REVIEW ARCHIVES

Prior to the April 23, 2024 Issue

SOUTH AFRICA

Red:

Beaumont, Bot River (Walker Bay, South Africa) Pinotage 2015 ($30, Broadbent): This stylish Pinotage (not an oxymoron, as many believe) isn’t yet in the USA, but I found it marginally superior to the 2014, and am willing to wait…though I’ll probably buy a few bottles of older vintages that are currently on offer from American retailers to learn more about this wine from the highly talented by ultra unpretentious Sebastian Beaumont.  Medium-plus in body, with very expressive and complex aromas and very satisfying fruit that easily counterbalances the (very well managed) tannins, this is delicious and destined for years of positive development.
92 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Cederberg, Cederberg (South Africa) Shiraz 2006 ($28, Vinovative Imports): I'm always wary of tasting notes that make reference to a wine as being 'explosively' anything, but my note on this wine shows exactly that term in relation to its very expressive aromas.  The flavors are deep and very pleasant, but the real thrills here are derived from scents of dark berries, espresso beans, dark chocolate, spices and fresh flowers.  The fruit has already soaked up the wood, 70% of which was new, and it now just provides subtle support and complexity rather than any overtly woody notes.  Delicious--if you can tear yourself away from just smelling the stuff. 91 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Cederberg, Cederberg (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($28, Vinovative Imports): Dark and dense, this wine shows very impressive balance and integration to go along with its depth and power.  Classic notes of blackberry and black current are nicely interwoven with toasty oak notes, and the tannins provide just the right grip in the finish to lend backbone without astringency.  Clearly this was crafted from very fine fruit, but the craftsmanship is impressive in its own right. 90 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Bellingham Wines, Central Coast (South Africa) Shiraz Blend "Small Barrel S.M.V." 2011 ($30, Cape Wine Ventures): A blend of 75% Shiraz, 22% Mourvedre and 3% Viognier and aged for eighteen months in small barriques that delivers big wild berry fruit and spice character complimented by floral and citrus notes.  It has wonderful food friendly acidity and structured tannins that should allow aging for 5 to 10 years, and it’s delicious now with some air time.  Lots of pairing possibilities here -- try gourmet burgers, or “go local” and have some grilled springbok.  Made by Niel Groenewald.
91 Rich Cook Mar 18, 2014

Lievland Vineyards, Coastal Region (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($20, Vineyard Brands):  This Cabernet over-delivers for the price.  Perhaps it’s the inclusion of a little Cinsault (8%) and Shiraz (6%), but whatever it is, there is a fabulous combination of savory -- black and green olive notes -- intertwined with black fruit flavors.  Not jammy or sweet, they hit the balance of fruit/savory notes perfectly.  Polished tannins add a suppleness while still providing support and a whiff of bitterness in the finish reminds you it’s serious wine.  And a bargain to boot!  
92 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2019

Lievland Vineyards, Coastal Region (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($19, Vineyard Brands):  I have been majorly impressed by every Cabernet and Chenin I’ve tasted under this brand, as each one of them easily outperforms almost all of their comparably priced competitors — from anywhere — on quality and versatility.  They are also very smartly styled, by which I mean that they could be poured with pride by dinner hosts or ordered off a restaurant menu for a group including novices as well as serious wine lovers, with the former not being put off by anything too challenging, and the latter not disappointed by wines that seem even a little dumbed-down.  This Cabernet weighs in at medium-plus in body, with lovely aromatics including what the French would call “garrigue” accents, though these would be more appropriately and precisely termed “fynbos" in the context and terroir of South Africa.  These scents are complex and very appealing, and though they may be difficult to translate into descriptors that align with wines from outside of South Africa (which has a spectacularly diverse and unique plant kingdom, especially in the Cape region), there’s no question that they are wonderfully appealing.  A wine of place, in addition to a wine of very high quality, for $19?  But there’s more (I write, knowingly poking fun at my own seeming huckster-ism): On the palate, this shows a high ratio of flavor to weight, and also a high ratio of fruit to tannin, but with enough weight and tannin that the aforementioned “serious wine lovers” will get everything they want out of a glass of this.  Tasted twice, two weeks apart; loved both times.  Caterers and restaurateurs, take note.       
92 Michael Franz Aug 17, 2021

Lindhorst, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2003 ($45, Abacchus Wine Enterprises): South African wine has a variety of strengths, but one of the clearest and most convincing is Syrah/Shiraz.  The best examples show more of the complexity that we'd associate with the Old World than most renditions from California or Australia, yet they also show more immediate fruit than one finds in most Syrahs from the Rhône.  This exemplary bottling is a great case in point.  The dark berry fruit is pure and vivid but neither obvious nor the sole significant note, as there are lots of nice little nuances of smoke, tobacco leaves, fresh mushrooms and roasted meat that lend additional complexity.  As interesting as it is delicious, this is a terrific bottle. 92 Michael Franz Jan 23, 2007

Fairview, Coastal Region (South Africa) Pinotage “Primo” 2007 ($29, Vineyard Brands):  Charles Back’s Primo Pinotage is a step up in style, depth and complexity from his regular Pinotage--but at twice the price.  Made from grapes grown on a single “farm” (estate) in Agter-Paarl, Primo Pinotage was fermented in open-top oak vats then aged for 12 months in American oak barrels.  The color is a deep ruby with purple rim, the aromatics show traces of smoked bacon, chocolate and dark fruits.  It has good texture, plenty of fruit, nicely integrated fine tannins and finishes with a little heat at 15% alcohol.  Primo is a muscular Pinotage that was bottled unfined and unfiltered. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 10, 2010

Bellingham, Coastal Region (South Africa) “Pinopasso” 2014 ($19, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): This wine’s proprietary name is a blending of the name of the grape Pinotage and the name of the winemaking technique Ripasso, the practice of fermenting wine on the skins and lees left from another fermentation to add weight and complexity to an otherwise bright, light styled red wine.  The result here is convincing, and the process adds depth to the wine and eliminates the ironite character that is common to Pinotage from South Africa.  It's a pleasant mix of blackberry, fennel, cocoa and a touch of fresh mint, delivered over firm tannic structure and finishing long and well integrated.  Top it off with a value price and you've got another winner from Bellingham.
90 Rich Cook Mar 15, 2016

Fairview, Coastal Region (South Africa) Pinotage 2008 ($15, Vineyard Brands):  Charles Back, a noted South African winemaker who specializes in Pinotage, is behind the Fairview wines.  For this 2008, Back chose bush vines from two coastal areas: Malmesbury and Agter-Paarl.  Fermented in stainless steel tanks, the wine was aged for 10 months in French and American oak.  The color is a very deep purple-ruby and the aromas show ripe berry and spice with a trace of smoke.  The richly textured flavors are packed with fresh fruit, length and structure.  Finished at 14.65% alcohol, this is a value Pinotage with big juicy flavors.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 10, 2010

Fairview, Coastal Region (South Africa) "Caldera" 2010 ($22, Vineyard Brands): As rambunctious and endearing as a puppy, this Rhône-style red blend (comprised of Grenache 43%, Shiraz 43% and Mourvèdre 14%), seems eager to please with its high notes of red fruits, bouncy vitality, and zippy tannins.  It will undoubtedly settle down in a year or two, but if you’re impatient to wait for it to mellow (or are one of those people who likes to say: “At my age I don’t even buy green bananas,”) you won’t be disappointed if you drink it now.
90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 26, 2013

The Winery of Good Hope, Coastal Region (South Africa) Pinotage Full Berry Fermentation 2021 ($14, Pascal Schildt Selections):  Featuring notes recalling Bazooka bubblegum, strawberry, red cherry, roasted red bell peppers, and potting soil, this wine is both fun and an oddball.  The Winery of Good Hope de-stems their Pinotage and puts the whole berries in stainless steel tanks where they undergo intracellular fermentation.  It is carbonic maceration without the stems.  The resulting wine is quite nice.  A lighter body and all of the flavors you read above.  Add a little chill, and this is a great wine on a warmer day.      
90 Vince Simmon Oct 4, 2022

Fairview, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz 2006 ($15, Vineyard Brands): Shiraz is shaping up as one of the most promising grapes for the greater Cape region in South Africa, and this relatively affordable bottling shows how successful the cultivar can be in the area.  The fruit is expressive but not grapey, with aromas and flavors that show both red and black fruit characters and just a faint whiff of earthiness.  Oak is noticeable but very subtle, lending just a hint of woodsmoke aroma and a bit of spiciness in the finish.  The texture is soft but not formless, and overall the wine is very well made and a very good value. 89 Michael Franz Jan 1, 2008

Fairview, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz "La Capra" 2009 ($11):  I am consistently impressed by the array of fairly priced and eminently drinkable wines being turned out by South Africa’s Fairview Estate.  This Shiraz, as lighthearted as its label, is a prime example of the genre.  I can’t even begin to describe the assortment of incongruous articles depicted on the label, all of them balancing on the back of a goat. I’m not sure what any of it means--perhaps that the wine is nicely balanced (it is).  Or maybe that it is ever so slightly goat-like funky, or that it would be an excellent wine to accompany the round of cheese pictured atop the balancing act (yes, and yes).  In any event, by the time you’ve finished deciphering the image you may find that this Shiraz slips down the gullet so smoothly that there isn’t a drop of it left in the bottle. 89 Marguerite Thomas Feb 28, 2012

Fairview, Coastal Region (South Africa) Merlot “La Capra” 2008 ($11, Vineyard Brands):  This wine’s sweet, juicy Merlot fruit in no way steals the whole show.  There is also enough acidity and subtle tannic structure to make it a congenial partner for a variety of different foods (chicken, pork, pasta and whole grain dishes).  It is relatively light in body, and certainly light in price given its overall quality. 89 Marguerite Thomas Feb 28, 2012

La Capra, Coastal Region (South Africa) Pinotage 2008 ($10, Vineyard Brands):  La Capra is a tasty value Pinotage loaded with fruit and nicely structured.  It has a deep mulberry-red color, hints of cedar and blueberry and ripe berry flavors.  The oak tannins are nicely integrated and the finish is textured and fruity with 14% alcohol.  La Capra is a good example of a fruity Pinotage that benefits nicely from aging in American oak. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 10, 2010

Man Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Pinotage “Bosstok” 2011 ($11, Vineyard Brands): For American wine drinkers Pinotage can be a bit of an acquired taste.  Some call Pinotage’s slightly foreign flavor “funky,” others describe it as “earthy,” and a few tasters go so far as to say they detect a faint rubbery quality.  Ideally, as in this example from Man Vintners, Pinotage exhibits unique and savory flavors and aromas with suggestions of earth and spice balanced by red fruits.  This is a nicely structured and all things considered a friendly wine to drink with pizza, spaghetti Bolognese or other simple tomato-influenced dishes.  (“Bosstok”, according to the information on the back label, refers to the Pinotage vineyards that grow close to the ground and produce lower grape yields).
89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 29, 2013

Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2005 ($12, Vineyard Brands): Those consumers tired of overly alcoholic, flamboyant Californian or Australian Syrah should look to South Africa. Porcupine Ridge, produced by Boekenhoutskloof Winery, is a lovely mid-weight Syrah filled with beefy, spicy notes harmonizing with plenty of black fruit flavors. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Bellingham, Coastal Region (South Africa) 'Dragon's Lair' 2005 ($26, Cape Wine Ventures): A typical Mediterranean blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Viognier crushed together and co-fermented, this wine has impressive power without going over the top.  The decision to age half the wine in one-year-old oak barrels (and the rest in new oak) helps keep the wine in balance.  The oak flavors and tannins are nicely integrated and do not overwhelm the spicy ripe fruit elements.  The lovely mixture of berries and spice lingers in the finish. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009

Bored Doe, Coastal Region (South Africa) 2004 ($12, Vineyard Brands): This Boredeau-style blend (just in case you didn't catch the pun in the wine's name) is made by the Goats Do Roam offshoot of vintner Charles Back. You could get the idea that this is a wine intended to sell on its amusing name and label, but tasting it will indicate very clearly that the wine can stand on its merits as well. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Marlot, Malbec and Petite Verdot, it is beautifully balanced and very flavorful, with fruit that shows New World vivacity but also some Old World complexity. A remarkable value. 88 Michael Franz Oct 24, 2006

Goat Roti, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz – Viognier 2007 ($20, Vineyard Brands): At $20, your willingness to buy a wine based on the amusement value of the name might well wear thin, but there's little doubt in my mind that any buyer of this wine will be pleased with it.  With softly textured, ripe fruit recalling dark berries and black cherries, this is seductively broad and smooth in feel, yet a little bit of spice and smoke lends complexity.  There's 4% Viognier involved, and though I couldn't really discern it in the aromas or flavors of the wine, it may lend something to the wine's pleasantly soft texture. 88 Michael Franz Oct 7, 2008

Man Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($11, Vineyard Brands):

All of the current releases from Man Vintners are quite solid, but the Cabernet is the class of the lineup, with medium-bodied fruit recalling blackberries and black cherries and a few nice nuances around the edges.  Soft enough to sip on its own but sufficiently substantial for pairing with moderately robust meat dishes, this is a very strong value for the money.

Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2008 ($13, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof invariably offers great value.  This 2008 Syrah is no exception.  Expressing the meaty, beefy side of Syrah rather than the peppery aspect, it is an engaging wine with supple texture that makes it perfect for current drinking with hearty fare. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 22, 2009

Fairview, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz 2005 ($15, Vineyard Brands): Observers of the worldwide wine scene are aware that Syrah/Shiraz is being planted left and right in every quarter, and critical tasters are aware that a lot of it is producing rather boring, one-dimensional wine.  However, South Africa's Cape region is looking like one of the most promising locales for this cultivar, and this moderately-priced bottling reinforces that impression.  Substantial fruit recalls blackberries and bing cherries, with subtle scents of leather and wild mushrooms lending additional interest. 87 Michael Franz May 22, 2007

Goats in Villages, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz - Pinotage 2007 ($13, Vineyard Brands): A blend of 78% Shiraz and 22% Pinotage, this is a serious wine despite the unserious name.  It shows a lot more guts and structure than the straight Goats do Roam red (for better or worse, depending on your purposes), with a winning combination of dark berry fruit and a notably meaty, mushroomy edge.  There's a bit of oak showing along with the tannins, which are notable but certainly not too much for the lightly sweet fruit to counterbalance. 87 Michael Franz Oct 7, 2008

Goats in Villages, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz/ Pinotage 2007 ($14, Vineyard Brands):  A blend hat successfully avoids the off-putting rubbery note that sometimes mars South African reds, particularly those made with the Pinotage grape, this medium-weight wine offers frank plum and red berry fruit flavor, with just a hint of peppery spice in the finish.  Though more of the latter would enable it more closely to resemble the southern Rhône wines that serve as its announced stylistic model, it nonetheless is quite tasty and will serve well as a barbecue partner. 87 Paul Lukacs Jul 27, 2010

Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2007 ($13, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa's leading producers, is a consistent source of good wine at an excellent price.  This Syrah has a dollop of gamey flavors and a touch of bacon fat as counterweight to its overall ripeness.  It carries the 14.5% alcohol well, so it doesn't seem hot or heavy.  With more complexity than I would expect at this price, it is easy to recommend. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 16, 2008

The Goats do Roam Wine Company, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz - Pinotage “Goats in Villages” 2006 ($14, Vineyard Brands): Charles Back's whimsical labeling should not hide the fact that he puts serious wine in his bottles.  This blend of roughly three-quarters Shiraz and one-quarter Pinotage, a grape virtually exclusive to South Africa, works very nicely.  Bright spiciness offsets succulent black fruit in his supple wine.  It's another good choice for bold wintertime fare. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2008

Goats do Roam In Villages, Coastal Region (South Africa) 2005 ($15, Vineyard Brands): Wines in this line from South African vintner Charles Back, which are humorously named in relation to famed French appellations, would be worth our attention if only for their capability to make EU bureaucrats gnash their protective teeth.  Yet, this bottling also shows real merits in qualitative terms, with medium-bodied fruit recalling dark cherries and berries as well as a softly spicy, smoky background. 86 Michael Franz May 22, 2007

Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($10, Vineyard Brands): Boekenhoutskloof opts--for obvious reasons--for easier to pronounce names, such as Porcupine Ridge, for its more popularly-priced wines.  This Cabernet has ripeness and weight that borders on over-ripeness, but freshness imparted by lively acid in the finish holds the wine together.  Mild, supple tannins make this broad, slightly simple Cabernet, lovely to consume now and a fine buy. 86 Michael Apstein Aug 5, 2008

Amira, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2004 ($11, The Wild Grape): This pretty little wine is full of pure, fresh, dark berry fruit, and yet isn't chunky or obvious. Although it is simple, the purity and immediacy of the fruit provides more than enough charm to justify its price, and the decision not to juke it up with cheap oak chips or other mumbo-jumbo was very wise indeed. 85 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2006

Goats do Roam, Coastal Region (South Africa) Red Wine 2006 ($12, Vineyard Brands): This tasty little wine is no longer just about the cute name.  It has become quite popular, and as each new vintage appears, I wonder if quality can be maintained at a higher production level.  The vintners at Charles Back are doing a very good job in doing exactly that, and once again in 2006 this shows expressive aromatics and medium body, with a combination of red cherry and dark berry fruit notes and just the right dose of tannin to provide some grip in the finish. 85 Michael Franz Jan 1, 2008

Goats do Roam Company, Coastal Region (South Africa) Red 2007 ($10, Vineyard Brands): This is the core wine for Goats do Roam, made from Shiraz, Grenache, Cinsault, Carignane and Pinotage.  It is as good or better than ever in the 2007 vintage, with expressively fruity aromas but no notes that are obvious or grapey.  Although the French would likely get angry all over again at this comment (they got plenty mad over the name of the wine), this really does have a plausibly Rhône-style character to it, with a slightly meaty, earthy edge to the fruit.  There's just enough tannin in the finish to give this a little grip that will help it stand up to moderately robust foods. 85 Michael Franz Oct 7, 2008

Constantia Glen, Constantia (South Africa) “Five” Red Estate Wine 2017 ($50, Vineyard Brands):  This outstanding producer turns out three wines sold in the USA, all Bordeaux-styled.  This one is a “Left Bank” blend of 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 17% Petit Verdot and 10% Malbec.  The wine geeks and statisticians who read those numbers will notice immediately that these are truly meaningful components of all five varieties, whereas most Bordeaux blends lean heavily on one or two varieties and then add token amounts of the remaining candidates.  So, this wine delivers on its proprietary name of “Five,” and then it delivers also in the glass.  2017 was a serious drought year in South Africa but not seriously hot, so concentration was superb in the reds from very small berries, but without the frequent down-side of raisined or over-ripe fruit.  This displays all the year’s virtues but none of its challenges, showing very deep pigmentation, expressive aromatics of ripe but pure fruit and plenty of spicy, high-class oak, and lots of rich, satisfying flavors.  I hasten to add, however, that there’s nothing soupy or sticky about this wine on the palate; we’re still in South Africa here, so this sits in a lovely spot between the New and Old-World profile, with no in-your-face “fruit bomb” character at all, but rather a truly Bordeaux-like reserved, savory quality that makes this enduringly interesting sip after sip.  There’s fresh acidity in the finish to balance out the fruit concentration and the wood, and though this is terrific now, there’s every reason to believe it will be better –  and perhaps much better — in a decade.  At 95, this is a high score for a wine with suggested retail pricing of $50, but if my score is off, I’m sure it is off on the low side.         
95 Michael Franz Aug 17, 2021

Groot Constantia, Constantia (South Africa) "Constantia Rood" 2004 ($12, 57 Main St.): Distressingly light at first blush in both color and weight, this wine won me over when given a second sip and sniff. It is quite complex, with faintly earthy, mineral notes adding complexity to a range of varietal notes drawn from the blend of Shiraz (32%), Merlot (24%), Pinotage (16%), Cabernet Sauvignon (12%), Malbec (8%) and Cabernet Franc (8%). The basic fruit profile shows moderately ripe red berries, but there are a lot of little accents that make this very interesting to return to again and again. Tried first on its own, it showed nice subtle qualities, but then, when tried with a grilled loin of wild venison, it totally outclassed six noteworthy reds from Argentina and California. 89 Michael Franz Jan 24, 2006

Porcupine Ridge, Costal Region (South Africa) Shiraz 2006 ($13, Vineyard Brands): Earthy flavors mix with notes of spice in this boisterous wine.  The tannins--ripe and unobtrusive--help balance the intensity.  This is strong Shiraz, best enjoyed in cold weather or with hearty meals. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007

Onyx, Darling (South Africa) "Kroon" 2004 ($23, Boutique Wine Collection): One of the strongest values that I’ve tasted all year, this wine is amazingly complex and compelling for the money.  Notes of dark fruits (blackberries and black currents) are interwoven with wonderful accent notes of cocoa powder, woodsmoke, dried herbs and wild mushrooms.  The fruit is quite ripe and soft, yet there’s enough tannic structure to permit this to pair up nicely with robust foods.  Now old enough to be showing some secondary notes from bottle age, this is nevertheless capable of ageing for another couple of years. 92 Michael Franz Sep 22, 2009

Onyx, Darling (South Africa) Shiraz 2003 ($18, Boutique Wine Collection): Syrah/Shiraz is looking very promising in South Africa, as this rendition will attest.  Dark fruit notes recalling blackberries and black raspberries are vivid but not obvious, as there's also an interesting earthy undertone of wild mushrooms and roasted meat that lends real complexity and interest.  Rich but not heavy, this packs a lot of flavor on a moderate platform that isn't overburdened with a lot of overt ripeness. 90 Michael Franz May 15, 2007

Meinert, Devon Valley (Stellenbosch, South Africa) “Synchronicity” 2004 ($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Meinert puts Pinotage, the unique South African cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, to good use by adding a small--10%--of it in the this blend of equal parts Cabernet and Merlot.  Pinotage by itself can be off-putting with its aroma that can sometimes smell like adhesive tape, but in this wine it adds a wonderfully exotic spice-like and component that supplements earthy notes and balances the lush fruitiness of the other varietals.  Quite polished and supple, it’s a good choice for uncorking for the summer grill season. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2009

Meerendal, Durbanville (Western Cape, South Africa) Pinotage “The Heritage Block” 2015 ($45):  This bottle is an entirely convincing corrective for anyone who doesn’t believe that Pinotage can make great wine.  Sourced from a 1955 planting that produces conspicuously small bunches and berries, it shows very concentrated pigmentation and admirably dark color.  The concentration and weight on the palate are likewise exemplary, especially because there’s no hint of over-ripeness or overt jamminess, and indeed there’s a streak of fresh acidity that very nicely complements the wine’s richness.  The core flavor is brambly blackberry, and by “brambly” my intention is to convey that there’s just a little wildness to the flavors (which is a good thing…who wants an overly domesticated Pinotage?).  Savory undertones lend a layered, complex character, and though some of these notes are undoubtedly derived from oak, there’s nothing manifestly woody about the wine.  That’s very impressive in light of the fact that it spent 22 months in new French oak.  I suspect this has a long and distinguished life ahead of it, but it is already so delicious that most bottles are unlikely to have a chance to prove their longevity.  By the way, I was also able to taste the as-yet-unreleased 2016 rendition of this wine in Cape Town in September of 2018, and it too was very impressive, though it a leaner, tighter, more linear style.  Meerendal’s Heritage Block Pinotage won’t be easy to find at retail, but it is emphatically worth a search, or better still… a visit to the estate to purchase it on the premises. 
95 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2019

Durbanville Hills, Durbanville (South Africa) Shiraz 2005 ($12, Brown Forman):  A recent release, at least here in the United States, this now four-and-a-half year old Shiraz shows the softness and suppleness on the palate that comes with age, while maintaining fresh, ripe cherry and red berry fruit flavor.  The echoes of leather and spice in the finish add complexity, but it’s the wine’s lush texture that makes it so appealing.  It’s hard to imagine it getting any better from this point, though, so do drink it in the near term. 88 Paul Lukacs Oct 13, 2009

Crystallum, Elandskloof (South Africa) Pinot Noir “Mabalel” 2016 ($45, Pascal Schildt): I encountered this during the vinous equivalent of a speed dating session with four very nice people, some of whom were showing wines they had made, some showing wines as producer representative, and all of them trying to explain a few wines from other producers in the broader region around Bot River, a sub-appellation of Walker Bay.  This wine falls into the latter category, and I don’t believe any of my companions in this endeavor actually have a commercial relationship with Crystallum.  Consequently, this is a bit of an orphan, and I don’t know much about it.  I do know that Crystallum is a project of Peter-Allan Finlayson along with his brother Andrew, sons of Peter Finlayson, who is widely regarded as South Africa’s premier pioneer with fine Pinot Noir.  The fruit is all purchased (rather than sourced from vineyards owned by Crystallum), and I was told that 30% of this was aged in new oak.  I can’t even find mention of this wine on the Crystallum website, but I can find evidence of its existence on the importer’s site, so this is not a mere unicorn.  Why the long preamble for this review?  Because the wine is wonderfully delicate, almost ethereal and weightless, though it shows lovely red cherry and cranberry aromas and flavors, along with stylish scents of spices and tomato leaf.  The tannins are ultra fine-grained and perfectly tuned to the wine’s lean frame.  This was shown alongside Crystallum’s Hemel en Aarde Ridge 2016 Pinot, which was significantly meatier, and preferred by most of my fellow tasters.  Fine people though they were, I sharply disagreed, as it is easy to find relatively meaty Pinots around the world, whereas finding gorgeous, gossamer wines like this outside of Burgundy is damned near impossible.
93 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Downes Family Vineyards, Elgin (South Africa) Merlot “Mount Bullet” 2014 ($65, Southern Starz):  This producer also makes a quite good “regular” Merlot, but this flagship bottling is certainly the one to seek out.  It is sold in a very big bottle and smells very much of new oak.  Both of those are marks of a “statement wine” that are likely to turn me off, but this won me back with very good complexity based on a mix of red and black fruit tones, a good combination of freshness and ripeness, and powerful fruit that manages to counterbalance the oak very effectively.  I was quoted at price of $65, but have seen this offered for quite a bit less, so shop around. 93 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Iona, Elgin (South Africa) Red Blend “One Man Band” 2011 ($30, Martin Scott):  Elgin is an appellation in South Africa’s Cape region that gained its early reputation for cool climate renditions of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  However, a wine like this one proves that Elgin can provide a happy home for virtually any variety, including very late ripening ones such as Mourvedre and Petit Verdot.  The blend here includes both of those as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot.  Everything goes into 500 liter casks, 20% of them new, for 16 months.  Four years of additional bottle age help to make this strikingly complex, with earthy scents in the bouquet that really make this seem European in style.  This pleasant earthiness shows up in the wine’s flavors as well, but there’s plenty of fruit too, and in texture, there’s softness but also nice tannic grip.  A complete wine -- which is very high praise in my lexicon. 93 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Pinot Noir 2016 ($24, Verity and Winebow):  I’ve tasted multiple vintages of this wine that were obviously much better than most Pinot Noirs costing twice as much from anywhere in the world, and the 2016 rendition joins that illustrious group.  Compellingly complex, with spice notes intermingled with fruit (that is juicy but not sweet) and savory accents, this expressive wine punches far above its weight in terms of aroma and flavor, which is precisely what defines excellent Pinot Noir.  This should scare the hell out of Pinot producers all over the world asking more than $50 for their wines. 93 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2017

Oak Valley, Elgin (South Africa) “The Blend” 2004 ($30): Very complex and very impressive for the money, this blend of 88% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon seems more nuanced and intricate than one might expect with Merlot comprising such a large percentage of the overall blend.  Perhaps the wine is now mature enough to be showing a bit of bottle bouquet.  Dark berry and black plum fruit notes are expressive but not overwhelming, allowing a number of other accents to show themselves.  These include cocoa, tobacco leaf, fresh meat, and minerals, along with an undertone of smoky oak.  Very impressive! 91 Michael Franz Sep 16, 2008

Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Shiraz 2007 ($20, Vineyard Brands):  Neil Ellis produces consistently high quality wines at all price levels.  This, an upper tier Shiraz, is well worth it not because it is more powerful, but because it’s more complex.  Not over-the-top, it’s a lovely balance of layers of spice and black fruit.  Supple tannins allow for current enjoyment. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 16, 2010

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Pinot Noir 2007 ($22, Vinovative Imports): I have a tough time finding Pinot in this price range that I can recommend with any enthusiasm.  Cheaper ones that taste plausibly like the grape aren't hard to recommend because my expectations are low, and pricey ones that are tasty are pretty easy to find, but mid-priced Pinot that is stylistically convincing in terms of varietal character and flawless in aroma and character are quite rare.  However, this wine hits that mark, with vivid fruit recalling black cherries that is nicely accented with backnotes of spices, including clove.  The tannins are quite fine in grain, and the wood remains tastefully subtle. 89 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Chamonix, Franschhoek (South Africa) Pinot Noir "Feldspar" 2014 ($34, Vineyard Brands): If you aren’t yet familiar with the wines of Chamonix my recommendation is to sample some of this South African’s offerings.  I think you’ll be in for a pleasant surprise.  I haven’t absolutely loved everything thing I’ve tasted from Chamonix, but my favorites loom high in my estimation, with this Pinot Noir being one of those favorites.  Don’t look here for the over-extracted juicy, fruity style that some Pinot producers continue to inflict on us.  Chamonix, by contrast, is in every way subtle, yet profound, and that is not a contradiction in terms.  Take the wine’s color:  Without being densely dark it shimmers with a luminous amethyst hue that invites immediate tasting.  The aroma offers up appropriate Pinot hints of earth and floral fragrance.  In the mouth the wine is both silky and sinewy, with fresh fruity flavors nicely balanced by soft tannins.  While it was matured in French oak barrels the influence of that oak is unobtrusive, adding perhaps a little muscle and texture to the wine but never stealing the show.
93 Marguerite Thomas Aug 16, 2016

Chamonix, Franschhoek (South Africa) Pinotage “Greywacke” 2013 ($34, Vineyard Brands): Pinotage, South Africa’s signature red grape, is not always as successful as Greywacke from Chamonix.  This wine is deeply colored, and it has complex aromas and flavors dominated by tangy red fruits plus a tug of spice and hint of dark chocolate.  With its medium body and silky texture, Greywacke is a thoroughly enjoyable wine.
91 Marguerite Thomas Nov 29, 2016

Boekenhoutskloof, Franschhoek (South Africa) “The Chocolate Block” 2007 ($39, Vineyard Brands): Rich and full of flavor, this is a blend of 55% Syrah, 20% Grenache Noir, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cinsault and 4% Viognier.  Black fruit notes are predominant in the wine, but there's a touch of red cherry also, and soft aromas meld very nicely with a rounded texture and ripe tannins in the finish to provide a coherent whole of complex parts. 90 Michael Franz Dec 23, 2008

Neil Ellis, Groenekloof (South Africa) Shiraz 2004 ($23, Vineyard Brands): A weighty, almost meaty Shiraz from a quite reliable winery, this wine is full of bright but also deeply-flavored fruit, with a spicy, pepper-tinged finish.  Ideal for enjoying with barbecue, it nods much more towards its Australian rather than French counterparts--as its name (Shiraz, rather than Syrah) suggests. 88 Paul Lukacs Oct 9, 2007

Ashbourne, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (South Africa) Pinotage 2018 ($58, Vineyard Brands):  Historically, Pinotage has been a grape pushed into big, brawny wine styles that never really revealed its true potential.  And as a result, it has been unfairly maligned.  But in recent years, more and more producers have moved to let this grape express its true self in the glass.  Tasting from a range of selections, Pinotage can show a great deal of versatility, depending on whether it's grown in warmer or cooler environments.  This Ashbourne Pinotage is a lighter Pinot Noir-like offering from the cooler climate of Swartland.  This delightful wine offers aromas of ripe strawberry, red florals, and ash and boasts complexity and elegant structure.      
94 Jessica Dupuy Nov 10, 2020

Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Hemel-En-Aarde Valley (South Africa) Pinot Noir Estate 2008 ($44, Vineyard Brands):  Very Burgundian, meaning light-bodied but flavorful, with a supple, silky texture on the palate, this wine offers a great deal of character and personality.  It’s not as rich or lush as some contemporary Pinots, and has flavors that echo cranberries rather than ripe cherries (as is typical of many New World Pinots these days); but it also never seems candied or sappy. 89 Paul Lukacs Sep 21, 2010

Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (South Africa) Pinot Noir 2007 ($40, Vineyard Brands): Hamilton Russell is an exemplary producer of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir working with fruit sourced from--for South Africa--relatively cool climate vineyards.  This is a very well made wine, showing fruit that is fully ripe but still quite fresh in character, with red and black cherry notes that offer generous flavor while still seeming quite delicate.  This delicacy is not overwhelmed by excessive oak, as there's just a hint of toasty, smoky wood around the margins, and the finish is brightened by a welcome edge of acidity.  If given a couple of years to develop secondary aromas, this will become a truly excellent Pinot. 89 Michael Franz Dec 2, 2008

Southern Right, Hemel-En-Aarde Valley (South Africa) Pinotage 2012 ($27, Vineyard Brands): This new release is the best vintage of Southern Right I’ve come across.  Clean yet with enough complexity to keep it interesting sip after sip, the food-friendly red wine is redolent of thyme, mint and other dried herbs, along with hints of chocolate and well balanced fruitiness.  It’s not at all jammy or extracted, and has only the tiniest suggestion of that mysterious trace of rubberiness that Pinotage often conveys.
89 Marguerite Thomas Mar 25, 2014

Stark-Condé, Jonkershoek Valley (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon “Three Pines” 2007 ($42, Vineyard Brands):  Intense and deeply flavorful, this is a dramatic wine that grabs one’s attention and doesn’t let go.  Perhaps its most impressive aspect is its aromatic complexity, as notes of dark berries, cassis, smoke, pine needles and eucalyptus all show themselves quite notably.  Full-bodied, with plenty of tannin and oak, this is a wine for pairing with assertive foods like grilled lamb. 91 Michael Franz Aug 3, 2010

Slowine, Overberg (South Africa) Shiraz 2006 ($12, Vinovative Imports): This is very sexy stuff, with sweet fruit recalling dark berries and very soft texture.  And yet, just when it seems that this will prove a little too fluffy to seem serious, a spicy, peppery edge shows up in the finish, making for a tasting experience that is actually interesting as well as pleasurable--which is quite a feat in this price range. 88 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Vilafonté, Paarl (South Africa) “Series M” 2004 ($52, Broadbent Selections): This project is a combined effort of California winemaker Zelma Long and grower Phil Freese, along with South African wine marketeer Mike Ratcliffe.  The Series M and Series C are both extraordinary in 2004, and though this bottling is the less expensive of the two, it is more complex and interesting at the current stage of its development.  A blend of 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 25% Malbec and 8% Cabernet Franc, it offers wonderful notes of dark cherries, plums and cassis, along with lovely accents of autumn leaves, cedar, spices, and toast.  The integration of all of these notes is excellent in the sense that they remain distinct but are still so proportionate that the wine seems complete and seamless.  An incredible wine. 95 Michael Franz Nov 25, 2008

