|
|
 |
Champagne:
Sparkling:
Krug, Champagne (France) Grande Cuvee, 167 ème Edition, Brut NV ($278, Moët Hennessy USA):  Krug was founded by Joseph Krug in November 1843. Today, scion of the sixth generation, Olivier Krug, directs oversight of this historic house. This blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 18% Pinot Meunier displays the complexity that comes from the 42% addition of reserve wines from previous vintages, typical of the Krug approach. In the mouth, the wine is rich, round and supple, yet crisp. The finish lingers for minutes, leaving the impression of elegance and finesse. The price suggests it is destined for special occasions.
98 Rebecca Murphy Apr 23, 2024
Krug, Champagne (France) Grande Cuvee, 171 ème Edition Grande Cuvee, Brut NV ($278, Moët Hennessy USA):  Joseph Krug created the Grand Cuvee to highlight the qualities of the best wines of each year. 171 eme Edition refers to the 171 first time the Grand Cuvee was produced. Each year, the wine is created to reflect the particular qualities of that harvest. This cuvee contains 45% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 18% Pinot Meunier, plus reserve wines from12 different years dating from 2000 to 2015. It is an elegant, yet powerful wine with tiny, energetic bubbles to lure your nose toward the glass to admire the aromas and flavors of ripe apple, pear, and citrus, with floral notes. It is lively, dry, and crisp in the mouth where the flavors will linger.
98 Rebecca Murphy Apr 23, 2024
Krug, Champagne (France) Brut 2011 ($439, Moët Hennessy USA):  Founder Joseph Krug’s vision of a vintage-dated wine was “according to the circumstances.” Julie Cavil, Cellar Master, described 2011 as a year with reversed seasons with summer heat in spring and spring rains and cooler temperatures in summer. Flowering of the vines occurred three weeks later than usual. The first four weeks of harvest experienced summer heat then rain with a drop in temperature. Cavil must have had her hands full, but this bubbly made of 46% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 17% Pinot Meunier displayed the typical finesse and elegance that marks all Krug Champagnes. Tiny bubbles herald an explosion of brioche and spice, accompanied by round, warm flavors of toast and hazelnuts, with a lingering mouth-filling finish.
96 Rebecca Murphy Apr 23, 2024
Back to Top
Loire Valley:
White:
Domaine Vincent Careme, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Le Clos” 2021 ($35, Cape Classics):  Domain Vincent Careme’s 2021 Le Clos Vouvray is classic and pretty. At first whiff, the wine shows the wooly, funky note stereotypical of Chenin Blanc, but the scent is refined and delicate, followed by sumptuous aromas of mangoes and stone fruit. In the mouth, the wine is punchier, with bright yellow apple and lemon character. This full bodied, textural wine fades to a staying, bitter citrus finish.
92 John McDermott Apr 23, 2024
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer:
White:
Staffelter Hof, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (Germany) Riesling Feinherb "Paradies" 2020 ($20, Bowler Wine):  The 2020 Staffelter Hof Riesling, with its refreshing off-dry profile, beckons with an enticing aroma of white peach, green apple, and pear puree. A hint of creaminess lends depth to the wine while maintaining a touch of sweetness. Yet, it's the vibrant zest that brings bounds of freshness. It finishes with a delightfully nervous tension. Staffelter Hof's remarkable lineage, spanning approximately 1,200 years, is noteworthy, making it one of the oldest companies globally. Steering this historic estate are Jan Matthias Klein, a fifth-generation winemaker, and Yamile Abad, serving as cellar master and assistant winemaker.
90 Miranda Franco Apr 23, 2024
White:
Artemis Karamolegos Winery, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko “Ancestral Vines 34” 2022 ($60, Athenee Importers):  The Santorini Assyrtiko 34 from Artemis Karamolegos Winery provides a delicious introduction to this classic Greek grape. This is a pure and complex white that will age well, but is a delicious treat even on release. Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving a range of recently-formed volcanic rock in its wake. It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and sparse growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth. The 2022 Artemis Karamolegos 34 Assyrtiko offers a bouquet of peach, apple, lemon peel, flowers and spice. The flavors are pure and exciting, with peach, pear, apple and lemon fruit flavors underlain by subtle honey, herb and spice tones. Try it now or over the next five years.
