Wine Review Online

Maison Wessman, Bergerac AOC (France) "No. 1 Saint-Cernin" 2016 ($99):

A massive blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon that already shows great depth and power. It’s surely headed into a long life of mellowing and exposing myriad charms. That said, it’s a presently a true delight already, with blackberry, black cherry, dried herbs, pepper and violet aromas, seamless translation on the palate and a finish that proves extremely persistent. Bravo! A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
97 Rich Cook May 29, 2018

Château Haut Monplaisir, Cahors (France) “Pur Plaisir” 2005 ($52, Vintage '59 Imports): Anyone who thinks that Argentina is the last word in high-end

renditions of Malbec needs to taste this wine. Very deeply and densely pigmented, with a color so dark that it approaches the black of lore for this appellation, this is a supremely serious-looking wine. That impression is reinforced by the aromas and flavors of the wine, which show intense blackberry notes but none of the over-ripe character that often mar “statement” wines (which this bottling may be in some sense, as it is the top-tier offering in this producer’s stable). Indeed, rather than seeming over-ripe, the wine features remarkable purity and freshness, with terrific acidity that brightens and lengthens the flavors. I love high-end Argentine Malbecs as much as the next guy, but their Achilles Heel is an overt sweetness, of which there is absolutely none in this wine. 93 Michael Franz Jun 30, 2009

Lagrézette / Seigneur de Grézette, Cahors (France) Malbec 2015 ($25, Curious Corks Imports):

With lovely structure and considerable elegance, this Malbec from France’s historic Cahors region is a delight. Supple and lushly textured, it shows off elements of spice and licorice more than ripe fruit. Smooth, silky tannins and a generous finish are part of the charm.
93 Marguerite Thomas Aug 8, 2017

Château Haut Monplaisir, Cahors (France) “Prestige” 2005 ($23, Vintage '59 Imports):

This is another impressive wine from this exemplary producer of Cahors. It is very dark in color, and almost opaque in terms of pigment concentration. Blackberry is the lead fruit note, and the flavors are quite intense and are enlivened by lots of fresh acidity and backed by plenty of gutsy tannins. The balance is very agreeable, but there’s a hard edge to the wine’s finish, and you should take note of that and buffer it with food that has a bit of dietary fat, like a grilled rib steak.

Clos la Coutale, Cahors (France) Malbec 2020 ($18, Kermit Lynch):

The Bernede family has been one of the most reliable producers in Cahors, and now seems settled on offering a balanced, well-structured version. In 2020 about 20% Merlot was added to the Malbec, and the blend was aged one year in casks and barrels. Dark in color as expected of a Malbec-based wine, it offers aromas of black fruit, mainly blueberry, and a slight touch of thyme. It has plenty of black fruit flavors (cherry and berry) and a faint touch of oak spice. But it is not overly juicy, and the oak is minimal. Overall, this is a solid example of Cahors and an excellent value.
90 Norm Roby Oct 10, 2023

Lagrezette, Cahors (France) Malbec “Purple The Original” 2015 ($17, Curious Cork Imports):

A thoroughly likeable red wine with a big personality, this Malbec has a generous, mouth-filling texture. There is no oak influence in “Purple” so it’s all about the fruit, including red and black berries, distinctive dried orange peel, plus a hint of licorice. Made from estate grown grapes, it is a supple wine, with silky tannins and a notably dry finish. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jan 16, 2018

Cameron Hughes, Cesseras, Pays d’Oc (France) Lot 681, Cabernet Sauvignon-Petit Verdot 2017 ($13):

If you love good wine at a great price and don’t know Cameron Hughes, you’re missing out on one of the greatest treasures the wine industry has to offer. Cameron Hughes buys up odd lots that failed to make the cut for the final blend at top-notch wineries and sells it under his own name at a fraction of the price it would have fetched under the winery’s label. This Bordeaux-style blend from France is a beautiful example. It delivers excellent concentration of flavor, showing notes of red currant and cassis, with supple tannins, a delicate note of wood spice and a long finish. All at an amazing price. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Oct 1, 2019

Famille Perrin, Châteauneuf-Du-Pape (France) "Les Sinards" 2014 ($38, Vineyard Brands):

Much of the fruit (Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah) in this ever-so-tasty wine come from young vines at Beaucastel. Red fruits, including cherry and plum, dominate the flavor profile, with a slight hint of dried orange peel adding to the complexity. While the wine is still very youthful it is certainly enjoyable right now if you choose not to cellar it for a couple of years.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 26, 2018

Domaine Lignères, Corbieres (France) "Cabanon de Pascal" 2002 ($23, Sovereign Wine Imports):

This is a delicious wine that will work beautifully with a range of holiday foods, from white meat turkey to ham to meaty or mushroomy party hors d'oeuvres. It's a blend of 73% Grenache with 27% Merlot. The Grenache brings red-fruit juiciness to the wine and the Merlot a hint of chocolate and dark plum. It's a dry, nearly full-bodied wine with pronounced fruity flavor, and soft texture cut through by a medium amount of fine-grained tannin. Sipped without much thought, it's fruity and flavorful enough to please guests who don't drink red wine often. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Dec 19, 2006

Domaine Ligneres, Corbieres (France) "Notre Dame" 2002 ($23, Sovereign Wine Imports): This all-Syrah wine is slightly less fine than the winery's 'Cabanon de Pascal' only because it is short across the palate - it's very up-front, you might say, and lacks the length that a better wine would have. If you don't really care about such details, however, this wine is terrific. It's fairly full-bodied, very round and very smooth in texture, with a medium amount of tannin that is far outweighed by the rich texture. Aromas and flavors are typically Mediterranean, suggesting ripe, almost baked dark fruits, earthiness and herbal nuances. The texture is so pleasing that the wine is hard not to like. 87 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Dec 19, 2006

Domaine de la Pertuisane, Cotes Catalanes IGP (France) Grenache “Le Nain Violet” 2011 ($23, USA Wine West):

This is the gigantic side of Grenache (despite the fact that the proprietary name means, “The Purple Dwarf). It is super ripe, but maintains nice character through its elevated alcohol. Raspberry jam, pepper, leaf, and a firm grip at the end keeps all of the flavors intact -- if you like 'em big and ripe, this is for you! It continues to open in the glass -- and the ripeness seems to recede a bit, lending more balance. Very interesting!
90 Rich Cook May 19, 2015

Domaine Chiroulet, Côtes de Gascogne (Gascony, France) “Les Terres Blanches” 2012 ($14, Charles Neal Selections): A sommelier's version of a Côtes de Gascogne, quite earthy, and successively more interesting with more time in the glass.
87 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Domaine de Terrebrune, Du Mont Caume IGP (Mediterranée, France) “Terre d’Ombre” 2020 ($21, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):

Georges Delille founded Domaine de Terrebrune in the 1960s amidst a rejuvenation of the Bandol fueled by the region earning Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status. Sourced from his youngest Bandol vines and declassified to IGP de Mont Caume, Terre d’Ombre is his early-drinker. The blend is comprised of 80% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache and 10% Cinsault. Rich, earthy flavors of tobacco leaf and leather are compliment the red cherry and cranberry fruit. Although I wouldn’t classify this wine a fruit-forward, the wine’s fruit is much more vibrant than its older brother, labeled as Bandol Rouge. With a mid-$20 retail price, this is easily a go-to, ready-to-drink option that I wouldn’t think twice about opening on a weekday.
90 Vince Simmon Feb 6, 2024

Locations, France () "F5" Red Wine NV ($20):

Only Dave Phinney could get away with taking Bordeaux varieties and Rhône varieties, putting them together and still putting France on the label. The result here is a rich, concentrated wine with blackberry, cocoa, tea and smoky oak aromas and flavors that will pair with any meat dish. Well done! A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jun 12, 2018

Domaine Le Roc, Fronton (France) Négrette “La Folle Noire d’Ambat” 2010 ($18, Charles Neal Selections):

If, like me, you dream of finding a delicious wine from a little known estate in a largely unfamiliar wine region (in this case Fronton, in Armagnac), made from uncommon grapes and sold for a reasonable price, then I suggest you get yourself “La Folle Noire.” It’s deliciously unfamiliar in taste too--flavorful red fruits dominate (raspberries perhaps?) with gingery spiciness and a refreshing touch of menthol also sneaking across the taste buds. With its medium-light body, La Folle is all in all a very pleasurable discovery.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jan 8, 2013

Domaine Les Pallières, Gigondas (France) “Terrasse du Diable” 2019 ($38, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

One of the oldest properties in Gigondas, the estate vineyard covers 25 hectares and the winemaking in recent years has been in the hands of Daniel and Frederic Brunier of Vieux Télégraphe. The “Diable” plot is the highest on the estate, and long ago earned the moniker by being difficult to access and cultivate. The 2019 blend is 90% old vine Grenache filled out by Mourvedre and Clairette, and the wine is aged for 20 months in French foudres. In the glass, this wine offers aromas of ripe berries, plums with touches of cola and just a hint of garrigue. Then on the palate, it goes into high gear as the flavors expand and fan out to deliver lively berry and subtle thyme with some tannin and earthiness to bring it to a lovely finish. In a word: “delicious."
94 Norm Roby Apr 11, 2023

Famille Bouey, IGP Atlantique (France) “Oh La Vache” 2020 ($13, Quintessential Wines):

The geographic designation, "IGP Atlantique" means the grapes were grown in the vast area anywhere in the southwest of France from Bordeaux to Cognac. The Merlot (85%) in this blend brings a bright, juicy aspect, while the Cabernet Sauvignon provides just the right amount of structure. A sour cherry-like and uplifting acidity prevents it from being heavy or flabby. Light in tannins, it takes a chill nicely and is the better for it. It is an excellent choice for those who like a red as an aperitif or the next time you are hosting a large group with food from the grill.
87 Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2022

Château Peyros, Madiran (France) 2007 ($18, Baron Francois Ltd.):

An earthy wine, with firm but unobtrusive tannins, this blend of 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernet Franc offers multi-layered flavors, with dark berry fruit atop spice-laden and mineral-rich secondary ones. It offers enticing complexity in both the bouquet and on the palate, and at more than five years old, is fully ready to drink and enjoy.
92 Paul Lukacs Feb 19, 2013

Famille de Boel, Méditerranée IGP (Southern France) “Le gras c’est la vie!” 2020 ($21, Bon Vivant Imports):

Fruit forward and approachable, this wine will interest novices and wine nerds alike. This wine is primarily Caladoc -- a cross of Malbec and Grenache Noir. I found notes of black and blue fruit throughout the wine’s palate impressions. I also found both minerality and tobacco leaf, which provided complexity and held my attention with each sip. This is a drink-now wine and earns its title, “Life is Fat!”
89 Vince Simmon Apr 5, 2022

Domaine Ligneres, Montagne d'Alaric (Corbieres, France) Notre Dame 2002 ($30, Acadia Imports):

This is 100 percent Syrah from the Ligneres estate's Notre Dame vineyard, located in Montagne d'Alaric in the Corbieres region of the south of France. The concentration and voluptuous depth are typical characteristics of reds produced in the south, but the Notre Dame brings another dimension to the table - a firm structure that is more in keeping with a Syrah from the northern Rhone Valley. And along with that blueberry, blackberry jam fruit profile there is the intriguing aroma of smoked game and spice. An outrageously delicious French Syrah for the price, and a wine that will benefit from additional cellaring. 91 Robert Whitley Jan 9, 2007

Domaine Ligneres, Montagne d'Alaric (Corbieres, France) Piece de Roche 2002 ($19, Acadia Imports): It's unusual to find a wine made from 100 percent Carignan, though the Piece de Roche may change the conventional wisdom on this grape variety that is most often used as a blending component in the village red wines of the southern Rhone, including Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Ligneres' Piece de Roche delivers a fruit-forward, juicy expression of the grape variety with loads of spice and a note of chocolate on the finish. 88 Robert Whitley Jan 23, 2007

Calandrelle, Pays D’Herault IGP (France) Carignan Vielles Vignes 2020 ($18, Wine Insiders):

Carignan might not be high on your go to list, but you’d be remiss not to give this a spin. A very attractive nose of ripe strawberry and raspberry translates well on the palate, with freshening acidity and easy oak influence keeping the snazzy fruit in front. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
93 Rich Cook Sep 21, 2021

Georges Duboeuf, Pays d’Oc IGP (France) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($12, Quintessential Wines):

It figures that Duboeuf, the King of Beaujolais, would do what he does best when working with a grape variety other than Gamay. This Cabernet Sauvignon has a decided Beaujolais tilt, showing gorgeous aromas of freshly crushed berries with a touch of wood spice. It might not have the weight and depth of a typical Cabernet, but for tasty summer sipping it gets my vote.
87 Robert Whitley Feb 19, 2019

Château des Reyssiers, Régnié (Beaujolais, France) 2011 ($13, Louis Latour, Inc.):

Régnié was the last subregions of Beaujolais to be award cru status, which explains why it’s not as well known as Fleurie or Brouilly. But its lack of recognition should not deter consumers especially because this one is so charming. The Château des Reyssiers was recently purchased by Henry Fessy, the excellent Beaujolais producer who in turn is owned by Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s great names. This Régnié has lovely concentration and vigor. With more elegance than customary for a wine from Régnié, it combines an intriguing earthy component that complements the fruitiness imparted by the Gamay grape. It’s a great choice for grilling this summer.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2013

Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre Rouge (France) 2011 ($42):

This wine is a beautiful example of the delicate charm of Pinot Noir from Sancerre. Light and luminous in color, in personality it is both serene and full of vitality. With Pinot Noir’s distinctive elements of fruit and earth, it also shows hints of Sancerre’s fundamental minerality.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 24, 2013

Jean-Grancois Mérieau , Touraine (France) Gamay ”Le Bois Jacou” 2012 ($15, European Cellars): Very rustic and oh so French, this Loire Valley Gamay tastes earthy as well as meaty. It has just enough fruit to remain focused, but probably should be drunk in the near-term. Not a wine for lovers of big, fruity New World reds, it will delight you if you prefer wines that taste literally of the vineyard.
89 Paul Lukacs Jun 21, 2016

Domaine Bott, Vin de France (France) Syrah “First Flight” 2018 ($50, Banville Wine Merchants):

Sometimes you open a wine and it outperforms anything you had expected. Domaine Bott's “First Flight” Syrah was one of those wines for me. First, this wine is absolutely easy to drink and hard to put down. The fruit is rich and dark -- boysenberry and blackberry -- while the body shows both earthiness and floral notes recalling violets. Graeme and Julie Bott focus on Northern Rhône wines and this is a quality wine through-and-through.
90 Vince Simmon Oct 11, 2022

Marcel Lapierre, Vin de France (France) “Raisins Gaulois Gamay IX” NV ($14, Kermit Lynch): Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards. He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old--most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”--do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France. Regulations for this broad appellation prohibit vintage dating so he uses Roman numerals to indicate the vintage. It’s young, fruity, easy-to-drink wine that is lively and refreshing Beaujolais in every way except for the name. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 29, 2010

Château de Corcelles, Vin de France (France) Gamay “Les Copains d’Abord” 2018 ($18, Seaview Imports):

Château de Corcelles, an historic property located just east of Villé-Morgon, produces a range of Beaujolais. They also produce this wine, entirely from Gamay, presumably, from vines that are located just outside of the Beaujolais delimited zone. Though it has the charm of Beaujolais, they can’t legally call it that. Hence, it falls into the very general category of Vin de France. It’s fruit-focused, but not overdone, nor sweet. Fresh, with mild soft tannins and good acidity it’s an “everyday” type of wine for burgers or pizza.
86 Michael Apstein Feb 16, 2021

Laurent Miquel, Vin de Pays d'Oc (France) Cabernet Sauvignon - Syrah Père et Fils 2010 ($10, Miquel Et Fils): This appealing red blend has cleansing sandy tannins and refreshing acid on the finish, both of which serve as an attractive counterbalance to the sleek red and black fruits. It’s hard to think of another $10 red wine that is so well crafted, so equable in the balance of its various components, and so thoroughly satisfying.
90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 26, 2013

BV Coastal Estates, Vin de Pays I’ll de Beauté (Corsica, France) Pinot Noir 2005 ($10, Diageo): The demand for Pinot Noir from American consumers is so strong these days that California producers like Beaulieu have started to buy wine from outside the United States - in this case the Mediterranean island of Corsica! Many consumers will think they are buying a California Pinot, as the packaging remains the same as it was when BV Coastal was made with Golden State fruit. Though that may be a bit misleading, the wine inside the bottle actually is better than it was when made domestically, being less grapey and more refined. In fact, it's hard to imagine that many $10 Pinots can be its equal. So while you may not like the idea of this wine, odds are that you will like the taste - and the price. 87 Paul Lukacs Mar 6, 2007

BV Coastal Estates, Vin de Pays I’ll de Beauté (France) Pinot Noir 2005 ($10): It is quite a commentary on the extent of post-Sideways Pinot mania that even a California producer like BV is finding it necessary to turn to obscure Vin de Pays sources for juice. In this case, the juice is pretty tasty, as this bottling shows correct notes of red and black cherries, along with a bit of grippy tannin to lend definition and structure. 84 Michael Franz Mar 13, 2007

Thierry & Guy, Vin de Pays Vignobles de France (France) Pinot Noir "Fat Bastard" 2007 ($11, Click Wine Group): This is a fun French wine that places the emphasis in its name on FAT. And, did I mention that it is also a multi-regional blend (including Pinot Noir from Corsica), and that there's a smiling hippopotamus on the label? Don't ask. Made in a white wine style with cool fermentation and no oak, the aromas are bright and cherry-like with hints of spice. The medium flavors are packed with fruit, soft tannins and good acidity. This is a nice wine that, at 12.8% alcohol, fits nicely with many foods, but drink it now while it is fresh and fruity. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 24, 2008

Vins Bréban, Alpes de Haute Provence (France) “Lavendette” Rosé 2020 ($18):

The color of this Rosé is pale pink with orange highlights. The aroma leans in the direction of floral. On the palate Lavendette is refreshing and delicate. A blend of 60% Grenache grapes, 25% Syrah and 15% Cinsault, this is a good wine to serve with cheese-dominated dishes such as quiche or enchiladas, or vegetable-centric salads as well as light seafood.
91 Marguerite Thomas Sep 28, 2021

La Galope, Comte Tolosan (Gascony, France) Rosé 2018 ($16):

Fresh and tangy, with a seductive, fruity palate, this gem from southwestern France is both delightfully fruity and refreshingly dry. Its come-hither aroma and flavors include hints of rose petal and fresh raspberry, plus cherry and lemon. This is not a shy rosé; in fact, it is hearty enough to be paired with foods that boast a certain amount of spice.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 20, 2020

Fleur de Mer, Côtes de Provence (France) Rosé 2016 ($18, Wine Brokers Unlimited):

With pretty tangerine-pink hues and lovely floral aromatics this rosé enchants before it’s even tasted. On the palate is shows a medium-light body, succulent and subtle fruit, and a crisp, dry finish. The wine is made by the Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de St. Tropez, a co-op located on a scenic peninsula jutting out into the Mediterranean.
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 25, 2017

Chateau La Canargue, Cotes du Luberon (France) 2006 ($15, Beaune Imports): Bright red berry fruit is enhanced by echoes of dried herbs and black pepper, giving this classic-tasting southern French rosé undeniable appeal. A delicious warm weather choice. 88 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Miraval, Côtes du Provence (France) 2014 ($25):

I suspect much of the enthusiasm for this wine is that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie own the property. Indeed, the Provence estate near Brignoles is where they were married. Not being a partisan of rosés, I was prepared to dismiss it as just marketing hype with its Champagne-like bottle and perfect pink color that could have been chosen by an interior designer. But, as the saying goes, you can’t judge a book by its cover. The wine is collaboration between the movie stars and the Perrin family, who own Château Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and who are one of the Rhône’s leading producers. In a word, the Miraval rosé is filled with character. Great aromatics predict pleasure, which follows with the first sip. Refreshing, as rosés should be, the 2014 Miraval is firm and persistent. It has elegance and complexity, two words rarely used when describing rosé, and enough oomph to stand up to a hearty salad Niçoise.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015

Ferraton Pere & Fils, Cotes Du Rhône (France) Rosé “Samorens” 2015 ($14, HB Wine Merchants): A full flavored Grenache-driven Rosé that delivers raspberry, cherry, strawberry, mild white pepper and lemon zest aromas and flavors that's perfect for the warm end of the summer months. This is bolder than most French Rosé that I've tasted. It will stand up to paella or burgers with ease.
89 Rich Cook Aug 2, 2016

Locations, France (France) Grenache Rosé “F6” NV ($19): Dave Phinney opts for a fleshy style in a 100% Grenache Rosé, and it works with macerated strawberry, white pepper spice and touches of melon and citrus presented in a mouth filling, easy to drink summer quencher. There's enough oomph here for medium strength cheese or spicy side appetizers.
89 Rich Cook Aug 15, 2017

Yves Leccia, Ile de Beauté (Corsica, France) Rosé 2017 ($22, Kermit Lynch):

“Ile de Beauté” is the somewhat self-serving designation for wines from the island of Corsica, not all of which is all that beautiful. (To be fair, many parts, especially on the coasts, do deserve the name.) But this rosé is definitely a beauty, no matter where you drink it. Made from the local Nielluccio grape, it offers more depth of flavor than most rosés, yet still delights with its fresh, vibrant character. Put another way, its beauty runs deep.
91 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2018

Palais Privé, Lubéron (France) 2011 ($19, Paradis Group): It’s the pale orange-pink color of a perfect sunset. The persistent strawberry perfume beguiles the senses and makes even a gray day feel sunny. This rosé, made from Grenache Noir and Syrah, carries the sweetness of fruit grown in a warm climate, but welcome tartness on the finish keeps it lively. Unlike many rosés, which quickly taper off into nothingness, this one finishes on a strong note.
90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 26, 2013

Chateau Ferry Lacombe, Mediterranee IGP (France) "Mira" Rosé 2018 ($17, Quintessential Wines):

Mediterranee IGP is a fairly recent appellation designation that is producing some very tasty rosé at pleasant prices. This bottle delivers just what a new rosé should, with strawberry, a touch of cherry, bright zesty citrus and a dash of white pepper that, taken together, refresh and bring you back to the glass. This is the sort of bottle that empties quickly -- buy in bulk! Contains 80% Grenache and 20% Caladoc.
90 Rich Cook Apr 30, 2019

Famille Sumeire, Mediterranee IGP (France) “Les Collines de Cézanne”, Rosé 2016 ($25):

A refreshing, crisp and dry rosé with a shy nose, yet bursting with flavors of strawberry, lemon zest and stony minerality and a long finish where a bit of sweet bay leaf comes forward. Looking for some sunshine while winter drags on? Here you go.
90 Rich Cook Jan 1, 2019

Moulin de Gassac, Pays d’Hérault (France) "Guilhem” Rosé 2017 ($11, Roanoke Valley Wine Company):

Very pale pink, with light floral facets and mineral overtones, this is a very delicate, dry wine. The finish is not complex, but its distinct and cleansing acidity makes this a good wine to enjoy with the sort of Provencale foods one might find in Moulin de Gassac’s backyard, Salade Niçoise, for example, grilled fish, eggplant, and just about anything accompanied by aioli.
90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 18, 2018

Les Vignes de Bila-Haut, Pays d’Oc IGP (France) 2016 ($15):

This absolutely delicious rosé from the Languedoc region in the south of France is from the M. Chapoutier family of wines. Chapoutier is one of the three or four finest producers in the Rhone Valley, but applies the same care and respect to the wines they make elsewhere. This is a refreshing rosé that exhibits aromas of strawberry and orange peel. The finish is bright and crisp, which is largely the appeal of dry rosé wine in the warm summer months.
90 Robert Whitley Aug 15, 2017

Bruno Lafon, Sud de France (France) Grenache Rosé 2020 ($18, Hemispheres Global Wines):

I like this Grenache Rosé for its silky texture, its mix of dry tart strawberry, white pepper and bay leaf, and a crisp integrated finish. It’s what French Rosé is all about! A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
92 Rich Cook Sep 21, 2021

Tres Chic, Sud de France (France) Rosé 2017 ($17):

Don’t serve this wine too soon after opening, and don’t serve it too cold -- you’ll miss the nuances within. With some air time, you’ll get a mouthful of dry, pleasant pink that showcases strawberry, white peach, citrus and herb and finishes crisply with a touch of white pepper coming forward. A nice match for green salads. Contains 70% Grenache and 30% Cinsault. A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
90 Rich Cook Jun 12, 2018

Chêne Bleu, Vaucluse (Rhône-Provence, France) “Le Rosé” 2021 ($33, Wilson Daniels):

Since the first vintage in 2006, the reds from Chêne Bleu have been known for their luxurious depth and complexity of flavors, and one suspects they would have been rated even higher by critics if the estate were not located in the mountains east of Avignon and the wines released as coming from Ventoux or Vaucluse. But even the best wineries sometimes let up on their Rosés and are happy with an “elegant” or “lively” description. However, perhaps the Rolets, who own the estate, and their winemakers are incapable of making a merely simple wine. In this case, the pink begins with an elegant texture, and then the chorus joins in – substantial strawberry and effervescent orange flavors with light tannins, fine acidity and a metallic minerality. Although delightful to sip, this is definitely a Rosé that has earned a place at the dinner table with the grown-up wines.
92 Roger Morris Oct 4, 2022

La Vieille Ferme, Ventoux (France) Rosé 2013 ($9, Vineyard Brands):

This is one of the tastiest and affordable rosés in the market. It isn’t going to inspire lots of contemplation and you won’t waste time mulling over its virtues -- this coquettish little wine simply invites you to dive right in and enjoy its light fruity flavors, its appetite-inducing delicacy, and its crisp finish. Blended from Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, it is an absolutely delightful, inexpensive wine to accompany informal hot-weather meals all summer long.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jul 8, 2014

Prophecy, Vin de France (France) Rosé 2017 ($14):

Prophecy's dry rosé from France shows classic notes of strawberry, citrus and dried herbs, with good acidity and overall balance. Excellent as a quaffer but with the stuffing to handle tapas and spicy Asian cuisine. A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
91 Robert Whitley Jun 5, 2018

Prophecy, Vin de France (France) Rosé 2017 ($14): T

his rosé is an easy drinking, fresh glass of strawberry, lemon and spice that should see wide distribution this summer into fall. If you can’t make it to France, here’s a solid budget friendly substitute.
90 Rich Cook Aug 21, 2018

La Vieille Ferme, Vin de France (France) Rosé 2022 ($9, Vineyard Brands):

La Vieille Ferme Rosé is undoubtedly one of the best values in the market. The Perrin Family of Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape launched the brand in the United States in 1980. Now, four decades later, it remains a lovely example of southern French Rosé. The 2022 is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah – a typical southern French blend. It has a floral freshness at the nose with strawberry, peach and citrus fruits backed by hints of Provençal herbs. On the palate, it shows a lively mix of fruits underlain by elements of herbs and lemon zest. Today, La Vieille Ferme is readily available in multiple sizes as well as boxes. If you want a well-made dry Rosé at a great price, give it a try.
88 Wayne Belding Jul 18, 2023

Domaine Eugène Carrel, Vin de Savoie (France) Rosé 2020 ($18, Vintage Imports):

This is a delicious, juicy rosé that is a wonderful companion for a wide range of foods. The Domaine Eugène Carrel is located in the foothills of the Alps in Savoie. The Domaine has been in the Carrel family for six generations and Olivier Carrel, a talented winemaker with a special gift for rosé wines, now manages the estate. His 2020 Vin de Savoie Rosé shows a delicious combination of juicy fruit and elegance. The aromas are forward and enticing, with pure raspberry and strawberry fruits enhanced by hints of citrus peel and spice. The lively fruit of the Gamay is evident on the palate with its luscious raspberry, cherry and strawberry flavors supported by the lemon zest and subtle spice tones.
90 Wayne Belding Nov 2, 2021

Prophecy, Vin de Table (France) Rosé, "Goddess of Fortune" 2017 ($14):

There’s much to like in this succulent dry rosé including its pale orangey-pink color, its delicate strawberry and peach flavors, and its refreshing acidity. A perfect summer wine, it’s also serious enough to be enjoyed throughout the year with casual fare such as tomato based pasta dishes, shrimp, lentils or bimbap.
91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 7, 2018

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé Imperial NV ($55, Moet Hennessy):

Serve this in a tulip shaped glass rather than a narrow flute to please your eye as well as you nose and palate. Know the look of a just about ripe strawberry? It's not just pretty, but it gives you a hint about the aromas and flavors within. Strawberry, mild baked bread and lemon are present and bright, and scouring acidity cleanses without removing the fruit impression. Beautiful all the way around. A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
93 Rich Cook Mar 29, 2016

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut Imperial NV ($41, Moet Hennessy):

This non-vintage offering is improving of late, seeming somewhat more refined than a few years ago. A fine mousse and a creamy texture deliver aromas and flavors of pear, apple, citrus and light toasted bread, with crisp acidity brightening the finish and prepping your palate for the next bite or sip. It's great to know that this kind of quality resides in a bottle readily available virtually anywhere in the world. A Platinum Award winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
92 Rich Cook Mar 29, 2016

Gustave Lorentz, Cremant d'Alsace (France) Brut NV ($30, Quintessential):

The taste buds are whetted by this sparkling wine’s enchanting aromas -- fruity, a little floral, along with discreet suggestions of citrus and hard candy. On the palate, the salmon-pink sparkler has just the right amount of bubbles and discreet hints of strawberry flavor. The wine is crisp and dry, and with 12% alcohol it is an easy sipper. It is fermented in tanks, followed by a second fermentation in bottle. Serve this Crémant as an aperitif with Marcona almonds or other salted nuts, or for dinner with light summery fare such as poached salmon or lobster salad. Gustave Lorentz is located in the medieval village of Bergheim.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jul 3, 2018

Albert Bichot, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($23, European Wine Imports):

Albert Bichot brings us this lively glass of pears, figs and brioche, accented with notes of stone and acacia. A fine mousse and a rich yet crisp feel leaves a lingering finish that is very complex at this price point. There is a small amount of Gamay in the blend that makes itself known in the finish with a soft berry presence. A very classy bottling.
93 Rich Cook Sep 1, 2015

Simonnet-Febvre, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut NV ($19):

Looking for a French bubbly, but want to wow your friends with your knowledge that not all that bubbles is Champagne, and save more than a few bucks in the process? Well, Chablis makes a bubbly as well, and it's a fine one at that. This is a steely, dry example that sings out golden delicious apple, fig, brioche and wet stone, with a bright, cleansing lemon zest finish. Couple that with the value price and you'll look like a genius. Contains 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir.
92 Rich Cook Sep 1, 2015

Cave de Lugny, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut NV ($16, Viceroy):

The Mâcon region of France brings us something different than usual with this fresh, crisp and clean sparkler that seriously over delivers for the price. Apples, stony minerality and a kiss of strawberry delight the nose and the mouth, and scour your palate for the next bite. The winery suggests smoked salmon crème brulee as a pairing, and I'm imagining that it's as decadent as it sounds. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay.
90 Rich Cook Aug 25, 2015

Parigot, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($25, Grand Cru Selections):

What a pleasure to be able to taste not one, but five different Cremant de Bourgogne sparklers side by side -- all slightly different in character, and all great options when looking for solid French character without expanding the French tax receipt coffers too much. This bottle is the most austere of the group, with a stony/earthy character that keeps the very lively berry fruit in check and makes me think of it as a table partner rather than an aperitif. Try it next to a coq au vin for something different.
90 Rich Cook Sep 1, 2015

Bailly-Lapierre, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($19, Regal Wine Imports): Bailly-Lapierre sits on the historic border between Champagne and Burgundy, the village laying claim to being the birthplace of Cremant de Bourgogne. This blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay is fresh and inviting for its fresh red berry character, joined by zesty citrus and high toned minerality. Take this value priced bubbly and pair it with mild cheeses and fresh vegetables.
89 Rich Cook Sep 1, 2015

Les Vignerons du Sieur D’Arques, Crémant de Limoux (France) “Toques et Clochers” Brut 2014 ($19, Wine Wine Situation):

Limoux claims to be home to the first sparkling wines, a claim that Champagne, of course, disputes. But there is no doubt that the town of Limoux near the Pyrenees has long produced a sparkling wine, called Blanquette de Limoux (Blanquette is the local name for the Mauzac grape and means white in the local dialect). The appellation, Crémant de Limoux, arose in 1990, likely, in part, at least, for easier marketing of the wines. The fine co-op there, Sieur D’Arques, makes a series of delightful wines, including this one. Friendly, creamy and suave, it’s a blend of Chardonnay (70%), Chenin Blanc (20%) and Mauzac. Good acidity keeps it fresh and lively. It is a great buy.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2019

Le Grand Courtage, France () Brut Rosé “Grande Cuvée” NV ($20):

Here is a budget-friendly French bubbly that impresses with dry style, fresh strawberry and cherry fruit, granite minerality, fine fizz and a long zesty finish. At this price, you can stock up for all of your 2017 celebrations. Well done!
90 Rich Cook Apr 18, 2017

Le Grand Courtage, France (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($22): French bubbly isn’t necessarily Champagne, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. This bottle is simply labeled “Product of France” and though simpler in character, it’s a tasty bargain priced alternative to its more famous cousins. A blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Colombard and Ugni Blanc that will make for an easy aperitif or a nice component in a French 75.
90 Rich Cook Aug 8, 2023

Le Grand Courtâge, France () Blanc de Blancs “Grande Cuvée” Brut NV ($20):

I confess that I wouldn’t have bet a lot on a bottle of bubbly from “France” made from Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Ugni Blanc and Colombard, but this succeeds on the strength of fine fruit-to-acidity balance and very pleasant texture from fine-grained mousse. A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 San Diego Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
90 Michael Franz Apr 11, 2017

Le Grand Courtage sources its grapes from throughout France and consistently produces a reliably delicious sparkling wine that is fresh, clean, well balanced and refined. The Brut Rose delivers exceptional fruit purity, showing nuances of strawberry and red raspberry, with a lively mousse. Good value in this wine, too.

Le Grand Courtage, France (France) “Grande Cuvée” Blanc de Blancs, Brut NV ($25):

Here is another light sparkling wine suitable for the brunch table or happy hour on the deck. This one has suggestions of grapefruit and other citrus fruit with a hint of slate on the finish, and nice, fine bubbles.
87 Marguerite Thomas Jul 3, 2018

Toad Hollow, Limoux (France) “Risqué” NV ($16, Toad Hollow Imports):

It says on the label that Risqué is a “Sweet Sparkling Wine,” which is true -- it’s sweet, and it is sparkling, but it has a lot more personality than many wines that are classified as sweet. Made from Mauzac Blanc, its rich fragrance includes notes of ripe peach, apple, citrus peel and honey, and the wine is similarly multifaceted on the palate. Far from being cloyingly sweet, a refreshing mousse and pretty little sparkle of acidity add lightness and charm. The 6% alcohol content is also an attractive feature.
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 8, 2016

Toad Hollow, Limoux AOC (France) “Risque” NV ($16):

Good on the folks at Toad Hollow for importing this fresh, fun sweet bubbly. Called a Blanquette Methode Ancestrale in its southern France home and made of 100% Mauzac, it's bright and racy, with pure apple, tangerine and lemon flavors and bracing acidity tames the sugar to keep you thirsty for more. Add to this the inclusion of nutrition facts on the back label -- the first I've seen -- and a QR code stamp that will take you to cocktail recipes, not to mention the Grolsh style cap and you've got a winner. Of course, I've never seen a bottle of this that needed to be resealed at the end of the evening.
90 Rich Cook Jun 30, 2015

La Vieille Ferme, Vin de France (France) Reserve Brut, Sparkling Wine, Méthode Contemporaine NV ($12, Vineyard Brands):

A light golden color and very tiny bubbles introduce a lively, dry white wine with aromas and flavors green apple, lemon layered with light toast and orange zest. It is made of Chardonnay with 10% Ugni Blanc. The label displays a new term, Méthode Contemporaine. It refers to a process that the Perrin family developed to make this sparkling wine. The carbon dioxide created during fermentation of the base wine is captured, cleaned, compressed, and stored until it is time to bottle the original still wine. At that time, they reintroduce the carbon dioxide, and, voila! the bubbles are back.
90 Rebecca Murphy Oct 10, 2023

La Vieille Ferme, Vin de France (France) Reserve Rosé, Sparkling Wine, Méthode Contemporaine NV ($12, Vineyard Brands):

The Perrin family has created a delightful new bubbly at a price to enjoy with a brunch, a picnic, but with the quality level for a Sunday dinner. Made from a Grenache Noir 40%, Cinsault 40%, and Pinot Noir 20%, it has very light golden pink color alive with tiny bubbles. Aromas and flavors of strawberry with a hint of ripe peaches are enlivened by crisp acidity. Enjoy with a salmon burger, grilled shrimp, goat cheese, or buttered popcorn. You are probably familiar with the term Méthode Champenoise on a bottle of Champagne, which refers to how the bubbles are created. Méthode Contemporaine is a process that the Perrin family developed to make their sparkling wine. The carbon dioxide created during fermentation is captured, cleaned, compressed and stored until they are ready to bottle the still wine. At that time, they reintroduce the carbon dioxide and the bubbles are back.
90 Rebecca Murphy Oct 10, 2023

Famille Perrin, Vin de France (France) "La Vieille Ferme” Reserve Rosé, Sparkling Wine, Méthode Contemporaine NV ($15, Vineyard Brands):

As a wine writer of many years, I am not prone to brand loyalty as there are so many wines to taste that sticking with one or two is impossible. At the same time, I have been drinking the Perrin family’s La Vieille Ferme everyday wines almost from their beginning with the Côtes de Rhone red and white. I still get a smile when I see a bottle with the rooster on the label. Their fairly recent sparkling wines keep up with the line’s reputation for being very satisfying, always reliable and a bargain for the price. This one is especially so, just a lovely, everyday sparkler with fresh but not tart apple flavors, a medium body, some spiciness and a crisp finish. It’s the kind of wine to open when you plan to have more than one glass.
89 Roger Morris Oct 17, 2023

Domaine Belluard, Vin de Savoie AOC (France) Gringet Brut NV ($24, Free Run LLC): A delightful bubbly with a fine mousse that is beautifully dry and crisp, with bright stony minerality, no doubt enhanced by the fact that vinification takes place in concrete tanks. Grown near the Swiss border in the southeast of France, the fruit comes from higher elevations, and shows great fruit flavor balancing the minerals -- dry stonefruit, pear and a touch of almond linger long after the lively scouring acidity has cleansed your palate. Delicious, and a great value at this price. Try it as a mystery aperitif -- if your guests can identify the grape, give them a prize!
92 Rich Cook Oct 14, 2014

Château Lamothe de Haux, Bordeaux (France) 2012 ($12, Bayfield Importing):

White wines from Bordeaux, such as this one, are underappreciated and hence, offer great value. The 2012 Château Lamothe de Haux, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (40%), Semillon (40%) and Muscadelle, delivers a lovely grassy bite -- Sauvignon Blanc speaking -- atop a creamy texture, thanks to the Semillon. The Muscadelle delivers enchanting fruity aromas. Its freshness makes it work as a stand-alone aperitif while its substantial body makes it a good choice with turkey this Thanksgiving. As a dividend, it has a surprising long finish considering the price.
88 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013

Louis Jadot, Chablis AOC (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($26, Kobrand): Shows an inviting floral component on the nose, with a nuance of minerals and green fruits on the palate. Quite good for a simple village Chablis. 91 Robert Whitley Apr 22, 2014

Famille Perrin, Châteauneuf-Du-Pape Blanc (France) “Les Sinards” 2014 ($38, Vineyard Brands):

Fresh and sprightly, with tantalizing floral elements in the aroma followed by white fruits and saline minerality in the mouth, the wine is tightly strung and delicately balanced. It finishes long and with a suggestion on the palate of floral elements similar to the ones that embellish the aroma.
91 Marguerite Thomas Dec 20, 2016

Domaine du Traginer, Collioure (Roussillon, France ) 2011 ($27, Fruit of the Vine, NY):

In some ways this was the wine-of-the-summer for me. With nutty and stone fruit flavors, plus a wisp of salinity, it has a creamy (but not heavy) texture. The wine is broad on the palate and has a long, lovely finish. The grapes (Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Malvoisie) grow in narrow, terraced vineyards in France’s steep Catalan region close to the Spanish border. The fruit is certified Organic and Biodynamic (Demeter), and the vineyard is worked in the old, traditional way by mule and plough.
95 Marguerite Thomas Aug 18, 2015

Locations, Corsica (France) Vermentino "Corse" NV ($19):

Dave Phinney's Locations series is expanding with this first "sub-country" bottling from Corsica. Fresh cut lemon, lime and white flower aromas lead to a crisp palate of citrus and stony minerality that finish in a cleansing, refreshing fashion. Can't get away this summer? Take a little trip to this French island in a glass. Watch for other Locations reviews over the next several weeks.
91 Rich Cook Jul 11, 2017

Laballe, Cotes de Gascogne (France) “Les Terres Basses de Laballe” 2011 ($12, Potomac Selections): Here’s what’s in this fine cornucopia of white wine: Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Gros Manseng, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc (a mere 5% of each of the last two). The resulting wine deftly juggles a rich heft of ripe fruitiness and cleansing acidity, plus vibrant aromas of tropical fruits.
88 Marguerite Thomas Jan 29, 2013

Colombelle, Côtes de Gascogne (Gascony, France) 2012 ($9, AW Direct): This is simply one of the world's greatest cheap wines, year after year. It's refreshing and expressive, with some of the funky tropical character of Sauvignon Blanc and strong citrus fruit flavor. Made by the Plaimont co-op in the same region as Armagnac from the same grapes, Colombard and Ugni Blanc.
91 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Tariquet, Côtes de Gascogne (France) Chardonnay 2011 ($9, Robert Kacher Selection):

This is an impressive vintage of Tariquet’s Chardonnay, which absolutely nails the intricate relationship between fruit, acidity, alcohol, and oak. Like an excellent string quartet, none of the players dominates this harmonious ensemble. It’s a quiet Chardonnay -- more chamber music than symphony, to push the metaphor a little further, and therefore it’s very good with food. It would be a considerable challenge to find a Chardonnay this good at a price this good.
89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 29, 2013

Domaine du Tariquet, Côtes de Gascogne (France) Chardonnay 2010 ($9, Robert Kacher Selections): This wine gets extra points for being such a nicely balanced Chardonnay at this price point. Most Chardonnays that cost less than $10 rely on ultra sweet, ripe fruit and/or blast of oak to dazzle its drinkers, but Tariquet is a somewhat broader, more vibrant palate pleaser, with good equilibrium between fruit, oak and a modest alcohol content (12.5%).
87 Marguerite Thomas Feb 5, 2013

Domaine Chiroulet, Cotes de Gascogne IGP (France) “Terres Blanches” 2013 ($12, Charles Neal): Some serious bang for the buck with this lovely white from southwest France. Aromas of lime and melon with floral accents lead to a crisp palate with linear translation of aromas into flavors, with a little peach added into the mix. A long finish rounds things out and invites you back for more. Shellfish, paté, mixed appetizers -- lots of possibilities here!
90 Rich Cook Feb 10, 2015

Domaine Du Tariquet, Cotes de Gascogne IGP (France) “Classic” 2013 ($9): Fun. Fresh. Fruity. In music, three f's is a dynamic marking for over the top loud. The Classic isn't over the top at all, but it does get three f's from me. I love wines like this that are so fresh and lively that their lack of complexity is actually a benefit. Of course, this only happens with good vineyard and vinification techniques, and this brings both to bear. Crisp lemon, stone mineral and singing acidity make for a wine that will pair with a multitude of appetizers, or just with a hot sunny day. Delicious! Contains 45% Ugni Blanc, 35% Colombard, 10% Sauvignon and 10% Gros Manseng.
88 Rich Cook Feb 10, 2015

Château du Tariquet, Côtes de Gascogne IGP (Southwest France) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($10, Robert Kacher Selection): Crisp and light, this Sauvignon Blanc was made for summertime sipping with simple seafood. It’s mouth-cleansing acidity and green apple freshness is the perfect antidote for the muggy weather on its way.
87 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2013

Domaines Ott, Cotes de Provence (France) Clos Mireille 2018 ($49, Maisons Marques & Domaines):

Domaines Ott consist of three wine estates in south western France; two in the Côtes de Provence appellation and one in Bandol. They may be best known for their Rosès, but they also make reds from Château de Selle and Château Romassan and this white wine from Clos Mireille. It is a surprising blend of Sémillon, which is partially responsible for the great whites of Bordeaux, and Rolle, also known as Vermentino, native of Italy, and thriving in the south of France. It is a delightful combination of Sémillon’s structure and body and Vermentino’s juicy peach, pear, pink grapefruit and zingy acidity. We served it with a salad of fennel and celery, sliced paper thin, dressed with a lemon and olive oil dressed and topped with mozzarella di bufala, a great combination. It will also be at home with grilled shrimp or a chicken salad.
93 Rebecca Murphy Feb 15, 2022

Nicolas Perrin, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (France) 2012 ($33, Vineyard Brands):

Traditionally blended with other white wine grapes in the Northern Rhône region from whence it comes, Marsanne is the solo performer in Perrin’s lovely, luscious wine. With its rich gold hue, relatively low acidity, decidedly nutty aromas and flavors, plus a satiny, almost waxy, mouth feel, it provides a welcome exception to the usual humdrum white wine experience.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jan 21, 2014

La Vieille Ferme, France () Blanc 2017 ($11, Vineyard Brands):

Year after year, La Vielle Ferme is one of the most reliable brands around. It’s not that the wines taste the same every vintage, but they certainly don’t swing wildly from one style to another. Having said that, the 2017 does reflect the hot, dry summer weather that fleshed out the flavors somewhat more than usual. Even the medium-intense yellow hue suggests something a little more gutsy than usual. The aromas are lightly floral, and the fresh nuanced flavors resonate with suggestions of peach and citrus, while the generous finish might make you think of tangerine and grapefruit. Blended from Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc and Vermentino.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jul 31, 2018

Domaine Lupin, Frangy, Roussette de Savoie AOP (France) “Cuvée du Pépé” 2020 ($35, De Maison Selections):

Domaine Lupin’s Cuvée du Pépé is a single-plot vineyard with 70+ year old vines and is their flagship wine. Unlike a traditional Rousette de Savoie, winemaker Bruno Lupin makes this one to bottle age beyond the AOP’s nominal six year limit. The wine is nicely balanced between rich mineral-driven acidity, yellow apple and coconut cream. For those enjoying this wine today, it has the acidity and flavor concentration to pair nicely with anything from risotto to grilled chicken.
90 Vince Simmon Feb 21, 2023

Maison Louis Latour, IGP Ardèche (France) Chardonnay “Grand Ardèche” 2012 ($15, Louis Latour USA):

Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Burgundy négociant founded over 200 years ago, branched out into the Ardèche, a sleepy area of central France, 25 years ago to have a go with Chardonnay there. It was their first venture outside of Burgundy and continues to be a resounding success because of the outstanding value of the wines they produce there. Instead of the minerality that Chardonnay delivers when grown in Burgundy, Latour’s Grand Ardèche Chardonnay has an engaging pineapple-y like fruitiness. But combine that with the hallmark Latour spine of acidity and you have a fresh and lively Chardonnay perfect for everyday drinking. For once, the back label is useful and accurate when it says, “unbeatable value for money.” It really is.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2015

Domaine Castera, Jurancon (France) "Jurancon Sec" 2005 ($20, Wine Traditions): A very dry, crisp, warm-weather white, tasting of tart citrus with an herbal undertone and a satisfyingly long finish. Drink it up this summer, though, as the fruit tastes less fresh than it would have a year or even six months ago. 87 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Joseph Faiveley, Meursault Premier Cru Blagny (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($110, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd):

With a mere seven years of age, Faiveley’s 2017 Meursault Premier Cru Blagny is already drinking phenomenally well. Vanilla, yellow apple, and a touch of cinnamon waft immediately from the glass. The palate is silky and rich, showing ripe golden apple, and lemon meringue, complimented by taut acidity. The only knock is that the wine shows slightly hotter than I would prefer, as the alcohol stands out ever so slightly. Nonetheless, this flavor profile and lingering finish make it a relative value among aged white Burgundy, and I would happily order it again.
93 John McDermott Jan 23, 2024

ce n’est pas un verre de vin, Pays d’Oc (France) Grenache Blanc 2018 ($19):

A delightful Grenache Blanc, with beautiful stone fruit and faint herb aromatics that translate directly to palate flavors, with perfectly dry structure and a crisp finish where the herb character comes forward. A fine hot weather sipper or a foil for seafood. A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jan 28, 2020

Alexandre Rochette, Pays d’Oc IGP (France) 2019 ($20):

What a crisp refresher this is! Stony minerality drives this wine, based on Vermentino, which is known as Rolle in France. A peach and soft lemon fruit vibe through a finish will bring you back to life after a day’s work in the hot sun. I know some folks like a beer for this purpose, but here’s a challenge – give this a spin and see if you don’t think I’m right. You’ll be glad you did. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Monterey International Wine Competition.
92 Rich Cook Mar 23, 2021

Le Rocher de Granna, Pays d’Oc IGP (France) Sauvignon 2019 ($15, Gabriella Imports):

This white wine from the south of France is appealingly crisp and refreshingly dry. With its delicate herbal and fruit notes it can be enjoyed as a stimulating beverage on its own or as an accompaniment to seafood, especially lobster, crab and other shellfish. It also pairs will with cheese, most notably creamy goat cheese.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 21, 2021

Jean Claude Dagueneau, Domaine de Berthiers, Pouilly Fumé (Saint-Andelain, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($24, Vineyard Brands): It lies purring quietly in the bottom of your glass. A gentle floral and citrus fragrance wafts up to delight you. Once tasted, however, that gentle wine springs to life with an electric zing of fresh yet complex grapefruit and mineral flavors. A medium-light body and pleasingly long finish make this charmer well worth seeking out.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 25, 2013

Domaine de l'Idylle (Famille Tiollier), Roussette de Savoie (France) Altesse “Anne de Lusignan” 2022 ($30, Dionysos Imports):

Savoie's native grape, Altesse also known as Roussette, is known as a high quality grape which produces full-bodied, dry wines marked by floral and nutty aromas. This example offers its floral tones in aromatic notes of yellow apple and Bartlett pear, with an undercurrent of custardy, tropical banana and toasted pie crust. Fully dry, it offers a mouth-filling, rich texture balanced by moderate acidity. This should be delicious with shellfish, mushrooms or dishes with creamy sauces.
91 Andrew Holod Sep 19, 2023

Domaine de L'Idylle, Roussette de Savoie AOC (France) Altesse “L'Altesse 2011 ($13, Free Run LLC):

An enticing aroma profile of fig, butterscotch, damp earth and spice lead to a creamy palate opening that is followed by a bright citric bite, brightening flavors of fresh herbs, pear and nut. The finish shows a pleasant touch of bitters and hangs in there for quite a while. Try it with fresh mixed green salads, or mildly spiced shellfish.
88 Rich Cook Oct 14, 2014

Producteurs Plaimont, Saint-Mont (France) "Les Vignes Retrouvees Blanc Sec" 2009 ($14, Plaim Arques): This zesty wine is a blend of three local white grapes: Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu and Arrufiac. It is produced by independent growers working with two co-ops in the Gers department. The color is brilliant light gold, the aromatics show forward grapefruit, vanilla and ripe peach, while the nicely textured flavors have a bit more minerality. The wine finishes with 13% alcohol and plenty of bright fresh fruit. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 22, 2011

Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre (Chavignol, France) 2015 ($30, Vineyard Brands): Chavignol is one of the France’s finest Sancerre terroirs and this wine lives up to the region’s reputation. With its hints of honeydew melon, green apple and citric notes, plus a zippy vein of minerality and flash of acidity that will shake you out of whatever complacent state you might have drifted into, this is a white wine you’re going to love.
93 Marguerite Thomas Apr 25, 2017

Patient Cottat, Sancerre (France) “Anciennes Vignes” 2014 ($30, Vineyard Brands): Based on its finesse and complexity, this Sancerre is seductive on a number of different levels. It is one of those wonderful wines whose fragrance captures and tweaks one’s sensory imagination, in this case with hints of fruitiness to be sure, but more than that with aromas that are both lightly floral as well as herbal (parsley, lavender, tarragon). In the mouth, the wine’s haunting minerality suggests crushed seashells and a refreshing salinity. It’s a remarkably good companion at the dinner table, delicious with almost everything from the sea, from shrimp to raw oysters. It can also serve as a refreshing summery alternative to the usual red wine with lamb, chicken or pork sausages.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jul 19, 2016

Les Rocailles, Savoie (France) Apremont Vielles Vignes 2016 ($20, Hand Picked Selections):

Made with the local Jacquère grape, this is a stony, mineral-rich wine, filled with a cornucopia of fruit flavors -- melons, limes, green apples, and more -- all crisp, fresh and lively. Fruit, however, is not its only appeal. There are hints of straw and herbs, contributing true complexity and nuanced subtlety. The wine also is marked by plenty of vivacious acidity, suggesting that it will age successfully for five or more years. It’s fascinating and delicious.
92 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2018

Marc Roman, South West France (France) Terret 2016 ($10, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):

This wine strikes me as a great discovery in many different ways. I don’t know about you, but I love tasting wine made from a grape variety I’ve never heard of, and Terret certainly is one of those (plus the word “Terret” is a palindrome!). An ancient variety that is native to Languedoc, Terret is one of the grapes that shows up in Châteauneuf-du-Pape blends. At one time it was widely used in the production of dry vermouth, but as vermouth itself has declined in popularity plantings of the grape have dwindled. This modest, easy drinking and shockingly inexpensive white wine is dry, crisp, fresh, pleasant and lightly fruity. It may remind you a little of Sauvignon Blanc.
89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 27, 2020

Cercius, Vin de France (France) Blanc 2016 ($15, European Cellars/ Eric Soloman):

A blend of Grenache Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc from a vineyard located northwest of the Costières de Nîmes, this somewhat unconventional white tastes compelling. It has plenty of ripe fruit, but also exhibits a distinctive note of minerality, giving it added complexity, especially in the finish.
92 Paul Lukacs Apr 24, 2018

Chateau de Saint Cosme, Vin de France (France) Sauvignon - Viognier “Micro-Cosme” 2022 ($19, Winebow):

Louis Barruol, winemaker and owner of Chateau de Saint Cosme, breaks tradition by blending Sauvignon (Blanc) and Viognier to make this fresh and lightly styled white. The grapes are counterbalanced nicely with the Vigonier providing floral and wax notes and the Sauvignon giving the wine structure and acidity. Louis’ newsletter calls the wine iconoclastic because French wine law places this unique blend in the very broad and somewhat inglorious "Vin de France" category. Nonetheless, the wine is excellent for summer and light cuisine. At $20, this wine outperforms its price and that is exactly why Chateau de Saint Cosme chooses to produce it.
92 Vince Simmon Sep 5, 2023

Famille Lafage / Eric Solomon Selections, Vin de France (France) Chardonnay “Novellum” 2016 ($13, European Cellars):

This elegant Chardonnay has all the tropical aromas and flavors that one might expect from wine grown in France’s warm Roussillon climate, where the Pyrenée Mountains meet the Mediterranean Sea. Fermented in tank, with 5% malolactic fermentation, the wine is nicely balanced, with just the right fruit/acid ratio. “Novellum” tastes like a much pricier wine than it is.
91 Marguerite Thomas Dec 11, 2018

La Petite Perrière, Vin de France (France) Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($14, Taub Family Selections):

La Petite Perrière is an easygoing and refreshing white wine — or, as the winemaker describes it on the back label, “The palate is a whirlwind of freshness, complexity [and] finesse…”. As the wine swirls around one’s palate, it’s hard to improve on that general description. Indeed, this Sauvignon Blanc is a good example of just how delicious good wines under France’s Vin de France classification can be. Established in 2010 to replace the traditional “Vin de Table” designation, Vin de France is a rung below the appellation d’origine controllée. The wines tend to be light bodied and fruity but, like La Petite Perrière, they may also be relatively complex in flavor and nicely balanced. And, also like this wine, they are usually very reasonably priced.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jan 26, 2021

Pierre-Henri Gadais, Vin de France (France) Melon Blan “Vendange Nocturne” 2021 ($18, APS Wine & Spirits):

According to Robinson, et al., in Wine Grapes, the grape variety Melon is from Burgundy. In the Middle Ages. it was taken to the Loire Valley where it was named Muscadet. The grapes for this wine were grown in organic soil and, as the wine’s name suggests, the grapes were harvested at night, to preserve freshness. They were macerated at a cool temperature for 12 hours before pressing to extract flavors, then fermented with the vineyards’ indigenous yeasts, then bottled. The alcohol is a low 11 percent. The goal is to preserve the wine’s pure, focused, fruity flavors of fresh citrus and green apple, with saline mineral notes. Lean and crisp with bright acidity, it would be perfect for an autumn picnic.
90 Rebecca Murphy Oct 11, 2022

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Vin de France (France) Viognier 2012 ($17, Vineyard Brands):

This Viognier is a recent example of the ongoing collaboration between the Perrin family, famous for their Southern Rhône Valley wines, and Nicolas Jaboulet, a specialist from the Northern Rhône. The Viognier vines are planted on relatively high slopes in the Ardèche region. The exceptionally hot weather in the early summer of 2012 is reflected in the ripe fruit flavors of the wine, which has a moderately mellifluous texture as well as hints of honey to tease the taste buds.
89 Marguerite Thomas Nov 19, 2013

Maris, Vin de France (France) Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains “Rare Orange” 2021 ($18, Cordier USA):

Hopefully, orange wines – white grapes with skins in the game – will find a place in the rainbow of wines, and not as a novelty, a rarity or, as is too often the case, someone’s awestruck testimonial to wines “the way they once were made.” There is nothing noble or praiseworthy in a wine that was made before we had little sanitation other than sulfur, no way to blend large volumes of wine except in the field, no temperature controls and brett beyond belief. That said, a well-made orange wine – no matter the propaganda that surrounds it – is quite enjoyable, as this one is. It is pleasantly bitter, with peppery orange and other citrus flavors and with very floral aromas and tastes, is mostly dry and is a touch petillant with a crisp finish. In many ways, it is like a very nice aperitif, and that is how I would drink it, chilled over ice.
89 Roger Morris Dec 20, 2022

Pierre Archambault, Vin de France (France) Sauvignon Blanc “La Petite Perriere” 2009 ($12, Pasternak Wine Imports): Guy Saget, an excellent Sancerre producer who purchased the Archambault estate, has opted to use the newly created appellation, Vin de France, for this wine made from grapes grown outside of the usual Loire appellations known for Sauvignon Blanc. The Vin de France umbrella gives producers considerable latitude in labeling and allows them to use grape names, something that’s prohibited for more prestigious appellations. Its subtle grapefruit rind-like notes and bright acidity clearly announce the variety. It has good weight for a “simple” everyday wine. Not surprisingly, it lacks the unique chalkiness of Sancerre, but then again, it isn’t trying to be--and is not priced that way. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 19, 2010

La Vieille Ferme, Vin de France Blanc (France) 2020 ($8, Vineyard Brands):

La Vieille Ferme Blanc is perennially one of the best white wine values in the market. The Perrin Family of Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape launched the brand in the United States in 1980. Now, four decades later, it remains a lovely example of southern French white wine. The 2020 is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc and Vermentino – an exotic mix to be sure, but typical of southern Rhône viticulture. It has a floral freshness at the nose with peach, pear, lime and lemon fruits backed by hints of citrus peel and Provençal herbs. On the palate, it shows peach, pear and citrus fruits underlain by a full texture and elements of herbs and lemon zest. Today, La Vieille Ferme is readily available in multiple sizes as well as boxes. If you want a well-made dry white at a great price, give it a try.
88 Wayne Belding Mar 15, 2022

Alphonse Mellot, Vin de Pays Coteaux Charitois (France) Chardonnay “Les Pénitents” 2005 ($18, Elite Wine Imports): A Sancerre specialist, Alphonse Mellot has crafted a delicious Chardonnay, using grapes grown in the Coteaux Charitois, a small vin de pays region located a bit to the south, near the city of Nevers. Medium-bodied, it shows plenty of apple and pear fruit flavor, enhanced by notes reminiscent of wet stones or minerals. The result is a compelling white, perfect for drinking with all sorts of seafood. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2007

J & F Lurton, Vin de Pays de Côtes du Tarn (France) Sauvignon Blanc Les Fumées Blanches 2005 ($9, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Jacques and François Lurton, sons of famed Bordeaux chateaux owner André Lurton, split from the family about 10 years ago to start their own projects, which involve making wines from around the world. Their 100% Sauvignon Blanc, Les Fumées Blanches, is always racy and balanced. The 2005, clean and vibrant, is especially attractive and at a very enticing price. 86 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2006

Domaine de Salette, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne (France) 2005 ($10, Kysela): Here is a nice, straightforward, well-made, refreshing, food-friendly wine for ten bucks, which is (lamentably) not something that I encounter every day. Subtle notes of nuts and straw and melon are just prominent enough to give this some character, but no so pushy as to steal the limelight from light, fresh foods, with which this would best be paired. 85 Michael Franz Sep 26, 2006

Quenard Chignin-Bergeron, Vin de Savoie AOC (France) Roussanne 2013 ($20, Kermit Lynch): Want to ease your bunco club off of Chardonnay in a very non-threatening manner? This is a huge mouthful of tropical fruit, with a silky soft mouth feel that is complimented by touches of nut and leaf. It's very long on the finish and remains well integrated throughout. It's great on its own, or will pair nicely with mild cheeses and nuts.
91 Rich Cook Oct 14, 2014

Domaine de L'Idylle, Vin de Savoie AOC (France) Jacquere "Cruet" 2011 ($12, Free Run LLC): very different sort of a white wine -- it presents as all stone minerals on the nose, but brings lively lemon zest and mild herbs to bear on the palate, in a dry, soft style with a lingering finish that brings aroma and flavor together. I'd pair this with a simple sea bass plate or grilled prawns -- and fairly often at this price!
89 Rich Cook Oct 14, 2014

Domaine Gilles Berlioz, Vin de Savoie AOC (France) Jacquere “Chignin” 2011 ($20, Free Run LLC): This is a very tart acidic style that begs for prosciutto wrapped asparagus. It shows pear, lemon and herbs in an intentionally very slightly oxidized package that enhances the flavors well. The acidity shortens the finish a bit at present, but should soften a bit with another year in the bottle. Quite interesting.
88 Rich Cook Oct 14, 2014

Marc Tempe, Alsace (France) Riesling Rodelsberg 2005 ($44, Vintage '59 Imports):

In contrast to the 2008 Zellenberg Riesling from Tempe (also reviewed this week), this wine is much riper and sweeter. However, it manages to stay focused thanks to abundant acidity, and is much more interesting than most Alsace Rieslings of this weight and sweetness because of a prominent spiciness that is quite unusual but very appealing. Packed with personality, like many Tempe wines, this is nevertheless a coherent wine regardless of its distinctiveness and complexity. 92 Michael Franz Aug 16, 2011

Josmeyer, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc "Mise du Printemps" 2004 ($27, Paterno Imports): Pinot Blanc represents the neutral baseline of the world's white wines in terms of aromas and flavors. But this Pinot Blanc is actually an exciting wine. On the nose it expresses broad, minerally notes as well as gentle floral character. In the mouth, it's medium-bodied and dry with mouth-watering acidity, a slightly oily texture and a medium intensity of flavor. It's not a big wine but its richness of texture gives it weight and substance. This is a wine to drink when you want to be refreshed without sacrificing quality and character. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Apr 4, 2006

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006 ($18, Pasternak Wine Imports):

Alsace Riesling usually highlights the mineral aspect of the varietal compared with the more floral expression of German Riesling. Albrecht's combines the best of both. Less floral than many, the minerality extends onto the palate and intermingles with attractive spice. The lively acidity adds a mouth-cleansing freshness that complements an enticing fleshiness in this dry Riesling.