Vilafonté, Paarl (South Africa) “Series C” 2004 ($72, Broadbent Selections): This is the flagship bottling from Vilafonté, which is a collaboration of Californians Zelma Long and Phil Freese with South African wine marketeer Mike Ratcliffe.  It is comprised of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec.  Although it cannot yet match the textural breadth or aromatic complexity of the amazing 2004 'Series M,' it is notably more intense and concentrated, and will not reveal its full dimension for another 3 to 5 years, at which point it will probably turn out to be the better of the two wines.  That should not suggest that it isn't terrific right now, as there's so much lovely fruit in the wine that it can easily be enjoyed with decanting and food.  But if you can keep your hand off of this for a few more years, you'll see why Long and Freese found it worth their while to venture to South Africa. 94 Michael Franz Nov 25, 2008

Go There Wines / Ses'Fikile Wines, Paarl (South Africa) Pinotage Reserve 2018 ($39):  South Africa’s third most planted red variety, Pinotage, is experiencing a renaissance.  This 2018 Reserve Pinotage is from Nondumiso Pikashe, who runs Ses'Fikile Wines, an indigenous brand based outside of Cape Town.  Ses'Fikile is an IsiXhosa word meaning “we have arrived,” reflecting Nondumiso’s constant awareness that Black women such as herself have been excluded from the world of wine in South Africa for far too long.  Her Pinotage bursts with blackberry sauce, plum, and boysenberry that carry through to the palate alongside well-integrated tannins and ample acidity.  It is harmonious and opulent with a mouthwatering finish.        
93 Miranda Franco Feb 27, 2024

Fairview, Paarl (South Africa) Shiraz "The Beacon" 2011 ($37, Vneyard Brands): Deep, dark, and multi-layered, this Shiraz resembles a French Syrah from the northern Rhône more than an Australian Shiraz, as it offers notes of pepper, spice, and smoke alongside its core of dark, ripe fruit.  With no hint of rubber, a characteristic still far too prevalent in South African red wines, it tastes delicious now.  Given its firm structure and evident tannins, it should also provide satisfying drinking for another five to eight years.
92 Paul Lukacs Aug 11, 2015

Fairview, Paarl (South Africa) Shiraz “Eenzaamheid” 2010 ($36, Vineyard Brands): There’s plenty of power and flavor in this wine, but what is most impressive about it is its freshness and subtlety. Showing both red and black fruit tones, with energizing acidity that is nicely balanced with the sweetness of the fruit and very well integrated with the wine’s flavors, this is beautifully focused and very versatile at the table.
92 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2013

Fairview, Paarl (South Africa) Shiraz "The Beacon" 2008 ($36, Vineyard Brands): This wine is ripe, soft, pleasantly earthy and fully mature, though hardly spent or on the downhill slide. The texture is rounded and pleasingly polished without seeming formless or lacking in structure, and earthy notes recalling wild mushrooms and cured meat are very appealing. The tannins are very ripe and soft, and there’s just a hint of alcoholic heat in the finish, but this definitely doesn’t compromise the wine’s overall performance.
92 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2013

Fairview, Paarl (South Africa) Shiraz “The Beacon” 2005 ($36): Long before Charles Back created his Goats do Roam label, he was making stellar wines at his Fairview property in Paarl, near Capetown.  This Shiraz, named for a nearby surveyor's beacon, is a big, ripe but well-balanced wine whose herbal aromas capture your immediate attention.  Its appealing combination of black-cherry-like flavors and black peppery notes shows that grape's great potential in South Africa.  Polished tannins allow you to enjoy it this winter. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2008

Fairview Estate, Paarl (South Africa) “Cape Granite Blend” 2014 ($16, Vineyard Brands):  This smooth, medium-bodied red wine is made from mountain-grown, hand harvested grapes. The red fruit flavors are bold and nicely balanced with a touch of spice.  Because it’s robust but not overly dramatic, this red wine is made to go with a range of different foods, from lamb chops to roast chicken, to pizza and red-sauced pastas.  Blended from Syrah (65%), Grenache (20%) and Tempranillo (15%). 90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 12, 2017

Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon “Gravel Quarry” 2004 ($45, Hess Imports): Juicy black cherry flavors, bright vibrant acidity and mild tannins make this a good choice for a steak tonight.  With more acidity than many similarly styles wines from California, it will go better with--rather than before--dinner. 90 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007

Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) "Grand Classique" 2008 ($20, The Hess Collection):  A plush Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Malbec (16%), Merlot (14%), Petit Verdot (13%) and Cabernet Franc, Glen Carlou’s Grand Classique is rich without being overdone.  Bright cherry-like acidity keeps it fresh and lively.  Smoky, herbal nuances complement the ripe flavors.  Overall, it has beautiful balance of ripe fruit and savory elements.  Supple tannins allow immediate enjoyment. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2011

Tormentoso, Paarl (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($13, Vineyard Brands):  Tormentoso delivers a lot of taste for a relatively modest price.  A gutsy, fruit forward, entirely modern, internationally styled Cabernet, it has lots of red berry and plum flavors mingling with hints of vanilla and cedar.
90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 23, 2012

Backsberg, Paarl (South Africa) Merlot 2008 ($14, Frederick Wildman):  Merlot has taken its fair share of bashing, often deserved.  But there are plenty of distinctive ones, such as this wine, that are easy to recommend because they deliver an appealing combination of ripe fruit notes and leafy, savory elements.  Backsberg’s 2008 Merlot has ripe and plumy notes offset by earthy nuance.  Not overdone, it’s nicely balanced with polished tannins. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2011

Black Pearl Vineyards, Paarl (South Africa) “Oro” 2006 ($15, Southern Starz): A winning combination of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon in a 60/40 ratio, this shows a very appealing ripe sweetness in both the aromas and flavors.  This ripe sweetness never seems overdone or raisiny, and never grows tiresome.  Fruit notes of black cherry and red berry are braced by just enough tannin to lend grip and definition.  This is a very tasty crowd pleaser that can also hold the interest of serious wine geeks. 88 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) “Grand Classique” 2008 ($20, Hess Collection):  A Bordeaux blend, marked by dark fruit flavors and hints of cedar, this is a substantial wine that should benefit from a few years of cellaring.  It has the sort of tannic structure that suggests not just endurance but actual improvement with time in bottle.  One caveat, though:  While it does not display the annoying rubbery note that mars the bouquet of so many South African reds, it does carry a hint of band-aid or plastic on the palate.  Experience suggests that this odd flavor sometimes dissipates with time.   If it does here, the wine will merit a 90+ score. 88 Paul Lukacs Apr 26, 2011

Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($16, Hess Imports): Plump black cherry flavors buttressed by uplifting acidity and fine tannins make this wine an excellent buy.  Not an 'aperitif' wine, it goes best with hearty beef dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008

Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) “Grand Classique” 2009 ($20, Hess Family):  A Bordeaux blend, with compellingly long and evolving flavors, this wine suffers slightly from a hint of rubber in the bouquet.  Many South African reds share this odd aromatic note.  I don’t know where it comes from--perhaps the winemaking, the cellars, or even local preferences--but it undoubtedly is there.  With this wine, it does not extend onto the palate, where the wine is truly exciting because multi-layered, with more than ripe fruit on its calling card.  Nonetheless, it’s a bit disconcerting when you smell it. 8 Paul Lukacs Nov 13, 2012

Kanonkop, Simonsberg (Stellenbosch, South Africa) Pinotage 2007 ($35, Cape Classics): Many wine critics (especially in Britain) love to flog Pinotage, and many bottlings of this cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault deserve a flogging, but this wine proves (year after year) that Pinotage can be excellent.  Deep and dark in color, it features ripe fruit recalling blackberries and black plums, along with a smoky, spicy edge and a leafy undertone.  Pair with grilled red meats.
90 Michael Franz Oct 6, 2009

Warwick Estate, Simonsberg - Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Estate Reserve” 2001 ($33, Broadbent Selections): Fully mature but not tiring from age, this wine shows a very appealing balance of resilient primary fruit notes (predominantly suggesting dark berries) along with emerging secondary aromas including autumn leaves, damp earth, and wild mushrooms.  The oak seems completely resolved at this stage of development, yet there's a hint of spice in the finish that may be a lingering trace of it.  Very nicely integrated, this bears a significant likeness to Bordeaux, and could be put to comparable uses at the table. 90 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2008

Kanonkop, Simonsberg – Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage 2006 ($33, Cape Classics):

It has become quite fashionable among wine writers to bash Pinotage, and frankly, the fact is that many renditions of this distinctively South African variety (a cross between Cinsault and Pinot Noir) richly deserve a bashing.  But this is an excellent wine by almost any standard, being free of flaws and possessing considerable virtues.  Darkly pigmented and deep in flavor, it is nevertheless not overbearing.  Dark berry fruit notes show nice purity and freshness, with some meaty, smoky accents around the edges.  The tannins are well measured to provide backbone but minimal astringency, and the oak notes are likewise well matched to the fruit.  This would be very good with barbequed foods, and my sample held up for three days in an open bottle, which is pretty damned impressive.

Noble Hill, Simonsberg-Paarl (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ($20, Invoer):  From grapes grown on the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountains, this very elegant Cabernet Sauvignon expresses flavors of red fruits with a pleasant hint of mint in the background.  Noble Hill is a family operated winery, and all the grapes are estate grown.  Includes 7% Cabernet Franc. 
92 Marguerite Thomas Feb 13, 2018

Kanonkop, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage 2008 ($35, Cape Classics):  Kanonkop is a classic producer of old-vine Pinotage, using open-top concrete fermenters and regular punch downs of the cap, for more color, texture and flavor.  Aging was in new and second-fill French oak for 15 months, then bottled without fining or filtration.  The color is a deep ruby and the aromatics show bright berry and spicy French oak with a subtle smoked meat back note.  Packed with richly-textured fruit, the wine is finished at a moderate 14% alcohol.  This is a classy Pinotage with depth and complexity. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 10, 2010

Warwick Estate, South Africa (South Africa) “Three Cape Ladies” 2005 ($25):  This “Cape Blend” of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage, Shiraz and Merlot, “brings the best of Pinotage to the classic French varieties.”  A popular blend for Warwick Estate, the wine was aged for 24 months in French oak, of which 30% was new.  It has a very deep ruby color, lovely spicy French oak nose with mocha and dark fruit accents.  The palate is medium, balanced and seamless with forward French oak, long-chain fine tannins, good length, 14.5% alcohol and no heat.  This is a very nice blend! 90 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 28, 2010

Lindemans, South Africa (South Africa) Merlot 2005 ($8, FWE Imports): It's not easy to find a Merlot with appealing varietal character for less than $10, but this one delivers. The fruit-forward flavors are bright blueberry supported by subtle oak notes that lead to a nicely structure medium finish. For my taste, this is the best of the lot of four new releases from Lindemans South Africa. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 19, 2006

Lindemans, South Africa (South Africa) Shiraz 2005 ($8, FWE Imports): The traditional Aussie approach to Shiraz (Syrah) is evident in this juicy wine.  Forward ripe dark berry flavors, hints of anise and coconut from aging in American oak. It is nicely balanced with good length and comes close to the new Lindemans South Africa Merlot in appeal. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 19, 2006

Lindemans, South Africa (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($8, FWE Imports): Up-front menthol/eucalypt aromas and flavors dominate this cabernet that shows hints of dried herbs.  The herbal-menthol flavors are balanced with ripe berry nuances and touches of spicy French oak, leading to a medium finish. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 19, 2006

Helderberg Wijnmakerij, Stellenboch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($13, Vineyard Brands):  The only thing this wine lacks is an accompanying guide to let us know how to pronounce its name.   Everything else about it is easy, from the price, to the stylish black and white graphics on the label, to the smooth savory flavors.  Helderberg Wijnmakerij produces a range of wines (Merlot, Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc in addition to the Cabernet), some of which I’ve tasted, all of which I’ve found appealing. Helderberg is a Western Cape winemaking area.

89 Marguerite Thomas Sep 13, 2011

MR de Compostella, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Red Blend 2015 ($85):  This wine is the product of a team effort by winemakers and friends Mzokona Mvemve (the M) and Bruwer Raats (the R).  The first vintage was 2004, and every vintage is different due to a rather unique blending process.  The two of them score each potential component individually, pushing aside everything that doesn’t attain an average score of 90, and then work together to assemble what they believe will be the best wine attainable from the materials provided by the particular growing season.  Well, 2015 is a famously outstanding vintage for red wines in Stellenbosch, so it is hardly surprising that this is a smashing success.  It is a very expressive and flavorful wine, but really not heavy, and is either at the lighter end of “full-bodied” or the meatier end of “medium-bodied.”  The aromas are wonderfully complex and alluring, and the flavors show both red and black fruit tones, though the balance leans toward black.  The tannins are abundant but fine in grain, and the wood component is perfectly tuned to the weight and flavor impact of the wine.  One aspect that I particularly admire is that there’s nothing overblown about this -- none of the extraneous weight or wood or ripeness that I often find in what I refer to as “statement wines.”  I remarked on this when tasting it with Bruwer Raats, who simply responded, “There are enough monsters in the world.”  Well said.  And by the way, I also tasted the 2016 edition with Mzokona Mvemve a few days later and it, too, is terrific. 
96 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2018

Beeslaar, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage 2014 ($55, Broadbent Selections):  This is great wine made from Pinotage, and though I know there will be wine snobs out in the world who don’t believe that such a thing is possible, they are wrong.  And this wine proves it beyond any possible doubt--at least for anyone who is capable of tasting past their own prejudices.  It is dark in color and very deeply flavored, but shows no excess heaviness nor the slightest hint of raisining or over-ripeness (which is extremely important regarding Pinotage, which hits an optimal ripeness point only very briefly before acidity drops, with unpleasant results).  The flavors show both red and black fruit tones, with a hint of spice from wood and some excellent freshening acidity.  Impeccably pure and natural-seeming, this offers an extremely long finish that remains perfectly proportioned, as all of the flavor notes tail off evenly.  This may be the best Pinotage that I’ve ever tasted, though I’ve tasted plenty of very good ones.  Still, I worry that readers won’t take seriously the phrase “best Pinotage,” so let me just conclude with:  This is a great wine.
95 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2018

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Lady May” Red Blend 2011 ($50, Cape Classics): This flagship wine from Glenelly is entirely convincing and very Bordeaux-like, with lots of tannic grip but plenty of underlying fruit to permit this to develop in positive ways for at least a decade -- probably longer…and possibly much longer.  Cabernet Sauvignon is predominant, with dollops of Petit Verdot and Merlot.  Nearly 100% of the wine is aged for 24 months in new French Oak, so it is apparent from the formula that this is a very serious wine.  With that said, though, it is definitely enjoyable now with sufficiently robust food incorporating some dietary fat, so don’t shy away from ordering it if you see the wine offered on a restaurant wine list.  Still, buying this in a retail shop and laying it down for at least 5 years is highly recommended.
95 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Raats Family Wines, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Franc 2015 ($40, Cape Classics):  I’ve never tasted a vintage of this wine that didn’t leave me impressed, but I’ve also never tasted one as impressive as this 2015 (a great vintage for Bordeaux varieties from Stellenbosch, though not necessarily for leaner-style wines from cooler appellations).  Bruwer Raats is one of the country’s most accomplished and insightful winemakers, and tasting with him was such a pleasure that I’ve actually nicked a point off my score for this wine just to adjust for any excessive enthusiasm that could result from my esteem for him.  With that said, I also elected to buy a bottle of this in Cape Town to lug back to Washington, D.C. with me, and if you reflect on the massive disincentive to do this as the cost of waiting in the baggage claim area of an airport after 34 hours in transit…you’ll know just how highly I regard the wine.  One of the world’s undeniably great renditions of Cabernet Franc, this shows serious concentration but not the slightest heaviness, with wonderful red fruit tones but black fruit nuances as well.  With excellent acidity (especially for the vintage) and lots of fine-grained tannin, this shows impeccable balance and great precision in every important dimension.  In retrospect, I wish I’d bought more of it, and intend to do exactly that.  Fantastic wine. 
95 Michael Franz Sep 18, 2018

Vergelegen, Stellenbosch (South Africa) "Vergelegen" Estate Red 2001 ($65, 57 Main Street): The wines from Vergelegen, widely regarded in South Africa as one of that country's premier winegrowing estates, have just recently begun to be imported into the United States. The whole range is good, but the top-of-the-line red, simply called "Vergelegen," is outstanding. A Bordeaux-styled blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, it can hold its own with any comparably fashioned wine in the New World, including more expensive proprietary blends from northern California. Marked by deep, dark fruit flavors and a complex undertone hinting at earth, minerals, and spice, this wine simply exudes class. 95 Paul Lukacs Aug 9, 2005

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Lady May” 2012 ($55, Cape Classics):  I had the pleasure of visiting this estate in the vintage that this wine comes from, and the aromas and flavors bring a fond memory to mind.  The winery flagship, it carries old world Bordeaux character with signature South African minerality, and this late release brings us a wine that is just before peak, and will enjoy a few good years there before starting an elegant fade.  At this price, it’s a real treat.  While you wait for travel restrictions to be lifted, take a little trip south.  Contains 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc.      
94 Rich Cook Jul 28, 2020

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah “Glass Collection” 2015 ($17, Cape Classics): This was among the very most exciting wines I tasted while in South Africa last week, though I admit that I approached it with some skepticism.  It was presented relatively early in an extensive tasting, and when winemaker Luke O’Cuinneagain introduced it, he said it was inspired by the wines of Alain Graillot, a very highly regarded winemaker in France’s Rhône Valley.  Whenever I hear this sort of cross-country comparison, I’m now habituated to thinking to myself, “Yeah, right” while engaging in internal eye-rolling that I hope isn’t externally visible.  And yet, from my first sniff and sip, I had to admit that I could easily mistake this wine for a Crozes-Hermitage from a top growing site in an excellent vintage…and not just when I was having an off-day as a taster.  (Sorry Luke…you were right and I was wrong.)  Beautiful red berry fruit holds center stage, but there’s also an earthy aromatic streak that is clean (meaning, no brettanomyces) and nice, bright acidity as well as just a faint touch of oak.  At $17, this is a mind-blowing value, worth twice that price by global standards.  The USA importer (Cape Classics) doesn’t take this wine based on belief that it is too hard to sell Syrah in the USA.  So, I’ll be looking for this overseas, and if I find it, I’ll do what my friend and WRO colleague Michael Apstein does:  Just buy another suitcase and throw it in the attic after getting the wine back home.
94 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2017

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cape Blend “Frans Malan" 2016 ($38, Quintessential Wines):  I love this!  It shows complete aromatic integration of blackberry, wild flowers and vanilla, all delivered in dry style on the palate with a firm grip, gentle pepper and just the slightest ironite note that lets you know where it's from without overwhelming things.  It disappears in the finish, leaving great fruit and spice push.  This will age a bit, and it’s a bargain at this price.  Lovely!  Contains 70% Pinotage, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot.            
94 Rich Cook Dec 28, 2021

DeMorgenzon, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah Reserve 2015 ($32, Cape Classics):  This is indisputably excellent Syrah that really recalls the Northern Rhône more than renditions of this variety from anywhere in the New World.  It shows nice richness and depth of flavor, but really just medium body, and the oak is very wisely proportioned to the wine’s weight, lending spice and structure without distracting from the beautifully fresh fruit flavors.  Lovely perfume (recalling violets) shows through the woody aromas, and the overall impression is one of purity and stylishness along with good complexity. 
93 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2018

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Estate Reserve” Red Blend 2011 ($27, Cape Classics): This nicely-matured blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot is impressively complex, with each of the included varieties showing their various contributions.  The wine is released relatively late because, I am told, the Syrah element is dominant early on.  That seems plausible enough, as the fruit component is relatively restrained in relation to the spice notes and savory layer.  Fine-grained tannins, a notably dry profile, and nascent tertiary aromas give this an Old World style that really makes it a wine for food -- and an outstanding one.
93 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

L’Avenir, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Red Blend “Stellenbosch Classic” 2015 ($27, Canon Wines): This is L’Avenir’s best red wine, just a nose in front of the “Single Block” Pinotage and tied with the wonderful “Single Block” Chenin Blanc.  Blended from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it is admirably complex, with layered flavors and texture and an essentially perfect balance of fruit and oak.  It shows the slightest herbal aromatic edge, which if experienced while tasting “blind” would make one wonder whether it is an Old or New World wine.  Yet this scent is neither vegetal nor remotely distracting…it just makes the wine easier to enjoy and harder to pigeonhole.  Cultured and convincing, this is terrific.
93 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2017

Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) "Rubicon" 2005 ($28, Maisons Marques and Domaines): As good as Meerlust’s other wines are--and they are quite good--this one, their flagship, is delectable.  The blend of the Bordeaux-style wine varies from vintage to vintage.  The 2005 is roughly 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder split equally between Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Plumper than their very good Merlot (previously reviewed), it retains a firm spine for support.  It strikes a balance between the New World and the Old, with the rich, lush fruit of the former balanced by the structure of the latter.  Smoky, savory qualities appear with time in the glass and complement the plum and black cherry notes.  The tannins and oak are well integrated, which allows for current enjoyment, but the overall balance and structure suggests it will evolve beautifully over the next decade. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2009

Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Merlot 2005 ($27, Maison Marques and Domaines): While many California wineries are releasing their 2006 and 2007 Merlot, this 2005 is Meerlust’s current offering.  As a family owned winery, Meerlust can avoid the bean counters’ focus on quarterly returns and hold the wine until they think its ready for release.  Hannes Myburgh, the current head of Meerlust, says his father started the practice in the 1970s because he wanted a wine to be more integrated and enjoyable to drink upon release.  Judging by this wine, it was a sound decision.  This Merlot is not a massive wine or a fruit bomb.  Rather, alluring herbal nuances complement the black fruit flavors.  Earthy, savory notes speak loudly.  Fine tannins give it a backbone and requisite acidity keeps it lively.  The bottle age has allowed it to come together beautifully.  Its complexity is best appreciated at the dinner table, not as an aperitif type of Merlot.  Another fine value from South Africa. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2009

Rust En Vrede, Stellenbosch (South Africa) "Estate" 2003 ($47, Vineyard Brands): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Syrah (30%, and called Shiraz on the back label), and Merlot (10%), this bold South African red tastes both distinctive and delicious. It displays plenty of rich, ripe dark fruit, and then enhances those primary flavors with intriguing secondary ones that resemble wood smoke, pipe tobacco and dried herbs. In addition, it has a wonderfully long finish that itself seems multi-layered, with unexpected flavors emerging throughout. The wine is full-bodied but not heavy, and while it probably will benefit from a few years of aging, provides fine drinking right now. 93 Paul Lukacs Oct 17, 2006

Aslina, Stellenbosch (South Africa) "Umsasane" 2020 ($38, Wine For The World):  Winemaker Ntsiki Biyela is the first female black winemaker in South Africa.  She launched her brand, Aslina Wines, in 2016, named after her grandmother.  In 2017 she was named one of the year's Most Innovative Women in Food and Drink by Fortune. “Umsasane” is the local name for the umbrella acacia tree, which was also the nickname of Ntsiki's grandmother Aslina.  Her red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot is rich and elegant, with elements of violets, sage, blackberry, plum, bell pepper, and tobacco.  On the palate, you'll feel the broadness and impressive depth of the wine, with smooth tannins and balanced acidity.  Drink this knockout wine now and over the next decade.        
92 Miranda Franco Sep 6, 2022

Aslina Wines, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($25, Wine For The World):  Winemaker Ntsiki Biyela is the first female black winemaker in South Africa.  Biyela received her winemaking degree from Stellenbosch University in 2003, working for Stellekaya Winery the following year, where she spent 13 years as winemaker and ambassador.  She launched her brand, Aslina Wines, in 2016, named after her grandmother.  Today, she sits on the board of directors for the Pinotage Youth Development Academy, which provides wine-industry training and development for young South Africans in the Cape Winelands.  Her 2020 Cabernet is delightfully elegant.  It is fresh yet structured with cocoa, cedar, plum, blackberry, and eucalyptus flavors.  Its rich body is framed by bold, supporting tannins and bright acidity.  It is well balanced, with a long, persistent finish.  This easily challenges Cabernets at much higher prices and has tremendous aging potential.       
92 Miranda Franco Mar 8, 2022

Craven, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cinsault 2016 ($24, Vine Street and Metro Cellars):  There’s a lot of Cinsault in South Africa, leading this winemaking duo to refer to it as “the red Chenin,” which makes good sense (Chenin is also widely planted, and for decades wasn’t taken seriously, but is now on the rise).  This is a very unusual and exciting little wine, and I don’t employ the word “little” to diminish this in any way.  On the contrary, it impresses precisely because it is fine and fresh and fun it its lightness, with very bright, tart red cherry fruit with fine tannins that are entirely appropriate to the weight of the wine.  It is bottled just five months after vinification to capture these characteristics.  Extremely useful, this would make wickedly good Thanksgiving wine if you can track down a bottle. 92 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2017

De Toren, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Fusion V” 2006 ($45, Cape Classics): Interesting, complex and stylish, this wine is comprised of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec and 7% Petit Verdot.  Like other elite blends made in a Bordeaux-like style in South Africa, it offers interesting aromas even at a relatively young age.  Perhaps even more important is the fact that it offers deep, satisfying fruit flavors that have two notable characteristics:  The fruit isn't so assertive as to steamroll the wine's more subtle nuances, and the fruit isn't overtly sweet in its ripeness.  Notes of blackberries and blackcurrants are pure and very pleasant, and are backed by deftly measured wood and subtle backnotes of toast and spices and cocoa.  This is ready to enjoy now with food, but can certainly develop additional complexities if permitted to age for another 5 to 8 years. 92 Michael Franz Nov 4, 2008

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon “Glass Collection” 2014 ($17, Cape Classics): This is a Bordeaux-inspired wine founded in 2003 by a Bordeaux-based woman (May de Lencquesaing, then owner of the famous Ch. Pichon Lalande).  The first vintages were even more Bordeaux-like than this one, with an early austerity that stemmed from the fact that all lots of Cabernet were vinified with a view to including them in the long-lived flagship bottling, “Lady May.”  Experience showed that it was better to go with less new oak and less extraction for this more affordable wine, and yet it hardly seems “dumbed down.”  It is medium-plus in body, with restrained ripeness and a very subtle leafy aromatic streak, but a beam of fruity sweetness running through the mid-palate and finish make this easy to enjoy even without food.  This versatility is also enhanced by a wise decision to release this after it has some bottle age under its screw cap closure.  Look for this 2014 vintage, and look for me ahead of you in the checkout line.
92 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2017

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Cobbler’s Hill” 2004 ($38, Vinovative Imports): A blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 21% Cabernet Franc, this is an excellent example of how complex and interesting South Africa's Bordeaux-style blends can be.  My sense is that the Cabernet Franc is a very important component in the genre as a whole and also in this particular wine, as the lightly herbal, leafy aromatic notes really give it a whiff of Bordeaux.  However, the core fruit notes (which recall blackberries and black plums) are ripe and expressive, recalling New World wines.  Now more than four years old, the wine is also starting to show secondary notes from age that offer interesting counterpoints to the still-fresh primary fruit, which has already soaked up the oak to provide an integrated profile. 92 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Kanonkop, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage 2019 ($40, Cape Classics):  Pinotage, a cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, thrives in the Stellenbosch region of South Africa.  Kanonkop has long been recognized as producing the benchmark for this variety.  Their 2019 Pinotage has a nose of peppery dark fruits.  The palate is beautifully balanced with spiced cherries and an undercurrent of earth, followed by roasted plum and black tea elements.  It is a generously structured Pinotage with robust, juicy fruit flavors and pronounced oak elements.  The wine continues to evolve over the long-lingering finish.         
92 Miranda Franco Jun 6, 2023

L’Avenir, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage “Single Block” 2015 ($30, Canon Wines): Sourced from a single parcel of old vines, this shows excellent fruit concentration and very nicely balanced wood spice and acidity.  Importantly, it also shows an enticingly earthy streak that gives this a sense of European style.  Very well made and sure to improve for years to come, this is just the sort of wine needed to make Pinotage haters realize how good this variety can be.
92 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Meerlust, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) "Rubicon" 2013 ($30, Maisons, Marques & Domaines):  Meerlust’s Rubicon bottling is an iconic Bordeaux blend from Stellenbosch in South Africa with a long and exemplary history.  For the current price, it’s a remarkable value.  Drawn from several vineyard sites in Stellenbosch that provide excellent habitats for the individual grape varieties in the blend, the 2013 bottling continues the tradition of superb quality.  The 2013 Meerlust Rubicon is rich with blackberry, blackcurrant and red cherry fruits underscored by hints of herbs, violets, tobacco, smoke, vanilla and baking spices.  It is a big and robust red with its beautiful layering of flavors that is meant to develop in the cellar for several more years to reach its peak drinkability.  Give it some aeration if you drink it soon but, by all means, stash away some of this South African classic for yourself before it disappears from the market. 92 Wayne Belding Apr 10, 2018

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage “Redhill” 2017 ($38, Quintessential Wines):   Pinotage isn’t for everyone, but if you’re a fan of domestic Petite Sirah, you should give this bottling a serious look.  Like a fine Petite Sirah, it’s a tannin driven wine that lets its fruit loose midpalate, with blackberry, blueberry, fall spice and a dash of cassis, and then finishes with a tight grip.  Despite that, it has great flavor push, and will sit well alongside braised beef short ribs or roast lamb.  I’m a fan!    
92 Rich Cook Mar 31, 2020

Stellenbosch Vineyards, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage Bushwine 2016 ($16, VinAmericas):  This elegant and inviting Pinotage is distinguished by juicy red and black fruits and a plush texture.  Notes of spice and oak flavors add to the overall complexity of this winning wine from South Africa’s Stellenbosch region, where Pinotage (a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault) was born in 1924. 
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 16, 2018

De Toren, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Fusion V” 2005 ($45, Cape Classics):  This excellent blend is comprised of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 14% Malbec, 11% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot.  Although it is amply supplied with fruit (mostly showing dark berry tones), there are also lots of smoky notes from oak as well a notable minerality and whiffs of dustiness and eucalyptus.  Deeply flavored and impressively concentrated, it is nevertheless more notable for complexity and class, which are even more rare and valuable characteristics these days. 91 Michael Franz Oct 13, 2009

L’Avenir, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage Rosé “Glenrosé” 2016 ($15, Canon Wines): Everybody knows that Pinotage has its detractors (both within South Africa but especially elsewhere around the world, though the number of detractors who have actually tasted recent releases has declined dramatically, and I am among those with a recently revived respect for the variety.  Be that as it may, the team at L’Avenir likes Pinotage a lot more than Cabernet Sauvignon or Cab Franc for making rosé, and this wine provides a convincing case in point.  It shows lovely, classy pale color and very pretty fruit to match, and though this is a decidedly dry wine (only 1.6 grams per liter of residual sugar, which is very low by global standards for rosé), it is quite flavorful and by no means austere.  One can only imagine how exciting the even fresher 2017 will be when released soon, but there’s no rush…this still tastes terrific.
91 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2017

Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Merlot 2000 ($25, Maisons, Marques & Domains): Before you scoff at a $25 Merlot from South Africa, let me say: This is clearly underpriced if quality relative to global competition is our criterion. Seriously complex and perfectly mature (recall that this is actually a 1999.5 in northern hemispheric terms), it shows very complex aromas that recall Pomerol more than Napa. Notes of black plums, red berries, dried herbs, mushrooms and leather are very interesting and impressively proportioned. Meerlust is one of South Africas greatest estates, but I sometimes find that their wines are a bit dried out by the time they are released here. However, this one is right on the money, and your money will be well spent on this one. 91 Michael Franz Nov 8, 2005

Rudi Schultz, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2006 ($37, Cape Classics): Although this wine shows lots of ripe fruit, it also offers a lot more than just simple, juicy flavors.  Interesting savory notes including carpaccio provide an interesting counterpoint to the dark berry fruit flavors, and smoky, spicy, leathery complexities peek out at various points in the progression of the wine’s persistent finish.  Impressive stuff. 91 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2009

Rudi Schultz, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2004 ($30, Cape Classics): Rudi Schultz is best known as the talented winemaker at Thelema, a producer known for their stellar Cabernet Sauvignon.  He also makes a small amount of wine--this excellent Syrah--under his own name.  It's a marvelous combination of both the ripe, plummy side of Syrah as well as the peppery notes that it can show.  Hints of bacon fat add to its overall appeal.  It has great intensity without being overblown or over-the-top.  A delight to drink now, its balance suggests it will evolve nicely with bottle age. 91 Michael Apstein May 5, 2009

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon “Labyrinth” 2016 ($23, Quintessential Wines):  Here’s a well-structured Cabernet from a region not necessarily renowned for the variety, and at a nice price to boot.  True to type aromas with good depth lead to a palate that shows a mix of blackberry, dried herbs, hints of soft charred oak and earthy minerality, with a fine-tuned balance of all the flavors riding a moderate tannic grip though a blooming finish.  Quite impressive in this price category! 
91 Rich Cook Jan 29, 2019

Stellenbosch Vineyards, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Shiraz 2014 ($15, VinAmericas):  Stellenbosch is one of the largest wine producing and exporting regions of South Africa, and perhaps the most famous as well.  While the climate in this scenic region is relatively hot and dry, a maritime influence from the south brings cooling afternoon breezes.  Stellenbosch Vineyards’ Shiraz is deeply hued and has bold red fruit flavors that are appetizingly ripe without being overly sweet.  The tannins are well balanced, the alcohol is not intrusive, and the finish is pleasantly long.  
91 Marguerite Thomas Jan 8, 2019

Thistle & Weed, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Franc “Knapsêkerel” 2020 ($38, Vine Street Imports):  Thistle and Weed is a collaboration between the Terblanche and Wiid families established in 2015, led by Etienne Terblanche (Viticulturist) and Stephanie Wiid (Winemaker).  The 2020 Thistle and Weed Knapsekêrel Cabernet Franc announces itself with enticing brambly fruit — crushed blackberry and black and red cherry underpinned by spicy tones of cracked peppercorn and smoked chili peppers.  A granitic minerality runs through it all.  It is energetic and satisfying, with chalky tannins closing out the layered and slightly spicy finish.            
91 Miranda Franco Jan 30, 2024

Cape Hutton, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($21, Emerging South): This was my first taste of this excellent wine, which is new to the USA. Certain South African reds really recall Bordeaux more than Napa or Maipo or Coonawarra, and this (at least in this vintage) is one of them. A superb bouquet of blackcurrants, cedar, pencil shavings and lightly spicy oak gets this off to a great start, and all of these notes are replicated in a tightly symmetrical pattern on the palate and in the finish. Very impressive stuff, and a great deal to boot! 90 Michael Franz Jun 27, 2006