92 Wayne Belding Apr 23, 2024
Friuli:
White:
Massican, Collio DOC (Friuli, Italy) “Mitja Sirk” White Wine 2022 ($35):  With enticing aromas, vibrant flavors, and impeccable balance, this gorgeous 2022 Massican Mitja Sirk Collio White blends Tocai Friulano (50%), Chardonnay (35%), and Sauvignon Blanc. This wine is part of a collaboration series in which famed Massican founder and winemaker Dan Petroski, who makes only white wines in Napa Valley, reaches out to fellow winemakers with similar philosophies and asks them to make a Massican wine from their point of view. This Massican collaboration features Mitja Sirk. The Sirk family is originally from Slovenia but has lived within site of the Italian border for over 50 years. On the palate, the Tocai Friulano contributes a lush, textured mouthfeel with stone fruit flavors. At the same time, the Chardonnay adds a creamy richness, infusing the palate with notes of tropical fruit and subtle honeysuckle. The Sauvignon Blanc brings a zesty vibrancy with bursts of citrus zest, providing a crisp, refreshing finish, resulting in a wine that is both satisfyingly complex and effortlessly drinkable.
95 Miranda Franco Apr 23, 2024
Borgo Conventi, Collio DOC (Friuli, Italy) “Luna di Ponca” 2020 ($75, Demeine Estates):  The Collio DOC is on the eastern edge of Friuli, bordering Slovenia. The hillside vineyards here have long been known as a source for high quality white wine grapes. Borgo Conventi is a top class producer here and their Luna di Ponca white is perennially one of their best wines. It is a blend of Friulano, Chardonnay and Malvasia. The Friulano is aged in stainless steel; the Chardonnay and Malvasia in oak. Each of the grapes offers benefit to the final blend. The 2020 Luna di Ponca is forward and full, with impressive breadth, depth and complexity. It offers a luscious bouquet of ripe apple, peach, rich lemon and tropical fruits backed by herb, floral, bread and spice hints. The pure, layered fruit character is enhanced by its creamy texture with rich fruit flavors, vanilla and spice tones. Thoroughly enjoyable now, it will cellar well for another 3 to 5 years.
93 Wayne Belding Apr 23, 2024
Back to Top
Sicily:
White:
Planeta, Menfi DOC (Sicily, Italy) Fiano “Cometa” 2021 ($45, Taub Family Selections):  Planeta’s 2021 Cometa Fiano is a fantastic example of what this grape is capable of. Rich, refreshing, and complex all at once, this wine, like many Fiano wines, is reminiscent of many varietals yet distinctly its own. Scents of lemon peel, sea breeze, and banana all commingle in an odd but thoroughly complimentary manner. Flavor-wise, the wine starts with a burst of bright lemon that fades to rounder notes of meringue and camomile, brought about by lees aging with daily stirring. It paired wonderfully with the shrimp cocktail I was enjoying while I tasted it.
93 John McDermott Apr 23, 2024
Back to Top
Tuscany:
Red:
Castello di Gabbiano, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2020 ($22, Treasury Wine Estates):  Castello di Gabbiano's 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva is perhaps a bit more enjoyable than the current, pricier Gran Selezione (2018). This is a good food wine which, while retaining the rusty tannins of the Sangiovese in the finish, displays enough fresh blackberry flavors to be almost on the border of exuberant fruitiness, not common in most Chianti Classico, and a plus here.
91 Roger Morris Apr 23, 2024
Dao:
Red:
Quinta da Boavista, Dão (Portugal) “Terras de Tavares” Vinho Tinto 2019 ($50, Field Blend Selections):  Quinta da Boavista belongs to the esteemed Tavares de Pina family located in the Portuguese wine region of Dão. Its rich history traces back to the late 1700s, with a longstanding tradition of vineyard excellence. While traditionally supplying co-ops, the estate shifted gears recently, choosing to bottle their own wines. This move towards independence holds immense significance in a region where cooperatives dominate. On the palate the 2019 Dão Quinta da Voavista Vinho Tinto Terras de Tavares, a blend of 81% Touriga Nacional, 13% Jaen (Mencia), and 6% Rufet, is incredibly structured, with grippy yet smoothed tannins and a beautiful lift of freshness. There is a beautiful integration with the chestnut wood and delicate red and black fruits peeking through the dried spice and leathery components. While approachable now, this should have a long life ahead.
