REVIEW ARCHIVES

Prior to the May 14, 2024 Issue

AUSTRALIA

Red:

Shaw and Smith, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Shiraz 2003 ($30, Vintus): Australia's blockbuster Shirazes get so much attention that we can almost forget the very fine, gentler Shirazes from that country's cooler climates. This Shiraz from Adelaide Hills is dry and medium-bodied with fresh acidity enhancing its black and red berry character and delicate herbal and peppery notes. The tannin is so well balanced by the wine's fruitiness that it's barely there. A young wine with good concentration, depth and length, it will improve over five years. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Oct 11, 2005

George Wyndham, Australia (Southern Hemisphere) Shiraz "Bin 555" 2016 ($10):  A great value in a Shiraz for fans of a forward menthol style where the black and blue fruit flavors ride right alongside.  This is a meat pairing joy -- grill up a mixed platter of goodies and go to town.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
93 Rich Cook Oct 2, 2018

Seppeltsfield, Australia () 10-Year "Para Grand Tawny" NV ($43, Legend):  Seppeltsfield can trace its history back to the 1800s and is famed in Australia for their well-regarded fortified Tawnies, which include their legendary 100-year single vintage Tawny, released each year.  Their 10-Year Para Grand Tawny may not have quite that much age, but it offers incredible value.  Sweet vanilla and baking spice fade to notes of espresso, dark chocolate, and toasted orange peel.  This Tawny has fantastic balance, with sweetness, acidity, and bitterness all hitting your palate in turn.  Pair with crème brûlée or drink on its own as a digestif.         
93 John McDermott Aug 29, 2023

Jacob’s Creek, Australia () Cabernet Sauvignon "Classic" 2021 ($12):  I’m not sure I’ve tasted a wine bearing an appellation that embraces an entire continent, but I’m entirely sure I’ve never tasted a better wine under such a designation.  This is real Cabernet with real textural guts and flavor, plus excellent faithfulness to the flavor profile of the variety, all at a remarkably low price.  Dark berry fruit is punchy but pure, with just a touch of oak shading, yet it wouldn’t need a stronger wood signature to prove convincing.  Wines like this are among the best reasons for having wines judged blind by seasoned tasters in a wine competition:  Over-achievers that would otherwise fly under the radar (including my radar, I confess) have a fair chance to show their strength.        
91 Michael Franz Jul 11, 2023

Jacob's Creek, Australia (Southern Hemisphere) Shiraz Two Lands 2013 ($14): The Two Lands Shiraz delivers the sort of value that was a huge reason Aussie wines first gained a toe-hold in America. This vintage shows ripe blackberry fruit with good balance and firm tannins. It was a platinum award-winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge  International Wine and Spirits Competition.
91 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

19 Crimes, Australia (Australia) 2012 ($13, TWE Imports): The story line this winery is pushing involves a variety of crimes--19, to be exact--committed by British “rogues” who were sentenced to live in colonial Australia rather than be put to death. The wine itself, a Shiraz-based blend, is dark, plump and soft, and is relatively low in alcohol (13%). It has the pronounced flavors of a mixed-berry pie, and is almost as sweet.
88 Marguerite Thomas Feb 5, 2013

Dandelion, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz Lionheart of the Barossa 2014 ($25): A Shiraz with everything in spades.  It's loaded with ripe black fruit, jazzy spice and savory notes that linger in very satisfying fashion.  If you like bold Shiraz that doesn't go over the top, look no further.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Mar 29, 2016

Chateau Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Noble Baron" 2008 ($50, Excelsior Wine & Spirits):  Chateau Tanunda has a long history in Australia’s Barossa Valley.  Under its current ownership, the winery and vineyards have been refurbished and the wines are back in the run for top-end Barossa reds.  Noble Baron Cabernet is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz that was aged in French oak for 18 months.  The color is a very deep black-ruby while the nose shows lots of ripe fruit with licorice back notes.  Full tannins support ample fruit with berry and mocha notes.  The wine finishes with good length and 14.5% alcohol.  This is a rich muscular wine with a little heat. It shows more complexity and promise than the Noble Baron Shiraz.  91 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 26, 2011

Hewitson, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz "Ned & Henry's" 2004 ($20, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): This one's a baby at this stage, but a baby with great potential! The nose is an inviting mix of raspberry and spice, but it's the texture on the palate, the sweet tannins, that make this wine magic in the mouth. Not the muscular, blockbuster Shiraz you might expect from the Barossa, but that's hardly an indictment of this yummy offering from Hewitson. 91 Robert Whitley Jan 3, 2006

Chateau Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "Noble Baron" 2008 ($50, Excelsior Wine & Spirits):  The companion to the Noble Baron Cabernet is this juicy and concentrated Barossa Shiraz.  Aged in French oak for 24 months, it has a very deep black-ruby color, toasted oak, spice and subtle berry aromatics.  The flavors are  textured, with dark fruits and anise notes, 14.5% alcohol and good length.  It’s powerful, concentrated and a little hot in the finish, but this Noble Baron Shiraz will not disappoint those who like their Shiraz big and gutsy.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 26, 2011

Hewitson, Barossa Valley (Australia) Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre "Miss Harry" 2004 ($20, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): This beautifully perfumed Rhone blend shows loads of sweet red fruit and spice in a delicate package that runs contrary to what is expected of a red wine from the Barossa. Built for early consumption, this is a lovely wine for drinking now or over the next few years. 89 Robert Whitley Jan 3, 2006

Cupcake Vineyards, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz 2008 ($14, Underdog Wine Merchants):  This is the money grape in the Barossa, so the better wines can be quite expensive. Cupcake offers a classic example of Barossa Shiraz, ripe and smooth, exhibiting aromas of blueberry and blackberry jam, with a nuance of mint and spice, at an affordable price. The perfect red for the tailgate party this fall. Bring on the burgers and brats! 88 Robert Whitley Oct 12, 2010

Rolling, Central Ranges (Australia) Cabernet/Merlot 2005 ($10, Cumulus Wines Inc.): The Australian variation on the Cab/Merlot blend has always been a favorite and this rendition is no exception.  Deep and chewy, the flavors and aromatics are black cherry and cedar with just a hint of herbs.  The wine is ripe and textured with firm but soft tannins and good length; a very fresh, fruit-forward wine at a good price. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Rolling, Central Ranges (Australia) Shiraz 2005 ($10, Cumulus Wines Inc.): The beauty of this Shiraz is the lifted, bright raspberry aromas and flavors, supported by firm but not obtrusive tannins.  It has good structure, fruit, and length, nicely tied up into a pleasing package.  This value Shiraz is fruity and straightforward, with ample tannins and a balanced, but not hot, finish. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Wild Oats, Central Ranges (Australia) Shiraz 2012 ($15, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): Spicy Shiraz!  Here's a nice blend of mint, pepper, blackberry and black cherry, with a firm grip and a medium long, well integrated finish that's ready for grilled meats -- I'm thinking gourmet burgers. 
88 Rich Cook Dec 15, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "St. Andrews", Single Vineyard 2016 ($80):  Based on its dark, dense appearance alone, I was all buckled up for a wild ride with this wine, but what results is actually an extremely civilized experience at a dizzyingly high level of quality.  The intense berry fruit aromas and flavors are edged with accents of spices, toast, eucalyptus and wild thyme…and all of these sensory signals remain balanced and evident across the entirely of the sensory experience provided by the wine, including an extremely long finish.  There’s little doubt that a high proportion of the juice here was from low yielding old vines, and based on that as well as the wine’s completely compelling performance, this is actually a very strong value even at $80.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.  
96 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2019

Annie's Lane, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2002 ($15, Beringer Blass): Nose suggests raspberry and blackberry fruit, vanilla and chocolate. Fairly full-bodied and very fruity, with firm tannin in the rear palate, and very good balance between the tannin and fruitiness; dense texture and blackberry flavor. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 22, 2005

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley & Coonawarra (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Jaraman" 2014 ($22): I like a wine that lets you know where its from on the nose alone, and you get a bright and sunny "G'Day" out of this bottling -- lively mint and menthol blended beautifully with blackberry, black cherry and spice, with a lip smacking finish.  Well Done!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
93 Rich Cook Apr 4, 2017

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley / McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz "Jaraman" 2015 ($30): I reviewed this wine in February of this year, and I'd say some bottle rest has improved the wine from the 91 point score I assigned it then. The mint and menthol have integrated nicely, allowing the rich fruit a little more of the stage.  Time… never underestimate its power.  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2017 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
93 Rich Cook Sep 26, 2017

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley / McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz “Jaraman” 2015 ($30): A very solid expression of Shiraz, starting out with aromas of fresh mint, menthol and black cherry in front of a backdrop of leaf and olive.  The palate is bold and well integrated, delivering the nose elements and bringing the fruit center stage.  Moderate grip carries the fruit through the finish while keeping the other elements in play.  Nicely complex Shiraz at this price point.
91 Rich Cook Feb 14, 2017

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley / McLaren Valley (Australia) Shiraz "Jaraman" 2017 ($32):  A blissful wedding of two valleys, accenting the best of both.  Tarry black fruit notes, pepper and menthol notes are seamlessly integrated and ride a wave of popping acidity through a blooming finish.  Lamb or other red meats are the way to go pairing-wise.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Monterey International Wine Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Mar 12, 2019

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley + Coonawarra (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Jaraman" 2016 ($32):  It seems like I write about wines from this enterprise an awful lot, and since I don’t write about wines that I don’t recommend, that’s a good thing.  They always deliver the goods, across the price spectrum.  This nicely priced Cabernet shows its origins with style, delivering blackberry, gentle menthol, pepper and brown spice, bright acidity and a blooming finish where everything dances together beautifully.   A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.   
94 Rich Cook Jun 11, 2019

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley and McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz "Jaraman" 2021 ($32):  Here is a bold Shiraz that awaits your best lamb preparation – it will work from rack to shank to lollipops.  Its well folded menthol and mint notes complement lively black fruit and bright brown spice in a plush yet structured package.  The finish is already fully integrated, but there is some upside to aging this for a few years as well.  I can’t say enough good things about this producer.       
95 Rich Cook Mar 28, 2023

Katnook Estate, Coonawarra (Australia) Shiraz 2001 ($22, Freixenet): Not your over-the-top Barossa Valley Shiraz, Katnook's comes from cooler Coonawarra and shows plum and spice, intertwined with white pepper. It's an elegantly styled Shiraz with great charm. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005

Monterra, Fleurie (Australia) Nero D'Avila 2016 ($20): Nero D'Avola is finding new homes outside of Italy, and this unexpected locale shows itself suitable, showing a light bodied, full flavored expression that delights with red and blue fruit, soft spice and mild pepper.  The blossoming finish is fully integrated and lingers long.  You can expect to see more of this grape in marine influenced climates worldwide thanks to this bottling.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
93 Rich Cook Apr 11, 2017

Zonte’s Footstep, Fleurieu (Australia) Shiraz - Cabernet “Super Trooper” 2018 ($25):  This 60% / 40% blend of Shiraz and Cabernet from South Australia’s Fleurieu Peninsula shows lots of concentrated, deeply flavored fruit — entirely as expected.  A bit less expected is a certain “stately” character to the wine, as the Cabernet tones down the exuberance of the Shiraz just enough to broaden the wine’s popular appeal and versatility at the table.  Both red and black fruit tones are evident, and there’s enough acidity to keep this fresh despite its concentration.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition.      
93 Michael Franz Jun 29, 2021

Zonte's Footstep, Fleurieu Peninsula (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 'Avalon Tree' 2014 ($25):  Showing impressive weight and density, this modestly priced cabernet from Zonte's Footstep is a throwback to the days when Australia first entered the U.S. market with wines that punched well above their weight. Loaded with layers of ripe blackberry, boysenberry and currant fruit and a touch of oak spice, it has power without sacrificing elegance and at the price it's a steal. A platinum award-winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

Zonte's Footstep, Langhorne Creek (Australia) Malbec “Violet Beauregard” 2017 ($27):  The fun side of Malbec is on full display here, with plush fruit up front and a firm acid pop at the end, encapsulating ripe cherry and spice and giving the finish a nice push of flavor.  A cocktail glass or a pairing for grilled meats of all kinds.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Oct 2, 2018

Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series 2014 ($20, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): A fresh, lively Cabernet that's proud of its terroir, showing plush black fruit, dried herbs, mild earth and soft brown spice. Firm grip suggests a big roast or lamb chops as a food pairing.  It should be fairly easy to find, and it's priced well below its quality level. Well done!
91 Rich Cook Apr 12, 2016

Ring Bolt, Margaret River (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($18, Negociants USA): Deep and dark, with classic varietal flavors and just the right amount of oak to add interest without intruding upon the fruit, this is a well-balanced and almost graceful Cabernet. It has the structure for more aging, and may well become more complex with a few years of cellaring.
90 Paul Lukacs Feb 19, 2013

Ring Bolt, Margaret River (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($19, Negociants USA): Australian reds sometimes get tarred with far too broad a brush.  Many are fruit-forward and fleshy, lush and opulent without any sense of finesse or elegance.  But there are plenty of wines that go in a quite different direction, being nuanced and nervy rather than brawny or muscle-bound.  Many of the best come from the Margaret River area in Western Australia, were cooler temperatures allow the grapes to ripen slowly and develop subtler, more sophisticated flavors.  This multi-layered Cabernet serves as a case in point.  There’s nothing weak or wimpy about it, but there’s also nothing heavy or cumbersome.  Instead, this is a multi-layered wine with good acidic balance, firm tannins, and genuine grace.
90 Paul Lukacs Apr 2, 2013

Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ($20, Pacific Highway Wines): Winemaker Larry Cherubino brings us good bang for the buck with this wine, which showcases black fruit and toasty oak with notes of bell pepper and stony minerality in both aroma and flavor, with a finish that brings the smoky oak forward.  Give this one a good decant and serve it with peppery beef preparations.  Additional note:  Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits donates a meal to a food-insecure person for each bottle sold under their umbrella; visit OneBottleOneMeal.com for details.
89 Rich Cook Jul 8, 2014

Hewitson, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz "The Mad Hatter" 2003 ($36, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): This was Dean Hewitson's nickname in school, where he was known for eccentric behavior. It's a new wine for Hewitson, from old vines in McLaren Vale. For this first vintage of The Mad Hatter the vines gave Hewitson a rustic, rich, intense wine with a long, almost chewable palate. It's outstanding now, but will benefit from three to five years in a decent cellar. Much upside potential and definitely a candidate to be aged. 93 Robert Whitley Jan 3, 2006

Monterra, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz 2016 ($20): A nicely priced Shiraz that shows great integration of fruit and savory character, showing blackberry, blueberry, leaf, meat and soft mint aromas and flavors.  Supple tannins provide enough grip to push the finish, where everything stays together well.  This is a great all-purpose red to have in your collection for near term drinking.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
93 Rich Cook Feb 7, 2017

Tir Na N'Og, McLaren Vale (Australia) Grenache "Old Vines" 2003 ($25, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): There is a bit of irony in the name, for proprietor and importer John Larchet named this debut vintage Tir Na N'og (land of the youth) but made the wine with grenache from "old vines", in this case more than 80 years young. It's everything anyone could want from a superb Grenache: dense sweet ripe fruit and a bit of spice. Very yummy stuff no matter what the name and a steal at the price for a most unusual wine. 92 Robert Whitley Oct 24, 2005

Yalumba, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Y Series" 2010 ($13, Negociants USA): A full-bodied but smooth and harmonious Cabernet, this wine offers plenty of flavor without ever seeming overbearing. It also is surprisingly nuanced, with hints of mint and cocoa enhancing its primary dark fruit. An excellent value.
89 Paul Lukacs Feb 12, 2013

Jacob's Creek, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2002 ($13, Pernod Ricard): This is immediately recognizable both for what it is and where it comes from. The blackberry and cassis fruit notes are clear as a bell, and they are backed with eucalyptus scents and spicy oak that trumpet Aussie origins. A fine wine and a very good value. 87 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2005

Wakefield, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 'Promised Land' 2014 ($13):  Promised Land is Wakefield's entry level shiraz and it recalls those heady days when Aussie wine producers flooded the U.S. wine market with inexpensive reds that were both charming and delicious. This may not be the best shiraz you've ever tasted, but it's just what the doctor ordered for those football weekend tailgate parties or a barbecue on the back patio. It shows a hint of minty eucalyptus and a core of blueberry and blackberry fruit, with modest tannins and excellent balance.
85 Robert Whitley Oct 11, 2016

Jacob's Creek, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Merlot "Classic" 2016 ($8): It's pretty hard to find this kind of complexity and overall quality at this price.  Jacob's Creek often hits the mark, and this Merlot delivers the goods in the form of bright cherry, vanilla, tobacco leaf and spice, with supple grip and an integrated finish that is quite food friendly.  This is the kind of wine that could start a profitable wine program in a small restaurant. A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
93 Rich Cook Jun 6, 2017

Nugan Estate, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2003 ($12, Southern Starz): This baby packs a punch. Combining very vivid, intense raspberry fruit with a wicked wallop of spicy oak, this wine fulfills every stereotype of Australian Shiraz and then some. Although it pushes its luck at every point from the first whiff to the final notes of the finish, it never turns hard or hot or harsh, and for those who love pairing powerful wines with robust foods, this is a stunner at a great price. 90 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Marquis Phillips, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($15, The Grateful Palate): This is a significantly better wine than the 2004 Marquis Phillips Shiraz, with the ripeness showing more moderation at 14.5% and Cabernet's more angular style wearing the ripe style more harmoniously and convincingly. Dark berry fruit is very ripe and expressive, but there's also some brightness and fresh lift here, and restrained oak keeps the delicious fruit notes in the driver's seat. 89 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Marquis Phillips, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($15, The Grateful Palate): I can't really approve of a bottling that is overwhelmingly ripe and alcoholic (15.5%) in intellectual terms, but I found it difficult to dislike this wine. It is phenomenally soft and rounded, with a juicy, faintly sweet character that is certainly traceable to the high alcohol level. Berry fruit flavors are exceedingly ripe but not raisiny, and there's no notable heat in the finish. If your physician cuts you down to a glass per day, this should be considered seriously. 87 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Jacob's Creek, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($8, Pernod Ricard): Better red than this for $8? My guess is: fat chance. Not gonna happen. This wine has real guts and depth of flavor, and even more admirable is the fact that it isn't all juked up with cheap oak chips and vanilla. Straightforward blackberry fruit is what this wine is all about, and there is lots of it, with gutsy tannins that are nevertheless ripe and soft. Just when I start thinking that Chile and Argentina and southern Spain are drawing even with the Aussies in the budget sweepstakes, I run into something like this that gives me pause. 85 Michael Franz Apr 18, 2006

Capel Vale, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz "Sheldrake" 2002 ($15, multiple distributors): Two thirds of the fruit comes from Pemberton, which gives this a lovely black pepper character, while the third that comes from the warmer Geographe subregion supplies ripeness and richness. The overall effect is a lovely balance of plums and pepper. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Innocent Bystander, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Noir 2018 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  This wine is still a bit tight immediately upon opening, but that’s not surprising in light of the fact the fruit was picked less than 18 months ago, and all of its structural components and organoleptic aspects portend very positive development over the next 5+ years.  For those who don’t have either the patience or the cellaring capacity for a wait of such duration, let me assure you that that this becomes very attractively expressive with a vigorous decanting and a short wait before enjoying it with a meal.  There’s some spicy oak up top on the bouquet, underlain with fruit notes of red and black cherry as well as some dark berry notes.  Notable tannin provides grip and equally notable acidity provides freshness.  Fairly assertive for Pinot but never heavy, this is serious wine at an attractive price, and very useful reminder for anyone who has forgotten how good Aussie Pinot can be.  
91 Michael Franz Jul 9, 2019

Rosé:

Dandelion, Barossa (Australia) Fairytale of the Barossa Rosé 2015 ($25): This is the best vintage of this bottling from Dandelion to date.  Bright strawberry, ripe watermelon, white pepper and citrus really pop in a lively, refreshing mouthful that finishes long and complex.  My kind of summer quaffer!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Mar 29, 2016

Sparkling:

Taltarni, Australia (Australia) "Brut Tache" NV ($22): Australia is a major wine region not generally known for its sparkling wines.  A few producers, like Taltarni, have been working for years to change that perception by drawing Chardonnay and Pinot from Victoria and Tasmania, the two cool-climate regions of Australia known for those varieties.  This is a traditional brut blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, made using classic methods.  The color is a lovely pale salmon-pink magnified by a healthy full mousse that follows through to the palate.  It has a delightful floral aroma with hints of hard candy, balanced by bracing acidity. The finish is long, clean and fruity.  Altogether, Brut Tache is a delightful wine at an affordable price. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 1, 2008

White:

Penfolds, Adelaide (Australia) Riesling "Thomas Hyland" 2011 ($13, TWE Imports): A dry, almost austere Riesling, but one that is marked by a plethora of subtle secondary flavors that support and enhance its apple-scented primary fruit. This sort of complexity on the palate usually costs much more, so the wine is an excellent bargain. And given its crisp acidity, it should age gracefully for at least a few years, maybe significantly more. Consider buying it by the case.
92 Paul Lukacs Jan 22, 2013

Zonte's Footstep, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Pinot Grigio “Doctoressa di Lago” 2014 ($16): You don't hear much about Italian varieties in the Australian wine world, but Zonte's Footstep winemaker Ben Riggs is quietly establishing a new home for Pinot Grigio and other Italian grapes.  This bottling is very attractive on the nose, showing bright lemon, lime, white flowers and stony minerality.  Racy acidity without any sharp edges helps the aromas come alive as flavors in your mouth, adding a touch of apple to this creamy yet cleansing wine.  Oysters or fresh green salads will be elevated with this as a pairing.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 San Diego International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Jan 20, 2015

Zonte's Footstep, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc “Excalibur” 2014 ($14): This is fresh and flowery crisp white wine that delivers melon, lemon, light grass and herb notes, with a soft entry and a refreshing acid kick at the end that gets you salivating for more.  There's a cleansing mineral note in the finish, but it doesn't cover the mix of flavors.  Very well made at this price point.  Best Sauvignon Blanc, and a Gold Award winner at the 2015 Monterey International Wine Competition.
91 Rich Cook Mar 31, 2015

Penfolds, Australia () Chardonnay “Yattarna” 2012 ($130): This complex Chardonnay (sourced from Derwent and Coal Valleys in Tasmania and the Henry in Victoria) is the vinous equivalent of a stained glass window, intricate, nuanced, and densely packed with a brooding sense of mystery balanced by rays of clarity shining through.  The fruit is pure and fresh, the texture creamy without feeling heavy, and flavors that linger on and on.  You can drink it now, or hold onto it for several years if you have more willpower than I do.
93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 4, 2014

Evans & Tate, Australia () Chardonnay "Bright As Day" 2015 ($10, McWilliams Wines):  Lively quince, citrus and bright acidity make this a Chardonnay that refreshes and leaves you salivating for more.  A poolside sipper at a nice price.  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
92 Rich Cook Jun 12, 2018

Jacob’s Creek, Australia () Pinot Grigio "Classic" 2022 ($12, Pernod Ricard):  I taste well over 100 Italian releases of Pinot Grigio each year (for a consulting project) that are perched on the “everyday pricing” tier, and though this wine’s place of origin is simply “Australia,” it surpasses roughly 85% of its Italian counterparts.  Medium-bodied on the lighter end of that category, with vivid flavors of orchard fruits with citrus edging and excellent balance between acidity and a fruity impression of sweetness, this gets the balance just right.  It doesn’t show the mineral tinges of the few examples from Italy that are arguably superior, but its proportionality will make it enduringly pleasurable to drink.        
91 Michael Franz Jun 27, 2023

Yellow Tail, Australia () Pinot Grigio “Casella” 2015 ($8, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): Yellow Tail has long filled this slot at the market, and to do so with a quaffable, just off dry, crisp and bright summer white maintains its valuable niche.  You'll find it at bargain basement prices, and it's a fun poolside glass.  No argument here!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
90 Rich Cook Apr 11, 2017

Brokenwood Wines, Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon “Cricket Pitch” 2008 ($21, Old Bridge Cellars):  A blend of grapes from various regions in Australia, this blend, a very popular one Down Under, provides satisfying aperitif sipping.  Sweeter and more succulent than many Sauvignon/ Semillon blends, it tastes of ripe summer stone fruits, but has sufficient acidity and structure to stay balanced and focused. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 2, 2010

Nine Stones, Australia (Australia) Viognier “Hilltops” 2010 ($13, Vineyard Brands):  A tasty wine, with bright fruit flavors and a firm finish, this Viognier displays little varietal character.  There is no hint of anything floral in the bouquet, and the wine is fairly light on the palate.  That’s fine if what you want is an attractive, easy to drink white for summer sipping.  It’s a bit of a problem, though, if you want Viognier. 87 Paul Lukacs Jul 3, 2012

Jacob's Creek, Barossa (Australia) Riesling Steingarten Vineyard 2002 ($30, Pernod Ricard): This is a new wine for the U.S. market, but a classic in Australia, where Orlando wines--owners of the Jacob's Creek brand--has produced Riesling from the Steingarten vineyard for about five decades. The vineyard, on the western edge of the Barossa ranges, makes a fairly hefty Riesling that benefits from bottle age. This 2002 is fully dry and medium-bodied, with broad, minerally aromas and flavors and a slight petrol character indicating some initial development. It clearly has the concentration and the acidic spine to develop beautifully with age, as older vintages of this wine in fact have done. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Oct 11, 2005

Hewitson, Barossa Valley (Australia) Muscadel "Mermaids" 2005 ($15, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): It's not often you find a dry muscadel anywhere, let alone in the new world. Albeit a novelty, this wine is fresh, clean and simple, offering refreshing acidity and straightforward lime citrus and yellow fruit flavors. It's a beautiful aperitif and well worth the modest price. Produced from 70-year-old dry farmed vines. 87 Robert Whitley Jan 3, 2006

Rolling, Central Ranges (Australia) Chardonnay 2006 ($10, Cumulus Wines Inc.): Tank fermented with just a hint of oak to boost the fruit, it has scents of white peach and citrus.  The crisp flavors show moderately intense fruit, supported by mouth-watering citrus acidity.  This is a minimal-oak style of Chardonnay that is the antithesis of the full-stop, oaky style. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Rolling, Central Ranges (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2006 ($10, Cumulus Wines Inc.): Tank fermented to amply display the primary fruit flavors of both varieties.  The nose is marked by scents of citrus blossoms with a back note of ripe melons.  The flavors are a crisp and fruity blend of citrus and melons, with good length and structure.  More floral than herbal, it's a pleasant quaffing wine. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Polish Hill 2014 ($49): Jeffrey Grosset makes an array of fabulous Rieslings.  Despite the impression -- erroneous, as it turns out -- that Australia falls into the “warm weather” category for winemaking, the Clare Valley is home to exceptional Riesling. Jeffrey Grosset told me that they have such ideal conditions there for that grape that they have not needed to acidity the wines for the last 14 vintages since they transformed the vineyard to organic farming.  The Grosset Polish Hill Riesling has an appealing firmness amplified and reinforced by a cutting lime-like acidity.  This is a laser-like Riesling without a hint of sweetness. A versatile wine, it would complement everything from spicy Asian food to a refined broiled fish in a delicate cream sauce.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2016

Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Springvale 2014 ($34): Jeffrey Grosset describes his 2014 Springvale Riesling as a “soft rock” compared to the Polish Hill Riesling, which he characterizes as a “hard rock.”  It’s an apt comparison.  The Springvale Riesling is more floral and slightly richer, but retains the wonderful cutting dry edginess characteristic of Grosset’s wines.  It’s like choosing between your children, so my advice is to buy both and compare them yourself.  They will remain fresh and vibrant even after being opened for a few days if stored in a cold refrigerator.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2016

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley + Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Chardonnay "Jaraman" 2016 ($25):  Rich and voluptuous on the palate, yet bright and edgy, this is a beautifully structured Chardonnay from two of South Australia’s cooler climates.  Showing complex notes of pear, apple and lemon oil, this dynamic chardonnay finishes on a spicy note. 
93 Robert Whitley Oct 23, 2018

Penley Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia) Chardonnay “Aradia” 2010 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Those who still believe that all Australian Chardonnays are over ripe fruit bombs will be stunned by this dazzling wine.  Bright apple-like nuances tingle the palate in this restrained style of Chardonnay.  You’re left with a zesty citrus tang in the finish.  This wine’s cutting edge is a delightful match for grilled fish drizzled with olive oil.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013

Brokenwood, Cowra and King Valley (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc - Semillon Cricket Pitch Vineyard 2008 ($21, Old Bridge Cellars): Most of the Sauvignon Blanc in this tasty blend comes from King Valley in Victoria state, while the remainder was sourced from Umpire’s Decision Vineyard (don’t you just love that name?) in the Cowra Region of New South Wales. About 5% of this wine was fermented in barrel.  Nearly colorless, the nose is forward, aromatic and grassy, with light citrus peel back notes.  Crisp and clean, with great texture and fruit, citrusy acidity and length.  This is a pleasurable wine with oysters, clams and grilled fish and for those who speak Australian, you might try and “…pop a bottle into the esky on the way to the ‘G.’” 89 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 11, 2009

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) "Enchanted Garden of the Eden Valley" 2016 ($28): This is one of two fabulous Rieslings from Dandelion, and while this is the less expensive of the two, it's a stunning wine.  Sweetly floral on the nose, it also shows aromas of wet stone lime, leading you to expect a little sugar on the palate.  Then the acid hits your tongue and lights up the bone-dry character with flavors of lime, granite and spice.  Amazing age-worthy Riesling is becoming an Eden Valley signature thanks to Dandelion. A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Feb 7, 2017

Dandelion, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling Wonderland of the Eden Valley 2015 ($55): Age-worthy Riesling isn't just from Germany anymore.  I've tasted successive successful vintages of this wine, and they're all stuffed with the potential to go long.  Lively pear and dry stone-fruit flavors ride a wave of scouring acidity and are complemented by a racy mineral streak that comes forward in the cleansing finish.  More, please!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Mar 29, 2016

Peter Lehmann, Eden Valley (South Australia) Dry Riesling 2009 ($17, Hess):

 On a trip to South Australia several years ago, I had the distinct pleasure to visit the Peter Lehmann winery and taste older vintages of Riesling. It was a revelation at a time when I was only just becoming aware of Australia's success with this noble white grape, most often associated with Germany and the Alsace region of France -- which at various times in history has been a part of Germany. What I learned from the older vintages of Lehmann Riesling was that certain areas of Australia can produce Riesling for the ages, wines that improve over 10, 15 even 20 years in the bottle. Often, young Riesling built for the long haul is not altogether pleasant upon release, but I have found in my experience that Aussie Riesling, grown primarily in the Eden and Clare valleys, can do both. Such is the case with the 2009 Eden Valley Dry Riesling from Lehmann. The new release offers succulent aromas of lemon oil and tart lime, with a subtle thread of minerality and juicy acidity. Over time, if this Riesling tracks the way other Lehmann Rieslings have, a bit of honey and brioche will emerge and the minerality will intensify on the nose. My suggestion is buy a few bottles for drinking now as well as a few bottles for drinking later. In either case, you can expect the Lehmann Riesling to hit a home run every time.

Penfolds, Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling 'Bin 51' 2009 ($20, FWE Imports):  A good example of the bone-dry style of Australian Riesling, this is very much a food wine, its taut acidity needing something to play off of in order not to seem off-putting.  When drunk with the right food partner, though, it should prove delicious, and may well seem to merit a higher score.  Try it with fresh shellfish or other seafood dishes, particularly those without heavy cream or butter sauces. 88 Paul Lukacs Dec 14, 2010

Zonte's Footstep, Fleurieu (South Australia) Vermentino “Lady Marmalade” 2018 ($22):  This is an excellent Vermentino that could at least hold its own with the finest renditions from Sardinia, Liguria or the coast of Tuscany.  Medium-bodied, with fruit recalling figs and apricots, it shows fleshy texture in the mid-palate but nicely grippy texture in the finish.  There’s just a hint of pleasant walnut skin bitterness in the finish, which nicely offsets the rich opening flavors.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.  
93 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2019

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Chardonnay 2008 ($15, Old Bridge Cellars):  Wines from Western Australia typically show more restraint compared to those from other parts of the country because the cooling influences of the Indian and Southern Oceans mean the grapes achieve slower, more balanced ripeness.  This delectable Chardonnay supports that generalization with a lovely combination of toastiness and subtle creamy notes that sit atop a haunting flintiness.  Citrus notes in the finish add to its liveliness.  A terrific buy. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 13, 2011

Robert Oatley, Great Southern (Australia) Riesling 2013 ($17, Pacific Highway Wines): A very fresh dry Riesling from an up-and-coming region.  It's bone dry, with mixed citrus and stony mineral driving the palate.  A solid aperitif style that will pair nicely with a wide range of appetizers.  Try it where you might normally serve a dry sparkler.
89 Rich Cook Jun 3, 2014

Chestnut Grove, Manjimup (Australia) Verdelho Estate 2021 ($20):  Lively lanolin is the calling card on the nose of Chestnut Grove's 2021 Verdelho, with nectarine and soft lemon accents.  All comes alive on the palate, with a fine tuned balance of viscosity and acidity, finishing long with a lemon accent.  Manjimup, Western Australia is a new appellation to me, and based on this wine further investigation is required.    
91 Rich Cook Sep 13, 2022

Cherubino, Margaret River (Australia) Chardonnay 2012 ($36, Middleton Family Wines): Margaret River Chardonnay tends toward Chablis in style, with crisp minerality, prominent acidity and mild oak use bringing out a flinty character rather than buttery notes.  This is a fine example of the region, with bright lemon crème, quince, bay leaf, wet stone, flint and a hint of apple in both aroma and flavor.  This is a food wine -- scallops or oysters are the ticket.  Delicious!
93 Rich Cook May 5, 2015

Moss Wood, Margaret River (Australia) Chardonnay 2010 ($68, Epicurean Wines): This celebratory Chardonnay offers up layers of perfume that will seduce you before the wine has even touched your lips.  With its curvaceous, fleshy texture and tiers of round, ripe flavors it settles comfortably against the palate, then finishes with a luminous sweep that will keep you coming back for more.  It’s ready to drink right now, but could also be cellared for a couple of years.
91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 8, 2013

Moss Wood, Margaret River (Australia) Semillon 2013 ($42, Epicurean Wines): Plush on the palate yet also strikingly refreshing, this Semillon has bright apple and pear elements with flashes of citrusy flavors.  Among the wine’s many attractions are floral and straw aromatic notes plus a fairly long and vivacious finish.  To be enjoyed as an aperitif or with a light meal. 91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 8, 2013

Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($19): Graceful and dynamic, this beautifully balanced wine hits the vinous sweet spot where fruitiness, acidity and alcohol unite in perfect harmony.  Like the music produced by skilled orchestral players, each individual note in this wine’s complex symphony of fragrance and flavor fuses into a happy ensemble designed to bring pleasure to the appreciative palate.
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 5, 2013

Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Australia) Chardonnay 2013 ($17): Peaches and spice are in the forefront in this delicious Chardonnay, with lemon and stony minerality on the backline in both aroma and flavor.   The oak here serves to tame the vibrant acidity and provide soft spice notes rather than taking over the wine.  If you're into California Chardonnay but need more acidity to pair with your meal, this will fit the bill nicely.
90 Rich Cook Jun 3, 2014

Jindalee, Murray Darling (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($8, Frederick Wildman & Sons): This Aussie white is a perfect summer quaffer at a low, low price -- and lower, still, if you shop carefully. I would have rated it higher, but found the acid burn on the back palate a bit too harsh. Otherwise the bright aromas of passion fruit, gooseberry and citrus were quite appealing and the wine an overall good buy. 80 Robert Whitley Mar 28, 2006

Stonehaven, South Australia (Australia) Riesling "Winemaker's Selection" 2004 ($11, Excelsior): A lovely wine and an exceptional bargain, this classic Aussie Riesling was crafted by Susanne Bell with a premium on purity of fruit. Her objective was clearly accomplished, as this features vivid notes of citrus fruit and green apples, accented by light mineral nuances and culminating in a crisp, dry finish. Supremely versatile with food, this will also serve very nicely as a simple sipping wine. 90 Michael Franz Jul 22, 2005

Oomoo, South Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2014 ($15): Oomoo is part of the Hardys empire in South Australia and relatively new to the U.S. market. This is an appealing Chardonnay in that it is clean, crisp and fresh, with notes of green apple and pear and a fair amount of richness and weight on the palate. Serve it with light appetizers and pastas, or simple grilled fish or shrimp. 87 Robert Whitley Oct 27, 2015

McWilliams, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Riesling "Hanwood Estate" 2005 ($12, McWilliams Hanwood Estate): I think this is a very good wine and a very good deal, but before addressing its admirable characteristics I must air a gripe. The back label indicates that "McWilliams Hanwood Estate wines are crafted using premium grapes from some of South Eastern Australia's most renowned wine regions...." This bugs me because the use of the word "Estate" in a proprietary designation is utterly inappropriate, as it suggests a single vineyard site or grape source, which is quite clearly not the foundation for this wine. Juice this good need not fly false colors, and Gallo, the actual importer, should reconsider its nomenclature. With that said, I'm happy to report that the wine is delicious, showing lovely ripe apple fruit with very refreshing, tangy acidity. Essentially dry but not tart, this can work wonders with all sorts of foods from shellfish to light finfish dishes to pastas with olive oil-based preparations to chicken dishes. 88 Michael Franz Apr 18, 2006

McWilliam's, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2004 ($11, McWilliam's Hanwood Estate): The color is a brilliant light gold. On the nose, green apple and roasted nuts blend nicely with citrus peel accents. The medium flavors are well balanced with medium fruit and oak, finishing with a bright citrus tang. This is a very nice example of Australian multi-regional blending. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 18, 2006

Frankland Estate, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling Poison Hill Vineyard 2015 ($40, Quintessential):   I still remember my low expectations were the first time I tasted an Australian Riesling decades ago.  How could a hot climate produce a racy Riesling?  Well, it most certainly can.  Firstly, the whole continent is not hot, especially if the vineyards are planted in the hills or near ocean influences.  Now, my expectations are that Australian Riesling, like this one, should be racy.  Dry, cutting and long, there’s an alluring floral aspect to the wine.  This edgy wine has good weight, despite only a 12% stated alcohol, and is perfect for flavorful Asian fare, sushi, or coq au Riesling.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2018

Adelaide Hills:

Red:

Heirloom Vineyards, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Syrah 2021 ($40):  Yes, this bottle does say “Syrah” on the label instead of “Shiraz” as usual in Australia, and it is appropriate here for stylistic reasons.  The regional tell here is notable from the relatively cool Adelaide Hills, with a focus is on the savory side of the grape variety, with black and blue berry fruit and a little tar and pepper joining in.  Beautifully executed wine.            
94 Rich Cook Jul 11, 2023

Mr. Riggs, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Montepuliano d'Adelaide Hills 2014 ($24): The Montepulciano grape is perhaps the most misunderstood wine grape in the world. Montepulciano the wine is often mistaken for the red wine from the Tuscan village of Montepulciano, which is actually made from sangiovese. Montepulciano the wine is actually from a region of the Adriatic coast of Italy, Abruzzo. Unless it isn't. This wine is made from the Montepulciano grape but from vineyards in Australia's Adelaide Hills. Hence the touch of eucalyptus on the nose, which you won't find in reds from Abruzzo. If you are now completely confused, this is all you need to know. It is rich and delicious, an exquisite expression of this native Italian grape variety. A platinum award-winner at the San Diego International Wine Challenge.
94 Robert Whitley May 31, 2016

Elysian Springs, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Syrah “Spring Lamb” 2019 ($30):  Before any sensitive readers have a conniption about the proprietary name, “Spring Lamb,” that’s not a menu offering but, rather, a designation in honor of the sheep and lambs that keep the weeds down between the vine rows at this property.  The wine is bright and fresh and wonderfully food-friendly, all because of excellent acidity that’s no doubt explained by the relatively cool growing conditions in the Adelaide Hills appellation.  Although this shows all the flavor impact that one expects from an Aussie Shiraz, it is much lighter on its feet and much less thick and “muddy” than the stereotypical rendition, which probably explains calling it “Syrah” rather than Shiraz.”  Bright blackberries are what this is all about, with modest wood that doesn’t get in the way of any of the sheer deliciousness of the fruit.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2022 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.      
93 Michael Franz Feb 8, 2022

Murdoch Hill, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Red Blend 2021 ($19, Legend Imports):  This 2021 red blend from Murdoch Hill is a mix of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 14% Sangiovese, and 11% Shiraz from the Oakbank and Lenswood vineyards in the Adelaide Hills, respectively.  It offers an alluring melding of red currant, red cherry, fresh raspberry, strawberry, plum, and black pepper.  It perfectly toes the line between rustic and polished and is underlain with fine-grained tannins and a zip of refreshing acidity.      
93 Miranda Franco Sep 19, 2023

Elysian Springs, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Shiraz “Spring Lamb” 2016 ($27): The name implies a pairing, and it will certainly work.  Lots of mint and savory character ride atop high-toned red fruit, and there's plenty of acid to extend the finish and cut the fat of the pairing.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
91 Rich Cook Apr 4, 2017

The Lane, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Shiraz "Block 5" 2013 ($19, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): This is a great value in an Aussie Shiraz.  It shows minimal oak, a beautiful mix of deep berry fruit and savory meaty character.  It's mild on the mint and white pepper, but has enough to let you know where it's from. It's long and leafy on the finish, with a pleasant tarry note adding interest. A nice value at this price, especially when you factor in what viticulturist Marty Edwards calls a "slippery" feel.  Delicious!
90 Rich Cook Sep 8, 2015

Vintage Longbottom, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Syrah "H" 2020 ($30, Quintessential Wines):  Bright menthol over rich berry fruit open the proceedings here, leaving no doubt that you are now Down Under.  It's quite approachable now with its bright mid palate, supple texture and lively acidity that extends the finish.  Beef or lamb will play well here, and a slight chill wouldn't be out of line.    
90 Rich Cook Feb 15, 2022

Vintage Longbottom, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Syrah "H" 2019 ($30, Quintessential Wines):  It’s not often that an Australian wine opts for the “Syrah” moniker over the more used “Shiraz,” and this bottling makes me curious whether the choice was made as pure market differentiation, or if the softer character made it stand out from the rest of the lineup.  Black and blue fruit character is carried by chalky tannins, and though it’s moderately extracted, it’s not shy on flavor.  There’s just a hint of the signature menthol, and stylistically, everything is working.  Serve this where you might be thinking Grenache but want a little more weight.     
90 Rich Cook Sep 7, 2021

Wakefield, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Pinot Noir 2015 ($17, AW Direct): Drinkable Pinot Noir at this price should get your attention. Add to that a unique flavor profile that includes bright eucalyptus that's complementary to the strawberry and cherry fruit, and a mild touch of earthy minerality, and you've got a wallet friendly wine that will pair nicely with herb rubbed chicken or fish.  The finish lingers long, and the acidity keeps things fresh.
89 Rich Cook Jan 5, 2016

Rosé:

Elysian Springs, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Pinot Rosé "Apple Cart" 2020 ($30): This beauty from Elysian Springs is most likely one of the more flavorful dry Rosé wines you will come across.  Showing intense strawberry and cherry aroma, and a hint of citrus.  With exceptional depth and length, it is crisp and refreshing,   A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
95 Robert Whitley Sep 15, 2020

White:

Heirloom Vineyards, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Chardonnay "Gold Label" 2017 ($60):   Heirloom's Gold Label Chardonnay strives to achieve the rare combination of richness and structure that characterize white Burgundy and largely succeeds.  This vintage has depth without weight, remarkable elegance and impressive length on the palate.  The wood notes lend a touch of spice but don't dominate.  While good now, this is a Chardonnay that would actually benefit from additional cellar age.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
96 Robert Whitley Sep 25, 2018

Zonte's Footstep, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc "Excalibur" 2018 ($20):   Adelaide Hills is a magical spot for Sauvignon Blanc.  It's cool enough to produce Sauvignons that possess bright acidity, lovely citrus notes and firm structure, but sunny enough to develop riper aromas of melon and tropical fruit.  The Zonte's Footstep Excalibur is a richly layered, complex Sauvignon Blanc with all of those characteristics, including elegance.   A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
95 Robert Whitley Oct 2, 2018

Dandelion Vineyards, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Chardonnay “Twilight of the Adelaide Hills” 2020 ($21):  Australian Chardonnay is a bit of a secret, even though some spectacular bottlings do manage to find their way to the USA.  This wine qualifies as such, with rich lemon and tart apple delivered in bone dry age-worthy style.  Nothing tiresome here, just pure flavor riding bracing acidity.  Lots of pairing possibilities come to mind when tasting this.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.       
94 Rich Cook Jun 29, 2021

Dandelion Vineyards, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc “Wishing Clock of the Adelaide Hills” 2021 ($28):  2021 vintage – Fresh wine!  You’ll be wishing you had more of it when you reach the bottom of this crisp refresher.  Floral, peach and lemon aromas get a hint of grass and stone, and those hints join the fruit on the palate, finishing altogether zesty and mouth watering.  Beautiful.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.       
94 Rich Cook Sep 21, 2021

Heirloom Vineyards, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($25): I love running across a southern hemisphere Sauvignon Blanc that delivers real complexity without going overboard on pricing.  There's a ton of excitement here, with vibrant gooseberry, melon, soft grapefruit, mild grassiness and a bright stony mineral streak that brings it all together.  It blooms with intensity on the finish, refreshing you for the next bite or sip. Or both.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jan 19, 2016

Sidewood, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Chardonnay "Mappinga" 2017 ($35):  The cool nights in the Adelaide Hills instill freshness in the region’s white wines, and that’s the signature characteristic of this beauty from Sidewood's Mappinga range.  Fresh and clean, with crisp aromas of green apple and pear, a light touch of wood spice and a clean finish, this is a very pure example of Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
94 Robert Whitley Sep 24, 2019

Zonte's Footstep, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc "Excalibur" 2017 ($20):  Adelaide Hills shows why it's a nice home for Sauvignon Blanc in an array of styles in this wine, which presents a more subdued profile than many examples from the region.  There is a lees-stirred quality that gives a rich texture and tames the acidity slightly, yet allows the bright citrus and mild grass to speak clearly on the nose and in the mouth.  Here's to variety within variety!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jan 30, 2018

Zonte's Footstep, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Pinot Grigio 'Doctoressa di Lago' 2015 ($18):  The pinot grigio from Australia's Zonte's Footstep has been consistent over the past several vintages, taking impressive awards at major international wine competitions. The 2015 shows excellent fruit intensity, crisp acidity and a lingering finish. It is undoubtedly the finest pinot grigio produced outside of Italy. A platinum award-winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge.
93 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

The Lane, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc "Block 10" 2015 ($19, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): Here is a classy Sauvignon Blanc with no residual sugar, and no added acidity that features rich soft yellow grapefruit, gooseberry, grass, stony minerality, and nectarine aromas and flavors. It's bone dry, and has a creamy feel with a zesty finish that adds touches of lime and leaf on the end. I love the dry, crisp yet creamy character that shows a subtle hand. 91 Rich Cook Sep 8, 2015

The Lane, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Chardonnay "Block 1A" 2013 ($19, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): Chardonnay is The Lane viticulturist Marty Edwards' favorite grape to grow because you can get such a range of expression -- he says there's no excuse for making a bad Chardonnay, just a lot of styles to choose from! This one is a blend of 6 different clones, with no secondary malolactic fermentation induced.  It's very fresh on the nose, with lemon, quince, very dry and crisp, soft vanilla and spice aromas, and it delivers those on the palate crisply, with singing acidity and a long cleansing finish.  Solid, stylized Chardonnay.
90 Rich Cook Sep 8, 2015

Heirloom Vineyards, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($25): Made in a New Zealand style, this Aussie Sauvignon shows notes of gooseberry and grapefruit, stony minerality and a crisp, clean finish.  Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
Robert Whitley May 26, 2015

Barossa Valley:

Red:

Heirloom Vineyards, Barossa (South Australia) Shiraz 2016 ($40):   Nothing says Shiraz quite like Australia's Barossa Valley. This is the home of big, bold Shiraz that gets your attention with its raw power. This vintage from Heirloom has all of that and more. Beautifully structured, it is at the beginning of what promises to be a long life. It exhibits exceptional fruit purity, primarily blueberry, with loads of spice and a touch of mocha. It's definitely an Aussie bad boy, but in a good way. A Platinum award-winner at the 2018 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 96 Robert Whitley Jan 30, 2018

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz “Lionheart of the Barossa” 2018 ($28):  A rich, fruit-forward Shiraz that combines the best elements of the variety with a sense of place thrown in for good measure.  Blue and black fruits get a lift from umami notes, faint menthol scents and lively spice accents.  The supple tannins have enough grip to extend the finish with good intensity and food friendly acidity.  Great stuff!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.   
95 Rich Cook Feb 4, 2020

Zonte's Footstep, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz “Baron Von Nemesis” 2017 ($35):  A gracious Shiraz that lets you know where it comes from without slapping you in the face with overt aromas and flavors.  A subtle power and depth of flavor is very attractive, with unctuous black and blue fruit, menthol and easy brown spice in harmony from start to finish and showing great staying power.  Beautiful Barossa!   A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
95 Rich Cook Sep 25, 2018

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz “Red Queen of the Eden Valley” 2016 ($100):  Since it’s the queen of the jungle that does all the hunting work while the male lion just lays around, this is an aptly named powerhouse of a wine.  The nose pounces with full throttle black cherry, blueberry and spice, and the attack continues on the palate, where menthol and tarry notes help finish the kill.  You’ll agree, it’s a good death, and you can resurrect and play again with each glass.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Jun 18, 2019

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa (Australia) Merlot “Damsel of the Barossa” 2018 ($28):  2018 looks to be a banner vintage down under, and it’s not just about Shiraz.  This gorgeous Merlot delivers ripe black cherry fruit tempered by bright pepper and soft signature menthol notes, finishing with an integrated burst of flavors.  Pair with red meats, all the way to lamb, or medium strength cheeses will make for a fine evening.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.   
94 Rich Cook Feb 4, 2020

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz “Lionheart of the Barossa” 2017 ($28, Liberty Wines):  The heart of a lion is what’s in the glass when you pour the Lionheart of the Barossa.  From Carl Lindner’s old Barossa plantings, where some vines are over 100 years old and produce an intensity of fruit that in this example is both powerful and elegant.  Black and blue berries, a little tar, rich oak spice and a dash of proper pepper are bold and bright in this nicely reined in bottling, and this finish goes and goes.  Roast that lamb and serve it up!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Feb 12, 2019

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa (Australia) Mataro "March Hare of the Barossa" 2015 ($60, Vine Street Imports):  A lively, spicy Mataro from the land of Shiraz.  It’s beautifully ripe, with deep blackberry, tar and spice aromas and flavors that fill the nose and mouth.  The finish is very well integrated already, and there’s acidic structure to make for a long life in the bottle.  Great stuff!  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
94 Rich Cook Apr 3, 2018

Heirloom Vineyards, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz 2018 ($35):  An in-your-face, full throttle delight that shows regional character with black and blue fruit, a dash of mint, savory spice and great acidity.  Supple tannins carry it all well into the distance with great push and tension.  I would age this at least five years, eventually to serve with strong cheeses.  Bravo!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.  
94 Rich Cook Feb 4, 2020

Heirloom Vineyards, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz 2019 ($40):  This is both a terrific wine and an outstanding value.  The concentration is exceptional and the depth of fruit virtually bottomless, yet fresh acidity keeps this from seeming anything but graceful even on a very large scale.  Red and blue berry fruit notes are ultra-expressive, and it is remarkable that such a big wine can seem so refreshing and inviting rather than soupy and imposing.   A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition.      
94 Michael Franz Jun 22, 2021

Monterra, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz 2016 ($25):  Good value in this Barossa beauty that features blackberry, blueberry, a little wood smoke and a faint touch of menthol that brightens the nose and freshens the palate, balancing the other elements well, and extending the finish.  Lamb, please!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jan 30, 2018

Zonte's Footstep, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz “Baron Von Nemesis” 2018 ($35):  A rich, approachable Shiraz that delivers ripe red fruit, bakers chocolate and light touches of menthol and pepper that are already fully integrated in a mouth filling wine that satisfies from start to finish.  And finish, and finish….   A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Jun 25, 2019

Little Giant, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz Single Vineyard 2019 ($32, Fourth Wave Wine Co.):  The label describes Shiraz as being “small, powerful and thick-skinned – just like the wombat.”  The branding fits the wine, with a stubby bottle holding a bold, sense-of-place wine that delivers the menthol, meat and deep berry fruit that you expect, and does so with concentrated intensity.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.       
93 Rich Cook Feb 2, 2021

Rubus, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz 2015 ($23, Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd):  Deep color and rich, dense concentration of flavor are notable features in this big red wine.  Hints of eucalyptus and sage in the aroma, summery plum and berries on the palate, and a generous tannic structure are all plusses.  Interesting factoid:  “Rubus” means raspberry in Latin.  
93 Marguerite Thomas Jun 25, 2019

Thorn-Clarke, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz-Cabernet-Petit Verdot “Terra Barossa”, Estate Grown 2016 ($20, Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd):  Full and ample, with deep red and black berry and dark plum juiciness, this seductive wine will charm and delight any true lover of red wine.  Six generations of the Thorn-Clarke family have been involved in the wine business  -- they’ve been growing grapes in the Barossa since the 1870s. The blend is 30% Shiraz, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Petit Verdot.   
93 Marguerite Thomas May 14, 2019

Henschke, Barossa (Australia) “Henry’s Seven” 2016 ($50, Winebow):  The first Henschke arrived in South Australia in 1841.  Today the family’s winery is located in Keyneton in the Eden Valley of  Barossa in South Australia.  They are owners and custodians of several vineyards, including the magnificent Hill of Grace with its 100-plus-year-old, own-rooted vines.  Stephen, winemaker, and Prue, viticulturist, of the fifth generation are currently managing the winery while training the sixth generation; daughter Justine and sons Johann and Andreas.  Henry’s Seven is a blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Mataro (a.k.a. Mourvedre or Monastrell), and Viognier.  It was created to honor Henry Evans who planted the first vineyard of seven acres at Keyneton in 1853.  The blend is a nod to the historical introduction of southern French and Spanish varieties to South Australia.  It is a surprisingly nimble and graceful wine with Syrah’s peppery, black fruit and dried herbs mingling with Viognier’s floral notes.  Grenache’s generous strawberry fruit and round body is offset with Mataros’s earthy, dark fruit.  Its structure of vibrant acidity and well-integrated, ripe tannins creates a harmonious assemblage.  Savor it with grilled meats or a mushroom ragout.   
92 Rebecca Murphy Feb 4, 2020

Peter Lehmann, Barossa (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Portrait" 2014 ($19, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits):  Peter Lehmann again delivers sense of place at a sensible price in an easy to like mix of blackberry, currants, faint dried herbs, menthol and spice.  Plush texture with enough grip to keep the flavors lively in the finish makes for a crowd pleasing style that won't break the bank. 90 Rich Cook Nov 7, 2017

Thorn-Clarke, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz “Terra Barossa” 2016 ($18):  A vigorous and unpretentious red wine, Terra Barossa Shiraz is dependable and food-worthy.  With its deep red-purple hue and medium-to-full body, this Shiraz deploys plenty of berry and spice elements.  A trace of oak adds to the general ensemble of flavors (the wine was matured in French oak for up to twelve months).  Gentle tannins on the finish round things off nicely.  Serve this down-to-earth Shiraz with everyday fare such as red sauce pasta, pizza and the like.  
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 7, 2020

Chateau Tanunda, Barossa (South Australia) Shiraz Grand Barossa 2010 ($25): No one ever complains they didn't get their money's worth from Chateau Tanunda. This vintage of the winery's Grand Barossa Shiraz delivers a huge splash of rich, ripe black fruit flavor and aroma, with hints of licorice and spice. The tannins are supple; the palate soft and inviting. It's a wine that will surely please over the course of the summer grilling season. 89 Robert Whitley Jun 18, 2013

Peter Lehmann, Barossa (Australia) Shiraz “Portrait” 2014 ($19, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits):  A nice introduction to Barossa for those unfamiliar with the region, providing a softly rounded example of the typical elements, with mixed berries, eucalyptus and spice aromas and flavors joined by a touch of chocolate.  Beef or bird will work here. 89 Rich Cook Oct 31, 2017

Chateau Tanunda, Barossa (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 'Grand Barossa' 2010 ($25): This vintage of Tanunda's Grand Barossa Cab shows good palate weight and depth, with intense notes of spice, eucalyptus and blackberry. The tannins are nicely integrated, making this vintage drinkable now, but it would benefit from another year or two in the cellar before serving. Good value. 88 Robert Whitley Jun 18, 2013

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz Lionheart of the Barossa 2014 ($25): Dandelion wines are brilliantly made and modestly priced. The Lionheart of the Barossa is a beautiful example of juicy, ripe Aussie Shiraz, showing intense blueberry aroma, with spice and a warm wood note.  Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
96 Robert Whitley May 26, 2015

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa Valley (Australia) Menagerie of the Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2014 ($28): Australia is famous for its so-called GSM red Rhone-style blends and Dandelion's is one of the finest. It shows tremendous red-fruit purity from its generous portion of grenache, with inviting spice notes and a long, seductive palate. A platinum award-winner at the San Diego International Wine Challenge.
95 Robert Whitley May 31, 2016

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa Valley (Australia) 'Menagerie of the Barossa' 2013 ($25): Dandelion's Menagerie is a typical red Rhone-style blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre. Typical yes, ordinary no. This vintage shows intense red-fruit aroma, exceptional purity and balance, and length and persistence through the finish. And the price is a stunning value. Bravo!  Platinum award winner at 2015 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Mar 24, 2015

Heirloom Vineyards, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2018 ($35):  Purity of flavor is always a plus in wine and that’s what Heirloom delivers with this straightforward Barossa Valley Shiraz.  Rich notes of blueberry and spice dominate here, with supple tannins, an ultra-smooth palate, beautiful balance and exceptional length.  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2020 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.    
94 Robert Whitley Jun 2, 2020

Zonte's Footstep, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz “Baron von Nemesis” 2019 ($35):  It isn’t easy to pack this much flavor and fun into a bottle but still have the wine come across as both serious and age-worthy.  However, that’s exactly what’s been accomplished in this instance, as this 100% Shiraz is veritably bursting with delicious primary fruit that shows both red and black tones, along with excellent depth and length to the flavors.  The fruit is so opulent in both aromatic and flavor terms that only upon further inspection is one likely to appreciate the presence of acidity, tannin and subtle oak that will certainly enable this to develop even more complexity with time in bottle.  Delicious now, but even better in the future — what more could we ask?     
94 Michael Franz Jun 28, 2022

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 'The Barossan' 2015 ($19, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits):   Peter Lehman's 2015 Shiraz from Barossa is a meaty, savory example from the vintage, showing bright blueberry and black fruit aromas with an inviting black pepper note.  The tannins are nicely integrated, making for immediate enjoyment.  A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
93 Robert Whitley May 29, 2018

Reed Wines, Barossa Valley (Australia) Grenache "Alexia" 2020 ($36, Legend):  After making wines with Marco Cirillo in the Barossa Valley, American-born winemaker Sierra Reed became enchanted with the beauty of the old vine Barossa Grenache.  Her 2020 “Alexia” Grenache is see-through ruby red in the glass.  It unfurls gradually with a complex medley of aromas of dried rose petals, brambly red berries, a hint of bright strawberry candy, and damp earth.  On the palate, bright, juicy red fruit and savory mineral nuances flow right through to the finish.  You should plan to have some close at hand, as the Alexia is easy-drinking and completely irresistible.           
93 Miranda Franco Sep 5, 2023

Sister's Run Wine Company, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Grenache Shiraz Mataro "Cow's Corner" 2021 ($23):  This hits the international markers for a GSM blend – red and black fruit, a little tar and some nice spice – and its adds in some local Barossa color with eucalyptus and mint that serve to brighten the fruit and give lift to the texture.  It’s bright from start to finish, leading to a wine judge and restaurant buyer’s blind tasting comment: “By the glass, all day long!”       
93 Rich Cook Mar 7, 2023

Two Hands, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz Coach House Block 2020 ($96, Regal Wine Imports):  Winemakers generally proclaim there is no one “recipe” as to how they make wine.  But for those who are specialists in one grape, such as Michael Twelftree has been with Shiraz since he founded Two Hands in 1999 as a négociant-style producer, the best of them give their wines a signature – a similar profile for each wine while allowing vintage and terroir to do their work in providing small and large differences between wines.  In a recent tasting of six Two Hands wines coming from three different regions, two different vintages and price tags from $29 to $131, each wine immediately showed an opening core of almost creamy black raspberry flavors followed by a dry savory component and a very tangy, tannic finish with no hint of alcoholic heat.  The “Coach House Block” is the most-sophisticated of the six, although sophistication is probably not a designation Twelftree would chase.  It is the most Bordeaux-like in structure, with some chocolate hints, smooth savory notes and a lightly tart, satisfying finish with well-integrated tannins.          
92 Roger Morris Jun 28, 2022

Zonte's Footstep, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz “Baron Von Nemesis” 2013 ($20): Barossa's the place (they say "Ba-raw-sa" down under) for Shiraz, and here's a well balanced example at a nice price.  It's very dry, with deep black cherry, blackberry, menthol and leafy herb flavors that will go great with an herb encrusted pork tenderloin.  Best Shiraz and a Gold Award winner at the 2015 Monterey International Wine Competition. 92 Rich Cook Mar 31, 2015

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "Lionheart of the Barossa" 2019 ($21, Vine Street Imports):  Winemaker Elena Brooks became acquainted with wine making from an early age. She was born in Bulgaria where her mother handled marketing for a winery.  She worked with wineries in Bulgaria and Italy before she moved to Australia to study winemaking at Adelaide University.  She married Zar Brooks and they — along with growers Carl Lindner and Brad Rey — co-founded Dandelion Vineyards.  The grapes come from very old vines, some likely over 100 years old, planted on their own roots. They named this wine Lionheart in honor of Carl Lindner, who is an ardent champion of old vines.  The wine’s very dark, dense ruby color promises the concentrated black fruits of berry, cherry, plum enlaced with baking spices and vanilla.  It is smooth as velvet in the mouth and very nicely balanced with fresh acidity and fine grained tannins.  It is a surprisingly and delightfully easy to drink Barossa Shiraz.     
91 Rebecca Murphy Jan 24, 2023

John Duval Wines, Barossa Valley (South Australia) “Plexus” 2010 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars): John Duval is no stranger to wine in general and the Barossa Valley in particular. As chief winemaker for Penfolds, he oversaw their entire portfolio of wine, much of which is made from Barossa grapes, and was responsible for Grange, Australia’s icon wine. After three decades with Penfolds, he started his own label in 2003. Plexus, a seamless blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, delivers a fruity combination of ripe berries and spice. It grows in the glass. Polished tannins mean it’s perfect for barbequed or grilled meats this summer.
91 Michael Apstein May 28, 2013

3 Rings, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2009 ($20, Quintessential): This Aussie powerhouse is like a vinous version of Cirque du Soleil, twisting and summersaulting across the taste buds, more acrobatic than graceful perhaps but certainly impressive in its own spirited, energetic fashion.  It’s hard not to like a wine that has such a robust personality.  Order a pizza, top off your glass, and enjoy the show.
90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 28, 2014

Calabria Family Wines, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2013 ($16, Vineyard Brands): Blood red and pulsing with energy, the taste and textures of this Shiraz are big and assertive but never overwhelming.  With its medium body and suggestions of perfectly ripe blueberries, cherries and a little whiff of smokiness this is definitely a wine to savor.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 13, 2016

Dandelion Vineyards, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz 'Lionheart of the Barossa' 2012 ($25): Rich and ripe, this is a classic South Australia Shiraz. It exhibits lovely blueberry and blackberry aroma wrapped in sweet oak vanillin. The tannins are nicely integrated, but this wine would definitely benefit with additional age in the cellar. It won a platinum award at the recent Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition in San Diego. 90 Robert Whitley Jan 28, 2014

Langmeil, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz - Viognier 'Hangin Snakes' 2012 ($19, Negociants USA): Aussie Shiraz remains among the world’s most appealing big red wines.  The “Hangin Snakes” Shiraz-Viognier from Langmeil is a splendid example of the genre.  It shows the opulent character of its origins with ripe blueberry, blackberry and cherry fruits interwoven with lavender, anise, mint, cocoa and vanilla tones.  The flavors are rich and expressive, with layers of luscious black fruits underlain by mint, cocoa, floral and baking spice elements -- a veritable spice cake in a glass.  Blended from 96% Shiraz and 4% Viognier, its opulent and forward fruit is balanced by a delicious twist of acidity that brightens the finish.
90 Wayne Belding Feb 3, 2015

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz Portrait 2013 ($17, The Hess Collection): Australian wines first made inroads in the United States more than a decade ago with a bevy of red wines that undercut California on both quality and price. The Aussies have lost some of that early muscle, but a handful of producers can still bring it in the "value" arena. Peter Lehmann's "Portrait" Shiraz is a meaty, intense example of Barossa Valley Shiraz, showing blueberry and boysenberry fruit with a hint of minty eucalyptus.
90 Robert Whitley Dec 23, 2014

Schwarz Wine Co., Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "The Grower" 2020 ($33, Kysela Pere et Fils):  Jason Schwarz’s parents were grape growers.  He studied wine marketing at the University of Adelaide.  It wasn’t until he had visited and worked in Bordeaux, Burgundy, The Rhône, Stellenbosch and Napa that he realized that he really wanted to make wine.  His first wine was made from grapes purchased from his parent’s Nitschke Block vineyard, which was planted in 1968.  Today, The Schwarz Wine Co. is definitely a family endeavor.   As Jason established the Schwarz Wine Co., his brother Mark took over the Nitschke Block.  It must be interesting to observe the processing of grapes in the winery. The description on the website notes that “Pump overs, hand plunging and foot stomping was carried out as required.”  I breathed a sigh of relief when it noted “The wines were softly pressed and kept separately until final blending.”   Made from fruit sourced from fifteen growers in eight subregions of the Barossa Valley, the wine has an intense black ruby color and concentrated flavors of blackberries, black cherries, plums with notes of black pepper, and anise lifted by tangy acidity and sturdy tannins.       
90 Rebecca Murphy Jan 24, 2023

Yalumba, Barossa Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon - Syrah “The Signature” 2018 ($65, Winebow):  I have long been a fan of including Syrah in Bordeaux-grape blends ever since I first tasted such combos from Australia in the early 1980s.  That love was further cemented more recently by Château Palmer’s Thomas Duroux’s blending of Rhône and Bordeaux grapes in his simply labeled, but premium priced, vin de pays.  As we all know, the rule-makers that be in Bordeaux frown upon the use of Syrah in its blends, especially when it is done illegally by calling the resultant wine “Bordeaux.”  This wine has a lot of energy – ripe, yet tangy, blackberry and black raspberry flavors with some blueberry notes, some herbal aspects and finish dusty tannins.      
90 Roger Morris Dec 5, 2023

White:

Jacob's Creek, Barossa (Australia) Riesling Dry Reserve 2011 ($14):  Year in and year out this might be the finest wine made at Jacob’s Creek. A Platinum award winner at the recent Critics Challenge, it was my favorite of the dry Rieslings that advanced to the championship rounds. In the finals some judges thought it a little austere, but its flinty minerality and razor-like acidity is what I loved most. And I also know the history of this wine. It will age out beautifully, gaining flesh and complexity, and in eight years’ time be an extraordinary example of Barossa Riesling. That’s my prediction and I’m sticking to it! 91 Robert Whitley May 29, 2012

Torbreck Vintners, Barossa Valley (Australia) Semillon “Woodcutter’s” 2022 ($25, Delicato Imports):  While so many wine regions have abandoned Semillon as a table wine, Torbreck and other Aussies have stuck with it.  It was one of the first varieties planted in the Barossa Valley some 160 years ago.  Today, there’s a nucleus of old, low yielding Semillon vines.  Torbreck’s 2022 was sourced from three family owned vineyards growing what is identified as the pink-skinned Madera Semillon clone found primarily in the Barossa.  40% of the wine was aged in seasoned French oak.  In the glass, the wine has a pale yellow color and the nose displays ripe fig with secondary notes of white peach and fennel.  It is smooth and creamy on the palate with fig, citrus and mineral hints that carry through with a delightful freshness in the aftertaste.  This distinct version will pair well with clam chowder and richly sauced fish dishes.        
93 Norm Roby Mar 7, 2023

Penfolds, Eden Valley (Barossa, Australia) Riesling "Bin 51" 2023 ($36, Treasury Wine Estates):  When we think of Riesling, it is easy to go straight to the great producers of Germany or Alsace.  However, the Australian expression should also be a favorite among wine enthusiasts worldwide.  The 2023 Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling is a beautiful pale straw color in the glass that greets you with intense aromas of lemon zest, grilled lime, and preserved citrus and pear skin.  There is a lovely drive to this wine, with mineral, mouthwatering acidity that brightens the fruit, giving it a sharpness that beautifully offsets the mouth filling texture.      
93 Miranda Franco Dec 12, 2023

Clare Valley:

Red:

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "The Pioneer" 2012 ($200, AW Direct): Collectors take note -- this is a wine for the ages.  That said, it's so good now that it may never make it to your grandchild's college graduation party.  Everything is neatly in its place here, with no protruding sharp edges or "look at me" characteristics.  Rich black cherry and berry fruit mixed with mint, dark chocolate and warm spice ride a wave of supple tannins through an incredibly long finish.  I'm a fan of wines for the table, but I don't think I'd put any edibles alongside this bottle.  Absolutely riveting Shiraz.
98 Rich Cook May 5, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "The Pioneer" 2019 ($200):  One of two tribute bottlings from Wakefield (the other is “The Visionary” Cabernet) and one that the Pioneer would certainly be proud of.  This is Shiraz at its finest – there is no doubt about its provenance, with all the classic tells in place, but with such seamless integration that the dance of aromatic character and palate exposition rivet your attention and relax you to reverie at the same time.  It is the elevation of science to art that aficionados seek relentlessly, and every so often get to touch.  This wine shows just such an elevation.    
98 Rich Cook Oct 3, 2023