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006 ($18, Pasternak Wine Imports):

Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV ($25, Quintessential):

Sadly, the wine drinking public often overlooks Crémant d’Alsace. By definition, a Crémant--be it from Alsace or Burgundy--is a sparkling wine that has fewer bubbles than Champagne. As such, Crémants are, as the name implies, creamier. Lorentz, one of the top Alsace producers, uses Pinot Noir exclusively for this Crémant Rosé. Its power is offset by a subtle creaminess, as the palate is flooded with the taste of wild strawberries. It’s a marvelous aperitif, but has enough stuffing to serve it with roast pork. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2011

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Noir “Le Rosé” 2017 ($18, Quintessential):

Although most people, with good reason, associated Alsace with white wines, such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer, or Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir actually accounts for roughly 10 percent of plantings in that region. This rosé of Pinot Noir comes from grapes planted at the foot and just outside of the Grand Cru vineyard, Altenberg de Bergheim. Gustave Lorentz, a family-run firm founded in the 19th century, is synonymous with Altenberg de Bergheim since they own almost 40 percent of that vineyard. The trio of a superb producer, a revered grape, and an excellent site explains why I’m enthusiastic about this rosé. Almost a light red, it conveys a hint of earthiness and delightful wild strawberry-like flavors. It’s a serious wine for summer salads, steamed mussels, or light pasta dishes.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2018

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Noir 'Le Rose' 2009 ($19, Quintessential): France’s eastern region of Alsace is better known for white wines than reds. In a good year Alsace Pinot Noir is a light fruity red wine at best, but this fresh and fruity Lorentz Alsace Rose illustrates why many winemakers claim that Pinot Noir makes the best pink wines. Medium-deep salmon-pink tinted, the aromatics are fresh berry with floral notes. The juicy flavors are slightly candied with cherry-berry notes and the wine finishes dry at 12.5% alcohol. Enjoy this nicely structured juicy rose with barbecued meats or a grilled mushroom Panini. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 24, 2010

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé NV ($21): A stunning expression of the sunny slopes in Alsace. This sparkling rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir using whole clusters in the methode traditionale. While aromas of strawberry rhubarb pie with a toasty butter crust greet the nose, the palate adds more tart characteristics of fresh raspberry and lemon zest.
92 Jessica Dupuy Apr 12, 2016

Louis Sipp, Alsace (France) Crémant d’Alsace NV ($25, Maritime Wine Trading Collective):

Like many Champagne companies, Domaine Louis Sipp was started by a woman, Louise Sipp, who acquired the first vineyard plots while her husband, Louis, was away at World War I’s Russian Front. There have been ups and downs, of course, in the intervening years, but today’s Louis Sipp Crémant is simply delicious. You can taste the gorgeous freshness that only impeccably grown and harvested fruit can convey. The tiny, elegant bubbles are perfect, and the complex aromas and flavors of this particular blend of grape varieties is pleasing indeed. It is light enough to be an excellent aperitif, but also has a robust enough character to be a good companion for light fare.
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 14, 2015

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Crémant d’Alsace Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($20, Pasternak Wine Imports): A light and airy sparkling wine with lively little bubbles, this fizz seems made for spring and summer sipping. The basic format is dry, but the total effect is softened by an almost imperceptible trace of sweetness. 89 Marguerite Thomas May 15, 2012

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Crémant d’Alsace Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($20, Pasternak Wine Imports): A light and airy sparkling wine with lively little bubbles, this fizz seems made for spring and summer sipping. The basic format is dry, but the total effect is softened by an almost imperceptible trace of sweetness. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jun 26, 2012

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Cremant d'Alsace NV ($25, Quintessential): Lorentz blends Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir for this light and frothy sparkler made by the traditional method. It has a pale straw color and a fine active mousse, while the low intensity aroma offers scents of citrus peel and dried flowers. Bright and tangy, the flavors are delicate with citrus notes, leading to a medium finish at 12% alcohol. This cremant is a good choice as an aperitif and with light hors d’oeuvres. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 24, 2010

Lucien Albrecht, Cremant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV ($24, Pasternak Wine Imports): You rarely hear about French sparkling wines made in regions other than Champagne, but I've tasted some really nice bubblies from Alsace--including this one. It has a pale salmon pink color and lots of fine, lively bubbles. The wine has bright citrus and strawberry flavors, with a creamy texture and crisp acidity. It finishes with a subtle lemon peel note. This tasty sparkler is a great choice for Thanksgiving dinner. 90 Tina Caputo Nov 25, 2008

Cave de Beblenheim, Crémant D’Alsace (France) “Black Rose” Brut NV ($12, W Direct):

This is an excellent Crémant made in the traditional method with 2.5 years on the lees. Like a true Champagne, this wine is mineral driven with wet chalk and river rocks supporting a structure of zippy pink grapefruit, strawberry, and kiwi. A light brioche-like yeastiness is woven in from the lees aging. This cooperative-made brut Rosé outperforms its price in every way and demonstrates the quality that puts these small-town cooperatives on the map. With a price under $20, this is what I will be drinking over the holiday season.
94 Vince Simmon Dec 27, 2022

Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut Rosé NV ($30, Quintessential Wines):

All Crémant d’Alsace is made by the traditional Champagne method, that is, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. What’s unique about Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, unlike other Crémant Rosé, such as Crémant de Bourgogne, for example, is that it must be made entirely from Pinot Noir. That regulation explains why Crémant d’Alsace Rosé in general is so good. Lorentz, not surprisingly since they are one of Alsace’s great names, makes an outstanding one. Nicely balanced, this sparkling Rosé is both refined and substantial. It holds up nicely to smoked salmon. It would also be a fine choice with summer salads.
93 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2021

Caves de Beblenheim, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Heimberger Blanc de Noirs NV ($18, Votto Vines Importing):

A Crémant d’Alsace Rosé is as safe a bet as you can get for a well-priced pink bubbly because regulations require it be made entirely from Pinot Noir. Moreover, believe it or not, Pinot Noir does well in Alsace, especially now with the enhanced ripening due to climate change. This wine also dispels the myth that co-ops don’t make good wine. This Blanc de Noirs (literally, “white from blacks,” but rosé in color) from Caves de Beblenheim, a co-op founded in 1952 and now comprising 152 growers, displays finesse and depth, which makes it a fine choice either as an aperitif or to accompany hearty fare, such as a seafood stew, grilled bluefish, or, if you are matching colors, grilled salmon. Its price makes it a fine choice for a large gathering.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 13, 2021

Domaine Pfister, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs 2011 ($30, Vintage ’59 Imports):

Generally speaking, most wine buyers turn to Crémants (sparkling wines) from across France -- including Alsace -- to get an affordable alternative to Champagne. This wine is indeed a little less expensive than all but the cheapest Champagnes, but that’s about the only respect in which it resembles other wines in its category. For starters, it is vintage dated. Moreover, it is a very high-quality wine made from equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, made in the traditional method (second fermentation performed in the bottle) and aged on its lees prior to disgorging for a full 34 months. It is both satisfyingly flavorful and impressively restrained, with superb balance and very nice texture thanks to unusually fine mousse. Very, very well made.
92 Michael Franz Sep 6, 2016

Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV ($30, Quintessential Wines):

Founded in 1836, Gustave Lorentz’s roots go back to the mid 17th century when the family was involved in barrel making and brokering wine. Today, they are recognized as one of Alsace’s top producers. Their Riesling from the Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard — they own a third of the vineyard — is always a sensational wine. They are also justifiably well-known for their late-harvest wines, which are always worth buying. Well, it turns out that Lorentz makes fine Crémant, as evidenced by this one and their Rosé. This one is a blend of about three-quarters Pinot Blanc, some Chardonnay and just a touch, 5 percent, of Riesling. It’s a blend that works, balancing good body and depth with a spice of acidity that keeps it fresh and lively. It has remarkable concentration in contrast to many Crémant that can come across and thin and acidic. It works well as a stand-alone aperitif, but has enough oomph to make it a fine choice with a meal, even spiced Asian fare.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2021

Pierre Sparr, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV ($19, Wilson Daniels):

Crémant d’Alsace Rosé must be made entirely from Pinot Noir, which helps explains why they, as a category, are very good. That Pierre Sparr, a top Alsace producer, made this one explains why it’s easy to recommend. Crémant (literally meaning, “creamy”), from Alsace or elsewhere, has about two-thirds the fizz as Champagne, which means they have a rounder texture. Sparr combined that texture with the power imparted by Pinot Noir and gives us a seductive salmon-colored bubbly with enough finesse to enjoy by itself, but sufficient power to hold up to meaty fish, such as salmon.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 29, 2015

Pierre Sparr, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Reserve NV ($19, Wilson Daniels): Sparr’s Crémant d’Alsace Brut has a completely different, yet equally attractive, profile compared to their Brut Rosé. Linear and cutting, it delivers an appealing creaminess that balances its firmness. It reminds us of the bargains that non-Champagne sparkling wines can provide. It, too, like their Rosé, does double-duty as an aperitif or as a match with grilled fish.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 29, 2015

Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) NV ($22, Quintessential Wines): Crémant d’Alsace, especially from a top producer like Lorentz, is a under-

appreciated category. Less “serious” than Champagne, this is a creamy, soothing bubbly that is perfect for summer sipping. Dry and invigorating, without being astringent or aggressive, it works equally well with grilled fish or other main courses as it does as an aperitif. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012

Joseph Cattin, Crémant d’Alsace (France) “Brut Cattin” NV ($15, T. Edward Wines):

Crémant d’Alsace continues to gain in popularity, accounting for a quarter of the region’s production. The real gem in that category for me is the Crémant Rosé, which, by law, must be made entirely from Pinot Noir. The creaminess of this pink bubbly by Cattin makes it a fine stand-alone aperitif. It works equally well with spicy shrimp or sushi because it has the requisite oomph imparted by Pinot Noir.
89 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2016

Schoenheitz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV ($20, Oz Wine Company): Looking for a bright and zesty sparkling wine for summertime sipping? Here’s one suggestion from Alsace, a place well-known for its Riesling, Gewurztraminer and other still white wines, but somehow under the radar for bubbly. Its creamy suaveness is nicely balanced by an invigorating crisp edginess. Its “under the radar” status explains why it delivers more than the price suggests. 89 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012

Domaine Rieflé, Crémant d’Alsace Brut (France) “Bonheur Festif” NV ($20, Maritime Wine Trading Collective):

In my experience, Crémant d’Alsace usually disappoints, as the wines too often taste coarse and one-dimensional, especially when compared to Champagnes. This fully dry brut is forcing me to reassess. It’s toasty and complex, with delicate bubbles, and a beautiful, lingering finish. Considering that it costs roughly half as much as non-vintage brut Champagne, you’ll be missing something special if you don’t try it.
91 Paul Lukacs Apr 28, 2015

Helfrich, Cremant d'Alsace (France) NV ($22, Advantage International):

Sometimes you want a bubbly that is content to play a supporting role and not interfere with the fabulous appetizers or salad that you’ve spent a lot of time preparing. This cleansing wine -- made from the wonderfully food-friendly Pinot Blanc variety -- won’t fight for the spotlight, preferring to make whatever you’ve slaved over taste just a little bit better. Its focused acidity and stony minerality, complimented by faint apple and pear notes, will set your guests up for the next delectable bite of your culinary wizardry. I loved it with a salad of spinach, baby lettuce, radicchio, Pippin apple, pistachio and blue cheese in an herb vinaigrette.
90 Rich Cook Nov 11, 2014

Lucien Albrecht, Cremant d'Alsace (France) Brut Rosé NV ($18, Pasternak Wine Imports):

Bubbly from Alsace seems to be getting better and better. No, it’s not nuanced and biscuity like Champagne, but then neither is it sappy (like most Proseccos), lacking in fruit (like most Cavas), or one-dimensional (like most sparklers from the Loire). You can buy more complex and compelling fizz, but doing so will cost you at least twice as much as this wine. Its crisp apple flavors and long, toasty finish prove delightful -- and it’s affordable to boot.
90 Paul Lukacs Jun 21, 2016

Lucien Albrecht, Cremant d'Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV ($18, Pasternak Wine Imports): Crémant d’Alsace, which is made by the traditional (Champagne)

method from any of the Alsace grapes except Gewurztraminer and Chasselas, is an under-appreciated category of sparkling wine. As a category they are lighter and less complex than Champagne, but when talented producers, such as Albrecht, make them, they deliver considerable pleasure. In this brightly pink colored Pinot Noir based bubbly captivating hints of strawberry-like fruit burst forth. A creamy mousse adds an unexpected roundness--it’s still nicely crisp--and explains why it’s a perfect aperitif. But it has plenty of stuffing to stand up to food so don’t be shy about bringing it to the table. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010

Pierre Sparr, Crémant d'Alsace (France) Brut Rosé NV ($20, Wilson Daniels): Lean and tangy, this pretty orangish-pink dry rosé charms with its restraint. It's not austere, there are strawberry notes, but it has polish and grace. Good with or without food. 12% alcohol.
90 W. Blake Gray Jan 15, 2013

Pierre Sparr, Crémant d'Alsace (France) Brut Réserve NV ($15, Wilson Daniels): A little on the sweet side for a Brut, this wine has an approachable apple flavor that should make it a crowd pleaser with enough freshness and restraint to keep it from being banal. 12% alcohol.
87 W. Blake Gray Nov 5, 2013

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling Clos Ste Hune 2001 ($150, Diageo Chateau & Estates): The Clos Sainte Hune is a small parcel within the Grand Cru Rosacker vineyard in the village of Hunawihr that has been owned exclusively by the Trimbach family for more than 200 years. In the Trimbach tradition, the label will never carry its Grand Cru designation despite the grandeur of the wine, which many authorities believe is Alsace’s finest. The 2001 Clos Ste Hune is simply glorious. At almost 10 years of age, it is just starting to show its phenomenal complexity. Each note—minerals, earth, and fruit—speaks clearly and then, almost paradoxically, they meld together seamlessly to emerge as a different flavor profile. But throughout, its core of steely minerality persists and invigorates. It’s a riveting wine that expands with each sip.
97 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010

Albert Boxler, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Grand Cru Brand 2015 ($75, Kermit Lynch):

Yes, this wine is expensive, but it’s also stunning, with remarkable depth, complexity, and a finish that lingers effortlessly for literally minutes. Its structure is firm and its balance impeccable, so while luscious, it hardly seems sugary. Few grand cru white Burgundies are as exciting.
96 Paul Lukacs Apr 17, 2018

Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Clos Windsbuhl 2014 ($75, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

This seven-year-old wine is luscious, yet restrained and elegant. It has a light golden color and rich, ripe pear aromas with an earthy, mineral note. It feels round and smooth in the mouth with rich flavors of baked pear and apricot, laced with notes of white pepper and honey resting on a foundation of discretely firm acidity and a mouthwatering finish. The estate’s website noted that challenging growing conditions were such that, “over-ripeness was hard to achieve in 2014.” The grapes come from the 5.5 hectare (13.5 acres) Clos Windbuhl vineyard that has a history that can be traced to the early 1300s. Its altitude is 350 above sea level on a south to southwest slope. The Zind Humbrect family acquired the vineyard in 1987. They began organic and biodynamic farming in 1997 were certified organic 1998 by Ecocert, and certified biodynamic by Biodyvin / Ecocert in 2002.
95 Rebecca Murphy Aug 24, 2021

Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling “Jubilee” 2005 ($51, Frederick Wildman): Hugel, one of Alsace’s top producers, eschews the Alsace’s Grand Cru classification system. They believe politics trumped terroir when vineyards

were awarded Grand Cru status. Hence, the Grand Cru designation will never appear on Hugel’s labels even though the wines come from Grand Cru sites. Instead, Hugel’s top wines are labeled “Jubilee.” Don’t miss this one. Not only Grand Cru in every dimension, it shows the grandeur that Riesling achieves when aged. This is a glorious wine, filled with minerality, earthiness and a seemingly endless finish. Vibrant acidity keeps it fresh and lively while amplifying the flavors. 95 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012

Josmeyer, Alsace (France) Riesling "Le Kottabe" 2004 ($27, Paterno): Owner/winemaker Jean Meyer is one of the most driven producers in the world. He farms his vineyards bio-dynamically and strives for perfection in the bottle once the grapes have been delivered to the winery. His wines are among the driest and tightest in Alsace, but they are pristine in flavor and aroma and age magnificently. The 2004 "Kottabe" Riesling from Josmeyer has a firm backbone, intense minerality and tightly bound flavors and aromas that will only begin to evolve after a few years in the bottle. And 2004 was a very, very good vintage in this part of the world. 95 Robert Whitley Mar 21, 2006

Schoffit, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Clos Saint-Theobald 2013 ($60):

This isn’t the most forceful or attention-grabbing Riesling I’ve tasted from Alsace recently, but for sheer proportionality and stylishness and overall beauty, it would be my choice. It achieves wonderful expressiveness in both aroma and flavor in a dry style, yet leaves an overall impression of coolness and restraint. This is attributable to impeccable balance and integration, as all of the components seem perfectly interwoven. Wines like this have a rare ability to retain their proportionality even as they age and gain complexity in the bottle, and I’ll be keeping an eye on this as it develop over the next decade.
95 Michael Franz Nov 15, 2016

Schoffit, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Clos Saint-Theobald 2013 ($60):

This isn’t the most forceful or attention-grabbing Riesling I’ve tasted from Alsace recently, but for sheer proportionality and stylishness and overall beauty, it would be my choice. It achieves wonderful expressiveness in both aroma and flavor in a dry style, yet leaves an overall impression of coolness and restraint. This is attributable to impeccable balance and integration, as all of the components seem perfectly interwoven. Wines like this have a rare ability to retain their proportionality even as they age and gain complexity in the bottle, and I’ll be keeping an eye on this as it develops over the next decade. Just when it seemed that exciting dry-style German Rieslings and terrific renditions from Austria, Canada, Australia, New York and Michigan were going to push Alsace down onto a lower tier on the Global Riesling Totem Pole, along comes a beauty like this.
95 Michael Franz Dec 13, 2016

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling 'Cuvee Frederic Emile' 2002 ($60, Diageo Chateau & Estates):

Trimbach, like other leading Alsace producers, Hugel and Beyer, eschews the Alsace Grand Cru classification system of vineyards, insisting that when the boundaries were drawn they included inferior sites. Hence, even though the grapes for this wine come exclusively from the core of the Grand Cru sites of Geisberg and Osterberg, on the steep slope directly behind their winery, Grand Cru does not appear on the label. Instead they name the wine Cuvée Frédéric Emile, honoring one of the Trimbachs from the 19th century who greatly expanded the business. A marvelous expression of Alsace Riesling, the 2002 Cuvée Frédéric Emile is not to be missed. Wonderfully ripe, yet dry and mineraly, it has extraordinary vivacity and length. The wine retains its focus and steely character even as the flavors expand and explode on the palate. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Brand Vendange Tardive Grand Cru 2004 ($140, The Sorting Table): The remarkable thing about this late harvest wine from Turkheim's famous Brand vineyard is the impeccable balance. It has a lovely burnished gold color and a complex, layered nose with dried apricot and spice notes and a waxy back note. Richly textured flavors are layered with mineral-citrus tinges, dried apricots, and an intriguing touch of ginger, all of which follow to an impressively persistent finish. 95 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2005 ($94, The Sorting Table): Delicious is the best way to describe this multi-faceted wine. Honey

and ripe pineapple combine to offer aromas and flavors akin to Pineapple Upside Down Cake. The wine has great structure, well-defined flavors, and a long flavor-packed finish. 95 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Albert Mann, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Furstentum 2013 ($45):

Despite the fact that Mann winemaker Maurice Barthelmé told me that 2014 is THE vintage for Alsace’s best Riesling producers, this 2013 offering from the Grand Cru Furstentum vineyard is so striking that I can only wonder how good the 2014 may be. This is very rich and generous in initial impression, with mandarin orange notes at the forefront. Despite its opulence, the wine shows lots of inner energy, and I was extremely surprised to learn that if contains 17 grams per liter of residual sugar, as it actually tastes fruity but not sweet. A gorgeous wine.
94 Michael Franz Nov 15, 2016

Domaine Weinbach, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg “Cuvée Sainte Catherine” 2006 ($75, Vineyard Brands):

The all-female Faller family produces stunning Rieslings from its biodynamically farmed vineyards. The wines are typically very rich yet dry-tasting, as is this Cuvée Sainte Catherine, which shows fine minerality, candied lime peel, yellow peach and tropical fruit notes, all kept fresh by vibrant acidity. 94 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Domaine Weinbach, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2004 ($30, Vineyard Brands): This is a stunning wine from a superb vintage. Full bodied, rich and generous in the mouth with aromas of brioche, honey and tropical fruit. There is a subtle thread of minerality that runs behind the fruit. And this isn't even Weinbach's top Riesling, but it will do for starters. 94 Robert Whitley Oct 11, 2005

Hugel & Fils, Alsace (France) Riesling “Jubilee” 2007 ($55, Frederick Wildman):

Hugel, along with Trimbach and Beyer, other stellar Alsace producers, vigorously oppose the Grand Cru categorization of Alsace vineyards despite their ownership in many vineyards that received Grand Cru status. They believe the classification system is flawed because it includes inferior sites that dilute quality. Hence, although this wine comes exclusively from the heart of the Grand Cru Schoenenberg vineyard, Hugel labels it Jubilee instead using the vineyard name.
It’s Grand Cru nonetheless. Tightly wound at this young stage, it needs several more years for its glory to show. (Look for the Hugel’s 2004 Jubilee Riesling for current drinking). As enjoyable as Hugel’s regular Riesling is, this one is just classier with more layers. It has good weight and concentration without being heavy or awkward. Flavors of earth, minerals and apple-like fruit unfold slowly from the glass. The firm acidity gives it backbone and precision, which makes the flavors reverberate. 94 Michael Apstein Feb 15, 2011

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Reserve 2015 ($18, Esprit du Vin):

Trimbach is a top producer in Alsace with twelve generations of winemaking history. Their 2015 Reserve Pinot Gris shows every ounce of quality expected. The wine shows a beautiful blend of floral, mineral, baked fruit, and bready notes that make each sip feel magical. With eight years of age already, this wine is ready to be enjoyed now through 2025.
94 Vince Simmon Dec 6, 2022

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Rangen Clos St. Urbain 2013 ($85):

This famous house is a favorite for many lovers of Alsace wines, but I confess to being somewhat ambivalent. The wines are almost always striking in some respect, but often I find them rather overblown or too sweet to suit my palate (and my culinary preferences). With that noted, I must say that I have no reservations regarding this particular release, and indeed found it eye-poppingly delicious and stylistically exciting. The big, billowing bouquet exudes sexiness and is highly alluring, and the flavors really deliver on all that aromatic promise. Rich in body for a Riesling (from anywhere in the world), the flavors are almost dark in tone, suggesting candied fruits and even showing a smoky character that I associate more with Pinot Gris than Riesling. And yet, despite all the richness, the wine is nicely structured with acidity and almost grainy in its minerality, which is quite uncanny when considered in tandem with its prodigious palate weight. Similarly, the wine comes off as natural and graceful despite its flamboyance, which is a remarkable accomplishment. This is quite the thrill ride, and you must taste it if you can.
94 Michael Franz Nov 15, 2016

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim Vendage Tardive 2011 ($33, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):

Though labeled, late harvest (“vendage tardive”), which would imply sweetness, this Gewürztraminer is not any sweeter than Zind-Humbrecht’s regular bottling. It’s just more concentrated, with a dash of botrytis-like richness and a racy vibrancy in the finish. A subtle and appealing bitterness in the finish reinforces the impression that this wine is not about sweetness, but rather concentration. It would be a fabulous option to accompany a cheese course. A half bottle will serve six people easily because of the wine’s concentration and richness, so it’s actually well priced.
94 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2014

Albert Boxler, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg “E” 2005 ($65, Robert Chadderdon Selections): Starts with effusive aromas of minerals and white grapefruit, and continues its purity with racy acidity plumping rich ruby grapefruit and white peach flavors, and a stream of minerality running through it all. It's stunningly delicious and ageworthy. 93 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Domaine Marcel Deiss, Alsace (France) “Grasberg” 2016 ($54, Becky Wasserman Selection):

This lively and endlessly salty Grasberg is mainly based on Riesling and Gewurztraminer. It is appealingly pure, with suggestions of lush baked apple, almond, citrus, and spice aroma. Full-bodied, rich and round, is offers a residual sweetness that accentuates the apple, sultana, and spice flavors. The fruit flavors are plump, rich, and ample, leading to an enveloping mouthfeel that continues to a fresh, focused, and captivating finish.
93 Miranda Franco Apr 26, 2022

Domaine Jean-Luc Mader, Alsace (France) Riesling Rosacker Grand Cru 2005 ($25, Elite Imports):

From grapes grown in the esteemed Rosacker Grand Cru vineyard in Hunawihr, one of Alsace's prettiest little villages, this beautiful Riesling has strata of intense fruited flavors including tangerine and other citrus. It is harmonious and beautifully balanced, with a long, satisfying finish. 93 Marguerite Thomas Mar 6, 2007

Domaine Léon Boesch, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris "Le Coq" 2020 ($31, Potomac Selections):

There are wines that immediately capture a wide range of consumers and there are those wines that are unique and high quality, meant for true wine nerds. Le Coq — the Rooster — is a wine made for oenophiles. The nose is complex with fresh lily, baby’s breath, and melon notes. On the body, the wine shows stone fruit, dried white rose petals, bruised pear, wax, almond, and a plethora of acidity that helps all the flavors leap out of the glass. Alsace Pinot Gris is known for being more complex and fuller bodied — distinctly different from Italian Pinot Grigio. Domaine Léon harvests their fruit from their 14.5 hectares, all organically and biodynamically farmed. Their family farm style of winemaking gives every detail the attention it needs to produce quality wine and it shows marvelously in the glass.
93 Vince Simmon Dec 19, 2023

Domaine Weinbach, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer “Cuvée Théo” 2012 ($38, Vineyard Brands):

Drinking a glass of wonderful Gewurztraminer can be a heady experience. That potpourri of rose and jasmine aromas! The rich, glossy sweetness laced together with a thread of acidity! Cuvée Théo is not exactly like that, although it certainly has the beguiling fragrance and sweet/tart duality that characterize the best Gewurztraminers. Théo is more a contemplative than a va-va-voom kind of wine, full of hidden flavor and textural secrets to be teased out by the discerning taster. Like many other impressive estates in Alsace, Weinbach is a Biodynamic domaine, which is now run by Catherine Faller and her son, Théo. The grapes for this Gewurztraminer are from the Clos des Capucins, a historic walled-in vineyard that encircles the estate.
93 Marguerite Thomas Jun 30, 2015

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2016 ($25, Quintessential):

Gewurztraminer is an idiosyncratic wine -- people seem either to love or hate it. Complicating its popularity is an undisclosed level of sweetness, not unlike an impediment to enjoying Riesling. Gustave Lorentz, a classic name in Alsace, makes impeccable wines. This Gewurztraminer is one of them. Dry, aromatic, and spicy, its slightly bitter finish makes it a great companion to Asian or any full-flavored food.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2018

Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling Estate 2012 ($35, Frederick Wildman & Sons):

Sourced entirely from vineyards owned by the Hugel family, this wine bears an “Estate” inscription on the label that is very much worth watching for. It gets off to a great start with a very bight, expressive bouquet and follows up with a fresh, zesty, lemony finish that just won’t quit. Energetic and taut for now but built to unwind and improve for years to come, this is a terrific wine and an excellent value.
93 Michael Franz Nov 15, 2016

Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Wiebelsberg 2005 ($53, Wilson Daniels): Few Alsace Rieslings offer the complexity and intrigue that this one does. It smells a bit like Gewurztraminer, very spicy, floral and with a hint of botrytis, and the palate delivers luscious white peach, lemon pie, fennel and lime zest flavors, and rock quarry minerality. Delicious now, it begs the question of how it will taste in five years or more. 93 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Marc Tempé, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Zellenberg 2006 ($25, Vintage '59 Imports): This is one of the two or three best Pinot Blancs I've ever tasted from Alsace, which is in turn universally regarded as one of the finest sources for Pinot Blanc in the world. It shows lovely aromatic complexity, real weight and depth on the palate, delicious flavors of ripe pears and baked apples, and a finish that is remarkably bright and clean for a wine from 2006. I showed this at a tasting at a culinary academy alongside some excellent wines including some pricey Rieslings, and this was the consensus winner of the evening. Think that no Pinot Blanc could merit 93 points? Taste this with an open mind--and you'll come away with a changed mind. 93 Michael Franz May 5, 2009

Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Saering 2012 ($35):

This house is fortunate to possess the single most enviable swath of vineyards in all of Alsace, but the wines weren’t always terribly exciting in years past. That has changed recently, with many of the different bottlings showing much better focus, structure, and overall stylishness. This is a good case in point, with subtle aromas showing light floral notes and mid-palate flavors that suggest citrus fruits above all. Stony, mineral notes kick in on the finish, and as the wine warms a bit in the glass, it shows ever greater complexity while retaining its beautiful proportionality. This will improve for years to come and is definitely a wine to buy -- as I definitely plan to do.
93 Michael Franz Nov 15, 2016

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Réserve Personnelle 2012 ($50, Esprit du Vin):

From one of the most respected producers in Alsace, this now fully mature wine tastes of fruit but also savory herbs, hay, and spice. Wonderfully nuanced, it is just a tad sweet, but also supple and harmonious.
93 Paul Lukacs Apr 17, 2018

Albert Mann, Alsace (France) Auxerrois "Vieilles Vignes" 2007 ($20, Weygandt-Metzler): Though I rarely think of Alsatian Auxerrois as a high-class grape, this is definitely a high-class wine. Widely planted in the region, Auxerrois typically is used as a blending grape, giving heft and substance to wines labeled Pinot Blanc, and so seldom is seen on a label of its own. A progeny of Pinot and an obscure variety called Gouais Blanc, it has naturally low acidity, so offers advantages when grown in cool, northern climes. (It is widely planted, for example, in Luxembourg, the most northerly of all European wine-producing countries.) This wine offers vivid citrus and stone fruit flavors, enhanced with a hint of honey and a distinct echo of minerality in its long, layered finish. Though young, it shares a certain resemblance with more mature wines, and is deliciously nuanced. I would not advise cellaring it for too long; but if you want a classy white for drinking over the next two to three years, I recommend it with real excitement. 92 Paul Lukacs Aug 4, 2009

Albert Mann, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris 2004 ($32, Weygandt-Metzler):

Much Alsatian Pinot Gris, while certainly tasty, seems honeyed to the point of distraction, making the wines difficult to enjoy with food. This one, though, gets the balance of lush, ripe fruit and countering acidity right, so the wine, while luxuriously-flavored, still seems refreshing. It has a long, layered finish and seductive pear and spice flavors. For a wine of this quality, the price is more than fair. 92 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2007

Albert Mann, Alsace (France) Riesling “Cuvée Albert” 2009 ($25, Peter Weygant Selections):

Classic-tasting, meaning marked by crisp apple and citrus fruit flavors with mineral-laden undertones and a vibrant streak of acidity, this Riesling should age effortlessly for a good five to ten years, becoming ever more nuanced as time passes. Dry but definitely fruit-filled, it is fairly-priced given the high quality in the bottle.
92 Paul Lukacs Mar 22, 2011

Domaine Marcel Deiss, Alsace (France) “Engelgarten” 2018 ($42, Becky Wasserman Selection):

Diess believes that the terroir of Alsace wine at the highest levels is the field blend. Instead of growing separate blocks of varieties, Deiss prefers field blends that showcase the vineyard, not the grape. The results are unique and inviting, as evidenced in this field blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Beurot, Muscat, and Pinot Noir. The 2018 bursts with yellow apple, tangerine, mango peel, citrus, and a vigorous crushed-stone core. Broad and intricately layered, the palate is full of taut energy and acidity. This stretches out for days before finishing.
92 Miranda Franco Apr 26, 2022

Domaine Bott-Geyl, Alsace (France) "Points Cardinaux Métiss” 2016 ($15, Roanoke Valley Wine Company):

This lovely white wine is broad, deep, supple and delicate. Its flavors include intricate nuances of apricot, citrus and honey, along with a touch of wild mint and clear mineral notes. The Bott-Geyl family has owned this domaine since 1795 but that doesn’t mean they haven’t evolved with the times -- they have, and then some! Among other examples of their contemporary practices was transitioning the vineyards to Biodynamic in 2002. For the wordsmiths amongst us, “Points Cardinaux” -- cardinal points, or the four points on a compass -- is likely a reference to the four Pinots in the blend. And by the way, this white wine could surely be aged for 5 to 7 years. A blend of 40% Pinot Blanc, 40% Pinot Auxerrois, 10% Pinot Gris and 10% Pinot Noir (vinified as white wine).
92 Marguerite Thomas Jan 29, 2019

Domaine Ostertag, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Heissenberg 2007 ($40, Kermit Lynch): This wine truly deserves it Grand Cru designation. It has an alluring, almost lacey, combination of clean minerality and delicate white floral notes. The interplay between the two along with subtle peach-like nuances means you never tire of tasting--drinking--it. Vibrant acidity keeps it lively and fresh, perfect for the summer’s heat, if you can wait that long. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 11, 2011

Domaine Pfister, Alsace (France) “Cuvée 8” 2014 ($35, Vintage ’59 Imports): Domaine Pfister has emerged as one of the top houses in Alsace during recent years, and the exceptional quality and consistency of Pfister’s wines is demonstrated by this highly interesting bottling. I’ve also reviewed Pfister’s Pinot Gris this week, and just as that wine stands apart from others in its category because of its admirably clean finish, this blend stands above its counterparts because of the intricacy and subtlety of its bouquet. It is comprised of 50% Riesling, 30% Pinot Gris, 15% Gewürztraminer and 5% Muscat, but whereas the floral aromas of the latter two varieties dominate almost all Alsace blends, they are only accents in this wine. Medium-bodied, with layered aromas and flavors, this is an extremely promising partner for almost any dish appropriate for pairing with white wines -- not just spicy ones that show well with perfumed blends.
92 Michael Franz Sep 6, 2016

Domaine Pfister, Alsace (France) Riesling "Tradition" 2011 ($22, Vintage '59 Imports): This is an unusual Alsace Riesling in stylistic terms, but also one of manifestly outstanding quality. The floral aspect of the grape variety is rather suppressed in this rendition, but the wine shows very prominent minerality that marks not only the finish, but even the mid-palate, which is quite striking. Rich and concentrated but not overtly sweet, the wine shows medium-plus body, with excellent balance and purity. Delicious!
92 Michael Franz Dec 10, 2013

Domaine Weinbach, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Reserve 2015 ($22, Vineyaard Brands): An aromatically more complex rendition than the less costly Alsatians recommended above, this wine offers similar fruit flavors but enhances them with a bouquet reminiscent of sweet honeysuckle and spring flowers. 92 Paul Lukacs May 9, 2017

Famille Hugel, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer "Classic" 2014 ($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons):

Gewürztraminer, with its overtly spicy and floral components, is a wine people either love or hate. Although I’m in the “love” category, I still find it frustrating because of the unknown level of sweetness it conveys, from steely dry to rather sweet. The solution is to remember a few producers whose style you like. Hugel ranks among the top on my list -- for all their wines, not just Gewürztraminer. With their Gewürztraminer, they manage to produce a dry, medium-bodied one with good density without perceptible sweetness. It’s a good choice for spicy sushi, Indian or other Asian cuisine or with cheese.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2018

Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling "Classic" 2019 ($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):

Poised on France’s eastern border, Alsace is truly a unique and fascinating region. Sheltered by the Vosges Mountains, Alsace is one of the driest wine regions in France. Riesling is the premier grape cultivated here, and like the best of the region’s Rieslings Hugel’s “Classic” is genuinely dry and stony, with traces of lemon, apple and citrus. This elegant wine has a medium-weight body. The estate has been owned and run by the Hugel family since 1902.
92 Marguerite Thomas Nov 9, 2021

Josmeyer, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Brand 2012 ($70):

A very lean, fresh expression of Alsace Riesling with a very low 3 grams per liter of residual sugar, this is a bit tight for the moment, but a very classy wine for pairing with lighter seafood dishes now (or somewhat more robust foods after it loosens up and fills out in the many years of positive development that lie ahead for it).
92 Michael Franz Nov 1, 2016

Léon Beyer, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris 2017 ($28, Banville Wine Merchants):

Léon Beyer Pinot Gris is a real charmer, from its vivid yellow-gold color and cedar aromas to its zesty minerality and perfectly balanced freshness. Full-bodied and unctuous, bursting with spice notes, lush peach, mandarin, and honeysuckle flavors that are marked by mouthwatering, brisk acidity. It is an eminently quaffable wine on its own, yet highly versatile as a palate-cleansing food companion.
92 Miranda Franco Feb 7, 2023

Léon Beyer, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2015 ($28, Banville Wine Merchants):

Léon Beyer is a good name to remember when buying Alsace wines because theirs are always precise and excellent. This Gewürztraminer, for example, his bone dry, almost steely, accented by the spiciness for which the grape is known. Those consumers who have been put off by Gewürztraminer because of residual sugar ought to try this one. It’s a great choice for roast pork, spicy Asian fare, or Indian food.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2018

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2005 ($38, Pasternak Wine Imports): Commands immediate attention with its crushed-rock aroma, which, for the uninitiated, is a very good thing. Very spicy and rich in red apple, apricot and orange zest flavors, it's focused, long on the finish and worth a stay in the cellar for 10 years or more. 92 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2001 ($35, Pasternak): Albrecht's regular Riesling is always quite good and well priced at about $15. This one, from the Grand Cru vineyard, Pfingstberg, is glorious. With lots of intensity and minerality, it delivers everything you'd expect from a grand cru vineyard. I recorked the unfinished bottle, stored it in the fridge overnight, and found it equally enjoyable the second day. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005

Mader, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker 2002 ($22, Elite Wines): Still available at the wholesale level, this terrific wine from the excellent 2002 vintage is just now hitting its peak. Lovely notes of green apples and nectarines are interlaced with light floral accents and moderately intense mineral notes that ride right through the long, symmetrical finish. Essentially dry but nicely concentrated and very generous in flavor, this is a superbly balanced, beautifully stylish wine. 92 Michael Franz Mar 27, 2007

Mader, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker 2002 ($24, Elite Wines): Still available in many markets (if in quite limited quantities), this is a stunning wine from the excellent 2002 vintage in Alsace. Gorgeous floral and mineral acccents are intertwined with deep notes of ripe apples and pears in a medium-bodied format that shows excellent interplay between fruit and acidity. Complete and convincing. 92 Michael Franz Feb 27, 2007

Mader, Alsace (France) Riesling 2016 ($24, Elite Wines):

Like all good Riesling from Alsace this one from Mader is full of grace and charm. Full flavored and soft on the palate, the wine is dry and flinty, with elements of stone fruits, plus suggestions of beeswax on the persistent finish. This wine should age beautifully. Mader is a 100% certified Biodynamic estate.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 9, 2018

Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace (France) Riesling Andlau 2006 ($27, Wilson Daniels): Everyone, including me, seems to be beating the drums these days for crisp white wines to slake a summer thirst. You would think a Kreydenweiss Riesling might be the ticket, but you would be wrong. Kreydenweiss' Andlau Riesling is no quaffer. This is serious stuff, with the depth and weight of a classic white from Alsace, exceptional length and complexity, and a modest price considering its class. Rich notes of honey, spice and red citrus dominate the front of the palate, but the wine finishes with clean, fresh acidity and perceptible minerality. A beauty that will age nicely for up to 15 years. 92 Robert Whitley May 6, 2008

Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace (France) Clos du Val d'Eleon 2004 ($21, Wilson Daniels):

The only problem with this wine is scarcity. Only 50 cases were imported and I'd love two or three just for myself. Kreydenweiss is one of a growing number of producers in Alsace to switch over to biodynamic farm, which in itself is an indication of the care that goes into each bottle of wine. The '04 Clos du Val d'Eleon is a 50-50 blend of Pinot Gris and Riesling, made in a dry style though the finished wine delivers plenty of mouth-watering fullness on the palate, with notes of citrus and stone fruit and penetrating minerality. 92 Robert Whitley Dec 5, 2006

Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace (France) Riesling-Pinot Gris L'Ame de la Terre "Val d'Eleon" 2006 ($36, Wilson Daniels): Few Vignerons in the Alsace region produce dry wines with as much depth and complexity as Kreydenweiss. His Val d'Eleon is a blend of equal parts Riesling and Pinot Gris and delivers the heady aromas of a good Riesling -- minerals, honey, brioche -- combined with the ripe pear and melon flavors that Pinot Gris can bring. Though the alcohol level is modest (12.5 percent) there is richness and weight on the palate to stand up to strong flavors from the kitchen, and the balance and power is there to suggest this wine will improve in the bottle over the next seven-to-ten years. 92 Robert Whitley Aug 19, 2008

Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Kritt “Les Charmes” 2005 ($20, Wilson Daniels):

I love Pinot Blanc, which is mishandled by lots of winemakers and misunderstood by many consumers, but can be very convincing stuff at its best. This rendition is somewhere near as good as Pinot Blanc gets, and if you can resist its considerable charms, you are probably immune. The aromas are marvelous, with fruit notes of baked apple and ripe pear, along with a lovely note of honey and some subtle mineral accents. Medium-bodied, with real substance but also good freshness and lift, this is just terrific.

Mittnacht-Klack, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker 2005 ($60, Dee-Vine Wines): The grapes are grown in calcareous soil, and the result is a wine that, in its youth, shows abundant minerality, racy pink grapefruit and other citrus flavors, and a refreshing lashing of acidity. It's a very full-bodied yet fresh-tasting wine, with an admirable balance of sweetness and acidity. Not yet available in the USA, and this price is just a guesstimate, but this is worth remembering. 92 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Paul Blanck, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2012 ($38): Conspicuously rich, with lots of mandarin and some light tropical notes, this is a big wine for an Alsace Riesling, and yet it is nearly as graceful as it is impressive. Mineral tinges and other nuances emerge as one re-tastes this, and I suspect the wine’s sheer size obscures this layered character at first blush.
92 Michael Franz Nov 1, 2016

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2012 ($25, Esprit du Vin / Palm Bay International):

Trimbach is well known to American wine lovers, and is widely mistaken for a big producer based on its high sales and profile in the USA. The fact, however, is that Trimbach is really just a small-to-medium-sized producer, and this helps to explain how the family manages to maintain extremely high quality standards regardless of the growing conditions in any particular vintage. This Réserve bottling from 2012 shows the house’s dry style, yet there’s nothing austere about its flavor or finish. Notes of green apple and citrus fruit are bright but also substantial, with prominent but still bright acidity. Already delicious, this should become even more complex aromatically over the next 3 to 5 years without losing its freshness. Note that this review refers to the “Réserve” bottling when shopping, as this designation appears in rather small print on a label that is otherwise indistinguishable from Trimbach’s entry-level Riesling.
92 Michael Franz Mar 1, 2016

Willm, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr 2009 ($20, Touton): What a buy! With a whiff of cherries--I can see why the vineyard’s called Kirchberg--and bracing minerality, this is truly grand cru Riesling. Long and precise, it awakens the palate without assaulting it. A glass on a hot summer’s day is refreshingly clean and bright, but a couple of glasses with grilled swordfish and a caper butter sauce is even better. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Heimbourg 2004 ($50, The Sorting Table): Everything you look for in a focused Gewurz is in this wine: rose petal aromas, exotic spice, hints of petrol, freshness and, above all, rich texture and depth of flavor. Although Heimbourg is finished with noticeable sweetness and 15% alcohol, it tastes and finishes dry, with a supple fruitiness. 92 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann “Clos St. Urbain” 2008 ($70, The Sorting Table):

Zind-Humbrecht is arguably the most renowned name in Alsace. The Clos St. Urbain is a particular plot within the Grand Cru Rangen vineyard (Thann is the town). This rich and lush Pinot Gris delivers ripe pear-like flavors coupled with subtle pineappley undertones. The decadence is balanced by bracing acidity and even saline notes, which means the wine finishes dry. It’s an intense, yet balanced, wine that calls for hearty fare, such as grilled bluefish. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012

Albert Mann , Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2010 ($17, Weygandt-Metzler): I have never met an Albert Mann wine I didn’t love, and this one is no exception. It’s got just about everything an excellent white wine from Alsace should have including mouthwatering aroma, complex flavors mingling fruit and minerality, a silky texture, and just the right amount of clean, refreshing acidity. It also has its own distinct personality: delicately smoky, slightly spicy, entirely delicious. 91 Marguerite Thomas Sep 11, 2012

Domaine Barmès-Buecher, Alsace (France) “7 Grains” 2020 ($23, Dionysos Imports):

Though French in name and classification, Alsace wines have German influence. Alsatian winemakers have even adapted the German practice of labeling wines by grape variety rather than a place name. Alsace's white wines make up over 90% of the region’s production, and the breadth of grapes, soils, and styles make this region a gold mine for wine lovers to explore. To begin, start with the 2020 7 Grains, which assembles Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Pinot Noir, and Chasselas to create a stimulating Alsatian blend. This juice is combined with the free-run juice from the entire harvest. The smell of honeysuckle and orange peel, the vibrant acidity, and the layered flavors of the wine perfectly capture the unique growing conditions of Alsace.
91 Miranda Franco Jun 7, 2022

Domaine Pfister, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris "Tradition" 2014 ($28, Vintage ’59 Imports): I love almost every wine category from Alsace (which is saying a lot, as this French region works with more grape varieties than almost any other, and makes sparklers and blends as well), but a conspicuous exception is Pinot Gris. For reasons that aren’t easy to understand, almost all producers in the region finish the wines with a high degree of residual sugar, and this is true even of houses that are well known for making dry wines…such as Trimbach. This bottle has restored my interest in Alsace Pinot Gris, thanks to a genuinely dry finish, but one that follows an expressive bouquet and mid-palate flavors and texture that is quite generous. Notes of poached pears and ripe stone fruits are backed by subtle mineral notes.
91 Michael Franz Sep 6, 2016

Domaine Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Saering 2005 ($32, Maisons Marques and Domaines): This deliciously luscious Riesling has a mineral/petrol aroma, with

floral notes and a hint of melon and citrus. Round and floral, but also dry and balanced. A lovely wine that will stand up to aging. 91 Tina Caputo Mar 17, 2009

Domaine Trapet, Alsace (France) Riesling “R.Q.W.R.” 2018 ($27):

My first introduction to Trapet, years ago, was with their stunning Burgundies. Then I discovered they also make wines in Alsace. Unsurprisingly, given their finesse-filled Burgundies, their wines from Alsace, made from organic and biodynamically farmed grapes, show grace and elegant as well. The back label announces that it is Riesling from Riquewihr, which explains the mysterious R.Q.W.R. on the front label. It delivers a seamless balance of stones, floral elements, and fruit. Not piercingly dry, its roundness balances the mineral bitterness. It would be an excellent choice for sushi or spicy Asian fare.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2022

Domaine Weinbach, Alsace (France) Riesling "Cuvée Colette" 2017 ($45, Vineyard Brands):

The Domaine Weinbach Riesling is an attractive full yellow sunray color. The nose is as captivating as the shade, with notes of white blossoms, apples, lime, and lemon zest. The palate offers flavors similar to the aroma notes with the additions of peach skin and minerality. It provides vibrant acidity with a long, dry, and refreshing finish. The 2017 is lovely now but will only add layers of flavor in years to come.
91 Miranda Franco May 18, 2021

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Riesling “Les Princes Abbés" 2008 ($20, Maison Marques and Domaines): The grape variety may be German, but the interpretation is definitely

French. This wine has weight, yet it is quite elegant. It has floral, peach and pear aromas with hints of talc. In the mouth it is dry, round and zesty with layered peach and pear fruit to which age has added notes of honey and smoke and spice. The Princes Abbés is a tribute to the abbots of the Abbey of Murbach, which was established in 728 AD near the village where the Schlumberger winery is today. The Benedictine monks ran this abbey until the French Revolution and during their tenure made the wines of this region famous through Europe. 91 Rebecca Murphy Nov 13, 2012

Dopff & Irion, Alsace (France) Riesling 2010 ($18, Dreyfus, Ashby): This is a classic Alsace Riesling from an outstanding vintage. By “classic,” I mean that it is a genuinely dry wine that resists a recent tendency (and a lamentable one, in my view) toward leaving lots of residual sugar in Rieslings from Alsace. Although it is abundantly furnished with acidity, it is not overly austere even at this young age, showing taut aromas and flavors of ripe lemon and green apple. Subtle mineral notes in the finish lend added appeal, and this will become considerably more complex if you can lay it down for a couple of years. 91 Michael Franz Nov 13, 2012

Dopff au Moulin, Alsace (France) Riesling 2018 ($22, Winedom Selections):

This traditional Alsace Riesling has a distinct sweet edge without being cloying. Indeed, that light suggestion of sweetness is one of the reasons expertly made Rieslings from this French region have so many devoted fans. Enjoy it well chilled as an aperitif, and/or with typical Alsace specialties such as sausages. It also partners beautifully with many kinds of seafood, including most shellfish.
91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 16, 2022

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Altenburg de Bergheim 2008 ($60, Quintessential):

This house has been on the upswing in recent years, and 2008 was an excellent vintage that shows the boost phase of the ascent. The wine is now probably fully developed, but is at a wonderful stage at the moment, showing just a pleasant whiff of petrol on the nose, but with fruity and flowery scents as well. Rich and rounded but still structured by nice acidity, this is opulent enough to work beautifully with richer fish dishes or even slow-cooked pork.
91 Michael Franz Nov 1, 2016

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Altenberg 2005 ($50, Quintessential):

Although the Alsace Grand Cru appellation was approved in 1983, with an initial 25 sites, it has been a matter of continuing controversy. The number of Grand Cru vineyards has risen to 50, but some boundaries are still being disputed. Riesling is one of four varieties allowed in a Grand Cru and this Lorentz Altenberg Riesling is an example of the nobility of Alsace Riesling. Brilliant light gold color and a lovely citrus peel and light petrol nose give way to complex flavors, rich texture, layers of mature fruit, brisk acidity and a smooth finish at 13% alcohol. The price may be high but this is a complex Riesling to treasure. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 24, 2010

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée les Amours” 2020 ($16, Frederick Wildman):

Alsace, in northeastern France, is a great source for fine and quite affordable Pinot Blanc. Also known as Pinot Bianco in Italy and Weissburgunder in Germany, Pinot Blanc can be a delightful, easy-to-drink white wine. The Hugel Family winery was established in 1639 and is one of the best known of all Alsace estates. Their Cuvée les Amours Pinot Blanc is one of their best-selling labels. The 2020 Cuvée les Amours is a delicious, layered, elegant and dry rendition of the Pinot Blanc grape. The bouquet is forward with yellow plum, pear, citrus and tropical fruit scents interwoven with floral and spice tones. Lovely expressions of ripe pear, lemon and tropical fruit flavors unfold across the palate followed by subtle spices and a clean, dry finish. This is the definitive Alsace Pinot Blanc for many.
91 Wayne Belding Jan 17, 2023

Hugel et Fils, Alsace (France) Riesling 2009 ($24, Frederick Wildman):

This is a strong, hard wine. It smells of stone, steel and lime peel, with a hint of petrol. It's firm and steely on the palate as well, but not big and not overly potent (12% alcohol). The lime fruit is more upfront, and the finish is long. A food wine with backbone and freshness that will be welcome at most tables. It's tempting to see what it would age into, but this is an entry-level Riesling for Hugel so it's doubtful anyone will find out.
91 W. Blake Gray Feb 8, 2011

Josmeyer, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Mise du Printemps” 2013 ($19, Simon ‘N Cellars):

This is a scintillating white wine that has an almost imperceptible suggestion of fizz on the finish. Beautifully balanced, low in alcohol (12.2%), with suggestions of white peach and delicate white blossoms accompanied by grace notes of minerality, this Pinot Blanc is unusually expressive of its terroir (the grapes were Biodynamically grown on vineyard sites with granite soils on one side, limestone on the other).
91 Marguerite Thomas Feb 10, 2015

Leon Beyer, Alsace (France) Riesling "Cuvée des Comtes d'Euguisheim" 2000 ($52, Lauber Imports): Typical of Beyer's wines, this Riesling sings its varietal character loud and clear through its lemon zest aroma and flavor and its crisp acidity. It's completely dry, with mineral notes complementing the fruity character. It is beginning to show development in that its fruitiness is starting to give way to terroir notes. Drink now to 2016. 91 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Mar 7, 2006

Léon Beyer, Alsace (France) Riesling 2007 ($20, Aveniu Brands): The wines from the house of Léon Beyer are among the very best

made in Alsace, and yet they have never received the accolades or the commercial prominence that they deserve in the United States. They tend to be uncompromisingly dry but balanced and supremely classy, and are invariably terrific at the table, where they routinely outshine the big, blousy style that often earns more points from wine critics. All of these descriptors apply to this entry-level Riesling (that’s right--the Beyer Rieslings get better from this point), which shows fresh, driving fruit that recalls green apples with a backnote of ripe lemon and a very appealing mineral edge to the finish. Well suited to many foods, but perfect for simple preparations of freshwater fish. 91 Michael Franz Jun 15, 2010

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling "Tradition" 2021 ($18, Saranty Imports):

Aptly named Tradition, this stellar Riesling by Lucien Albrecht is a classic example of Riesling's fine qualities. Bright tart notes ranging from lime and nectarine to tart underripe pineapple and starfruit command the body of this wine while undertones of minerality, petroleum, and floral notes provide complexity. The wine’s acidity is bright and crisp, further highlighting the tart fruit notes. Riesling is Alsace’s most planted variety and the region's German influence shows in this traditionally-styled offering.
91 Vince Simmon Jan 23, 2024

Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace (France) Riesling Clos Rebberg 2006 ($50, Wilson Daniels): Soon to make its debut in the U.S., this strikingly aromatic wine made from biodynamically farmed grapes is also packed with bright, tangy yellow stone fruit and lemon chiffon flavors. It starts out rather delicate on the palate, then builds to a rich, yet dry and minerally crescendo. Cellar it for a decade. 91 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Marc Tempe, Alsace (France) Riesling Zellenberg 2008 ($32, Vintage '59 Imports): Tempe makes a range of very interesting wines that are quite distinctive in character. This Riesling shows bright fruit with notes of lemons and green apples, but also a richer fruit note recalling apricots. It is fairly rich, and yet the overall impression is one of clarity and drive rather than heaviness. Nicely balanced and very appealing. 91 Michael Franz Aug 16, 2011

Meyer-Fonné, Alsace (France) Riesling Réserve 2013 ($25): This is a fine example of a very welcome trend in Alsace toward rendering Rieslings in a dry, fresh style. The aromas show a bit of positive development with light floral notes, but the palate is flinty and mineral and almost steely. A very energetic wine with lots of linear thrust (as opposed to creamy breadth), this is a very appealing choice for freshwater fish dishes.
91 Michael Franz Nov 1, 2016

Mittnacht-Klack, Alsace (France) Riesling Clos St. Ulrich 2005 ($45, Dee-Vine Wines): I fell in love with nearly all of the white wines made Franck Mittnacht, a young-ish man of good humor and great enthusiasm. He makes 18 to 25 wines a year, some under screwcap, yet it was his Rieslings that grabbed me by the gills. The Clos St. Ulrich smells pleasantly of wet granite and is full-flavored, tasting of ripe green melon, mandarin orange and yellow stone fruit, with a slightly bitter pithiness for complexity. Not yet available in the USA at this guesstimated price, but worth remembering. 91 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

René Barth, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Vignoble de Bennwihr” 2014 ($18): The most delicate of all the wines recommended here, this is a gentle, even gentile Pinot Blanc. Drink it with lighter seafood or poultry dishes. 91 Paul Lukacs May 9, 2017

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling “Cuvee Frederic Emile” 2002 ($60, Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines): Trimbach has aged this wine for us in its cellars, before releasing it to

the market. Made mostly of old-vine fruit (average of 50 years old), it smells of acacia flower, wet stone and minerals, and tastes of lime juice and grapefruit, with flinty minerality and a long, mouthwatering finish. 91 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris "Reserve Personnelle" 2000 ($35, Diageo Chateau & Estates): This wine is so rich that it would seem to belie Trimbach's reputation as a producer dedicated to dry wine. And yet it is richness, not sweetness, that you taste. The wine has bracing acidity and ripe peach and peach-stone flavors that are fairly intense and carry long on the palate, but finish dry. A mid-term ager, enjoyable now to 2010. 91 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Mar 7, 2006

Willm, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Reserve 2016 ($15, Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.):

An irresistible white wine, full of charm and verve, this Pinot Blanc offers refreshing floral notes as well as hints of pear and apple. Enjoy it as an aperitif wine, or serve it with shrimp, turkey breast, simple chicken preparations, or vegetarian dishes.
91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 7, 2018

Achillée, Alsace (France) Riesling 2018 ($23, Terres Blances Wine Merchants ):

Achillée is the name for yarrow, a plant used in biodynamic farming. The owners of Achillée, the Dietrich family, have run an organically and biodynamically farmed vineyard since 1999 (notably, the family has farmed land in Alsace since 1600). Their Riesling is an intense yellow in appearance, dry yet luscious and bursting with scents of apricot fruit and accents of white flowers, lemon and lime rinds. The palate offers pear, Meyer lemon, exotic spices, and wet stones. It is structured and expansive with taut acidity and a long finish.
90 Miranda Franco May 4, 2021

Albert Mann, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2004 ($35, Weygandt-Metzler): Winemaker Jacky Barthelme finishes many of his wines, including some Grands Crus, with screwcaps, a trend that appears to be slow to catch on in Alsace. His Schlossberg Riesling has great richness, a botrytis aroma and about 10 grams of residual sweetness, yet the crackling acidity and ripe yellow stone fruit and tropical flavors balance out the sweetness. It's intense and focused. 90 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Bechtold, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Silberberg 2010 ($23, Rosenthal Wine Merchant, NY): Very nice mouthfeel, with some of the weight of juice, but not the heaviness of alcohol. With its pretty rosewater aroma, it's like drinking rose juice. It's nice to have a Gewurz that's not overpowering. 13% alcohol.
90 W. Blake Gray Jan 15, 2013

Domaine Jean-Luc Mader, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2014 ($16, Elite Wines): A fine value, full of crisp autumn fruit flavors, and ending with a long, satisfying finish. All of this winery’s current offerings are very good and very attractively priced. 90 Paul Lukacs May 9, 2017

Domaine Loew, Alsace (France) Riesling “Muschelkalck” 2012 ($20): I have virtually no experience with this producer’s wines, despite having spent a lot of time in Alsace, but I’ll have an eye peeled from now on. This shows some lovely floral topnotes, followed by taut fruit and a finish that recalls wet stones and oyster shells. Fresh and fun, but with some complexity too.
90 Michael Franz Nov 1, 2016

Domaine Marcel Deiss, Alsace (France) Riesling 2011 ($24, Angel's Share Wine Imports): This lovely Riesling from Jean-Michel Deiss shows excellent purity of fruit, just the faintest bit of sweetness, freshening acidity, and a mineral backnote that lends interest to the persistent finish. Very well balanced, this is the sort of wine that almost anyone will like, and that will work with almost any dish appropriate for white wine.
90 Michael Franz Jul 9, 2013

Domaine Weinbach, Alsace (France) Sylvaner Reserve 2009 ($20, Vineyard Brands):

Made with a grape rarely found in Alsace anymore, this intriguing wine tastes of green apples, with a distinctive overlay of smoky spice. Quite long on the palate, its crisp acidity keeps it in fine balance, though I suspect that it’s not a wine that will benefit from aging. In the near-term, though, it will be delicious when paired with delicate foods that themselves have a smoky or spicy edge (smoked trout, for example, or many kinds of sushi). 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 12, 2011

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim 2006 ($40, The Sorting Table): People either love or hate Gewurztraminer because of its overt flamboyant profile and an unpredictability regarding its level of sweetness. This is one Gewurztraminer that is hard not to love. Explosive as expected, flavors of spiced pears and lychee nuts pour forth. Great acidity keeps it all together preventing cloying sweetness. Spicy Asian fare, watch out--you've met your match. 90 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc "Les Princes Abbes" 2011 ($20, Maison Marques & Domaines):

A fresh, dry wine that plays nice with just about anything. It tastes of bright citrus fruit with some lime peel, and a hint of bitterness on the finish that works well with dinner. The mouthfeel has plenty of freshness and just a little bit of sandiness, giving some grip that also is food-friendly. A very fine dinner wine. 12.5% alcohol.
90 W. Blake Gray May 7, 2013

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris “Les Princes Abbés” 2009 ($20, Maison Marques and Domaines): Scrumptious pear, peach and citrus aromas are haunted by chalky mineral notes. In the mouth the fruit is concentrated and the wine is unctuous and full fleshed. There is a bit of residual sugar, but rather than tasting sweet, it adds power and intensity. Certainly the acidity ensures that the finish is clean. This is the perfect wine to stand up to the richness of a pumpkin soup or the heat of a Thai curry. 90 Rebecca Murphy Nov 13, 2012

Emile Beyer, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc "Tradition" 2021 ($22, Michael Corso Selections):

Alsace is a great source for fine and affordable Pinot Blanc. Also known as Pinot Bianco in Italy and Weissburgunder in Germany, Pinot Blanc is a delightful, easy-to-drink white wine. The Beyer family has grown grapes around the village of Eguisheim for over two centuries. Their long experience, combined with modern winemaking equipment and techniques yields wines like this delicious Pinot Blanc. Grown on clay and limestone soils near Eguisheim, this is an elegant and dry rendition of the grape comprised mostly of Auxerrois – a subvariety of Pinot Blanc. The bouquet of the 2021 Emile Beyer Pinot Blanc is forward with peach, lemon, pear and yellow plum fruit scents interwoven with floral and spice tones. The layers of ripe pear, citrus and peach fruit flavors unfold across the palate followed by subtle spices and a clean, dry finish.
90 Wayne Belding Nov 7, 2023

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Reserve 2010 ($20, Quintessential Wines): In terms of reputation, Blanc is the Pinot family’s poor cousin, nowhere as fashionable as Noir, and not as substantial as Gris. But especially in the hands of good producers in Alsace, it can offer surprisingly delicious delights. Autumn fruit, mineral-tinged secondary flavors, and a long finish make it an excellent food partner, as well as a very satisfying aperitif sipper. This youthful rendition is an excellent example. It may not be an especially fashionable wine, but it sure is fun to drink. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 7, 2012

Helfrich, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Steinklotz Grand Cru 2012 ($25, Advantage International):

Stone mineral, rose petal and white pepper in an off dry package make this a unique white wine offering with a lot of pairing possibilities. Though it's acid profile is on the soft side, there's enough citric zing to keep all of the elements in the mix all the way to the end, where a light tropical note joins the pepper and spice. Medium hot Asian cuisine, duck confit, fried fish, medium to strong cheeses -- you might have to try a few pairings to choose a favorite.
90 Rich Cook Dec 2, 2014

Helfrich, Alsace (France) Riesling 2013 ($17, Advantage International): It's all about the oranges in this crisp, dry Riesling. Navel orange and tangerine, with delicate orange blossom and stone minerality shine through a soft entry followed by bracing acidity and a long lip smacking finish that keeps you returning to the glass again and again. Sushi seems a great fit here.
90 Rich Cook Dec 2, 2014

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris “Classic” 2008 ($22, Frederick Wildman):

The proprietary name “Classic” is accurate in many ways. For one, this is a classic example of the sort of well-made, nicely balanced, food friendly wine Hugel has been producing for many years--actually, many centuries as the Hugel family have been growing wine in Alsace for 12 generations, since 1639. And this is a classic Pinot Gris, with strong aromatic notes of pears plus touches of lemon peel and vanilla. With its medium-rich body and refreshing citrusy finish “Classic” Hugel is a highly recommendable wine. 90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 7, 2012

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée des Amours” 2010 ($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, Etienne’s enthusiastic son, loves the 2010 vintage because it gave them great ripeness without losing acidity. This Pinot Blanc, one of Hugel’s best ever, reflects that assessment. It has unusual depth for Pinot Blanc, and invigorating acidity keeps in fresh and lively. It’s an excellent summertime aperitif type wine, but has enough stuffing to hold up to simply grilled fish or sushi.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013

Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling 2012 ($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, this house’s brand manager for the United States, summed up this Riesling, “It may not be perfect, but it is how we want it.” I would disagree slightly--it is perfect for the price. Clean, dry and vibrant, this Riesling is made to order for sushi or highly flavored Asian cuisine because, along with its riveting acidity, it has plenty of depth and body. Some may find it too dry and bracing to sip as an aperitif--although it is refreshing--but no one will complain when you open it at dinner.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013

Hugel, Alsace (France) Gewürztraminer 2012 ($29, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd):

Hugel is one of Alsace’s best and most consistent producers. Their wines always accurately reflect the varietal and the origin of the grapes. This one, a blend from a variety of vineyards, is a classic example of Alsace Gewürztraminer. Aromatic, spicy and completely dry, it finishes with an attractive slight bitterness and a firm edge from its great acidity. With so many Alsace renditions of Gewürztraminer showing a touch of sweetness in the finish, it’s a pleasure to taste--and drink--Hugel’s. Here’s another good choice for spicy Asian fare.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris “Tradition” 2005 ($25, Wildman): Hugel's house style emphasizes fleshy fruit and lush flavors. While this classy Pinot Gris offers that, it also delivers spicy secondary notes, a jolt of acidity, and a compellingly complex finish. There's a hint of sugar, but not so much as to prove distracting. 90 Paul Lukacs Sep 23, 2008

Hugel & Fils, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer "Hugel" 2010 ($30, Frederick Wildman & Sons):

A lean style of Gewurz, light rose petal aromas and tangy lichee fruit, with coppery notes. Great freshness and minerality keep it going down easy. It didn't immediately stand out of a Gewurztraminer tasting, but we ended up drinking more of this bottle than any other. 14% alcohol.
90 W. Blake Gray Jan 15, 2013

Jean Ginglinger, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée George” 2011 ($17, Wineberry America): Good Pinot Blanc isn’t easy to find, but once you find it, you’ve got what may be the world’s most versatile wine for pairing with foods. This fine rendition shows barely any residual sugar (which isn’t always the case in Alsace) and displays fine acidic structure behind the fruit, which recalls pears and baked apples. Delicious.
90 Michael Franz Jul 9, 2013

Jean Pierre Kappler, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2020 ($23):

Pinot Blanc, the quiet member of the Pinot family, may not be as fashionable as its siblings but happy to say it still seems to get equal attention in Alsace. Here at home, the temptation to see it as an alternative to Chardonnay misses the point that when well-made, Pinot Blanc is far more food friendly. And thankfully, the Kappler family offers this exemplary, versatile 2020. In both its aromas and flavors, it offers lovely baked apple emphasis with a subtle citrus edge. On the palate, it is medium bodied, smooth and slightly oily in texture. The finish is balanced with good acidity and length. Not flashy, but a solid white wine.
90 Norm Roby Dec 20, 2022

Josmeyer, Alsace (France) Riesling "Le Kottabe" 2004 ($27, Paterno): Domaine Josmeyer consistently turns out wines of immaculate purity that are dry but never austere and always superb with food. This elegant Riesling fits that description perfectly, with crisp apple and peach fruit that is engagingly ripe but not distractingly so. Mineral notes and a nice floral undertone lend complexity, and a steely spine of acidity keeps the flavors on track through the long, intricate finish. 90 Michael Franz Feb 14, 2006

Léon Beyer, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2007 ($18, Aveniu Brands): I adore excellent Pinot Blanc, but have little use for many bottlings from Alsace, most of which are formless and vaguely sweaty due to excessive residual sugar or an overdose of “Pinot Auxerrois” (a.k.a. Auxerrois Blanc, a distinct variety that can be included in bottlings labeled as Pinot Blanc under Alsace wine law). By contrast, this is a fascinating wine that is substantial on the palate but utterly taut in style, with driving acidity running through the fruit and driving the finish. The fruit notes recall pears and baked apples, with aromatic accents of nuts and wild honey. First-rate Pinot Blanc is one of the world’s unknown wonders as a food wine, and you’ll be hard pressed to find a dish that is appropriate for pairing with white wine that isn’t enhanced by this bottle. Hats off to Marc Beyer, the iconoclastic force behind this excellent house. 90 Michael Franz Jun 15, 2010

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Reserve 2016 ($22, Foley Family Artisan Imports & Spirits):

Gewürztraminer, a wine that consumers either love or hate, can be challenging to order because its level of sweetness varies. Fortunately, Albrecht has placed a sweetness scale used by many Riesling producers on the back label to guide consumers. Though they list this Gewürztraminer as medium sweet, I would classify it as a touch sweet because of its riveting acidity and spice. Floral and captivating -- I obvious fall into the “love the wine” category -- it’s a great choice for spiced Asian fare or with cheese.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2018

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Balthazar” 2020 ($18, Foley Family Artisan Imports):

Alsace is a great source for fine and affordable Pinot Blanc. Known as Pinot Bianco in Italy and Weissburgunder in Germany, Pinot Blanc is a delightful, easy-to-drink white wine. The Albrecht family has grown grapes around the village of Orschwihr for over four centuries. Their long experience, combined with modern winemaking equipment and techniques yields wines like this delicious Pinot Blanc. This is an elegant and dry rendition of the grape. The bouquet is forward with citrus, pear and yellow plum fruit scents interwoven with floral and spice tones. The layers of ripe pear, citrus and plum fruit flavors unfold across the palate followed by subtle spices and a clean, dry finish. This is a versatile wine that can pair well with many dishes, from soups to rich fish and chicken recipes.
90 Wayne Belding Feb 14, 2023

Mader, Alsace (France) Riesling 2008 ($17, Elite Wine Imports): An impressive and reasonably priced example of Alsatian Riesling, this wine offers apple, citrus and peach fruit flavors, supported by echoes of stone or slate (and a hint of “petrol”), so it ends up impressing because of its delicious complexity. Dry but at the same time open and accessible, it should provide satisfying drinking for at least five more years. 90 Paul Lukacs Jan 19, 2010

Mader, Alsace (France) Riesling 2004 ($14, Elite Wines):

Stylish, beautifully balanced, and remarkably complex for the money, this excellent wine is convincingly dry in style and yet--while light in body--is not austere but rather quite generous in flavor and depth. Notes of green apples and citrus fruit are fresh and appealing, with nice floral aromatic accents and interesting mineral notes in the finish. I've tasted this three times, and have been more impressed on each successive occasion. A great aperitif, but equally promising as a partner for light finfish or Asian noodle dishes. 90 Michael Franz Mar 27, 2007

Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Kritt “Les Charmes” 2005 ($20, Wilson Daniels): Though the grape often produces wine that is rather one-dimensional, this is a phenomenally complex Pinot Blanc. It was clearly crafted from very ripe fruit, as it shows lots of body and even a bit of smoky, honeyed character seemingly drawn from a bit of botrytis. Fruit notes of pears and baked apples are delicious and very nicely integrated with acidity in the finish.
90 Michael Franz Mar 11, 2008

Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Kritt 2005 ($32, Wilson Daniels): I hesitate to mention this wine because of its limited availability in the United States (200 cases were imported). Fans of whites from the Alsace region of France will rejoice, however, if they are lucky enough to stumble across this biodynamically farmed Gewurztraminer from one of France's most meticulous winemakers. There is a hint of sweetness, though buttressed with firm acidity, as well as the trademark aroma of rose petal and ripe tropical fruits. 90 Robert Whitley Jun 26, 2007

Pierre Sparr, Alsace (France) White Blend "One" 2010 ($13, Wilson Daniels):

This blend of 40% Muscat, 40% Riesling and 20% Pinot Gris is a delightful value and shows what can be done with an increasingly rare dry version of Muscat. Pretty floral aromas combine with bright lime and white peach fruit, freshness and minerality. An excellent choice with shrimp, especially with a mildly spicy sauce. Despite the price, the grapes were all hand-harvested, and the wine spent 6 months on the lees in stainless steel tanks. While some Alsatian wines will keep for years, this is meant to drink now. A few years ago this wine was insipid and sweet, but after being sold to a local wine grape co-op, Pierre Sparr has stepped up its game. 12% alcohol.
90 W. Blake Gray Apr 2, 2013

Rolly Gassmann, Alsace (France) Riesling 2009 ($30, Boutique Wine Collection): A lovely off dry Riesling that shows classic Alsace minerality, dried stonefruit, honey, bread dough and flowers on the nose and in the mouth, with a long finish that brings a sweet peach note forward. This is the softer side of Riesling -- pair it with fresh fruit or mild cheeses.
90 Rich Cook May 6, 2014

Sipp Mack, Alsace (France) Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2002 ($19): A dry style of Riesling, Sipp Mack's Vieilles Vignes conveys minerality throughout its considerable length. With plenty of power, it will hold up nicely with spicy Asian fare. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

Sparr, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Reserve 2004 ($20): Beautifully balanced, this wine is fresh and clean on the palate, showing aromas of citrus, white peach and melon and excellent persistence on the palate. More suited for rich shellfish, such as lobster and crab, but quite refreshing, too, as an aperitif. 90 Robert Whitley Oct 11, 2005

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling 2007 ($20, Diageo Chateau & Estates):

Trimbach has always been one of my favorite producers in Alsace but I have had the impression in recent vintages that the basic Trimbach Riesling was not as fine as I remember. This 2007 re-affirms my faith in Trimbach. It is very, very dry yet almost full-bodied; it has high acid yet it has weight in your mouth. The flavors are mainly in the earthy/mineral vein, but include citrus; these flavors are concentrated, both in the mouth and in the wine’s long finish. This wine is still young (in fact, I prefer it now to a year ago) but it foretells the richness to come with a few years of age. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 11, 2011

Willm, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Réserve 2011 ($13, Monsieur Touton Selection): Very tactile, with fresh fruit flavors and sensuous textures gliding effortlessly across the palate (ripe pear wrapped in silk stocking perhaps). It’s a dry wine, with good acidity counterbalancing honeyed sweetness, and it is astonishingly delicious with certain foods such as roast salmon.
90 Marguerite Thomas May 7, 2013

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris 2005 ($24, The Sorting Table): Pinot Gris (Grigio) is the latest flavor-of-the-month in white wines. Not a classic variety, Pinot Gris can be a delightfully flavorful wine. This Zind-Humbrecht version has layers of tropical and ripe melon fruit. The flavors are fruity and honeyed with a hint of caramel. It's richly textured with good structure and length. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2005 ($24, The Sorting Table): Alsace has long been considered the benchmark for dry Gewurztraminer, but this one goes against type with a noticeable sweet impression and 14% alcohol. That aside, the wine has attractive, spicy perfume, traces of lychee and rose petals, great texture, dry fruity finish, and not even a trace of bitterness. It's a lovely wine. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim 2004 ($42, The Sorting Table):

The aromatics of this wine include sweet spice, citrus zest, with a touch of jasmine. Mineral-limestone notes dominate the flavors, with citrus accents and tart pineapple undertones. Dry and concentrated, this wine has great structure and length. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Herrenweg 2005 ($46, The Sorting Table): The nose is clearly defined with elements of exotic spice, jasmine

tea, and ripe fruit, while the richly textured flavors are packed with fruit, leaning to lichee. All of these elements are nicely balanced by crisp acidity that follows through a lengthy finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2004 ($70, The Sorting Table): This aromatic wine has a lovely burnished gold color, forward ripe fruit, and exotic spice nose with an enticing mineral-citrus back note. The flavors are rich, structured, and packed with fruit, leading to a long, dry finish with lingering fresh fruit. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2004 ($70, The Sorting Table): I found this wine to be high in the minerality that Humbrecht says imbues his wines, but there is also a pleasant honied accent. The highly tactile flavors are rich, layered with fruit, and nicely balanced, with hints of ripe pineapple and honey. It is richly fruited with excellent length and balance. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Hengst 2005 ($94, The Sorting Table): Riper and richer than the 2004 Hengst, this Gewurz shows a forward, spicy nose with jasmine back notes. The medium flavors are honied and rich, with spice and black tea notes. More moderate in alcohol than the comparable bottling from 2004 (14.1%), this Hengst finishes sweet and juicy. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris “Les Princes Abbés” 2007 ($15, Maison Marques and Domaines):

This is a lovely rendition of Pinot Gris in the trademark Alsace style, which is centered on richness and sweetness. It is notably aromatic and very flavorful, with notes recalling honey and ripe peaches, along with faintly musky and smoky nuances. The finish is also quite flavorful, and though it is quite significantly sweet, is nevertheless balanced and not cloying.