95 Miranda Franco Apr 23, 2024
Back to Top
Douro:
Red:
Sandeman, Porto (Douro Valley, Portugal) 20 Year Tawny Port NV ($63, Evaton):  Tawny Ports mature in wood casks, losing their youthful purple color, and developing the rich, tawny, nut brown hue referred to in the name. The House of Sandeman traces its beginnings to 1790 and they are noted for their large collection of aged wines. Sandeman has succeeded brilliantly with the 20 Year Tawny Port. It has a lovely, tawny amber color and a simply lovely bouquet. Fig, golden raisin, apricot, prune, and citrus peel elements are interwoven with delicate floral scents and hints of ginger, almond toffee, and cinnamon spice. It is suitable as an apéritif – with the tangy caramel livening the palate for the meal to come – or as a traditional after-dinner drink. A glass of this fine Port makes an excellent dessert all by itself, or a perfect companion for shortbread cookies, ginger snaps, nuts, pears, and blue cheeses (Stilton is the classic match). The quality is sensational and, considering the extended cask aging and blending expertise, it is a superb value as well.
95 Wayne Belding Apr 23, 2024
White:
Marjan Simcic, Goriška Brda (Slovenia) Ribolla "Classic" 2022 ($36, Banville Wine Merchants):  Slovenia’s Goriška Brda region sits just across the border from Collio, an exceptional region in Italy. Marjan Simčič’s classical Brda Ribolla captures all the same minerality as its Italian cousin while also producing both ripe fruit and a light floral undertone. Ribolla’s natural acidity makes this wine easy to enjoy with lighter foods, ranging from seafood to a white pasta. Marjan Simčič is the fifth generation to tend to and make wine from his family’s vineyards. I have had the opportunity to try a number of his wines and they have always shown the quality that I seek from this region.
89 Vince Simmon Apr 23, 2024
White:
Ken Forrester Vineyards, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vine Reserve 2022 ($17, USA Wine Imports):  The 2022 Ken Forrester Old-Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is a delicious example of South African Chenin. The roots of the Forrester estate stretch back to 1689, when the first land grant was awarded. Today, the winery offers a wide range of red, white and sparkling wines. Located in southern Stellenbosch, the Forrester vineyards benefit from the cooling breezes off nearby False Bay. The 2022 Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is aged in oak and marries the exotic old-vine fruit with the vanilla and caramel richness provided by the barrel. It has an exotic nose of ripe pear, pineapple, honey, vanilla and citrus. On the palate, the pure pear, apple, citrus and tropical fruit flavors are backed by subtle tones of vanilla, caramel and herbs. It is a vivid and affordable taste treat that is well worth a try.
92 Wayne Belding Apr 23, 2024
California:
Red:
Acumen PEAK, Atlas Peak - Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($135):  I have been waiting with bated breath for the 2021 releases from this producer, and the arrival does not disappoint in any way. This multi clone blend is deep and complex, with layered blackberry, cassis, crushed rock, mild dried herb and a little bright kiss from a dash of Merlot in the mix. This program has seen some top notch winemaking talent over the last dozen years, and I can imagine a stack of resumes waiting their turn for a crack at this sourcing. That said, I picture Phillip Corallo-Titus keeping a good hold on the seat. He’s got the touch.
97 Rich Cook Apr 23, 2024
Acumen PEAK, Atlas Peak - Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Edcora Vineyard 2021 ($175):  After tasting blind and arriving at a big score, I remember that I have given this particular bottling the big score in two previous vintages — 2015 and 2016 — and right out of the gate, this vintage appears to be in the same rarified air as those two wines. There is so much going on here, and it’s all just starting to show itself through the structured backbone. The Cabernet hallmarks are here, with lively blackberry and cassis, rich oak spice, crushed rock and earthy mineral notes that are an Atlas Peak signature, all fine tuned and beautiful. Dare I say this is a bargain when it comes to high end Napa Valley Cabernet? I do so dare — without reservation. Transcendent wine! 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, clones 15 and 169.
100 Rich Cook Apr 23, 2024
Decoy, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($25):  You have got to hand it to the team at Duckhorn — they continue to deliver quality at every price point. This Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon is on the simpler side as an approachable, slightly sweet in a fruit driven way, and very nice for the price you will be able to find it for. And it will be pretty easy to find. Bonus! Contains 10% Merlot.