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz The Pioneer 2012 ($200): Australia has its share of impressive wines and I would submit Wakefield's The Pioneer Shiraz is positioned to take its place alongside the likes of Grange and other better-known powerhouse reds from Down Under. This suave, supple Shiraz offers richly layered aromas of blackberry, blueberry and raspberry, with a hint of mocha and spice. It is exquisitely balanced and refined, that rare wine that literally stops you in your tracks upon the first sip. It is an astonishing winemaking achievement and Wakefield deserves the kudos. 97 Robert Whitley Apr 21, 2015

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate The Visionary, Exceptional Parcel Release 2010 ($180):  Among the finest red wines in the world, there is little doubt Australia has its share in the lineup. Wakefield, for my money, is right there alongside Penfolds and Henschke and likely a few others. It's best Shiraz, St. Andrews, is as good as it gets, and The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon takes a back seat to no one. This vintage is a powerhouse, an impressive Cab that won't even begin to strut its best stuff for another decade. Richly layered, exhibiting black fruits, spice and a hint of eucalyptus, you could sit on this wine for a couple of decades and it wouldn't miss a beat. One for the ages.
97 Robert Whitley Jan 6, 2015

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "The Visionary" Estate, Exceptional Parcel Release 2010 ($180): A wine that is "named in honour of Bill Taylor Snr., Taylors Founder and Visionary" (Taylors is already copyrighted by the New York winery in the States, and so it is known here as Wakefield) should certainly deliver the best that the winery has to offer, and I'd say they've done a spectacular job here.  It's a beautifully structured wine, with layers of complexity and real elegance.  Blackberry, cherry, cassis, vanilla, soft mint and sweet sage fill your nose, and are followed up by a palate that's now focused on the mint and red fruit, but will integrate the other nose elements over time.  This is a real collectible gem.  If you've got a child born in 2010 and would like some birth year wine to open on a future occasion like college graduation or marriage, this should be a prime candidate. It's poised to reward the long haul in the cellar.
96 Rich Cook Jan 13, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “The Visionary” 2013 ($200): This is the second vintage that I've had the opportunity to taste, and my notes are nearly identical to the 2010 I tasted in 2015.  Classic Cabernet that isn't ashamed of its regional minty character, but doesn't overplay its hand, allowing the fruit and spice notes to speak clearly.  Age-worthy structure and lively acidity bode well for the long haul, but you may not make it very long, especially if you like that mint character on the bright side.  A fine tribute to founder Bill Taylor.
96 Rich Cook Apr 25, 2017

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz “Special Release” 2018 ($15, Taylors Wines):  The judging panel was very enthusiastic about this wine, feeling that it really jumped out of a group of 25 or so similar candidates.  I’m even more enthused after tasting and learning the high-value price.  To pack this kind of dynamic deliciousness into a fifteen-dollar package is not something I see very often.  Kudos to the producer for sharing this in such a way that all can get in on the game.  I’d hurry though -- this won’t be around for long.  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2020 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.   
96 Rich Cook Jun 2, 2020

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “St. Andrews” 2018 ($80, Seaview Imports):  I LOVE this wine.  There's real elegance here, and it's mainly textural.  Singing varietal fruit character shares the spotlight with notes of chocolate and fall baking spice, and they all ride a silky wave into a zesty finish that bursts with flavor.  You won't tire of this, and a second bottle on hand would certainly be in order.  Decant for an hour or two before serving for full enjoyment – you won’t be sorry!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.       
96 Rich Cook Jun 22, 2021

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "St. Andrews" 2018 ($80):  If you don’t believe in magic, have a taste of this wine and then try a Clare Valley Riesling as well, and please explain to me how both wines can hail from the same place without magic being involved.  While I await your explanation, let me note that this shows a combination of purity and power of fruit that defies belief, with remarkable concentration but also lots of fresh acidity that is very well integrated with the fruit.  It is almost impossible to tell by sensory analysis whether much new oak was involved in the élevage of the wine, as the fruit has essentially soaked all of it up already.  In brief, stunning wine.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition.      
96 Michael Franz Jul 6, 2021

The Barry Bros by Jim Barry, Clare Valley (Australia) Red Blend 2015 ($21, Loosen Brothers USA):  Much like its country of origin this Aussie red wine is big.  And also like the country it is complex and hugely appealing.  Showing off a notably dark pigmentation, this blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec is rich and deeply flavorful.  Factor in its appetite inducing chewy tannins and you have a near perfect red wine to serve with roast leg of lamb or a big grilled steak.
95 Marguerite Thomas Jun 30, 2020

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz 'St. Andrews' 2014 ($60):  This hot-rod shiraz from Wakefield is a showy wine that dazzles consistently from vintage to vintage. The 2014 is rich and layered, showing aromas of ripe blueberry, blackberry and mulberry, with an overlay of eucalyptus and a hint of spice. The finish is seemingly endless, with exceptional persistence of flavor.
95 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2016

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz St. Andrews Vineyard 2012 ($60):  Though it's not exactly cheap, or even modest in price, the St. Andrews Vineyard Shiraz from Wakefield routinely ranks high in the red-wine value category. This is a blockbuster Shiraz in 2012, and a bit of a rarity in that it achieves its layered complexity and power without an excessive level of alcohol (14.5 percent). It exhibits layers of ripe blackberry and blueberry fruit, richness without heat and weight, and smooth, supple tannins that make it enjoyable without need for additional age, though it certainly has the right stuff to improve over the next eight to 10 years.
95 Robert Whitley Jan 13, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz “St Andrews” 2019 ($80, Seaview Imports):  This is a bottle remarkable for its consistency year after year.  It lets you know where it hails from with mint and eucalyptus notes that offset the rich blackberry and blueberry fruit perfectly, and a peppery finish closes things out, thought not at all quickly.  The hits just keep on coming.  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2022 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.         
95 Rich Cook Feb 1, 2022

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "St. Andrews" 2019 ($80, Seaview Imports):  The Clare Valley of South Australia is noted for both red and white wines.  The Wakefield St. Andrews Shiraz is a superb example of Clare Valley reds.  Made only in the best vintages, the St. Andrews Shiraz grapes are grown on Terra Rossa soils and show a combination of power and elegance that is truly exceptional.  The bouquet is intense and inviting, with luscious blackberry and blueberry fruit scents interwoven with subtleties of vanilla, leather, mint, earth, cinnamon and herbs. The flavors are concentrated and complex with layers of succulent fruits unfolding on the palate. The delicious fruit flavors are enhanced by the creamy, smooth texture, the vanilla, herb and spice subtleties.       
95 Wayne Belding Mar 29, 2022

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "The Visionary", Exceptional Parcel Release 2014 ($140):  A quick search of my reviews over the years likely will show a repetitive use of certain words -- acidity, structure, finish, etc. -- but this wine reminds me that one word could benefit just about every review, and that word is decant.  Nearly every still wine, but youngish red wines in particular will surely benefit from the practice.  As a taster often faced with a large number of wines to get through, it’s easy to miss the glories that air time can expose.  This wine offers a perfect example:  On pop and pour, it’s rather off-putting, with strident green eucalyptus aromas.  An hour in the decanter takes that element and weaves it into the background of a complex nose of black fruit and spice. The palate shows great depth of varietally-correct fruit flavors, complementary oak spice, supple tannins, and a finish that goes on and on, with that kiss of eucalyptus freshening your senses and inviting more.  Some of the best things in life unfold slowly. Take time to peel back the layers!
95 Rich Cook Nov 6, 2018

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "The Pioneer", Exceptional Parcel Release 2013 ($140, Seaview Imports):  I went gaga over the 2012 iteration of this wine, and this vintage isn’t far behind.  Scents of blackberry pie, fall spice and a complementary hint of menthol entice on the nose, and are delivered on the palate with classy oak tones and a touch of tar adding to the mix.  My focus here is on the moderate palate weight which suits the flavor profile, keeping things bright and brassy.  Big beef preps, lamb or medium plus cheeses will only elevate the proceedings. 
95 Rich Cook Dec 25, 2018

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "The Pioneer", Exceptional Parcel Release 2014 ($140, Seaview Imports):  I enjoyed tasting this bottling side by side with the 2013, and I’m scoring them equivalently, though they are quite different in character.  This wine is on the bolder side -- partly due to youth, but mainly due to a bit more ripeness of fruit and a bit less barrel influence.  A great mix of black and blue are the lead fruit voices here, with soft menthol and savory notes adding depth and interest.  A fine demonstration of what vintage variation actually is, and another cellar worthy wine.  
95 Rich Cook Dec 25, 2018

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "St. Andrews" 2016 ($80):  Another classy presentation of this bottling, with the regional character to let you know where it’s from, and the elegance to make you think it should sit alongside the best Syrahs in the world.  It should, and it does.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Monterey International Wine Competition.  
95 Rich Cook Mar 19, 2019

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "The Pioneer", Exceptional Parcel Release 2013 ($140):  Showing richness and length on the palate, the 2013 Pioneer from Wakefield is an impressive expression of Australia’s signature grape variety.  Spicy, with a somewhat restrained note of eucalyptus, and notes of blueberry and blackberry, the 2013 is beautifully balanced and just now beginning to hit its stride. 
95 Robert Whitley Dec 11, 2018

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "St. Andrews", Single Vineyard 2016 ($70):  This is Wakefield’s big boy Cabernet, a hedonistic red that is weighty and rich on the palate, shows notes of blackberry and cassis and a subtle use of oak that complements rather than overpowers the gorgeous fruit.  Well balanced with impressive length, this wine finishes with an attractive note of spice.  
95 Robert Whitley May 14, 2019

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "St. Andrews" 2016 ($80):  A hat trick for this wine in 2019, with Platinum medals at San Diego International and Monterey International wine competitions preceding this latest award.  This is another classy presentation of this bottling, with the regional character to let you know where it’s from, and the elegance to make you think it should sit alongside the best Syrahs in the world.  It should, and it does.  A serious value in its class, and a Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.   
95 Rich Cook Jun 18, 2019

Jim Barry, Clare Valley (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "The Benbournie" 2014 ($75, Loosen Bros. USA):  I’ve got my doubts that anybody outside of Australia would try to make great Riesling and great Cabernet Sauvignon in the same area.  I’ve also got my doubts that anybody else could make it work, but I’ll be damned if the vintners of Clare Valley don’t manage to do exactly that, and do it year after year.  This is indisputably great Cabernet, showing a stately character that I love unreservedly.  The fruit is fully ripe but still admirably restrained in character, showing notes of blackberries and black cherries along with nicely integrated undertones of dried herbs, subtle spices and the faintest whiff of toast.  The tannins are sufficiently abundant to enable this to develop for years to come, but they definitely don’t preclude current enjoyment, as they’re fine in grain and easily counterbalanced by the wine’s fruit.  Every element in this wine is beautifully proportioned, with the result that it packs a lot of flavor without ever seeming pushy.  That’s an impressive feat, and this is a very impressive wine precisely because it comes off seeming so natural, integrated and…odd as this may seem, effortless.  A thoroughbred. 
94 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2018

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "The Pioneer", Exceptional Parcel Release 2014 ($140):  Though not as evolved or showing the early signs of maturity that are obvious in the 2013 vintage, the 2014 Pioneer from Wakefield offers exceptional density on the palate and ripe black-fruit character with firm structure and excellent balance. 
94 Robert Whitley Dec 11, 2018

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "St. Andrews" 2018 ($50, Taub Family Selections):  Wakefield / Taylors is a top-class Clare Valley winery.  The Wakefield estate is in a lovely setting at the south end of the valley, situated on terra rossa soils that yield grapes of exemplary quality.  Their 2018 St. Andrews Shiraz is an elegant and complex red wine.  While certainly full flavored, it displays a balance and liveliness associated with the best Aussie Shiraz bottlings.  It offers ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit aromas enhanced by layers of blueberry, lavender, tea leaf, mint and spice.  The flavors are plush, layered and rounded, but still lively and bright, with blackberry and cherry fruit followed by subtleties of mint, vanilla, tea and baking spice.  It is luscious and forward with velvety fruit, but its overall lift and refreshing character makes it a truly superior Shiraz.         
94 Wayne Belding May 4, 2021

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "St. Andrews", Single Vineyard 2016 ($70):  Another year, another delightful vintage of St. Andrews Cabernet from this venerable producer.   Lively blackberry, cassis, mint and cigar box aromas and flavors pulse at this young age with full throttle excitement that promises to calm and deepen with some additional aging.  That said, it’s a beauty right now as a solo glass or beef accompaniment.  This wine extends an already impressive pedigree.  
94 Rich Cook Jun 4, 2019

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "St. Andrews" 2016 ($80):  Always a solid performer, the St. Andrews in this vintage is rather tight at present, but all the expected elements are in place, and time or a large decanter will work magic on the blackberry, blueberry, brown spice and menthol.  Give it a half day in the decanter near term, or age long term.  Classy Shiraz!   A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Sep 25, 2018

Wakefield Estate / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Merlot 2015 ($18, AW Direct): Fresh wine from down under!  The 2015's from south of the equator are starting to appear up top, and if this bottle is typical, it's a good thing.  Firm as you would expect in its infancy, the fruit has no trouble coming right to the front, with cherry, blackberry, mint and a little tarry note present on the nose and in the mouth, and a long, leafy finish that keeps the fruit in play.  I'd serve this with a rich meat dish -- roast lamb is the first thing that pops to mind.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jan 19, 2016

Wakefield Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "St. Andrews" 2015 ($70):  Spot-on Aussie Shiraz that’s not shy about letting you know where it comes from, with bold blackberry and menthol aromas leading to a savory palate where the fruit matches the umami and menthol character beautifully.  There’s a long life ahead here, but if you can’t wait, decant well and bring on the lamb.   A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 Monterey International Wine Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Mar 13, 2018

Jim Barry, Clare Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "The McRae Wood" 2014 ($48, Loosen Bros. USA):  This is a traditionally-styled, thoroughly exciting, kick-ass bottle of Shiraz.  It is sourced from a vineyard planted in 1964 that also produces the Jim Barry “Armagh” Shiraz…that lists for $300.  “The McRae Wood” was introduced in 1992 as a “second wine,” presumably in the tradition of Bordeaux that reserves the very best juice for the Grand Vin and drops the lesser juice down a notch to exalt the flagship.  Well, I’ve never been fortunate to taste the Armagh” Shiraz, so I can’t speak to the relative merits of the two wines, but I can say with absolute certainty that “The McRae Wood” does NOT taste like a second-stringer.  It shows wonderful aromas of ripe red and black berries with an exciting eucalyptus topnote that adds both complexity and regional typicity without distracting from the delicious fruit.  There’s still a bit of wood also showing as a distinct element, but it too works beautifully with the fruit, adding a bit of spice to the subtly peppery fruit.  Rich and very deeply flavored but not heavy or “soupy,” this is absolutely full of delicious fun.  Pass the grilled lamb chops! 
93 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2018

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon St. Andrews 2013 ($60, AW Direct): I've followed this wine since the 2006 vintage, and it's always a fine performer.  The expected powerful mint character is here in youth, and a recent taste of the 2006 suggests that some time will mellow the mint and bring the rich berry and currant profile center stage.  All the supple tannin and acidic structure for aging is here in this wine, and it's a perfect illustration of the "sense of place" idea that you hear us wine geeks talk about.
93 Rich Cook Jan 5, 2016

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz “Reserve Parcel” 2015 ($25): Spot-on Shiraz that shows bright black and blue fruit, pepper, soft menthol and spice, and a nice savory note.  It is finished in a nice dry style that is begging for roast lamb as a pairing.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
93 Rich Cook May 30, 2017

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz “St. Andrews” 2014 ($60): One of Wakefield's more famous offerings scores again with this vintage, which shows restraint and elegance.  A deep nose of black and blue berries with intriguing rather than in-your-face menthol, orange blossom and spice notes that translate nicely into palate flavors, riding a supple texture through a long and satisfying finish that brings a touch of sweet citrus forward.  I'm a fan!
93 Rich Cook Nov 15, 2016

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon St. Andrews 2015 ($60, Seaview Imports):  A nice balance of black fruit, mint and menthol that shows location and pleases with balance.  A long finish with seamless integration and popping acidity keeps you returning to the glass.  Bring on the beef or lamb! 
93 Rich Cook Nov 27, 2018

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($20):  The Clare, as the Aussies call it, produces red wines of elegance and that is evident in this delightful Cabernet Sauvignon from Wakefield.   Well balanced and smooth, it offers a distinct palate of red-fruit aromas with a touch of eucalyptus and spice on the finish.   A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
93 Robert Whitley Oct 1, 2019

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2017 ($20):  Shiraz from the Clare Valley is generally quite different from Shiraz made in the nearby Barossa Valley. More elegant and a bit lighter in body, it has its own unique appeal. This Wakefield Shiraz from Clare Valley shows pretty aromas of blueberry and wood spice, with bright acidity and an lingering finish. A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
92 Robert Whitley Jun 5, 2018

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2013 ($17): Wakefield's Estate Cabernet will be a revelation for some. For one thing, it's a blockbuster red wine from Australia's Clare Valley but it's not a Shiraz. For another, it exhibits the strong scent of eucalyptus on the nose, which is a telltale sign of many Australian reds. This vintage is dense and layered, with gorgeous black-fruited aromas, silky tannins and a dazzling finish. And it's a big bang for the buck at $17.
92 Robert Whitley Jan 6, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “St. Andrews” 2014 ($60): Looking for an unabashedly bold expression of Aussie Cabernet?  Look no further than this vibrant mouth-filling wine that's got great blackberry and menthol, with notes of dried herb, cassis and spice on the nose and the palate, with a firm grip that keeps things together.  I like it now, but some aging will really show its charms.  I'd say ten years isn't out of line.  Nice!
92 Rich Cook Nov 15, 2016

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2012 ($20): It's Wakefield in the U.S., Taylors in Australia. But by either name it's a big-time Aussie Shiraz at a beautiful price. This vintage is loaded with ripe blueberry aroma, excellent weight and balance on the palate, and a long, spicy finish. It was a platinum winner at the Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 92 Robert Whitley Jan 28, 2014

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon St. Andrews Vineyard 2012 ($60, AW Direct): The St. Andrews bottlings that I've tasted are typically in need of some additional bottle aging, and this vintage is no exception.  Still, it's worth writing that the bottle aging will be worth your while here.  The wine currently comes off quite green and herbaceous, but the blackberry and currant flavors are evident underneath, and will only come forward as the herbal qualities integrate.  I'd recommend purchasing a few bottles and forgetting about them for ten years.  We'll talk later... .
90 Rich Cook Sep 1, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($17):  Pound for pound, dollar for dollar, this is one of the finest Cabernet Sauvignons you are likely to find for less than $20. Showing a nose of violets and spice, on the palate the wine delivers a complex mix of blueberry, cherry and boysenberry with hints of oak vanillin.  Balanced, with supple tannins, it’s ready to drink now.
90 Robert Whitley May 14, 2019

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($17):  Wakefield consistently delivers wines with true sense of place across multiple price points, and I couldn’t be more pleased with their lineup. Take this Cabernet -- rich blackberry, black cherry and spice with signature Clare Valley eucalyptus and menthol notes that enhance rather than overwhelm.  Add another winner to the list.    (Note: Taylors is a family-owned winery in Australia; their wines are known as Wakefield in the US and Europe.)   
90 Rich Cook Apr 30, 2019

Wakefield Estate / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2014 ($17): Wakefield continues to offer tremendous bang for the buck, as this Shiraz from the Clare Valley demonstrates. Rich and layered, it exhibits gorgeous aromas of ripe black fruits, with hints of anise and spice, beautifully integrated tannins and a long, floral finish. A gem at the price.
90 Robert Whitley Jul 21, 2015

Wakefield Estate / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2014 ($17, AW Direct): Wakefield (called Taylor's within Australia) is on a roll across the price spectrum, as this entry-level offering demonstrates.  It's got a deep aromatic profile that I'll describe as a rustic berry tart, with jammy black fruit and spice, delicate wintergreen, and a little chocolate. These translate directly to flavors on the palate, and while it makes a great solo quaff, racy acidity suggests grilled red meats will be improved when mated with this tasty, approachable wine.
89 Rich Cook Jul 28, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Merlot 2017 ($17):  The Clare, as it is called by the locals, is most famous for its classically proportioned Shiraz, but beyond that most everything else from the Clare is top-notch. The 2017 Merlot is soft and supple, shows a distinct floral note, and aromas of plum and black cherry. And it’s a steal at this price. 
88 Robert Whitley May 14, 2019

Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon St. Andrews Vineyard 2012 ($60, A):   Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2015

Wakefield, Clare Valley & Eden Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 'The Visionary' 2009 ($120): Clare Valley is among the finest terroirs for Cabernet Sauvignon in all of South Australia, and this gem of a Cab from Wakefield drives home that point. Beautifully layered and complex, this powerful example of Clare Cab shows ripe blackberry and cassis fruit, aromas of mocha and coffee, and a backnote of eucalyptus. It's a stunning wine now, but destined to improve for those with the patience and discipline to cellar it another eight to ten years. 96 Robert Whitley Feb 4, 2014

White:

Grosset, Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling Polish Hill 2020 ($57, Hudson Wine Brokers):   The Polish Hill vineyard was planted by Jeffrey Grosset in 1996.  It is A-Grade Certified Organic and Biodynamic (ACO).   A bed of blue slate is the base for silt and shallow shales over a thin crust of clay.  The Riesling vineyard is planted with two German clones and one local clone.  The vines have a hard time getting nutrients from the soil, which results in a lower yield, and small, concentrated berries.  Those vines produce only two bottles of wine per vine.  They consider the 2020 vintage to be idyllic and the wine concurs.  It is pure and precise with lime zest, Meyer lemon, green apple fruit with saline notes and taut acidity, the epitome of Clare Valley Riesling.  It doesn’t get better than this. 
98 Rebecca Murphy Oct 3, 2023

Taylors, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling St. Andrews 2015 ($50):  It's too bad on some level that the St. Andrews single-vineyard riesling from Taylors is so inviting now, for in another 10 to 15 years it will be positively astounding. That's the typical path for the finer dry rieslings from Australia's Clare Valley and it's one St. Andrews is apt to follow. For the near term, however, St. Andrews shows notes of lime and stony minerals, with a firm texture that will become more oily and rounded with age. Even at this early juncture it's a stunning riesling. A platinum award-winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition.
95 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling "St. Andrews", Single Vineyard 2017 ($40):  Clare Valley is home to many of Australia’s finest dry Rieslings, and I include Wakefield’s St. Andrews among them.  This vintage offers classic aromas of lime citrus and orange blossom, with a hint of minerality on the nose and mouth-watering acidity that will preserve this wine for more than a decade.  And that’s the best part.  Dry Riesling from the Clare Valley evolves over time into a wine with extraordinary complexity and allure.  Yes, you could certainly consume it now with pleasure.  But those with the patience to cellar this wine, a remarkable wine experience awaits.  
95 Robert Whitley Feb 12, 2019

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Chardonnay "St. Andrews" 2020 ($40):  The 2020 vintage of this wine is a bit more forward with its fruit than past vintages I’ve tasted, which have tended toward the good side of austere.  There’s a freshness here that is impossible to miss, with spiced pear, lemon zest and mild oak toast all well folded and propped up by focused acidity.  This will no doubt widen the audience without any compromise in quality.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.          
95 Rich Cook Sep 28, 2021

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling “St. Andrews” 2017 ($40, Seaview Imports):  Riesling from Down Under is a personal favorite, and if you’re a fan of bracing acidity, tart citrus and overall beauty, you’ll love this example.  Eden Valley seems to get a lot of the press, but this Clare Valley example shouts its presence with style and class.  If you’re still reading you’re probably a Riesling geek like me, so chew on these numbers:  12.5 alcohol, 2.9 pH, 9.79 TA and .12 Residual Sugar.  That’s got me salivating, but it doesn’t matter much if it doesn’t translate to a great glass.  It certainly does here.  The finish goes on and on -- if you love fresh lime zest, this delivers the goods.  Halibut filet, please.   
95 Rich Cook May 28, 2019

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling "Reserve Parcel" 2019 ($25, Taylors Wines):  Riesling has found a more than suitable home in Australia, particularly when it comes to dry styled examples.  This Clare Valley beauty shows notes recalling white flowers, lemon, lime and stone aromas that translate well on a crisp palate thanks to racy acidity.  The finish shows great flavor push and integrated lingering citrus and stone.  Love it!   A Platinum Award Winner at the 2020 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.   
94 Rich Cook Jun 2, 2020

Wakefield Estate / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling St. Andrews 'Single Vineyard Release' 2014 ($40): You could argue whether Australia's finest Rieslings come from the Clare or the western part of the country, from Margaret River to the Great Southern. No matter your preference, you wouldn't be wrong, but for my money the Clare takes the prize, and Wakefield is one of the best in the business in the Clare. So this beautiful St. Andrews Vineyard Riesling from Wakefield was hardly a surprise. It shows the telltale signs of fresh lime and zesty lemon that mark it as Clare, and with a subdued minerality that experience tells me will become more expressive with time, providing additional complexity that will set this Riesling apart from lesser wines.
94 Robert Whitley Jul 21, 2015

Wakefield Estate / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling St. Andrews 2014 ($40, AW Direct): Another knock out wine from Wakefield.  I talk a lot about acidity in my reviews, and I definitely have a preference for wines with a strong acidic presence.  It's on display in spades here, where it delivers a Champagne-like scouring character that cleans your palate and leaves a fresh citrus and stony mineral impression that lingers very persistently.  If you find bubbles to be a distraction, try this as an alternative.  Better yet, age it long term -- up to 20 years won't hurt it at all. I'm continually blown away by Aussie Rieslings!
94 Rich Cook Jul 28, 2015

Grosset, Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling “Alea” 2022 ($41, Hudson Wine Brokers):  Clare Valley Riesling wines are in a class of their own, and so is Jeffrey Grosset.  He fell in love with Clare Valley Riesling when he was 15 years old.   He studied Agriculture and Oenology at Roseworthy Agricultural College.  He started his winery in 1981.  He lead the charge in the battle to recognize the screw cap as the  best closure for preserving Riesling’s charming freshness.  If you are familiar with Australian Rieslings, Alea is a bit of a surprise, since it has a bit of residual sugar.  However, there's just a bit of it, and it has the effect of softening the wine without muting Riesling’s bright and lively acidity.  Precise and pristine with flavors of lime and lemon mingling with floral notes, crisp and lively with a mouthwatering  finish.  The grapes come from the Rockwood Vineyard, which is certified organic and biodynamic by AOC, Australia’s largest certifier for organic and biodynamic produce.          
93 Rebecca Murphy May 30, 2023

Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling “Mort’s Block” 2009 ($35, Old Bridge Cellars):  One of my biggest surprises tasting wines was discovering how good Australian Riesling is.  The conventional wisdom is that Australia is hot (an overly broad generalization), and that Riesling needs cool climate (not always, it turns out).  This Riesling from the Watervale section, a well-known area for producing outstanding Riesling in Clare Valley, is sensational.  Fresh, dry and mineraly, it’s long and gracious.  Citrus elements amplify the finish and complement the edgy minerality.  This is a firm, bracing style of Riesling without a hint of sweetness. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2011

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling St. Andrews 2005 ($30, Brown Forman):  Australia's Clare Valley yields impressive dry Rieslings that are the equal of any made in Europe. Wakefield is among the top players in this arena, and its St. Andrews line is representative of the best Riesling the Clare has to offer. This '05 is a mouth-watering example that exhibits penetrating minerality, intense aromas of citrus and tropical fruit, with bracing acidity and a fresh, clean finish. 92 Robert Whitley Aug 10, 2010

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Chardonnay "St. Andrews" 2016 ($40):  Sublimely subtle Chardonnay from down under, which reminds me that this grape from this region tends to be undervalued north of the equator.  Maybe it’s just less noticed with all of that Shiraz floating around….  Anyway, this bottle will show you what I’m talking about, with its soft lemon, lime, honeydew, stone and faint herb aromas and flavors, and its long, seamlessly integrated finish.  Seafood is the ticket here, lightly spiced and creamy preps please.  
92 Rich Cook Jan 1, 2019

Jim Barry, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling "Lodge Hill" 2017 ($20):  I love Rieslings from Australia, and I love them from Clare and Eden Valleys in South Australia as well as several appellations in Western Australia.  And I buy them, every year.  Many fellow wine lovers whom I know aren’t even aware that Riesling is made in Australia, which is a sad commentary on the current difficulties of selling Australian wines in the USA, as well as the continuing under-appreciation of Riesling from any location.  With that acknowledged, there’s no doubt in my mind that Australia will return to commercial prominence across the wine world, and that Riesling will ultimately take its rightful place alongside Chardonnay as the world’s two greatest white varieties.  Bottles like this will help…a lot.  This 2017 rendition of “Lodge Hill” shows lovely aromas and flavors of limes and green apples with very good body and depth of flavor but an immaculately clean, crisp finish.  Dry but not remotely austere, this is just flat delicious. 
91 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2018

Jim Barry, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling "Watervale" 2017 ($15, Loosen Bros. USA):  Very nearly as good as the Jim Barry “Lodge Hill” Riesling but at a price that is 25% lower, this is a steal, and a delicious one at that.  Watervale is a district within the Clare Valley that makes memorable Rieslings every year, and this is surely no exception.  There’s actually even more richness and juiciness in this bottling than in the 2017 rendition of the “Lodge Hill” Riesling, and though I found more refinement in the more expensive of the two wines, this Watervale bottling most certainly does not taste like a trade-down.  It is fresh enough to work with shellfish or white-fleshed finfish, but also sufficiently flavorful to work well with chicken or other white meats. 
90 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2018

Jim Barry, Clare Valley (South Australia) Assyrtiko 2017 ($30, Loosen Bros. USA):  This is a delicious rendition of Assyrtiko, the most striking white variety of Greece that is almost always sourced from the gorgeous island of Santorini.  Renditions of Assyrtiko from Santorini are so delicious that I’ve often wondered why vintners in other parts of the world haven’t planted it to learn what it could do from their area.  Well, leave it to an Aussie to actually do that…and then reap successful rewards.  The vines behind this are still young, and there’s every reason to believe that they will produce more profound wines in the future, but they’re already off to an impressive start.  Medium-bodied, with moderately expressive aromas but more pronounced flavors, the wine shows notes of white melon, fig and lime, all of which recall the Greek originals.  What is different is that the saline minerality of Santorini wines really doesn’t show in the finish of this wine, which makes it a bit less exciting to my personal taste.  But then, when I’ve shown Assyrtiko from Santorini to experienced tasters in advanced wine classes, more than a few found the saltiness too assertive, so you should definitely give this a try.  The price is a little high, but justified by the wine’s rarity.  I don’t know how good this wine will become in the years ahead, but I do know it is a bad idea to bet against the Aussies. 
90 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2018

Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling 'Mort's Block' 2009 ($35, Old Bridge Cellars):  The Claire Valley is renowned in Australia (and the Riesling-drinking world) for its dry, crisp mineral-laced Rieslings.  This one from Kilikanoon is no exception, although the price may give some consumers pause.  Tank fermented and free of any wood, it has a brilliant light gold color, delicate aromas of Granny Smith apples and citrus zest and dry flavors with medium fruit, tangy acidity, 12.5% alcohol and good length. Packed with fruit and balanced with mouth-watering acidity, this Claire Riesling is a good choice for summer dining. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 9, 2011

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Chardonnay 2014 ($18): This vintage from Wakefield exhibits notes of baked apple and pear, with a nuance of baking spice and a lingering finish. Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
90 Robert Whitley May 26, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Chardonnay 2017 ($17, Seaview Imports):   Wakefield's Clare Valley Chardonnay is a fresh, easy-on-the-oak example that focuses on pear and apple flavors.  Soft texture gives way to bright acidity in the finish, where the touch of wood spice comes forward and stretches things out.  A fine inexpensive solo glass or a promising partner for roast chicken.  
90 Rich Cook May 21, 2019

Jim Barry, Clare Valley (South Australia) Assyrtiko 2017 ($28, Negociants USA):  In 2006 Peter Barry, third generation winemaker of Jim Barry Wines in Australia’s Clare Valley, vacationed on the Greek island of Santorini.  There, he tasted wines from the native Assyrtiko grape variety and was so intrigued that he set about bringing Assyrtiko to Australia.  The first vines were planted in 2012 and there is now a limited quantity exported to the USA.  This is a bright, lively and refreshing white wine.  Fresh, floral scents are enhanced by elements of peach,  pear, lime and tropical fruits.  On the palate, it is juicy and lively with lime and pear tones that linger nicely at the finish.  Deliciously pleasing now, it will be interesting to see how this develops over the next couple of years.  Bravo to Peter Barry for bringing Assyrtiko to a new continent. 
89 Wayne Belding Mar 6, 2018

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (Australia) Chardonnay Estate 2017 ($17):  Aromas of lemon crème and spice, baked apple and pear and a smooth, creamy finish make this medium-bodied, pleasing Chardonnay a serious candidate for everyday house white wine.  
88 Robert Whitley Feb 12, 2019

Wakefield, Clare Valley and Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling 'Jaraman' 2013 ($25): Some of my favorite dry Rieslings come from, of all places, Australia, specifically the Clare and Eden valleys in South Australia. They are fresh and clean when young, dominated by the aroma of ripe lime citrus combined with bracing acidity. They don't possess the brioche, baked bread aromas of a German Riesling, but the telltale minerality of this noble grape variety is very much in evidence. The 2013 "Jaraman" from Wakefield is classic in this sense. What's remarkable about these wines is the fact they are vibrant and delicious when young, but age remarkably well although the character and flavors change dramatically. 92 Robert Whitley Jan 21, 2014

Kilikanoon, Watervale (Clare Valley, Australia) Riesling “Mort’s Block” 2012 ($18, Old Bridge Cellars): Australian Rieslings, such as this one, continue to captivate.  The delight this wine delivers should come as no surprise.  The Watervale area of the Clare Valley is especially well known for top-notch Riesling, and Kilikanoon is an excellent producer.  Its bracing dry laser-like focus and the lime-like citrus quality tingle the palate.  It’s long and cutting, in an uplifting way.  A versatile wine, it’s perfect for cutting this summer’s heat and humidity, for sushi, or with spicy Asian fare.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2013

Kilikanoon, Watervale District, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling "Mort's Reserve" 2009 ($35, Old Bridge Cellars): Why would you buy a white wine that is now more than 8 years old?  Because it is a wine that can actually become more intricate and interesting for more than a decade.  Who sells such a wine in the USA?  The importer, Old Bridge Cellars, which not only sells to distributors, but also direct to consumers from its website.  Who would pony up $35 for such a wine?  Well, me, actually, on account of having the good fortune to taste many astonishing aged Aussie Rieslings over the years during my travels down under.  I bought it in late winter, and showed a bottle at a wine class last weekend, and it was terrific...still super fresh and edgy, with incredibly intense mineral aromas and flavors and subtle citrus fruit undertones.  This will seem rather austere to some tasters, but one person's "austere" is another person's "stately," and I think the latter descriptor is much more apt.  If you've never tasted an aged Aussie Riesling from a top producer, you owe it to yourself to try one, and this would be a great choice for your initiation rite.
94 Michael Franz Jun 27, 2017

Coonawarra:

Red:

Wynns, Coonawara (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 'Black Label' 2012 ($40): South Australia's finest terroir for Cabernet Sauvignon is probably the red soil of the Coonawarra region, which produces long-lived Cabernet with structure and complexity. Wynn's Black Label is beautifully sculpted, with firm tannins and fine balance between fruit and acidity. On the palate it shows blackberry and cassis aromas with a hint of lead pencil. The tension is exceptional and bodes well for long-term cellaring.  Platinum award winner at the 2015 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Robert Whitley Mar 24, 2015

Marley Farm, Coonawarra (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($20): I love a location-identifiable wine, and this Cabernet Sauvignon has Coonawarra written all over it.  Blackberry, cassis, menthol, oak spice and a fair price, and you've got a way to show your wine friends what sense of place is all about.   A Platinum award winner at the 2017 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
92 Rich Cook Sep 26, 2017

Criterion Collection, Coonawarra (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2013 ($17, WX Imports): If you like the minty side of Aussie red wine, but not to the point that you think you're chewing Wrigley's spearmint gum, you'll enjoy this fruit forward Cabernet.  The mint is there, it doesn't overwhelm the black cherry, plum and spice, but complements them nicely.  Serve it along side a juicy ribeye -- you'll be able to afford a thicker cut with this wine as an accompaniment.
89 Rich Cook Dec 29, 2015

Eden Valley:

Red:

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Barossa, South Australia) Shiraz "Red Queen" 2020 ($250):  Just to be sure I don’t anger the Queen, my formal designation for this wine botches her full title, which on the label reads, “Red Queen of the Eden Valley.”  Even at this early stage in the wine’s development, it is phenomenally complex and interesting, showing power as well as freshness and layers upon layers of compelling accents.  It has already soaked up most of the wood involved in its upbringing, allowing the extraordinary fruit to show its many facets as well as a whole host of accents ranging from lifted floral notes to deeply flavored blackberry preserves.  Priced as this is for a very special occasion, it needs to be truly compelling for me to support it enthusiastically, but truly compelling is exactly what it is.  Wicked good wine now, and likely better and better over the next two decades.   
97 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2023

Heirloom Vineyards, Eden Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "L'Alambra" 2016 ($80):   With remarkable depth and power, this Shiraz from Heirloom is a towering achievement of vineyard work and cellar care.   Rich and dynamic, it shows layered black fruits with velvety tannins, a touch of wood spice and impressive length.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
97 Robert Whitley Oct 2, 2018

Henschke, Eden Valley (Australia) Shiraz Mount Edelstone Vineyard 2016 ($202, Winebow):  The aromas and flavors of rich black cherry, plum, fruit mingling notes of black pepper and sandalwood are intense and concentrated, wrapped in a linear structure of vivid acidity and dusty tannins.  It is drinking well now, and the beautiful balance of ripe fruit and elegant structure will ensure a long life.  It is from a vineyard of Syrah grapes that was planted in 1912 in Eden Valley in South Australia.  Like the Hill of Grace Vineyard also owned by the Henschke family, the vines were planted on their own roots, rather than grafted onto native American rootstock to protect the vines from a phylloxera, a root louse that can destroy the vines.      
97 Rebecca Murphy May 24, 2022

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Shiraz “Red Queen of the Eden Valley” 2018 ($250):  This is the best vintage of an always worthy wine that I’ve had the pleasure to taste to date.  Aromas of rich red, black and blue fruits are distinct, complemented by warming oak spice and a slight hint of menthol.  These all come across in similar fashion on a palate that is ripe yet restrained, allowing each element its moment to shine.  It’s quite amazing now, yet it also has age-worthy structure that will carry it well into the future.  When it comes to Eden Valley, Dandelion is a winner hands-down.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.        
96 Rich Cook Apr 27, 2021

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Shiraz "Red Queen of the Eden Valley" 2015 ($100): Eden Valley is rapidly moving to the top of my destination list thanks to this winery's work with Riesling and Shiraz from the region.  This red wine has tamed all the wildness of the grape into an elegant, complex package that shows red and black fruit, citrus, subtle mint and spice, and it has a finish that just keeps on giving.  A great Shiraz, and a Platinum Award Winner at the 2017 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
96 Rich Cook Sep 26, 2017

Heirloom Vineyards, Eden Valley (South Australia) Shiraz 2013 ($70): The Eden Valley is producing some amazing fruit, and it's being made into some great wine, like this bottling from Heirloom.  Bold black fruit, menthol, orange zest and spice aromas lead to a palate that's deliciously dry and delivers the promise of the nose over firm structure that's going to need a few years to soften and give all its charms up fully.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Mar 24, 2015

Heirloom Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Shiraz “A’Lambra” 2016 ($80):  A muscular wine that begs for something rich and meaty at the table.  Zingy acidity and a firm tannic structure prop up rich black and red fruit flavors, with peppery spice riding alongside through a long finish.  Not a solo sipper due to its sheer size, but a beauty when paired properly.   A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jun 25, 2019

Dandelion Vineyards, Edna Valley (Australia) Shiraz 'Red Queen of the Eden Valley' 2012 ($85): This spicy, pricy shiraz from Dandelion shows an inviting nose of violets and spice, with lovely notes on the palate of blueberry and raspberry and a hint of white pepper. The tannins are nicely integrated and the wine is supple and juicy of the palate. It finishes with tremendous persistence.  Platinum award winner at the 2015 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Robert Whitley Mar 24, 2015

White:

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling Wonderland of the Eden Valley 2015 ($60): Outside of France and Germany, the best place in the world to grow Riesling is Australia. And one of the best terroirs in Australia is the Eden Valley. This vintage from Dandelion is a stunning wine that likely will improve in the bottle over the next 20 years, and then hold its form for another 20. Dry and minerally, with firm acids that will cloak its fruit potential for some time to come, this is a magnificent wine that rivals the best dry Rieslings from Alsace or the Mosel. A platinum award-winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
97 Robert Whitley Jan 31, 2017

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling “Wonderland of the Eden Valley” 2016 ($55, Vine Street Imports): I've been a fan of this bottling for a few years now, and it continues to be an absolute stunner.  There's so much acidity in this wine that it will live for decades, continuing to add depth across the years.  Delicate stonefruit, floral and wet stone aromas lead to a laser like palate that seems bone dry despite its 1.4% residual sugar.  I'm tucking some of this away to enjoy on my 50th wedding anniversary -- in 2034.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition. 96 Rich Cook Sep 20, 2016

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling “Wonderland of the Eden Valley” 2018 ($60, Liberty Wines):  I’ve had the pleasure of raving about this wine for several vintages now, and I am happy to oblige yet again.  So aromatically sensual, so complexly layered with classic varietal flavors, and such a burst in the finish.  This area is on the top of my dream visit list for Riesling thanks to the annual success of this bottling.  If you’re a birth year saver and have a child or grandchild that you’d like to present a bottle with at their college graduation, you can’t go wrong with this one.   A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Feb 12, 2019

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling “Wonderland of the Eden Valley” 2021 ($60):  This is going to develop beautifully for a long time -- great structure carries tart citrus and granite minerality through a long finish -- and that’s with just a couple of months in the bottle.  I continue to be impressed with this producer, and their two Riesling bottlings always seem to rise to the top.  Eden Valley Riesling rocks!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.         
94 Rich Cook Jul 6, 2021

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling "Wonderland of the Eden Valley" 2017 ($60, Vine Street Imports ):  I’ve been following this wine for a few vintages now, and it never ceases to impress.  The 2017 continues the string with deep fruit intensity, intense stone minerality and razor sharp acidity that work in concert now, and promise cries of “encore!” far into the future.  World class juice.  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
94 Rich Cook Apr 3, 2018

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling "Wonderland of the Eden Valley" 2018 ($60):  Dandelion continues to hit it with this amazing Riesling -- I’m surprised that this is my first write up of this vintage.  It’s laser focused as always, and perhaps showing its pear and citrus fruit earlier than usual.  Great acidity carries the flavors through a seemingly endless finish, leaving you only with a desire for more of it.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
94 Rich Cook Jun 18, 2019

Heirloom Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling 2018 ($30):  Crisp, correct, delightfully dry Riesling that’s long on acidity, aroma, flavor and finish, showcasing peach and citrus, wet stone and spice notes.  A crisp aperitif, a salad course pairing or mild cheese friend -- you make the call.  The region continues to show a flair for the variety, and this is another in a line of what promise to be very long-lived wines.  A platinum Award winner at the 2019 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Feb 12, 2019

Heirloom Vineyards, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling 2015 ($25): This well balanced Aussie Riesling is very young, showing notes of lime citrus, with elements of stony minerality and crisp acidity.  Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Robert Whitley May 26, 2015

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling 1961 Block 2019 ($27, Winebow):  The Eden Valley of South Australia, with its higher elevation and spare soils, has proven to be an exceptional site for producing fine Rieslings.  The oldest vines on the estate are used in the 1961 Block Riesling.  These 50+ year-old vines yield a Riesling with added layers and elegance.  Pewsey Vale has long been a star producer from the High Eden for their estate Riesling and the 1961 Block Riesling adds an extra dimension of nuance and character.  It is hand harvested, fermented with native yeasts and given a few months of aging on the lees.  The result is a lovely and complex dry Riesling.  The bouquet is forward and enticing with a striking gardenia/floral component and an array of lime, tangerine, green and red apple fruit aromas.  It is clean, fresh and dry on the palate, with layers of pure fruit underlain by a rich texture and the intriguing floral and spice hints that linger at the finish.  Delicious now, the Pewsey Vale 1961 Block Riesling will age beautifully for a decade or more.           
93 Wayne Belding Apr 4, 2023

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (Australia) Dry Riesling 2016 ($18, Negotiants USA):  With assertive aromas and flavors this beautifully wrought wine is crisp and dry.  It has layered bright apple, citrus, fresh herbs and floral accents, along with hints of minerality and the petrol aromas characteristic of good Riesling.  Do not miss the opportunity to reward your taste buds with this thoroughly delicious wine. 
92 Marguerite Thomas May 15, 2018

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling 2017 ($19, Negociants USA):  I love this wine every year, and I buy it almost every year, and the happy fact of the matter is that I really don’t need more wine…or at least not than comes my way without buying any.  I’m not noting that to gloat, but rather to underline just how good this is for less than $20.  It shows fresh citrus aromas and light floral notes, followed by flavors that recall barely ripe peaches with a nice squeeze of lime and a little hint of flinty minerality in the finish.  The track record suggests convincingly that it will get even more complex aromatically for another two or three years without losing any of its refreshment value, though you’ll have difficulty not drinking it up well before then.  
92 Michael Franz Mar 26, 2019

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling Dry 2015 ($18, Negociants USA):  It isn't easy to know where to start with this...is it stronger as a value or as a wine, regardless of price?  Remarkably consistent from year to year, and delicious when first released but even better with a couple of years of cellaring, this is a bottle that I buy in almost every vintage.  Fruit notes of apple and citrus are accented with subtle floral scents and mineral / petrol undertones.  With age, these undertones rise to the fore but the fruit remains to keep this from seeming downright austere, though the acidity remains bracing for 5-7 years after release.  Right now, the 2014 is even better than this, and the 2016 is already released.  Which should you buy?  All three.  As for the value proposition, I've listed the base price, but this can be had for as low a price as $13 in multiple markets, which is truly astonishing for a wine with this level of developmental potential and sheer deliciousness.
91 Michael Franz Jun 27, 2017

Margaret River:

Red:

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz “Art Series” 2018 ($35, Old Bridge Cellars):  The Margaret River wine region is on Australia’s western shores surrounded by the Indian and Southern Oceans.  On a map it looks a bit like a pig’s snout.  The breeze from the surrounding oceans moderates the area’s Mediterranean climate.  Denis and Tricia Horgan converted their cattle farm to vineyards with advice from Robert Mondavi.  They released their first commercial wine in 1979.  Their 2018 Shiraz has a dense, dark ruby color that is very inviting in the glass.  Aromas of black fruits are layered with notes of strawberry vanilla, citrus and black pepper.  It is medium light bodied with flavors of blackberry, black plum, strawberry mingling with vanilla and baking spices brightened by crisp acidity followed by chalky tannins.  Serve it with a grilled steak or a mushroom Bourguignon.      
94 Rebecca Murphy Jan 17, 2023

Credaro, Margaret River (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Kinship” 2021 ($52):  This is a completely solid Aussie Cabernet, with telling but well-folded menthol notes balancing rich red fruit and riding supple tannins and lively acidity through a long, fully integrated finish.  I like it now for its youthful exuberance, but it’s got the stuffing to cellar for five to ten years if you are so inclined.          
93 Rich Cook Sep 6, 2022

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Filius” 2020 ($24):  Finding solid Cabernets under $25 can be a tall order these days, and it's why Vasse Felix's Filius Cabernet from Margaret River was such a pleasant surprise.  Established in 1967, Vasse Felix lauds itself as the original Margaret River winery.  In the 2020 Filius Cabernet, red currants, mint leaf, and violets all show through on the nose, while red and black fruits mix with plush tannins on the palate.  This wine shows decent complexity, and while full-bodied, it feels neither over-extracted nor overly alcoholic, with a respectable 14.5% abv.  While varietally labeled as Cabernet, Filius is technically only 89% Cabernet, blended with 10% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot.  The Malbec gives this wine a pleasant roundness but might be a touch high for my preference, as the acidity can't quite keep up.  That said, this is still a great Cabernet, especially at its price point.     
91 John McDermott Aug 15, 2023

White:

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Australia) Chardonnay Prelude Vineyards 2017 ($30, Old Bridge Cellars):  Treat yourself with an iconic Chardonnay from an iconic winery in Western Australia’s Margaret River.  Inviting, shimmering light, bright yellow colors introduce aromas of Meyer lemon zest and juice with saline notes.  The citrus theme continues in the mouth joined by ripe apple, pear and a touch of vanilla wrapped in creamy smoothness and lifted by crisp acidity.  No sharp edges here, just pure pleasure.  Denis Horgan was not looking for a vineyard site when he and his wife Tricia bought their Margaret River property in the early 1970s.  California pioneer vintner Robert Mondavi, who initially considered buying Horgan’s property, became their advisor.  He insisted that they plant Chardonnay, which was apparently uncommon in Australia at that time.        
96 Rebecca Murphy Mar 22, 2022

Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Vinework” 2021 ($27, RWG USA):  Xanadu’s rich and luxurious Vinework Chardonnay bookends beautifully with their Circa 77.  It is plush yet not heavy.  It may not have the alluring minerality of white Burgundy, but it does have the Burgundian sensibility of flavor without weight, as the 12.5 percent stated alcohol reflects.  Finesse and elegance combine with an ideal depth of flavor.  The less-is-more philosophy works well here.  While there are nuances of white peaches and citrus notes, the exact flavors are far less important than the overall impression: a balanced racy Chardonnay that’s a joy to drink.  And a bargain to boot!    
95 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2023

Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc – Semillon 2017 ($16):  This inviting white wine is fresh and vibrant, with hints of tropical fruits, a shot of citrus, and a spark of salinity on the finish.  I know from past experience that this white wine is a winning match for oysters.  Most recently I enjoyed it with roast salmon.  One reason the wine is so fresh tasting is that the fruit comes from the cooler, southern part of the Margaret River, and the grapes are harvested at night and early morning when temperatures are lower.  Fermentation occurred in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures, with about 2% fermented in oak.  With all this, plus a modest 11.7% alcohol, going for it this will be a perfect wine for spring and summer enjoyment.   
93 Marguerite Thomas Mar 29, 2022

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Australia) Riesling “Art Series” 2022 ($23, Old Bridge Cellars):  Denis Horgan, founder of Leeuwin Estate in the Western Australia’s Margaret River region, wasn’t planning to start a vineyard and winery when he bought a plumbing business in the 1960s.  In the 70s Robert Mondavi was looking for good vineyard land, which he found in Horgan’s site. With technical advice from Mondavi, Horgan went all in.  Tim Lovet, Senior Winemaker is responsible for this elegant and sophisticated wine with a mélange of citrus  flavors including lemon, lime and grapefruit layered with salty mineral notes.  It is bone dry, and intensified by zesty acidity, perfect for a shrimp or fresh fish ceviche.         
93 Rebecca Murphy Mar 19, 2024

Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon “Vinework” 2022 ($27, RWG USA):  Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that the blend, two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and one-third Semillon, is the signature of Western Australia, especially the Margaret River.  He treats the varieties differently, “no witchcraft” as he puts it for the Semillon, simply tank fermentation.  The Sauvignon Blanc, in contrast, receives lees stirring and oak fermentation.  Witchcraft or not, this is balanced beauty, a seamless combination that combines the energy, punch, and zing of Sauvignon Blanc with a subtle creaminess of Semillon.  It is remarkably long and graceful.  Plenty of balancing acidity keeps it lively and fresh.  In short, a delight to drink now with you name it.   
93 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2023

Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2021 ($18, Moet Hennessey USA):  This wine's aromas are led by vibrant lemon followed by lifted, mint aromas.  There is a hint of CO2 prickle when one first sips the wine.  Its flavors are composed of Meyer lemon, herbal, snap pea, and sapid green mint.  Medium-bodied with a bit more acidity than the norm for the breed, the alcohol is well balanced.  This offers a richer textural expression and better balance than the straight Sauvignon Blanc from the same producer.  The blend is 88% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Semillon, and the stated alcohol is 13.5%.    
90 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023

Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Circa 77” 2021 ($18, RWG USA):  The 77 moniker refers to 1977, the year Dr. John Lagan, an Irishman, founded Xanadu.  This light, fresh Chardonnay, weighing in at only 12.5 percent stated alcohol, will delight those who avoid the opulent buttery style of that varietal.  Seemingly unoaked and despite the lack of opulence, the Circa 77 Chardonnay has a wonderfully glossy texture.  Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that the wine was, in fact, aged entirely in oak barrels, all of which were several years old.  He ascribes the texture to the technique of stirring the lees, not oak aging.  Mild citrus notes amplify its stony character.           
89 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2023

McLaren Vale:

Red:

Robert Oatley, McClaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz 2010 ($20, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  When tasting the line of wines under the Robert Oatley label, it’s easy to understand how he turned Rosemount, the company he founded, into one of Australia’s most successful wineries.  This Shiraz combines the best of that grape’s dual personalities.  Intriguing gaminess plays off a dark plumy flavor resulting in both sweetness--not from sugar, but from ripeness--and a savory character.  It has enough structure to remind you it’s real wine without being intrusive or needing additional bottle aging.  It’s remarkably long and refined for a Aussie Shiraz, which has a reputation for being massive and overdone.  It would be a good choice for the end of summer beef on the grill. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 3, 2013

Alpha Crucis, McLaren Vale (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 'Titan' 2012 ($27): The Alpha Crucis 'Titan' Cab may well be one of the finest you will find at this price today. It delivers intensity and purity of flavor that would easily compete against wines at twice the price. This vintage exhibits a hint of eucalyptus and spice, dense layers of red and black fruits on the palate, and a long finish that is grippy now, but that should smooth out after another two or three years in the cellar.  A Platinum award winner at the 2014 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Robert Whitley Jun 17, 2014

Alpha Crucis, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz Titan 2013 ($24): "When you see the Southern Cross for the first time…" you may want to have a bottle of this along with you - in addition to pointing out the location of the star Alpha Crucis on the label, it's a fine glass of wine at a steal of a price.  Bright black cherry, blackberry and tar aromas lead to a palate that shows the lighter side of Aussie Shiraz - racy acidity keeps the well translated flavors lively and extends the integrated finish for a good while.  "What heaven brought you and me cannot be forgotten" and you'll have no trouble remembering this wine. Well Done!  And thanks to CSN&Y.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Mar 31, 2015

Dandelion Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz “Lioness of McLaren Vale” 2013 ($25): Seems that Dandelion Vineyards is constantly putting wines in the Platinum round at the Challenge Series wine competitions. This time around we've got a nicely priced package that features big cherry fruit with menthol and fresh brown spice, with balanced food friendly acidity and a sweet oak finish -- pheasant will come to life on your plate when paired with this lovely Shiraz.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Jun 2, 2015

Dandelion Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Petite Sirah “Midnight Rainbow of McLaren Vale” 2021 ($120):  Before you scoff at the seemingly outrageous price for this Petite Sirah, keep in mind that this stuff, handled properly, can age for decades and turn lovely in the process.  Of course, that doesn’t apply to every bottling, but I am confident that it does indeed apply to this bottling.  Dandelion has a track record for solid picking timing, proper structure, and overall deliciousness, and those are all present here, so even with a variety that’s newer to them, the results are spot on.  Decant for a day if you go in early, or lay it down for a long rest.     
95 Rich Cook Oct 3, 2023

Dandelion Vineyards , McLaren Vale (South Australia) “Moonrise Kingdom” 2021 ($120):  I don’t know if the fanciful name is a nod to Wes Anderson’s great motion picture, but I would say that the wine delivers the same combination of whimsy and depth that the film does.  A blend of Shiraz, Grenache and Petite Sirah, it’s bold in front, bolder in the middle and layered and deep on the finish.  I’m digging the blackberry liqueur vibe here – presented in dry style, it just works.        
95 Rich Cook Mar 7, 2023

Sister's Run, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz Epiphany Vineyard 2013 ($20): A big, bold expression of Shiraz that shows lots of oak, but it's very tasty oak that compliments vibrant blackberry, tar and mint flavors.  There's a citric vibe to the acidity that keeps the wine very lively and fresh on the palate and extends the finish.  Pork tenderloin, please!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Jun 2, 2015

Zonte's Footstep, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz Petite Sirah Z-Force 2015 ($55): This is an unusual blend for Australia but Zonte's Footstep nails it. They've managed to tame the aggressive tannins of the petite sirah grape and the combination of petite with syrah in this expression soars. Loads of blueberry and red-fruit notes, spicy, with impressive length and a very long finish. A stunning wine. Also a platinum award-winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 95 Robert Whitley Mar 27, 2018

Angove, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz “Family Crest” 2015 ($22, Trinchero Family Estates): A textbook example of balance, showing all the best attributes of Shiraz, with savory, minty and fruity characters all correct and not vying for attention on themselves.  A delightful solo glass, or a great pair for roast chicken or game birds.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Rich Cook Apr 4, 2017

Angove Family Winemakers, McLaren Vale (Australia) Grenache Syrah Mourvedre "Family Crest" 2017 ($22):  A fine value in a bold, oak spice driven GSM, with plenty of blackberry, blueberry and tarry aromas and flavors that are up to the spice load and come to the front with a nice finish push.  Big red meat dishes are the way to go here.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.  
94 Rich Cook Apr 16, 2019

Chalk Hill, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ($18):  With a pronounced note of mint and spice on the nose, this is a wine that definitely speaks Australian. On the palate it shows layers of gorgeous black fruits, a bit hit of vanilla, and supple tannins. Makes me want to fire up the barbie and toss a thick steak on the fire! A platinum award-winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

Dandelion Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz “Lioness of the McLaren Vale” 2016 ($27, Vine Street Imports): Elegant and Shiraz usually aren't words found in the same sentence, but here we are with this glass of flowers, orange zest, red fruit and mild meaty notes that shows what's possible with the grape in McLaren Vale.  No doubt recently bottled, it's got some gorgeous development ahead.  Another great wine from Dandelion!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Rich Cook Apr 11, 2017

Dandelion Vineyards, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz Lioness of McLaren Vale 2015 ($15): Dandelion Vineyards has emerged in recent years as the lion (or lioness) that roared in U.S. wine competitions. Wines like this explain that circumstance quite nicely. Rich and layered red fruits combined with beautifully integrated oak, a note of eucalyptus and spice with exceptional persistence through the finish, and you have a remarkable wine for an equally remarkable (as in well below its true value) price. A platinum award-winner at the San Diego International Wine Challenge.
94 Robert Whitley May 31, 2016

Dandelion Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz "Lion’s Tooth of McLaren Vale" 2017 ($28, Vine Street Imports):  Five percent Riesling in the mix serves to both brighten the nose and liven up the acid structure in this tasty Shiraz that shows tamed mint and menthol over juicy black and blue fruit, with a little touch of oak smoke and spice adding depth and character.  The finish is where it really comes on, blowing flavors out and enticing you to have another taste.  There’s an elegance to the region when it comes to this grape.  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
94 Rich Cook Apr 3, 2018

Dandelion Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz "Lioness of McLaren Vale" 2017 ($28, Vine Street Imports):  A bold yet refined expression, with a place for everything and everything in its place.  Blackberry, plum, pepper, tar and spice get a nice push from a balanced mint note, and all finish at length together.  A big beefy meal is in order here.  A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
94 Rich Cook Apr 3, 2018

Dandelion Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz-Riesling “Lion’s Tooth of McLaren Vale” 2017 ($28, Liberty Wines):  Delicious Shiraz that really benefits from the addition of 5% Riesling.  That small amount of white wine helps pop the aromatics open and adds a zing to the acidity.  It works like a charm here, helping to showcase ripe berry flavors, soft pepper and integrated oak spice that come across in a mouth filling texture and linger long in let’s have some more fashion.   A star from the region.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Feb 12, 2019

Dandelion Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz - Riesling “Lion’s Tooth of McLaren Vale” 2018 ($28):  This bottling is long on white pepper that’s managed beautifully by rich black and blue berry fruit, and the Riesling serves to prop up the floral note in the aroma profile while adding some acidity on the palate.  There’s some firmness here, so decant near term or age a few years -- then bring on the meats!  Any kind will do.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.  
94 Rich Cook Feb 4, 2020

Dandelion Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz “Lioness of McLaren Vale” 2019 ($30):  Dandelion Vineyards is a dependable label that always succeeds at showing a sense of place, and the Lioness roars it out appropriately with black and blue fruit and signature McLaren Vale eucalyptus note that are well folded into the mix.  Great extraction!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.       
94 Rich Cook Apr 20, 2021

Heirloom Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz 2018 ($35):  Raspberry and boysenberry aromas leap from the glass here, and they translate nicely through a fair amount of oak spice.  As the spice integrates with a little time, and the fruit softens a bit, this will achieve the elusive bold elegance that the best Shiraz is famed for.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.   
94 Rich Cook Feb 4, 2020

Heirloom Vineyards, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz 2017 ($35):  A pepper focused offering, with savory notes of meat and earth joining deep berry fruit in a sturdy package that should unwind beautifully with further bottle aging.  This will stand up to brightly spiced beef preparations.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
94 Rich Cook Jun 25, 2019

Kay Brothers, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz Amery Vineyard “Block 6” 2017 ($120, Quintessential Wines):  There’s a lot to like in this classy expression of McLaren Vale Shiraz.  It’s a fairly late release from the vintage, but the layered aromatics and lively structure certainly make it seem worth the wait.  Rich blackberry and blueberry pie introduce the nose, followed by notes of gingerbread and soft white pepper.  On the palate these elements find voice clearly, with the pepper coming slightly forward in the finish. It’s the acid balance that makes it all work here, and it serves to extend the finish.  Lamb time.     
94 Rich Cook Apr 27, 2021

S.C. Pannell, McLaren Vale (Australia) Tempranillo "Dead End" 2019 ($28, Vine Street Imports):  Tempranillo is a grape variety most commonly associated with Spain.  However, this Iberian Peninsula variety is also climatically suitable to the South Australian wine-growing region, resulting in wines with brilliant balance, complexity, and flavor like this McLaren Vale Tempranillo.  This vibrant and complex wine comes from Stephen Pannell, one of Australia’s most imaginative winemakers.  He’s a Jimmy Watson Trophy winner, a McLaren Vale Bushing King winner, a two-time Max Schubert Trophy winner, International Red Winemaker of the Year, and Decanter Magazine’s 50 Most Influential Contributors to the World of Wine.  His 2017 "Dead End" (referencing vineyards at the dead end of Amery Road) is vibrant and complex with flavors of fresh red and black cherries, sweet licorice, black tea, and orange peel that lead to persistent tannins that carry through to a long and opulent finish.                
94 Miranda Franco Oct 25, 2022

Sister's Run, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz "Epiphany" 2017 ($20): The McLaren Vale district is famous for its well-balanced Shiraz, in contrast to the riper, heavier Shiraz from the nearby Barossa Valley.  The Sister's Run Epiphany is in that mold.  With exquisite balance and exceptional fruit purity, this is a wonderful example of what McLaren Vale can produce.  This vintage shows ripe blueberry fruit with a lovely back note of wood spice.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Sep 25, 2018

Wakefield / Taylors, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz “Masterstroke” 2019 ($50):  I really appreciate this brand's continued effort to deliver quality Shiraz at several price points.  This new artist series line adds another layer to the strata, and it’s another quality offering.  The expected regional mint/menthol accents are well folded in, joining black fruit, tar and spice.  Nicely done!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
94 Rich Cook Oct 12, 2021

Angove, McLaren Vale (Australia) Grenache Shiraz Warboys Vineyard 2010 ($75, Trinchero Family Estates): Made from grapes (Grenache 60% and Shiraz 40%)cultivated in a certified organic and selected Biodynamic vineyard, this is Angove’s very Australian contribution to the increasing popular market of blended red wines.  It’s lip-smackingly good, churning with those appetite inducing licorice/anise flavors characteristic of Shiraz plus the bright berry pie nuances of Grenache.  Muscular and energetic, this is nevertheless exceedingly refined (picture Cary Grant in the weight room at the gym and you’ll get the idea).
93 Marguerite Thomas Oct 8, 2013

Kay Brothers, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz “Hillside” 2019 ($60, Quintessential Wines):  Kay Brothers "Hillside" is a very enjoyable Shiraz, one where the regional menthol character is nicely folded into plush black fruit and accented with notes of pepper and tar.  Supple texture and bright acidity keep the flavor elements pulsing through a long integrated finish that will have you coming back for more.  This would serve well with lamb of course, but it is more versatile than that.  Try it with seared Ahi or barbecue if you dare.        
93 Rich Cook Sep 20, 2022

Vintage Longbottom, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz “Magnus, Henry’s Drive” 2019 ($80, Quintessential Wines):  Full throttle blueberry pie aromas get your attention right up front on the nose, with mild meaty and peppery notes joining in.  The palate is plush on entry, but firms up well in the middle with a little vanilla flavor peeking through.  The finish is long and tarry in the way that lovers of the variety will certainly appreciate.  It's a refined rather than rustic expression that's built for solo enjoyment or milder beef preparations.         
93 Rich Cook Feb 15, 2022

Yangarra Estate, McLaren Vale (Australia) Grenache Old Vine 2012 ($32, Majestic Imports): This black cherry bomb comes to us from a dry farmed vineyard of what the Aussies call "bush vines" -- we say “head pruned” in California -- that was planted in 1946.  The wine was fermented on wild yeast, meaning that the winemaker didn't select particular strains of yeast in order to aim at a certain flavor profile.  The result here is marvelous -- very forward aromas of black cherry, vanilla and fall spice blow out of the glass, followed up by a bright palate of cherry, leafy dried herb, white pepper, dill and spice, with a firm grip and some oak that's yet to integrate fully, but will come into balance nicely with a bit of bottle age.  Very attractive!
93 Rich Cook Dec 23, 2014

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz – Viognier “The Laughing Magpie” 2014 ($26, Old Bridge Cellars):  Wines from d’Arenberg always offer up a lot of fun, starting with their quirky names and interesting labels.  But make no mistake:  This is a top-shelf winery that excels at every price level in the portfolio.  This nicely mature current release shows plenty of punch to identify it as an Aussie Shiraz, but time in bottle plus a little dollop of Viognier add real complexity and class, with almost no overt wood.  Very polished tannins lend enough grip to the finish to enable this to work well with a rack of Australian lamb, but it is so versatile that it would also pair very nicely with pork, duck or veal.    
92 Michael Franz Nov 5, 2019

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz / Viognier "The Laughing Magpie" 2009 ($29, Old Bridge Cellars): By blending a touch of Viognier with the Shiraz, as in the custom in France’s Côte Rôtie, d’Arenberg has created a more layered wine compared to their super-value The Stump Jump.   Both flowery and gamey, it is balanced, not bombastic.  A wonderful lifted quality prevents it from being ponderous.  Subtle peppery notes stud its appealing texture.  If The Stump Jump is wool, this one is a very fine lambswool.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (Australia) “The Cadenzia” 2009 ($30, Old Bridge Cellars): Aromas of tart cherry, leaf, blueberry, fall spice, sweet sage, and medium oak toast become evident after some swirling off of this slightly reduced wine.  On the palate it's dry, showing a soft feel with bright mouth-watering acidity, and it carries its oak very nicely.  Citric tones come forward in a long, food friendly finish.  It really comes on with some time in the glass into a well-rounded package on the leaner side of the Aussie style.  Contains 50% Grenache, 45% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre.
92 Rich Cook May 13, 2014

Henry’s Drive, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($50, Quintessential Wines): I like the power of red fruit over the more typical black fruit in this glass, with notes of pepper and cedar chest adding interest.  The oak toast level seems to be just right here, and it keeps the fruit pumping right alongside in the finish without covering it up. This will work with meats of all kinds -- I’m leaning toward well marbled ribeye.      
92 Rich Cook Sep 7, 2021

Mr. Riggs, McLaren Vale (Australia) 'Three Corner Jack' 2014 ($14): Wanna take an inexpensive trip to the dark side?  Blackberry, tar, oak toast and spice all mingle throughout the proceedings, with an emphasis on the oak and spice in the long finish.  This might just be your summer grilling go-to bottle.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 92 Rich Cook Jun 7, 2016

Robert Oatley, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2012 ($20, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): This is the kind of wine that made Australian Shiraz famous.  It’s a little meaty, a little spicy, a little fruity and most importantly, not over done, alcoholic or over wrought.  I’d even say it’s graceful, word rarely used to describe Australian Shiraz, and when it is, it’s describing a wine that’s far more expensive than this one.  This easy-to-recommend red is perfect for any meat you’re throwing on the barbie.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 9, 2014

Thomas Goss, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz 2016 ($18, Wine Trees):  Full bodied and teeming with dark fruit flavors plus a touch of spice, this generous wine will reward you further with its long and tasty finish.  Add the fairly discreet tannins to all its other pluses, and this is a wine that will have you thinking it’s time to throw a steak on the barbie. 
92 Marguerite Thomas May 15, 2018

Vintage Longbottom, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz Grenache Mourvedre "Henry’s Drive" 2020 ($50, Quintessential Wines):   Here’s a solid representative of GSM style — or SGM in this particular case — with Aussie flair.  Black fruit, tar, pepper and menthol are folded finely together and stay that way through a lingering finish.  This will run the gamut with the meat side of the menu.  To my taste, there’s been a turn toward the good at this producer of late!          
92 Rich Cook Feb 15, 2022

Yangarra Estate Vineyard, McLaren Vale (Australia) Grenache "Old Vine" 2011 ($32, Sovereign Wine Imports): 66 year-old dry farmed, free standing bush vines can tell a story of the vintage when handled with care, and this Grenache from Yangarra spins a beautiful tale of one of the coolest, wettest years ever in McLaren Vale.  Low yields and careful bunch selection to sort out rot and mold have produced a brilliant ruby red wine with aromas of cherry, raspberry, white pepper and fennel.  Vibrant acidity helps translate the aromas directly into flavors on the palate, and keeps things lively through the long, zesty finish.   It’s really begging for food -- I’d go for lamb.  Nicely done!
92 Rich Cook Jul 9, 2013

Angove, McLaren Vale (Australia) “Dr. Angove The Recipe” 2012 ($13, Trinchero Family Estates): The estate’s founder (in 1886) was William Angove, a medical doctor who began making wine as a tonic for his patients.  While a few complained that the treatment didn’t cure their ailments, everybody liked the wine.  Five generations later the Angove family does not dispense medical advice, but does turn out some impressive wines.  “Dr. Angove ‘The Recipe,’” which was launched earlier this year, is elegantly restrained in texture but still ripe and juicy in its flavors, and it’s a wine you definitely want to try.  Shiraz contributes spice to the blend, the old vine Grenache gives it that fresh, fruity appeal, while the Petit Verdot adds a subtle underpinning of dark, brooding mystery.  Because The Recipe fuses together delicacy and power it’s one of those rare red wines that is sippable on its own -- and of course it shines with food.  It’s a steal at this price.
91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 1, 2013

Coriole, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 'Redstone' 2008 ($14, The Country Vintner):

 A juicy but still well-balanced and appropriately structured wine, with red fruit flavors and a deliciously spicy undertone that carries well into the finish.  Though full-bodied, it has a lithe quality that should enable it to perform well even on hot days, so will be a good choice to accompany barbecues in the months ahead.