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon "Glass Collection" 2015 ($20, Cape Classics):  Glenelly's 2015 "Glass Collection" Cabernet Sauvignon is a tasty, wallet friendly wine that speaks of place in the best way.  Blackberry and currants, plus roast coffee and a dash of minty freshness that serve to brighten the fruit.  Moderate grip keeps the flavors pumping, and the finish keeps all the elements in play.  Very nicely done!   
90 Rich Cook Dec 17, 2019

Monterosso, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2001 ($18): This interesting, distinctive, complex wine would be impressive at any reasonable price, but is really quite remarkable at $18. Nicely mature at this point, it shows very interesting aromas of leather, cedar, spices and graphite that accent fruit notes akin to cassis, black plum and blackberry. Medium-bodied but full of flavor, it shows nice structural balance thanks to fresh acidity and lots of fine-grained tannin. Wondering about the age of this wine, I tasted it again 24 hours after opening to see if it was played out, and it had only gotten more interesting. 90 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2006

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ($24, Vineyard Brands): Sumptuously colored deep, dark purple, this South African gem is equally opulent in its aromatic elements that bring to mind a gust of chocolate-mint balanced by black pepper, spring blossoms and a hint of earthiness vaguely reminiscent of roasted beets.  The red currant fruit flavor that floods the palate is tempered by a perfect edge of acidity, and gentle tannins on the finish add to the overall intricacy of this very appealing wine.
90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 13, 2016

Raats Family Wines, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Franc 2007 ($28, Cape Classics): Cabernet Franc with notable varietal character isn't to everyone's liking, but I certainly find them very interesting and broadly useful with food.  This rendition shows lots of the herbal, leafy aromatic note that is this grape's telltale characteristic, though--importantly--this note comes off as herbal rather than vegetal or 'green' and under-ripe.  The underlying ripeness of fruit, which shows dark cherry and berry notes, is very pleasant, and accents of espresso beans, woodsmoke and minerals all contribute to this lovely medium-bodied wine. 90 Michael Franz Nov 4, 2008

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon “Labyrinth” 2004 ($20, Quintessential): This wine is a deal, and it is bordering on a steal.  It shows a level of complexity that is almost impossible to find in Cabernet from anywhere in the world at this price point, and no place other than Chile's Maipo Valley can really rival Stellenbosch in this respect.  The aromatics are particularly impressive, with notes of dark berries and black cherries accented with hints of cedar, tobacco leaf, espresso beans, cocoa and spices.  The primary fruit still shows, but emerging secondary aromas and flavors make this particularly interesting to drink already, and since the wine isn't particularly heavy, it would be a perfect partner for something like simple roasted beef. 90 Michael Franz Nov 11, 2008

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage 2015 ($18, Quintessential Wines):  Beautifully ripe red fruit flavors (cherry, raspberry, strawberry), with undernotes of earthiness and a subtle suggestion of baking spices, especially cinnamon, set this Pinotage above the competition.  Unobtrusive oak spice adds to the overall sophistication of this topnotch wine. 
90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 26, 2019

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage 2016 ($18, Quintessential Wines):  Perhaps second to Merlot in the “unfairly maligned varieties” category, Pinotage is in fact capable of producing some quality wine, as is the case with this budget friendly bottling.  The most common complaint I hear is about an iodine character, and while I’ve tasted some examples, there’s none of it present here -- just bright black cherry fruit, bay leaf and gentle brown spice, with great acidity, moderate grip and a long, blooming finish where some earthy notes dance among the fruit, herb and spice.  Duck confit fans -- give this a whirl. 
90 Rich Cook Jan 29, 2019

Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2007 ($20, Vineyard Brands):  Leathery, earthy, meaty and spicy, with a wallop of ripe fruit and reasonably well integrated tannins, this gutsy South African wine really comes into its own with food.  It is, of course, a good partner with red meat--a lean cut of beef--for example, and superb with pork (it’s terrific with pan seared pork chops). 90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 15, 2011

Thelema, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($41, Cape Classics):  This wine won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it sure suited mine.  Many of South Africa’s finer reds straddle the stylistic line separating New and Old World styles, but this bottling definitely leans toward the European profile.  The aromas show herbal, leafy, dusty noes that one might associate with the Loire or Tuscany, and the fruit is restrained in its ripeness, showing a more meaty than fruity character.  Wood is notable but certainly not overbearing, and this would be a great choice for pairing with relatively simple meat dishes like prime rib or roast beef. 90 Michael Franz Oct 6, 2009

Warwick Estate, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Franc 2005 ($33, Broadbent Selections): Cabernet Franc is used relatively widely in South Africa's broader Cape region as a component in blends, but a few producers also turn out straight varietal wines such as this one.  It is excellent, with just enough herbal aromatic character to keep the grape variety in mind, but not so much as to make it conspicuously obvious--much less green or vegetal, which is where Cab Franc goes when it goes wrong.  Medium-plus body and impressively deep flavors make for a satisfying impression on the mid-palate, and the finish is impressively persistent and symmetrical. 90 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2008

Warwick Estate, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage Old Bush Vines 2007 ($19, Broadbent Selections):  The old bush vines give this Warwick Pinotage the deep structure and intense fruit of a Syrah-like red.  Fermented on the skins for richness and complexity, the wine was then aged in French oak barrels for 14 months.  The color is deep ruby-garnet and the nose shows traces of blackberry and spice.  Big tannins, dominate the textured fruit and spice flavors and the wine finishes with 14.47% alcohol and a trace of bitterness.  The 2007 Warwick represents good value and is an example of the welcome direction that Pinotage is going. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 10, 2010

Warwick Estate, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Reserve 2018 ($70, Elektra Wines):  The 2018 Warwick Estate Reserve presents a medium purple, ruby color in the glass.  The nose leads with dark roasted coffee beans, followed by subdued fruit notes with more apparent red licorice and anise seed notes.  On the palate the wine is structured by medium plus acidity and while the tannins start well buffered, the balance of the wine changes and finishes drier, with a dusty element.  Lifted red fruit notes continue on the palate, showing more of the character of Cabernet Franc as opposed to Cabernet Sauvignon, which would be darker and potentially a bit herbal.  It seems as if it could benefit from additional bottle age, as it seems a bit simple at the moment.  This may repay cellaring for the medium term, but it will depend on your tolerance for the drying finish.  The wine was aged in 34% new, French oak barrels for 24 months.       
90 Andrew Holod Sep 12, 2023

De Toren, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Z” 2006 ($30, Cape Classics): An impressive blend of 33% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 12% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot, this is approachable and structured at the same time.  Fruit notes of black cherries and plums are accented with hints of autumn leaves, spices and leather.  Rich but not heavy or obvious, this is fairly priced and very appealing, with the sole exception of a hint of excessive bitterness in the finish.  That characteristic is diminished to insignificance when the wine is paired with food. 89 Michael Franz Nov 4, 2008

DMZ by DeMorgenzon, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2016 ($15, Cape Classics):  This is very good wine to use for discovering how good and how versatile South African Syrah can be.  Almost no varietal Syrah from other New World countries can match this for quality, and though Aussie renditions are the exception, offering lots of flavor for the money, they are rarely as nuanced, fresh, or food-friendly.  This is made entirely from estate-grown fruit, and shows bright berry character that really lingers on the palate.  Its calling card is freshness more than ripeness or richness, but that’s precisely why you’ll enjoy having a second glass of it, and why it will perform well at your table. 
89 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2018

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2005 ($20, Vinovative Imports): The 2005 growing season in Stellenbosch was rather warm, providing a lot of ripeness in the finished wines, and this bottling is quite soft and immediate in its charms.  The dark berry fruit notes are soft and juicy, yet the wine never quite tips into obviousness on account of interesting backnotes of smoked meat and tobacco leaf. 89 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($20, Vinovative Imports): This wine is subtle and integrated, with dark fruit notes that are understated and yet impressively deep in flavor.  Spicy, toasty wood notes are likewise apparent but restrained and nicely balanced in relation to the fruit.  Very classy, this is a bargain for $20. 89 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Shiraz Grenache 2005 ($20, Boutique Wine Collection): Forrester says his Grenache vineyard, almost 50 years old, is the only one in Stellenbosch because the remaining ones were pulled up during apartheid by the government-run wine monopoly.  That seems very unfortunate, judging from this wine, which manages to combine fresh fruit with slightly spiced gamey elements into a harmonious package.  This lively wine, with its mild tannins, would be a good choice for barbequed chicken on the grill. 89 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2009

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage 2006 ($19, Vineyard Brands): Pinotage has plenty of defenders, but I am not among them.  My experience with this distinctively South African cross is repeatedly marred by a 'rubbery' aromatic character that afflicts not only varietal Pinotage bottlings but also many 'Cape Blends' in which Pinotage figures only as a blending spice.  Coarse, dry tannins can also be characteristic of Pinotage.  But then, just when I'm about to dismiss the grape entirely, along comes a wine like this that forces me to suspend judgment.  This shows very pure fruit recalling red berries but also suggesting a black fruit note.  Interesting aromatic undertones of wild mushrooms and smoked meat offer real complexity, and a bit of spicy oak adds interest and focus to the finish.  The fruit is tender but structured, with a layered feel. 89 Michael Franz Jan 1, 2008

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Pinotage 2008 ($19, Vineyard Brands):  Among South African winemakers, notably from Stellenbosch, the name Neil Ellis is associated with innovation and quality.  This 2008 Pinotage from Ellis was tank fermented and aged in French oak.  The color is a very deep ruby with a black core.  The nose shows traces of raspberry and low intensity spice notes, while the flavors are more forward with ripe fruit and impeccable balance.  It has good length, a stated precise 15.06% alcohol and a little heat in the long finish.  Here is a good value in the big style of Pinotage. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 10, 2010

Raats, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Franc 2006 ($30, Cape Classics): Bruwer Raats and his brother, Jasper, founded the winery only in 2001 and have already made themselves a fine reputation.  They specialize in only two wines, Chenin Blanc and this Cabernet Franc, a varietal that is not planted widely in South Africa.  Judging from this wine, maybe it should be.  This exotic wine will appeal to those who prefer herbal elements and restraint rather than a full-blown, fruit forward style.  It delivers the classic leafy--but not vegetal--character of Cabernet Franc to complement the reds fruit flavors.  Its ripeness is perfectly balanced by fine tannins and uplifting freshness. 89 Michael Apstein May 5, 2009

Rust en Vrede, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Shiraz 2008 ($28, Terlato Wines International):  This bruiser of a wine (15.5% alcohol) might be too potent for dinner, but not for enjoying as is.  The potent dark cherry and smoked meat character gets earthier with air.  With that alcohol level, most likely it's getting more interesting while you're getting less so. 89 W. Blake Gray Apr 10, 2012

Stark, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2004 ($26, Vineyard Brands): Bottled unfined and unfiltered, this gutsy red offers plenty of exuberant charm-deep fruit flavor, a healthy dollop of sweet oak, and a full but not overtly firm body.  There is plenty of spice in the impressively long finish, and the wine shows every evidence of being able to age gracefully for a good five or more years. 89 Paul Lukacs Jan 16, 2007

Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2006 ($27, Vineyard Brands): Deep and satisfying, with dark fruit flavor, echoes of cedar and savory spice, and a satisfyingly long finish, this is a well-made and very attractive Syrah.  It offers nary a hint of the off-putting rubber note that can mar many South African reds, but at the same time provides much more than just sweet fruit.  So it succeeds both because of what it does and what it does not deliver. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 2, 2010

Warwick Estate, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Three Cape Ladies” 2004 ($28, Broadbent Selections): A 'Cape Blend' comprised of 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 21% Shiraz and 13% Pinotage, this wine shows fine complexity at this stage of maturity in terms of flavor as well as aroma.  It strikes a very pleasant balance between fruitiness and restraint, with plenty of flavor that does not come across as obvious or overtly juicy.  Oak notes are present but again restrained, and this will pair up nicely with almost anything from duck to beef. 89 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2008

Edgebaston, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “The Pepper Pot” 2007 ($13, Southern Starz): This is an aptly-named blend of 64% Mourvedre, 30% Tannat, and 6% Syrah that is really only medium-bodied but quite intense in flavor, with dark berry notes and very little overt oak.  However, it shows a lot of woodsy, leafy aromas along with a roasted meat note, and the palate is distinctly marked by a spicy, peppery finish that lends real interest.  There's also a lot of bright acidity that keeps this fresh and lifted, making it a very promising partner for lighter game like venison but also pork, veal or duck. 88 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($20, Vineyard Brands): Red wines from South Africa, particularly those made with Bordeaux grape varieties, often display an herbal edge.  That quality can prove distracting, but when balanced by sufficient fruit flavor (and ripe flavor at that), it can be compelling.  So it is with this Cabernet from Neil Ellis.  The wine shows plenty of rich cassis flavor, but cuts that opulence with a streak of minty herbaceousness. 88 Paul Lukacs Jan 30, 2007

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot 2005 ($20, Vineyard Brands):  A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Merlot (42%), Cabernet Franc (6%) and Shiraz, this is surprisingly more fruit-forward than many of Ellis’s past offerings.  Nonetheless, it delivers herbal, earthy notes that give it complexity and prevent it from being a fruit bomb.  It’s an intense wine, but thankfully, not over-the-top.  Polished tannins provide balancing structure and allow you to enjoy it without further cellaring. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2009

Rustenberg, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “John X. Merriman” 2005 ($30, Cape Classics): Yet another delicious, complex red in a Bordeaux style from South Africa, this wine shows lovely aromatic complexity, with hints of cedar and spices atop core fruit noted of black plums and dark cherries.  Wood notes are quite subtle, which is a good thing, since the fruit is restrained and delicate.  Medium-plus body and good depth of flavor make this a fine choice for red meat dishes, but its delicacy and restraint make it better for roast beef than grilled steak. 88 Michael Franz Nov 25, 2008

Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($27, Vineyard Brands):  While it does not display any of the annoying rubbery scents that can detract from some other South African reds, this almost chewy, full-bodied red does display an earthy profile.  Those flavors echoing dark fruits (both dried and fresh) are supported by others reminiscent of leather, cedar, and dark, savory spice. 88 Paul Lukacs Oct 13, 2009

Kanonkop, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Kadette” 2007 ($13, Cape Classics):

This is an excellent bargain and a terrific envoy for the problematic category of 'Cape Blends' from South Africa.  I'm not wild about this category because I think the wines are often compromised by their Pinotage component, but it probably figures that an exemplary producer of Pinotage (which Kanonkop most certainly is) would excel with Cape Blends.  The blend here is 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Pinotage, 27% Marlot and 6% Cabernet Franc.  It is rich and full-bodied, but neither overripe nor overblown in style.  There's almost no overt oak in the aromas or flavors, but you won't miss those notes, as the wine is quite expressive, with an interesting weave of fruity notes and meaty, faintly earthy ones.  Few wines at this price come anywhere near this level of complexity and completeness.

Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($27):  A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) with a little Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc, it’s riper and more fruit forward than the usually more restrained Cabernet from South Africa.   Hints of non-fruit flavors peek through and add complexity.  Firm tannins and lively acidity help keep it from going over-the-top, but I can’t help wondering if some South African winemakers are catching the international high alcohol and slightly overripe virus. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2009

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc – Sauvignon Blanc "Bradgate" 2008 ($10, Vinovative Imports): This delicious blend of 60% Chenin and 40% Sauvignon really works, as the soft, honey-tinged Chenin provides some breadth and roundness on the palate, whereas the grassy, citrus character of the Sauvignon provides linear energy to the midpalate and cut to the finish.  A delightful sipping wine that will also do well with many foods. 86 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2006 ($10, Vinovative Imports): This wine is not only tasty but also tasteful, as the fruit is quite flavorful but not pushy or obvious in its ripeness.  Dark berry notes take the lead, but there's also a pleasantly earthy undertone that makes the wine quite interesting without depriving the overall character of a sense of purity.  Remarkably classy and complex for the money. 86 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Bilton Wines, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Matt Black” 2006 ($15, Southern Starz): Although this offers a bit of a rough ride, you'll find dark fruit and lots of intensity in this blend of 37% Shiraz, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 9% Petit Verdot.  There's some tart acidity that will help this pair up with food, which is in any case advisable, since the wine shows some signs of aggressive extraction in the form of astringent tannins in the finish.  However, this will most likely be tamed by more robust foods. 84 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Spice Route Winery, Swartland (South Africa) Syrah "Flagship" 2007 ($39, Vineyard Brands): Out of the impressive lineup of current release Syrah/Shiraz bottlings from Charles Back, it is easy enough to see why this one ended up with the proprietary designation of “Flagship.” It shows the most complexity and sheer dimension of the four, with lovely floral aromas getting it off to a great start. Scents of cherry liqueur and vanilla bean are also extremely appealing, and these notes slide smoothly from the aromas into the flavors of the wine, which deliver exactly what was promised to the taster’s nose. There’s also very nice underlying acidity, and the wine is admirably fresh despite its very generous aromas and flavors. With additional time in bottle, this will gain even more aromatic complexity, but in terms of texture, it is already mature and very easy to enjoy. Very, very impressive wine.
94 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2013

Boekenhoutskloof, Swartland (South Africa) "The Chocolate Block" 2017 ($40, Vineyard Brands):  Boekenhoutskloof is – in my book – among the world’s best wine companies, joining the likes of Penfolds and Guigal in making undeniably delicious wines regardless of price or volume (ranging from the very affordable “Porcupine Ridge” line up to fantastic high-end renditions of Syrah, Semillon and Cabernet Sauvignon).  This delicious blend sits roughly in the middle of the price range, and they make a lot of it, though you’d never guess that from its impressively high quality.  Very expressive in both aroma and flavor but without being “obvious” in any respect, it offers delicious fruit with both red and black tones in a medium-plus body profile.  Wood is notable but only if you bother to note it, so deft is the blending, and the tannins are abundant but very fine in grain.  Savory notes are as prominent as fruity ones, and as a consequence, you would not have an easy time telling whether this was an Old or a New World wine if you were tasting it blind.  Nor would you find it easy to guess which grape varieties comprise the blend, which I shall not disclose in the hope of goading you to try guessing on your own.   
93 Michael Franz Nov 19, 2019

Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Syrah "Flagship" 2007 ($39, Vineyard Brands): An astonishingly delicious Syrah from South Africa, Spice Route’s “Flagship” is round and mellow, with great depth and breadth on the palate.  The wine’s maturity is evident in the fruit, which comes across as ripe and full-flavored without being jammy.  A refreshing streak of acidity balances everything quite nicely, and a soft, satisfying finish lingers on the taste-buds a long time.
92 Marguerite Thomas Sep 9, 2014

Fairview, Swartland (South Africa) Shiraz “Jakkals Fontein” 2009 ($36, Vineyard Brands): This is the most boldly oaked of the five high-end Shiraz/Syrah current releases from Charles Back, and though the wood seems a bit excessive when the wine is first uncorked (dominating the nose and tightening the finish), it quickly settles down and ends up seeming quite well balanced with the intense, dark berry fruit notes. Accent notes of toast and woodsmoke end of making the wood quite welcome when the wine has aired adequately.
91 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2013

Short Street, Swartland (South Africa) Pinotage 2018 ($15, Kysela):  As you probably know, Pinotage, a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault grapes, can sometimes yield wines that might be described as “ho-hum.”  Short Street however, is a more serious and pleasing example of this unusual grape.  Deeply colored (as Pinotage tends to be), with earthy, smoky, leathery features, this is a nicely balanced wine that seems specifically designed to be enjoyed with food.  Beginning with all things beef, it also is a good companion for ham, lentils and other hearty grains, and it can be delicious with duck.   
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 13, 2021

Fairview, Swartland (South Africa) Shiraz “JakkalsFontein” 2009 ($36, Vineyard Brands): With throbbing ripe fruit plus hints of spice and that particular (and sometimes peculiar) earthiness that characterizes many South African reds, the sheer molecular density of this Shiraz will satisfy a variety of your primal needs.  Old, un-irrigated bush vines yield the small Shiraz grapes whose concentrated juice has gone into making the wine.  And in case anyone asks you what the proprietary name means, it’s a reference to the vineyards’ locale near a spring, where the haunting calls of black-backed jackals can be heard every evening
89 Marguerite Thomas Mar 26, 2013

Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Pinotage 2007 ($23, Vineyard Brands): Pinotage has taken quite a beating from critics around the world in the past few years, and my experience suggests that most of those beatings were merited by the shortcomings of the variety and the winemaking performances that failed to deal with the shortcomings.  This is a pretty damned good wine however, with an emphatically New World character to the fruit (which is strongly reminiscent of black raspberries and cherries).  There's plenty of tannin, as is often the case in bottlings of Pinotage, but it is fine-grained in this case, and the sweetness of the fruit overmatches the astringency of the tannin.  The usual laments of Pinotage being either stupidly fruity or unforgivingly hard are simply inappropriate in this case, and the rubbery character that mars some renditions is nowhere to be smelled or tasted. 88 Michael Franz Oct 7, 2008

Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Mourvedre 2006 ($19, Vineyard Brands): This is very impressive in aromatic terms, showing remarkable complexity for a relatively young wine.  Aromatic notes of tobacco leaf, leather and cedar are very nice, and work well with fruit that recalls both red and black berries.  The finish is just a little short and hard, and the flavors don't quite measure up to the aromas, but this is nevertheless a very nice effort. 87 Michael Franz Oct 7, 2008

Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Mourvedre 2005 ($20, Vineyard Brands): This South African Mourvedre conveys lovely earthy, herbal flavors in a supple package.  It's spicy and full-bodied without being overdone. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007

Spice Route Winery, Swartland (South Africa) Mourvèdre 2006 ($19, Vineyard Brands): This dense wine shows the attractively rustic side of Mourvèdre and delivers a good combination of Old World structure and New World fruit.  The tannins are present, but not intrusive, and lend needed support for the ripe black fruit flavors.  Nicely balanced, it's a good choice for hearty winter fare. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 6, 2009

Cap Maritime, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (Walker Bay, South Africa) Pinot Noir 2018 ($54, Vineyard Brands):  This is wonderfully delicate, nuanced Pinot Noir that shows exceptional winemaking skill as well as this cool climate region’s ability to conjure real magic from the world’s most famously finicky grape variety.  The project stems from Boekenhoutskloof, my Wine Producer of the Year for 2019, and at this early juncture, the fruit is being purchased while the young estate vines are gaining maturity.  One can only imagine how good the Pinot and Chardonnay bottled under the Cap Maritime brand may become once this is an entirely “in-house” operation, but it would be a big mistake to wait in the interim, as the current releases of both varieties are marvelous.  This Pinot shows expressive aromas and generous flavors but only modest weight, which is the most fundamental – if elusive – characteristic of outstanding renditions of the variety.  Notes that are both fruity (red and black cherry) and savory (wild mushroom) are among those expressive aromas and generous flavors, along with a subtle spiciness and other nuances that reveal themselves with airing.  Although well worth a search, the wine won’t be easy to find, as only small quantities are being sold by importer Vineyard Brands in Pennsylvania, Texas and California.  So, contact your friends in those states.  This will definitely become even more complex if you can keep your hands off of it for another 4 to 5 years, but the only way you’ll muster that patience is if you don’t taste how good the wine is now.     
94 Michael Franz Dec 29, 2020

Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Walker Bay (South Africa) Pinot Noir 2004 ($35, Vineyard Brands): This is a very fine, thoroughly convincing Pinot that shows impressive dimension and class. The aromas and flavors are complex but focused, with lovely notes of red cherries, spice, smoke and subtle vanilla. With a persuasively Burgundian combination of light color and weight but penetrating aromas and flavors, this is very near the head of the global que in New World attempts to achieve the delicate, intricate miracle of great Pinot. Vintners in the Willamette Valley and Central Otago should take note -- along with those in Vosne-Romanee. 92 Michael Franz Mar 21, 2006

Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Walker Bay (South Africa) Pinot Noir 2008 ($39, Vineyard Brands):  Practically abutting the Atlantic Ocean and feeling its cooling effect, Walker Bay is the capital of Pinot Noir in South Africa.  And there’s no doubt that Hamilton Russell Vineyards is one of the area’s leading producers (they also make stunningly good Chardonnay).  The style of their Pinot Noir lies somewhere between California and Burgundy with a lovely combination of earthy notes intertwined with dried and fresh red fruit nuances.  The subtle influence of seductive toasty oak enhances without dominating.  Walker Bay in general, and Hamilton Russell in particular, are names to remember for Pinot Noir--and Chardonnay. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2011

Raoul’s, Walker Bay (South Africa) “Old Basket Press” 2007 ($15, Wine@34South): A blend of roughly 75% Bordeaux  varieties (primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) and almost 25% Syrah, this is a delicious red wine that offers deep, plum and dark berry fruit flavors, firm but unobtrusive tannins, and a delightfully full, long finish.  It does not display any of the annoying rubbery or 'band-aid' type aromas that mar many South African red wines. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 10, 2009

Southern Right, Walker Bay (South Africa) Pinotage 2008 ($27, Vineyard Brands):  French-oak aged for 11 months, this complex Pinotage is full and ripe with a medium ruby color, forward prune and dark fruit aromas, and flavors that are seasoned with a little spice.  There’s also a subtle minerality that adds to the complexity of this wine.  It finishes with brisk acidity and precisely 13.27% alcohol.  Ironically, Southern Right features the freedom of whales on the front label of this Pinotage, yet packages the wine in an environmentally unfriendly 57 ounce bottle (a standard full bottle is 45 ounces). 89 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 10, 2010

Southern Right, Walker Bay (South Africa) Pinotage 2008 ($27, Vineyard Brands):  Why do so many South African reds have an aromatic echo of rubber or band-aids?  I’m not sure, but I know that this character proves quite common in South African wines.  This Pinotage definitely displays it.  It also, however, offers plenty of earth-tinged fruit, with excellent balance and depth.  The wine ends up being both complex and compelling, if that rubbery note is not too much of a distraction. 87 Paul Lukacs Sep 21, 2010

Eventide Cellar, Wellington (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($16, Southern Starz): This is a terrific value in Cabernet that has had the angular edge of the grape variety taken off by age--which has also lent some complexity.  The wine shows a very pronounced mineral edge, with an appealing graphite (i.e., lead pencil) streak that shows up in some very famous big-ticket Cabs.  Delivering lots of extract and punch on a relatively modest, medium-bodied frame, this is impressive and very tasty. 89 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Vilafonte, Western Cape (South Africa) “Seriously Old Dirt” 2019 ($38, Broadbent Selections):  Vilafonté is the name of a South African winery created by California wine superstars, winemaker Zelma Long, and viticulturist Dr. Phil Freese, along with Managing Director of Warwick Wine Estate, Michael Ratcliff, of Stellenbosch, South Africa.  The name comes from the Vilafontes soil where the vineyard was planted.  It was half a million years or older, as determined from the presence of old arrowheads found near the soil surface.  Freese noted that since the surface was half a million years old, the soil below indeed must be “seriously old dirt.”  Cabernet Sauvignon is 86% 0f the blend with portions of Malbec (which Zelma is very fond of) Merlot and Cabernet Franc completing it.  Winemaker, Chris de Vries fermented the fruit in stainless steel tanks and the wine spent eighteen months in older French barriques.  The result is a seamless mélange of spicy black cherry, blackberry and cassis flavors.  It is full in the mouth, yet smooth and balanced, finishing with sturdy, but supple tannins, perfect for a juicy steak.            
95 Rebecca Murphy Apr 18, 2023

Allée Bleue, Western Cape (South Africa) “L’Amour Toujours” 2005 ($30, Confluence Wine Importers): Ripe but structured, this impressive wine shows very interesting interplay between vibrant fruit notes and firm, spicy oak.  The concentration in this unspecified blend is quite serious, and the tannins and wood keep it rather restrained for a little while when it is first opened.  However, it quickly blossoms to show quite expressive aromatic notes as well as deep flavors of dark berries and black cherries.  The long, symmetrical finish caps off a top-flight performance. 90 Michael Franz Sep 16, 2008

Mulderbosch, Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz 2004 ($35, Cape Classics): Mulderbosch is perhaps best known in North America for a consistently superb Sauvignon Blanc, but the 2004 Shiraz is an excellent wine, with impressive complexity.  Both the aromas and flavors show lovely fruit (recalling dark berries above all) intertwined with subtly earthy notes recalling wild mushrooms, roasted meat and tobacco leaf.  Medium-plus body makes for a rich and satisfying feel on the palate, yet the wine never turns so rich or ripe as to make a likeness to Côte Rôtie out of the question.  Delicious! 90 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2008

Neil Ellis, Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz "Sincerely" 2005 ($13, Vineyard Brands): A leaner style of Shiraz than those typically produced in California or Australia, Ellis's "Sincerely" still has plenty of ripeness and an appealing spicy complexity to complement its meaty elements. You can't beat it at the price! 90 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006

The Chocolate Block, Western Cape (South Africa) 2007 ($59, Vineyard Brands): Normally I don't care for wines with these kinds of fanciful names, but given the unpronounceable name of the producer--Boekenhoutskloof--the rationale is clear and above reproach.  It's kind of a Rhône blend--Syrah (55%), Grenache (20%), Cinsault (5%) and Viognier (4%)--but then there's Cabernet Sauvignon to round it out.  In this big, bold wine, the unconventional blend actually works.  Perhaps it's suggestion from the name, but there are hints of chocolate and cocoa--maybe the Cabernet speaking--as well as lively peppery nuances, especially in the finish.  This robust wine is not for the faint of heart, but a surprising degree of elegance gives it more class than is usually apparent with this style of wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Allée Bleue, Western Cape (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2005 ($20, Confluence Wine Importers): Juicy and delicious, this wine shows very ripe, soft, sweet fruit that toes the limit of desirable ripeness without stepping onto the wrong side.  Notes of black cherries are accented with hints of chocolate and dried herbs.  The tannins are sufficient to lend structure, but there is no astringency, as the grain of the tannins is very fine, and their character is quite ripe.  Although this wine leans toward the New World end of the spectrum for South African reds, it is never chunky or obvious, and offers quite strong value. 89 Michael Franz Apr 8, 2008

Boekenhoutskloof, Western Cape (South Africa) “The Chocolate Block” 2009 ($32, Vineyard Brands):  An intense, muscular wine, this blend of primarily Syrah and Grenache tastes deep and dark, with, yes, a dark chocolate note in its long, forceful finish.  Thankfully, there is no hint of rubbery band-aid of the sort that mars so many South African reds, just powerful, concentrated fruit flavors, enhanced by echoes of tar and grilled meat.  The wine should soften with a few years of cellaring, in which case it will merit a 90+ score, 89 Paul Lukacs Sep 6, 2011

Boekenhoutskloof, Western Cape (South Africa) “The Chocolate Block” 2008 ($39):  A Rhône-style blend, with a dollop of Cabernet as well, this is an exciting, full-bodied red with deep, dark flavors--including, yes, hints or echoes of chocolate.  The only thing keeping it from meriting a 90+ rating is a slight vegetal, rubbery note in the finish. 89 Paul Lukacs May 25, 2010

Guardian Peak, Western Cape (South Africa) "Frontier" 2004 ($15, Vineyard Brands): Offering fine value, this somewhat rustic red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%), Syrah (41%), and Merlot (12%).  Although that sounds like a recipe for an internationally-styled, fruit-forward wine, "Frontier" actually displays notable restraint, with impressive secondary characteristics that echo leather, tar and tobacco.  Not many reds deliver this sort of compelling complexity for only $15. 89 Paul Lukacs Jan 16, 2007

Indaba, Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz 2008 ($10, Cape Classics):  The current crop of wines in the Indaba line may be the best that I’ve ever tasted.  The 2009 Chardonnay is substantial but very pure and fresh, and this Shiraz shows an alluring smokiness that makes it one of the most appealing renderings of this grape in this price range that is available from anywhere in the world.  The black and red fruit notes recall fresh wild berries and dark cherries.  Medium-bodied, it is capable of standing up to fairly robust foods without dominating more delicate ones. 89 Michael Franz Apr 27, 2010

The Wolf Trap, Western Cape (South Africa) 2005 ($12, Vineyard Brands): A lovely blend of Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Viognier, The Wolf Trap is a well-balanced wine delivering layers of flavors, earth, smoke, black fruit and a little spice. Once you notice the producer's name, Boekenhoutskloof, you understand why they emphasize the brand name on the label. They have resisted the temptation to make a big, blockbuster style of Syrah and instead have produced one with finesse and complexity. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

The Wolftrap, Western Cape (South Africa) Red 2013 ($12, Vineyard Brands): On the first swirl-sniff-sip go around this medium bodied red wine emitted a hint of that vaguely musty-gassy-rubbery characteristic that American and British wine drinkers often claim to detect in South African reds (South Africans themselves don’t seem to taste it--cellar palate perhaps?).  Having read somewhere that this effect might be caused by harmless sulfur volatile compounds known as mercaptens, I dropped a penny into the glass, which is said to be one way to correct the issue.  A few moments later I re-tasted, and to my surprise the problem was solved, or almost solved, since what remained in the glass was a nicely fruity, somewhat tangy and very pleasant wine, with hints of cinnamon and other spice and only the slightest tinge of off-flavor.  (If you want to try this experiment yourself, be sure to use a penny minted before 1982, the year when zinc largely replaced copper in US pennies).  This copper “cure” may be a complete coincidence, and mercaptens may not be the source of the problem at all; it could be another sulfur-related thing or something else altogether.  But no harm in trying--it’s a simple solution.
89 Marguerite Thomas Apr 1, 2014

Allée Bleue, Western Cape (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot 2005 ($20, Confluence Wine Importers): By contrast to this producer's 'L'Amour Toujours' bottling, this wine is immediately open and expressive, with soft structure and a very pleasing roundness.  Whereas many South African reds show a restrained fruit profile more reminiscent of Old World than New World styles, this fresh, forward bottling leans decidedly toward the New.  Black cherry and plum notes are vivid but not vapid, as there's no grapey obviousness to the wine.  Oak is quite restrained, which permits the freshness of the fruit to shine. 88 Michael Franz Sep 16, 2008

Neil Ellis Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz “Sincerely” 2007 ($14, Vineyard Brands): Although this Shiraz emphasizes the plummy flavors of the grape, subtle notes of black pepper come through in the background adding welcome complexity.  Adequate acidity in this ripe and forward wine keeps it from being jammy. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 24, 2009

The Left Bank, Western Cape (South Africa) 2007 ($14, Vineyard Brands): An exuberant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%), Shiraz (33%), and Merlot (10%), this youthful red tastes just that--young and lively.  Its appeal comes from freshness rather than complexity, making it a fine choice for casual entertaining.  Pizza anyone? 88 Paul Lukacs Dec 2, 2008