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Grand Cru Altenberg 2005 ($50, Quintessential): Altenberg is a classified Grand Cru vineyard in Bergheim owned by Gustave Lorentz. Known for producing fine wines since the 13th Century, the Altenberg vines are between 30 and 50 years old, a factor that yields a wine with a medium-deep golden color, layered dried fruit, honey and waxy aromas and flavors, 14.6% alcohol and a long mature finish. Exotic and rich, this bottle-aged Pinot Gris would marry nicely with Asian dishes, veined cheeses and complex fruit desserts. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 24, 2010

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2008 ($23, Quintessential): Mention dry Riesling and Alsace comes to mind. In recent years, though, many Alsace Rieslings have moved from dry to off-dry, but not this refined Riesling from Gustave Lorentz. The color is a pale gold and the aromatics show citrus and floral notes with a trace of vanilla. It is dry and packed with fruit, crisp acidity and 12% alcohol. Benefiting from an ideal growing season, this is a good Riesling for enjoying now or cellaring for a few more years. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 24, 2010

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Réserve 2010 ($14, Quintessential Wines): In Alsace, a wine labeled Pinot Blanc can be a blend of that grape and Auxerrois. The latter is often used to lend fatness to the wine. Lorentz’s, a blend of Auxerrois (90%) and Pinot Blanc, has the telltale richness of Auxerrois while maintaining great green apple-like freshness. It could easily be enjoyed as an aperitif, but has enough guts to match simple seafood, too. 89 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012

Heimberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Réserve Particulière” 2009 ($12, The Country Vintner): Pinot Blanc is a Rodney Dangerfield grape, getting little or no respect from most consumers. I can’t figure out why. Good examples, particularly those from Alsace, Germany, and northern Italy, can be delicious. They’re also almost always fine values. This Alsatian, for example, displays fresh apple fruit flavors with an underlying hint of chalky minerality. It finishes long and lean, never seems heavy, and so proves extremely easy to enjoy. And it only costs $12. What’s not to like, or to respect? 89 Paul Lukacs Apr 19, 2011

Helfrich, Alsace (France) Riesling 2008 ($15, Underdog Wine Merchants): For an Alsace Riesling, this wine is a lightweight. But it’s a flavorful, crisp white that I am happy to drink. The aromas suggest grapefruit, lime and floral notes, pronounced and vivid. It’s a dry wine, crisp with high acidity, and it has decent concentration of clean, fresh citrus-fruit flavors. You could accuse it of being too lean or too light, but it is essentially a very good dry Riesling. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Dec 7, 2010

Hugel, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2007 ($24, Frederick Wildman): Many Gewurztraminers taste sweet and unbalanced; but even when the wines are harmonious, this varietal can be opulent to the point of distraction. Not this one. While it does display the tell-tale rose petal perfume and lychee-tinged fruit flavor that makes the grape so distinctive, it does so in an extremely restrained (and refined) fashion. “Subtle” and “Gewurztraminer” are not words that usually go together. They do so here. 89 Paul Lukacs Dec 8, 2009

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc "Cuvee les Amours" 2005 ($16, Frederick Wildman):

This wine satisfies, even delights, year after year, and with dish after dish. Wonderfully versatile at the supper table, it has an uncanny ability to hold its own even with full-flavored dishes, while at the same time being able to complement delicate fare. The 2005 rendition offers pear and apple fruit flavors, with a touch of minerality in the finish and hints of straw and dried herbs in the bouquet. It's delicious, and if past vintages are any indication, will drink well for up to five years. 89 Paul Lukacs Nov 20, 2007

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée les Amours” 2014 ($14, Frederick Wildman): Always reliable and widely available, Hugel’s Cuvee des Amours is an excellent introduction to Pinot Blanc. It’s full of apple and pear fruit flavors. 89 Paul Lukacs May 9, 2017

Hugel & Fils, Alsace (France) Riesling 2008 ($20, Frederick Wildman): Hugel, a family run firm established in picturesque town of Riquewihr in 1639, is one of Alsace’s best producers. This, their “basic” Riesling, is made from grapes grown in the surrounding area, which is a part of Alsace well known for the varietal. It’s classic Alsace Riesling: Dry, but not austere, with good body and weight. Not the lacy floral style of Riesling, it delivers subtle earthy notes buttressed by citrus notes. It would be an excellent choice to cut through the spice and boisterously flavored Asian food. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 15, 2011

Jean Biecher, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2018 ($14, Vin Colorado Imports):

Alsace is a great source for fine and affordable Pinot Blanc. Also known as Pinot Bianco in Italy and Weissburgunder in Germany, Pinot Blanc is be a delightful, easy-to-drink white wine. The Biecher family has grown grapes around the village of St. Hippolyte for over two centuries. Their long experience, combined with modern winemaking equipment and techniques yields wines like this delicious Pinot Blanc. This is an elegant and dry rendition of the grape. The bouquet is forward with lemon, pear and yellow plum fruit scents interwoven with floral and spice tones. The layers of ripe pear, citrus and plum fruit flavors unfold across the palate followed by subtle spices and a clean, dry finish.
89 Wayne Belding May 11, 2021

Josmeyer, Alsace (France) “Fleur de Lotus” NV ($22, Simon ‘N Cellars):

Delicately floral, the charming Fleur de Lotus (blended from Auxerrois, Gewurztraminer and Riesling) conveys a perception of sweetness but is in fact light and dry. This wine was designed with Asian food in mind, and in fact, thanks to its perfumy lushness combined with a bright, refreshing finish it would be excellent with modern Chinese, Thai and some Japanese dishes.
89 Marguerite Thomas Feb 10, 2015

Josmeyer, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc "Mise du Printemps" 2004 ($27, Paterno Wines): Pinot Blanc represents the neutral baseline of the world's white wines in terms of aromas and flavors, but this Pinot Blanc is actually an exciting wine. On the nose it expresses broad, minerally notes as well as gentle floral character. In the mouth, it's medium-bodied and dry with mouth-watering acidity, a slightly oily texture and a medium intensity of flavor. It's not a big wine but its richness of texture gives it weight and substance. This is a wine to drink when you want to be refreshed without sacrificing quality and character. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2006

Leon Beyer, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2020 ($25, Banville Wine Merchants):

Some wines immediately ask the question, what delicacy would a chef pair with this? This Pinot Blanc did just that for me. Its floral, yellow apple, pear, and wax notes are supported by bright acidity making it both interesting and food friendly. Owner Marc Beyer follows a long family lineage of winemaking, and the Léon Beyer winery is one of the oldest Alsatian family-owned estates, founded in 1580. If you are into throwing dinner parties or picking interesting wines for a higher-end restaurant, don’t skip this wine. It will elevate most white-sauced dishes and could even be fun with a soup.
89 Vince Simmon Apr 25, 2023

Mader, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2005 ($14, Elite Wines): From its delicate aroma to the way it bursts across the palate in an

explosion of flavor, to the satisfying, juicy finish, this is just about everything you want from a Pinot Blanc. 89 Marguerite Thomas Mar 13, 2007

Marc Kteydenweiss, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Kritt "Les Charmes" 2004 ($19, Wilson Daniels): Pinot Blanc is frequently posited as an alternative to Chardonnay, and for many, particularly those who appreciate the depth and complexity of good Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc usually disappoints. In the hands of a gifted winemaker, however, this grape variety can flourish. Kreydenweiss has crafted a straightforward, crisp Pinot Blanc that delivers good weight on the palate, a bit of the oily texture that Chardonnay fans love, yet with a hint of minerality and a firm structure that imbues this wine with the life that is so often missing from flabby examples of the genre. 89 Robert Whitley Dec 12, 2006

Pierre Sparr, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Reserve 2004 ($22, W.J. Deutsch): A creamy potion dominated by ripe pear notes, this is a wine guaranteed to please as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to many pasta dishes (cheese and spinach ravioli, for example), seafood (try it with fried calamari), or a simple grilled or roast chicken. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jul 24, 2007

René Barth, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2005 ($12, Monarchia/Matt): Good luck finding another Pinot Blanc this complex and satisfying for

$12, and good luck finding another wine that is as versatile and food-friendly as Pinot Blanc. With lovely aromas and flavors that center on ripe apple notes, this shows plenty of juicy, primary fruit. Yet subtle accents of smoke, nuts and minerals lend real complexity, making this both juicy and nuanced. 89 Michael Franz Feb 13, 2007

Sipp, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2009 ($12, Classic Wines): Never an “important” wine, Pinot Blanc ranges from insipid very satisfying. Put Sipp’s into the very satisfying--and bargain-priced--category. Unlike many Pinot Blanc on the market, Sipp’s has real character, with a firm edge and lively austerity. Steamed clams, anyone? 89 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling "Cuvée R" 2008 ($18, Diageo Chateau & Estates): Trimbach is one of the greatest producers in Alsace. Their range of Riesling--from their basic one that’s a blend from many vineyards to their sensational single vineyard Clos Ste Hune--is superb. The Cuvee R represents the best batches from their basic bottling and lies between it and their one labeled Frederic Emile, which comes their grand cru vineyards adjacent to the winery. Dry and clean, the Cuvee R has moderate body and delivers an enticing hint of minerality. The finish is dry and uplifting. It’s a great match for oysters, but has the muscle to hold up to more intense seafood as well. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011

Wolfberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2017 ($18, Kysela):

No need to over think this sweet and dreamy white wine from Alsace, just breathe in the delicate floral aromas and sip the racy nectar lying in your glass. Pure pleasure! It’s no wonder that Wolfberger has got it right as the estate has been producing wine in Alsace for the past 115 years.
89 Marguerite Thomas Apr 2, 2019

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling 2005 ($24, The Sorting Table): In recent years, Alsace Riesling has been getting sweeter; still drier than most German Rieslings, but noticeably sweeter. This entry-level Riesling drinks and finishes dry, but gives the impression of residual sweetness. The key is impeccable balance. It's spicy and honied, supported by crisp acidity and a long finish with just a faint note of petrol. 89 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) 'Zind' 2006 ($19, The Sorting Table): Zind-Humbrecht is straying from French tradition by making wine from Chardonnay in Alsace. A blend of one-third Auxerrois and two-thirds Chardonnay from the famed Clos Windsbuhl vineyard, this appealing wine carries no appellation—it’s labeled solely as a “vin de table”—because Chardonnay is not an allowed variety in Alsace. But he may be on to something. It’s certainly a far cry from a typical Chardonnay. None of the four experienced tasters—myself included—who sampled this wine could identify the varietal composition. It’s aromatic and fleshy, but certainly not oaky, with bright acidity and enlivening spice. Very fresh and bone dry, it works well as an aperitif because it has sufficient body and with seafood at the table because the acidity balances the food. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010

Albert Boxler, Alsace (France) Riesling 2006 ($28, Robert Chadderdon Selections):

The domaine, founded in 1672, is now in the hands of 30-something Jean Boxler and his wife, Sylvie. Jean says his Rieslings need three to five years of age, minimum, to begin to show their personalities, so his 2006 'normale' Riesling is still a baby. Dry (4 grams of sugar), floral and keenly balanced, it now shows pure, succulent pear, lime and subtle herb notes, and represents masterful winemaking from a cold, wet vintage.

Domaine Ostertag, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Barriques” 2008 ($20, Kermit Lynch): The word “barriques” (small, 225-liter French oak barrels) on a label of Pinot Blanc, a fairly delicate grape, is bound to dissuade many from tasting this wine. It certainly put me off and I had every intention of not liking the wine. But André Ostertag insisted I try it, noting that the wine stays in barrels, only 5% of which are new, for only 6 or 7 months. What a surprise! There’s the barest hint of oak that adds fullness without undermining the underlying vinous character. The wine remains fresh and lively, perfect for summertime consumption. I just wish he’d label it something else. How about “Cuvée Speciale?” 88 Michael Apstein Jun 29, 2010

Domaine Paul Blanck, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2011 ($16, Michael Skurnik): Blanck’s 2011 Pinot Blanc is a wonderfully versatile wine. The barest hint of sweetness, which comes across as a pleasing roundness, makes it a perfect stand-alone aperitif. A paradoxical bitter grapefruit rind nuance in the finish and excellent balancing acidity adds backbone and verve, making it a great choice to accompany spicy food. And it’s widely available. What’s not to like?
88 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2013

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Les Princes Abbés” 2010 ($15, Maison Marques and Domaines): What to do with those Thanksgiving leftovers? Well at least there’s no question about what to drink. This refreshing wine has delightful apple, citrus aromas and flavors with a dash of smoke. It’s full-bodied, yet not heavy, and bone dry. It certainly has breeding with a portion of the grapes from the Grand Cru vineyards of Saering & Spiege. 88 Rebecca Murphy Nov 13, 2012

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Riesling "Princes Abbes" 2003 ($17, Maisons Marques & Domaines): This Pinot Blanc is richer and more complex than most (with the exception of the intense Josmeyer Pinot Blancs) but is an excellent aperitif due to the absence of oak influence. The warm vintage contributed mightily to the ripeness of the fruit. The 2004, due out soon, is even better. 88 Robert Whitley Oct 11, 2005

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris “Les Princes Abbés” 2011 ($24, Maisons Marques and Domaines): This ripe, yet not sweet, Pinot Gris delivers subtle peach and pear notes buttressed by good acidity. It’s depth and texture tells you it’s definitely in the Pinot Gris, as opposed to the lighter, more flowery Pinot Grigio, style. The combination makes it an excellent choice for full flavored Asian cuisine as well as a stand-alone aperitif.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2013

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) 2009 ($20, Quintessential): The appealing aromatic spice of Gewurztraminer tickles your nostrils and palate the instant you sample this wine. Paradoxically, a bare hint of sweetness actually amplifies the wine’s spiciness. Not overdone, it would be fine with roast pork or chili-laden fare. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 30, 2010

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2009 ($20, Quintessential): The appealing aromatic spice of Gewurztraminer tickles your nostrils and palate the instant you sample this wine. Paradoxically, a bare hint of sweetness actually amplifies the wine’s spiciness. Not overdone, it would be fine with roast pork or chili-laden fare. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 23, 2010

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Reserve 2008 ($23): The Alsatians have a long history of producing flavor-packed Pinot Gris (known as Tokay d’Alsace until 2007) and this one is no exception. Good growing conditions in 2008 yielded a wine with a brilliant medium gold color, ripe nectarine aromas and flavors with an intriguing smoky note. Finished at 14% alcohol this Pinot Gris is the antithesis of an Italian Pinot Grigio. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 24, 2010

Helfrich, Alsace (France) Riesling 2008 ($15, Underdog Wine Merchants): A solid, dry Alsatian Riesling, with a steely undertone coming from firm acidity that gives it impressive balance. Though not as complex as the best renditions of this varietal from this northern French region, it also is very reasonably priced. 88 Paul Lukacs Oct 26, 2010

Helfrich, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2008 ($15, Underdog Wine Merchants): A relatively dry Alsatian Gewurz, the '08 from Helfrich is a medium-bodied, floral, aromatic white that will be versatile as both an aperitif and a classic match with sushi, spicy Asian cuisine, and all manner of fresh shellfish dishes. It shows a honey/beeswax nose, spicy notes, aromas of ripe pear and peach and a clean, dry finish. 88 Robert Whitley Jan 4, 2011

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Les Amours” 2006 ($16, Frederick Wildman): Hugel is one of the undisputed leaders in Alsace so it’s not surprising that their Pinot Blanc--a wine that can be innocuous--is so full of character. Delicate notes of white flowers grab your attention, but it’s the bracing character of this unoaked wine that keeps it. It’s an excellent choice for oysters, simply done seafood, or sushi. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2010

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris "Classic" 2017 ($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):

Hugel, one of the brightest lights in Alsace, excels with their Rieslings, late harvest wines, and just about everything. This “classic” Pinot Gris delivers a touch of sweetness balanced by acidity that leaves the mouth clean and fresh. It’s a great choice as an aperitif-style wine or with spiced foods because the sweetness will offset the fire.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 14, 2021

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée les Amours” 2004 ($15, Wildman):

Consistently fine, vintage after vintage, this supple white wine always delights with its pear and apple fruit flavors and slight mineral-tinged finish. Very versatile at the dinner table, it is a wine to order with confidence from restaurant lists. The 2004 rendition is just another in a long line of successful offerings. 88 Paul Lukacs Apr 3, 2007

Kuentz-Bas, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2006 ($17, Kermit Lynch): With so many innocuous Pinot Blanc on the market, it is a joy to find one with character and richness. Hints of peaches are immediately apparent and a subtle spiciness and excellent acidity adds interest and verve. It's another good choice for Thanksgiving, both as a welcoming aperitif and a wine for the table. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008

Kuentz-Bas, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2008 ($16, Kermit Lynch): Pinot Blanc from Kuentz-Bas shows individuality with its slightly creamier profile. A clean citrus finish brings it all into focus. It can do double duty as a before dinner drink and an accompaniment to simple seafood. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012

Marc Tempé, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Zellenberg 2005 ($25, Vintage '59 Imports): Although this strikes me as being too sweet for its own good, and quite likely

to prove disappointing to the great majority of consumers who presume they will be getting an essentially dry drink when buying a Pinot Blanc, there is no denying the sheer deliciousness of this wine. It is overtly sweet rather than merely off-dry, with luscious fruit recalling apple pie filling, along with a notable tropical fruit note. The flavors are very deep and quite lasting, and though there's not enough acidity to make this seem like a classic table wine, there is certainly enough to keep the finish from seeming cloying. As long as you know what you'll be getting, this is a wine to buy and enjoy with lightly spiced foods. 88 Michael Franz Jun 24, 2008

Pierre Sparr, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2007 ($25, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): In my experience, Alsatian Pinot Blanc proves to be a remarkably versatile wine at the dinner table, pairing well with a wide range of different foods, and often tasting better (meaning more nuanced and compelling) when drunk with a meal as opposed to as an aperitif. This wine shows the potential to offer just that sort of versatility, as it displays ripe apple-like fruit flavors undergirded by plenty of acidity. It is, however, somewhat sweeter than many other Alsatian Pinot Blancs. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 24, 2009

Pierre Sparr, Alsace (France) Riesling 2011 ($14, Wilson Daniels): Dry and fairly simple at first taste, this wine seduces with nice minerality and bright lime fruit, making it easy to quaff more than you expect. 12% alcohol.
88 W. Blake Gray Apr 2, 2013

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2005 ($16, Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines): With a golden yellow color and floral aromas of lychee and spice, this wine is rich without being heavy or sweet. It's floral and dry, with a pretty rosewater flavor. 88 Tina Caputo Nov 25, 2008

Very dry and reserved for an Alsace Riesling, this wine nevertheless proves very satisfying thanks to its purity and ample minerality. The fruit notes recall green apples, with a lightly floral topnote and very pleasant mineral notes that ride through the finish, which is freshened by acidity that lends zest without any sourness. Subtle and well suited to almost any delicate preparation of fish.

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling 2007 ($17, Diageo Chateau & Estates): There’s no better Alsace producer than Trimbach. Founded in 1626 and still family owned, Trimbach makes Rieslings that remain among the benchmarks for Alsace. Based in Ribeauvillé, an especially good area for Riesling, they produce this wine from a combination of their grapes and ones purchased from growers in the surrounding villages. Bracingly dry, it delivers an appealing hint of earthiness that complements the green apple flavors. Not a flowery German Riesling, this one has moderate weight and good density and cleansing acidity. It’s equally at home cutting through the spice of Szechwan cuisine or sushi. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Heimbourg 2005 ($50, The Sorting Table): This select Riesling from the Heimbourg vineyard in Turkheim is more floral and honeyed than the 2004 Herrenweg Riesling. Textured flavors include floral notes, tropical fruit, and traces of minerals. The alcohol is a moderate 12.5%, and the wine finishes dry with good length. 88 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Les Princes Abbés” 2007 ($15, Maison Marques and Domaines): Pinot Blanc from most places--including Alsace--is quite subtle stuff, and extremely useful in my view, though subtle to a fault in the view of some others. In any case, this rendition shows delicate aromas and flavors of honey, baked apple, and pear, with just a hint of citrus around the edges. Medium-bodied, it is rounded on the palate but freshened by a touch of acidity in the finish, and will pair up very well with almost anything appropriate for white wine, showing the versatility that is Pinot Blanc’s primary virtue. 87 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2009

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Riesling “Les Princes Abbes” 2006 ($20, Maisons Marques and Domaines):

Severine Schlumberger oversees her family's 330 contiguous acres of vines planted on steep terraces in Guebwiller. Severine's four draft horses, led by her beloved Etoile, work the severe slopes where tractors cannot go. The Princes Abbes Riesling is a blend of several sites on the estate, and is a great introduction to dry Alsace Riesling -- lean and limey in its youth, with an underlying minerality.

Helfrich, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris 2008 ($15, Underdog Wine Merchants):

These simple vin d'Alsace wines from Helfrich tend to be straightforward, pure and cleanly made, making them a tremendous value in the under-$20 category. This '08 Pinot Gris offers a honeyed nose, good richness on the palate, aromas of baked apple, persimmon and brioche, and refreshing acidity. Serve it with pork dishes, foie gras, ripe cheeses or shellfish. 87 Robert Whitley Jan 4, 2011

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc "Cuvee Les Amours" 2005 ($15, Frederick Wildman): Looking for a delicate but flavorful white to serve as an aperitif for the holidays, a wine that will keep your guests coming back for more and not hut you in the wallet too much? Hugel's entry level Pinot Blanc 'Cuvee Les Amours' is one of my leading candidates for a house white that is good enough to impress guests who fancy themselves wine savvy. It is well balanced and delivers the aroma profile of apple and pear that is typical of Pinot Blanc from Alsace. 87 Robert Whitley Oct 10, 2006

Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée les Amours” 2005 ($17, Wildman): Although this is one of the least expensive wines in Hugel's portfolio, it is often one of the best and most versatile. Aromas and flavors of pears and white melons offer enough expressiveness at every stage of the sensory experience, yet they are quite subtle, and the wine will pair up nicely with virtually any dish that is appropriate for white wine. This is a big claim, but I stand by it. 87 Michael Franz Jan 15, 2008

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006 ($16, Pasternak Wine Imports): Albrecht has fashioned a lovely dry Riesling that finds a mid-ground between the enamel-cleansing character of some and the soupy sweetness of others. Plump apple flavors allow you to enjoy a glass as an aperitif, but the hallmark acidity of Riesling means it will hold up nicely through a meal. Nicely priced, it's an easy wine to recommend. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008

Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling “Cuvee Henri” 2005 ($27, Pasternak Wine Imports): Lucien Albrecht has a large presence in the United States, based largely on its sparkling Cremant d'Alsace. Yet its Rieslings are not to be overlooked, as they are classically dry, floral and low in alcohol. Cuvee Henri has a pretty, minerally nose, and crisp, clean Granny Smith apple and citrus flavors backed by firm acidity. 87 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Sipp Mack, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2004 ($13): Clean and brisk, with more intensity than many Pinot Blancs, Sipp Mack's is a great value. You could drink it as an aperitif and then carry it to the table for a first course. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling 2006 ($17, Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines): Trimbach's classic 'yellow label' Riesling is well-made, inexpensive and widely available. Its steely acidity, green apple and white peach fruit and subtle minerality make it a great buy. 86 Linda Murphy Aug 19, 2008

Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Hengst Grand Cru 2004 ($70, The Sorting Table): The Sorting Table): This wine from a famous vineyard in Wintzenheim tasted distinctly different from the other Gewurztraminers in the tasting, with a floral and spicy nose, and dry, textured flavors, though it finished a little flat and bitter, with eyebrow-raising alcohol of 16.1%. 85 Gerald D. Boyd May 22, 2007

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace AOC (France) Pinot Gris Reserve 2018 ($25, Quintessential Wines):

The fragrant 2018 Lorentz Reserve is one of the finest examples of Pinot Gris I’ve tasted in some time. This vintage combines richness with elegance in a white wine impressive for its complexity and length. On the palate it shows notes of dried pear and apple, a subtle spice note and an alluring touch of honeysuckle.
95 Robert Whitley May 12, 2020

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace AOC (France) Riesling Grand Cru Kanzlerberg 2017 ($70, Quintessential Wines):

I haven’t tasted this wine for at least five vintages, which makes me very sad about the releases that I missed. It offers wonderfully complex aromas, with subtle floral topnotes and lovely lemon crème scents, followed by richer fruit flavors recalling tangerine above all, and then excellent minerality riding right alongside the fruit in the finish. The acidity is abundant but perfectly integrated with the fruit, and in overall terms, every aromatic and flavor note seems perfectly proportioned in this impressively harmonious wine. Truly, a thing of beauty.
94 Michael Franz Aug 11, 2020

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace AOC (France) Riesling Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim 2016 ($65, Quintessential Wines):

I opened this wine and tasted it alongside this house’s 2017 Grand Cru Kanzlerberg (as well as three other Lorentz Rieslings) for a long and very pleasant evening, and then again over several subsequent days while they were refrigerated but unsealed. Although I did not admire the overtly sweet Burg” 2017 bottling, all of the others were exceptionally fine in their individuated ways. The Battle of the Grands Crus ended up in a dead heat, though the wines are utterly different. This release from the beautiful and formidable Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard is very rich and quite dramatic, with lots of palate weight as well as very expressive aromatics with a pleasant undertone of botrytis that fits nicely with the ripe profile of the fruit. This is certainly the fleshpot of the two, with the 2017 Kanzlerberg showing a much more cool, reserved, mineral character. The fact that this house could turn out two beauties with such different profiles is impressive.
94 Michael Franz Aug 11, 2020

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace AOC (France) Pinot Gris 2018 ($20, Quintessential Wines):

Value alert: Gustave Lorentz's Pinot Gris is one of the finest $20 white wines you will ever find. Perfectly balanced, combining richness and freshness, it shows luscious notes of dried apricot and peach, a hint of melon and impressive length on the palate. Back up the car, open the trunk and load it by the case!
93 Robert Whitley Aug 25, 2020

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace AOC (France) Riesling Reserve 2019 ($25, Quintessential Wines):

This is very complex and classy for a straight Alsace AOC Riesling, showing good density but excellent freshness and balance. The fruit is showy and ripe, but the acidity provides very good linear energy. This combination makes for an exceptionally versatile wine that’s easily up to the challenge of roasted chicken or pork, but fresh enough to enjoy with delicate fin fish dishes.
92 Michael Franz Aug 11, 2020

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace AOC (France) Riesling “Evidence” Vieilles Vignes 2018 ($25, Quintessential Wines):

This organic, old vines “Evidence” bottling is leaner and racier than the standard-issue “Réserve” bottling from this house, with a touch more aromatic complexity. I tasted the two side by side over the course of several hours, but couldn’t ultimately give one or the other a higher score, as the greater richness of the “Réserve” is so well balanced that it provides every bit as much pleasure if not quite the same level of “fine-ness.” If the two gave me a bit of trouble as a critic, they’ll give you two excellent options as a consumer. Very impressive.
92 Michael Franz Aug 11, 2020

Hugel, Alsace AOC (France) Pinot Blanc "Cuvée les Amours" 2018 ($16, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):

Alsace, in northeastern France is perhaps best known for Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris wines. It is a great source as well for fine and quite affordable Pinot Blanc. Also known as Pinot Bianco in Italy and Weissburgunder in Germany, Pinot Blanc can be a delightful, easy-to-drink white wine. The Hugel Family has been producing wines in Alsace for 370 years and their Cuvée les Amours Pinot Blanc is one of their best-known labels. Alsacien winegrowers consider a grape known locally as Auxerrois as a separate variety, even though it is officially counted as a Pinot Blanc. The 2018 Cuvée les Amours is 50% Auxerrois and 50% Pinot Blanc. It is a delicious layered, elegant and dry rendition of the grape. The bouquet is forward with lemon, yellow plum, pear and tropical fruit scents interwoven with floral and spice tones. The layers of ripe pear, citrus and tropical fruit flavors unfold across the palate followed by subtle spices and a clean, dry finish. The Auxerrois adds a rich texture to the wine as well. This is a benchmark Alsace Pinot Blanc that is well worth adding to your vinous repertoire.
91 Wayne Belding Sep 8, 2020

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace Grand Cru (France) Gewurztraminer Kessler 2007 ($34, Maison Marques and Domaines): Rich and intensely aromatic and flamboyant at every turn, this is definitely not a restrained Gewurztraminer. Floral aromas are very expressive, with backing from lychee and ripe pear fruit and lots of pleasant spiciness that helps keep the floral sweetness of the wine from becoming overbearing. Low but adequate in acidity, this should be enjoyed as an aperitif, as a tableside partner for notably spicy foods, or an after dinner sipper with simple fresh fruit. 91 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2009

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace Grand Cru (France) Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim 2005 ($50, Quintessential): The Grand Cru classification of vineyards occurred in Alsace roughly 50 years later than it did in Burgundy. But similar to Burgundy, Grand Cru in Alsace doesn’t automatically mean the wine will be great. The producer is still the most important element in determining quality, and Lorentz is a great producer. Not flowery in the German style, this dry Riesling has weight and substance. A lush texture, nuances of peach and a long spiced finish add to its allure. It’s not a wine to sip before dinner, but it would be terrific with holiday turkey. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 23, 2010

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace Grand Cru (Alsace, France) Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim 2005 ($50, Quintessential): The Grand Cru classification of vineyards occurred in Alsace roughly 50 years later than it did in Burgundy. But similar to Burgundy, Grand Cru in Alsace doesn’t automatically mean the wine will be great. The producer is still the most important element in determining quality. And Lorentz is a great producer. Not flowery in the German style, this dry Riesling has weight and substance. A lush texture, nuances of peach and a long spiced finish add to its allure. It’s not a wine to sip before dinner, but it would be terrific with holiday turkey. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 30, 2010

Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace Grand Cru (Alsace, France) Pinot Gris Spiegel 2007 ($28, Maison Marques and Domaines): A very expressive rendition of a grape that is often very soft-spoken,

this starts off with very appealing and interesting notes of wild honey, white flowers, and poached pears. However, when moving from the first touch of the wine on the tongue to the midpalate and finish, the prominent notes are very ripe baked peaches that seem to have burst from an overstuffed pie, along with a very notable spiciness that is a great counterpart to the sweetness of the fruit. There’s enough acidity to keep the weight and sweetness of the wine balanced in the finish, but beware that this is a significantly sweet wine. 90 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2009

J.B. Adam, Alsace Grand Cru (Alsace, France) Riesling Wineck-Schlossberg 2004 ($35, Chapin Cellars/Billington): This complex, delicious wine is now at a lovely point in its development, and though you might raise an eyebrow at a current release white from 2004, you should trust me on this. The fruit shows a core of green apple with a sidenote of stone fruit and a prominent, pleasing mineral streak in the aromas and finish of the flavors. Although dry, the fruit remains fresh enough to suggest just a hint of sweetness that works very well with the wine's floral aromas. 90 Michael Franz May 19, 2009

Domaine Weinbach, Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg (France) “Sous la Foret” 2020 ($79, Vineyard Brands):

There are at least 2 legal designations for blended white wines from Alsace; Edelzwicker (meaning noble-blending, grapes can be co-fermented, no requirement of naming the varietals or vintage) and Gentil (minimum 50% "noble" grapes including Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat or Gewurztraminer; the rest can be Chasselas, Pinot Blanc or Sylvaner; vinified separately). Domaine Weinbach has been producing compelling wines from typical Alsatian varieties for longer than I have been drinking wine. Here Winebach seems to aim for a higher-end product than the typical blends by blending two noble varieties grown in the Grand Cru Schlosserg vineyard, Pinot Gris and Riesling. Schlossberg is known for producing finely-textured and floral wines, grown on granitic soils with more than 3/4 of the 80 hectare vineyard planted to Riesling. Youth is evident in the pale green/yellow color and slightly closed aromas when initially poured. With some aeration, aromas of Granny Smith apple, crushed green herbs as mint and chives and some flinty/chalk emerge. The palate offers driving acidity and a broad texture as well as a dry finish. The final impression is one of richness and freshness in equal harmonious parts. Bring out this delicious bottle for your best, French-inspired, pan roasted poultry or shellfish dishes.
94 Andrew Holod Feb 20, 2024

Hugel, Alsace Vendange Tardive (France) Gewürztraminer 2007 ($40, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Hugel is the giant among producers of Vendange Tardive (literally, late harvest) wine. The best ones, such as this 2007 (sold in a 375 ml bottle), impress with their concentration, elegance and acidity rather than their sweetness. The sweetness is apparent, but is never the focus because of the brilliant balance of, in this case, a perfect storm of acidity, bitterness and sweetness. Those sensations come together and wine explodes on the palate. Yet it never overwhelms. It bombards you with waves of dried fruit flavors, spice, and a ying and yang of sweetness and bitterness that seems never ending. Try it with cheese, especially strong ones, or as dessert.
98 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013

Jean-Paul Brun / Domaine des Terres Dorees, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) “L’Ancien” 2016 ($19, Louis/Dressner Selections):

Forget all your preconceptions about Beaujolais being light, quaffable, and frequently forgettable. This wine is instead dark, medium-bodied, and full of earthy character. Its secret? One can’t know for certain, but the vineyard is extremely rocky, so the vines have to struggle to get nutrients, their roots extending far beneath the surface. Whether that “terroir” provides the wine with its distinctive character may be a matter for debate, but there can be no doubting the appeal of that character. And at less than $20 a bottle, the wine is a great value.
92 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2018

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais AOC (France) 2019 ($12, Quintessential Wines):

The Beaujolais AOC designation is the broadest in the region and encompasses those vineyards that can’t legally be declared Villages or Cru. Hence the low price despite the fact that in some vintages, such as 2019, the wines can be stellar. The Duboeuf sports a deep garnet color and on the palate the wine is floral with excellent depth and, typical of the AOC, slightly harder tannins than you might find in the Villages or Cru wines.
87 Robert Whitley Oct 13, 2020

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($14):

Somewhere out there lurks a bunch of Grinches that have been trying for years to steal Beaujolais Nouveau and block the third Thursday in November from their calendars. They are called “serious wine people” and they try to warn others that this is “not the real Beaujolais” and is “not something to get excited over.” (I wonder if they get excited about zero-alcohol wine, which isn’t wine at all?) So, lighten up and enjoy a glass and a little hoopla! Georges is an old hand at this, and the 2023 vintage checks all two of the nouveau boxes – it is very fruity with almost yeasty fermentation flavors, and it has a crisp finish to temper all that fruitiness.
86 Roger Morris Nov 21, 2023

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau AOP (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($10, Quintessential Wines):

The 2019 Beaujolais Nouveau from Duboeuf, the so-called “first wine of the harvest,” is everything Nouveau was meant to be: grapey, easy, simple and straightforward. And it’s all of that, a soft, supple fruit bomb that won’t tax either the palate or the wallet. Nouveau tends toward the floral, and this one does just that. Awesome spring and summer picnic wine, especially when served slightly chilled on a warm day.
87 Robert Whitley Feb 25, 2020

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($12):

Dark color with a broad, expansive palate and supple tannins. Richer and more structured than a typical Beaujolais Villages. A mouth-filling, satisfying red that will pair nicely with fall and winter roasts and stews.
88 Robert Whitley Dec 6, 2016

Joseph Drouhin, Beaujolais-Villages (France) 2020 ($15, Dreyfus Ashby):

Maison Joseph Drouhin is perhaps best known as a Burgundy negociant with a large portfolio of wines from throughout the Côte d’Or. They also produce a range of fine Beaujolais wines. Their 2020 Beaujolais-Villages is drawn from vineyards on granitic soils in several communes. It shows the classic Beaujolais style. It has aromas of red cherry, raspberry strawberry, lilacs, smoke and baking spice. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of raspberry and cherry fruits underscored by elements of earth, smoke and spice. Perfect for enjoying on its own, it can pair well with simply grilled sausages, roast chicken or game birds.
91 Wayne Belding Jul 26, 2022

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Made from 100% Gamay grapes, this light bodied classic Beaujolais red wine has mouth-filling ripe cherry and berry flavors. Gamay typically produces fresh, uncomplicated fruit driven aromas and flavors. The Louis Jadot company has been producing red and white Burgundy wines since 1859. With approximately 140 acres of vines in some of Burgundy’s most prestigious sites, Jadot is now one of the largest estates of Burgundy’s Cote d’Or, and also sells a large amount of wine made from purchased grapes.
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 20, 2021

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($14, Quintessential Wines):

When it’s good, it’s one of the greatest wine values in the world. And the 2018 Beaujolais Villages from Georges Duboeuf is outstanding. This vintage has a distinctly floral nose, excellent palate weight and inviting red and blue fruit aromas. The tannins are supple and soft, and this Beaujolais is ready to enjoy now. For the best experience, serve slightly chilled.
90 Robert Whitley Sep 1, 2020

Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Fresh tasting and light bodied, this nimble red wine from Louis Jadot is undemanding. Crisp and dry, it’s a uniquely easygoing red wine that pairs well with simple foods such as chicken breasts and simple pasta preparations.
89 Marguerite Thomas May 5, 2020

Louis Tête, Beaujolais-Villages (France) 2017 ($14):

Beaujolais-Villages is a wine that comes from any one or a combination of 38 specified villages, and the category is thought to have the potential for more interesting wines compared to those labeled Beaujolais. This one is juicy, with good weight and concentration, yet not heavy or overly fruity. Mild tannins provide needed structure, but are not so prevalent as to be intrusive even after chilling. This is a great alternative to any of the thousands of insipid rosés on the market for summer enjoyment. An hour in the fridge before you pull the cork does the trick. It would be perfect for salad Niçoise with rare tuna.
88 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau AOC (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($15, Quintessential Wines):

It is that time of year, but in case you missed it, the first wine of the 2019 vintage, Beaujolais Nouveau, was released last week on November 21. Franck Duboeuf, son of founder Georges, was in Texas to present the winery’s three wines: A Nouveau Rosé, inaugurated in 2018, Beaujolais Nouveau and Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau. I was most impressed by this one for its intensity and structure. Duboeuf explained that the Villages vineyards were less affected by weather events than vineyards in other areas and the difference shows in the wines. Yes, it is a young wine, literally hot of the presses, but its cheerful, juicy black cherry, raspberry fruit is supported by zesty acidity and firm tannins and all of these elements are nicely integrated into a polished wine. It will make a welcome addition to your Thanksgiving table.
88 Rebecca Murphy Nov 26, 2019

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais-Villages-Nouveau AOP (France) 2020 ($15, Quintessential Wines):

If you are at all interested in the winemaking process and are looking for an example of what carbonic maceration and cold fermentation temperatures do to a wine, look no further than the traditional icon of the new harvest -- Nouveau Beaujolais. The most noticeable byproduct when it comes to the above noted processes is isoamyl acetate, which creates the aroma and flavor of ripe bananas. You may already be thinking that bananas aren't what you're looking for in a red wine, but you'd be missing out on a historic part of wine culture in the world by passing this up, not to mention a unique and tasty glass. This bottle tames the banana with cherry, blueberry and spice notes without removing it entirely, preserving its charms or perhaps creating them. It's a tightrope walk to get the characteristic to speak with a pleasant voice, and it's certainly accomplished here.
90 Rich Cook Nov 10, 2020

Alex Foillard, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2021 ($47, Kermit Lynch):

First, the backstory. At a Paris bistro, I ordered a glass of 2021 Côte de Brouilly, from Thivin, one of the best producers of that cru. Out came a glass of red wine, which was alluring, mineral-y and dense, and every bit as good as I had expected. When the waiter eventually succumbed to my request to see the bottle, it turned out that the wine he poured me was actually a 2021 Brouilly from Alex Foillard. Now, the Foillard name is legendary in Beaujolais because Jean Foillard was one of the leaders, who, decades ago, showed just how exciting and stunning wines from Beaujolais, even Beaujolais-Villages, could be. Well, Alex, Jean’s son has set out on his own and judging from this wine, his talents are no less grand than his father’s. Wines from Brouilly, the largest of the Beaujolais crus, can often be dilute and just fruity. Not this one, which is packed and firm, reflecting the region’s granite. Its sleek and glossy texture enrobe layers of dark mineral-like flavors intermingled with black fruits. It is my new benchmark for Brouilly.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2023

Domaine Perroud, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) L’Enfer des Balloquets 2020 ($23):

The wines from Brouilly, the largest of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, typically provide more interest that a straight Beaujolais-Villages. This one supports that generalization. Fine acidity and a hint of tannic structure balances this ripe and generous Brouilly. This succulent and juicy wine will provide immediate enjoyment with anything from burgers to skirt steak.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2023

Château Thivin, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Reverdon” 2017 ($24, Kermit Lynch):

Château Thivin owns about 18 acres of this 65-acre east-facing vineyard in Brouilly, the largest and most southern of Beaujolais’ ten cru. Lighter and fruitier than their Côte de Brouilly, it still conveys underlying minerality because of the rose-granite soil in the vineyard. Bright and filled with red fruit flavors, it has none of the firmness of their Côte de Brouilly.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018

Georges Duboeuf, Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2015 ($19): Intense red-fruited palate with modest tannins and a long, persistent finish. This is a gutsy Beaujolais cru that can stand up to strong flavors and savory meat dishes. Drink over the next two to four years.
90 Robert Whitley Dec 6, 2016

Jean-Claude Debeaune, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Domaine de Grand Croix” 2020 ($25, Saranty Imports):

Brouilly is Beaujolais’ largest Cru, covering 1,300 hectares in an area surrounding Mont Brouilly. Despite the pandemic, 2020 was an excellent year for Gamay in Brouilly and Beaujolais writ large. Jean-Claude Debeaune's Domaine de Grand Croix is a nice example with concentrated fruit and balanced earthiness expected from this region. The red and black fruit flavors tend toward jammy without being too sweet or distracting. A nice undertone of leather and flint brings the wine together. Not only will this wine pair with a wide range of winter foods — butternut soup, please — the fruit’s ripeness will help newer wine drinkers venture into a drier wine style.
90 Vince Simmon Dec 5, 2023

Château de La Chaize, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2017 ($19, Taub Family Selections):

Brouilly, the largest of the ten Beaujolais cru, often disappoints. Thankfully, the 2017 from Château de La Chaize, one of the top producers of Brouilly, does not. It has good concentration, zippy acidity that keeps it fresh and lively, and lots of juicy fruitiness. Mild tannins mean this mid-weight wine would be just fine right now. It’s widely available, so if, at the last minute, you need something for the Thanksgiving table, this is it.
88 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2020

Joseph Drouhin, Brouilly AOC (Beaujolais, France) Domaine Des Hospices de Belleville 2014 ($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Part of a new set of Beaujolais wines for Drouhin, this comes from a partnership formed in 2014 with Hospices de Belleville, and it's a delicious glass brimming with raspberry and spice, with a touch of pepper coming forward in the blossoming finish. An herb and spice smothered roast chicken dish will make a perfect pairing.
90 Rich Cook May 17, 2016

Georges Duboeuf, Chateau de Julienas, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015 ($20, Quintessential):

This cru Beaujolais from the exceptional 2015 vintage is meaty and full-bodied, with layers of ripe blueberry and blackberry and a floral back note. It shows impressive body and texture from ample tannin, but the palate remains smooth and supple. Drink now or hold for another year or two 91 Robert Whitley Nov 7, 2017

Georges Duboeuf, Chateau de Saint-Amour (Beaujolais, France) 2015 ($22): This Saint-Amour is among the most elegant from the cru, with exceptional intensity of color and flavor and a touch of minerality. Serve it as an aperitif or with Mediterranean tapas.
90 Robert Whitley Dec 13, 2016

Georges Duboeuf, Chateau des Capitans, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) 2015 ($22, Quintessential):

Big, rich and spicy, this is among the most muscular and powerful Beaujolais you are likely to find. Excellent potential for aging up to ten years. That said, a delicious drink even at this youthful stage. Serve with roasted fowl or any dish that is sauced with earthy mushrooms.
94 Robert Whitley Dec 13, 2016

Domaine des Bruyeres, Chenas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2020 ($22, Peter Weygandt Selection):

Chénas, the smallest of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, typically produces dark wines, like this one, that combine minerality and fruitiness. This Chénas from Peter Weygandt, always a reliable name on a back label, displays a charming beefiness balanced by fine, not hard, tannins. The “not-just-fruit” component makes this Chénas stand out. Enjoyable now, this is a Beaujolais that will develop more complexity with age and continue to wow you.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2023

Piron & Lameloise, Chénas (Beaujolais, France) “Quartz” 2016 ($23):

The Lameloise family, whose name is synonymous with fine dining because of their Michelin 3-star restaurant in nearby Chagny, owns the vineyard in Chénas, the smallest of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, while Dominique Piron makes the wines. Floral and elegant, it’s a graceful wine that dances on the palate. Its charming juiciness reminds you it’s Beaujolais, but it has the Burgundian sensibility of flavor without weight. Beautiful now.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2019

Laura Lardy, Chénas (Beaujolais, France) “La Fayarde” 2022 ($30):

Chénas, the smallest of the 10 Crus (named villages) of the Beaujolais region, is known for producing robust wines. Laura Lardy is one of Beaujolais’ top producers. Put the two together and you get this deeply rich wine with a balancing tarriness and uplifting freshness. A big boy, to be sure, but its suave texture and beautifully framed tannins make it a joy to drink now with hearty fare.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2024

Château de Raousset, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) "Bel-Air" 2022 ($29, Jeanne-Marie de Champs):

Though Chiroubles, one of the ten Crus (named villages) of Beaujolais borders Fleurie, the wines are vastly different, which is what makes drinking wines from the Beaujolais Crus so fascinating. Château de Raousset, one of the region’s top producers, makes both. This beauty, from the lieu-dit of Bel-Air conveys rich red fruit yet is not a particularly fruity wine. It is a masterful paradox. Pure and crystalline, its firmness balances the fleshiness and reminds you of the granitic soil. A delectable hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal. It’s a delight now.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024

Frédéric Berne, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, France) Les Terrasses 2015 ($20):

Wines from Chiroubles, another one of the ten cru of Beaujolais, are typically fruitier and less firm than those from Morgon. Berne’s 2015 Chiroubles from Les Terrasses, one of the top spots in that village, is exuberant without being over the top. Bright lip smacking acidity imparts energy and keeps it balanced. Long and graceful, this is my quintessential “roast chicken” wine. Frédéric Berne is a name to remember.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2016

Georges Duboeuf, Chiroubles (Burgundy, France) Domaine des Pontheaux 2015 ($20):

Wonderful floral note, with hints of raspberry and an elegant mouthfeel. This cru is one of the most refined and delicate of the 10 Beaujolais crus. Serve it with tapas, zesty salads or a savory quiche.
92 Robert Whitley Dec 6, 2016

Domaine de la Grosse Pierre, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, France) Gamay 2019 ($19, Weygandt-Metzler):

Chiroubles generally strikes a delicate style among the cru wines of Beaujolais, and that make it delightful in warm weather. The aromas and flavors suggest fresh red cherry with floral top notes and a bit of spiciness. Structurally, the wine is alive with crisp acidity, a moderate amount of edgy tannin, and long length. Together with the well-concentrated fruit, the liveliness of the structure makes for a fresh, complete wine. This Chiroubles is rather ethereal for Gamay (aromatic, lifted) and yet it maintains Gamay’s earthbound grip compared to Pinot Noir.
91 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 27, 2021

Georges Duboeuf, Clos des Quatre Vents, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015 ($22, Quintessential):

One of the most elegant cru Beaujolais is Fleurie, and the Clos des Quatre Vents epitomizes that characteristic. Refined, delicate and yet packed with flavor, this vintage is a stunning example of the beauty of Fleurie from this property. On the palate this wine personifies the mantra “flavor without weight” that is a marker for high quality red Burgundy and Beaujolais.
94 Robert Whitley Nov 7, 2017

Domaine Ruet, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2017 ($23, Schatzi Wines):

I recently tasted six Beaujolais from this producer, one made without added sulfur, from three different vintages, 2016, 2017 and 2018. They were stunning across the board and demonstrated the enormous talent at the domaine. They have just under 3 acres on the slopes of Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus of Beaujolais. The soil of this small mountain that emerges from the surrounding Brouilly is a distinctive blue stone, which growers there insist imparts a firmness to the wines. Ruet’s 2017 Côte de Brouilly is stunning, with a firm, but not hard, backbone. Luscious black fruit flavors balance the seeming austerity lending an exciting ying-yang to the wine. It will change your image of Beaujolais.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2019

Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2017 ($28, Kermit Lynch):

Château Thivin is THE producer Côte de Brouilly, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais, which sits on a small ancient volcanic cone. The Geoffray family purchased the estate, which had been in existence since the 12th century, in 1877. Leaders in the appellation, they were the first to bottle the wines of Côte de Brouilly rather than sell them in bulk to négociants as was the practice in the 1930s. The wines from the Côte de Brouilly are very different -- firmer and far less fruity -- from those of the larger surrounding cru, Brouilly. This wine comes from seven plots spread over the hillside. The soil -- blue stone rich with iron and copper -- explains the wine’s firmness and mineral-like quality. The focus here is not on fruitiness, but rather on minerality. Not opulent, it conveys an austerity without really being austere. The tannins are firm, not hard or aggressive. A hint of bitterness in the finish reminds you this is serious wine, best enjoyed at the table. In my experience, the Thivin wines develop marvelously with a decade of age, so it’s worth keeping some in the cellar.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018

Chateau Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Zaccharie” 2018 ($40, Kermit Lynch):

This 100 percent Gamay from the oldest domaine in Côte de Brouilly is powerful and packed with blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, with hints of violets, cedar, and smoke. It is medium-bodied with ample tannins and elevated by a bright acid backbone. It speaks far more of the terroir than varietal Gamay fruit. Drink now.
92 Miranda Franco Jan 12, 2021

Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2020 ($31, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Château Thivin is a benchmark by which Beaujolais wines are measured. The Geoffray family has owned this classic property for over a century and Claude Geoffray maintains the tradition of meticulous vine growing and winemaking. His Côte de Brouilly vineyards rest on well-exposed, steep slopes and are drawn from 50+ year old vines. The 2020 Château Thivin shows the emblematic Beaujolais style. It has vibrant aromas of strawberry, red cherry, plum, violets and cinnamon spice. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of strawberry and cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, earth and spice. Delicious on its own, it is also a versatile wine to pair with a wide range of foods. It will be a fine choice for a Thanksgiving feast or any roasted poultry. It’s also a good match for most anything off the grill.
92 Wayne Belding Nov 9, 2021

Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015 ($28):

The wines from Côte de Brouilly, one of top-tier of the ten cru of Beaujolais, are not to be confused with those from Brouilly, another cru, but whose wines have less consistent quality. Although Château Thivin, one of the region’s best producers, makes a range of wines from Côte de Brouilly depending on the position of the vines on the slope, this one is a blend from several sites. In a word, it’s marvelous. Stoney and firm, without being hard, it delivers bright red fruit flavors and has beautiful balance without a trace of over-ripeness. Great acidity keeps it fresh and lively.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018

Domaine Rochette, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2015 ($17, Wines of France – Alain Junguenet Selection):

The Crus of Beaujolais remain among the finest values in the wine world. Combining luscious fruit expression with impressive depth and complexity, the ten Cru villages can offer exemplary wines. The Rochette family has vineyard holdings in four of the Crus and they maintain a tradition of meticulous vinegrowing and winemaking. The Domaine Rochette Côte de Brouilly vineyards rest on granite and schist soils on the slopes of Mont Brouilly. The 2015 Rochette Côte de Brouilly is a beautiful example of the Beaujolais style. It has luscious and forward aromas of raspberry, red cherry, plum, violets and allspice. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of raspberry and cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, earth and spice. It’s a gulpable red wine that is delicious on its own as well as a fine choice for grilled foods, fried chicken or salmon.
92 Wayne Belding Jan 10, 2017

Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2013 ($25, Kermit Lynch):

Château Thivin is a benchmark by which Beaujolais wines are measured. The Geoffray family has owned this classic property for over a century and Claude Geoffray maintains the tradition of meticulous vinegrowing and winemaking. His Côte de Brouilly vineyards rest on granitic soils and are drawn from 50+ year old vines. The 2013 Château Thivin shows the emblematic Beaujolais style. It has vibrant aromas of strawberry, red cherry, plum, violets and cinnamon spice. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of strawberry and cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, earth and spice. Delicious on its own, it is also a fine choice for grilled foods, fried chicken or salmon.
90 Wayne Belding Sep 8, 2015

Jean-Paul Brun, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Gamay "Terres Dorées" 2017 ($22, Louis/Dressner Selectionss):

Jean-Paul Brun’s wines are benchmarks by which other Beaujolais wines are measured. The Geoffray family has owned this classic property for over a century and Claude Geoffray maintains the tradition of meticulous vinegrowing and winemaking. His Côte de Brouilly vineyards rest on granitic soils and are drawn from 40 to 55 year old vines. The 2017 Terres Dorées bottling shows the emblematic Brun Beaujolais style. It has vibrant aromas of pure raspberry, strawberry, red cherry, violets and cinnamon spice. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of raspberry, strawberry and cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, earth and spice. Delicious on its own, it is also a fine choice for grilled foods, roast chicken or just your favorite pizza.
90 Wayne Belding Nov 19, 2019

Stéphane Aviron, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Vieilles Vignes 2013 ($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.):

If your tastes run to firmer rather than floral Beaujolais, turn to Aviron’s 2013 Côte de Brouilly. Also made from old vine fruit, it’s stonier -- you can almost taste the granite soil -- than his Fleurie, but equally attractive. He makes attractive Beaujolais…serious stuff. Don’t miss them.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Louis Tête, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Chante-Loup 2018 ($15):

Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus, or named villages of Beaujolais, is really a small mountain that emerges from Brouilly, another of the named villages. It has many lieux-dits (place names) on its slope. More and more, Beaujolais producers are identifying specific sites within the cru because they believe the wines are distinctive and reflect the site, just as in the rest of Burgundy. In Louis Tête’s version, lovely ripeness, emblematic of the 2018 vintage, balances the firmness that characterizes the wines from the Côte de Brouilly. Firm, without being hard, it delivers the energy and upbeat personality of the top wines from Beaujolais. It’s another good choice for summer grilling.
88 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2019

Domaine du Riaz, Cote-de-Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2016 ($20, Quintessential Wines):

Wines from the Cote-de-Brouilly are prized for their complexity and the 2016 from Domaine du Riaz doesn’t disappoint. Showing a floral nose mixed with racy red fruits and hints of leather and wood spice, this vintage is bright and forward and fresh on the palate though a bit long in the tooth for a Beaujolais.
89 Robert Whitley Oct 8, 2019

Georges Duboeuf, Cote-de-Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Domaine du Riaz 2015 ($20): Lighter and leaner than other wines from this superb vintage, this is a mineral-driven Beaujolais that is a good prospect to improve over the next two to five years. Serve it with roast chicken.
89 Robert Whitley Dec 6, 2016

Georges Duboeuf, Domaine des Quatre Vents, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) 2015 ($22): This feminine cru shows gorgeous, supple red fruits with a hint of wood spice. If you are looking for suave elegance in a red wine, this one has it in spades.
92 Robert Whitley Dec 13, 2016

Georges Duboeuf, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine des Quatre Vents 2015 ($18, Quintessential):

The reputation of Beaujolais is that of an easy-drinking fruity wine to be consumed soon after release. That description may be accurate for most Beaujolais, but not those from ten villages, known as the cru of Beaujolais, whose wines are far more distinctive. There is even variability with wines from a cru. Take, for example, this Fleurie from Duboeuf. (To be fair, the wine comes from the Domaine des Quatre Vents and is commercialized by Duboeuf.) It’s a substantial wine, exhibiting a marvelous stony character and amazing depth. A pleasant tannic structure imparts a welcome firmness. It needs time -- a year or two, at least -- unlike the Fleurie from Château de Fleurie, which is delectable to drink now. Indeed, the Domaine des Quatre Vents was better the second night after I opened the bottle. This is a bargain price for a serious wine from a super vintage. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2018

Domaine Bertrand, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Les Deduits” 2021 ($25):

Domaine Bertrand's 2021 Fleurie is beautifully perfumed with notes of red plum, cranberry, spring flowers, and chalky minerality. On the palate, the wine shows bright red fruited flavors of strawberry and raspberry. It starts off tart and crunchy from the fruit and acidity, then fades to a slightly rounded ending with a pleasantly staying finish. The wine is delicate and approachable all at once.
92 John McDermott Dec 19, 2023

Miss Vicky, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Gamay “Ô Joie” 2020 ($6, Banville Wine Merchants):

You can turn your nose up at wine that comes in a can, but you would be missing out on this profoundly satisfying and enticing Cru Beaujolais. This ultra-refreshing Gamay has classic Fleurie aromas with hints of raspberry and redcurrant, followed by a lush-tasting experience of plump and crunchy fruits intertwined with fresh herbs, subtle spice, and a slightly mineral core. Bright acidity and silky tannins keep it fresh and lively. Enjoy often, slightly chilled, on any occasion. The price of $6 is per 250ml can.
92 Miranda Franco Feb 7, 2023

Pierre-Marie Chermette, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Poncié 2016 ($26, Weygandt-Metzler):

Pierre-Marie Chermette, a well-regarded producer in Fleurie, one of the cru of Beaujolais, focuses on terroir -- site specificity -- in keeping with the tradition in the rest of Burgundy. Chermette produces two excellent, but very different Fleurie, this one from Poncié and one from a slope called Garants. What’s fascinating is that the soil is similar -- pink granite -- but the orientation of the slopes is different. This Fleurie Poncié comes from a southeast facing slope, which, as a result of cooler morning sun, is floral and elegant with glossy tannins. Unlike wines labeled Beaujolais or even Beaujolais-Villages, this Poncié, while still delivering bright red fruity flavors, highlights its mineral-y component.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2018

Pierre-Marie Chermette, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Les Garants 2016 ($26, Weygandt-Metzler):

Pierre-Marie Chermette’s Fleurie Garants, though on the same pink granite soil as their Fleurie Poncié, comes from a southwest facing slope, which exposes it to warmer afternoon sun. Still highlighting the mineral component, it’s a slightly firmer, more muscular wine that maintains the incredible suaveness, which is always present in Chermette’s wines. These are both marvelously energetic mid-weight wines that will enliven grilled chicken or skirt steak this summer.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2018