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "The Stump Jump" 2009 ($12, Old Bridge Cellars): I’m the sort of person who can’t just gloss over the name “Stump Jump” without wanting to know what it means.  (Perhaps another way of putting it is that I’m easily distracted).  If you don’t share my curiosity about such things, then go read someone else’s review, but in case you’re interested, here, in abbreviated form, is what I’ve learned:  A stump jump is a specific sort of plough, invented in South Australia to pull out stubborn tree stumps that made cultivating the scrublands almost impossible.  The invention of the stump jump, by a pair of brothers in the mid 19th century, allowed vast tracts of land to be opened up to agriculture (including viticulture).  D’Arenberg’s Cabernet, named in honor of this humble but essential piece of farm equipment, is as bold and bodacious as Australia’s pioneering grape-growers.  Sumptuously stuffed with fruitiness, and with a specific sort of oak-induced aroma that reminds me of a painter’s studio, the wine’s rush of virile flavor is irresistible.
90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 4, 2014

Robert Oatley, McLaren Vale (Australia) 'GSM' 2014 ($20):  Robert Oatley's 2014 GSM is a meaty red that shows both red and blue-fruit aromas with hints of woodsmoke. On the palate the wine is big and bold, with good density. The tannins are nicely integrated, making for easy near-term consumption.
90 Robert Whitley Aug 9, 2016

Robert Oatley, McLaren Vale (Australia) GSM 2014 ($20, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): Full of ripe fruit (from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, as you’d guess) with a dash of spice in the bouquet, this is a fun-filled wine that provides immediate gratification.  Though not especially complex, it offers deliciously opulent flavors, and is a delight to drink right now.
90 Paul Lukacs Sep 22, 2015

Yangarra, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz Estate Vineyard 2010 ($25, Sovereign Wine Imports): This wine is both sweet (from super ripe grapes) and tangy with a taste that brought to my mind chocolate laced with balsamic vinegar (and I mean this in a good way).  With its well-balanced rich fruit and oak flavors and medium weight body, this dark, garnet colored Shiraz is a winning wine for many different foods, including pasta, poultry and certainly any grilled meats, from sausage to steak.
90 Marguerite Thomas May 20, 2014

Yangarra, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) 'Cadenzia' 2007 ($25, Sovereign Wine Imports): Cadenzia is a GSM, grenache, syran and mourvedre, a popular Rhone-style blend produced throughout Australia, and this is one of the good ones. It shows exceptional depth and power, a blend of red and black fruits, good persistence of flavor through the finish, and the only off note is the slight presence of drying wood tannin. Drink it young and don't look back! 90 Robert Whitley Aug 25, 2009

Paxton, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz "NOW" 2022 ($23, Winebow): The “NOW” is the producer’s acronym for “natural organic wine,” and this one lives up to the profile of many natural-style wines.  It is lean and spicy with blackberry and black raspberry flavors and some green herbal notes, is lighter in body and has a straightforward linear structure.                   
89 Roger Morris Mar 26, 2024

Robert Oatley, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2012 ($20): When the menu calls for a modestly priced, spicy shiraz (think barbecued chicken or ribs) this Oatley Shiraz from McLaren Vale should do the trick. It shows delicious blueberry fruit aroma, warm wood notes and a long, spicy finish. And it won't break the bank. 89 Robert Whitley Jul 15, 2014

White:

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Viognier Marsanne 'The Hermit Crab' 2012 ($17, Old Bridge Cellars): This wine just screams for seafood -- in the best way possible.  It even smells like the ocean, with hints of fresh sea spray intertwined with grilled white peach and spicy honeysuckle.  On the palate, it's very crisp and vibrant, and delivers the slightest briny note with the fruit elements, and cleansing acidity that leaves the grilled peach and a bit of lime zest to refresh you for the next bite.  Of what, you ask?  Oysters, scallops or lemon-focused fish preps will work splendidly.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2014 Sommelier Challenge. 94 Rich Cook Sep 23, 2014

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Riesling “The Dry Dam” 2010 ($17, Old Bridge Cellars): With so much less expensive Riesling on the market, consumers might pass over this one. That would be a mistake. This bracing wine has a racy mouth cleansing zing and lots of minerality. Hints of spice and citrus emerge in its seemingly endless finish. Taut and vibrant, it will cut through any flavor on the table, making it extraordinary versatile with food. Its reverberating vibrancy allows you to enjoy it with anything from spicy Asian fare to a steak, really.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013

Mr. Riggs, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Mrs. Viognier 2015 ($24):  This delicate viognier from Mr. Riggs is made in the Condrieu style, meaning simply that it as tight and restrained in its youth but possesses plenty of flavor and spice that is lurking in the background until the wine slowly reaches maturity. I would give this beauty another three to five years in the cellar. It shows a gentle spice on the nose and delicate notes of apricot and peach on the palate, and is extremely well balanced. A platinum award-winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge.
93 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

Yangarra, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Roussanne “Roux Beauté” 2017 ($50, Sovereign Wine Imports):  Roussanne, an important white grape in the Rhône Valley, has taken hold in Australia.  Though usually blended with Marsanne and other varieties, Yangarra uses it exclusively in this wine.  The grape takes its name from the russet (roux) like color of the mature grapes, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes.  That explains the name Yangarra uses for the wine.  It's apt because the wine is beautiful, though not for everyone.  You need to like minerals and bitterness.  Slightly floral, it conveys stone fruit-like flavors with a hint of bitterness in the finish.  Though by no means voluptuous, it is gorgeously textured.  It expands and draws you in as it sits in the glass.  The wine screams for food, a sautéed chicken with mushrooms, perhaps.   
92 Michael Apstein Mar 31, 2020

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (Australia) Viognier - Marsanne "The Hermit Crab" 2020 ($15):  Well-known for its success with red Rhône-style wines, d’Arenberg has upped its game with this 2020 white blend.  The winery recently converted all vineyards over to sustainable farming.  For this white, a portion of the Viognier was fermented and then aged in French oak for 8 months.  Pale yellow, the wine offers a pleasing mix aroma of lemon drop, orange rind with a hint of ginger.  It is smooth and slightly viscous on the palate, yet the generous flavors are balanced and kept alive by good acidity.  It holds up well a day after being opened, and best of all, it is widely available and nicely priced.    
91 Norm Roby Oct 26, 2021

Yangarra, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Roussanne 2009 ($29, Sovereign Wine Imports):  It’s rare to find an Australian white wine (at least a young one, as older Hunter Valley Semillons don’t count) that tastes earthy.  This one, though, does just that, exhibiting the sort of nutty, even dusty flavors that characterize fine whites from the northern Rhône Valley in France.  Its fruit does seem more vibrant and expressive than the flavors in those French counterparts, but it’s stylistically comparable and quite compelling. 90 Paul Lukacs Sep 27, 2011

New South Wales:

Red:

Inkberry, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz – Cabernet 2008 ($12, Lion Nathan USA):  A 60/40 blend, of Shiraz and Cabernet, with deeply pigmented fruit that lives up to the wine’s name, this is a wine that announces itself loudly.  However, it is not just another Aussie fruit bomb, as there’s real freshness and cut to the fruit provided by wonderfully fresh acidity.  There’s also a nice, soft roundness to the tannins, with the wine’sstructure being provided by all that mouth-watering acidity.  Interesting and quite well made, this would be a great choice to accompany braised lamb shanks. 89 Michael Franz Jan 5, 2010

Wild Oats, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2011 ($15, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): A very nice, medium bodied, red fruit driven Shiraz from the Robert Oatley family of wines that's got a lot of stuffing for the price.  Raspberry, cherry, plum, vanilla, fall spice and mild meaty flavors are complimented with hints of roasted coffee and baker's chocolate.  Citrus zest keeps the finish lively, making this an excellent autumn quaffer that could pair well with bold appetizers.
89 Rich Cook Nov 18, 2014

Wild Oats, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2011 ($13, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): Robert Oatley, the man who founded Rosemount, one of Australia’s best and most successful wineries, now makes distinctive and easy to recommend wines under his own name. His remarkable talent is easy to see in the quality of his second wines, which he labels Wild Oats. Despite its restraint, this ready-to-drink Shiraz delivers plenty of punch. Gamey notes accent the bright ripe dark fruit element adding unexpected complexity at this price. It’s a superb good buy.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2013

Tyrrell’s, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz “Vat 9, Winemaker’s Selection” 2014 ($49, Broadbent Selections):  Edward Tyrrell from England established his family’s winery in the Hunter Valley of New South Wales in Australia in 1858.  Today the winery is in the hands of Bruce Tyrrell and his three children.  They consider the 2014 one of the best vintages for this wine, and it is certainly showing well today.  It has a smooth as silk texture with juicy, ripe blackberry, strawberry, plum fruit spiced with black pepper balanced with lively acidity and burnished tannins.  Serve it with roast chicken or a mushroom ragout.    
93 Rebecca Murphy May 24, 2022

Lake's Folly, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) "Lake's Folly" 1999 ($69, Boutique International): This is one of Australia's most highly regarded reds, and though the 1999 is fully mature, it is available now as a current release from U.S. importer Boutique International. Comprised of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petite Verdot, 10% Shiraz and 8% Merlot, it strikes an admirable balance between sophisticated complexity on the one hand and depth of flavor on the other. Layers of subtle nuances arise from a foundation of black cherry and blackberry fruit, with all the wood-based notes thoroughly woven into a seamless finished product. Stylish but deeply satisfying, this is a great bottle. 92 Michael Franz May 23, 2006

The Six Masters, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($20, America Uncorked): Hunter Valley Shiraz often manages to avoid the ripe, jammy characters associated with Aussie Shiraz. The Six Masters '04 delivers a nicely balanced expression of Hunter Valley Shiraz that shows a subtle peppery nuance along with seductively soft black and red fruits and an intriguing note of licorice. 89 Robert Whitley Oct 21, 2008

Wyndham Estate, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz “Black Cluster” 2003 ($40, Pernod Ricard): A big, powerful Shiraz, marked by muscle and brawn.  Though over five years old, it still seems tight and backward, so definitely will benefit from decanting.  My one reservation was that secondary aromas and flavors seemed very subtle.  Perhaps with time, when the tannins soften, they will become more prominent? 88 Paul Lukacs Nov 11, 2008

Hope Estate, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2007 ($13, Winesellers, Ltd.): A very tasty wine at an attractive price, this features ripe (but not over-ripe) notes of red and black berries.  Full of flavor but really only medium-bodied, with very soft tannins but still enough structure to work with moderately robust foods, this should work especially well with grilled pork chops. 87 Michael Franz Jul 21, 2009

James Oatley Tic Tok, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($14, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  The key to this fruity Cabernet was aging in used French oak then blending that component with a portion that was kept in stainless steel tanks.  Fermenting on the skins gave the wine a deep plum-red color, while the aging regimen yielded a dense ripe berry nose with cedar and leafy notes.  Rounding out this very drinkable Cabernet are bright fruit, good texture, refined tannins, 14.5% alcohol and good length. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 14, 2011

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot 2007 ($20):  A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and 49% Merlot, all from Mudgee, is matured for 12 months in French oak barrels,  This near-equal blend highlights the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon and the weight and texture of Merlot for a wine with earthy-herbal accents combined with ripe blackberry and toasted oak.  The tannins are nicely integrated and it has good fruit through the finish at 13% alcohol.  An impressive blend that’s drinking nicely now but will age further. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 3, 2009

Rosemount, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz “Show Reserve” 2005 ($18, FWE Imports): This wine has considerably more finesse than I remember from past vintages, perhaps because of greater maturity of the vines.  Whatever the explanation, it offers just about everything you might want from an affordable Aussie Shiraz: black pepper and other spice, smokiness, mocha, vanilla and ripe plums, all of it balanced by a sweep of fine tannins on the finish. 90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 30, 2007

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot 2007 ($20, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  This very well made wine shows very appealing texture with ripe but fresh fruit and impressively polished tannins.  Notes of black plums and black cherries are fresh and pure, with subtle accents of spices and smoke. The finish is very soft but still fresh thanks to a streak of bright acidity.  This should work very well with moderately robust meat dishes such as roast beef or grilled veal. 89 Michael Franz Nov 10, 2009

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2007 ($20, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  This is not your typical Aussie Shiraz.  It’s from Mudgee, not Barossa, McLaren Vale or Margaret River, the alcohol is a moderate 13.5% and it was aged for 12 months in both American and French oak.  The color is a deep ruby and the nose hints at black fruits and a touch of toasted oak, while the medium-weight flavors mingle the berry accents with traces of roasted nuts and coffee. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 3, 2009

Rosemount, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Show Reserve" 2005 ($16, FWE Imports): This medium weight Cab has an intriguing dry-mint aspect that balances the richer mocha/juicy fruit/vanilla elements.   It's a refined rather than a powerhouse version of Aussie Cab. 89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 30, 2007

James Oatley Tic Tok, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2009 ($14, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  The same oak and steel aging regimen used on the Tic Tok Cabernet (also reviewed this week) was also employed for this Mudgee Shiraz, resulting in a wine with a deep ruby color, forward plum and berry aromatics with spicy oak notes, medium fruit and tannins, 14% alcohol, and good length through the finish.  This is a leaner style of Aussie Shiraz than many we see in the U.S. market. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 14, 2011

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2007 ($20, Oatley Wines):

Notes of blueberry and spice dominate this Rhone-style (13.5 percent alcohol) Syrah from Oatley's estate vineyards in Mudgee. This restrained style is unusual for Aussie Shriaz, and it works in this case. The wine has sufficient weight on the palate, but more telling is the length in the mouth and interesting complexities of dried herbs, licorice, minerality and earth.

Rosemount, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz "Show Reserve" 2005 ($16, FWE Imports): An excellent wine for the money, this Shiraz delivers lots of flavor but never comes off as heavy or overdone.  Berry fruit shows both red and black notes, and there's a purity and freshness that is quite endearing.  Oak shows up mostly in the finish, where it joins some fine-grained tannin to firm and focus the wine's aftertaste. 88 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2008

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2007 ($20): Oatley is a huge name in the Australian wine industry, having founded Rosemount, a company whose wines  helped spread the popularity of Australian wines in general. So when he starts a new label and chooses Mudgee, not the most well-known area in Australia for premium grapes, everyone takes notice.  This noteworthy Shiraz combines both the peppery notes and plum-like flavors associated with the varietal.  And it weighs in at less than 13.5% alcohol, an unusual feat for New World Syrah.  They've turned down the volume so you can enjoy the music. 86 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008

Rosemount, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Show Reserve" 2005 ($16, FWE Imports): Rosemount has re-launched its Show Reserve line, which includes two Cabernets.  This Mudgee bottling is much the softer of the two, without the acidic structure of the bright, taut Coonawarra release.  Fruit notes of plums and dark cherries are juicy and inviting, with soft, rounded tannins making for a smooth, delicate drink.  Cabernet generally doesn't make a good sipping wine, but this is an exception. 86 Michael Franz Nov 20, 2007

Climbing, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) Merlot 2005 ($14, Cumulus Wines Inc.): Winemaker Philip Shaw bypassed the crusher with the fruit for this wine, preferring to crush the whole clusters of Merlot to capture the lush fruit.  The wine was aged in French oak for 14 months, followed by a light egg fining and filtering.  Although the nose is a little closed now, inviting scents of ripe berry and spice come through.  The flavors are lush and nicely structured with black cherry notes and firm refined tannins, with good length and structure.  If you think all New World Merlots are too fleshy and awkward, climb onto this one. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Climbing, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($14, Cumulus Wines Inc.): Winemaker Philip Shaw was after maximum color and extraction with this Cabernet Sauvignon, employing pump-over and extended maceration.  Light pressings followed, then aging in both French and American oak before fining and filtering prior to bottling.  The nose has layers of bright berry and spice, while the textured, mouth-filling flavors show bright fruit and spicy oak.  The excellent balance follows through to the finish.  In all, this is a well balanced Cabernet with bright fruit and an attractive price. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Philip Shaw, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) Pinot Noir “No. 8” 2005 ($40, Cumulus Wines Inc.): This is Shaw's first Pinot Noir from the Koomooloo Vineyard, so he called it No. 8, a Chinese lucky number.  Shaw admits that he worries mainly about fruit flavor, and although Pinot Noir is famously a worrisome grape, he needn't have fretted over this Pinot.  A slight touch of eucalyptus enhances the black fruit aromas of this lovely Pinot.  The moderately intense flavors are richly textured and supple, showing hints of cloves, black cherry and menthol.  The subtle oak in this wine lends a supporting role. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Cumulus, Orange (Australia) Cabernet/Merlot "Rolling" 2004 ($13, Cumulus Imports/ Paramount Distributors): In 1982, at the age of 24, Philip Shaw was head winemaker at Lindemans, where he helped set the standard for Australian winemaking. At Rosemount, he was instrumental in creating the Aussie Shiraz boom. Now the Senior Winemaker at Cumulus, a young winery founded in 2003 in New South Wales, Shaw is crafting wines under the jaunty "Rolling" and "Climbing" labels. Orange, located 125 miles west of Sydney, is one of Australia's highest and coolest vineyard regions (it is notable, also, for unusually bright and intense sunlight). This surprisingly gentle blend of Cabernet (70%) and Merlot (30%) glides smoothly across the palate. Vibrant and well balanced, this wine provides a lot of pleasure for a modest price. 89 Marguerite Thomas Feb 21, 2006

Philip Shaw, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet “No. 17” 2005 ($25, Cumulus Wines Inc.): Popularly known as 'the Merlot Blend,' this Bordeaux-style red seems disjointed, missing the lovely lush fruit of the varietal Merlot in Shaw's 'Climbing' range, while showing the leafy herbal character of Cabernet Sauvignon.  There are bright blueberry notes in the shy nose, but the flavors, while showing a modest level of herbal fruit, are masked with tangy acidity.  No. 17 is a stylized Bordeaux blend that will likely appeal to those who prefer their reds with a lot of acidity; unfortunately only 975 cases were made. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Climbing, Oregon (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2005 ($14, Cumulus Wines Inc.): Shiraz is Australia's iconic red wine.  Go anywhere wine is made in Oz and you'll find a unique style of Shiraz, including this intense example from the cool climate of Orange, New South Wales.  Textured with lovely dark fruit flavors, hints of anise, and firm tannins, this Shiraz avoids the big, chewy styles so often associated with Australian Syrah.  It has a good oak-fruit balance and, despite the 14% alcohol, no heat. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Calabria, Riverina (New South Wales, Australia) Durif "Three Bridges" 2014 ($25, Vineyard Brands):  This deep, dark purple wine resonates with blue and black fruits along with hints of dark chocolate and spicy oak.  Added to all this are the vibrant acidity and vigorous tannins typical of Durif, a grape also known as Petite Sirah. 
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 24, 2018

Calabria, Riverina (New South Wales, Australia) Durif "Three Bridges" 2013 ($25, Vineyard Brands): Inky dark in color, this wine teems with the ripe fruitiness of a sunny climate, and the spice of American oak further heightens its flavor.  Calabria also has lively tannins and a firm, forceful finish.  It’s a wine made for steak, burgers, ribs -- any good red meat would be a perfect partner. Even a meatless tomato-sauced pasta with plenty of spice would be a good match.
91 Marguerite Thomas Nov 1, 2016

Rosé:

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Rose of Sangiovese 2008 ($18, Oatley Wines):

Those fond of the dry Rose wines of southern France, particularly those of Provence, will appreciate the subtle beauty of this Rose of Sangiovese. It's not overtly fruity, and the notes of dried cherry and strawberry are delicious though restrained, making it a perfect complement for raw clams and oysters as well as heartier seafood dishes such as Provencal stew or grilled salmon.

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Rosé of Sangiovese 2010 ($16, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  This Mediterranean-styled rosé is marked by strawberry and cherry fruit flavors with slightly chalky undertones that add intrigue.  Legitimately dry, it tastes crisp and refreshing, with nothing remotely candied about it (unlike many rosés these days).  A delightful summer sipper, it will be right at home in a picnic basket.
89 Paul Lukacs May 17, 2011

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Rosé of Sangiovese 2008 ($18, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  I’m a sucker for a good rosé and this one is a delight.  Produced by the “saignee” method, where the wine is drained (or “bled”) off the skins after a short contact, giving the wine as light salmon-pink color.  Ripe strawberry aromas lead to forward flavors with berry notes, brisk acidity, 13% alcohol, and a long dry finish with medium fruit.  Bottled under a screw cap, this rosé is a crisp quaffing wine or a nice match with a variety of light foods and hors d’oeuvres. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 3, 2009

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Rosé of Sangiovese 2009 ($15, Robert Oatley Vineyards LLC):  Weightier than many rosés, this youthful wine will show best if paired with fairly hearty foods comes summer picnic time.  Its dark cherry and red berry flavors prove very appetizing. 88 Paul Lukacs May 25, 2010

Gilbert Family Wines, New South Wales (Australia) Rosé 2020 ($18, Little Peacock Imports):  The Gilbert family has been making wine since 1840, and in 2004 Gilbert father-and-son Simon and Will teamed up and started Gilbert Family Wines.  The country’s 2020 bush fires forced the duo to range further afield from their usual Mudgee and Orange appellations, with the excellence of this delicious Rosé the result of grapes sourced from South Australia’s Langhorne Creek area south of Adelaide city.  The graceful pale pink wine melds sleek acidity together with hints of dry raspberry and cherry flavors.    
92 Marguerite Thomas Feb 22, 2022

Philip Shaw, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) “Pink Billy” 2006 ($20, Cumulus Wines Inc.): Billy is the whimsical name of an acquaintance in Shaw's past.  The juicy blend of Merlot became a rosé when at bottling the cellar crew noticed the wine's lovely shade of pink.  With pure fruit, no oak, and soft tannins, Pink Billy is a serious rosé, despite its name, in the best traditions of a Rhône Tavel rosé.  It is dry, with ample fruit and good length.  It's a perfect choice for a casual summer meal. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

White:

Wild Oats, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2014 ($15, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): Pear and passion fruit with pleasant oak spice, lime and mild herbs are delivered in this crisp and bright Chardonnay from Bob Oatley's high altitude estate vineyards.  It's bargain priced and easy to locate -- go get 'em!
89 Rich Cook Nov 17, 2015

Rolling Wines, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2006 ($11, Cumulus Wines Inc.): The blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon is popular in Australia--and of course traditional in white wine from Bordeaux--but inexplicably has yet to be embraced fully by American consumers.  In this attractive blend, the Semillon softens the Sauvignon Blanc just slightly without overwhelming its distinctive bite. It adds a lanolin-like texture to the vibrancy of Sauvignon Blanc, which means you can enjoy it as an aperitif type wine and then take it to the table. 88 Michael Franz Feb 26, 2008

Robert Oatley, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay “Wild Oats” 2012 ($13, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): Simply put, this is a fabulous $13 Chardonnay. Will it blow you away with depth and complexity? No, but it’s clean and fresh with a delicate hint of creaminess. Its finesse and balance makes it stand apart from most of the sweet and heavy-handed Chardonnay you find at this price.
87 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013

Wild Oats, Coastal Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2012 ($15, Pacific Highway Wines): I wish there was more Chardonnay like this one in this price range.  It's all about the fruit and acidity, with a mild oak touch.  It's great as a summer quaffer, but can accompany a range of foods, from fresh fruit to mild cheeses to grilled chicken. Pineapple and fig with lemon and a faint vanilla note come across the nose and the palate, with a crisp refreshing finish.
88 Rich Cook Jun 3, 2014

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillion Oakey Creek Vineyard 2011 ($34, Old Bridge Cellars):  This wine may look old to you in theory, but in practice, it is only starting to show how superb it will become with another 10 years of aging.  Rich and satisfying but not heavy or remotely clumsy, it offers deeply delicious aromas and flavors recalling ripe figs and white melon, with very good underlying acidity and some nascent tertiary accents from bottle aging.   I showed it (paired with crab cakes) to two wine writers and a prominent food journalist alongside a 2010 Meursault from a top producer, and the poor white Burgundy didn’t have a chance -- by unanimous agreement among the four of us.  Fantastic wine that’s still in the boost phase.  
94 Michael Franz Jul 2, 2019

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon 2022 ($20):  This low alcohol (11%) wine has a very pale, yellow color, with aromas and flavors of lemon, pear, and green apple.  It is lean, linear, and crisp in the mouth with mouthwatering acidity. The flavors linger in the mouth with a long finish.  Hunter Valley Semillon can easily age as long as twenty years, so if you have a good place to store this wine you will see that it develops richer flavors of figs and nuts and a viscous texture balanced by the crisp acidity.  The winery was established in 1970 by Tony Albert, John Beeston, and James Halliday, a trio of Sydney-based attorneys who were amateur winemakers.  You may recognize the last one from his many books about Australian wines.  Their first vintage was in 1973.         
93 Rebecca Murphy Apr 2, 2024

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon “ILR Reserve” 2004 ($48, Old Bridge Cellars): This late-released Hunter Semillon shows how good the breed can be, with complex notes that are toasty, smoky and nutty, with fruit notes recalling figs, white melon and preserved lemon, along with an undertone of wild honey.  Medium-plus in weight, the wine is still admirably fresh (thanks in part to a screw cap closure), and seems capable of at least another five years of further development. 92 Michael Franz Sep 1, 2009

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon “ILR Reserve” 2005 ($48, Old Bridge Cellars):  This reserve wine differs from the basic Brokenwood Semillon in its vineyard sourcing, and of course in its age.  Although it has fruity notes of lemon, lime and apple, it is distinctly less fruity than the 2010 Semillon.  The aroma has petrol notes intermingled with sleek lime, and the flavors suggest earthiness, honey and petrol, with some fresh citrus.  The wine’s texture is richly silky, with vibrant acidity as a counterpoint.  You might be inclined to think that this wine has been oak-fermented because it is so rich, and yet it was made only in steel.  As developed as it is, it can age even longer. 92 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Apr 19, 2011

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon Brycefield, Belford Vineyards 2005 ($32, Old Bridge Cellars): Both vineyards, at the north end of the valley, have sandy soils, producing complementary Semillon grapes.  Only stainless steel and no malolactic give the wine a crisp acidity with ample fruit.  A light gold color and lifted grassy-melon-fig aroma gives way to medium-bodied flavors showing loads of grass and citrus.  Brokenwood has kicked the interest and quality of their Semillon up a notch with this excellent wine. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 11, 2009

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon "ILR Reserve" 2003 ($48, Old Bridge Cellars): Brokenwood has been making Semillon for 21 years and the ILR Reserve is considered by winemaker Iain L. Riggs (ILR) as the top of the line.  Nothing different about the vinification of this Semillon, but with the additional bottle age, it does show some of that characteristic Hunter “toast and honey.”  The color is a light gold and the nose features grassy/herbal notes, like basil, coupled with roasted nuts.  This is a structured with great fruit, crisp acidity, good length and a refreshing finish.  Drink it now or age further for more of the Hunter Semillon character. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 11, 2009

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon 2010 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  This is a terrific dry white wine that along with mouthwatering pleasure gives you something to think about.  It’s fairly full-bodied and yet it is only 12 percent alcohol.  It is silky, rich and viscous in texture and yet it is very high in acidity.  It is very flavorful, but has been produced without oak.  Aromas and flavors include fresh lemon, tart lime, a slightly waxy note typical of Semillon, and a delicate perfumey floral note.  Although almost irresistible now, it will age well, because Hunter Valley Semillons do age nicely.  For now, drink this with dishes that have fresh flavors, such as salads with raw vegetables or fruit, or raw seafood. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Apr 19, 2011

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon 2020 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  Crisp, tasty, satisfying and refreshing — what more could you ask for in an a modestly priced white wine?  With delicate floral notes and distinct suggestions of citrus (lime, lemon, tangerine), this dry Semillon makes a tasty partner for oysters and other raw or al dente seafood.  Pasta with clam sauce or a veggie-based quiche would also shine when paired with this very pleasing white wine.        
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 12, 2022

Margan, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon "Masterpiece" 2006 ($15, Southern Starz): Given its name, this wine can't quite serve as an exemplar of modesty, but it comes pretty close to living up to its moniker with very expressive aromatics and flavors, which suggest figs, lime, dried herbs and freshly-mown hay.  Although these nuances are pretty impressive, its structural properties are at least as strong, with medium body and a fairly broad, weighty midpalate but very energetic acidity that lifts and defines the finish.  Fine Semillon is often wonderful with moderately robust foods, and indeed this wine was the runaway winner out of half a dozen wines tried with mussels in a green curry and coconut milk sauce. 90 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Rosemount, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay “Show Reserve” 2006 ($18, FWE Imports): Arguably one of Australia's preeminent Chardonnays, this Hunter Valley quaff has much more than just ripe fruit going for it (though it has plenty of that as well): a suggestion of smokiness, a touch of wet-pebble minerality, and a mid-palate creaminess are among the attractions here. 90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 30, 2007

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon 2008 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars): No oak, only stainless steel allows this aromatic Semillon to show its true character.  It’s nearly colorless and the aromatics are a mixture of floral and low intensity grassy notes, with an orange zest accent.  Crisp, full, with ripe melon notes, this wine shows the pure nature of un-oaked Hunter Semillon.  Try it with fresh oysters or mildly seasoned Asian foods. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 11, 2009

Margan, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon Estate Grown 2006 ($16, Southern Starz): Semillon has a good reputation from the Hunter Valley, but the truth is that the wines can be blockish and heavy.  That is certainly not the case in this instance, as this wine is balanced and fresh, with crisp acidity that is well integrated and very effective in lifting the medium-bodied melon fruit. 88 Michael Franz Mar 11, 2008

Tyrrell’s Wines, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon "Vat 1" 2002 ($50, Indigo Wine Group): Tyrrell’s sourced the grapes for this mature Semillon from Short Flat Vineyard and Jonno’s Vineyard, two of their oldest blocks.  Stainless steel fermented, the wine was left for a short time on the gross lees for complexity and then aged for five months in steel tanks.  The color is a lively light gold, while the nose shows herbal, melon and light grassy notes.  Brisk acidity helps lift the honeyed fruit that is coupled with subtle roasted nut accents.  Although I appreciate aged Hunter Semillon, I found this wine lacking vibrant fruit, while beginning to show the characteristic toasted bottle aged notes.  It could be in a dumb stage. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 11, 2009

Hope Estate, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Verdelho 2005 ($11, Winesellers): Fairly rich but cracking with freshness, this is an Australian curiosity but also very interesting wine when viewed from almost any angle. Straddling the line between medium and full body, it shows lots of nice fruit recalling white peaches and baked apples. The acidity shows up early in the flow of sensations and rides alongside the fruit all the way through the impressively long finish, making for a satisfying but very refreshing drink. 87 Michael Franz Jan 31, 2006

Brokenwood, Hunter Valley (New South Wales, Australia) Semillon 2008 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars): An unusually lean rendition of a famous wine (within Australia, at least), this vintage of Brokenwood Semillon is light- to medium-bodied, with lemon/ lime fruit notes and very energetic acidity.  Aromas of cut grass and dried herbs also contribute to making this seem more akin to a Sauvignon Blanc than a standard-issue Hunter Semillon, but this wine has a history of taking on weight and gaining in complexity over time, so it will be interesting to track its development into the future. 86 Michael Franz Jul 21, 2009

James Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay “Tic Tok” 2008 ($14, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  I confess that I opened this bottle without giving it much of a chance, as the price indicated that it would be made in style targeting freshness and fruit, whereas the vintage date suggested that my sample had reached me a year too late--maybe two years.  However, the fact is that the wine is still just as fresh as anyone could reasonably wish it to be, showing vivid tropical fruit notes recalling pineapple and mango with a nice lemony edge brightening the finish.  Since my expectations were low, this was only one among four Chardonnays that I opened when preparing to taste it.  But it turned out that this was the only one that I ended up wishing to drink. 89 Michael Franz Apr 12, 2011

James Oatley Tic Tok, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2008 ($14, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  There’s just a hint of oak in the flavors of this crisp Chardonnay.  Tank and barrel fermented and then treated to a brief stay in French oak, the winemaking process resulted in a very pale straw color, lemony aromas and faint tropical fruit that lead to bright fruit flavors with subtle oak, crisp acidity, mineral notes, 12.8% alcohol and a long fruity finish.  A very nice aperitif wine, it would also be good with shellfish. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 14, 2011

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2007 ($18, Oatley Wines): There is very little oak, if any, on this crisp and refreshing Chardonnay from the little-known Mudgee region north of Sydney. With a touch of the fresh lemon creme aroma that is associated with top-notch Chardonnay the world over, and hints of pear and stone fruits, Oatley's Chardonnay is a crisp and refreshing reminder of the potential for Chardonnay made with the minimal influence of oak. 89 Robert Whitley Oct 14, 2008

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2010 ($18): From the Robert Oatley “Signature” Series, this Chardonnay is bright and lively. With a gentle (but not intrusive) oak presence, medium weight, and fresh (but not overly flashy) fruit this appealing wine is notable for its elegant structure and quiet charm.
89 Marguerite Thomas Jan 15, 2013

Rosemount, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay “Show Reserve” 2006 ($15, FWE Imports): Cool nighttime temperatures in the Great Dividing Range where Mudgee is located account, at least in part, for this Chard's refreshing vibrancy.  It's loaded with grapefruit and other zesty citrus elements that give it great appeal. 89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 30, 2007

Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2007 ($18):  The winemaking for this low intensity Chardonnay involved lots that were tank fermented, barrel fermented, and a small lot that was cold fermented then aged in French oak for eight months.  The results reveal a low intensity nose with butterscotch and tropical fruit accents.  The medium flavors show moderate fruit and texture and the wine finishes at 13% alcohol. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 3, 2009

Ram’s Leap, New South Wales (Australia) Semillon – Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($12, Meadowbank/Empson): Waxy and fairly rich, this blend is utterly different from the leaner, racier versions from Western Australia that have taken the Aussie wine world by storm.  Medium-bodied and quite useful for pairing with fish or chicken dishes or even white meats, this is quite attractively priced. 84 Michael Franz Oct 9, 2007

Philip Shaw, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc “No. 19” 2006 ($20, Cumulus Wines Inc.): This Aussie rendition of the popular Sauvignon Blanc variety was made in memory of Shaw's friend and fellow winemaker Albert Chan of New Zealand, but it doesn't have the overt herbaceous notes of some Kiwi Sauvignon Blancs.  Cold fermented with no oak, the wine has the lively tropical fruit and green quince flavors that mark this style of New World Sauvignon.  Shaw was looking for a softer structure than the Sauvignon norm, with more fruit, and he found it in this wine. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Climbing, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2006 ($14, Cumulus Wines Inc.): The emphasis here is on cool temperature fruit retention: night harvesting, cold settling, cold fermentation, and cold stabilizing--all techniques used by Shaw to maximize the vibrant fruit characters of Orange grapes.  The aroma is overflowing with ripe nectarine and peach scents, while the nicely structured flavors are creamy, fruity, and supported by brisk, citrusy acidity.  The wines finishes fresh and lively. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Philip Shaw, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay “No. 11” 2005 ($30, Cumulus Wines Inc.): No. 11 is Shaw's 'dream' Chardonnay plot in the Koomooloo Vineyard, a site he considers ideal for Chardonnay.  Barrel fermented, using native yeasts, in new and used French oak, the wine was aged for 11 months in French oak barrels.  There is a light, toasty French oak scent on the nose, mingled with citrus and floral notes.  The creamy flavors are crisp and vibrant, with clearly defined fruit and toasted notes.  It finishes long, layered and creamy. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Climbing, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) Pinot Grigio 2006 ($14, Cumulus Wines Inc.): All of Shaw's white wines are a brilliant light gold color, except for this Pinot Grigo, with its inviting pale coppertone.  The aroma is tropical with hints of ginger that carry through to the flavors, which are more clearly defined as passion fruit.  The wine has good length and structure; a bit fuller than your typical Italian Pinot Grigio. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 24, 2007

Climbing, Orange (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2007 ($14, Cumulus Wines Inc.): If you're a fan of buttery, oaky Chards, you might want to pop a different cork (or in this case, screwcap). This one is crisp and clean, with bright citrus fruit character. It's medium-bodied, with good fruit intensity and a subtle creamy finish from six months in new French oak barrels. This wine was a great match for the spicy paella I made for dinner. 86 Tina Caputo Apr 8, 2008

Nugan Estate, Riverina (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2007 ($10, Southern Starz): A delicious (and very cleverly made) Chardonnay, this provides a lot of substance but also a lot of refreshment value, and it provides both at an admirably reasonable price.  Tropical fruit notes and hints of ripe peaches are the predominant aromas and flavors, with very little oak influence but a lot of fresh acidity in the finish.  I suspect that the wine was acidified, which can either make the finished product seem awkward and contrived or--when very deftly done--just leave it tasting naturally zesty. 89 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Nine Stones, Sydney (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2006 ($15, Vineyard Brands): Although Hunter Valley is considered the closest wine region to Sydney, wine is produced closer to the capital in the Sydney Wine Region, where the industry got its start in 1788.  This stylish Chardonnay dispels the prejudice that Australian Chardonnays are heavy and oak-laden with its minerality, lemony acidity and creaminess. It's a stand-out for balance and finesse.  A great bargain! 90 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

South Australia:

Red:

Penfolds, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Thomas Hyland” 2008 ($15, FWE Imports):  Offering excellent value, this is a substantial red wine, full of juicy fruit but balanced and focused, with layered secondary flavors that hit at wood and spice, especially in the finish.  Though priced more for quick, weeknight drinking, it has the stuffing that suggests it will reward cellaring, and may well merit a 90+ score with a couple of years of bottle age.  Impressive. 89 Paul Lukacs Oct 12, 2010

Mr. Riggs Wine Company, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz-Viognier 2004 ($26, Epicurean Wines): If it is intensity that you are seeking, you'll love this and regard it more highly than I did--and I regard 88 as a very, very good score.  Massive fruit notes of dark berries with a little floral topnote are what you'll get, with a lot of heady alcohol that you can almost smell.  Some notable wood is present, but it gets kicked down like a cheap door once you taste the wine, so strong is the fruit. 88 Michael Franz Jan 2, 2007

The Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Reunion” 2003 ($50, Tom Eddy/ Vintage New World): I have been very impressed by all the wines I've tasted from The Lane, an Adelaide Hills winery whose owners aim to produce wines that marry 'the structure and finesse of Europe's best [with] intense fruit flavors and spice, a product of Australian sunlight and terroir.'  That might sound like marketing publicity (and surely there's some hype there), but the wines do manage to toe the fine line between exuberance and refinement.  Of the ones I've tried, none does that better than this 'Reunion' Shiraz.  The wine offers plenty of rich, ripe fruit, but enhances that primary set of flavors with intriguing notes of pepper and spice--much like a fine Côte-Rotie, except being from Down Under the spices smell and taste sweeter and livelier (think cinnamon and star anise), and there is nary a hint of barnyard in the bouquet.  In sum, this is delicious stuff!  93 Paul Lukacs Dec 23, 2008

The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Reunion” 2003 ($45, Vintage New World): The Adelaide Hills region of South Australia is cooler than most winegrowing areas of Australia and has the potential to produce grapes whose flavors and tannins develop nicely at lower sugar levels.   Hence, the wines, such as this Shiraz, can be concentrated but retain elegance because they are not alcoholic or over the top.  The Lane's Reunion Shiraz has a gorgeous combination of plumy--almost dried fruit--character and meaty undertones balanced beautifully by freshness and supple tannins.  It has length and finesse rarely seen in Australian Shiraz. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008

Henschke, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Pinot Noir Lenswood Giles 2004 ($45, Negociants USA): Although the 2004 growing season in South Australia saw some record-breaking hot weather, there is nothing overly sweet or concentrated in this elegant wine. It's a waltz, not a rumba, smooth and intricate, with none of the unnecessary sweetness that plagues so much Pinot these days.  Burgundian earthiness is not much in evidence either, but that's okay; this wine has its own distinctive character.  The 2005 vintage is hitting the market, but the 04 is drinking absolutely beautifully now, and is especially good with food -- try it with a winter squash risotto, or at the other extreme, a strong, stinky cheese. 92 Marguerite Thomas Nov 20, 2007

Shaw + Smith, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Pinot Noir 2017 ($36, Winebow):  The Shaw + Smith winery is owned and managed by cousins Michael Hill Smith, MW and Martin Shaw who founded the winery in 1989.  It is in the Adelaide Hills wine region in the Mount Lofty Ranges near the city of Adelaide in South Australia.  It is a registered, defined area called a Geographic Indication, similar to an appellation d'origine contrôlée of France or American Viticultural Area of the US. Adelaide Hills is a beautiful, lush green area with elevations from 1150 to 2329 feet.  It is one of the coolest and wettest wine regions of Australia, and a suitable location for Pinot Noir.  Smith and Shaw have two vineyards totaling 55 hectares (135.9 acres) planted with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz.  They are in the process of organic certification for the vineyards.  This 2017 is an ethereal and elegant rendering of Pinot Noir with light ruby red color and delicate red cherry, raspberry, vanilla aromas with a light herbal note.  It is quite sleek in the mouth with cherry, raspberry, pomegranate fruit laced with fresh herbs animated with zesty acidity, gliding over polished tannins.  It will be an excellent table companion for a pan-seared halibut or an herb-crusted pork tenderloin.   
92 Rebecca Murphy Apr 14, 2020

The Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Shiraz Viognier "Off the Leash, Max" 2006 ($25, Tom Eddy Wines): Australia is well-known for its off-the-wall naming of wines, but this one wins the prize.  It's hard to know the name of the wine from reading the label.  Is it Max, or Off the Leash?  Thankfully, the quality and refinement of this Shiraz Viognier blend is clear.  Despite the confusion about the name it is worth pursuing for its ripe plummy fruit and complexity that emerges from the glass with time. The 13.5% alcohol is a powerful argument that you don't need overripe grapes to make fine flavor filled wines. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008

d’Arenberg, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Pinot Noir “The Feral Fox” 2011 ($32, Old Bridge Cellars): Thankfully, this wine doesn’t smell like a feral fox, which was named after as an homage to the local creatures who once managed the local rabbit population but now act as crop thinners, having developed a taste for Pinot Noir clusters.  The wine’s style is as surprising as its name, showing a very delicate profile marked by red fruit notes, very fine-grained tannins, and quite restrained oak.  It proves much more expressive after aeration, so be sure to decant this vigorously before serving.
90 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2013

Starved Dog Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Viognier 2003 ($15, Pacific Wine Partners): The Aussies, following what the French often do in Côte Rôtie, have blended a little white wine, Viognier, with Shiraz. The delicate floral elements, undoubtedly from the Viognier, tame the Shiraz without stripping it of spice. The cooler Adelaide Hills climate imparts a refreshing lift. Its a hard combo to beat, especially at the price. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006

Wakefield, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Pinot Noir Estate 2010 ($17, American Wine Distributors):  Cool climate growing conditions allow Pinot Noir to shine in the Adelaide Hills.  The grapes for this 2010 were gathered from five Adelaide Hills districts, then partially cold-soaked to maximize color and flavor, fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged for up to two years in French oak hogsheads (approx. 63 gallons). The result is a medium pinot-ruby color, forward plum and black cherry aromatics, dry medium fruit flavors with hints of spice and ripe cherry-berry.  The finish is dry, 13.6% alcohol and a lingering trace of mineral. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 10, 2012

d’Arenberg, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Pinot Noir “The Feral Fox” 2011 ($32, Old Bridge Cellars): d’Arenberg is known for their muscular and intensely flavored wines.  This Pinot Noir -- aptly dubbed The Feral Fox because of its gamey element -- fits that profile.  Thicker and more ponderous than a red Burgundy or Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, it is refreshingly distinctive and reflects its origins.   Savory notes mix with deep dark black cherry notes and prevent it from coming across as jammy or overdone.  Try it with charcoal grilled flank steak.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2013

Yalumba, Barossa (South Australia) Shiraz “Samuel’s Collection” 2019 ($20, Winebow):  Yalumba’s incredibly fresh and aromatic, vegan Shiraz boasts floral blackberry fruit, a light scent of toffee, and dark chocolate, yet the intense flavors are fresh and lively.  The tannins play their role of structure while conspiring with acidity for a bright, long, long finish.  Samuel’s Collection honors Samuel Smith who founded the winery in 1849.        
95 Rebecca Murphy Feb 28, 2023

Yalumba, Barossa (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon - Shiraz 2018 ($64, Winebow):  The Signature wine “is named in honor of an individual who has made significant contribution to the culture and traditions of Yalumba.”  For 2018, that person was Nick Waterman, the winery’s Managing Director.  Yalumba’s wines are uniformly fresh and aromatic like this Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz blend with a deep black ruby color, and forward, spicy, black cherry, blackberry, aromas.  The black fruit in the mouth is concentrated yet lifted by crisp acidity and smooth tannins.  Chief Winemaker Louisa Rose explains that she thinks of Cabernet Sauvignon as “linear with a beautiful tannin structure and the Shiraz, which is s a bit richer and riper, and it sort of wraps around the Cabernet.  Once you blend them they are very harmonious.”        
95 Rebecca Murphy Feb 28, 2023

John Duval Wines, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Eligo” 2005 ($100, Old Bridge Cellars): John Duval needs no introduction to those who know Australian wine, and if you don't know his name or background, I'd prefer to have you taste this wine first and then seek the lowdown on him by way of a keyword search.  The wine is quite clearly the result of superb material and great skill, as the wine is absolutely packed with flavor but still manages to seem balanced and stylish and almost (but not quite) restrained.  Fruit notes of blackberries and red and black raspberries come quite close to deserving the over-used descriptor of 'explosive,' and yet there's a sweet, soft gentility to the wine that makes it seem 'generous' rather than 'intense.'  The wine's concentrated fruit has already soaked up enough of the oak that there's a lovely balance between the two, and the tannins are notable but very soft and ripe, lending definition to the fruit without any harshness or astringency.  Bloody good stuff. 94 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Wolf Blass, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) “Platinum Label” 2005 ($90, FWE Imports): This is simply a stunning wine!  It's deeply-colored, offers an enticing bouquet, and delivers layered yet seamlessly connected flavors that linger literally for minutes.  Made from low yielding, very mature Barossa vines, it exhibits muscle and manner all at once, being plenty powerful but at the same time extremely graceful.  Only 200 cases were imported into the US.  If you are lucky enough to find a bottle, grab it! 94 Paul Lukacs Jun 24, 2008

Peter Lehmann, Barossa (South Australia) Portrait Shiraz 2011 ($16): This spicy Shiraz from the Australian heartland is a huge mouthful of wine for the price. It shows layered aromas of black fruits, supple tannins and outstanding persistence of flavor through a long, inviting finish. Well balanced, delicious and great value.  Platinum award winner at the 2014 San Diego International Wine Competition.
93 Robert Whitley Apr 22, 2014

Grant Burge, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Miamba” 2008 ($27, Wilson Daniels):  Grant Burge’s Shiraz wines beautifully reflect their origins.  Their power and intensity will not be to everyone’s tastes, but they are distinctive and a classic example of what the Barossa has to offer.  He purchased the Miamba vineyard in 1983 when it was bare land and planted it so the vines are in their mature stage and offer up everything the site has to offer.  It’s Barossa Shiraz in spades--just what it is supposed to be--a ripe powerhouse but because of Burge’s talent, not over the top.  Filled with succulent black fruit-like flavors, its polished tannins make it appealing for current consumption.  Plan to drink it when the outside temperature is below freezing and there’s a bubbling cauldron of cassoulet on the stove. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2010

Wolf Blass, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Platinum Label” 2003 ($83, FWE Imports): When you buy an $85 bottle of Shiraz from Barossa, there's not much doubt that you are going to get a big, rich, flavorful wine.  The only question is whether it is going to be too massive and overbearing to actually drink with any pleasure.  I found this to be completely delicious, though I was glad that I could pair it with a grilled steak after tasting it along with several comparable wines.  Very dark and dense, with gorgeous fruit recalling blackberries and black raspberries, it also shows notes of cocoa and coffee beans as well as light smoke and pepper.  The texture is exceedingly soft and rounded, but there's enough tannin to give it some spine. 91 Michael Franz Nov 27, 2007

St. Hallett, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Blackwell” 2005 ($35, Beam Wine Estates): A classy, muscular-but-not-boorish Shiraz, displaying typical Barossa concentration, this wine tastes rich and ripe.  The dill-like character of American oak can be sensed both in the bouquet and on the palate, but the wine offers so much inky depth and dark fruit flavor that the wood ends up enhancing the whole rather than distracting from it.
90 Paul Lukacs Dec 16, 2008

Wolf Blass, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Gold Label” 2006 ($25, FWE Imports): Full, round, and soft, with bright plum and blueberry fruit flavors and a hearty (but not sloppy) kiss of oak, this is a delicious Down Under Shiraz that impresses most because of its sheer drinkability.  Well-structured, it nonetheless shows no rough edges; and while exhibiting the stuffing to cellar successfully for five years or so, tastes so succulent now that waiting to enjoy it makes little sense. 90 Paul Lukacs Jun 24, 2008

Yalumba, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Grenache "Bush Vine" 2008 ($17, Negociants, USA):  I confess that I tend to find more bottles of Grenache leaving me indifferent than enthusiastic, but the really good ones are damned appealing, and this one is very good.  Attractively priced too, and you’d have a hard time finding more sweet, soft, vivid fruit at this price point.  The fruit notes recall juicy red cherries with a dark berry backnote, and there’s a nice spiciness around the edges that lends a very nice accent.  Although the bottle indicates an alcohol level of 14.5%, there’s nothing hot or overblown in the wine’s actual performance.  The bottle that I tasted showed no discernable designation when re-tasted after being left open for two days--which is bloody impressive for a wine priced in the teens. 90 Michael Franz Jun 15, 2010

Peter Lehmann, Barossa (Southeastern Australia) Shiraz "Stonewell" 1999 ($75, The Hess Collection New World Wines): The hint of eucalyptus is unusual for Barossa Shiraz, but so is the weight and overall impression left by this usually superb bottling from Peter Lehmann. The spice and black fruit aromas are quite attractive, but this vintages falls short of greatness due to the absence of depth and a rather short, disappointing finish. While it's a very good wine, the price tag seems a bit hefty for what's in the bottle. 89 Robert Whitley Mar 28, 2006

Ross Estate, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Lights Out” 2006 ($16, Southern Starz): This very tasty wine offers fresh, vivid fruit notes recalling dark cherries and red berries.  The proportions of structural components to the core of fruit are admirably symmetrical, as there's just enough acidity to provide lift (but no tart edge) and fine-grained tannins that provide backbone but no bitterness.  Reasonable alcohol of 14.5% really isn't an issue in sensory terms, as the wine's fruit and extract keep it effectively hidden. 89 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

St. Hallet, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz-Grenache “Gamekeeper’s Reserve” 2005 ($12, Beam Wine Estates): If you think of Aussie wine as being typically big and obvious, you're in for a surprise with this nicely priced Shiraz/Grenache blend, which has medium intensity and a framework of flavors full of appealing subtleties.  Shiraz dominates, with its recognizable black pepper spiciness, but while Grenache accounts for only 6% of the blend, it contributes a distinctive element of red berries, notably raspberry and cassis. 89 Marguerite Thomas Mar 18, 2008

Grant Burge, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz "Barossa Vines" 2004 ($12, Wilson Daniels): Despite all its ripeness and intensity, this big Barossa Shiraz is not 'over the top.'  The supple combination of spice and black cherry flavors would make a nice match with short ribs now that winter is here. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006

Peter Lehmann, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “8 Songs” 2004 ($38, The Hess Group): Although this very ripe Shiraz highlights the plummy aspect of the varietal, it conveys a subtle pepperiness in the finish.  Despite the 14.5% alcohol, it is balanced, not 'over the top.'  This big, bold, juicy Shiraz should have widespread appeal. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008

St. Hallett, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Faith” 2005 ($16, Beam Wine Estates): Delicious and a deal to boot, this wine delivers lots of rich, flavorful fruit without seeming chunky or obvious.  Notes of dark berries are appealingly accented with subtle wood notes and nice spicy, herbal undertones. 87 Michael Franz Sep 25, 2007

Nine Stones, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2007 ($13, Vineyard Brands): The rich, almost chewy, full bodied wine has a softness with supple tannins which makes it easy to drink now.  Bold, but not particularly brawny, this Shiraz emphasizes straightforward plummy black fruit flavors rather than the peppery side often characteristic of that varietal.  It delivers a lot of bang for the buck for those who like the big, ripe style of Aussie Shiraz. 86 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2009

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Stonewell” 2004 ($80, Hess Imports):  When I first tasted this wine--their current release--I immediately was reminded of what Louis Latour (the father of the current head of that renowned Burgundy firm) once told me, “Great wines always taste good.”  Those who love young vigorous Shiraz are in for a treat because this one has all you’d expect, plus elegance and refinement--two words not usually used to describe Barossa Shiraz.  But its layered complexity, savory notes, refined tannins and beautiful balance means it will develop and evolve over the next two decades like the best of Lehmann’s Stonewell Shiraz, his flagship wine.  So for those who want wine for the cellar, pick up this one.  But you better get plenty because you’ll probably want to taste it now.  After you do, it will be hard to keep it all in the cellar--because great wine always tastes good. 96 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2010

Stone House Vineyard, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz Old Vine Reserve 2009 ($45): Among this wine’s many virtues, soaring aromatics figure very prominently, as scents of ripe red and black berries are remarkably expressive, with lovely accents of saddle leather and wild mushrooms following hard on the heels of the fruit notes.  Full-bodied but really not heavy or syrupy, this is a wonderfully drinkable wine rather than a powerhouse that can be admired but not really enjoyed in a sustained way.  Although this has had enough time in bottle to develop tertiary characters that show atop the primary fruit and secondary oak, but all three layers are really in evidence simultaneously, making this one of the most complex of all the top wines shown at the 2014 San Diego International Wine Competition.  Bloody impressive juice.
96 Michael Franz Apr 22, 2014

John Duval Wines, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz "Entity" 2012 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars): Yes! I love this wine. It's true to its Aussie roots, but shows beautiful Rhône style, with blackberry, blueberry, citrus zest, mild pepper, light herb notes and deep, rich oak spice in both aroma and flavor profiles, with an incredibly long mouth watering finish. This could pair with just about any meat -- red or white. Delicious! A platinum award winner at the 2014 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. 95 Rich Cook Jun 24, 2014

John Duval Wines, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Eligo” 2005 ($100, Old Bridge Cellars): Duval crafted Eligo from carefully selected blocks of the Barossa's best grapes then fermented the juice using traditional red-wine techniques including partial maceration and ageing for 20 months in mostly new French oak hogsheads. Deeply colored with faint purple edges the aromatics are layered with dense toasted oak, slightly jammy blackberry and hints of spice.  The textured concentrated flavors are rich and supple, supported by firm fine tannins and great acidity.  This is a beautiful example of the new 'classic' Barossa Shiraz, delicious now but will cellar nicely and continue to reward the patient for 10-15 years. 95 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 4, 2008

Barossa Valley Estate, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz "Black Pepper" 2002 ($85, International Cellars): Not for the faint of heart, this bottling is always one of the most intense and wild rides in the entire world of wine, and 2002 proves no exception. I tend to prefer soft-spoken wines in general, as I like to hear what my food has to say, but every now and then I get a hankering for a screamer. This baby fits the bill--in spades. Marvelously concentrated, it shows stunning flavor impact with fruit notes of bing cherries and blackberries, along with undertones of cocoa and woodsmoke. My bottle took on a very thick porterhouse steak and ate it for lunch. Were I to try the wine again, I'd go for thick lamb chops, and even then, I'd give those chops a serious pep talk and a sprinkling of Wheaties before sending them into the fray. 94 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Elderton, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "Command" 2002 ($77, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Elderton has certainly made bolder, riper "Command" Shriaz, but this is no less of a wine than some of the higher octane vintages. It has plenty of power, not to mention plenty of sweet red and black fruits, hints of licorice and spice and a long, persistent finish. In an effort to make a "more refined" Command Shiraz, Elderton has changed the barrel regimen slightly to utilize more spicy French oak barrels rather than the sweeter (think vanilla) American barrels. This vintage also has a minty/herbal/eucalyptus note that is typical and complements the rich, ripe, sweet fruit house style of Command Shriaz. 94 Robert Whitley Nov 21, 2006

John Duval, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "Entity" 2012 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars): “Entity” scooped up a Platinum medal at this year’s Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.  An elegant and stylish Shiraz it has extraordinarily deep and complex fruit flavors -- all the more remarkable given how young this wine still is.  If you have the willpower, hang on to a bottle or two and taste it again in a couple of years.
94 Marguerite Thomas Jul 8, 2014

Penfolds, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “RWT” 2004 ($80, FWE Imports):  In contrast to Penfolds’ flagship wine, Grange, which is a multi-regional blend aged in American oak barrels, this stunning Shiraz comes exclusively from the Barossa Valley and is aged in large and small French oak barrels.  Not even a decade old--the RWT (Red Winemaking Trial) Shiraz debuted in 2000 with the 1997 vintage--it has already become one of Penfolds’ most sought-after wines.  And for good reason.  Reflecting its origins, the 2004 is opulent and succulent, but with balancing savory and earthy elements.  Despite its stated 14.5 percent alcohol, it’s bright and vigorous without a trace of heaviness or over ripe flavors.  Polished fine tannins allow enjoyment now with robust fare, such as grilled leg of lamb. 94 Michael Apstein May 31, 2011

Torbeck, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “The Factor” 2004 ($115, Australian Wine Connection): Rambunctious, even riotous, this wine merits a high score for the way its opulent fruit flavors are buttressed and enhanced by more earthy ones (leather, smoked meat, tar, and more).  Few Aussie Shirazes, even other costly ones, display this sort of complexity.  With its multi-layered personality, it resembles a Cote-Rotie or Hermitage, but its vivacious enthusiasm keeps it very much at home Down Under. 93 Paul Lukacs Mar 27, 2007

Wolf Blass, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Platinum Label" 2007 ($95, FWE Imports):  At this price it’s a special occasion wine, but it is going to live up to any grand event.  This Platinum Label Shiraz is never disappointing, but as 2007 was an exceptional vintage the wine is even more rewarding than fine past vintages.  The fruit flavors are dense and fully extracted, yet the wine’s overall grace and elegance keeps it from being heavy.  The aromas alone are utterly beguiling, with cloves, star anise and other spices, chocolate and mint, licorice and wild blackberries, and something that evokes the fragrance of a Christmas tree.  It’s a remarkably food friendly wine.  I’ve even had it with fried green tomatoes (an odd but delicious pairing).  More predictably, it was a superb match with duck breast, and also bison filet. 93 Marguerite Thomas Aug 3, 2010

Heirloom Vineyards, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz 2015 ($35): This is the sort of wine that Australian vintners can rely upon to win new friends and retrieve ones lost in recent years.  Dark, dense and deep in flavors, but neither grapey nor obvious, this packs a lot of punch based on fruit intensity, without any excessive oak getting in the way.  Very well done.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
92 Michael Franz Apr 4, 2017

John Duval Wines, Barossa Valley (South Australia) “Plexus” 2008 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars):  A winning blend of 52% Shiraz, 26% Grenache and 22% Mourvedre, this features ripe but nevertheless fresh fruit recalling both red and black berries.  Backed by notable but ripe tannins and fairly restrained oak, this is juicy and flavorful but classy and interesting at the same time.  Very well balanced, it is ready to enjoy now but will become even more complex for another five years. Platinum award winner at the San Diego International Wine Competition. 92 Michael Franz Mar 20, 2012

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Stonewell” 2004 ($75, Hess Imports): This, Peter Lehmann's top end Shiraz, is a remarkable example of Barossa Shiraz at its best.  Concentrated and intense as expected given the origin, it's the vibrancy and layers of flavors--black cherry, mint and other herbs--that make it notable.  Hints of smoke and gamey nuances add to its allure.  The panoply of flavors carries the 14.5 % alcohol beautifully, so it comes across as a big, but balanced, wine. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008

Two Hands, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz Gnarly Dudes 2005 ($34, Paterno Imports): This rich old-vine Shiraz from Australia's Barossa Valley is a beautiful expression of the Barossa. The mouthfeel is plump and fleshy, layered with a range of aromas and flavors from ripe blueberry and cassis to dark chocolate and spice. A real crowd-pleaser with a long, lingering finish. 92 Robert Whitley May 15, 2007

Two Hands, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "Gnarly Dudes" 2005 ($34, Paterno Imports):

This rich old-vine Shiraz from Australia's Barossa Valley is a beautiful expression of the Barossa. The mouthfeel is plump and fleshy, layered with a range of aromas and flavors from ripe blueberry and cassis to dark chocolate and spice. A real crowd-pleaser with a long, lingering finish.

Yalumba, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "Patchwork" 2012 ($19, Negociants USA): Yalumba has never quite attained the renown in the USA for its venerable history and broad range of outstanding wines as a company like Penfolds, but the fact is that it really plays in that league.  At lower price levels, the “Y Series” Viognier is almost certainly the best varietal wine of its type anywhere near its price of $12.  Moving up to this wine, one enjoyed a commensurate boost in density and complexity.  This is packed with ripe berry fruit interlaced with earthy nuances and braced by spicy oak.  Already complete and convincing, this will get better still during the next few years.
92 Michael Franz Feb 24, 2015

Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Noble Barren” 2008 ($50, Banfi Vintners):  This is Château Tanunda’s top-of-the-line Shiraz.  Although slightly “bigger” than their regular bottling, its grandeur and appeal comes from more complexity, not more power or extract.  It’s an exciting Barossa Shiraz because along with the expected intensity comes layers of spice and even a subtle touch of chocolaty notes.  For all its size, the tannins are smooth and polished which allows for enjoyment now that the grilling season is here. 91 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011

Glaetzer, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Bishop” 2004 ($47, Epicurean Wines): Not just another Barossa Bazooka, this bottling delivers as much class and complexity as it does power and pushiness.  Dark berry fruit is predictably rich and flavorful, but the ripeness is not overt and the fruit shows some restraint, as does the oak component, with some meaty, spicy complexities showing through as a result. 91 Michael Franz May 8, 2007

John Duval Wines, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Entity” 2006 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars): In 2006 John Duval produced two Shiraz that reflect the terroir of the Barossa Valley, arguably Australia's premier red-wine region.  Entity is Duval's choice for grapes that didn't quite make the cut for Eligo, his 'best of vintage' Shiraz.  Entity was aged for 17 months in French oak and is packed with bright blackberry aromas and flavors, fine ripe tannins and great length.  Finished at 14.5% alcohol, Entity will gain complexity with additional aging up to 10 years or more. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 4, 2008

Kaesler, Barossa Valley (Australia) "Avignon" 2005 ($27, Epicurean Wines): As the proprietary name suggests, this wine emulates reds from the southern Rhône Valley in France.  A blend of Grenache (41%), Shiraz (40%), and Mourvedre (19%), it tastes ripe and opulent, with red fruit flavor and a luxurious mouthfeel.  Though it does not display the sort of earthy secondary qualities that distinguish top southern Rhônes, it more than compensates with abundant fruit and a bouquet that hints at summer herbs.  Odds are that it will get even better with a year or two more in bottle. 91 Paul Lukacs Mar 13, 2007

St. Hallett, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Old Block 2003 ($70, Beam Wine Estates): This Barossa icon is up to its reputation in 2003, with massive fruit that is concentrated and intense but not overbearing or over-ripe.  The fruit recalls blackberries and black raspberries, and it is so formidable that it has already soaked up most of the wood notes.  Emerging secondary scents of mushrooms and tobacco are faint but notable, and this wine is within a year or two of hitting a peak that it should maintain for about five years thereafter. 91 Michael Franz Sep 25, 2007

Turkey Flat, Barossa Valley (South Australia) “Butcher’s Block" 2010 ($25, American Estates Wines):  A blend of 53% Shiraz, 31% Grenache and 16% Mourvédre, this is open and generous but also built for two decades--no kidding--of potential improvement.  The initial aromas and opening flavors are all about overt cherry-berry notes with minimal wood influence, but the tannins and spice show up in the finish.  Although this smells and initially tastes like it is a ready-to-rip sipper, it really calls for robust foods for the next few years, as the serious finish will demonstrate to you. 91 Michael Franz Apr 3, 2012

Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Grand Barossa” 2008 ($18, Banfi Vintners):

This classic Barossa Shiraz shows why the region is justifiably well-known for the variety.  Big and brawny, but not overdone or flamboyant, it packs plenty of power, spice and even some chocolaty elements.  It’s refreshing to taste a Shiraz that has complexity and not just alcohol and extract.  It’s a great choice for lamb or beef on the grill.