Fairview Wine Estate, Western Cape (South Africa) "Goats do Roam Red" 2005 ($12, Vineyard Brands): In addition to producing wines, the Fairview Estate, located in South Africa's Paarl wine district, does in fact raise goats and produce cheese (hence the roaming goats), but as the double entendre in its name suggests, this is a Rhône style red wine.  Made from 9 different grape varieties including Syrah and Pinotage, it carries a whiff of cardamom and other savory spices, and it also has a distinct kick of funkiness that is often associated with Pinotage. If you're looking for a very reasonably priced pleasant quaffing wine with plenty of personality, go for the Goats. 87 Marguerite Thomas Jan 9, 2007

Juno Wine Co., Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz “Cape Maidens” 2008 ($10, Confluence Wine Importers): This is the showiest of Juno's 'Cape Maidens' line of wines, which feature label art by well known South African artist Tertia du Toit.  In the case of this wine, her rendering of a voluptuous maiden is matched by a pretty voluptuous wine, as this shows fleshy, ripe berry fruit.  There's also a note of fresh meat and a spicy undertone as well, along with enough tannin to support the fruit and provide grip and definition in the finish. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 1, 2008

Neil Ellis Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) “The Left Bank” 2007 ($15, Vineyard Brands): The name, The Left Bank, presumably alludes to Bordeaux, but the blend there never includes Shiraz, which comprises a third of this wine--the remainder being Cabernet Sauvignon (57%) and Merlot.  (Chateau Palmer started producing a wine in 2004--called Historical XIX Century--that includes Shiraz in the blend, but can not be labeled Bordeaux, only Vin de Table).  Ellis' Left Bank is packed with fresh fruit, but does not come across as grapey and simple because there's a bit of spice and mild supporting tannins.  Forward and easy to drink, the juicy black fruit flavors do not, thankfully, become jammy. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 21, 2008

Indaba, Western Cape (South Africa) Syrah 2007 ($10, Cape Classics): A delightfully soft, juicy drink at an extremely reasonable price, this is an impressive indication of how well South Africa can compete on lower price tiers (as well as upper ones) in the worldwide Shiraz sweepstakes.  Aromas and flavors of both red and black berries are fresh and fruity yet not obvious or overtly sweet.  There's virtually no discernable oak influence, and this would be a good choice for moderately robust dishes from poultry up to grilled pork or veal.
86 Michael Franz Nov 25, 2008

Juno Wine Co., Western Cape (South Africa) Cabernet-Shiraz-Merlot “Cape Maidens” 2007 ($10, Confluence Wine Importers): I didn't care for the Sauvignon Blanc in Juno's 'Cape Maidens' line, but all the other wines are quite good for the money and the two reds are very impressive when their price point is taken in to consideration.  This is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% each of Shiraz and Merlot.  About a quarter of the barrels were new, with the rest used for their second or third fill, so there's a little oak showing around the margins of this wine, but not so much as to obscure the fruit.  Dark berry and plum notes are expressive but not obvious in their ripeness, and there's an interesting meaty character to the wine that gives it a lot of class for ten bucks. 86 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

The Goat Father, Western Cape (South Africa) 2006 ($13, Vineyard Brands): This hodge-podge blend of Italian and French varieties (Barbera, Mourvèdre, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primitivo and Nebbiolo) produces what I like to call a 'pizza wine;' a simple, but lively, everyday kind of beverage.  This one delivers fresh red fruit flavors and mild tannins.  You can have a glass or two, close the bottle and pour it again the following night. 86 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2008

Wolf Trap, Western Cape (South Africa) Syrah, Mourvedre, Viognier 2007 ($10): Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa's star producers, acts as a négociant--they buy young wine from others and then blend and age it--for this bargain-priced delight.  Aromatic from Viognier, it conveys fresh fruit, a hint of bacon fat and gamey flavors--Syrah and Mourvédre speaking--that give it remarkable complexity for the price. 86 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2008

Stormhoek, Western Cape (South Africa) Pinotage 2005 ($10, Palm Bay): I do my best to remain open-minded (and 'palated') at all times, but I confess that I approach most Beaujolais, Zinfandel and Pinotage with apprehension, and especially those bottlings checking in at $12 or less. However, this $10 entrant came up a winner in my book, showing lots of intensely flavorful black fruit and just a bit of the distinctive funky, rubbery note that marks many Pinotages. Great for a bowl of chili or other hearty fare, this offers a big wallop of flavor for a relatively small charge. 84 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2006

The Wolftrap, Western Cape (South Africa) Syrah/Mourvedre/Viognier 2006 ($11, Vineyard Brands): A bit of aromatic mustiness (probably a reductive note for you geeks our there) marred my initial impression of this wine, but blew off after half an hour of airing.  It then showed a nice combination of primary fruit notes with a pleasantly earthy, mushroomy undertone.  Pair with duck or lamb. 83 Michael Franz Jan 1, 2008

Stellar Organics, Western Cape WO (South Africa) Pinotage 2014 ($10, Triton Collection): Though grilling season has ended in South Africa, it's just getting underway here in the northern hemisphere, and the hunt for bargain braai partners is in full swing.  Here's a find that fits the bill with vibrant cherry fruit, racy acidity and notes of mocha that are well integrated through the medium long finish.  Give it a good decant before serving to blow off a little ironite funkiness and enjoy.  It's organic, Fair Trade Certified, and Vegan friendly with no added sulfites.  Drink up!
88 Rich Cook Jun 30, 2015

Rosé:

Boschendal, Coastal Region (South Africa) "The Rose Garden" Rosé 2015 ($16): This lovely wine hits just the right balance between expressiveness and restraint to come across as a world-class rosé that any Mediterranean producer would be entirely proud to have produced.  With more aroma than most rosé wines show, it is appealing from the first whiff, and the flavors come across as fruity without seeming sweet.  Notes of wild strawberry and blood orange are very appealing, and the wine retains vibrancy and freshness that equals that of almost any 2015 rendition made later in the year from the northern hemisphere.  The finish is symmetrical and clean but still full of flavor.   Platinum Award winner at the 2016 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.
94 Michael Franz Jun 7, 2016

Boschendal, Coastal Region (South Africa) “The Rose Garden” 2015 ($16, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): This bottling takes its name from Boschendal's famed rose garden, one of the oldest and most varied on the cape.  A Merlot-dominant blend that includes some Pinotage among other red grapes, it shows lots of red berry character, with mild spice and citrus notes.  A touch of lime zest comes forward in the finish, serving to cleanse your palate while leaving the berry impression lingering.  A great start to my tasting of the 2015 vintage!
90 Rich Cook Nov 17, 2015

Boschendal, Coastal Region (Western Cape, South Africa) “The Rose Garden” Rosé 2021 ($15, Cape Classics):  Most wine regions offer wonderful scenery, but the Cape Winelands of South Africa is in another league with majestic mountains wearing mounds of white clouds surrounding lush green valleys.  The folks at the Boschendal wine estate have been making wines for over 300 years.  This Rosé is named for their rose garden containing rose plantings from England’s Kew Gardens.  It is a luscious blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Shiraz, 25% Pinotage, featuring bright and lively strawberry, Meyer lemon fruit with mineral saline notes.  Pale pink and bone dry, it is mouthwatering and ready for grilled shrimp or a summer pasta salad.        
90 Rebecca Murphy Jul 5, 2022

Goats do Roam, Coastal Region (South Africa) Rosé 2009 ($10, Vineyard Brands):  A blend of Syrah, Mourvédre, Gamay and Grenache, this rosé tastes fresh and lively, though fairly simple, as bright red berry flavors constitute its appeal.  The wine is undeniably enjoyable, and at $10 is more than fairly priced, but it does lack the secondary nuance that makes the best rosés so seductive and exciting. 87 Paul Lukacs Aug 3, 2010

Goats do Roam Company, Coastal Region (South Africa) Rosé 2008 ($10, Vineyard Brands): Puns are by nature short-lived in amusement value, and the Goats do Roam wines have now been around for a decade.  Thus, the wines now need to stand on their own, and indeed they do stand on their own four feet.  This rosé was made from Shiraz, Pinotage Grenache and Cinsault grapes (with a few others thrown in for good measure), and it is very good for ten bucks.  The aromas are open and fruity, but the wine finishes without any sugary aftertaste to the subtle fruit flavors. 85 Michael Franz Oct 7, 2008

A.A. Badenhorst, Swartland (South Africa) "Secateurs" Rosé 2016 ($15, Broadbent Selections): The best way to enjoy the vivid and fresh style of a fine rosé in the autumn and winter here in North America is to seek out wines from the southern hemisphere.  The 2016 Badenhorst Secateurs Rosé is a lovely and fresh example of Swartland style.  A vibrant pink in color, it has a bouquet of ripe cherries and strawberries followed by hints of wildflowers, sun-baked herbs and white pepper.  The flavors are pure and juicy, with strawberry and red cherry fruit enhanced by the classic dried herb and spice character of its component grapes.  Bring a touch of springtime to brighten up the cold and dark winter nights -- try this delicious rosé.  Made from  Cinsault (60%) and Shiraz (40%).
90 Wayne Belding Dec 6, 2016

DeMorgenzon, Western Cape (South Africa) Rosé 2017 ($13, Cape Classics):  I haven’t had opportunity to taste this wine since I tasted the 2011 on property in 2012, and once again it’s a fine bottling, though the US market label doesn’t match the class of the original -- thanks TTB.  This vintage shows tart strawberry, bay leaf and white pepper aromas and flavors, delivered on a palate that’s crisp and dry.  The finish gathers all the elements well, with a slight herbal push that makes it a fine green salad accompaniment. 
90 Rich Cook Jul 17, 2018

Juno Wine Co., Western Cape (South Africa) “Cape Maidens” Rosé 2008 ($10, Confluence Wine Importers): I enjoy rosé wines all year 'round--not just in spring and summer, and if you are like-minded, you should start looking for fresh renditions made earlier in this calendar year in the southern hemisphere.  Chile and Argentina send few rosés our way, and Australia's are pretty heavy in most cases, but South Africa is making some quite nice ones at inviting prices.  That's certainly true in this case, and you'll find this wine (made from equal portions of Pinotage and Shiraz) to be overtly fruity without being obvious or sweet.  The flavors recall red cherries that are ripe but still pleasingly tart, and though the wine is rather simple, it is very tasty and full of fun. 85 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Sparkling:

Boschendal, Coastal Region (South Africa) Brut Rosé NV ($22, Cape Classics):  Now that I’ve retired from my “day job” to focus fully on wine, it’s finally safe to recommend a wine that goes perfectly with breakfast.  Seriously, it does occasionally happen that I’m able to have a leisurely brunch of omelets, etc. and pair it with a little tipple.  This is the perfect foil for an omelet with cheese and bruschetta and a side of sausage.  Fresh, with crisp acidity and a bright kiss of strawberry lemon just keeps the morning flavors flowing.  If you’re in a similar station, give it a whirl!  From a winery that’s been in the business for a little while -- since 1685.  
90 Rich Cook Jul 10, 2018

MAN Family Wines, Coastal Region (South Africa) Brut Méthode Cap Classique NV ($25, Vineyard Brands): This sparkler is bone dry, very refreshing, and perfect for aperitif sipping on a warm evening.  Its classic green apple and citrus flavors lead into a biscuit-like finish, with nothing remotely cloying or excessive.  It’s surprisingly delicious, but again, very, very dry.  Be sure that you like that style before buying it.
90 Paul Lukacs Jul 7, 2015

MAN Family Wines, Coastal Region (South Africa) Méthode Cap Classique, Brut, Sparkling Wine NV ($25, Vineyard Brands):  This very dry sparkling wine from South Africa can be served as a refreshing aperitif or as an accompaniment to special holiday dishes.  Its crispness makes it an enviable partner for oysters or other briny seafood, and its lively green apple and citrus flavors make it a celebratory libation to accompany a festive meal. 
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 27, 2018

Graham Beck, Robertson (South Africa) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012 ($20):  Many Americans wine lovers have never even tried a bottle of bubbly from South Africa, and this might well be the bottle to show such people, as it is phenomenally good by any standard, and an absolute steal relative to its selling price.  The base Chardonnay fruit is sourced entirely from the estate, including only the first round of delicately pressed juice.  It shows very delicate flavors and excellent freshness thanks to lemony acidity, yet there’s nothing austere or screechy about the finish, despite a very modest dosage of just 5.2 grams of sugar.  Fresh and fine. 92 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2017

Simonsig, Western Cape (South Africa) Brut Rosé “Kaapse Vonkel” 2019 ($20, Quintessential Wines):  This is quite elegant for a Brut Rosé in this price category, with subtle strawberry and lemon creme, a fine mousse, a creamy texture and crisp finish that keeps a floral note in play and lets a yeasty note surface.  This delicious sparkler from a Cap Classique pioneer is absolutely worth seeking out.  Contains 75% Pinot Noir, 23% Pinotage and 2% Pinot Meunier.     
93 Rich Cook Dec 28, 2021

Graham Beck, Western Cape (South Africa) Brut Rosé 2013 ($35):  Made from Pinot Noir (80%) and Chardonnay (20%), this superb sparkling wine is bound to please any true lover of excellent sparkling wine.  Graceful and well structured, with hints of red fruits and seashell minerality, serve it as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to oysters and other delicate seafood.  From personal experience I can tell you it also makes a delightful nightcap. 
92 Marguerite Thomas Jul 30, 2019

Graham Beck, Western Cape (South Africa) Brut Zero 2012 ($22):  It is quite difficult to make no-dosage sparkling wine that doesn’t come off as hard or austere, often requiring a long period of bottle aging on the yeast lees from the second fermentation prior to disgorging.  That period was a full five years in this case, and, well… it worked beautifully.  Blended from 80 percent Chardonnay and 20 percent Pinot Noir, this shows the slightest pinkish hue, which is actually a bit misleading if one thinks of pink in gendered terms.  The wine is steely in character, with lots of coiled energy and great linear drive.  It is much more nuanced than overt, with interesting little details that emerge as the wine warms and settles in the glass.  I could only taste this over the course of about 5 minutes, and would much preferred to have afforded it a full hour.  In light of the difficulty of making a wine like this, and the inventory carrying costs involved, this is an incredible value. 92 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2017

Simonsig, Western Cape (South Africa) Brut “Kaapse Vonkel” 2020 ($20, Quintessential Wines):  A very dry sparkler that spent extra time on the yeast prior to disgorgement, lending a nice toasty character to the mix of apple, pear and lemon.  The racy acidity and toasty finish make this a great foil for baked appetizers.  Contains 51% Chardonnay, 47% Pinot Noir and 2% Pinot Meunier.       
92 Rich Cook Dec 13, 2022

Simonsig, Western Cape (South Africa) “Kaapse Vonkel”, Brut Rosé, Methode Cap Classique 2017 ($20, Quintessential Wines):  A Pinot triple threat!  Composed of Pinot Noir, Pinotage and Pinot Meunier, this delightfully dry bubbly features crisp strawberry, lemon and tart cherry aromas and flavors, delivered over scouring acidity and finishing with a light red fruit impression.  A fine aperitif style in a different vibe than you’ll find anywhere else -- in a good way, and at a good price.  
92 Rich Cook Dec 18, 2018

Graham Beck, Western Cape (South Africa) Brut NV ($20, Beck Family Estates):  This is one of the consistently solid values in the wine world, so when I find it, I usually snap up a bottle or two.  It’s made in a zesty style, with forward tart citrus fruit and green apple balanced with stony minerality.  As a fan of lime, I really appreciate the fresh lime character push in the finish.  If you’ve been wanting to try something from South Africa, this is a fine starter.  Contains 51% Chardonnay and 49% Pinot Noir.        
91 Rich Cook Dec 13, 2022

Graham Beck, Western Cape (South Africa) Brut Rosé NV ($19, Beck Family Estates):  Graham Beck's sparkling Rosé is a consistent value leader in its category, one that hits a fine balance between red fruit, citrus and stony minerality and keeps it all fresh from beginning to end.  This is a sparkler that can stand alone as a tasty soloist, yet also a wine that can run the table, and it achieves both feats at a great price while being relatively easy to locate here in the States.  Cheers!  
91 Rich Cook Aug 4, 2020

Simonsig, Western Cape (South Africa) Brut “Kaapse Vonkel” 2019 ($20, Quintessential Wines):  Cape Sparkle!  This is the originator – the first Methode Cap Classique wine that’s been with us since 1971.  It continues to deliver the goods, with the 2019 showing a bold mousse and crisp clean flavors of brioche, lemon, strawberry and stony minerality.  It’s refreshing for both the palate and the wallet.  Here’s to the next 50 years!  Contains 50% Chardonnay, 49% Pinot Noir and 1% Pinot Meunier.       
91 Rich Cook Dec 28, 2021

Simonsig, Western Cape (South Africa) "Kaapse Vonkel" Brut 2018 ($20, Quintessential Wines):   Kaapse Vonkel translates literally as “Cape sparkle” and Simonsig was the first producer of MCC (Methode Cap Classique, or Champagne method) sparkling wine in South Africa back in 1971.  This vintage shows the tart side of bubbly, with a delightful brioche and citrus aromatic profile followed up by green apple, lemon and white peach flavors.  It offers a cleansing aperitif style of sparkling wine that would also play well with oysters.    
90 Rich Cook Aug 11, 2020

Simonsig Wine Estate, Western Cape (South Africa) “Kaapse Vonkel” Brut Rosé 2015 ($25, Quintessential):  Winemakers can have difficulty taming Pinotage, a grape created by a genetic crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, when transforming it into red wine.  Simonsig has done a fabulous job using the grape in this rosé sparkling wine.  A blend Pinot Noir (63%), Pinotage (35%) and Pinot Meunier, this bubbly delivers subtle red fruit notes with exotic accents -- which seem attributable to Pinotage’s contributions.  Its light pink color makes it easy on the eyes and its stiff spine keeps it all in balance.  It's a good choice for a holiday sparkler and sturdy enough to match a first course of smoked salmon.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2017

Graham Beck, Western Cape (South Africa) Brut Rosé 2007 ($18, Graham Beck Wines LLC): A genteel pink sparkler, this light-bodied wine is lithe and airy, so best suited for aperitif sipping.  If offers a soft, supple texture, flavors that echo fresh red berries, and unlike many examples of this genre, finishes genuinely dry. 88 Paul Lukacs May 19, 2009

Graham Beck, Western Cape (South Africa) NV ($19):  This non-vintage bubbly from South Africa comes in at an attractive price, and you will love what’s in the bottle, too.  The cuvee relies heavily on Pinot Noir, hence the strong note of raspberry and cherry.  A jolt (34 percent) of Chardonnay brings structure and notes of citrus.  On the palate this sparkling is supple and inviting, shows exceptional fruit purity and delivers great persistence through the finish.    
88 Robert Whitley Aug 11, 2020

Simonsig, Western Cape (South Africa) “Kaapse Vonkel”, Brut Rosé, Methode Cap Classique 2017 ($20, Quintessential Wines):  From one of South Africa’s top producers of table wines, the Simonsig Brut Rosé has a small dose of Pinotage in the cuvee, though the dominant grape is Pinot Noir.  Clean and refreshing, with a frothy mousse, bright acidity and a creamy mid-palate, this sparking shows notes of strawberry and cherry.  
88 Robert Whitley Dec 4, 2018

White:

Beaumont, Bot River (Walker Bay, South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Hope Marguerite” 2016 ($35, Broadbent): I wouldn’t blame you a bit for shying away from buying a bottle of South African Chenin for $35, and in fact I’d thank you for doing that, as more would be left for me.  But selfishness is unbecoming, so let me tell you that this is not to be missed if you can find a bottle, as it combines thrillingly sharp green apple acidity combined with broader, more succulent melon notes and very appealing oak spice.  It is rather taut and tense right now, and really built to develop over the course of another three or four years, so you’d be well advised to buy several bottles and taste them at multiple points along this excellent wine’s developmental path.
94 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Beaumont, Bot River (Walker Bay, South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2017 ($21, Broadbent): This wine is an object lesson in the very high potential of un-oaked Chenin from South Africa.  It shows light floral aromas and notable breadth and substance on the palate, with fruit recalling ripe melons and even a faint tropical streak.  Yet those descriptors suggest a much less refreshing wine than one actually gets, as this is energized by terrifically zingy citrus acidity.  Only a few USA retailers have this 2017 in stock already, but it is indeed available.  But do not just look for this vintage, as older renditions may prove even more interesting, as South African Chenins can age marvelously, even without any oak ageing.
92 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Beaumont Family Wines, Bot River (Walker Bay, South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2019 ($19, Broadbent Selections):  South African Chenin Blancs are slowly getting the recognition they deserve.  South Africa has more Chenin vineyards than any other country, including France.  The best sites offer high quality fruit that skilled winemakers craft into delicious white wines.  The 2019 Beaumont Family Chenin Blanc is a perfect example.  The Bot River Ward lies southeast of Capetown, a few miles inland from the ocean.  The cooling maritime breezes allow slow ripening and strong flavor development in the Chenin grapes.  The Beaumont Chenin Blanc has an exotic nose of fresh flowers, green apple, pear, pineapple, guava and citrus.  The enticing aromas are supported by an equally intriguing palate.  The succulent, pure tropical fruit flavors are interwoven with green apple, pear, citrus and honey tones.  With its enchanting style and rich texture, the Beaumont Chenin Blanc is a gulpable treat that will provide delicious drinking for another two years and beyond.   
92 Wayne Belding Apr 14, 2020

Beaumont Family Wines, Bot River (Walker Bay, South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2022 ($20, Broadbent Selections):  South African Chenin Blancs rank among the world’s best white wine values.  The best sites offer high quality fruit that can be crafted into delicious wines.  The 2022 Beaumont Family Chenin Blanc is a perfect example.  The Bot River Ward lies southeast of Cape Town, in a relatively remote area a few miles inland from the ocean.  The cooling maritime breezes allow slow ripening and strong flavor development in the Chenin grapes.  In 2022 the cool growing season allowed for full aromatic and flavor development.  The Beaumont Chenin Blanc has an exotic nose of flowers, green apple, pear, pineapple and citrus.  On the palate, the succulent, pure tropical fruit flavors are interwoven with green apple, pear and citrus tones.  It is a delicious example of fresh and forward South African Chenin.        
92 Wayne Belding Apr 4, 2023

Beaumont Family Wines, Bot River (Walker Bay, South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2021 ($19, Broadbent Selections):  South Africa has more Chenin vineyards than any other country, including France.  The best sites offer high quality fruit that skilled winemakers craft into delicious white wines.  The 2021 Beaumont Family Chenin Blanc is a perfect example.  The Bot River Ward lies southeast of Capetown, in a relatively remote area a few miles inland from the ocean.  The cooling maritime breezes allow slow ripening and strong flavor development in the Chenin grapes.  The Beaumont Chenin Blanc has an exotic nose of flowers, green apple, pear, pineapple and citrus.  On the palate, the succulent, pure tropical fruit flavors are interwoven with green apple, pear and citrus tones.  With its enchanting style and rich texture, the Beaumont Chenin Blanc is a delicious treat for near term drinking.        
91 Wayne Belding Dec 28, 2021

M - A - N Family Wines, Cape Coast (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Free-Run Steen” 2022 ($11, Vineyard Brands):  This wine has been quite good for a long while, and in terms of value, downright excellent for years on end—more than a decade.  But during the past four or five vintages, the quality seems to have risen notably while the price has held constant, so we’re really onto something with this in a period of inflation.  It is nationally distributed by Vineyard Brands, so almost everyone has a fighting chance to locate it without needing to ship it, and though you might need to pay a few bucks more if you live in a relatively less competitive market, $12 or $13 or $14 is still a bargain for a wine that out-performs ones costing more than $20.  I bought a couple of bottles from an ultra-expensive grocery store in Tacoma, Washington for $9, which is a phenomenally good deal.  It offers inviting scents of freshly sliced ripe peaches and wild honey are quite alluring, and the flavors more than deliver on the wine’s aromatic promise.  Juicy and rich, but still vibrant, the palate impressions offer orchard fruit notes of ripe nectarines and apricots, with bright acidity energizing the flavors and focusing the wine’s finish.  This is really impressive from 2022, and amazingly so for the asking price.         
91 Michael Franz Aug 15, 2023

Porcupine Ridge, Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($11, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof, a consistently good South African producer, is a reliable source of inexpensive wines.  This tightly-wound Sauvignon Blanc has a distinctly grassy nose and more flavor in the mid-palate than most comparably priced wines made from this grape.  The acid bite in the finish makes it refreshing. 86 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2008

Cape Point Vineyards, Cape Point (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Stonehaven” 2007 ($23, Boutique Wine Collection): This is the only winery located in the Cape Point, a district south of Cape Town on a peninsula that separates the Atlantic Ocean from False Bay. But after sampling this wine, I expect to see more.  The extraordinary maritime influence of the peninsula probably contributes to the striking quality of this wine.  Engaging mineral-like nuances complement the inherent pungency of Sauvignon Blanc.  And most strikingly, those immediate-impact flavors spread across the palate and continue into a lengthy finish. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2009

Cape Point Vineyards, Cape Point, South Africa (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($20, Broadbent Selections): Less strident and green than many Sauvignon Blancs, Cape Point is nonetheless notably clean and fresh.  Although the wine sees no oak, it has an appealingly robust texture, round and silky, and it finishes on a bright, juicy note.
90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 2, 2014

Lismore, Cape South Coast (South Africa) Viognier “The Age of Grace” 2016 ($38, Kysela):  I review very few bottlings of Viognier for the good reason that very few of them merit mention, much less praise.  The flashy, floral ones are often alcoholic and tiring to drink, with insufficient acidity, whereas the fresh ones often lack the aromatics that make Viognier worth considering in the first place.  Renditions from Condrieu (in France’s northern Rhône) that dodge these two problems are almost always painfully expensive, and though that makes sense because the region is tiny and horribly difficult to farm, I still can’t see shelling out $70 for them.  Which brings me to this wine -- admittedly by a circuitous route -- which I took because it is such a brilliant exception to the rule.  It shows floral topnotes that are lovely but also subtle (which is good, because overly perfumed wines almost never invite a second glass), as well as delicious peachy fruit enlivened with excellent acidity.  It seems that the secret to success in this case was two separate pickings…an early one for acidity, and a second to pick up the florals, which only emerge at full ripeness.  Probably tough to find, but even harder to resist after experiencing it. 93 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Cederberg, Cederberg (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2008 ($15, Vinovative Imports): South Africa has lots and lots of Chenin Blanc planted, and the best of the breed is very good, though the category is quite variegated, and consumers need clear indications of the style they can expect from any particular bottle.  This rendition is more structured and focused than the norm, with fruit recalling baked apples and figs rather than the honeyed profile shown by some other examples.  The finish is well defined, with acidity that provides lift but remains well integrated with the fruit notes. 89 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Cederberg, Cederberg (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18, Vinifera Imports): This review has an odd looking designation since the name of the producer and the appellation are identical, but that should be easy enough to deal with, and the appellation is lucky to have such a standard-bearer.  This Sauvignon is delicious and broadly useful thanks to a combination of good depth of fruit with a clean, crisp finish.  There's just a hint of sweetness in the finish, and though it is counterbalanced by acidity, you might try this with lightly spicy foods. 88 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Sadie Family Wines, Citrudal Mountain (Olifants River, South Africa) Chenin Blanc Skurfberg 2020 ($81, Broadbent Selections):  The full glory of fine South African Chenin Blanc is on display in the 2020 Sadie Family Skurfberg Chenin Blanc.  The 60+-year-old Chenin Blanc vines are farmed on decomposed sandstone soils in the Citrusdal Mountain Wine of Origin and yield small quantities of high-quality fruit.  The wine undergoes a slow fermentation and was aged on its lees for 12 months in old oak casks.  The 2020 vintage of Skurfberg is impressive for its purity, rich texture, layered complexity and sheer delicious character.  The nose is forward and appealing with scents of ripe pear, pineapple, peach, yellow apple, honeysuckle and orange zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, peach and pineapple fruits are enhanced by subtle hints of herbs and cream.  The rich and creamy texture of the Skurfberg reflects the high quality of the fruit and the benefits of careful sur lie aging.  The finish lingers beautifully.  This is an outstanding example of top-class South African Chenin Blanc that can compare with Chenin from anywhere on the globe.  It will cellar well for another 5 to 8 years and beyond.         
97 Wayne Belding May 31, 2022

Alheit Vineyards, Citrusdal Mountain (Western Cape, South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Huilkrans" 2017 ($81, Broadbent Selections):  For a winery established only in 2011, Alheit Vineyards has established itself firmly in the top echelon of South African wine producers.  Chris and Suzaan Alheit have focused on identifying exceptional, old-vine parcels in the Western Cape.  Huilkrans is from the Oudam Vineyard, resting at a 450 meter elevation in the Citrusdal Mountain appellation.  The Chenin Blanc bushvines average around 38 years of age and yield high quality fruit.  The 2017 vintage of Huilkrans is a multilayered, pure and exciting white that is impressive in every way.  The nose is forward and complex, with scents of bosc pear, yellow apple, honeysuckle, ripe peach and lemon zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, peach, lemon and tropical fruits underscored by subtle hints of spearmint and cream.  The rich and creamy texture of the Huilkrans reflects the high quality of the fruit.  This is outstanding white wine by any measure.  It is well worth seeking out if you want to explore the high-end potential of the Chenin Blanc grape.      
96 Wayne Belding Aug 25, 2020

M - A - N Family Wines, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2021 ($12, Vineyard Brands):  For years on end, this wine was an “also ran” when I was tasting affordable Chenin’s for restaurant placements, always showing well but always finishing behind the annual renditions of either Raats “Original,” Badenhorst “Secateurs” or Ken Forrester’s “Petit Chenin.”  Well, the Badenhorst rose in price enough to take it out of contention, but what is most interesting is that this wine just kicked down the door starting in the 2019 vintage, and it has been superb ever since.  The 2021 is completely convincing regardless of price, and downright phenomenal when the price is taken into consideration.  It is packed with peachy deliciousness that makes one wonder for an instant whether it might be a bit too sweet, but then the acidity comes roaring into the midpalate and drives right through the finish, keeping this vibrant and energetic while also seeming generous.  For those who open just one bottle of wine each night (meaning, basically everybody other than geeks like me who are tasting all the time) and who want a wine that tastes great as an aperitif but is also very broadly versatile with food, this is the ticket.  Not just a ticket — the ticket.     
92 Michael Franz Nov 23, 2021

Raats, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Unwooded 2016 ($13, Cape Classics): Tasting of ripe pears and golden apples, with a mineral-tinged undertone, this is a first-class example of South Africa’s signature white grape variety.  Chenins from South Africa offer astonishing value in today’s often-inflated wine market.  A wine like this can be both complex and compelling, outperforming many made with more fashionable grape varieties that cost three or four times as much.  If you care about what’s in the bottle more than what’s on the label, you simply have to try them.
92 Paul Lukacs Sep 5, 2017

Raats, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Unwooded” 2009 ($13, Cape Classics):  It is difficult to imagine a better example of dry Chenin Blanc, a varietal that surely deserves to be better known among American consumers.  The wine offers citrus and apple fruit, secondary slate or mineral notes, and an extremely long and evolved finish.  Very clean, it shows nary a trace of the off-putting rubbery note that mars many South African wines.  And the low price tag makes it a veritable steal. 92 Paul Lukacs Jan 26, 2010

M-A-N Family Wines, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2021 ($12, Vineyard Brands):  This wine has — over the past three or so vintages — risen to a quality level at which it now rivals three other South African Chenin Blancs as contenders for the World’s Best White Wine Value (the other three being Raats Family “Original,” Ken Forrester “Petit Chenin” and, though it has crept up in price a bit, Badenhorst “Secateurs”).  In 2021 this has impressive physical substance and viscosity, yet somehow remains light on its feet thanks to excellent acidity — one of Chenin’s inherent virtues.  Although very slightly sweet-seeming with a suggestion of wild honey in both the aromas and flavors, this is not a sweet wine, thanks to its balance and the presence of lovely stone fruit and citrus flavors.  Terrific as a sipper but terrific with lots of foods at the table (including but not limited to spicy ones), this is indisputably one of the best buys of the year in 2022.        
91 Michael Franz Dec 13, 2022

MAN Family Wines, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Free-Run Steen" 2018 ($9, Vineyard Brands): The MAN Chenin Blanc affirms that South Africa is a fantastic source of affordable and delicious Chenin.  Sourced from dry-farmed bush vines in the Agter-Paarl area, the 2018 “Free-Run Steen” bottling continues a string of successes for this wine.  Fresh and fragrant, the bouquet is replete with scents of honeysuckle, pear, green apple, lemon and tropical fruits.  The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with pear, lemon, guava and green apple fruits underlain by delectable floral and spice tones.  Year in and year out, the MAN Chenin Blanc ranks among the best white wine values in the world.  It’s a perfect summer sipper. 
90 Wayne Belding Jul 16, 2019

MAN Family Wines, Coastal Region (Western Cape, South Africa) Chenin Blanc Free-Run Steen 2019 ($9, Vineyard Brands):  South Africa has more Chenin Blanc acreage than any other country.  The MAN Chenin Blanc affirms that South Africa can be a source of affordable and delicious Chenin.  Drawn from dry-farmed bush vines in the Agter-Paarl area, the 2019 bottling continues a string of successes for this wine.  This vintage is refreshing and forward, with scents of fresh flowers, pear, green apple, lemon and tropical fruits.  The flavors are pure, juicy and lively, with lemon, pear and green apple fruits underlain by delectable floral and spice tones.  This is a wonderful reflection of South Africa’s vinous treasure -- the Chenin Blanc.  The MAN Chenin Blanc ranks among the best white wine values in the world.  It’s a perfect summer sipper.    
90 Wayne Belding Jul 28, 2020

MAN Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2014 ($9): The MAN Chenin Blanc affirms that South Africa is a fantastic source of affordable and delicious Chenin.  Sourced from dry-farmed bush vines in the Agter-Paarl area, the 2014 “Free-Run Steen” bottling continues a string of successes.  Fresh and fragrant, the bouquet is replete with scents of honeysuckle, pear, green apple and lemon.  The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with pear, lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruits underlain by delectable floral and spice tones.  Year in and year out, the MAN Chenin Blanc ranks among the best white wine values in the world.  It’s a perfect summer sipper.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 21, 2015

MAN Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2015 ($9, Vineyard Brands): Every year for the past decade, I have eagerly awaited the new release of the MAN Chenin Blanc.  This is consistently one of the best white wine buys in the market.  It again affirms that South Africa is a fantastic source of affordable and delicious Chenin Blanc.  It is sourced from dry-farmed bush vines in the Agter-Paarl area, grown mostly on shale-based soils north of Paarl Mountain. The 2015 MAN “Free-Run Steen” bottling is fresh and fragrant, with scents of pear, green apple, and lemon fruits enhanced by light floral and spice hints.  The flavors are pure, clean and lively, with green apple, grapefruit and green pear fruits underlain by the subtle floral and spice tones.  Stock up now for the warm weather ahead -- it’s a perfect springtime sipper.
90 Wayne Belding Feb 2, 2016