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine des Hospices de Belleville 2015 ($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Beaujolais is clearly a hot area. Major Beaune-based Burgundy négociants are investing there, either by buying properties, such as Jadot with Château des Jacques, or, as with Drouhin, collaborating with the Domaine des Hospices de Belleville to produce and market their wines. One sure sign of quality and reliability is Drouhin’s name on a label, so it’s no surprise that they’ve succeeded with this Fleurie. Floral and ripe, without falling into the trap of over ripeness, it’s racy and vivacious. With Beaujolais like this one, consumers will start to finally realize it’s an area that is capable of producing real wine. Another “roast chicken” wine for this winter.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2016

Villa Ponciago, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) La Réserve 2009 ($20, Henriot, Inc):

Fleurie, similar to the other nine named villages or cru of the Beaujolais region, carries its own appellation. Indeed, there’s no reference to Beaujolais on Villa Ponciago’s label. And that’s probably just as well because this wine is as far away from the typical, slightly pejorative, image of Beaujolais. Characteristic of the appellation, the 2009 Villa Ponciago has an immediately alluring floral aspect, followed by richness and depth characteristic of the vintage. Its glossy texture and vinous, not grapey, signature makes it an extremely engaging wine.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2014

Château de Fleurie, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015 ($21, David Bowler Wine):

Sensational is the word that comes to mind when describing the 2015 vintage in Beaujolais. Of course, we are talking about the cru of Beaujolais, the ten villages within that region whose wines stand apart from the remainder of the region, which explains why the name of the cru alone -- without the word Beaujolais -- appears on the label. Fleurie is one of the top cru of Beaujolais. The 2015 from Château de Fleurie is pure charm. It conveys a wonderful mixture of red fruit flavors and minerality. Unlike Beaujolais Nouveau, fruitiness or sweetness is not the focus. It’s a perfect choice now with a roast chicken, hamburgers, or even pasta. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2018

Stéphane Aviron, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de la Madrière Vieilles Vignes 2013 ($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.):

There’s no better way to learn about the differences between the cru of Beaujolais than by tasting the wines of Stéphane Aviron, one of the appellation’s top producers. The house characteristics -- precision and harmony -- are apparent in all of them, but each reflects the specific terroir of the region. Take this Fleurie for example. The Domaine de la Madrière, his wife’s family’s property, delivers a floral elegance and long succulent red fruit flavors that dance across your palette. Plan on drinking it this fall with a roast chicken. You’ll be happy.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Villa Ponciago, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) La Reserve 2011 ($21, Henriot, Inc):

Beaujolais gets a bad rap. It’s partially deserved because of all of the slightly sweet and vapid swill labeled Beaujolais on the market. But there are a few producers who are trying desperately -- they must sometimes feel it’s like pushing a rock up a hill -- to change the image with their wines from the cru, or named villages, such as Fleurie, of the region. If more Beaujolais tasted like Villa Ponciago’s Fleurie, Beaujolais’ image would change rapidly. It’s flowery and bright, not sweet and cloying. It dances on the palate and refreshes it. Chilling it for 30 minutes enhances it even more. A good choice for Thanksgiving.
89 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014

Clos des Quatre Vents, Fleurie AOC (Beaujolais, France) 2018 ($24, Quintessential Wines):

You can't have Thanksgiving without a Beaujolais, and while this one isn't in the nouveau style, it's a perfect complement to the Thanksgiving table. This wine is produced by a family-owned estate vineyard managed by Georges Duboeuf. Offering all of the juicy, fruity delights you'd expect from the playful Gamay variety, this selection, which hails from the iconic pink granite soils of Fleurie, also offers a chiseled structure and a touch of earthiness no doubt a blessing from La Madone chapel, that overlooks this rolling vineyard.
94 Jessica Dupuy Nov 17, 2020

Domaine des Quatre Vents, Fleurie AOC (Beaujolais, France) 2018 ($24, Quintessential Wines):

This was one of Georges Duboeuf’s favorite domains. The king of Beaujolais admired its combination of delicacy and depth, for it is one of those rare wines of Beaujolais that you would dare age. The 2018 offers a spicy combination of red and black fruit aromas, a lifted floral note and silky tannins. It’s a keeper!
94 Robert Whitley Jul 21, 2020

Pardon et Fils, Fleurie AOC (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Hugo” 2021 ($20, Saranty Imports):

Cru Beaujolais is an excellent year-around wine. In the summer, I enjoy it with a light instantly-refreshing chill and, in the winter, it pairs with the heartiest foods. Pardon et Fils has been making Beaujolais since 1820 and their quality winemaking style shows in this under-$20 Cru Fleurie. Earthy wet concrete, graphite, and potting soil notes are supported by tart blackberry, cranberry, and pomegranate fruit. Designed for early consumption, enjoy the freshness of this wine anytime before 2026.
92 Vince Simmon Dec 12, 2023

Joseph Drouhin, Fleurie AOC (Beaujolais, France) Domaine Des Hospices de Belleville 2014 ($26, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Aromas of white pepper, flowers and crushed rock mix with cherry and raspberry fruit in this expressive Beaujolais. The palate delivers on that promise, adding a savory note that asks for a bolder dish as a pairing - lamb could work well, or a saucy pasta dish. There's some structure here that suggest some bottle aging will be of benefit, so decant a while in the near term, or cellar up to five years.
90 Rich Cook May 17, 2016

Domaine Mont Bessay, Juliénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “En Bessay” 2021 ($50, Misa Imports):

Wines from this new estate have the potential to put Juliénas on the same level as Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent when speaking of the Beaujolais cru. The stunning 2021 En Bessay delivers as explosive array of red fruit and spicy flavors, seamlessly woven together. Polished with a paradoxically charming briary component, the resulting texture is captivating. Great freshness amplifies its tremendous appeal. Fine tannins allow immediate enjoyment while still providing support. It is an ideal choice for a hearty stew this winter.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 12, 2023

Château des Capitans, Juliénas (Beaujolais, France) 2020 ($25, Quintessential Wines):

This is one very serious Beaujolais, with a dark ruby color, ripe raspberry, cherry and woody spices. It is medium-bodied with bright acidity and moderate tannins that will pair well with roast chicken, steak tartare or grilled salmon. The origins of Château des Capitans in the Beaujolais region of France date from the 1700s. The vines in the 29.7 acre vineyard are over 50 years old.
93 Rebecca Murphy May 16, 2023

Château des Capitans, Juliénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2017 ($22, Quintessential Wines):

A serious “Cru” Beaujolais from a single estate with real complexity and depth of flavor, this still manages to display the alluringly open fruit notes that make lesser wines so broadly popular. Plum and berry fruit notes are very generous but neither pushy nor obvious, with an undertow of savory and mineral accents providing sensory counterpoints that keep this interesting sip after delicious sip.
92 Michael Franz Mar 5, 2019

Georges DuBoeuf, Juliénas (Beaujolais, France) “Château des Capitans” 2019 ($23, Quintessential Wines):

Juliénas is one of the 10 crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais that labels the wine with the village name, omitting Beaujolais entirely. In addition to his “flower label” bottlings of Beaujolais, DuBoeuf produces or commercializes a bevy of notable ones, such as this one. Though his Château des Capitans focuses of the fruity aspect of Beaujolais, there’s plenty of spice and a briary element that complements the bright red fruit flavors. It displays terrific acidity, especially considering the warmth of the vintage, which keeps it fresh and lively. Mild tannins mean it will take a chill nicely without becoming astringent, making it a good choice for summer instead of an insipid rosé.
89 Michael Apstein May 18, 2021

Pardon et Fils, Juliénas AOC (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Les Mouilles” 2021 ($17, Saranty Imports):

Les Mouilles is a South-facing plot located just above the village of Juliénas. The vineyard’s orientation helps provide consistent sun coverage throughout the day and provides wonderfully ripe fruit each year. The 2021 vintage shows rich dark fruit, earthy leather and dried leaves, and a distinct black peppercorn note on both the nose and body. Les Mouilles is everything I love about Beaujolais Cru -- earthy, unique, and big flavor without any singular part of the wine becoming overbearing. With a price tag under $20, this is an easy-to-love bottle for any day of the week.
94 Vince Simmon Dec 12, 2023

Chateau des Capitans, Juliénas AOP (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2018 ($22, Quintessential Wines):

This “Cru” of Juliénas, a sub appellation of Beaujolais, acquits itself very well in this rendition, showing unusual structure and midpalate weight for a Gamay while delivering the expected sunny flavor profile. It would be a fine accompaniment for beef, chicken or fish, and good at room temperature as well as with a little chill.
91 Rich Cook Aug 11, 2020

Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Côte de Py 2017 ($37):

The union of Morgon producers divided Morgon into six climats according to soil type about 50 years ago, according to Godard. Now, more and more producers there -- and in Moulin-à-Vent as well -- are putting these sites on labels. Consumers, be prepared to become familiar with names like Corcelette, Côte de Py, Grand Cras, Douby, Charmes, and Micouds on wines from Morgon. The soils and vineyards’ exposure differ from one climat to another, so it’s not a surprise that the wines are different. Take Godard’s Côte de Py, from Morgon’s most well-known climat. This Morgan, though powerful, has considerable elegance and great length. Its tannins are apparent, but supple and balanced by dark fruitiness and minerality. Give it a few years in the cellar or drink it now with a robust lamb stew.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2018

Georges Duboeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de Javernieres Cote du Py 2015 ($20):

One of the stars of this extraordinary vintage, showing exceptional depth, with bold fruit flavors and a touch of minerality. Excellent potential to age up to ten years. This is not your father's Beaujolais! It has the guts to stand up to the strong flavor of lamb.
94 Robert Whitley Dec 6, 2016

P. Ferraud & Fils, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Les Charmes 2018 ($20):

Ferraud, though lacking a U.S. importer now, had been in this market for decades and is a well-established name with a proven track record. Yves-Dominique Ferraud told me he thought the 2018 vintage in Beaujolais was a combination of the ripeness of 2015 and the raciness of 2016. Judging from the few I tasted so far, including this one, I agree with that assessment. Les Charmes, another climat in Morgan, is home to less forceful wines -- dare I say, charming -- than those from Côte du Py. Ferraud’s 2018 certainly is. Bursting with fruit, paradoxically, it is not “fruity,” because of its structure and energy. Long and elegant, this is a fabulous Morgon. For us consumers, I hope he finds an importer, soon.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2019

Château de Pizay, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) 2020 ($28, U.S.A. Wine Imports):

Beaujolais Cru Morgon is known for producing a more robust style and Château de Pizay’s Morgon is definitely in that camp. This wine has an excellent body with food-friendly acidity and complimentary tannins. Dark fruits run throughout the wine and are supported by potting soil, wet leaves, and mineral iron notes. As warmer weather approaches, this wine drinks excellently with a slight chill and retains its food friendliness while also becoming instantly refreshing.
93 Vince Simmon Apr 2, 2024

Domaine Calot, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) “Vieille Vignes” 2015 ($27):

A serious wine from the Morgon “cru,” this Beaujolais is deeply colored and flavored, with earthy undertones that hint at rusticity while the more dominant fruity ones suggest something more urbane. It’s an intriguing red, with a somewhat paradoxical character but a forceful personality. As with any truly first-rate wine, drinking it compels contemplation.
93 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2018

Domaine Marcel Lapierre, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015 ($32, Kermit Lynch):

One sometimes hears that the best Beaujolais from crus like Morgon or Moulin-a-Vent taste like red Burgundies. That’s simply not true in my experience. The best, and this is a stellar example, taste like nothing else. They are Beaujolais to the core -- not sappy, banana-scented Nouveau, but serious, age-worthy stuff. This particular Morgon, from a producer widely acknowledged to be one of the region’s best, has a silky texture, red berry and plum fruit, and earthy undertones that linger effortlessly on the palate. It’s downright delicious and oh so French.
93 Paul Lukacs Jun 20, 2017

Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Grand Cras 2017 ($32):

Realizing the diversity of soils within Morgon, the wine producers there divided that appellation into six fairly large (averaging about 450 acres) climats, one of which is Grand Cras. This one, from Mee Godard, one of the rising stars in Morgon, comes from a single 1-acre plot of 20-year-old vines. The darker soil in Grand Cras compared to that in Corcelette, another of the Morgon climats, tells the story. A bigger and bolder wine, it has a paradoxical austerity and charm. Less accessible with firmer tannins than her Morgon Corcelette at this stage, it has a lovely firmness without a trace of hardness. Give it a few years in the cellar or open and decant it several hours before you serve it with a hearty stew this winter.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2018

Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Corcelette 2017 ($29):

Mee Godard, a young woman originally from Korea, is one of the rising shining stars of Beaujolais. Her wines are not to be missed because of their precision and distinctiveness, not to mention their sheer deliciousness. Located in Morgan, she bottled three different wines in 2017 from various climats (vineyards) in that cru, Corcelette, Côte de Py and Grand Cras. The one from Corcelette has a charming roundness that she says comes from the sandy soil. Although lighter than you’d imagine for a Morgon, it still has supporting tannins that lend necessary structure. For me, it’s the “Fleurie” of Morgon. Lovely now with coq au vin.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2018

Domaine Rochette, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2018 ($20, Wines of France – Alain Junguenet Selection):

Morgon is one of the top villages of Beaujolais and the Côte de Py is a superb site within the village. Domain Rochette’s 2018 bottling offers luscious fruit expression with impressive depth and complexity. The Rochette family has vineyard holdings in four of the Cru villages of Beajolais and they maintain a tradition of meticulous vine growing and winemaking. The Morgon Côte du Py vineyards rest on granite and schist soils on the slopes of the Beaujolais Mountains. The 2018 Rochette Morgon Côte du Py is a beautiful example of Cru Beaujolais depth and character. It has luscious and forward aromas of raspberry, red cherry, plum, violets and cinnamon spice. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of raspberry and cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, earth and spice. Delicious on its own, it’s a versatile companion for roasted fowl, grilled anything, and even richer seafoods – especially salmon recipes.
93 Wayne Belding Dec 8, 2020

Domaine Ruet, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Douby 2017 ($25, Schatzi Wines):

Consumers can select anything that Domaine Ruet makes and be happy with it. This Morgon, from the climat (or vineyard) Douby, is sensational. It has the firmness for which Morgon is known, but with a charming fruitiness and haunting minerality. It has a refinement and length that is not usually associated with Beaujolais. But this is not “Beaujolais,” but rather Douby from Morgon from a top producer. Lovely now with a summertime grilled steak, its balance suggests a lovely evolution. Yes, the label is unfamiliar -- Morgon, Douby. Consumers, it’s time to learn more geography. This wine shows why it’s worth it.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019

Chateau Grange Cochard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Côte de Py 2015 ($25, Weygandt-Metzler Importing):

Don’t make the mistake of thinking of all Beaujolais as light and frothy, or of Gamay as a second-rate grape variety. This serious, substantial wine demonstrates that both are capable of much more. Filled with seductive flavors echoing red fruits, leather, savory spice, and more, it has the sort of nuanced complexity one associates with red Burgundy or northern Rhône wines -- which makes sense, as the region sits right between these two more celebrated ones. More and more artisanal winemakers are fashioning Beaujolais like this, a development well worth celebrating as you toast the advent of 2019.
92 Paul Lukacs Dec 11, 2018

Daniel Bouland, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Corcelette Vieilles Vignes 2016 ($19, Weygandt-Metzler Importing):

A truly excellent Beaujolais, this classic Morgon offers a silky texture and lovely sweet fruit balanced by uplifting acidity. The Corcelette vines range from 65 to 80 years old (older than most people who will drink the wines!) and they are sustainably farmed and hand harvested. Part of the cuvée was aged in tanks, and the wine is unfiltered.
92 Marguerite Thomas Apr 23, 2019

Domaine J. Chamonard, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) “Le Clos de Lys” 2014 ($32, Savio Soares Selections):

It’s hard to determine from the importer’s website whether Le Clos de Lys is actually a single vineyard or a proprietary name for a wine that comes from several parcels in Morgon. No matter, the wine is excellent and reinforces my opinion that the cru of Beaujolais will be the next hot area for French wine. This Morgon has a firm earthiness -- a sign of serious wine -- not the grapey signature all too often associated with Beaujolais. As though to emphasize that distinction, the word Beaujolais does not appear on either the front or back label. It’s an ideal choice for a long simmered chicken and mushroom dish this winter.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2017

Domaine Pral, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) "Les Charmes" 2015 ($19, JP Bourgeois):

The best Beaujolais wines come from the ten Beaujolais Cru villages. Morgon is one of those and offers truly exciting and elementally pleasurable wines . Domaine Pral’s 2015 Morgon Les Charmes shows the beauty and potential of Morgon wines. Aromas of black cherry, plum, strawberry, violets, smoke and cinnamon spice fairly leap from the glass. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of luscious strawberry and black cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, graphite, smoke and spice. While Pral’s Morgon is delicious to sip on its own, it will also pair well with roasted chicken or most anything off the grill. 92 Wayne Belding Oct 11, 2016

Domaine Rochette, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2017 ($20, Wines of France – Alain Junguenet Selection):

The Crus of Beaujolais, although clearly gaining in popularity, remain one of the best bargains in the wine world. A good example from one of the ten Cru Villages offers luscious fruit expression with impressive depth and complexity. The Rochette family has vineyard holdings in four of the Crus and they maintain a tradition of meticulous vinegrowing and winemaking. The Domaine Rochette Morgon Côte du Py vineyards rest on granite and schist soils on the slopes of the Beaujolais Mountains. The 2017 Rochette Morgon Côte du Py is a beautiful example of the Beaujolais style. It has luscious and forward aromas of raspberry, red cherry, plum, violets and cinnamon spice. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of raspberry and cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, earth and spice. Delicious on its own, it’s a gulpable red wine as well as a fine choice for roasted chicken or salmon.
92 Wayne Belding Feb 12, 2019

Domaine Rochette, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2019 ($25, Wines Of France – Alain Junguenet Selection):

Morgon is one of the top Cru villages of Beaujolais and the Côte de Py is a superb site within the village. Domain Rochette’s 2019 bottling offers luscious fruit expression with impressive depth and complexity. The Rochette family maintains a tradition of meticulous vinegrowing and winemaking. Their Morgon Côte du Py vineyards rest on granite and schist soils on the slopes of the Beaujolais Mountains. The 2019 Rochette Morgon Côte du Py is a beautiful example of Cru Beaujolais depth and character. It has luscious and forward aromas of red cherry, red plum, raspberry, violets and cinnamon spice. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of raspberry and cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, earth and spice. Delicious on its own, it’s a versatile companion for roast chicken or most anything off the grill.
92 Wayne Belding Jul 20, 2021

Frédéric Berne, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Corcelette 2014 ($20):

I only became acquainted with Frédéric Berne’s Beaujolais during my annual trip to Burgundy last November. Based on my tasting of his 2014s, I would try anything he makes. He, like many of the top producers in Beaujolais, is raising the bar in that region by identifying vineyards within the cru (the 10 towns that produce the most distinctive wines) that have unique terroir and are capable of making superior wines. Corcellette is one such site in Morgon. The 2014 vintage in Beaujolais, while not receiving the hype of the 2015, is excellent and many consumers will prefer it to the more flamboyant 2015s. Berne’s Morgon Corcelette is firm without being austere and focuses on that elusive mineral quality rather than over fruitiness. This is great Beaujolais and shows that the region is capable of producing real wine, not just grapey Nouveau. Try it with a hearty stew this winter.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2016

Jean-Ernest Descombes (Georges Duboeuf Domaines), Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2018 ($24, Quintessential Wines):

The Crus of Beaujolais remain among the best bargains in the wine world. A good example from one of the ten Cru Villages offers luscious fruit expression with impressive depth and complexity. The Descombes family has vineyard holdings in Morgon and was the first estate that Georges Duboeuf partnered with in 1968. The Domain John-Ernest Descombes Morgon Côte du Py vineyards rest on granite and schist soils on the slopes of the Beaujolais Mountains. The 2018 is a beautiful example of the Cru Beaujolais style. It has luscious and forward aromas of raspberry, red cherry, plum, violets and spice. The flavors are pure, juicy and lively, with layers of raspberry and cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, earth and spice. Delicious on its own, it’s a gulpable red wine as well as a fine choice for roasted chicken or grilled salmon.
92 Wayne Belding Jun 16, 2020

Dominique Piron, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2017 ($30):

The Côte du Py is arguably the most famous climat or vineyard in Morgon and possibly all of Beaujolais. Composed of back stone, it can be home to power and dense wines that need considerable age before revealing their charms. But, as is always the case, the producer plays an enormous role in the style of the wine. With Piron’s 2017 Côte de Py there’s an engaging floral component to the wine that complements its firmness. Less powerful than many, this mineral-y infused wine is fine to open now.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2019

Georges Duboeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) 2015 ($20): Meaty and intense, with a beautiful core of red and black fruits and a richly textured palate. One of the more elegant Beaujolais cru you are likely to come across.
91 Robert Whitley Dec 6, 2016

Georges DuBoeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py “Jean-Ernest Descombes” 2019 ($35, Quintessential Wines):

The Côte du Py, a blue-stone slope, is the best-known subregion within the Morgon appellation. Gamay grown here takes on a firm and distinct mineral-like character, which often takes a couple of years to soften. However, the warmth of the 2019 vintage brought out a ripe bright dark cherry-like fruit in this Côte du Py. Its granitic-like background lends an intriguing ying-yang of fruitiness and firmness. Its ripeness allows this Morgon Côte du Py to be enjoyed now. The inherent acidity of the Gamay grape keeps it fresh and lively. Its tannins are more apparent compared to those of Château des Capitans, so it’s not suitable for chilling.
91 Michael Apstein May 18, 2021

Gilles Copéret, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2021 ($21, Monsièur Touton Selection):

The wines from Morgon, another of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, tend to be firm, rather that fleshy. With its chiseled profile, this long and lively one from Copéret fits that mold. A savory accent of subtle smokiness complements its engaging austerity. This would be a good choice this fall and winter to balance the richness of a succulent cut of meat.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 12, 2023

Jean-Claude Debeaune, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Domaine des Versauds” 2019 ($25, Saranty Imports):

Domaine des Versauds smells like aged Manchego rind in all the best of ways. It’s a little salty and savory and it melds wonderfully with the cranberry, red cherry skins, and minerality notes on the nose. The body has wonderfully balanced earthy tannins with dominant red fruit, leather, minerality, red licorice, and a touch of white pepper. Morgon is an excellent year-round wine, doubly so with seasonal white bean cassoulet.
91 Vince Simmon Dec 5, 2023

Jean-Claude Debeaune, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Belles Grives” 2019 ($23, Saranty Imports):

Surrounding the Villié-Morgon, the Appellation of Morgon is one of the more important Crus in Beaujolais. Known for producing denser fruit, many Morgon wines age incredibly well. Despite 2019 being a difficult vintage for Beaujolais, spring frosts and drought concerns mid-summer, Jean-Claude Debeaune's Belles Grives Morgon shows an excellent balance between minerality, ripe fruit, and earthy tannins. The nose also displays notes recalling fine cooking spices, including fried rosemary and thyme notes that can make anyone instantly hungry. Don’t let this wine’s light color fool you, as it has sufficient acidity and tannins to stand up to your favorite winter dishes.
91 Vince Simmon Dec 5, 2023

Joseph Drouhin, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Chateau Gaillard "Hospices de Belleville" 2014 ($21, Dreyfus Ashby):

A charming Beaujolais indeed, fresh and youthful, with a medium-weight body, delicate red fruit flavors, a touch of spice and light, supple tannins. Serve this with grilled chicken thighs or pork chops.
91 Marguerite Thomas Sep 5, 2017

Marcel Lapierre, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015 ($30, Kermit Lynch):

From a master vintner, Lapierre’s 2015 Morgon tastes fresh and bright, with ample cherry-scented fruit augmented by echoes of earth and savory spice. If you are among the many who think that wines from Beaujolais are inevitably simple and hence uninteresting, try this wine and be prepared for a delicious surprise. It can be a mind-changer.
91 Paul Lukacs Sep 5, 2017

Mommessin, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2020 ($23, Boisset America):

This is a chilled red wine from Beaujolais that should absolutely be on your summer wine list. Côte du Py is a tiny hillside in Morgon, Beaujolais, that is known for its blue stones, volcanic soils, and disintegrated schist soils. The wines are rich in minerality, and it is that minerality that I found so attractive in this wine. Additionally, I found a nice complexity from notes of potting soil and black fruit. Beaujolais cru wines, like Morgon, are becoming more popular -- especially amongst my friends who are sommeliers. They are big enough to serve with a steak but are also light enough to pair with pork. I personally enjoy these wines with a light chill which is why I would recommend them in spring and summer. With a price tag under $25, you will not be disappointed.
91 Vince Simmon May 17, 2022

Georges Duboeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Cote du Py 2015 ($22): At this stage lean and a bit tight, showing a strong note of minerality with superb underlying fruit and persistent length. A candidate for an additional year or so in the cellar.
90 Robert Whitley Dec 13, 2016

Domaine de Thulon, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) "Les Charmes" 2020 ($22):

A family run domaine with 32 acres producing a full roster of Beaujolais wines, Thulon adheres to traditional techniques for its Morgon. Though many Morgon wines can be aged, this one seems best for current drinking. Its aroma is full of ripe raspberry upfront fruit with a floral background note. Medium bodied, it is smooth on the palate with lots of raspberry, boysenberry flavors. Smooth and easy going with no rough edges. There is a little earthy hint in the finish, but this one is best enjoyed for its lovely aromatics. Serve slightly chilled.
89 Norm Roby Oct 25, 2022

Château des Jacques, Morgon AOC (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2020 ($25, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Wines from the Morgon appellation in Beaujolais are often described as powerful, a term you might dismiss if your only Beaujolais experience has been at the celebration of the Nouveau Beaujolais. The dark ruby color and aromas of spicy, black fruit with notes of stony minerals, is concentrated and rich in the mouth with black cherry, blackberry, pomegranate flavors laced with whispers of woody spice. It has a sturdy structure with smooth, ripe tannins and lively acidity. It is made at Château des Jacques, which was once a resting place on pilgrimage of the route to Santiago de Compostela. It was acquired by Louis Jadot, a major Burgundy house, in 1996.
94 Rebecca Murphy Nov 8, 2022

Pardon et Fils, Morgon AOC (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Côte du Py” 2021 ($20, Saranty Imports):

Côte du Py is easily the most prestigious named region of Morgon, known for producing complex and bold wines in a Cru known for its complexity and boldness. Pardon et Fils’ Côte du Py is terroir driven with minerality and dark fruit notes driving the experience. The wine’s tannins are fine and highlight the wine’s flint and iron notes. With a price tag around $20, you can have the best of Beaujolais on a Tuesday.
93 Vince Simmon Dec 12, 2023

Domaine Calot, Morgon AOC (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2019 ($30):

I find that Morgon wines tend to be the earthiest of the Beaujolais Cru and this one doubles down on that stereotype. Notes recalling crushed rocks, dried tobacco leaves, sun-dried red and black fruit, and campfire ash all bounce around like trying to follow a Steven King storyline. The complexity is exciting. Beaujolais are great food-pairing wines and the tannins in this one make it perfect for a rich, fattier dish. I’m pairing it with a brisket ragú.
90 Vince Simmon Dec 27, 2022

Jean-Ernest Descombes (Georges Duboeuf Domaines), Morgon AOC (Beaujolais, France) 2018 ($24, Quintessential Wines):

One of the most reliable and complex of all the cru Beaujolais, this example from Jean-Ernest Descombes runs true to form. A note of violets on the nose pulls you into the glass seductively, where it delivers sweet red fruits, a juicy texture and soft, supple tannins that make for easy summer sipping.
90 Robert Whitley Jul 28, 2020

Maison l’Envoyé, Morgon AOP (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2016 ($19, Old Bridge Cellars):

If your idea of Beaujolais is cheerful and simple, but you prefer intense, structured red wines, consider Morgon, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais. Within the Morgon cru, the Côte du Py (pronounced, “coat deh pea”), area produces some of the most intense and powerful wines. This wine from Maison l’Envoyé is a great example with its generous blackberry, raspberry fruit entangled with dusty mineral notes. While the fruit is intense, it is animated with decisive acidity and supported by burnished tannins. It is still quite young and should continue to please for several years. Maison l’Envoyé is a collaboration between Rob Buono and Gavin Speight, founders of Old Bridge Cellars, a US fine-wine importer, and Mark Tarlov, whose multifaceted career includes movie director and producer, speechwriter for a Supreme Court Chief Justice and founder of Evening Land Vineyards. Together they are on a quest to identify and promote underappreciated, terroir-driven growers of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay Noir from Burgundy, Willamette Valley, Central Otago and Tasmania.
94 Rebecca Murphy Oct 29, 2019

Ludovic Montginot, Morgon Côte du Py AOPg (Beaujolais, France) 2020 ($19, Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants):

Beaujolais is my favorite summer red wine choice. Its flavors are bright enough to be enjoyed with a chill, it has enough acidity to pair with a wide variety of food, and there are a lot of really excellent wines coming from Beaujolais Crus at reasonable prices. Morgon is at the top of my list and, within Morgon, the small hill of Côte du Py continues to impress me with their quality wines. Ludovic’s Morgon manages to show rustic earthy notes, classic for Morgon, while also showing desirable floral rose petals and red blossoms. With a 13% alcohol, and when provided a light chill, I really enjoy this wine after a long day of working outside.
90 Vince Simmon Jun 13, 2023

Georges Duboeuf, Morgon, Jean Ernest Descombes (Beaujolais, France) 2015 ($22): This elegant wine is suave and refined, with a fleshy texture that doesn’t hide the fact that it has a strong thread of minerality. A voluptuous Beaujolais without losing its tension; exquisitely balanced.
91 Robert Whitley Dec 13, 2016

Georges Duboeuf, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de La Vigne 2015 ($25):

Meaty and bold without sacrificing elegance, with intense red and black fruits and a touch of wood spice, this is perhaps the most sophisticated and compelling Beaujolais I have tasted from this vintage. Serve with richly sauced steak or veal, or with roast pork or rack of lamb.
95 Robert Whitley Dec 6, 2016

Georges Duboeuf, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, France) 2015 ($20): A stunning wine that exhibits richness and depth, with complex red and black fruit aromas and a striking note of white pepper spice. Exotic and delicious and among the most age-worthy of the Beaujolais crus. Pair it with game or a simple grilled beef steak.
94 Robert Whitley Dec 13, 2016

Domaine Yohan Lardy, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “Les Michelons” 2016 ($22, Zancanella Importing):

An earthy Beaujolais, with some of the rural “funk” that characterizes many Rhône and some Burgundy reds. If you insist on your wines tasting squeaky clean, it’s not for you. But if, like me, you have a soft spot for the French countryside, you’ll love it. The wine is fairly soft and light to medium-bodied, so should prove very versatile at the supper table. Just know that you’ll be drinking something rustic.
90 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2018

Domaine Labruyère, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) "Le Clos" 2016 ($36, Frederick Wildman and Sons):

I hear it already, “How can you give Beaujolais 95 points?” First, this is not Beaujolais really; it’s from Moulin-à-Vent, arguable the best of the 10 cru of Beaujolais, which taken together, are in a class by themselves. Secondly, it’s an outstanding wine, showing the complexity that the Gamay grape planted on granite soil can achieve. It helps that the winemaker, Nadine Gublin, is a star who also is responsible for the wines at the Domaine Jacques Prieur, a leading Burgundy house. As is becoming the practice in Moulin-à-Vent and other cru of Beaujolais, producers are bottling individual vineyard wines separately, such as this one, just as is done in the rest of Burgundy. Le Clos, a single small (2.4-acre) plot with vines that average 50 years of age, is a monopole, that is, owned exclusively by Domaine Labruyère. The focus of Le Clos is on the mineral aspect that the granite soil imparts, rather than the fruitiness of Gamay. The hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces that focus. It’s a long, refined and graceful wine that makes you stop and say, “Wow, that’s not Beaujolais.” The tannins are fine, which allows for enjoyment now, but it has the presence and balance to evolve beautifully over the next decade. I’ll stick by my 95-point assessment.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 17, 2018

Domaine Mee Godard, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Michelons 2017 ($27):

Godard just acquired a vineyard in Moulin-à-Vent, expanding her holdings to about 16 acres in total. Au Michelon, located in the northern part of Moulin-à-Vent, has dark stones and dark sandy soil, according to Godard, which she says gives the wine a combination of power and elegance. No doubt about its character. The wine is more floral and suppler than her wines from Morgon with a suave tannic structure, imparting a velvet-like texture. Long and graceful, the dark fruit and mineral aspect shine. People who look down their noses at Beaujolais will get an education from Mee Godard’s wines.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2018

P. Ferraud et Fils, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) "La Dynastie des Ferraud" 2015 ($30):

Though Ferraud’s wines have been in the U.S. market in the past, they currently have no importer, which is a shame because they consistently make distinctive Beaujolais. (The prices I quote come from a world-wide averages.) My experience with their wines comes from decades ago when they were imported and, more recently, drinking them in Paris bistros. A tasting earlier this year in New York showed that they haven’t lost their touch. La Dynastie des Ferraud originally was a barrel selection of their best wine, from any off the Beaujolais crus. For the last seven years it has come from Moulin-à-Vent and has been made in conjunction with a Burgundy producer who supplies 3-year old oak barrels where the wine ages for six months on its fine lees. Mineral-y and suave, it conveys a Syrah-like peppery quality that adds allure. It is a powerful wine reflective of the superb and ripe 2015 vintage, yet it is not overblown or jam-y. On the contrary, it’s refined and elegant despite its power. Long and graceful, it shows the heights to which Beaujolais can rise.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 30, 2019

Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) 2017 ($26, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Beaujolais is still trying to remind people it produces real, top-notch wine, not just “nouveau.” Well, Jadot’s Château des Jacques is a convincing exhibit. For over 20 years, Château des Jacques has been instrumental in showing the diversity of wines from within the crus of Beaujolais, those ten named villages, such as Moulin-à-Vent, whose wines are so distinctive that they may not even carry the name Beaujolais on the label. Château des Jacques makes up to six single-vineyard Moulin-à-Vent depending on the vintage as well as this one, a blend from their eight vineyards. (Two of those eight are not bottled separately.) The 2017 Château des Jacques is a terrific example of the heights Beaujolais can reach when the producer takes the area seriously. Though the first impression an appealing floral character, its focus is on minerals, not fruit, though dark fruit flavors are present. Firm, yet suavely textured, it is a fresh and lively wine. It finishes with an attractive hint of bitterness, making it perfect for current consumption with a mushroom laded roast chicken. It’s quite the bargain.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 22, 2020

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2012 ($30, Wilson Daniels):

Moulin-à-Vent, with its iconic windmill perched at the top of the hill, is the most revered of the ten crus of Beaujolais. The cru are small areas in the north of Beaujolais with granitic soil which produce wines that couldn’t be further from the tutti-frutti character of Beaujolais Nouveau, which, sadly, remains the image of the region to far too many consumers. The Château du Moulin-à-Vent, one of the area’s top producers, sits virtually adjacent to the windmill. Its wines are as iconic as the windmill. This one, a blend from a variety of vineyards scattered around the hillside, is a good place to start. You can practically feel the granite through the wine’s firmness. Despite its firmness, this is not an aggressive or tannic wine, but rather a well-balanced young wine. Not at all grapey, it’s a mineraly wine that reveals its sturdy stuff slowly. Drink it now with hearty winter fare or put it into the cellar to see for yourself how “Beaujolais” can develop.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2016

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) La Rochelle 2014 ($33, Wilson Daniels):

Château du Moulin-à-Vent sits virtually adjacent to the iconic wind-mill that gives the name to the village that many consider the top cru of Beaujolais. They, along with other top producers in Moulin-à-Vent, are intent on highlighting the differences among the vineyards. It’s a welcome trend that consumers should expect to see more often. This one, from the La Rochelle vineyard is gorgeous, a balanced mixture of dark fruit and granitic-like minerality. Long and sophisticated, tannins are noticeable, imparting a pleasant firmness, without being hard or astringent. An alluring hint of bitterness in the finish reminds you this is serious wine.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2016

Domaine Bel Avenir, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) En Mortperay 2017 ($25):

Growers in Moulin-à-Vent, the most robust of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, have embraced the concept of making wines from specific sites, just as in the Côte d’Or, their more famous neighbor in Burgundy to the north. En Mortperay is one such site, situated on the edge of the appellation, bordering Fleurie. More floral and elegant than you might expect for a Moulin-à-Vent at this youthful stage, it still conveys plenty of power. Its impeccable balance, interplay of flavors, and lingering finish make it a very serious wine and hard to resist now.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2019

Domaine Diochon, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) Vieilles Vignes 2020 ($26, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

The best Beaujolais wines come from the ten Beaujolais Cru villages. Moulin-à-Vent is one of those and offers truly exciting and elementally pleasurable wines. Domaine Diochon’s 2020 Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes shows the beauty and potential of Moulin-à-Vent wines. Aromas of black cherry, plum, strawberry, violets and cinnamon spice fairly leap from the glass. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of luscious blackberry, strawberry and black cherry fruits underlain by hints of plum, graphite and spice. Diochon’s Moulin-à-Vent is delicious to sip on its own, it will also pair well with roasted chicken and many hearty fall menus.
93 Wayne Belding Sep 27, 2022

Domaine Mont Bessay, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Le Vieux Bourg 2021 ($50, Misa Imports):

Domaine Mont Bessay is a new project from the people who make the beautifully textured wines at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in Givry. Just as Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko are drawing attention to Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise — not to be confused with Gevrey in the Côte d’Or — they will make the world think differently about Beaujolais cru wines. This racy Moulin-à-Vent delivers dark minerality wrapped in a suave robe of firm, not hard, tannins. This wine comes from grapes grown on lighter sandier soil in Moulin-à-Vent as opposed to the granitic soil around the windmill, which likely explains why this youthful wine is so engaging to drink now. Both charming and serious, it is a good option for grilled beef.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 12, 2023

Georges DuBoeuf, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “Domaine des Rosiers” 2019 ($27, Quintessential Wines):

Wines from Moulin-à-Vent tend to be the sturdiest of all Beaujolais crus because of the granitic soil in that area. And there’s no doubt that you can taste and feel its presence in this wine. This Moulin-à-Vent, the most mineral-y of this trio of DuBoeuf Beaujolais crus, finishes with a balancing and welcome hint of bitterness. Its uplifting acidity amplifies its appeal. A sturdy wine with elegance, it will help bury the outdated view that Beaujolais is a simple wine of little consequence.
92 Michael Apstein May 18, 2021

P. Ferraud & Fils, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “L’Éolienne” 2016 ($25):

Ferraud has had presence on the U.S. market for decades, but currently lacks an importer. That’s a shame because their wines are distinctive and unique. Take this one -- a classic Moulin-à-Vent with fruit-infused charm, minerality, and a lovely fleshiness. A firm, rather than hard, profile makes it perfect for current consumption, but knowing how their wines develop, there’s certainly no rush. Although there are lots of climats (vineyards) in Moulin-à-Vent from which growers are making single vineyard wines, L’Éolienne is not one of them. It’s a proprietary name. But don’t sweat the details, the wine is worth it.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019

Domaine de Chênepierre Christophe Lapierre, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2019 ($22):

small domain produces several Cru Beaujolais from it 10.5 hectare, organically farmed vineyard. Among the appellation’s 10 Beaujolais Crus, Moulin a Vent is the one that always seems to me to age the best. This 2019 is just coming together and will drink well over the next several years. Made by traditional vinification practices, it is deep in color with effusive aromas of dark berries and currants. Smooth and round on the palate, it is elegant in style with a mix of cherry, spice, and earthy flavors. Nicely balanced with soft tannins, it finishes on a long youthful note.
91 Norm Roby Jun 21, 2022

Domaine Labruyère, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Coeur de Terroirs” 2016 ($27, Frederick Wildman and Sons):

Domaine Labruyère, a serious producer based in Moulin-à-Vent, has a variety of bottlings from that Beaujolais cru. This one, a blend of grapes from older vines and aged in older oak barrels, reminds us of just how good and exciting wines from Moulin-à-Vent can be. Structured without being austere or hard, it delivers a gorgeous array of dark fruit and gaminess. For those who think Beaujolais is a frivolous wine, open a bottle of this one with whatever meat you’re grilling this summer and smile at its seriousness.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 17, 2018

Maison Louis Jadot, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Chateau des Jacques 2012 ($26, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):

Showing significantly more depth than more modest Beaujolais or even many “cru” wines, this is a serious red, with real complexity, particularly in the finish. Moulin-à-Vent tends to produce weightier wines than the other crus, and some examples can taste overly ponderous. This one, though, stays true to its varietal as well as its geographical origin, tasting exuberantly of Gamay.
91 Paul Lukacs Apr 5, 2016

Manoir du Carra, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Les Burdelines” 2018 ($27, Kysela Pere et Fils):

The 2018 Moulin-à-Vent Les Burdelines is a gorgeous crimson purple in color, and is made from 100 percent Gamay. A dynamic and intense bouquet of rose petals and scents of red and black fruits follows with billowing aromas of black currants, cherries, and peppery spice. On the mouth-filling palate, you find rich red fruits, full of berries and fleshy plums, supported by finely grained tannins that lead to a bright and energetic finish. It is insanely delicious now but has significant aging potential.
91 Miranda Franco Aug 23, 2022

Domaine de la Vigne Romaine, Moulin-a-Vent AOC (Beaujolais, France) 2018 ($29, Quintessential Wines):

If you’ve ever wondered if cru Beaujolais was worth the additional cost, the answer is yes. This stunning vintage from Domaine de la Vigne Romaine is opulent by Beaujolais standards, delivers a beautiful bouquet of wild flowers and freshly crushed berries and impressive depth and weight on the palate. Beautifully balanced and ready to drink now.
95 Robert Whitley Aug 11, 2020

Domaine des Rosiers, Moulin-a-Vent AOC (Beaujolais, France) 2018 ($28):

To aficionados, Moulin-a-Vent is the king of Beaujolais cru, and it is priced accordingly. That said, great wines that retail below $30 a bottle aren’t easy to come by, so the 2018 from Domaine de Rosiers qualifies as a steal. What makes Moulin-a-Vent special is its unique power and depth compared to other Beaujolais, even Beaujolais cru. This vintage is dark and inky, with firm tannins and richly layered dark berry fruit aromas, a note of wood spice and exceptional persistence through the finish.
94 Robert Whitley Sep 29, 2020

Château des Jacques, Moulin-a-Vent AOC (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos du Grand Carquelin 2019 ($41, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

According to the winemaker, 2019 was a difficult harvest because of rain. However, despite the rain, he managed to create this polished, intense wine with concentrated, focused flavors of black cherry, strawberry fruit with floral and spicy notes finishing with smooth tannins and crisp acidity. The appellation of Moulin-a-Vent refers to an old mill standing at over 900 feet of elevation in the middle of the vineyards. Château des Jacques owns 88 hectares (216 acres) of vines in six crus. While Beaujolais is part of Burgundy, the soil in Beaujolais is pink granite as opposed to the limestone and clay in the rest of Burgundy. The grape variety is Gamay as opposed to Pinot Noir in Burgundy.
93 Rebecca Murphy Nov 8, 2022

Château des Jacques, Moulin-a-Vent AOC (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Rochegres 2019 ($41, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

This is a single vineyard wine from the Clos de Rochegres where the vines grow at an altitude of 1,148 feet providing crisp acidity and freshness. The grapes were allowed to macerate for three to four weeks, soaking up color and flavors from the skins. The wine spent ten months in a combination of new and used barrels. The result is a beautifully structured wine with intense flavors of black cherry, blackberry flavors, with spicy, vanilla notes, lifted by crisp acidity and finishing with ripe tannins. It is drinking well now, but will reveal more charm over time. The Beaujolais region in Burgundy, France, was recently declared a UNESCO Global Geopark, defined as a “single, unified geographical area where sites and landscapes of international geological significance are managed with a holistic concept of protection, education and sustainable development.” That declaration was based upon a major soil study instigated by the Inter Beaujolais organization and the Rhône Chamber of Agriculture that mapped a geological snapshot of the 12 appellations. The study showed more soil varieties than expected, and that information is helpful to those involved in growing the grape and making the wines of Beaujolais.
92 Rebecca Murphy Nov 8, 2022

Domaine des Rosiers, Moulin-a-Vent AOC (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2018 ($28, Quintessential Wines):

I can't think of a better place to look for value than Beaujolais. It seems to be an appellation that constantly over-delivers for the price asked. This bottle is all about spicy raspberry and perfumed floral aromas that jump from the glass and get a lively dry delivery on the palate. The fruit remains balanced with the spice all the way through, and a supple structure lets you know that you can get a few extra bottles to enjoy over the next few years.
92 Rich Cook Oct 6, 2020

Château du Basty, Régnié (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015 ($16, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection):

The wines from Régnié, the last of the 10 villages in Beaujolais to achieve cru status, have a tendency to be hard and rustic. Not this one. This Régnié from the Château du Basty shows great refinement. A charming rusticity and earthiness perfectly balances and complements its clean bright fruitiness. Fresh and lively, there’s no over ripeness or sweetness. This Régnié demonstrates the talents of the producer and the grandeur of the vintage. And it’s a bargain. Don’t miss it. 92 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2017

Julien Sunier, Régnié (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2018 ($28, Williams Corner Wine):

Beaujolais Nouveau Day (the third Thursday of November) has come and gone, but for more cerebral wines, look to Beaujolais Crus. This Régnié from Julien Sunier (a darling of the natural wine movement) is a revelation. A superb rendering of Gamay, it offers a breeze of dark raspberries and wild strawberries peppered with suggestions of crushed violets, rose petal, and light spice on the nose. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, smooth, and soft with a slight crunch of tannin and acidity that provides an impressively long finish.
92 Miranda Franco Nov 24, 2020

Chateau du Basty, Régnié (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Chateau du Basty, situated a stone’s throw from Régnié and Morgon, two of the Beaujolais cru, has been in the same family since 1482 so it’s safe to assume they know something about the area. When I tasted there last November, there was no electricity because of a wind storm. Their wines, however, provided all the electricity that was needed. Gilles and Pernette Perroud, who own the estate, avoided the pitfall of over ripeness in their 2015s, making an enthralling line up. Take this Régnié. The ever so slightly rustic tannins that make the wines from Régnié distinctive and appealing were beautifully balanced by the ripe fruitiness of the 2015 vintage. Everything -- earthiness, tannins, red fruit -- is present. Nothing is out of balance or awkward. The quality and price of this wine is another example of why the crus of Beaujolais are poised to a big hit in the coming years. Try it this winter, or even over the next several years, with a long-simmered stew.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017

P. Ferraud et Fils, Saint-Amour (Beaujolais, France) 2017 ($17):

Saint-Amour is the most northern Beaujolais cru and the second smallest, after Chénas. Clay in the granitic soil here adds an oomph to the wines, according to growers to whom I spoke. Ferraud’s is wonderfully fragrant and immediately enticing. After its floral allure, its power comes as a surprise, but a welcome one because it is not overdone. Firmness balances its cherry-like ripeness.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 30, 2019

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau (Burgundy, France) Rosé 2018 ($14, Quintessential Wines):

With its engaging rich pink color and mouthwatering hints of strawberry and citrus, Georges Duboeuf’s 2018 offering is everything one hopes for in a Beaujolais nouveau. Zesty, fun, tasty, and appetizing, it offers pleasure sipped on its own, but it also carries its notorious charms to the table to be enjoyed with light fare such as shrimp or cold cuts, and it’s terrific with a grilled cheese sandwich.
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 2, 2019

Dominique Piron, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($20, Baron Francois):

Yes, some Beaujolais is white. And it’s worth looking for because it frequently delivers great value. As white Burgundies, even from the Mâconnais, rise in price, consumers need to search elsewhere for value for French Chardonnay-based wines. Made exclusively from Chardonnay, white Beaujolais accounts for only about five percent of the region’s production. This one is crisp and mineraly, delivering a lovely combination of delicate fruitiness and stoniness. The price makes it even easier to enjoy.
89 Michael Apstein Sep 28, 2021

Chateau Bourdieu, Blaye (Côtes de Bordeaux, France) 2019 ($22, Tri Vin Imports):

This beautiful estate, located on the right bank of Bordeaux’s Gironde River, looks as idyllic as the wine is delicious. Luc Schweitzer and his two sons have produced an elegant and beautifully balanced red wine here that is enticingly aromatic. In the mouth it spreads across the palate releasing red and black berry flavors balanced by a streak of cassis. A blend of Merlot (89%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) and Malbec (3%), it is rich and structured, with silky tannins and a lingering finish. This is an ideal wine to serve with red meat, rich pasta dishes, and serious cheese.
94 Marguerite Thomas Oct 11, 2022

Château Haut Boilon, Blaye Côtes De Bordeaux (France) 2018 ($22, Hemispheres LLC):

Very attractive on the nose, this “baby Bordeaux” acquits itself well with aromas of wildflowers, blackberry and soft vanilla. On the palate, it shows its youth with a firm grip and a shy reveal of the nose elements, which leads me to recommend a bit of bottle aging before going in – five years or so should do the trick. A promising value! A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.
93 Rich Cook Feb 9, 2021

Château Bourdieu, Blaye, Côtes De Bordeaux (France) 2019 ($18, MISA Imports):

This chateau has been remarkably visible at both brick & mortar and online wine shops. Blaye, like Bourg, Fronsac and others can now be labeled “Cotes de Bordeaux,” and more and more wines under this banner are being imported. When living in the area, I visited Blaye, a historic walled village, and tried many of its wines. But though inexpensive, nothing back then offered much to get excited about, and quite a few of the wines seemed a little dried out or suffered from aging in old barrels. But the current owners who acquired this old estate in the mid-1990s appear to have improved the viticulture and winemaking approach. The result is an attractive 2019 wine. Make that an attractive Right Bank Bordeaux style wine. Made from 87% Merlot and equal amounts of the two Cabernets, it shows enticing aromas of plums and allspice. Medium bodied and well balanced, it offers compact flavors of dark fruits with a touch of herbs. It finishes with light tannins. A genuine Bordeaux offering good value.
90 Norm Roby Jul 13, 2021

Bracey Vineyards, Bordeaux (France) “Cuvée Rive Droite” 2010 ($110):

Winemaker Robert Bracey has his hands in California and in France, and this wine from Bordeaux’s right bank is the best I’ve tasted from him to date. The aroma mix includes cherry, blackberry, flowers, dusty minerality, mild dried herbs and a touch of mild mixed peppercorns. It’s very rich and supple on the palate, delivering the nose elements well and integrating all of the flavors in a long, complex finish. While it is very approachable now, it will age nicely over the next ten to fifteen years.
95 Rich Cook Dec 24, 2013

Château Philippe Jacques & Co, Bordeaux (France) 2019 ($40):

Another moderately priced Bordeaux hit the Chief Judge table, this one offering a pleasant bell pepper note to the typical regional profile. That contrast serves the wine well, and it will serve you well when pairing with a roast encrusted in herbs. It’s nicely balanced and well executed. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Monterey International Wine Competition.
93 Rich Cook Mar 23, 2021

Bracey Vineyards, Bordeaux (France) “Cuvée Rive Gauche” 2010 ($110):

This wine from Bordeaux’s left bank shows great depth of aroma with blackberry, currants, dry earth, damp earth and cedar spice all in evidence. On the palate, very bright acidity and supple tannin structure hold up an herb and earth driven wine with the fruit balancing as a compliment. I’d give this wine a few years to integrate fully and reap the rewards.
92 Rich Cook Dec 24, 2013

Château Saint-Sulpice, Bordeaux (France) 2018 ($15, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):

This fragrant red Bordeaux wine is not only comparatively inexpensive but also soft and refreshing, with clear and conspicuous flavors dominated by earthy, fruity and spicy red fruit flavors. The wine is a blend of 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Malbec. Saint-Sulpice is a 145 acre estate located in Entre-Deux-Mers, 14 miles from the city of Bordeaux. Saint-Sulpice owner and winemaker Pierre Dubergé and his son Christophe surely have winemaking in their genes as they descend from eleven generations of winemakers.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 5, 2021

Famille Bouey, Bordeaux (France) “Les Parcelles No 8” 2020 ($20, Quintessential Wines):

This third offering from Famille Bouey shows what happens when you substitute Cabernet Franc for Cabernet Sauvignon. The blend is still Merlot-heavy (80%), but Cabernet Franc replaces its brother. I assume the name, Les Parcelles No 8, refers to particular plots where Cabernet Franc and Merlot do especially well. There’s a real step-up in complexity with less emphasis on ripe fruitiness and more on earthy, non-fruit flavors. The texture, like Bouey’s other wines, is refined, but the balance between fruity notes, savory ones, and acidity here is even better. And the finish even longer. A touch more structure tells me this would be a good choice for grilled lamb chops. It also shows that you needn’t spend a fortune for good Bordeaux and helps explain why wines from that appellation are so popular.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2022

Château Bonnet, Bordeaux (France) 2001 ($11, W. J. Deutsch & Sons): Château Bonnet is one of the many Bordeaux wines owned by the estimable André Lurton house, one of the largest producers in the region, and now making wines all over the world. I have always found Château Bonnet, both the red and the white, to be among the most consistently reliable inexpensive Bordeaux wines, and the '01 Rouge does not disappoint. It has aromas and flavors of dark red fruits with an earthy note, and is well-balanced, with good acidity. Linear more than round; a classic Bordeaux. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château de Sours, Bordeaux (France) 2010 ($20, Old Bridge Cellars):

Although the producer is always the most important information on the label, sometimes the importer’s name makes me sit up and take notice. For example, if Jeanne Marie de Champs’ name were on the back label, I would buy the wine. Similarly, when you see Old Bridge Cellars on a bottle, it’s a good bet you’ll enjoy it. Château de Sours, located not far from St. Emilion and Pomerol, but sporting a simple Bordeaux appellation, delivers more than its pedigree suggests. This Merlot-based blend leads with slightly earthy aromatics that you’d expect from that grape and follows with a lovely combination of red fruit-like flavors and herbal savory notes. Mild tannins allow you to enjoy this refined wine now with broiled lamb chops.
89 Michael Apstein Oct 14, 2014

Château Fontaubert, Bordeaux (France) 2020 ($15, Selection Ltd.):

At only $15, Chateau Fontaubert's 2020 Bordeaux still manages to show tipicity and depth. Notes of ripe cherries, graphite, and forest floor all waft from the glass. In the mouth, the wine is bright and punchy, as flavors of blackberries, cherries, and semi-sweet chocolate sit against balanced acidity and pleasant tannin structure. While this wine is rather simple, it brings a lot to the table at its $15 price point — and from Bordeaux, no less. This wine is a great Tuesday night drinker, on its own or with food.
89 John McDermott Feb 13, 2024

Chateau Leroy-Beauval, Bordeaux (France) 2018 ($32, North Berkeley Wine Imports):

This is a great drink-now option when you need a Bordeaux fix. The wine is balanced and the fruit is a good mix of fresh and dried fruit ranging from blackberry to prune. The winemaker’s oak aging regimen is apparent as a molasses and chewing tobacco note comes rushing through on the finish. The blend is 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Chateau Leroy-Beauval Bordeaux would be a good choice when you need an earthy French wine but don’t want to pull something from your cellar.
89 Vince Simmon Oct 11, 2022

Château Nicot, Bordeaux (France) 2009 ($10, Wine Brokers International): It is ironic that, at the same time Bordeaux is criticized for becoming a luxury commodity, it is producing terrific bargain wines like this one. Attractive herbal elements harmonize with plenty of dark fruit flavors. A subtle, fleeting bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal. Plush tannins make it perfect for current consumption. Buy it by the case--or two. Ten bucks! 89 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

Château Gravelier, Bordeaux (France) 2010 ($10, Esprit du Vin): Let me know when you find a better $10 red wine. This Merlot dominant (70%) blend is an unbelievable bargain, delivering both fleshy fruit flavors and balancing savory notes. Solid weight, freshness, and an ever so slightly bitter finish just add to the enjoyment. Buy it by the case.
88 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013

Chateau Lauduc, Bordeaux (France) 2003 ($10, Henry Wine Group): This value-priced red Bordeaux succeeds where many more expensive wines fail: It tastes legitimately of the region. The wine doesn't exhibit the depth or power of top classified-growth Bordeaux, but it does display just the right interplay of primary fruit and secondary earthy flavors. All for only $10. 88 Paul Lukacs Jan 31, 2006

Château Surain, Bordeaux (France) 2019 ($11):

With its 15 percent-stated alcohol, this deeply colored and broad-based, bold Bordeaux emphasizes ripe and lush fruitiness, yet has sufficient balancing herbal character. Good acidity keeps it fresh and a pleasant hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its character. It’s a good one for current drinking with grilled flank or skirt steak, and reminds us that all Bordeaux need not reside in the cellar for a decade or be available to only the “one-percenters.” It’s a great bargain for this summer’s grilling season.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2021

Château Thieuley, Bordeaux (France) 2005 ($12, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): A gorgeous blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows the combination of grace and ripeness that is the hallmark of the 2005 vintage. Unusually complex for a wine of this price, it has nuances of earth and other non-fruit flavors to complement the fruit flavors. Supported by firm -- but not astringent -- tannins means it goes better with a steak or other red meat rather than as a before dinner 'glass of Merlot.' It's an example of why Bordeaux still has a great reputation for producing excellent wines at a fair price, especially in the 2005 vintage. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2008

Christian Moueix, Bordeaux (France) Merlot “Encore” 2005 ($15, Kobrand):

If the Moueix family, who owns or controls many properties in Pomerol--including Chateau Pétrus--where Merlot is king, can’t produce an exhilarating Merlot, then no one can. The name, Encore, is apt because after one taste you want more of this serious Merlot. With succulent--but not sweet or overripe fruit--and balanced fine tannins, it shows the brilliance of the producer and the vintage. It’s easy to recommend for current drinking.