Elderton, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($30, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): There is a tendency to forget about the basic Elderton Shiraz and focus only on the extraordinary Elderton Command Shiraz. That's a mistake of the highest order, for the primary Elderton Shiraz is an exceptional wine in its own right and less than half the price of the Command Shiraz. The '04 vintage is excellent, showing ripe blackcurrant and plum fruit, a lovely viscous texture and hints of mocha and anise. 90 Robert Whitley Nov 21, 2006

Grant Burge, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Cabernet "Nebuchadnezzar" 2003 ($34, Wilson Daniels): This blend of 5% Shiraz and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon is packed with flavor but also quite complex and admirably balanced, with deeply flavored blackberry and red raspberry fruit offset against just enough tannin and oak to frame the wine's juicy core. Fresh but not overly primary or simple, this will be a strong partner to almost any grilled meat, but will be particularly flattering for roast lamb leg or grilled lamb chops. 90 Michael Franz Apr 18, 2006

Grant Burge, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) "The Holy Trinity" 2001 ($34, Wilson Daniels): This rather irreverent-seeming bottling is comprised of 39% Grenache, 35% Shiraz and 26% Mourvedre. In a glass, it shows all three components recognizably. Grenache is the lead player here aromatically, but both the Shiraz and Mourvedre really stand out distinctly on the palate. Medium-bodied but brimming with flavor, this is a great choice for roasted leg of lamb. 90 Michael Franz Apr 18, 2006

Groom, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2008 ($27, Winebow):  As a former winemaker for Penfolds in charge of Grange, their iconic Shiraz, Daryl Groom should know something about that varietal.  And judging by this wine, he certainly does.  Ripe and powerful--it is, after all, Barossa Shiraz--it’s not over the top, carrying the stated 14.9% alcohol very well.  Its appealing glossiness complements and amplifies the spice and slight herbal quality.  Supple tannins allow current enjoyment and make it easy to recommend with a roasted leg of lamb or similar robust fare. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010

Henschke, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) “Johann’s Garden” 2004 ($38, Necogiants USA): A blend of Grenache (69%), Mourvedre (19%) and Shiraz (12%), this is a deeply satisfying, intensely-flavored wine, full of jammy Aussie fruit but enhanced by echoes of coffee, leather, and spice.  Though sporting a hefty 15.5% level of alcohol, the wine does not feel hot on the palate, instead being texturally supple.  It certainly can be enjoyed now, but promises to be even better with five years or so of cellaring, time in which its forward fruit should become a bit less rambunctious while its secondary flavors come more to the fore. 90 Paul Lukacs Jun 5, 2007

John Duval Wines, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz-Grenache-Mourvedre “Plexus” 2006 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars): John Duval is the former Chief Winemaker for Penfolds, makers of the noted iconic Grange, one of Australia's best and best-known Shiraz.  In 2002, Duval began crafting his own eponymous wines.  Plexus is Duval's take on the traditional Aussie GSM, but in the case of Plexus, an 'SGM,' with Shiraz first at 52%, followed by Grenache, 30% and a fair helping of Mourvedre, rounding out the blend at 18%.  Aged in French oak and finished at 14.5% alcohol, Plexus is deeply colored with lovely vanilla, black cherry and spicy oak flavors, backed by moderate levels of toasted oak.  It has great texture and length and a long refreshing finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 4, 2008

John Duval Wines, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) “Plexus” 2006 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars): Blended from 52% Shiraz, 30% Grenache and 18% Mourvédre, this is a 'SGM' bottling that is likely to heighten your estimation of the entire genre.  It offers a near-optimal balance between intensity and restraint, with fruit that is very ripe and flavorful, yet neither obvious nor simple.  Both red and black fruit notes show on the palate, with subtle spicy accents and deftly measured oak.  Although this is packed with flavor and fun, it is also nuanced and very interesting and very well made. 90 Michael Franz Jul 29, 2008

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Mentor” 2004 ($38): A powerful but reined-in wine, showing excellent structure and backbone but, right now, not all that much flesh and flash, this small-production (only 200 cases) Cabernet surely will benefit from extended cellaring--time in which the tannins will soften, allowing the softer elements to come to the fore.  It shows great promise, but promise requires patience. 90 Paul Lukacs Sep 16, 2008

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) "GSM" 2003 ($18, Hess Collection New World Wines): GSM is a popular red blend in Australia and Lehmann has found the right combination with about one-third of each of these Rhone varieties. Deep brilliant ruby in color, the aromatics are marked by ripe raspberry and spice. The flavors are fruit-forward with a subtle black pepper note, while the use of American oak gives support without being obtrusive. An easy drinking value wine from Down Under. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

St. Hallett, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Blackwell” 2005 ($30, Beam Wine Estates): This intense but balanced and harmonious wine is deeply delicious, and is actually a worthy contender to this producer's flagship 'Old Block' release from 2003.  It is positively packed with intensely flavored, richly textured, deeply pigmented fruit.  The oak is notable but appropriately restrained so that the impressive fruit remains in the foreground.  Pair with spicy grilled lamb chops. 90 Michael Franz Sep 25, 2007

Torbreck, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) "Cuvée Juveniles" 2004 ($21, Elite Wines): This wine is a blend of Rhone grapes (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) and is Rhone-ish in style. Smoky, meaty, earthy and intense, with suggestions of anise and other spices, it's smooth and engaging. 90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 22, 2006

Two Hands, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "Gnarly Dudes" 2010 ($48, Terlato Wines International):  If you like big-shouldered, ripe black cherry fruit, you'll like this much more than I did.  This wine achieves what it sets out to do: it's intense on the nose and provides simple pleasure on the palate.  14.8% alcohol. 90 W. Blake Gray Apr 10, 2012

Glaetzer, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Grenache "Wallace" 2004 ($22, Epicurean Wines): This wine shows lots of muscle but also seems surprisingly nimble given its size and intensity.  Deeply pigmented color will lead prudent tasters to brace themselves, and the blast of dark berry fruit and spicy oak that follows on both the nose and palate confirms the visual cues.  Interestingly, however, the wine's acidity is quite bright, counterbalancing the ripeness of the fruit, and the tannins are polished and fine in grain, working nicely with the surprisingly subtle texture of the wood make for a gently firm finish. 89 Michael Franz Jan 30, 2007

Grant Burge, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz "Barossa Vines" 2003 ($14, Wilson Daniels): This is very, very good Shiraz for the money, with lots of concentration and character and without the simple, superficial, raspberry fluff of the mass-market versions. Flavors are gutsy dark berry and the fruit is very concentrated and intense, with real depth and intensity. Tarry and massive, this calls for big food like grilled lamb chops or stew. 89 Michael Franz Dec 6, 2005

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Clancy's Red Wine 2003 ($16, Hess Collection Imports): An intriguing blend of about 40% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, Clancy's Red Wine is perfect for those who prefer strong structure in their red wines. The blend works because the firmness of Cabernet supports the ripe fruit of the Shiraz and Merlot without dominating either. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006

Yalumba, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/ Viognier “Hand Picked” 2006 ($30, Negociants, USA): A serious red from Down Under, this full-bodied Shiraz tastes rich and spicy, with a slightly sweet, floral bouquet (due, I suspect, to the 6% of Viognier in the co-fermented blend), and an excitingly long, evolved finish.  The wine surely will benefit from cellaring, as it feels almost muscle-bound at present.  If you want to drink it in the near term, be sure to decant it beforehand. 89 Paul Lukacs Dec 2, 2008

Grant Burge, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz "Barossa Vines" 2004 ($14, Wilson Daniels): This delicious wine fortifies my hunch that many of Barossa's most useful wines are entry-level offerings from producers who know what they are doing. This is to say that flagship wines from Barossa are often showy in judgings but tiring in everyday applications, whereas the more modest wines from this warm region are often more balanced and enjoyable under more circumstances and over the long haul. A case in point, this bottling offers up plenty of juicy, substantial fruit that shows notes of red raspberries and dark cherries, along with light subtleties drawn from oak. Fleshy but still fresh, it can work with foods as light as chicken or grilled fish, but can also hang in with lamb or a steak. Well done! 88 Michael Franz Apr 18, 2006

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2002 ($16, Hess Collection Imports): Peter Lehmann makes a range of excellent wines. This boisterous Barossa Valley wine delivers smoky, earthy elements in the nose that follow on the palate. Remarkable suppleness makes it easy to drink. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006

Elderton, Barossa Valley (South Australia) "Tantalus" 2004 ($13, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Elderton is certainly one of the giants of the Barossa Valley and is riding high on the reputation of its signature wine, the Command Shiraz, but it does the little things well, too. Tantalus is Elderton's everyday red, a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec that fits within even a modest budget. It's fhesh, juicy and lively, showing hints of licorice, ripe red berries and a smooth, round palate with sweet, supple tannins. 87 Robert Whitley Jan 9, 2007

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) “Eight Songs” 2004 ($55, Hess Imports): A deep, dark Shiraz with plenty of power, Lehmann's Eight Songs bottling has supple tannins.  The 14.5% alcohol is not out of place here because of the ripe, concentrated black fruit elements.  Emphasizing the juicy plummy side of Shiraz rather than the spice, this wine has remarkable smoothness and will appeal to those who value intensity over elegance. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Mentor" 2004 ($38, Hess Imports): Although best known for Shiraz, the Barossa is an excellent site for Cabernet Sauvignon as well.  The very ripe fruit notes border on pruney, but the overall flavor profile is quite broad, with hints of cedar and smoke.  The tannins are supple, which makes it easy to enjoy now.  Overall it's a heavier, thicker style of Cabernet that accurately reflects its origin. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008

Grant Burge, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Filsell” 2004 ($35, Wilson Daniels): A powerful, juicy, fruit-packed red, full of Down Under exuberance.  It's not particularly complex, but it makes up for its lack of subtlety or sophistication with full-throttled enthusiasm.   It doesn't come cheap, though. 86 Paul Lukacs Dec 18, 2007

Milton Park, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2005 ($9, Kysela): With the world seemingly awash in Shiraz that is overtly sweet but gutless at its core, this is a welcome departure.  Although it is certainly ripe and rather rounded and sweet as a result, there is also a solid foundation of dark berry fruit and grippy tannin that effectively counterbalances the fruit sweetness. 85 Michael Franz Mar 13, 2007

Mitchelton, Central Victoria (South Australia) Shiraz 'Print' 2002 ($40, Beam Wine Estates):

A powerful but harmonious Shiraz, this mature wine offers plenty of opulent pleasure -- both aromatically and on the palate.  Ripe fruit always is at the fore, but there are many subtle, underlying secondary flavors and aromas (especially earthy and spicy ones) to provide intriguing complexity.

Wakefield, Claire Valley (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2009 ($17, American Wine Distributors):  This estate Cabernet Sauvignon from the Claire Valley was fermented in a stainless steel tank known in Australia as a “Potter” fermenter, then aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, 5% new.  The color is a deep ruby, while the aromatics are earthy with herbal back notes and subtle smoky nuances.  Dark fruits dominate the dry flavors with cedar accents, 13.6% alcohol and good length and structure through the finish.  A good value! 91 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 10, 2012

Wakefield, Claire Valley (South Australia) Shiraz Estate 2009 ($17, American Wine Distributors):  One of the distinctive styles of Australian Shiraz comes from Claire Valley grapes.  This tank fermented Shiraz was aged for 10 months in American oak with an egg white fining before bottling.  The color is a bright deep ruby and the nose shows black olive, pepper and dark fruits with a light herbal back note.  It has big berry flavors, firm refined tannins, 14% alcohol and good length through the fruity finish.  This value Shiraz will benefit with more bottle age.
91 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 10, 2012

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (South Australia) Shiraz “St. Andrews” 2015 ($70):  This wine is packed with power, yet it never seems over-ripe or overwhelming, which is an impressive accomplishment in this weight class. Eucalyptus notes and woodspice lead the way, with rich, red-toned fruit slathering the palate with ripe flavors that remain almost uncanny in their freshness through the wine’s very long finish.  Acidity, wood, fruit and tannin remain perfectly proportional as the sensory impressions tail off, which is perhaps the single surest sign of a truly great wine.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
96 Michael Franz Mar 27, 2018

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Shiraz 2013 ($17): Wow.  What a wonderful mouthful of wine for $17!  Dark, dense, deeply-flavored and amazingly persistent on the palate, this wine manages to show all of those characteristics without coming off as overbearing due to fine balancing acidity and restrained oak.  Pure and fresh, it shows intense blackberry and black currant fruit notes with outstanding freshness and purity.  A striking wine, and an even more striking value.  Platinum award winner at the 2014 San Diego International Wine Competition.
95 Michael Franz Apr 29, 2014

Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) “Oracle” 2006 ($70, Old Bridge Cellars): This is an undeniably impressive wine, with terrific depth of flavor and a winning combination of intensity and textural softness.  Very big and very ripe, it nevertheless shows real freshness and purity in its fruit component.  Dark and impressively concentrated, it easily counterbalances a prominent dose of spicy, smoky oak, which lends complexity without distracting from the beautifully ripened fruit.  Certainly ready to enjoy now, this will nevertheless improve in terms of aromatic complexity for years if you can manage to keep your hands off of it. 94 Michael Franz Jun 30, 2009

Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia) Shiraz "Killerman's Run" 2018 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  Kilikanoon’s vineyards are located in Clare Valley in South Australia.  The climate features warm days and cool nights, which is why the region is famous for its dry Riesling wines.  It is also a good climate for Shiraz like this one with a dark ruby black color which introduces forward, juicy black plum, blackberry and cherry aromas with a touch of mint, caramel and a whisper of smoke.  The black fruit flavors are concentrated in the mouth and beautifully balanced with bright acidity and refined tannins.  The winery was created in 1997 by Kevin Mitchell.  His father, Mort, had planted vineyards of Shiraz, Cabernet, Grenache and Riesling in the 1960s.  They are now Kilikanoon’s estate vineyards.     
93 Rebecca Murphy Jan 17, 2023

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Shiraz “St. Andrews” 2006 ($50, American Wine Distributors):  This is the kind of wine that justifies Australia’s reputation for Shiraz.  Boisterous and plumy, yes, but that can be said of many Aussie Shiraz.  Even with its 14.6% alcohol, it delivers so much more than lapel-grabbing-in-your-face fruitiness.  It’s filled with spice and intrigue and--even elegance.  Lip-smacking acidity keeps you going back for more.  It’s powerful, of course, but not over the top and perfect for a lamb shank. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011

Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 'Blocks Road' 2006 ($30, Old Bridge Cellars):

This is a terrific Cabernet--provided that you give it a bit of time and plenty of air.  It is very intense and rather lacking in subtlety when first opened at this point, but rounds out beautifully over the course of a couple of hours to reveal layers of concentrated fruit that is balanced in tannic structure and oaking.  Accent notes of cocoa powder and espresso beans also emerge with time, ultimately making this as interesting as it is impressive.  Hold this for a few more years if you can, or decant it for current enjoyment with robust meat dishes or aged cheeses.

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($17, Brown Forman): In addition to Riesling, Clare Valley is known for producing fine, ripe, powerful Shiraz because of it's warmer location.  This one is deceptive because it has leathery and peppery flavors I usually associated with Shiraz grown in cooler climes.  The deliciously meaty profile adds to its attractiveness.  And the very reasonable price doesn't hurt either. 92 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007

Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Covenant” 2006 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars): You could fault this wine for being too gushy and overt in its soft sweet fruitiness, but odds are that you couldn’t maintain this critical posture for long, and would end up being won over by the seemingly irresistible appeal of the fruit.  There’s a little spiciness around the edges to accent the fruit, which recalls ripe raspberries above all.  Full-bodied but quite soft in texture, this can stand up to grilled steak, but the ripe, soft tannins will also let it work with grilled white meats like pork or veal. 91 Michael Franz Jun 30, 2009

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “St. Andrews” 2006 ($50, American Wine Distributors):  Wakefield is best known for their stellar Rieslings.  After tasting this Cabernet and the Wakefield Shiraz (also reviewed this week), I’m sure that these varieties will be giving Riesling a run for its money.  St. Andrews is the name Wakefield uses for their top tier of wines and this Cabernet Sauvignon certainly deserves to be included.  A big full-bodied Cabernet, it delivers alluring hints of tarry elements.  It’s packed, but bright cherry-like acidity and plush tannins keep it in balance.  Long and layered, it unfolds with time in the glass.  Try it with a hearty roast this winter. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011

Knappstein, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Enterprise Vineyard 2004 ($40, Beam Wine Estates): This is an impressive Cabernet that features dark, concentrated fruit but is no mere powerhouse, as it also displays alluring aromatic complexity and refreshingly bright acidity.  Intense blackberry fruit is very deeply flavored and buttressed by lots of tannin, but the tannin is very ripe and fine in grain, with no drying effect upon the wine's finish.  Balanced notes of mint and spice lend real aromatic interest, and the finish is focused and long. 90 Michael Franz Sep 25, 2007

Pike's, Clare Valley (South Australia) SMG "The Assemblage" 2003 ($21, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): This blend of 56% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre and 17% Grenache is a dense and very ripe Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like wine.  The elevation of the Clare Valley -- its lowest point is 1,000 feet -- accounts for dramatic day/night temperature fluctuations, which allows the grapes -- and the wine -- to maintain acidity.  Not as big and ripe as wines coming out of Australia's Barossa Valley, this is still a burly wine. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2007

Wakefield Estate, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Cabernet "Promised Land" 2004 ($14, Brown Forman): This thoroughly likable Aussie blend has notes of spice, earth, dried herbs, cassis and licorice.  Perhaps because it comes from the relatively cool climate of Clare Valley (named by early Irish immigrants after the Emerald Isle's County Clare), the wine is linear rather than round and plush. (The jaunty sea horse on the label is not an example of 'critter label' trendiness, but rather a reference to three tiny fossilized seahorses unearthed during excavation on the estate, proof that an ancient inland sea once covered this land.) 89 Marguerite Thomas Jan 9, 2007

Jim Barry Wines, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “The Lodge Hill” 2005 ($17, Negociants, USA): Affordable but still jammed with all sorts of wonderful aromas and flavors, this exemplary Shiraz gets just the right balance between warm, ripe notes and cool, spicy, fresh, fruity ones.  The fruit notes show an interesting blend of red and black fruit notes, with red raspberry and black plum and blackberry all in the mix.  Wood is thankfully well in the background, and the overall impression is surprisingly fresh and medium-bodied when a check reveals a stated alcohol level of 15%. 88 Michael Franz Jul 3, 2007

Reilly’s Wines, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Barking Mad” 2007 ($15, Southern Starz): A very tasty wine with an amusing label (just in case you care about such things).  Although the wine is a bit on the juicy/chunky side of the spectrum, it offers very pleasant flavors of red raspberry and dark cherry with a little peppery bite in the finish.  There's just enough tannin and acidity to keep this seeming focused and defined, so this is certainly a candidate for near-term drinking. 88 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($16, Brown Forman): A very fruity, flavorful Shiraz, marked by exuberant fruit, a dash of pepper and spice, and just enough tannin to provide structure and focus.  The flavors are quite sweet, marking this as a wine that will pair well with equally sweet barbecue sauces. 88 Paul Lukacs Jan 16, 2007

Wakefield, Clare Valley / Coonawarra (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 'Jaraman' 2012 ($30): Wakefield's Jaraman Cab straddles two of South Australia's finest appellations and the result is a sensational Cabernet that exhibits rich aromas of blackberry and red currant, with a strong note of eucalyptus and spice. The tannins are supple and sweet. On the mid-palate the wine is layered and complex, firmly structured and shows excellent persistence on the finish. 92 Robert Whitley Feb 17, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley / McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz “Jaraman” 2019 ($32):  This outfit seems to do no wrong when it comes to Shiraz, from their basic bottlings up to wines north of one hundred dollars.  The 2019 Jaraman falls in the center of the portfolio, and it is a gem, as usual.  There’s a fine balance struck between the fruit and the menthol, letting both elements show their best.  Racy acidity bodes well for a long life, but you won’t have to worry about that – it’s too good right now.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.          
95 Rich Cook Feb 2, 2021

Taylors, Clare Valley / McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 'Jaraman' 2013 ($30): Taylors' Jaraman Shiraz sources grapes from two of the finest appellations in South Australia, both of which are cooler and produce more firmly structured reds than the more famous Barossa Valley. This combination of Clare Valley and McLaren Vale fruit delivers an exceptionally complex, beautifully balanced Shiraz that's especially good for the price. Showing black fruits, spice and a touch of eucalyptus, the Jaraman is full-bodied without being heavy, with a long, lingering finish that begs another sip. 94 Robert Whitley Feb 3, 2015

Hill of Content, Clare Valley / McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache Shiraz 2003 ($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Despite being the minority of the blend -- 20 percent -- the weight of black fruit from Shiraz barrels through in this riper, more overt wine.  There's smokiness along with a taste of succulent sour cherries.  It has remarkable power, but it's not particularly heavy.  Fine tannins make it easy to enjoy now. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2007

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley and McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz "Jaraman" 2021 ($32):  Leave it to the often-informal Aussies to compose a wine from two different growing regions and then turn out something really special.  Both floral and meaty and peppery and muscular, this successfully melds some of the most appealing characters that can be derived from Shiraz in South Australia into a complex but coherent whole — one that is greater than the sum of its parts.  Although still very young, this is so deftly blended that there’s no reason to wait before cracking into this.  Bloody brilliant.     
94 Michael Franz Feb 28, 2023

McWilliam’s, Conawarra (South Australia, Australia) Stentiford’s Reserve 2002 ($55, McWilliam’s of Australia): This excellent wine delivers lots of aroma, richness and depth of flavor while never seeming chunky or obvious.  Thanks to Coonawarra's relatively cool climate, the fruit is fresh and almost bright, which is especially impressive given its relatively advanced age for a current release.  Notes of black plums and dark berries are quite expressive, and are augmented by accents of pepper, spices, and subtle woodsmoke. 91 Michael Franz Nov 13, 2007

Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “John Riddoch” 2004 ($60, Foster's Wine Estates): Wynns' best Cabernet, the John Riddoch bottling is made entirely from fruit grown on their vineyards in the heart of Coonawarra.  It's a barrel selection of their best Cabernet, according to Sue Hodder, Wynns' senior winemaker.  She's not looking for the biggest style wine when she selects barrels, and will eliminate those with hard tannins because she is looking for parcels that will make an elegant, polished kind of wine.  She has succeeded admirably in 2004.  Herbs, chocolate, and black cherries are all mixed together in the nose and on the palate.  For all its intensity, it has extraordinary balance and length.  Tannins are fine and firm, not astringent.   It gets my highest accolade, WB, which stands for 'would buy.' 96 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007

Heirloom Vineyards, Coonawarra (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($40):  This is a fine example of Cabernet from Coonawarra, which is notably cooler than the other famous red wine appellations of South Australia such as McLaren Vale or Barossa.  This translates into Cabernets that are typically fresher in acidity and more focused in “shape” and texture, often with a light herbal tinge reminiscent of Cabernet from the world’s best regions prior to the acceleration of climate change.  This wine will still unfold many complexities in the years ahead for those who can manage to stay patient, which won’t be easy as the wine is already delicious in a straightforward way.  Still, what I like best about this is how tightly coiled the wine is now, but without seeming at all “hard” or inexpressive.         
94 Michael Franz Mar 14, 2023

Penley Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Special Select “The Traveller” 2005 ($50, Old Bridge Cellars):  Completely convincing, this is a very big wine, weighing in at a stated 15% alcohol.  It is absolutely packed with deep, concentrated flavors of blackberries, black currants, and bing cherries, along with a firm lashing of oak that accentuates the spicy character of the fruit and provides some wood tannin to help structure the finish.  Big but not just big, it shows enough acidity to seem pure and even fresh despite its ripeness, and the symmetry of fruit, acidity, sweetness, spice, tannin, and savory notes makes the wine interesting and appealing sip after sip. 94 Michael Franz Oct 26, 2010

Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($39, Treasury Wine Estates): New World Cabernet Sauvignon rarely achieve the degree of elegance and liveliness on the palate of the Wynns bottling.  Drawn from the famous terra rossa soils of South Australia’s Coonawarra district, the 2010 Wynn’s reflects the classic style of the region.  Plush blackcurrant and blackberry fruit aromas are underscored by lovely nuances of mint, vanilla, savory green herbs and baking spices.  The flavors are lifted, layered and long with opulent black fruits enhanced by hints of smoke, herbs, cinnamon and vanilla.  This is a beautifully balanced Cabernet that exhibits a remarkably refreshing style that others would do well to emulate.  Although very attractive now, the 2010 Wynns Cabernet will develop added nuance and interest with another five years of more of age.
93 Wayne Belding Jun 10, 2014

McWilliam’s, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Brand’s Liara Vineyard 2002 ($28, McWilliam’s of Australia): The Shiraz release at this level from McWilliam's is very, very good, whereas this wine is downright fantastic.  It is highly aromatic and very flavorful, yet it is so balanced and proportionate that it never seems garish or overdone.  The fruit is dark and intense, with notes of blackberry and blackcurrants that are accented with undertones of  cocoa, eucalyptus and toast.  Still showing lots of primary fruit after more than five years of age, it also shows excellent integration thanks to that time in bottle, with a lovely softness to the tannic structure.  A terrific wine and a very good deal. 92 Michael Franz Nov 13, 2007

Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($18, Foster's Wine Estates): Frequently known simply as Wynns' Black Label in Australia, this is consistently one of that country's great Cabernets.  It's track record for aging is matched only by a few of Penfolds' legendary wines--Grange, St. Henri and  Bin 707--though all of those ring up at considerably higher prices.  The aromas of this wine scream Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon with an alluring mixture of herbs, subtle mint and earthiness.  Hints of chocolate and cassis emerge from this balanced wine.  Unlike many Australian Cabernets that wow you with power, this grabs your attention with its finesse and length.  Delightful to drink now, it will age for decades.  So, if you're tired of paying big bucks for Cabernet, stock up. 92 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007

Petaluma, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2002 ($35, Beam Wine Estates): Fully mature and phenomenally complex for the money, this wine delivers a terrific array of notes on both the nose and palate.  Black plum and dark cherry fruit notes show lots of little nuances thanks to some emerging bottle bouquet and a well measured dose of smoke and spice from wood.  The texture is likewise very interesting, with a nice balance of softness and structure. 91 Michael Franz Sep 25, 2007

Angove's, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Vineyard Select" 2004 ($20, Trinchero Vineyards): Most $20 Cabernets from around the world would be pretty tough to place, but this one sure smells and tastes of Coonawarra, which is potentially one of the world's best terroirs for Cab. Aromas include blackberries and blackcurrants, along with an herbal (though not green or vegetal) note that suggests well-ripened Cab from a cool climate. Oak is notable but quite subtle, and fresh acidity (another telltale note associated with cool climates) will make this a delicious partner for moderately robust foods like veal chops or grilled duck as well as the more usual suspects such as steak. 90 Michael Franz Mar 21, 2006

McWilliams of Coonawarra, Coonawarra (South Australia) Shiraz "Old Vine, Stentiford's Reserve" 2002 ($55, McWilliams of Australia): The vines for this wine, some of which are still producing fruit, were first planted in the Laira Vineyard in 1896 by Captain Stentiford, an English sea captain.  McWilliams has avoided the temptation to make an over-the-top Shiraz from low-yielding vines that produce concentrated fruit.  Rather, its deep plummy flavors are accented by a hint of pepper, which extend into a fine finish.  It's a classy, refined wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008

Penfolds, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz "Bin 128" 2004 ($23, PWG Vintners): One of two delicious Shiraz bottlings in this line from Penfolds, Bin 128 is virtually always the more austere and structured of the two, and that is the case in 2004.  With a bright, spicy edge on a core of intense, dark berry fruit, this also shows subtle oak accents and excellent overall quality. 90 Michael Franz Apr 24, 2007

Penfolds, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz "Bin 128" 2008 ($26, FWE Imports):  Unlike most Shirazes from Australia, which tend to feel soft and taste somewhat sweet, this wine is quite firm, with hard tannins, and deep, dark flavors.  Filled with promise, it can be enjoyed now if you decant it, but surely will benefit from a few years (or more) of cellaring.  Should it evolve and mature as I suspect it will, it will merit an even higher score.  90 Paul Lukacs Jun 14, 2011

Penfolds, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2008 ($23, FWE Imports):  Very different from a Barossa Shiraz, Penfolds’s Bin 128 Shiraz shows the importance of location within Australia, a country with scores of different climates.  Similar to their Barossa Shiraz, this one from Coonawarra comes exclusively from their grapes.  But because Coonawarra is cooler than Barossa, the Bin 128 shows the peppery, spicy side of Shiraz rather than the bigger plumier version associated with Barossa.  Its herbal, almost minty notes, and its freshness also reflect the cooler growing area.  It would be a great choice for lamb on the grill. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011

Zema Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) "Cluny" 2001 ($25, Boutique International): Zema is one of my two or three favorite producers in Coonawarra, a region of great but often unrealized potential for reds in South Australia. Whereas many producers prune by machine (largely due to local labor shortages), Zema prunes and harvests by hand. The pruning is especially important, as this makes it possible to get better sun exposure for the grape clusters, which is often necessary to get Cabernet ripe in Coonawarra's cool climate. This Bordeaux-style blend is nicely balanced and quite complex, with fruit notes of blackcurrant and blackberry nicely accented with a leafy, dried herb aroma and subtle oak in the background. 90 Michael Franz May 2, 2006

McWilliam’s, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Brand’s Liara Vineyard 2002 ($28, McWilliam’s of Australia): An impressively complex wine with a price tag under $30, this combines lots of primary fruit with some very nice emerging notes from bottle ageing.  The core fruit notes show red berries and black cherries, augmented by appealing notes of spices and leather.  The oak has been absorbed almost completely, but it seems to lend some spiciness and a lightly toasty undertone.  Despite having softened with age, this remains very much alive and actually quite fresh.  A deal. 89 Michael Franz Nov 13, 2007

Penley Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) “Condor” 2007 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  A blend of Shiraz (77%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (the remaining 23%), this is a vibrant red with plenty of full fruit flavor.  It also exhibits a distinct streak of menthol or eucalyptus, especially in the finish.  That’s something I found appealing, but buyers should know about it before they take the plunge. 89 Paul Lukacs May 25, 2010

Rosemount, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Show Reserve” 2005 ($21, FWE Imports): This is a textbook example of the exceptionally deeply colored and full-bodied wines that can come out of Coonawarra, largely considered  Australia's premium red wine zone.  With generous doses of blackberries and dark cherries, cedar, chocolate and mint, it won't disappoint anyone who loves wines with assertive Aussie personality. 89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 30, 2007

Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($16, PWG Vintners): This Cabernet sports a familiar black label and boasts an impressive history that includes some remarkable wines from the 1960s and 1970s that still taste great today. The 2002 bottling features a winning combination of deeply flavored but fresh Cabernet fruit with a balanced dose of spicy smoky oak. Coonawarra's cool climate shows itself in the form of bright acidity that lifts the whole package and lends focus to the fruit flavors. 89 Michael Franz Aug 1, 2006

Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($16, PWG Vintners): Known simply as Wynns Black Label in Australia, their Cabernet Sauvignon delivers reliably every year. The 2002, with its herbal and mint nuances combined with attractive fleshiness, is no exception. Never, jammy or overblown, their Cabernet often develops beautifully with bottle aging as demonstrated by stellar examples from the 1970s, which are still delicious today. But it's so engaging now, it's hard to imagine it will remain in your cellar for long. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

Penley Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Phoenix” 2006 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Not many bottlings of Cabernet from the famed appellation of Coonawarra can still be found in this price range, largely because Coonawarra and Margaret River have become the two most prestigious regions for growing Cabernet in Australia--with land prices that have risen accordingly.  This wine is true to its place of origin, with good intensity to the dark berry fruit, but also a subtly leafy, herbal, mineral character that reflects the restrained ripeness that Cabernet grapes generally acquire in Coonawarra's relatively cool climate.  Acidity and tannin are notable, yet nicely symmetrical in relation to the weight of the fruit. 88 Michael Franz Sep 23, 2008

Penley Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon - Shiraz “Condor” 2009 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  Penley Estate is one of the leading red wine makers in Coonawarra, a premium South Australia region for Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.  This blend of 52% Shiraz and 48% Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in a combination of French and American oak.  It shows a deep purple-ruby color, going almost black at the core.  The aromatics are forward ripe raspberry with a low intensity herbal accent.  Rich and mouth-filling, it’s supported by big tannins and finishes with lots of oak and 14.5% alcohol.  The Condor on the label should help this value red fly out the wine shop door.
88 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 27, 2012

Rosemount, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Show Reserve" 2005 ($21, FWE Imports): Rosemount has re-launched its Show Reserve line, which includes two Cabernets.  This bottling from Coonawarra packs a lot of aroma and flavor on to a relatively compact frame.  bright blackberry notes intermingle with light cassis and a nice whiff of spicy oak, and the overall impression is one of purity and freshness. 88 Michael Franz Nov 20, 2007

Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot 2002 ($16, PWG Vintners): One must bemoan the striking price increase for this wine (the suggested retail for the 2001 was $11), but the 2002 is a better wine, with deeper color, more stuffing, and less distracting eucalyptus character. Full-bodied but not heavy, it features nice notes of dark berries, fresh meat, cocoa, flowers and spicy oak. Priced at the same level as Wynns' 2004 Shiraz, this is clearly a more complex and interesting wine, though not up to the level of the 2001 Cabernet, which merits the 92 points it was awarded here by Michael Apstein. 88 Michael Franz Dec 6, 2005

Yalumba, Coonawarra and Barossa (South Australia) "The Caley" 2012 ($350, Negociants USA):   Yalumba’s inaugural offering of ‘The Caley’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz is a spectacular success.  It will rank among the top wines of Australia for decades to come.  Drawn from vineyards in Coonawarra for the Cabernet and the Barossa for the Shiraz, it achieves a degree of elegance and liveliness on the palate that it remarkable.  Plush blackcurrant and blackberry fruit aromas are underscored by lovely nuances of violet, mint, cocoa, vanilla, savory green herbs and baking spices.  The flavors are lifted, layered and long with opulent black fruits enhanced by a red fruit lilt that is seamlessly interwoven with hints of cedar, herbs, cocoa, vanilla and spice.  This is a beautifully balanced red with an exquisitely silky texture that tantalizes with its complexity.  It is powerful, but not at all heavy.  It will age well for decades, perhaps reaching a delicious peak at twenty years of age.  It is expensive, but worthy of comparison with similarly-priced reds from anywhere in the world. 97 Wayne Belding Oct 24, 2017

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (South Australia) Shiraz Red Queen of the Eden Valley 2012 ($85): After winning a Platinum Award and a 93 point score at the 2014 San Diego International Wine Competition, you'd think that the marketplace would have scooped up the remainder of this stunning Shiraz from winemaker Elena Brooks.  Fortunately, the wine makes a return trip north and lands another Platinum Award at the 2015 SDIWC, and adds two points to last year's score to boot.  This is one sexy beast of a wine, with its high toned mix of red and black berries complimented by vibrant pepper and leaf notes. Supple tannins and singing acidity help extend the finish and keep the flavors balanced.
95 Rich Cook Jan 27, 2015

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (South Australia) Shiraz “Red Queen of the Eden Valley” 2012 ($85): This is an expensive wine with a rather weighty name as well, so you might wonder whether it can live up to its advance billing.  In terms of sheer assertiveness of flavor, one could hardly ask for more, as the slightly stewed flavor notes show both red and black fruit tones.  Interestingly -- and admirably -- the wood is not remotely obtrusive, which shows very good judgment in letting the fruit shine from center stage.  Tannins are sufficiently prominent to lend needed structure to the ripe fruit, but there’s nothing astringent or overly gripping about their impact on the wine’s finish.  Pair with meat dishes treated with a spicy rub.  Platinum award winner at the 2014 San Diego International Wine Competition.
93 Michael Franz Apr 15, 2014

Dandelion Vineyards, Fleurieu (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Pride of the Fleurieu 2017 ($28): Dandelion's Pride of the Fleurieu Cabernet Sauvignon shows a nose of eucalyptus, wood spice and blueberry and blackberry fruit, aromas that follow on the palate, which is rich, dense and supple, with excellent length.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
94 Robert Whitley Sep 25, 2018

Dandelion Vineyards, Fleurieu (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Pride of the Fleurieu" 2017 ($28):  This wine scores again at its second Challenge appearance.  Dandelion's Pride of the Fleurieu Cabernet Sauvignon shows a nose of eucalyptus, wood spice and blueberry and blackberry fruit, aromas that follow on the palate, which is rich, dense and supple, with excellent length.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.    
94 Robert Whitley Jun 18, 2019

Zonte's Footstep, Fleurieu (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Blackberry Patch” 2017 ($28):  Laced with a little Tempranillo, this Aussie Cabernet lives up to its name with delicious fruit recalling blackberries as well as black cherries.  Thankfully, there’s no heavy overlay of oak to obscure the very flavorful fruit, which shows great purity thanks to judicious timing on picking, with no over-ripe notes.  Pair with robust foods, but don’t worry about overwhelming more modest fare like duck or a pork chop, as this is so well balanced that it will prove very versatile at the table.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.  
92 Michael Franz Apr 16, 2019

Shoo Fly, Fleurieu (Australia) 'Shoofly Aussie Salute' 2006 ($14, Old Bridge Cellars):

This is a very expressive, flavorful red blend that shows fruit notes of dark berries and red cherries, along with lots of peppery, spicy accents in the finish.  Any wood influence is so slight as to be unimportant, leaving the ripe, slightly sweet fruit in the foreground.

Zonte's Footstep, Langhorne Creek (South Australia) Malbec Violet Beauregard 2012 ($22): Malbec from Australia may not be on anyone's radar, but if this beauty from Zonte's Footstep is an indicator of potential, then Argentina could be challenged in its dominance of this growing red-wine category. The Zonte's Footstep is ultra-suave, showing ripe red-fruit aromas on the nose and supple smoothness on the palate. This wine took platinum at the recent Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 93 Robert Whitley Jan 28, 2014

Zonte's Footstep, Langhorne Creek (Australia) Shiraz “Lake Doctor” 2016 ($25, Artisans & Vines):  This compellingly delicious wine easily justifies its price…and then some.  Displaying deep color as well as expressive aromatics, deep flavors, balanced wood and energetic acidity, the wine is impressively complete.  All of these sensory elements work well together, with none of them overpowering the others.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
93 Michael Franz Apr 3, 2018

Take It To The Grave, Langhorne Creek (Australia) Shiraz 2020 ($18, Fourth Wave Wine Co.):  I don’t know that I’ve tasted a Shiraz at this young stage in life before.  This one is quite pleasant, with all the textbook characteristics of the variety presented with plush midpalate texture and a bright acid kiss in the finish.  Angus burgers, please!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.          
92 Rich Cook Feb 9, 2021

Wolf Blass, Langhorne Creek (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Grey Label" 2008 ($35, FWE Imports):  Its overall hue is as dark and purple as a shiny eggplant, and it has flavors of blue-black fruits, including blueberries, blackberries, and deep vermillion cherries.  On the palate it is rich, vibrant and nuanced with hints of eucalyptus and cedar, and it finishes with soft, juicy tannins.  Delicious now, it will undoubtedly evolve over the next decade or so, so drink it tonight or hang on to it for future enjoyment--either way, you won’t be disappointed. 90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 3, 2010

Bleasdale, Langhorne Creek (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Mulberry Tree” 2005 ($16, Southern Starz): An interesting and stylish Cabernet, this shows very nice fruit notes recalling red and black raspberries along with accent notes of spices and mint.  Medium bodied, it is not as rich or heavy as you might expect from an Australian Cabernet, and there is likewise more acidity than you might guess.  These are by no means criticisms, and you'll find that this is a very pleasant partner for moderately robust foods such as duck, pork or veal--though it can also hold its own with less assertive preparations of lamb or beef. 88 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Bleasdale Vineyards, Langhorne Creek (South Australia, Australia) “Langhorne Crossing” 2006 ($10, Southern Starz): This is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Malbec, 15% Shiraz, and 6% Petit Verdot.  The alcohol checks in at 14%, and the wine is relatively restrained in ripeness and fairly fresh in overall profile, with nice red berry fruit in the forefront, but also some dark toned fruit as well.  Spicy backnotes and some freshening acidity provide little lift, and though the wine really checks in a medium-bodied, it shows very fine-grained tannin that is well balanced to the weight of the fruit.  It will work well with many moderately-robust foods ranging from white meats like veal or pork to lighter red meats like lamb leg or roasted beef. 87 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Wolf Blass, Langhorne Creek (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Grey Label" 2004 ($32, FEW Imports): This robust Cabernet shows concentrated cassis and blackberry fruit accented by notes of mint and spicy oak.  Although the fruit is fully ripe, it also shows some tangy acidity that keeps the wine seeming fresh and focused on the palate. 87 Michael Franz Dec 12, 2006

Greg Norman Estates, Limestone Coast (South Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2012 ($40): South Australia's Limestone Coast is starting to show up on more labels that are making it to the US market, and this wine shows that to be a good thing.  Full-bodied and very rich, it shows real elegance, delivering blackberry and black cherry, with very light hints of menthol and spearmint in a way that lets you know where it came from, but not overtly so.  This is a delicious drink on its own, or try serving it alongside grilled meats of multiple colors.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Sep 15, 2015

Jacob’s Creek, Limestone Coast (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2019 ($18, Pernod Ricard):  Wow – this wine bursts with sense of place and varietal correctness.  There is no doubt about what’s in your glass, and if you love textbook Aussie style, you can’t go wrong here.  Then factor in the low price, and your cart will suddenly fill up!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.      
94 Rich Cook Sep 28, 2021

Red Yonnie Estate Winery, Limestone Coast (South Australia) Shiraz 2021 ($17, Hemispheres):  Let us hope that Aussie wines will roar back into the USA market in the wake of a long, lamentable downturn in availability of examples like this that pack loads of flavor into a reasonably priced bottle.  Lest that last sentence be misunderstood, this wine is no stupid fruit bomb, as the relatively cool climate in the Limestone Coast resulted in a lengthened growing season and more layered aromas and flavors than one would likely expect from $17 Shiraz.  With fruit that is robust but not obvious and interesting savory accents, this is substantial and interesting at once.      
92 Michael Franz Feb 28, 2023

Greg Norman, Limestone Coast (South Australia) Shiraz 2010 ($15): This wine is reminiscent of a time when Australia routinely delivered exceptional quality red wines in this modest price range. While that isn’t so much the case anymore, Norman’s Limestone Coast Shiraz is one of the exceptions. It exhibits good weight and richness on the palate, with layered aromas of blueberry and blackberry that carry through a lingering finish. The tannins are nicely integrated and the wine shows a hint of spice.
89 Robert Whitley May 28, 2013

Greg Norman, Limestone Coast (South Australia) Cabernet Merlot 2010 ($15): This relatively young region in South Australia is well regarded for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, so it’s hardly a surprise that Norman has been able to craft a delicious blend from those grapes, sourced from the mineral-rich Limestone Coast, which is slightly cooler than other areas of South Australia. The result is a Bordeaux-style blend with a firm Bordeaux-like structure, but with the obvious sun-kissed sensibilities of an Aussie wine. Flavors run the gamut from red to black fruits, and there is a distinct note of eucalyptus, which is the gum tree that is prolific in Australia, although I suspect the source of that aroma in this wine is new American oak.
88 Robert Whitley May 28, 2013

Jip Jip Rocks, Limestone Coast (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Cabernet 2007 ($19, Kysela): This is a very tasty wine that shows dark berry fruit accented with a eucalyptus aromatic note that lends complexity without distracting from the wine’s fruit-driven character.  Light wood accents provide a bit of additional interest, and the tannins are abundant but fine grained, and the sheer juiciness of the fruit is able to counterbalance them and keep the finish seeming pure and fresh rather than overly dry. 88 Michael Franz Jun 30, 2009

d’Arenberg, McLaren Sand Hills (McLaren Vale, South Australia) Grenache 2010 ($85, Old Bridge Cellars):  Before you’d plunk down $85 for a bottle of Grenache, I’d guess you’d need assurance that what you’d be getting would be comparable to the very best bottlings of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  Well, I’m here to offer you assurance of exactly that.  This shows soaring aromas and persistent flavors of fresh pie cherries, wild strawberries and even a hint of cranberry, along with floral and spice accents.  The flavors are quite open and generous, yet the wine finishes with lots of tannic grip, and I have no doubt that it will continue to improve if cellared for a full decade.  Once those 10 years have passed, my guess is that my score will look stingy rather than generous. 94 Michael Franz Oct 15, 2013

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache Kangarilla Vineyard NV ($70, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Structured, deeply flavored, inviting ripe berry fruit leads the way in this wine, with nice accents of anise and sweet spices.  It is balanced, exotic and offers great length and promise as well as impressive finesse.  The mouth-filling, peppery flavors are textured and long, with firm tannins and good balancing acidity.   As lovely and inviting as this Grenache is now, give it at least five more years, after which it will hold for at least another five years. To my taste, Kangarilla defines the variety and is my favorite of the five Clarendon Hills Grenaches. 95 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Syrah Hickinbotham Vineyard 2004 ($100, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Powerful and fruity amply describes this juicy Syrah. The layered flavors are complex with anise, dark fruits and hints of roasted coffee.  The balance and length are impeccable, inviting a closer look and that important second glass. 95 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz “The Swinging Malaysian” 2010 ($85, Old Bridge Cellars): d’Arenberg has turned up the power here while simultaneously increasing the polish of this Shiraz.  A luxurious wine, its suave texture is all the more impressive considering its power.  A dense and dark earthy quality has replaced the flowery aspect found in their Laughing Magpie.  A long and refined finish reinforces the wine’s elegance.  I suspect it will develop beautifully providing even more enjoyment over the years, but it’s hard to resist now.  This is cashmere.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “The Dead Arm” 2006 ($65, Old Bridge Cellars): The Dead Arm is one of a handful of Australian Shiraz that is a top performer vintage after vintage.  The name comes from a vine disease that reduces one arm of a vine to dead wood, while the rest of the vine produces intensely-flavored grapes.  Aged 20 months in French and American oak, the '06 Dead Arm is plump with dark fruits and berries, hints of anise and complex berry and chocolate flavors.  The tannins are ripe and refined and the finish, at 14.5% alcohol, is complete and promising.  Here is an excellent Australian Shiraz for the ages and a solid bargain. 95 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 4, 2008

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz "The Dead Arm" 2003 ($65, Old Bridge Cellars): This is not only one of d'Arenberg's best wines, but also the one with the most intriguing name. Eutypa Lata is a fungus that causes half of the vine (a branch or "arm") to be reduced to dead wood. Rather than pruning out the dead wood, d'Arenberg believes in leaving the vine with one atrophied arm so that the opposite side will produce ripe fruit with great intensity. This Dead Arm bottling lends credence to the theory. Dense and ripe with deep red berry aromas and flavors, it has rich texture, notable oak, and great balancing acidity. Don't write an epitaph for this vibrant Shiraz. 95 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

Heirloom Vineyards, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Touriga 2017 ($40):  Touriga is widely regarded as the single finest red variety of Portugal (which helps explain why the Portuguese refer to it is “Touriga Nacional”).  It is famously refined but also robustly tannic, which makes it is great candidate--theoretically--for planting in a warm, sunny region such as McLaren Vale.  This is the first wine that has taken me from “theory” to “practice” on its suitability for Australian winemaking, and it is utterly convincing in the glass.  Deeply pigmented, it looks formidable, and yet the aromas are quite inviting, with topnotes of violets and spices as well as ripe red fruit.  On the palate, the fruit shows both red and black tones, with excellent acidity for a warm growing region and tannins that are grippy but never aggressive, thanks to the forgivingly plush fruit.  Terrific wine…and quite reasonably priced in view of its stellar quality.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge. 
95 Michael Franz Mar 27, 2018

Alpha Crucis, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Titan 2014 ($18):  Rich and full-bodied, the 2014 Titan cab from Alpha Crucis exhibits complex layers of blackberry and cassis, with a hint of violet and oak spice. On the palate the wine is smooth and juicy, with exceptional persistence of flavor through the finish. A platinum award-winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

Heirloom Vineyards, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2021 ($40):  Heirloom has two very interesting renditions of the same variety in current release, this burly Shiraz from McLaren Vale and a tauter Syrah from the cooler Adelaide Hills.  The pair offer an instructive primer on the starkly differing shades that this great variety can show from two Aussie sites separated only a short drive.  This Shiraz is very deeply colored and commensurately deep in flavor.  Although there are no surprises in these respects, the wine provides special interest in its immaculate purity of fruit, with a low oak load and an absence of eucalyptus notes leaving it with a straightforward — but not simple — character marked by great linear intensity.  This has a tightly coiled profile that will permit many years of positive development, but it also offers immediate enjoyability with robust foods.        
94 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2023

Tir Na N'og, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache "Old Vines" 2004 ($25, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Proprietor/winemaker/importer John Larchet, an Irishman who  has embraced the land of Oz, named this wine after an Irish legend. In Gaelic it means "Land of the Youth" and it is an apt description of this precocious, youthful wine made, ironically John observes, from "old" vines. The beauty of an "old vine" grenache is the vibrancy and sweetness of its fruit. This one's a bomb. Loaded with succulent red and black fruit aromas, a rich, layered palate and spice accents that complement the hedonistic voluptuousness of this wine. It's also nicely balanced for such a rich wine (15.5 percent alcohol). 94 Robert Whitley Nov 21, 2006

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "The Coppermine Road" 2002 ($65, Old Bridge Cellars): This stylish Cabernet, blended with 3% Petite Verdot, is named for the road that forms the border on the west of the property, known for producing "the winery's best Cabernet Sauvignon." It's dense and concentrated, with forward green olive and bell pepper accents, firm refined tannins, dense fruit flavors, and great length. Much emphasis is placed today on New World Cabernet Sauvignons that maximize the fruit end of the flavor spectrum. The Coopermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon is a welcome exception. 93 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

Kilikanoon, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “M” Reserve 2006 ($70, Old Bridge Cellars):  Exceedingly flavorful and yet not over-the-top, this is a very well made-wine that was likewise crafted from very well-grown fruit.  Very dense and concentrated, it shows deep color and flavor, with notes of dark berries and black plums accented with spices and toast around the edges.  It was aged in American oak for 24 months, which would overwhelm the fruit in a lesser wine, but in this case the concentrated juice has already soaked up most of the overt wood notes, leaving only some nicely tuned suggestions of woodsmoke and spices around the edges of the fruit. 93 Michael Franz Aug 3, 2010

Mitolo, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Serpico" 2004 ($65, Epicurean Wines): Yes, the wine is named after that Serpico, the New York cop from the 1970s who bucked a corrupt New York police department.  So far, so good, but:  the premise here is that this producer declares a purportedly comparable desire to 'step outside our peers and redefine the accepted style of Australian wine.'  This is a bit puzzling since this is a very big, very intense wine, and in this regard hardly at odds with the Barossa norm.  In any case, while the label verbiage may be curious, the wine is totally convincing, with marvelously dense concentration and depth of flavor that seems almost bottomless.  Blackberries and cassis are the lead fruit notes, with a little whiff of mint and spice lending added interest.  Oak is relatively restrained, and the tannins are wonderfully fine in grain.  Deadly stuff, this is a deal at $65. 93 Michael Franz Dec 12, 2006

Rosemount, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Syrah 'Balmoral' 2004 ($45, Foster's Wine Estates): It's a treat to come across an Aussie Syrah that's beginning to exhibit mature aromas, although the primary fruit continues very much alive. Balmoral is Rosemount's benchmark red and it seldom disappoints. The '04 is a suave example, with a silky palate, genuine dark-fruited complexity and exceptional length, with a warm, satisfying finish. There is a smoky note to this vintage, as well as hints of dried herbs, spice and black olive. 93 Robert Whitley Apr 21, 2009

Shrivington, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2006 ($60, Quintessential): Purplish and intense, this stellar Aussie wine inundates the palate with soft, creamy layers of blueberry, smoked meat, chocolate, and licorice.  It was 100% barrel fermented and aged 12 months in barrel (90% American, 10% French). It could probably be successfully cellared for another couple of years, but it seems at the peak of perfection right now.  I had the wine recently with a rib eye steak—Nirvana! 93 Marguerite Thomas May 18, 2010

Chapel Hill, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache “Bush Vine” 2010 ($35, American Estates Wines):  If you love grilled meat with a spicy rub, you should tune into the fact that a serious rendition of Garnacha from Spain or Grenache from France or Australia is the Holy Grail of wine accompaniments for your beloved food.  This wine is a stellar example, showing wonderfully open, aromatic, deeply flavorful fruit recalling both red and black cherries as well as a raspberry note and a nice little kick of spice in the finish.  Wines in this mode that are too ripe and thick become tiring to drink over time, but this one gets the style just right. 92 Michael Franz Apr 3, 2012

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache Hickinbotham Vineyard 2004 ($61, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Hickinbotham is a generous wine with characteristic ripe raspberry flavors, a hint of mint, sweet fruit, brisk acidity and great texture and length.  This is an excellent example of Grenache's ability to conjure up the recollection of pure, ripe raspberries. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Syrah Liandra Vineyard 2004 ($78, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Liandra is primarily 100-year-old vines. The small yield gives the wine dense and concentrated flavors, marked by white pepper, dark chocolate and bright dark fruits.  Generous in flavors, it has excellent balance and length. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Syrah Brookman Vineyard 2004 ($100, Wine Brokers Unlimited): This is a full-stop Syrah showing all the generous attributes of this great grape.  Voluptuous texture, deep layered dark berry flavors, hints of anise and nicely balanced firm tannins are its primary attractions. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Coates, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($37, The Australian Premium Wine Collection):

Dwayne Coates is a winemaking consultant of some note, but makes a small bit of wine under his own label. His Shiraz offers a lovely white pepper nuance on the nose and fresh, vibrant blueberries and other dark fruit aromas on the palate. Hints of licorice and brown spices deliver another layer of complexity to this tightly wound, well balanced Shriaz that shows remarkable restraint, proving yet again an Aussie Shiraz doesn't have to be opulent and over-ripe to be wonderful. This wine has excellent potential for cellaring for up to 10 years or more.

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre/Viog "The Cadenzia" 2003 ($25, Old Bridge Cellars): I tasted this 2003 at the winery, but it was never shipped to the United States; the 2004 Cadenzia GSM is in the market, without the addition of a little Viognier that lifted the fruit of the 2003. The name for this new addition to the d'Arenberg line is taken from the meaning of "cadenza," or "a soloist virtuoso." The wine is intended to show off the region's Grenache while the package is d'Arenberg's means of showing off the "Zork," a plastic stopper designed in South Australia with a peel-off tab that is one of the latest wine closure contenders. My impression of the 2003 The Cadenizia was very good, with its forward bright fruit flavors, nicely integrated oak notes, and good length through the balanced finish. If the 2004 is as good, it will be a hit! I wish that I had the same good words for the Zork. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

DeLisio, Mclaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($75, Epicurean Wines):

This extraordinary wine is absolutely packed with rich, ripe berry flavors, and yet it never seems chunky or obvious or tiresome. Massively concentrated yet still somehow graceful, it succeeds because the fruit shows exceptional purity and a nice spiciness in the finish that keeps it from seeming syrupy. First rate juice!

Fox Creek, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz/Grenache 2001 ($19, Vineyard Brands): This is yet another intense Australian wine that carries its 14.5+ percent alcohol effortlessly. A juicy combination of spice from Grenache and rich plumminess from Shiraz makes this wine a joy to drink. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006

Shirvington, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2007 ($70, Quintessential):  Few of us are used to paying seventy bucks for a bottle of Shiraz, but this is truly an exceptional wine.  From the moment one’s senses experience the dense, chocolaty, spicy aromas, through the rush of ripe, juicy berries and savory spices, all the way to the fine, silky finish, every moment of drinking this beautifully structured wine brings absolute pleasure.   Don’t get me wrong: this is not one of those Aussie wines whose particular type of charm is based on brawn and power alone.  This wine is more like a superb athlete--Rafael Nadal, let’s say--who’s powerful physique strength is further enhanced by his exquisite grace and finesse. 92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 5, 2010

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “The Coppermine Road” 2006 ($65, Old Bridge Cellars): Among the most honored producers of Australian wines from Rhône varieties, d'Arenberg has continuously produced an extensive line of Shiraz and Rhone-style blends, from McLaren Vale, that carry names as distinctive as the wines.  The Coppermine Road is unmistakably Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, with intensely deep purple-red color, concentrated blackberry nose with underlying mint and a richly textured flavor that shows plenty of dark fruits and traces of dried herbs.  The Coppermine Road was aged 18 months in French oak, finished at 14.5% alcohol and should age well for years to come. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 4, 2008

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) “d’Arry’s Original” 2005 ($19, Old Bridge Cellars):  The 2005 d’Arry’s Original is a fifty-fifty blend of Grenache and Shiraz, the Grenache aged in French and American oak small barrels and large oak casks for 12 months and the Shiraz for up to 22 months.  A brilliant, deep ruby color with purple rims leads to aromatic scents of ripe raspberry and spice with hints of smoky oak.  There is firmness and texture in the ripe berry flavors, and the wine has good length and structure.  The 2005 is drinking nicely now but will develop more complexity.  The price of d’Arry’s Original has remained at $19 for some time, making this 2005 a real bargain! 91 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 20, 2010

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache “The Custodian” 2007 ($19, Old Bridge Cellars):  Australia’s d’Arenberg has a solid reputation for producing Rhone-style red wines with depth, structure and character.  This 2007 Custodian Grenache doesn’t disappoint.  Aged for 12 months in new and older French and American oak barrels, the color is a deep ruby and the aromatics are fragrant with traces of smoked bacon, aromatic herbs, red fruits and lots of toasted oak.  The flavors are fruity, supported by firm tannins and acidity, 14.5% alcohol and no heat through the lengthy finish.
91 Gerald D. Boyd May 15, 2012

Mitolo, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz "Jester" 2004 ($23, Epicurean Wines): Having recently tasted the much more expensive (but very impressive) 'Serpico' bottlilng from this producer, I expected this bottling to check in several levels lower in quality.  In fact, what this showed was an apparent across-the-board commitment to serious concentration coupled with restrained use of oak.  Dark color and dense mouthfeel provided indications to this effect that were confirmed by deep flavors with black raspberry fruit notes predominant.  Although the aromas and flavors are quite intense, they show admirable purity and no raisining or over-extraction.  It isn't easy to make a wine that is both muscular and stylish, but here's a case in point. 91 Michael Franz Dec 19, 2006

Shirvington, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($60, Quintessential):  This particular vintage of Shirvington’s splendid Cabernet makes me think of the recently deceased Tony Curtis.  (Stay with me here).  Like the actor in his prime, the wine is engaging and charismatic, dark and handsome, with beautiful musculature and a distinctive personality.  Curtis, who notoriously left a series of wives in order to hitch up with ever younger mates, once said that he would never “be caught dead with a woman old enough to be my wife.”  So, as far as this 2008 Cab is concerned, you can emulate the actor and savor this vintage in all its youthful deliciousness, or hold off for another couple of years.  There’s no doubt that a little age will smooth out its rambunctious herbal perfume and wild, briary character, and though its youth and vigor excite the mouth now, just imagine the pleasure the wine will offer once it has developed more persistent, velvety sensations. 91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 5, 2010

Angarra, McLaren Vale (Australia) Grenache "Old Vine Single Vineyard" 2006 ($25, Sovereign Wine Imports):

Initially simply fruity, this wine benefits immensely from exposure to air and shows layered depth, with earthy, leathery notes emerging to enhance its still-bright primary flavors. This sort of development may occur naturally if the wine is cellared for five years or so, but at present you would be wise to decant it an hour or two before serving it. You'll then be delighted by it.

Angove's, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 'Vineyard Select' 2005 ($19): Angoves eschews the conventions when making its McLaren Vale Shiraz, striving for elegance and balance rather than power and tongue-coating thickness. The '05 shows exceptional restraint, with lovely red fruits complemented by a hint of minty eucalyptus and spice, all supported by firm tannins and the subtle presence of oak. 90 Robert Whitley Mar 10, 2009

Blackbilly, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($19, The Australian Premium Wine Collection):

If you've shied away from Australian Shriaz because massive, big shouldered red wines are not your cup of tea (of glass of wine) you might want to give the Blackbilly a look. Proprietor Nick Haselgrove comes from a longtime farming family that planted some of the first vines in McLaren Vale in the mid-1800s. His peppery Shiraz has an appealing leaness and surprising minerality considering the conventional wisdom that holds that riper fruit is better fruit. There is very little oak influence in this wine due to the use of older barrels, which give the wine the air it needs to develop without the spicy and smoky flavors imparted by new oak. This, I believe, is a concession to the delicacy of the fruit. Blackbilly should evolve nicely over the next several years, and it's a particularly good food wine.

Chateau Reynella, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache “Basket Pressed” 2004 ($24, International Cellars): Rich and dark and concentrated, but also bright and fresh, this is an impressive feat in both viticultural and winemaking terms.  Vivid fruit notes of cherries and plums are extremely appealing, and there's a faintly meat, earthy edge to the wine that enables it to transcend the rather simple character of so many run-of-the-mill Grenache bottlings from around the world.  The alcohol weighs in at 14.5%, but really isn't a factor in the aromas or flavors. 90 Michael Franz Oct 9, 2007

Chateau Reynella, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Basket Pressed” 2003 ($28, International Cellars): I have not tasted this wine for years, and don't know where it has been hiding, but an delighted that it has returned to US markets.  It is just as I remember it:  rich and concentrated and broad, with terrifically plush fruit and very subtle oak.  Notes of blackberries and dark cherries are accented with little nuances of toast and mint. 90 Michael Franz Oct 9, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache Clarendon Hills Vineyard 2004 ($61, Wine Brokers Unlimited): The striking aspects of this wine include the pure raspberry aromas and flavors, rich texture, hint of white pepper, and seamless construction.  Although it will benefit from more bottle aging, it drinks very nicely now. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Hickinbotham Vineyard 2004 ($70, Wine Brokers Unlimited): At 46 years, Hickinbotham Cabernet vines are relatively young but still offer good concentration and length. The texture is rich and layered, almost jammy.  Blackberry and spice notes are standouts, supported by big tannins and a very long, nicely structured finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Syrah Bakers Gully Vineyard 2004 ($65, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Bakers Gully is the newest entry to the expanding list of Clarendon Hills Syrahs. This concentrated wine shows ripe blackberries, smoky notes and firm tannins, with great structure and a spicy complex finish. This is not your father's typical Aussie Shiraz.  It will improve with a few years of bottle aging. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache Romas Vineyard NV ($100, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Bratasiuk considers Romas his flagship Grenache and it is very good in a dense, concentrated way.  The complex flavors are bright with hints of dark berries, licorice and subtle rose petals.  While showing old-vine concentration, Romas still has finesse and a surprising delicacy in the finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Merlot Brookman Vineyard NV ($60, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Bratasiuk used only 40% new French oak to age this Merlot, allowing the primary fruit to show through.  The flavors are herbal-leafy with hints of roasted coffee in the background.  Underlying dark berry notes with an earthy note complete this stylish Merlot. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Syrah Piggott Range Vineyard 2004 ($150, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Piggott Range is a dense, luscious Syrah, layered with ripe berry, mint and an earthy-mineral nuance. The finish is long and elegant, with rich fruit and excellent structure. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Syrah Astralis Vineyard 2004 ($325, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Astralis comes from a small lot in Blewitt Springs and is the flagship Syrah for Clarendon Hills.  There's a lot going on in this intense wine: blackberry, plum, anise, mint, mocha, black pepper.  It's concentrated and powerful, yet shows admirable finesse through the finish.  Astralis deserves its place in the pantheon of great Australian Syrah (Shiraz), but the astronomical price makes it all but unreachable for the average punter. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache The Derelict Vineyard 2009 ($29, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite its punch of ripe wild strawberry notes, this is a mid-weight wine with a charming rusticity. It grows in the glass with smokey spicy elements appearing after the fruit notes. The more you sip it, the more you like it. It’s not tiring and certainly not boring. With plenty of energy, it sparkles with flavor, making it a good choice for grilled meats or spicy pasta dishes.
90 Michael Apstein May 7, 2013

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz “The Stump Jump” 2011 ($13, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite my lack of enthusiasm for the cutesy names the Australians attach to their wines, there is no overlooking the quality and value of this wine.  It is a superb $13 Shiraz.  Surprisingly for the price, it delivers more than just fruit flavors -- there are subtle and intriguing gamey and savory notes.  Not entirely polished, it has a charming rusticity compared to d’Arenberg’s other very fine Shiraz.  Stock up on this for the cool weather ahead.  It’s just what you need as the temperature drops and the hearty stews simmer on the stove.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) “d’Arry’s Original” 2006 ($19, Old Bridge Cellars):  The fifty-fifty blend of Grenache and Shiraz displays expressive fruit character and the oak aging in both small barrels and large oak cask adds structure and seasoning.  There is a deep ruby color and aromatics of smoky oak, ripe dark fruits with subtle earthy back notes.  The flavors are richly textured, bursting with fresh ripe berries and hints of spice.  In total, this value- wine has juicy fruit, structure and length and it will only improve with more bottle time. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 20, 2010

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “The Coppermine Road” 2008 ($65, Old Bridge Cellars):  Coppermine Road is one of d’Arenberg’s best known red wines from the McLaren Vale region, south of Adelaide.  Made from low-yield vines the wine was aged for 18 months in new and used French oak barrels.  The color is a very deep ruby with a black core, slightly herbal nose combined with nicely integrated toasted oak.  The fruit is ripe and clear with hints of mocha and menthol.  Coppermine Road finishes with 14.5% alcohol, plenty of fruit and a little heat.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 27, 2012

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz "The Footbolt" 2003 ($19, Old Bridge Cellars): Originally, the name of this wine was "The Old Vine Shiraz," the first wine in the world to be labeled Old Vine according to d'Arenberg. In 1996, the Osborns changed the name to The Footbolt Shiraz in honor of a racehorse owned by the winery founder Joseph Osborn. The Footbolt is a quintessential McLaren Vale Shiraz, with big, deep, inky color, a rich nose, and concentrated bright berry flavors. While it's delicious now, this zesty Shiraz will reward those who wait an extra year or three. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache "The Derelict Vineyard" 2003 ($29, Old Bridge Cellars): In 1993 Chester Osborn needed more Grenache and he found a abandoned 30 year-old vineyard that had been used as a horse paddock. The vines were trampled and unproductive. After several years of rejuvenating the vineyard, the dry-grown Derelict Vineyard produces exceptional low yield Grenache. This is a tightly-knit wine with big, expressive raspberry aromas and flavors, big tannins, and a long concentrated finish. Definitely, there is nothing derelict about this wine. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

De Lisio Wines, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) "Quarterback" 2004 ($24, Epicurean Wines): This is a thick, concentrated blend of 29% Shiraz, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 21% Grenache. It raises at least two questions: First, how did an Australian producer beat Americans to the proprietary name of "Quarterback?" (If you think the answer is that the name refers to "Aussie Rules Footie," guess again, as the back label bears an illustration with a figure wearing an American-style helmet and padding.) Second, given the character of the wine, why wasn't it called "Nose Tackle?" I do not claim to have answers for these questions, but I do have a recommendation, which is that you sip this along with some really robust food as you ponder them. It is packed with ultra-ripe fruit that checks in with 15.3% alcohol but no overt heat. The flavors of red and black fruits are exceedingly deep and sweet, with flashy accent notes of mint and spicy oak. This might be a great choice for a really rich, spicy lamb stew--but just about nothing else except hard chesses or maybe wolverine. Neither subtle nor nimble, this is a bruiser, but I couldn't help being impressed! 90 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2006

Longwood, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “The Shearer” 2006 ($18, Southern Starz): McLaren Vale Shiraz is famously ripe, intense stuff, and this wine shows plenty of muscle to live up to the stereotype.  However, it is not overwhelming in weight or alcohol, and is admirably restrained in character, with fruit notes of dark cherry, ripe plum and red berries that show no raisining or over-ripeness.  Moreover, oak influence is so restrained as to be negligible, permitting the fruit to shine through from the first whiff to the end of the pure, persistent finish.  90 Michael Franz Dec 30, 2008

Razor’s Edge, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz 2008 ($12, American Wine Distributors):  An indisputably delicious wine and a remarkable bargain, this features big but balanced notes of dark cherries and berries along with a red raspberry backnote.  There’s also a bit of spicy oak and a peppery bite in the finish, and all of these elements work very well together.  And if all of that were not hard enough to believe, the Shiraz – Grenache from Razor’s Edge is perhaps even better. 90 Michael Franz Jan 18, 2011

Rosemount, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Show Reserve” 2005 ($21, FWE Imports): As pretty as a perfect garnet, as aromatic as the finest perfume, as rich as satin, this deeply satisfying Shiraz further tantalizes with its suppleness and opulent tannins. 90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 30, 2007

Slipstream, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Grenache 2005 ($18, Epicurean Wines): There are serious wines, and fun wines, and not a lot that are both.  This is one.  Dark and serious looking but also fruity and soft, it features a delicious combination of dark fruit notes drawn from Shiraz and red cherry notes from Grenache that work beautifully together. 90 Michael Franz Feb 13, 2007

The Black Chook, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) “VMR” 2006 ($18, Epicurean Wines): A blend of Viognier (68%), Marsanne (16%) and Rousanne (16%), this is a luscious, perfumy white wine, very Rhônish in style.  For all its intense aromatic intensity, there's nothing sappy or cloying about the wine, which finishes on a clean, vibrant note. 90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 4, 2007

The Black Chook, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Viognier 2006 ($18, Epicurean Wines): Winemaker Ben Riggs co-ferments a small amount of Viognier skins with the Shiraz to achieve a heady aroma dominated by ripe stone fruits.  The bold aromas lead into a deep red wine with rich, harmonious flavors and luxuriant texture. 90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 4, 2007

The Lucky Country, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2010 ($40, Terlato Wines International):  From Michael Twelftree, the winemaker at Two Hands, comes a wine that provides what you want in this price range:  Black cherry fruit, good acidity, some savory and black pepper notes.  The wood is a little strong at first opening but eases back into balance with some time in the glass.  14.5% alcohol. 90 W. Blake Gray Apr 10, 2012

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Brookman Vineyard NV ($65, Wine Brokers Unlimited): All new French oak was used to moderate the old-vine character of this Cabernet Sauvignon. The flavors offer blackberries, spicy French oak, a touch of herbs and very good length, while the wine finishes with a hint of eucalyptus. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Sandown Vineyard 2004 ($65, Wine Brokers Unlimited): This is a tightly structured Cabernet, aged in 100% new French oak.  The color is deep and inky, while the flavors are loaded with bright berries, dark chocolate and anise.  Sandown is crisp and nicely balanced and will age for 10-15 years. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Syrah Moritz Vineyard 2004 ($78, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Moritz comes from younger vines, mainly 31 years of age, but the wine is dense and deeply flavored, though closed in.  The flavors are rich with ripe plums and anise notes, while the tannins are smooth and refined. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

Clarendon Hills, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache Blewitt Springs Vineyard 2004 ($70, Wine Brokers Unlimited): This is a huge wine with depth and texture in the plum and black cherry flavors, supported by rich, refined tannins.  For my taste, Blewitt Springs is an acquired taste that is best enjoyed with a piece of cheese. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 2, 2007

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvedre "The Ironstone Pressings” 2006 ($65, Old Bridge Cellars): On the lower side of the d'Arenberg winery in McLaren Vale, the Ironstone Pressing vineyard soil is rich in iron, giving this 'GSM' blend greater body and tannin structure.  Grenache dominates at 70%, with 25% Shiraz and Mourvedre making up the remaining 5% of the blend.  McLaren Vale is known for its fruit-forward Shiraz and Rhône-style blends and this Ironstone Pressings doesn't disappoint.  The nose is a bit closed in, but showing ample raspberry and floral notes over subtle oak.  Ample flavors, refined tannins and a long intense finish at 15% alcohol, result in a well balanced blend with a little heat. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 4, 2008

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache “The Custodian” 2006 ($19, Old Bridge Cellars): I always open half a dozen red wines to throw onto the table for Thanksgiving dinner, and this was the winner in 2008.  It shows delightfully fresh fruit notes that are pure and lifted, but also some of the density and depth that Grenache can attain when sourced from older vines in a warm climate.  Notes of red cherries retain the forefront, but there's also a hint of spices and damp earth around the edges of this wine, as it is just starting to develop some secondary aromas to augment the lovely core of primary fruit. 89 Michael Franz Dec 2, 2008

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre "The Stump Jump" 2004 ($10, Old Bridge Cellars): This is another bottling in the newly-released Stump Jump range of wines, one that plays off the popular GSM Rhône-style red blend favored by Australian winemakers. The beauty of this wine, (besides the price) is the brilliant ruby color and flavorsome mouthful of strawberries. It's fleshy and juicy, ripe and inviting with good balancing acidity and firm tannins. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

Penny’s Hill, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($33, Epicurean Wines): This delivers most of what you'd hope for in a McLaren Vale Shiraz, and also very little of what you'd fear from one.  You'd hope for a dark, concentrated, juicy blast of berries, and you'll get that from this in spades.  And though you might fear an overly over-ripe, raisiny fruit profile, it is not here, nor is the heavy-handed whack of oak that you might anticipate.  Symmetrical and, given the context, almost stylish, this is a hell of a lot of fun but not a wine without some seriousness.  An impressive effort. 89 Michael Franz Jan 16, 2007

Rosemount, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Show Reserve GSM 2005 ($25, Foster's Wine Estates):

To the best of my knowledge Rosemount was the first, or at least one of the first, Aussie producers to work with the GSM -- Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre -- designation. It's been a huge hit over the years as a showcase for the Grenache grape, which thrives in the McLaren Vale district of South Australia. The dominant characteristic of this wine is the intense red and black berry fruit character, overlaid with notes of spice and woodsmoke. It's rich (14.5 percent alcohol) and suave and a certain crowd-pleaser within its price range.