90 Rich Cook Apr 23, 2024
Turnbull, Calistoga - Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Amoenus Vineyard 2021 ($145):  Turnbull's Amoenus Vineyard Cabernet is another 2021 that I have been waiting patiently for, and one that I would advise buying now and continuing to wait patiently as it comes fully together over time. From the northwest corner of the Napa Valley on the north facing slopes of Mt. St. Helena, it is long on earthy character, acidity and overall structure, so extended cellaring will integrate the oak and release the fruit that’s just starting to show itself. I would let this rest ten years for starters.
95 Rich Cook Apr 23, 2024
Sarah’s Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Charbono “Vignes Sauvage” 2018 ($40):  Though rarely seen these days, Charbono can be an extraordinary wine. Tim Slater who owns Sarah’s was fascinated by it and produced his first in 2007 from a neighbor’s vines. He then planted one acre and since 2018 makes one entirely from that vineyard. This 2018 was aged 18 months in French oak, 10% new. Well, that extended aging apparently tamed the beast because from its inky black color to its long vibrant finish, this is a show stopper. Cranberry and blackberry fruit fragrances with back notes of cola and thyme lead to a generous, rich palate. The tannins remain in the background and there’s plenty of acidity to add length to the finish. Leaving the debate about Charbono’s background to the experts, this rendition from Sarah’s Vineyard leaves you wondering why it remains relatively obscure.
95 Norm Roby Apr 23, 2024
Skylark, Mendocino County (California) “Red Belly” 2019 ($28):  Skylark is a modern-day Rhône Ranger winery. Red Belly is their homage to Southern Rhône, showcasing a blend of Syrah, Carignane, and Grenache. The blend, heavy on both Syrah and Carignane, comes across true-to-style with a lighter body and clear earth notes. Meanwhile, Red Belly’s fruit-driven profile is true to California. Skylark’s oak usage is well integrated and acts in a supporting role to the wine’s red fruit and earthy notes. Made to cellar, this wine will do well in a decanter. Be sure to look out for sediment but also ensure that it receives sufficient air.
89 Vince Simmon Apr 23, 2024
Adaptation, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($78):  A true profile of Napa Valley terroirs, the grapes come from PlumpJack’s other Napa estates – CADE, PlumpJack and Odette. The fruit is very forward on the palate, but pleasantly so, with a complexity of blackberries, blueberries and lots of dry herbal notes, followed by a creamy fruitiness in the finish. This is a wine you don’t want to finish the first night, as saving a half-glass for the next day and even the day after will be well-rewarded.
94 Roger Morris Apr 23, 2024
Ammunition, Sonoma County (California) Pinot Noir 2022 ($25):  Partners Andy Wahl and Bill Kerr left their careers behind to focus on Sonoma wines, and they use Ammunition for this Pinot and, hold on, also for their Rye, Whiskey, and Bourbon. This 2022 Pinot sourced from Carneros and Russian River was aged for 6 months in French oak, 30% new. It showcases bright black cherry fruit along with an earthy, dried herb nose. Capturing youthful flavors that fan out on the palate, it is pleasantly juicy with that earthy component poking through. Good pinot for the price. The partners also make wines from the Russian River Valley AVA under the name, Screen Door Cellars. But back to the whiskey, it is safe to assume their parents never told them never to mix wine and booze. Oh well.
90 Norm Roby Apr 23, 2024
Rosé:
Poe, Mendocino County (California) Rosé of Grenache Split Rock Ranch 2022 ($24):  Samantha Sheehan founded Poe in 2009 with a goal of producing vineyard-specific wines in the U.S. market. Her Rosé of Grenache is sourced from the Split Rock Ranch, a 27-acre vineyard in Mendocino County, CA. The vineyard is certified organic and the entire farm is focused on sustainable farming practices. Samantha’s Rosé of Grenache produces a flash of candied strawberry and red cherry notes in each sip. The creamy mouthfeel supports the candied fruit notes and the entire wine is destined to disappear faster than planned. Doubly so if you share it with friends.
90 Vince Simmon Apr 23, 2024
White:
Haynes Vineyard, Coombsville - Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Vigneron” 2021 ($106):  Decant this Chardonnay well in advance – if you don’t, you may note an odd bubble of fruitiness that floats through the wine and seems out of place. It is. After a long decant, the wine is spectacular and complex, with the key elements being a taut mineral stoniness with a slightly tart finish. The fruit is there – a tight appley eau-de-vie note – but the key is the long, long elegant structure. The wine would go well with food, but I would rather sip it like a fine spirit.
