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Tightening the Belt for the Holidays
By Robert Whitley
Nov 4, 2008
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It's not unusual for food and wine lovers to think thin around the holidays. After all, the battle of the bulge comes with the season. In these difficult economic times, however, the same strategy might be applied to your budget for entertaining. Tightening the belt may not be easy, but sometimes it must be done.

With that in mind, I have scoured my notes from this year's tastings, searching of course for $10 wines that could pass for $20, and $20 wines that could pass for $40. Why pay more when there are indeed wines that have surpassed all expectations given their modest price points.

My task was easier than I had imagined, for good vintages all over the world have been common in recent years. What I was hoping to find were flavorful wines, modestly priced, that could be served throughout a holiday party or dinner and impress even the discerning wine enthusiast despite their lack of pedigree.

I set $20 as my maximum, but hoped for more wines closer to $10 than $20, a target I hit, I am happy to report. Six of the 10 wines I have chosen to recommend retail locally for $15 or less. Most impressive was the Bellussi Prosecco, which I found at Mona Lisa in San Diego's Little Italy for less than $12. I don't believe you will find a better sparkling wine for the price anywhere.

There are several options for aperitif, first courses and main courses, and all were chosen for their exceptional quality as well as value. You would be proud to serve them even if budget were no consideration. Of course, space is limited so I kept my selection to 10 wines.

Rest assured there are many other worthy additions to the list, and finding the value gems on your own can be great fun, and enlightening, too. Don't be discouraged if you have trouble finding a wine on the list. Simply ask your favorite wine merchant to recommend another wine that's similar.

And remember that it is possible to think thin this holiday season and still drink well!

Holiday Value Wines

Bellussi 2007 Prosecco di Valdobbiadene ($12) - Suggested retail for this fresh and lively bubbly from Italy's Veneto region is $19, but I have found it on online from K & L Wines at less than $11. At that price it is one of the greatest steals in sparkling wine that you are likely to come across. The beauty of Prosecco is its generous fruit and all-around succulence. Other inexpensive bubblies - Cava from Spain, for example - are much lighter and less interesting in general. Serve Prosecco well chilled as an aperitif, or with light appetizers. An added bonus here is the handsome packaging, which creates the impression of a much more expensive wine. That's not always the case with 'value' wines.

Mumm Napa Valley Brut Prestige, Napa Valley ($18) - For consistently high quality at a modest price, Mumm Napa's Brut Prestige is unparalleled. This bubbly, unlike the Prosecco, is made in the Champagne method and aged on the yeast for about two years before disgorgement (that is having the crown cap and dead yeast cells removed, with the cap replaced by a cork). Brut Prestige always delivers a fine, frothy mousse and fresh stone fruit aromas. It is well balanced and complex enough to serve with first courses, yet soft and appealing as an aperitif as well.

Simi 2007 "Roseto" ($15) - One of the most positive developments in California wine in recent years has been the improvement in California rose. I take that to be a result of increased consumer interest in dry rose, and California certainly doesn't want to be left out as wine enthusiasts embrace the very good roses now being imported from France, Spain and Italy. Rose is more versatile than you might imagine. It's not only a superb aperitif, but pairs well with soups (especially fish soups) and even savory main course holiday dishes such as roast turkey. Even roast duck is a nice fit. Simi's Roseto offers delicate strawberry and raspberry aromas and fine balance.

Loredona 2006 Pinot Grigio, Monterey ($12) - I commend the Loredona Pinot Grigio over this winery's sister aromatic white, the Riesling that captured Best of Show honors at the California State Fair last summer. Both are beautiful wines, but I prefer the lighter, friendlier Pinot Grigio to the more serious and complex Riesling as an aperitif, which in my house is an essential component of holiday entertaining. For welcoming guests, this is an unpretentious yet delicious 'happy hour' wine that over-delivers for the price. The Riesling, at about the same price, will serve you well with first courses or fish.

Kenwood 2007 Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($15) - The previous vintage racked up a prestigious Platinum Award at the 2008 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition, and I don't see much difference between the '06 and '07. Considering that this wine is made in fairly large volume (about 80,000 cases) it's a remarkable achievement. In this price range you will be hard pressed to find a more well balanced, complex and flavorful Chardonnay. It certainly has the richness and body to stand up to savory roast turkey with all the trimmings, or just about anything else you might throw its way save wild boar.

Michel Picard Macon-Villages, France ($12) - Chardonnay from Burgundy's Macon region continues to offer tremendous value in white Burgundy despite the fact that quality has been on the rise. Picard has done an excellent job of sourcing grapes for the Macon-Villages, which is typically French in style, meaning it offers a flinty minerality with a fair amount of woodsmoke for added complexity. Don't be put off by the smart looking screwcap closure. What's inside the bottle more than measures up at this price point.

Famiglia Bianchi 2006 Malbec, Argentina ($17) - Easily one of the finest reds under $20 that I've tasted this year, this is a classic Malbec from the high altitude vineyards of Argentina. It reveals itself in layers of sexy red-fruited aroma, with hints of spice and wood notes for added nuance. I found that decanting an hour before serving brought out additional complexity and demonstrated the depth and richness that can be found with a bit of patience. Perfect for that prime rib you might serve, but certainly not too powerful or over the top for roast turkey. Despite its youth, the tannins are round and smooth and the palate supple and inviting.

Five Rivers 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($10) - I've talked about this wine before, but it bears repeating for those who are looking for a big bang for the buck around the holidays. You won't find another California Cabernet this good for this price, guaranteed. Many times I've poured this wine for friends without telling them what it is. To a person, everyone is astonished at the price. Generous and fleshy, with layers of red-fruited aroma and remarkable length, this is truly one of the steals of the year in red wine, particularly Cabernet. Perfect for roast beef or duck breast!

Eberle 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon 'Vineyard Selection', Paso Robles ($18) - Gary Eberle is best known as the vintner who pioneered Syrah in the Paso Robles district along California's Central Coast. But he's no slouch with Cabernet, either, and his best vintages have a remarkable record for longevity. The 'Vineyard Selection' is more your everyday Eberle Cab and provides for immediate enjoyment. It's full flavored, showing nuances of red currant and blueberry, with hints of spice. The tannins are supple and the palate smooth and fleshy, making for a wonderful easy drinking holiday Cabernet.

Veramonte 2005 Primus, Chile ($20) - This vintage of Primus is easily the best value I've found this year in a red Bordeaux-style blend. Soft, supple, succulent Merlot is the base of the blend, and the result is a fresh, firm, complex style of Chilean red that while distinctly South American, can easily be traced back to its roots in France. This is a complex wine of exceptional finesse and elegance that is seldom found at this price point.