Five Geese, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache/Shiraz 2004 ($24, Boutique International): This delicious blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Shiraz from Hillgrove Wines has everything going for it except for its rather unattractively high price. Nevertheless, with the Grenache sourced from 70 year-old, dry grown vines, there is perhaps a sufficiently high production cost to excuse the price, and theres no faulting the wine on concentration or styling. Intense fruit notes of dried cherries and dark berries are truly lovely both aromatically and in terms of flavor, and minimal wood is a blessing in light of the pure and thoroughly pleasing fruit notes. 88 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Fox Creek, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Grenache 2004 ($20, Vineyard Brands): This blend of 2/3rds Shiraz and 1/3 Grenache is big and bold, but there's surprising elegance in this 14.5% alcohol wine. Not for the faint of heart, it would be a good choice for a hearty winter casserole. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006

Hugh Hamilton, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Syrah “Jim Jim” 2005 ($10, Country Vintner): Out for a Middle Eastern themed dinner with a group of women friends the other night, we ordered a bottle of Jim Jim Shiraz.  An undemanding wine full of big, juicy fruit flavors, it was a surprisingly friendly accompaniment to all the disparate dishes at our table--the roast lamb, the falafel, the spicy chicken, the eggplant. My friend Deb described it best when, gazing at the dark, dense, purple liquid in her glass, she said happily, 'I really love a wine you can't see through!' 88 Marguerite Thomas May 8, 2007

Rosemount, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz "Show Reserve" 2004 ($21, FWE Imports): Big and jammy and totally 'in-your-face,' this is a wild ride that will prove very popular among lovers of very ripe fruit.  Dark and dense and very deeply flavored, its saving grace is that the fruit maintains purity without quite turning pruny or over-ripe.  Black raspberry is the lead fruit note, and a bit of pepper and toasty wood augmenting the finish. 88 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2008

Tapestry, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Baker Gully Vineyard 2005 ($12, Scott Street Portfolio): A subtle peppery component in this wine acts as an attractive counterpoint to the very ripe, plumy flavors characteristic of Aussie Shiraz.  Another plus is an appealing freshness in the finish that balances the fruity ripeness. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007

Mitolo, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “The Jester” 2006 ($20): This wine is far juicier than is the norm for Cabernet, with a very prominent impression of sweetness.  Although it is quite unusual in the context of the grape variety, it is irresistible if tasted with an open mind and palate.  Notes of very ripe black cherries and cassis are fresh and appealing, and there's enough tannin in the finish to keep the wine from seeming candied. 87 Michael Franz Mar 25, 2008

Tir Na N’Og, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache Old Vines 2006 ($32, Australian Premium Wine Collection): The tongue twisting name--'land of youth' in the aboriginal language--should not prevent you for buying this wine.  Not for the faint of heart, this wine's ripe strawberry-like fruit flavor and its heady effect make a paradoxical combination that actually works with robust wintertime fare.  A pleasant spice-like kick seems perfectly in keeping with the wine's overall high-toned styled. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 27, 2009

Dead Letter Office, McLaren Vale/Padthaway (Australia) Shiraz 2007 ($27, Quintessential Wines):

Offering bright plum and cherry fruit flavors enhanced by peppery spice, this is a lively Shiraz with excellent balance and just enough secondary character to merit a 90-point rating. Its vivacious fruit character definitely proves attractive, but the intriguing spicy notes are what give it distinction in what after all is a very crowded field of competitors.

Henry's Drive, Padthaway (South Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2005 ($55, Quintessential): Despite its power and weight, this reserve Shiraz from Henry's Drive is pure silk in the mouth. It shows juicy red fruits with a pleasing hint of eucalyptus and spice, richness and density, sweet tannins and a lingering finish that doesn't have the heat you would expect from a wine with 15.7 percent alcohol. Well done for those who enjoy this ripe, rich, powerful style of Shiraz. 92 Robert Whitley Sep 9, 2008

Henry's Drive Vignerons, Padthaway (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Pillar Box" 2012 ($22, Quintessential Wines): Yes, they make more than just Shiraz in Australia, and I've tasted some good Cabernet from down under of late.  This one shows rich mixed berry, a nice blend of dried herb, cedar spice and dry baker's chocolate in aroma and flavor, with medium body and a long finish that maintains its complexity thanks to very bright acidity.  It's not often that Cabernet is described as mouth-watering, but this one got my juices flowing.  Lamb lollipops with simple spice will be elevated when paired with the Pillar Box -- that's Aussie for a 19th century mail box.
91 Rich Cook Jan 6, 2015

Greg Norman Estates, Padthaway (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2000 ($50): To modify a stock phrase, you can't swing a dead kangaroo these days without hitting yet another new Greg Norman wine, as the guy's name is being milked for all it is worth--maybe more. In any case, this is a pretty remarkable wine, as it is so dense and so flavorful that it could prove deadly to small children or adults with compromised immune systems. Seriously concentrated and intense, it is also formidably fortified with oak. We need not trouble ourselves with considering particular fruit notes or accenting nuances you might find in it, as this wine has no intention of sitting still for you to study it. It wants to get you into a headlock, and without even knowing you, I like its chances better than yours. It doesn't conform to anyone's notion of sophistication or gentility, but those looking for a wild ride won't be disappointed. 90 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2005

Henry's Drive, Padthaway (South Australia) Shiraz 2006 ($36, Quintessential): This is a truly beautiful, minty, smooth Shiraz that has loads of crowd appeal to go along with all of its spicy ripe red-fruited flavor. The tannins are supple and sweet, and the wine shows exceptional length in the mouth, though it does finish slightly hot, for which I've deducted a few points. 90 Robert Whitley Sep 9, 2008

Henry's Drive, Padthaway (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($37, Quintessential): Quite good for an Aussie Cabernet, and more well balanced than this winery's super-ripe Shiraz. Lovely red fruits dominate the front of the palate, and there is a note of mint and dried herbs that's less pronounced than it is in the Henry's Shiraz. Tannins are firm but nicely integrated and the wood is well measured. 90 Robert Whitley Sep 9, 2008

Pillar Box, Padthaway (South Australia) Reserve 2006 ($20, Quintessential): Thick, rich and earthy, this is a style that is most readily identified with Aussie Shiraz. It's layered and deep, with loads of spice, a hint of mocha and no small dose of power. If you like this up-front, rich style you'll love this wine at this relatively modest price. 88 Robert Whitley Sep 9, 2008

Pillar Box, Padthaway (South Australia) "Red" 2006 ($11, Quintessential): A juicy Cabernet-Merlot blend that's ripe and round and -- big, with 15 percent alcohol. It shows an earthy, tarry nuance that is quite attractive and rich dark fruits. Not as balanced as I would like, but a style that is popular. And the price is quite decent given the quality. 86 Robert Whitley Sep 9, 2008

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz "Grange, Bin 95" 2002 ($240, Fosters Wine Estates): Despite the daunting price, I manage to scrape together enough courage to purchase a couple of bottles of Grange with every new vintage. I remind myself that Grange is one of Australia's greatest treasures. If you use the term Shiraz at all, as opposed to the more universally accepted Syrah, then you must remember you do so only because Grange has opened doors for Shiraz the world over. It is a perennially great red wine, horded by wine collectors in both hemispheres, and the '02 vintage is a stunner. It is still a baby by Grange standards and remains a bit shy on the nose. On the palate, however, the potential is unmasked. This is a sleek, supple wine, with refined tannins that contribute elegance and texture. The flavors and aromas unfold in complex layers, at first revealing notes of chocolate, coffee and leather; then dark fruits, anise and spice. This dense, brooding, powerful Grange most likely won't reach its peak for another dozen years or so, if then. 97 Robert Whitley Sep 18, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 707” 2004 ($88, Foster's Wine Estates): Penfolds' Bin 707, their best Cabernet, excels in 2004.  The fruit comes from vineyards in Coonawarra and Barossa, including their famed Block 42, home to the world's oldest Cabernet vines.  According to Peter Gago, Penfolds' head winemaker, the Barossa provides particularly attractive Cabernet in cooler years like 2004.  It's fabulously packed, yet balanced and elegant.  The ripe, cassis-like fruit doesn't swamp the minerality.  The flavors are seamless. You'd hardly guess it was aged in 100% new American oak.  It's remarkably forward and engaging now, but the fine tannins will support decades of aging.  And all this with an alcohol of only 13.5%. 97 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) “Grange” 2002 ($250): The release of Penfolds' Grange each year on May 1st, after 5 years of aging, is a much anticipated event in Australia.  Peter Gago, the winemaker responsible for Grange, says the 2002 is like the 1990 and 1996, 'it's all about poise and balance.'  I would add it's also about power tempered by elegance and grace.  It's exceptionally concentrated, but unlike so many powerful Australian reds, it's not over the top.  Sweet, lush fruit peeks out from the tannins and spicy American oak to show itself in the extraordinary finish.  The flavors persist seemingly forever.  Though expressive now with air, don't think about drinking it for at least another decade. 96 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) "Grandfather Rare Tawny NV ($93, Treasury Wine Estates):  Penfolds Grandfather Rare Tawny is a lively and complex tawny.  Aromas of dried apricots and peaches, potpourri, caramel, and orange peel all sing in the glass.  The flavors layer on additional notes recalling walnuts and toffee.  Bright acidity and a lingering finish come together to make this a beautifully balanced fortified wine.     
96 John McDermott Oct 3, 2023

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2018 ($123, Treasury Wine Estates):  Penfolds has a stated winemaking philosophy of multi-vineyard, multi-regional sourcing.  The grapes for this wine come from different areas of South Australia including Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, and Coonawarra.  It is a powerful yet elegant wine with rich flavors of blackberry, plum, raspberry, and black currant layered with black pepper and dried woody herbs.  The flavors are balanced with bright acidity and smooth as silk tannins.  Looking at my notes when I tasted the wine, I saw WOW.  There’s a reason some folks call this wine “baby Grange,” Australia's most collectible wine from Penfold’s.       
95 Rebecca Murphy May 24, 2022

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet - Shiraz “Bin 389” 2014 ($69, TWE Imports): I’ve tasted almost every vintage of this wine for the past 20 years, so I’ve got plenty of context for what follows.  Naturally, I didn’t taste the wines side-by-side, so I can’t say that this is the best Bin 389 ever released by Penfolds, but I can certainly say that I can’t remember a better one.  That’s important because this wine’s price has increased appreciably in recent years, whereas it was once priced fairly closely to the Bin 28 and Bin 128 bottlings of Shiraz (now at $30).  Accordingly, if you were returning to this after an interim of some years, you’d expect a lot more for you money.  And in the case of this 2014, you’d get it.  Bin 389 has long been called Penfolds’ “Baby Grange.”  Although I’m not sure that winemaker Peter Gago is particularly fond of that coinage (since Grange is absolutely, positively unique…as anyone who has tasted the wine from any vintage will tell you), the 2014 Bin 389 really measures up to the “second wines” of Bordeaux’s First Growth Chateaux.  Moreover, based on the fact that the current low price for the 2010 vintage of Carrauades de Lafite is $200, there’s little question that Penfolds is outperforming the “Super Seconds” with regard to value.  This is very darkly pigmented and equally impressively concentrated, with extremely deep flavors.  However, what is most impressive is that the wine is already amazingly well integrated, with perfectly proportioned, dark-toned fruit that has already absorbed almost all the overt oak notes and easily counterbalances the serious (but not coarse or astringent) tannins.  Accents of cocoa powder and light toast add interesting complexity, and the wine’s freshness is uncanny for its weight.  In sum, this is absolutely terrific.
95 Michael Franz Feb 14, 2017

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) “Grange” 1999 ($275, Foster’s Wine Estates): If what you truly desire is a big, rich, voluptuous red with plenty of power, Grange is your wine.  Australia's most renowned wine, made from about 98% Shiraz (Syrah), it is redolent of black fruits, earth, and currants.  It has a fantastically long finish; you can still taste it for several minutes after swallowing.  The 1999 Grange is currently available in restaurants, but these wines age forever, and so don't hesitate to order an older vintage, if available.  Try it with steak or grilled meats. 95 Ed McCarthy Feb 5, 2008

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 707” 2005 ($140, FWE Imports):

A terrific rendition of one of Australia’s most legendary wines, this is very dense and deeply flavored, with very expressive aromas and terrific flavor impact.  Blackberry and blackcurrant fruit notes are intense and vivid, with backnotes of eucalyptus, dried herbs, cedar, carpaccio, and lots of subtle smoke and spice accents from wood around the edges.  Very meaty and dense, but without any textural roughness, this is clearly comprised of exceptional raw material that was then very deftly crafted into a wine that can be enjoyed now or left to develop for another two decades.

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz "St. Henri" 2011 ($99): This wine’s escalating price seems an indication that other people love St. Henri as much as I do.  There doesn’t ever seem to be a disappointing vintage of this remarkable, and remarkably pleasing, Shiraz, and certainly the 2011 is as deeply satisfying as ever.  Rich and densely textured, the beautiful fruit shines through without the distraction of new oak (St. Henri is matured in huge, old vats that impart just enough oak to add subtle complexity and texture minus the attention-grabbing harshness new oak often brings to a young red wine).  With its measure of spiciness, gentle nip of tannins, and mellow finish it’s hard to find a fault with St. Henri.
94 Marguerite Thomas Nov 4, 2014

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz “Kalimna Bin 28” 2012 ($30, Treasury): It is inevitable that justice will ultimately prevail and that the Australian wine industry will come roaring back to its proper place near the top of the wine world, in the wake of the Yellow Tail debacle that has saddled the country’s wines with a reputation for cheapness.  And this is just the sort of wine to lead the charge.  Although reasonably affordable, it displays quality that can only be described as ultra-premium, with utterly convincing berry fruit that shows both red and black tones.  The bracing from rounded tannins and subtle wood provide definition without the slightest harshness.  Place a glass of this wine before any open-minded taster with a spicy Moroccan beef stew and you’ll have a convert on your hands.  Nobody could fail to love this wine.
93 Michael Franz Nov 24, 2015

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz - Mataro "Bin 2" 2014 ($24, TWE Imports):  This wine from Penfolds -- a genuinely great producer and a standard-bearer for all of Australian wine -- falls somewhere in the middle of a range of releases that stretches from very affordable wines to the legendary "Grange," which is definitely in the league of "First-Growth" Bordeaux any of the world's greatest and most age-worthy wines.  Why this preamble to reviewing the 2014 "Bin 2"?  Because this could easily be overlooked by those glancing higher or lower in the range, which would be very unfortunate.  Blended from 82% Shiraz and 18% Mataro (a.k.a. Mourvèdre in France and Monastrell in Spain), this is a thrill ride in a bottle.  Very deeply pigmented, highly aromatic, seriously concentrated and deeply flavorful, it really has the impact of a $75 wine for 1/3 the price.  Yet, that's only half the story, as this is no mere fruit bomb.  On the contrary, it is beautifully balance with lots of fresh acidity, and savory, meaty undertones make this as "interesting" as it is "impressive."  Like most Penfolds wines, it benefits hugely from aeration, and really shows twice the dimension after a couple of hours than immediately after opening.
93 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2017

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet/Shiraz “Bin 389” 2004 ($28, PWG Vintners): Few nicknames could be tougher for a relatively affordable wine to live up to than 'Baby Grange,' but this wine measures up to its moniker in almost every vintage.  With extremely serious concentration and but also real suppleness and complexity, it shows excellent fruit recalling blackberries and black cherries, with a plum note and notable accents of toast and spices.  Saved in an open bottle for a second look after 24 hours, I found this had only improved, suggesting that it is a great bet for further development over the next five years--at least. 92 Michael Franz Apr 24, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz “St. Henri 2006 ($65, FWE Imports): One of the reasons Penfolds is a great producer is that it turns out a wide spectrum of distinctive wines even within a single varietal. The St. Henri Shiraz is, as they call it, a counterpoint to Grange. It’s a multi area blend of mostly Shiraz, (89%) with Cabernet Sauvignon, which adds backbone. What makes it unique, and unlike Grange (in addition to its release price) is the absence of new oak aging. Instead it’s aged in old (40 or 50 year) large (1,000+ liter) vats. Savory notes marry beautifully ripe and plumy fruit flavors. Firm tannins are evident at this stage in this balanced and polished wine, which makes it a good candidate for the cellar. (The 2005 St. Henri is still available in some retail markets and is far more advanced than expected for a wine that’s only a year older. If you see, grab it.) 92 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet – Shiraz “Bin 389” 2008 ($36, FWE Imports):  The Penfolds Bin Series wines typically offer excellent quality and value, and this wine is pretty clearly the flagship bottling of the series.  Long known informally as “Baby Grange,” it could hardly have a more difficult title to live up to, and yet it almost always manages to do so.  The 2008 rendition is especially impressive (I’m not sure that I can remember a better one), offering excellent concentration and depth of flavor backed by serious structure, yet the wine is already thoroughly enjoyable if given some air and paired with food.  The wood is restrained and the tannins are quite ripe and fine in grain, but decanting is still strongly recommended as aeration makes this wine notably more expressive and also helps deal with a fairly heavy sediment that it is already throwing.  Complex and complete, this is a terrific accomplishment by Penfolds’ chief winemaker Peter Gago and his team. 92 Michael Franz Sep 20, 2011

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/ Shiraz “Bin 389” 2007 ($36, FWE Imports):  Sometimes called “Baby Grange” because, like that legendary wine, it was created by the legendary Penfolds winemaker Max Schubert, this wine actually has an identity (and a history, the first vintages coming in the 1960s) all its own.  Firmly-structured due to the high percentage of Cabernet in the blend, it exhibits a zesty, spicy personality, with dark fruit flavors that finish both deep and long.  The price has gone up over the years, but the wine still offers good value, as past vintages have rewarded extended cellaring.  This 2007 extends a very successful run of classy, compelling “389s.” 92 Paul Lukacs Feb 8, 2011

Pikes, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Mourvedre Grenache "SMG, The Assemblage" 2003 ($21, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): This is what Australia does best -- sensational boutique red wine without a hefty price tag. Pikes' '03 SMG is ripe without being jammy, spicy, earthy, layered and "sweet" without being sweet, meaning it's dry despite its sweet, voluptuous red and black fruit aromas and flavors. The Grenache component  (17 percent) no doubt accounts for that. In the past this blend has been SGM, but Mourvedre made up a greater part of the blend in the '03 vintage. 92 Robert Whitley Nov 28, 2006

Lindemans, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002 ($10): Reserve 2002 ($10): A big step above their Bin 50 Southeastern Australian Shiraz, the Reserve bottling, drawn exclusively from sources in South Australia, is a great buy. Its gamey, earthy complexity is an unexpected surprise for a wine at this price. Dont miss it. 91 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 407” 2007 ($33, FWE Imports):  A serious Cabernet, with impressive depth of flavor, this wine successfully avoids the twin pitfalls that trip up so many renditions of the varietal these days--excessive extract and overt sweetness.  Legitimately dry, with excellent harmony (from sufficient balancing acidity), the wine tastes of black fruit, with intriguing echoes of mint and cocoa in the finish.  Oak plays an appropriately supporting role, and the tannins, while firm, near seem too forceful.  The plethora of Penfolds’ bin numbers can get confusing, but savvy consumers would do well to remember “407” in this vintage. 91 Paul Lukacs Jun 22, 2010

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet – Shiraz 2006 ($37, FWE Imports): Savvy buyers have been laying away bottles of this wonderful wine from Penfolds for 40 years, knowing that this 'Baby Grange' can not only last but actually improve for two decades or more, eventually becoming the equal of wines costing several times the asking price for new releases of Bin 389.  A blend of 52% Cab and 48% Shiraz, the wine is aged in large American oak casks for 12 months.  It shows dark, concentrated fruit recalling blackberries and black cherries, along with accents of spice and woodsmoke.  Decant this and enjoy with a grilled steak now, or lay it down for your grandchildren. 91 Michael Franz May 26, 2009

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz / Cabernet “Max's” 2015 ($25, TWE Imports): This is a release from a new tribute line in a clever double package with homage paid to Max Schubert, who put the winery on the international stage with Grange.  Current winemaker Peter Gago lets us all in on the honor by keeping the price low and delivering solid Aussie character, with bright black and blue fruit, signature mint and subtle savory notes.  The mid-palate shows richness without sweetness, and a supple structure extends the well-integrated finish.  It'll certainly jump off the shelf at you -- make sure you peel the top layer off to get the story on the "inside" label.
91 Rich Cook Aug 22, 2017

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Max's" 2015 ($25, TWE Imports):  Always innovative, Penfolds offers us here an eye-catching, cleverly packaged bottle.  Unzip the scarlet shrink-wrapped outer coat to reveal the traditional bottle inside, then uncork that bottle, pour yourself a glass of this fine Cabernet and savor its dense flavors of mixed dark berries highlighted by a flicker of mint, a touch of vanilla, and a minimalist layer of oak.  Luscious ripe tannins and a generous finish are part of the overall pleasure.  This wine was made by the illustrious Peter Gago to honor another renowned Penfolds winemaker, Max Schubert, who introduced the world to the estate’s Grange Hermitage in 1951.  
91 Marguerite Thomas May 22, 2018

Yalumba, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Organic 2010 ($16, Negociants USA):  I can’t say whether the organic growing of the grapes for this wine is why it tastes so good, or whether a broader conscientiousness at Yalumba is simply reflected in the organic growing practices--but it is a bloody good wine.  Ripe and rich but not grapey or gooey, it really delivers the expressive flavors that would make you choose a Shiraz in the first place, but then backs them up with a level of character and class that’s generally only available in more expensive wines.  Thanks to its excellent balance, this will prove very versatile at the table, but grilled lamb would be just about perfect. 91 Michael Franz Sep 13, 2011

Brokenwood, South Australia (Australia) “Cricket Pitch” 2007 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz, sourced from vineyards in Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, and Langhorne Creek is packed full of ripe fruit flavor and dark chocolate undertones.  Though big and powerful, it does not seem at all hot or heavy, and so will provide very satisfying sipping--particularly if paired with full-flavored fare.  It would be a fine choice of steakhouses and other restaurants to pour by the glass. 90 Paul Lukacs Jun 22, 2010

Hardys, South Australia (Australia) Sparkling Shiraz NV ($19, International Cellars, Pacific Wine Partners): Sparkling Shiraz has become an iconic Aussie tipple and this is a good-value one. The richly-textured purple-ruby color is inviting as is the perfumed berry and ripe black plum aromas. It has luscious sweet fruit flavors and is nicely balanced with good acidity and firm refined tannins. My wife and I enjoyed it with pizza, but the grilling season is not far off, so try it with grilled chicken or turkey. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 7, 2006

Jacob's Creek, South Australia (Australia) Chardonnay Reserve 2004 ($13, Pernod Ricard USA): Brilliant light-medium gold color that leads to a layered nose of stone fruit, cashew and hints of vanilla. The flavors are creamy with bright citrus and pear notes. It finishes with length and complexity. This is a good value with some of the bells and whistles of a more expensive Chardonnay. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 18, 2006

Joseph, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot "Moda" 2002 ($48, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Taking a cue from producers of Amarone (Moda refers to Moda Amarone), Joe Grilli, winemaker at Joseph, dries a small proportion of the grapes on straw mats before fermentation to add complexity to the finished wine. You might think this would be the last technique to use in warm Australia, but you'd be wrong. This intense wine shows enticing chocolate or cocoa nuances, and hints of raisins, without losing its balance. The 2000 Moda-sampled at the same tasting-had developed even greater complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006

Paringa, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($10, Quintessential):  Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia’s Riverland district, this is a good example of what Australian winemaking can do for $10, without being over-ripe and carrying too much alcohol.  A very deep ruby color gives way to dark fruit aromas, forward cherry-berry and mocha flavors, rich texture, 14% alcohol and a long fruity finish with subtle oak notes.  A very nice value! 90 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 7, 2010

Paringa, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2008 ($10, Quintessential):  Love it or hate it, Aussie Shiraz is a wine that shouldn’t be ignored.  This Paringa Shiraz is made from Riverland fruit, not exactly one of the premier regions in Australia for growing Shiraz.  But the color is an attractive deep black-ruby and the aromatics offer blackberry, mocha and traces of pepper.  It is intense and rich, with layered sweet fruit flavors, refined tannins, 14.5% alcohol and a long concentrated finish.  This is a very good value Shiraz, but not for the faint of heart! 90 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 7, 2010

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz/Mourvèdre “Bin 2” 2009 ($15, FWE Imports):  It’s incredible that Penfolds, with its vast line-up of wines from its flagship Grange at $400 a bottle to ones like this, rarely gets it wrong.  This polished blend marries fruity plumy notes with savory gamy ones.  It is supple, yet not soft.  It has plenty of stuffing without being overdone, which makes it a good choice for the grilling season. 90 Michael Apstein May 17, 2011

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz “Bin 28 Kalima” 2004 ($23, PWG Vintners): Softer, richer, riper, and more supple than the Bin 128 Shiraz, this Bin 28 bottling is a real charmer.  Nevertheless, there's real depth of flavor and lots of ripe tannin to enable this to work with robust foods or develop additional complexities with another five years of ageing. 90 Michael Franz Apr 24, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Max's 2015 ($25): This wine tribute to Max Schubert is Shiraz dominant and it shows in the intense blueberry aroma on the front of the palate. Darker fruits such as blackberry emerge mid-palate and the finish shows a touch of attractive wood spice. Well balanced and inviting, this is a red that can be enjoyed now or savored and cellared easily for another six to ten years.
90 Robert Whitley Aug 15, 2017

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz “Kalimna Bin 28” 2006 ($26, FWE Imports): Sure, this wine tastes big and rich, with forward, in-your-face flavors.  But it’s also quite sophisticated and suave because it is so well-balanced and harmonious.  Past vintages have aged well, and I would think that a few years of cellaring would be advisable.  The wine is delicious now, but it promises to be even better when its exuberance calms down just a bit. 90 Paul Lukacs Jul 21, 2009

Penolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 407” 2008 ($33, FWE Imports):  A forceful but not over-the-top Cabernet, with the varietal’s tell-tale cassis fruit flavor, secondary notes that echo dark chocolate and sweet vanilla, firm but polished tannins, and a long, evolving finish.  The wine shows plenty of warmth, but is neither hot nor heavy on the palate, so exhibits fine balance, albeit in a vibrant Aussie style. 90 Paul Lukacs Jan 24, 2012

Stonehaven Vineyards, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Winemaker's Selection" 2003 ($10, Excelsior Wine & Spirits): French and American oak were used to age this earthy Cabernet Sauvignon.  The color is very deep black-ruby, while the nose shows ripe berries and traces of tobacco leaf.  A surprising soft entry is followed by good fruit, firm tannins, tobacco and berry notes and a medium finish.  90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 7, 2006

The Prisoner Wine Company, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Saldo” 2021 ($34):  The Prisoner Wine Co. brings this exciting Shiraz to you from Australia.  Chrissy Wittman, The Prisoner Wine Company’s director of winemaking, travels back and forth to help produce this juicy Australian powerhouse under Prisoner’s “Saldo" label.  The 90% Shiraz and 10% Cabernet are sourced from Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, and Limestone Coast regions — in keeping with Prisoner’s practice of blending multiple regions.  The wine itself is both jammy and fresh with red, black, and blue notes.  A really nice hint of eucalyptus ties the whole thing together.  If you are a fan of big wines, you should definitely jump at this one if you find it.           
90 Vince Simmon Nov 1, 2022

Unico Zelo, South Australia (Australia) “Truffle Hound” 2021 ($30, Epicurean Wines):  Unico Zelo places themselves in the “New Australia” camp of winemakers, using new-to-Australia varieties, sustainable practices, natural yeast, and vegan friendly wines.  Their adventure led them to create Truffle Hound, a nod to Piedmont.  The blend is 40% Barbera, 28% Sangiovese, 22% Nebbiolo, 10% Merlot.  Thyme and rosemary notes compliment the fresh and stewed red fruit.  The personality of the wine is light and fresh but its savory complexity gives the wine a spunky personality. Continuing to step outside of the traditional box, Unico Zelo recommends serving this wine chilled — a recommendation I agree with and one that makes this an excellent summer wine choice.  Pair this wine with cheese, charcuterie, and sunshine.         
90 Vince Simmon Jun 20, 2023

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz "Yellow Label" 2006 ($13, Foster's Wine Estates Americas): This supple and fruity Shiraz was made from grapes drawn from a range of parcels then fermented separately and aged in a mix of oak barrels and stainless steel.  Deep ruby in color, the nose is lifted with ripe berry and spicy oak that follow through to the rich flavors of raspberry and spice. The finish, at 13.5% alcohol, is fruity with long refined tannins.  Here is a refined Shiraz at a good price that can be enjoyed now but will improve for another three to five years. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 9, 2008

Yalumba, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz – Viognier “Y Series” 2008 ($12, Negociants, USA):  Generously flavored and yet quite classy, this shows aromatic delicacy and exceptionally soft texture, with 8% Viognier likely playing a role in those characteristics.  Minimally oaked, this is all about ripe, juicy fruit, with just enough tannin to structure the ripe flavors of black and red raspberries.  This would be wicked good with spicy lamb. 90 Michael Franz Jan 18, 2011

Kilikanoon, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Killerman’s Run” 2008 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  Killerman was a legendary Claire Valley squatter who planted vines in a plot adjacent to Kilikanoon.  This blend of grapes from select South Australia vineyards was aged for 20 months in new and older French oak barrels.  The color is a deep ruby with a black core, and the aromas show signs of dark chocolate and blackberry.  It has ripe choco-berrry flavors, firm tannins, good texture, 14.5% alcohol and a medium finish with no heat. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 27, 2012

Paringa, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ($11, Quintessential): The quality/price ratio makes the 2012 Paringa well worth seeking out. Rather than trumpeting its fine qualities the wine lets its gentle frutiness slowly unfold while the silky texture settles onto your tongue and caresses your senses.  Bright and lively, it’s a remarkably well-made wine for the price.
89 Marguerite Thomas Nov 12, 2013

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Bin 407" 2004 ($26, PWG Vintners): Although this wine is not yet as complex or expressive as its stablemates in Penfolds' excellent 'Bin' line, it nevertheless offers very good quality with real promise for future development.  Dark berry fruit is deeply flavored and seriously structured, with notes of cedar and smoke providing pleasant accents. 89 Michael Franz Apr 24, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz / Mourvèdre “Bin 2” 2008 ($15, FWE Imports):  There are obvious times when a big, high-energy wine such as this is called for, the most predictable occasions being whenever red meat is on the menu.  But for an Aussie Shiraz-based wine as reasonably priced as this one, Bin 2 is a remarkably versatile food wine.  Marked by grace as well as power, it is simply delicious with just about any red sauce dishes—pastas and pizzas, of course, but even something as unpredictable as tomato based crab soup.  89 Marguerite Thomas Nov 16, 2010

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz/ Mourvèdre "Bin 2" 2008 ($15, FWE Imports):  A substantial but sophisticated Down Under red blend, this wine is marked by bright red fruit flavors supported and enhanced by echoes of savory spice (especially pepper), leather, and dark chocolate.  It offers impressive depth and length, particularly given its quite reasonable price tag. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 22, 2011

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz "Bin 28 Kalimna" 2004 ($23): A blend of Shiraz from some of the warmer vineyards Penfolds operates, this wine recalling spicy plums and dark berries offers plenty to like.  Rich and satisfying, it's at the same time nicely balanced, and while drinking well now, has the stuffing to age gracefully for five, maybe even ten years, gaining nuanced complexity along the way. 89 Michael Franz Sep 4, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz/ Mourvèdre "Bin 2" 2005 ($15, FWE Imports): A mature Aussie red blend, still available in many wine shops, this wine tastes full and rich, with peppery spice enhancing its plum and berry fruit.  It's fully ready to drink now. 89 Paul Lukacs Apr 14, 2009

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Mourvedre 'Bin 2' 2004 ($15, Fosters Wine Estates): Unlike many of the inexpensive Aussie reds in this price range, the Penfolds Bin 2 would benefit from a bit of cellaring if someone had the patience. It's still behaving like a young wine, very tight and slow to express all of its charms, but the underlying complexity and structure suggest this wine will seriously improve over the next couple of years. It's loaded with mouth-filling dark-fruit aromas and spice and sports firm tannins that will take just a bit more time to resolve. 89 Robert Whitley May 2, 2006

Peter Lehmann, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Cabernet Art Series 2010 ($13, The Hess Collection): The Art Series wines from Peter Lehmann might imply a price premium, but the designation speaks to me more about value. The wines are relatively inexpensive, but have more oomph and complexity than most at the price point. The Shiraz Cab blend offers good intensity with aromas of blackberry and black cherry. It is nicely structured, with enough tannin and acid to provide a good foil for a variety of savory foods.
89 Robert Whitley Jul 3, 2012

Raw Power, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2008 ($16, Vine Street Imports):  The label doesn’t lie.  This is a big wine, full of exuberance and brawn, with plenty of concentration, extract, and yes, alcohol (the bottle lists 14.9%).  At the same time, though, it doesn’t really taste wild or raw, but instead it exhibits surprising balance and harmony.  That combination of muscle and grace is what makes it well worth buying. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 22, 2011

Stonehaven Vineyards, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz "Winemaker's Selection" 2004 ($10, Excelsior Wine & Spirits): The grapes sourced from Padthaway and Wrattonbully give this juicy Shiraz a deep inky black-ruby color.  Deeply set black fruits, vanilla and anise distinguish the nose, while the flavors are big and concentrated with full tannins, sweet fruit and spice.  More bottle time is needed to soften the bold tannins. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 7, 2006

Strong Arms, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2008 ($12, The Grateful Palate):  A juicy Shiraz, with peppery undertones and good balance, with nothing out of place, this tastes harmonious on the palate.  Many examples of Aussie Shiraz taste excessively grapey, even jammy, but this one merits kudos for maintaining focus -- and for offering fine value. 89 Paul Lukacs Aug 31, 2010

Wolf Blass, South Australia (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yellow Label” 2008 ($13, FWE Imports):  An impressive Cabernet, with deep, cassis-like flavors, evident but not obtrusive oak flavor, and a long finish.  The wine’s initial impression is slightly simple and sweet, but as it lingers on the palate it becomes more substantial, something that suggests it may become even better with another six months to a year of bottle age.  Even if that does not happen, though, it is an excellent value. 89 Paul Lukacs Nov 2, 2010

David Hickinbotham, South Australia (Australia) Merlot 'Paringa' 2008 ($10, Quintessential Wines):  This is a most unusual Merlot, and generally not my preferred style, but it does have its charms. This full-blown Aussie red is in your face with waves of ripe cherry and blueberry fruit and a massive whiff of eucalyptus, but in the final analysis what you have is a rich, smooth Aussie red that will turn heads. If you're looking for subtlety, look elsewhere. But if you want power and richness (15 percent alcohol) at a stunningly low price, this is your ticket on the e-train! 88 Robert Whitley Nov 2, 2010

Hickinbothom, South Australia (Australia) Merlot 'Paringa' 2008 ($10, Quintessential Wines):  This is a most unusual Merlot. It's generally not my preferred style, but it does have its charms. This full-blown Aussie red is in your face with waves of ripe cherry and blueberry fruit and a massive whiff of eucalyptus, but in the final analysis, you have a rich, smooth Aussie red that will turn heads. If you're looking for subtlety, look elsewhere. But if you want power and richness (15 percent alcohol) at a stunningly low price, this is your ticket on the e-train! 88 Robert Whitley Nov 30, 2010

Hill of Content, South Australia (Australia) Grenache Shiraz 2003 ($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Importer John Larchet produces this wine himself, sourcing fruit from two excellent viticultural regions -- the Clare Valley and McLaren Vale. The bulk of the blend is Grenache, giving the wine a sweet red-fruit aroma profile with hints of pepper and eucalyptus imparted by the McLaren Vale Shiraz. A steal at the price. 88 Robert Whitley Nov 28, 2006

Jacob's Creek, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002 ($13, Pernod Ricard): Upfront ripe berry fruit, along with a touch of spice and mint, make this an engaging, easy to like Shiraz. It is full-bodied but remarkably harmonious for a wine touching 15 percent alcohol 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006

Jacob's Creek, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2003 ($13, Pernod Ricard USA): This is a very good wine and, within its price peer group, a standout. Many Shiraz bottlings priced in the low teens seem styled for cocktail-style drinking but are far too sweet to perform adequately with a reasonably wide range of dishes. By contrast, this wine is full of deep, ripe flavors, but is virtually free of overt sweetness. Blackberry and red raspberry notes lead the way, with subtle mint, spice, and smoke accents lending additional interest. 88 Michael Franz Mar 14, 2006

Jim Barry, South Australia (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “The Cover Drive” 2006 ($20, Negociants, USA): This wine sports a stated alcohol level of 15%, and yet it does not finish 'hot' or seem over-ripe or overblown.  Rather, it is just very generous in flavor and texture, with broad, soft fruit recalling black cherries and black plums.  Oak is notable but relatively restrained, and this would be a good candidate for pairing with a grilled flank steak. 88 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2009

Paringa, South Australia (Australia) Merlot 2003 ($8, The Grateful Palate): Those looking for Merlot to fulfill the role of "Cabernet Light" will be sorely disappointed in this wine, whereas those who want some guts with their plummy Merlot flavor will regard this as a miracle--especially given the price. Indeed, this wine is so intense that it really requires food, and though it is a bit lacking in finesse, its depth of flavor is really just astonishing for the money. 88 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz/ Mourvèdre “Bin 2” 2005 ($15, FWE Imports): A consistently fine value, this sun-drenched Aussie blend may be Rhône-inspired, but definitely tastes true to its Down Under origins.  Ripe plum and cherry fruit provides the dominant, forward impression, with hints of pepper and spice lurking in the background.  Sipping it inspires thoughts of barbecue.
88 Paul Lukacs Mar 24, 2009

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz/Cabernet “Koonunga Hill” 2005 ($12, FWE Imports): Fully-fruited, with an almost opulent bouquet and deep, satisfying flavors, this wine offers a lot of bang for not many bucks.  Its cherry and plum flavors become enhanced by secondary notes that echo coffee and chocolate, giving it a compelling complexity than few $12 reds can match.  That's why it is an excellent wine for restaurateurs to consider pouring by the glass. 88 Paul Lukacs Oct 16, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz “Kalimna Bin 28” 2004 ($25, FWE Imports): Though named for a single Barossa Valley vineyard, Penfolds' 'Kalimna Bin 28' is in fact a multi-regional blend, with grapes sourced from McLaren Vale, Padthaway, and Langhorne Creek, in addition to Barossa.  All those places, though, are capable of producing fully ripe fruit, and this wine reflects just that--robust, generous full-flavored Down Under Shiraz.  Enhanced by notable overtones of American oak, this most definitely is a hedonistic, pleasure-filled wine.  There's nothing subtle about it. 88 Paul Lukacs Oct 16, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (South Australia) Shiraz Mourvedre 'Bin 2' 2008 ($15, FWE Imports):  In the Bin 2 Shiraz Mourvedre Penfolds does what Australia does best, delivering a high-impact wine for a low-impact price. The concentration of black fruits is impressive, and the power and length, too. The fruit is supported by a generous percentage of new oak, and the result is a mouth-filling red that will stand up to sturdy cuisine from the grill. Hints of spice and mint provide notes of intrigue in an otherwise straightforward fruit bomb from Oz. 88 Robert Whitley Aug 31, 2010

Peter Lehmann, South Australia () Shiraz Grenache Art Series 2010 ($13, The Hess Collection): Medium-bodied and firmly structured, the Shiraz Grenache from Peter Lehmann makes for a very good summer food wine. Showing spicy red fruits and enough bite to compete with pungent flavors from the grill, I would serve this wine with ribs and grilled chicken or savory brats. And on a warm summer day, a dip in the ice bucket would be most beneficial. Great everyday wine at the price.
88 Robert Whitley Jul 3, 2012

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Yellow Label 2006 ($11, Foster's Wine Estates): Uncommonly complex and classy for a Shiraz bottling in this price category, this wine offers lots of deep, dark fruit without ever seeming chunky or obvious.  The aromas and flavors are very expressive, yet are well balanced against one another, and everything comes together in an impressively persistent finish. 88 Michael Franz Feb 26, 2008

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Merlot "Yellow Label" 2006 ($13, Foster's Wine Estates Americas): Merlot is not a major red variety in Australia although it is gaining in popularity, mainly because of Merlot's international presence.  Traditional fermentation was employed, with aging for 12 months in French and American oak.  The color is a medium-full ruby and the slight nose is plummy with black cherry and traces of licorice. There are sweet fruit flavors and ample tannins for structure and good length.   Another example of what the Aussies do so well at this price point.  A short note about alcohol: I tasted four Yellow Label red wines, all finished at (coincidental?) 13.5% alcohol, which means by U.S. law, that the wines can range from 12% (not likely) to 15%. More meaningful, perhaps, is none of the four wines showed any heat. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 9, 2008

Paringa, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2003 ($8, The Grateful Palate): I do not understand how it is possible to get this much flavor into a bottle and then ship it around the world to sell it for $8. Nevertheless, my incomprehension should not stand in the way of your enjoyment, and thus I strongly recommend this for lovers of big Shiraz who are working with a small budget. Very intense in terms of both aroma and flavor, this is a bruiser rather than a charmer, but the fruit notes are true to the grape, and the wood is not overdone. Can you get more bang for the buck? I doubt it. 87 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Cabernet 'Koonunga Hill' 2007 ($12, Foster's Wine Estates): If you're on a budget but refuse to drink mediocre wine, the Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet may be right up your alley. This supple, approachable red offers lovely aromas of blueberry and raspberry, with subtle hints of oak vanillin and mint. 87 Robert Whitley Jun 30, 2009

Step Rd Winery, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($13, Kysela): This is a very assertive, expressive wine, with intense notes of red and black raspberries overwhelming everything else in the glass and--for that matter--everything else in my tasting room.  The body is full, but the tannins are soft and ripe, so the only issue for near-term consumption is posed by the intensity of the fruit.  If you prefer relatively restrained wines, you'll want to give this a couple of years to calm down, but if a wild ride is more your thing, buckle up and give it a rip. 87 Michael Franz Jan 2, 2007

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Yellow Label" 2006 ($13, Foster's Wine Estates Americas): If not for the subtle herbal/leafy notes in this Cabernet, it would be hard to distinguish from the Merlot.  Traditional fermentation followed by maturing in used oak and stainless steel was employed for this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The nose is faint with herbs and subtle fruit backnotes while the flavors show dark berries, plums, all supported by fine tannins and 13.5% alcohol in the finish. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 9, 2008

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 'Yellow Label' 2006 ($13, Fosters Wine Estates):

The Yellow Label line of wines from Wolf Blass has looked very attractive in the past couple of vintages, and that is certainly true of this particular bottling.  Aromas and flavors of red and black berries are quite appealing, with a subtle accent note of oak lending additional aromatic interest and a hint of pepper showing in the finish.

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yellow Label” 2006 ($13, FWE Imports): The Wolf Blass wines in this 'Yellow Label' line have really looked strong in the past couple of vintages, and this fine Cabernet is a good case in point.  It offers lots of richness and depth, with good concentration and flavors of black currents and black cherry that really linger on the palate.  For all of its density and sheer size, which are certainly impressive given the approachable price, it is nevertheless admirably restrained, and is an excellent value on grounds of class even more than due to its intensity. 87 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz "Yellow Label" 2006 ($11, FWE Imports): This Shiraz manages to be robust without turning overbearing.  The aromas and flavors show dark berry notes in the forefront, with a degree of ripeness that provides deep flavors but also freshness.  A light touch of oak lends a bit of complexity and a bit of extra grip in the finish. 87 Michael Franz Jan 29, 2008

Paringa, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($8, The Grateful Palate): The angular nature of Cabernet Sauvignon doesn't quite lend itself as well as Merlot or Shiraz to the Paringa approach for this line of wines, but this is nevertheless a pretty remarkable bottling. The red Paringa 2003s are all macerated and pressed to the hilt, and though they'd be out of place at the ballet, they'd fit right in at a rugby match. This wine has a hardness that deprives it of the depth of flavor of its stablemates, but if you match it with robust red meat dishes, it will deliver an unbelievably impressive return on your small investment. 85 Michael Franz Jan 10, 2006

Paringa, South Australia (Australia) Merlot 2008 ($10, Quintessential):  When you think of Australian red wines, Merlot is not a variety that comes to mind.  This 2008 Paringa Merlot from Riverland helps explain why.  The color is good and the aromatics are ripe and plumy with dark chocolate notes, but the wine lacks varietal definition and the 15% alcohol leaves an alcoholic burn in the finish.  Maybe another year or two in bottle may help smooth out the rough edges. 85 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 7, 2010

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Merlot “Koonunga Hill” 2005 ($12, FWE Imports): Rich, ripe fruit dominates this attractive but fairly one-dimensional wine.  Merlot is not much of an Aussie specialty, and while there is nothing wrong with this wine, it does not shine as brightly as others in the Penfolds 'Koonunga Hill' line. 85 Paul Lukacs Oct 16, 2007

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Cabernet 2006 ($13, Foster's Wine Estates Americas): Unless otherwise noted on the label, this traditional Australian blend is a 50-50 split.  The varietal parcels were fermented and aged in oak separately before the final blend. The color is a deep ruby, while the nose is fragrant with ripe raspberry and spice notes.  It is structured and fruity, with subtle mint and spice notes, but the acidity seemed a little out of whack with a sharp tang that dominated the finish, again at 13.5% alcohol.  Perhaps the acidity would not be as noticeable when paired with food. 85 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 9, 2008

Fire Block, Watervale (Clare Valley, South Australia) Grenache "Old Vine" 2003 ($19, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): It's rare for a young wine to deliver mature flavors, but this 100% Grenache, aged in old oak barrels, does.  It has an alluring combination of bright raspberries -- characteristic of Clare Valley Grenache I'm told -- spice and hints of caramel, which I usually associated with older, developed wines. Its balance belies the 15% alcohol.  It's a good value for current drinking. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2007

Tapanappa, Wrattonbully (South Australia) Whalebone Vineyard 2003 ($63, Palm Bay): Tapanappa Wrattonbully South Australia This red blend is the product of a joint venture between the family of Brian Croser, the Cazes family of Lynch Bages in Bordeaux, and the Bollinger family of Champagne. That is a pretty talented lineup, and this is a commensurately impressive wine. Composed of 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Shiraz and 10 percent Cabernet Franc drawn from a 30 year-old vineyard, it shows serious depth and power, but also remarkable subtlety and balance. It was aged entirely in new French barriques, but shows its oak only as an accent, not as a primary note. The dark berry fruit is extremely appealing, as are the accents of toast, dried herbs and fresh mushrooms. 92 Michael Franz Oct 3, 2006

Tapanappa, Wrattonbully (South Australia, Australia) Merlot Whalebone Vineyard 2004 ($70, Palm Bay): To say that this is one of the best renditions of Merlot from Australia is not saying much, since that grape variety has enjoyed little esteem or success Down Under.  However, this wine deserves much better than being damned by faint praise, so let me just say that it is an excellent wine, with very good concentration and depth of flavor but also a degree of restraint and elegance that is rarely achieved in Australia with either Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon.  The aromas show very nice accents of cedar, smoke and dried herbs, and the palate is full of flavor without quite being full-bodied.  Fine-grained tannins and understated wood notes are well tuned to the weight of the fruit, providing a finish that is structurally balanced and stylistically symmetrical. 91 Michael Franz Feb 19, 2008

Coldstream Hills, Yarra Valley (Australia) Pinot Noir 2006 ($22, Fosters Wine Estates):

Ever since my first visit to Australia's Yarra Valley, more than a decade ago, I've been convinced this cool region near Melbourne was destined to become another hotspot for top-class Pinot Noir, perhaps on a par with Oregon's Willamette Valley or California's Russian River. So far, however, the Yarra has been long on promise but short on delivery. Thus this fairly inexpensive '06 Pinot from Coldstream Hills is a bit of an eye-opener. It opens in the glass with a gorgeous nose of violets and spice, unfolding on the palate with generous, fleshy layers of red-fruit complexity such as blueberry and cherry, all held together with bright acidity and complemented by backnotes of savory earthiness. The tannins are fine and smooth, contributing to a silky mouthfeel that is worthy of the finest red Burgundy. And at this price, it's a Pinot lover's steal!

Rosé:

Angove's, Riverland (South Australia) "Nine Vines Rose" 2005 ($10, Trinchero Vineyards): This Aussie rose first came to my attention when it won a Best of Show award at a major international wine competition. This is another in a string of excellent vintages since then. Produced from Grenache and Syrah grapes sourced from the Riverland region of South Australia, the Angove's Nine Vines is a vibrant dry rose made for easy summer sipping. It shows bright red currant and raspberry aromas, a hint of spice and a long finish - a steal at $10 or less. 88 Robert Whitley Sep 5, 2006

Sparkling:

Paringa, South Australia (Australia) Sparkling Shiraz 2008 ($13, Quintessential):  Sparkling Shiraz, once known as Sparkling Burgundy, is an Australian original, though it is little known by American wine consumers.  Traditionally aged in used American oak, this Paringa version shows some subtle French oak notes.  The  deep purple-ruby color sparkles with a slight spritz that also helps to showcase the ripe raspberry aromas and flavors, accented with cedar and mocha notes.  Finished at 13.5% alcohol, this unique, juicy sparkling red wine is just the right wine to have with dark chocolate desserts. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 7, 2010

Paringa, South Australia (Australia) Sparkling Shiraz 2013 ($18, Quintessential): Australians aren’t the only ones who love their sparkling Shiraz.  I’m a fan myself, as are an increasing number of non-Aussie wine drinkers. Paringa is deep garnet red, with rich berry-jam flavors tempered by a steady stream of fine bubbles and just enough refreshing acidity.  This is actually an excellent match for many kinds of food, especially barbecue and other dishes with a sweet-spicy character.  It works well with bacon too -- in Australia it’s frequently poured at brunch.  Be sure the wine is chilled down and, for me, anyway, served in a regular wine glass, never a flute (putting sparkling red wine in a flute reduces its rambunctious flavors and diminishes its energetic personality).
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 8, 2016

White:

d’Arenberg, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) “The Hermit Crab” 2008 ($16, Old Bridge Cellars):  A blend crafted from Viognier (72%) and Marsanne (28%), this delicious wine shows some richness and complexity while also seeming fresh, delicate, and straightforward in its pure deliciousness.  Light floral notes and accents of subtle straw and minerals are quite interesting against the backdrop of medium-bodied, peach-flavored fruit.  You'd be well advised to take a cue from the label and pair this up with a crab cake. 91 Michael Franz Apr 27, 2010

Penfolds, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Thomas Hyland” 2008 ($14, FWE Imports):  Phenomenally serious for the money, this is a Riesling in the classic mold of South Australia that will likely not just last but actually improve for more than a decade.  When served fully chilled it seems bone dry, though a bit of sweetness becomes apparent as the wine warms.  Nevertheless, this is crisp, cutting stuff, perfect for shellfish or delicate preparations of finfish.  An excellent value. 91 Michael Franz Jan 5, 2010

Peter Lehmann, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) "Layers" 2010 ($17, Hess Imports):  Like a pretty girl wearing a white summer dress in the shade on a hot day, this wine's aroma is light and pretty and alluring:  A blend of 37% Semillon, 20.5% Muscat, 19.5% Gewurztraminer, 19% Pinot Gris, 4% Chardonnay, it is lightly floral with lichee notes. When you taste it, it's juicier and deeper than you expect, but it's not heavy.  It's like biting into a ripe, juicy melon with some floral hints and a note of anise, along with a slightly sweet finish.  It's like the aroma is the pretty girl, and then you get to kiss her. 11.5% alcohol. 91 W. Blake Gray Feb 8, 2011

Penfolds, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Thomas Hyland” 2008 ($14):  Now nearly three years old, this 2008 exhibits impressive aromatic complexity, with a mélange of fruit flavors enhanced by mineral-laden secondary notes, and then on the palate, a steely but very long finish.  It’s still on store shelves in many places, and given its firm acidity, shows every sign of being able to age gracefully for at least a few more years. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 29, 2011

Wolf Blass, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Gold Label” 2009 ($18, FWE Imports):  The classic Riesling aroma--a little petrol, some lime peel, a whiff of citrus blossoms--seduces from the get-go, then a rolling, steely, briny acidity wakes up any remaining somnolent pleasure receptors.  The wine is dry, but has enough fleshiness to keep the palate engaged.  I drank it recently with lobster--a highly recommendable pairing! 90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 3, 2010

Penfolds, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Thomas Hyland” 2007 ($15, FWE Imports): A new offering from Penfolds, due to arrive on these shores in the next few weeks, this is an exciting Riesling, full of lime and citrus-flavored fruit, but at the same time ripe and fleshy on the palate.  It exhibits excellent balance, and is simply fun to savor. 88 Paul Lukacs Oct 16, 2007

Peter Lehmann, Adelaide (Australia) 'Layers' 2008 ($15, Hess Collection): This eclectic blend from Peter Lehmann comes with a seriously high yum factor. All of the different grapes -- Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and Semillon -- contribute to the end result. It's floral, spicy, fruity, refreshing, juicy, well balanced and, as the name suggests, layered. 88 Robert Whitley Apr 28, 2009

Peter Lehmann, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) “Layers” 2008 ($15, Hess Collection): I've never seen a wine under the Peter Lehmann brand that wasn't sourced from Barossa, but things are apparently changing since Donald Hess bought the operation relatively recently.  In any case, it seems difficult to find fault with this new wine, which is an unspecified blend that offers delicious tropical fruit aromas and flavors in a medium-bodied format with excellent balancing acidity and some nuances that actually enable it to live up to its proprietary name. 88 Michael Franz Feb 10, 2009

Wolf Blass, Adelaide (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Gold Label” 2007 ($18, FWE Imports): Showing plenty of bright lime flavors of the sort that characterize dry Rieslings from South Australia, this wine tastes zesty and fun.  It does not have the nuanced depth of the very finest Down Under renditions, but it's fairly priced and undeniably pleasurable. 88 Paul Lukacs Sep 23, 2008

Peter Lehmann, Adelaide (South Australia) 'Layers' 2010 ($17, Hess Collection):  An unconventional blend of Semillon (37%), Muscat (20%), Gewürztraminer (20%), Pinot Gris (19%) and Chardonnay suggests that this wine was an afterthought—a way to use leftovers—not planned.  Whatever the motivation, it’s an engaging blend that works.  Flowery aromatics reinforce its lightness (11.5% stated alcohol) while a lovely lanolin-like texture, undoubtedly from the Semillon, contributes body.  A touch more acidity would make it perkier, but it’s still a good choice as an aperitif or summery dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Dandelion Vineyards, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc Wishing Clock of the Adelaide Hills 2014 ($25): Very much in the style of a Bordeaux blanc, Dandelion's Wishing Clock Sauvignon Blanc delivers on the nose and delivers on the palate with aromas of white flowers and white peach. This well balanced Sauvignons is among the finest I've tasted from Australia. It was awarded a platinum medal at the 2014 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition. 95 Robert Whitley Sep 23, 2014

Penfolds, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Chardonnay 2005 ($60, FWE Imports):  Yattarna, Penfolds’ top of the line Chardonnay, has undergone a welcome transition from oaky and oily to this refined, creamy, toasty version.  Penfolds attributes it to the source of the fruit, the cool Adelaide Hills, which gives less ripe grapes with more freshness to the wine.  With a stated alcohol of 13.3%, Penfolds demonstrates clearly that wines needn’t have high alcohol to transmit flavor and intensity.  The influence of oak aging enhances and doesn’t dominate.  This is Australian Chardonnay at its best. 95 Michael Apstein May 17, 2011

Dandelion Vineyards, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc Wishing Clock of the Adelaide Hills 2014 ($25): A wishing clock is the white puffball of a flower of the dandelion plant, and this bottle of Wishing Clock will fulfill the dreams of your favorite Sauvignon Blanc lover.  After a Best of Show award at the 2014 Sommelier Challenge, the roll continues with a Platinum Award at the 2015 San Diego International Wine Competition.  Aromas of white peach, melon, mild gooseberry and a very light touch of sweet cut-grass lead to a crisp dry palate that adds lemon and wet stone to the flavors promised by the nose. It's long and refreshing, and a value at this price.
94 Rich Cook Jan 27, 2015

Groom, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($17, Winebow): Daryl Groom knows a thing or two about winemaking, having made wine in California for two decades.  He’s probably best known for being the winemaker at Penfolds in Australia responsible for their iconic Grange in the mid 1980s.  But he also was Penfolds’ chief white winemaker, which probably explains why this Sauvignon Blanc is so good.  It has stylish grapefruit pungency without being overdone.  Zesty, but without screaming acidity, it has body and conveys refreshing citrus flavors.  This is a terrific example of Sauvignon Blanc—and it’s under 13% alcohol.  Buy it. 92 Michael Apstein May 18, 2010

Henschke, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Pinot Gris Innes Vineyard 2005 ($25, Necogiants USA): You know how, on a beautiful June morning, you might get out of bed, fling open the curtains, and be bowled over by the beauty of the early morning light streaming through the window?  This wine is the sensory equivalent for your taste buds.  With the first sip a dazzling golden rush of flavor bursts across your palate, and lingers on…and on.  The dominant taste is not so much pears as concentrated essence of pear--rich, round, ripe--and the oily texture helps deliver that gustatory impression to every microscopic corner of the mouth.  If you're looking for a light, delicate Pinot Gris, this one probably isn't what you want, but for sheer decadent pleasure it's irresistible.  Furthermore, 2005 was a terrific vintage, so the wine should be good for at least another two or three years (but why wait when it's so good now?). 92 Marguerite Thomas Jun 12, 2007

The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Viognier 2006 ($30, Vintage New World): Viognier is a tough grape to vinify.  Often the wine can be heavy and blowsy or alcoholic because the grapes need to be very ripe to transmit the requisite aroma and flavor to the wine.  John Edwards, owner of The Lane Vineyard, has done a fabulous job with his 2006.  Nuances of peach identify the varietal without overwhelming the palate.  A lovely texture fills the mouth and bright acid keeps it lively.  You'd never guess it has 14% alcohol and shows that you can't judge wines solely by their alcohol level. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008

Wolf Blass, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Chardonnay “Gold Label” 2007 ($23, FWE Imports):  Mature and drinking at its peak, this Aussie Chardonnay (sealed with a screwcap) offers impressive complexity, with mineral-tinged undertones that give it impressive depth.  It has the sort of interplay of fruit and earth that more typically characterizes good white Burgundies, and so while somewhat atypical for South Australia is definitely a wine worth buying. 91 Paul Lukacs Oct 19, 2010

Dandelion Vineyards, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 'Wishing Clock of the Adelaide Hills' 2013 ($25): Dandelion frequently dazzles with its red wines, but the white are not to be ignored.  This Sauvignon Blanc is a lovely wine, well balanced, with ripe grapefruit aroma and a floral note for some added complexity. A platinum medal-winning at Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.

90 Robert Whitley Jan 28, 2014

Shaw and Smith, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($21, Vintus Imports): It's hard to imagine a Sauvignon Blanc that is more varietally true than this wine.  On the nose it has a 'cat-pee' character typical of the Loire, as well as a citrus, grapefruit note that suggests New World Sauvignon - but not New Zealand, where the wine's 'sauvage' character would not be considered desirable.  In the mouth, the wine has an intensity of fruit character that is very New World.  In short, the wine is varietal without compromise, New World without compromise.  Although not everyone will enjoy the pungency and precision of flavor that this wine has, Sauvignon Blanc aficionados certainly will, as will anyone who likes wines that balance their flavor intensity and purity with structural intensity. A wine that is hard to fault. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 23, 2007

Shaw and Smith, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($21, Vintus): It's hard to imagine a Sauvignon Blanc that is more varietally true than this wine.  On the nose it has a 'cat-pee' character typical of the Loire, as well as a citrus, grapefruit note that suggests New World Sauvignon--but not New Zealand, where the wine's "sauvage" character would not be considered desirable.  In the mouth, the wine has an intensity of fruit character that is very New World.  In short, the wine is varietal without compromise, New World without compromise.  Although not everyone will enjoy the pungency and precision of flavor that this wine has, Sauvignon Blanc aficionados certainly will, as will anyone who likes wines that balance their flavor intensity and purity with structural intensity.  A wine that is hard to fault. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 30, 2007

Shaw and Smith, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($21, Vintus Imports): It's hard to imagine a Sauvignon Blanc that is more varietally true than this wine.  On the nose it has a 'cat-pee' character typical of the Loire, as well as a citrus, grapefruit note that suggests New World Sauvignon (but not New Zealand, where the wine's 'sauvage' character would not be considered desirable).  In the mouth, the wine has an intensity of fruit character that is very New World.  In short, the wine is varietal without compromise, New World without compromise.  Although not everyone will enjoy the pungency and precision of flavor that this wine has, Sauvignon Blanc aficionados certainly will, as will anyone who likes wines that balance their flavor intensity and purity with structural intensity.  A wine that is hard to fault. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Nov 7, 2006

Penfolds, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Bin 51” 2007 ($19, FWE Imports): A floral bouquet coupled with crisp lime-tinged fruit flavors and a finish marked by slate-like notes distinguish this impressive Riesling from one of Australia's leading producers.  This medium-weight white should age nicely for five years or so, but is delicious now.  It fairly shouts 'spring.' 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 25, 2008

The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon “Estate Grown” 2006 ($30, Vintage New World): Bright and pungent, but not overly piercing, this Sauvignon Blanc has an attractive texture and weight in the mid-palate.  Chalky minerality complemented by lemony nuances spread across the mouth. It comes across as less edgy than the typical version from neighboring New Zealand. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

Tryst, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon/Pinot 2007 ($14, Click Wine Group): A very interesting and useful blend, this shows highly expressive aromas and excellent balance between crisp freshness and generous depth of flavor.  The 27% Semillon component is quite clear in its contribution, as is--surprisingly--the 5% Pinot Gris. 89 Michael Franz Mar 11, 2008

Henschke, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc "Coralinga" 2005 ($27, Negociants): A somewhat hefty Sauvignon Blanc, marked by a sour ('cat pee') note in the bouquet, bright citrus and green berry fruit, and an attractively ripe finish.  This is very much a wine for people who enjoy an aggressive style of Sauvignon Blanc.  Those who prefer tamer wines will be disappointed. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 14, 2007

Nepenthe, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) “Tryst” 2007 ($14, Click Wine Group): This blend of 68% Sauvignon Blanc, 27% Semillon and 5% Pinot Gris is very refreshing for a medium-bodied wine, with a big blast of Sauvignon playing a prominent role in both the aromatic and flavor impression.  Yet there is also real depth and substance to the wine, no doubt contributed by the weightier Semillon component, which brings the wine into a medium-bodied mode without weighing it down.  Very fresh but also quite satisfying, this is an exceedingly versatile choice for by-the-glass pouring in restaurants. 88 Michael Franz Feb 19, 2008

Off the Leash, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) “Finn No Oak White” 2006 ($23, Tom Eddy Wines): Predominantly Chardonnay, with the rest of the blend composed of Semillon, Pinot Gris and Viognier, this is an attractively vibrant wine, marked by pear and ripe apple flavors, a faintly spicy undertone, and a long, nuanced finish.  Odds are that it won't age well, so drink it up this summer. 88 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Wakefield, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($17, American Wine Distributors):  Wakefield is a relatively new Australian brand in the U.S. market, although the winery was founded in 1969 by the Taylor family.  The Adelaide Hills, situated between the city of Adelaide and the noted Barossa Valley, is known for Sauvignon Blanc.  This tank fermented Sauvignon has a bright light gold color, floral and citrus aromatics with a subtle trace of tropical fruit.  There’s medium fruit, brisk acidity, 13% alcohol and a medium dry finish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 3, 2012

Primo Estate, Adelaide Plains (South Australia) "La Biondina" 2005 ($15, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Proprietor Joe Grilli's eclectic side comes through in this unusual white wine made primarily from the all-but-forgotten grape variety of Colombard. The knock on Colombard, and the reason you almost never see it on a label any more, is that it lacks personality. It comes to life, however, in Grilli's hands. He sexes it up a bit with a dash of riesling and a dash of sauvignon blanc in the blend, and the result is a fresh, clean white with lovely notes of citrus and a lush, juicy palate. 87 Robert Whitley Oct 24, 2005

Torbreck, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Semillon 2007 ($18, Australian Wine Connection): A rich, woody (but not excessively so) rendition of Semillon, this wine shows that varietal's characteristically waxy texture, something that tends to make wines made with this grape be especially good food partners.  The mouth-coating sensation enables them to hold their own with rich seafood or poultry dishes, as they seem to have an uncanny affinity for cream or butter sauces.  This particular wine would be a great partner for lobster in almost any guise. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 3, 2009

Jacob’s Creek, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Steingarten” 2006 ($25, Pernod Ricard):  At 3 and one-half years of age, this absolutely dry wine is just starting to hit its stride, and past bottlings would indicate that it may take another ten to hit its apogee before heading into a very slow decline.  Utterly dry, with an admirably austere fruit profile in keeping with the style of the best Australian renderings of Riesling, there’s nothing here to cover any flaws, and no flaws are evident at any point in the tasting experience.  Notes of tart apple and slightly under-ripe stone fruit (white peach) are subtle but evident, and there’s just a little hint of petrol/ mineral complexity starting to show in the aromas and finish.  The acidity is energetic and abundant, but very nicely tuned to the weight of the wine, enlivening the finish but never turning overly tart or screechy.  Pair this with relatively delicate seafood dishes ranging from raw oysters to sautéed finfish. 93 Michael Franz Dec 1, 2009

Jacob's Creek, Barossa Valley (Australia) Riesling "Steingarten" 2005 ($25, Pernod Ricard):

Jacob's Creek enjoys a well-deserved reputation for its many well-made, value-priced wines, but this large Down Under producer also fashions a number of superior premium wines, among which the Steingarten Riesling stands out as a clear leader.  Impeccably balanced, it is very dry but fully flavored.  When in Australia a number of years ago, I was fortunate enough to taste a number of older vintages, and so can say confidently this 2005 will not only last but in fact will improve with five to ten years of cellaring.  It's a true standout.

John Duval Wines, Barossa Valley (South Australia) Rhône-Style White Blend “Plexus” 2011 ($30, Old Bridge Cellars):  Full disclosure:  I almost always find Rhône-Style blends underwhelming even when they’re from the Rhône, and am generally even less impressed with New World renditions blending Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, as in this wine.  They’re often either mute aromatically or overly perfumed by Viognier, and likewise they oscillate between being bland on the palate or overly rich and ponderous.  With that said, I’ll hopefully have a little added credibility when writing that this wine totally breaks the mold, showing remarkable intricacy and delicacy, with subtle aromas and flavors and precise balance of ripeness and acidity and a mineral finish that I’d never believe could come from the Barossa Valley if I hadn’t experienced it for myself.  The explanation for all of this is presumably the phenomenal talent and experience of John Duval, longtime head winemaker for Penfolds.  This will prove highly versatile at the table, pairing beautifully with fish, fowl or white meats.  A remarkable wine in terms of its sheer class…who knew? 92 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2012

Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2010 ($16, Banfi Vintners):  Riesling “Grand Barossa” 2010 ($16, Banfi Vintners):  I’ve had so many fine Rieslings from Australia that I should not be surprised by another one.  But this one surprised me, not because it was so good, but because of the origin of the grapes.  Australia’s Barossa is actually comprised of two valleys, the Barossa Valley and the Eden Valley.  While exceptional Shiraz comes from both locales, the Eden Valley is also well known for Riesling.  This wine’s bracing minerality and precision suggested the grapes came from the Eden Valley.  Not true, according to Stuart Barrie, spokesman for Chateau Tanunda, the grandest winery in the region.  He notes that the fruit came from their vineyards in the Barossa Valley, some of which were planted in the 1920s.  They harvest early to capture the grapes’ acidity and as a result the wine has a stated alcohol of only 11.5%.  Beautifully balanced, this dry Riesling has depth and verve, making it a perfect choice to cut the heat and humidity currently afflicting the east coast. It would go equally well with mussels in a tomato sauce or light summery salads. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2011

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Semillon 2002 ($12, Hess Collection New World Wines): An amazing overachiever at this price and this age, this is a remarkable wine. Full bodied and packed with complex aromas and flavors, this shows lovely notes driven by fresh fig and green melon fruit notes. Accents of straw and roasted nuts lend additional complexity, and fresh acidity keeps everything crisp and balanced. I've tasted Peter Lehmann Semillons that were still improving five years after the vintage and delicious after a decade, so you need not worry that this vintage will crack up anytime soon. 90 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2006

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Semillon 2005 ($12, Hess Imports): Well-kept renditions of this wine are delicious on release and capable of developing additional complexities for up to a decade thereafter, which is virtually unheard of for a white wine in this price category.  Moreover, almost all of the flaws that I've ever seen in not-well-kept examples of this wine were attributable to the shortcomings of poor corks that oxidized the bottles, whereas now it is being (very sensibly) treated to a screw cap closure.  This 2005 release is very fresh and vibrant, with fruit notes recalling figs and honeydew melon, with a nice citric edge that lifts the relatively rich and deeply flavored fruit.  This is one of the world's best, most consistent, and most versatile white wines in the medium- to full-bodied range. 89 Michael Franz Mar 27, 2007

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Semillon 2006 ($12, Hess Imports): Year after year, this wine offers consumers an exciting and reasonably-priced full-bodied alternative to oak-laden Chardonnay.  It's rich and waxy, with an almost lanolin-like texture, tastes of ripe summer fruit, and proves to be a perfect partner for grilled fish like salmon, tuna, or swordfish.  I think of it as the poster white for the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) crowd. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 24, 2009

Chateau Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Grand Barossa” 2009 ($16, Banfi Vintners):  This vibrant, fresh Riesling reminds me of the very young Rieslings that I have tasted in Australia, where freshness rules.  It’s fairly dry and is lean and crisp, with some dissolved CO2 contributing to the freshness.  Aromas and flavors seem more minerally than fruity, but the wine does have tart citrus and citrus-skin notes.  I generally like Australian Rieslings when they are rounded out with a bit more age, and yet even now this wine is extremely enjoyable. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Mar 30, 2010

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Semillon 2006 ($11, Hess Imports): Cold fermentation in stainless steel tanks was employed by Andrew Wiggin, chief winemaker for Peter Lehmann, to retain the freshness and essence of this Barossa Semillon.  A brilliant light gold color and low intensity floral and citrus nose follows, leading into medium flavors with hints of honey and citrus and zingy acidity.   Wiggin recommends this Semillon with Caesar salad and suggests that it is “A must have white wine in the fridge for any occasion,” and at the price, who could refuse? 88 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 11, 2009

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Semillon 2005 ($12, Hess Imports):

Exceptionally consistent and quite attractively priced, this wine features deep flavors of figs and peaches and nice accents of dried herbs.  Full-bodied but neither heavy nor ponderous, it will match up nicely with rich fish dishes or moderately robust preparations of chicken.