M-A-N Vintners, Coastal Region (Western Cape, South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Free-Run Steen” 2021 ($10, Vineyard Brands):  M-A-N Chenin Blanc shows that South Africa is perhaps the world’s best source of affordable and delicious Chenin Blanc.  South Africa has more Chenin Blanc acreage than any other country and offers a wide range of styles.  The grapes for this perennial favorite bottling come from dry-farmed bush vines in the Agter-Paarl area.  The 2021 vintage is refreshing and forward, with fresh floral scents plus notes of pear, green apple, lemon and tropical fruits.  The flavors are pure, juicy and lively, with apple, pear and citrus fruits underlain by delectable floral and spice tones.  The M-A-N Chenin Blanc still ranks among the best white wine values in the world.  
90 Wayne Belding Jan 17, 2023

MAN Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2008 ($10, Vineyard Brands): If ever there was a wine for the times, this is it.  As we watch our money drain away, any bargain on the wine shelf is appealing, but when a wine is this tasty to boot, that's almost enough to make us forget our financial woes.  (Well, almost.)   This Chenin Blanc is delicious as an aperitif, with plenty of sweet summer fruitiness (think of ripe melons and mangos) to absorb the intense zing of acidity.  It's also got enough weight and intensity to match up with a variety of foods, including simple chicken, seafood or light pasta dishes. 89 Marguerite Thomas Nov 4, 2008

Raats, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Original” Unwooded 2009 ($13, Cape Classics):  Rather like Smuckers in the world of preserves, Raats is a producer with a name to overcome, so it is a good thing that the Chenin Blancs from this house are always winning wines.  Juicy and fresh, this features notes of stone fruits and ripe pears, with just a little hint of wild honey and very little overt sweetness.  The little hint of sweetness that one might discern is very nicely balanced by some fresh acidity that keeps the wine taut through the finish, which is lingering and pure. 89 Michael Franz Nov 2, 2010

Goats do Roam, Coastal Region (South Africa) White Wine 2012 ($10, Vineyard Brands): Light and languid, this white wine (a blend of Viognier, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc) does indeed roam around the Rhône in its blend of grapes and stylistic intention.  It has a very pretty fragrance and amiable flavors, though it is overall so delicate in weight and texture that it’s best served as an aperitif or accompaniment to equally mild-mannered food. 88 Marguerite Thomas Mar 26, 2013

Graham Beck, Coastal Region (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($15, Graham Beck Wines LLC):  Bright and bouncy, with plenty of citrus fruit flavor, this is a tasty Sauvignon Blanc made in what many consumers will think of as a New Zealand style--one that emphasizes vivacity above all else.  It certainly can hold its own with all but the top Kiwis, and has the advantage of being cheaper than many of them. 88 Paul Lukacs Dec 15, 2009

Man Family Wines, Coastal Region (Western Cape, South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2013 ($9, Vineyard Brands): The Man Chenin Blanc makes the All-Star team for affordable white wines year after year.  The 2013 bottling continues a string of successes.  Sourced largely from vineyards in the Agter-Paarl region of South Africa, it shows truly remarkable character for its very friendly price.  The bouquet is bright and fresh, with juicy green apple, pear and citrus fruits backed by intriguing floral and spice hints.  The flavors are as engaging as the nose.  Lovely grapefruit, Anjou pear and green apple fruits entice you to take another sip.  It has a moderately rich texture that is given added interest by the floral and subtle spice nuances that linger at the finish.  This is a gulpable white that will please many palates during the summer days to come.
88 Wayne Belding Jun 3, 2014

Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($10, Vineyard Brands): Porcupine Ridge has offered American consumers first-rate, value-priced Sauvignon Blancs for the past few years. The 2005 rendition may well be the best yet. Made in a grapefruit-scented, faintly herbaceous style, the wine is not especially complex but tastes wonderfully refreshing. 88 Paul Lukacs Oct 11, 2005

Raats Family Wines, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Original” 2008 ($13, Cape Classics): This entry-level Chenin from Raats, a highly respected source for this variety from South Africa, is fairly simple but still quite convincing and delicious.  It offers very pure notes recalling peaches and wild honey, with a lovely balance of generous roundness and defining acidity.  Like top-quality Pinot Blanc, Chenins made in this simple, pure style from South Africa are supremely versatile with food, since they offer a subtle backdrop to foods with complex flavors.  A very good buy, this is enthusiastically recommended. 88 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2008

Bellingham, Coastal Region (South Africa) 'Fair Maiden' 2007 ($18, Cape Wine Ventures): Whether the blend of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Verdelho (what, no kitchen sink?) is intentional or they just used what was left over, it works.  Great floral aromatics and honeysuckle notes suggest it will be sweet, but it's not.  The lively acidity keeps it fresh on the palate.  Just when you think there are no more surprises, an attractive peach-like component comes through in the finish. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009

Fairvalley, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2005 ($10, Vinovative Imports): This wine is the product of an association of black farmworkers in South Africa, and though I'm inclined to root for it on this ground, it is indisputably delicious and admirably affordable when judged on its own merits. Featuring lovely fruit recalling baked apples, it shows a subtle aroma of honey but stays dry through the finish, which is balanced and admirably persistent. 87 Michael Franz Apr 11, 2006

Goats do Roam, Coastal Region (South Africa) White 2007 ($10): Charles Back continues to turn out well-priced solid wines with more character than the price suggests.  This lively Rhône-like blend conveys hints of stone fruits buttressed by vibrant acidity.  It's simple and direct, but beautifully balanced with vivacity that keeps it interesting throughout a meal. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2009

Goats in Villages, Coastal Region (South Africa) Viognier 2008 ($13, Vineyard Brands): I know of no Viognier at this price made anywhere in the world that can compete with this wine but one, made by Yalumba in South Australia.  This shows the lovely floral aromas that are this grape's prime virtue, with medium body and a nice rounded feel to the fruit.  There's just a touch of alcoholic heat to the finish, but it isn't conspicuous or bothersome.  An exceptional value. 87 Michael Franz Oct 7, 2008

Man Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($10, Vineyard Brands): You'll have a very tough time finding a better Sauvignon Blanc at this price level. Thanks to an early release and the freshness-maintaining properties of its screw cap closure, this features vibrant citrus fruit that is taut and zesty without seeming pinched or tart. The wine cannot lay claim to great complexity, but it excels in terms of purity and directness, and will be a great choice to accompany shellfish dishes like clams or mussels. 87 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Man Vintners, Coastal Region (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2010 ($9, Vineyard Brands):  Since it’s never too early to think about warmer weather, put this one on your list for summertime sipping.  South Africa has more Chenin Blanc planted than any other country in the world.  Producers there make a wonderful array of styles from bone dry to lusciously sweet.  This one is crisp, bright and fruity with sufficient lemony acidity for balance.  A subtle sweetness in the finish amplifies the enjoyment.  While waiting for summer, try it now the next time you have chili-laden take-out Chinese fare. 86 Michael Apstein Feb 22, 2011

Spice Route Winery, Coastal Region (South Africa) Viognier 2008 ($23, Vineyard Brands): The team at Spice Route got it right with this Viognier, a grape that can be difficult to transform into a balanced wine.  Floral notes reminiscent of honeysuckle grab your attention.  On the palate, its fleshy texture and hints of peaches are balanced by solid acidity.  It would make a pleasing before dinner drink that will then work well with flavor-filled first course. 86 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009

Avondale, Coastal Region (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($11, The Wild Grape): I was initially a bit concerned that this wine might have already seen its best days, as a 2005 Sauvignon from the southern hemisphere isn't quite a spring chicken. However, perhaps because of its screw cap closure, it is optimally mature at the moment, with more complexity than several 2006 bottlings that I sampled at the same time, yet plenty of primary fruit character still evident. Notes of ripe grapefruit and white melon are very appealing, with just a little grassiness to add complexity and plenty of citric acidity to lend edge and refreshment value. 85 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2006

MAN Vintners, Coastal Region, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Free-Run Steen 2020 ($10, Vineyard Brands):  South African Chenin Blanc is carving out a larger niche in the US market.  The nation has more Chenin Blanc acreage than any other country and offers a wide range of styles.  The MAN Chenin Blanc shows that South Africa can be a source of affordable and delicious Chenin.  Drawn from dry-farmed bush vines in the Agter-Paarl area, the 2020 MAN Vintners “Free-Run Steen” continues a string of successes for this wine.  The 2020 bottling is refreshing and forward, with scents of fresh flowers, pear, green apple, lemon and tropical fruits.  The flavors are pure, juicy and lively, with lemon, pear and green apple fruits underlain by delectable floral and spice tones.  The MAN Chenin Blanc ranks among the best white wine values in the world.  It’s a perfect wine to have on hand for easy summer sipping.       
90 Wayne Belding Aug 10, 2021

Buitenverwachting , Constantia (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($16, Cape Classics):  How could anyone fail to like a wine called Buitenverwachting?  Well, if you can pronounce it well enough to buy it, you’ll definitely be delighted with your purchase.  Made in an unapologetically intense style that never quite turns pungent or overly aggressive, this is a terrific Sauvignon featuring ultra-expressive aromas of capsicum and cut grass, with fruit notes recalling lime and grapefruit and a zesty (but not sour) finish.  This is South African Sauvignon at its best. 93 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2012

Buitenverwachting, Constantia (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($15, Cape Classics):  Buitenverwachting might be a rather intimidating name to pronounce until you get the hang of it, but tasting this wine will provide plenty of motivation for getting the hang of it.  A lovely wine that shows the subtle, nuanced character associated with Sancerre but also the freshness and zest of New Zealand Sauvignons, this is a wine that shows South Africa’s impressive capability for making terrific Sauvignon--and selling it at very attractive prices. 91 Michael Franz Nov 2, 2010

Buitenverwachting, Constantia (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($15, Cape Classics): This is a winery that doesn't need to worry about copyright infringement on its name, and yet there's a decent chance that other producers would like to copy its style of Sauvignon Blanc.  This wine has a nearly optimal balance between grassy, acidic cut and the softer, more melon-tinged side of the Sauvignon Continuum.  Very versatile with food, it has all the zestiness that you'd want in a partner for a plate of cold oysters, and yet it also has enough substance to work with seafood pasta dishes or a nice piece of white-fleshed fin fish. 89 Michael Franz Nov 11, 2008

Fairview, Costal Region (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($13, Vineyard Brands): This South African rendition of Sauvignon Blanc falls somewhere in the middle of spectrum of styles that this grape can produce, falling between the laser-like edginess of one from New Zealand and the riper notes common to California.  Pleasantly pungent and refreshing, it’s a good choice this summer for simply grilled fish or steamed mussels. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009

Spice Route, Darling (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($15): South Africa is turning out some very showy, pungent, zesty and grassy renditions of Sauvignon Blanc, but that isn't really what this wine is about.  It leans more toward the white melon side of the Sauvignon spectrum than the grass-and-grapefruit side, and though it isn't as flashy as a result, it may be less polarizing among consumers and more versatile with food.  Along with that melon-flavored fruit, you'll find a little hint of minerality and just a bit of lemon-lime character to lift and freshen the finish. 87 Michael Franz Oct 7, 2008

Diemersdal, Durbanville (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($20, Abacchus Enterprises): Pricey but undeniably delicious, this Sauvignon shows excellent concentration and depth of flavor. Although it is a medium-bodied wine, it remains very crisp and refreshing in the finish. Fruit notes recall white melons with a squeeze of lime, and there's just the slightest whiff of dried herbs to lend a little complexity to the aromas. Fleshy and zesty at once, this is a highly versatile wine that should prove particularly attractive to restaurant buyers. 89 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2006

Nitida, Durbanville (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($15, Global Vineyard Importers): A complex and delicious Sauvignon, this shows South Africa's ability to produce a nice balance between crisp, pungent wines that bear a family resemblance to New Zealand's renditions while also showing the greater weight of California's better Sauvignons. Green melon fruit is the lead signal, with supporting notes of lime, bell pepper, dried herbs and cut grass. 89 Michael Franz Feb 28, 2006

Diemersdal, Durbanville (South Africa) Chardonnay 2005 ($21, Abacchus Enterprises): With juicy peach fruit backed by fresh acidity and subtle oak notes, this is a very nice Chardonnay intelligently styled to suit many diverse applications. It is medium-bodied but quite satisfying in texture and depth of flavor, with nice acidity lending definition to the finish. You can find plenty of overworked Chardonnays that might be more flashy for a sip or two, but few at this price that will prove as pleasing over the course of an evening. 88 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2006

Boschendal, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay Appellation Series 2013 ($50, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): If you're looking for a simple cocktail style Chardonnay, look elsewhere.  If your Burgundian white wine preferences run toward the refined, elegant, age-worthy and food friendly then you'll want to seek out this beautiful delight from an unexpected source.  Aromas of flowers, lime, honey and faint butterscotch draw you into a citrus driven expression that is zesty and bright, with lime and ruby grapefruit in front complemented by subtle stony minerality, soft vanilla and just a hint of oxidative character that enhances everything.  I've tasted earlier vintages of this, and this bottling continues a string of successes.
94 Rich Cook Mar 15, 2016

Boschendal, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2011 ($40, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): Elgin, a region about 60 miles south east of Cape Town, is known for its cool climate because of its proximity to the ocean.   Chardonnay does well in cool climate because the lower temperatures at night allow the grapes to hold on to their acidity, which translates into freshness in the wine.  Additionally, the slower ripening allows for more flavor development.  Boschendal’s 2011 Chardonnay shows both -- a lovely richness and power without heaviness balanced by vibrancy.  It’s both lively and rich.  The mouth-watering acidity cuts through food, expands the finish and amplifies your enjoyment.   This is a wine to enjoy with chicken breast in a creamy mushroom sauce.  If it carried a Napa Valley appellation, this wine would cost twice as much.
94 Michael Apstein Sep 9, 2014

Boschendal, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2011 ($50, Pacific Highway Wine & Spirits): Cote d'Or, Chablis, Sonoma Coast, Adelaide Hills -- meet Elgin, another great place to grow Chardonnay. It's so nice to run into a completely new expression of a grape. This already has some bottle age on it, and it shows a gorgeous mix of fig, lime, quince, honey, flint, peach and apple in aroma and flavor, with a long rich finish that shows real varietal character, but doesn't remind me of any other Chardonnay. That's a plus in my book! 93 Rich Cook Oct 6, 2015

Iona, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2016 ($33, Martin Scott):  This producer seems amazingly adept at making everything in its lineup, and this brilliant Chardonnay is certainly no exception.  The fruit is drawn from three different clones planted across three vineyard blocks before going through whole bunch pressing and fermentation entirely in French oak (18% of it new).  That looks like a recipe for a big rendering of Chardonnay, but only 20% of the barrels went through malolactic fermentation, with the result that highly energetic acidity powers right through the oak notes to produce a persistent, very fresh finish. 93 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2016 ($24, Verity and Winebow):  I’ve gone on record more than once with the assertion that South Africa makes the best moderately-priced Chardonnay in the world.  Although New Zealand and Mâcon in southern Burgundy are tightening the race, I stand on my assertion, and point to a wine like this as a question-closing case in point.  It gets off to a great start with subtly spicy scents from oak, intermingled with expressive fruit aromas.  On the palate, the fruit impressions recall ripe apples and white peaches, with beautifully balanced acidity (only 15% of the wine went though malolactic fermentation) that makes the wine seem as linear as it seems rounded and generous.  Full of flavor but still very focused, this was aged in 20% new oak barrels, with the remaining cooperage used for the 2nd, 3rdor 4th vintage.  An indisputably outstanding wine and an unbelievably strong value, this reflects great skill in both the vineyard and the winery. 93 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2017

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Gewuztraminer 2009 ($15, Vinnovative Imports): A stunning dry Gewurztraminer, this may well be the best non-Alsatian example of this varietal I have ever tasted.  It displays the grape’s tell-tale bouquet of rose petal and lychee, and on the palate offers plenty of succulent flavor.  What makes it so special, though, is its balance and length.  Gewurtz is a naturally low acid grape, so far too many renditions end up being blowsy.  By contrast, this one tastes remarkably clean and crisp.  As a result, its long, layered finish always remains brilliantly focused.  Part of the wine’s appeal surely comes from its youth, and I have no idea how long the wine will keep.  All I know is that it tastes stupendous right now. 93 Paul Lukacs Feb 2, 2010

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2016 ($24, Country Vintner / The Winebow Group):  This is a very fine Chardonnay indeed, which will appeal to a variety of palates.   It is both assertive and delicate, filling the mouth with fresh fruit flavors (apple, peach, citrus) balanced by gentle oak spice, a subtle flicker of vanilla, and good, refreshing acidity.  It is complex enough to serve as an aperitif, and versatile enough to accompany a range of foods, from seafood (I enjoyed it recently with grilled salmon) to poultry to mac-and-cheese. 
93 Marguerite Thomas Sep 4, 2018

Downes Family Vineyards, Elgin (South Africa) Semillon 2016 ($28, Southern Starz):  I love Semillon but have increasing difficulty finding it, as Australian examples are ever more rare, as are ones from Washington state.  Good renditions are virtually peerless partners with grilled salmon or swordfish, and there’s no doubt that this is a very good rendition.  Substantial but not heavy, this was fermented entirely in wood (30% new), and yet the oak is quite subtle in the finished wine.  Delicious! 92 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Iona, Elgin (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($15, Martin Scott):  This is a very complex, highly successful Sauvignon Blanc.  It incorporates 4% Semillon and some barrel fermentation, but is nonetheless very fresh and vivid, with good aromatic expressiveness that never crosses the line into excessive pungency.  It finishes with fine length and purity, thanks to plenty of citrus acidity. 92 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Iona, Elgin (South Africa) “One Man Band” White Blend 2015 ($30, Martin Scott):  I have no idea why it makes sense to call a wine blended from two varieties, “One Man Band,” but then, the wine is so good that this hardly matters.  The blend is 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, with everything going through fermentation in barrel before 11 months of aging in wood.  Rich and broadly textured without seeming heavy, and spicy without seeming oaky, this is a very well crafted wine.  It could be put to nearly countless uses at the table, including almost any fish dish but also roast chicken or herb crusted pork. 92 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2008 ($17, Vinovative Imports):  When I was last in South Africa to taste across the country’s wines, I was extremely impressed with how excellent the moderately-priced Chardonnays were looking from several appellations in the greater Cape region.  Elgin is one of the coolest and most interesting of these appellations, and Paul Cluver is a terrific producer--as this wine will convincingly attest.  It is substantial but not heavy, and very flavorful but still fresh and focused, with fruit notes of peaches and baked apples that are accented by notes of toast, smoke and minerals.  This puts many Chardonnays costing $40 to shame.
92 Michael Franz Feb 9, 2010

Downes Family Vineyards, Elgin (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ($20, Southern Starz):  Sold as a wine from Shannon Vineyards within South Africa but under the Downes Family brand in the USA for copyright reasons, this is a highly versatile, beautifully balanced rendition of Sauvignon Blanc.  It is styled to lean more toward Bordeaux Blanc than Loire Sauvignon, based on use of a Bordeaux clone and inclusion of 11% Semillon, but I still found lots of pleasantly herbal aromas and good acidic definition.  Especially promising for restaurant settings, but pretty damned strong under any circumstances. 91 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2017

Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007 ($17, Vineyard Brands): Ellis, one of South Africa's leading producers, makes two Chardonnays, one from grapes grown in Stellenbosch and this one, from Elgin, South Africa's coolest viticultural area. The cool climate is expressed by a dazzling freshness and vigor that enhances and amplifies its underlying toasty creaminess.  Despite winemaking techniques such as barrel fermentation, lees stirring and barrel aging that can be overdone and that have the potential to overpower the fruit, this Chardonnay has impeccable balance and finesse.  And those who say they need very ripe grapes to make excellent wine need to look at the modest 13% alcohol of this one.  A bargain at the price. 91 Michael Apstein May 19, 2009

Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007 ($17, Vineyard Brands): A wonderful Chardonnay from one of South Africa's coolest regions, this could be mistaken for a fine Chablis in terms of its acidic structure and the tart apple fruit profile.  It doesn't show the minerality of Chablis, but the fruit is very tasty, and the oak mercifully restrained.  A delicious wine that will provide a winning match for most finfish dishes. 91 Michael Franz May 26, 2009

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2011 ($20): All of the Paul Cluver wines are very well made, but the whites are especially impressive (Gewurztraminer and Riesling especially), and this Chardonnay is certainly no exception. Notably oaked but still showing vibrant fruit and fresh acidity, this is delicious now but capable of improving for another couple of years. Pair with swordfish or scallops.
91 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($17, Verity and Winebow):  This wine is always very good, though this vintage is a bit different than usual.  The aromatics show less of the grassy, dried herb and citrus profile than in most years, which seems to have resulted from a growing season that was very dry -- though not excessively hot.  The palate shows fruit notes recalling ripe melon and passion fruit, but there’s enough zingy citrus-style acidity in the finish to provide definition and cut.  Very successful, regardless of the rather unusual style. 91 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2017

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Riesling 2012 ($22, Carolina Wine Company): The location of Paul Cluver winery in the cool Elgin Valley southeast of Cape Town explains why they excel with Riesling, a variety that thrives in cooler climes.  This dry one has a touch of minerality to accompany the bracing lime-like acidity.  Plenty of substance balances its overall invigorating nature, making it a lively choice for spicy Asian fare of a meaty fish dish, such as grilled swordfish.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2014

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007 ($16, Vinovative Imports): A number of South African producers are really getting Chardonnay into a delicious, versatile stylistic profile lately--and managing to get their wines into export markets at prices that remain very attractive.  This is a particularly excellent example of the genre, with very nice toasty, smoky, nutty aromatics that show the effects of oak, but with a finish that is crisp and clean.  The midpalate shows an excellent textural balance between creaminess and cut.  A very impressive winemaking performance. 91 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Sutherland Vineyards, Elgin (Cape South Coast, South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($16, Canopy Wine Selections):  Sutherland’s Elgin Sauvignon Blanc exemplifies the magic of the region.  Its racy acidity is exciting but the flavors are what push this beautiful Sauvignon Blanc to the next level.  Tropical passion fruit, grapefruit, under-ripe pear, lime, and green apple skins dominate the palate with undertones of white flowers, a little saline tinge, and just a hint of grass ... to remind you that this is Sauvignon Blanc.  For me, Elgin Sauvignon Blancs are magical.  The region sits east of Cape Town and the combination of higher elevations and coastal-influenced winds maintain a cooler temperature.  This cooler temperature is an excellent counterbalance to the region’s sunshine — the cooler temperatures protect the grapes and help retain acidity while the sunshine powers the flavor development during the grape’s growth cycle.  The bottom line: I would love to see more Elgin Sauvignon Blancs on the market as this one clearly outperforms its price.         
91 Vince Simmon Oct 4, 2022

Thelma, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2010 ($29, Cape Classics): Made in the all-bells-and-whistles style, this Chardonnay shows lots of toasty oak notes, but they are admirably balanced with the weight and fruit intensity of the fruit. Medium-plus body is marked by ripe peach and mango flavors, but fresh acidity and spicy oak notes provide very appealing framing. Very well made.
91 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Riesling 2017 ($17, Verity and Winebow):  As the cliché goes, I’ve got good news and bad news.  The good news is that this is an extremely tasty wine, with an overtly sweet profile but good balance thanks to zesty acidity that freshens the finish.  The bad news is that this exemplary producer has discontinued making a dry Riesling, which was a fantastic wine that could give the best dry Rieslings from Australia a run for their money (and though those Aussie wines are not widely know, those who are familiar with them know that they can be spectacularly complex and long-lived).  I managed to avoid weeping openly when told this by Paul Cluver, but just barely.  Considering this wine solely on its own merits, it is very showy, with expressive aromatics and gorgeously juicy fruit.  You can take it to a BYOB Thai restaurant with great success, which is some consolation for the loss of the Cluver Dry Riesling, which you could take anywhere. 90 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2017

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($14, Carolina Wine Company): Paul Cluver, a family owned and run vineyard and winery, lies about 40 miles southeast of Cape Town in the cool Elgin Valley.  They specialize in varietals that thrive in cooler climates, such as this Sauvignon Blanc, which has a seamless mixture of fruit and pungency.  Cluver’s 2012 Sauvignon Blanc is an imaginary cross, similar to South Africa’s location, between New Zealand and California.   It has the ripe fruitiness of a California Sauvignon balanced by a touch of the electricity found in the New Zealand Sauvignon renditions.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2014

Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2006 ($27, Vineyard Brands): Elgin is one of the cooler areas in South Africa and consequently this Chardonnay is less ripe, more tightly wound and restrained compared to Ellis's Stellenbosch bottling.  There are more lemon rather than melon notes here.  His two Chardonnays tasted side-by-side are an instructive comparison and show that the French don't have a monopoly on terroir. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008

Oak Valley, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2006 ($22, Confluence Wine Importers): Along with Paul Lukacs, a friend and WRO colleague with whom I do a lot of tasting, I've discovered that there is a curious correspondence between over-wrought wines and producer names that include the word, 'Oak.'  I'm not kidding about this; when you see this word on a label, brace yourself.  Here, thankfully, is an exception.  Although there's certainly a notable influence of oak in this Chardonnay, it is nicely tuned to the weight of the wine, which is medium-plus in body, but with energetic acidity underlying the fruit.  Notes of peach form the core of the wine's fruit component, but there's also a touch of a riper tropical flavor, along with a little dash of citrus in the finish.  Well made and especially impressive in light of its moderate price, this is a wine to buy if you can find it. 89 Michael Franz Oct 7, 2008

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Gewurztraminer 2008 ($14, Vinovative Imports): Cluver does a great job with varieties associated with Alsace and Germany, including terrific Riesling.  This Gewurz is particularly impressive, since the variety can so easily seem overblown and turn tiring to drink.  However, in this case, you'll find all of the floral perfume you'd expect, but it isn't overly pushy, and the finish is remarkably crisp and clean despite 11 grams per liter of residual sugar.  I'd not have guessed that there was that much sugar still in the wine based on its taste, because it is very effectively counterbalanced by fresh acidity.  Most South African whites have their acidity enhanced by the winemaker, and that was the case in this wine, but the job was deftly performed at the very outset of the winemaking process, and the result is convincingly natural. 89 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14, Vinovative Imports): A very versatile wine from an excellent producer, this wine shows some of the flashiness that South Africa can coax from Sauvignon in its cooler regions.  However, it also shows some breadth in the midpalate, partly on account of the 8% Semillon that is incorporated in the blend.  The lead notes are lemon/lime with a nice herbal edge that is expressive without being pungent, but there's also a little white melon note that will help this work with a wide range of foods. 89 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Riesling 2004 ($12, Vinnovative Imports): Something of a revelation, this dry wine tastes extremely crisp and fresh, with bright citrus (lime) flavors enhanced by a steely backbone and a finish that hints at toast. Beautifully balanced, it offers excellent value, and is as fine a Riesling as I have sampled from South Africa. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 14, 2006

Sutherland, Elgin (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($15, Cape Classics): Elgin is one of the coolest areas in South Africa’s greater Cape region, capable of producing lovely Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but also very expressive Sauvignon Blanc.  This bottling shows full ripeness that keeps at bay any green or excessively pungent notes, yet is offers plenty of cut and clarity to its fruit, which features citrus notes above all but also a nice melon note. 89 Michael Franz Sep 29, 2009

South Hill, Elgin (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($16, Southern Starz): Elgin is an accomplished but still up-and-coming South African region with a truly cool climate profile in many spots that can make excitingly nervy, edgy wines with exciting acidity and sharply defined flavors.  This delicious Sauvignon is a fine case in point, and you'll find an appealing combination of zesty citrus notes with ones suggesting riper, softer melon characters.  This starts off with nice aromas of dried herbs and grapefruit, with softer, riper notes showing up on the palate, which offers some breadth and substance for dealing with foods like finfish or more delicate chicken dishes.  The finish is bright but not overly tart, and the wine shows fine overall integration and balance. 88 Michael Franz Dec 30, 2008

Boekenhoutskloof, Franschhoek (South Africa) Semillon 2012 ($45, Vineyard Brands): A remarkable wine in every sense, with compelling floral fragrance, and beautiful flavors of citrus and chalky (rather than salty) minerality.  This expressive wine is complex and dry yet weighty, and it caresses the palate with a creamy, waxy sensation.
92 Marguerite Thomas Jan 6, 2015

Lismore Estate, Greyton (South Africa) Chardonnay Reserve 2016 ($40, Kysela): American ex-pat Samantha O’Keefe makes this delicious wine in Greyton, a tiny appellation marked by a harsh climate and 900 feet of altitude in which she is the only vintner…presumably on account of the aforementioned conditions.  The fruit for this wine was dry-farmed on steep slopes with shale “soils,” and the vines survive despite a lack of rain only thanks to a layer of clay subsoil that helps retain just enough moisture.  This shows more oak influence than O’Keefe’s non-Reserve Chardonnay (which is too good to be referred to as a “regular” Chardonnay), but largely by accident.  In earlier vintages, this was made in all older, neutral oak, but she needed more cooperage for increased production in 2016, so two of the 5 casks (500 liters in size) were new.  Still, the oak influence on the wine is subtle and very classy, and the overall impression of the wine is spicy and energetic, with an arresting streak of lime and a very stylish, fresh finish.  If more producers of very expensive Chardonnay around the world took a taste of this wine, they’d get a lot less sleep at night.
94 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Lismore Estate, Greyton (South Africa) Chardonnay 2015 ($32, Kysela): Entirely barrel fermented but with quite restrained oak influence, this shows wonderfully nuanced aromas, layered texture, and very impressive complexity in the finish, with all of the notes tailing off slowly and symmetrically.  Outstanding Chardonnay at an entirely reasonable price.
93 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Neil Ellis, Groenekloof (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($15, Vineyard Brands): This excellent Sauvignon Blanc shows yet again that South Africa is the primary challenger to the global dominance of France and New Zealand with this grape variety.  Chile shows real promise, but South Africa is already turning out dozens of consistently excellent Sauvignons, and this bottling is certainly among them.  It shows very expressive aromatic notes, with classic aromas of grapefruit, lime and dried herbs, and yet the wine doesn't seem distractingly pungent.  The flavors are also immediate and intense, yet there's real ripeness to the fruit, lending some weight in the mid-palate that rounds things out and keeps the wine from seeming overly sharp.  This is a complete and convincing wine at an attractive price. 90 Michael Franz Dec 23, 2008

Neil Ellis, Groenekloof (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($16, Vineyard Brands): This has a New World-style focus on fruit with an Old World-style restraint, sort of a cross between a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and a Sancerre. The concentrated aromas are an orchard of citrus: Grapefruit, lime and lemon. Yet, there’s a bit of reserve. On the palate, the structure is lean with vibrant acidity, but the grapefruit and melon flavors with nuanced dusty mineral notes keep it from being austere. It’s a delightful conundrum that will make sense of a dozen fresh oysters.
89 Rebecca Murphy May 14, 2013

Neil Ellis, Groenekloof (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($15, Vineyard Brands): This wine achieves exemplary balance while straddling the line between substance and zestiness. The fruit profile shows both citrus and melon elements, with satisfyingly ripe flavors but also an acidic spine that lends structure and length to the overall impression. This bottling is always very good, but the 2006 is clearly something special and clearly better than the 2005. 89 Michael Franz Oct 24, 2006

Neil Ellis, Groenekloof (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($15, Vineyard Brands): An enticing bouquet introduces this compelling Sauvignon Blanc, citrus and herbal aromas intertwined, with neither seeming tart or harsh.  That mélange continues onto the palate, where the flavors seem simultaneously fresh and rich - an unusual combination, to be sure.   The only downside comes in the finish, which is marred by a distinctly bitter note, the price paid, perhaps, for that rich texture. 87 Paul Lukacs Jan 9, 2007

Cap Maritime, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge (South Africa) Chardonnay 2018 ($54, Vineyard Brands):  This is an ultra-complex, deeply satisfying Chardonnay from a cool-climate project undertaken by Boekenhoustskloof, one of South Africa’s best wine companies, and indeed one of the best in all the world.  A big, rich wine despite the cool climate in the broader area of Walker Bay, it shows remarkable aromatic complexities recalling nutmeg, caramel, vanilla and baking spices.  The flavors are at least as dramatic, with tropical fruit notes and baked apple flavors freshened with an edge of citrus acidity.  These are bolstered by rich oak notes, but these are very well integrated, and though the wine is sure to become even more detailed over the next few years, it is really singing now.  Fantastic juice.          
95 Michael Franz Mar 2, 2021

Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (Walker Bay, South Africa) 2011 ($32, Vineyard Brands):  This Chardonnay proves compelling year after year, with the current 2011 vintage perhaps the best to date.  The wine is rich and lush, with buttery undertones, and more than a hint of spice from barrel aging.  But it’s also beautifully balanced, with crisp, underlying acidity keeping everything in check.  There is nothing remotely blowsy or heavy-handed about it.  Instead, the wine is an example of New World Chardonnay at a very high level. 93 Paul Lukacs Oct 23, 2012

Hamilton Russell, Hemel-En-Aarde Valley (Walker Bay, South Africa) Chardonnay 2015 ($37, Vineyard Brands): I have long been crazy about Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, and this is one of the best vintages I can remember tasting.  This is a winery that concentrates exclusively on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and for good reason apparently.  Hamilton Russell is one of South Africa’s most southern estates, where the maritime influenced terroir is relatively cool.  This beautifully balanced 2015 wine is clear and focused, with crisp fruit flavors and layers of fresh lime and zesty minerality.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 25, 2016

Hamilton Russell, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009 ($32, Vineyard Brands):  Looking for a Chardonnay that’s a little out of the ordinary?  Try this one, which comes from the most southerly vineyard in Africa, and the coolest region for wine production in South Africa.  Production is devoted exclusively to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Expressing the cool climate and vineyard’s unique clay and stone soils, the Chardonnay is restrained yet complex.  With a rich toasty, nutty character, it is savory rather than sweet. 91 Marguerite Thomas Sep 28, 2010

Hamilton Russell, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (South Africa) Chardonnay 2012 ($33, Vineyard Brands): Impressively polished and energetic, Hamilton Russell’s Chardonnay rocks with flavor.  In addition to ripe fruitiness a core of minerality lingers tantalizingly in the background. The overall imprint on the palate is not really Burgundian, not entirely like a California Chardonnay, but something subtly different and altogether enchanting.
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 19, 2013

Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (South Africa) Chardonnay 2011 ($32, Vineyard Brands):  Rich and lush but at the same balanced and harmonious, this Chardonnay tastes of bright citrus and apple fruit, with a toasty, almost buttery undertone from time spent in oak barrels.  Unlike many Chardonnays with that sort of flavor profile, it is cool and refreshing, not hot or ponderous, as the lively acidity keeps the alcohol (a reasonable 13%) in check.  Its finish, complex and so compelling, with a herbal edge and a hint of “minerality,” is noteworthy.  In short, an impressive wine.
90 Paul Lukacs Jul 10, 2012

Weelderige Velde, Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Sur Lie” 2022 ($47):  There is some very serious Chenin Blanc in South Africa, where the grape can rise to heights well above California or even France’s Loire Valley, in the best instances.  Such is the case here, where sur lie aging and some French oak conspire to elevate things beyond the ordinary.  There’s some grip here, and it serves to prop up the melon, guava, and apple fruit while extending the finish as well.  Age this a while.  You won’t be disappointed.      
95 Rich Cook Apr 18, 2023

Safriel House, Paarl (Western Cape, South Africa) Chenin Blanc Reserve, Barrel Fermented 2018 ($25, MHW Ltd):  Safriel House wines are relatively new to the US market, but well worth seeking out.  This superb Chenin Blanc comes from two old, dry-farmed, bush-vine parcels in the Agter-Paarl appellation.  These gnarled vines produce small quantities of exceptional Chenin.  The 2018 Barrel Fermented Reserve Chenin Blanc is an amazing value for the quality of wine in the bottle.  The wine is a concentrated, pure and exciting white that beautifully expresses the breadth and depth of fine South African Chenin.  The nose is forward and complex with scents of pear, peach, honeysuckle, pineapple, vanilla and lemon zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, peach, lemon and tropical fruits are underscored by hints of vanilla and spice.  The rich and creamy texture of the wine reflects both the high quality of the fruit and the skill of the winemaker.  If you love great Chenin, you should try this wine.  You can enjoy it over the next 3 to 5 years.              
94 Wayne Belding May 4, 2021

Avondale, Paarl (Western Cape, South Africa) “Jonty’s Ducks Pekin White” 2019 ($16):  This is a fantastic value!  Jonty’s Ducks Pekin White is a superb Chenin Blanc from the Paarl appellation in South Africa.  The vines are grown organically and are tended to by a flock of ducks which have a taste for the snails that can damage the vines.  The 2019 Jonty’s Ducks Chenin Blanc is aged in large oak barrels and gains complexity from extended lees aging.  The wine is a concentrated, pure and exciting white that expresses the breadth and depth of fine South African Chenin.  The nose is forward and complex with scents of ripe pear, grapefruit, honeysuckle, pineapple, vanilla and lemon zest.  On the palate the layers of luscious pear, citrus, and tropical fruits are interwoven hints of peach, vanilla and spice.  The rich and creamy texture of the wine reflects the high quality of the fruit.  If you love good Chenin, stock up on this one.     
93 Wayne Belding Nov 22, 2022

Avondale, Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Anima” 2017 ($30, Baobab Wines):  This superb Chenin Blanc comes from parcels in the Paarl appellation.  These vines are grown organically and come from a dozen plots and as many soil types within the Paarl WO.  The 2017 Anima Chenin Blanc is a concentrated, pure and exciting white that beautifully expresses the breadth and depth of fine South African Chenin.  It is mostly barrel fermented, with a small amount aged in clay amphora.  The nose is forward and complex with floral notes plus scents of pineapple, pear, peach, vanilla and lemon zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, peach, lemon and tropical fruits are interwoven with hints of vanilla and spice.  The rich and creamy texture of the wine reflects the high quality of Paarl Chenin and the skill of the winemaker.  You can enjoy it over the next 3 to 5 years.          
93 Wayne Belding Nov 16, 2021

Avondale, Paarl (Western Cape, South Africa) “Jonty’s Ducks Pekin White” 2020 ($19, Baobab Wines):  This is once again a fabulous value white wine!  Jonty’s Ducks Pekin White is a superb Chenin Blanc-based wine from the Paarl appellation in South Africa.  The Chenin is enhanced by small amounts of Roussanne, Viognier and Semillon.  The vines are grown organically and are guarded by a flock of ducks which have a taste for the snails that can damage the vines.  The 2020 Jonty’s Ducks Chenin Blanc is partly aged in large oak barrels and gains complexity from extended lees aging.  The wine is a concentrated, pure and exciting white that expresses the breadth and depth of fine South African Chenin.  The nose is forward and complex with scents of ripe pear, Meyer lemon, honeysuckle, pineapple, vanilla and lemon zest.  On the palate the layers of luscious pear, citrus, and tropical fruits are interwoven hints of peach, vanilla and spice.  The rich and creamy texture of the wine reflects the high quality of the fruit.  It has the depth and complexity of wines that cost twice as much.            
93 Wayne Belding Jan 30, 2024

Safriel House, Paarl (Western Cape, South Africa) Chenin Blanc Barrel Fermented, Reserve 2020 ($26, MHW Ltd):  This superb Chenin Blanc comes from two old, dry-farmed, bush-vine parcels in the Agter-Paarl appellation of South Africa.  These gnarled vines produce small quantities of exceptional Chenin.  The 2020 Barrel Fermented Reserve Chenin Blanc is an amazing value for the quality of wine in the bottle.  The wine is a concentrated, pure and exciting white that beautifully expresses the breadth and depth of fine South African Chenin.  The nose is forward and complex with scents of pear, peach, honeysuckle, pineapple, vanilla and lemon zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, peach, lemon and tropical fruits are underscored by hints of vanilla and spice.  The rich and creamy texture of the wine reflects both the high quality of the fruit and the skill of the winemaker.  If you love great Chenin, you should try this wine.  You can enjoy it over the next 2 to 3 years.               
93 Wayne Belding Dec 20, 2022

Avondale, Paarl (Western Cape, South Africa) "Jonty’s Ducks Pekin White" 2017 ($18, Baobab Wines):  This superb Chenin Blanc comes from parcels in the Paarl appellation.  These vines are grown organically and are tended to by a flock of ducks which have a taste for the snails that can damage the vines.  The 2017 Jonty’s Ducks Chenin Blanc is an amazing value for the quality of wine in the bottle.  It is aged in large oak barrels and gains complexity from extended lees aging.  The wine is a concentrated, pure and exciting white that expresses the breadth and depth of fine South African Chenin.  The nose is forward and complex with scents of pear, grapefruit, honeysuckle, pineapple, vanilla and lemon zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, citrus, and tropical fruits are underscored by hints of peach, vanilla and spice.  The rich and creamy texture of the wine reflects the high quality of the fruit.  If you love great Chenin, raise a glass to the ducks who guard the vines.           
92 Wayne Belding Sep 7, 2021

Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) Chardonnay 2013 ($17): Glen Carlou's 2013 Chardonnay shows a toasty oak nose with hints of lemon oil and pie spices. On the palate aromas of lemon oil and pear are bright and distinctive. Well balanced and beautifully structured, this is one of the better Chardonnays you are likely to find for less than $20 a bottle. A Platinum award-winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. 92 Robert Whitley May 26, 2015

Lievland Vineyards, Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vines 2017 ($16, Vineyard Brands):   Chenin Blanc can be one of the great white wines of the world.  Its problem, similar to Riesling, another spectacular white wine, is that the wines range from dry to sweet and that the style is often not apparent from looking at the label, confusing the consumer.  This one from Lievland Vineyards is superb, vibrant and mineral-y with the barest hint of roundness.  Beautifully balanced, it is clean and cutting, but not aggressive because of its mineral-like character.  It is good as a stand-alone sipper or even better with slightly spiced dishes or sushi.  
92 Michael Apstein May 28, 2019

Tormentoso, Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vines 2014 ($14, Vineyard Brands): A delightful Chenin, dry but marked by ripe fruit with autumnal (especially pear) flavors, echoes of stone or minerals on the mid-palate, and a long finish.  The wine is complete and complex, and provides still further evidence that Chenin Blanc remains South Africa’s signature white variety.  Given the attractive price tag, this wine is a veritable steal.
91 Paul Lukacs Sep 22, 2015

Tormentoso, Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Old Vine" 2015 ($14, Vineyard Brands): Made from nearly forty-year-old, non-trellised bush vines, this Chenin Blanc has a distinct streak of minerality beneath its seductively forward fruit flavors.  Soft on the palate, it has just enough acidity for harmony, and exhibits excellent length.  For a mere $14, it offers outstanding value.
91 Paul Lukacs May 3, 2016

Paarl Heights, Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2006 ($9, Boutinot Wine Estates): An exciting, value-priced white, soft so suitable for aperitif-sipping, but substantial enough to pair with many foods.  Marked by bright peach and pear favors, the wine displays excellent balance and genuine depth of flavor.  Drink it all through 2007. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2007

Fairview, Paarl (South Africa) “Nurok” 2011 ($26, Vineyard Brands): A beguiling combination of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Rousanne, and Grenache Blanc, this wine tastes of juicy peaches and pears, with a sweet floral bouquet, and a hint of minerality in the finish. It’s a great summer sipper. The one thing to be careful of, however, is that it tastes relatively low in acidity, so is very much a wine to enjoy now rather than wait with hopes of future development. 89 Paul Lukacs May 21, 2013

Fairview, Paarl (South Africa) “Nurok” 2012 ($26): Revel in the deeply satisfying perfume in your glass. It comes from all those aromatic grape varieties (Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Grenache and Roussanne ) that make you think of freshly cut flowers and damp clay pots brimming with fragrant green herbs.  After this heady inhalation let a sip of the cool wine refresh you with its vivid fruity flavors that are further brightened by a crisp, lemony sensation.
89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 29, 2013

Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009 ($16):  One of the greatest problems many wine lovers have with Chardonnay is the sameness from wine to wine, particularly among the everyday level wines priced below $20 a bottle. Glen Carlou's superb 2009 breaks away from the pack, delivering fresh pear and citrus aromas, a bit of floral on the nose, and a scintillating thread of minerality that separates it from others in this price category. There's also a beguiling spiciness that obviously derives from barrel aging. Clearly one of the most interesting and appealing Chards out there in this price category. 89 Robert Whitley Dec 7, 2010

Avondale, Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2005 ($11, The Wild Grape): South Africa trails only France in plantings of Chenin Blanc, and winemakers across the country are ever more serious about crafting it into high-quality wine. Some take the tack toward barrel fermentation and yeast-stirring in search of wines that are big and complex, whereas others pursue fresh, vivid renderings that will be true to the juicy, inviting flavors of the primary fruit. This bottling is emphatically cast in the latter mold, and it is a great success. The fruit is tough to pin down, as notes of peaches, pears and melons all seem to be suggested at one point or another, and a nice little whiff of honey is perfectly counterbalanced by a refreshing blast of citrus acidity that enlivens the finish. And on top of all this, it offers terrific value. 87 Michael Franz Oct 24, 2006

De Wetshof, Robertson (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay “Bateleur” 2017 ($66, Broadbent Selections):  This wine is made from fruit grown in one of South Africa's oldest Chardonnay vineyards, planted in 1987.  The site offers a combination of gravel, limestone and clay soils and measures just 3.5 hectares, or about 8.5 acres.  In speaking with Johan de Wet I learned that the clones planted here were brought to South Africa from the Clos de Mouches vineyard in Beaune, Burgundy, France.  The grapes were destemmed, pressed, and the resulting juice settled overnight prior to fermentation in 100% new, blond-toasted barrels.  Following racking of coarse lees, the wine spent additional time in barrel with weekly battonage.  After a few months of less contact the wine was racked again and saw a further 12 months aging in barrel.  This wine shows a vibrant pale yellow color with a slightly green rim in the glass.  Aromas are composed of crisp Bosc pear, toasty oak, salt-air, clean button mushroom earthiness and a lactic note.  The wine is both powerful and elegant in its balance, never edging into the oak dominated nutty aromas or an overwrought oily texture.          
94 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023

Arendsig, Robertson (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Farm NR 6069000 “Inspirational Batch 3” 2020 ($35, Truvino):  The vision statement of Arendsig highlights their goals to produce site-specific, single vineyard wines with minimal winemaking influence.  Their “Inspirational Batch 3” is a Chenin Blanc with a beautiful golden color, perfumed floral, melon, wax, yellow apple, and floral goat cheese notes.  The grapes are sourced from Robertson, a warm, low-rainfall region.  Despite being an inland region, trade winds still bring in cooler air enabling the flavor development of their wines without sacrificing acidity.  This acidity helps the flavors pop, enables the wine to pair with a variety of foods, and brightens the mouthfeel of each sip.  The winemaker's choice to use spontaneous fermentation is a win and the wine has an almost flor-like quality giving it a slight sherry note of dried oxidized apple.  The complexity of bright acidity and flor notes make this vintage especially exciting.      
93 Vince Simmon May 23, 2023

De Wetshof, Robertson (South Africa) Chardonnay Estate “Bon Vallon” 2022 ($25, Broadbent Selections):  This wonderfully, straightforwardly delicious Chardonnay is so winningly, obviously delicious that one of its few serious competitors is this same producer’s Limestone Hill release, which is usually on the market from the same vintage (whereas the “Lesca” bottling is oak-aged and released later; sadly, my 2020 vintage press sample was corked beyond recognition).  The Bon Vallon bottling always shows a bit more richness, complexity, and breadth of aromas and flavors, yet it still displays the vibrancy and un-manipulated purity that marks the “Limestone Hill.”  I know for sure that almost everybody who tastes the Limestone Hill loves it, because I’ve helped sell tens of thousands of bottles indirectly in my restaurant consulting capacity over the years.  Everyone who has enjoyed that wine should try this one for a step up, and those who have not tasted either should buy both — tomorrow.        
93 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2023

De Wetshof, Robertson (South Africa) Chardonnay Limestone Hill Estate 2022 ($19, Broadbent Selections):  In addition to being one of the world’s more delicious Chardonnays priced under $25, it is also the single bottle of Chardonnay I would use to convert someone who is just dead-set against the variety, having been turned off by the subtype of soupy Chardonnay that smells and tastes of fake vanilla and fake popcorn butter.  By contrast, this wine is invariably fresh and fun and full of delicious flavors — and when I write “invariably” I really mean it, having tasted each of the last 15+ vintages with extremely consistent results.  Robertson is inland from the cooling waters of South Africa’s Cape region, but higher altitude provides bigger swings in diurnal temperatures, with cool nights being the key to the region’s ability to make superbly fresh wines (including excellent bubbly).  This wisely screw-capped bottle pours out marvelously pure aromas and flavors — all fruit-based — that recall tropical, orchard, and citrus flavors, in roughly that order of prominence.  A truly wonderful sipping wine that also has sufficient substance to work well at the table (especially with moderately spicy dishes), the 2022 release is terrific yet again.      
92 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2023

De Wetshof, Robertson (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay “Lesca” 2020 ($27, Broadbent Selections):  This wine is made from fruit grown on vines aged between 15 and 24 years old.  It is the first of the De Wetshof wines to be barrel fermented.  It is aged in a combination of one, two and three year old barrels.  This wine offers bright, floral and deeper, toasted hazelnut tones to frame and elevate the crisp orchard fruit aromas.  This wine is a turn to the richer end of the Chardonnay spectrum, compared to the younger, unoaked wines from this estate.  The aromas and flavors here seem to echo the best parts of white Burgundy, though the weight is a bit lighter.        
92 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023

Arendsig, Robertson (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Inspirational Batch 3” 2021 ($36, Truvino):  There is rather a lot of detail on the label of this excellent white wine: soils, Calcareous Clay; vines aged 27 years; 12,2000 bottles produced; Farm No. 6069000, South in the Robertson Wine Region.  What I can say after tasting this wine is that it helps define the variety.  Starting with a pale golden yellow color, following on with aromas of quince, apricot and a savory tone composed of earth/soil tones and finishing with a richly textural palate feel which balances zesty acid with a broad and viscous texture.  It is both dense and fresh by turns and makes food flavors pop, a hallmark of Chenin Blanc, for me.  This is an under-the-radar gem from South Africa.        
91 Andrew Holod Feb 27, 2024

De Wetshof, Robertson (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay “Limestone Hill” 2022 ($19, Broadbent Selections):  The De Wetshof estate was established in 1964 as the first winery in the appellation of Robertson.  Currently run by 2nd and 3rd generation family members, this winery's focus is Chardonnay from a range of terroirs. Interestingly, the limestone underlying their plantings derives not from marine organisms, but rather, from ancient, calcified termite mounds.  Fruit used to produce the Limestone Hill 2022 was grown mostly on clay soils, derived from chemical weathering of limestone.  The wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks, aging for 4 months on lees post-fermentation.  It bursts from the glass with compelling aromas of herbal green tea and ground fresh sesame seed.  There is just a hint of CO2 prickle upon taking an initial sip of the wine, lending a fresh feel to the flavors of citrus, crisp green apple, and green herbs followed with a chalky undertone.  This is an exceptional value, especially for those who prefer an unoaked style of Chardonnay.  I also believe this wine would generally out-perform similarly priced Chardonnay from nearly anywhere else in the world at the table.          
91 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023

De Wetshof, Robertson (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay "Bon Vallon” 2022 ($22, Broadbent Selections):  This 100% Chardonnay wine, from the historic De Wetshof estate, is sourced from three vineyard blocks with a higher proportion of limestone in the soil, as compared to the Limestone Hill bottling.  Fermented and aged in stainless steel as well, this wine spent 10 months aging on lees prior to bottling.  This wine offers perhaps a more typical aromatic expression of Chardonnay combining aromas of zesty lemon peel, lifted white floral, marine (seaweed and ozone), and nutty scents.  Elegantly balanced and very long in the finish, this is perfectly suited to convert consumers of white Burgundy to consider drinking wines from the new world.           
91 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023

Springfield Estate, Robertson (South Africa) Chardonnay "Wild Yeast" 2009 ($24): This Chardonnay is medium-bodied, but you won’t find it anything less than satisfying due to the fact that it offers excellent aromatic complexity and lively flavors recalling ripe peaches and baked apples with a spritz of citrus around the edges. Beautifully balanced and eminently drinkable, this is an exceptionally well made wine.
91 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

Springfield Estate, Robertson (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Special Cuvée” 2012 ($16): This relatively large estate does very good work with both whites and reds, and is especially successful with Sauvignon Blanc. Appealing aromas of gunflint, freshly mown grass and lemon zest are very appealing, and though the wine is quite zesty on the palate as well, it also shows sufficient substance to work well at the table.
90 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

De Wetshof Estate, Robertson Valley (South Africa) Chardonnay “Limestone Hill” 2021 ($18, Broadbent Selections):  South African Chardonnay should be in your regular rotation as a new generation of winemakers and growers are taking it to a new level.  This South African 2021 un-oaked Chardonnay impresses with refreshing grapefruit, grilled nuts, wet stone, and slight ginger notes.  The palate unfolds with richness and mouthwatering acidity that crescendos with subtle spice, crushed minerals, and an explosion of citrus.        
91 Miranda Franco May 24, 2022

Remhoogte Wine Estate, Simonsberg - Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Reserve “Honeybunch” 2020 ($30, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co.):  Remhoogte is a highly regarded winery located just outside of Cape Town.  Their Honeybunch is appropriately named and easy to remember — it definitely has a honey note that complements the more traditional pear, apple, and melon notes from the Chenin Blanc.  This honey note comes from partially botrytized grape bunches.  Unlike a dessert wine, Remhoogte seeks for only a small fraction of their grapes to be influenced by botrytis which allows them to make the wine in a dry style — as opposed to traditional dessert-style wines, which use all botrytized grapes.  The honey provides a slight sweetness that is very appealing to the U.S. market.  This is the third vintage of this wine I have enjoyed and it is one I would definitely continue to seek out.     
89 Vince Simmon Oct 4, 2022

Opstal Estate, Slanghoek (Breedkloof, South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Carl Everson" 2018 ($25, Baobab Wines):  While more and more wine lovers are familiar with South African wines from Stellenbosch, Paarl and Swartland, few have sampled many from the Breedkloof District.  Located east of Paarl, over the Drakenstein Mountains, the Slanghoek Ward of Breedkloof lies in a cool and sheltered spot.  The Opstal Estate has been growing grapes since 1847.  In 1950 Carl Everson decided that he would make his own wine rather than sell his grapes to the co-op, and this Chenin Blanc cuvée is named in his honor.  The 2018 vintage of Carl Everson Chenin Blanc is a pure, rich, layered and exciting white that is truly impressive.  The nose is forward and complex, with scents of Meyer lemon, Bosc pear, ripe yellow apple, peach and flowers.  Layers of luscious pear, peach, lemon and tropical fruits unfold across the palate, underscored by subtle hints of cream and herbs.  The rich and creamy texture of the Huilkrans reflects the high quality of the fruit.  This is outstanding white wine at a great price for the quality.  It is well worth a special effort to find it and enjoy it.       
94 Wayne Belding Mar 30, 2021

Opstal, Slanghoek (Breedekloof, Breede River Valley, South Africa) Chenin Blanc Carl Everson Single Vineyard 2020 ($27, Baobab Wines):  The Breedkloof District is a bit off the main South African wine road.  Located east of Paarl, over the Drakenstein Mountains, the Slanghoek Ward of Breedkloof lies in a cool and sheltered spot.  The Opstal Estate has been growing grapes here since 1847.  It was in 1950 that Carl Everson decided to make his own wine rather than sell his grapes to the co-op, and this Chenin Blanc cuvée is named in his honor. The 2020 vintage of Carl Everson Chenin Blanc is a pure, rich, layered and complex white that impresses at every turn.  Drawn from a single vineyard planted in 1982, it has a forward bouquet with scents of lemon, Bosc pear, ripe apple, peach and flowers.  Layers of luscious pear, red apple, peach, lemon and tropical fruits unfold across the palate, underscored by subtle hints of cream and herbs.  The deft use of oak gives a rich and creamy texture and enhances the high quality of the fruit.  This is outstanding white wine at a great price for the quality.          
93 Wayne Belding Oct 24, 2023

Boekenhoutskloof, South Africa (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($13, Vineyard Brands):  Made very much in the racy, grassy style popularized by the international success of Sauvignon Blancs hailing from New Zealand, this South African rendition tastes bright and bracing.  There is nothing remotely subtle or nuanced about it.  Instead, its appeal comes wholly from its clean, vibrant flavors. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 29, 2011

Neil Ellis, South Africa (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Sincerely” 2007 ($14, Vineyard Brands): A multi-region blend, Ellis's Sincerely is a lively expression of Sauvignon Blanc.  While not quite as electrifying as the ones from Marlborough, New Zealand, it conveys plenty of energy and pure citric character enhanced with nuances of fresh herbs. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008

Lindemans, South Africa (South Africa) Chardonnay 2006 ($8, FWE Imports): Lindemans, an Australian benchmark wine company, has branched out, not to California or Chile or Argentina, but to South Africa, one of the New World's hottest wine regions. The first release of Lindemans South Africa is a quartet of popular varietals, all bearing a general South Africa appellation, but drawn from various Western Cape regions, with a focus on Robertson Valley.  The Chardonnay is simple and straightforward, with attractive vanilla and green apple aromas and flavors. It has ample sweet-tart flavors with subtle oak notes; a pleasant white for sipping or with light meals.  87 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 19, 2006

Sebeka, South Africa (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($8):  Aromas of lemon and freshly cut grass. Tart and dry, with lime and lemon peel flavors, crisp and lean in style. 86 Tina Caputo Sep 14, 2010

Alheit, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Chenin Blanc Radio Lazarus Vineyard 2014 ($80, Broadbent Selections): This is a profound expression of the Chenin Blanc grape.  It offers opulent fruit, layers of complexity and a rich texture that displays the quality that is possible to extract from this variety.  Chris and Suzann Alheit discovered a plot of 35 year old Chenin Blanc vines perched on a stony hilltop in the Bottelary Hills of Stellenbosch. They nurtured it, limited yields and have crafted a truly remarkable Chenin.  It has forward aromas of apple, honeysuckle, pear, pineapple and guava with floral, cream and spice tones.  The amazingly rich texture is strikingly evident on the palate.  The apple, pear and tropical fruits are seamlessly interwoven with hints of honey, cream and spice. Made in very limited quantities, this wine will be difficult to come by.  If you are lucky enough to find a bottle, it will change your sense of what Chenin Blanc can be.
95 Wayne Belding Feb 9, 2016

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “The FMC” 2016 ($65):  Ken Forrester’s “Old Vine” bottling of Chenin is so good that you may find it difficult to pony up for this much more costly wine.  However, there’s also a cost to failing to try it, namely, the cost of missing a chance to taste how astonishingly complex and complete South Africa’s best renderings of Chenin can be.  Made from 46 year-old, dry-farmed bush vines, this shows very impressive concentration but also commensurately assertive acidity.  Forrester noted to me that his objective is to make, “The biggest possible wine with the most restraint,” and though this objective can seem internally inconsistent, the wine demonstrates convincingly that it is not.  The fruit component is so extravagantly rich and luxurious that my raw tasting note includes the descriptors, “peach marmalade” and “lemon curd,” yet the citrus component that focuses the mid-palate and drives the finish is to energetic that my note also reads, “almost stinging.”  This is a supremely exciting wine that is already spectacular, but is sure to improve for another decade.  Yikes! 
95 Michael Franz Sep 18, 2018

Longridge, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Ou Steen" 2017 ($45, Baobab Wines):  The full glory of fine South African Chenin Blanc is on display in the 2017 Longridge Ou Steen Chenin Blanc.  The fruit for this wine was sourced from a small vineyard site with decomposed granite soils on the lower slopes of the Helderberg Mountain.  The 38-year-old Chenin Blanc vines are farmed biodynamically and yield small quantities of high-quality fruit.  The wine was aged on its lees for 10 to 12 months in large, neutral barrels.  The 2017 vintage of Ou Steen is impressive for its purity, layered complexity and sheer deliciousness.  The nose is forward and appealing with scents of ripe pear, guava, yellow apple, honeysuckle, peach and orange zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, peach, orange and pineapple fruits are enhanced by subtle hints of herbs and cream.  There is a touch of residual sugar, but it is balanced perfectly by the refreshing acidity.  The rich and creamy texture of the Ou Steen reflects the high quality of the fruit and the benefits of careful sur lie aging.  This is an outstanding example of top-class South African Chenin Blanc.  It will cellar well for another 8 to10 years.       
95 Wayne Belding Jul 13, 2021

DeMorgenzon, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Maestro” White Blend 2014 ($22, Cape Classics): Baroque music is played in the DeMorgenzon vineyards, which the vintners believe “positively influences the ripening process,” and therefore the quality of the wines.  Whether it’s the music, the ideal sunlight exposure (“Morgenzon” means “Morning Sun”), the astute winemaking, or all of the above, this wine is simply sublime.  With floral and citrus elements, it is full and plush on the palate, yet also graceful and sophisticated.  As a bonus, it has a long and intricate finish.  A blend of Roussanne (26%), Chardonnay (25%), Grenache Blanc (19%), Chenin Blanc (17%) and Viognier (13%).
94 Marguerite Thomas Aug 29, 2017

Ken Forrester Vineyards, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vine Reserve 2021 ($17, USA Wine Imports):  The 2021 Ken Forrester Old-Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc ranks among the country’s (and the world’s) top, affordable Chenin Blanc bottlings.  Ken Forrester has been a market leader for South African wines.  The roots of the Forrester estate stretch back to 1689, when the first land grant was awarded.  Today, the winery offers a wide range of red, white and sparkling wines.  Located in the shadow of the Helderberg in southern Stellenbosch, the Forrester vineyards benefit from the cooling breezes off nearby False Bay.  The 2021 Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is aged in oak and marries the exotic old-vine fruit with the vanilla and caramel richness the barrel provides.  It has an exotic nose of ripe pear, apple, pineapple, honey, vanilla and citrus.  The palate is equally complex.  The pure pear, apple, citrus and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of citrus peel, vanilla, caramel and subtle herbs.  The complex aromas and flavors are enhanced by a rich texture and the subtle herb and spice tones that linger at the finish.  It is a delicious taste treat that is well worth seeking out.          
94 Wayne Belding Jun 6, 2023

Mulderbosch Vineyards, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($17, Third Leaf Wines):  Here is a wine that reminds us there is more to South Africa than Pinotage and Chenin Blanc.  From the initial aromatics, it signals kinship with Sancerre-style Sauvignon.  And that style is maintained in the flavors, texture, and finish.  Combining fruit from 4 parcels, veteran winemaker Henry Kotze hit the bull’s eye in only his second vintage with Mulderbosch.  A third of the wine is sur-lies aged in neutral French oak for 6 months which adds a lovely texture and subtle note to the wine.  Its aromas combine melon, green apple, and a chalky minerality, and the flavors are bright, full of melons and dried herbs presented in a smooth, balanced package.  Unmistakably Sauvignon in character, but with a solid core of fruit to balance the fresh acidity.  A classy wine offered at a great price.         
94 Norm Roby Apr 26, 2022

Quinta Essentia, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2016 ($40, Betz Family):  This is a profound expression of the Chenin Blanc grape.  It shows the potential of South African terroir for Chenin.  Quinta Essentia is a joint effort between Betz Family Wines of Washington State and de Morgenzen of Stellenbosch in South Africa.  Their 2016 bottling offers opulent fruit, layers of complexity and a rich texture that displays the quality that is possible to extract from this variety.  It is drawn from four plots of old Chenin Blanc vines in Stellenbosch.  It has forward aromas of apple, honeysuckle, pear, pineapple and guava with floral, cream, citrus and spice tones.  The pleasing and rich texture is strikingly evident on the palate.  The ripe apple, pear and tropical fruits are seamlessly interwoven with hints of honey, cream and spice.  Made in very limited quantities, this wine will be difficult to come by.  It is worth the search, because it satisfies the palate in a delicious and memorable manner.  
94 Wayne Belding Jun 19, 2018

Raats Family Wines, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vine 2017 ($24, Cape Classics):  The Raats Family Winery in South Africa’s Stellenbosch region has established itself firmly in the top echelon of South African wine producers.  Bruwer Raats has focused on making exceptional Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc wines.  The Raats Old-Vine Chenin Blanc comes from three parcels in Stellenbosch.  The vineyards are set on both sandstone and granite-based soils and the vines are 40+ years old.  The 2017 Old Vine Chenin Blanc is an amazing value for the quality of wine in the bottle.  The wine is a multilayered, pure and exciting white that beautifully expresses the style of South African Chenin.  It is partially barrel-fermented and the deft use of oak adds complexity.  The nose is forward and complex with scents of pear, peach, honeysuckle, tropical fruit, vanilla and lemon zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, peach, lemon and tropical fruits underscored by hints of vanilla and cream.  The rich and creamy texture of the wine reflects the high quality of the old-vine fruit.  There is lots to love about this delicious white.  You can enjoy it over the next 3 to 5 years.    
94 Wayne Belding Jun 16, 2020

B Vintners, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Muscat “B de Alexandria” 2017 ($20, Cape Classics):  Dry Muscat can be one of the world’s most exciting white wines, yet it is fast becoming a unicorn, as it is terribly difficult to make, and is dwindling to almost nothing even in the few places where it has traditionally been made successfully (namely, Alsace and South Styria in Austria).  The difficulty with this type of wine is that the floral aromas usually trick the mind into thinking that a sweet wine is on the way, but dry flavors then seem discordant on the palate, producing a sensory phenomenon that expert tasters refer to as “disagreement” between aromas and flavors.  That’s partly a subjective reaction, but partly an objective flaw, as certain wines routinely produce the reaction in an unacceptably large percentage of tasters.  And where I come from, an aspect of a wine that makes lots and lots of people not like it is…a flaw.  Well, this wine is one of few that manages to show really expressive floral aromas that lead into dry, mineral-tinged flavors and a long, totally agreeable finish.  Don’t read what follows with kids in the room, but my raw note from the tasting in which I encountered the wine reads, “Fucking awesome, and as good as any like this that I’ve ever tasted except from the best Grand Cru renditions from Alsace.”  I stand by that.  Just so you’ll know, B Vintners is actually fully named, “B Vintners Vine Exploration Co.”, and is a venture by the team of cousins Gavin Bruwer and Bruwer Raats (the latter being the leading force in Raats Family Wines).  I have exactly no idea why Bruwer is a first name for one and a family name for the other, but both are great guys and they make very, very good wine.  
93 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2018

DeMorgenzon, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Reserve 2017 ($35, Cape Classics):  This terrific wine was sourced from a single plot of vines planted more than 40 years ago, and the exceptional fruit was -- rightly -- treated to 100% French oak from the highly-regarded cooper Vicard, with more than 15% of the barrels being new.  The wood is very well integrated, showing spice notes much more than toast or smoke, which is exactly the result that Chenin lovers should hope for.  Notably rich but neither sweet nor heavy, this shows an uncanny combination of luxurious softness with firm edging…a hallmark of superb South African Chenin from a top producer and a great vintage.  As delicious as it is now, this is really made for the cellar, and another 5 years of aging will greatly improve its integration.  You’d be well advised to join me in buying this baby. 
93 Michael Franz Sep 18, 2018

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2015 ($27, Cape Classics): My raw note from when I tasted this in South Africa ends with a note-to-self reading, “Where can I buy it?”  That should give you a good idea of what I thought of the wine’s overall performance.  The aromas are wonderful, showing the roasted nut and spice notes of very classy oak, and yet the wine’s wood signature is actually very tasteful in relation to the fruit, acidity, and other facets.  The fruit is generous but never heavy, as a notable proportion never went through malolactic fermentation, so the wine is enlivened with some tart malic acid that keeps everything buzzing with energy through the long, symmetrical finish.  If I’m off with my score, I’m off on the low side.
93 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2017

L’Avenir, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Single Block” 2016 ($25, Canon Wines): This old vine bottling (from a dry-farmed site that yields only 4 tons of fruit per hectare) is stunning for its combination of rich fruit, interesting wood accents, and zesty acidity.  Fully 50% of the juice sees time in 400 liter barrels for a year, and the rest goes into second-fill casks.  Very rich, it shows lots of wood spice but very little overt toast, which is exactly the recipe for successfully oaked Chenin.  The balance of fruit and acidity is already excellent, as is the integration of fruit and wood notes, yet the team at L’Avenir believes this is really a 10-year wine.  And having tasted it…I believe as well.  If I can find this for my cellar, I’ll start on it in another 2 or three years, but definitely save some to see how it looks in another 8 or 9.  Wicked good Chenin.
93 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2017

Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007 ($23, Maison Marques and Domaines): Meerlust, a family owned winery best known for their red wines, walks the line between the flamboyance of New World wine and the austerity and minerality of Burgundy with this captivating Chardonnay, the only white wine they produce.  Rich and intense, but not oily or over-done, it has a Burgundian sensibility.  It maintains freshness with a citric acidity that carries into the finish and amplifies the flavors.  And all of this at a reasonable price. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2009