Famille Bouey, Bordeaux (France) “Maison Blanche” 2020 ($17, Quintessential Wines):

This is a perfect example of why place matters. Here is the same blend of Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon from the same vintage made by the same producer as Bouey’s Oh La Vache. The only difference is the location of the grapes. In this case, they came just from the smaller Bordeaux appellation compared to the broader IGP Atlantique. Tasted side-by-side, this Bordeaux, though still fruity, is less juicy, showing more earthy notes with a touch more structure. There is also more going on in the finish. I would be less likely to chill this one, but I would still serve it with the burgers or steaks coming off the grill.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2022

Mouton Cadet, Bordeaux (France) 2003 ($9): Those who have avoided Mouton Cadet because they feel it is 'mass produced' need to taste the 2003 vintage of this standard-bearer from Bordeaux. Ripe, reflecting the vintage, but most importantly balanced, it has unexpected subtly and graceful tannins. Not overdone, it's a good example of what Bordeaux has to offer. Be sure to note the alcohol on the label, a modest 12.5 percent. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007

Château Barrail Meyney, Bordeaux (France) 2003 ($12, Ideal Wines & Spirits): A majority of the available Bordeaux at this price level use the generic "Bordeaux" appellation, such as this one. The '03 Barrail Meyney, clearly dominated by Merlot, is soft, fleshy, and easy-drinking even now, although just two years old. It has some charry oak aromas, with plummy flavors, good depth, and ripe, soft tannins. 87 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château Haut-La Péreyre, Bordeaux (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($12, Vintage '59 Imports): It took exactly one sniff and sip of this wine to decide that this baby was going onto a wine list that I'm building for a new restaurant in my area. Remarkably generous for a $12 Bordeaux, but not at the cost of forsaking its origin for a chunky, New World fruit profile, this is a very impressive effort. Aromas of dark berries, cedar, subtle toast and minerals are all replicated in the flavors and finish, lending a seamless impression to the wine. This sets a standard that will be very tough for comparably-priced petits châteaux to match. 87 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2006

Mouton Cadet, Bordeaux (France) 2002 ($7, Caravelle Wine Selections): Mouton Cadet is the biggest-selling Bordeaux in the world, and so you can imagine how much money this generic Bordeaux has made for the Baron Philippe de Rothschild house over the years! Considering its production and the vintage, I'm amazed that it's as good as it is! Yes, the '02 Mouton Cadet, 65 percent Merlot, 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15 percent Cabernet Franc, is lighter-bodied than the other wines in the group, but it has decent concentration of tart, red fruits, is lean, cleanly made, and drinkable right now. For the price, I loved it. This delightful wine would be on my list of top $7.00 and under red wines of the world. 87 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château Saint-Sulpice, Bordeaux (France) 2002 ($9, Frederick Wildman): The '02 Saint-Sulpice has aromas of cherries and berries with an earthy, slightly vegetal note, is rather light in body, with flavors of dark plums. A wine to drink now. 86 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château Tour de Goupin, Bordeaux (France) 2002 ($10, Baron Francois Ltd.): The '02 Tour de Goupin, with red fruit and licorice aromas and flavors, also has an under ripe, vegetal note that can be found in some Bordeaux '02s. And yet the dominant presence of Merlot adds a chunky, plummy character. 86 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Jacques Lurton, Bordeaux (France) Cabernet Sauvignon “Diane” 2020 ($14):

The Lurton name is famous in Bordeaux. The recently deceased André Lurton was instrumental in carving out the Pessac-Léognan appellation from Graves. The family owns more than 20 châteaux and nephew Pierre Lurton manages Château d’Yquem, the greatest property in Sauternes. (He also managed Château Cheval Blanc in St. Emilion, another stellar estate.) Jacques, one of André’s sons, made wine around the world before taking the reins of the family business after his father died. With its fruit forward juicy plummy nature and suave texture, this Bordeaux reflects Jacques’ vast experience making New World wines. His iconoclastic side comes through in the packaging — a Bordeaux wine in a Burgundy-shaped bottle.
86 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2021

Mouton Cadet, Bordeaux (France) 2004 ($12, North Lake Wines): This classic Bordeaux blend of two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc delivers more substance and elegance than you would expect from a 'popular' brand. Its suave tannins balance the moderate fruit and tobacco flavors. This is an excellent 'everyday' wine and a good introduction to the red wines of Bordeaux. 86 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007

Bordeaux Secrets, Bordeaux AOC (France) 2015 ($30): A rigidly structured wine that represents great value from the region, and will do very well in the cellar. Tannins are dominant at present, but all the other expected elements are starting to peek through. At this price, you can get a case and try it over the next 6 years to enjoy its development. A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Monterey International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Mar 7, 2017

Les Chartrons, Bordeaux AOC (France) 2014 ($30, Drinks LLC):

Good value Bordeaux is not an oxymoron, but finding one does involve some mental gymnastics. The first order of business is accepting that the classified growths don't own the patent on quality in this important wine region. Les Chartrons bears the simple Bordeaux AOC appellation, but what's in the bottle speaks of a higher calling. This vintage is well balanced and beautifully structured, with firm tannins masking -- for the time being -- lovely aromas of cassis and blackberry. At this price, a real find. This wine was a Platinum award-winner at the 2016 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
92 Robert Whitley Jan 19, 2016

Pavillon La Tourelle, Bordeaux AOC (France) 2013 ($30):

The market for Bordeaux in the United States has been shrinking in recent years as prices for the classified-growth Chateaux have soared. To recapture the market, or even carve out a niche, U.S. consumers need more access to producers such as Pavillon La Tourelle, and Bordeaux of this ilk needs more exposure through medal-winning triumphs such as its platinum award in the 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition. This vintage exhibits a note of pepper and spice, with notes of blackberry and currant, firm but accessible tannins and beautiful balance with a long finish.
92 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

Pavillon la Tourelle, Bordeaux AOC (France) 2015 ($30):

No, affordable Bordeaux is not an oxymoron. It does exists and the Pavillon la Tourelle is an excellent example of a superb Bordeaux from a recent vintage. This wine shows the classic toughness of young Bordeaux but without bitter astringency. While it is certainly drinkable now it would benefit from another year or two in the cellar. A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 91 Robert Whitley Jun 5, 2018

Chateau Bonnet, Bordeaux Rouge (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($15, WJ Deutsch): This is exactly the sort of everyday red wine I find myself sometimes craving, especially after a steady diet of the Zins, and California Syrahs, Cabs and Merlots--all those fleshy, virile big-boy wines. I’m not complaining, I love those wines as well, but this red Bordeaux is comparatively modest and soft-spoken , offering a fresh and lively palate, elusive hints of licorice and violets, ripe but refreshingly understated fruit, and easygoing tannins. 89 Marguerite Thomas Nov 15, 2011

Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superieur (Bordeaux, France) 2006 ($15, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): This is the kind of Bordeaux that everyone loves to find because it delivers more than either the price or the appellation suggests. Château Recougne, one of the key properties of the talented Milhade family, is located near Pomerol on the right bank of Bordeaux’s Gironde River. Similar to most right bank properties, Merlot is predominant, comprising 75% of the blend, with Cabernet Franc (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon accounting for the remainder. The 2006 Recougne had a hard act to follow, coming after the excellent 2005 and performs beautifully. Not just fruity, it delivers a gracious combination of leafy, earthy notes and ripe red fruit flavors surrounded by fine tannins. Château Recougne, despite its lowly appellation, is a wine that develops beautifully with bottle age. Over the last decade, I’ve had many bottles of the 1952, which continues to show complexity, suaveness and brightness. So you can buy this one by the case and not worry that its many charms will fade. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2010

Château des Graves, Bordeaux Superieur (France) 2000 ($11, Palm Bay Imports): The 2000 Château des Graves has ripe, plummy fruit character, and is concentrated, with lots of Merlot in the blend. An easy-drinking, well made, delightful wine that is perfect for current consumption. Great value. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château La Mouliniere, Bordeaux Superieur (France) 2001 ($10, Baron Francois Ltd.): The "Superieur" in the appellation merely means that minimum alcohol content must reach 12° (as opposed to 11.5° for just the "Bordeaux" appellation). The '01 La Mouliniere has aromas and flavors of red plums and other red fruits with hints of earth and spice. It's a plump, ripe style of wine, with lots of Merlot in the blend and enough tannin to keep it around a while. 87 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Chateau de L’Abbaye de Saint Ferme, Bordeaux Superieur (France) “Les Vignes du Soir” 2002 ($10, Sovereign Wine Imports): With the dollar once again tanking relative to the euro, you might well give up on the prospect of a good $10 Bordeaux. Not so fast, though, for this bottle delivers the goods. Time will tell whether this is a one-shot-deal derived from high quality juice that got declassified into this bottling due to the poor vintage in 2002, but, in any case, this checks in with medium-bodied fruit recalling dark berries and cedar, with just a whiff of wood contributing complexity from the background. This won't keep anyone awake at night at Mouton, but if the performance were repeated in a subsequent vintage, it might do exactly that in Adelaide or Santiago. 85 Michael Franz Dec 19, 2006

Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superiéur (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($15, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): This is one of many wines that demonstrates the tremendous value to be found in the 2005 red Bordeaux. It delivers more enjoyment that its modest appellation, Bordeaux Superiéur, suggests. Meaty nuances combine with ripe fruit flavors in this silky wine. Enjoyable now, the mild tannins provide structure without intruding and suggest the wine will develop nicely over the next several years. This would be a choice if you were starting a cellar. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007

Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superiéur (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($13, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Gamey flavors attractively complement the layers of ripe fruit elements in this balanced wine. The tannins are supple and symmetrical with the fruit, which means the wine is perfect for drinking now. The price makes it hard to resist. 89. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006

Château Haut Claribes, Bordeaux Supérieur (France) 2019 ($15, Latitude Wines):

This is the top-of-the-line release from Domaines Fontana, which is located in Gensac, a tiny town midway between St.-Émilion and Bergerac. With Merlot dominating the blend, it is a medium- to full-bodied, compact wine that begins with aromas of ripe plum and licorice leading to background notes of dried herbs, tobacco and spice. Surprisingly concentrated for the price, it opens up in the glass to remind you of its Bordeaux personality. It finishes on a mild tannic note, so can be cellared for a few years. On a personal note, Gensac was the neighboring village during my decade of living in France, so I was delighted to become reacquainted with this wine that is now imported by Trader Joe’s.
90 Norm Roby Jul 5, 2022

Château Vrai Caillou, Bordeaux Supérieur (France) 2015 ($15, Elenteny Imports):

This is a lovely example of the quality one can find in 2015 red Bordeaux. Château Vrai Caillou is located in the commune of Soussac -- in the eastern reaches of the Bordeaux appellation. The rolling hills and vineyards are dotted with forested areas in this charming and pastoral part of France. Château Vrai Caillou rests on a ridge overlooking the vineyards from which they craft fine red and white wines. The 2015 Vrai Caillou is a lovely example of the richness one can find among petit château Bordeaux in 2015. Still quite youthful, it opens up with an hour’s aeration to reveal lovely blackcurrant, blackberry and plum fruits interwoven with hints of violets, herbs and earth. It is impressive for the purity of its fruit and layering of flavors. Blended from Merlot 60%, Cabernet Franc 20% and Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, the 2015 Vrai Caillou is a fine Bordeaux that can be enjoyed now or cellared for 5 to 8 years.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 27, 2019

Chateau Leroy-Beauval, Bordeaux Supérieur (France) 2018 ($25, North Berkeley Imports):

Chateau Leroy-Beauval's Bordeaux Superieur is a fair value at $25. A Merlot-dominate blend (70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon), this wine is dominated by a bouquet of blue and black fruits with a touch of currant leaf. The blue and black fruit notes follow through on the palate, transitioning to a pleasant dark chocolate finish. The wine's alcohol is touch high at 15%, but it is well integrated, while the acidity could stand to be a bit higher. Overall, this is a fine wine at a fair price, but it doesn't stand out from the crowd.
89 John McDermott Feb 27, 2024

Château Recougne, Bordeaux Supérieur (France) 2019 ($17, Vintus):

Château Recougne consistently displays the quintessential Bordeaux profile of fruit and what I like to call, “not just fruit” character. This refined mid-weight wine entices with a subtle combination of red fruits, a dash of riper black fruit, and spice, not sheer power. Mild tannins give support without being intrusive and allow for immediate enjoyment. But don’t be fooled, I’ve had a bottle of the 1952 Château Recougne at the turn of the century when it was 48 years old, and it was still thrilling. Château Recougne is a wine for the dinner table, not a sipping aperitif.
89 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2023

Château Recougne, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($16, Vintus): As always, this “simple” Bordeaux is satisfying and a great value. The herbal nuances that accompany the mixture of fruit flavors are what make it so appealing. It has the length and grace you’d expect from a more expensive bottling. Delightful now, I’d have no reservation about holding it for at least a decade because I’ve had 30 and yes, 40 year-old bottles of this wine that are stunningly good. 89 Michael Apstein May 8, 2012

Chateau de l’Abbaye de Saint Ferme, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) “Les Vignes du Soir” 2003 ($10, Sovereign Wine Imports): From one of Bordeaux's oldest wine families (they arrived in Saint Ferme in the 15th century), this wine probably isn't going to knock your socks off with depth and complexity, but there's no mistaking that satisfying Bordelais aroma. Additionally, the wine delivers that fine juxtaposition of sweet fruit and linear texture that often characterizes Bordeaux Supérieur. For ten bucks, who can resist it? 88 Marguerite Thomas Jan 16, 2007

Château La Mothe du Barry, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2006 ($12, Elite Wines Imports): A simple but satisfying red Bordeaux, made primarily with Merlot. It feels supple on the palate, and tastes genuinely true to type, with a weedy undertone that enhances the red berry fruit. All for only $12. 88 Paul Lukacs Apr 14, 2009

Château Lestrille, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($13, Wine Brokers International): Here’s another bargain priced Bordeaux that shows how the lower appellations benefited from the ripeness of the 2009 vintage. Black fruit flavor predominate in this weightier wine. Subtle tarry elements and even a mildly chewy texture add to its appeal. As expected from the vintage, the tannins are ripe, not astringent. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 7, 2012

Chateau Pey La Tour, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2007 ($18): Primarily Merlot based, this wine exhibits a classic Bordeaux profile, with red and black berry fruit undergirded by secondary notes that echo cedar and green grass. That hint of something vegetal is an attribute that many New World vintners fear, but that many Bordeaux wine drinkers enjoy. If you count yourself am0ong the latter, this fairly priced wine will definitely appeal. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 16, 2011

Château Tour D’Auron, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($16, Vintus Imports): Château Tour D’Auron is a château controlled by the well-regarded and talented Milhade family, who produces a bevy of fine wines from all their properties. This “little” wine exemplifies why Bordeaux is so popular. Supple and polished, it has the concentration of the 2009 vintage. Subtle savory nuances complement the red and black fruit notes in this harmonious wine and make it more than just a fruit bomb. It’s perfect for drinking now.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2012

Château Penin, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($15, Wine Brokers International): The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux produced ripe, fleshy red wines. Even at the lower appellation levels, such as Bordeaux Supérieur, the tannins are ripe and supple, not green, which makes these wines particularly attractive. The 2009 Château Penin is classic Bordeaux with a satisfying combination of ripe red fruit flavors and earthy nuances. Supple tannins and bright acidity add structure and balance the wine’s lushness. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 7, 2012

Château Sainte-Marie, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($13, Wine Brokers International): Relatively full and rich, with apparent oak flavors add a luxurious, almost sweet, element to the finish. Plenty of acidity keeps this fresh and balanced. It’s an attractively priced wine for drinking tonight. 86 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

Chateau de Malet Roquefort, Bordeaux Superieur AOC (France) “Comtesse de Malet Roquefort” 2020 ($13, Vineyard Brands):

Chateau de Malet Roquefort is owned by the Malet Roquefort family who have been in Saint Emilion since 1705. Their first estate was Château La Gaffelière. Overtime, the family added Château Chapelle d’Aliénor, Château Armens, and Château La Connivence, uniting them under the name of Domaines Comte de Malet Roquefort. Comtesse de Malet Roquefort is their introductory wine made from Merlot and Cabernet Franc sourced primarily from their vineyards and a portion from partners. The wine is vinified by the same winemaking team that produces all their wines including the top of the line Château La Gaffelière. Grapes are processed by parcel and fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. The pure flavors of black cherry, blackberry and plum are fresh and juicy supported by lively acidity and ripe tannins. It is a great value wine with a great pedigree that belongs on your table.
90 Rebecca Murphy Dec 27, 2022

Château La Roberterie, Bordeaux Supérieur AOC (France) “Classicus” 2019 ($15, Chateau 1590 LLC):

Wow – this is a real find at fifteen bucks. It delivers solid Bordeaux character in a “drink me now I’m ready” style. Spot on in character, it’s a blind taster’s dream. I’ll be slipping it in with some of the big boys as a ringer soon – you might be able to hear the minds being blown wherever you are when it happens. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.
94 Rich Cook Feb 9, 2021

La Croix d’Argent, Bordeaux Superieur AOP (France) 2019 ($14, Plume Ridge / Vinesse):

Some say value from Bordeaux is gone forever. Clearly, they haven’t giving this wallet friendly wine a spin. Solid regional character, rich fruit and a sturdy backbone will have you guessing that it sits at a much higher price point. Bravo! A Platinum Award Winner at the 2022 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.
94 Rich Cook Feb 8, 2022

Chateau Thieuley, Bordeaux Supérieure (Bordeaux, France) Réserve “Francis Courselle” 2001 ($12, Grape Expectations): While Chateau Thieuley's reputation was made on its white wines, this producer also turns out impressive reds. As is traditional for properties located on the right bank of the Garonne, the Courselles plant mostly Merlot, but also some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (this particular cuvée has about 80 percent Merlot, with 10 percent of each of the other varietals). This is an excellent choice for palates that gravitate towards a restrained rather than showy Bordeaux style. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jan 9, 2007

Château La Rame, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux (Bordeaux, France) “La Charmille” 2009 ($20, Neal Rosenthal):

Cadillac, an appellation best known for sweet wines, also produces a small amount of red, including this one that consumers should flock to. To remind consumers the wines come from Bordeaux, the Cadillac appellation along with three neighboring ones, Blaye, Francs, and Castillon, have joined forces, lobbied for and won approval of, an umbrella appellation now known as Côtes de Bordeaux. A blend of two-thirds Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, a “not just fruit” character harmonizes with the plump, but not over ripe, black fruit you’d expect from the exceptional 2009 vintage. This is not a “fruit bomb,” but rather a wonderful expression of Bordeaux at an equally appealing price. Supple tannins lend structure, but since they don’t intrude, it’s a pleasure to drink it now.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Château Biac, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux AOC (France) “B de Biac” 2015 ($30, MISA Imports):

Now is the time to enjoy this Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend from Château Biac owned by the Asseily family. It shows alluring aromas of ripe black fruits with notes of dark chocolate and baking spices. In the mouth the wine is smooth and lush with flavors of ripe blackberries and plums with savory notes, beautifully integrated with smooth tannins. Enjoy it with a grilled steak or mushroom ragout. It is from the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, which is a thin strip of land a little more than 37 miles long and 3 miles on the right bank of the Garonne River. I’ve had the privilege of visiting this amazing property twice. As I wrote in a column for WineReviewOnline.com in 2017, their property is a unique site with diverse soils of gravel, clay-limestone, silt and sand that lay upon a layer of chalk. As matriarch Youmna Assiley explained, “On a very small estate, we have the soils of both the Right and Left Bank.” In addition to the unique soils, the vineyard’s aspect and slope allow the air to flow through the vines and along with the presence of Garonne River help to moderate temperatures, providing frost protection.
96 Rebecca Murphy Oct 26, 2021

A family-run estate since 1769, Chateau Mazeris produces wines that express terroir over trendiness. The lovely 2005 vintage is plenty concentrated, but it is also refreshing (perhaps in part due to its relatively modest 13.5% alcohol content). It is deeply colored, with elements of cassis and juicy plums. If it came from an appellation with a more renowned pedigree, the wine would be way, way more expensive. Considering its youth, it is drinking fine already, but this wine would be fun to taste over a period of ten or so years.

Chateau Mazeris, Canon-Fronsac (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($17, Dreyfus Ashby): I tasted the excellent '05 from Mazeris at the winery recently, but it is this lovely '03 that is currently available here in the U.S. Good thing, too, because it must rank as one of the greatest steals of modern times in quality Bordeaux. This richly layered, supple vintage of Mazeris exhibits the fleshy ripeness and supple tannin of the very warm 2003 vintage. Merlot is the dominant element in the blend, delivering notes of plum, red currant and blackberry jam. 90 Robert Whitley Dec 16, 2008

Château Moulin Pey-Labrie, Canon-Fronsac (Bordeaux, France) 2000 ($30, Louis Dressner Selections): Wines from the 'lesser' or more obscure appellations within Bordeaux offer great value, especially from stellar vintages, such as 2000. Canon-Fronsac is a small area adjacent to St. Emilion where Merlot predominates. In 2000, Château Moulin Pey-Labrie made a big, succulent wine that retains the charm and structure of Bordeaux that is just starting to show the nuances of maturity. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006

Château German, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux (France) 2020 ($30):

Bordering Saint-Émilion, Castillon enjoys the same growing conditions and sandy, gravelly soils. But lacking the status of its neighbor, Castillon wines are less expensive and worth exploring for great values in good vintages like 2020. Chateau German’s 2020 is made from 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet and 10% Cabernet Franc. Its aromas slowly open to show blackberry and currant with a touch of cedar. Medium bodied, its solid dark fruit along with floral and herbal flavors are supported by youthful, velvety tannin and light oak. Balanced and taut, it captures all the right stuff that people look for in Right Bank wines. It will get even better with short term cellaring.
92 Norm Roby Mar 26, 2024

Château De La Pierre Levée, Côtes De Bordeaux AOC (France) “Castillon” 2018 ($25):

There’s value to be had in Bordeaux – you just need to know where to look. This sub-region doesn’t bring the hefty price tags that the classified growth players flaunt, but that’s good news for us. There is solid Bordeaux character here, with all of the earthy notes hitting clearly and bringing the fruit interplay that you would expect to pay a lot more for. Bravo! A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Monterey International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Mar 23, 2021

Château Guerry, Côtes de Bourg (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($27, Cape Cod Wholesale Wine & Spirits): Côtes de Bourg, a small, less well-known appellation across the Gironde Estuary from the Médoc, can be a place to find values in Bordeaux when the quality of the winemaking exceeds the prestige of the appellation. Such is the case with the 2003 Château Guerry. From the engaging bouquet, you immediately sense this wine will deliver enjoyment. The balance of fruit and mineral flavors coupled with its length confirms that first impression. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006

Chateau Rousselle, Côtes de Bourg (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($23, Serge Dore Selections): A modern style Bordeaux from the famously ultra-ripe 2003 vintage, this is a soft, user-friendly wine. The addition of about fifty percent Merlot adds further plumpness to the sturdier Cabernet. It's still youthful, but this wine is absolutely ready to drink now. 89 Marguerite Thomas Mar 6, 2007

Château Barrié, Côtes de Bourg (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($12, ExCellars): The less prestigious red wines from the great 2005 vintage in Bordeaux are just starting to arrive on our shores. They should not be missed. The beauty of this vintage is the quality of the wines at all price levels, especially from less well-known areas. The Côtes de Bourg is one of those small, relatively obscure areas across the Gironde estuary from the more famous Médoc. It produces a bevy of well-priced wines. The ripe plumy forward fruit character is reminiscent of the best in California, but its moderate weight and elegance (the signature of Bordeaux) suggests France as its source. A forward style of Bordeaux, it will have great appeal to both New and Old World palates. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2007

Château Sauman, Côtes de Bourg (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($11, ExCellars): Perhaps even slightly more polished and silky than the Château Barrié also reviewed here, this shows its higher percentage of Merlot in the blend. The wine has a seductive, smoky, earthy element to it that lends added interest. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2007

Château Tour du Moulin, Fronsac (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($29, Vintage '59 Imports):

A delicious Bordeaux in the classic style (as opposed to the more overtly ripe and fruity nouveau style), this offers complex aromas and flavors on a foundation of restrained fruit. The core notes of blackberries and black plums are ripe and clean but not overtly sweet, which leaves room for nice accent notes of autumn leaves, cedar, and minerals. Clean but still complex, this is a very promising partner for ageing, though it can be enjoyed now with relatively robust foods such as roasted or braised beef. 90 Michael Franz Jul 21, 2009

Château Tour du Moulin, Fronsac (Bordeaux, France) 2006 ($26, Vintage ’59 Imports):

I tasted this wine immediately after returning from a week of tasting in Bordeaux’s Right Bank appellations, and thus had plenty of context for evaluating it. There’s no question that it is an impressive over-achiever for quality and value, with excellent structural balance. The blend is 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and it shows tender but well defined dark berry fruit, along with very subtle wood notes and a lovely minerality in the finish. 90 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2010

Château La Cornelle, Fronsac (Bordeaux, France) 2000 ($13, Boston Wine Co.): I was amazed to find a 2000 Fronsac for $13, because most Bordeaux from this district on the Right Bank retail for over $20. The '00 La Cornelle, 60 percent Merlot, 30 percent Cabernet Franc, and 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, shows good concentration of tart black currants, with surprising depth for a $13 wine, It's a lean, sleek, classically styled Bordeaux that needs some time to develop. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château Haut Selve, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2019 ($27):

An ancient 112 acre property brought back to life by the Lesgourgues family, Haut Selve is located close to Chateau Haut Brion in Graves. 1996 was the first vintage under new ownership. The 2019, a blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, follows on the heels of the successful 2018. Aged for 12 months in French oak, 33% new, the 2019 is rich and built to last. Deep garnet and offering ripe dark fruit, it displays the herbal and earthy notes typical of Graves reds. Rich and compact on the palate with plum and black cherry fruit combined with oak spice and dusty tannins, it will reward cellaring and begin to come together in 3 to 4 years.
92 Norm Roby Aug 15, 2023

Terre Blanche, Graves AOC, Bordeaux (France) 2018 ($22):

Who says Bordeaux is the rich man’s drink? Believe it or not, there really is decent Bordeaux just about anyone can afford. I give you the 2018 Terre Blanche from the Graves district. This vintage shows an herbal nose with whiffs of red fruit and spice. The palate is soft and approachable, with excellent persistence in the finish. A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
92 Robert Whitley Sep 22, 2020

Château Cantemerle, Haut-Medoc (Bordeaux) 2008 ($44): The 2008 Bordeaux will always be lost in the shadows of the 2009 and 2010s, but they still demand serious consideration because of their classic proportions. Château Cantemerle has made a beautiful wine infused with notes of cedar intertwined with red and black fruit surrounded by sweet suave tannins. This is very Bordeaux--not aggressive or overblown. It’s remarkably easy to drink at this stage, but I suspect it will close up over the next several years before the complexity reemerges in a decade or so. So enjoy it now--or be prepared to cellar it.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2013

Chateau Lanessan, Haut-Medoc (Bordeaux, France) “Les Calèches de Lannessan” 2000 ($15, Diageo Chateau & Estates): Enticing aromas of earth, plums, cedar, and chocolate along with a distinct tannic structure and a layered finish are among the attractions of this affordably priced Bordeaux. 89 Marguerite Thomas Mar 6, 2007

Château Cambon La Pelouse, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($30, Monsieur Touton Selection):

The Appellation d’Origine Controllé Haut Médoc in France’s Bordeaux region is located on the left bank of the Gironde, and is known for its complex and elegant red wines such as this tasty blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. 2016 was an unusual year in Médoc characterized by an extremely wet winter and a hot, dry summer. In the end, the nail-biting season proved a boon for vineyards such as Cambon La Pelouse’s with its rocky, sandy soil. The 2016 vintage wine is a deeply colored, classic, savory melt-in-your-mouth Bordeaux, and an excellent choice to accompany steak as well as beef or lamb stews and roasts.
94 Marguerite Thomas Oct 5, 2021

Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($35):

Château Cantemerle has long been one of the best values among classified growth Bordeaux. Even in lighter vintages, Cantemerle is consistently balanced and elegant in style. The 2015 harvest was a ripe vintage and the best wines show opulent fruit with a fine balance of acid and tannin. The Cantemerle shows a generous claret style with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of cedar, herbs and toasty oak. The flavors are sleek, elegant and supple, with the black fruits interwoven with the herb and spice tones. All the elements of the wine are in harmony and the 2015 Cantemerle will provide delicious drinking for the next 10 to 20 years. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
94 Wayne Belding Feb 6, 2018

Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($55):

Château Cantemerle lies just south of the Margaux appellation, near the Gironde estuary. It is classified as a Fifth Growth in the 1855 classification of Bordeaux and has a wine growing history of at least 650 years. Cantemerle today regularly offers superb value reds that reflect the character of the Haut-Médoc vineyards. The 2018 vintage was a ripe, high-quality harvest and the best wines show a fine balance of rich fruit, refreshing acidity and supple tannins. The 2018 Cantemerle offers up blackcurrant and blackberry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of cocoa, cedar, herbs and toasty oak. The flavors are very Margaux-like with their elegance and supple texture. The black fruits are interwoven with the herb, smoke, cocoa and spice tones. The 2018 Cantemerle is a finely balanced red Bordeaux that will provide delicious drinking for the next decade and beyond.
93 Wayne Belding Dec 7, 2021

Château Cap L’Ousteau, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) "Grande Réserve" 2015 ($70):

From the prestigious Haut-Médoc section of Bordeaux, Château Cap L’Ousteau’s Grande Réserve is dense, darkly colored, and delectable. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the wine still shows reasonably good structure, but now, rather than later, is probably a good time to drink it. It should be delicious with a simple steak, and I also recently enjoyed it with a roast chicken.
93 Marguerite Thomas Apr 26, 2022

Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2014 ($40):

A wine from a Chateau listed in famous 1855 Classification of Bordeaux -- a so-called Classified Bordeaux -- for $40 is a rarity. Especially when it’s not the Chateau’s “second” wine, but actually their “grand vin.” Château La Lagune has always been under-rated, delivering more than its price suggested. Their 2014 is no exception. Smooth and delectable, it delivers that alluring “not just fruit” character without being flashy. Suavely textured, it’s easy to taste now. But fine tannins and its harmony means it will evolve gracefully over the next decade or two. If you’re just starting a cellar, this is a Bordeaux to buy by the case. Even if you already have a cellar, I’d find room in it for a few bottles.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Château La Tour Carnet, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2017 ($51):

Château La Tour Carnet has an 8+ century history of producing fine wine. Tucked in behind St. Julien, La Tour Carnet was classified as a Fourth Growth in the 1855 classification of the Médoc. Under the direction of Bernard Magrez in recent vintages, it has become a best buy for those seeking truly fine claret on a budget. The 2017 is lovely example of Haut-Médoc style. Ripe blackcurrant, black cherry and plum fruits are interwoven with hints of vanilla and baking spices plus subtleties of tobacco, olive and earth. On the palate, the wine is impressive for its purity of fruit and layering of fruit, herb, spice, earth and oak flavors. This fine Bordeaux has the potential to cellar well for another 12 to 15 years and more.
93 Wayne Belding Jan 5, 2021

Château Belgrave, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($47):

Château Belgrave has a long history of producing fine wine. Tucked in behind St. Julien, Château Coutenceau, as it was then known, was classified as a Fifth Growth in the 1855 classification of the Médoc. The estate has been known as Belgrave for well over a century and its vineyards have deep gravelly soils, much like those of the adjacent St. Julien. Under the management of Dourthe in recent vintages, it has become a best buy for those seeking truly fine claret on a budget. The 2020 is lovely example of Haut-Médoc style. It shows wonderfully pure blackcurrant, black cherry and plum fruits interwoven with hints of herbs, vanilla and baking spices plus subtleties of tobacco, olive and earth. On the palate, the wine is impressive for its purity of fruit and layering of fruit, herb, spice, earth and oak flavors. This fine Haut-Médoc is enjoyable even now in the forward 2020 vintage, but will cellar well for another 15 to 20 years.
92 Wayne Belding Feb 6, 2024

Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($40):

Château Cantemerle has a winemaking history stretching back some six and a half centuries. It is classified as a Fifth Growth in the legendary 1855 classification of Bordeaux. Cantemerle regularly offers superb value reds that reflect the character of the Haut-Médoc vineyards. The 2016 harvest was a high-quality harvest and the best wines show a fine balance of rich fruit, refreshing acidity and supple tannins. The 2016 Cantemerle shows a classic claret style with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of cedar, herbs and toasty oak. The flavors are elegant and supple, with the black fruits interwoven with the herb, smoke and spice tones. The 2016 Cantemerle is a finely balanced red Bordeaux that will provide delicious drinking for the next decade.
92 Wayne Belding Nov 5, 2019

Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($49):

Château Cantemerle, a property included as a 5th growth in the famed 1855 Médoc Classification, is always a great value. In a stellar year, such as 2010, it’s even a better buy. The vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (40%) with the remaining acreage divided evenly between Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Since the blend usually reflects what’s planted, the fleshiness of the 2010 may represent the high proportion of Merlot and Petit Verdot. A vivid freshness, a welcome characteristic of the 2010 vintage, balances its lush ripeness. With time in the glass, a haunting, dense minerality appears in this suave, beautifully textured wine. Easy to enjoy now, it will, like many grand Bordeaux, “close up” in the next couple of years, so pop the cork soon or plan to cellar it for a decade.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 17, 2013

Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($26):

2018 was a ripe vintage for Bordeaux with many wines just arriving in the US market. This is a fine harvest throughout Bordeaux. While prices for the most famous Bordeaux estates remain high, those seeking better value in claret can look to the Haut-Médoc appellation. The commune of Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne adjoins St. Éstephe to the north and is included in the Haut-Médoc. Château Coufran is a noted estate in the commune and Coufran’s 2018 red is a splendid example of the estate’s potential. Coufran’s vineyards average 50 years of age and are planted on a subtle rise overlooking the Gironde estuary. There is more clay in the soil here and Merlot is widely planted to take advantage of that characteristic. The 2018 Château Coufran is rich with blackberry, blackcurrant and red cherry fruits underscored by hints of violet, cocoa, herbs, vanilla and baking spices. It is an exemplary claret that expresses the richness and depth of the vintage with its beautiful purity of fruit and complex layering of flavors. This is a wine you can enjoy now or cellar for another 10+ years.
92 Wayne Belding Jul 13, 2021

Barons de Rothschild, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) “Edmond Benjamin” 2003 ($30, Royal Wine Company): Beautifully balanced, this wine shows the class of well-made Bordeaux. It's plush (40% Merlot speaking) but retains structure (60% Cabernet Sauvignon) without hardness. A hint of earthiness adds intrigue. They have resisted the temptation to overwork and over-extract this wine from a modest, not grand, appellation. It's a difficult balance to achieve, especially at this price level. The result is an extraordinarily enjoyable wine for current consumption. By the way, it's Kosher. 91 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2007

Château Aney, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($35, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):

This classic Haut-Medoc boasts mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with a perfect balance of power and finesse. The blackcurrant, black cherries, baking spices, and herbaceousness notes play off each other in waves, leading to a long, lifted finish with a desirable hint of glossy oak flavors. The acidity is just right, letting the fruit and tannin come to the forefront. The winery, Château Aney, was sold to Clément Fayat, and its production is now used to "flesh out" Fayat's second wine. So drink this while you can! For the sake of completeness, the blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7% Cab Franc and 3% Petit Verdot.
91 Miranda Franco Jan 16, 2024

Château Citran, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($25):

2020 was a ripe vintage for Bordeaux with many wines just arriving in the US market. This is a fine harvest throughout Bordeaux. While prices for the most famous Bordeaux estates remain high, those seeking better value in claret can look to the Haut-Médoc appellation. The commune of Avensan lies just west of Soussans and the Margaux appellation. Château Citran is a noted estate in the commune and this 2020 red is a splendid example of the estate’s potential. Citran’s vineyards average 25 years of age and are planted on a variety of clay, sand, chalk and gravel soils. Much of the fruit for their grand vin comes from the deeper, gravelly soils near the Château. The 2020 Château Citran is rich with blackberry, blackcurrant and red cherry fruits underscored by hints of violet, cocoa, herbs, vanilla and baking spices. It is an exemplary claret that expresses the richness and depth of the vintage with its beautiful purity of fruit and complex layering of flavors. This is a wine you can enjoy now or cellar for another 8 to 10 years.
91 Wayne Belding Jun 13, 2023

Château Bel Air, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2000 ($11, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines): Château Bel Air is another Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux from the Haut-Médoc, but this one lives up to its classification and then some! Granted that it is a superior vintage (2000) than the pricier Sénéjac (2001), but it's inherently a better made wine. Bel Air has long been one of my favorite affordable Bordeaux wines-similar to the generic Mouton Cadet in that it seldom disappoints. And at $11, it's a steal! The '00 Bel Air has classic lead pencil and cassis aromas along with concentrated, plummy fruit flavors. Quite rich for this price level, and ready to drink. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($30, Multiple Importers):

Château Cantemerle has a winemaking history stretching back some 650 years and is classified as a Fifth Growth in the legendary 1855 classification of Bordeaux. Cantemerle has offered a number of superb value reds in recent vintages. The 2012 harvest was a lighter-style vintage and the best wines show a fine balance of fruit and tannin. The 2012 Cantemerle shows a classic claret style with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of cedar, green herbs, vanilla and subtle spice. The flavors are elegant and supple, with the black fruits interwoven with the herb and spice tones. All the elements of the wine are in harmony and the 2012 Cantemerle will provide delicious drinking for the next decade.
90 Wayne Belding Mar 10, 2015

Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2014 ($18):

Château Coufran, an oddity on the Left Bank because of its high proportion of Merlot, combines a leafy earthy component with fine tannins in their 2014. It’s a steal. And just because Coufran is not a “classified growth” (that is, it was not classified as Grand Cru Classé in 1855) do not dismiss its ability to develop with age. I recently had a bottle of the 1982 Coufran, which was wonderfully fresh and complex.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($24):

Château Coufran, though not included in the rarefied Médoc Classification of 1855, consistently makes splendid wines and sells them at reasonable prices. Their lush, approachable wines are a good place to start for those interested in learning about Bordeaux. For us Bordeaux lovers, seeing Château Coufran on a wine list is a welcome sight. Château Coufran’s focus on Merlot, more than 75 percent of the blend, is unusual for the Médoc and helps explain its popularity. Though plush, the 2010 Coufran has plenty of structure and enlivening freshness. Drink over the next couple of years with a steak or cellar it for a decade. From my experience with Coufran, they wines from top vintages, such as 2010, develop marvelously.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 24, 2013

Château Larose Perganson, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) Cru Bourgeois 2016 ($34, Casa Bruno):

While Château Larose Perganso was a new name to me, it turns out the Château is owned and run by the same company that makes Château Larose-Trintaudon and Chateau Arnaud, both well-known, reliable names. This 2016 is made from equal parts of Cabernet and Merlot with 6% Petit Verdot. Rich, dark garnet in color, it offers up youthful aromas of plums, herbs and oak spice. Medium bodied, it is balanced with some tannin evident in the flavors and finish. With mocha and graphite as tertiary flavors, it reminds you it is Bordeaux. This should keep well for 5 years or so. The 2008 was also tasted and showed its age in a smooth, balanced wood dominated way.
90 Norm Roby Oct 19, 2021

Château d'Arcins, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2002 ($18, Maison Nicolas): Château d'Arcins has its "Cru Bourgeois" classification (a step below the 1855 Classified Growths) on its label, and is the most expensive wine in this group. The '02 d'Arcins, the most dense, biggest wine in the tasting, is plump, with concentrated berry and cassis fruit character. It is spicy, with rather firm tannins, and is more modern and international in style than the others. A substantial crowd pleaser. 88 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château de Taillan, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2011 ($21): This property, classified as a Cru Bourgeois, a category that accounts for less than 5 percent of all the properties in Bordeaux, reinforces the idea that Bordeaux is, indeed, the place for value-packed red wines. Less weighty and fruit-focused than California Merlot, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has a beguiling combination of fruitiness and earthiness supported by firm, but not aggressive, structure and uplifting acidity. It’s easy to recommend for drinking this fall with beef. Another bargain whose quality vastly exceeds its price.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Château Larose-Trintaudon, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2000 ($16, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines): Larose-Trintaudon, another Cru Bourgeois classified Bordeaux, makes more wine than any other wine estate in the Haut-Médoc, and is widely available. Like most Haut-Médoc wines, it is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The 2000 Larose-Trintaudon has dark fruit aromas and flavors, is quite tannic, and cries for a piece of hard cheese, such as Cheddar or Comté. Give it two years. 88 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château Lestage Simon, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($20, Advantage International): A Cru Bourgeois, which is a classification level just under the Cru Classé, Château Lestage Simon is an excellent example of what Bordeaux does very well. It balances plenty lush fruit flavors (a predominance of Merlot speaking) with hints of savory notes and a lovely austerity. Open it a few hours before you plan to drink it with a succulent steak or leave it in the cellar for a couple of years to allow the tannins to mellow. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 11, 2014

Barons Edmond & Benjamin de Rothschild, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($35): This typical Bordeaux blend--Cabernet Sauvignon, 60%, and the remainder Merlot--from a great vintage delivers an engaging combination of tobacco, herbs, black currant fruit. With slightly sticky tannins, unusual for the 2005 vintage, this is a serious, food-oriented wine, ideal for leg of lamb or beef stew. It's another good wine that happens to be kosher, but which is worth recommending even if it weren't. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008

Chateau d’Arcins, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($20, Cazanove-Opici): Unlike many of its brethren, this user-friendly Bordeaux is ready for drinking now. It's quiet and refined, with hints of leather, blueberries, and a slight mintiness. It has a medium body and soft tannins. I'm not the only one singing its praises: the chain of Whole Foods markets listed it as one of their Top Ten Wines for the Holidays in 2006. 87 Marguerite Thomas Jan 9, 2007

Château Sénéjac, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2001 ($17, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines): Château Sénéjac has attained the "Cru Bourgeois" classification, and therefore, our expectations should be higher here than for most of the other wines in the tasting. The '01 Sénéjac is very dark in color, with aromas and flavors of oak, classic Bordeaux cigar box, and sweaty saddle. It is a substantial wine, but a bit too oaky and tannic, not what I'm looking for in an under $20 Bordeaux. 86 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Chateau Malescasse, Haut-Medoc AOC (Bordeaux, France) Cru Bourgeois 2016 ($22):

With all the hype surrounding the big houses in Bordeaux it’s easy to overlook some of the beautiful wines that are on the much more affordable side of the selection. Here’s a ready-to-drink blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot that shows the neighborhood well, with blackberry, dried herbs, supple tannins and a fully integrated finish. That said, it will take some aging as well -- a decade isn’t out of the question.
92 Rich Cook Feb 18, 2020

Chateau Malescasse, Haut-Medoc AOC (Bordeaux, France) Cru Bourgeois 2016 ($22):

Given current prices for classified-growth Bordeaux, it makes sense to seek out good Bordeaux that doesn’t come with all that expensive cachet! Chateau Malescasse is a Left Bank Cru Bourgeois beauty that costs less than $25, and it’s worth every penny and then some. This vintage offers classic aromas of blackberry and black currant, firm tannins and impressive palate weight. A note of graphite and cedar complete the puzzle. Beautifully crafted and more beautifully priced.
90 Robert Whitley Feb 11, 2020

Chateau Les Cruzelles, Lalande de Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2019 ($41, Monsièur Touton Selection):

This wine was made during the last year of winemaker and Chateau-owner Denis Durantou's life. He is famous for the excellent wine he produced at Clos L'Eglise in Pomerol, but he also bought lesser known vineyards and upgraded the farming and winemaking to produce some world-class value in Lalande-de-Pomerol, here at Les Cruzelles as well as at Le Chanade. I understand that his daughters have taken over daily operations and winemaking duties. This is a blend of mostly Merlot with 20% Cabernet Franc which was aged in about 1/3 new oak. Intense black raspberry aromas subsume the oak at this point in time. I have had younger bottles closer to release where the plush fruit intensity might lull one into thinking that this was a plump, early drinking example showcasing the generosity of the 2019 vintage. With another year of bottle age this is more overt with its inherent structure. Its combination of dark, plush fruit and superb structure declare this an excellently balanced wine which is both accessible now and which should age well for decades.
92 Andrew Holod Feb 27, 2024

Chateau de Bel Air, Lalande de Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($25, Cannon Wines Limited): Bel Air is a common name among Bordeaux chateaux, and this property is often confused with Chateau Bel Air of Saint-Emilion. There's a huge difference, however, in the price. Not such a great difference in terms of quality. The '05 Chateau de Bel Air is a cellar-worthy beauty from the excellent '05 vintage, and the price is easy on the wallet for those who like to purchase a case or so and lay down a few of the bottles for future enjoyment. The still very tight '05 exhibits aromas of currant, black cherry and blackberry, with notes of cedar pencil and minerals, and firm grape tannins for support. Though you can enjoy this wine tonight, it will be best in three to five years. 90 Robert Whitley Dec 16, 2008

Château de Bel-Air, Lalande de Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2006 ($24, Canon Wines): Across a tiny stream from Pomerol is Lalande de Pomerol, an appellation that uses the same blend of grapes--predominately Merlot and Cabernet Franc--to produce wines styled similarly to those of its more famous neighbor. The 2006 Château de Bel-Air conveys an intriguing 'not just fruit' quality of attractive earthy and gamey elements to balance its ripe black fruit flavors. Firm, but fine, tannins lend support and backbone to this well-balanced wine. This is no light-weight Bordeaux for current drinking, but is more suited for five or so years in the cellar. 90 Michael Apstein May 5, 2009

Château Sergant, Lalande de Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($37, Vintus): Château Sergant is another fine estate under the Milhade umbrella.

Slightly bigger and more robust than Château Tour D’Auron (also reviewed this week), it maintains the signature Milhade class. Befitting a more prestigious appellation, it has more going on and even some engaging gamey elements. It’s very easy to recommend for current consumption. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2012

Château Siaurac, LaLande de Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($25): A pretty, though somewhat light-bodied right bank Bordeaux from an excellent vintage, this fairly-priced wine is worth drinking while waiting for more substantial (and more expensive) 2005 Bordeaux to mature. It's marked by bright fruit flavors with a characteristically weedy undertone, and while not especially complex, does taste very enjoyable. 88 Paul Lukacs Dec 16, 2008

Chateau Tournefeuille, Lalande de Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($20): Tournefeuille is another of those exceptional producers from one of the less famous satellite appellations of Bordeaux, in this case Lalande de Pomerol. This vintage is a classic Right Bank blend of 70 percent Merlot and 30 percent Cabernet Franc. Shy of bouquet until the wine opened with a bit of air (I recommend decanting), lovely notes of spice and leather complemented the deep blackberry, currant and cherry aromas on the palate. A leafy herbal note no doubt came from the generous mix of Cab Franc. This vintage is beautifully balanced and structured, with firm tannins that softened in the glass. Enjoyable now, but look for it to continue to improve over the next five to seven years. 88 Robert Whitley Jan 13, 2009

Château Ducluzeau, Listrac - Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($27):

Château Ducluzeau is a sleeper, in part, because the production is small, about 5,000 bottles annually. The 2015 is an extraordinary value, well worth the search. Owned by Bruno Borie’s mother (he’s the managing director of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou), it is uncommonly suave for a wine from Listrac. It’s a Merlot-heavy (85%) blend, which likely explains at least part of its fleshy smoothness. It's fruit-forward without being fruity. And indeed, as it sits in the glass, gorgeous savory nuances emerge. Its polished tannins allow you to drink it now, though I suspect given the family’s reputation for fabulous wine, it will evolve beautifully over the next decade. Do not miss this bargain.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2019

Château Fonreaud, Listrac-Medoc (Bordeaux, France) 2019 ($20):

The 2019 vintage in Bordeaux was truly an exception in that it yielded quality wines in every corner of the vast region. Consequently, lesser-known AOCs like Listrac are good bets for finding deals. Part of the Chanfreau group which also owns Chateau Lestage, Fonreaud has been modernized and is now a chateau to follow. The 2019 is a typical blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot & 4% Petit Verdot, and the final wine was aged for 12 months in 30% new oak. Once in the glass, this wine captures blackberry fruit with obvious herbaceous and light oak toasty aromatics. The palate is solid with some tannins, and the flavors show black currants, dried herbs, and a touch of oak spice. Firm with good fruit, it will reward aging for another year or two and should drink well 4 to 5 years afterwards.
91 Norm Roby Jun 27, 2023

Château Clarke, Listrac-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($46):

2016 was a ripe vintage for Bordeaux with many fine wines now available on the market. Prices for wines from the most famous Bordeaux estates are formidable, indeed. Those seeking better value in claret often look to the village of Listrac-Médoc. Listrac lies between St. Julien and Margaux and is a bit further inland from the river. There is more clay in the soil here and Merlot is widely planted to take advantage of that characteristic. The best wines have a lot of charm and character -- and prices that are much friendlier than those of neighboring villages. The 2016 Château Clarke is rich with blackberry, blackcurrant and red cherry fruits underscored by hints of violets, tobacco, smoke, vanilla and baking spices. It is an exemplary claret that expresses the richness and depth of the vintage with its beautiful purity of fruit and complex layering of flavors. This is a wine you can enjoy now or cellar for another 15 or more years. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 30%, Merlot 70%.
92 Wayne Belding Feb 4, 2020

Hard to find a better Bordeaux bargain. This medium-bodied wine has both power and suppleness, with hints of cinnamon and star anise, plus vanilla and blackberries, all of it long on the palate. Decant and enjoy it now or keep the wine for many, many years -- it will only get better with age.

Château Palmer, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 1983 ($175, Frederick Wildman and Sons): The Margaux district was the star of the 1983 vintage in Bordeaux. And so it came as no surprise that the '83 Château Palmer stood out like a beacon in another-wise fairly ordinary group of 1983 Bordeaux. It has a slight garnet hue around its rim, with glorious aromas of lead pencil and cedar, wonderful depth, ripe cassis flavors with hints of licorice, and a lengthy finish which is pure grace. A magnificent 1983, vying with Château Margaux as best of the vintage. The 1983 Château Palmer is available upon special request. Your retail merchant can obtain them for you. The U.S. contact for Château Palmer, should you have any difficulty finding them, is Jean-louis Carbonnier, e-mail address: j-lc@mindspring.com. 97 Ed McCarthy Nov 22, 2005

Chateau Brane-Cantenac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($110, Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines):

Normally, Brane-Cantenac puts only about one-third of its total production into its first wine--the grand vin--with the remainder going into a second and third label. But 2005 was such a phenomenal year that about half their production made the cut. As good as their 2004 is (also reviewed this week), the 2005 is even better. The tannins are silkier, the core of black fruit spiced with earthy flavors is deeper, and the whole package glossier and longer. Still tightly wound, give it a decade at least in the cellar to allow all its glories to unfold.

Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($90):

Château Brane-Cantenac, in the Margaux appellation, rests on one of the highest gravel mounds in the appellation. The deep gravel soils around the Château provide some of the best terroir in Margaux. It was designated as a Second Growth in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification and, prior to phylloxera, was regarded by some as the top Second Growth in the market. Like many chateaux, Brane-Cantenac endured challenging economic times due to phylloxera, poor vintages, the Great Depression and two World Wars. Even in the post-WW2 era, Brane Cantenac was often considered an under-performing estate. When Henri Lurton began managing the estate in 1992, he started a comprehensive plan of replanting and modernization. Those plans have succeeded. Brane-Cantenac has regained its quality focus and the 2020 Grand Vin lives up to its lofty designation. This is a lovely example of Margaux style. Ripe blackcurrant, blackberry, red cherry and plum fruits are laced with hints of violets, smoke, vanilla and baking spices plus subtle tones of herbs and earth. On the palate, it is impressive for the purity of its fruit plus its sleek and silky texture. The 2020 Brane-Cantenac is an exemplary Margaux that will begin to show its best in another 5 to 10 years and will cellar well for 20 years beyond that.
95 Wayne Belding Dec 19, 2023

Château d’Issan, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($75, Diageo Chateau & Estate): Since Emmanuel Cruz took charge of this estate in 1998, the quality has taken a giant step forward. The 2005 Château d'Issan reminds me of one of the great wines from Margaux from the past, with its mineral-like qualities atop the quintessential Margaux velvetiness. The supple, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity lend structure to the wine's lush, ripe, black fruit-like qualities. Hard to resist now, it will evolve beautifully over the next two decades and reward those who opt to cellar this gem. 95 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008

Château Giscours, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($80):

Château Giscours has become one of my favorite Margaux wines in recent vintages. Designated as a Third Growth in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, Giscours, like many Bordeaux estates, suffered from poor economic times and neglect in the mid-20th century. Now under new management, it has regained its form and has quietly produced very high quality and fine value Margaux for the last 20 years. The 2020 is a lovely example of Giscours style. Luscious blackcurrant, cherry and plum fruits are interwoven with hints of tobacco, violets, vanilla and baking spices plus subtle tones of herbs and earth. It shows the classic silky elegance of Margaux and is impressive for the depth of its fruit and layering of flavors. The 2020 Giscours is a fine Bordeaux that can be enjoyed now or cellared for 20 years.
95 Wayne Belding Feb 13, 2024

Château Lascombes, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2017 ($100):

Château Lascombes, in the Margaux appellation, was designated as a Second Growth in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification and thus has a long history of fine wine production. Like many chateaux, Lascombes endured some challenging economic times in the post-WWII era. In recent decades, however, Lascombes has regained its quality focus and the 2017 Lascombes lives up to its lofty designation. This is a lovely example of Margaux style. Ripe blackcurrant, black cherry and plum fruits are interwoven with hints of vanilla, violets, cedar, smoke and baking spices plus subtle tones of herbs and earth. On the palate, it is impressive for the purity of its fruit and layering of complex flavors. The 2017 Lascombes, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%), Merlot (40%) and Petit Verdot (3%) is a fine Bordeaux that will begin to show its best in another five years and will cellar well for two decades beyond that.
95 Wayne Belding Dec 8, 2020

Château Marquis de Terme, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($53): Given the current world wide demand and stratospheric prices of the classified growths from Bordeaux, it’s not surprising not all but the super rich overlook this category of wine. But that would be a mistake because there remain properties overcoming lousy reputations whose prices have yet to catch with their newly found quality. Château Marquis de Terme, classified as a fourth growth in the Médoc Classification of 1855, is one such property. The owners brought on a new winemaker and estate manager, Ludovic David, in 2009 with the intention of raising the quality of the wine. He’s done just that. The 2010 is perfectly stunning and dramatically underpriced in today’s Bordeaux market. The 2010 has the dark mineral-like density of great Margaux coupled with the suave texture characteristic of that appellation. Great length and a floral component just add allure. An amazing freshness and vivacity keeps you coming back for more.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Château Prieuré Lichine, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($75):

The 2010 Château Prieuré-Lichine is an exceptional vintage and performs well above its station as a 4th Growth in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. This Margaux is a blend of 65 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 % Merlot and 5 % Petit Verdot, and it unfolds beautifully with terrific notes recalling black plums and currants framed by a litany of savory accents — tobacco, leather, spice, turned earth, and bay leaf. Plenty of tannic grip and acidity keeps the fruit structured as the tertiary notes lead to a soft, savory finish. This is in a perfect drinking window but will likely carry on for another decade, maybe two.
95 Miranda Franco Jul 5, 2022

Château Prieuré-Lichine, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($48):

Château Prieuré-Lichine is a 500-year old Bordeaux estate, in the Margaux appellation. Their Fourth Growth Grand Cru Classé wines have earned critical acclaim and are arguably some of the most outstanding value wines on the Left Bank of Bordeaux. The 2015 Prieuré-Lichine is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It is a gorgeous, elegant wine. Cabernet aromatics provide notes of fresh redcurrants, black currants, and dried herbs, plus wafts of cedar and pencil shavings. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers a great intensity of pure black and red fruit flavors framed by firm tannins and a lively backbone of acidity. It finishes with a persistent and refreshing herbal lift.
95 Miranda Franco Dec 13, 2022

Château Palmer, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 1996 ($125): Since Classified First Growths are prohibitively expensive, I like to look for great red Bordeaux that should be First Growths, but were not granted that status in the 1855 Classification. Château Palmer, clearly the most over-achieving Third Growth and better than almost all Second Growths as well, has turned out a beauty in the somewhat austere 1996 vintage. It has deep, yet fresh, aromas of cedar, is smooth, harmonious, and graceful, with ripe, resolved tannins. It is superb even now, but will be even better in six years. The 1996 Château Palmer is available upon special request. Your retail merchant can obtain them for you. The U.S. contact for Château Palmer, should you have any difficulty finding them, is Jean-louis Carbonnier, e-mail address: j-lc@mindspring.com. 94 Ed McCarthy Nov 22, 2005

Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 1999 ($40): The commune of Margaux, unlike the rest of the Médoc, made exceptional wine in 1999, much like 1983. The prices remain reasonable because the entire vintage is forgotten next to the glorious 2000s. Château Rauzan-Ségla continues to improve at a rate far faster than its prices rise. Their 1999 is still widely available at the retail level and should be snatched up whenever you see it. Ripe and silky, it has layers of earthiness intermingled with black fruit. Hard to resist now, it should develop beautifully over the next decade. 94 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006

Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($78): Rauzan-Ségla is a great success in 2008. It combines the silkiness characteristic of the wines from the commune of Margaux with a dark core of mineral-infused fruitiness. It’s conveys power without being “in-your-face.” Nuances of tobacco and cedar emerge as the wine sits in the glass. Long and polished, it will be even better with a decade of cellaring. 94 Michael Apstein Feb 7, 2012

Château D’Issan, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($59): The 2008 vintage in Bordeaux is destined to always be overshadowed by the much praised—and more expensive—2009 vintage, which means there

are some excellent, well-priced wines, like this one, to be found among the 2008s. Showing its Margaux origins, the 2008 D’Issan is plush and velvety with polished tannins wrapped around a deep mineraly core. Not a bombastic wine, it still has plenty of concentration and power. Yet, its elegance, balance and length are what’s captivating. Appropriately youthful and tightly wound at this stage, it’s best left in the cellar for a decade. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012

Château D’Issan, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($59): The 2008 vintage in Bordeaux is destined to always be overshadowed by the much praised--and more expensive--2009

vintage, which means there are some excellent, well-priced wines, like this one, to be found among the 2008s. Showing its Margaux origins, the 2008 D’Issan is plush and velvety with polished tannins wrapped around a deep mineraly core. Not a bombastic wine, it still has plenty of concentration and power. Yet, its elegance, balance and length are what’s captivating. Appropriately youthful and tightly wound at this stage, it’s best left in the cellar for a decade. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2012

Château Lascombes, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($98):

Château Lascombes, in the Margaux appellation, was designated as a Second Growth in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification and thus has a long history of fine wine production In recent decades, Lascombes has fully reflected their lofty status. The 2020 Lascombes is a lovely example of Margaux style. Ripe blackcurrant, black cherry and plum fruits are followed by hints of vanilla, violets, cedar, roasted coffee and baking spices plus subtle tones of herbs and earth. On the palate, it is impressive for the depth of its fruit and layering of complex flavors. The 2020 Lascombes is a fine Bordeaux that will begin to show its best in another five years and will cellar well for two decades beyond that.
93 Wayne Belding Jan 30, 2024

Château Marquis de Terme, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($52): The much-heralded 2009 vintage in Bordeaux produced ripe and rich wines because of virtually perfect weather throughout the growing season. They are a great contrast to the more racy and structured 2010s. Both are considered equally great vintages. Your preference will likely depend on whether you prefer riper and fleshier wines (2009) or tauter ones (2010). Château Marquis de Terme brought in a new team in 2009 and the improvement in the wines is immediately apparent. The new winemaker, Ludovic David, is an advocate of a later harvest to enhance ripeness and eliminate vegetal notes. The 2009 is rich, ripe and dense, yet retains brilliant acidity and freshness that David attributes to the “acidic terroir” and inclusion of a dollop of Petit Verdot, a grape known for its acidity. The plushness of Margaux in evident in this gorgeous young wine and indeed, allows those without a cellar to enjoy it now for its exuberance. Like their 2010, the 2009 Marquis de Terme is an excellent buy in today’s market.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Château Palmer, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Alter Ego de Palmer” 2015 ($100):

second wine of Château Palmer, Alter Ego de Palmer exhibits the same elegance and complexity of the estate's flagship wine, but with an earlier drinking window. Second wines from the best properties in Bordeaux like Château Palmer often stand as excellent deals. The 2015 Alter Ego is composed of 52% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. It opens with welcoming aromatics of cassis, plum pie, black cherry liqueur, and lavender. Supple tannins support layers of plum, anise, black pepper, espresso, leather and cigar box notes. The palate is full-bodied, fresh, and expansive, but maintains a persistent thread of crushed minerals and lifted acidity that allows for an elegant and lingering finish. It offers a powerful temptation to meet its esteemed big brother.
93 Miranda Franco Jul 5, 2022

Chateau Brane-Cantenac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($55, Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines): Brane-Cantenac, a second growth Bordeaux located in the commune of Margaux, has been on a roll lately, making excellent wines in 2003, 2004 and 2005. The only thing wrong with the 2004 red Bordeaux overall is that they will always be in the shadow of the stupendous 2005s. But for now, the 2004 Brane-Cantenac--a wonderful wine--is more enjoyable to drink than the more widely coveted 2005. A deep core of black fruit and earthy nuances enrobed in silky tannins make it a textbook Margaux. For a young Bordeaux it has remarkable development that helps explain why it's easy--and satisfying--to drink now. Half the price of the 2005 Brane-Cantenac, it's an excellent choice for dinner tonight. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2009

Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Baron de Brane” 2016 ($35):

The 2016 Baron de Brane is an intriguing blend of 65% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Cabernet Franc. This is the second wine of Château Brane Cantenac, a Second Growth in the Bordeaux Classification of 1855. The name honors Baron Hector de Brane, who owned the estate in the 19th century. Blended from vats carefully selected for their suppleness, it is aged just like the First Wine but for a 12-month period. It exudes lilac, plum, bay leaf, and black tea aromas over a core of warm red currants and ripe black cherries infused with cedar and a swirl of cinnamon. Lovely depth and succulence complement the freshness, fine-grained tannin, and persistent aromatic finish.
92 Miranda Franco Apr 25, 2023

Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Vivens” 2009 ($38):

I highly recommend the second wines of the top estates in Bordeaux, especially as the prices of the grand vins make them unattainable for most of us. Vivens from Château Durfort-Vivens is an especially attractive one. Château Durfort-Vivens, classified as a 2nd growth in the Médoc classification of 1855, is regaining its former stature under the guidance of Gonzague Lurton, part of the family whose name implies excellence in Bordeaux. The 2009 Vivens delivers the ripeness of that vintage without being overdone or flamboyant. Enrobed in the plush tannins that are the signature of Margaux, it is “forward” and easy to enjoy now, yet has adequate structure so it doesn’t come across as a “fruit bomb.” It finishes with a hint of earthiness that adds complexity.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016

Baron de Brane, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2007 ($35): Baron de Brane is the second wine of Chateau Brane Cantenac, a Bordeaux property given 2nd growth status in the Medoc Classification of

1855. Second wines, like this one, are made from batches the winemaking team deemed not suitable for the grand vin. The wine could have come from young vines or lacked the structure and density the winemaker was seeking. Typically earlier maturing, they are a great bargain for the consumer because you get a sense of the character and style of the property at a far lower price. This is a great example. Don’t be put off by the vintage. Conscientious producers, like Brane Cantenac, make good wine even in less exalted years. This 2007 Baron de Brane is ready to drink now with plush tannins -- it does come from Margaux--and cassis-laden fruitiness. It has surprising complexity for a second wine and is perfect with a steak now. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012

Blason D’Issan, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($37): Can’t wait a decade to drink the 2008 Château D’Issan (also reviewed this week)? Try D’Issan’s second wine, Blason D’Issan. Emmanuel Cruse, whose family owns Château D’Issan, says that the difference between their Grand Vin (Château D’Issan) and Blason is chiefly the age of the vines. For Blason, the vines average 18 years of age and roughly twice that for the first wine. The two are vinified the same way, with the Grand Vin receiving a touch more aging in oak barrels than Blason. In the past, second wines have been relegated to supermarkets of France, but now to export them, they must focus on higher quality. And it shows. While the Blason lacks the complexity of its big brother, it still delivers the plushness and mineraly character of Margaux. The plus side is that the 2008 Blason is more approachable now and would be a good choice with a steak tonight. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012

Chateau Brane-Cantenac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($60, Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines): The quality of Brane-Cantenac's 2003, a difficult year to make wine because of extreme heat, demonstrates the talent of the team Henri Lurton has in place. It's a refined wine, showing the plush tannins characteristic of wines from the commune of Margaux, without a trace of the baked or pruney quality that marred many wines from that vintage. It has a lovely combination of dark fruit, wet earth and spice. Still unevolved, it would benefit from several more years of cellaring. Its lovely balance and grace at this stage virtually guarantees that it will continue to evolve nicely. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2009

Château d’Issan, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2007 ($50): The 2007 vintage in Bordeaux has been lost between 2006 and 2008, two more successful ones. But it’s important for consumers to remember that dedicated producers, such as Chateau d’Issan, still make excellent wines in these “lesser” years. The quality of the wines of d’Issan has sky-rocketed since Emmanuel Cruse took the reigns in 1998. One technique that allows producers to turn out memorable wines in less than memorable years is to make a more rigorous selection. In 2007, a whopping 60% of d’Issan production went into their second wine, Blason d’Issan. As a result, the 2007 Chateau d’Issan is a brilliant wine with real class. Ripe without being weighty or heavy, it conveys the earthy mineraly often lacking in lesser wine from Margaux. Atypical for Cru Classé Bordeaux, it’s remarkably enjoyable now. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2011

Château Kirwan, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($40):

Château Kirwan has long been a producer of rather robust Margaux wines. Designated as a Third Growth in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, Kirwan has quietly produced very high quality and great value Margaux for decades. The 2012 is a lovely example of Kirwan style. Blackcurrant, black cherry and plum fruits are interwoven with hints of vanilla, violets and baking spices plus subtle tones of mint and earth. It is impressive for the purity of its fruit and layering of flavors. The 2012 Kirwan is a fine Bordeaux that can be enjoyed now or cellared for 5 to 10 years. 90 Wayne Belding Feb 17, 2015

La Bastide Dauzac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($39):

When consumers consider Bordeaux, they rightly remember the names of the chateaux more than the names of the people behind them. Well, the name André Lurton is worth remembering because the Lurton family has a spectacular track record of producing excellent wines from a variety of properties all over Bordeaux. André Lurton’s daughter manages Château Dauzac, a classified Médoc from the commune of Margaux. La Bastide Dauzac, the property’s second wine, is a great success in 2010 with a wonderful balance of herbal flavors and fresh red-fruit notes from the roughly 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend. Moderate tannins give welcome support without being intrusive. Enjoy it now with a steak while young and vibrant, or cellar it for a decade and savor the added complexity it will develop. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 10, 2013

Labastide Dauzac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2007 ($41, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): The so-called “second” wines of Bordeaux chateaux, such as this one from Chateau Dauzac, offer the consumer great value. Typically they are made from the property’s younger vines or batches that for some reason don’t make the cut to be included with the flagship Grand Vin. This one, a blend of Merlot (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, has all the suaveness and silkiness you’d expect from Margaux. Already delivering lovely cedar and tobacco notes to complement a mixture of red and black fruit notes, it’s remarkably enjoyable now. Good concentration and length completes the package, making it a good choice if you need a classy wine for tonight’s dinner. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2012

Baron de Brane, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($40, Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines): Baron de Brane is the second wine of Chateau Brane-Cantenac. Second wines are usually made from younger vines or portions of the vineyard that are less ideally situated. They typically lack the elegance and finesse of le grand vin; they're not necessarily lighter. The 2003 Baron de Brane explains why the 2003 Brane Cantenac is so good. All of the less refined elements are in the Baron, giving this wine a charming rusticity to accompany its considerable concentration. The tannins, while slightly coarser, are still not astringent or intrusive. Nicely evolved with alluring mature elements showing to offset the dark fruit, it would be a good choice for hearty winter fare now. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2009

Chateau Greysac, Medoc (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($20): Château Greysac, a consistently value-packed wine, is one of the most widely available Bordeaux in the U.S. marketplace. The 2009 is particularly successful because the fleshy ripe fruitiness and power of the vintage marries nicely with the savory, slightly bitter notes characteristic of wine from the Médoc. In short, it’s a terrific choice tonight for steak frites. But don’t think this wine is a flash in the pan. Greysac from great vintages, like 2009, develops gorgeously—I’ve just had a 1982 Greysac, (another great vintage) from my cellar and it’s a winner. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 10, 2013

Château Rollan de By, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($48):

Château Rollan de By is a perpetual overachiever, and one of the several properties that now comprise Jean Guyon led Domaine Rollan de By and includes Château Greysac. The French wine authorities have awarded it Cru Bourgeois status, a category that sits just below the more prestigious Cru Classé. Cru Bourgeois wines in general are reliable and offer a superb price quality ratio. The blend of the Château Rollan de By in slanted towards Merlot, which is a bit unusual for wines from the Médoc and may help explain the silky tannins of the 2015. The wine, beautiful to drink now, conveys a harmonious balance of fruity flavors coupled with savory notes of maturity that add complexity and interest. It would be a perfect choice for steak on the grill.
92 Michael Apstein May 3, 2022

Château Rollan de By, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($40):

A Merlot-dominant blend, the Château Rollan de By has been classified as a Cru Bourgeois, a group of 200+ properties lumped just below the Cru Classé level, Bordeaux’s top strata. For me, the wines from these estates, such as Château Rollan de By, offer Bordeaux’s greatest value. Still available at retail, this wine, at 5 years of age, is marvelous to drink now, showing a combination of dark fruit and savory flavors, wrapped in suave tannins. Thankfully lacking a block-busting profile, this mid-weight wine relies on elegance and a “not just fruit” sensation for its allure. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2017

Château des Granges d’Or, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($14, ExCellars):

Although the most famous 2005 Cru Classé wines from the Médoc are frightfully expensive, the Cru Bourgeois (the next level

down in classification) are not, and many, such as this one, are classy and refined. This bottling shows the class of the Médoc, one the best areas in Bordeaux for red wine. With more tannin and structure at this stage than the 2005 Château Barrié or Château Sauman--two wines from the Côtes de Bourg I recommend highly--it needs a few years to soften and come together. But I am certain it will because it has plenty of sweet fruit and non-fruit flavors to balance the tannins. Ultimately it will be a better wine than those two from the Côtes de Bourg, but give it time. This is an ideal purchase for either a new or established wine cellar with an eye towards consumption in 5 years. Just be sure to buy enough of two wines from the Côtes de Bourg to drink while you're waiting for this one to become ready.