Wakefield Estates, Claire Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005 ($16, Brown-Forman): Here is a very pure Riesling with bright citrus-floral aromas, tangy mouth-watering acidity, a hint of passion fruit and a long balanced, crisp finish. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Kilikanoon, Claire Valley (South Australia) Riesling “Mort’s Reserve” 2010 ($35, Old Bridge Cellars):  The grapes for this crisp zesty Riesling came from the Watervale sub-region of Claire Valley, one of Australia’s premier areas for Riesling.  There is a brilliant clarity to this wine, evident in the bright light gold color, low intensity lemon zest and a subtle hint of acacia in the aromatics.  It has zingy acidity, lemony flavors without being tart, 12.5% alcohol and a full mouth-watering finish.  This juicy Riesling is just the right choice with a wide range of light foods.
91 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 27, 2012

Petaluma, Claire Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling "Hamlin Hill" 2005 ($19, Paterno): This delightful Riesling from the northern end of the Clare Valley shows a characteristic minerality, lively acidity and a delicate floral note. It is crisp and refreshing. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Wakefield, Claire Valley (South Australia) Riesling Estate 2011 ($17, American Wine Distributors):  The grapes for this juicy Riesling come from the Taylor family’s estate vineyard in the Claire Valley.  Free-run juice was tank fermented and the wine was bottled without a hint of oak.  The brilliant light gold color frames a lovely up-front floral aroma with hints of ginger.  Bright fruity flavors are dry, supported by crisp lime-juice acidity, 12.9% alcohol and a medium finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 10, 2012

Wakefield, Claire Valley (South Australia) Riesling Estate 2011 ($17, American Wine Distributors):  The grapes for this juicy Riesling come from the Taylor family’s estate vineyard in the Claire Valley.  Free-run juice was tank fermented and the wine was bottled without a hint of oak.  The brilliant light gold color frames a lovely up-front floral aroma with hints of ginger.  Bright fruity flavors are dry, supported by crisp lime-juice acidity, 12.9% alcohol and a medium finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 3, 2012

Jim Barry, Claire Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling Florita Vineyard 2005 ($30, Negociants, USA): The Florita is a single vineyard previously owned by Aussie Riesling icon Leo Buring. This version shows bright ripe tropical fruit with citrus and jasmine notes. The structure is good, the acidity linear and it has very good length. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Leasingham, Claire Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling "Bin 7" 2005 ($15, Constellation Wines U.S.): Sourced from the Watervale area of the Clare Valley, this aromatic Riesling has great fruit, hints of grapefruit and citrus blossoms. The flavors are crisp, fruity and nicely balanced through the finish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Polish Hill 2006 ($33, The Australian Premium Wine Collection):

This is one of my two favorite producers of dry Riesling (the other is Josmeyer of Alsace) and this vintage is up there with the best I've tasted from the brilliant Jeffrey Grosset. As good as Grosset's Watrevale Riesling is, the Polish Hill is in another league. The difference is the intensity, both on the nose as well as the palate. What the Polish Hill gives you is an intense minerality that is almost impossible to find at such a high volume on most New World Rieslings. There is a lovely element of fresh lime, but the fruit takes a back seat to the searing minerality and lip-smacking acidity. If you have the patience to wait, this wine will blossom with amazing complexity and length in the mouth after several years in the bottle. Definitely a candidate for cellaring. In fact, it should almost be a requirement.

Pikes, Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling "The Merle" Reserve 2004 ($38, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): The slate and bluestone shale in some parts of the Clare enhance the mineral characteristics of the Riesling grape, and the cool evening breezes off the Gulf of St. Vinvent keep the acids fresh. That combination of elements is no small reason producers such as Pikes can craft such high class Rieslings, particularly dry Riselings that rival any made in the "Old World." Pikes' '04 is fresh and delicate, with underlying power and richness. If you like it now, you're going to love it in about five years. 96 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2005

Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Polish Hill Vineyard 2014 ($40): Arguably the best house for Riesling in all of Australia (which is saying something, for those who aren’t experienced in this category) Grosset makes renditions that are a bit sharp when young (fine by me) but age very slowly and gracefully and invariably result in superb wines.  With steely fruit recalling green apples with a sharp citrus edge and a slate tinged finish, this really calls for a full decade of ageing if you can summon the patience for that, but even a couple of years will enable this to settle down a bit and soften into something truly beautiful.  Even now, it is a striking, exciting wine for those who enjoy immaculately dry Rieslings with high acid and great linear energy.
94 Michael Franz Aug 23, 2016

Jim Barry, Clare Valley (South Australia) Assyrtiko 2019 ($43, Loosen Bros USA):  Assyrtiko is a Greek grape that makes wonderful, high-acidity wines on the Island of Santorini.   In 2012, second generation family winemaker Peter Barry grafted the first Assyrtiko into his Australian vineyards after falling in love with the grape while visiting Santorini.  His wine is mineral driven with tart stone and tropical fruit including lime, lychee, and white peach.  Despite not being surrounded by the sea, like Santorini, the wine shows a light salinity, a classic flavor for Assyrtiko.  The wine has excellent minerality and the finish has a really wonderful grapefruit zest note that compliments the entire adventure.  This might just be my first Assyrtiko grown outside of Greece and I hope that other winemakers take note and start grafting some of this wonderful variety onto their vineyards.         
94 Vince Simmon Jun 13, 2023

Petaluma, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling Hanlin Hill 2005 ($20, Beam Wine Estates): Most of the Clare Valley Rieslings showed very well; Petaluma's Hanlin Hills has excellent  distribution in the U.S.  The 2005 Hanlin Hill is light and elegant, with lovely citrus aromas and flavors.  It is drinking perfectly now. 93 Ed McCarthy Oct 16, 2007

Pikes, Clare Valley (South Australia) Viognier Gill's Farm 2006 ($22, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): It stands to reason that a region proficient with Syrah (or Shiraz, as is the case here) would likely do well with the other grape varieties found in France's Rhone Valley. Australia's Clare Valley is renowned for its intense and pure Shiraz, indeed. And this Pikes Viognier, the excellent white grape of the northern Rhone, shows an affinity for the Clare as well. This wine has a deeply intense, floral nose, notes of honeysuckle and peach, and an exciting mineral edge that is largely missing in most New World Viogniers because vintners tend to pick their Viognier grapes very ripe. 93 Robert Whitley Feb 13, 2007

Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling Watervale 2005 ($30, Wildman): Grosset, the acknowledged leader of Clare Valley Riesling producers, makes several fine Rieslings from different plots each year.  His '05 Watervale  has smoky, flinty aromas along with ripe apple, and is quite ripe in flavor.  It is rather huge in structure compared to the lighter Rieslings from Western Australia.  Still very young. 92 Ed McCarthy Oct 16, 2007

Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling “Killerman’s Run” 2019 ($21, Old Bridge Cellars):  Although newer vintages of this wine have been released, Riesling lovers are well-advised to seek out the 2019 bottles that are still available — and better for their extra time in bottle.  This is a lovely and complex dry Riesling from a superb estate in the Clare Valley of South Australia.  The bouquet is forward and enticing with an array of lime, tangerine, green and red apple fruit aromas followed by hints of fresh flowers and subtle spices.  Fresh, clean and dry on the palate, its layers of fruit are underlain by a rich texture and the intriguing floral and spice hints that linger at the finish.  It’s a perfect choice for Riesling lovers wanting to sample the best New World examples of this great grape. Delicious now with its 4 years of age, the Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Riesling will provide excellent drinking for another 2 to 3 years and more.    
92 Wayne Belding May 9, 2023

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling St. Andrews Vineyard 2014 ($20): It could be the screw cap closure, but whatever, this wine benefits enormously from 15 minutes of aeration before consumption.  Then it sings.  Dry and cutting, it has the enamel-cleansing quality of first-rate Riesling.  A firm racy edge makes it better with food, such as spiced Asian or Indian fare, as opposed to a stand along aperitif.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 20, 2016

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling 2011 ($17, American Wine Distributors):  The Clare Valley is a prime area for Riesling and Wakefield is one the region’s best producers.  Owned by the Taylor family and sold under the name Taylor in Australia, they use the Wakefield label in the US because of trademark issues.  With its absolute dryness and mineral-like tones, their 2011 Riesling is particularly impressive.  Bracing and invigorating, it shows an attractive firmness in contrast to the lacy fruity side of the varietal.  Uncork it--I mean unscrew it--the next time you need an enlivening wine to cut through spicy fare. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2012

Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Mort’s Block” 2008 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars): A delicious, complex Riesling from one of the New World’s best locations for growing the grape, this is light- to medium bodied, with more substance than one might estimate at first blush, as the energetic acidity makes it seem initially more lean and linear than it seems on closer inspection.  It shows lovely citrus fruit with backnotes of green apples and white peaches, along with a notable mineral edge and lots of fresh acidity that is well integrated.  Flashy and fun, but complex too, this seems destined for serious improvement for another five years if you can keep your hands off of it. 91 Michael Franz Jul 21, 2009

Pikes, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Traditionale” 2009 ($20, Country Vintner):  Some of the world’s most interesting and age-worthy Rieslings come from Australia, and many of those bottlings really require five years to show their stuff.  I would guess that this wine will need that much time to really come into its own, as it is extremely austere now when first opened.  However, once permitted to warm a bit and breathe for an hour, it already shows wonderful lemon/lime fruit and an engaging minerality that makes it very attractive.  Slow ageing of fine Rieslings from the Clare will bring delightful secondary aromas into play, so you’d be well advised to buy a few bottles of this for the long term, or to decant the wine if your curiosity requires you to crack into one now. 91 Michael Franz Oct 6, 2009

Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling Watervale "Mort's Block" 2009 ($35, Old Bridge Cellars):  Don’t let that 2009 vintage date on this bottle scare you off, as this wine is still a good five years from hitting its stride, and perhaps a decade from hitting its apogee.  Dry but nevertheless quite generous in both aroma and flavor, it shows intense lemon / lime fruit with a backnote of green apple.  The acidity is invigorating without seeming sour or overly tart, making this a great choice for shellfish or light preparations of finfish. 90 Michael Franz Jul 5, 2011

Knappstein, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Hand Picked” 2006 ($14, Beam Wine Estates): With a complex profile that seems to belie its approachable price, this is a very attractive wine.  The aromas are particularly intricate, with fruit notes showing elements of ripe apples and also tropical fruits, along with prominent mineral notes and other little nuances that develop with a bit of airing.  The flavor and finish are dry but not austere, with an impression of ripe fruit sweetness but not of overt residual sugar.  The zesty acidity in the finish is very well integrated with the fruit, and the whole package is very impressive. 90 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2008

Koonowla, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2007 ($17, Southern Starz): Since the Clare Valley remains a relatively obscure (in the USA, at any rate) appellation in South Australia, readers might not know that it is renowned among the wine world's cognoscenti as a prime source for ageworthy, mineral-tinged dry Rieslings.  Not everyone loves them at first blush, as they often seem austere in their dryness or a bit surprising with the herbal edge that they can show when young.  But I love them whether young or old, and think this bottling a very good introduction to the genre at an admirably reasonable price.  It shows fruit notes recalling green apple and white melon with a spritz of lime juice, along with a lightly herbal aromatic accent and notable mineral edge in the finish. 90 Michael Franz Dec 30, 2008

Koonowla, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2008 ($18, Southern Starz):  This is a very fine example of Clare Valley Riesling at a very reasonable price.  It shows light floral aromas and sharply focused fruit recalling ripe apples and mandarin oranges, with a pleasant mineral undertone and lots of fresh acidity.  Although it is certainly ready to enjoy now, it will become even more complex and interesting if you can lay it down for a couple of years. 90 Michael Franz Dec 15, 2009

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005 ($17, Brown Forman): Wakefield has fashioned a vibrant, bone dry Riesling with long, limey flavors from grapes grown in South Australia's Clare Valley, north of the Barossa.  Despite its northern locale, which should make it too hot (remember north equals heat Down Under) for a delicate variety like Riesling, the diurnal temperature variation in the Clare produces riveting, lively Rieslings.  And this one epitomizes what that region has to offer.  The balance and laser-like focus make it easy to love, especially with spicy Asian fare. 90 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007

Wakefield (Taylors), Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling 2014 ($18): I'm really loving the Riesling from Australia these days, and this is another fine example.  I think it's the acidity that's seducing me, but the vibrant jasmine aromas coupled with a palate of bright lime and stone minerality doesn't hurt either.  This is a fine aperitif, or a great pair for grilled tilapia or scallops.
90 Rich Cook Feb 17, 2015

Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Estate Label 2020 ($16, Seaview Imports):  The Riesling grape arrived in Australia in the 1800s from the Rheingau in Germany.  It may seem strange that a grape that makes complex, beautiful wines in the cool climate of Germany, would thrive and excel in a warm climate half-way around the world, but thrive and excel it does.  Rieslings from the Clare Valley in South Australia have a distinct style represented well by this one from the Wakefield family.  It is bone dry, lean and crisp with lemon, lime aromas, fresh and juicy in the mouth with a steely backbone and vibrantly zesty acidity.   Pair it with a shrimp salad or tuna tartar.       
90 Rebecca Murphy Jun 15, 2021

Wakefield Estate, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling 2015 ($17): Wakefield's Clare Valley Riesling shows the beauty of this grape variety when planted in the right locations. The Clare offers cool nights and warm days and delivers Riesling that can compete with any in the world, including Germany, albeit in a different style. This vintage of the Wakefield Clare shows stony minerals and lime fruit, with a long, juicy palate and refreshing, mouth-watering acidity that begs another sip. And there's the little-known fact that these wines develop remarkable complexity with age, though almost no one takes the time nor has the patience to do that.
90 Robert Whitley Dec 1, 2015

Angove's, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling "Vineyard Select" 2005 ($18, Trinchero Vineyards): Well made Riesling from Australia's Clare Valley is one of the world's most versatile, food-friendly wines, and this is certainly a well made rendition. Based on vivid fruit with green apple and lime notes, it is dry but very expressive in aroma and flavor. Zesty acidity lifts and freshens the fruit and greatly prolongs the finish, making this a great warm weather sipper but also a promising partner for a very wide range of foods. 88 Michael Franz Apr 26, 2006

Dandelion Vineyards, Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling Wonderland of the Eden Valley 2014 ($50):  Easily the best dry Riesling I've tasted from down under -- and I've had some memorable examples.  A nose of bright camellia, tangerine and mixed sweet stone fruit were so enticing that I found myself lingering at the rim, drawing one beautiful whiff after another. Then, the palate -- bone dry, with zesty mixed citrus, stony minerality and bracing acidity working together and gaining in intensity through an extremely long finish kept me coming back.  Pricey for Riesling, but it's got the structure that will carry it into the distant future, where fifty dollars will get you a couple of nice cappuccinos.  Who'll be laughing then?  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 San Diego International Wine Competition. 95 Rich Cook Jan 27, 2015

Yalumba, Eden Valley (South Australia) Viognier “Samuel’s Collection” 2020 ($25, Winebow):  A beautiful, graceful, dry white wine with peach, apricot, lychee flavors mingling with floral notes.  In the mouth it is rich with a creamy texture.  Winemaker Louisa Rose commented in a recent virtual tasting, “if you looked at the analysis of the Viognier, you would think it is a red, because it’s a bit higher in alcohol, with a higher pH and yet so fresh and with the ability to age.”  It comes from Eden Valley, a higher and cooler sub-region of the Barossa Valley, in which the winery is located.   Sixty percent is fermented in French oak puncheons and barriques and part in stainless steel then aged on the lees for 9 to 10 months before blending. “This is the essence of our Viognier,” she said.            
95 Rebecca Murphy Feb 28, 2023

Penfolds, Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling "Bin 51" 2014 ($40, TWE Imports):  Dry Riesling from Australia is on my very short list of the world's most criminally overlooked wine categories, and the only reason I'm not constantly ranting about this sad fact is that I worry a little about these becoming difficult for me to find and purchase.  That's a selfish impulse, though, so let's proceed to this exemplary rendition, which is gorgeous right now but poised for at least a decade of positive development in the years ahead.  It shows subtle floral topnotes along with fruit notes recalling both stone and citrus fruits, and though the wine is actually medium-bodied and full of satisfying flavor, it remains very fresh and nimble thanks to abundant acidity.  Juicy accent notes can conspire with the floral aromas to suggest sweetness that isn't really present in the form of residual sugar, which is part of the magic of high-quality Aussie Rieslings in their youth.  The wine is at once expressive and restrained, which might seem like an incoherent impression, but you'll know what I mean if you taste the wine.  Terrific juice.
94 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2017

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling The Contours, Single Vineyard Estate “Museum Reserve” 2015 ($42, Winebow):  The Eden Valley of South Australia, with its higher elevation and spare soils, has proven to be an exceptional site for producing fine Rieslings.  Pewsey Vale has been a producer from the High Eden since 1847.  The single vineyard Contours Museum Reserve 2015 Riesling is a lovely example of the ageing capability of fine Australian Riesling.  The Contours vineyard block was planted at 1500 feet in 1965.  The old vines yield a Riesling with added layers and elegance.  It is hand harvested, fermented with native yeasts and given a few months of aging on the lees.  The result is a lovely and complex dry Riesling.  The bouquet is forward and enticing with a striking gardenia/floral component and an array of Meyer lemon, lime, green and red apple fruit aromas.  It is clean, fresh and dry on the palate, with layers of pure fruit underlain by a rich texture and the intriguing honey, floral and spice hints that linger at the finish.  Delicious now, the Pewsey Vale Museum Block Contours Riesling will age beautifully for another five years and more.         
94 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (Australia) Dry Riesling 2021 ($19, Winebow):  As the label suggests this is a bone dry wine with zippy lime-leaf aromas, round pear flavors and piquant, lemony acidity.  It is a lively and versatile companion suitable for a late spring picnic, pool party, or a Sunday dinner with grilled shellfish.  The first wine grapevines were planted in Eden Valley in South Australia by Joseph Gilbert in 1847.  Over time, the property fell into disuse, but that changed in 1970 when the Hill-Smith family of Yalumba Winery purchased the vineyard and reestablished it using plantings propagated from the original vines.  Although Eden Valley is within the broader Barossa Valley — famous for big, bold reds — its elevation is higher than Barossa, therefore, cooler with a longer growing season.    This vintage is the first to achieve the qualifications to display the Sustainable Winegrowing seal of approval.     
92 Rebecca Murphy May 30, 2023

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling 2016 ($20, Negociants USA):  The Eden Valley of South Australia, with its higher elevation and spare soils, has proven to be an exceptional site for producing fine Rieslings.  Pewsey Vale has long been a star producer from the High Eden and they continue their success with the exemplary 2016 bottling.  This is a lovely and complex dry Riesling.  The bouquet is forward and enticing with a striking floral component and an array of lime, tangerine, green and red apple fruit aromas.  It is clean, fresh and dry on the palate, with layers of fruit underlain by a rich texture and the intriguing floral and spice hints that linger at the finish.  Delicious now, Pewsey Vale Rieslings can age beautifully for a decade or more when properly cellared. 92 Wayne Belding Oct 24, 2017

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (South Australia, Australia) Dry Riesling 2009 ($18, Negociants, USA):  This delicious, highly wine is light in body but very generous in aroma and flavor, with fruit recalling crisp green apples that have been dressed with a spritz of lemon and lime.  Subtle scents of dried flowers and herbs get it off to a great start, and a pleasant mineral tinge provides an interesting accent to the finish. 92 Michael Franz Jan 25, 2011

Peter Lehmann, Eden Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2008 ($16, The Hess Collection): A sheer delight to sip, whether on its own or paired with light to medium-weight dishes, this bright Riesling dazzles the senses.  It offers bright citrus (especially lime) flavors with echoes of tropical fruit and steely undertones, and is wonderfully balanced with not so much acid as to seem tart, but not so little as to be sappy.  I would guess that it will become more nuanced with time in bottle, but the wine is so delicious now that I'd also be hard pressed to wait to find out. 91 Paul Lukacs Feb 3, 2009

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling 2013 ($15, Negociants USA): This is a lovely and complex dry Riesling from a superb estate in South Australia.  The bouquet is forward and enticing with an array of lime, tangerine, green and red apple fruit aromas followed by hints of fresh white flowers and subtle spices.  Fresh, clean and dry on the palate, its layers of fruit are underlain by a rich texture and the intriguing floral and spice hints that linger at the finish.  It’s a lovely choice for Riesling lovers who seek the best New World examples of this great grape.  Delicious now, Pewsey Vale Rieslings can age beautifully for a decade or more when properly cellared.
91 Wayne Belding Jun 10, 2014

Penfolds, Eden Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “Bin 51” 2006 ($20, FWE Imports): A notable step up from the Thomas Hyland Riesling, especially if you are a connoisseur of this particular varietal, this wine exhibits more defined, linear flavors and a firmer backbone, marking it as a good candidate for cellaring as well as enjoying in the near term.  Lime and apple fruit dominate the initial impression, but the fruit is soon followed by noticeable minerality, and the finish proves exceptionally long. 90 Paul Lukacs Oct 16, 2007

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2007 ($16, Negociants, USA): This is a superb dry Riesling, and an outright steal for $16.  Experience indicates that this wine will actually improve for a full decade, and yet it is already quite delicious, with a lightly floral aroma leading into a crisp and refreshing flavor of golden apples and fresh limes.  Although essentially dry, there's some breadth on the palate and a mineral tinge that lends complexity.  And though the abundant acidity keeps the finish fresh and invigorating, there's nothing tart or sour about the wine.  Winning stuff, and a great value. 90 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2007

Glen Eldon, Eden Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005 ($17, Epicurean Wines): This delicious, dry Riesling offers crisp, green apple fruit accented with prominent mineral notes. Although light in body, the wine is deeply flavored, with interesting interplay between the substantial flavor notes and the cutting acidity that enlivens the finish. 89 Michael Franz Apr 4, 2006

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (South Australia, Australia) Pinot Gris 2007 ($20, Negociants, USA): I think of Pewsey Vale as a famous Riesling producer, and the current release Riesling justifies that notion, but this is a very convincing Pinot Gris.  It avoids the ponderous heaviness and overt sweetness of many Alsace examples, and the blandness of many renditions from Oregon, and also avoids the watery, innocuous style that dominates Italian Pinot Grigios.  This wine is medium-bodied, and in this respect is closer to Oregon's versions than those from Alsace or Italy.  It shows some ripe peach and baked apple fruit, but also a vaguely smoky character that often shows up in examples from Alsace.  Yet the excellent acidity is most akin to Italian Grigios.  So, this is perhaps a long way of saying that Pewsey Vale has managed to capture the best of what the rest of the world does with Pinot Gris, while avoiding the pitfalls. 89 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2007

Peter Lehmann, Eden Valley (Australia) Riesling 2008 ($16, Hess Collection): There's quite a bit to like about this vintage of Peter Lehmann's Eden Valley Riesling, particularly the modest price. This amounts to a remarkable value for a wine that will improve in the bottle over the next 10-15 years. Peter Lehmann Rieslings age beautifully. This one delivers gorgeous aromas of fresh lime, pear and intense minerality, with vivid flavors on the palate and outstanding length. My only concern is the slightly soft acidity. But if you're planning on consuming it anytime soon, no worries mate, as the Aussies might say. 88 Robert Whitley Apr 28, 2009

Yalumba, Eden Valley (South Australia, Australia) Viognier “The Virgilius” 2005 ($42, Necogiants USA): Sumptuous on the palate, with a lush texture and opulent flavors that suggest ripe summer fruits as well as sweet spice (ginger and more), this barrel-aged wine is delicious to drink.  It does not display, though, as much of Viognier's succulent and seductive honeysuckle bouquet as other renditions (including Yalumba's much less expensive 'Y Series' Viognier). 88 Paul Lukacs May 8, 2007

Blackbilly, Fleurieu (McLaren Vale, Australia) Pinot Gris 2005 ($15, The Australian Premium Wine Collection):

Because Pinot Gris is made in a number of styles, from dry to off-dry to sweet, it's sometimes difficult to know what you're getting when you pick up a bottle. Blackbilly is bone dry, expressive on the nose but crisp and steely on the palate, with aromas and flavors of white flower and lime, with excellent minerality. This wine is meant to be consumed young, either as an aperitif or with steamed clams or raw oysters.

Black Billy, Fleurieu Peninsula (South Australia) Pinot Gris 2006 ($15, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): One of the members of the Hazelgrove family, a famous farming family, has re-established themselves in the wine business after the family sold the name. The lovely texture and viscosity of this wine makes it definitely a Pinot Gris, not a Pinot Grigio.  It has ripe flavors with nuances of pears, but no heaviness. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2007

Bleasdale, Langhorne Creek (South Australia, Australia) Verdelho 2007 ($16, Southern Starz): This rather obscure grape has a notable following in Australia, and this bottling will demonstrate why that is the case.  Medium-bodied, with very crisp acidity and good depth of flavor, it features fruit reminiscent of white melon and white peach. 89 Michael Franz Mar 11, 2008

Bleasdale, Langhorne Creek (South Australia, Australia) Verdelho “Potts’ Catch” 2008 ($12, Southern Starz): Verdelho is historically associated most closely with wines from the Portuguese island of Madeira, but it has also found a home as a source of quite successful table wines in Australia.  This bottling is straightforwardly delicious and very useful, as it is medium-bodied and full of flavor, but free of oak and very well balanced in structure.  Fruit notes of melons and pears are very pleasant without being obvious, and you can pair this (rather like an excellent Pinot Blanc) with almost anything appropriate for partnering with white wine. 88 Michael Franz Sep 29, 2009

Pike & Joyce, Lenswood (Adelaide Hills, South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($20, Australian Premium Wine Collection): If there were such a thing as a Meyer lime, this is how it would taste.  Floral and limey, but not aggressive or grassy, it develops a lovely minerality with air that is reminiscent of the best wines from Sancerre.  It is light, airy and lacey.  About 3% of the wine was aged in small oak casks, which adds a mouth filling texture without a trace of oakiness. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Roussanne “The Money Spider” 2006 ($25, Old Bridge Cellars):  Nobody could blame you for passing on this wine if you encountered it in a retail store, since one could reasonably conclude that a white wine from the 2006 vintage must be long past its prime.  However, this vintage is the current release in the USA, and the wine is among the most complex and compelling whites that I’ve tasted all year.  Traditionally associated with France’s Rhône Valley, Roussanne is a variety that can make wonderful wine if grown and vinified carefully and given sufficient time in bottle, and that’s exactly what we’ve got in this case.  The aromas recall straw, autumn flowers and delicate herbs, and the flavors follow suit but layer on notes of white melon and baked apple.  A screw cap closure has minimized oxidation, making it possible that the wine will get even better with additional cellaring.  Bloody impressive stuff. 92 Michael Franz Oct 15, 2013

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Roussanne "The Money Spider" 2004 ($22, Old Bridge Cellars): If you like Rhône white wines, you're going to love this bottling. The name comes from a tiny arachnid known as the Money Spider, which is in turn named according to a popular belief is that those who are kind to these tiny creatures are rewarded with money. When the spiders moved from the vineyards to the surrounding bushland in 2001, d'Arenberg made their first The Money Spider Roussanne. Quite distinct from the Marsanne-Viognier, the aroma of this wine recalls almonds, honeysuckle and citrus, while the flavors are rich and textured, with hints of white peaches and roasted nuts. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Riesling "The Dry Dam" 2004 ($16, Old Bridge Cellars): The genesis of this wine dates back to the 1950s when d'Arry Osborn made d'Arenberg's first white wine from a Riesling block that backed up to a neighbor's dam. A dry summer day in South Australia always meant a dry dam, resulting in a concentrated Riesling. Lovely floral and citrus scents dominate the nose. The flavors are faintly tropical, with bracing acidity and just a hint of petrol in the finish. Although Australia touts its best Rieslings as coming from Eden Valley and Clare Valley, this McLaren Vale entry is a top contender. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Viognier/Marsanne "The Hermit Crab" 2004 ($16, Old Bridge Cellars): The name for this delightful Rhône-style white blend originates in the vineyard sub-soils. Beneath the topsoil of d'Arenberg's vineyards is a seam of limestone, formed by the calcareous remains of shellfish like the Hermit Crab. Since the blend goes nicely with shell fish and seafood, the Osborns gave the nod to the Hermit Crab. Forward and fragrant, the aroma of this wine is a whole market basket of fresh fruits like peach, tangerine and guava. The fruity flavors are big, textural and fleshy, but the whole package is balanced nicely with bracing acidity. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

Yangarra, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Viognier 2009 ($29, Sovereign Wine Imports):  The Yangarra Viognier was made using the same techniques as the Roussanne, but here the wine has distinguishable varietal character, fresh fruit flavors and good length.  There’s a brilliant medium gold color, deeply set stone fruit aromatics, excellent texture and fruit, leading to a dry finish at 13% alcohol and good length.  The one factor that has kept Viognier from becoming a major player in the U.S. market is high price and this appealing wine is another example. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 8, 2011

Coriole Vineyards, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Chenin Blanc 2010 ($13, The Country Vintner):  Bright and vibrant, tasting of apples and pears with a lemony kick in the finish, this dry Chenin Blanc will make for delectable aperitif sipping.  Though it lacks the minerality that distinguishes great Chenins from France’s Loire Valley, it more than compensates with its vivacious fruit.  And because, much like its French cousins, it displays plenty of crisp acidity, it tastes supremely refreshing. 89 Paul Lukacs Apr 12, 2011

D’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Riesling “The Stump Jump” 2008 ($12, Old Bridge Cellars):  D’Arenberg’s “Stump Jump” wines offers consistently fine value, and this Riesling simply adds to what already is an impressive line-up.  Dry but filled with bright fruit flavor (primarily echoing limes, lemons, and tart apples), it exhibits a hint of earthy complexity in both the bouquet and finish.  With plenty of acidity for balance, it should age effortlessly for at least a few more years. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 15, 2011

d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Viognier-Marsanne “The Hermit Crab” 2010 ($16, Old Bridge Cellars):  Chester Osborne is a big personality making big wines in the McLaren Vale region of South Australia.  As you might expect, McLaren Vale is a warm region, but it does get cooling winds from the Gulf of Saint Vincent that moderate the temperatures, so the wines have freshness.  The Hermit Crab is a blend of a bit more than two-thirds Viognier and one-third Marsanne with 95 percent of the grapes from McLaren Vale and five percent from the Adelaide Hill, a beautiful green area also in South Australia that gets downright chilly.  The wine has Viognier’s enticing perfumed peach, pear and orange blossom aromas and fruit with the melon and honeysuckle of Marsanne.   In the mouth the wine is medium-bodied with a pleasing texture vitalized by citrusy acidity. 89 Rebecca Murphy Sep 18, 2012

d'Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Riesling/Sauvignon/Marsanne "The Stump Jump" 2004 ($10, Old Bridge Cellars): This unusual blend is as enticing as the name. The Stump Jump was a special plow, invented in South Australia, that made it easy to jump over the gnarled eucalyptus roots. The aroma of this wine is bright with floral and citrus notes, followed by lively flavors that smack of lime juice and tropical fruit. A thoroughly pleasing drink at a great price. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

Yangarra, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Roussanne “Single Vineyard” 2007 ($24, Sovereign Wine Imports): Very dry, with tight pear and tart apple flavors, this wine is very much a food partner rather than a cocktail sipper.  Its crisp character and firm acidic edge will enable it to complement a wide range of dishes, but at the same time those qualities can make it seem almost austere when tried on its own. 88 Paul Lukacs Oct 28, 2008

Yangarra, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Chardonnay “Un-oaked” 2007 ($15, Sovereign Wine Imports): Very pleasant and quite soft, this is an enjoyable sipping wine that will work equally well as an aperitif and as a food partner.  It offers ripe fruit flavors and a faint nutty undertone, but lacks the steely crispness that characterizes the very best un-wooded Chardonnays these days.  Still, at $15, the price is certainly right. 87 Paul Lukacs Jan 6, 2009

Yangarra, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Roussanne 2009 ($29, Sovereign Wine Imports):  Marsanne and Roussanne are two varieties that never gained as much attention out side the Northern Rhone as Viognier, although Roussanne has attracted some moderate interest.  This 2009 from McLaren Vale was barrel fermented in French oak and remained on the yeast lees for four months.  The color is a medium gold and the nose is closed-in but showing citrus rind and pears.  It has good texture but the flavors are delicate and undistinguished, with 13.5% alcohol and some oak in the finish. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 8, 2011

Philip Shaw, Orange (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc "No. 19" 2005 ($22, Cumulus Wines): Philip Shaw, one of Australia's and the world's great winemakers, has finally set off on his own.  After being winemaker at Lindemans, Rosemount and Southcorp, he has finally established his own winery in Orange.  I assumed his wines would be good, but I never expected this Sauvignon Blanc to have such a stunning combination of subtle creaminess and an invigorating bite. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006

Grosset, Polish Hill (Clare Valley, South Australia) Riesling 2006 ($33, Australian Premium Wine Collection): Wow.  Anyone who doesn't yet realize that Australia is capable of producing great Rieslings, among the best in the world, needs to taste this wine.  Bright, vibrant and steely, this focused wine almost vibrates. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007

Unico Zelo, Riverland (South Australia) Fiano "Jade & Jasper" 2018 ($23, Epicurean Wines):  Unico Zelo is a playful Australian winery, making fun, reasonably-priced wines from mostly traditional Italian varieties.  Their 2018 Jade & Jasper Fiano is a prime example.  In the glass, the wine is filled with aromas of yellow apple, green pear, and this enigmatic earthy-autumn leaf note.  In the mouth, the wine is bright and crunchy at first, with crisp yellow apply flavors abounding next to a touch of lemon.  A creaminess follows the fruit with a touch of phenolic bitterness.  A fun wine on its own or with food!      
91 John McDermott Nov 14, 2023

Wakefield / Taylors, South Australia (Australia) Unwooded Chardonnay Promised Land 2014 ($10, Hess): I've taken some grief for scoring wines in this price range at this level, but when a wine of this quality pops itself up in a blind tasting and has agreement from a panel of judges, and it hits my markers, I'm happy to stand by it.  This is a refreshing wine with a bright nose of flowers, lemon, apple and a little guava, followed by a palate that's silky on entry, delivers the aromas as flavors, and finishes long and zesty.  More wines of this quality at this price would be welcome!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Mar 24, 2015

Wakefield, South Australia (Australia) Riesling “Jaraman” 2005 ($27, Brown Forman): Two-thirds of the fruit for this wine comes from Clare Valley and one third from the Eden Valley, but US labeling requirements prohibit dual appellations, so the wine is labeled simply South Australia.  The Clare Valley produces more overt Rieslings, while Eden Valley Rieslings are known for their finesse and precision.  Wakefield's blend, common among Oz producers, results in a gorgeously balanced wine filled with minerality and finished with a cleansing citric edge.  Bone dry, it has extraordinary balance and length and shows the potential of Aussie Riesling. 93 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007

Yalumba, South Australia (Australia) Viognier “The Y Series” 2014 ($12, Negociants USA): Chock-full of juicy summer fruits (peaches, nectarines), this beautiful full- bodied and fragrant wine hits just the right balance between simplicity and opulence.  It is certainly fairly priced, and in fact it outshines a many of the higher priced Viogniers I’ve sampled recently.
92 Marguerite Thomas May 3, 2016

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) “Bin 51” 2008 ($20, FWE Imports): This delicious Riesling is a very nice example of how good this variety can be from South Australia's Eden Valley, a relatively cool region adjacent to the Barossa Valley.  It shows light floral aromas and notes of baked apples and white peaches, along with a citrus edge in the finish.  Although this is certainly ready to enjoy now, it is likely to develop interestingly for another decade. 90 Michael Franz Jun 16, 2009

The Black Chook, South Australia (Australia) “VMR” 2007 ($18, Epicurean): A blend of 80% Viognier and 10% each Marsanne and Roussanne, this is probably the best rendition of a white Rhône style wine that I've ever tasted from Australia.  Very expressive and actually almost dramatic in aroma, it shows heady floral scents, with a strong note of honeysuckle but several other nuances as well.  The palate is quite rich and full-bodied, with deep flavors recalling peaches.  Although the lead notes stem from the Viognier component, the Marsanne and Roussanne are fully expressed as well in this very impressive wine. 90 Michael Franz Feb 19, 2008

Wakefield, South Australia (Australia) Riesling "Jaraman" 2005 ($30, Brown Forman): I don't know if dry Australian Rieslings are getting better or if I'm just tasting (and enjoying) more of them, but the wines can be delightful.  At their best, and this wine is certainly in that category, they exhibit a purity of citrus fruit that seems unmatched by Rieslings elsewhere.  This wine does not display the sort of minerality that characterizes the best dry European versions (from Alsace, Austria, or the Pfaltz in Germany), but it makes up for that with its incredibly focused and precise fruit flavors.  In addition, it has beautiful balance and harmony, and so should age well for many years.  Impressive. 90 Paul Lukacs Jan 2, 2007

Yalumba, South Australia (Australia) Viognier “The Y Series” Vegan 2021 ($15, Winebow):  In business since 1849, Yalumba is a big, family-owned winery that continues to surprise.  Though billed as “a lighter version” by comparison to Yalumba’s other bottlings, this Viognier is by no means a lightweight.  As part of the Y Series, it is made with minimal winemaker intervention and 100% wild yeast fermentation.  Light yellow in color, it showcases Viognier’s honeysuckle and jasmine aromas in a fresh style.  On the palate, it is fairly full bodied and slightly creamy in mouthfeel.  Citrus, anise and a light touch of ginger dominate the flavors.  It finishes clean with decent length.  It strikes me as a solid introduction to Viognier, which Yalumba has done more to champion than any other winery in Australia, and one that can be enjoyed with a variety of food.     
90 Norm Roby Feb 21, 2023

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Riesling "Thomas Hyland" 2007 ($15, Fosters Wine Estates): There aren't many wines of this quality out there for $15.  This Riesling, from the highly esteemed Penfolds people, is a lacy network of texture and flavor, with a beguiling perfume of pears, fresh lime peel perhaps, and bouquets of spring flowers.   It exhibits all the freshness and engaging personality that a well-made Riesling should have. 89 Marguerite Thomas Dec 11, 2007

Robert Oatley, South Australia (Australia) Pinot Grigio 2009 ($16, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  Past vintages of Robert Oatley Pinot Grigio have sometimes struck me as the Kate Moss interpretation of Pinot Grigio:  Pale, radically lean, and not terribly expressive.  I know that this is a style that many people like in both wine and fashion models, but it doesn’t thrill me in either.  This current Robert Oately, by contrast, is quite enjoyable.  It reflects the warm, gray-pink color often associated with this grape (Gris means “gray”), and has just enough flesh and flavor to be interesting while still retaining the spare, sinewy character that makes Pinot Gris so refreshing. 89 Marguerite Thomas Feb 15, 2011

Wakefield / Taylors, South Australia (Australia) Riesling Promised Land 2013 ($13): The Promised Land Rieslings tend to be on the softer, rounder side, with no sharp edges. This platinum medal-winner from Winemaker Challenge V is true to form. It's all about stone fruits, fresh limes and minerality. Excellent value! 89 Robert Whitley Jan 28, 2014

Jacob's Creek, South Australia (Australia) Riesling Reserve 2004 ($15, Pernod Ricard): Think that a white wine priced in the mid-teens from the southern hemisphere must be washed up by this point? Think again! This wine is just hitting its stride, as it shows very intense, focused lemon/lime and green apple fruit that ripples with crisp acidity and linear thrust. It is delicate enough to sip as a cocktail or go with almost anything on the lighter end of the food spectrum, but has sufficient structure and depth of flavor hang in with most dishes running up to the range of lobster or chicken. 88 Michael Franz Apr 11, 2006

Jim Barry Wines, South Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon “Silly Mid On” 2006 ($17, Necogiants USA): Comprised of 78% Sauvignon Blanc sourced from the Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills and Semillon from Clare, this is a medium-bodied winner with great versatility for the table.  It is light and crisp enough to pair up nicely with fresh oysters, but also sufficiently substantial to work with finfish dishes or chicken. 88 Michael Franz May 8, 2007

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Chardonnay “Koonunga Hill" 2009 ($12, FWE Imports):  An always-reliable choice in value-priced Chardonnay, the 2009 Koonunga Hill from Penfolds tastes of lemon curd and pineapple, with just a hint of vanilla and spice in the finish.  Unlike many Chardonnays in this price range, there’s plenty of acidity to make the wine refreshing to sip. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 31, 2010

Robert Oatley, South Australia (Australia) Pinot Grigio 2008 ($18, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  The grapes for this muted Pinot Grigio came from the intriguingly-named Currency Creek in South Australia.  Pinot Grigio always impressed me as smelling like ginger ale and this tank-fermented version has that character in spades. The aromas are muted with ginger notes and the flavors are dry, fruity, 13.5% alcohol and a short, tart finish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 3, 2009

Robert Oatley, South Australia (Australia) Pinot Grigio 2008 ($18, Oatley Wines): Those of you who are weary of the thin, watery plonk that passes for New World Pinot Grigio these days might reconsider the genre after tasting Oatley's expression of this popular grape variety. Intense citrus notes with a hint of grassiness and minerality make this a lovely quaffer that also has the stuffing to stand up to shellfish and light appetizers. 88 Robert Whitley Oct 14, 2008

Wakefield, South Australia (Australia) Riesling “Promised Land” 2011 ($12, American Wine Distributors):  When the Taylor family planted their original vineyard in the 1960s, it was referred to as the “promised land” because of the “promise” of its rich fertile soils.  The light gold color leads to aromas of limes and green plums.  The flavors are zesty with hints of tropical fruits and citrus rind.  It has a dry finish, bracing acidity, 12.5% alcohol and medium fruit. This tank fermented Riesling was made intentionally dry and that it is. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 10, 2012

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Riesling "Yellow Label" 2006 ($13, Fosters Wine Estates): For the money the Wolf Blass Yellow Label is as consistently good as any Riesling you will find at this price point. It always shows fresh lemon/lime character, crisp acidity and generally excellent balance. This is a wine that is produced in large volumes, but quality is always high and 2006 is no exception. A great bang for the buck. 88 Robert Whitley Nov 14, 2006

Woop Woop, South Australia (Australia) Verdelho "V" 2006 ($12, Epicurean Wines): A Portugese grape, used (under the name of Gouveio) in the Duoro for white port and in Madeira, Verdelho is also cultivated successfully in Australia.  Down Under, it yields wines with bright, tangy citrus flavors, firm acidity, and a full, fleshy texture.  This reasonably-priced offering is fresh and lively, perfect for springtime sipping. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 27, 2007

Milton Park, South Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2005 ($12, Kysela): This is a serious contender in the global sweepstakes to offer serious Chardonnay at the $12 price point. The challenge is to offer real substance, depth and complexity without going gooey and lactic or showing lots of obvious, chippy oak trickery. In my view, this bottling gets the equation just right, with ample body and deep tropical and ripe pear fruit that is accented with just a little whiff of butter and toast. This is a bargain, but also a very well made wine regardless of price. 87 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2006

Robert Oatley, South Australia (Australia) Pinot Grigio 2008 ($18, Oatley Wines Inc.):

Pinot Grigio from Down Under?  In the increasingly global wine market, why not?  The wine tastes crisp and slightly tart, just like northern Italian Pinot Grigios.  It’s a bit fuller on the palate, but it’s not at all heavy or clunky.  And despite what must be fairly hot growing conditions, it finishes clean and fresh.

Wolf Blass, South Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($12, FWE Imports): Bright lime and other citrus flavors dominate in this dry but in no sense austere Riesling.  The wine is fuller-bodied than many renditions of this varietal, so will not be overpowered by fairly hearty fare.  Chinese takeout anyone? 87 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Yalumba, South Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($11, Necogiants USA): Springtime in a bottle.  This wine offers lots of refreshment and fun for eleven bucks, with nice floral aromas leading into a palate that offers notes of mango and baked apple.  There's plenty of citric acidity in the finish to freshen and structure the finish, which is clean and well focused. 86 Michael Franz Mar 27, 2007

Stonehaven Vineyards, South Australia (Australia) Chardonnay "Winemaker's Selection" 2004 ($10, Excelsior Wine & Spirits): This mid-level Chardonnay has a pale green-gold color, buttery-spicy nose with citrus notes, crisp acidity and medium fruit.  Aging in French oak for eight months adds a level of complexity, spice and vanilla. 85 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 7, 2006

Tamar Ridge, Tasmania (Australia) Riesling 2005 ($20, Robert Whale Selections): Exceptionally European for a New World Riesling, this beauty from the cool climate of Tasmania is a stunning example of the deft hand many Aussie winemakers have with this grape variety. The minerality on the nose is very appealing and will recall memories of outstanding dry Rieslings from Alsace, and the depth and structure are similarly familiar. This wine won a gold medal and was a contender for Best of Show white wine at the 2006 San Diego International Wine Competition. 93 Robert Whitley Apr 26, 2006

Grosset, Watervale (Clare Valley, Australia) Riesling 2006 ($29, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Rieslings from the Watervale district of the Clare tend to have a little more fat and a slightly oily texture and juiciness that is absent in the cooler corners of the region.  These are my "drink now" dry Rieslings from this part of the world, though I have no doubt Grosset's Watervale would evolve very nicely if I chose to lay it down for a few years. This vintage shows firm acidity and a fresh, juicy lime character that is typical, with a hint of minerality that will reveal itself to an even greater extent with a bit of age. 92 Robert Whitley Nov 21, 2006

Kilikanoon, Watervale (Clare Valley, South Australia) Riesling “Mort’s Block” 2009 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  At more than three years of age, this wine remains tightly coiled and poised for at least a decade of developmental improvement.  Aromas and flavors of green apple and citrus are already alluring, and the uncompromisingly dry finish is long and mouth watering, with waves of steely acidity that provide the wine with remarkable linear drive.  I’ve tasted Rieslings from South Australia’s Clare Valley that were still unbelievably fresh after 20 years, and much more complex thanks to long ageing, and this is almost sure to fit that description someday--if you can manage to keep your hands off of it for long enough. 92 Michael Franz Nov 13, 2012

Reillys, Watervale (Clare Valley, South Australia) Riesling “Barking Mad” 2008 ($13, Southern Starz):

Nobody would blame you if you were dismissive of Australian wines with amusing names and critters on the label, but in this instance you’d be missing out on a very good wine at a very attractive price.  This shows notes of baked apple with a light floral topnote and plenty of fresh acidity in the finish to counterbalance the wine’s faint hint of sweetness.

Kilikanoon, Watervale (Clare Valley, South Australia) Riesling Mort’s Block 2008 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Surprisingly restrained, with bright citrus (especially lime) fruit flavors and a steely finish, but without the zing of acidity that seems to characterize many Clare valley Rieslings.  Its somewhat muted personality means that it’s certainly ready to drink now, but perhaps (unlike many Aussie renditions of the varietal) not a string candidate for cellaring. 87 Paul Lukacs Aug 4, 2009

Southeastern Australia:

Red:

Peter Lehmann, Barossa (Southeastern Australia) Shiraz 2003 ($16, Hess Collection New World Wines): Although the Peter Lehmann Shiraz isn't shy on the fruit, it's balance and harmonious compatibility with simple grilled meats and spicy sausages aren't typical of the Barossa. A hint of mint and licorice against a rich black-fruit backdrop add just the right touch of spice to this inexpensive yet complex Shiraz from one of the Barossa's top producers. 89 Robert Whitley Apr 4, 2006

Grant Burge, Barossa Valley (Southeastern Australia) The Holy Trinity 2001 ($50, Wilson Daniels): Grant Burge produces more expensive reds, but none better than the blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre that he's dubbed The Holy Trinity. This Rhone-style blend is a heady example of all that is good -- nay, even great -- about the Barossa Valley. The brightness of the fruit, the viscous texture in the mouth, the exceptional length, depth and persistence of flavor are all hallmarks of a great Barossa red. In the Holy Trinity the sweet red fruit of the Grenache dominates for a time, giving way to the blueberry and spice of the Shiraz as the wine comes into contact with air and its complexities emerge. This beautifully structured wine should age well and reward your patience if you decide to cellar it. By all means, decant to enjoy it to the max if you decide to drink it young. 95 Robert Whitley Feb 14, 2006

Grant Burge, Barossa Valley (Southeastern Australia) Shiraz Filsell 2003 ($30, Wilson Daniels): Fans of big-shouldered, ultra-ripe Aussie shiraz will snap up Burge's Filsell in a hurry. This vineyard-designated Shiraz from the famed Barossa Valley is powerful, complex and very ripe, showing smooth, sweet tannins and exceptional length and persistence on the palate. With jammy flavors of currant, blackberry and raspberry kissed with a touch of sweet oak, this is the sort of Shiraz that screams Aussie sunshine! Serve it with a rare filet mignon and you'll be in Aussie heaven. 91 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2005

Pikes, Clare Valley (Australia) Shiraz "EWP" Reserve 2002 ($57, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Neil Pike's father is Edgar Walter, so there you have it, Edgar Walter Pike, or EWP. This very special Shiraz comes from a designated section of the Gill's Farm vineyard block. It's a huge, powerful, almost jammy Shiraz that is softened somewhat by the addition of Viognier to the blend. It has exactly what I'm looking for in a huge Aussie Shiraz -- remarkable complexity, amazing layers of aroma and flavor, oustanding persistence and fruit purity (blackberry and raspberry) unblemished by the overwhelming influence of too much oak. Despite the abundance of firm tannins, Pikes' EWP is supple enough to drink now. 96 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2005

Annie's Lane, Clare Valley (Southeastern Australia) Shiraz Grenache Mourvedre "Coppertrail" 2001 ($20, Beringer Blass Wine Estates): Firmer in the mouth and a bit less generous than some previous vintages, the Annie's Lane SGM is a good effort nonetheless. The bright red-fruit character of the Grenache shines through, and the tight structure and firm tannin of the Shiraz bode well for the future evolution of this wine. Though not as approachable as you might expect from the producer and the region, this is a red Rhone blend that has some depth and will be best in a couple of years. 89 Robert Whitley Jan 31, 2006

Joseph, Clarendon (Australia) Shiraz "Angel Gully" 2003 ($48, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Some would argue that this Shiraz, grown at the highest elevation in the Adelaide Plains, should be classified McLaren Vale instead of Clarendon, but that's not what's important. This is an Aussie red that espouses European elegance, the exact opposite of the many highly extracted, high alcohol wines that are the fashion. This doesn't mean it lacks flavor. Far from it, the flavors in the mouth are long and the lively acidity promises to keep them fresh for years to come. A lovely earthiness on the nose is but the begiining of the sensory experience. Beautiful shiraz, but not typical of the Aussie genre. 92 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2005

McWilliams, Coonawarra (Southeastern Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Brand's Liara Vineyards 2001 ($25, McWilliams of Australia): The current releases from McWilliams are hard to assess as a group. The more commercial releases (Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet, all from 2004 and showing an appellation of South Eastern Australia) are, well, appalling. They are not technically flawed, but are so sugary that I find them downright undrinkableand quite conspicuous even in a marketplace that wants very ripe wines. Nevertheless, this higher-end Cabernet is just as clearly an outstanding wine in an exemplary style at a great price. Go figure. In any case, this features a wonderful cool climate Cab combination of intense black fruit notes with bright acidity and a fresh, lifted profile that will work with a great many foods (even lighter ones like pork or veal), Yet, this has the guts to handle any steak, and is thus as versatile as it is delicious. 90 Michael Franz Dec 16, 2005

Stonehaven Vineyards, Limestone Coast (Southeastern Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($13, Excelsior Wine & Spirits):

This 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon is deeply colored and showing the flavor intensity drawn from the terra rossa soils.  Ripe blackberries, sweet spices like cloves and a subtle earthy note define the aromatics, while the richly textured flavors are supported by more angular firm tannins with good fruit.  This is a lovely cabernet with a fine blend of ripe berries and herbal notes.

Stonehaven Vineyards, Limestone Coast (Southeastern Australia) Shiraz 2003 ($13, Excelsior Wine & Spirits):

Characteristic Padthaway Shiraz accents of anise, dark berries and eucalyptus identify this value Shiraz.  The color is deep and inky, the nose redolent with black raspberry and menthol (eucalyptus), while the textured concentrated flavor has hints of ripe berries and chocolate.  The acidity is brisk and the wine finishes with plenty of fruit. Serve with a roast of lamb and rosemary.

Angoves, McLaren Vale (Southeastern Australia) Shiraz 'Vineyard Select' 2005 ($19): Angoves eschews the conventions when making its McLaren Vale Shiraz, striving for elegance and balance rather than power and tongue-coating thickness. The '05 shows exceptional restraint, with lovely red fruits complemented by a hint of minty eucalyptus and spice, all supported by firm tannins and the subtle presence of oak. 90 Robert Whitley Feb 10, 2009

Insurrection, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($16): Australia continues to over-deliver when it comes to quality versus price. The Insurrection shiraz-cab blend is a richly layered red that offers aromas of ripe blueberry and red currant, with a big dollop of oak spice and that telltale Aussie note of eucalyptus. A platinum award-winner at the San Diego International Wine Challenge.
92 Robert Whitley May 31, 2016

Jacob's Creek, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Grenache Shiraz 2005 ($8, Pernod Ricard USA): Here's a summer sipper, or a great inexpensive light fruity red for al fresco meals. It smells of wild strawberries with a hint of cranberry. The bright strawberry flavors, from 60 percent Grenache, are forward and inviting, while the 40 percent Shiraz gives the wine structure. It's loaded with fruit and easy to drink, so why isn't this drink-now wine under screw cap? 92 Gerald D. Boyd May 16, 2006

Bulletin Place, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2017 ($15, Vineyard Brands): This Aussie crowd pleaser impresses with its charming, churning maelstrom of cherry and raspberry flavors.  This is a big wine to be sure, but thanks to its glossy texture and soft finish this Shiraz never seems overpowering.  It’s a fitting accompaniment to any number of dishes, from burgers to brisket, from lamb to lentils.  
90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 8, 2019

Penfolds, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Koonunga Hill" 2002 ($12, PWG Vintners): The wines in this Koonunga Hill line are impressively individuated, with each bottling showing very clear varietal character. Even the blended wines (Shiraz/Cabernet 2002 and Cabernet/Merlot 2003) show their component varieties clearly. This Cabernet is surprisingly uncompromising in this regard, showing seriously intense black fruit character with even a slightly hard and angular side. It is very hard to find anybody making $12 reds that really would benefit from ageing or pairing with food, but that is clearly true with this wine. It is an exemplar in its price category, and a very worthy wine quite regardless of price. 89 Michael Franz Dec 6, 2005

Stonehaven Vineyards, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($6, Excelsior Wine & Spirits): This blend of 51percent Shiraz and 49 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, is sourced from vineyards in Australia's vast South Eastern Australia appellation. The result is a medium-bodied red wine with noticeable blackberry and spice flavors, firm tannins, a curious hint of road tar and medium complexity through the finish. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 7, 2006

Bulletin Place, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($10, Vineyard Brands): There are a lot of places for light and unemotional wines such as this. I can imagine sipping it on the deck, or at a beach party or picnic. At this price it’s a good wine for a gathering of friends and family -- it would be a pleasant pour with burgers or hot dogs, meatballs or pizza. Although it’s not very complex, it does have an engaging aroma, and it doesn’t burden the palate with masses of overripe fruit.
88 Marguerite Thomas Apr 9, 2013

Lindemans, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 45” 2008 ($8, FWE Imports): Here's an $8 Cabernet that was awarded a Gold Medal at the San Diego International Wine Competition.  And it deserved it.  Medium- to full-bodied, it shows classic Cabernet fruit notes of blackberry and black cherry, with very light wood influence in the form of subtle vanilla and smoke backnotes.  It isn't terribly complex, but it is very tasty, very well integrated, and has enough guts to stand up to substantial food.  All in all, there's no doubt that this is a wine for the times. 88 Michael Franz Apr 7, 2009

Penfolds, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz/Cabernet "Koonunga Hill" 2002 ($12, PWG Vintgers): This nosed out the very fine Penfolds Shiraz 2003 on grounds of greater dimension and complexity, and while both are clearly excellent at their price levels, this is a great example of Aussie innovation and also of a vinous sum that exceeds its parts. Fruit notes show juicy Syrah notes in the forefront, but also serious backing from dark Cab scents and aromas that lend definition and depth. Wood is notable but well in the background, and the whole package is very well integrated and extremely pleasant. 88 Michael Franz Dec 6, 2005

Ravenswood, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($11, No Wimpy Importers): I must lament the growing trend of mongo wine companies to stamp their brands on wines sourced from different continents, as in this case (and that of the so-called "Greg Norman" wines). The practice has the unfortunate effect of blurring the important fact that wine is--at its best--a beverage that speaks uniquely of place, and not just another drink. Of course, it can be made into just another drink, and I would simply ignore this one if not for the fact that it is an excellent drink at a remarkable price. A great rendition of the Shiraz stereotype for $11, it shows very dark color, intense aromas and flavors of blackberry, black cherry, smoke, spices, and cocoa. I must say, grudgingly or not, that it is a great deal. 88 Michael Franz Dec 6, 2005

Penfolds, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz "Koonunga Hill" 2002 ($12, PWG VIntners): Dark and deeply flavored, but still quite irrepressibly fruity and ripe, this is a wine that tries to be serious but just cant keep a straight face. In structural terms, it is concentrated and penetrating in both aroma and flavor. Neither the aromas nor the flavors are notably serious, as both are bursting with ripe, juicy notes of fresh berries, with just a little edging from oak. Fresh and juicy and full of fun, this is easy at 88, and is arguably even better. 87 Michael Franz Dec 6, 2005

Penfolds, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Koonunga Hill” 2005 ($11, FWE Imports):

How many wines at this price level get appreciably better when given time to breathe?  This was relatively inexpressive upon opening, but after an hour, unfolds to show real depth and a meatiness that is very impressive for a wine at this price point.  Dark berry fruit is backed with a bit of gutsy tannin that never goes bitter or astringent but offers enough backing to stand up to a steak.

Penfolds, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz “Koonunga Hill" 2005 ($11, FWE Imports): Tasty and expressive, but not over-the-top, this delicious wine features fresh berry fruit with hints of both red and black fruits.  There's nothing overt or raisiny; the notes are rather bright and fresh, and the wine is sufficiently mature to muster a bit of pleasantly earthy bottle bouquet as well. 86 Michael Franz Jan 1, 2008

McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Merlot 2007 ($12, McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate): The first thing to note is that this is a very tasty wine that will please most guests and likely offend nobody if you're planning a big party.  The name is rather misleading since the wine isn't sourced from a single estate, and the product is rather odd at its core since the Australian wine industry has next-to-no interest in Merlot, but this is nevertheless a solid product imported and distributed by Gallo.  Ripe, notably sweet berry fruit is accented by subtle wood and a pleasant mocha note. 85 Michael Franz May 26, 2009

Penfolds, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz - Cabernet "Koonunga Hill" 2005 ($11, FWE Imports): Soft and juicy, this isn't as structured as either the varietal Shiraz or the Cabernet in the 'Koonunga Hill' line, but it holds a lot of appeal precisely on account of its tenderness and delicacy.  Both grapes make their presence known in the aromas and flavors of the wine, though the Shiraz clearly takes the lead, with soft red berry notes being especially prominent. 85 Michael Franz Jan 1, 2008

Penfolds, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Merlot "Koonunga Hill" 2005 ($11, FWE Imports): This Merlot is soft and rounded--as Merlot lovers would hope and expect--yet it offers nice depth of flavor for a medium-bodied wine.  Very well balanced and integrated, it is smooth and delicate without seeming gutless, as fine-grained tannins offer a bracing counterpoint to the ripe fruit notes. 85 Michael Franz Jan 1, 2008

Down Under, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($3, Down Under Cellars):  Yes, three dollars.  Let me repeat: three dollars!  There is nothing remotely complex about this wine, but it does display pure red berry flavor in a medium-bodied package.  No oak, no subtle secondary notes, no layered nuances.  But did I mention the price?  Wow! 84 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010

Penfolds, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet - Merlot 2005 ($11, FWE Imports): This is a perfectly nice, but not really compelling by comparison to the other reds in the Penfolds Koonunga Hill line.  Straightforward aromas and flavors of dark berries are augmented with a little whiff of wood and gain structure from some light tannin. 83 Michael Franz Jan 1, 2008

Starlight Ridge, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($15):  This is a fresh and fun Cabernet that makes for a tasty cocktail or a pair for roast chicken or simple beef preps.  The acidity takes a star turn here, keeping the red fruit and bright fall spice flavors popping from start to finish.  Throw in the bargain price, and you’ve got a glass of joy.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.   
94 Rich Cook Jan 28, 2020

Penfolds, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz "St. Henri" 2001 ($39, Southcorp): St. Henri has long been one of Penfolds' top-of-the-line Shiraz bottlings. It's not as complex or as long-lived as the famous Penfolds Grange, but St. Henri does evolve beautifully with a few years in the cellar and it's not a bad drink at the moment, either. Spicy, with great depth, pure fruit and sweet tannins, even at this somewhat hefty price it's a bargain as top-notch Shiraz goes. 91 Robert Whitley Oct 11, 2005

Innocent Bystander, Southeastern Australia (Australia) 2005 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):

This delicious, reasonably priced red is a blend of 97% Shiraz and 3% Viognier.  Quite dark in color, it shows expressive notes of dark berries with accents of fresh flowers, spices, and toasty oak.  The intense flavors never seem overbearing, and the oak and tannin, while notable, are not at all aggressive, as they are nicely tuned to the weight of the fruit.

Yellow Tail, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2017 ($8):   Yellow Tail always delivers a Shiraz that is enjoyable and delicious for a modest price. The 2017 Shiraz has a peppery nose, pretty blueberry and blackberry fruit, and a spicy finish. A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
90 Robert Whitley Jun 5, 2018

Jacob's Creek, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($8):  No one should be shocked that this wine won a Platinum at the recent Critics Challenge. Jacob’s Creek has an impressive track record in wine competitions around the globe, and consistently wins top awards with inexpensive Cabernet and Shiraz. This Cab, like all of the other Jacob’s Creek wines I tasted during the challenge, is beautifully balanced, with true Cab character and smooth tannins.
87 Robert Whitley May 29, 2012

Stonehaven Vineyards, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($6, Excelsior Wine & Spirits): The color is a deep purple plum and the medium aromas are fresh with berry and vanilla notes.  Ripe raspberry flavors, medium tannins and acidity follow through the short finish; basic entry-level Shiraz at a good price. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 7, 2006

Sparkling:

Jacob's Creek, South Eastern Australia (Southern Hemisphere) Moscato 2015 ($8):  Moscato with cheese and tapas on a summer day is an enduring tradition in northern Italy. That experience can be replicated on our shores, but the right sort of moscato is required. It must be intensely floral, light and easy on the palate, not too sweet and clean and refreshing on the palate. That wine would be the Jacob's Creek Moscato from Australia. And it was a platinum award-winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge.
90 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

Wolf Blass, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Sparkling Brut NV ($12, FWE Imports): So many sparkling wines at this price level taste sweet and cloying.  They're unbalanced, heavy, and unpleasant to drink.   Here's a very tasty exception.  Tasting of fresh apple and citrus fruits, with a toasty note in the bouquet, it's harmonious and very satisfying.  Given the price tag, it would be an excellent choice to pour at a party.  (Legitimately brut, it's too dry, however, to serve with wedding cake.) 88 Paul Lukacs Apr 7, 2009

White:

Colab & Bloom, Adelaide Hills (Australia) Pinot Gris 2017 ($20):   New World Pinot Gris typically trends toward lightness, making for easy drinking and immediate gratification. Colab & Green, however, seem to have taken a page from their brethren in the Hunter Valley, where Semillon is released in an austere phases that gives way over time to voluptuousness. I don't know that this Pinot Gris will get there, but it's sure thinking about it. Underneath the appealing minerality that strikes one at first, there is plenty of fruit lurking in the background. While enjoyable now, this wine will show more richness and complexity the next couple of years. At this price, a person could buy a case and drink half now and half in a couple of years. I have no doubt it would be a rewarding experience.   A Platinum award winner at the 2018 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Jan 30, 2018

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Eastern Australia) Semillon 2003 ($10, Hess Collection New World Wines): In its price range this is one of the finest whites you can buy for easy summer sipping. There are two primary styles of Semillon made in Australia: a lean, high acid austere style that is crisp and refreshing when young and delightfully comoplex with age; and a juicy, fruit-forward style that is a bit honied and offeres aromas of yellow fruits. The Peter Lehmann is the latter, a luscious, round, fun wine for summer at a tremendous price. 86 Robert Whitley May 9, 2006

Pikes, Clare Valley (Australia) Viognier Gill's Farm 2004 ($22, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Too often "New World" Viognier is made absent the concept of balance. My favorite Viogniers from the northen Rhone Valley of France, where the grape variety performs at extraordinary levels, do have ripeness and alcohol, but it's all in balance with refreshing acidity. Pikes achieves that here, showing us seductive aromas of peach and honeysuckle, exceptional viscosity and refreshing, balancing acity. Outstanding. 92 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2005

Grant Burge, Eden Valley (Barossa Valley, Australia) Riesling Thorn 2004 ($19, Wilson Daniels): Eden Valley, a valley within a valley, benefits from its elevation, which cools and moderates the temprature and sets Eden Valley apart from the larger Barossa appellation, which is quite hot. This area is second only to the Clare in terms of its ability to produce high class Rieslings. Burge's 2004 Thorn Riesling is full and rich on the palate, shows an evolved minerality on the nose and ripe citrus, with an underpinning of firm acidity. Oh, and it's delicious, too. 90 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2005

Stonehaven Vineyards, Limestone Coast (Southeastern Australia) Chardonnay 2003 ($13, Excelsior Wine & Spirits): The grapes for this wine, grown in terra rossa soil over limestone, give the wine a citrusy tang.  Ripe peaches and roasted nuts are up-front in the aromatics, while the flavors are textured, buttery, with hints of vanilla and lemon peel.  The finish is clean with moderate oak accents. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 7, 2006

La Petite Mort, South Eastern Australia (Australia) “Gentil Qvevri” 2020 ($42, Legend):  As the name alludes to, this wine, a blend of 50% Gewurztraminer and 50% Muscat, is fermented and matured in clay qvevri, a winemaking technique used for thousands of years in Georgia.  With 151 days of skin and lees contact, it is no wonder that this wine has such a complex and potent aroma.  Notes of potpourri — dried flower petals, citrus rind, and herbs — practically leap from the glass.  In the mouth, the wine feels velvety and ephemeral, the Gewurztraminer’s roundness balanced by the acidity of the Muscat.  Pair with herb-crusted chicken or pork.           
93 John McDermott Aug 29, 2023

Penfolds, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Chardonnay “Bin 311” 2019 ($37, Treasury Wine Estates):  I used to be able to keep track of new releases of Penfolds wines more closely than during the past few years, so the superb quality of this wine snuck up on me as an extremely pleasant surprise.  The fruit was assembled from cool climate sites in Tasmania, the Adelaide Hills, and Tumbarumba (a high elevation vineyard in New South Wales).  That adds up to three different states when considering how Australia is federated, and states in Australia are mostly very, very big.  I doubt that any other wine producing nation’s culture could have led to an effort like this, and even within Australia, I’m not sure any company other than Penfolds would still go to the trouble — but thank heavens they did.  This is only a medium-bodied wine in terms of palate weight, but it is extremely expressive in both aroma and flavor, with lots of toasty, spicy, nutty oak driving the aromas, but showing much less wood influence on the palate, with bright acidity providing definition and drive through the finish.   
93 Michael Franz Sep 27, 2022

Franzia, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Chardonnay NV ($17, The Wine Group):  If buying in bulk is your game, this 5-liter package is a nice way to go, and it doesn’t get crazy with the “rich and buttery,” opting for an even hand with solid flavors and keeping the acidity bright, finishing with mouth-watering pop.  When the bottles can’t make the trip, this will fit the bill.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition.  
90 Rich Cook Mar 17, 2020

Lismore Range, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Chardonnay Reserve 2014 ($10, Wine Trees): Whether you’re hosting a big party or simply throwing some chicken on the grill for a family supper, this Chardonnay will fit right into the program.  It is surprisingly good for the price, not overblown or overoaked, nor is it thin and shrill.  With appealing hints of fig and mandarin orange, and a glossy texture, it’s essentially a refreshing, uncomplicated wine -- and that makes it adaptable to a variety of lazy-day summery foods, from sandwiches, salads, and of course grilled or rotisserie chicken.
89 Marguerite Thomas Aug 2, 2016

McWilliam’s, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2008 ($12, McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate):

One of the finest wines I have yet tasted from McWilliam’s, this is a delicious example of Chardonnay.  Full-fleshed but also focused, with excellent balance, it offers just about everything one could ask for from the varietal at a very reasonable price.  Often discounted, it’s a wine that restaurateurs should consider offering by the glass.