95 Roger Morris Apr 23, 2024
Simon Family Estate, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc “Golden Ore” 2021 ($77):  I love a wine that is well-made and delicious but falls outside the boundaries of expectations, here a Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc that is remindful of a southern Rhone blended blanc or even an opulent white Burgundy. The aroma is a come-hither fresh meatiness, and the flavors are of savory grain, brioche and aged Champagnes. The structure is lean on entry, but finishes with a more-broadened aged fruitiness. Light tannins, with a long finish.
94 Roger Morris Apr 23, 2024
Charles Krug, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($23):  This Sauvignon Blanc is from a venerable producer that is still doing it right. Charles Krug's 2023 Sauvignon is delicious — aromas of lemon, lime, melon and a little fresh cut grass translate nicely on the palate over lively acidity and linger through a crisp finish with bright citrus push. It’s a winner at a proper price point.
92 Rich Cook Apr 23, 2024
Alma de Cattleya, Sonoma County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($26):  Here is a Sauvignon Blanc that sneaks up on you like a surprise kiss. The nose is subtle and nettled, but the palate pops with life. I suspect the neutral oak aging employed here rounds the aromatic edges a bit, which would lead you to think it might do the same to the acidity. If it did take any acidity off, it’s not a detractor at all – there is plenty of acid to give drive to the wine. Another spot on bottling from this label at a price we can all enjoy.
92 Rich Cook Apr 23, 2024
Stony Hill, Spring Mountain District - Napa Valley (California) 2021 ($110):  Stony Hill's Spring Mountain Chardonnay is a wine that straddles the boundaries of having Burgundy-like structure but yet also the elements of the stereotypical California fruitiness – mellow apples – along with a light richness or toastiness. Fairly full-bodied, it also has nice notes of baking spice to go along with the apple flavors.
91 Roger Morris Apr 23, 2024
Back to Top
Michigan:
White:
Brengman Brothers, Leelanau Peninsula (Michigan) Riesling Crain Hill Vineyard Wild Ferment 2022 ($30):  The 2022 Brengman Brothers Wild Ferment Riesling Trocken is a lovely dry Riesling that will impress you with its combination of pure fruit and racy style. The aromas are vivid and bright, with citrus, ripe apple, peach and tropical fruit elements backed by floral and spice tones. The flavors are lively and complex with the peach, citrus and pineapple fruits interwoven with subtle spice nuances. The native yeast fermentation adds a degree of herbal complexity. The finish is lively and lifted, with the racy style of fine Riesling clearly evident. It shows the level of quality one can find in modern Michigan wines.
92 Wayne Belding Apr 23, 2024
Good Harbor Vineyards, Leelanau Peninsula (Michigan) Pinot Grigio 2022 ($17):  The wines of Michigan are getting much-deserved attention in recent vintages for more than just Riesling. This is a finely-balanced Pinot Grigio from the 2022 harvest on the Leelanau Peninsula of northern Michigan. The ripeness of the vintage shows with luscious aromas of juicy pear, peach, and tropical fruits backed by nuances of cream and subtle herbs. The flavors are pure, ripe, smooth and dry with the peach and pear fruits underlain by a subtly creamy texture plus floral and spice tones. Try it with fresh salmon or a dish with fresh basil and savor its rich but still refreshing style.
90 Wayne Belding Apr 23, 2024
White:
Kalin Cellars, Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay “Cuvée W” 1995 ($55):  Kalin Cellars 1995 Cuvée W is admittedly a hard wine to find. Wine-searcher and Google do not currently show any bottles for sale domestically, but you might come across it in restaurants and high-end wine bars, as it does seem to crop up in such locations still. I was lucky enough to find such an establishment serving this wine by the glass, and I am here to tell you that if you see it, you should order it. Verging on 30 years old, the wine is an amber, honey brown color in the bottle — so much so that I was admittedly doubtful that there could be any life left in this wine as I saw it being poured. Oh how wrong I was. On the nose, you are greeted with a succulent medley of fresh baked bread, honeycomb, and dried citrus. In the mouth, the wine comes alive, lemon and orange peel giving way to a truly intoxicating mixture of Graham Cracker and baking spice. Despite its age, the wine is full of verve, with vibrant acidity tying everything together. Do not pair this wine with anything potent — allow it to tell its wonderful tale on its own and enjoy every moment of it.
98 John McDermott Apr 23, 2024
Back to Top
|
 |
|