Château Tour Blanche, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($30, Cape Cod Wholesale Wine & Spirits): This château, classified as a Cru Bourgeois, just one level beneath the Cru Classé, produced a succulent lovely wine in 2003. Despite its ripe flavors, as expected from that very warm year in Bordeaux, and remarkable suppleness, it's still readily identifiable as coming from the Médoc. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006

Mouton Cadet Réserve, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2000 ($14, Caravelle Wine Selections): Yes! A big step up from the quite good Mouton Cadet, the 2000 Mouton Cadet Réserve Médoc, 55 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 7 percent Cabernet Franc, and 38 percent Merlot, is a well-balanced, structured wine with dark fruit aromas and flavors, good concentration, and is cleanly made. You can enjoy it now, but it will age for another few years. Excellent value. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château Greysac, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2000 ($16, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines): Château Greysac, Cru Bourgeois classified, is one of the most well-known and most widely available Bordeaux wines in the U.S. The 2000 Greysac has aromas and flavors of cedar and ripe, black fruits, with considerable tannin and a classy, velvety finish. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Chateau La Gravette Lacombe, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($18, Fruit of the Vine): This is a fine example of how good the more affordable wines from the

2003 vintage in Bordeaux can be, and thankfully, it is still available now that it has really softened up and come into its prime. Aromas of blackberry and dark cherry are accented with notes of cedar, spices and dried herbs, and some bottle bouquet is beginning to emerge also. Pair this with less robust preparations of red meat such as roast beef or roast leg of lamb. 89 Michael Franz Mar 16, 2010

Chateau Potensac, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($18, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines): Chateau Potensac belongs to the Delon family, which also owns the illustrious Chateau Léoville-Las Cases. The attractively priced

Potensac is based on Cabernet Sauvignon, along with good measures of Merlot (40%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). It's big and brash, with juicy plum flavors and bold tannins that seem to cry out for roast lamb. 88 Marguerite Thomas Jan 9, 2007

Château Bourbon La Chapelle, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($17): This, the second wine of Château Castera, a property classified as one of the Cru Bourgeois of Médoc, shows the value of Bordeaux. The current owners acquired Château Castera in1986 from famed Bordeaux merchant and property owner, Alexis Lichine. The last 30 years have seen enormous renovations in the winery and the vineyards that explain the current high level of quality, even of their second wine. Located north of St. Estèphe near the Atlantic Ocean, the wine is harmonious blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot, which conveys an earthy character buttressed by a pleasantly firm structure. Though easy to drink now, it is not an “aperitif” wine, but rather a good choice for lamb chops or steak. A great buy!
87 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Château Loudenne, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($25, Maisons Marques and Domaines): This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot shows why the red wines from Bordeaux continue to be popular. This Cru Bourgeois (one level down from the far more prestigious--and expensive--Cru Classé) delivers nice ripeness intertwined with herbal, almost leafy, elements and buttressed by firm, but not astringent or intrusive, tannins. The 2004 vintage will always live in the shadow of the superb 2005, but that also means that prices for it will be more reasonable. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 16, 2008

Christian Moueix, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($23, Kobrand): Tasty and attractively priced, this features a core of fruit marked by notes of cassis and blackberry, augmented by accents of cedar and spices. Made from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, it will show additional complexity if you can lay it down for a couple of years, but is ready to enjoy now if paired with food. 87 Michael Franz Nov 27, 2007

Chateau Bessan Ségur, Médoc Cru Bourgeois (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($24, Fruit of the Vine):

This is a promising offering from the widely-heralded 2005 vintage in Bordeaux that is now opening up to show impressive quality at a reasonable price. Styled on the more robust end of medium-bodied, it shows nicely ripened fruit that offers a hint of sweetness to counterbalance the tannins, which are abundant but fine in grain and not overly astringent. Both the aromas and flavors show nice complexity at this point in the wine’s development, and it can be enjoyed now or laid down for another 5-7 years of further development. 89 Michael Franz Mar 16, 2010

Château Clos Manou, Médoc, Bordeaux (France) "Petit Manou" 2019 ($28, Martine Sélection):

A new venture founded in 1998 and located in Saint-Christoly de Médoc, Clos Manou now has 18 acres planted to the usual Bordeaux varieties. “Petit Manou” is the second label and is made predominantly from Merlot. Aged in one and two year old oak for 12 months, this 2019 is packaged in that rarely encountered glass-like fake cork closure. Deep in color, the wine showcases aromas of black fruit along with herbs, mint and subtle cocoa. Medium-bodied and tightly structured, with compact flavors of berries and dusty tannins. It finishes with some tannic grip suggesting it needs another year or to come together. Good for the price.
90 Norm Roby Jul 18, 2023

Château de Panigon, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($20, Grape Expectations):

An old family run estate dating back to the 1860s, Panigon now has 60 acres under vine. Since 2006 the ancient property has been managed and its vineyards improved by the new generation. This 2016 consists of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet and 5% Petit Verdot. Medium bodied with a solid structure, it offers subtle floral and mint in its aroma with a touch of black truffle. The flavors are expansive and still quite youthful with black fruits and refined, round tannins. Best to drink over the next 2 to 3 years. At this price it is an excellent entry level Bordeaux.
90 Norm Roby Apr 5, 2022

Château de Parsac, Montagne St. Émilion (Bordeaux, France) 2007 ($35, Royal Wine Company): Montagne St. Emilion, one of what are known as 'satellite' appellations of St. Emilion, is a good place to find St. Emilion-styled wines at non-St. Emilion prices. Like wines from St. Emilion, this blend, primarily Merlot (80%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, offers a more savory--almost leafy--expression of Merlot compared to its California counterpart. Fine, polished tannins lend support without astringency and mean you can enjoy it without further aging. Kosher for Passover, I would be delighted to find it on a seder table this year. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 10, 2009

Château Faizeau, Montagne-Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) “Sélection Vieilles Vignes” 2010 ($25):

Montagne-Saint-Emilion, a “satellite” appellation of Saint-Emilion, lies adjacent to the north of that revered appellation. The wines from this satellite are never as grand or complex, but then again they’re never as pricey. Indeed, good values, such as Chateau Faizeau, are everywhere in Montagne-Saint Emilion, especially in a great year, such as 2010. With this wine, mild savory notes marry fresh fruity ones. It’s a good marriage, especially since fine, almost silky, tannins allow you to enjoy it tonight.
90 Michael Apstein May 13, 2014

Château Tour Bayard, Montagne-Saint-Émillion (Bordeaux, France) 2019 ($24, Vintus):

Consumers often overlook Bordeaux because of an image that the wines are rarified, expensive, and need considerable aging. That criticism may apply to the top few properties, but trust me, there are scores of estates that make well-priced wines that are ready to drink now, like this one. This succulent red comes from a Saint-Émillion “satellite” appellation, Montagne-Saint-Émillion, that borders the more famous locale. Like other right bank wines, the Château Tour Bayard is a Merlot-dominate (80 percent) and Cabernet Sauvignon, which helps explain its fleshy dark-fruited profile. Mild tannins lend needed structure without astringency and make it a joy to drink tonight.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2023

Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($44):

Château Poujeaux, in recent decades, has been a consistent producer of high-quality wines in all harvests. Nestled in Moulis-en-Médoc, set back from the Gironde estuary between the St. Julien and Margaux appellations, Poujeaux is always more affordable than its lauded neighbors. The 2018 Poujeaux is a classic Bordeaux blend with robust fruit from this ripe harvest and great complexity. It is rich with blackberry, blackcurrant and red cherry fruits underscored by hints of violets, tobacco, smoke, vanilla and baking spices. It is an exemplary claret that with beautiful purity of fruit and complex layering of flavors. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon (47%), Merlot (41%), Petit Verdot (9%) and Cabernet Franc (3%). This is a wine you can enjoy now or cellar for another 15+ years.
93 Wayne Belding Sep 14, 2021

Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($28):

Although 2012 was a lighter vintage for Bordeaux overall, the best wines have a lot of charm and character -- and prices that are much friendlier than other recent harvests. Château Poujeaux, in recent decades, has been a consistent producer of high quality wines in all harvests. The 2012 Poujeaux continues this winning streak and is rich with blackberry, blackcurrant and red cherry fruits underscored by hints of violets, tobacco, smoke, vanilla and baking spices. It is exemplary claret that belies the reputation of a light vintage with its beautiful purity of fruit and complex layering of flavors. This is a wine you can enjoy now or cellar for another 5+ years.
92 Wayne Belding Feb 24, 2015

Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2011 ($33): Château Poujeaux continues its recent string of fine efforts. Although the 2011 harvest lacks the enthusiastic ratings of the previous two vintages, fine wines can be found at less exalted prices. Rich with blackberry, black plum and blueberry fruits balanced by vanilla and baking spices, the 2011 Poujeaux is defined by its beautiful purity and complex layering of flavors. You can enjoy it now or cellar it for another decade.
91 Wayne Belding Apr 15, 2014

Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac (Bordeaux, France) 2000 ($290, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines): Pichon-Lalande, from the village of Pauillac in the Haut-Médoc district of Bordeaux, is known in the wine world as a 'Super-Second' Growth because it really is on the same level as the five Bordeaux First Growths. I have never experienced a bottle of Pichon-Lalande that I didn't love! Its calling cards are velvety texture, aromas of cassis, and a long finish on the palate. It is superb in the wonderful 2000 vintage. Ask the sommelier to decant it. 96 Ed McCarthy Feb 5, 2008

Chateau Pichon Lalande, Pauillac (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($150, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): The heat and drought in France in 2003 resulted in unusual wines--both splendid and abysmal. Put this one in the former category.

Incredibly elegant and layered, the 2003 Pichon Lalande is beautifully balanced and neither overdone nor over extracted. The earthy black current flavors glide over your palate. You feel the effect of oak aging without tasting the wood. Perfectly ripe fruit and well-honed tannins add a gorgeous suppleness. Tasting it side-by-side with Reserve de la Comtesse, Pichon Lalande's second wine, you immediately appreciate its refinement and length, not just its power. 95 Michael Apstein Jun 24, 2008

Domaines Barons de Rothschild - Lafite, Pauillac (Bordeaux, France) “Légende” 2015 ($55, Taub Family Selections):

Bordeaux has become so expensive to buy and so frustrating to use that many consumers have turned away entirely. This is an example of the sort of wine that could reverse this trend. It inspires confidence by bearing the imprimatur of one of the world’s greatest producers -- and then backing it up with excellent wine that is easy to enjoy upon release but still true to the seriousness of its famed appellation. Surely the warm 2015 growing season contributes to the easy enjoyability of this release, so my recommendation doesn’t extend beyond this vintage, but snatch this if you see it in a store or a wine list. It shows wonderful dark berry fruit with very interesting mineral accents and touches of spicy oak plus, believe it or not, the famed undertone of pencil shavings long associated with the terroir of Pauillac within the firmament of Bordeaux. Classy and satisfying at once.
91 Michael Franz Jul 2, 2019

Reserve de la Comtesse, Pauillac (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($50, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): A 'super second' in Bordeaux refers to the handful of chateaux classified as a second growth in the Médoc Classification of 1855 but which command higher prices than others similarly classified. However, the same term is appropriate for this wine, the second wine from Chateau Pichon Lalande, one of the 'super seconds.' Even though a slice of Pichon Lalande's vineyards is in the neighboring commune of St. Julien, this wine is a classically structured Pauillac with a vaguely tarry minerality intermixed with black currant fruit flavors that is characteristic of the wines from that commune. It's beautifully balanced Bordeaux from a year that produced some awkward wines. And at a third the price of the first wine (also reviewed this week), it's a bargain. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 24, 2008

Château Pape Clement, Pessac-Leognan (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($125):

Château Pape Clément is one of the oldest Grands Crus of Bordeaux from Pessac-Léognan and arguably competes with the famed Château Haut-Brion (also from Pessac-Léognan) for a fraction of the price. Blended from 60% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc, the 2016 Pape Clement offers an enticing aroma of blackcurrant, in the glass. The depth and length of the palate and finish are exceptional. Simply gorgeous, indulgent, and capable of providing pure bliss.
96 Miranda Franco May 18, 2021

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) Rouge 2009 ($80): A criticism of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage is that the ripeness and power obliterate the origin and typicity of the wines. That may be true for some, but not for Domaine de Chevalier, who, as usual, made a gorgeous wine. Ripe and lush flavors intermingle seamlessly with earthy and dusty notes, maintaining the alluring ash-like signature of Pessac-Léognan. The tannins are plush and polish. Extraordinarily long, the wow-factor is the seemingly endless array of flavors, not just its power. It’s classy and elegant and given the price of many of the ‘09 Bordeaux, a relative bargain. 97 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2012

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($90):

The Domaine de Chevalier is beautifully situated on a high point in the Pessac-Léognan appellation within the Graves region near the city of Bordeaux. The estate is well-known for its superb white wines that routinely rank among the best of the appellation. The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge joins the Blanc in the top rank of Pessac-Léognan wines. This is truly outstanding wine even at this youthful stage. The bouquet is rich and complex, with layers of blackcurrant, blackberry and plum fruits interwoven with hints of vanilla, violets, tobacco, cedar, smoke and baking spices plus subtle tones of herbs and earth. On the palate, it unfolds in layers of pure and opulent black currant, black and red cherry fruits followed by a glorious range of mint, cedar, savory herb, earth, smoke and spice nuances that seem to evolve as you savor the wine. The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge is a stellar Bordeaux that has the potential to age for 30 to 50 years. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (27%), Petit Verdot (5%), and Cabernet Franc (3%).
97 Wayne Belding Dec 5, 2023

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2014 ($58):

Olivier Bernard, owner of Domaine de Chevalier, believes that the wines from Pessac-Léognan should be “feminine, not a powerhouse.” In keeping with his philosophy, Domaine de Chevalier red is never a block-busting powerhouse. But it’s always a majestic wine. The 2014, while less concentrated and less dense than others from Pessac-Léognan, is exciting to taste. It’s a magical combination of fruit and savory notes enveloped in supple tannins. It has a Burgundian-like character. Indeed, the phrase I often use to describe red Burgundy, “flavor without weight,” comes to mind. It’s rare to find a wine of this caliber at this price.
94 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) Rouge 2002 ($32, Classic Wine Imports; WJ Deutsch & Sons): In 1970, André Lurton purchased Château Couhins, a cru classé property in Pessac-Léognan. He has upgraded the property and extended it to include vineyards with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, varieties that had been planted there in the 14th century. The 2002, only the third vintage of the red wine, is marvelous. A blend of roughly 75% Merlot and the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon, it has gamy and exotic flavors wrapped around a core of fruit. It's engaging now thanks to its supple tannins, beautiful balance and long finish, but its structure suggests it will evolve nicely over the next decade. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2006

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($170, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines):

La Mission Haut-Brion, located just south of the city of Bordeaux, is the sister-Château of the famous First Growth, Château Haut-Brion, and rivals its prestigious sibling in most vintages--at one-third its price. Whereas Haut-Brion's trademark is elegance and grace, La Mission is known for its power and depth. In 2003 La Mission is a particularly massive wine, a blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Perfect with steak or lamb. 93 Ed McCarthy Feb 5, 2008

Château Brown, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($38, Fruit of the Vines):

According to co-owner Jean-Christophe Mau in a recent webinar, “2015 was a great vintage in Bordeaux, one of the best since 2005. With our Graves soil, of course, the majority is Cabernet Sauvignon, 55 percent, with a little Petit Verdot, and the rest is Merlot.” The color is dark ruby with amber tints on the rim, reflecting a bit of aging. The wine is smooth with integrated flavors of cassis and black cherry with savory notes lifted with bright acidity and finishing with silky smooth tannins. The 148-acre wine estate is located about 3 miles from the bustling city of Bordeaux. Only 35 acres of that estate are planted to vines, 30 acres to red grapes five acres to white grapes. Much of the estate is dedicated to trees, hedges, wetlands, flower beds and beehives to encourage and maintain biodiversity. He notes that their farming practices are not organic, but their goal is biodiversity and to reduce their production of CO2 .
92 Rebecca Murphy May 18, 2021

Château de Cruzeau, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($27, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits):

This wine exemplifies why Bordeaux remains a benchmark for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-based wine. It’s not just about the fruit, of which there’s plenty. But the real excitement comes from the non-fruit flavors of earth, herbs and ash, plus the slight bitterness in the long and fine finish. The moderate tannins are polished and fine, which, along with extraordinary freshness, makes the wine engaging now. Drink it now or over the next year before it “closes up” or plan on cellaring it for a decade. This refined wine is perfect for a holiday feast that includes a rib roast.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013

Château Haut-Bacalan, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($40):

This wine shows that Bordeaux need not be super expensive nor put in the cellar for a decade or two before pulling the cork. Its slightly burnt ash character identifies it as a wine from Pessac-Léognan, the prestigious subregion of Graves. Like fine Bordeaux, it’s not just about fruitiness, though it has plenty of that. Firm, but polished tannins add structure and make it a better choice for grilled meat this summer than for sipping as an aperitif. But there’s no rush to drink it because its balance and harmony suggests it will age gracefully and develop more nuances over the next five to ten years.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015

Château Hosanna, Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($200, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): In 1999, Christian Moueix purchased a well-established vineyard, formerly called Château Certan Giraud, adjacent to Chateau Pétrus, upgraded it by selling off a less desirable piece, and renamed it Chateau Hosanna. Planted with roughly 2/3rds Merlot and 1/3 Cabernet Franc, Moueix believes it is a more 'feminine' and approachable wine compared to the almost 100% Merlot Pétrus. Moueix attributes part of the success of all their properties in 2003, a notoriously hot year, to not trimming the vine canopies, but letting them grow and shade the grapes. That technique paid off with this wine, the class and polish of which is readily apparent. Not jammy or over-extracted, it is just ripe, rich and long, filled with dark fruit and earth flavors. Although enjoyable now--the tannins are fine and supple--it should evolve nicely over the next decade. 94 Michael Apstein Jun 24, 2008

Château Rouget, Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2017 ($66):

Château Rouget has long been one of the best values among Pomerols. The 2017 harvest was a challenging one. The best wines show opulent fruit with a fine balance of acid and tannin. Rouget was meticulous, passing through the vineyards multiple times to select only ripe fruit. The 2017 Rouget shows a generous, plush style with blackberry and black cherry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of cedar, herbs and toasty oak. The flavors are ripe, plush and layered, with the black fruits interwoven with the herb and spice tones. All the elements of the wine are in harmony and the 2017 Rouget will provide delicious drinking for the next decade and beyond.
93 Wayne Belding Nov 3, 2020

Château Bellegrave, Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($67, Weygant-Metzler Importing):

A review of first-rate Bordeaux from… 2010? You could wonder whether this review belongs in WRO’s new section on, “Wines from the Cellar” rather than with current releases, but remarkably enough, it is still available at the wholesale level in some markets, including in Washington, D.C., where I live. No Bordeaux vintage since 2010 has bested it, in my opinion, though 2015 got a lot of attention for very ripe (and expensive) wines that aren’t as complete and complex as the 2010s. This very fine “Right Bank” wine shows both the full ripeness and intensity of the 2010s but also the striking freshness of the vintage, which make for a wonderful wine that is fully ready to enjoy now, but still capable of another five years of improvement. Aromas and flavors recall black plums and cherries, with a strong spicy edge and a whiff of smoke, but no un-integrated woody notes. Pass the prime rib.
92 Michael Franz Sep 11, 2018

Château de Valois, Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($70, North Berkeley Imports):

Passed down through three generations, Frédéric Leydet is the latest family member to run Château de Valois. This predominantly Merlot (finished with Cabernet Franc) wine spills out a variety of profound, Bordeaux-like aromas: black currant, baked black cherry, balsamic, fig, graphite, and beautifully integrated baking spices. Ripe tannins frame the silky texture with just enough grip. It is excellent with a classic dish like steak frites.
91 Miranda Franco Jan 16, 2024

Christian Moueix, Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($23, Kobrand): A delicious wine from an excellent vintage at a very fair price. What's not to like about this? A blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, it shows impressively deep color, and follows it up with ripe--but not sweet--fruit recalling plums and berries. Subtle smoke and mushroom notes lend added complexity, and very fine-grained tannins contribute structure without turning the finish astringent. Of the three new wines in this line (the other two are a Saint-Émilion and a Médoc), this is the pick of the litter. 89 Michael Franz Nov 27, 2007

Chateau Dubraud, Premieres Cotes de Blaye (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($17):

10 year old Bordeaux for seventeen bucks? There's a lot going on here, though I'd say you'll want to look for it soon, and drink it right away. It's showing solid aged Right Bank character, with earth and leather starting to overtake the fruit, though there's still plenty enough currant and blueberry to keep your interest. Contains 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.
88 Rich Cook Feb 17, 2015

Château Pérenne, Premières Côtes de Blaye (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($30, Cape Cod Wholesale Wine & Spirits): A lesser-known appellation adjacent to Côtes de Bourg on the Right Bank, the Premières Côtes de Blaye is a name to remember when looking for 'value' in Bordeaux. Château Pérenne, made from a blend of about 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and classified as a Cru Bourgeois, is one of the 23 properties Bernard Magrez owns in Bordeaux. Magrez is committed to making unique and distinctive wines whether the grapes come from his flagship vineyard, Château Pape Clément, or a less renowned vineyard, such as this one. Aromatic and long, its ripe flavors wrapped in supple tannins makes it exceedingly enjoyable even now. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006

Château La Grange Clinet, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux (Bordeaux, France) 2002 ($9, Maison Nicolas): The '02 La Grange Clinet has surprising concentration of dark berry and cassis fruit plus a good amount of tannin. It is a well-made, well-balanced wine, lean but concentrated, and a GREAT VALUE-exactly what I'm looking for in an inexpensive Bordeaux. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château Carignan, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux (Bordeaux, France) 2000 ($15, Serge Doré Selections): The 2000 Château Carignan is closed right now, aromatically, but is well knit, with concentrated dark fruit flavors and some serious tannins. A substantial wine (65 percent Merlot, 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10 percent Cabernet Franc), but too young and unevolved to drink now. 88 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Château du Grand Mouëys, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux (Bordeaux, France) 2001 ($12, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines): The '01 Grand Mouëys has aromas of sweet, spicy oak and big, spicy fruit flavors, more new-style than classic Bordeaux. Try it with a rare steak to mitigate its tannin. 85 Ed McCarthy Sep 26, 2005

Chateau Dubraud, Premieres Cotes-de-Blaye (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($17):

If you're looking to get a decent Bordeaux fix on a budget, this Right Bank chateau delivered a good effort in the heralded 2005 vintage. The nose is mature at this point and the primary fruit is giving way to secondary aromas of cigar box and coffee, but it remains long on complexity and presents a tremendous opportunity to taste a Bordeaux with a bit of age without having to pay a king's ransom.
87 Robert Whitley Feb 10, 2015

Chateau Soleil, Puisseguin Saint Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($35):

A great value in a Bordeaux from a ripe vintage. Nice blackberry, blueberry, leather, and dried herbs delivered with a firm grip and a long finish that is already showing good integration of flavors and is displaying age-worthy acidity. If you're a fan of the riper Bordeaux style, you've got a budget priced winner here.
92 Rich Cook Feb 17, 2015

Chateau Soleil, Puisseguin Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($35):

This chateau in the satellite AOC of Puisseguin Saint-Emilion is part of the Stephan von Neipperg stable of chateaux (which includes Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere). That means, quite simply, that it is held to the highest standards. The soils of the estate are clay and limestone and Merlot is the primary grape planted at about 80 percent, with some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. This outstanding vintage produced a beautiful wine that exhibits hints of cedar, spice and cassis on the nose. Well balanced, the fine tannins remain firm and the wine is still showing young. Another five to seven years should see it begin to plateau. On the palate this vintage presents layers of blackberry, plum and currant fruit, with an overlay of oak vanillin. Beautifully done.
92 Robert Whitley Feb 10, 2015

Chateau Guibot-La-Fourvieille, Puisseguin Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($28):

'We would love an '05 every year,' says Brigitte Destouet, whose family has owned this estate for three generations. Eric Destouet, her husband and the winemaker, nods in agreement. Can't blame them for their enthusiasm over this chewy wine with its core of minerality and twang of exotic fruit. Anyone in search of delicious, affordable Bordeaux should look for less-known Right Bank appellations such as Puisseguin, where there are relative bargains to be found.

Château des Laurets, Puisseguin Saint-Émilion (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($40, Terlato Wines International): This primarily Merlot-based wine from the excellent 2005 vintage is an internationally-styled rendition of Bordeaux--meaning that its appeal comes primarily from its ripe fruit flavors, and that its pliant tannins make it accessible when young. That's to the good, except that without earthy undertones, the wine does not taste all that distinctive. It doesn't seem homeless, but it also does not taste distinctly of its origin. 87 Paul Lukacs Feb 3, 2009

Les Cadrans de Lassegue, Saint Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($35, Acadia Imports):

This Merlot-driven wine comes to us under the Chateau's second label, and it's a fine, approachable introduction to the Cru. Ripe berry, moderate dried herbs and a supple structure are delightful now with a brief decant, and will improve in the bottle over the next five years. Made by Pierre Seillan.
92 Rich Cook Jul 19, 2016

Château La Tour-Figeac, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($44):

Saint Emilion is among the most productive of all Bordeaux appellations and a source of some outstanding wines in the 2018 vintage. Château La Tour-Figeac is one of sixty or so estates with the Grand Cru Classé designation. Located between Châteaux Cheval-Blanc and Figeac, La Tour Figeac comes from a very fine neighborhood indeed. Until 1879, in fact, the estate was part of Figeac. Their 2018 is one of the best renditions of the past few decades. It shows a classic Saint Emilion style with black cherry, blackberry and a touch of red cherry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of roasted coffee, cocoa, violets, herbs and toasty oak. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, it displays flavors that are round, elegant and supple, with layers of plush black and red fruits interwoven with the herb, vanilla, cocoa and spice tones. The wine exhibits a harmonious style even in its youth, and the 2018 Château La Tour-Figeac will provide delicious drinking for the next twenty years and beyond.
93 Wayne Belding Aug 10, 2021

Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien (Médoc, Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($117):

In a word, show-stopping. Léoville Poyferré has really upped their game beginning with the 2010 vintage. They made significant changes in the winery that year, installing smaller fermenting vats to allow them to have even more precision in fermenting grapes from the different vineyard parcels. Their 2015 has all the power and opulence Léoville Poyferré has been known for, but with an extra level of elegance that, in my mind, had been lacking in the past. This is a great young wine combining dark fruitiness and wonderful earthy, mineral flavors. It has exceptional length and grace. Having just come from a 15-vintage vertical tasting of their wines, I would cellar this one for another decade. Although $117 is a lot to pay for a bottle of wine, compared to other Cru Classé Bordeaux, it is well-priced for what it delivers. And it’s only $80 at Zachy’s in Scarsdale, New York, according to wine-searcher.com, which makes it a bargain.
97 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2019

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint Julien, Médoc (Burgundy, France) “Croix de Beaucaillou” 2011 ($50):

In 1995, as part of his upgrading of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Jean-Eugène Borie introduced a “second” wine, Croix de Beaucaillou, which since 2005 has been a separate wine made from a separate vineyard that lies half-way between Lalande-Borie and Ducru-Beaucaillou itself. Croix is still technically a second wine because some of the lesser lots from Ducru find their way into Croix, but Bruno Borie, the current managing director at Ducru, emphasizes that 90 percent of Croix comes from its own discrete vineyard. With a seductive glossy texture, the 2011, an excellent vintage, is showing beautifully now. Complexity shows as it sits in the glass as layers of savory nuances emerge. Supple tannins add to its refinement. With release prices of Ducru hovering at $200 a bottle, the 2011 Croix is a bargain.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2019

Château Lalande-Borie, Saint Julien, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($37):

It’s not often you see Cru Classé Bordeaux that’s ready to drink for under $40. Although you won’t see Cru Classé on the label, Château Lalande-Borie was formerly a part of Château Lagrange, which was classified as a Cru Classé in 1855, which means that technically, it still is. Jean-Eugène Borie, the then managing director of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, persuaded the Cendoya family, the then owner of Château Lagrange, to sell him a portion of their vineyard. Borie upgraded the vineyard, put his magical touch on the winemaking and renamed it Lalande-Borie. The 2012 is just starting to come into its own. Earthier and bigger than Château Ducluzeau, it is still a mid-weight wine with a glorious “not just fruit” character. It shows its Cru Classé stature beautifully. Juicy and fresh, it’s a pleasure to drink now.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2019

Château Carbonneau, Sainte-Foy Côtes de Bordeaux (France) “Classique" 2016 ($14, Vin Colorado Imports and others):

This is a lovely example of the quality one can find in 2016 red Bordeaux. Château Carbonneau is located in Sainte-Foy in the eastern reaches of the Bordeaux appellation. The rolling hills and vineyards are dotted with forested areas in this most charming part of France. Château Carbonneau is nestled in this pastoral country and produces excellent red, white and rosé wines. The 2016 Classique is a lovely example of Carbonneau style. Still quite youthful, it opens up with an hour’s aeration to reveal lovely blackcurrant, black cherry and plum fruits interwoven with hints of violets, herbs and earth. Blended from Merlot 75%, Cabernet Franc 15% and Malbec 10%, it is impressive for the purity of its fruit and layering of flavors. The 2016 Carbonneau Classique is a fine Bordeaux that can be enjoyed now or cellared for 5 to 8 years.
90 Wayne Belding Feb 5, 2019

Chateau Lassègue, Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($58, Jackson Family Wines):

Lassegue’s 2015 Bordeaux is a sumptuous Merlot-driven blend from the Right Bank. It is immensely pleasurable now and worthy of a spot in the cellar. It’s a lustrous garnet red, with vibrant aromas of ripe plum, cherry, dark chocolate, and violets. Medium to full in body, it has a dense but balanced feel on the palate with opulent layers of spiced black fruit, cassis, and mocha. The blend is 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine evolves nicely in the glass and is the perfect candidate for a case purchase.
92 Miranda Franco Mar 15, 2022

Les Cadrans de Lassegue, Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($35):

Les Cadrans, the second label of Chateau Lassegue, must qualify as the steal of the vintage, or close. Showing richly layered blackberry and cassis fruit, with a hint of woodsmoke and long, firm tannins, it's a superb candidate for the cellar. It needs another three to five years to approach its peak, which it should easily hold for another dozen years or so.
91 Robert Whitley Jun 28, 2016

Chateau Simard, Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 1999 ($30, Wilson Daniels): This 1999 Ch. Simard is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, aged in the cellar in concrete vats and bottles. The color is a brilliant medium ruby, with low intensity herbal notes on the nose. The medium flavors show cherry-berry and hints of cedar, 12.5% alcohol and a medium finish with ample fruit. Ready to drink now. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 3, 2012

Chateau St. Georges, Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($30, House of Burgundy):

A fairly big red wine that exudes elegance without heaviness. It has supple tannins and mouth-watering red berry and plum flavors. Although it should get even better with a little more time in the cellar, it most definitely offers pleasurable drinking right now.

Léo de la Gaffelière, Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2011 ($19, Luneau USA / Nicolas Wines): Château La Gaffelière is one of the leading properties in Saint-Emilion, making sensational wine year in and year out. As the competition at the top end of Bordeaux continues, the top properties make ever increasing severe selections to maintain the quality -- and price -- of the top wine. Wine that doesn’t make the grade goes into the Château’s second label. Well, as the prices of the second labels increase, the Château feel increasing pressure to maintain their quality by creating a third wine, Léo de la Gaffelière, in the case of Château La Gaffelière. But the third string of a great team can still play a strong game. This third wine is definitely worth your attention. Red fruit flavors mix with herbal notes and dance across the palate. The tannins that support the plushness are especially fine for a third wine and make it easy to enjoy now.
89 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013

Christian Moueix, Saint-Émilion (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($23, Kobrand): This is a nice wine, though not up to its stablemates from Pomerol or the Medoc in the initial release of this line from the 2005 vintage. Comprised of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, it shows dark berry and plum fruit notes, with undertones of minerals and cedar. 83 Michael Franz Nov 27, 2007

Chateau Gueyrosse, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($36, Wine Traditions, Ltd.):

A few swirls of this classically styled Right Bank blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon reveal an intoxicating blend of ripe blackberry, violets, and crushed bay leaf. The palate is a master class on extracting immense depth and polish. It is bursting with a dark-fruited core that is lifted by flavors of cedar, fresh tobacco, turned earth, and a hint of spice. The tannins are dusty and broad, creating a beautiful long finish. This will continue to evolve, soften, and captivate for many more years.
94 Miranda Franco Nov 24, 2020

Les Cadrans de Lassegue, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($30, Jackson Family Wines):

Good luck finding a better Bordeaux at this price! Les Cadrans de Lassegue delivers the goods from a Grand Cru site at half the price or less of any worthy competition, with rich, earthy character complementing classic Merlot aromas and flavors seamlessly. Additionally, the inclusion of 10% Cabernet Franc isn’t lost in the mix, showing cherry and mild herb hints, particularly in the finish. Nicely done!
94 Rich Cook Aug 18, 2020

Château Jean Faure, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($34):

Château Jean Faure resides in a swanky neighborhood with Cheval Blanc and La Dominque nearby. The wine estate consists of over 47 acres located on the Right Bank of Bordeaux at the border of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. Merlot is the primary grape in the region, but this Château grows more Cabernet Franc, 50 percent, with 45 percent Merlot and five percent Malbec. Marie-Laure Latorre is the General Manager of the estate. She explained in a recent webinar that Cabernet Franc “gives a lot of fresh fruit in the aromas and in the mouth, soft tannins and the most important thing that you notice is the freshness.” The wine displays a dark ruby color with a purple-pink tint in the rim. Forward spicey black cherry cassis aroma and flavors of red and black cherry, mingle with dusty mineral notes. It has a medium body supported by smooth, integrated tannins. It does indeed display freshness that will be welcome at any table, especially with grilled lamb chops.
93 Rebecca Murphy May 18, 2021

Lassegue, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2017 ($60, Jackson Family Wines):

Chateau Lassegue is a Right Bank gem operated by vignerons Pierre and Nicolas Seillan. This, the chateau’s flagship wine, is sourced from the hillsides surrounding the chateau and is undoubtedly one of the finest values in Bordeaux today. The 2017 vintage is nearly equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with a hint of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. The nose offers a hint of violets and spice, leading to a palate that is supple and smooth, richly layered red-fruit aromas, and a subtle note of wood spice. It needs another few years in the cellar to be at its best, but it will be worth the wait.
93 Robert Whitley Jan 12, 2021

Chateau Boutisse, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($36): Château Boutisse shows why St. Emilion has such a terrific reputation. Ripe fruit flavors are apparent, but not overdone. Most importantly, intriguing herbal notes balance the wine and add complexity. Overall, it’s graceful and long. The lushness of the 2009 vintage and resulting smooth ripe tannins makes it easy to enjoy now, especially with a steak. My experience with the wines from the Milhade stable, such as Château Boutisse, is that they develop beautifully with age. So don’t drink it all now.
91 Michael Apstein May 1, 2012

Les Cadrans de Lassegue, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($30, Jackson Family Wines):

This is one of the best values around in high class Bordeaux from a good vintage. A blend of 90 percent Merlot and 10 percent Cabernet Franc, Les Cadrans is the second label of Chateau Lassegue, the Right Bank property guided by the estimable Pierre Seillan. This vintage is plush and supple, showing aromas of black cherry, red fruits and wood spice, with nicely integrated tannins and impressive length on the finish. Drink now or over the next eight to ten years.
91 Robert Whitley Aug 4, 2020

Château Lassègue, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($52, Sovereign Wine Imports):

California meets Saint-Emilion in this broad-shouldered Merlot/Cabernet Franc-dominant blend. The unnecessarily heavy bottle predicts the wine’s style. Though mostly black fruit-driven at this stage, a lovely mineral tarriness appears in the finish. I suspect more complexity will appear with bottle age. For now, this voluptuous wine has a suave and supple texture that makes it a good choice for current consumption with a steak for those who gravitate to that style.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 11, 2022

Château Vignot, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($35, Acadia Imports): Fully mature, this example of right-bank Bordeaux is still available in some wine shops and on some internet sites. It’s nicely balanced, with medium weight, full dark fruit flavor, and cedary, graphite-like notes that give it complexity. Made in an old-fashioned Bordelais style, with firm tannins, it’s a classy red that will show its best if drunk with food as opposed to sipped on its own. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 2, 2010

Chateau Roc de Candale, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($36, Adler Fels Winery): With fine balance and integration and a classic Bordeaux profile, this wine offers a lot of complexity and versatility with food for an admirably modest price. Notes of black cherries and dark berries work nicely with notes of cedar and tobacco leaf.
89 Michael Franz May 8, 2007

Chateau Puy-Blanquet, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux) 2009 ($26, Maison Marques & Domaines): The vintage, while very good, has shut down in many cases and not showing the ripeness and flesh that characterized the wines in barrel a couple of years ago. Nevertheless, the '09 Puy-Blanquet exhibits excellent potential. It is nicely balanced and firmly structured, with tannins that will likely hold on a decade or more. The nose offers hints of violets and spice, and on the palate the wine shows notes of plum and black cherry. While very good at this stage, this wine has every right to improve over the next three to five years and represents outstanding value from a splendid vintage in Saint-Emilion.
88 Robert Whitley Apr 2, 2013

Château Monbousquet, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2017 ($71, Massanois):

Bordeaux is a maritime wine region, affected by the Atlantic to some extent, and this shows in this wine in the form of maritime iodine aromas. Forest-based accents are evident as well, along with resinous mint and green tobacco suggestions, finishing with oak-derived dark chocolate and dusky cinnamon notes. While not particularly “fruity," this wine is delicious and well balanced. Kindly don your dinner jacket or evening gown and join us in the salon's leather appointed arm chairs to discuss the wine further. The blend is 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
94 Andrew Holod Oct 31, 2023

Chateau Peby Faugeres, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($180, Blicker, Pierce, Wagner Wine Merchants):

Chateau Peby Faugeres’s St. Emilion Grand Cru consists of the best plots of Merlot from the Chateau’s clay-limestone soils. In Bordeaux, 2009 was an exceptional vintage and is highly sought after by wine aficionados and collectors. The result is a well balanced and complex wine that is just entering its prime drinking window. Notes of prune, potting soil, and chewing tobacco are balanced against equally powerful fig and luscious black cherry notes. Ultimately, this wine has plenty of complexity and depth for further aging but is certainly enjoyable now, with tertiary notes -- dried fruit and tobacco -- already showing, for those that want something on the younger side.
94 Vince Simmon Jul 12, 2022

Château Boutisse, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2019 ($41, Vintus):

Usually when you see “Grand Cru” on a label it represents a higher level in a classification or stratification of a region. Not so in Saint-Émilion where it is an appellation, not an indicator of quality. The appellations of Saint-Émilion and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru are identical geographically. The difference between the two is in winemaking/viticulture. Rules for Saint-Émilion Grand Cru require higher minimum alcohol levels (i.e., higher ripeness) and lower yields, among other things. That said, the youthful Château Boutisse is a high-quality wine. It is run by Élodie and Marc Milhade, part of a well-known Right Bank family that’s been making wine since 1938. Both fleshy, high percentage of Merlot speaking, and refined, the talented team speaking, it is fine for current drinking. My preference would be to cellar it for a few years to let the tannins, spice, and black fruit to integrate.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2023

Château Leydet-Valentin, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($47, Lanterna Distributors):

Grand Cru Saint-Émilion for under $50 is quite the steal, especially at this caliber. The 2016 Leydet Valentin is a blend of 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc. It unleashes lush cherry, framboise, and blue fruit, followed by another wave of cardamom, fragrant earth, and graphite. The palate is framed by soft, fine-grained tannins that allow each layer to glide into a savory dark-berried finish.
92 Miranda Franco Jun 28, 2022

Tertre du Moulin, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Cuvée Millésimée” 2019 ($20, Latitude Wines):

For family and friends seeking wine recommendations comparable to a California Red Blend, look no further. This is a great, ready-to-drink Bordeaux for $20. I found notes of red fruit, leather, and cedar. While less fruit-dominant than a California red blend, I found this to be of higher quality for the price.
89 Vince Simmon Mar 29, 2022

Château Pavie, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé “A" (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($440, Massanois):

This wine is impressive in many ways, starting with its status as a Grand Cru Classé “A" (the top ranking for wines from Saint-Émilion) along with its price, its heavyweight custom bottle, and its inky appearance in the glass. It also impresses with its concentration, richness and balance of minty black fruits and burnished tannins, presenting as perfectly coiffed. It is no doubt rich and luscious, and frankly I can't find any fault with the wine, but it leaves me unexcited. Maybe I am a bit plebeian in my views — after all, Lamborghinis are impressively powerful, but I would prefer for my daily driver to be less exotic and probably less powerful as well. My concern is that few of us can afford the time or money to see it age long enough to find complexity; in its current development it seems nearly monolithic.
93 Andrew Holod Oct 31, 2023

Chateau Ormes de Pez, Saint-Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2019 ($32):

A deep ruby color in the glass portends the deep black fruits wafting therefrom — black cherries, blackberries, and black plums, complimented by coarse mulch and leather. On the palate, fruit and earth meet again, with flavors of cherries and slate fading into a lingering bittersweet chocolate finish. Fine grained tannins provide structure while managing to be strikingly approachable, even at only a few years of age. Ormes de Pez represents an affordable entry point to the esteemed Saint-Estephe appellation that well out-drinks its price.
92 John McDermott Dec 12, 2023

Château Ormes de Pez, Saint-Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($43):

The village of Pez lies within the Saint-Estèphe appellation, just north of Pauillac in Bordeaux. Château Ormes de Pez is a noted Cru Bourgeois estate in the commune, and the 2020 red is a splendid example of the estate’s potential. Owned by the Cazes family of Château Lynch-Bages, the Ormes de Pez vineyards average 30 years of age and are planted on a variety of clay, sand and gravel soils. The 2020 Ormes de Pez is forward and ripe with blackberry, blackcurrant and red cherry fruits enhanced by hints of violet, cocoa, olives, herbs, vanilla and baking spices. This is a delicious red Bordeaux that shows the opulence of the 2020 harvest and is enjoyable now for its youthful exuberance. It will cellar well for another decade.
92 Wayne Belding Dec 5, 2023

Château Léoville Barton, Saint-Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2016 ($107):

The 2016 Bordeaux vintage was an excellent one, coming on the heels of the fine 2015 harvest. The top growths of Bordeaux have created universally fine wines in 2016 and this wine ranks among the best. Château Léoville Barton in Saint Julien produces top-notch Bordeaux at a relatively reasonable price given the quality of the wine and the formidable prices of its second-growth peers. The 2016 Léoville Barton shows a classic claret style. The bouquet is layered with blackcurrant, blackberry and plum fruits. This ripe opulence is underlain by cedar, graphite, violet, herb and toasty oak tones. The flavors are compellingly attractive even at this youthful stage. Layer upon layer of ripe fruit cascades across the palate, enhanced by an exotic range of herb, cedar, cigar-box, cocoa, smoke and baking spice nuances. The Léoville Barton once again exhibits a complex and harmonious style that will reward several decades of cellaring.
97 Wayne Belding Apr 2, 2019

Château Léoville-Barton, Saint-Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($119):

The top estates of Bordeaux have crafted universally fine wines in 2018 and the Léoville-Barton ranks among the best. Château Léoville-Barton in Saint Julien produces top-notch Bordeaux at a relatively reasonable price given the quality of the wine and the formidable prices of its second-growth peers. The 2018 Léoville-Barton is a paragon of Saint Julien style. The bouquet is layered with opulent blackcurrant, blackberry and plum fruits. The rich fruit is underlain by cedar, cocoa, violet, herb and toasty oak tones. The flavors are luscious and attractive even at this youthful stage. Layer upon layer of ripe fruit cascades across the palate, enhanced by an exotic range of herb, cedar, cigar-box, cocoa and baking spice nuances. The 2018 Léoville-Barton offers a complex and harmonious style that will reward several decades of cellaring.
96 Wayne Belding Aug 24, 2021

Château Léoville-Barton, Saint-Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($115):

The top estates of Bordeaux have crafted universally fine wines in 2020 and the Léoville-Barton ranks among the best. Given the current pricing for top-quality Bordeaux, Château Léoville-Barton in St. Julien is offered at a relatively reasonable price, well below the cost of its "Second Growth" peers. The 2020 Léoville-Barton is a beautiful rendition of St. Julien style. The bouquet is layered with opulent blackcurrant, blackberry and plum fruits. The rich fruit is underscored by cocoa, violet, herb and toasty oak nuances. When tasted, layer upon layer of ripe fruit cascades across the palate, enhanced by an exotic range of herb, cedar, tobacco, cocoa and baking spice hints. The 2020 Léoville-Barton is a classic St. Julien and offers a complex and harmonious style that will reward several decades of cellaring.
96 Wayne Belding Jan 9, 2024

Château Léoville Barton, Saint-Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($105):

The 2015 Bordeaux harvest was a universally good one. Most vintners were able to capture an extra dollop of ripeness while retaining balance in the wines. Château Léoville Barton in Saint Julien produces top-notch Bordeaux at a relatively reasonable price given the quality of the wine and the formidable prices of its second-growth peers. The 2015 Léoville Barton is once more among the top wines of the harvest and shows a classic claret style. The bouquet is rich with blackcurrant, plum and blackberry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of cedar, violets, herbs and toasty oak. The flavors are elegant and supple, with layers of plush black fruits interwoven with the herb, vanilla and spice tones. The wine exhibits a harmonious style even in its youth, and the 2015 Château Léoville Barton will provide delicious drinking for decades.
95 Wayne Belding Jun 19, 2018

Château Lagrange, Saint-Julien (Médoc, Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($55):

The 2015 vintage for red Bordeaux is, by and large, wonderful. In general, the wines deliver ripe flavors accompanied by sufficient structure -- tannins and acidity -- that prevent them from falling all over themselves. Château Lagrange, which has just gone from strength to strength over the last two decades, made an impressive wine in 2015. A lovely herbal component balances the red and black fruit flavors. The structure is apparent and welcome without intruding. Its charm and grandeur are apparent in its graceful finish. Yes, it’s enjoyable now, but this wine should evolve gracefully over the next decade or two so save room in the cellar. Château Lagrange is always one of the best values among the Grand Cru Classé of Bordeaux, and the 205 is no exception, because it is a large estate and it still fails to have the reputation that it deserves. With wines like their 2015, that situation won’t last for long.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018

Château Léoville-Barton, Saint-Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($109):

The 2008 Bordeaux vintage is a harvest that is often overlooked. The wines were made during an economic downturn and the vintage lacked the effusive praise offered for the 2009 and 2010 harvests. The 2008 clarets are still available in the market and are well worth investigation. They offer a lighter style for claret lovers and the best wines show a fine balance of fruit and tannin. The wines have shed their youthful tannins and are beginning to show their best now. For most of the last three decades, Château Léoville-Barton has been producing top-notch Bordeaux at a relatively reasonable cost given the quality of the wine and the formidable prices of its second-growth peers. The 2008 is a delicious example of Saint-Julien style and shows a classic claret character with blackcurrant, plum and blackberry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of cedar, violets, herbs and toasty oak. The flavors are elegant and supple, with the plush black fruits interwoven with the herb, vanilla and spice tones. As it is maturing, the 2008 Château Léoville-Barton shows a perfectly harmonious style and will provide delicious drinking for yet another decade and beyond.
93 Wayne Belding Oct 13, 2020

Château Talbot, Saint-Julien (Bordeaux, France) "Connétable" 2018 ($50):

Château Talbot has consistently been a good value for top-end Bordeaux. Though classified as a 4th Growth in the 1855 Médoc Classification, its recent vintages effectively rank higher. Talbot’s 2nd wine, the 2018 Connétable, is especially noteworthy because of its luxurious texture and enjoyment it brings now. Second wines typically come from young vines or certain plots on the estate that traditionally don’t perform as well as others. They usually are less complex with less fine tannins, which gives them a coarser texture. The suaveness of the 2018 Connétable is remarkable. It has the finesse you’d expect from Saint-Julien, with a healthy dollop of black fruit and spice. Its silky texture allows immediate enjoyment. So, if you want to see why people swoon over Bordeaux, grab a bottle of the 2018 Connétable and uncork it with a steak. It’s a bargain for what it delivers.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2023

Château Magdelaine, St. Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($102): Château Magdelaine, one of only two properties in St. Emilion owned by the Pomerol-focused Moueix family, has always been one of my favorites from that appellation. The 2010 is particularly appealing with a glorious and impeccably balanced mixture of floral, fruity and mineral components wrapped in fine firm tannins. This young wine needs time -- a decade or more -- but you will be happy it’s in your cellar. Of note, in September of 2012, Edouard Moueix, who manages the property, announced they were incorporating the property into the other Moueix-owned St. Emilion and its neighbor, Château Belair-Monange, and keeping the latter’s name, so the 2011 vintage is Magdelaine’s last.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2015

Château Magdelaine, St. Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($100, Maison Marques and Domaines):

Christian Moueix has been upgrading this property that his father purchased in 1952. Planted with a very high proportion of Merlot 90% with the remainder Cabernet Franc, the 2004 is quite forward and approachable now with supple tannins and alluring leafy/earthy elements mixed with nicely proportioned red fruit flavors. It's a classic style--not a 'new wave'--St. Emilion that I suspect will close down in a year or two and then emerge with even more complexity in a decade. My advice is to drink it now or be prepared to wait. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 24, 2008

Château Simard, St. Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($24, Wilson Daniels): Château Simard is a claret lover’s treasure. It is rare indeed to find a red Bordeaux that is not released until nearly ten years after the vintage. That has always been the case with Château Simard. The blend is Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%), and the vinification process is very unusual because the wine is not aged in oak. It is fermented in concrete tanks and spends most of its time aging in bottle before release. The result is a plush and smooth Bordeaux that shows the velvety aura of maturity but still has a vibrant fruit core. The wine shows blackcurrant, plum and black cherry fruits interwoven with hints of violets, tobacco, earth and tea. Layered and soft on the palate, it will provide great drinking for another decade. It’s a real bargain to find a decade-old Bordeaux of this quality for this price.
90 Wayne Belding Sep 16, 2014

Château Simard, St. Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($38, Wilson Daniels):

It is rare indeed to find a red Bordeaux that is not released until nearly ten years after the vintage. That has always been the case with Château Simard. The vinification process is very unusual because the wine is not aged in oak. It is fermented in concrete tanks and spends most of its time aging in bottle before release. The result is a plush and smooth Bordeaux that shows the velvety aura of maturity but still has a vibrant fruit core. The wine shows the opulence of the 2009 harvest, with ripe blackcurrant, plum and black cherry fruits interwoven with hints of violets, tobacco, earth and tea. The blend is Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%). Layered and soft on the palate, it will provide great drinking for another decade. 89 Wayne Belding Oct 10, 2017

Château Boutisse, St. Émilion (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($37, Ex Cellars Wine Agency):

There is probably more variation in quality in St. Émilion than in any other similarly sized appellation in Bordeaux, which makes buying them without knowing the specific property dicey. You can buy the 2005 Château Boutisse without hesitation. Earthy, plush and quite long, it reflects the stature of the appellation and underscores why wines from this village are so popular. It has great aromatics and succulent fruit mingled with a hint of chocolate. The fines silky tannins allow you to enjoy it now, but cellaring it for several years will bring additional pleasure.

Château Lassègue, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Lassègue” 2005 ($150, Sovereign Wine Imports):

The 2005 vintage was exceptional in Bordeaux, and, indeed, throughout France. The weather was perfect throughout the growing season. The right amount of sun and the right amount of rain at the right time brought the grapes to perfect maturity. Harvest occurred under sunny dry conditions so the grapes came to the winery in ideal condition. Château Lassègue, recently acquired by California’s Jess Jackson group, decided to hold back this wine, their top of the line bottling, until they felt it was ready, which explains why it’s their current release. Very aromatic -- the aromas fill the room when you pull the cork -- it shows the beauty of Bordeaux. The superb balanced combination of ripe fruit flavors offset by herbaceous earthy notes delights the palate. A lovely subtle bitterness in the mouth-watering finish cries for food. Glossy, but firm tannins, allow you to drink it now with simply grilled lamb chops -- a simple preparation allows the complexity and glory of this wine to shine. As enjoyable as it is now, it still has plenty of evolution to go, so there’s no rush. Save some space in your cellar for this graceful wine.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 9, 2014

Château Lassègue, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Les Cadrans de Lassègue” 2012 ($29, Jackson Family Wines):

This, the second wine of Château Lassègue, a property in the Jackson Family portfolio, is a marvelous buy. More polished than many second wines, it conveys a savory, almost funky -- in a nice way -- complement to its bright fruity flavors. The distinction with the first wine is in its ever so slightly coarser texture. That said the tannins are still fine, which makes easy to recommend for current drinking with robust meat, such as lamb chops. This is classy Bordeaux at a bargain price.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2016

Château Corbin, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($45, David Milligan Selections): Château Corbin lies on the border of Pomerol and St. Emilion with one of its vineyards bordering those of Château Bon Pasteur. As with most right bank wines, it is a blend of Merlot (80%) and Cabernet Franc (20%). The lushness and ripe tannins characteristic of the Merlot in 2005 give it finesse and elegance while the earthy flavors and backbone come from ripe Cabernet Franc. The combination of deep red fruit flavors coupled with leafy earthiness and polished tannins makes it easy to recommend. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 29, 2008

Château Bellefont-Belcier, St. Emilion Grand Cru Classé (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($42):

St. Emilion is among the most productive of all Bordeaux appellations and a source of outstanding wines in the 2015 vintage. Château Bellefont-Belcier is one of sixty or so estates with the Grand Cru Classé designation. Their 2015 is one of the top wines of the appellation and shows a classic St. Emilion style with blackcurrant, blackberry and a touch of red cherry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of roasted coffee, violets, herbs and toasty oak. The flavors are round, elegant and supple, with the plush black and red fruits interwoven with the herb, vanilla and spice tones. The wine exhibits a harmonious style even in its youth, and the 2015 Château Bellefont-Belcier will provide delicious drinking for the next decade and beyond. A blend of 68% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon.
92 Wayne Belding Jan 9, 2018

Château Phélan Ségur, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2014 ($40): Under Véronique Dausse’s management Château Phélan Ségur has catapulted into the top ranks. Her team produced a positively gorgeous wine in 2014. Though refined and polished, it retained the attractive gritty earthiness that makes the wines of St. Estèphe so engaging. At $40 a bottle, it is one of the best buys of the vintage.
94 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Château Phélan-Ségur, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($54):

The wines from the 2008 vintage in Bordeaux are overlooked because they were firm upon release and were followed by the opulent and immediately appealing 2009s and then the refined and stylish 2010s. But, as is always the case, talented producers, such as Château Phélan-Ségur, make excellent wines even in less revered years. And this is one very good, easy-to-recommend 2008. With refined dusty tannins and a gorgeous texture, it still conveys the earthy character of St. Estèphe. It would be perfect with a grilled steak tonight, but given its balance and structure, there’s plenty of room for development, so there’s no rush. And given the prices of the classified Bordeaux and even the top Napa Valley Cabernets, this 2008 is a bargain.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Château de Pez, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($43, Maisons Marques and Domaines):

The beauty of the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux shows in this wine. There’s the quintessential gritty earthiness of St. Estèphe, but with a polish and suppleness that is unusual for a young wine from that appellation. Gorgeous aromas pour from the glass and are followed by an equally attractive combination of black fruit, spice and earth that persist into a long finish. A beauty now with a steak or other grilled meat, it should evolve and develop wonderfully over the next decade. Here’s betting few will wait. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 18, 2011

Château Haut-Beausejour, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($30, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): For those searching for bargains among the sensational 2005 vintage in Bordeaux, reach for Château Haut-Beausejour. Wonderfully ripe, it has a plushness that is unusual for St. Estèphe, whose wines frequently come across as much tougher. An exotic, herbal nose carries through onto the palate and balances the rich black fruit flavors. Very expressive at this stage, it's hard to resist, although it has the requisite balance and structure to age effortlessly for more than a decade. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 24, 2008

Château Tour de Pez, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($23): This is the kind of wine that made Bordeaux famously popular in the past and could be the kind to revive people’s interest in Bordeaux. Unusually charming for a young wine from St. Estèphe, it leads with herbal aromas followed by plenty of intensity without pandering to over ripeness. Indeed, the non-fruit flavors -- minerality or earthiness -- explain its appeal. Despite its power, it is refined. The tannins are unusually polished for a St. Estèphe, making the wine ideal for current drinking with a steak hot off the grill.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015

Château de Pez, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($45, Maisons Marques and Domaines): This property, classified as a Cru Bourgeois, continues to produce distinctive wines. Characteristic of the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux, this wine offers succulent ripeness without obliterating the underlying firm and slightly dusty character of St. Estèphe. Add that to the suaveness and length expected from the vintage, and you have an attractively-priced winner for your cellar. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 1, 2008

Château de Pez, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($36, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Many of the red wines from the initially much-heralded 2003 vintage are maturing quite rapidly and this vintage may not turn out to live up to the potential many ascribed to it. The silver lining is that wines that normally need a decade to unfold are showing mature flavors already. Château de Pez (always deserving of its Cru Bourgeois classification) delivers dried fruit notes atop earthy nuances. The wine is nicely balanced with none of the sense of over extraction that plagued some wines from this vintage. The tannins lend support and there's enough acidity to keep it fresh. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 16, 2008

Château Haut-Beauséjour, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($27, Maisons Marques and Domaines): The 2004 vintage in Bordeaux will always be overlooked, overshadowed by the 2005s. In a way, that represents an opportunity for consumers because the vintage produced some excellent wines. Haut-Beauséjour, like its stablemate, Chateau de Pez, manages to deliver wines that are remarkably ripe without eliminating the underlying characteristics of the specific appellation. Its combination of suaveness, earthy black currant nuances and herbal notes make it attractive for current drinking. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 1, 2008

Cos d’Estournel, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($100, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Overall, this is a ripe and well-balanced wine true to its St. Estèphe origins. With layers of underlying flavors--meaty, smoky and black fruit--it has ample stuffing to hold up against the fine-grained but abundant tannins. It's a good candidate for a decade in the cellar. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 24, 2008

Cos d’Estournel, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($250, Maisons Marques and Domaines):

Reflective of the heat and drought of 2003, this wine exhibits very ripe, almost jammy or stewed fruit character. The enormous tannins are dense--but not astringent--and make the wine almost impenetrable at this stage. This is an atypical Cos d'Estournel, the concentration and size of which overshadows the usual dusty, spicy, earthy character of St. Estephe. 87.
87 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008

Pagodes de Cos, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($42, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Second wines from the classified Bordeaux chateaux are becoming

increasingly popular as the prices of the first wines continue to rise. Often they are good buys, especially in the great vintages, such as 2005, and ready to drink sooner than the chateau's first wine. Although the Pagodes, the second wine of Cos d'Estournel, is attractively priced for a wine from a classified chateau, the dusty, drying tannins typical of wines from St. Estephe overwhelm the black currant-like fruit flavors at this stage and suggest that several more years are necessary before it becomes accessible. 85 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2008

Château Lagrange, St. Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($75, Diageo Chateau & Estate):

One of the great aspects of the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux is that the wines reflect their origins; the Pauillacs taste like Pauillac and, as in this case, Château Lagrange shows its St. Julien pedigree. Lagrange's blend in 2005--Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (45%) and Petit Verdot (10%)--is a little unusual for St. Julien, whose wines typically rely more on Cabernet. Nonetheless, it coveys cedar and tobacco elements combined with cassis-like black fruit flavors and a hint of minerality characteristic of St. Julien. Its tannins are ripe and polished, which makes it easy to embrace now, but judging from my experience with Lagrange, it will develop even more complexity over the next 20 years. 95 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008

Chateau Gruaud Larose, St. Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2003 ($60, Diageo):

Great wines -- such as the 2003 Gruaud Larose -- have power, elegance and length. The layers of succulent black fruit flavors are matched by supple tannins. Delicious to taste now, it will be wonderful to drink in another decade or two. 94 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2006

Château Léoville-Barton, St. Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($79):

The 2012 Bordeaux harvest offers a lighter style for claret lovers and the best wines show a fine balance of fruit and tannin. It is a vintage to buy for those whose budgets cannot accommodate the $100 - $200+ price tags on many famous Bordeaux estates. For most of the last three decades, Château Léoville-Barton has been producing top-notch Bordeaux at a relatively reasonable cost given the quality of the wine and the formidable prices of its second-growth peers. The 2012 is one of the top wines of the harvest and shows a classic claret style with blackcurrant, plum and blackberry fruit aromas enhanced by elements of cedar, violets, herbs and toasty oak. The flavors are elegant and supple, with the plush black fruits interwoven with the herb, vanilla and spice tones. The wine exhibits a harmonious style even in its youth, and the 2012 Château Léoville-Barton will provide delicious drinking for the next decade and beyond.
93 Wayne Belding May 12, 2015

Château Gruaud Larose, St. Julien (Bordeaux) 2006 ($80): The 2006 vintage in Bordeaux, another one that risks being lost by its more praised predecessor, gives Bordeaux lovers a chance to buy at reasonable--at least by Cru Classé standards--prices. The vintage itself was excellent overall with some properties making better wines than in the more acclaimed 2005. The 2006 Gruaud Larose, a muscular wine with great power, also has exceptional polish. This Cabernet Sauvignon-based beauty has firm, but not aggressive tannins, and just a hint of tarry earthiness to complement its dark black-fruited profile. It’s starting to show a hint of maturity, and would be fine with a grilled steak tonight, but it will benefit from another decade of cellaring to show its real grandeur and complexity.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2013

Château Lagrange, St. Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($45): The 2008 vintage in Bordeaux, like 2001, is slipping under consumers’ radar screens as they anxiously await the far more hyped 2009s. That’s

good news for those of us who like excellent wine and good wine prices. Château Lagrange has been on a roll since Marcel Ducasse was brought in to run it after Suntory, the Japanese drinks company, purchased it in 1983. Ducasse retired after the 2006 vintage, leaving Bruno Eynard, who had been the estate’s technical director for the previous 17 years, in charge. If anything, the wines have gotten even better under Eynard’s leadership. Despite, the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend (72%) since the 2000 vintage, the 2008 is plush and graceful, with finely polished tannins. It delivers what has become the hallmark of Lagrange--an engaging combination of ripe sweet fruit and structure, with elegance and length. Ducasse, and now Eynard, have resisted the current trend to make big Bordeaux, opting to retain the grace and charm that St. Julien offers. Certainly enjoyable now, it will likely close down over the next year or two. So pop the cork now or plan to cellar it for a decade. You won’t be disappointed. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011

Château Léoville-Poyferré, St. Julien (Bordeaux, France) 1996 ($80, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines): Although it might be true that recent Bordeaux vintages don't possess the longevity of former years, certainly 1996 (and 2000) are the exceptions. The vintage of 1996 is clearly a vin d'garde, and its best wines will easily live for 30 years or more. The 1996 Léoville-Poyferré, a Classified Second Growth from St.-Julien in the Haut-Médoc, is a case in point. Its aromas exhibit strong notes of lead pencil and cedar, with hints of dark plum fruit and leather. It is medium- to full-bodied, with high acidity, soft tannins, a velvety texture, and concentrated black plum fruit flavors. Although enjoyable now, it is not nearly at its peak. I'd try it again in five years. 92 Ed McCarthy Nov 22, 2005

Les Fiefs de Lagrange, St. Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($23): Les Fiefs, the second wine of Château Lagrange, is a consistently great bargain. The 2008 is no exception. Always fruitier and more approachable than Lagrange itself, the family resemblance is apparent with its elegance and grace. Despite unusually high amount of Petit Verdot in the blend (14%), which lends an appealing concentration, the 2008 Les Fiefs still retains finesse of St. Julien and would not be confused with a New World fruit bomb. Lovely now, it too, like the grand vin, will likely close down in a year or two, so drink it now or cellar it for five years or so. The 2008 is a particularly good buy. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011

Chateau Roc de Candale, St-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2004 ($36, Adler Fels Winery): The 2004 vintage in Bordeaux, despite its quality, is likely to be forever in the shadows of 2003 and 2005 and priced attractively. This engaging wine certainly is. Roc de Candale is the second label of Chateau Candale, which means that wine not suitable for the 'grand vin' ended up here. At first blush, you might be tempted to pass on wine that didn't make the cut, but that would be a mistake because not only are second labels less expensive, but more importantly, they are ready to drink much sooner than the grand vin. This is a case in point. The 2004 Chateau Candale, still a baby, needs time for its tannic shell to mellow, whereas Roc de Candale, the second label, is glorious now. Made from 90 percent Merlot, it is lush and forward, but remarkably layered, with good structure. Earthy notes add intrigue and remind you that Merlot, when planted in the right spots, can make sumptuous wine 92 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2007

Mouton Cadet, Bordeaux (France) Rosé 2015 ($12): This Bordeaux showstopper is a blend of traditional varieties including 53% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon. A rich hue of blush, this lovely wine offers notes of red currant, raspberry and ruby red grapefruit with a touch of faint sage at the end. Supple fruit on the palate is followed with bright kiss of fleshy lemon and a lingering finish. This vibrantly fruity rosé would pair well with lighter fare such as grilled salmon with pearl tomato, feta and pearl couscous salad.
93 Jessica Dupuy Apr 12, 2016

Chateau de Sours, Bordeaux (France) Rosé 2012 ($17, Old Bridge Cellars): We don’t see many rosés from Bordeaux, something the folks from Chateau de Sours are working to change. And, if their 2012 is representative of their rose revival efforts, they should be very successful. What delicious fun with a beautiful and enticing salmon pink color that promises springtime in the glass. Fetching, strawberry, berry fruit with a whisper of red currant is invigorated with frisky acidity. Add this one to you spring and summer entertaining. 89 Rebecca Murphy May 28, 2013

Chateau de Sours, Bordeaux Rosé (France) 2012 ($16, Old Bridge Cellars): The vast amount of wine produced in Bordeaux is red. Another 20 percent or so is white, which leaves little room for rosé. But there is some, made from the usual red Bordeaux grapes. In this instance, a blend of Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Franc come together to produce a simple, yet rewarding, dry lightweight rosé, perfect for summer lunches or other light meals.
86 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2013

French Blue, Crémant de Bordeaux (France) Brut NV ($27, C. Mondavi & Family):

Blended from 80% Merlot, 13% Semillon, and 7% Muscadelle, this is very well made, with soft texture but quite energetic mousse. There’s a lot of yeasty character to ride alongside the primary fruit notes, and the two are nicely proportioned. It is a fair question whether Bordeaux varieties can make renditions of Crémant that can hold their own against what Burgundy producers work with, but likewise a fair answer that when sparkling winemaking is quite skillful, that variable can over-ride other production factors. Quite impressive.
92 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2023

Louis Vallon, Crémant de Bordeaux (France) Brut NV ($14, Bridges Imports):

Louis Vallon is the name of a wine produced by a cooperative winery that specializes in the production of traditional method sparkling wines in Bordeaux. It is made of a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Sémillon, with a touch of Muscadelle. Light and lively, it has very tiny bubbles, light yeasty citrus aromas and subtle green apple, citrus flavors with light toasty notes. For the quality delivered at this price, you can serve it proudly at all your holiday events.
91 Rebecca Murphy Dec 5, 2023

French Blue, Crémant de Bordeaux (France) Brut NV ($25, C. Mondavi & Family):

There seems to be a revival, or perhaps an American discovery, of the various regional crémants from around France, and those of Bordeaux are among the best for everyday drinking. This is an easy-drinking one with pleasant, tangy, crisp-apple fruit, some metallic minerality and a medium body. All is all, a very food-friendly bubbly.
89 Roger Morris Feb 21, 2023

Château Coutet, Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($75):

The wines from Barsac and Sauternes are undervalued compared to red Bordeaux because drinking these sweet wines at the end of a meal with, or better yet, as dessert, is falling out of fashion. It’s a pity because a glass by itself or with a morsel of cheese is a perfect way to finish a meal. At a recent tasting sponsored by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, an association of 132 top-notch producers throughout the region, Château Coutet’s 2009 stood out, not only among the sweet wines, but among all the wines, even the big name Bordeaux reds. Not surprisingly, the 2009 Château Coutet was gloriously rich with undertones of apricots and spice, but its vivacity and energy is what set it apart. Long and luxurious, its bracing acidity and verve keeps you coming back for another sip because your palate never tires. Recorked and stored in the frig, the 2009 Coutet will stay fresh and thrilling for a week, so don’t be afraid to pour yourself just a glass.
97 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012

Château Climens, Barsac (Sauternes, Bordeaux, France) 2002 ($74):

As the table of guests sipped this sweet wine with a cheese course they fell silent. Animated conversation drew to a halt -- all that was heard was “ah” or “wow, this is good!” Sweet wines in general, and Sauternes in particular, are an under-appreciated category. The 2002 Climens, one of the stars of Barsac, an appellation that is included in the broader Sauternes appellation, has developed gorgeous layered flavors of honey and dried fruits. It expands in the glass. Its racy invigorating acidity, not its sweetness, is what makes it such a joy to drink -- your palate never tires of it. Perfectly balanced, neither cloying nor syrupy, it’s a treat with cheese or as dessert. A half-bottle will serve 4 to 6 people easily.
96 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2016

Château Coutet, Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2014 ($44): Sweet wines, such as this one, need to be judged on their verve and acidity, not just their luxurious richness. On that count, the 2014 Château Coutet is a winner. It has plenty of energy to balance its honeyed character so it’s not cloying at all, but rather refreshing. And long. I prefer to serve these luscious sweet wines with cheese or by themselves as desert. Paired with a sweet course often detracts from both the food and the wine. Half bottles (375 ml) of are especially useful since one will serve four easily.
95 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Château Haut Bertinerie, Blaye Cotes du Bordeaux (France) Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($27, Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants):

Pre-fermentation skin contact maceration, fermentation in new oak barrels, and 11 months of lees aging come together to give this old-vine Sauvignon Blanc a full-bodied, creamy texture and golden hue. Typical Sauvignon Blanc characteristics are on full display, including grass, lemon zest, and stony minerality, finding themselves immersed in honey suckle, baked apple, and mango. The wine’s rich texture, vibrant flavors, and still zippy acidity nicely balance out the relatively high 13.5% alcohol. This wine is a great example of what is possible in the Côtes de Bordeaux, and it will surely continue to improve with age.
92 John McDermott Aug 22, 2023