Rosemount, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Chardonnay - Semillon 2011 ($7, Treasury Wine Estates): Picnic season isn’t over yet!  Pack up a couple of ham and cheese or tuna sandwiches, tuck a bottle of this Aussie wine into the cooler, and head off with your sweetie to the beach or nearest park.  With its full, fruity flavors backed by enough zing to keep things refreshing, this Chardonnay-Semillon blend is a comforting, good-time wine.  Even the ants will try to figure out a way to get their share of it.
88 Marguerite Thomas Sep 10, 2013

Wyndham Estate, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Chardonnay "Bin 222" 2005 ($9, Pernod-Ricard USA): This widely available Chardonnay has lovely freshness of expression and a crispness on the palate that's welcome in warm weather. The aromas and flavors suggest apple, citrus and peach and they show decent concentration. The barest suggestion of oak comes through as a complexity, not as a drag on the palate. Very well done -- and, a bonus, easy to open in a screwcap. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 25, 2006

McWilliam’s, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($12, McWilliam’s): Virtually dry but not ungenerous, this tasty Riesling shows relatively low acid but still achieves a pleasant balance.   A bit of floral aroma gets it off to a good start, and nice flavors of baked green apple offer the main attraction, with just a little sweetness to flesh out the midpalate. 85 Michael Franz Jan 1, 2008

Rosemount Estate, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Pinot Grigio 2006 ($9, FWE Imports): You might be tempted to dismiss this as an opportunistic wine that deserves to languish on supermarket shelves rather than being enjoyed by true wine lovers, but that would cause you to miss a very nice wine.  Admirably flavorful but still very crisp and fresh, it offers nice apple and citrus notes and surprisingly persistent aftertaste.  Recently re-launched in an attractive new package, this is quite an over-achiever. 84 Michael Franz Feb 27, 2007

Bulletin Place, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Pinot Grigio 2019 ($11):  Fresh lime and good acidity are the features of this superb Pinot Grigio from Australia.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.     
90 Robert Whitley Sep 22, 2020

Hardys, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 'Nottage Hill' 2012 ($13): Hardys' Nottage Hill Chardonnay delivers a huge bang for the buck. The nose offers a floral note, with a hint of lemon oil, which continues on the palate along with fresh, juicy tropical fruit aromas. This is a remarkably tasty Chardonnay for the price.  Platinum award winner at Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
90 Robert Whitley Jul 1, 2014

Jacob's Creek, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Chardonnay Classic 2017 ($8, Pernod Ricard): Jacob's Creek does a remarkable job for the price.  This Chardonnay shows apple and citrus aromas with a touch of wood spice and good balance.  A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
90 Robert Whitley May 29, 2018

Bulletin Place, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Moscato NV ($10, Vineyard Brands):  Bulletin Place Moscato is fun and festive, with a mere 8% alcohol and a light amount of spritz.  It has plenty of sweet peachy /grapey fruitiness but also enough acid lingering in the background to keep the wine in balance. It makes a cheerful aperitif on its own, but when you’re in the mood for more seriousness, try adding a dash of bitters and slice of lemon.  Right now I’m thinking Bulletin Place is a wine made for summer evenings on the porch, but I can also imagine enjoying it sitting by the fire with snow falling outside the window. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jul 24, 2012

Jacob's Creek, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Riesling Reserve 2005 ($13, Pernod-Ricard): It's rather remarkable that Jacob's Creek maintains such consistently high quality on this wine that is produced in large volumes. Yet it displays exceptional characteristics of minerality and ripe citrus with a long, clean finish. 88 Robert Whitley Apr 26, 2006

Jacob's Creek, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Riesling Reserve 2005 ($13, Pernod Ricard): It is rather remarkable that Jacob's Creek maintains such consistently high quality on this wine that is produced in large volumes. Yet this displays exceptional characteristics of minerality and ripe citrus with a long, clean finish. 88 Robert Whitley May 23, 2006

McWilliams Hanwood Estate, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Riesling 2005 ($12, Gallo): There is no doubt Australia produces the finest "New World" Rieslings. From bone dry to slightly off-dry, the Rieslings of Australia typically possess the lovely balance that so many other winegrowing regions find difficult to achieve. The McWilliams is an excellent example of an everyday Aussie Riesling: inexpensive, balanced, inviting and flavorful. This one is high on citrus aromas, with a hint of minerality and clean, crisp acidity. 87 Robert Whitley Jun 20, 2006

Yellow Tail, Southeastern Australia (Australia) Sparkling White Wine NV ($11): Yellow Tail has taken the world wine market by storm with a line of reliable wines at moderate prices.  Now, on the tail of strong varietal sales, comes this new sparkling wine. The blend is unusual, but it works. Semillon, a varietal that does well in Australia but not in export, is combined with Traminer, Viognier and Trebbiano. It's fruity and frothy, with scents of ripe melons, off-dry flavors and ample measures of bright fruit.  This Aussie sparkler is an inexpensive quaffer that will fit with any outdoor meal. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 4, 2007

Tasmania:

Red:

Tamar Ridge, Tasmania (Australia) Pinot Noir "Devil's Corner" 2005 ($18, Robert Whale Selections): Youthful and vibrant, with ripe cherry fruit flavors at the fore, this wine has a smoky, spicy undertone that gains intensity when it is paired with food. Over time, as the fruit mellows, that quality should become even more forceful, giving the wine increased complexity and meriting a higher score. No matter when you drink it, though, Pinot this tasty is hard to find for under $20. 89 Paul Lukacs Oct 31, 2006

Tamar Ridge, Tasmania (Australia) Pinot Noir “Devil’s Corner” 2005 ($15, Robert Whale Selections): This exceptional Pinot Noir offers surprising delicacy and complexity at a great price.  Notes of bing cherries and wild strawberries are fresh and vivid, with nice spice accents and just a little whiff of woodsmoke filling out the bouquet.  Fine-grained tannins contribute structure without drying the finish, which is soft and symmetrical. 89 Michael Franz Apr 3, 2007

Sparkling:

Arras, Tasmania (Australia) Brut, Elite “Cuvée 1601” NV ($30, Accolade Wines):  This delicious bubbly is from the Australian Island of Tasmania.  The blend is primarily Pinot Noir, with Chardonnay and a touch of Pinot Meunier sourced from six areas of the Island.   It displays light golden color with prolific, fine bubbles, complex flavors of citrus, white peach, pear, toasted almonds, a note of brioche.   Made by the Methode Traditionelle, it is crisp and lively in the mouth with a lingering finish.   Arras winemaker Ed Carr moved from England to Australia with his family in the 1960s.  He studied chemistry and microbiology in school and was able to get a job in the lab of a winery that specialized in sparkling wine.  Apparently, he learned his lessons well. He was head of sparkling wines at Penfold’s, then Hardy’s.  In 1995 he created the House of Arras to make sparkling wines with grapes grown on the island of Tasmania.  In 1918 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships for his "contribution to the development and success of the sparkling wine industry.”         
93 Rebecca Murphy Dec 27, 2022

Jansz, Tasmania (Australia) "Premium Cuvée" NV ($30):  The name Jansz pays homage to Tasmania's namesake, the Dutch explorer Abel Janszoon Tasman, who first sighted the island in 1642.  The vineyards are planted in red, free-draining basalt soils on the northeast side of the island in the region commonly referred to as "Sparkling Tasmania."  Here, temperatures are generally cool and are moderated by ocean breezes.  With lovely aromas of lemon zest, French brioche, and nutty nougat, this wine is fresh and delicate on the palate with notes of baked lemon and toasted hazelnuts.     
91 Jessica Dupuy Nov 10, 2020

Jansz, Tasmania (Australia) "Premium Cuvée" NV ($23, Winebow):  Jansz was Tasmania's first sparkling wine to be made according to the traditional method.  It’s packed with deep aromas of chalk dust, white peach, white pear, yellow apple, roast hazelnut, sweet lemon, acacia, grapefruit, green apple pastry, and marzipan.  There is no shortage of depth on the palate, as swells of white and green fruits are propelled by hints of brioche.  It has energetic effervescence and crisp acidity that work nicely with the wine’s creamy finish.     
91 Miranda Franco Apr 4, 2023

Jansz, Tasmania (Australia) "Premium" Rosé Sparkling Wine NV ($27, Winebow):  Jansz is one of the first sparkling wine labels out of Tasmania.  After hand harvesting, all Jansz wines undergo long, cool fermentation and extended aging sur lie to ensure complexity and freshness, which Jansz refers to as “Methode Tasmanoise.”  A blend of 78% Pinot Noir and 22 % Chardonnay, the Jansz Non-Vintage (NV) Premium Rosé has tart, ripe strawberry, raspberry, and bitter apple skin flavors.  This style has fine bubbles and crisp acid that is nicely matched against a small amount of dosage (8 grams per liter), finishing long and zesty.       
90 Miranda Franco Nov 1, 2022

White:

Tamar Ridge Estates, Tasmania (Australia) Riesling 'Devil's Corner' 2008 ($17, Robert Whale Selections):

Dry but not austere, with ripe fruit flavors that echo limes, peaches and more, this easy to enjoy wine proves extremely satisfying because it is so well balanced.  It impresses most in its finish—fruity to be sure, but also tinged with expressive slate or mineral undertones. 

Tamar Ridge, Tasmania (Australia) Riesling 2004 ($20, Robert Whale Selections): The extra year of bottle maturation has given this Riesling a whiff of toasted bread with honey. There is plenty of floral-citrus fruit, mineral notes, very good balancing acidity and great structure. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Billie's, Tasmania (Australia) Apple Cider NV ($6, Vineyard Brands): If you like aromatic, easy-to-sip, and uncomplicated wines such as good dry Muscat, you will probably enjoy this apple cider.  With an agile body and inviting apple aromas, it almost resembles beer more than cider -- but beer in ballet slippers.  Thirst quenching, with bubbles so light and evanescent that you can’t be sure you aren’t imagining them, this cider is dry enough to be good with food, especially moderately rich seafood dishes such as seared scallops.  With less than 5% alcohol, it’s an especially appealing option during this season of overindulgence.  Handcrafted from premium Tasmanian apples, this is sold in a 330ml bottle.
89 Marguerite Thomas Dec 24, 2013

Pirie South, Tasmania (Australia) Riesling 2005 ($19, Grail Wine Selections): Bright with forward mineral and citrus aromas, the flavors are crisp, dry and balanced. There is a mouth-watering minerality to this wine that mingles nicely with the fruit tones. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Lalla Gully, Tasmania (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($18, Clos du Val):

Lean and clean, this wine shows superb acidity and excellent potential for further development.  It is still rather simple in aroma and flavor, but once this loosens up and develops some secondary notes from bottle again, it will ascend from very good to excellent.

Victoria:

Red:

Water Wheel Vineyards, Bendigo (Victoria, Australia) "Memsie" 2006 ($13, Southern Starz): A blend of 87% Shiraz, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Malbec, this features a core of dark berry fruit that is accented by a nice meaty streak and just a faint backnote of oak.  Although it shows plenty of gutsy tannin, there's enough fruity flesh to cover the bones, and this well-integrated wine will prove interesting and flattering with a wide range of robust foods. 88 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Water Wheel Vineyards, Bendigo (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz 2006 ($16, Southern Starz): This wine weighs in with alcohol at 15.5%, and consequently feels very smooth and ripe, but neither raisiny nor hot in the finish.  Texturally, it shows a sort of creaminess from the alcohol that is just barely firmed up by acidity or tannin, and the pleasant fruit notes recall kirsch, dried cherries, and very ripe strawberries. 87 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Mount Langi Ghiran, Grampians (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz “Langi” 2019 ($109, Rathbone Wine Group):  The Mount Langi Ghiran winery got its name from the Aboriginal words for home of the yellow tailed black cockatoo.  It was established in 1969 by brothers Don, Lino, and Serge Fratin, natives of Italy’s Veneto region.  In 1980, they hired winemaker Trevor Mast who with his wife bought the winery in 1986.   He remained at Mount Langi Ghiran until 2006 when Adam Louder became Chief Winemaker.  He is the one who made this wine.  It comes from the Langi vineyard, which was the first vineyard planted by the brothers.  It is concentrated and complex with fruit flavors of blackberry, blueberry, and cherry, laced with notes of peppercorns, vanilla, baking spices and a touch of smoke.  While the fruit is concentrated, the wine it is not heavy.  It has vibrant acidity that enlivens the fruit and the chalky tannins that support  a solid yet supple structure.       
98 Rebecca Murphy Jan 30, 2024

Mount Langi Ghiran, Grampians (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz “Cliff Edge” 2019 ($29, RWG, USA):  The winery name means “home of the yellow tailed black cockatoo” in the Aboriginal language.  It was created by the three Fratin brothers who tried to recreate a semblance of their Veneto homeland by replanting the existing vineyards in 1969.  They also planted fruit and nut trees and built a cellar into a hillside for aging wines as well as homemade salami.  In 1986 they sold the property to Trevor Mast who had been their winemaking consultant.  His idea was to make a cool climate Shiraz before it was cool: a wine that will “express of the “intensity, purity and finesse possible thanks to the cool climate, historic vines and granite soils at Mount Langi Ghiran.”  This 2019 Shiraz has a dark ruby color with a ruby red rim and forward black cherry, blackberry aromas with a note of candied strawberry.  Intense black cherry, blackberry fruit are displayed on the palate, with mouthwatering acidity and integrated, silky tannins.  It will be a delicious partner for barbeque brisket or a pork tenderloin.        
95 Rebecca Murphy Jan 4, 2022

Mount Langi Ghiran, Grampians (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz 2021 ($27, Rathbone Wine Group):  Mount Langi Ghiran's 2021 Grampians Shiraz is a budget friendly wine that shows well above its price class, with mixed berry fruit complemented by powdery spice and a dash of pepper.  The elements work well with the moderately firm structure, and will show better with an hour or two in the decanter. Serve with something beefy — or something that goes “baaa….”       
91 Rich Cook Apr 9, 2024

Best’s, Great Western (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz “Bin No. 1” 2018 ($22, Little Peacock Imports):  This is a beautiful, seamless Shiraz with a dark ruby color and aromas of blackberries, blueberries and black cherries with hints of black olives and a touch of dried herbs.  The plush flavors of black and blue berries combine with dried herbal notes and comingle with vivid acidity and smooth as silk tannins.  Enjoy it with roast leg of lamb or Mushroom Stroganoff.  Winemaker Justin Perser ages the Bin No. 1 Shiraz 12 months in French oak barrels of various sizes.  After bottling he ages the wine 12 months before it is released, which contributes to the seamless quality of this Shiraz.  In 1866, Henry Best planted grapes in the Great Western region, which is a sub-region of Grampians.  Best died in 1920 and William Thompson, who was a grape grower, bought Best’s property, which his family continues to operate today.       
94 Rebecca Murphy Jan 4, 2022

Best's, Great Western (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz “Bin No. 1” 2012 ($22, Little Peacock Imports): Best’s Great Western Shiraz is legendary among Aussie bottlings.  From the estate’s lovely setting in the Grampian Mountains northwest of Melbourne, Best’s has been producing balanced and complex reds for well over a century.  The Bin No. 1 Shiraz displays the balance and liveliness for which the estate is noted.  It offers ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit aromas enhanced by hints of blueberry, lavender, mint, cedar and spice.  The flavors are plush and rounded, but still lively and bright, with layers of blackberry and cherry fruit followed by subtleties of mint, vanilla, cedar and baking spice.  It is luscious and forward with bold fruit, but its overall lift and complexity allows it to stand out as a superior Shiraz, worthy of the Great Western heritage.
92 Wayne Belding Jun 16, 2015

Best's, Great Western (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz Bin No. 1 2016 ($23, Skurnik Wines):  Best’s Great Western is a legendary Victorian winery.  From its lovely setting in the Grampian Mountains northwest of Melbourne, Best’s has been producing wines since 1868.  Today, in a wine world that seems to reward ever-more- alcoholic and powerful reds, they are most noted for exquisitely balanced and complex Shiraz wines.  The Bin No. 1 Shiraz is drawn from Best’s estate vineyards as well as trusted nearby growers.  It displays the balance and liveliness for which the estate is noted.  It offers ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit aromas enhanced by hints of blueberry, lavender, licorice, mint and spice.  The flavors are plush, layered and rounded, but still lively and bright, with blackberry and cherry fruit followed by subtleties of mint, vanilla, licorice and baking spice.  It is luscious and forward with velvety fruit, but its overall lift provides a refreshing character and allows it to stand out as a superior Shiraz, worthy of the Best’s Great Western name. 
92 Wayne Belding Dec 24, 2019

Chalmers, Heathcote (Victoria, Australia) Nero d’Avola 2021 ($29):  A no oak Nero D’Avola from an unexpected source, though the winery planted the variety in 2000 and has been producing a wine since 2009.  It shows serious cool climate vibes, with bright raspberry and blackberry aromas, lively acidity that translates the aromas directly into flavors and a bright zesty finish.  This is aching for food, and will work with red sauced pizzas or grilled burgers beautifully.  If you are a fan of the lighter style Nero d’Avola coming out of Sicily of late, this takes things a little further, and in a good way.           
91 Rich Cook Apr 9, 2024

Cooralook, Heathcote (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz Yabby Kale Vineyard 2008 ($16):  A soft, supple Shiraz that avoids the excesses of over-extraction and heady alcohol which mar so many Down Under renditions of the varietal, this is an impressively complex wine priced for everyday (or weekend at home) drinking.  It offers plum and dark cherry fruit enhanced by echoes of tobacco, cedar, and savory spice, and is impressively long on the palate.  You can’t do much better for less tan $20. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 1, 2011

De Bortoli, King Valley (Victoria, Australia) Bella Riva Vineyard “Bella Riva Red” 2011 ($11): Here’s a pleasant surprise. I was not expecting much from an $11 wine from Australia. Instead of some simple fruit bomb, De Bartoli has fashioned a refreshing and vibrant red with by blending equal amounts of Sangiovese and Merlot. Bright, cherry-like flavors are infused with subtle smoky notes. If it came from Italy I’d call this juicy red a “pizza wine.” Whatever its origin, it’s a bargain. Stock up for the summer -- a slight chill makes it even more refreshing.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2013

Stonier, Mornington Peninsula (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Noir 2005 ($25): From an Aussie winery that specializes in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in a region where Pinot is said to be 'the winemakers' obsession of choice,' this wine is spicy and somewhat delicate, reflecting the cool maritime influence of the vineyard's coastal location.  If, like me, you're fed up with all those sweet Pinots flooding the market, give this one a try.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 5, 2007

Chalmers Family, Murray Darling (Victoria, Australia) “Mother Block” Red 2022 ($18, Legend Imports):  The Chalmers Family winery of Murray Darling in the state of Victoria is a vine nursery as well as a wine producer.  They have made an effort to bring Italian grapes to their facility and supply vine cuttings to other wineries throughout Australia.  Their Mother Block Red Blend combines seven of the Italian varieties and is made in a fruit forward, easy drinking style (these are, Sagrantino, Nero d’Avola, Aglianico, Sangiovese, Uva de Troia, Teroldego, and Piedrosso).  The 2022 vintage offers a delicious combination of juicy fruit and lively spice.  This vibrant red bursts with strawberry, red cherry and cranberry fruits enhanced by nuances of fresh flowers, herbs and coriander spice.  The flavors are pure and lively, with juicy red fruits backed by subtle herbal and spice tones.  This is a pure, exuberant and bright red that will offer great tasting pleasure over the next year.     
90 Wayne Belding Oct 17, 2023

Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier, Pyrenees (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz Malakoff vineyard 2007 ($30, Terlato Wines International):  Here's something you may not have thought possible:  A Shiraz that combines the approach of France and Australia.  It's from a region called the Pyrenees, northeast of Melbourne, that few outside Australia knew about, but wines like this will change that.  It's earthy on the nose, with dried blackberries and plums and a strong cured meat note.  On the palate, it's delightful.  With a cured meat note overlaid by fresh blackberries and dried black plums, it's food-friendly but also almost like a main course on its own.  Finishes with graphite minerality. It has decent acidity and a medium body (14% alcohol), but this is not a shy wine, so it needs potent foods to keep up. 94 W. Blake Gray Apr 10, 2012

Taltarni, Pyrenees of Victoria (Victoria, Australia) “Cephas” 2003 ($40, Clos du Val Wine Co.): A blend of Shiraz (81%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cephas is the flagship wine of Taltarni, Bernard Portet and Clos du Val’s outpost in Australia.  This bold red--with slightly smoky with gamey undertones--still maintains the hallmark elegance of Clos du Val’s style.  Despite its power, it is not flamboyant or over-the-top.  Supporting tannins add structure but their polished texture allows for current enjoyment.  Undoubtedly its bottle age contributes to its wonderful complexity, which is apparent in the nose and on the palate as the wine evolves in the glass.  It’s stylish and big--two words not often used in the same sentence when referring to Australian wine--and a worthy flagship. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2009

Fowles, Strathbogie Ranges (Victoria, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Farm to Table” 2019 ($18):  Cool climate Victorian Cab!  A vibrant Cabernet nose kicks things off with purity of fruit, and it seems that the later release was a wise choice to soften the wine a bit.  The palate delivers a delicious mix, with nice dried herb character that enhances the fruit.  It is dry, peppery, bright and long, and it’s a crazy value!  Contains 7% Merlot.        
92 Rich Cook Apr 16, 2024

Fowles, Victoria (Australia) Shiraz Wild Ferment, “Ladies who Shoot their Lunch” 2018 ($40):  Take a look at a map of Australia and you will see the region of Victoria on the southeastern tip of the continent, above the island of Tasmania.  The Fowles family’s vineyards and winery are in the high-altitude, cool climate region of Victoria located in the middle of Strathbogie Ranges.  They own and manage two vineyards called Upton Run and Billi's with a total of 360 acres of vines.  They note that 2018 was a comfortably warm year so the grapes were perfectly ripened while maintaining balancing acidity.  It is an impressive wine with a dark ruby color, and aromas of black cherry, blackberry with a touch of black pepper.  It is fresh and lively in the mouth, a lighter version of Syrah/Shiraz than you might expect with bright acidity, and fine, ripe tannins.        
95 Rebecca Murphy Jan 17, 2023

Giaconda, Victoria (Australia) Shiraz Warner Vineyard 2004 ($100, Negociants USA): I'm not sure that I can ever recall tasting a Syrah/Shiraz that combined so much ripe fruit along with so much bright, bracing acidity as this wine holds.  Although I'd guess that it will need five years to settle down and open up for something like optimal drinking, it is already remarkable, with intense blackberry fruit, a nice pepper/spice bite in the finish, and an subtle dose of spicy oak.  Although it is not yet competitive with the phenomenal 2003 counterpart bottling from this producer, it seems likely to get to that level if given time to age. 91 Michael Franz Jun 12, 2007

Domaine Terlaro & Chapoutier, Victoria (Australia) Shiraz-Viognier 2005 ($25, Paterno): Made in partnership between French Rhône vintner, Michel Chapoutier, and American importer and vintner, Anthony Terlato, this wine itself evidences collaboration, being fruit-driven and forward in a typical Aussie style, but also earthy and nuanced, so reminiscent of wines from the northern Rhône.  Delicious now, it should only improve with a few years of bottle age.  Impressive. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 27, 2007

Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier, Victoria (Australia) Shiraz-Viognier 2008 ($19, Terlato Wines International):  This impressive wine is a cooperative venture between the Rhône’s Michel Chapoutier and Napa’s Anthony Terlato.  Those who are accustomed to Shiraz from the Barossa Valley might find this a little leaner and brighter than what they’re used to, whereas those used to Rhône Syrah from, say, Crozes Hermitage will find this riper and richer.  I found it very much to my liking, styled at a broadly useful point on the Syrah – Shiraz continuum with a near-optimal balance between restraint and opulence.  Black fruit notes predominate, but there’s nice lift from acidity and some interesting savory and peppery notes around the edges.  The wood influence is very subtle, which is definitely an advantage since the nuances of the fruit are so appealingly apparent as a result.  A nationwide search shows lots of variation in the asking price for this wine, so those who would be having it shipped to them would do well to search a bit on their own. 90 Michael Franz Oct 12, 2010

Frisk, Victoria (Australia) “Prickly Rosso” 2012 ($11, Old Bridge Cellars): A deliciously fun wine, light and bright in every sense: light red (“rosso”) in color, light as a moonbeam in taste and texture, light in alcohol (12.5 percent), and certainly light on the budget.  It’s gently and refreshingly spritzy, slightly sweet without being cloying, and enlivened by bright acidity.  You might be surprised to discover how versatile Frisk can be with a meal:  Chill it down then enjoy it with light pasta, vegetarian or seafood dishes, as well as pork and poultry preparations.  A blend of 51% Merlot and 49% Dolcetto.
90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 10, 2013

Giaconda, Victoria (Australia) Pinot Noir Mantua Vineyard 2004 ($50, Negociants, USA): Interesting and exotic at every turn, this wine shows all sorts of accents of Asian spices and dried herbs and cedar that emerge with airing and slide in and out of the forefront over time.  I've tasted two bottles of this, and wasn't patient enough with the first one, which just seemed weird to me at first blush.  But a longer, more patient look at the second bottle showed a remarkably nuanced wine--though it is nevertheless one that embodies very unusual notes and some rather odd performance characteristics.  The core of black cherry fruit is solid enough, and the acidity and wood are solid as well, so the whole story here is in the accent notes.  They are remarkable, and, if perhaps not to everyone's liking, there's no doubt that this is a wine full of distinctive character. 90 Michael Franz Jul 10, 2007

Innocent Bystander, Victoria (Australia) Pinot Noir 2010 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  The full name of this wine is Innocent Bystander Winemakers and the watercolor label shows a shadowy figure lurking behind a grapevine.  The wine, however, presents no such mystery with its medium cherry-red color, toasted oak, tobacco leaf and bright cherry aromas and flavors.  It has nicely integrated tannins, a very pleasant 13% alcohol, good length and a trace of smoked bacon in the finish.  This is an excellent Pinot Noir, finished with a screw cap, from one of Australia’s premium Pinot Noir regions. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 25, 2011

Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier, Victoria (Australia) Shiraz - Viognier 2013 ($18, Terlato Wines International): Fifteen years ago, Rhône vigneron Michel Chapoutier and U.S. wine producer Tony Terlato began collaborating on an Australian wine estate to produce French-inspired Syrah.  The current release, the 2013 vintage, is very good quality, delightful to drink, and an amazing value.  Although labeled “Shiraz-Viognier,” this wine is 95 percent Syrah with only 5 percent of white Viognier grapes in the mix -- as is traditional in parts of France’s Rhone Valley -- to enhance the perfume, color stability, complexity and freshness of the red wine.  The wine’s aroma has notes of raspberry and other red fruits with a slight floral nuance.  In your mouth, the wine is full-bodied and very fruity, with spicy notes accenting its fruitiness, as well as a modest amount of grippy tannin that contributes character.  This is a wine that should please wine drinkers who are drawn to fresh, fruity reds but also those who expect a wine to be well structured, true to varietal character, and balanced.
89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Dec 2, 2014

Dominique Portet, Yarra Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($60, Legend):  Great wine runs in Dominique Portet’s blood; his father served as the winery and vineyard manager at Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, where Dominique was first introduced to the wine trade.  After working in some of the most esteemed wineries and wine regions across the world, Dominique set out to create a winery celebrating the potential of cool-climate wine in Australia.  The bouquet of his 2017 Cabernet is hauntingly beautiful and decadently layered.  Mint and eucalyptus give way to vanilla and rose petals, which in turn make way for black currant and red cherry.  On the palate, chewy tannins meet vibrant acidity and moderate alcohol (13.5%) to form a wine that is impeccably well balanced.  With 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petite Verdot, 3% Malbec, and 2% Cabernet Franc, this wine brings together the nuance and structure of great Cabernet but in a package that is brighter and more accessible (both in terms of its readiness to drink and price) than one might imagine.  With food or on its own, this wine is a joy to drink and ponder.      
96 John McDermott Aug 29, 2023

Innocent Bystander, Yarra Valley (Australia) Pinot Noir 2013 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars): The trend toward beautifully made and affordable Pinot Noir is a recent phenomenon in California, and now the Aussies are getting in on the act. This spicy Pinot from the cool Yarra Valley was a huge hit with judges at the 6th annual Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition, taking a platinum award despite its modest price. Well balanced and refined, it exhibits inviting red-fruit aromas, a spicy nose, and a long, lingering finish. 94 Robert Whitley Sep 23, 2014

Yering Station, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz - Viognier 2018 ($55):  Yering Station has been making wine for a long time.  They proudly claim the first vineyard plantings in Victoria dating back to 1838.  This Shiraz - Viognier blend is a bow to the Northern Rhône Valley where these two grapes are grown, harvested, and fermented together.  If this is the Australian spin on that style, the co-fermented blend is where the similarities end.  This wine is decidedly Australian in style, with big, powerful, and borderline jammy black and blue fruit, tobacco, red licorice, and vanilla.  If you are drinking this wine anytime soon, it needs to be decanted for aeration, but it can age another ten years if you prefer a more patient approach.       
92 Vince Simmon Jan 31, 2023

Yering Station, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz - Viognier 2018 ($24, RWG, USA):  Victoria is Australia’s smallest mainland state.  It is home to the cool climate Yarra Valley wine region.  So, if your image of an Australian Shiraz is full-bodied, bold, and hot, you may be disappointed or, you may be delighted.  Pretty, crystal clear ruby with a dark pink rim and focused, black cherry, black currant aromas with hints of black pepper introduce a layered blend of black cherry, fresh as well as candied, cranberry and black currants, mingling with a touch of black pepper and candied ginger.  The fruit is balanced with crisp, linear acidity and smooth, ripe tannins, in a medium-bodied wine that will enliven a roast chicken or complement a grilled steak.  Victoria’s first vineyard was planted at Yering Station in 1838 and by 1889 a Grand Prix at the World Exhibition in Paris for one of the wines from this site acknowledged its pedigree.       
92 Rebecca Murphy Jan 4, 2022

Innocent Bystander, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Noir 2011 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Contrary to conventional wisdom, not all of Australia is hot. Indeed, the Yarra Valley in Victoria is quite chilly and, as this wine shows, perfectly suited for stylish Pinot Noir, a grape that doesn’t like the heat. Although I shutter at the cutesy names of many Australian wines, it’s impossible not to be thrilled by the quality -- and price -- of this one. Its light color belies its depth of flavor. Fresh red fruit notes dance across the palate and complement savory earthy ones. It delivers the magical “flavor without weight” character of Pinot Noir. And it’s a fabulous value, especially for Pinot Noir.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2013

Greenpoint, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2005 ($27, Moët Hennessy USA): This Shiraz offers more than upfront Aussie fruit, as it supports its vivid plum and berry flavors with earthy echoes of leather, pipe tobacco, and pepper.  In doing so, it nods towards Syrah-based wines from the northern Rhône, while still exhibiting plenty of Down Under panache. 90 Paul Lukacs Nov 11, 2008

Robert Oatley, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Noir 2012 ($20): The Yarra Valley, just northeast of Melbourne, is a cool region, nicely suited for Pinot Noir, which can lose delicacy if the weather’s too warm.    Indeed, this Pinot Noir has a lovely lacey, delicate quality enhanced by uplifting acidity.  A subtle savory character comes through the fruitiness, adding complexity.  Though light on the palate, the interplay of fresh fruit notes and spice make this wine easy to recommend.  It’s rare to find Pinot Noir delivering this much at this price.  It would be a great choice for grilled salmon.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 9, 2014

Wagtail, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Noir 2005 ($10, Country Vintner): As a wine category, ten dollar Pinot Noir is not just iffy or problematic, but a downright train wreck, with each wine in the category seeming worse than the last.  These are the wages of success, as the Pinot Boom has led demand to far outstrip supply at all approachable price levels, leading producers to bump substandard juice up into most bottlings and then, frequently, bump up prices as well.  This wine offers welcome relief from the dreary status quo, with nice aromas of red and black cherries and a bright, fresh profile that also shows some nice spicy, earthy complexities. 83 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2007

Rosé:

Innocent Bystander, Victoria (Australia) Moscato 2008 ($12, Old Bridge Cellars): Packaged in a petite (375 ml.) bottle with a crown seal that both locks in freshness and is easy to pry open, this peach colored wine is altogether a pretty thing to behold.  But as the saying goes: 'Beauty is as beauty does;' happily, in this case the moderately sweet, moderately fizzy wine is indeed lovely.  If the taste of real strawberries (not the blah supermarket imposters) rocks your socks you'll surely like this wine, for it embodies the very soul of strawberries.  Serve it fresh, serve it chilled, serve it as an aperitif or as an after dinner treat--or heck, at 5.5% alcohol, serve it for breakfast. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jul 1, 2008

Greenpoint, Victoria (Australia) Pinot Noir Rosé 2007 ($16, Moet Hennessy USA): Full of juicy cherry and red berry flavors, with hints of savory spice, this wine offers the combination of refreshment and depth that makes good rosés such appealing choices for warm weather drinking.  The only drawback is a touch of heat and bitterness in the finish. 86 Paul Lukacs Apr 29, 2008

Sparkling:

Innocent Bystander, Victoria (Australia) Moscato 2010 ($15, Old Bridge Cellars):  Made from a blend of Muscat Gordo (Muscat of Alexandria) and Black Muscat (Muscat of Hamburg), this spritzy quaffer is an ideal sipping wine for summer outings.  The color is a pale “party pink” and the low intensity aromatics offer mingled Muscat scents with ripe strawberry.  There’s a mouth-tingling fizz that lifts the fruit, 5.5% alcohol and a medium sweet finish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 21, 2011

White:

Frisk, Alpine & King Valleys (Victoria, Australia) “Prickly” Riesling 2011 ($11, Old Bridge Cellars):  Leave to the Aussies to come up with a tasty value wine with a sassy descriptive name.  Frisk is a frisky Riesling with a pleasing level of prickly spritz lifting the ample fruity flavors.  It has a pale straw color, lively bubbles, loads of tropical fruit and jasmine aromas, off-dry fruity flavors, a refreshing 9.8% alcohol and a sweet/tart finish;  and all that Australian goodness for $11 American. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 6, 2011

Frisk, Alpine Valleys (Victoria, Australia) Riesling 'Prickly' 2011 ($11, Old Bridge Cellars): The label rightly informs you it’s prickly, courtesy of a natural spritziness.  What the label fails to mention is that it’s a touch sweet.  Not in a cloying way—actually a quite attractive sweetness—but a surprising one nonetheless.  It shows the floral and fruity side of Riesling rather than the piercing mineraly side.  It’s a good choice for spicy fare or as a stand-alone aperitif. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2011

Mount Langi Ghiran, Grampians (Victoria, Australia) Riesling 2023 ($23):  Mount Langi Ghiran, best known for their array of stunning Shiraz wines, makes an equally compelling Riesling.  I know, isn’t Australia too hot for Riesling?  Much of the country is, but Mount Langi Ghiran’s location in the cool Grampians district of Victoria is ideal for that grape — and of course, given their reputation, for Shiraz.  They don’t make much of it, 500 cases annually or about two percent of their total production, but it is worth seeking out.  The crisp and clean 2023 Riesling combines the barest hint of delicate fruitiness with a cutting mineral component that awakes the palate without screeching.  A delicate and welcome hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces that this is a very dry Riesling.  It would be an excellent foil for the plethora of flavors in an omakase meal.  It is an equally good choice for spicy food because the acidity cuts through the spice and invigorates the palate.  It will be a refreshing after work aperitif this summer.  The screw cap allows you to have a glass, replace in the fridge, and have another glass the next day.  But my guess is that after the first glass, you will just take it to the table.          
93 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2024

Rutherglen Estates, Rutherglen (Victoria, Australia) "The Alliance" 2005 ($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Here is my vote for the best Rhône-style white wine produced outside of France. And it will give most Rhone Valley white wines a run for their money. Rutherglen's Alliance, a marvelous blend of Marsanne and Viognier, has the hint of apricots often found in Rhone whites, but with a lightness that is often lacking in those wines. A subtle floral nuance imparted by Viognier and great acidity keeps you coming back for more. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006

Giaconda, Victoria (Australia) Chardonnay Nantua Vineyard 2005 ($60, Negociants USA): Giaconda is among Australia's most elite producers, and though very little of their (already small) production makes it to the United States, what gets here is well worth a search.  This Nantua Vineyard Chardonnay was, in my opinion, the equal of the Estate Vineyard bottling at a price that is $40 lower, so this is an especially inviting point of introduction to Giaconda.  Blended with 7% Roussanne, it shows a very deft touch with oak and exceptional balance of fruit and acidity.  The balance between rich, creamy, nutty notes and fresh, bright ones is so intricate that I actually had difficulty deciding whether the wine should be categorized as medium- or full-bodied.  I'll leave it to you to decide that for yourself. 91 Michael Franz May 15, 2007

Giaconda, Victoria (Australia) Chardonnay Estate Vineyard 2004 ($100, Negociants USA): This Chardonnay from Victoria's legendary Giagonda is bigger, oakier, and more dramatic than the Nantua Vineyard release from 2005, and for those who want a lot of bells and whistles after having to search for and pony up $100 for the bottle, this is the ticket.  You'd be well advised to give it three or four years in the cellar for the oak notes to intertwine with the fruit components, but already there's no doubt that this is an exceptionally complex Chardonnay.  Spicy, toasty, nutty accent notes and a thin layer of minerality work very nicely on a foundation of peach fruit that also shows tropical and citrus characters. 91 Michael Franz May 15, 2007

Redbank, Victoria (Australia) Chardonnay “The Long Paddock” 2011 ($15, Negociants USA): The conventional wisdom is that Australia Chardonnays are ripe, big and in your face.  Well, it turns out that conventional wisdom is wrong in this case (and in many others when it comes to Australian wine).  Victoria’s relatively cool climate compared to most of Australian grape growing areas is readily apparent in this Chardonnay and explains the wine’s alluring and captivating delicacy and enticing creaminess.  It’s a reserved wine whose great appeal sneaks up on you.  Bright acidity keeps you coming back for another glass.  It shatters the image of “Australian Chardonnay.”
91 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2014

Giaconda, Victoria (Australia) Roussanne “Aeolia” 2005 ($100, Negociants USA): Subtle but interesting and very tasty, this Roussanne shows rich, expressive fruit recalling ripe pear and melon, with energetic acidity and nice complexities from notes of roasted nuts and wet stones.  Although delicious now, there's enough acidity to keep this fresh for another five years, and if I had a bottle with which to gamble, I'd keep this for another two or three years to let additional aromatic complexities develop. 90 Michael Franz May 15, 2007

Zilzie, Victoria (Australia) Chardonnay 2023 ($16, Zilzie Wine USA):  Zilzie's Chardonnay is a simple yet satisfying style, with bright acidity, lemon and green apple fruit, and just a dash of oak toast that rounds it off a bit without taking its pizzazz away.  You won’t find this sort of quality at this price very often, and I’m happy to say that you will be able to find this one here in the USA as it gains distribution.       
90 Rich Cook Apr 2, 2024

Taltarni, Victoria (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($13, Clos du Val Wine Co.): A bit heavier on the palate than many comparably-styled Sauvignon Blancs, this unoaked wine tastes of grapefruit and lime, with green herbal undertones that gain intensity in the finish.  Medium-bodied, it’s texture gives it added versatility at the dinner table, as it has enough stuffing to stand up to dishes (grilled or roast chicken, for example) that can overpower some other Sauvignons.  It’s a fine value, and should offer very satisfying drinking through the year. 88 Paul Lukacs Jul 21, 2009

Taltarni, Victoria (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($13, Clos du Val Wine Company): Taltarni has fashioned a “friendlier” version of Sauvignon Blanc compared to the more bracing ones that come from Marlborough, New Zealand. It conveys a little creaminess that rounds out the pungency inherent to the varietal.  Those looking the edginess of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc will be disappointed, but those searching for a balanced Bordeaux-styled white wine will embrace it--especially at the price. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 22, 2009

Taltarni, Victoria (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($13, Clos du Val): Clean but generous, this is really a medium-bodied wine.  It doesn't have the cut and flash of the best Aussie Sauvignons from places like the Adelaide Hills, but it is very tasty and versatile, and notably less costly. 85 Michael Franz Oct 9, 2007

Taltarni, Victoria (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($13):

A lighter style of Sauvignon that's more about aromatics than palate weight or mouthfeel. Nevertheless, the flinty nose offers some appeal, as do the notes of anise and melon. If what you have in mind is a pleasant quaffer with a modicum of personality, this will do the trick.

Yering Station, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Chardonnay 2021 ($35, RWG USA):  This is simply sensational Chardonnay, and considered against other options in its price range, I have only tasted one other wine as complex and exciting during the past few years (namely, the “Estate” release from Kumeu River from New Zealand, made by the brilliant Michael Brajkovich MW).  I’ve tasted a few exceptional “Village” bottlings of Chablis that were a full click down, but my point should be clear:  This is a world leader, and far better than most Chardonnay releases from anywhere — even at twice the price.  It shows a medium-bodied profile with no excess weight but exceptional flavor impact in relation to its physical density, with wonderful flavors akin to citrus fruits (sharp lemons but also riper tangerines) and green apples but also some softer fruit notes more like baked apples.  The aromas and flavors gain a lot of complexity from very well-measured oak spice, but there’s no hint of vanilla or butterscotch or anything that sets off those who don’t like oaky Chardonnays.  Absolutely delicious now, this will develop additional complexity for at least five years without losing its freshness. By this, I mean that it has so much energetic acidity that it will not turn dull as it develops tertiary characters from additional time in bottle.  I’m sure I seem like I’m getting carried away, but I’ve tasted this four times since January, during which time I’ve also tasted about 600 other Chardonnays from other producers and regions, so I know what I’m talking about.         
95 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2024

Green Point, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Chardonnay Reserve 2004 ($30, Moet Hennessy USA): In the mid-1980s, Moët & Chandon, the world largest Champagne producer, established their outpost in Australia 30 miles east of Melbourne in the Yarra Valley in the state of Victoria.  In addition to Australian sparkling wines, Moët makes stylish still wines under the Green Point label.  Similar to the state of Western Australia at the other end of the continent, Victoria is a cool climate area in terms of viticulture.  Reflecting the climate, Green Point's Reserve Chardonnay, a bottling of their best batches, has bright acidity to balance the mouth-filling richness and subtle toastiness from oak aging. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2007

Innocent Bystander, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Gris 2009 ($15, Old Bridge Cellars):  Conditions were difficult for wine grapes during the 2009 season in the Yarra Valley, but out of adversity comes this ripe and fruity Pinot Gris.  Barrel and tank fermented then aged in older French oak barrels, it has a light gold color, nose of dried flowers, ginger and crisp green apple.  The bright fruit flavors are nicely textured, balanced with crisp acidity, low intensity oak notes, 13.5% alcohol and a dry finish. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 14, 2011

Western Australia:

Red:

Ironcloud, Ferguson Valley (Western Australia) Rock of Solitude GSM “Purple Patch” 2020 ($30):  I appreciate the aromatic development here, where it shows as layers of rich red and blue fruit.  On the palate, lively acidity carries the fruit flavors as they mix with crushed rock mineral and pepper notes.  That rocky note carries through the finish, keeping the fruit on the lively side.  Give this Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre blend a good decanting for full enjoyment.     
91 Rich Cook Oct 11, 2022

Rocky Gully, Frankland (Western Australia) Shiraz Viognier 2004 ($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Fans of spicy Australian Shiraz will love this massive, peppery fruit bomb from Australia's Frankland River region near the west coast of the country. The white grape viognier is a small component in the blend and adds a lush mouthfeel and high-toned fruit aromatics on the nose. What's most unusual, however, is the complete absence of oak. And you barely miss it! 89 Robert Whitley Oct 24, 2005

Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz "Jarrah" 2002 ($38, Ravensvale Group): Alkoomi's top-of-the-line Shiraz takes its name from a local hardwood tree. It has a great combination of succulent fruit and meaty flavors, which are balanced rather than not overdone. 95 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz/Viognier Black Label 2004 ($21, Ravensvale Group): Another restrained style of Shiraz with long, layered flavors that linger. Although the blend includes only two percent Viognier, that little dash provides real lift and an added layer of finesse. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia) "The Sterling" 2004 ($29, Partners Wine Marketing): A blend of two-thirds Shiraz and one-third Cabernet, Ferngrove's flagship wine has a fabulous mix of notes including chocolate, smoke and tobacco. It's a big wine, yet balanced, with great finesse. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz White Label 2003 ($13, Partners Wine Marketing): Sourced from Ferngrove's estate vineyards, this Shiraz delivers rich, ripe, plumy flavors without overwhelming the attractive gamy notes. A long and lovely wine at a wonderful price. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

The Yard, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Powderbark Vineyard 2005 ($40, Tom Eddy Wines/Vintage New World): A sumptuous rendition of Australia's signature red varietal, this wine succeeds because it offers so much more than just opulent fruit.  It tastes graceful, even elegant, with cocoa and coffee undertones, just the right note of spice from barrel aging, and an extremely impressive because long and layered finish.  The Yard's Riesling merited an enthusiastic recommendation on this site a few months ago, suggesting that this producer, whose wines are relatively new to these shores, will be worth following in the future. 92 Paul Lukacs Jun 10, 2008

Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz White Label 2004 ($13, Ravensvale Group): An atypical Australian Shiraz, the charm of this lovely wine lies in the interplay of understated fruit flavors with gamy, earthy notes. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Larry Cherubino, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Powderbark Vineyard “The Yard” 2005 ($40, Tom Eddy Wines): Wines from Western Australia, while exuberantly flavored, tend to be somewhat less flamboyant than those from other Down Under growing regions.  This Shiraz, though full of plum and berry fruit, is admirably balanced and displays intriguing secondary flavors reminiscent of leather and sweet pipe tobacco.  Tasty today, it has both the stuffing and the structure to age gracefully, and one suspects that the nuances that make it so interesting now will only multiply with a few more years in bottle.  Impressive. 91 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2007

Larry Cherubino, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz Powder Bark Vineyard "The Yard" 2005 ($40, Tom Eddy Wines):

Cherubino was the winemaker at Houghton, a leading producer in Western Australia, and a senior winemaker at New Zealand's prestigious Craggy Range, before setting out on his own.  Judging from this, his first Shiraz, he will succeed at this endeavor as well.  Succulent plum and black currant fruit flavors pour from this powerful, but balanced wine.  Fine tannins and a touch of peppery elements round out the picture. It's another welcome alternative for those who find many Barossa Shiraz over-the-top.

Peter Howland, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Parsons Vineyard 2004 ($35, Robert Whale Selections): The three current release Shiraz bottlings from Peter Howland are all seriously delicious and dramatically different from one another.  This is quite probably a function of the relatively cool climate of Western Australia, which permits more subtle terroir-based notes to show on account of the fact that ripeness doesn't overtake the wines.  This is the ripest, softest and most powerful of the three, and hence the top choice for those who need to be weaned off of the Barossa style of Shiraz.  Although it is very deeply, generously flavored, it shows sufficient structure to stay in balance and not so much ripeness or wood as to seem overblown. 91 Michael Franz Jul 3, 2007

Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) “Blackbutt” 2004 ($50, The Ravensvale Group): Named after a rare eucalyptus tree, this blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Franc shows great class from start to finish.  It provides lots of flavor from a foundation that is only medium-bodied, making it quite versatile in its pairing possibilities with food.  Vanilla, spices, light toast, blackberry and black cherry. 90 Michael Franz Mar 25, 2008

Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2005 ($18, Total Beverage Solution):

A deliciously rich but still lithe Shiraz, with a peppery undertone that adds compelling complexity.  At $18, it's a steal.

Ferngrove, Frankland River (Australia) Shiraz "Estate" 2005 ($17, Ferngrove, USA): Top bottlings of Shiraz from Western Australia combine deeply flavorful fruit with an unusually bright, refreshing profile.  Moderately priced releases are often the most distinctive and versatile, as relatively restrained oak permits the delicious primary fruit to hold center stage.  This bottling shows red and black berry flavors and tannins that are abundant but ripe and fine in grain. 90 Michael Franz Dec 5, 2006

Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Majestic" 2005 ($25, Ferngrove, USA): This classy Cab from Western Australia delivers plenty of power, but it has got a whole lot more going for it than sheer brawn.  It's beautifully balanced, with ripe plum, raspberry, blackberry and cedar flavors, and layer upon layer of tannin.   It is an awesome Aussie-or as they might say Down Under, it's dinki-di. 90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 12, 2006

Larry Cherubino, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz "The Yard" 2005 ($40, Tom Eddy):

A substantial but in no sense excessive Shiraz, with a pepper-tinged undertone and echoes of earthy leather in the bouquet that reflect the Frankland River's cool (or at least cooler, when compared to more famous South Australian regions) grape-growing conditions.  Though very tasty now, the wine has both the structure and the stuffing to age gracefully.  This was my first experience with 'The Yard,' so I can only guess; but I would wager that those appealing secondary aromas and flavors will gain intensity with time spent in bottle.

Mad Fish, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz "Gold Turtle" 2005 ($19, Opici Wine Co.): Howard Park's other winery, Mad Fish, makes a less-expensive line of wines, but its Gold Turtle wines are its best, really on the level of other fine wineries in Western Australia.  Mad Fish makes a pleasant Shiraz, with grapes sourced from three regions, for $14, but it's worth the extra $5 for its Gold Turtle Shiraz, with 100 percent Frankland River fruit, perhaps the finest region in Western Australia (all of OZ?) for Syrah.  The '05 Gold Turtle Shiraz has ripe, raspberry fruit aromas, real depth, and a lovely, velvety texture. 90 Ed McCarthy Nov 13, 2007

Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($23, The Ravensvale Group): This very tasty wine is quite soft in structure and elegant in flavor, but is still deeply satisfying.  It features notes of blackberry and black raspberry, with quite subtle wood and admirably bright acidity.  A little peppery streak in the lends added interest, and all the wine's components are very well integrated. 87 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2007

Frankland Estate, Frankland River Region (Western Australia) “Olmo’s Reward” 2009 ($55, Quintessential Wines): A Bordeaux-styled blend of 70% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, and 7% each of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a tightly wound wine, full of flavor now but brimming with yet unrealized potential.  Definitely a candidate for long (seven to ten years) cellaring, it’s a keeper. 93 Paul Lukacs Feb 18, 2014

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Scotsdale Vineyard 2003 ($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): This wine's ripe fruit flavors balance the herbal and floral notes, which are more pronounced here than in the Margaret River bottling because the Great Southern region is notably cooler. This is an elegant, layered wine, and another great value! 92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Scotsdale Vineyard 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Co.): A beautifully balanced, ripe but restrained Shiraz, with plenty of bright fruit flavor, underlying notes of pepper and earth, and a long, lingering finish.  Delicious now, it shows every indication of being able to age and possibly improve with cellaring. 90 Paul Lukacs Jul 1, 2008

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Scotsdale Vineyard 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Co.): The Great Southern is south of Margaret River and can be cooler, giving the fruit a more clearly defined edge, with crisp natural acidity.  As for winemaking, the Howard Park Scotsdale Shiraz is virtually the same as for the Leston.  The color is very deep and inky, with purple highlights, while the aromas show black fruits like black currants.  Textured and silky, the full flavors of this Shiraz are inviting and mouth-filling.  The wine has very good structure and will develop with more bottle age. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 1, 2008

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Viognier “Lioness” 2005 ($22, Robert Whale Selections): Western Australia produces some of the best balanced, most versatile bottlings of Shiraz that come to us from Down Under, and this wine stands as an impressive case in point.  It isn't as big and burly as wines from Barossa, yet if offers deep flavors of dark berries with nice accents of smoke, spices and pepper.  Wood notes stay well in the background, letting the gorgeous fruit shine from where it belongs--at center stage. 90 Michael Franz Mar 18, 2008

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Scotsdale Vineyard 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Co.): Grapes for this brooding Cabernet were sourced from the Mount Barker sub-region of the Great Southern.  Rich with textured blackberry and cedar aromas and flavors, there is an added herbal note for complexity.  The slightly closed-in flavors are clearly defined, with mocha and berry notes and big refined tannins.  It has good length and structure and will mature further. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 15, 2008

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Scotsdale 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Co.): The great appeal of this wine is its bouquet, which offers tantalizing echoes of flowers in addition to the smell of ripe fruit.  On the palate it certainly proves tasty, but its flavors are not as complex and hence not as compelling as those truly seductive aromas.  Some wine lovers pay little attention to bouquet.  If that's true for you, then this wine may not excite you all that much.  But if smell is as important to you as taste, you'll love it. 89 Paul Lukacs Aug 19, 2008

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Scotsdale Vineyard 2005 ($27): Howard Park, one of the top producers in Western Australia, bottles two different Shiraz releases, this one from the Great Southern Region, and one from Margaret River, that show the diversity of wines coming from Western Australia.  This rendition emphasizes the plumy, almost jammy, side of Shiraz.  Quite lush, the straightforward ripe black fruit qualities and mellow tannins mean you can enjoy now. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Scotsdale Vineyard 2004 ($23, Commonwealth): Juicy and ripe but still balanced and fresh, this is a delicious example of how good Shiraz from Western Australia can be.  The fruit is pure and vivid, with notes of blackberries and dark cherries, with a nice peppery accent showing on the back palate.  The wood notes are restrained, and the wine is very well integrated, offering a harmonious impression from the first whiff straight through the finish. 88 Michael Franz Mar 18, 2008

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Scotsdale Vineyard 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Company): Similar to Howard Park's Scottsdale Shiraz, this Cabernet focuses on the ripe fruit character of Cabernet--ripe plum and blackberry--as opposed to the its savory side.  Its velvety, plush texture makes it very appealing now. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ($250): As I’ve said before, “Will Berliner is either a visionary or has beginner’s luck.  An American married to an Australian and settled in Western Australia’s Margaret River area, Berliner has no formal education or real background in wine.”  Yet he continues to turn out spectacular wines.  The immediate gush of aromatics from the glass predicts a dazzling wine -- and the taste confirms it.  It’s a harmonious mixture of intriguing savory and meaty notes with plump cassis-like fruitiness all buttressed by freshness and energy.  The tannins are suave, which allows for immediate enjoyment.  But what distinguishes it -- and all his wines -- is an unheard of elegance and restraint compared to most wines coming out of Australia.  And it weighs in at all of 13.5% stated alcohol, showing that you don’t need super rich grapes to produce marvelous wines.  Berliner feels that with this vintage, “you can taste my vineyard.”  I can’t attest to that, but what I taste is marvelous.  Most people don’t have $250 to spend on a bottle of wine, but if you do, consider this one.
97 Michael Apstein May 24, 2016

Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 ($250): Will Berliner, owner/winemaker at Cloudburst says he cares “about clarity and purity.”  He found both in his 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, an extraordinary wine.  In keeping with the Cloudburst style, Berliner squeezes incredible flavor and nuances out of his grapes without imparting heaviness.   The initial impact of this mid-weight 13.2% stated alcohol is herbs and ash -- an earthy minerality -- rather than fruit.  It’s a seductive and immediately appealing introduction.  A plethora of red and black fruitiness then fills in around the edges making for a spectacular Cabernet.  The tannins are fine, but not so highly polished that they don’t provide support. Not a cookie cutter style of Cabernet, it retains charms and character, qualities rarely found in wines from new producers. There is a classic -- not over ripe -- Bordeaux-like sensibility to this Margaret River wine.
97 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2014

Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Malbec 2012 ($225): Will Berliner, who has already shown his talent with his sensational Cabernet and Chardonnay, has added an equally impressive Malbec to his line up.  Berliner included a small amount of Malbec in his Cabernet Sauvignon previously and clearly liked how it did so he decided to make a small amount of wine (5,000 bottles) exclusively from that variety.  He’s one of the few to make a Malbec in Western Australia and judging from this wine, it could easily be that grape’s new home.  Cloudburst’s Malbec breaks the Malbec mould because it’s not big and bombastic.  Instead, it’s subtle, not just fruit-filled, with a haunting earthy complexity and a meaty, almost chewy texture.  Most surprisingly for Malbec, it has real finesse, in part, no doubt because of the modest 13% stated alcohol.  It’s likely the best Malbec I’ve ever tasted and redefines that varietal for me.
96 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2014

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Art Series" 2001 ($45, Old Bridge Cellars): A harmonious combination of subtle chocolate, herbs, and yes, plenty of fruit, makes you want to drink this now. But resist. Drink the 2000 now and cellar this one for a few years because it will improve as the tannins soften and the flavors continue to unfold. 96 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Cloudburst, Margaret River (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($150): Will Berliner is either a visionary or has beginner’s luck.  An American married to an Australian and settled in Western Australia’s Margaret River area, Berliner has no formal education or real background in wine.  Nonetheless, what he is producing is nothing short of amazing.  I loved his 2011 Chardonnay (reviewed previously) and this 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of Cabernet (93%) and Malbec, is its equal.  His first release, this red wine is gorgeously complex and refined.  All the more surprising is that the vines are young, planted in 2005 and 2006.  Of course, there’s a mixture of black and red fruit flavors, but it’s the non-fruit notes that are intriguing.  The herbal nuances don’t indicate under ripeness; they just lend a seemingly never-ending excitement.  I have no idea what the Malbec adds to the final blend, but it certainly doesn’t overwhelm and obliterate the wine’s finesse.  This balanced mid-weight red conveys extraordinary flavor without resorting to over ripe grapes.  The tannins are present, yet suave.   You can enjoy it now, but it’s balance and structure suggests it will develop nicely.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 5, 2013

Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) "Diana Madeline" 2004 ($70, Young's Market): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cullen's flagship wine is named in honor of Vanya's mother. Intense but balanced and layered, it has great complexity and finesse. Floral notes and aromatic hints of herbs and spice get this wine off to a great start, and nicely interwoven ripe fruit flavors finish with supple tannins. It's a marvelous tribute. 95 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Art Series" 2000 ($45, Old Bridge Cellars): I tasted this at a seminar on Australian and New Zealand wines that I led for a group of undergraduate students at Harvard after my return from Western Australia. It was the wine of the night and a perfect accompaniment to roasted lamb. An extra year of maturity beyond the 2001--and perhaps the voyage to the US--mellowed it slightly without sapping any of its power or complexity. 95 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($50, Moet Hennessy USA): This is a pretty wild ride, but if you are looking for a Cabernet that is loaded with flavor and character and distinctiveness based on point of origin, you are going to have a hard time topping this wine.  Ultra-intense in every respect, it starts with alarmingly dark color and viscosity for a wine that is over five years old.  Things only get more remarkable when you get a nose in the glass, as the wine roars with notes of blackberries, blackcurrants, eucalyptus and saddle leather.  The flavors replicate these notes and add a layer of cocoa.  Any influence of wood is so subtle as to be negligible, as the phenomenally expressive fruit has simply annexed it and absorbed it into itself.  I'm not big on macho muscle wines on principle, but this is so delicious that it cannot be denied. 93 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2006

Evans and Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2003 ($18, Scott Street Portfolio): Another great value from Evans and Tate, this Shiraz has meaty overtones along with pepper and plum-like flavors. A savory wine, it holds its 14.5% alcohol effortlessly. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Miamup” 2015 ($24, The Winebow Group Craft + Estate):  This wine has a lot going for it:  Impressive concentration, complex aromas and flavors, a high ratio of quality to price, and an excellent nickname.  How could you not like a wine called “Maimup”?  Dark berry notes are accented with whiffs of spices, dried herbs and cocoa powder, with soft tannins but enough structure to work well with almost any robust dish.  Ready to enjoy now, but sure to hold at its present quality level or even improve for several additional years. 
93 Michael Franz Jan 8, 2019

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($27, Negociants USA): Some Margaret River wineries had trouble ripening Cabernet in 2002 because it was an unusually cool growing season. Vasse Felix succeeded admirably because they used more grapes from the warmer--northern--part of the region. They fashioned a silky, ripe cassis-infused wine that still retains attractively herbal, but not unripe, elements. 93 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Vinework" 2020 ($27, RWG USA):  Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that producers in the Margaret River they like to focus on what they do best — Cabernet Sauvignon.  He notes with great pride that Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon wins, on average, 75 percent of all trophies in Australian wine competition, despite accounting for only three percent of the Cabernet Sauvignon that is crushed.  They certainly did well with this Cabernet Sauvignon.  Denser and riper than their Circa 77 Cabernet, the more robust Vinework bottling is still balanced, retaining grace and restraint.  It does not stray into the over-the-top category.  Goodall notes that half of the fruit comes from their vineyards.  The other half comes from growers with whom they have established long term relationships.  The silky texture makes this plush wine easy to enjoy now.     
93 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2023

Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia) "Mangan" 2005 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars):

A seamless, sumptuous blend of roughly equal parts Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this wine exhibits depth of flavor (fruit but also subtle earthy notes) without ever seeming heavy or cumbersome.  It has a deliciously long, evolving finish, with a tannic grip that provides structure without astringency. From one of Margaret River's most celebrated producers, it's a wine worth celebrating in and of itself.

Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Etched Label" 2003 ($55, Artemis Wines International): This is a resounding success for the first vintage of what is sure to be this producer's flagship wine. The quality and complexity comes from 35-year old vines, low yields (two to three tons per acre), and the talent of winemaker Nigel Kinsman. The small amount of Cabernet Franc amplifies the usual Margaret River herbal character without overwhelming the ripe, lush fruit profile. It's a big wine with fine tannins, but its balance is excellent, as it carries14.5% alcohol effortlessly. Sadly, production was limited to two barrels--50 cases--but the wine is worth a search. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz Leston Vineyard 2003 ($23, Opici Wine Co.): Howard Park produces this 100 percent Shiraz from Leston Vineyard, and its Scotsdale Shiraz from Mt. Barker (prime Riesling country) in the Great Southern.  The Leston is the better of the two, with good depth and concentration.  The '03 Leston is a beauty, with its earthy, spicy aromas and its firm, compact flavors, hinting of tart  black plums. Long, concentrated finish. 92 Ed McCarthy Nov 13, 2007

Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Leston Vineyard 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Company): This wine demonstrates the class and breeding of Margaret River Cabernets.  A subtle hint of mint and touches of licorice lend an exotic edge.  Plush and juicy, it not just fruit-filled, but has wonderful balance and great complexity. This is a serious Cabernet and a great buy! 92 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Prelude Vineyards 2014 ($29, Old Bridge Cellars):   New World Cabernet Sauvignons rarely achieve the degree of elegance and liveliness on the palate of the Leeuwin Estate Prelude Vineyards bottling.  Drawn from the gravelly soils and marine-influenced vineyards of Margaret River, the 2014 Leeuwin Estate reflects the classic style of the region.  Plush blackcurrant and blackberry fruit aromas are underscored by lovely nuances of violets, mint, vanilla, herbs and baking spices.  The flavors are lifted, layered and long with opulent black fruits enhanced by hints of coffee, herbs, clove and vanilla.  This is a beautifully balanced Cabernet that exhibits a remarkably refreshing style that others would do well to emulate.  Although very attractive now, the 2014 Leeuwin Estate Cabernet will develop added nuance and interest with another five years cellaring and more.  
92 Wayne Belding Apr 2, 2019

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Art Series" 1999 ($45, Old Bridge Cellars): This succulent wine offers not just fruit flavors but also hints of chocolate. Despite a slightly hot finish, it's a classy, complex wine. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($30, Negociants, USA): Very smooth, polished, and refined, this Cabernet offers ample proof that the Margaret River region of Western Australia is capable of producing elegant reds that belie most New World stereotypes.  The wine does not display any European-inspired earthiness, but it does offer grace and finesse reminiscent of fine French wines, and so has little in common with brawny bruisers from South Australia (and increasingly, northern California).  Delicious now, it surely will improve with a couple of years in bottle. 92 Paul Lukacs Jan 22, 2008

Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2004 ($35, Outback Red Imports): Owner Peter Fogarty says that this is his best wine. Made entirely from their estate-grown fruit, the Merlot component imparts an attractive herbal character that complements the overall juicy impression. It has an impressive, silky texture. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Flinders Bay, Margaret River (Western Australia) "Mayflower" 2003 ($17, The Australian Premium Wine Collection):

I've long been a fan of the Flinders Bay Shiraz, a wine that consistently over-delivers. The Mayflower, a blend of 60 percent Malbec and 40 percent Merlot, is cut from the same "value" cloth. This is a ton of wine for the money. The richness and voluptuousness of the Malbec component is seldom seen outside of Argentina, where Malbec thrives like nowhere else. The generous use of Merlot is meant to tame the hugeness of the Malbec and largely succeeds, though you will likely be amazed by the power and depth at this price. This one's loaded with layers of red fruits, plum and a hint of anise, shows firm acidity and smooth tannins.

Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Alexanders Vineyard 2012 ($20, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): The Franklin Tate Estate wines labeled Alexanders Vineyard are stunningly good.  I enthusiastically recommended their 2012 Syrah and am even more impressed by this Cabernet Sauvignon.  The immediately explosive nose prepares you for what follows. A savory herbal edges nicely offsets and complements dark fruit flavors.  The interplay between the two keeps evolving as the wine sits in the glass.  Despite its power and intensity, it maintains balance so it doesn’t come across as overdone.  Suave tannins make it an ideal choice for current drinking with hearty food.  It delivers far more than the price suggests.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013

Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Leston Vineyard 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Co.): As supple as a silk scarf, and every bit as elegant, this Aussie wine delivers a whiff of violets lurking beneath a layer of spice, eucalyptus and cedar.   Plums and blueberries warm the palate, and the texture is refined. 91 Marguerite Thomas Nov 4, 2008

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($35, Negociants USA): The strikingly beautiful Vasse Felix Estate is producing some of Western Australia's best Cabernet Sauvignons.  The '04 Vasse Felix Cab, with fruit sourced from Margaret River, Mount Barker and Frankland River vineyards, is a deep, rich wine, lean in style, with healthy acidity and tannins.  It has classic Cabernet aromas of cedar and lead pencil, with earthy fruit flavors. 91 Ed McCarthy Nov 13, 2007

Voyager, Margaret River (Western Australia) 2004 ($18, Serge Doré Selections, Ltd.): Voyager blended in a little Viognier into this bottling, which likely explains its lovely floral quality. A spicy and enticing black pepper component, along with great length and finesse, reinforces its similarity to wines from the Northern Rhône. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon "Circa 77" 2020 ($18, RWG USA):  This charming and restrained Cabernet is exactly the opposite of the heavy weight Cabernets coming from Australia or California.  This mid-weight wine delivers a seamless and balanced combination of spice, black, and red fruit notes.  The small (six percent) amount of Cabernet Franc in the blend announces itself by subtle and alluring leafy and herbal nuances and amplifies the wine’s charms.  Mild tannins and a taste profile that changes with each sip makes it a delight to drink now.  Those looking for California power will be disappointed.  Everyone else will embrace it.       
91 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2023

Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Diana Madeline” 2004 ($75, Old Bridge Cellars): Very dark and very serious, this wine is built for the long haul, but will also provide a lot of pleasure to those who cannot wait to dig in.  A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, it shows a pronounced herbal aromatic edge along with a minty note.  Both of these blend nicely with cassis and blackberry fruit, and a bit of smokiness and spice from oak rounds out a complex series of impressions.  Tannic but not overly astringent, this can be enjoyed now with food or aged for another decade. 90 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2007

Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($25, Outback Red Imports): The relatively warm location of this estate probably explains the wine's abundant cassis character and its more subtle herbal elements. Length and supple, ripe tannins make it an engaging wine even at this young age. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Evans and Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia) "Classic Red" 2003 ($14, Scott Street Portfolio): A blend of 2/3 Shiraz and 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon, this Classic Red is a great value. Filled with spice and plums, it is surprisingly complex for the price. Its suppleness is part of the charm. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2012 ($20, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group):  Typical of many of the wines from Western Australia, this one shows power without being overblown.  What’s especially intriguing is how the wine captures both major aspects of what Shiraz has to offer--a plumy fruitiness and a peppery gaminess.  Finely polished tannins allow you to enjoy it now.  It’s another good choice for that late summer grilled beef. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 3, 2013

Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Leston Vineyard 2005 ($27, Bluewater Wine Company): A more restrained style of Shiraz than the norm, this one from the Margaret River area marries herbal--even slightly minty--elements with plum-like flavors.  It delivers an alluring breadth of flavors over pure power. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Leston Vineyard 2003 ($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): Lovely cassis fruit, hints of chocolate and fine tannins combine to make this a juicy, fleshy wine. A great $20 value! 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Co.): Chile and South Africa may be the only places in the world where you might find a Cabernet with this much complexity and flavor at a reasonable price point like this.  The wine is full-bodied and generously flavored, yet the ripeness is restrained, and the wine shows no overtly grapey character at all.  Notes of blackberries and blackcurrants are vivid and pure, with accents of smoke and spices and lend nice nuances around the edges.  Ready to drink now, this will nevertheless improve for another five years. 90 Michael Franz Nov 4, 2008

Juniper Crossing, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2005 ($35, Tom Eddy Wines): There is nothing remotely reticent about this juicy, fruit-filled wine, but at the same time there is nothing at all excessive or extroverted about it either.  It's instead deliciously harmonious.  All the elements--the primary plum and cherry flavors, the secondary pepper and spice, the well-defined but pliant tannins, and the tangy backdrop of acidity--are in delectable balance.  It's simply a delight to sip. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 1, 2008

Juniper Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($35, Tom Eddy Wines): A very classy Cabernet from the relatively cool growing region of Margaret River, this wine offers plenty of fruit, augmented with expressive secondary flavors as well as firm but unobtrusive tannins.  Impressively structured and balanced, it is ready to drink now but should age gracefully for five to ten years more. 90 Paul Lukacs Dec 18, 2007

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot "Adams Road" 2003 ($15, Negociants USA): Rich and supple, with some herbal elements, this wine reflects the interplay of sweet ripe fruit and slightly savory elements. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Watershed, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($19, America Uncorked): Delicious and spicy, showing intense aromas of raspberry and red currant, this is a lovely, remarkably well-balanced Shiraz from Margaret River, which is probably better known for its Cabernet than its Shiraz. This very sexy wine is fresh and lively on the palate, with a lingering berry finish that begs another sip. 90 Robert Whitley Oct 21, 2008

Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($25, Moet Hennessy USA): A delicious, thoroughly impressive wine and a very good deal to boot, this offers seriously concentrated and deeply flavorful fruit recalling intense blackberries and black raspberries, along with some spicy, minerally and leathery accents that offer real interest.  The ripeness and concentration suggest that the wine might be heavy, but it actually shows excellent acidity and very good integration. 89 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2007

Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “The Reserve” 2003 ($30, Scott Street Portfolio): This is a good example of Cabernet from the Margaret River area of Western Australia, a region known for producing more elegantly styled wines than the remainder of that continent.  A touch of mint and other herbal notes acts as an attractive condiment to the juicy fruit flavors, rather than overpowering them. Nicely polished tannins make it easy to enjoy now and uplifting black cherry acidity in the finish prevents it from being boring. 89 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Siblings” 2003 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars): You'll likely need to do a bit of searching for this wine, though it was still available at the wholesale level within the last year.  However, searching will be richly rewarded if you can track down a bottle, as this is a truly exemplary rendering of Shiraz from an Australian region with a cool climate that gives it a bright, fresh character.  The fruit notes bear a closer likeness to red raspberries than anything else, with a bit of cherry and a nice, peppery bite in the finish.  There's only the faintest whiff of wood in the finish, and consequently the overall impression is one of great purity, though time in bottle is now providing some interesting secondary aromas. 89 Michael Franz May 27, 2008

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz "Art Series" 2003 ($30, Old Bridge Cellars): This very stylish wine features pure, elegant notes of dark berries and black cherries, with a quite polished feel and extremely subtle oak.  Some lovers of the big, overt Barossa style may find this underwhelming, but I found it extremely tasteful and versatile thanks to its restraint and balance.  I tasted it a second time 24 hours later from the uncorked bottle, and it hadn't suffered a bit, actually showing even more depth of flavor than the first night.  So there's no lack of power here--just an unusual degree of refinement. 89 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2007

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2003 ($30, Negociants, USA): A supple and very accessible Shiraz, showing bright plum and berry-flavored fruit, a kiss of sweet oak, and a hint of spice in the finish.  Though lacking the peppery complexity of top Rhône renditions of this varietal, it manages to exhibit some of the refined subtlety that is a hallmark of those wines. 89 Paul Lukacs Apr 22, 2008

Watershed, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2003 ($18, America Uncorked / Tempe Reichardt): Gentle rather than brutish in style, this Shiraz still packs plenty of clout with lots of dark cherries and blackberries, licorice, black pepper and other spices.  Fine tannins add richness to this attractive wine, and if given a few more years in the bottle it will undoubtedly develop further character. 89 Marguerite Thomas Dec 12, 2006

Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Trinders” 2003 ($18, Moet Hennessy USA): Very concentrated and intense, this will not strike you as a bottle of wine meriting only $18.  Extremely expressive aromatics start with a big shot of eucalyptus up front, but this minty note does not overwhelm the fruit, which shows notes of blackberry and black plum, with impressive depth of flavor.  A pleasant, faintly earthy streak shows some emerging bottle bouquet, and the wine's weight is just right for counterbalancing the tannin in the finish. 88 Michael Franz Mar 25, 2008

Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) "Mangan" 2004 ($42, Young's Market): A fascinating blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Petit Verdot, this purple, inky wine looks huge, but actually is more like an intense, juicy Dolcetto with fine tannins and great character. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($26, Artemis Wines International): The usual--for Margaret River--delightful combination of ripe fruit and herbs buttressed by excellent structure marks this very nice wine. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006

Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Leston Vineyard 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Co.): Margaret River is a region in Western Australia renown for its red wines.  This Shiraz was tank fermented then pressed off into French oak barrels for 18 months of aging.  Deep inky in color, the nose shows ripe plums and cherries, while the textured flavors are deep and fruity, with brisk acidity and substantial fine tannins.  This juicy wine will develop more complexity with additional bottle aging. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 1, 2008

Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Leston Vineyard 2005 ($25, Bluewater Wine Co.): Extended maceration, followed by 18 months in new and used French oak barrels gives this Cabernet Sauvignon texture, weight and fullness.  The color is a deep ruby and the aromatics are intense with blackberry and tobacco notes.  The flavors are brisk and fruity, with ample refined tannins, but there is noticeable heat in the finish.  Although drinkable now, with a few years bottle age, this Cabernet will meld its various components into a more harmonious wine. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 15, 2008

Juniper Crossing, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2005 ($35, Tom Eddy Wines): This nicely balanced wine has plenty of vibrant acidity to complement the ripe black cherry fruit.  More concentrated and deeper than many Shiraz from Western Australia, it still captures the finesse and complexity characteristic of wines from that region. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008

Watershed, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2004 ($20, America Uncorked):

Richer and riper than many Margaret River reds, so more obviously fitting the stereotypical Aussie profile of muscular wines.  Still, this Cab / Merlot blend finishes on a gentle, even gentile note and never seems jammy or hot.

Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($18, Scott Street Portfolio): The Margaret River area is justifiably known for the elegance of its wines compared to those from other parts of Australia.  This Shiraz fits that mold.  Mint and nuances of other herbal flavors complement the primary juicy black fruit impression of this mid weight wine.  Easy to drink--the fine tannins don't intrude--lively acidity balances its overall succulence. 87 Michael Apstein May 20, 2008

Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2005 ($20, Scott Street Portfolio): Shiraz from the Margaret River in Western Australia tends to taste leaner and more sinewy than wine made from the same grape elsewhere Down Under.  This wine certainly fits that bill, offering none of the lush character that seems typical of South Australian Shiraz, but instead being angular, almost to the point of leanness--a more old-fashioned and Old World-inspired flavor profile, to be sure. 87 Paul Lukacs Jan 6, 2009

Watershed, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2004 ($19, America Uncorked): I'm not one to sit around sipping a red Bordeaux blend at the cocktail hour, but this one would be mighty tempting if such a situation presented itself. This is a serious wine with all the trappings of a quaffer, including plush, ripe fruit and soft, sweet tannins. The nose is complex red berry fruit with a hint of eucalyptus, and the palate is full-bodied without being overly substantial and heavy. Overall, quite a good drink. 87 Robert Whitley Oct 21, 2008

Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2012 ($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This Shiraz could be viewed as a second wine to Franklin Tate Estate’s impressive Alexanders Vineyard Shiraz.  More plumy than gamey, it delivers clean bright fruit without being overdone.  Ready to drink now, it would be a good choice for burgers on the grill.
85 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013

Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2012 ($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This fruit-forward Cabernet Sauvignon blend focuses on plumy flavors sprinkled with a subtle herbal quality.  Supple tannins allow immediate enjoyment.  It’s a balanced wine with enough stuffing to stand up to steak.
85 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013

Watershed, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet / Merlot / Shiraz 2004 ($17, America Uncorked): Fruity and soft, with flavors running to plum and blackberry, with a hint of anise. This wine is simple but very likeable, and a good companion for the likes of grilled brats and roasted fowl. 85 Robert Whitley Oct 21, 2008

Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia) “Magnan” 2005 ($40, Old Bridge Cellars): Admittedly impressive for intensity and structure, this blend remains rather hard and closed at its present state of evolution.  Made from 36% Malbec, 32% Petit Verdot and 32% Merlot, it offers a nice little whiff and first flavor of bright berry fruit (including both black and red berry notes), but the tannin and acidity quickly clamp down on the flavors.  My guess is that this will open in a couple of years to reveal a wine of high quality, but there's always a bit of a gamble involved in wines with this sort of hardness. 84 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2007

Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Great Southern, Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Kinnaird Vineyard Black Label 2003 ($45, multiple distributors): Less meaty than the 2001, presumably because it is younger and bottled under screw cap, it still has a hint of that lovely gamy quality. It's fresh, lush and juicy with a remarkable silkiness and elegance for its power. 95 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Great Southern, Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Kinnaird Vineyard Black Label 2001 ($45, multiple distributors): A single vineyard wine from the Mount Barker region of the Great Southern, this is a very appealing, cocoa-infused, meaty and lush style of Shiraz that is remarkably silky and long. Nicely evolved, it's lovely to drink now. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Peter Howland, Mount Barker (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Pine Lodge Vineyard 2004 ($35, Robert Whale Selections): I love all three of the current Shiraz releases from Peter Howland, but this is the clear pick of the litter by my lights.  Exotic aromatics are the prime attraction, with fantastic notes of eucalyptus and faintly earthy wild mushrooms on a solid core of dark berry fruit.  Little touches of spice and pepper in the finish lend added interest, and the very thought of this with a roasted leg of lamb sets me to salivating all over again. 92 Michael Franz Jul 3, 2007

Plantagenet, Mount Barker (Great Southern, Western Australia) Shiraz 2001 ($27, Robert Whale Selections): The Mount Barker sub-region has one of the coolest climates in all of Australia, and is producing extraordinary Riesling and Shiraz.  Plantagenet , located in Mount Barker, was the first winery established in Great Southern.   The '01 Mount Barker Shiraz has great concentration  and firm tannins, with spicy, dry-fruit flavors.  It is a fleshy wine, but is not overly fruity.  As evidence of its aging ability, I tried an '88 Mount Barker Shiraz at the winery; it had surprising depth, and was drinking beautifully. 92 Ed McCarthy Nov 13, 2007

Plantagenet, Mount Barker (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2003 ($35, Robert Whale Selections): This excellent wine shows lots of concentrated fruit an impressive depth of flavor, yet it is also quite intricate and nuanced.  The core fruit notes recall black and red berries, with nice little accents of smoke, pepper, spices and wild mushrooms.  The texture is also quite impressive, with just the right balance of softness and grip in the finish. 91 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2007

Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Western Australia) Shiraz 2005 ($22, Tom Eddy Wines): Despite its 14.5% alcohol, which it carries beautifully, Capel Vale's Shiraz bares little resemblance to the powerfully concentrated ones from the Barossa Valley. There is no lack of fruit flavor or weight here, but what impresses is the exotic spices, bacon fat, complexity and great length.  It's another example of captivating Western Australian Shiraz, one of that country's best-kept secrets. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008

Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Western Australia) Shiraz 2007 ($22, Vintage New World): Wines from Peter Pratten's Capel Vale property consistently fulfill the potential of Western Australia.  Pratten, a radiologist by training before entering the wine business, has spent his medical career crisscrossing Western Australia, and as a dividend developed a clear knowledge of what varieties grow best in each locale. This wine, from his regional series -- in this case the Mount Barker region -- ranks just below his extraordinary single-vineyard bottlings, which sadly are not readily available in the US.   An atypical Australian Shiraz, this one has attractive minerality and spice with less of the full-blown ripe fruitiness usually associated with that variety.  Despite weighing in at 15% alcohol, it is not overblown, but well balanced. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009

Fonty's Pool, Pemberton (Western Australia) Pinot Noir 2005 ($17, Opici Wine Co.): Fonty's Pool is one of the few Western Australia  wineries producing good Pinot Noir, and at a very good price.  The '05 Pinot Noir has aromas and flavors of black fruits, with racy acidity and highish (14%) alcohol.  It has good depth and concentration,  with true, ripe Pinot Noir flavors.  Quite delicious! 90 Ed McCarthy Nov 13, 2007

Salitage, Pemberton (Western Australia) Shiraz "Treehouse" 2003 ($15, Wines West): The Treehouse label is used for Solitage wines made from purchased fruit, usually from a single vineyard, within the Pemberton region. A nice balance of peppery and plumy flavors and a lovely finish makes this Shiraz a steal at the price. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006

Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($55, Bluewater Wine Company): Howard Park's most upscale bottling of Cabernet comes from a broad geographic area--Western Australia--as opposed to the smaller Margaret River or Great Southern appellation.  It reflects a desire to blend the best batches regardless of origin.  The combine the multifaceted character of Cabernet--cassis-like fruit and herbal, non-fruit flavors--harmoniously in this elegant and silky wine.  Quite polished, it is not the typical 'in-your-face' Australian wine. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

Frankland Estate, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz Isolation Ridge Vineyard 2009 ($40, Quintessential): Enticingly complete and complex, with echoes of savory herbs alongside sweet spice in the finish, this is an extremely satisfying red.  Full-bodied, it also is finely balanced and quite nuanced, so offers much more than simple power.  Its taut tannins and piquant acidity suggest that it should have many years of life ahead of it.
92 Paul Lukacs Mar 31, 2015

Hope Estate, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz “The Ripper” 2017 ($20):  From a vineyard within the Donnybrook sub-region, this Shiraz comes with all of the swagger its name implies, but shows just enough complexity to remind you it is wine, not a fruit bomb.  Dark colored and loaded with blackberry fruit along with hints of mocha and tapenade, it is plush, round and one big, generously flavored wine.  It finishes with powerful black fruit, light oak and just enough acidity to provide sufficient structure.  Loyal Shiraz fans will take to this one, but newcomers should be braced for the ripper effect.       
92 Norm Roby Feb 7, 2023

Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Cabernet-Merlot-Cabernet Franc 2004 ($14, Bluewater Wine Company): Western Australia's Margaret River and Great Southern are cool-climate growing areas, producing clearly focused, fruit-driven wines.  This Bordeaux-style blend, relying mainly on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a hint of Cabernet Franc, has a brilliant deep plummy-red color, bright cherry-berry aromas and fresh dark fruit flavors, with traces of cedar. This wine shows great expression of fruit in a balanced blend. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 9, 2007

Peter Howland, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz Langley Vineyard 2004 ($35, Robert Whale Selections): I've been paying particularly close attention to wines from Western Australia during the past year, and with each passing month I am more impressed.  The three current release Shiraz bottlings from Peter Howland are all seriously delicious and dramatically different from one another.  This bottling shows very bright acidity and great linear drive to the flavors, which recall fresh blackberries with a nice little peppery kick in the finish. 90 Michael Franz Jul 3, 2007

Plantagenet, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 'Omrah' 2009 ($15, Old Bridge Cellars):  Founded in 1974, Plantagenet was the first winery in the Great Southern Region of Western Australia.  They are well known for their stunning Rieslings, which develop beautifully with bottle age and are among Australia’s best.  Less well-known is their second label, Omrah, which represents great value.  This Sauvignon Blanc delivers an engaging creamy smokiness, reminiscent of some Chardonnays.  But the bright flinty and herbal notes of Sauvignon Blanc speak plenty loud.  They’ve managed to imbue the wine with body and roundness without losing any of the vivacity or zestiness of Sauvignon Blanc.  If this is a “second” wine, I can’t wait to taste their first. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Plantagenet Wines, Western Australia (Australia) Pinot Noir "Omrah" 2007 ($17, Old Bridge Cellars):  Plantagenet is in Western Australia’s Great Southern wine region, which seems at the end of the world…and it is!  Pinot Noir grapes with intense flavors, grown on the Rocky Horror (don’t you love that name?) and Bouvray Vineyards give this wine depth and lots of character.  There’s nothing funny, though, about this Pinot’s medium-deep ruby color, forward berry aromas with earthy back notes that mingle with traces of road tar.  The aromatics lead nicely to sweet fruit, firm tannins and texture, ripe raspberry, refined tannins, 14% alcohol and a long supple finish.  This is a good value Pinot. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 27, 2010

Goundrey, Western Australia () Shiraz 'Offspring' 2003 ($16, R.H. Phillips): Bright raspberry aromas give this Shiraz from Western Australia enormous appeal. It is young and in need of time to open in the glass after the cork has been pulled, but a little bit of air will have tremendous impact on your impression of the wine. 89 Robert Whitley Apr 26, 2006

Houghton, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($15, Centerra Wine Company): A delicious because balanced and harmonious expression of Shiraz, with plenty of ripe fruit at the forefront, and appealing spicy, peppery secondary notes that add interest in the finish.  Reds from Western Australia, when contrasted with those from other Down Under wine regions, tend to be marked by finesse as much as muscle.  This is a fine example of that style, at a quite reasonable price. 89 Paul Lukacs Dec 12, 2006

Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($14, Bluewater Wine Company): Shiraz is the iconic red wine of Australia and the Western Australia version is a little leaner than the lush South Australia Shiraz.  This is a vibrant wine with dense layered blackberry and cedar aromas and flavors, bracing cool-climate acidity and a compact finish. While it's drinking nicely now, this Shiraz will benefit from a few more months in bottle. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 9, 2007

Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Mad Fish, the second label of the well-regarded Howard Park Wines, consistently offers good values.  This harmonious Shiraz combines the peppery with the plumy flavors that that grape delivers.  Keeping with its Western Australian origins, it is not an in-your-face kind of wine.  Soft tannins make it easy to drink now. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007

Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Cabernet-Shiraz 2004 ($14, Bluewater Wine Company): Cabernet Sauvignon dominates this traditional Aussie blend, but the fruit-focused Shiraz gives the wine lift and dimension. The color is deep purple-red and the tight nose has shy hints of dark fruits.  The lift comes on the palate, supported by big tannins, crisp acidity and dense fruit.   A pleasant drink, but a little hard and tight for
a drink-now wine. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 9, 2007

Omrah, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004 ($16, Robert Whale Selections): Gorgeous fruit notes of black and red raspberries lead the way in this wine, which draws added interest from a peppery edge in the finish.  Tannins are satisfying but not harsh or bitter, and the fresh, fruity profile will please novices without seeming overly simple to experienced tasters. 87 Michael Franz Dec 5, 2006

The Wishing Tree, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2005 ($10, The Australian Premium Wine Collection):

This is an Impressive wine for the price, offering good palate weight and a modicum of depth uncommon for under $10. This one's spicy, shows complexity of red and black fruit aromas and a pleasing finish. This well balanced, bright Shiraz is superb for everyday drinking and would make a lovely house wine.

Rosé:

Chalice Bridge, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Wild Rose” 2006 ($18, Vinum Global): This blend of Shiraz (Syrah), Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon yields a wine with a hot electric pink color, vivid strawberry and spice aromatics, and forward berry-rich flavors with an enticing herbal note.  Balanced with tart acidity and a touch of sweetness, it passes the 'lets-have-a-second-glass' test.  This is a delightful pink wine that works nicely as an aperitif and with light summer meals. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 17, 2008

White:

Rocky Gully, Frankland (Great Southern Region, Western Australia) Dry Riesling 2005 ($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): I particularly love the Rieslings from Western Australia because they are unique. Neither flowery in the Germanic tradition nor powerful in the Alsace style, they have a lacey feel about them with a clean citric edge. Protracted sunshine (the Frankland area receives over 300 days of sunshine annually) combined with the cooling influences from the ocean explains how the grapes ripen slowly, but fully, and retain their acidity. Rocky Gully's Dry Riesling fits that mold nicely. Its refreshing limey character makes it equally attractive as an aperitif or with roast pork. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006

Frankland Estate, Frankland River (Western Australia) Riesling “SmithCullam” 2012 ($65, Quintessential): This rare wine (only 600 bottles made) is striking for its quality and also a departure from the general stylistic profile of the producer’s Rieslings.  It is quite notably sweeter than the others, but that fact could be terribly misleading if taken out of context, for two reasons:  The other Rieslings are among the driest-seeming in the world, and this wine will barely taste sweet at all to most who try it.  With only 9 grams per liter of residual sugar, this would pass muster as a dry wine under German wine law, and with a very high 8.9 grams per liter of total acidity, the sugar comes across entirely as fruit flavor, and very fresh flavor at that.  Complex aromas are very appealing, but it is the flavors and finish of the wine that really make it a standout, with stone fruit and citrus flavors and terrific tension between subtle sweetness and energetic acidity keeping everything in perfect balance through the 30 second-long finish.  Expensive, one must admit, but undeniably superb.
95 Michael Franz Aug 6, 2013

Frankland Estate, Frankland River (Australia) Riesling Poison Hill, Single Vineyard 2017 ($35, Quintessential Wines):  This beautiful winery in Western Australia has a long and glorious track record with dry Riesling.  The 2017 Poison Hill is a glowing reference point, showing complex aromas of lime zest, green tea and spice.  Impeccably made and beautifully balanced, it’s a winner whether you drink it now or wait a few years until the secondary aromas that come with age elevate it to another level altogether.  
94 Robert Whitley Feb 26, 2019

Frankland Estate, Frankland River (Western Australia) Riesling Isolation Ridge Vineyard 2012 ($40, Quintessential): Frankland Estate makes world-class Rieslings that generously repay ageing.  This striking wine from the Isolation Ridge Vineyard is uncompromisingly dry and rather austere at this early stage in its development, showing subtle floral aromas and intense citrus flavors that are energized by very intense, driving acidity.  Its general profile is marked almost entirely by this linear drive, rather than sensory breadth or depth, though past vintages demonstrate that both of those characteristics will develop with time.  You’d likely find this to be a terrific match with freshly shucked oysters of a briny variety, but this is really best laid down for at least a few years or as many as 10 to 15.  Those seeking a Frankland Estate Riesling to try today would be better off with the bottlings from the Netley Road or Poison Hill Vineyards than this wine or the Rocky Gully Vineyard, which is also eye-poppingly intense.
93 Michael Franz Aug 6, 2013

Frankland Estate, Frankland River (Western Australia) Riesling Poison Hill Vineyard 2012 ($35, Quintessential): I love all of the Rieslings from Frankland Estate, though for different reasons.  All of them except the SmithCullam are dead dry and wonderfully age-worthy, with terrific acidity and laser-like focus.  This bottling from the Poison Hill Vineyard is the most mineral of the set, with expressive floral aromas and lovely citrus fruit notes recalling lemons and limes.  Although the flavors are more open and generous at this early stage than the Rieslings from Isolation Ridge or Rocky Gully, buyers should still be aware that this is a very intense wine that will really benefit from a couple of years in the cellar to soften and develop even more aromatic complexity and minerality for the finish.  Still, this would be terrific with shellfish or a simple preparation of white-fleshed finfish with a spritz of lemon, or with salads prepared with a zesty vinaigrette dressing.
93 Michael Franz Aug 6, 2013

Frankland Estate, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling Isolation Ridge 2005 ($20, Wildman): Rich, dry, lean-style Riesling.  The Frankland Estate, from one of the best sub-regions of the Great Southern, has lots of slatey extract, balanced with firm acidity.  Outstanding wine, and a real value.  93
93 Ed McCarthy Oct 16, 2007

Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling "Cossack" 2005 ($17): The Cossack, named for the Cossack orchid, is one of Ferngrove's limited-production Orchid series. It features bright passion fruit and lime aromas, brisk linear acidity, layered floral and tropical fruit flavors. With a long, crisp finish, it offers strong temptations to enjoy more than one glass of this outstanding Riesling. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Ferngrove, Frankland River (Australia) Riesling "Cossack" 2006 ($25, Ferngrove, USA): You might well raise an eyebrow at an asking price of $25 for a Riesling from Australia, but this wine is complete, convincing, and downright delicious.  Expressive floral aromatics work beautifully with fruit components recalling peaches, mangoes and limes.  The acidity is prominent and very refreshing without being sour or harsh.  Great now, but destined for two decades of further development. 92 Michael Franz Dec 5, 2006

Frankland Estate, Frankland River (Western Australia) Riesling Netley Road Vineyard 2012 ($35, Quintessential): Of the various current release Rieslings from paragon producer Frankland Estate, this is probably the most generous of the lot.  That’s only true in context though--it is still a very taut wine that can improve for a full decade; it just isn’t quite piano-wire-taut, like the Isolation Ridge and the Rocky Gully.  The bouquet is still rather restrained, but light floral notes are very appealing, and the flavors of lime and Granny Smith apple are delicious if still subtle, with lots of inner energy from ripe acidity.  If you opt to drink this in the next year or two, let the wine come up toward room temperature for 10 minutes or so before serving, which loosens its aromas and flavors considerably.
92 Michael Franz Aug 6, 2013

Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon "Symbols" 2006 ($15, Ferngrove, USA): With the green-gold highlights of polished jewels, this Chard is as lovely to look at in the glass as it is to taste.  It fills the mouth with melon and grapefruit flavors, and finishes on a clean, fresh note. 90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 12, 2006

Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia) Riesling "Cossack" 2007 ($22, Total Beverage Solution):

Beautiful fruit (citrus and apple) flavors with more than a whisper of minerality characterize this Riesling, which just misses a 90-plus-point score due to its somewhat muted bouquet.  I wonder if it was suffering from bottle shock when I opened it, as I have had past vintages of 'Cossack' in which the aroma was opulent.  If so, my score is too conservative.

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia) Riesling 2005 ($20): Riesling is beginning to get more play in Western Australia as producers reach well south of Margaret River into the Great Southern region, a cool area that is benefits from the marine influence of the nearby Southern Ocean. The young Rieslings of this region are almost always fermented bone dry and deliver engaging acidity along with a strong lime/citrus personality and palpable minerality. The Howard Park is easily one of the finest of an exceptional vintage from this part of the world. 93 Robert Whitley Oct 24, 2006

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Chardonnay 2007 ($21, Old Bridge Cellars):  This terrific, high-value Chardonnay hovers near the line dividing medium- and full-bodied, showing satisfying richness but also a lot of freshness, lift, and linear energy.  There’s a core of fruit recalling ripe peaches and baked apples, with a zesty edge of citrus lending definition and cut to the finish, which also shows a subtle mineral undertone.  Light enough to flatter a simply prepared fish fillet but sufficiently gutsy to work with scallops or grilled tuna or--for that matter--white meats like pork or veal, this is an exemplary wine at the table as well as a deeply satisfying sipper.
93 Michael Franz Dec 27, 2011

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2008 ($17, Old Bridge Cellars): This wine is almost always very, very taut and tight in its youth, but then unwinds slowly to reveal additional complexities for at least a decade.  The 2008 is still quite austere, especially when first opened and fully chilled, but even at this tender age it shows much more body, depth and dimension if one lets it warm a bit and get some air.  (Many think it absurd to decant white wines, but it is not, and this wine can prove the point if you give it a try.)  Lemon and lime fruit notes--along with a green apple backnote--are very pleasant, though they only poke out briefly before the strikingly intense acidity takes over the wine’s palate impression.  Yet, as the wine warms and breathes, the fruit lasts longer and the acid arrives later in every sip, taking the overall impression from that of a very austere wine to a remarkably generous one over time. 92 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2009

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2006 ($15, Robert Whale Selections): The Plantagenet Winery is in the heart of the Mt.  Barker sub-region, perhaps the best area in the Great Southern for Riesling.  The 2006 has intense aromas and flavors of lime, high acidity, and low alcohol.  It is fairly light-bodied, as are most of the 2006 wines in WA.  A lovely Riesling. 92 Ed McCarthy Oct 16, 2007

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2006 ($25, Opici Wine Company): Howard Park's main winery is in Margaret River, but it produces its Rieslings at its Great Southern winery.  I was treated to a vertical selection of its Rieslings going back to 1988, most of which were super and aging very well.  The 2006, its current vintage, is dry, spicy, with high acidity (coolest vintage in 50 years), lots of grapefruit skin aromas, and good length.  A light, elegant Riesling. 91 Ed McCarthy Oct 16, 2007

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2007 ($25, Bluewater Wine Co.): When kudos are handed out for Aussie Riesling, the praise is usually for wines from Claire or Eden Valley in South Australia.  However, Western Australia's renditions, especially the Great Southern Rieslings, are equally good, if not as well known among American wine drinkers.  Howard Park's entry is crisp, clean, floral and finishes with enticing tangerine flavors.  The balance is tangy with mouthwatering acidity coupled with bright clean fruit.  This lovely Riesling drinks nicely now but will adds complexity with bottle age. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 1, 2008

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2008 ($21, Old Bridge Cellars):  Plantagenet has been a serious player in Western Australia since the late 1960s.  The original plantings in the remote Great Southern included Chardonnay, a varietal not that well known in WA in those days.  Aged for nine months in French oak, this Chardonnay has a brilliant light gold color, lovely peach and citrus aromatics, dry full-fruit flavors, subtle oak notes, 13.8% alcohol and good length.  Crisp and clean with balanced oak and fruit, this is a very nice Chardonnay at an affordable price. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 9, 2011

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2007 ($18, Robert Whale Selections): This wine is always very taut and tight when first released, but bottles that are given a couple of years to unwind can develop marvelous intricacy and join the ranks of Australia's best renditions of this great grape.  Although this new release is just beginning to show its stuff, it exhibits excellent balance and integration of its aromatic and flavor components, with fruit, minerality and acidity all symmetrically attuned to one another.  Already excellent, this wine's track record suggests that it will be phenomenal by 2010 and will continue to improve for another five years after that. 91 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2008

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2006 ($18, Robert Whale Selections): You may not be accustomed to waiting for your unoaked white wines to wait for three or four years to hit their stride, but that is what you'll need to do to get this wine to live up to the score that I've given it (with confidence).  Plantagenet's Rieslings are almost unbelievably tightly wound in their youth, showing lemon/lime and green apple fruit from behind a wave of intense acidity.  After a couple of years, the fruit starts to unwind and the acidity relaxes a bit, letting mineral notes emerge, and after five or six years, they become marvelously intricate wines that rival the world's best dry Rieslings.  If you'll be patient with this, you'll be richly rewarded. 90 Michael Franz Aug 14, 2007

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005 ($15, Robert Whale Selections): The Frankland River and Great Southern regions within Western Australia are two of the world's best but least known sources for superb dry Riesling.  This bottling is bone dry but nevertheless very satisfying, with subtle notes of flowers, lemons, limes and green apples.  Still a bit taut but wonderful with oysters or light preparations of fish, this will not only last but improve for up to a decade.
90 Michael Franz Dec 5, 2006

Robert Oatley, Great Southern (Australia) Riesling 2012 ($17, Robert Oatley Vineyards, Inc): Though a relatively new label, Robert Oatley has been an important part of the Australian wine industry for decades.  He founded Rosemount, one of Australia’s most successful and reliable producers, before he sold that winery.  Judging from this and other wines in his line, consistency remains his hallmark. This invigorating dry Riesling demonstrates why the Great Southern region of Western Australia is renown for that varietal.  Oatley has deftly combined a refreshing mouth puckering lime-like acidity with a great stoniness.  It’s a clean bright and piercing wine that will stand up to and enhance spicy Asian cuisine or be a lovely counterpoint to seafood bathed in a buttery sauce.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2013

Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Chardonnay 2006 ($30, Bluewater Wine Co.): This fresh, clean Chardonnay is made in a style that fits with many types of food.  Barrel fermented, sans malolactic, the wine is crisp and creamy but without the oily-buttery texture that makes many Chardonnays heavy and awkward.  The flavors are bright and citrusy, with a hint of roasted nuts.  It finishes clean and crisp, with lingering fruit.  Age this wine for few more years. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 1, 2008

Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005 ($15, Robert Whale Selections): Aromatic orange blossom notes are lent additional interest by with spicy accents. The flavors lean more toward a citrus peel character, suggesting grapefruit, with a pleasant honeyed backnote. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Cullen Wines, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Chardonnay “Kevin John” 2007 ($75, Old Bridge Cellars):  This wine rings up at $75, which will give you pause, but it also out-performs most Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines from Burgundy and Chablis.  It shows phenomenal focus and linear energy, and in this sense is closely akin to a great rendition of Puligny-Montrachet or Grand Cru Chablis.  It isn’t as intensely mineral as those two categories, but makes up for that with compelling fruit flavors that recall snappy green apples and white nectarines, with a lemony edge that rides through the finish, which is almost unbelievably persistent.  I tried the wine again a day later (after leaving it open and warm overnight), and with 10 minutes of re-chilling, it showed identically to how it tasted immediately after opening.  This is one of the five best New World Chardonnays that I've ever tasted.
98 Michael Franz Dec 27, 2011

Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012 ($200): I first tasted Cloudburst wines last year and was enthralled by them.  I figured owner/winemaker Will Berliner either had beginner’s luck or was a visionary.  Now that I’ve tasted another vintage of his Chardonnay, Cabernet and, now, Malbec, it is clear that his talents are not explained by beginner’s luck.  The 2012 Chardonnay is dazzling -- not because of its power, though it has that -- but because of its sleek racy profile.  Its power sneaks up on you.  A subtle refinement and extraordinary length makes it dazzles.  Not a muscular wine, there’s a warming touch of brioche -- perhaps a hint of hazelnut -- and balancing vivacious acidity that keeps it fresh.  What fascinates me is its graceful persistence.  It’s not flamboyant, but one sip tells you it’s a great wine.
96 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2014

Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2013 ($225): It’s worth repeating:  Will Berliner, winemaker and owner of Cloudburst, his tiny estate in Western Australia’s Margaret River, turns out consistently superb Chardonnay, in addition to his stellar Cabernet Sauvignon, despite his lack of formal winemaking training. There’s a Burgundian Grand Cru sensibility about this 2013 Chardonnay:  Engaging toastiness that is replaced by minerality and fruitiness as it sits in the glass and blossoms.  It reveals itself slowly, forcing you to think about the wine.  It packs enormous flavor without a trace of heaviness.  Fresh and energetic, it will make you revisit your opinion of “Australian Chardonnay.”
96 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2016

Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2011 ($150): Cloudburst is a new venture started by Will Berliner, an American who’s married to an Australian.  He entered the wine business serendipitously after he and his wife purchased a beautiful tract of land and house in the Margaret River area.   Intent on planting something to block a view of a nearby highway, he planned on avocado trees, but consulted an agronomist who, after considerable research, suggested that the land was ideal for grapes.  Judging from this Chardonnay, the agronomist was correct.  This, his second vintage, has all the finesse and power of a grand cru white Burgundy.  Creamy, and toasty, yet restrained and not overblown, he attributes its complexity to using more wild yeast.  A lovely delicacy and an extraordinary finish make it an exciting wine.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2013

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay "Art Series" 2002 ($65, Old Bridge Cellars; Winebow): Leeuwin Estate has the reputation of making arguably the best Chardonnays in Australia.  I'm a believer.  Its 2002 Art Series, which is still available in the U.S., is a classic Chardonnay: rich, complexly flavored, and powerful, with a long finish. One of the best Chardonnays I've tasted all year.  Leeuwin's 2005 Chardonnay Art Series, by the way, is almost as good. 95 Ed McCarthy Nov 13, 2007

Cherubino, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012 ($36): Margaret River, one of the great surfing destinations in the world, also is home to some fairly amazing wines. Cherubino fits right in, and this exceptional Chardonnay is the evidence. On the nose it shows notes of vanilla, pear and spice. But it's on the palate that this Chardonnay sings, with an inviting nuance of lemon oil, ripe pear and baked apple. Well balanced with tremendous length and a lingering finish that begs another sip. 94 Robert Whitley Apr 21, 2015

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012 ($21, Negociants USA): The cooling maritime influences from the Indian and Southern Oceans explain why Western Australian wines differ from those of South Australia, the country’s major wine producing state.  The cooler growing season allows grapes more time to ripen and develop complex flavors resulting in wines with great refinement, as exemplified by Vasse Felix’s stunning 2012 Chardonnay.   Vasse Felix, who early on recognized the uniqueness and potential of Western Australia for wine and is considered one of the region’s pioneer producers, is probably best known for their Cabernet Sauvignon.  This Chardonnay shows they are not a one-horse show. It has it all, a touch of creaminess, subtle and restrained fruitiness, a hint of oak and great vibrancy.  It’s a long and refined wine -- at a bargain price for what it delivers.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2014

Capel Vale, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2007 ($22, Vintage New World): Looking for an excellent $20 Chardonnay?  Look no further. If your image of Australian Chardonnay is that of an oaky blockbuster, this wine will change your perception.  The Margaret River area of Western Australia has the potential to produce some of Australia's most elegant wines and this one's a good example. Ethereal smoky and creamy nuances complement the restrained notes of tropical fruit.  This beautifully balanced wine has a suaveness and finesse enhanced by vibrant acidity that keeps it fresh throughout the meal. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009

Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2005 ($30): This trademark white blend of the Margaret River region in Western Australia is exceptional in the hands of Vanya Cullen, though she is best known for her brilliant Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons. The beauty of this Sauvignon Semillon is in its exceptional balance. Though bright and refreshing, a slightly oily texture and mouthfeel tame any rough edges from the ample acidity. There is an appealing thread of minerality and the subtle aroma of dried herbs behind the ripe citrus fruit aromas that change personality by the minute as the wine warms in the glass. 92 Robert Whitley Oct 24, 2006

Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Chardonnay Stellar Ridge Vineyard 2005 ($65, Scott Street Portfolio): I was stunned by the quality of top bottlings of Chardonnay from Western Australia while travelling there recently, and this wine was one of the best of the best.  Driven by peach fruit notes that are pure and extremely expressive, this shows full ripeness but no obvious sweetness, with balance lent by subtle notes of woodsmoke and spices.  Malolactic fermentation was blocked, leaving lots of refreshing acidity to focus the wine and lift the finish, which has a slight creaminess but remains very pure and refreshing. 92 Michael Franz Dec 19, 2006

Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay Stellar Ridge Vineyard 2005 ($50, Avanti Wines): Evans & Tate specializes in Chardonnay, producing four: a standard, reserve, and two single-vineyard wines. Its '05 Stellar Ridge Vineyard and '05 Wildberry Springs Estate Chardonnays are indeed impressive. The '05 Stellar Ridge is rich and intensely concentrated, with its fresh apple fruit flavors balanced with crisp acidity.  Although it has 14.5% alcohol, it is so well-balanced and fresh, with a long finish, that it leaves a supple, understated impression on the palate. 92 Ed McCarthy Nov 13, 2007

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2006 ($18, Old Bridge Cellars; Winebow Brands International): Leeuwin Estate is esteemed for its Chardonnay, and rightly so, but I was surprised by the quality of its Riesling-made on its Margaret River Estate, by the way.  Its 2005 is the current vintage.  Leeuwin Estate's 2006 is richly flavored, with intense, piercing aromas of orange as well as lemon, excellent  acidity, and more mid-palate weight than Great Southern Rieslings.  According to proprietor Dennis Horgan, the grapes are picked early to insure freshness. 92 Ed McCarthy Oct 16, 2007

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Riesling “Art Series” 2012 ($22, Old Bridge Cellars): Leeuwin Estate, one of Western Australia’s best producers, is known for their stunning Artist Series Chardonnays.  Well, they now are also known for their Art Series Rieslings, judging by this stellar wine.  Dry and stony, the citrus tinged finish lingers seemingly forever.  Clean and pure, it cuts this summer’s heat and humidity, but would be equally welcome accompanying spicy Asian dishes in the fall.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2013

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling “Art Series” 2008 ($22, Old Bridge Cellars):  Since the harvest in the southern hemisphere occurs in the first half of the calendar year, this white wine is already more than three years old, yet it is only now beginning to come into its prime, which is likely to last for at least another five years.  Such is the amazing potential and proven quality of top-class Riesling from Western Australia, and though you may be a bit skeptical, the proof is only a twist of a screwcap away.  You’ll find fresh notes of flowers, tart apple, lime, tropical fruits, dried herbs, and a nascent minerality will become more prominent with time.  Delicious on its own but also very versatile at the table. 92 Michael Franz Jun 28, 2011

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Filius” 2017 ($21, Negociants USA):  Complex and vibrant, with a tightly woven acid structure and the bright, pure flavors of citrus, peach and pineapple, this is a Chardonnay well worth seeking out.  2017 was a relatively cool year and that no doubt contributed to the particularly succulent nature of the wine.  The wine is impeccably dry, and it is delicious with a range of foods:  I’ve recently enjoyed it on different occasions with pork egg rolls, seared scallops, and even fresh tomato toast garnished with whipped feta cheese.   
92 Marguerite Thomas Sep 17, 2019

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay Estate 2017 ($35, Winebow):  Vasse Felix is the pioneering winery in the Margaret River region.  Founded in 1967, Vasse Felix has become the iconic estate in this remote Western Australia site.  Their Chardonnays are a benchmark for the balanced Margaret River style.  For 50 years, Vasse Felix has produced wines that combine opulence of fruit with a rich texture and maintain a refreshing character.  The 2017 Vasse Felix Estate Chardonnay continues this successful tradition.  The bouquet is forward and enticing, with ripe apple, pineapple and citrus fruits underlain by intriguing floral and baking spice hints.  The flavors live up to the promise of the nose.  Lovely tropical fruit, apple and pear flavors are backed by hints of rich lemon, butter, vanilla and nutmeg.  It has a buttery and creamy texture that is enhanced by the lemon and subtle spice nuances that linger at the finish.  Its combination of richness and refreshment make it a great choice for your Thanksgiving dinner.     
92 Wayne Belding Nov 26, 2019

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling “Art Series” 2008 ($22, Old Bridge Cellars): Almost all of Wine Review Online’s contributing writers have traveled to Western Australia during the past few years, and almost all of us came away very impressed with the wines in general--but truly amazed by the Rieslings.  This is one of the region’s exemplary renditions, showing fresh citrus and tart apple fruit, along with a light mineral tinge and just a faint suggestion of fruity sweetness that serves to prevent the prodigious wine’s acidity from becoming overly tart.  This will prove very versatile with food and capable of years of positive development if left to age. 91 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2009

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  Leeuwin Estate owes its location in the Margaret River region of Western Australia to Robert Mondavi, who selected the site for owner John Horgan after an extensive search in 1972.  Portions of this blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon were fermented in barrel with the remaining parts in stainless steel tanks.  The color is a brilliant pale straw and the aromatics show hints of ripe melons and passion fruit.  Balanced with brisk acidity, the flavors have good texture and length and the wine finishes with good fruit and 12.5% alcohol.  The Aussies are very good at blending Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon and this is a good example. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 9, 2011

The Yard, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Semillon - Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($22, Vintage New World): Not everyone loves a Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend (go figure!) but I do--at least when it’s as pleasing as this one.   This wine has some of the refreshing grassy  aromas characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc, but it also boasts a deeply satisfying texture, attributable at least in part to having spent four months in new French oak.  The result is a silky, round wine that slides effortlessly down the gullet--and wakes up your palate a friendly slap of acid on the finish. 91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 11, 2009

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Chardonnay “Heytesbury” 2005 ($40, Negociants, USA): A supremely elegant Chardonnay, this wine marries New World opulence with Old World restraint, exhibiting full fruit flavors enhanced by hints of minerality and savory spice.  Give it time in glass or decanter to open, as its lusciously layered bouquet constitutes one of its primary charms. 91 Paul Lukacs Aug 12, 2008

Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon 2010 ($16, Möet Hennessy USA):  A vivacious white, filled with vivid citrus fruit flavors, this well-balanced wine seems ideal for warm-weather drinking.  Semillon grown pretty much everywhere else in the world adds weight and body to Sauvignon Blanc.  But in Margaret River and the rest of Western Australia, it somehow makes the latter variety taste even leaner and brighter than it would without it.  That’s definitely the case here.  The result is a supremely refreshing and enjoyable blend.   90 Paul Lukacs Jun 7, 2011

Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2006 ($19, Moet Hennessy USA): The cooling effects of the Indian and Southern Oceans (the latter of which laps at the shores of Antarctica) influence the wines from Western Australia.  The more temperate climate--compared to parts of South Australia--means the grapes rarely get overripe and hence, the wines show restraint and balance.  Cape Mentelle, one of the first wineries of Western Australia, has become a leader in that area since its founding in 1970.  Better known for their finely honed Cabernet Sauvignon, Cape Mentelle's Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend deserves more attention.  The lanolin-like smoothness imparted by Semillon complements and rounds out the Sauvignon Blanc without obliterating the latter's attractive bite.  It's a wonderfully balanced wine that marries a Chardonnay-like creaminess with the refreshing punch of Sauvignon Blanc. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2007

Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc - Semillon “Ephraim Clarke” 2010 ($35):  Vanya Cullen and her Cullen wines from Margaret River have a well-deserved reputation for uncompromising quality.  This blend of 66% Sauvignon Blanc and 34% Semillon amply displays the unique character that Australian winemakers get from Semillon.  A small part of this blend was aged for four months in French oak, giving the wine texture, while allowing the scents of ripe melon and bright mineral and citrus to come through in the nose and on the palate.  It has texture, ample fruit, 12% alcohol, structure and good length through the finish.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 27, 2012

Juniper Crossing, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($16, Tom Eddy Wines): SSB or SBS-depending on the primary grape-is a popular blend in Western Australia that deserves more recognition on our shores.  The Semillon fills out the Sauvignon Blanc without dominating it. The edginess of Sauvignon Blanc persists, especially in the finish, but there is a lovely softness and creaminess that comes through. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling “Art Series” 2009 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):  Riesling from Australia rarely gets the respect it deserves, and the reason for this is simple:  Far too consumers know how delicious and versatile with food it is for it to be respected at a level commensurate to its merits.  This delicious example might look a little old in the 2009 vintage from the southern hemisphere, but that is emphatically not the case, and indeed it is only now starting to hit its stride.  Ripe apple fruit and stone fruit notes vie for center stage, with citrus notes pitching in from the wings.  Although it is fresh and crisp and sharply defined, it is also quite generous in flavor and texture, and will work well with everything from lighter shellfish dishes to foods as robust as grilled tuna steak. 90 Michael Franz Dec 13, 2011

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) "Siblings" 2009 ($18, Old Bridge Cellars):  This seamless blend of roughly two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon harnesses the best of both grapes.  It has the bright herbal aspect of Sauvignon Blanc softened just a bit by the lanolin texture of Semillon. The Semillon rounds out the wine without obliterating the invigorating pungency of the Sauvignon Blanc.  With a stated alcohol of 12.5 percent, it’s slightly less ripe and fresher than many white wines, which makes it even more appealing. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 6, 2011

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Riesling "Art Series" 2004 ($19, Old Bridge Cellars): One of the most impressive things about top Rieslings is their ability to age so effortlessly, gaining nuances while retaining freshness.  Other age-worthy whites, Burgundies, for example, certainly become more complex with the passage of time, but they inevitably do so at the expense of vibrancy.  Good Riesling stays energetic.  This wine is three years old (an age when many other whites would be fading fast) and is beginning to show underlying secondary subtlety.  At the same time, it's still very fresh and lively.  If well-stored, it clearly has many years ahead of it. 90 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Moss Wood, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Semillon - Sauvignon Blanc Ribbon Vale Vineyard 2011 ($25, Epicurean Wines):  Viewed on a map, Margaret River looks a bit like a pig’s snout at the near most southwestern part of Australia.  It is surrounded by two oceans, the Indian and Southern.  Compared to other Aussie wine regions, Margaret River is a baby with commercial wines dating from the late 1960s. Bordeaux varieties are the stars here.   Moss Wood’s Ribbon Vale Vineyard produces the grapes for this classic blend of Semillon (62%) and Sauvignon Blanc (38%).  Semillon’s lush fig, pear and dried straw fruit is enhanced by Sauvignon Blanc’s herbal, citrus flavors and crisp acidity. 
90 Rebecca Murphy Sep 11, 2012

Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2014 ($18, Pacific Highway Wine and Spirits): Robert Oatley has been steadily improving in quality with each new vintage, and this fresh Chardonnay is a vibrant peach driven wine that has some palate weight but not so much that it becomes clumsy or overwrought.  Subtle oak spice, lemon crème and some loquat add complexity, and the finish lingers with peach and spice forward.  A nice value at this quality level!
90 Rich Cook Nov 17, 2015

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2021 ($46, Winebow):  Vasse Felix is one of the most respected wineries in Margaret River, as well as being one of the pioneers of this Western Australia region where all winemakers from around the world who are surfers would like to spend a harvest or two as stagiaires.  This Chardonnay is very enjoyable and a little less “buttery” than is generally the case, leading with mellow apple flavors followed by a tarter finish with lingering hints of minerality.       
90 Roger Morris Dec 12, 2023

Watershed, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Chardonnay Unoaked 2005 ($20, America Uncorked / Tempe Richardt): Many un-oaked Chardonnays seem hard and one-dimensional, but this one has satisfying palate weight and good length, all thanks to active pumping over, according to winemaker Cathy Spratt.  The wine furthermore is redolent of pure, summery peach and nectarine aromas and flavors unfettered by oak barrel elements. 90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 12, 2006

Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011 ($17, Moët Hennessey USA):  I’m always surprised that the SBS (as they’re known in Australia) wines aren’t as popular here as they are down under.  Cape Mentelle, one of Western Australia’s leading producers, made a particularly alluring one in 2011.  Its creamy luxurious side--Semillon speaking--is offset and balanced by a pleasant tang from the Sauvignon Blanc.  This perky wine is versatile, working equally well as an aperitif, with grilled fish or a bucket of steamers. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2012

Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Signature Series” 2013 ($15): Those who still think Australian Chardonnays are big and buttery need to try this restrained example from Western Australian, an area at the forefront of producing stylish and balanced wines.  With subtle green apple nuances, this linear wine captures your attention its vivacity.  It’s a great bargain.  Try it with grilled fish in the waning days of summer.
89 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2014

Juniper Crossing, Margaret River (Western Australia) Semillon / Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($20, Tom Eddy Wines):

Delectable because it's vibrant and vivacious.  Elsewhere in the world, Semillon adds flesh and an almost waxy quality to Sauvignon Blanc.  For some reason, in Western Australia it adds even more zesty character.  Try this wine with shellfish or sushi.

Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012 ($17, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): One of joys of Robert Oatley’s wines is that they clearly reflect regional character.  This Chardonnay from the Margaret River region in Western Australia is restrained just as you’d expect from that appellation.  It has an appealing whiff of oak that complements -- not overwhelms -- the inherent fruitiness.  This is a lovely, graceful Chardonnay from one of Australia’s top producers.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013

Thompson Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2004 ($27, Vino Tech):

A gentle, even gentile Chardonnay, with a light texture and lemony (lemon custard is more precise) flavors.  Drink this one with light fare, as richer dishes might mute its charm.

Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($14, Scott Street Portfolio): Lean and lively, this Sauvignon shows very bright, zesty fruit recalling grapefruit and lime, with nice aromatic nuances of dried herbs and freshly cut grass.  It is still impeccably fresh, thanks in part to its screw cap closure.  A great choice for raw oysters or almost any light dish involving shellfish. 87 Michael Franz Dec 18, 2007

The Yard, Mount Barker (Western Australia) Riesling Whispering Hill Vineyard 2007 ($25, Tom Eddy Wines):

An outstanding Riesling, hailing from the cool Mount Barker sub-region of the Great Southern in Western Australia, this wine shows beautifully pure citrus (mostly lemon and lime) flavors with a hint of apple, and a steely, mineral-laced finish.  It's lace-like in its delicacy, but there's nothing weak or insubstantial about it.  Instead, it lingers with remarkable depth.  Outstanding!

The Yard, Mount Barker (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling Whispering Hill Vineyard 2007 ($25, Vintage New World): Larry Cherubino, founder and winemaker at The Yard, has great experience finding top-notch vineyards in Western Australia since he was winemaker at Houghton's, the region's largest producer.  This dazzling Riesling reinforces what a great area Mt. Barker is for the varietal.  Cherubino's Whispering Hill Vineyard Riesling combines stoniness, a refreshing green-apple-like fruitiness with a lime infused finish in this wonderfully vibrant wine. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

The Yard, Mt. Barker (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling Whispering Hill Vineyard 2008 ($22, Vintage New World): This Riesling is as crisp and clean as an ocean breeze, yet it also has plenty of complexity.  With its soft, delicate texture and hints of wet pebbles and lemon-lime flavors, it’s a bottle of wine that is guaranteed to convey sheer hedonistic sipping bliss. 92 Marguerite Thomas Aug 11, 2009

Ad Lib Wallflower, Mt. Barker (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2008 ($17, Vintage New World): The Mt. Barker region in Western Australia yields extremely crisp, often bracing dry Rieslings.  They can be so tightly wound that they taste austere, even mean, in their youth.  This particular Riesling, however, is open and ripe, with fresh peach and apple flavors, and a satisfyingly long finish.  While it may not age as well as some others, it tastes great right now. 89 Paul Lukacs Jun 2, 2009

Robert Oatley, Pemberton (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($16):  This excellent wine shows the aromatic flash of Marlborough but then follows up with notably more palate weight and depth of flavor, finally finishing with an intense kick of citrus acidity.  Classic scents of cut grass and dried herbs work beautifully with fruit notes recalling grapefruit, lime and white melon.  Platinum award winner at the San Diego International Wine Competition. 92 Michael Franz Apr 5, 2011

Fonty’s Pool, Pemberton (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2007 ($13, Opici Wine Co.): Fonty's Pool was one of the most impressive wineries I visited in Western Australia, both for the overall quality of its wines and the natural beauty of its estate.  Pemberton is near the Indian Ocean, directly west of the Great Southern.   What a pleasure to drink this wine (63 percent Sauvignon, 37 percent Semillon) with its fresh, pure, delicate citrusy flavors and hints of snow peas, along with its bracing acidity! A great value as well; very good depth and concentration for a $13 wine. 90 Ed McCarthy Nov 13, 2007

Ad Lib, Pemberton (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17, Vintage New World):  This is a truly succulent wine--aromatic, juicy, flavorful.  It has classic grapefruit and lime peel elements, with minerality layered on plus a touch of white peach.  A dash of Semillon in the mix (5%) adds to the wine’s character and soft texture. 89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 13, 2009

Fonty's Pool, Pemberton (Western Australia) Chardonnay 'Single Vineyard' 2007 ($15): Fermented partially in wood and partially in stainless steel, this lovely quaffer from Western Australia is zesty and clean, exhibiting notes of grannysmith apple and wet stone, with solid acid backbone. When you want the weight of a chardonnay with the zip of a sauvignon, this is the ticket. 87 Robert Whitley Sep 1, 2009

Houghton Vineyards, Swan Valley (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2007 ($13, Centerra wine Co., Constellation Wines): Houghton is one of the oldest and largest wineries in Western Australia, and now a part of Constellation Wines.  As a result, its wines have excellent distribution throughout the U.S.  Although Houghton's main winery is in the Swan Valley, north of Perth, it sources its fruit from all over Western Australia.  For example, this fresh, lively '07 SBS has grapes from Frankland (in the Great Southern), Pemberton, and Margaret River.  Easy-drinking; one of the largest-selling wines in the country. 89 Ed McCarthy Nov 13, 2007

Frankland Estate, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling Netley Road Vineyard 2012 ($35, Quintessential Wines): Definitely dry, but without the mouth-puckering acidity that can make some Aussie Rieslings interesting to taste yet not especially pleasant to drink, this wine is beautifully balanced, with bright lime and other citrus fruit flavors, steely mineral-like notes in the finish, and an almost opulent bouquet.  It should age effortlessly for many years, but is downright delicious now.
92 Paul Lukacs Oct 21, 2014

Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2006 ($30, Bluewater Wine Company): Wines from Western Australia, including their Chardonnays, do not fit the conventional mold for Australian wines.  The Chardonnays in general, like this one, are leaner--yet still flavor packed--and racier compared to their South Australian counterparts.  Howard Park, one of Western Australia's top producers, has fashioned this wine with an almost Riesling-like vibrancy that complements the green appley flavors. There's an alluring hint of minerality and creaminess that appears with each sip.   Long and focused, this Chardonnay has a Burgundian-like sensibility and finesse. 92 Michael Apstein May 12, 2009

Frankland Estate, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling Isolation Ridge Vineyard 2012 ($40, Quintessential Wines): With the purity of ice and the steely power of a good chef’s knife, this is a wine for people who appreciate a bone dry, straight arrow interpretation of Riesling.  There is nothing flirtatious about it; the wine has no soft contours or honeyed elasticity.  On the contrary, it gets straight to the point with a thwack of acidity backed by ripples of subtly complex flavors.  It will surely mellow with age, but right now serious Riesling aficionados will love the thrills and chills Frankland Estate is providing here.
91 Marguerite Thomas Feb 25, 2014

Hazard Hill, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($12, Robert Whale Selections): This blend of 55% Semillon and 45% Sauvignon Blanc is a great value and a supremely versatile wine.  The varietal character of each of the two grapes is vividly apparent in both its aromas and flavors, with classic fig and candle wax notes from the Semillon providing bass notes that work beautifully with the citrus-based treble notes provided by the Sauvignon Blanc.  The balance between the two is just right, making this a refreshing drink on its own that also has enough substance to partner with almost anything from shellfish to moderately robust finfish dishes.  It was a little tight when I first tasted it in February, 2007, but is right on the button now, and thanks to its screw cap closure, will likely stay in great shape for another full year or more. 91 Michael Franz Aug 14, 2007

Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2007 ($25, Bluewater Wine Company): An impeccably balanced and extremely elegant wine, marked by lime and peach fruit flavors, mineral-tinged undertones, and a long, delectable finish.  Top-notch Western Australian Rieslings like this manage to offer rich, succulent flavor while remaining dry and harmonious.  They can hold their own with top renditions of the varietal made anywhere in the world. 91 Paul Lukacs Jun 10, 2008

Capel Vale, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling "Whispering Hill" 2004 ($25, Outer Cape Imports): The aromatics of this juicy Riesling show lime leaf with jasmine, while the flavors are more passion fruit balanced by crisp lemony acidity. This is a lovely single vineyard Riesling that, with age, will develop the toasty, kerosene notes of mature Riesling. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Houghton, Western Australia (Western Australia, Australia) Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($15, Centerra/Constellation): The blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc-commonly known as SSB-is the fastest growing white wine category in Australia, and if this Houghton offering (in which the sweetness of fresh, ripe fruit combines with a palate cleansing zip of acidity) is a fair representation of the genre, it's easy to understand its popularity. 90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 12, 2006

Houghton, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($15, Houghton Wines): Although Semillon comprises a majority portion of this blend at 57%, one would likely guess the opposite, as is often the case with these blends from Western Australia. The wine is satisfyingly substantial, with medium body but very flashy acidity that keeps it very fresh and focused. The aromas and flavors show lots of citrus and cut grass notes riding over the melon core from the Semillon. Long, balanced and complex, this is very impressive stuff. 90 Michael Franz May 9, 2006

MadFish, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2016 ($18, Winebow): Made in a lighter style than most, this Chardonnay tastes of peaches and golden delicious apples, with no overt oak influence, and plenty of crisp, even firm acidity for balance.  Tightly wound, it will gain complexity and generosity with exposure to air, whether in a decanter or swirled in your glass.
90 Paul Lukacs Aug 29, 2017

Robert Oatley, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18, Robert Oatley Vineyards): Comprised entirely of Sauvignon Blanc, the grapes for this zesty wine come from Margaret River, Pemberton and Frankland River in Western Australia.  Tank fermented to capture the fresh juicy flavors, the aromatics show tropical hints combined with grassy and citrus notes.  The flavors are balanced, crisp, with good length and the wine is finished at 12.5% alcohol. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 3, 2009

Houghton, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2005 ($15, Houghton Wines): I have no prior experience with wines from Houghton, but man, are we off to a good start now. This is an exceptionally enjoyable and intelligently crafted Chardonnay at this price, showing very nice aromas of peach and pineapple fruit with nice subtle accents of toast, nutmeg and vanilla. Beautifully balanced, it is substantial but fresh at once. 89 Michael Franz May 9, 2006

Houghton, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($15, Centerra/Constellation): This two-varietal blend-particularly when made from Western Australia fruit-has exploded in popularity across Australia.  And for good reason.  This wine features expressive aromatics and a fresh, zesty finish as though Sauvignon Blanc were the dominant component, but also the broad midpalate of a varietal Semillon.  The combination is thoroughly convincing and marvelously versatile with food. 89 Michael Franz Dec 5, 2006

Houghton, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2005 ($15, Centerra/Constellation): Western Australia and its various subregions are proving that they are among the world's best sources for Chardonnays that combine substance and richness with refreshing acidic structure.  This bottling shows nice tropical fruit with a peach component as well, along with a streak of citric acidity lending definition to the finish. 89 Michael Franz Dec 5, 2006

Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2006 ($30, Bluewater Wine Company): The word continues to spread in North America on the strength--and distinctiveness--of wines from Western Australia.  This is yet another case in point, and it shows the freshness and purity characteristic of so many wines from the relatively cool region, with moderate ripeness and fine acidity that gives this a real likeness to Chablis.  It doesn't show the minerality of Chablis, but is still extremely appealing, with fruit notes recalling pear and baked apple, with nice nutty accents from yeast lees and a subtle backnote of woodsmoke. 89 Michael Franz Oct 14, 2008

Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($14, Opici Wine Company): Howard Park produces lighter, more accessible Rieslings under its Mad Fish label.  They have the advantage of wide distribution and attractive pricing as well.  The 2006 has intense aromas of ripe, lemony fruit, with good concentration.  It is at a nice drinking stage right now. 89 Ed McCarthy Oct 16, 2007

MadFish, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($14, Bluewater Wine Company): MadFish wines represent the fresh, clean character of fruit from Western Australia's Margaret River and the Great Southern regions.  Straightforward and fruit focused, this Sauvignon Blanc is zesty, with loads of tropical fruit.  Crisp and clean, the acidity smacks of fresh lime juice and the fruit lingers through the finish.  MadFish Sauvignon Blanc is a worthy competitor in price and quality to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 4, 2007

MadFish, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($14, Bluewater Wine Company): When the topic of Australian Riesling comes up, it's usually about wines from South Australia's Clare Valley and Eden Valley.  Western Australia Riesling ranks right up there, as shown by this juicy, floral-scented wine. The aromatics are bright jasmine with hints of tropical fruit and subtle petrol notes.  It has good texture and a measure of fruit sweetness, leading to a dry crisp finish. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 4, 2007

Palandri, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($12, Palandri America): Crisp and refreshing, with vivid apple and peach flavors enhanced by more than a hint of minerality, this Riesling, while full-fruited, is deliciously dry.  Very fairly-priced, it should be extremely food friendly, and seems tailor made for springtime sipping. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 11, 2008

Plantagenet, Western Australia (Australia) "Omrah" 2009 ($15, Old Bridge Cellars):  Part of the juice for this crisp Sauvignon Blanc was barrel fermented and left on the lees for two months before back blending for increased mouth feel and complexity.  The color is a brilliant light gold and the aromatics offer citrus rind, vanilla and a subtle smoky note.  It’s bright and tangy, with grapefruit and light herbal notes, 13.5% alcohol and a long clean finish. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 7, 2011

Goundrey Off, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling "Spring" 2005 ($10, Constellation Wines U.S.): Although this wine carries a broad Western Australia appellation, it offers the citrus and mineral flavors of the Great Southern. Grapefruit rind scents lead to more citrus notes, but with a pleasant floral accent. The wine is tangy and has good length. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 15, 2006

Hazard Hill, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon/ Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($13, Old Bridge Cellars): A consistent winner from Western Australia, the 2008 rendition of this vivacious white blend tastes delightfully bright and lively.  It shows enough acidity to be refreshing, but not so much as to seem tight or tart.  The wine is not sufficiently complex to merit a 90+ score; but in warm weather, when you want refreshment rather than intrigue from a glass of wine, it’s hard to imagine a much more satisfying choice. 88 Paul Lukacs Jul 7, 2009

Hazard Hill, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon – Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($13, Old Bridge Cellars): This wine has been a very strong performer and a very reasonable price for years on end, and the 2008 rendition from Plantagenet (which is the parent company behind the Hazard Hill brand) certainly keeps the streak running.  It is medium bodied, with the freshness of Sauvignon but also some breadth and palate weight from Semillon.  The combination of melon and citrus fruit flavors is very appealing, with a finish lifted by acidity that is prominent but not overly tart. 88 Michael Franz Jun 30, 2009

Hazard Hill, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($12, Robert Whale Selections): Crisp and refreshing but also deeply flavorful, this features fruit notes recalling apples and white melons, with a shot of lime enlivening the bright finish.  Blends of these two grapes from the cool climate of Western Australia are very popular Down Under, and this supremely consistent wine will convincingly demonstrate why that is the case. 88 Michael Franz Apr 3, 2007

Hazard Hill, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon – Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($12, Robert Whale Selections): Crisp and refreshing but also deeply flavorful, this features fruit notes recalling apples and white melons, with a shot of lime enlivening the bright finish.  Blends of these two grapes from the cool climate of Western Australia are very popular Down Under, and this supremely consistent wine will convincingly demonstrate why that is the case. 88 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2007

Houghton, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay-Verdelho 2005 ($14, Houghton Wines): Houghton uses an alluring blend of two-thirds Chardonnay and one-third Verdelho to capture the virtues of each variety. The Verdelho adds an intriguing floral character while the Chardonnay provides stuffing--but, in the Western Australian tradition--without heaviness. A tangy finish keeps the wine interesting throughout a meal. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2006

James Oatley, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon “Tic Tok” 2009 ($14, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  While showing plenty of bright citrus fruit flavor, this wine feels fairly soft on the palate, its acidity providing balance and structure but never seeming intrusive.  Perhaps it’s the Semillon in the blend, but whatever the reason, this is an inviting rather than bracing wine, so a fine choice for warm weather aperitif sipping. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 29, 2011

James Oatley Tic Tok, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon 2009 ($14, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon blends are popular in Australia; when more Semillon is used, the wine is called Semillon / Sauvignon Blanc.  This brisk and tangy blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Semillon from Pemberton, Frankland River and Margaret River in Western Australia has a very pale straw color, low intensity grassy and lime zest aromas, bright slightly herbal flavors with a hint of tropical fruit.  It finishes with moderate length and 12.5% alcohol. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 14, 2011

Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Virtually bone dry, this impressive Riesling has a touch of earthy minerality complemented by a zing in the finish.  It's another good example of refreshing--and unique--Riesling from Western Australia. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007

Mad Fish, Western Australia (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling 2006 ($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Expressively fruited, filled with bright lemon and apple flavors, and just a whisper of sweetness, this fairly-priced Riesling offers superior before-dinner sipping.  It also will pair well with light but spicy Thai or fusion dishes. 88 Paul Lukacs Dec 18, 2007

Plantagenet Wines, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon - Sauvignon Blanc "Hazard Hill" 2008 ($13, Old Bridge Cellars):

Winemaker John Durham pulled grapes from Great Southern, Pemberton, Blackwood and Geographe appellations in Western Australia for this refreshing value Semillon.  An almost equal 50/50 blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in stainless steel and no oak.  A brilliant, light gold color and aromatic grapefruit zest and ripe melon aromatics lead to nicely structured fruity flavors balanced by crisp acidity.

Robert Oatley, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18, Oatley Wines):

The Sauvignon is typical of the Oatley wines, showing restraint on the nose and palate while delivering subtle nuances of pear, citrus and green apple. Unlike other Sauvignons from Western Australia, which tend to be floral, this one is distinctively earthy.

The Wishing Tree, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay "Unoaked" 2006 ($10, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): I usually avoid unoaked Chardonnay because with rare exception -- Chablis comes to mind -- a little oak aging enhances the wines.  But John Larchet, who has his own label, The Wishing Tree, in addition to importing Australian wine under The Australian Premium Wine Collection, suggested I try this one.  Often unoaked versions, a well-intentioned reaction to the overly oaky ones from California and Australia, come across lean and mean.  This one doesn't.  Good texture, weight and balance come from ripe, but not overripe, fruit harmonized with uplifting acidity.  Larchet obtains grapes from diverse parts of Western Australia, the north and southern parts of the Margaret River, as well as the Mount Barker area, to capture the fruitiness characteristic of warm sites and acidity inherent in grapes grown in cooler climates.  The balance is remarkable, especially at the price. An outstanding value! 88 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2007

The Yard, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Pedestal Vineyard 2007 ($25, Vintage New World):

For the life of me I cannot understand why Semillon, a grape that just about everywhere else (including the Hunter Valley in New South Wales) yields fleshy, almost waxy wines, produces such lean, racy, aggressive ones in Western Australia.  Maybe it has something to do with harvest dates?  Whatever the reason, this blend of 83% Semillon and only 17% Sauvignon Blanc is more assertive, with herbal and tart citrus flavors, than many pure Sauvignons -- even bold ones from New Zealand.  And unlike those Kiwis, it's bone dry. In my experience, these assertive forceful flavors are something of an acquired taste.  But if you've acquired it, you'll love this wine.

Hazard Hill, Western Australia (Australia) Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($14, Robert Whale Selections): The 2007 edition of this wine shows notably more Semillon than the preceding vintage, and this was immediately apparent to me when I first encountered the wine--despite the fact that I hadn't looked at the percentages noted on the label.  I note this not to crow about my powers of discernment but to indicate that the producer has apparently elected to notably change a wine that should not, in my view, have been changed, as the 2005 and 2006 were fantastic, whereas this is just very good.  That said, it is indeed very good, with relatively rich, soft fruit that shows nice notes of white melon, fig and candle wax.  There's enough Sauvignon to freshen up the finish, but not enough to replicate the terrific tension between breadth and linearity that marked the preceding vintages. 87 Michael Franz Aug 14, 2007

Madfish, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Simple but delicious and very versatile with food, this features straightforward notes of green apple and lime.  Light in body with very crisp acidity, it is very refreshing, but there's an intensity that enables this to hold its own with surprisingly assertive foods. 87 Michael Franz Sep 4, 2007

Madfish, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Simple but delicious and very versatile with food, this features straightforward notes of green apple and lime.  Light in body with very crisp acidity, it is very refreshing, but there's an intensity that enables this to hold its own with surprisingly assertive foods. 87 Michael Franz Sep 11, 2007

Hill of Content, Western Australia (Australia) Benjamin's Blend 2005 ($11, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Aussies by nature think outside the box, particularly when they're assembling a blended white wine. Benjamin's Blend is an eclectic combo of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon and Verdehlo. This one provides a pungent grapefruit nose, juicy ripe fruit in mid-palate, a touch of spice and minerality and very little acid bite on the finish. A lovely, inexpensive quaffer. 86 Robert Whitley Nov 28, 2006

Palandri, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($12, Palandri America): Bright and fresh, this wine offers lots of zesty refreshment for the money.  Rieslings from Western Australia can develop marvelous complexities as they age, but tend to be pretty simple when first released.  That is true for this wine, which shows fruit notes of apple with a bit of citrus around the edges.  Truly dry but not quite austere, this would be especially good with simple preparations of freshwater fish. 86 Michael Franz Sep 11, 2007

Palandri, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006 ($12, Palandri America): Bright and fresh, this wine offers lots of zesty refreshment for the money.  Rieslings from Western Australia can develop marvelous complexities as they age, but tend to be pretty simple when first released.  That is true for this wine, which shows fruit notes of apple with a bit of citrus around the edges.  Truly dry but not quite austere, this would be especially good with simple preparations of freshwater fish. 86 Michael Franz Sep 4, 2007

Plantagenet, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 'Omrah' 2008 ($15, Old Bridge Cellara):

A small amount of this WA Sauvignon Blanc was barrel fermented and left on the lees for two months before back blending with the tank fermented lot.  This technique by Winemaker John Durham gives the wine a textural feeling that winemaker’s call "mouth feel."  I found the wine to have a touch of sulfur in the nose that blew off with airing, uncovering lemon zest with floral and herbal notes.  The medium flavors are dry with citrus acidity and 13.5% alcohol.

The Wishing Tree, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay "Unoaked" 2006 ($10, The Australian Premium Wine Collection):

There is a charming simplicty to an unoaked Chardonnay, captured here in this inexpensive example from Western Australia. It shows lovely floral aromas on the nose, satisfying pear and apple flavors and good palate weight with surprising persistence on the finish. A simple gem for the price.