is enthralling.   
95 Michael Apstein Jan 7, 2020

Gai’a, Santorini PDO (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko “Thalassitis" 2019 ($35, Winebow):  Assyrtiko is a native Greek grape variety that offers its best renditions from the Aegean island of Santorini.  The Thalassitis Santorini Assyrtiko from Gai’a is a delicious example of this classic Greek grape.  This is a pure and complex white that can be enjoyed now or stashed away in the cellar for a few years.  The island of Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving an assemblage of recently-formed volcanic rocks in its wake.  It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and spare growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth.  The 2019 Gai’a Thalassitis Assyrtiko shows aromas of peach, apple, lemon peel, tropical fruit and spice.  The flavors are pure and exciting, with peach, apple, lemon and pineapple fruit flavors underlain by subtle honey and spice tones.  Its rich texture and complexity make the Gai’a Thalassitis Santorini Assyrtiko a most satisfying white wine.     
94 Wayne Belding May 4, 2021

Hatzidakis, Santorini PDO (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko "Cuvée No. 15" 2018 ($60, Dionysos Imports):  The late Haridimos Hatzidakis brought fame to Santorini, Greek wines, particularly to the ancient Assyrtiko grape.  The Hatzidakis "Cuvée n°15" is more decadent and riper than many Santorini whites.  This 100 percent Assytriko has rich layers of green apples, yellow peach, green pear, salted lemon rind, seaspray, and citrus blossoms.  So broadly pleasing is this wine that you’ll find yourself wondering what won't go with this wine. This will keep maturing into a beautifully composed Assyrtiko over the next 3 to 5 years.        
92 Miranda Franco Dec 29, 2020

Boutari, Santorini PDO (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018 ($64, Terlato Wines International):  Boutari, founded in Naoussa in Macedonia in 1879 and is one of the best-known producers of Greek wines, started making Assyrtiko on Santorini about 30 years ago.  They wisely put the phonetic pronunciation of the grape name, which may be unfamiliar to Americans, on the back label.  (In my opinion, other producers would be wise to follow suit because if you can’t pronounce a wine it’s unlikely you’ll order it.)  It’s an excellent introduction to Assyrtiko from Santorini because it’s more accessible at this youthful stage than many.  Though not as steely and mineral-y as some other renditions, it nonetheless conveys those qualities.  A bright, citrus-like tang in the finish amplifies its charms and makes you come back for more.  I can’t explain the price, since it is roughly twice the price of the 2017 vintage, according to wine-searcher.com. 
89 Michael Apstein Jan 7, 2020

Canava Chryssou, Tselepos Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2015 ($22): The beauty of assyrtiko from the Greek island of Santorini is its purity and freshness. This expression offers intense notes of citrus and a stony minerality that is seductive and mouth-watering, with excellent balance. Serve it with simply grilled fish, a pinch of sea salt and a squirt of lemon.
92 Robert Whitley Sep 6, 2016

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