Mulderbosch Vineyards, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Steen op Hout" 2021 ($17, Third Leaf Wines):  South Africa is the wine world’s leading grower of Chenin Blanc, and along with Pinotage, Chenin Blanc put South Africa on the international wine map.  A versatile variety wherever grown, Chenin ranges widely in style in the hands of South Africa’s winemakers.  Henry Kotze, a well-known winemaker in Stellenbosch, took over the reins at Mulderbosch in 2020.  Sourced from three sites within Stellenbosch, this 2021 was fermented in a combination of stainless steel (65%) and neutral large wood vessels (35%).  It is made in a zippy, brisk style with just enough subtle layers to fill it out.  The assertive aromas are a melange of minerals, chalk, green apple and a green but fascinating herbaceousness.  Stone fruits also dominate the flavors in this medium-bodied package with a pleasing smooth texture and hint of melon to balance the zippy personality that is sustained right through the acidic finish.  Made from mature vines grown on the region’s distinct, ancient soils, it begs to be enjoyed with seafood of all kinds.     
93 Norm Roby Apr 19, 2022

Raats Family Wines, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2009 ($26, Cape Classics):  I adore this wine every time I taste it, and though I’ve tasted bottles that were more than a decade old, I’ve still never tried a bottle that showed any fatigue…they just get better and better.  The 2009 is the current release in the USA, but you should definitely not shy away for fear that it lacks freshness at this point.  It shows lovely medium-bodied fruit recalling pears and white melons with backnotes recalling ripe fig and wild honey.  The first impression on the palate is one of round, ripe generosity, and yet the last signals as the finish winds down is one of fresh, lifted citrus fruit, which seems rather uncanny.  Most impressively, the flavors and texture shift across that spectrum from opulence to brightness so smoothly that the shift is almost imperceptible until the sensations are at an end.  A remarkable wine that shows just how terrific old vine Chenin from South Africa can be. 93 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2012

Raats Family Wines, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vine 2017 ($24, Cape Classics):  Those who know this wine over the course of many vintages will be aware of the fact that it has risen notably in price, yet they and all newcomers will be obliged to agree that it remains a great bargain in relation to its price, on account of its superb quality.  Indeed, I can’t remember tasting a better rendition than this one, which shows quite compellingly the excellence of 2017 for white wines from South Africa.  It shows luxuriously substantial and complex flavors, with notes recalling both tropical and stone fruits along with savory undertones and very exciting citrus acidity that enlivens the flavors and freshens the finish.  The wines of proprietor and winemaker Bruwer Raats are among the very best in South Africa, and I came away from my first extended meeting with him immensely impressed by his knowledge, candor and commitment to excellence. 
93 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2018

Sauvignon Republic, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($17): I don't taste South African wines often enough to have a true bead on everything this wine producing nation does well, but there is little doubt that Sauvignon Blanc has great potential. Some of the best I've tasted have come from the renowned South African producer Neil Ellis, but Sauvignon Republic's effort from Stellenbosch in 2007 doesn't have to take a back seat to anyone. This is a stylish Sauvignon that delivers a complex nose of grapefruit and fresh herbs, with an undertone of ripe tropical fruit and a mineral-laced palate. Clean, refreshing and delicious, with no influence from oak. 93 Robert Whitley Jan 15, 2008

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Chenin Avec Chene” 2016 ($36, Quintessential Wines):  Oak is used to great effect here, serving to round of the acidity slightly and add richness and depth of aroma and flavor, yet not compromising the racy acidity that makes everything about the variety so attractive.  This is just entering a very long drinking window  --  very well made wine! 
93 Rich Cook Feb 5, 2019

Warwick, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Professor Black” 2022 ($13, Elektra Wines):  This is a dry wine, silky smooth in the mouth with flavors of pears and peaches and citrus with subtle floral notes enlivened by bright, crisp acidity.  It is a versatile, and can be served as an aperitif or at the table with a green salad with goat cheese and vinaigrette dressing or sauteed halibut.  The land where Warwick Estate is located dates from 1771.  It is in located in the foot hills of Simonsberg Mountain in South Africa.  The wine is named in honor of University of Stellenbosch Professor Black who conducted experiments with peach trees on the Warwick property.    
93 Rebecca Murphy Nov 7, 2023

Cavalli Wine Estate, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Filly" 2020 ($27, Cape Ardor Imports):  From its light yellow color to its strong finish, this is no lightweight, fruity Chenin.  It was barrel fermented in French oak and aged on the lees with frequent stirring for 9 months.  The barrels were young enough to add a definite oak component to the final wine.  But the aromas and flavors emphasize a lemon meringue and dried apricot character backed up by the oak and stony, mineral touches.  Medium-bodied, and solid, it finishes with good length.  There may be a touch of residual sugar, but combined with the acidity, it just adds to the finish.  The Cavalli ranch is also an equestrian park, which sort of explains the “filly” reference.      
92 Norm Roby Jan 25, 2022

Craven, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Karabib Farm 2016 ($24, Vine Street and Metro Cellars):  The young winemaking couple behind this delicious wine is an interesting story all of their own -- she is South African, he is Australian, they met making wine in California, and they have a little kid and a boatload of talent.  As this wine shows, they also have a love for energetically acidic wine, as do I, though I didn’t quite expect to find it in this wine (which shows lovely golden color and honeyed aromas up top).  The color is explained by some oxygen interchange, as this went through elevage in older 500 liter barrels.  The honeyed note doesn’t show up in the midpalate or finish, as this is a rich but truly dry wine with excellent definition. 92 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2017

De Morgenzon, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2006 ($35, Cape Classics): I tasted this wine immediately after returning to Washington from a week in the Loire Valley, and opened it specifically to see how one of South Africa’s flagship renditions of Chenin Blanc would stand up to the bottlings of Vouvray and Savennières in which I had just been immersed.  The short answer is that this wine does indeed measure up very well, thanks to terrific balance and depth of flavor.  Notes of honeycomb, white melon and ripe peach are very appealing, and the opulent, soft flavors are then firmed up by an intense streak of citrus acidity.  Wines that are based on an interplay of dissimilar elements can prove discordant, but in this case the opulence and raciness are very effectively interlaced, making for a drink that is extremely generous but enduringly fresh. 92 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2009

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay “Glass Collection” Unoaked 2018 ($18, Cape Classics):  There’s a lot of Chardonnay made around the world, and now that the big vanilla-butterball style has gone out of fashion, there’s a lot of really good Chardonnay made around the world.  That makes it all the more surprising that one country has a clear lead in turning out delicious, high-value renditions priced under $20, and that country is South Africa.  This wine is a compelling case in point, showing wonderfully pure flavors with peach, tropical and citrus fruit all interestingly intermingled.  Medium-bodied and balanced with fresh acidity, this is so versatile that you’ll need to make a real effort to find a dish appropriate for white wine that it won’t work with, and on top of all that, it makes a great sipping wine too.  Indisputably delicious.  
92 Michael Franz Mar 26, 2019

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay Unoaked “Glass Collection” 2016 ($17, Cape Classics): This is one of the best values I’ve tasted out of more than 5,000 wines to this point in 2017, and even if cost were not taken into account, it would still be a smashing success in my book.  A lovely scent recalling the floral sweetness of honeysuckle gets this off to an interesting start, followed by flavors that aren’t remotely sweet, yet don’t clash at all with the wine’s aromas.  The fruit notes include little whiffs of crisp apples and stone fruits, yet it is a lemony citrus note that takes charge on the mid-palate and runs right through the long, fresh finish.  Loaded with linear energy, this is supercharged with refreshment value, and yet it is certainly not too tart to be enjoyed as a stand-alone sipper.  This 2016 will soon be succeeded by the 2017 in the USA, and I’ll be buying both of them for myself.
92 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2017

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2011 ($21): Complex, complete and thoroughly convincing, this is an object lesson in how good South African Chardonnay can be. Fermented and aged in 50% new oak and 50% second-fill barrels, it shows lots of subtle yeasty, toasty complexities, but they don’t have the effect of undermining the freshness or focus of the rich, delicious fruit.
92 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay "Nine Yards" 2011 ($28): The proprietary name of this wine is a take-off on the old expression of “going the whole nine yards,” and though the wine was given all of the cellar treatments that are typically applied to Chardonnay, it doesn’t come off as overly manipulated. Indeed, on the contrary, it remains sharply focused with energetic acidity, and the penetrating fruit flavors power right through the yeast and oak, and the wine finishes with impressive focus and freshness.
92 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vine 2017 ($15):  Among the world’s most consistent, ultra-high-value wines, the 2017 rendition of this bottling is especially delicious (as are most South African whites from this vintage).  Partially barrel fermented and aged in 400-liter French oak casks (20%) new, the wine is treated to production techniques that seem impossibly lavish for a $15 retail product.  It also tastes impossibly good in relation to its price, with medium-plus body but excellent definition thanks to bright acidity.  Aromas and flavors of stone fruit with citrus edging are at once rich but fresh.  Extremely versatile at the table but also delicious on its own, this is a standout selection.  And by the way, when tasting with Ken Forrester, he showed the 2007 vintage of this same wine, which is still looking terrific, with even more richness but still excellent focus. 
92 Michael Franz Sep 18, 2018

Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($17, Cape Classics): Cutting and piercing in an attractive way, Mulderbosch’s Sauvignon Blanc is the ideal foil for spicy Asian fare.  It will cut through anything on the plate, without being overshadowed, and reawaken any palate.  Its laser-like cut is startling without being aggressive or sharp and actually reinforces the wine’s flavors -- an unusual combination to say the least.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 11, 2014

Prevailing Winds, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2022 ($15, Hemispheres LLC):  A mix of apple and nectarine greets you at the rim and follows through on the palate over signature Stellenbosch stony mineral notes.  A plush midpalate crisps up in the zesty finish, making Prevailing Winds Chenin Blanc a fine foil for fresh seafood preps with rich sauces.  Factor in the nice price and upgrade the fish!      
92 Rich Cook Oct 3, 2023

Sauvignon Republic, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($18, Wilson Daniels): Considering Chardonnay's continuing dominance of the white wine market, you have to admire this group of guys, led by winemaker John Buechsenstein and chef John Ash, who decided to make only Sauvignon Blanc. Even more intriguing is the Republic's approach of sourcing grapes from all of the world's top regions for Sauvignon Blanc. This juicy, zesty Sauvignon comes from the Cape Wineland's stellar Stellenbosch region. Only stainless steel, no oak or malolactic, gives this wine an inviting freshness with hints of passion fruit and lime juice. The flavors are bright and crisp, with a subtle green herbal note. It finishes crisp and clean with good length. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 31, 2006

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2018 ($14, Quintessential Wines):  It’s easy to see why Chenin Blanc has become the signature white grape of an entire country when tasting this delicious wine.  Careful handling preserves freshness of aroma and flavor here with none of the wooly notes that can be a distraction from the bright citrus, peach and mild herbs.  This is my kind of “glass of white” for cocktailing.  It will work great with shellfish as well -- better stock up. 
92 Rich Cook Feb 5, 2019

Simonsig Estate, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2017 ($14, Quintessential):  An excellent rendition of South African Chenin Blanc, this shows the remarkable value and versatility being offered in this category these days.  Both the aromas and flavors are expressive without seeming over-bearing, with notes recalling baked apples and ripe melons, along with a pleasantly bitter citrus pith note at the end of the finish.  Medium-bodied, with good depth of flavor but still fine restraint, this will partner well at the table with almost anything suitable for pairing with dry white wine.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
92 Michael Franz Apr 3, 2018

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007 ($38, Vinovative Imports): This high-end Chardonnay shows evidence of excellent fruit, fine quality oak, and skillful winemaking.  Rich but not heavy, the fruit notes recall ripe peaches and baked apples, with lovely accents of woodsmoke and spices from new oak barrels.  There are also so subtle nutty aromas that lend additional complexity, and nice acidity that lengthens and lifts the finish.  Delicious! 91 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($18, Cape Classics): This wine is consistently one of South Africa's best Sauvignon Blancs, and that is really saying something.  Straddling the line between light- and medium-bodied, this hits a great balance point between crisp refreshment and deep, substantial flavors.  Notes of white melon and lime juice are very appealing, with nice accents of dried herbs lending additional interest.  The acidity is very fresh, yet neither overly tart nor assertive. 91 Michael Franz Jan 2, 2007

Raats, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2008 ($23, Cape Classics):  This producer invariably turns out one of the handful of top Chenins in South Africa every year, and the 2008 certainly keeps that streak running.  Medium-bodied, with deep and persistent flavors but also plenty of lift and linear drive, it features aromas and flavors of melon, peach and citrus pith, with a hint of honey that is counterbalanced in the wine’s finish by a pleasant edge of bitterness that makes for sustained interest sip after sip.  Chenin has slowly become known as a great partner for lightly spicy dishes in several Asian cuisines, but the demonstrable fact is that it is a wonderful food wine with a wide range of applications, so you can confidently crack open this versatile, balanced beauty as a match for almost anything appropriate for white wine. 91 Michael Franz Oct 26, 2010

Radford Dale, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2010 ($25): This single-vineyard wine as run through 100% barrel fermentation performed with wild yeasts. Relatively rich and rather leesy, it remains quite fresh, probably on account of malolactic fermentation having been blocked. Lightly smoky backnotes lend added interest to the finish, which is poised and persistent.
91 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2013

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Chenin Avec Chene” 2017 ($36, Quintessential Wines):  A little oak treatment rounds off the vibrant acidity in this later release Chenin Blanc, allowing white peach and a honeyed note to rise just above signature regional minerality yet remain in harmony with the overall impression.  Be careful about temperature when serving this – too cold and you’ll spoil the delicate tropical vibe.    
91 Rich Cook Mar 31, 2020

Simonsig Estate, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2017 ($14, Quintessential):  This South African Chenin Blanc delivers a lot of pleasure for relatively little money.  With a medium body, it has hints of melon, pink grapefruit and pineapple, plus traces of flinty minerality and an underpinning of good acidity.  This wine is very sippable on its own and makes an excellent match for many seafood dishes as well as more informal fare such as a Croque Monsieur or other variations on the grilled ham and cheese sandwich spectrum.  
91 Marguerite Thomas May 8, 2018

Brampton, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 ($11, Country Vintner): This wine is refreshing summertime in a glass, with evocative notes of fresh white peach, juicy melon, sweet pineapple.  But it's more than just a cornucopia of ripe fruit: with underpinnings of minerality and satisfying length on the palate, the wine shows breeding and finesse. 90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 18, 2008

DMZ by DeMorgenzon, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2017 ($15, Cape Classics):  This entry-level Chenin from DeMorgenzon (an excellent producer) is fermented entirely in stainless steel, though it rests on its lees for a minimum of four months, and a portion of the wine goes through elevage in barrels.  It performs very well in the glass, showing fine freshness in both fruit and acidity, but also good substance and length.  Extremely versatile with food, and a strong candidate for by-the-glass restaurant use. 
90 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2018

Kaapzicht, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2017 ($11):  This refreshing South African Chenin Blanc evokes flavors of ripe peach, nectarine and pineapple, with a faint herbal hint on the finish.  Having had no oak treatment, the wine is wonderfully fresh tasting.  The fruit comes from some of the oldest Chenin Blanc vineyards in South Africa.  Kaapzicht is a large estate (190 hectares, or more than 460 acres) and it has been run by four generations of the same family. 
90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 10, 2019

Kaapzicht, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Estate 2021 ($16, Red Wolf Imports):  Kaapzicht is a family owned and run wine estate in Stellenbosch, South Africa.  Their Chenin Blanc, in particular, has continued to impress me year-after-year.  The wine is done in a dry style with a blend of tropical (kiwi) and tree (pear and green apple) fruit.  The conditions in Stellenbosch are particularly good for Chenin Blanc.  The warm climate is tempered by cool ocean breezes, colloquially known as the "Cape Doctor.”  The wind minimizes mildew and its cooling effect allows the wines to maintain their acidity while simultaneously developing intense tropical notes.  South African Chenin Blanc continues to cross my radar in small wine shops, wine bars, and wine classes and should certainly be on your radar too.  If you see Kaapzicht, don’t hesitate — it’s quality juice.   
90 Vince Simmon Apr 19, 2022

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Petit" 2015 ($11, USA Wine Imports): Chenin Blanc is a wine that tends to be overlooked and underappreciated. Perhaps this lack of endorsement is because it seems to be somewhat terroir specific, or at least it triumphs in certain specific places, most notably France’s Loire region.  Also, and somewhat like Riesling, Chenin Blanc is versatile:  It can be vinified as a sublime sweet wine, a fine sparkling wine, or an excellent dry white wine.  South Africa has now emerged as the world’s other great Chenin country, where it is the most planted grape.  “Petit” is a sterling example of a wine that delivers big satisfaction for little money. Its sensory perceptions suggest bales of hay, ripe pears and honey but it is definitely dry rather than sweet.  While it is not compellingly complex or long on the palate, this wine delivers plenty of pleasure.
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 26, 2016

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009 ($17, Vineyard Brands): Bright and stony, this invigorating Chardonnay offers far more complexity and sophistication than most at this price.  An alluring flinty--almost smoky--quality is reminiscent of Chablis.  Consumers looking for more richness and a fatter style of Chardonnay will be disappointed.  But those wanting a zesty, racy style will embrace it, especially at the price.  90 Michael Apstein Nov 30, 2010

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009 ($17, Vineyard Brands):  Bright and stony, this invigorating Chardonnay offers far more complexity and sophistication than most at this price.  An alluring flinty, almost smoky quality is reminiscent of Chablis.  Consumers looking for more richness and a fatter style of Chardonnay will be disappointed.  But those wanting a zesty, racy style will embrace it, especially at the price. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 23, 2010

Raats, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2007 ($23, Cape Classics): Only France can rival South Africa as a world source for Chenin Blanc, and this wine is one of the handful of top renditions from South Africa in almost every vintage.  A medium-bodied wine with great versatility, it shows fresh fruit recalling ripe figs, peaches, with a delicate floral topnote and just enough citrus acidity in the finish to lend lift but not prove distracting from the soft, broad texture. 90 Michael Franz Jun 2, 2009

Raats Family Wines, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Original" 2018 ($15, Cape Classics):  This was just released in South Africa a month ago, so it won’t likely appear on store shelves in the USA for a few months, but keep an eye peeled, and grab it when you see it.  The wines shows superb expressiveness on both the nose and palate, with stone fruit and citrus notes driven by very energetic acidity.  The finish shows just a hint of citrus rind bitterness, which sets off the fruit very effectively and lends added complexity.  You might think that any reference to “bitterness” is bad news, but trust me… it isn’t. 
90 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2018

Rustenberg, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009 ($20, Cape Classics):  If you love big, creamy, smoky, vanilla-laden Chardonnays, this one is not for you.  By contrast, if you love fresh, pure, juicy Chardonnays with just a little spice around the edges, this is the ticket.  For reasons that are unclear to me, South Africa does extremely well with moderately priced ($16 - $24) Chardonnay, and this is a particularly fine example. 90 Michael Franz Nov 16, 2010

Thelema, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($19, Cape Classics):  Almost always one of the top South African Sauvignons, this wine is looking very good in 2008.  Medium-bodied, it is full of flavor without lacking focus or cut.  It features a very nice combination of citrus fruit notes (lemon and lime) and riper melon notes.  Very versatile in styling, this will work well with simple shellfish dishes but can also pair up with many preparations of fish. 90 Michael Franz Mar 9, 2010

Warwick, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Professor Black” 2008 ($21, Broadbent Selections):  Like many high-end Sauvignon Blancs from South Africa, this wine is really more medium- light-bodied, but it shows admirable freshness and purity in its fruit, which recalls both citrus fruits and flavors that I’d associate more with white melons.  The acidity is prominent but still ripe and well integrated, making this a versatile choice for anything ranging from simple raw shellfish to more substantial finfish dishes. 90 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2009

Helderberg Wijnmakeri, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($13, Vineyard Brands): While this has neither the ardent grassiness of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc nor the subtle minerality of Sancerre, it is in its own original way an exceedingly satisfying little wine.  It offers a pervasive fragrance (hints of lime peel, floral backnotes), fruity flavors, and a crisp but not overly acidic finish.
89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 21, 2014

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007 ($16, Vinovative Imports): South Africa is turning out quite a number of impressively tasty and versatile Chardonnays at approachable prices.  This is an excellent case in point, both in terms of style and overall quality.  There's enough ripe richness to the fruit to provide a generous, creamy feel to the fruit, which recalls pears and ripe apples.  Oak is restrained but still notable, lending toasty, spicy notes around the edges, and there's also fresh underlying acidity that lifts and lengthens the finish.  Tough to find Chardonnay that offers this much complexity and structural interplay for less than $20. 89 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009 ($16, Vineyard Brands):  Rich and lush, but at the same balanced with taut acidity that keeps it fresh and lively, this is a very tasty example of a full-bodied Chardonnay that seems neither heavy nor hot.  As such, it serves as a reminder that a big wine need not be an overbearing one. 89 Paul Lukacs Aug 30, 2011

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2006 ($20, Vineyard Brands): A delicious Chardonnay that is juicy but also very well-structured and hence well-balanced, this is full of ripe fruit with more than a hint of oak.  Definitely New World styled, but in no sense excessive or over the proverbial top. 89 Paul Lukacs Dec 18, 2007

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2011 ($16, Vineyard Brands): With a medium body and sweet, delicate fruit, this South African Chardonnay is polished and nicely balanced. It doesn’t smack the taste buds with overt oak, nor does it hang heavy on the tongue. Especially in view of the relatively reasonable price, this is a Chardonnay worth seeking out.
89 Marguerite Thomas Jul 2, 2013

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009 ($16, Vineyard Brands):  Rich and lush, but at the same balanced by taut acidity that keeps it fresh and lively, this is a very tasty example of a full-bodied Chardonnay that seems neither heavy nor hot.  As such, it serves as a reminder that a big wine need not be an overbearing one. 89 Paul Lukacs Jul 5, 2011

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2004 ($10, Quintessential Imports): Nose suggests honey, minerals and damp wool. Fairly dry, medium-bodied and crisp with a very slight CO2 prickle and a texture that suggests waxiness; has very good concentration of broad, earthy flavor and good length across the palate. Tastes better with each glass. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Aug 9, 2005

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2007 ($12, Quintessential): A vibrant summer-weight quaffer, this truly dry wine tastes of peaches and pears, with a stony undertone and a crisp finish.  It's delicious, and offers a strong counter-argument to those South African vintners who want to replant existing Chenin Blanc vineyards to ostensibly more 'international' grape varieties. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 24, 2009

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($12, Boutique Wine Collection):  Crisp and refreshing, full of juicy fruit (think golden delicious apples and Asian pears) but dry on the finish, this is a very attractive and quite affordable wine that is both delicious on its own and will pair well with salads and much light fare.  With warm weather on the horizon, it whispers of spring--bright and cool, with a core of satisfying warmth. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 2, 2010

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2008 ($14, Boutique Wine Collection):  This very pleasant bottling of Chenin shows fresh but generous fruit recalling figs and white melons, with an aromatic backnote of honey.  Lightly sweet but still lifted and lithe--thanks to some zesty acidity--this will work beautifully as a aperitif or as a partner to lightly spicy Asian seafood dishes. 88 Michael Franz Sep 29, 2009

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2008 ($14, Boutique Wine Collection): This very pleasant bottling of Chenin shows fresh but generous fruit recalling figs and white melons, with an aromatic backnote of honey.  Lightly sweet but still lifted and lithe--thanks to some zesty acidity--this will work beautifully as a aperitif or as a partner to lightly spicy Asian seafood dishes. 88 Michael Franz Sep 22, 2009

Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2006 ($20, Vineyard Brands): Neil Ellis is one of South Africa's star producers.  He makes at least two different Chardonnays, this one from the Stellenbosch region and one from Elgin.  This one is the richer and more overt of the two and will appeal to those who like a little more muscle in their Chardonnay.  Crisp acidity keeps the flavors in check. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008

Sauvignon Republic, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($17, Sauvignon Republic Inc.):

Bracing, with citrus fruit flavors and a noticeable herbal streak, this is a Sauvignon Blanc for people who love the grape's vivacious, vibrant side.  Should you prefer your wines to taste more muted, then pass it by.  But if sheer exuberance is your preference, you'll love it.

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2009 ($12, Quintessential):  A delightful warm weather sipping wine, with aromas and flavors reminiscent of golden delicious apples enhanced by hints of honey and citrus, this wine merits kudos for its impressive balance.  Though certainly crisp, it is in no sense tart, as its acidity provides harmony, not interference. 88 Paul Lukacs May 11, 2010

Simonsig, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2006 ($11, Quintessential): A wonderful bargain, marked by crisp, fresh bosc pear flavors and a surprisingly long finish, this is a summertime white well worth buying by the case--especially if you're planning a party or vacation get-together.  It's not all that complex, but it is very, very tasty. 88 Paul Lukacs Jul 31, 2007

Jordan, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14, Vinovative Imports): Stellenbosch doesn't generally make the flashiest Sauvignons from South Africa, as renditions from cooler climates are zestier and more pungent, but this is a very nice and broadly useful wine that offers enough varietal character to let you know what you're drinking.  The fruit notes recall white melons and ripe citrus fruit, and the feel is generous without seeming fat or unfocused.  The medium-bodied profile will help this match up nicely with baked or sautéed finfish dishes with subtle herb and spice preparations. 87 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Petit” 2008 ($8, Boutique Wine Collection): A terrific bargain, this wine shows very nice ripe fruit recalling autumn pears, along with aromatic accents of wild honey.  There’s enough tangy acidity in the finish to counterbalance the ripe notes in the fruit, and the overall impression is one of generosity conjoined with purity.  Very tasty, and very attractively priced. 87 Michael Franz Oct 6, 2009

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Petit Chenin” 2008 ($9, Boutique Wine Collection): This wine is part of Ken Forrester's Petit tier, the lowest of his three tiers of wine.  By that 'lowly' stature shouldn't deter you from buying it.  Fruity without being sweet, it is lively and fresh and has surprising length, especially given its price.  It's an excellent choice from spicy cuisine or pool-side sipping this summer.   A superb value. 87 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2009

Monterosso, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($12, The Wild Grape): This fresh, zesty wine is just hitting its stride at this point, showing nice fruit notes of citrus and fresh melon. The aromas and flavors are a little tight when the wine is first opened and sampled at refrigerator temperature, but they open nicely with a little warmth and air. This is an affordable wine that you can buy now to enjoy over the winter during oyster season but also know that it will still be refreshing when the weather warms again next spring. 85 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2006

The Sadie Family, Swartland (South Africa) "Palladius" 2012 ($95, Broadbent Selections): Palladius is a powerful, pure and exciting white blended from nine grape varieties (33% Chenin Blanc, 16% Roussanne, 11% Grenache Blanc, 11% Sémillon Blanc & Sémillion Gris, 11% Palomino, 6% Viognier, 6% Clairette Blanc, 6% Verdelho).  It offers opulent fruit, layers of complexity and a rich texture that recalls the best Hermitage Blanc or White Bordeaux.  Eben Sadie has found great, albeit limited, sources of old-vine Chenin Blanc and other varieties in mature, dry-farmed bush-vine vineyards in Swartland--the broad sweep of dry land stretching northwest of Capetown.  The result is a wine of impressive depth and nuance.  It has forward aromas of pears, honeysuckle, peach, Rainier cherries, tangerine and guava.  The flavors are seamlessly interwoven, with the luscious peach, cherry, citrus and tropical fruits melding with hints of honey, herbs, cream and spice.  Its rich texture reflects the high quality of the fruit sources and the winemaking style that supports it.  This is a beautiful wine made in limited quantities.  If you know about it, you probably already have some.  If not, it will change your sense of what South African wine can be.
95 Wayne Belding Sep 8, 2015

Badenhorst Family Wines, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Secateurs" 2018 ($15, Broadbent Selections):  What do you get when you mix together a pleasing palate based on vibrant, summery fruit, velvety richness tempered by refreshing acidity and a tug of minerality?  In this case, what you get is Secateurs 2018 Chenin Blanc.  Having spent time on its lees in concrete tanks and old casks this wine shows freshness, an appealing weightiness, and a relatively long finish.  Secateurs is also surprisingly low in alcohol (13%).  Thanks to its multilayered floral, spicy, citrusy, stony features it is delicious on its own and a fine companion to various dishes, from seafood to almost anything with a cheese component.  As is often true, price is not necessarily a measure of a wine’s worth.  This wine is uniquely interesting, wonderfully aromatic, absolutely delicious and well worth its relatively modest price.          
94 Marguerite Thomas Mar 2, 2021

A.A. Badenhorst, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Secateurs” 2022 ($18, Broadbent Selections):  The 2022 Badenhorst “Secateurs” Chenin Blanc is exceptional in this vintage.  The relatively dry climate and difficult growing conditions in Swartland yield wines with surprising concentration and depth.  The Badenhorst Chenin has an exotic and appealing nose of pineapple, pear, apple, honey and citrus.  The attractive bouquet is underscored by an equally complex palate.  The purity of the pear, apple, citrus and tropical fruit flavors is enchanting and followed by hints of citrus peel and subtle herbs.  The veritable fruit basket of aromas and flavors is enhanced by a rich texture and the subtle herb and spice tones that linger at the finish.  While always among the world’s top Chenin values, the 2022 Badenhorst “Secateurs” Chenin is better than ever.    
93 Wayne Belding Aug 29, 2023

Badenhorst Family, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Secateurs” 2013 ($15, Broadbent Selections): An impeccably balanced wine, with plenty of acidity to give it linear focus, ripe autumn fruit flavors to provide breadth, and an evocative minerality which imparts depth.  Add to all that an enticing bouquet and a long, layered finish, and you have a wine that outperforms many costing three or four times as much.  This is a steal for $15.
93 Paul Lukacs Jan 21, 2014

Mullineux, Swartland (South Africa) Old Vine Chenin Blanc “Kloof Street” 2021 ($20, Skurnik Wines):  The 2021 Mullineux Kloof Street Old-Vine Chenin Blanc is an all-star value!  South African Chenins are well worth investigating for any white wine lover.  Swartland is a broad region that extends north from Capetown.  The relatively dry climate and difficult growing conditions here yield wines with concentration and depth.  The Kloof Street Chenin is drawn from three Swartland vineyards on both shale and decomposed granite soils.  It has a complex bouquet of ripe pear, apple, pineapple, honey and citrus.  On the palate, the pure apple, pear, citrus and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of citrus peel and subtle herbs.  All these nuances are enhanced by a rich texture and the subtle herb and spice tones that linger at the finish.  For the price, it’s truly remarkable.        
93 Wayne Belding Nov 8, 2022

Sadie Family Wines, Swartland (South Africa) “Skerpioen” 2021 ($90, Broadbent Selections):  Eben Sadie focuses on vineyard location and vineyard choices when making his wines.  Skerpioen is an interesting blend of Chenin Blanc and Palomino.  Palomino is the principal grape in most Spanish Sherry but, less commonly known, it was also widely planted in South Africa but has receded to less than 500 hectares in recent decades.  Meanwhile, Chenin Blanc is a South African staple that is growing in export market popularity.  Skerpioen’s old vines are planted in wind-swept limestone in a low-precipitation microclimate.  The wine is quite complex.  The body has plenty of acidity but a touch of residual sugar makes it instantly approachable.  Tree fruit, tropical fruit, floral notes, saline and minerality provide nuance to each sip.  Overall, the wine’s quality is outstanding.  The winery recommends drinking the 2021 vintage in 2026 with a strong caveat that it is also ready to drink now.  My recommendation: Buy two.  One for now and one for 2026.               
93 Vince Simmon Feb 6, 2024

A.A. Badenhorst, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Secateurs" 2015 ($14, Broadbent Selections): This is a delicious white that provides an engaging tasting experience.  The 2015 Badenhorst “Secateurs” Chenin Blanc is consistently among the South Africa's top Chenin Blanc bottlings.  The relatively dry climate and spare growing conditions in Swartland yield wines of considerable power and depth.  The Badenhorst Chenin Blanc has an exotic nose of apple, pineapple, honey, lemon zest and allspice is underscored by an equally complex palate.  The succulent, pure apple, citrus and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of citrus peel and subtle herbs.  The exotic aromas and flavors and enhanced by a rich texture and a subtly herbal and spicy finish that lingers well.
92 Wayne Belding Feb 2, 2016

Badenhorst, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Secateurs" 2017 ($15):  This wine is always terrific, and the new 2017 release is as good as any vintage I can recall.  Supremely versatile with food but damned delicious on its own, this is an object lesson in South Africa’s ability to send us eye-popping bargains.  Floral and faintly honeyed fruit aromas, it shows forward flavors reminiscent of crisp green apples. 
92 Michael Franz May 1, 2018

Badenhorst, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Secateurs” 2017 ($18, Broadbent Selections):  I taste this wine every year, and always brace myself for a downturn in quality, as it seems impossible that it could be so outstanding vintage after vintage.  Yet, the downturn just never happens, and the 2017 is a stellar wine.  It shows quite good density on the palate, with stone fruit and ripe apple flavors, yet it is also very energetic and nimble, with excellent acidity that freshens the finish and invites sip after sip.  Very few white wines from anywhere in the world can match this for versatility at the table or sheer deliciousness. 
92 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2018

Badenhorst Family Wines, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Secateurs" 2016 ($15, Broadbent Selections): If this isn't the best value in quality white wine in the USA, it is surely among the very few top contenders.  We surely have the favorable exchange rate between the Dollar and South Africa's Rand partly to thank for this, but that's not all of the story.  Clearly the even climate in Swartland is part of the equation, as is the skill of the irrepressible Adi Badenhorst.  In any case, this is excellent every year, and the rendition from 2016 is superb, with ripe fruit recalling melons and figs with a spritz of citrus around the edges.  Truly medium-bodied, this manages to be satisfying and refreshing at once, and is supremely versatile with food as a result.  It can be sipped with great pleasure on its own, but can likewise stand up to a roast chicken or most fish dishes.  Undeniably delicious.
92 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2017

Badenhorst Family Wines, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Secateurs” 2016 ($15, Broadbent Selections):  The wine’s golden hue and its heady slightly floral fragrance are followed by lovely deep flavors that suggest mango and summery white peaches.  The vines, which were planted in the 1960s and 70s, are farmed as biodynamically as possible and are unirrigated thanks to granite soils that have the capacity to store water for a long time and release it slowly during the growing season.  In case you wondered, secateurs are pruning tools used to shape vines in winter and to pick grapes in summer.    
92 Marguerite Thomas Dec 24, 2019

Gabriëlskloof, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Elodie” The Landscape Series 2016 ($25, Pascal Schildt): This gorgeous wine is beautifully wooded for 12 months in 500 liter barrels, all of which are French and 30% of which are new.  That’s a pretty intense-looking regimen, but light toast cooperage is employed, and Chenin absorbs oak and still shows fruit better than almost any other variety, and that includes Chardonnay.  In the finished wine, the wood notes are actually quite subtle, showing spice in the aromas and a bit of tannic grip in the finish, but the mid-palate is all about delicious, rounded fruit.  Probably not easy to find at retail, but worth a search.
92 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Mullineux, Swartland (South Africa) Old Vine Chenin Blanc "Kloof Street" 2019 ($20, Skurnik Wines and Spirits):  Fine Chenin Blancs from South Africa should be on every white wine lover’s shopping list.  The 2019 Mullineux Kloof Street Old Vine Chenin Blanc ranks among the country’s top affordable Chenin Blanc bottlings.  The relatively dry climate and difficult growing conditions in Swartland yield wines with concentration and depth.  The Kloof Street Chenin is drawn from three Swartland vineyards on both shale and decomposed granite soils.  The Mullineux Kloof Street Old Vine Chenin Blanc has an exotic nose of ripe pear, apple, pineapple, honey and citrus.  The palate is equally complex.  The pure pear, apple, citrus and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of citrus peel and subtle herbs.  The intriguing aromas and flavors are enhanced by a rich texture and the subtle herb and spice tones that linger at the finish.         
92 Wayne Belding Jan 5, 2021

A.A. Badenhorst, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Secateurs” 2021 ($17, Broadbent Selections):  The 2021 Badenhorst “Secateurs” Chenin Blanc is consistently among South Africa’s top, affordable Chenin Blanc bottlings.  The relatively dry climate and difficult growing conditions in Swartland yield wines with surprising concentration and depth.  The Badenhorst Chenin Blanc has an exotic nose of ripe pear, pineapple, apple, honey and citrus.  The attractive bouquet is underscored by an equally complex palate.  The succulent, pure pear, apple, citrus and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of citrus peel and subtle herbs.  The enchanting aromas and flavors are enhanced by a rich texture and the subtle herb and spice tones that linger at the finish.  South African Chenin should be on every white wine lover’s list of wines to try.        
91 Wayne Belding Oct 4, 2022

Posted Accord, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2020 ($18):  There’s a term in Afrikaans – fynbos – that describes the unique mix of vegetation that grows on the Cape of South Africa.  There’s a touch of fynbos on this pleasant Chenin Blanc, one that supports the citrus fruit and adds depth.  Very interesting wine!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Monterey International Wine Competition.          
91 Rich Cook Mar 23, 2021

A.A. Badenhorst, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Secateurs" 2018 ($16, Broadbent Selections):  Fine Chenin Blancs from South Africa should be on every white wine lover’s shopping list.  The 2018 Badenhorst “Secateurs” Chenin Blanc is consistently among the country’s top, affordable Chenin Blanc bottlings.  The relatively dry climate and difficult growing conditions in Swartland yield wines with surprising concentration and depth.  The Badenhorst Chenin Blanc has an exotic nose of ripe apple, pear, pineapple, honey and citrus.  The intriguing nose is underscored by an equally complex palate.  The succulent, pure pear, apple, citrus and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of citrus peel and subtle herbs.  The enchanting aromas and flavors are enhanced by a rich texture and the subtle herb and spice tones that linger at the finish.  
90 Wayne Belding Oct 15, 2019

A.A. Badenhorst, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "Secateurs" 2020 ($16, Broadbent Selections):  Fine Chenin Blancs from South Africa should be on every white wine lover’s shopping list.  The 2020 Badenhorst “Secateurs” Chenin Blanc is consistently among the country’s top, affordable Chenin Blanc bottlings.  The relatively dry climate and difficult growing conditions in Swartland yield wines with surprising concentration and depth.  The Badenhorst Chenin Blanc has an exotic nose of ripe apple, pear, pineapple, honey and citrus.  The intriguing nose is underscored by an equally complex palate.  The succulent, pure pear, apple, citrus and tropical fruit flavors are backed by hints of citrus peel and subtle herbs.  The enchanting aromas and flavors are enhanced by a rich texture and the subtle herb and spice tones that linger at the finish.         
90 Wayne Belding Nov 2, 2021

Lubanzi Wines, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2022 ($16):  An American pair of backpackers, Charles Brain and Walker Brown, fell in love with South Africa and settled in.  In 2016 they formed Cape Venture Wine Company in collaboration with independent South African winemakers Trizanne Barnard and Bruce Jac.  Since then, they have been successful with canned Lubanzi wines packaged and marketed in the US while the traditional wines are produced and bottled in Swartland.  Sourcing fruit from several dry farmed vineyards within Swartland, they ferment Chenin Blanc with the native yeasts and do everything else needed to make a 100% vegan wine.  This 2022 is pale straw in color and with aeration displays delicate tangerine and lychee aromas with some minerality.  Medium bodied with good texture, it delivers lively flavors of apricot and tropical fruit with good acidity asserting itself in the lengthy finish.        
90 Norm Roby Feb 27, 2024

Mullineux Family Wines, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Kloof Street 2015 ($200, Kysela Pere et Fils): Tasting of sweet pears and crisp apples, this wine offers further proof (as if any is needed) that South Africa is home to the world’s finest dry Chenin Blancs.  It offers vibrant flavors, harmonious balance, and for a medium weight white, surprising depth.  As an added bonus, like so many South African Chenins, it also offers fine value.
90 Paul Lukacs Dec 13, 2016

Painted Wolf, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc "The Den" 2017 ($14, Southern Starz):  A juicy white wine with clean tropical fruit flavors and refreshing acidity on the finish.  A touch of oak gives it a little heft without overwhelming the flavors, and the modest alcohol level (a smidge over 12%) will be another selling point for many wine lovers.  This wine is terrific with creamy pasta dishes and with seafood (I had it recently with a minestrone-style crab soup).  The painted wolves the winery is named for are African wild dogs, South Africa’s rarest and most endangered mammal (only 5500 to 7000 dogs remain in the wild).  Each dog has its own individual markings, and according to the winery these animals are “charismatic, altruistic, persistent, social, elusive, inquisitive and playful.”  Donations from sales of Painted Wolf wines helps support the conservation of the wild dogs. 
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 10, 2018

Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Viognier 2007 ($18, Vineyard Brands): Viognier can be a tough grape to vinify because its characteristic aromatics and flavors don't emerge unless the grape is quite ripe, which can translate into a high and intrusive level of alcohol.  This Spice Route rendition pulls it off nicely, with alluring hints of peaches and honeysuckle without heaviness or the burn of alcohol.  It has a pleasing softness without being overdone or overripe, which means it's a good wine to sip before or while preparing dinner and then to carry to the table. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2009

Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2013 ($18, Vineyard Brands): Though the wine is pleasant and easy to drink, it lacks some of the qualities that make Chenin Blanc such a favorite for many of us.  Yes, it offers fairly generous mouth-filling flavor, but much of Chenin’s usual charming delicacy is here lost in a vortex of oaky nuances.  It also seems to plummet straight into tartness rather than spiraling gracefully towards a crisp and refreshing finish line.
88 Marguerite Thomas Apr 1, 2014

Cap Maritime, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (Walker Bay, South Africa) Chardonnay 2018 ($54, Vineyard Brands):  Every bit as good as the exceptional Pinot from Cap Maritime in the same 2018 vintage, this is priced at the same level and is worth every penny, or more.  Most wine lovers who admire wines from South Africa think of Chenin Blanc as the country’s white flagship variety, which is reasonable enough, but in recent years Chardonnay has emerged as a variety that can challenge the world’s best, and surpass the quality achieved almost anywhere at lower price points in the mid- and upper-teens.  This wine shows the quality that can be achieved at the high end, and both the quality and character of this will – if tasted blind – make you think of Meursault.  Fermented in a combination of 60% new French oak and 40% Nomblot concrete eggs, it shows a nuttiness from the oak but also a persistent purity and freshness from the unoaked portion.  Impressively rich without ever seeming heavy, the wine displays a broad array of scents and flavors including golden apples, citrus fruits and a tropical tinge as well.  The opulent fruitiness is accentuated by creamy palate feel, and though this made me wonder if the wine might finish a bit flabby, that isn’t the case at all, as very well integrated acidity makes it snap to attention with a clearly focused finish.  I’d guess this will gain even more complexity during the next two or three years, but it is phenomenally delicious right now.       
94 Michael Franz Dec 29, 2020

Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Walker Bay (South Africa) Chardonnay 2004 ($25, Vineyard Brands): Hamilton Russell consistently makes graceful Chardonnays, clearly some of the best from South Africa. The 2004 is beautifully proportioned, with alluring toastiness and minerality I associate with great white Burgundy. But check out the price! 92 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006

Southern Right, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($13, Vineyard Brands): I’ve tasted this wine in every vintage from the past decade, and there’s no question that this 2013 rendition is the best release of any within memory.  Manifestly superior in terms of concentration and richness, it actually looks different in terms of its physical properties in the glass, and its textural breadth confirms that visual impression.  The flavors are ripe but also energetically edgy, with strong Sauvignon varietal character that never turns pungent or sour.  Previous releases of this wine showed great promise; this one really delivers the goods. 92 Michael Franz Dec 31, 2013

Bouchard Finlayson, Walker Bay (South Africa) Chardonnay 'Mission Vale' 2006 ($25, Leucadia Cellars and Estate): This Chardonnay is just another example of how South Africa is likely the most under appreciated country for fine wine.  It walks the fine line between overt fruitiness and flavors characteristic of the New World and the restraint and tautness of white Burgundy.  It has a hint of smoke and Meursault-like flavors coupled with just the right amount of toastiness.  Beautifully bright acidity keeps it fresh and brings you back for another sip.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009

Southern Right, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ($18, Vineyard Brands): This wine is always very good, but Southern Right seems to have stepped up its game with Sauvignon in the 2014 vintage.  Obviously it is very fresh, given that it was made within this calendar year, but it is surprisingly free of the sharp, grating edge that very young, high-acid Sauvignons can show when first released.  Actually almost medium-bodied, it shows fine breadth on the palate, with good depth of flavor, but still the cut and definition for which one turns to Sauvignon Blanc in the first place.
91 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2014

Southern Right, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($20, Vineyard Brands):  A seductive blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Counoise and Grenache, this rich red wine is bright and full flavored without being overly heavy.  It’s a wine that’s both serious and very easy to drink, and it’s a wonderful companion to all manner of meat and vegetarian dishes. 90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 7, 2012

Southern Right, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($17, Vineyard Brands): Those who've tasted South Africa's top Sauvignons know that they can challenge the world's best while maintaining a distinctive style.  Trouble is, few Americans have tastes one of South Africa's top Sauvignons.  This is certainly one of the ten best, and it is at the top of its game in 2007.  It is very expressive in varietal character, but qualifies as intense rather than aggressive, with notes of bright citrus fruit (grapefruit and lime) and a classic grassy, herbal note but nothing that seems green or overtly vegetal.  The acidity is very zesty but not sour, and an underlying mineral edge lends added complexity to both the aromas and flavors.  Walker Bay is an extremely promising source for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as well as Sauvignon. 90 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2007

Southern Right Cellars, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($13): Southern Right makes marvelously consistent Sauvignon Blanc.  Their 2007 is no exception. It combines layers of chalky minerality found in Sancerre with bracing New Zealand type acidity characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  Which makes sense, since South Africa is located roughly halfway between those two regions.  A marvelous buy! 90 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008

Southern Right, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($17, Vineyard Brands): Crafted very much in a style associated most often with New Zealand, this quite bracing Sauvignon Blanc displays tart green flavors, more than a hint of grapefruit, and a tinge of sweetness in the finish.  It begs to be paired with fresh shellfish. 89 Paul Lukacs May 1, 2007

Southern Right Cellars, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($15, Vineyard Brands): Light and lively, this wine is rather incongruously emblazoned with a whale on its label, but there's nothing incoherent about the contents of the bottle. Intense citrus fruit with aromas and flavors of fresh limes provide the emphatic lead notes, with a classic accent of freshly cut grass. Pungent and piercing, this is serious Sauvignon for those who love the grape and who want it rendered in a straightforward manner. 89 Michael Franz Mar 21, 2006

Savage Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) “Savage White” 2012 ($42, Broadbent Selections): This is an outstanding example of the great possibilities offered by the vineyards of South Africa.  The Savage White is a creation of winemaker Duncan Savage and combines brilliant, intense fruit with an enchanting and creamy texture.  The bouquet entices with scents of peach, tangerine, guava and pineapple fruits backed by hints of lily and herbs. The bright fruit cascades across the palate with lush flavors of ripe citrus, peach and tropical fruits interwoven with elements of flowers and herbs and is deftly balanced by vanilla and spice nuances from barrel aging.  The exotic, creamy texture is intriguing at every turn.  It’s a delicious treat for lovers of bold and vibrant white wines.  A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (70%) and Sémillon (30%).
95 Wayne Belding Sep 1, 2015

Alheit, Western Cape (South Africa) “Cartology" 2014 ($45, Broadbent): Cartology is a blend of Chenin Blanc (88%) and Semillon (12%) drawn from several old-vine plots in the Western Cape of South Africa.  This is a lovely, pure, multilayered and exciting white that confirms the potential of South Africa’s old Chenin Blanc (and Semillon) vineyards.  The blending of these stellar lots has yielded a wine of impressive depth and nuance.  The nose is intriguing and complex, with aromas of jasmine, honeysuckle, ripe peach, Rainier cherries and lemon zest.  The flavors are layered and appealing with the luscious peach, cherry, lemon and tropical fruits underscored by hints of marjoram and cream.  Its rich texture reflects the high quality of the fruit sources and defines the Alheit style.  Enjoy it with most anything off the grill or full-flavored seafood, pork and chicken recipes.
94 Wayne Belding Jul 26, 2016

Alheit, Western Cape (South Africa) “Cartology” 2020 ($53, Broadbent Selections):  Established in 2011, Alheit Vineyards has quickly established itself in the top rank of South African wine producers.  Chris and Suzaan Alheit have focused on identifying exceptional, old-vine parcels in the Western Cape.  Cartology is their blend of Chenin Blanc and Semillon (93 and 7 percent, respectively) from these excellent vineyard sites.  The 2020 vintage of Cartology is absolutely lovely – a multilayered, pure and exciting white that will make anyone a fan of South African Chenin.  The nose is forward and complex, with scents of ripe pear, mint, honeysuckle, peach and lemon zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, peach, lemon and tropical fruits are enhanced by hints of spearmint, cream and spice.  The rich and creamy texture of the Cartology reflects the high quality of the fruit.     
94 Wayne Belding May 9, 2023

Alheit, Western Cape (South Africa) “Cartology” 2021 ($53, Broadbent Selections):  Cartology has become the flagship wine of Alheit Vineyards in South Africa.  Established in 2011, Chris and Suzaan Alheit have focused on identifying exceptional, old-vine sites throughout the Western Cape.  Cartology is a blend of Chenin Blanc (90%) and Sémillon (10%) from these excellent vineyards.  All of them are growing dry-farmed bush vines over 35 years old.  The 2021 vintage continues a string of successes for Cartology.  It is a multilayered, pure and exciting white that will make anyone a fan of South African Chenin.  Luscious scents of ripe pear, apple, honeysuckle, peach and lemon zest tantalize the olfactory sense.  On the palate, the fruit is luscious and pure, with layers of pear, peach, lemon and tropical fruits enhanced by hints of mint, cream and spice.  All this opulent fruit is underscored by a rich and creamy texture, making the 2021 Cartology a memorable wine to enjoy now or cellar for a few years.       
94 Wayne Belding Apr 2, 2024

Alheit, Western Cape (South Africa) “Cartology" 2015 ($44, Broadbent): For a winery established only in 2011, Alheit Vineyards has established itself firmly in the top echelon of South African wine producers.  Chris and Suzaan Alheit have focused on identifying exceptional, old-vine parcels in the Western Cape.  Cartology is their blend of Chenin Blanc (86%) and Semillon (14%) from these excellent vineyards.  The 2015 vintage of Cartology is a multilayered, pure and exciting white that confirms the wisdom of their endeavors.  The nose is forward and complex, with scents of bosc pear,  spearmint, honeysuckle, ripe peach and lemon zest.  On the palate, layers of luscious pear, peach, lemon and tropical fruits underscored by hints of spearmint and cream.  The rich and creamy texture of the Cartology reflects the high quality of the fruit.
93 Wayne Belding Sep 5, 2017

Fleur Du Cap, Western Cape (South Africa) Bergklder Selection, Noble Late Harvest 2011 ($15, Maisons Marques & Domaines): For all you sticky fans, here's a delightful botrytised wine composed of 76% Chenin Blanc, 13% Sauvignon Blanc and 11% Chardonnay, at a super value price. Scents of peaches, dried apricots and raisins and that great noble rot aroma entice you, leading to a sweet but balanced palate that's bright, with a clean finish that manages to leave you salivating for more despite its 22% residual sugar, and adds a touch of ginger for interest. Serve this as an unaccompanied dessert, or dazzle your guests with it as a contrast to an artisan stinky cheese plate -- and skip dessert!
93 Rich Cook Aug 19, 2014

Kumusha Winery, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($18, Coeur Wine Co):  Founded in 2017, Kumusha is the pet project of Tinashe Nyumudoka, who was born and raised in Zimbabwe before escaping political disorder there in favor of residing in South Africa.  Starting out as a waiter, he moved up the ranks to become a head sommelier and a member of TeamZIM that participated in the World Blind Wine Tasting Championships in 2017 and 2018.  His story is featured in the  documentary, “Blind Ambition.”  This 100% Sauvignon is from a 4-hectare vineyard called Opstal in Western Cape.  Stainless steel fermented and lees stirred and aged for 4 months, the wine is pale straw in color and its intriguing aroma combines melons, with citrus and subtle hints of rosemary.  Its texture is viscous but firm and the flavors show grassy and mineral touches along with a hint of mint.  The finish is crisp and lengthy in this distinct, attractive rendition.       
93 Norm Roby Apr 4, 2023

Alheit, Western Cape (South Africa) “Cartology” 2013 ($40, Broadbent Selections): This is a lovely, pure and exciting white that shows the potential of South Africa’s wide-ranging Chenin Blanc vineyards.  Owners Chris and Suzaan Alheit have found great sources of Chenin in mature, dry-farmed bush vine vineyards.  The result is a wine of impressive depth and nuance, with 12% Semillon blended in with the Chenin.  It has forward aromas of honeysuckle, ripe peach, Rainier cherries, lemon zest and mango.  The flavors are layered and complex, with the luscious peach, cherry, citrus and tropical fruits underscored by hints of tarragon and cream.  Its rich texture reflects the high quality of the fruit sources and makes it a versatile companion for full-flavored seafood and chicken recipes.
92 Wayne Belding Aug 19, 2014

Momento, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc/ Verdehlo 2016 ($30, Broadbent): Never having tasted a blend of these two varieties, I would probably not have stopped to even look at this wine on a retail store shelf, and if I had, I’d have put it back after seeing a $30 price tag as well as a very broad “Western Cape” geographical indicator.  And if I’d done that, I’d have made a very bad mistake.  Verdehlo comprises 22 percent of this blend, and it lends remarkable energy and freshness to the wine, which shows a relatively rich profile based on melon fruit with a hint of pineapple, but also an eye-popping zinginess derived from citrus notes.  Only older barrels are used in making this from whole bunch-pressed clusters.  Very, very exciting stuff that I’d like to try with about 30 different food items.
92 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2017

Wildeberg Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) "The Tea Leaf" 2021 ($15):  Hard to ignore this wine with its colorful tea label.  But the story has it that indigenous tea plants remain within the old vineyards.  Made from 79% Chenin, 14% Palomino and 7% Grenache Blanc, this 2021 was wild yeast fermented in a combination of old large wooden barrels and stainless tanks.  Some lots ferment slowly for close to 10 months and there is some skin contact time as evidenced by the medium yellow color.  Ripe apples and melons define the aroma and the wine is quite big bodied and plush on the palate.  Light lemon and some minerality appear in the rich aftertaste.  The finish is long and nicely rounded, and the wine was a great companion to bacon-wrapped shrimp.  
92 Norm Roby Dec 26, 2023

Ataraxia, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($20):  Beyond Sancerre and Pouilly in the eastern Loire Valley of France, few wines made with Sauvignon Blanc can lay claim to being elegant or refined.  Pungent, yes; bracing, sure; vibrant and vivacious, no doubt.  But sophisticated?  Rarely.  But here’s one.  It tempers the grape’s natural tendency towards aggressiveness with nuance, offering a sleek but subtle profile that remains true to the varietal without ever seeming excessive.  Extremely seductive, this is a Sauvignon that whispers its enticements. 91 Paul Lukacs Jan 26, 2010

Bellingham Estate, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vine “The Bernard Series” 2013 ($20): South Africa is home to some of the best Chenin Blanc in the world.  Indeed, aside from the Loire Valley, I can think of nowhere that produces such high quality Chenin Blanc so consistently.  It should be that country’s signature white grape.  This one from Bellingham Estate shows why.  Refreshing and clean, it has a stony mineraly that is balanced by the barest hint of green apple-like fruitiness.  It’s a wonderful combination of flavors that would be a perfect choice for roast pork or pan sautéed pork chops.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2015

Bellingham Estate, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “The Bernard Series” Old Vine 2013 ($20, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): With great intensity of pear-dominated flavor and an extraordinarily seductive perfume, this is a truly compelling Chenin Blanc, to be savored on its own as well as at the dinner table.  Among the wine’s many charms are rich notes of tropical fruits beautifully balanced by crisp, cleansing acidity that conveys a sensation of stony minerality.
91 Marguerite Thomas Mar 31, 2015

Beyond, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($12, Cape Classics): The full name of this producer is actually not “Beyond” but, rather, Buitenverwachting.  This will tell you why they call it “Beyond,” but also why the wine is so good, as Buitenverwachting is an absolutely world-class crafter of Sauvignon Blanc and a standard bearer for South Africa.  This is one of the best entry-level wines I’ve ever tasted from the winery, showing a light, refreshing profile that proves quite sneaky in its ability to deliver intense flavors and a very persistent finish.  Citrus notes take the lead, but riper fruit notes recalling white melon are also apparent, and the wine’s acidity energizes it without ever turning sour.
91 Michael Franz Feb 18, 2014

Boekenhoutskloof, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Porcupine Ridge” 2018 ($12, Vineyard Brands):  The attractively priced “Porcupine Ridge” line of wines from South African standard-bearer Boekenhoutskloof have been good for years, but recently they’ve clearly moved up several clicks in quality.  The 2017 Merlot and Syrah are both terrific, and this Sauvignon Blanc also shows clear excellence with very expressive aromas and flavors of white melon and fresh citrus along with just enough herbal, grassy topnotes to add complexity without proving distracting.  If I made a wine this good, I’d put my name on it rather than branding it… even if my name were Boekenhoutskloof.  
91 Michael Franz Mar 26, 2019

Boekenhoutskloof, Western Cape (South Africa) "The Wolftrap" White Blend 2017 ($10):  Paying ten bucks for this wine borders on stealing.  A blend of Viognier, Chenin Blanc and Grenache Blanc, it shows generous aromas and flavors reminiscent of pears and peaches, with interesting spicy accents.  Dramatic but focused at once, which is not easy to achieve at any price. 
91 Michael Franz May 1, 2018

Mulderbosch, Western Cape (South Africa) 2008 ($21, Cape Classics): This is perhaps South Africa's most famous Sauvignon, and rightly so, as it is often the country's best.  It displays an impressive combination of racy pungency and ripe generosity that few renditions of this grape (from anywhere in the world) can match.  Citrus-based notes of lime and grapefruit are joined by a riper streak that suggests while melon and tropical fruit, and there's a palpable aromatic streak of dried herbs and freshly cut grass that provides enduring interest.  Crisp acidity never turns sour, and this will consequently pair up well with anything from freshly shucked oysters to more substantial dishes like pasta with clam sauce. 91 Michael Franz Nov 4, 2008

Neil Ellis Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Sincerely” 2009 ($14, Vineyard Brands):  This wine is a South African homage to Sancerre, and in some vintages, has been clearly outstanding in quality while also showing a plausible likeness to a Loire wine.  2009 is one of those vintages.  The wine is extremely expressive in both aromatic and flavor terms, showing lots of grassy, herbal aromas and sharp citrus flavors, but also a vaguely mineral note in the finish that provides an echo of Sancerre.  I didn’t taste the wine blind, but would like to think that I wouldn’t have been fooled about its origin even if I hadn’t seen the label.  However, I would definitely been fooled if I had tasted the wine without seeing its price tag, as this terrific wine is a real threat at $14 to any Sauvignon I know of that is priced at $20. 91 Michael Franz Apr 27, 2010

Essay, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2013 ($10, International Wine Imports): I’ve been enjoying this wine for quite a few vintages now, but never thought before to look at the back label, which explains that the word “ESSAY” is a clever play on “SA,” the colloquial name for “South Africa.”  Ah!  Better late than never to be enlightened.  Fruity and fresh, with nice aromatics (a small measure of Viognier is added to the blend), this is a wine for all seasons, but it will be a particularly welcome addition to the upcoming warmer temperatures of spring and summer, when informal foods and spontaneous gatherings of friends and family call for just such a laid-back, easy drinking and affordable little white wine.
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 8, 2014

Fairview, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($15, Vineyard Brands): Riper and richer than previous Sauvignon Blancs from Fairview (hello global warming?) the wine has a multitude of tropical fruit and melon flavors set off by a faint echo of grassiness.  The grapes were raised in Darling, the coastal region of South Africa.  It’s an easy sipping wine that will complement a range of foods, including mild fish (filet of sole or trout, perhaps), anything that features chicken breasts, and creamy pasta dishes.
90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 28, 2017

Indaba, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2013 ($12, Cape Classics): So much pleasure for such a relatively low price!  This low key, informal Chenin Blanc is sippable, summery, and satisfying.  Chill it thoroughly and then enjoy its appealing juiciness, its mid-range weight, and its refreshing lemony and tropical fruit flavors.
90 Marguerite Thomas May 20, 2014

Ken Forrester, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Petit” 2010 ($11, Cape Classics):  This delicious wine shows fresh aromatics and a clean, zesty finish, but there’s also real substance and depth of flavor in between, with lovely fruit recalling peaches and a backnote of wild honey.  Pure and natural in character, this is a terrific sipping wine that can also prove very versatile at the table. 90 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2012

MAN Family Vineyards, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Warrelwind” 2015 ($11, Vineyard Brands): What a value!  Very true to the variety, this wine exhibits riveting citrus and green herb flavors that linger and evolve for a surprisingly long time.  It’s not for the faint of heart (or palate), but it is extremely refreshing and invigorating.  Often discounted below $10, it is ideal for late summer entertaining.
90 Paul Lukacs Aug 2, 2016

Mulderbosch, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($18):  This wine shows the green side of the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum, with asparagus, grass and lemon zest aromas and flavors joined by stony minerality, finishing crisp and cleansing fresh.  This style isn't for everyone, but I'm a fan.
90 Rich Cook Jan 16, 2018

Bloem, Western Cape (South Africa) “Suider” White Blend 2013 ($13, Spanish Wine Importers): An opulent citrus and floral bouquet introduces this medium-weight white blend, a wine filled with fresh bright fruit and spice flavors.  It smells and tastes of spring, and so proves an apt antidote to the severe winter chill that has swept across much of the country so far this year.
89 Paul Lukacs Feb 18, 2014

Indaba, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2010 ($10, Cape Classics):  This is an indisputably delicious bottle of wine at a very appealing price.  When tasting it, I worried about assigning a score because, on one hand, it wasn’t terribly complex, yet it was so compellingly pure and drinkable on the other hand that I couldn’t fault it for lack of accent notes.  You should try it yourself to learn if my score is too low, and when you do, you’ll find juicy tropical fruit notes intermingled with white melon and freshened with a squeeze of lemon.  Straddling the line between light- and medium-bodied, this is a great quaffing wine but also a promising partner for many foods. 89 Michael Franz Apr 12, 2011

Neil Ellis Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Sincerely” 2008 ($14, Vineyard Brands): If you love Sauvignon Blanc with intense varietal character, you should be aware that New Zealand and France's Loire Valley are no longer the only players in the game.  South Africa is now shipping dozens of racy, intense bottlings of Sauvignon to our shores, and some of them, like this one, check in at prices that are more than competitive with wines of comparable quality from appellations like Sancerre or Marlborough.  This features classic aromas of grapefruit, lime, and freshly cut grass.  These notes are very expressive but not overly pungent, with no vegetal edge.  Similarly, the flavors are fully ripe and quite satisfying, with a zesty finish that is refreshing but not overly tart. 89 Michael Franz Jan 27, 2009

Simonsig, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Sunbird” 2018 ($18, Quintessential Wines):  Though this region is far better known for Chenin Blanc, there are some fine Sauvignon Blancs that you should know about, particularly if your taste runs to the more austere side of the grape’s profile.  Bracingly dry and stony, with easy yellow grapefruit and gooseberry fruit and a satisfyingly scouring finish make for a great summer refresher.  Stock up now, or head south of the equator in search of the season.  
89 Rich Cook Feb 5, 2019

Spice Route, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc 2011 ($16, Vineyard Brands):  This Chenin offers plenty of bright acidity and generous notes of baked apple and pear, plush a dash of spice and suggestion of minerality. It has just enough texture to be an agreeable aperitif and is also an excellent choice to pour with many seafood dishes and light chicken preparations.
89 Marguerite Thomas Dec 25, 2012

Douglas Green Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc "The Beach House" 2013 ($11, Cape Wine Ventures): South Africa has more than Steen to offer when it comes to white wine.  Here’s a bright quaffer from Douglas Green that will cool you off as the temperature start going up here in the northern hemisphere.  It’s got melon, gooseberry, lemon and lime with a lively streak of stony minerality and a crisp refreshing finish that will pair nicely with spring salads or light seafood.
88 Rich Cook Mar 18, 2014

Goats do Roam, Western Cape (South Africa) 'White' 2008 ($10, Vineyard Brands): Although it’s Charles Back’s pun-laden labels that catch your attention, the wine in the bottle is what holds it.  Hints—just hints—of apricot and peach-like flavors buttressed by good acidity makes this southern Rhone lookalike easy to recommend.  Clean and fresh, without a trace of heaviness, it has surprising length, especially at the price. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009

Goats do Roam, Western Cape (South Africa) White 2014 ($10, Vineyard Brands): An informal easy sipper, “Goats” boasts pleasantly understated fruit and a gossamer texture.  Blended from Viognier (41%), Roussanne (38%) and Grenache Blanc (21%), it is lightly lemony on the finish and is an altogether likeable little wine.
88 Marguerite Thomas Oct 25, 2016

Sincerely, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($13, Vineyard Brands): The second label of highly regarded Neil Ellis, Sincerely offers well-made wines that taste clean, fresh, and true to the varietal.  They do not have either the force or the complexity of the Ellis wines, but they also come at more affordable price points, and so provide good value.  That's precisely the case here, as the wine tastes bright and vibrant, with zesty grapefruit flavor and echoes of fresh herbs in the bouquet. 88 Paul Lukacs Feb 3, 2009

The Wolftrap, Western Cape (South Africa) Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc 2012 ($11, Vineyard Brands): Silkiness defines the texture of this relatively tranquil wine, blended from Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc.  It’s surprisingly shy given that the individual grapes in this particular blend normally tend to be brazenly fragrant and showy.  What’s delivered here is quiet pleasure. 88 Marguerite Thomas Mar 4, 2014

Juno Wine Co., Western Cape (South Africa) Chardonnay - Viognier “ArtHouse” 2008 ($14, Confluence Wine Importers): This blend of 75% Chardonnay and 25% Viognier in Juno's 'ArtHouse' line is priced above the 'Cape Maidens' line, but the extra $4 you'll need to shell out will be very well spent.  The wine shows a nice floral topnote (presumably from the Viognier component) that is expressive without being overbearing, and likewise the flavors of peach and tropical fruit are rich and satisfying without seeming heavy. 87 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008

Man Vintners, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($11, Vineyard Brands):  Very easy to enjoy, with zesty grapefruit flavors enhanced by hints of fresh herbs and a bouquet that hints at newly mown grass, this South African is made in a style that many wine lovers associate with New Zealand.  It’s not as intensely-flavored as the best Kiwi examples, but it’s also very reasonably priced.  (I’ve seen it discounted below $10.)  For summer entertaining, that’s hard to beat. 87 Paul Lukacs Jun 28, 2011

Neil Ellis Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc "Sincerely" 2006 ($15, Vineyard Brands):  Styles as an homage to Sancerre, this proves pretty plausible thanks to bright fruit recalling a honeydew melon spritzed with lime.  Fresh and pure, this will prove a pleasing partner for shellfish, delicate preparations of fin fish, or light chicken dishes with a citrus component. 87 Michael Franz Mar 20, 2007

Porcupine Ridge, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($9, Vineyard Brands): This vibrant, pleasantly pungent Sauvignon Blanc is a terrific value.  Simple and direct, it delivers a clear--but not aggressive--herbaceous bite characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc.  If there's a more enjoyable $9 Sauvignon Blanc on the market, I've yet to find it. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2009

Porcupine Ridge, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($10, Vineyard Brands):  Porcupine Ridge is one of four labels produced by Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa’s finest producers.  (As a point of trivia, Boekenhoutskloof means ravine of the boekenhout [pronounced book-n-howed], a tree unique to the area, the wood of which is prized for furniture).  This label always delivers solid well-priced wine that is easy to recommend.  Their 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is no exception.  Grassy, herbal notes meld with vibrant acidity.  Is it a fabulously complex Sauvignon Blanc?  No.  But a wonderful $10 wine perfect with simple seafood or take-out rotisserie chicken? You bet. 87 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2010

The Beach House, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2012 ($10): The brand name suggests easy and breezy, and the wine delivers the same, with bright lemon-lime, lemongrass and green melon aromas and flavors.  It’s crisp, clean and refreshing -- a fine foil for oysters, simply prepared seafood, salads and vegetable dishes.  Who needs super-complexity when it’s summer?
87 Linda Murphy Jun 4, 2013

Kumala, Western Cape (South Africa) Chardonnay 2004 ($9, Vincor USA): With Kumala, the South Africans aim to compete with the Australian Yellow Tail and Little Penguin labels. And judging by this Chardonnay, the Aussies should watch out. This simple, but very good wine has subtle notes of pears, a whiff of creaminess, and delivers more than I expected for the price. 85 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005

Juno Wine Co., Western Cape (South Africa) Chardonnay “Cape Maidens" 2008 ($10, Confluence Wine Importers): This is a very solid wine that is quite attractive in both packaging and price.  The aromas and flavors really ring true to the varietal character of Chardonnay, with nice notes of pear and pineapple.  Medium-bodied, it shows some breadth and depth on the palate and just a hint of sweetness in the finish, and yet it finishes cleanly and will work well with a wide range of foods. 84 Michael Franz Sep 30, 2008