Chateau Doisy-Daène, Bordeaux (France) Sauvignon Blanc 2004 ($24, Elite Wines): Lively on the palate and luminous in both appearance and character, this 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc from respected vintner Denis Dubourdieu is a stellar example of how good white wine from Bordeaux can be. The Doisy-Daène may be softer and gentler than New Zealand interpretations of the varietal, but it's definitely blessed with the crisp finish one looks for in topnotch Sauvignon Blanc. 92 Marguerite Thomas Mar 28, 2006

Chateau Reynier, Bordeaux (France) 2015 ($18, Five Grapes):

How can one resist a classy white wine that is tasty, refreshing, food-friendly and affordable? Don’t even try to resist -- just get yourself some of this lovely white wine as soon as possible. Made from the classic white Bordeaux blend of Sauvignon Blanc (60%), Semillon (30%) and Muscadelle (10%), Chateau Renier delivers soft fruity aromas and flavors perfectly balanced by zip of acidity.
92 Marguerite Thomas Jul 14, 2020

Chateau Thieuley, Bordeaux (France) Sauvignon - Semillon “Cuvée Francis Courselle” 2019 ($15):

This family owned winery in Entre Deux Mers was revived in the 1950s, and today, after vineyard expansion, is one of most reliable names for good value red and white wines. Now under the direction of the Courselle sisters, the winery produces several whites from different AOCs. This 50-50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon is by far the richest and the most concentrated in style. The aromas are a mix of lemon and ripe pear with a hint of spice. The zesty lemon theme continues with fruit flavors that are lively and well-balanced, leading to a lengthy finish. The Semillon adds plushness and texture usually found in higher priced white Bordeaux.
92 Norm Roby Nov 16, 2021

Clos des Lunes, Bordeaux (France) “Lune D’Argent” Grand Vin Blanc Sec 2022 ($19, Misa Imports):

Clos des Lunes was founded in 2011 by Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, well-known for both its red and white Graves wines. However, the historic vineyard for Clos des Lune is located within the region of Sauternes, with vineyards overlooking Château Guiraud and other big names. This 2022 is made from 30-year-old vines and is a blend of 70% Semillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc. Aging was performed in stainless tanks and in 25% small French oak for one year, and the wine was aged on its lees. The result is an unusual white Bordeaux with rich texture and depth of flavors. Bringing together fresh flowers, green tea, and citrus on the nose, it is round and plush on the palate. With flavors of apricot and a hint of pineapple, it finishes with a hint of honey and has just enough acidity to keep it fresh. Excellent value.
91 Norm Roby Oct 24, 2023

Calvet, Bordeaux (France) Sauvignon Blanc “Limited Release” 2017 ($17):

Calvet is a venerable French négociant company that focuses on Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc. Zingy citrus aromas and flavors dominate here, but hints of pineapple and peach add further dimension to the flavors. Sauvignon Blanc’s natural acidity is persistent in this wine, which makes it an excellent choice to pair with oysters and other shellfish, and with its generous fruity-to-tart ratio it’s also a good partner for densely textured vegetarian dishes such as beans and grains.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 29, 2020

Chateau Thieuley, Bordeaux (France) Blanc "Cuvée Francis Courselle" 2004 ($15, Grape Expectations): Francis Courselle, who took over the winery operations from his father 30 years ago, is now sharing the work with his daughters Marie and Sylvie. I can't recommend Thieuly wines highly enough, both for their reasonable prices and outstanding flavors. This barrel fermented version of the firm's basic Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon blend is richer on the palate but is still gratifyingly refreshing, with plenty of citrus and hints of tropical fruit, along with a fine impression of minerals on the finish. Since I've tasted a few older vintages of this wine, I know that it generally ages well for 8 years or so. 90 Marguerite Thomas Jan 9, 2007

Chateau Petit Moulin, Bordeaux (France) 2008 ($14, Margaux & Company): A very attractive white Bordeaux, showing varietally true Sauvignon Blanc flavors. With more weight on the palate than many similar-tasting wines, it in all probability will prove very versatile at the dinner table. Restaurateurs should take note. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 17, 2009

Chateau Thieuley, Bordeaux (France) Blanc 2005 ($10, Grape Expectations):

Talk about quality / value ratio! For about ten bucks, this Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon blend is fresh and light, but it has enough flesh on its lean bones to provide a distinctly pleasurable sensation in the mouth. The estate is situated about 25 kilometers east of the town of Bordeaux, in the geographic area of Entre-Deux-Mers. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jan 9, 2007

Chateau de Parenchére, Bordeaux (France) 2009 ($10): For most of us looking at a wine label, the juxtaposition of the two words “Chateau” and “Bordeaux” may set off a mental alarm bell signaling that it we’d be out a chunk of change if we purchased this particular bottle. But check out Chateau de Parenchére for a pleasant surprise: a bottle will set you back a mere $10, which seems a bargain indeed for such a delightful white wine. Made from Bordeaux’s classic white wine grapes, Parenchére’s fragrance is lightly floral without being too intense. On the palate the wine is both vibrant and silky, and it finishes on a pleasantly dry note. Infinitely more elegant and refreshing than the run-of-the-mill inexpensive white wines the region has traditionally produced, Chateau de Parenchére is an excellent example of how tasty a modern Bordeaux vin blanc can be. 88 Marguerite Thomas Aug 31, 2010

Château de Sours, Bordeaux (France) “La Fleur d’Amelie” 2011 ($15, Old Bridge Cellars): Consumers seem to forget that Bordeaux makes white wines as well as red, which is too bad, since they can offer both a different expression of Sauvignon Blanc and great value. In addition to the refreshing pungency inherent to that grape, which makes up almost half the blend in this wine, the inclusion of Semillon adds depth and body. The blend results in a wine that will cut through the summer’s humidity and stand up to highly flavored seafood dishes without breaking the bank.
88 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2013

Château Thieuley, Bordeaux (France) Sauvignon Semillon 2006 ($12, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): This is a surprisingly complex white Bordeaux for the price. Bowing to the American custom of varietal labeling, the front label announces the classical Bordeaux blend. The Semillon fleshes out the Sauvignon Blanc without obliterating it. The result is a refreshing, bright white wine around a core of creamy suaveness. My advice: buy it by the case. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

Clos des Lunes, Bordeaux (France) “Lune Blanche” 2019 ($20, Monsieur Touton Selection):

The Barnard family, owners of the stellar Domaine de Chevalier, one of the top estates in Pessac Léognan, owns Clos des Lunes, a property located in the Sauternes region of Bordeaux. The care they take with their wines from Domaine de Chevalier show in their dry white wines from Clos des Lunes. Though located in Sauternes, the label cannot carry that appellation because Sauternes producers are prohibited from making dry wines under the rules of that appellation. Hence, the less prestigious designation of, simply, Bordeaux. In the tradition of Sauternes though, the blend of Clos des Lunes’ wines is predominantly Semillon. This one, Lune Blanche, is really their second wine and bottled under screwcap. (The first wine is labeled Lune d’Argent). What a nice second wine it is. Delicate and balanced, you feel the creaminess of Semillon offset by a hint of bite of Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a good match for this summer’s seafood.
88 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023

Chateau de Lunay, Bordeaux (France) Blanc 2004 ($23, Acadia Imports): Nicely balanced between fresh notes and toasty, spicy notes from oak, this wine is based on relatively rich fruit recalling melons, with a little crisp citrus around the edges. Pair with moderately robust finfish dishes. 87 Michael Franz Jun 5, 2007

Marquis de Bacalan, Bordeaux AOC (France) Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($30):

The biggest issue that holds back Bordeaux blanc in the U.S. is price. The top classified chateaux of Graves or Pessac Leognan often charge more for their white wines than their reds. The solution for fans of white Bordeaux is simple if you know where to look. This Bordeaux AOC white is a superb example of what the region is capable of beyond the famous chateaux. Offering juicy, ripe aromas of white peach and pear, with a splash of wood spice and mouth-watering acidity, this one's a beauty at a modest price. A platinum award-winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Robert Whitley Jan 31, 2017

Marquis de Bacalan, Bordeaux AOC (France) Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ($30):

This same house produced a Platinum award at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge with its 2015 vintage. The 2016 is every bit as good, which come as no surprise. The growing season in Bordeaux got off to a stormy start, but warm, dry weather throughout the summer led to a remarkably good harvest. The Marquis de Bacalan is a gorgeous Bordeaux blanc, rich and luscious on the palate, showing ripe white peach and citrus notes with a touch of spice on the finish. A Platinum award-winner at the 2017 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 95 Robert Whitley May 30, 2017

Château Guiraud, Bordeaux Blanc (Bordeaux, France) “G" 2019 ($20, Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.):

Château Guiraud is located in the Sauternes appellation of Bordeaux. You may recall that the Sauternes region is famous for its pricy, late harvest, botrytis-affected white wines made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. What you may not recall is that many of the estates in Sauternes also make a dry wine. According to Luc Planty, the estate’s technical director (think general manager plus head winemaker), “This is not a typical Bordeaux Blanc Sec. It comes from the Sauternes terroir, one of the best terroirs in Bordeaux for white wine, sweet and dry.” He was speaking at the webinar “Earth Day Heroes” to discuss sustainable practices in Bordeaux. Although they have farmed the vines organically since 1996, Château Guiraud was the first grand cru classé estate in Sauternes to obtain organic certification in 2011. This is an ethereal wine with a pale yellow color, enticing aromas of baked apple, citrus, melon and a touch of lime zest, are followed by light, bright, delicate flavors of citrus, apple, peach perfectly balanced with citrusy acidity. It is a half and half blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with 80 percent of the wine fermented in first growth Sauternes white wine barrels. Planty said, “I love it, of course, because I made it, but it is very difficult to have a tasting with you to tell you what to smell, what you can taste. I think it is just a good wine for an appetizer, for dinner with friends or a beautiful woman, with a good fireplace, and just enjoy it.”
95 Rebecca Murphy May 18, 2021

Château La Freynelle, Bordeaux Blanc (France) 2020 ($15, Aquitaine Wine Company): Jeân Bârth planted vines in the Entre du Mer region of Bordeaux in 1789.

For seven generations the property was passed from father to son. In 1992, the tradition changed with the first daughter in the family since the French Revolution. Veronique Bârthe is the owner and winemaker of Château La Freynelle. Made of 60 percent Sauvignon Blanc with equal parts Semillon and Muscadelle, this is a charmingly delicious wine. It is pale yellow in color and blessed with aromas of ripe apples and peaches mingling with wisps of honeysuckle and Kentucky mint. It is crisp and fresh in the mouth with ripe peach, melon and Meyer lemon flavors and rich texture from the Semillon. It offers great quality for a very affordable price. New house wine, anyone?
95 Rebecca Murphy Oct 26, 2021

Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2014 ($35):

The 2014 vintage was the first that came entirely from Lagrange’s new plantings. Compared to the 2013, the 2014 is slightly more intense without losing any elegance or precision. It conveys a marvelous combination of floral notes, grapefruit rind-like punch and even a hint of white pepper. There’s less varietal Sauvignon Blanc character and more minerality speaking. It dances on the palate, combing richness and freshness. It sings!
94 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015

Chateau d'Yquem, Bordeaux Blanc (Sauternes, Bordeaux, France) "Y" 2018 ($215):

Since 1959, world-famous Premier Cru Classe Supérieur Château d'Yquem has produced a dry white wine “Y” (pronounced “Ygrec”) in addition to their ultra-famous sweet wine. The Château only produces this rare wine in certain years when conditions permit. This Bordeaux Blanc is comprised of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon, with lifted aromatics of crisp white pear, lemon, elderflower, orange rind, and hints of sea spray. The palate is expansive, filling the mouth with layers of yellow fruit that complements the ever-present minerality. lt is unquestionably one of the great whites of Bordeaux.
93 Miranda Franco Jul 5, 2022

Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2013 ($34): There’s magic in this wine. Fresh and precise, it conveys citrus notes and engaging bit of spice. It maintains plenty of richness, which is buttressed by freshness and vivacity. The pungency of Sauvignon Blanc is more apparent here since the proportion of that variety has been increased at the expense of Sémillon and Sauvignon Gris. Since only 240 bottles came to the US market, it will be hard to find, but worth the effort.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015

Château Lamothe de Haux, Bordeaux Blanc (France) 2019 ($16, Polaner Selections):

This remarkably pleasant white wine is both inexpensive and very tasty, with bright and lively acid highlighting fruity and floral aromas and flavors. Pleasant to sip on its own the wine also complements a variety of foods: it can be an immensely charming partner for oysters, sushi, and grilled or oven-roasted fish, as well as fare such asparagus risotto or mushroom pilaf. For the past sixty years Chateau Lamothe has been run by the Nèele-Chambart family, who have long championed sustainable farming methods. As a longtime fan of good white Sauvignon Blanc, I applaud Chateau Lamothe’s vin blanc (a blend of 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon and 20% Muscadelle) and I also give it extra kudos for its relatively low alcohol level (12.5%).
92 Marguerite Thomas Mar 1, 2022

Château Ballan-Larquette, Bordeaux Blanc (France) 2011 ($15, Wine Brokers International): A delicious wine that's easy to enjoy with a wide range of foods. Sauvignon Blanc gives it crisp lemon fruit and a note of grassiness, while a bit of Semillon adds roundness to the mouthfeel and a hint, in a young wine, of beeswax. Good value, and I know this is an unusual thing to write, but the classy label makes it a nice bottle to bring to a dinner party. 12.5% alcohol.
91 W. Blake Gray May 7, 2013

Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2005 ($40):

A rich wine, no doubt a result of the vintage and the inclusion of Muscadelle and a healthy amount of Sauvignon Gris in the blend. Creamy and glossy, it has developed nicely after a decade, retaining a surprising vigor.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015

Baron de Rothschild, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Réserve Spéciale” 2011 ($17): Thoroughly pleasing, this wine has good aromatics and is well balanced in every respect. Like all good white Bordeaux, it has both body and a refreshing finish, plus a judicious amount of fruit--all of which makes it a good companion for food.
90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 2, 2012

Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2010 ($35): A lovely firm stony quality offsets the toasty richness. At this stage, the elements are not fully integrated and it lacks the elegance of the 2005.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015

Mouton-Cadet, Bordeaux Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($9, Constellation Imports): White Bordeaux has always taken a back seat to the red wines of that region. But that’s no reason to ignore them because they offer a distinctive and refined style of Sauvignon Blanc. This one, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (65%), Semillon (30%) and Muscadelle, has a pleasing roundness and seductive texture--a creaminess even--from the Semillon and Muscadelle, without losing the invigorating bite of Sauvignon Blanc. You’d be surprised how it enhances a simply roasted chicken. It’s a great buy. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2011

Château Suau, Bordeaux Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($15, Kysela): This very fresh Bordeaux Blanc seemed to me to be based overwhelmingly on Sauvignon Blanc, but in fact (subsequent research showed) it comprises only 55% of the blend with the remainder being 35% Semillon and 10% Muscadelle. It shows very pure, fresh fruit recalling lemons and limes as well as a white melon note, along with aromatic accents of cut grass and dried herbs. Refreshingly acidic but not overly tart, this will work well with shellfish or finfish dishes. 87 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2009

Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2012 ($35): Although this is comprised of a blend similar to that of the 2005 Les Arums, the richness in the 2012 comes across as heavy. While it may be going through an awkward stage now, I doubt it will ever deliver the pleasure the 2005 provides.
86 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015

Château Climens, Bordeaux Blanc Sec (France) "Asphodèle" 2018 ($42, Vineyard Brands):

Château Climens is a highly-regarded estate in Barsac famed for their sumptuous dessert wine. Climens has joined forces with Pascal Jolivet of Sancerre to produce this exquisite dry white from 100% Sémillon grapes that expresses the Climens terroir beautifully. Asphodèle is named for a wild lily and one can certainly fine floral finesse in the wine. The 2018 Asphodèle Blanc Sec is an outstanding example of the richness and complexity that can be found in Sémillon wines from top sites. The nose is full and forward with tantalizing aromas of peaches, pears and rich lemon backed by hints of flowers, cream, honey and herbs. Creamy on the palate, it offers lovely ripe peach, pear and citrus fruits plus hints of herbs and flowers. It’s an exotic treat that is not aged in oak but has a rich texture and layers of flavor. With just a bit of imagination, one can sense the style of the Climens Barsac terroir in a dry wine.
93 Wayne Belding Mar 9, 2021

Château Biac, Cadillac AOC (Bordeaux, France) "Secret de Château Biac" 2010 ($62, MISA Imports):

Youmna and Tony Asseily have a beautiful vineyard in the Cadillac region of Bordeaux. They were encouraged to buy the property from a knowledgeable friend, Patrick Leon, former managing director of Mouton Rothschild. He pointed out the diversity of the soils of gravel, clay-limestone, silt and sand that lay upon a layer of chalk. On this very small estate, they have the soils of both the Right and Left Banks. Secret de Château Biac is a sweet wine made from mostly Semillon with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc grapes that are affected by botrytis cinerea, also called Noble Rot. It is a fungus that affects many plants, but if it happens to the right grapes at the right time, it can result in a magnificent wine, like this one. Its golden color gleams in the glass, helping to announce aromas of dried apricots and candied lemon peel. The concentrated fruit flavors of dried apricots and peaches are generous and rich, buoyed by vibrant acidity. It is delicious and interesting enough to savor and contemplate on its own. Youmna serves it with a savory baked pear-cheese dish.
94 Rebecca Murphy Aug 17, 2021

Château Tertre de Launay, Entre - Deux - Mers (Bordeaux, France) 2019 ($15, Europvin USA):

Entre - Deux- Mers is a large sub-region yielding an enormous amount of everyday white wine. Mainly Sauvignon Blanc with some Semillon and Muscadelle, this 2019 rises above the crowd with its lively, vibrant personality and persistence. The aromas and flavors are predominantly melon with hints of spice and tropical fruit. It finishes with plenty of lip-smacking acidity which makes it an ideal match for shellfish. Fruit forward, crisp, with no oak, It should drink well over the next 2 to 3 years.
90 Norm Roby Oct 19, 2021

Grangeneuve, Entre Deux Mers (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($23, Marquee Selections):

With its citrusy flavors enhanced by delicate floral back-notes this white wine is refreshing indeed. Hints of earthiness and minerality on the palate subtly reflect the vineyard’s clay and limestone soils. It is a lovely wine to pair with seafood, especially delicate items such as oysters. The blend is 65% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon and 5% Muscadelle.
93 Marguerite Thomas Mar 14, 2023

Chateau Landereau, Entre Deux Mers (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($18, Hand Picked Selections):

The wine’s seductive perfume -- a lightly floral fragrance mingling with hints of fruit -- is the first thing that floods your senses. In the mouth it delivers a rich amalgam of flavors including exotic spice and fruit (persimmon, guava). With refreshing and delicate acidity the finish is long and impressive. Made from Sauvignon Blanc (40%), Semillon (30%), Sauvignon Gris (20%) and Muscadelle (10%).
92 Marguerite Thomas Feb 28, 2017

Jacques Lurton, Entre Deux Mers (Bordeaux, France) Sauvignon Blanc “Diane" 2020 ($14):

If there is anyone who can made wine from Sauvignon Blanc, it’s Jacques Lurton, from the family that owns many properties through Bordeaux that produce a consistently stunning array of wines, both red and white. This lean and crisp Sauvignon Blanc conveys an appealing herbaceous aspect. A lanolin-like texture offsets its verve. It’s ideal for summertime fare.
89 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2022

Chateau Plessis, Entre-Deux Mers (Bordeaux, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($20):

Lemon creme and melon aromas lead to a bright tart lemon palate with a creamy entry and a laser focused acidic finish that lasts. Simple in profile, but perfectly delivered.
90 Rich Cook Aug 20, 2019

Château La Grande Métairie, Entre-Deux-Mers (Bordeaux, France) 2021 ($11, Vintage Imports, Inc.):

The Buffeteau family have been making wines in the Entre-Deux-Mers for many generations. Jean-Paul and Huguette Buffeteau created Château La Grande Métairie in 1964. Their 2021 is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. Sauvignon Gris is a color mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, so its skin color is neither red, nor white, but pink. The Sauvignons offer grapefruit and green apple fruit notes, and Muscadelle provides freshness and floral aromas. It is bright and fresh with crisp acidity and priced to be your house wine.
92 Rebecca Murphy Sep 19, 2023

Chateau Bonnet, Entre-Deux-Mers (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($13, WJ Deutsch):

I am admittedly a pushover for well-made dry white Bordeaux, and if it comes in at a mere $13 a bottle that’s certainly all to the good in my opinion. If asked what I like about this Chateau Bonnet I’m tempted to answer: “What’s not to like?” It has a glorious fragrance that hovers somewhere between grapefruity and floral. It’s got refreshing lift, a graceful body, and delicate traces of both honey and minerals on the clean, notably dry finish. At only 12% alcohol, it’s a friendly wine in every sense. 90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 15, 2011

Cheval Quancard, Entre-deux-Mers (Bordeaux, France) “Cuvée Clémence” 2021 ($14, Quancard USA):

Wine lovers seeking full-flavored white wines not made from Chardonnay can find a source among the white wines of Bordeaux. The 2021 Cuvée Clémence Blanc is an outstanding example of the quality and value to be found here. The Entre-deux-Mers is a broad growing area between the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers. Much of the large production from the area is sold as Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur, both red and white. Only white wines can use the Entre-deux-Mers appellation and wines like the Cuvée Clémence will raise the reputation of the denomination. The nose is full and forward with tantalizing aromas of peaches, pears and lemon backed by hints of cream, vanilla and herbs. Subtly textured and creamy on the palate, it offers layers of ripe peach and grapefruit plus lemon curd, herbs, vanilla and spices. Blended from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscdelle, it is a remarkable value for an oak-aged, complex white.
90 Wayne Belding Jan 24, 2023

Château Haut-La Péreyre, Entre-Deux-Mers (Bordeaux, France) Blanc 2008 ($15, Vintage ’59 Imports): This is a very well-made, irresistibly refreshing Bordeaux Blanc for the lingering warm nights of September--or the autumn arrival of oyster season. Blended from 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Muscadelle and 10% Semillon, it is lean and lithe without seeming insubstantial. Notes of citrus fruit and white melon are invigorated by plenty of ripe acidity and accented with pleasant undertones of dried herbs. 88 Michael Franz Sep 15, 2009

Château Haut-La Péreyre, Entre-Deux-Mers Haut-Benauge (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($11, Vintage '59 Imports): This is a very exciting little wine that proves as interesting as it is delicious. Blended from 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Muscadelle and 10% Semillon, it features an extremely expressive bouquet of figs, lime juice, cut grass, candle wax, and straw. No kidding. Very fresh and impeccably dry, with a nice little mineral edge to the finish, this is destined for a bowl of steamed clams. 88 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2006

Château de Chantegrive, Graves (Bordeaux, France) “Cuvée de Caroline” 2020 ($30, Monsièur Touton Selection):

In 1966 Henri and Françoise Leveque sold their stamp collection to buy two hectares, almost five acres of vines in the Graves region of Bordeaux. Today they farm 96 hectars, a bit over 237 acres. In 1988 they used a winemaking technique that was commonly used in the Burgundy region, which resulted in Cuvée de Caroline made of a blend of 50% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris. The technique is called sur lie, in which the wine remains in contact with the expired yeast cells, also known as lees. Cuvée de Caroline is aged on the fine lees in 225-litre barrels, which are regularly stirred. That time on the lees results in a harmonious wine with silky smooth texture supporting flavors of lemon and grapefruit with notes of green apple, and a bit of peach vibrant acidity. It is smooth enough for a sophisticated aperitif and will complement halibut with beurre blanc.
95 Rebecca Murphy Dec 12, 2023

Clos Floridene, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2011 ($33): White wine from Bordeaux is undervalued and overlooked. Don’t make that mistake with this charming example. It has a near magical combination of a pleasantly grassy pungency beautifully balanced by a lanolin-like creaminess. Truly mouth filling, it’s long and graceful as well. An energetic vibrancy keeps you coming back for another sip.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 10, 2013

Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Though I reviewed this wine earlier this year, I just tasted it again and realized I should repeat my earlier recommendation because it’s an especially good choice for the Thanksgiving table. It’s a perfectly harmonized amalgam of lanolin-like texture (from Semillon, which comprises a majority of the blend), with the brightness and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. A weightier wine than many white Bordeaux, it is still an excellent aperitif style wine as well as a fine option for the table.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013

Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Dry white wines from Bordeaux, typically a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, are under appreciated and, as a result, underpriced. In this Graves, a predominance of Semillon lends a creamy texture that is complemented and offset perfectly by the pleasantly pungency of Sauvignon Blanc. Refined enough for an elaborate roast of veal, it’s also sufficiently bright to cut through spicy sushi.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2013

Chateau La Sartre, Pessac-Leognan (Bordeaux) Bordeaux Blanc 2004 ($15, Monsieur Touton Selection): Ironically, Bordeaux is one of the very few major wine regions in the world where you can still find good-quality, well-made white and red wines for $15 and under. The 2004 Château Le Sartre, 70 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 30 percent Sémillon, is dry and crisp, with good acidity and lemony flavors. It is quite full-bodied. Delightful to drink now. Owned by the Perrin Family, also the proprietors of Château Carbonnieux. 89 Ed McCarthy Apr 26, 2006

Chateau Le Sartre, Pessac-Leognan (Bordeaux) Bordeaux Blanc 2004 ($15, Monsieur Touton Selection): Ironically, Bordeaux is one of the very few major wine regions in the world where you can still find good-quality, well-made white and red wines for $15 and under. The 2004 Château Le Sartre -- 70 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 30 percent Sémillon -- is dry and crisp, with good acidity and lemony flavors. It is quite full-bodied. Delightful to drink now. Owned by the Perrin Family, also the proprietors of Château Carbonnieux. 89 Ed McCarthy Apr 4, 2006

Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) Blanc 2020 ($60):

This wine shows the majesty of white wines from Pessac-Léognan. You would never suspect it is made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc because the focus is not on fruitiness, but rather on hard to describe flavors of wet earth and minerals. A subtle, but haunting, bitterness in the finish adds complexity and makes the wine even more appealing. Far tighter and more youthful than their Acte II, this one, their Grand Vin, needs time. I’ve enjoyed many bottles of well-aged Couhins-Lurton. It’s a white wine that develops beautifully with a decade, or more, of bottle age. This and their Acte II, are, as winemaker Jacques Lurton points out, two entirely different wines for two entirely different settings. Drink Acte II now and enjoy — it’s very good — and cellar this one.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2022

Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) “Acte II” Blanc 2020 ($50):

André Lurton, a master of white Bordeaux, saved this legendary estate (it was awarded Grand Cru Classé Graves in 1959) from extinction in the early 1970s when he purchased a portion of it. He subsequently acquired the rest of it, rejuvenated the vines and the cellar, and, as they say, the rest is history. With the 2020 vintage, Château Couhins-Lurton released another wine, called Acte II, from the estate. Winemaker Jacques Lurton insists that Acte II — also made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc — is not a “second” wine in the usual sense, but rather is made from grapes chosen from specific plots within the vineyard and vinified differently to make a wine ready to drink earlier. The focus on whether Acte II is a “second” wine or not may be misplaced, and risks detracting from the wine’s charms. Though the scents and bite of Sauvignon Blanc is apparent, this is far more than a varietal Sauvignon Blanc. It shows the elegance of white Bordeaux, especially those from Pessac-Léognan. There’s a gracefulness here, not the shocking electricity varietal Sauvignon Blanc can convey. Couple that gracefulness with good weight, a fine finish, and balancing acidity, you have a wine that is delicious to drink now.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2022

Château La Louvière, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($40):

The 2020 Château La Louvière Blanc is a lovely example of oak-aged white Bordeaux from Pessac-Léognan. The forward bouquet shows pure scents of grapefruit, apricot and lemon curd followed by waxy, floral, vanilla and baking spice tones. It is beautifully pure and layered on the palate, balancing the exotic fruit and citrus peel intensity with a lusciously creamy texture, spice notes and a crisp minerality at the finish. This is a classic white Bordeaux that can be enjoyed over the next 5 to 8 years.
92 Wayne Belding Feb 13, 2024

Château La Louvière, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2011 ($49):

The 2011 Château La Louvière Blanc is a lovely example of oak-aged white Bordeaux. Rich aromas of grapefruit, apricot and lemon curd are underlain by waxy, floral, vanilla and baking spice tones. Beautifully pure and layered on the palate, it balances the exotic fruit and citrus peel intensity with a lusciously creamy texture and a crisp minerality. This is a characterful white that can be enjoyed over the next 7 to 8 years.
90 Wayne Belding Apr 15, 2014

Château de Rochemorin, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) Blanc 2002 ($22, Classic Wine Imports; WJ Deutsch & Sons): The 2002 Château de Rochemorin, an André Lurton property, delivers broad, rich, smoky flavors from its blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Judicious aging in oak barrels adds complexity without dominating. The bright finish holds it all together. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2006

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($100):

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is a compelling white wine. It is an outstanding example of the purity, richness, and complexity that can be found in white Pessac-Léognan wines. Always among the region’s top estate whites, the 2015 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc continues a string of phenomenal white wine successes. The nose is full and forward with tantalizing aromas of tangerines, peaches, pears, apricots and rich lemon backed by hints of cream, honey and herbs. Richly textured and creamy on the palate, it offers layers of ripe peach, apricot and grapefruit plus lemon peel, herbs, vanilla and spices. This is an impressive wine to drink now, but it can cellar well for another 20 years, growing richer and more honeyed with age.
96 Wayne Belding Jun 19, 2018

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2017 ($100):

The 2017 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is a powerful and complex white wine that is totally enjoyable now and can improve for a decade or more in the cellar. While Pessac-Léognan is most noted for red wines, wine lovers should not overlook its rich and expressive whites. In the 2017 vintage, the Domaine de Chevalier Blanc continues a string of white wine successes. The nose is full and forward with tantalizing scents of peach, pear, grapefruit and lemon backed by hints of cream, honey and herbs. Richly textured and creamy on the palate, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon offers layers of ripe fruit plus a rich and creamy texture and a long finish.
95 Wayne Belding Apr 7, 2020

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($108): The 2018 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is an outstanding example of the

purity, richness, and complexity that can be found in white Pessac-Léognan wines. Always among the region’s top estate whites, the 2018 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc continues a string of phenomenal white wine successes. The nose is full and forward with tantalizing aromas of tangerines, peaches, pears, apricots and rich lemon backed by hints of cream, honey and herbs. Richly textured and creamy on the palate, it offers layers of ripe peach, apricot and grapefruit plus lemon peel, herbs, vanilla and spices. If you want to try an oak-aged white with a different character than Chardonnay, give this compelling wine a try. The Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is an impressive wine to drink now, but it can cellar well for another 20 years, growing richer and more honeyed with age.
95 Wayne Belding Sep 14, 2021

Château Larrivet Haut Brion, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($65):

Those seeking a full-bodied white wine that is not made from Chardonnay should consider the fine white wines of Pessac-Léognan in Bordeaux. The 2018 Larrivet Haut-Brion Blanc is an outstanding example of the richness and complexity that can be found in Pessac-Léognan whites. A consistently superb source of white wines in recent vintages, the 2018 Larrivet Haut-Brion continues a string of successes. The nose is full and forward with tantalizing aromas of peaches, pears, apricots and rich lemon backed by hints of cream, honey and herbs. Richly textured and creamy on the palate, it offers layers of ripe peach, apricot and grapefruit plus lemon curd, herbs, vanilla and spices. It is an exotic treat that is delicious now and will drink well for another 4 to 6 years.
93 Wayne Belding Aug 10, 2021

Château Larrivet Haut Brion, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2015 ($44):

The 2015 Larrivet Haut-Brion Blanc is an outstanding example of the richness and complexity that can be found in white Pessac-Léognan wines. A consistently superb estate in recent vintages, the 2015 Larrivet Haut-Brion continues a string of white wine successes. The nose is full and forward with tantalizing aromas of peaches, pears, apricots and rich lemon backed by hints of cream, honey and herbs. Richly textured and creamy on the palate, it offers layers of ripe peach, apricot and grapefruit plus lemon curd, herbs, vanilla and spices. It’s an exotic treat that is delicious now and will drink well for another 3 to 5 years.
93 Wayne Belding Feb 6, 2018

Château Latour-Martillac, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($47):

The 2018 Latour-Martillac Blanc is emblematic of the richness and complexity that can be found in 2018 Pessac-Léognan whites. Latour-Martillac whites benefit from some of the oldest vines in Bordeaux, with some plots planted in 1884. The nose reflects the fine 2018 harvest and is full and forward with tantalizing aromas of grapefruit, peaches, pineapple and rich lemon backed by hints of cream and herbs. Richly textured but still lively on the palate, it offers layers of ripe peach, pineapple and grapefruit plus lemon, herbs, vanilla and spices. Blended from Sauvignon Blanc (54%) and Sémillon (46%), it is a fine white Bordeaux that will last well for another five years.
93 Wayne Belding Nov 30, 2021

Château Latour-Martillac, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2021 ($40):

The 2021 vintage, while somewhat challenging for Bordeaux red wines, was an excellent crop for whites. Latour-Martillac Blanc is emblematic of the vivacity and complexity that can be found in 2021 Pessac-Léognan whites. Latour-Martillac whites benefit from some of the oldest vines in Bordeaux, with some plots planted in 1884. The nose is fresh and forward with tantalizing aromas of grapefruit, peaches, pineapple and lemon zest backed by hints of cream and herbs. Richly textured but still lively on the palate, it offers layers of ripe peach, pineapple and grapefruit plus lemon, herbs, vanilla and spices. It will provide delicious drinking for another 5 years and beyond.
93 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

Château Larrivet Haut Brion, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2012 ($55):

The 2012 Larrivet Haut-Brion Blanc is a star among white Pessac-Léognan wines. Always a reliable producer, the Larrivet white reaches star status in the 2012 harvest. The nose is rich with fruit scents -- peaches, pears, apricots and rich lemon are backed by hints of cream, honey, herbs and a touch of juniper. Richly textured and creamy on the palate, it offers layers of ripe peach, apricot and grapefruit plus lemon curd, herbs, vanilla and spices. It’s an exotic treat that is delicious now and will drink well for another 3 to 5 years.
92 Wayne Belding Mar 3, 2015

L’Espirit de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($49):

The 2018 L’Espirit de Chevalier Blanc is a product of the famous Domaine de Chevalier in Pessac-Léognan. While the grand vin is always among the top white wines of the appellation, this "second label" is an outstanding wine in its own right. It is a beautiful example of the purity, richness, and complexity that can be found in white Pessac-Léognan wines. The nose is full and forward with aromas of peaches, pears, tangerine and Meyer lemon backed by hints of herbs, vanilla and a delicate smoky nuance. On the palate, it has a creamy texture and offers layers of grapefruit, peach and apple plus lemon peel, herbs, vanilla and baking spice. This is a delicious oak-aged white that offers an intriguing alternative to Chardonnay. The L’Espirit de Chevalier Blanc is an impressive wine to drink now, but it can cellar well for another 5 to 10 years.
92 Wayne Belding May 17, 2022

L’Esprit de Chevalierq, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($33):

The 2020 L’Esprit de Chevalier Blanc is a product of the famous Domaine de Chevalier in Pessac-Léognan. While not as exalted as the Domaine’s Grand Vin, this "second label" is an outstanding wine in its own right. It is a beautiful example of the purity, richness, and complexity that can be found in white Bordeaux wines. The nose is enchanting and forward with aromas of peach, pear, apricot and Meyer lemon backed by hints of sage, vanilla and creamy oak. On the palate, it has a rich texture and offers layers of citrus, apricot, peach and apple plus lemon peel, herbs, vanilla and baking spice. This is a delicious oak-aged white that offers an intriguing alternative to Chardonnay. The L’Esprit de Chevalier Blanc drinks beautifully now and will keep well for another 5 years.
91 Wayne Belding Apr 2, 2024

Château Guiraud, Sauternes (Bordeaux, France) 2011 ($64):

Keep your eyes out for this one if you are a Sauternes fan. It is a marvelously opulent and intriguing dessert wine. Golden in color, the aroma is astonishingly complex and attractive. Baked apple and pear tones are infused with elements of apricot, honey, ginger, mango, golden raisin, vanilla and exotic spices. Unctuous but still refreshing on the palate, it is a decadent treat with the apricot, apple and tropical fruit notes underscored by a rich texture of spiced ginger cream. This is a compelling Sauternes with layers of flavor, a fine balance and a long finish. Lovely now, it will grow in complexity for another 10+ years.
96 Wayne Belding Apr 22, 2014

Château Doisy-Daëne, Sauternes (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($70):

Fine Sauternes is one of the wine world’s great taste treats. It is a marvelously opulent, sweet and intriguing category of dessert wines. The Doisy-Daëne estate is managed by famed wine consultant Denis Dubourdieu and the 2020 bottling is superb. Golden in color, the aroma is complex and attractive. Baked apple and pear tones are infused with elements of pineapple, apricot, honey, ginger, golden raisin, vanilla and exotic spices. Unctuous but still refreshing on the palate, it is a decadent treat with the apricot, almond, apple and tropical fruit notes underscored by a rich texture and a lifted, lively finish. Lovely now, it will grow in complexity for another 10 to 20 years.
94 Wayne Belding Dec 5, 2023

Chateau Coutet, Sauternes-Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2001 ($75, Wine House): Barsac had very good weather in October developing even botrytis, resulting in a blend of 90% Semillon, 9% Sauvignon Blanc and just 1% Muscadelle. The color is a lovely burnished gold and the fully developed aromatics include apricots, honeyed notes with citrus and floral accents. The flavors are unctuous and silky, with 14% alcohol and great length through the complex finish. Barsac is always a splurge, but this 2001 Coutet is worth it. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 19, 2011

Chateau Coutet, Sauternes-Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($67, Wine House): This aromatic blend of 75% Semillon, 23% Sauvignon Blanc and a 2% grace note of Muscadelle shows a brilliant pale gold color, delicate stone fruit aroma with citrus and floral notes, nicely integrated fruit and botrytis, vanilla and grapefruit rind, 14% alcohol and balanced sweetness and acidity through the finish. Release date for this Coutet is the latter part of 2011. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 19, 2011

Chateau Coutet, Sauternes-Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2007 ($70, Wine House): Vintage conditions in 2007 allowed for the same basic blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and a little bit of Muscadelle. The color is a shade deeper, more light-medium, gold and the aromatics show a touch of caramel with forward grapefruit and floral notes. This is a nicely structured sweet wine with ample fruit, hints of apricot and grapefruit rind, rich texture, 14% alcohol and good length through the finish.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 19, 2011

Chateau Coutet, Sauternes-Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2006 ($59, Wine House): This blend of mostly Semillon with small amounts of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle was bottled in 2008. The color has darkened a little but is still a brilliant medium gold. The aromatics are muted, with honeyed fruit and low intensity hints of “waxy” botrytis. There is a nice balance of sweetness and acidity, 14% alcohol, but the finish is showing some bitterness. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Apr 19, 2011

Domaine Rapet, Aloxe Corton (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($60): A marvelously expressive wine with a remarkable scent of fresh red raspberries, this is perhaps the most vivid Aloxe Corton I've ever tasted. It will need time to pick up aromatic complexities, but the fruit component is so pure and sweet and intense that it is already delicious. 89 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Aloxe-Corton (Cote de Beaune, Burgundy) 2003 ($43, Dreyfus Ashby): Aloxe-Corton is always the firmest and most tannic of the Côte de Beaune village wines. The 2004 Drouhin Aloxe-Corton is rich and explosive on the palate. It begs for a few more years of aging. It's a wine that will stand up to hearty stews. 90 Ed McCarthy Jan 24, 2006

Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2016 ($75, Louis Latour USA):

Les Chaillots is one of the many vineyards where Louis Latour owns vines. Hence the labeling, Domaine Louis Latour. The 2016 vintage received a bad rap because of the horrible weather that reduced yields dramatically. The weather may have been bad, but many of the 2016s, such as this one, are excellent. This Chaillots is classic Aloxe-Corton, with a core of firm, ripe fruit surrounded by suave tannins. Filled with paradox, it conveys austerity, but it’s not an austere wine. It’s both delicate and forceful. It is the epitome of finesse and power. Engaging now, it will reward a decade of cellaring as more complexity emerges from this balanced beauty.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018

Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2020 ($117, Louis Latour, USA):

Wines from Aloxe-Corton, even its premier crus, are overshadowed by grand cru Corton and overlooked by consumers. Do. Not. Overlook. This. Wine. Its fleshy body atop a firm frame of iron-tinged flavors identify it clearly as Aloxe-Corton. Impeccably balanced and fresh, it is well-proportioned, not over extracted or overdone. It’s a mini-Corton that has the advantage that it will be approachable far sooner than its grand cru big brother. It’s charming now, so drink it in the next year or so, after which I suspect it will close down, to re-emerge in a decade as a grand wine.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2022

Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2012 ($80, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, top-notch négociant established in 1797, is based in the Aloxe-Corton. Since their founding, have been able to purchase prime plots there, so it’s not surprising that they make excellent wines from vineyards in that village. Les Chaillots, just down from hill from the Grand Cru, Corton-Grèves, is one of the village’s best Premier Cru sites. Latour’s 2012, very perfumed and elegant, delivers the density of flavor expect from this concentrated vintage without losing the delicate, almost lacey, texture emblematic of this vineyard. This is a classy Premier Cru, deserving of its stature.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2014

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2005 ($30): Given the high prices commanded by 2005 vintage Burgundies, it is a pleasure to be able to recommend a reasonably-priced wine that offers strong quality. Pure and admirably deep in flavor, this shows a lot of breeding for the money. 87 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Domaine Jean et Giles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2017 ($37):

One formula for Burgundy bargains is to find a top producer who lives and has vineyards in an out-of-the-way place. Domaine Lafouge’s Auxey-Duresses (“oh say doo ress”) fits that formula. Auxey-Duresses, like Monthélie, which it abuts, is situated in the prestigious Côte d’Or, but most of its vineyards lie even further west. Lafouge is a compulsive grower who makes at least four Premier Cru Auxey-Duresses in addition to this village wine. Their focus is on elegance. They do not over manipulate the wines to make them “bigger.” This mid-weight red wine conveys the charm of Burgundy, combining red fruit notes with savory ones. It would fit nicely on the Thanksgiving table.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2020

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses (Burgundy, France) Les Boutonnières 2005 ($27, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): A potential drawback to some white Burgundies from 2005 is a lack

of uplifting acidity. That's not a problem with this wine because the village of Auxey-Duresses lies in a cool microclimate that prevented the warmth of 2005, responsible for the great concentration and intensity, from sapping this wine's acidity. Steely, lively and nicely balanced, there is intriguing earthiness in the finish, putting this village--Les Boutonnières is not a premier cru--wine on a par with many producers' premier crus. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Gilles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Duresses Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection 2018 ($43):

With prices of Burgundy having gone through the roof, it’s a delight to find one that’s affordable, at least by Burgundy standards. As I’ve long maintained, villages off the beaten path, such as Auxey-Duresses which sits behind Meursault, and talented producers who, for whatever reason, have never gotten the praise they deserve, like Gilles Lafouge, is the combination consumers should seek out. Les Duresses is the village’s best vineyard, which is why its name has been appended to the village’s original name. I tasted a barrel sample about 15 months ago in their cellars and loved it. Now that it’s been bottled, it’s even better. Its lovely firmness and bright cherry-like fruitiness show that Lafouge avoided the potential for over ripeness in 2018. It’s glossy and long with minerals complementing its fruitiness. Quintessential Burgundy, it’s filled with charm, is light as a feather, yet full of flavor. Though you can safely buy any of Lafouge’s wines, this 1er cru from Auxey-Duresses is a star.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011 ($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy. Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2013

Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012 ($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation. The vast majority of Beaujolais -- I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru -- are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice. But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. Good concentration and weight allows it to hold up to a grilled hanger steak while barely perceptible tannins mean it’s a delight to drink now.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2014

Terres Dorées, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($15, Louis Dressner Selections): Jean-Paul Brun's Terres Dorées label is a reliable sign of quality in Beaujolais. Too many Beaujolais are just grapey and simple. Not Terres Dorées. The 2005 l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes has an attractive layer of earthiness, even minerality, that I assume is the result of vieilles vignes (old vines)-to complement its inherent fruitiness. Whatever the explanation, it's the most complex and exciting straight Beaujolais I've had. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Nouveau 2011 ($10, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): It’s Nouveau time again and the “King of Beaujolais,” Georges Duboeuf has come through with another in a series of grapy juicy, new Beaujolais. This is all Gamay all the way sporting a deep purple-ruby color, ripe strawberry aromas and flavors, full tannins, crisp acidity, 12.5% alcohol. If you’re looking for a quaffing red at a good price, Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau fills the bill.
89 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 6, 2011

Terres Dorees, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) "l’Ancien de Jean-Paul Brun" 2007 ($19): Jean-Paul Brun is one of Beaujolais' treasures because of the consistent quality of the wines he makes. His crus of Beaujolais (some of them reviewed this week) are stunning, but his 'simple' Beaujolais is equally illuminating because it is so different from the all too often sweet and grapey industrial Beaujolais on the market. This one has plenty of red and black fruit flavors, but depth and nuances rarely found in Beaujolais. Try it with a take-out rotisseries chicken. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2008

Mommesin , Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($15, Boisset Family Estates): Beaujolais wines are typically meant to be fresh, fruity and fun; this one takes the concept a step further with an aluminum bottle. The playful bottle graphics (there is no label) include a 'cooldot' symbol that turns blue when the wine is chilled to the right temperature for drinking. The wine inside the eye-catching package has a fresh and fruity aroma of red cherries and berries. Though it's quite fruity, with notes of strawberry jam, the wine retains a fair bit of tannin at the finish. 85 Tina Caputo Nov 25, 2008

Chateau du Chatelard, Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($15, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): Georges DuBoeuf recently acquired this chateau, and though it makes a

Morgon, a Moulin-à-Vent and a very good Fleurie, the white wine is the star of the portfolio, which is very unusual in Beaujolais. But a visit to the vineyard immediately shows why: The ground appears to be nothing but rocks. The nose is both floral and leesy. On the palate, it's moderately rich (13% alcohol), with golden apple fruit and very well integrated minerality. It's voluptuous without being heavy, and would be something Chatelard's neighbors to the north in Bourgogne proper would be proud to make. 92 W. Blake Gray Jan 10, 2012

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($11, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): “Less is more” is a catchphrase that might be applied to Beaujolais Nouveau as well as to modernist architecture. Characteristically, the wines have less pigmentation than typical red wine--this one from Duboeuf, for example, is appealingly pale purplish in hue. It does have enormous and inviting fragrance, which contrasts with its rather quiet and brief fruity presence on the palate. Another characteristic of Beaujolais Nouveau that appeals to its admirers is that it has less alcohol than most red wines (12%), and it is also less costly than the average red. The secret to enjoying is Beaujolais Nouveau is to chill it slightly before pouring.
88 Marguerite Thomas Dec 3, 2013

Georges DuBoeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($11, WJ Deutsch): Full, fresh and fruity, just as Beaujolais Nouveau should be. The concentration and extract make this year's version very appealing and, hopefully, bodes well for 2005 Burgundy in general. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006

Jean-Marc Burgaud, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) Beaujolais Lantignié 2021 ($19, Thomas Calder Selection):

Normally, wines from the Beaujolais-Villages appellation are a blend of wine from several different villages and do not carry the name of an individual village on the label. However, French regulations allow producers to indicate the village, Lantignié in this case, on the label if all the grapes came from it. Judging from this wine and several others I have had from Lantignié, that village deserves to be promoted to cru status and stand beside Juliénas or Brouilly. Add the origin of the grapes to the talent of Jean-Marc Burgaud and it’s no surprise that this wine punches far above its weight class. This zesty red balances juicy red fruit flavors with plenty of herbal and spicy ones, so it doesn’t come across as sweet or sappy. This uplifting wine has amazing complexity. Mild tannins allow it to take a chill nicely without becoming astringent, making it a delightful substitute for rosé this summer. Buy it by the case for summertime drinking. I am.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 18, 2023

Potel-Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($16, Frederick Wildman): Stéphane Aviron describes his 2009 Beaujolais as “sunny wines” because of the warmth of the vintage. Anyone who thinks that all Beaujolais is just tutti-fruity and jammy should try his wines. Spiced with a touch of minerality, this 2009 Beaujolais Villages harbors not a hint of overt grapey flavors. It’s the reason Beaujolais remains such a popular wine. Try this easy to recommend wine with roast chicken, pizza or burgers. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 3, 2012

Louis Jadot, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2006 ($12, Kobrand): Jadot has made a substantial investment in Beaujolais with their single vineyard wines from their estates in Moulin-a-Vent, Brouilly, Fleurie and Morgon. Their commitment shows even in this wine, their lowest level Beaujolais. Sure, it delivers plenty of the berry-like fruitiness, characteristic of wines from the region. But another layer of subtle, 'not-just-fruit' flavor gives it more intrigue than the standard Beaujolais Village. Buy it by the case so you'll always have it on hand for take-out rotisserie chicken. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007

Maison J. J. Vincent, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($12, Frederick Wildman & Sons): J. J. Vincent is best known for their consistently excellent Pouilly Fuissé from their domaine, the Chateau de Fuissé. This Beaujolais-Villages, however, comes from the négociant side of their company, from vines located within the village of Juliénas, but not within that cru’s appellation. Nonetheless, this, their first vintage, is a serious Beaujolais Villages, reflective of both the vintage and Vincent’s ability. It has attractive rusticity and none of the sweet grapey flavors frequently associated with Beaujolais-Villages. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Stéphane Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($15, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The yields in Beaujolais in 2012, were, like everywhere else in Burgundy, down dramatically. Stéphane estimates that the average yield in 2012 for Beaujolais in general was about 27 hl/ha, or half normal, which is both good and bad. Good, because the wines are wonderfully concentrated. Bad, because there’s less of them and they are more difficult to find. His Beaujolais-Villages is lively with good concentration and fruitiness, without being candied or sweet. In contrast to much of the Beaujolais on today’s market, Aviron’s is real wine. This easy to drink mid-weight red is perfect for roast chicken tonight.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 18, 2014

Stéphane Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($14, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Stéphane Aviron makes exceptional Beaujolais ranging from this Villages bottling to a selection of village cru wines made from old vines. This entry-level offering is the least expensive, and for $14 it offers very nice fruit recalling cherries and plums. Fresh, but with a suggestion of subtle sweetness from ripe fruit.
87 Michael Franz Jun 11, 2013

Chateau de Lavernette, Beaujolais-Leynes (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Le Clos” 2009 ($24, Vintage ’59 Imports):

This is one of the most serious and convincing bottles of Beaujolais that I’ve tasted during the past five years. It shows delicious fruit recalling dark and red cherries along with some very appealing spice notes that seem derived from use of some new or newer barrels in the vinification process. Straddling the line between light- and medium-bodied, it is fresh but firm and substantial, and could work well with anything from lighter preparations of red meat dishes to duck, veal, or grilled fish steaks. Impressive stuff. 91 Michael Franz Nov 23, 2010

Chateau de Lavernette, Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($16, Vintage ’59 Imports): The commercial success of large-production Beaujolais has always left me rather mystified, as I can always point to lots of other wines that offer more pleasure and interest for the same price. However, this criticism does not apply to small-production wines like this, which show that conscientious vintners can produce wines of indisputable excellence from the Gamay grape in Beaujolais. This bottling is not quite as complex as its 2009 stablemate Beaujolais-Leynes “Le Clos,” but it shows a winning softness and textural breadth that is nearly irresistible. Although it is soft, it is nevertheless nicely structured with fresh acidity and a little fine-grained tannin, and consequently can perform well either on its own or with a wide range of foods like poultry, pork or veal. 90 Michael Franz Nov 23, 2010

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($16, WJ Deutsch): It has been said that Beaujolais-Villages is the purest essence of Gamay and the truest Beaujolais. This 2010 does nothing to alter that claim. The color is a medium-deep ruby, while the aromas show clearly defined dark cherry and raspberry that follow through to the flavor. Textured with good fruit, firm tannins, 13% alcohol and good balance through the finish, this Beaujolais-Villages represents good quality and value.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 25, 2011

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 'Flower Label' 2009 ($11, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.): This delightful wine offers loads of forward ripe berry aromatics and flavors, supported by soft but firm tannins and good acidity. Beaujolais-Villages can be a little thin and vapid sometimes, but not this one. It’s juicy and grapey and the price is right. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($12, Kobrand): Beaujolais is most people's epiphany wine, the red nectar that made them lose their grip on the beer can. Jadot's Beaujolais-Villages, from 100 percent Gamay, is as good as you remember Beaujolais can be; brilliant purple-garnet color, lovely grapey aroma with a spicy note, medium-bodied juicy flavors, bracing acidity and good length. Stock up now for Thanksgiving with this delicious value-wine. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 19, 2006

Christophe Pacalet, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($12, Winebow):

Christophe Pacalet is a noted producer of Côte de Brouilly and other Beaujolais wines. His Beaujolais-Villages vineyards rest on granitic soils and are drawn from sites with some100+ year old vines. Pacalet’s 2014 Beaujolais shows the classic Beaujolais style. It has aromas of red cherry, raspberry, strawberry, lilacs, smoke and nutmeg spice. The flavors are pure, bright and lively, with layers of raspberry and cherry fruits underscored by elements of earth, smoke and spice. Perfect for enjoying on its own, it can pair well with simply grilled sausages, roast chicken or game birds.
89 Wayne Belding Feb 9, 2016

Henry Fessey, Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($12, Louis Latour, USA): The 2009 vintage produced wines in Beaujolais marked by deeper than usual flavors, with none of the irritating tropical or banana-like notes that sometimes mar the wines in weaker years. The crus produced the best wines, but the Villages appellation also did very well. Here’s a fine example. Like all good Beaujolais reds, it’s light and graceful, but like the best 2009s, it’s also deeply-flavored, with surprising depth and length. Wines from 2010 will be here soon, so buy this one while you still can find it. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 7, 2012

Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($10): I usually steer friends to cru Beaujolais because the difference in price between a cru and a village wine generally isn’t that great. But if you’re ever going to cheap out and try to save a few bucks by going for the village Beaujolais, the time to do it is in a great vintage like 2010. This wine is mighty fine for under ten bucks. 89 Robert Whitley May 29, 2012

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($12, Kobrand): Let me get straight to the point. Jadot's 2005 Beaujolais-Villages is delicious and a great value. Buy it by the case. Forget what you've heard about Beaujolais being thin, watery stuff. This is the kind of Beaujolais that brought the world's attention to that region. Not just grapey, it has charm, character, class and-dare I say-some complexity. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($12, Kobrand):

The 2009 vintage is likely the best the Beaujolais region has seen in decades, according to veteran producers there. It’s no surprise then, that Jadot, a top-notch Beaune-based Burgundy producer who has been investing heavily there since their purchase of Château des Jacques in 1996, made stunning Beaujolais in 2009. Jadot’s 2009 Beaujolais-Villages is a delight. It delivers plenty of ripe bright black cherry-like flavors and enlivening acidity. Not candied or sweet, characteristics that give Beaujolais a bad name, it’s real wine. Stock up for Thanksgiving and beyond. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 19, 2010

Joseph Drouhin, Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2007 ($13, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Who doesn't like Beaujolais with its bright, grapy flavors, soft tannins and long fruity finish? Beaujolais-Villages, made from grapes grown around 40-plus named-villages, is a step up in quality and enjoyment over Beaujolais. This village wine, with it bright medium-deep ruby color, has a lovely violet and ripe berry nose, bright fruity flavors, smooth tannins and good balancing acidity. Finished at a respectable 13% alcohol, it is a little short and quick on the palate. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 2, 2009

Joseph Drouhin, Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2007 ($12, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This value-priced Beaujolais-Villages tastes of strawberries and spice, without any of the cloying banana-like flavors that can mar other Beaujolais wines. It's not especially nuanced or complex, but it is very enjoyable, and would be an ideal choice to take on a spring picnic. 88 Paul Lukacs Apr 7, 2009

Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($12, Kobrand):

While it would be easy to pigeon-hole Beaujolais-Villages as merely a summer quaffer to be served slightly chilled on those warm summer nights when the dominant aroma in the air is chicken grilling on the barbecue, that would do a disservice to those rare Beaujolais producers who go to great lengths to beef up their Beaujolais-Villages. Jadot is one of those, back-blending a significant portion of cru Beaujolais from such districts as Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon and Fleurie to craft a Beaujolais-Villages with more structure and complexity. It's still a great quaffing wine, but I wouldn't hesitate to serve the '06 Jadot with a savory fall stew, or roasted fowl with chanterelles. It's just a thought, but a delicious thought! 87 Robert Whitley Aug 21, 2007

Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2008 ($11, Kobrand): For years I’ve been openly dismissive not only of Beaujolais Nouveau, but also of most other bottlings from Beaujolais, which are frequently grapey and sugary in an overt way. However, fairness requires recognition of exceptions to the rule, and this bottling is one of them. It shows red cherry and berry fruit with a bit of brightness and a sweetness that seems natural and fruity rather than confected. Light but flavorful, it is very pleasant and very useful with light meats or poultry. 87 Michael Franz Jan 12, 2010

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais-Villages (France) 'Nouveau' 2009 ($11, W.J. Deutsch & Sons):

I have colleagues who consider Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau wine with training wheels, and doubtless there is an element of truth in that description. But the lower alcohol (12.5 percent) holds a certain appeal, and there's no way you wouldn't enjoy quaffing this fresh, fruity, guileless wine by the gallon over a plate of salty pommes frites or other bistro fare.

Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($11, W. J. Deutsch and Sons):

A Joan Jett song sums up my feelings about this wine: "I Hate Myself For Loving You." Like the rest of the Wine Review Online team, I can't

stand the marketing hype for Beaujolais Nouveau, which is basically a barrel sample. When I lived in Japan people would pay more than $30 a bottle for it -- it's even on allocation. There are huge parties all over the world for it, and they're the biggest wine parties some people ever attend. And it's a barrel sample! To be fair, though, this is the best Beaujolais Nouveau I've ever had, the product of a long, warm, dry summer that got the grapes more ripe than usual. It's surprisingly sophisticated for a nouveau, with crushed red plum flavor, notes of licorice and violet, and very mild tannins. It would be good with Thanksgiving dinner, and appropriate as a product of this year's harvest. I wrung my hands before scoring it; philosophically, I'd rather drink a finished wine, but I did really like this, and it is the best of its type I've ever had.

Joseph Drouhin, Beaune (Burgundy, France) Premier Cru Clos des Mouches 2003 ($76, Dreyfus, Ashby): Yes! Here we have one of the true stars, not only of the Drouhin portfolio, but in all of Burgundy as well. Clos des Mouches (average age of its vines, 38 years) has long been considered one of the great Premier Cru vineyards on the Côte d'Or, and the Joseph Drouhin house is majority owner, with 32 acres, equally planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (Drouhin's Clos des Mouches Blanc is every bit as good as the Rouge). The surprising thing is that Drouhin was able to make such an elegant, velvety, balanced Clos des Mouches in such a hot vintage. Complex and deep, with black fruit aromas and flavors, it should even be better in five years. 94 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Château de la Charrière, Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Les Epenotes” 2020 ($25, K&L Wine Merchants):

This Burgundy is a direct import by K&L Wine Merchants based in San Francisco and is produced by Domaine Yves Girarday. It is a bit of a throwback to old style Burgundy in the good sense in the way it captures the elegance, subtlety and harmony of classic Beaune. Medium garnet in color, it offers a pretty aroma of cherry, earthiness, and dried herbs. In the mouth, it is vibrant with a fleshy, silky feel and flavors of red fruits along with nicely woven hints of truffles and forest floor. It is all framed by good acidity and finishes long with smooth tannins.
92 Norm Roby Jan 9, 2024

Chanson Père et Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Fèves 2002 ($75, Paterno Wines International): Over the last decade, Chanson, one of the great names in Burgundy, has failed to deliver wines commensurate with the stature of its vineyards, especially since it owns tremendous sites-parts of ten 1er cru vineyards-in Beaune. That situation appears to be changing. Bollinger, who recently purchased Chanson, installed Gilles de Courcel, head of the respected Domaine Courcel in Pommard, to run the house. Already, Chanson is again turning out some impressive wines. Clos des Fèves, a 9.5-acre vineyard owned exclusively by Chanson, is their flagship red wine. The 2002 Clos des Fèves is stunning. A captivating nose followed by pure sweet fruit intermingled with just a touch of earthiness and incredible length makes this an exquisite example of Burgundy. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006

Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ursules 2002 ($48, Kobrand): Jadot's flagship Beaune from a portion of the Vignes Franches vineyard, the Clos des Ursules is always a winner. The 2002 is no exception. With more structure than their other Beaune 1er Cru, it should turn out very well. A wonderfully balanced wine. 94 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Maison Faiveley, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de l’Ecu 2005 ($85, Wilson Daniels): This outstanding wine from Beaune has exceptional length and finesse. Fine tannins harmonize with bright, ripe, penetrating fruit and earth flavors. The layers of flavor convey depth, but there's no heaviness here. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2007

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) “Celebration” 2020 ($63, Kobrand):

Jadot started this unconventional, by Burgundy standards, bottling with the 2009 vintage to celebrate its 150th anniversary. Contrary to the Burgundy mantra of terroir — a specific delineated location is paramount — Jadot blends wine from upwards of 15 individual premier cru vineyards within Beaune, to produce a wine representative of the best Beaune has to offer (there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune.) They produce it only in the best years, like 2020. Explosive on the palate, this is real 1er cru. Suave tannins support a glorious mixture of red fruit, spice, and complementary savory herbal notes. Refreshing acidity adds life to this racy wine. Though a joy to drink now, I suspect it will close down in a year or so to reawaken in a few years. So, dive in now to get a sense of what top-notch Beaune has to offer.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 22, 2023

Albert Morot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Bressandes 2007 ($63, Robert Kacher Selections): Morot, who owns about 3.25 acres of the large--by Burgundy standards--(43-acre) 1er Cru Bressandes vineyard, made a classic red Burgundy from those grapes in 2007, a vintage that produced many charming forward red Burgundies. One whiff of the gloriously perfumed nose predicts good things will follow. And you are not disappointed. Lush, with ripe sweet fruit flavor and earthy nuances, this is what red Burgundy is all about. It’s filled with charm that makes it hard to resist now, although the fine tannins and balance suggest a graceful evolution in its future. It’s quintessential Burgundy; flavor without weight. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 22, 2009

Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2009 ($63): This Premier Cru is always one of Latour’s best reds from the Côte de Beaune. The house has substantial holdings in this some of the best parts of this vineyard that they purchased over 100 years ago. Those who complain Latour’s reds are diluted and not up to the quality of their white wines need to take another look. Since 1999, Latour’s reds have been more extracted and concentrated without sacrificing any of the elegance for which they are known. This one is another great example of the beauty of the 2009 vintage for reds. It has unexpected power for Beaune coupled with great length and finesse. A wonderfully charming wine. At the risk of repeating myself: you can’t have too many 2009 red Burgundies in your cellar. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Boucherottes 2009 ($45, Kobrand):

Jadot owns almost a third of this premier cru vineyard that lies in the southern part of Beaune, bordering Pommard. Though the 2009 red Burgundies are sensational across appellations, the wines from Beaune are especially engaging. It’s very floral and mineraly with sweet ripe dark fruit, plush tannins and great length. Rather big for a Beaune, it likely reflects more clay in the soil of the Boucherottes vineyard and the added ripeness from the vintage. Despite its concentration, it’s still balanced and shows the elegance of Burgundy. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011

Maison Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2002 ($46, Louis Latour, Inc.): Latour owns about a third--over 7 acres--in this prized vineyard from which he makes consistently excellent wine. The 2002 is glorious, concentrated and well structured. I would drink his Volnay En Chevrets while waiting for this one to evolve. This is another one that went into my cellar. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Domaine Jacques Prieur, Beaune 1er Cru (Champs-Pimont, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($85, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd):

Reds from Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune were terrific on average in 2010, and though this was also true in 2009 and 2011, my favorites are the 2010s. This domaine was particularly successful, and this wine shows excellent depth and persistence of flavor without the barest hint of over-ripeness, thanks in large part to a bright beam of acidity that lifts and freshens the finish. Oak is notable but still restrained, and the overall balance of fruit, acidity, tannin and wood is exemplary.
92 Michael Franz May 14, 2013

Joseph Faiveley, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de l’Écu 2010 ($65, Frederick Wildman & Sons):

Very serious for a wine from Beaune, this is sourced from a monopole site owned by Faiveley. It shows as much black cherry as red cherry profile to the fruit, with very nice backnotes of fresh meat, wild mushrooms and woodsmoke. Still rather taut with acidity but already quite expressive in aroma and flavor, this is delicious now but sure to improve for a minimum of 5 years. 92 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Theurons 2002 ($36, Kobrand): A bottling from a vineyard owned by the heirs of the Jadot family--Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot--this is a concentrated wine, rather big for a Beaune, with great texture and length. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Boucherottes 2002 ($36, Kobrand): This more muscular wine, also from a family owned vineyard on the border with Pommard, has great color and concentration without being overdone. Exceptionally long, it's even bigger, but not necessarily better, than the Theurons. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Chouacheux Domaine Gagey 2013 ($57, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): The 2013 vintage in Burgundy was difficult because rain during the harvest had the potential to swell the grapes, diluting them and the wine. Plus, dampness during harvest is a set up for rot. But talented producer, such as Louis Jadot, makes excellent wines even in “difficult” years. They just make less of them because they discard unsuitable grapes. Though Jadot is one of Burgundy’s most iconic négociants -- that is, they buy grapes from growers, make the wine and bottle under their name -- this particularly attractive one comes from what are essentially their own vineyards. The indication, Domaine Gagey, on the label indicates that the Gagey family -- Pierre Henry Gagey is the President of Maison Louis Jadot -- owns the vineyard. The wine has a lovely delicacy that belies its persistence. It delivers flavor without weight. The balanced combination of red fruit-like flavors and savory notes makes it a quintessential Burgundy. I would prefer to cellar it for a few years, though if you twisted my arm, I’d happily drink it tonight with a grilled veal chop.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2016

Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Beaune du Châteaux 2002 ($40, Clicquot, Inc.): This wine, which has been sold widely in France, made its first US appearance in 2002. A blend made exclusively from up to 16 of Bouchard's 1er Cru vineyards in Beaune which are not bottled separately, such as Beaune Marconnets or Beaune Grèves, it's a great buy. The grapes from the small plots Bouchard owns are harvested and vinified separately and then blended to create Beaune du Châteaux. A pure fruit nose, gives way to up front fresh red fruit flavors, great delicacy and length. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Maison Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 'Vignes Franches' 2006 ($63, Louis Latour Inc.): Always one of Latour's best premier cru wines, the 2006 Beaune Vignes Franches is no exception. It's classic red Burgundy from one of Beaune's great vineyards: mid-weight, bright red fruit intertwined with a delicate leafy -- almost mushroom-like -- character. It's hard to resist now, but firm tannins suggest it will be at its best in another five years. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009

Michael Gay et Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Greves 2006 ($53, Martine’s Wines): Although the 2006 red Burgundies were far less consistent than the more acclaimed 2005s, many producers delivered excellent wines. Michel Gay’s Beaune Grèves is one of them. Grèves is on most producers’ short list of the best vineyard sites in Beaune. Gay’s 2006 has a lovely perfume that leads into a firm and succulent minerality. The tannins are fine without a hint of the hardness found in many 2006 reds. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 13, 2010

Alex Gambal, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011 ($45):

The Gambal team, led by winemaker Geraldine Godot who joined Gambal in 2009, has captured the “flavor without weight” character of red Burgundy with this elegant Beaune Grèves. Its lacey delicacy belies its impact and persistence. A firm underpinning gives it support and structure. Lovely now, it would be a fine choice with a roast chicken and sautéed mushrooms.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 15, 2013

Nicolas Potel, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Vignes Franches 2002 ($36, Frederick Wildman): The pure cherry-like fruit is packaged here in Potel's signature silky suaveness. Tightly wound at this stage, I expect it will blossom beautifully over the next five years. I also put this one in my cellar. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Vincent Girardin, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Bressandes 2005 ($49, Vineyard Brands): This delicious wine is a great example of how open, juicy and delicate and inviting a 2005 Cote de Beaune Burgundy can be from a top producer. Wonderful purity and delicacy mark the entire experience from the first whiff to the last sensation provided by the wine's finish, and it is seamless and delightful at every point in between. Veterans of the genre know that Burgundy often disappoints. But this is one wine that no one could fail to enjoy. 89 Michael Franz Nov 20, 2007

Jean Claude Boisset, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011 ($55, Boisset USA): Jean Claude Boisset has reinvented itself over the last decade, going from a Burgundy négociant focusing on quantity to one now focusing on quality. It’s a welcome evolution. This Beaune Grèves has plenty of concentration and supporting acidity to keep it balanced. Along with ripe red fruit notes, it delivers the mineraly or stony character that you’d expect from this vineyard. Quite engaging now, it would be a delightful choice for a veal or even beef stew.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2013

Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($29, Kobrand): Jadot invariably produces fine Burgundies from the Beaune commune. The only issue with this premier cru is the hot 2003 vintage, which tipped wines toward ripeness, heaviness, high alcohol and underripe tannins. With 13.5 percent alcohol, this wine has lots of black fruit flavors, but only a bit of the raciness and delicacy typically found in Beaune wines from cooler vintages. 88 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Mousse 2006 ($66, Henriot): Clos de la Mousse, a premier cru vineyard, lies smack in the middle of Beaune. Bouchard owns all of this 8.5-acre vineyard, a rarity in Burgundy where most of the vineyards are split among multiple owners. Very aromatic, this moderate weight wine has captivating cherry-like flavors and good length. Mild, supple tannins make it very appealing now. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Paul Pernot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) "Reversees" 2004 ($30, USA Wine Imports): Ripe, slightly candied fruit aromas, concentrated tart red cherry flavors and spiciness. Acidity is actually a bit too high, even for acid freaks like me, in that it's the dominating impression left on the palate. 87 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

J. M. Boillot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montrevenots 2004 ($34): Light and lean but tasty and quite versatile with food, this wine

features expressive aromas and flavors of lightly tart red cherries. Undertones of spice and very subtly toasty wood offer interesting accents to the core fruit notes. Quite light and delicate, this will perform best with commensurately delicate foods. 85 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2007

Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Grèves (Burgundy, France) "Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus" 2002 ($73, Henriot Inc.): This, Bouchard's flagship wine from Beaune, rarely disappoints and often dazzles. The 2002 dazzles. Long and expansive, it is remarkably 'big' for a wine from Beaune, but has not lost any of its usual elegance or silkiness. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Beaune Greves Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($30, Dreyfus, Ashby): Yes, it's true that Drouhin's Beaune Clos des Mouches is this house's prime Premier Cru Burgundy, but at less than half its price, I'll take their delightful 2004 Beaune Greves. Particularly concentrated for the rather light 2004 vintage, and yet elegant and fine. Ready to drink now and over the next few years. 91 Ed McCarthy Oct 10, 2006

Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2020 ($100, Louis Latour, USA):

The 7.5- acre Les Perrières vineyard lies high up on the slope in a cooler locale, which may help explain this wine’s bright energy in a hot year like 2020. Though tightly wound, as expected from a young top premier cru, its stature shows with gorgeous mineral-scented aromatics and impressive length. Engaging red fruit flavors intermingled with clear stony notes — the site was an ancient quarry — are clearly heard. Pure and precise, it’s a winner.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2022

Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2012 ($80, Louis Latour USA): Consumers tend to forget that the top-tier négociants, such as Louis Latour, make wine from grapes grown in vineyards they own in addition to buying grapes from others. Indeed, Latour, one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy, owns a substantial parcel in Vignes Franches, one of the best premier cru vineyards in Beaune. Hence they bottle it under their Domaine label. Always one their most engaging wines, the 2012 Vignes Franches has an opulence that reflects both the concentration of the vintage and the vineyard’s locale in the southern part of Beaune closer to Pommard. Lovely firmness and bright acidity balances its fleshy character. Though easy to enjoy if you like the youthful vigor or Burgundy, it should develop beautifully over the next decade.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2014

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ursules “Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot” 2013 ($90, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a “grower,” owning vineyards under a variety of Domaine names, such as Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot (i.e., the heirs of Louis Jadot), throughout the Côte d’Or. Jadot actually purchased the Clos des Ursules, a walled portion of the Vignes Franches vineyard, 33 years prior to the formation of the company. Typical of the wines from the southern part of Beaune, the Clos des Ursules is more muscular than the typical wine from that appellation. The 2013 Clos des Ursules, from a “difficult” vintage because of the rains at harvest, is an overwhelming success. Showing none of the dilution characteristic of some of the wines from that vintage, it has deep slightly wild savory notes impeccably balanced by black fruit and good tannic structure. Clos des Ursules is always one of Jadot’s best wines and consistently ranks with the top wines from any grower’s Beaune wines. I’d put this one in the cellar for five to ten years.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2016

Joseph Drouhin, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Mouches 2003 ($76):

The biggest gripe about the price of Burgundy has less to do with the amount in dollars than it does the quality in the glass. Too often high-priced reds that have been riding on a great reputation disappoint. Not so Drouhin's Clos des Mouches from the controversial 2003 vintage. This south-facing vineyard between Pommard and Beaune ripened fully during the extremely warm '03 growing season, but managed to retain good balance and elegance in spite of the unusual conditions. It's a soft, inviting Burgundy with notes of ripe black cherry and spice, full-bodied on the palate and persistence through a very long finish.

Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($40, Kobrand): A special bottling to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, this Beaune Premier Cru is a blend of approximately 20 different premier cru vineyards, according to Frédéric Barnier, Jadot’s new technical director who will be replacing the legendary Jacques Lardière next year. Although Jadot owns vineyards and makes wines from throughout the Cote d’Or, they are based in Beaune and wanted to create, as Barnier says, “an expression of Beaune.” They have succeeded admirably. It is just being released, a year later than Jadot’s other 2009s, because they aged it in tank longer to allow all of the various components to come together. Quite opulent, especially for a wine from Beaune, it reflects of the great 2009 vintage. Despite its richness, it’s not heavy and has wonderful structure. Its silky texture and interplay of fruit and herbal notes makes it all the more engaging. It’s easy to enjoy now, but knowing how Jadot’s wines evolve, I’d have no hesitancy about cellaring it for a decade. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012

Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Toussaints 2012 ($45, Kobrand): Wines from premier cru vineyards in from Beaune, especially from top producers, such as Louis Jadot, while not cheap, remain a relative bargain for Burgundy. This Toussaints, from one of their domaines (Domaine Gagey), delivers more weight and power than you’d expect from Beaune and reflects the character of the 2012 vintage. Its appealing floral quality might indicate a forward and accessible wine, but it’s really tightly packed at this stage. It’s a terrific young wine with the requisite balance and energizing acidity to develop nicely. Polished tannins envelope this young, but complete, wine. Jadot’s wines are built for the long haul, so find a place in the cellar for this one.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2015

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Couchereaux 2009 ($40, Kobrand): There should be no question about the quality of the 2009 vintage for red Burgundy. A potential criticism is that they lack structure that would allow them to develop complexity with age. Well, one sip of this wine dispels that notion. Since tasting it from barrel, it has taken on more structure and firmness without losing any of its charm. The fruit notes are ripe and succulent as expected given the character of the vintage. The enlivening acidity amplifies them. Not a brooding powerhouse, its appeal lies with its length and finesse. At the risk of repeating myself, you can’t have too many ‘09 red Burgundies in your cellar. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2012

Louis Jadot, Beaune Vignes Franches Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ursules 2016 ($92, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

The Burgundy house of Louis Jadot offers a wide range of red and white wines, from regional wines to a number of Grands Crus. Their Beaune Clos des Ursules is always one of their top Côte de Beaune reds. The Clos des Ursules is a Jadot Monopole vineyard that lies within the Premier Cru Vignes Franches. The 2016 bottling is a great success. This is a rich Pinot Noir that shows a combination of power, delicacy and complexity. Ripe black cherry, red cherry and raspberry fruit aromas are enhanced by violet, herb, earth and baking spice tones. The flavors are rich and layered, with the pure black and red fruits followed by floral, earthy, herb, smoke and baking spice elements. Delicious now with a bit of aeration, it will cellar well for another 10 to 15 years.
93 Wayne Belding Aug 27, 2019

Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune-Grèves (Burgundy, France) "Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus" 2007 ($97, Henriot, Inc.): This is Bouchard’s flagship wine from the heart of the famed Beaune-Grèves vineyard. At trade tastings, they even offer it after the conventionally more highly regarded wines from the Corton appellation. Lighter and more forward than usual--reflective of the 2007 vintage--the mixture of bright red fruit and a stoniness still dances across the palate. A charming wine at this stage, delivering flavor without weight. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 12, 2010

Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune-Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus” 2007 ($97, Henriot, Inc.):

This is Bouchard’s flagship wine from the heart of the famed Beaune-Grèves vineyard. At trade tastings, they even offer it after the conventionally more highly regarded wines from the Corton appellation. Lighter and more forward than usual--reflective of the 2007 vintage--the mixture of bright red fruit and a stoniness still dances across the palate. A charming wine at this stage, delivering flavor without weight. 89 Michael Apstein Nov 9, 2010

Thierry & Pascale Matrot, Blagny (Burgundy, France) La Piéce Sous le Bois 2005 ($52, Vineyard Brands): Red wine grown in Blagny, a village that straddles Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, is sold as Blagny, whereas the whites (made from Chardonnay) are sold under the name Meursault-Blagny. Matrot is the largest grower of Blagny and, in a way, it is the flagship wine. Ripe and full, but not overdone, wild exotic berry flavors capture your palate and persist. Wonderful length and balance make this an excellent choice. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Benjamin Leroux, Blagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Piece Sous le Bois 2019 ($80, Becky Wasserman Selection):

The hamlet of Blagny sits high on the slope within the limits of Meursault and adjacent to Puligny-Montrachet. Red wines from this terroir carry the Blagny appellation, while whites are labeled Meursault-Blagny. The elevation of the site, which keeps the grapes cool, plus the talent of Benjamin Leroux accounts for the wine’s charm and balance. This one, typical of red wines from this locale, has a subtle exotic clove or all-spice character. The velvety texture makes you think of Volnay. As with Leroux’s Savigny-les-Beaune, this red Blagny has charm and finesse, which makes it delightful for current consumption. But don’t be fooled by the precocious pleasure it provides. This, too, will evolve beautifully.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 18, 2022

Louis Jadot, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($125, Kobrand): Always my favorite, Jadot's Bonnes Mares, a domaine wine, is suave, long, layered, and luxurious. The tannins and structure are there, but unobtrusive, and bode well for development. 97 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Maison Drouhin, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($200, Dreyfus Ashby): A domaine bottling, this Bonnes Mares is staggeringly good, plush and balanced, with a seemingly endless finish. 96 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Chanson, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2017 ($23, Vintus):

One of Burgundy’s most historic estates, Domaine Chanson is one of a tiny handful of producers still making wine since the 18th century. The Chanson Pinot Noir grapes were sourced from estate owned vineyards in the Côte de Nuits and in other terroirs in the southern Côte de Beaune. Ruby red, and with inviting fresh berry aromas and flavors, Chanson dances across the palate. Perfect for poultry, splendid with salmon.
92 Marguerite Thomas May 19, 2020

Louis Jadot, Bourgogne (France) Pinot Noir 2005 ($20, Kobrand): Pinot lovers are forever searching for a Pinot Noir that tastes like a Pinot Noir for under $20. Louis Jadot has come to the rescue with this juicy richly-textured Pinot, from the Cote d'Or and Cote Chalonnaise that just squeaks in at $20. Brilliant medium ruby in color, the aromatics are intense cranberry and spice, while the lush flavors lean more to tangy cherry-berry. It's structured with firm refined tannins and layers of forward fruit. This is a great value and should be enjoyed while it's young and vibrant. 92 Gerald D. Boyd May 15, 2007

Domaine Lucien Boillot & Fils, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($22, Kermit Lynch): Vivid, fresh fruit flavors, mainly tart red berries and spice, plus lively acidity, with concentrated fruit on the finish. This wine will improve with a bit of age. A well-balanced, impressive Bourgogne! 91 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Catherine et Claude Marechal, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) "Cuvee Gravel" 2004 ($23, Louis Dressner Selections): Similar to the Boillot Bourgogne with its high acidity and rich, red and black berry fruit, but just a tad riper and sweeter. A totally delicious Bourgogne, ready now. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir "Vero" 2002 ($22, Dreyfus Ashby): Named after winemaker Veronique Drouhin, this is the firm's upscale Bourgogne. Soft, full and ample, with loosely-knit flavors of red and black fruits. Complete and well balanced, a beautifully integrated Bourgogne. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Louis Jadot, Bourgogne (France) Pinot Noir 2005 ($20, Kobrand): When our cups runneth over with sweet, heavy, soulless Pinot Noir it's good to be reminded what the real stuff is supposed to taste like. This is classic, fundamental Pinot, with clean cherry flavors, just enough earthiness to keep it interesting, medium body, and fine tannins. Proof that you don't have to mortgage the house to enjoy basic Burgundy, this Jadot offering also restores one's faith in Pinot Noir as a wonderful food wine. 90 Marguerite Thomas May 8, 2007

Louis Jadot, Bourgogne (France) Pinot Noir 2005 ($20, Kobrand): Basic Bourgogne rouge rarely proves impressive, being made mostly with grapes grown outside of the more prestigious vineyards in Burgundy, but this one is a delight. Though a bit grapey at first, it opens with time in glass to deliver just what Pinot Noir should but so rarely does--succulent fruit, echoes of spice, and most important, a silky, supple texture that makes it very enjoyable to sip. (Definitely decant this wine; it needs aeration to be at its best.) I've heard all sorts of praise heaped on the 2005 vintage in Burgundy. Maybe, for once, the hype is true. 90 Paul Lukacs May 8, 2007

Hubert Lignier, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) "Passetoutgrains" 2004 ($16, Neal Rosenthal): Lovely, earthy, mushroomy, herbal and spicy aromas, with red fruit flavors, especially raspberries, with a slight candied impression. A delicious wine, vaguely reminiscent of cherry cola. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Alice et Olivier De Moor, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) "Chitry" 2004 ($20, Vintage '59 Imports): Generally speaking, buying straight Bourgogne goes beyond a crap shoot to being sheer stupidity. The things are almost always thin, nasty, screechy and fruitless, and you couldn't be blamed for giving up on the whole genre and turning to beer. Then you taste something like this. Lean but precise in its balance of acidity to fruit, with just the right indirect influence of oak to advance the wine's maturity but not flavor it overtly, this is clearly made by careful, thoughtful people (whom I've never met). Intensely mineral through the finish, this is a faith-restoring bottle. 88 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2006

Domaine Bart, Bourgogne (France) Pinot Noir 2009 ($13, Jeanne-Marie de Champs): The 2009 vintage for red Burgundy is fabulous. The wines at the lower end of the prestige ladder, such as Bourgogne Rouge, will be especially attractive because the extra ripeness of the vintage helps even more at this level. Combine that with Domaine Bart, one of Burgundy’s under-appreciated producers, and you have a top quality wine at a bargain price. Domaine Bart’s origin, only in the 1980s when the famous Clair-Daü estate was broken up, explains its relative obscurity. But, as part of the former Clair-Daü estate, the vineyards are well located and older than the Domaine itself. Their 2009 Bourgogne Rouge, with 100% Pinot Noir on the label just to remind consumers, has bright strawberry-like flavors touched by a hint of earthiness to remind you it’s Burgundy. Supple and forward, it’s a good choice for immediate consumption. 88 Michael Apstein May 24, 2011

Faiveley, Bourgogne (France) Pinot Noir "Jospeh Faiveley" 2003 ($17, Wilson Daniels): Hot years aren't generally good for Pinot Noir in most regions, but that isn't the case with Bourgogne Rouge, which in cool years can be just about the world's most tart, pinched, anemic red. This wine from the famously hot 2003 vintage is a remarkably ripe, substantial, delicious overachiever that is full of ripe red cherry fruit backed by fine-grained tannins. Please don't regard my first sentence or the word "overachiever" as signs that I'm damning this with faint praise because that isn't the case. This is a delicious wine, an excellent value&and an excellent choice for Thanksgiving. 88 Michael Franz Nov 8, 2005

Jean-Marc Pillot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) "Les Grandes Terres" 2004 ($22, Neal Rosenthal): Spicy aromas combine with earthy flavors and delicate fruit to make the Pillot Bourgogne just lovely to drink now. Well-balanced, although alcohol (13 percent) is a bit high in the balance. Dry tannins complement the red and black berry fruit flavors. 88 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2004 ($17, Kobrand): One of Burgundy's greatest producers, Maison Louis Jadot has fashioned a beautiful introduction to red Burgundy with this wine. Uncharacteristic for the French, who typically shun grape names, Jadot plasters "Pinot Noir" in large type across the label just in case you forgot that all red Burgundy comes from that grape. Succulent red cherry-like flavors harmonize with a touch of earthiness in this smooth, mid-weight, supple wine. It has surprising balance, persistence and style for a Pinot Noir-based wine at this price. California Pinot Noir producers, be warned. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006

Nicolas Potel, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Maison Dieu 2002 ($19, Frederick Wildman): Potel owns just one small, four-acre, vineyard called Maison Dieu between the towns of Beaune and Pommard, on the "wrong side of the tracks." The wine doesn't even qualify for a town name, but must be sold under Burgundy's least prestigious appellation, Bourgogne. Despite its lack of pedigree, it's a lovely wine, silky and rich, without heaviness. It surprises with layers of flavors expected only in wines from grander locales. (Starting with the 2003 vintage, Potel will label this wine as Cuvée Gerard Potel to honor his father.) A great buy. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Albert Bichot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($16, Arborway Imports): Bichot, an underrated Burgundy négociant, will attract considerable attention with this bargain-priced, succulent Pinot Noir. It has real Burgundy character--earth notes combined with bright fruit--and is perfect for current consumption. 87 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir "LaForet" 2004 ($14, Dreyfus Ashby): Black-fruit and spice aromas and soft, ample palate with fairly low tannin; fresh, round, and upfront. In many respects, a textbook Bourgogne. 87 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Louis Jadot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2004 ($18, Kobrand): Tart red fruit (mainly cherry) flavors dominate. Spicy and sassy in personality, with good acidity. Just a bit on the light side; ready to drink now. 87 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Vincent Girardin, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) “Cuvee Saint Vincent” 2005 ($20, Vineyard Brands):

The excellence of both the vintner and the vintage show up clearly in this exemplary bottle of Bourgogne Rouge. That may sound like damning with faint praise, since Bourgogne Rouge is a famously poor category, yet this wine is actually very tasty, with soft, delicate fruit notes recalling black cherries and nice nuances of spices and minerals. It is appropriately light for a Pinot Noir-based wine, but not thin or watery, and proves very satisfying.

Domaine Jacky Renard, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($10, Bayfield Importing): As ripe and rich as we expect a 2003 to be. Not a "berry" wine, more like black plums. It lacks the delicacy of some of the more expensive Bourgognes, but a great value! 86 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Faiveley, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2004 ($17, Wilson Daniels): The high price of decent California, Oregon and New Zealand Pinot Noir has me looking, of all places, to Burgundy for a bargain. Though the '04 vintage was one of the weaker vintages for red Burgundy in recent years, this Faiveley Bourgogne is quite good for the price, offering generous red-fruit aromas of strawberry and cherry, a bit of grip in the structure and pleasing spice notes on the back end.
86 Robert Whitley May 15, 2007

Vincent Girardin, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir “Emotion de Terroirs” 2005 ($24, Vineyard Brands): A fairly nondescript basic Bourgogne that, despite the proprietary name, does not seem to bespeak much in the way of terroir, as it tastes simply of fruit. Girardin makes many excellent wines. This isn't one of them, and at $24 seems significantly over-priced. 84 Paul Lukacs Oct 23, 2007

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne (France) Pinot Noir "Laforet" 2006 ($16, Dreyfus Ashby): With pretty strawberry and red cherry aromas to draw you into the glass, this vintage of Drouhin's Laforet starts off on the right foot but ultimately disappoints with its lack of weight and depth, and slightly bitter green tannins. Turbo-charged Bourgogne from recent vintages that were riper and sexier have perhaps spoiled us. Nothing wrong with this wine. It's more the rule than the exception for Borgogne rouge. 81 Robert Whitley Aug 19, 2008

Domaine Pierre Morey, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2006 ($27, Wilson Daniels): The French are finally caving in to the idea of putting the grape name on the label -- at least for their lower-level appellation controllée wines, such as this Bourgogne Rouge. Pierre Morey is one of the most talented and rigorous winemakers in Burgundy and this, his lowest level wine, speaks to his ability. This lip smacking good Pinot Noir occupies the other end of the spectrum from the very ripe, sometimes jammy style of Pinot Noir coming out of California. Here you find earth, leafiness and good grip to balance the combination of red and black fruit. California Pinot Noir lovers approach with caution. Those wishing to sample authentic red Burgundy, dive in. Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne AOC (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($26, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.):

Treat yourself to this bright, lively wine with cherry, raspberry fruit, spicy, savory notes and crisp acidity. It is at home with picnic fare, a juicy burger, chicken roasted or fried. Twenty-two year old Joseph Drouhin moved from the Chablis region in Burgundy to Beaune to establish a wine company in 1880. His son, Maurice, added vineyards for the company. In 1957, Robert Drouhin took over, adding vineyards, building a oenology laboratory and hiring the first woman enologist Laurence Jobard, to run it. Today Joseph Drouhin is one of the largest wine companies in the Burgundy region with 80 hectares (197.5 acres) of vines. They grow their own nursery stock and farm organically and biodynamically, using horses to work the vineyards. As stated on their website “Our credo is to bring natural answers to natural problems."
92 Rebecca Murphy Apr 18, 2023

Giraudon, Bourgogne Chitry (Burgundy, France) “Cépage Pinot Noir” 2010 ($20, Wine Traditions Ltd.): Most wines from this little known appellation between Chablis and Auxerre, are simply labeled Bourgogne Rouge because virtually no one has heard of Chitry. Giraudon reminds us--with the moniker Cépage Pinot Noir--that this wine is made entirely from Pinot Noir because regulations allow a small amount of César, an obscure grape, in the blend. A light bodied wine, bright cherry-like and subtle leafy flavors dance across the palate. Try it with a roast chicken, tonight. Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($26, Kobrand):

In a word, delicious! And an extraordinary value. You rarely see Burgundy of this quality at this price. Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, takes advantage of a relatively new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which means all the grapes came from the famed Côte d’Or part of Burgundy, rather than the region’s less prestigious subzones. One sip explains why the Côte d’Or is so revered. With plenty of dark red fruit but enough savory balance creating an alluring ying/yang, this mid-weight wine shouts authentic Burgundy in contrast to the all too many New World fruit-focused Pinot Noir. Bracing uplifting acidity keeps it fresh. The long and graceful finish is astounding for a “simple” Bourgogne. This wonderful Bourgogne shows that value exists in Burgundy today. Though ready to drink now — the tannins are finely polished — I bet even with this lowly pedigree it will evolve nicely over the next five years. I usually don’t focus on the packaging — I am more interested in what’s in the bottle — but this is a startlingly unconventional and modern label for Jadot, a traditional producer. My editor, no doubt, will shudder at a 93-point score for a Bourgogne Rouge, but it deserves high praise for what it delivers for the price. My advice, buy it by the case.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 22, 2023

Maison Louis Latour, Bourgogne Gamay (France) 2011 ($16, Louis Latour USA): Bourgogne Gamey is a newly created appellation for Burgundy with the 2011 vintage that allows producers to blend Gamay grown in the crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais with Pinot Noir. It differs and is a step above the longstanding and locally popular appellation Bourgogne Passetoutgrains because the Gamay for Passetoutgrains can come from anywhere within Beaujolais. With their first vintage, Maison Louis Latour has produced a thoroughly charming wine. The earthy fruitiness of Gamay grown in superior places comes through and is buttressed by a pleasing firmness of Pinot Noir. Low in tannins, it’s even more refreshing slightly chilled, which makes it a fine alternative to rosé for summertime drinking. It’s the French countryside in a bottle.
89 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2013

Domaine Dominique Guyon, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames de Vergy” 2018 ($30):

The Hautes Côtes de Nuits, a regional appellation, sits above and behind (to the west) of the Côte de Nuits, a sort of hinterland. Many of the reds from here have a rustic charm. Dominique Guyon, the son of another fabulous producer, Antonin Guyon, makes a more refined version than many. It delivers dark ripe juicy fruit, savory spice and fine tannins, making this charmer another good choice at Thanksgiving, or, frankly, anytime.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2020

Mongeard-Mugneret, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2010 ($30): The Hautes Côtes, a far less prestigious area of Burgundy, is the source of good value wines from top-notch producers, such as Mongeard-Mugneret. This one packs a little more power than their straight Bourgogne Rouge that is coupled with a charming rusticity. It’s authentic Burgundy that’s perfect for a roast chicken. 89 Michael Apstein Jun 12, 2012

Domaine Lucien Jacob, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($20, Neal Rosenthal): Ripe black fruit aromas and a significant tannin component, with flavors characteristic of the '03 vintage, but concentrated fruit flavors linger on the palate, suggesting potential to age. 88 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Domaine Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or. Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy. Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.
89 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013

Domaine Stèphane Magnien, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Densité” 2011 ($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Passetoutgrain is a blend of Gamy and Pinot Noir. When the vines are planted in the right place, as in Stèphane Magnien’s case, the wines can be delightful. Magnien makes two different cuvées of a Bourgogne Passetougrain. As the name of this one suggests, it is denser. Spicy, fruity and pleasantly rustic, it’s perfect for hamburgers on the grill. Remember it for next summer because it is delightful chilled.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013

Trapet Père et Fils, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (Burgundy, France) “A Minima” 2017 ($28, Polaner Selections):

Trapet Père et Fils, one of the great growers based in Gevery-Chambertin, makes outstanding wines from that village and neighboring villages, such as Marsannay. They also make this under-the-radar wine with an eye-catching nearly blank label with tiny letters. Unlike the vast majority of red wines from Burgundy, which are made entirely from Pinot Noir, Passetoutgrains is made from a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. It’s a juicy spicy thoroughly engaging wine. Though not a cerebral Burgundy that make you stop and think, it’s a perfect choice for take-out rotisserie chicken.
89 Michael Apstein May 7, 2019

Robert Chevillon, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($25, Kermit Lynch): More Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (a blend of at least one-third Pinot Noir and the remainder Gamay) is made than Bourgogne Rouge, but very little reaches our shores. It's too bad because when well-made, like this one, it is a bright and juicy wine with refreshing rusticity perfect for current drinking with simple fare like a roast chicken. 86 Michael Apstein Oct 21, 2008

Lucien Le Moine, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($62, Vintus):

Lucien Le Moine, a tiny “boutique” négociant, bottles only about 100 barrels of premier and grand cru red and white Burgundies annually (about 2,500 12-bottle cases). They are of uniformly high-quality, in short supply, and expensive. He also produces a Bourgogne Rouge and Bourgogne Blanc that are more readily available and punch far above their weight class. They give consumers an opportunity to see his talents, which are all the more impressive at this lowest level of appellation ladder. Take this 2019 Bourgogne Rouge, for example. It’s an extraordinary wine in its category. Generally, the 2019 vintage produced big, ripe wines, with potential for over-ripeness and high alcohols. Le Moine managed to tame the vintage with this wine. Weighing in at only a stated 13-percent alcohol, it delivers the Janus-like fruity savory profile for which Burgundy is known. Fresh and lively without a hint of over-ripeness, you would never know it’s from a hot vintage. It’s balanced and approachable even now, delivering, what is for me, the quintessential Burgundian quality of flavor without weight. This is a seductive Burgundy that throws a wrench into the whole appellation hierarchy system because it is far better than many producers’ village wines. Expensive for Bourgogne Rouge? Yes, but it doesn’t taste like most producers’ Bourgogne Rouge.
94 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2022

Rue de Perle, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2017 ($13, Winery Exchange):

This is a vibrant, focused Pinot Noir with a confident structure that isn’t at all imposing. It's a dry, crisp wine that shows why Burgundy is seen as the “come back to me” glass. At this price you can come back next week, and the week after that. A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Mike Dunne Jun 23, 2020

Domaine Guillot-Broux, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) "Les Genièvrières" 2020 ($46, Vintus):

This stunning Bourgogne Rouge will change your mind about the quality of red wines coming from the Mâconnais. Firstly, Domaine Guillot-Broux is clearly a talented and detail-oriented producer. They waited 18 years before making a wine from Les Genièvrières, a vineyard in Cruzille, a village not far from the Abbaye de Cluny, because they didn’t think the vines were old enough to produce high-quality wine! (Some wineries would label 18-year-old vines as “old vines”.) They have three plots in the vineyard, all of which are planted with Pinot Noir. The grapes from two plots with shallow soil bring structure to the wine, while the Pinot Noir planted on the third plot with thicker soil deliver fruitiness. The resulting mid-weight 2020 is a brilliant combination of firm minerality and haunting red fruitiness. I suspect it will develop even more complexity because of its balance, but it’s hard not to pop the cork now to enjoy with grilled salmon.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2023

Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($37, Becky Wasserman Selection):

Becky Wasserman’s name on a bottle is a sure sign of quality. Her name is never on the front label -- that’s reserved for the producer and appellation. Seeing her name on the back label is a superb recommendation for a producer you may have never heard of. This is especially useful navigating the myriad of small producers in Burgundy, one of whom is Lignier-Michelot. Virgile Lignier is the third generation in charge at this small family-run firm based in Morey-St. Denis. They make a consistently outstanding line-up, so a good place to start is with their “simple” Bourgogne Rouge. The grapes -- all Pinot Noir -- come from vineyards that lie just outside the limits of Morey St. Denis and Chambolle-Musigny, two of the most famous villages in the Côte de Nuits. Not surprisingly, given this pedigree, Lignier-Michelot’s Bourgogne Rouge hits well above its weight class. Nicely balanced, it delivers a charming combination of bright red fruit and earthiness. Not flamboyant, it focuses on the savory, not the fruity, side of Pinot Noir.

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) "Les Grands Chaillots" 2019 ($36, Vineyard Brands):

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair owns a number of high-end Burgundy sites that date back to the 18th Century. The Domaine’s Les Grands Chaillots shows all the elegance and balance of Burgundy without an extreme price tag or expectation of aging that comes from their higher-end offerings. It displays the traditional cranberry, pomegranate, mineral and earthy notes to satisfy the tastes of my nerdiest Burgundy-loving friends. This is a great wine to enjoy while letting bigger reds age properly.
91 Vince Simmon Jul 25, 2023

Château de la Maltroye, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($27):

Château de la Maltroye, a top producer of both red and white wines from Chassagne-Montrachet, makes this charming Bourgogne Rouge from vineyards in that village that lie outside the boundaries of the village appellation. Delicate red fruit flavors balance its savory, herbal side. Bright and forward, it would fit nicely on the Thanksgiving table.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2020

Domaine du Château de Chorey, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($25, Becky Wasserman Selection):

A vintage like 2009, bathed in perfect weather during the entire growing season and through harvest, was especially beneficial to the lesser appellations that in poorer years suffer from under-ripe grapes that translate into thin wines. That’s why in 2009 a low prestige category, such as Bourgogne Rouge, from a conscientious producer, like Château du Chorey, is a bargain-priced over-achiever delivering far more than you’d expect. With the near magical combination of fruitiness and earthiness, this wine will delight both seasoned Burgundy fans and those who want to explore the region’s wines but don’t know where to start. Despite its lowly pedigree and reasonable price, it has the hallmark of Burgundy--flavor without weight. It’s a marvelous choice this winter for a simple roasted chicken. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2012

Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($29, Becky Wasserman Selection): There is an advantage to buying “grower” wines (as opposed to those made by a négociant) with a regional appellation, such as Bourgogne Rouge, which theoretically could come from anywhere within Burgundy. The consumer knows the approximate locale because most growers’ vineyards are located near their winery. Indeed, this Bourgogne Rouge comes from grapes grown in several parcels within the confines of Morey St. Denis, but, obviously, not in vineyards that carry that Morey St. Denis appellation. (Wines labeled Morey St. Denis would be at least twice as expensive.) Despite the down-market appellation, this wine actually conveys a bit of the dark cherry firmness characteristic of wines from Morey St. Denis. Not an opulent New World Pinot Noir, it’s a great introduction to the marvels of Burgundy that’s easy to enjoy now.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2012 ($27, Frederick Wildman & Sons):

The 2012 vintage in Burgundy is good news/bad news. The good news is that, in general, the reds were excellent. The bad news is that the crop was decreased markedly by bad weather, which means much higher prices. The Bourgogne rouge, a regional appellation lacking prestige, in 2012 is a good place for Burgundy fans to start because the short crop gave these wines an extra dollop of concentration. And with rare exception, this lowly appellation can never command high prices, so wines from top-notch producers, such as Lignier-Michelot, are a great value. This one is beautifully structured with the right balance of fruit and savory components all supported by fine tannins. This is my roast chicken kind of red Burgundy.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 25, 2014

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) “Le Chapitre” 2012 ($31, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):

This Bourgogne Rouge delivers far more than you’d expect from that simple appellation and shows that the producer often trumps terroir. A look at the label explains why. First, Maison Louis Jadot is one of Burgundy’s top producers. Second, the Domaine Gagey in the box on the bottom of the label means that Pierre-Henri Gagey, who runs Jadot, owns the vineyard, Le Chapitre, which is located in the Côte de Nuits just outside of Dijon. Third, the 2012 vintage, with its low yields, produced concentrated wines and was especially beneficial to lower level appellations. I tasted this wine from barrel two years ago and loved its concentration and complexity, but thought at the time it lacked elegance. What a difference two years makes! It’s still concentrated with a great interplay of fruity and earthy flavors. But now there’s a gracefulness to the wine -- the Burgundian sensibility of flavor without weight. This is a wonderful introduction to the charms of Burgundy. It’s also a reminder to those of us who love Burgundy that you don’t need to drink wines from exalted appellation to capture the essence of that region. Considering the prices of Pinot Noir in general and Burgundy in particular, Jadot’s Le Chapitre is a bargain.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 4, 2015

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Margot" 2009 ($25, Frederick Wildman): Bourgogne Rouge is often one of the world’s most inconsitent and ungenerous wines, but the 2009 vintage sent a wave of quality across virtually all of the appellations making red wine. This bottle shows that fact in spades, with an atypical depth and persistence of flavor. Importantly, however, it isn’t chunky or blockish in the way that some wines from the hot 2003 vintage were; there’s still an admirable freshness and delicacy that keep the style firmly rooted in Burgundy. 90 Michael Franz May 1, 2012

Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. And since 2007, when the winemaking was handed over to François’s daughter, Nicole, and the vineyard management to her cousin, Nathalie, the quality of the wines has gotten even better. This Bourgogne Rouge delivers engaging Côte de Nuits-style character -- earthy and deep, yet clean and bright -- that won’t break the bank. If you want to know what Côte de Nuits wines taste like, this is the place to start.
89 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013

Domaine Gallois, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The nice thing about a wine carrying only a Bourgogne appellation from a grower is that you know roughly the origin of the grapes, since they must have come from the grower’s domaine. That explains why this Bourgogne Rouge from Gallois, who is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, tastes like a miniature Gevrey-Chambertin. Sure, it lacks the polish and complexity of Gallois’s wines from Gevrey-Chambertin -- but it’s also half the price. It’s a reasonable trade-off.
89 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013

Maison L'Envoye, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($25, Old Bridge Cellars):

Maison L’Envoyé brings together Evening Land founder Mark Tarlov and the very talented Burgundy guru, Becky Wasserman (according to their promotional materials, which also tell us that the grapes come from growers’ vineyards in Beaune, the Hautes-Côtes, and even premier cru Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets). This wonderfully high-value wine is a must-buy for consumers who want to introduce themselves to the virtues of red Burgundy, and likewise for Burgundy aficionados who want the real thing without spending a fortune. It captures the duality that Burgundy provides, a bright fruitiness -- red in this case -- and a savory quality. Mild tannins provide structure without intruding. This is a perfect wine for current consumption -- what I call a “roast chicken” wine.
89 Michael Apstein Dec 29, 2015

Domaines Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Couvent des Jacobins” 2009 ($22, Kobrand): This Bourgogne Rouge is a real treat from Jadot
because the grapes come entirely from the domains they control:

Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot, and Domaine Gagey, which explains the labeling. No purchased grapes or wine go into this bottling, which distinguishes it from Jadot’s other Bourgogne Rouge. Pinot Noir is prominently displayed on the front label--you need to look at the back to see the appellation Bourgogne. But one taste and you know it’s real Burgundy. Not a New World fruit bomb, red fruit notes and subtle herbal nuances dance across the palate. Vibrant acidity keeps it fresh throughout a meal. It would be a good choice for grilled salmon. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Foret” 2006 ($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores. Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one. This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. Mild tannins lend support but allow immediate enjoyment. Not a California blockbuster, it’s a wine that shows the elegance and grace of Pinot Noir from Burgundy--at a very attractive price. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2009

Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($22, Frederick Wildman): Bourgogne Rouge comes from the least well-sited vineyards in Burgundy, ones that frequently don’t produce fully ripe grapes. The virtue of the 2009 vintage is that the warmth of the growing season ripened grapes even in the least desirable parcels. That’s why I’m so enthusiastic about the “lesser” red wines from that year. Faiveley’s 2009 Bourgogne Rouge reflects the vintage and delivers clean and pure ripe cherry-like fruitiness coupled with bright minerality. This is an easy-to-recommend satisfying wine that shows the uniqueness of Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Katherine & Claude Marechal, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Gravel” 2006 ($32, Louis Dressner Selections): Bourgogne Rouge--although a 'simple' appellation--can be an excellent buy in good vintages from serious producers, such as this one. It also serves an excellent introduction to red Burgundy and its contrast with the same variety from our West Coast, Pinot Noir. This one is a classic balance of spice, herbs and ripe red fruit flavors. Good length separates it from ordinary Bourgogne Rouge. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2008

Lucien Boillot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($25, Kermit Lynch): Consumers tend to ignore the 2006 vintage for red Burgundy because it followed--and was overshadowed by--the sensational 2005 vintage. It’s too bad because many fine wines, such as this one, were made that year. Though from a “lowly” Bourgogne Rouge appellation, the wine delivers more than the appellation suggests because it was made by a talented producer using only his--not purchased--grapes. Pleasantly plush and forward, it has surprisingly good weight and intensity for Bourgogne Rouge, tasting more like many producers’ village wines. This nicely balanced wine is a good opportunity for consumers to explore the style of Pinot Noir in Burgundy without breaking the bank. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 6, 2010

Maison Albert Bichot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2011 ($18, Horizon Beverage Company): Both Burgundy fans will and newcomers to this mine field-laden region will be thrilled with this bargain priced wine. Burgundy aficionados will embrace it because it’s an authentic red Burgundy at great price, delivering earthiness to complement its fruitiness. Newcomers will love it because it’s an excellent introduction to red Burgundy without breaking the bank. Not a New World weighty Pinot Noir replete with ripe fruit, this one delivers the typical delicacy and persistence of Burgundy. Enjoy its charms with a roast chicken today.
88 Michael Apstein Sep 24, 2013

Maison Ambroise, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Aires” 2009 ($20, Robert Kacher Selection): The source--a fifth of the wine comes from the appellations of Nuits St Georges and Cotes de Nuits Village--and the 45 year average age of the vines explains why this wine is so remarkable. This very fragrant Bourgogne Rouge delivers an enchanting combination of red fruit flavors and earthy herbal notes. Long and fresh, it’s a great introduction to Burgundy. Bring out the roast chicken. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2012

Maison Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2013 ($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The transformation of Maison Joseph Faiveley under the leadership of Erwan Faiveley and his team has been extraordinary, catapulting the house into the top tier of Burgundy’s top producers. And the quality of the wines shows at all levels, from their top Grand Crus to this “simple” Bourgogne Rouge, which shows the charm and allure of red Burgundy. Not in the bolder style of California Pinot Noir, Faiveley’s Bourgogne Rouge shows the multifaceted character of that grape, delivering bright fruit and savory earthiness simultaneously. It’s almost impossible to find Pinot Noir-based wine of this quality at this price. Uncork it with a roast chicken.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016

Maison Lou Dumont, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($29, Langdon Shiverick Imports):

A wonderful Bourgogne Rouge, this wine demonstrates the appeal of Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy, combining the fruitiness of the variety with the savory character that must come from the locale. Its impact belies its delicacy. A charming rusticity makes it an excellent choice for a roast chicken with an aromatic mushroom sauce. And looking at the prices that California Pinot Noir command, it’s a bargain.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2015

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2021 ($22, Kobrand):

Value in Burgundy these days is found at the lower pedigree appellations made by talented producers. Enter this Bourgogne Rouge from Jadot. With an engaging combination of savory notes intertwined with hints of red and black fruit, this mid-weight wine is real Burgundy, or Bourgogne as the French would prefer to call it. Thankfully, like Burgundy in general, it’s not heavy or particularly fruity. That character along with its bright acidity and mild tannins make it ideal for grilled salmon. It would also take a slight chill nicely which means it’s a good substitute for a Rosé.
88 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2023

Mongeard-Mugneret, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($24, Vineyard Brands): Mongeard-Mugneret, a small grower located in Vosne-Romanée, makes traditionally proportioned graceful Burgundies. They emphasize elegance and persistence rather than shear power. And those characteristics are evident in this Bourgogne Rouge. It’s a fine introduction to true Burgundy, showing the savory and earthy side of Pinot Noir. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 12, 2012

Domaine Maume, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($32): Bourgogne Rouge is a category often overlooked (and rightly so) by consumers. But from good producers, such as Maume, these wines represent a good introduction to Burgundy and its Pinot Noir. Quite forward, this one is full of ripe good black cherry flavors and acidity and balanced by a hint of earthiness. An engaging dollop of creamy oak--characteristic of Maume's wines when young--makes it seductive now. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 21, 2008

Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) La Chapître 2012 ($57, Becky Wasserman Selection):

Sylvain Pataille, a terrific producer based in Marsannay, produces this Bourgogne rouge from vines that average about 35 years of age. Indeed, a third of the vines in this 2.5-acre vineyard date from 1950s. The old vines explain the gorgeous complexity and density you rarely fine in Bourgogne Rouge. Lovely to drink now, it will surely gain more subtlety in the coming years. Sadly, the worldwide clamoring for distinctive red Burgundy explains the price.
87 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2016

Girardin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) "Emotion de Terroirs" 2005 ($24, Vineyard Brands): In really great years, such as 2005, the wines from the lowliest appellations, such as this Bourgogne Rouge, are particularly attractive. Girardin has managed to craft a wine with New World intensity while retaining the earthy character of Burgundy. Bottled with a screwcap, it is a wonderful introduction to red Burgundy and a great bargain. California Pinot Noir producers, take note. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Labouré-Roi, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Maximum” 2006 ($17, Palm Bay International): The problem with almost all Pinots priced in the mid-teens from

virtually anywhere in the world is that they are chunky and obvious rather than sleek and delicate, which is traditionally what connoisseurs have looked for in Pinot. This wine is an exception, and though the delicacy of the wine makes the proprietary name, 'Maximum' seem rather incongruous, you should be able to get over that. Pretty fruit notes recalling red and black cherries are accented with faint notes of forest floor and spice, and fine-grained tannins lend structure without drying the finish. 87 Michael Franz May 19, 2009

Domaine Laurent Martray, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) "Vieilles Vignes" 2004 ($16, Elite Imports): If you think that all Beaujolais has to be innocuous and inconsequential, try this fantastic Brouilly. Light-bodied, but brimming full with enticing flavors (berry fruit, black pepper, sweet spice, and more), it offers a combination of substance and subtlety that's hard to beat. Though the flavor profile is different, since the wine is made with Gamay grapes, its forceful but gentle personality is just what Pinot Noir should deliver, but so very rarely does. Moreover, it's wonderfully food friendly. I had it with braised lamb shanks, a dish that you might think would overwhelm a delicate Beaujolais. The wine more than held its own, and in fact seemed enhanced by the dish. This is wonderful stuff! 92 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2007

Georges Descombes, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2006 ($30): I know, 30 bucks for Beaujolais is a lot of money. But, this is not your father's grapey rendition. Louis Dressner manages to find Beaujolais producers who make distinctive wines. Those of you skeptical of the genre--that includes Michael Franz, my colleague and editor at WRO--really ought to try wines like this one. There is, of course, a mélange of red and black fruit flavors, but what is impressive here is the minerality and earthiness that lend complexity and make this a serious wine. With good structure--mild tannins--this is a Beaujolais that will continue to evolve so, as good as it is now, there's no rush to consume it. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 31, 2009

Georges Duboeuf, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($16, WJ Deutsch): Brouilly is known for its lovely floral aromatics and potential for aging, a process that changes the lovely ripe fruit character of Beaujolais to a more complex Gamay that’s not far from a Cote de Beaune. The deep ruby color, closed-in nose with black cherry and dark plums, follow through to the textured flavors, herbal notes, firm tannins, 13% alcohol and good length.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 25, 2011

Georges Duboeuf, Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Chateau de Nervers 2009 ($15, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.): The up-front ripe strawberry jam aromas that characterize Gamay are here in spades. This single-vineyard Brouilly has a deep rich color and texture, layers of fresh dark fruit flavors, good acidity and a hint of smoky oak. The wine is a bit tight right now but it has length, fruit and structure. Hold this single-domaine Beaujolais for another year or two 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Domaine Dit Barron, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($16, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): When I tasted this in Georges DuBoeuf's lab, I didn't know its history, and I still don't now, but it appears that until a few years ago this wine was made by some members of the Perrin family. I wish I could give you the details on how DuBoeuf got ahold of it, but I spent three days just trying to ask DuBoeuf's legion of PR reps how many different wines they make -- even an approximation within 50 would do -- and never got an answer; they're all too busy dreaming up next year's Beaujolais Nouveau promotions. So I'm not hopeful about learning more about this wine. Pity, because it has nice, distinctive limestone flavor along with the expected red plum and enough tannin to make it interesting. Most of Beaujolais is on granite soils, but Brouilly is on blue stone, says DuBoeuf's enologist Guy Marion, so that would account for the minerality. 89 W. Blake Gray Jan 10, 2012

Georges DuBoeuf, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($13, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): Brouilly, the largest of the Beaujolais crus, is known for good, but not terribly concentrated, wines. This one clearly did read its script and shows why the locals are hailing the 2009 vintage in Beaujolais as one of the best ever. It conveys a lovely floral note with an almost paradoxical delicacy considering how concentrated it is. Ripe and long, with the usual barely noticeable tannins of Beaujolais, it is uncommonly attractive for Brouilly. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2011

Georges Duboeuf, Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 'Flower Label' 2009 ($14, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.): Brouilly is known for light aromatic wines with good texture. This 2009 is a little closed in the nose, but shows good fruit, ripe berry notes and ample length through the juicy finish. Brouilly is one of the most popular crus and this one extends that popularity. 89 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Joseph Drouhin, Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Domaine des Hospices de Belleville 2014 ($23):

This Brouilly has the distinctive floral nose of some gamay. Slightly light-bodied and with delicate red-fruit nuance, it nevertheless shows firm grip on the finish, indicating it is a Beaujolais that will hold and likely improve for up to five years.
88 Robert Whitley May 10, 2016

Joseph Drouhin, Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2005 ($17, Dreyfus Ashby): Freshness and brightness are two hallmarks of Beaujolais and this one has them both. With plenty of fruitiness and a balancing acid edge, I could envision drinking lots of this wine with steak-frites. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 28, 2006

William Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Champs Royaux” 2007 ($25, Henriot): A terrific Chablis that is quite widely available at a very reasonable

price, this is a wine that would serve as an excellent introduction to the category for the millions of Americans who have never tasted a true Chablis. Medium-bodied, it shows lovely subtle aromas of ripe apples with a mineral streak that also accompanies the fruit on the palate and rides right through the finish, lending a very interesting counterpoint. The acidity is characteristically energetic and prominent for a fine Chablis, but it is ripe rather than sour or grating, and is very nicely integrated with the fruit. An excellent wine and a true exemplar for straight AOC Chablis. Awarded a gold medal in the San Diego International Wine Competition. 92 Michael Franz Apr 7, 2009

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2008 ($65, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Laurent Drouhin, one of the principals of the house, says that his father believes the 2008 Chablis are the “best of his lifetime,” because of the ideal weather during the growing season and their biodynamic farming. Producers have a tendency to praise the current vintage--even when it’s not deserved--because that’s what’s in the cellar ready for sale. But in this case, the praise is deserved. Drouhin’s 2008 white Burgundies, especially their Chablis bottlings, are superb across the board. Their Vaudésir has more power than the highly regarded Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos (previously reviewed), yet retains the distinctive flintiness of Chablis. Its length and balancing vivacity is extraordinary. Plan to drink it over the next year or two before it closes up or, like other Grand Cru white Burgundies, cellar it for 5-10 years. While not cheap, the Grand Cru of Chablis remain Burgundy’s most under-priced wines. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 4, 2010

Alex Gambal, Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($235, Ruby Wine): Alex Gambal’s new winemaker, Geraldine Godot, has brought his red wines to a new level. She modestly told me she didn’t make this wine. She just “raised” it. Well, she did an excellent job. It has superb weight and length, befitting a grand cru, with none of the hardness or angularity that plagued some 2008 reds. Supple tannins are seamlessly integrated into the wine. It has amplitude and persistence. Just when you think the finish has receded on the palate, it reappears. It’s not a massively powerful wine, but it delivers enormous flavor. And that’s its charm and stature. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Jean-Claude Belland, Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($150, VOS Selections): Although located in Santenay in the Cote de Beaune, Belland owns a small portion--less than an acre--of the grand cru vineyard, Chambertin. His 2005 has the earthy and leathery notes atop red and black fruit flavors that make Chambertin so alluring. It gets more impressive as it sits in the glass. Long and elegant, it wows you with finesse, not sheer power, although there's plenty of that as well. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008

Maison Louis Latour, Chambolle Musigny (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($48, Louis Latour, Inc.): Here is a great village wine, fleshy and plump, with unexpected length. Delicious now. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Domaine Bertagna, Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Plantes 2009 ($95, L’Esprit du Vin):

The most amazing thing about this wine is its availability. Most red Burgundies from 2009 (a stellar year in my view) have long since disappeared from the retail market. I have said it before, and it’s worth repeating since I’ve tasted scores more since their release, you can’t have too many 2009 red Burgundies in your cellar. It was a ripe year that produced concentrated wines balanced by, in most cases, excellent structure. Despite coming from relatively young vines -- Eva Reh-Siddle, who runs the domaine, says they were planted in 1997 -- this wine from Domaine Bertagna fits that overall description nicely. Truly a wine from Chambolle, it has charm combined with a subtle tarriness and fine, firm tannins. Beautifully balanced, there’s not a trace of over ripeness or heaviness. Its grandeur and elegance become even more apparent in its long finish. I’d cellar it for another decade.
94 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015

Joseph Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) Premier Cru Amoureuses 2003 ($207): Oh, my gosh, Burgundy this good is rare. The Amoureuses vineyard is rated Premier Cru, but it's as good if not better than most Grand Cru Burgundies, vintage after vintage. This is rich, luscious, velvety and complex, with great length on the palate. This is drinking so beautifully now that it's hard to imagine it will improve, but it will. Only 50 cases come to the U.S. 96 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Domaine Joseph Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) Les Amoureuses 2004 ($130, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The venerable Burgundy firm, Joseph Drouhin, makes a number of good Burgundies, but its premier cru, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses (which means 'the lovers'), is my clear favorite. All finesse and elegance, with the captivating aromas of red fruits and a touch of woodsiness, the memory of Les Amoureuses will stay with you long after dinner. And wiser to go with this premier cru rather than the Grand Cru, le Musigny, which is priced in the $1,000 range. No sense spending all of the boss' money at one dinner! 95 Ed McCarthy Feb 5, 2008

Bruno Clair, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) Les Veroilles 2005 ($60, Vineyard Brands): Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this wine has all the style and class of one. The aromatics predict a lovely wine and in this case, the nose does not lie. Supple silky tannins surround a lush mixture of ripe black and red fruit flavors. Again, in Burgundy one must always remember the producer, not the pedigree of the vineyard. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2007

Domaine Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) “Les Cras” 2017 ($95, Taub Family Selections):

Similar to many vineyards in Burgundy, Les Cras isn’t contained within a single appellation. Part of this vineyard is classified as Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru, while another part is only entitled to a village Chambolle-Musigny appellation. The portion of Les Cras that carries the village appellation lies above the better situated — middle of the slope — portion that is classified as 1er Cru. This wine, which carries the village appellation, is more refined and riveting than many producers’ 1er Cru bottlings because Domaine Antonin Guyon is such a talented producer. Chambolle-Musigny, similar to Gevrey-Chambertin, has a great reputation, which explains why the prices for even village wines are high. Guyon’s is a delightful expression of Chambolle-Musigny, displaying a velvety texture surrounding a core of bright mineral-infused fruitiness. It’s full of charm and grace. It’s another 2017 that perfect for current drinking.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2020

Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($69, Kobrand): Wines from Chambolle-Musigny, one of the top villages in the Côte de Nuits, are some of the most sought after in Burgundy, which explains why even a village wine, such as this one, commands a healthy price. Jadot’s 2012 is a great example and demonstrates why wines from that village are so popular. Very plush and concentrated, it delivers a minerality for which the Côte de Nuits is known. But its wonderfully silky texture imparts a near weightlessness and sets it apart. This is a great introduction for consumers who want to see for themselves about the seductiveness of Chambolle-Musigny.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2015

Girardin, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($52, Vineyard Brands): Girardin makes little or no wine from premier cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, opting to buy grapes from growers who own plots classified simply as Chambolle-Musigny, presumably because he feels they deliver better value. I hate to classify a $50 wine as a 'value wine,' but considering Burgundy, especially in the 2005 vintage, it probably is. The fleshy silkiness, the hallmark of Chambolle-Musigny, is combined with ripe forward fruitiness and a touch of Burgundian earthiness. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2007

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) "Les Echezeaux" Vielle Vigne 2003 ($53, Elite Wines Imports): Because 2003 was such a warm year this wine is much fruitier than one usually expects Chambolle-Musigny to be. Notes of ultra-ripe blackberries and the wine's substantial body will come as a surprise to tasters who don't take the peculiarities of this particular vintage into consideration, but for all its heft this Chambolle-Musigny still manages to impart elegance and complexity. 88 Marguerite Thomas Aug 1, 2006

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru (Cote de Nuits, Burgundy) 2003 ($70, Dreyfus Ashby): Chambolle-Musigny is the 'Volnay' of the Côte de Nuits, with elegance and finesse as its calling card rather than power. Drouhin's 2003 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, a blend from several premier cru vineyards owned by the firm, has dark berry aromas and fruits and is velvety and well-balanced. It is approachable now, but should be even better in about two years. 91 Ed McCarthy Jan 24, 2006

Maison Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Baudes 2011 ($100, Kobrand):

The seductive combination of suaveness and depth is what accounts for the popularity, and hence, price of wines from Chambolle-Musigny. Jadot’s 2011 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes has all the mineraly underpinning and glossy patina you’d expect from a premier cru from this esteemed village. Despite its depth, it has a paradoxical delicacy that adds to its appeal. Similar to Jadot’s premier crus from Savigny-lès-Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses, this one from Chambolle-Musigny is remarkably forward and approachable. Unlike the more prized wines from the 2009 and 2010 vintage, this 2011 Chambolle is attractive because it does not require long term cellaring.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014

Louis Jadot, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($100, Kobrand): Also from purchased grapes, this Charmes Chambertin attests to the validity of the appellation contrôllée system. It has more of everything--complexity, length, and power--than the Petite Chapelle. 94 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2018 ($80, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

This 2018 Clos du Château de la Maltroye, a monopole of the Château de la Maltroye, is one of the best red wines from Chassagne-Montrachet I’ve ever had. It’s the epitome of power and grace. Savory elements complement gorgeous dark fruity ones. It has plenty of structure and vivacity, something not all wines have in 2018, but not a trace of aggressiveness in the tannins. It has great finesse, not a character I often find in the reds of Chassagne. It’s hard to resist its charms now, but its balance and my experience with the producer suggests that you will be amply rewarded by cellaring it for a decade.
96 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021

Shaps & Roucher-Sarrazin, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($55, The Country Vintner): Michael Shaps is one of very few winemakers working on both sides of the Atlantic. Although I've admired his exceptional efforts from fruit grown in Virginia for more than five years, I've just recently had a first opportunity to taste through some of his red and white Burgundies. This Chassagne is very tastefully rendered, combining lovely fruit notes of golden apple and ripe pear with just the right touch of oak for spice and smoke. A notably mineral finish and a faintly nutty backnote lend additional interest, and the whole package is nicely balanced and very appealing. 88 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Domaine Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Rouge 2006 ($28, Louis Latour Inc.): Although the grand and premier cru vineyards of Chassagne-Montrachet produce three times as much white wine as red, its village wines are more often red than white and, like this one, are often very good values. This charming Pinot Noir-based wine delivers pure bright cherry-like flavors intertwined with a hint of leafiness. It has the charming, delicate quality of good red Burgundy and is perfect for drinking now. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 6, 2009

Henri Prudhon & Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) "les Chambres" 2001 ($27, Neal Rosenthal): Chassagne-Montrachet is known for its sublime grand cru and premier cru white Burgundies. Its reds tend to be rather ungainly (the Brits would call them "four-square"). This 2001 is chunky and a bit chewy. With air, it started to fade. And yet its red fruit flavors were not unattractive. 86 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2006 ($75, Louis Latour Inc.): Wines from Les Caillerets, one of Chassagne-Montrachet's most refined 1er cru, often have more finesse than most of the wines from that village, which tend to be a bit earthier. Latour's fits that mold, delivering elegance more associated with Puligny- than Chassagne-Montrachet. Still, the characteristic earthiness is apparent and the combination along with bracing acidity makes this wine especially attractive. This sophisticated wine blossoms in the glass and will benefit from several years in the cellar. 91 Michael Apstein Sep 16, 2008

Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2010 ($75, Jeanne Marie de Champs): This vineyard surrounds the Château de la Maltroye and is owned solely by them, somewhat of a rarity in Burgundy since most vineyards have been divided and subdivided among multiple owners over the centuries. Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of red wine from Chassagne-Montrachet because they can be green and rustic. But this one is spectacular. Jean-Pierre Cournut, the owner of Château de la Maltroye, notes that his Clos du Château “needs two more years that my other reds before it settles down.” Burly and broad and this stage, it shows signs of sophistication and finesse in its incredibly long finish. Fine tannins support its wild strawberry-like fruitiness and balancing acidity imparts a wonderful freshness. This is a red Chassagne that I would put in my cellar. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012

Potel Aviron, Chenas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($17, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): This traditionally vinified (i.e., no carbonic maceration) Beaujolais is among the softer, broader offerings from Stéphane Aviron in 2010, showing a subtle floral aroma that leads into delicious flavors of plums and dark cherries. There’s enough grip in the finish to enable this to work very nicely with veal or roast duck.
89 Michael Franz Jun 11, 2013

Domaine Piron et Lafont, Chenas (Beaujolais, France) Quartz 2006 ($18, Michael Skurnick): Chenas is one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais whose wines are distinctive and are allowed to carry the village name—instead of the more generic Beaujolais-Villages—on the label. The name, Quartz, comes from a vein of quartz running through the vineyard and is responsible for the wine’s earthy minerality, which acts as a lovely complement to its red cherry fruit-like flavors. There’s more substance here than with a Beaujolais-Villages, and fine tannins reinforce the message that this is serious wine. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010

Potel-Aviron, Chénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($19, Frederick Wildman): I love the range of Potel-Aviron’s 2009 Beaujolais. They are ripe and precise across the board. This Chénas, perhaps the least well-known Beaujolais cru, has plenty of verve to balance the explosive fruit. Plumy undertones and a hint of earthiness come together beautifully. Showing well now, it actually should develop more complexity with another couple of years in the bottle. It delivers far more than the price tag suggests. 92 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012

Stéphane Aviron, Chénas (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($22, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd):

Stéphane Aviron makes wines from many of the crus of Beaujolais, the ten villages that have the potential to produce distinctive wines that stand apart from those labeled Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages. (Indeed, wines from these villages rarely put Beaujolais on the label.) One of the things I love about his wines is their “transparency,” which is to say, the possibility of “seeing through” the grape variety he uses to the place where he grows them. Take this Chénas, the smallest of the 10 crus, for example. Characteristic of the wines from that village, it’s meaty and bold with an ever so slightly charming rustic texture. It’s an excellent choice for a hearty slow-simmered stew.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2018

Georges Duboeuf, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, France) 'Flower Label' 2009 ($13, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.): Chiroubles is considered the most feminine of the crus. This 2009 from Duboeuf has a deep purple-ruby color, medium bouquet of ripe dark fruits with a subtle floral back note. The flavors are textured and elegant with bracing acidity, refined tannins and impressive length through the finish. 91 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Domaine Coquelet, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2007 ($20, Louis Dressner Selections): Damien Coquelet, only 20 years old, comes from a family--Descombes--whose name is synonymous with superb Beaujolais. This Chiroubles could be the poster child for the wines of that village. Very fragrant, with a delicate--almost lacey--minerality, it is not grapey at all. You can almost taste the granite subsoil for which the region is famous. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Domaine Aurelie Berthod, Chorey les Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($40): The vast majority of the vineyards of the Côte d’Or — and certainly all the great ones — lie on a slope to the west of the D976, (formerly the RN76), the major north-south highway than runs from Marsannay in the north to Maranges in the south. The bulk of the vineyards of Chorey les

Beaune lie on the wrong side of the D976, where the land is flat. Chorey les Beaune is only one of three village appellations that lacks any premier cru vineyards (the other two are St. Romain and Marsannay). Despite its geographically-challenged position, at least within the Côte d’Or, consumers should search out its wines because from good producers, such as Domaine Aurelie Berthod, enjoyment abounds. The warmth of the vintage aided ripeness in less prestigious areas, such as Chorey les Beaune. The restrained and clearly talented hand of Aurelie Berthod infused a charming and bright cherry-like aspect surrounded by fine tannins.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2022

Maison Drouhin, Chorey lès Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($25, Dreyfus Ashby): Wines from Chorey les Beaune, the only village in the Côte d'Or without a premier cru vineyard, offer great value when they are crafted by a talented producer like Drouhin. With pure fresh red fruit flavors, this one is uncomplicated and charming now. An excellent buy. 86 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Catherine et Claude Marechal, Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($28, Louis-Dressner Selections): Concentrated aromas and flavors of fresh red fruits and black berries. Solid, yet smooth and supple village-level Burgundy, a real mouthful. Totally delicious right now; well-balanced, well-made wine. 90 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($21, Dreyfus, Ashby): I've always loved the pure, forward cherry fruit of Burgundies from this village. The Drouhin 2004 Chorey-les-Beaune is just a delight to drink now. Not complex, but totally delicious. Who says Burgundies have to be expensive? 90 Ed McCarthy Oct 10, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-Les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($22, Dreyfus, Ashby): The little-known Chorey-Les-Beaune, one of smaller villages in the northern part of the Côte-de-Beaune, tends to produce delicately flavored Burgundies which are perfect as aperitif wines. Drouhin's 2003, with 12.5% alcohol, is a perfect charmer, light-bodied and supple, with aromas and flavors of red berries and cherries. A great value! 89 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($28, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.): Chorey-les-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a sleeper location for value packed red Burgundy, such as this one. Lying just off the main Dijon Beaune road, Chorey, as it’s sometimes called, is off most everybody’s radar screen. With this 2012, Drouhin, one of the Burgundy’s top producers, has made a lacey fragrant wine whose savory notes make it good choice for roast chicken or salmon tonight. Light on its feet -- this is not an opulent New World Pinot Noir -- it is surprisingly full of flavor and has the hallmark Drouhin elegance.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2015

Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-les-Beaune (Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($25): The '09 is one of the friendliest Chorey's I've tasted from Drouhin. This wine is typically among the lightest and most delicate reds in the Drouhin portfolio, with a tendency to finish on the tart side. The '09, on the other hand, is warm, generous and fruity without losing the firm underpinnings that separate Burgundy from other Pinot Noirs. This is an '09 you can enjoy now at a modest price while waiting for the more complex reds of the vintage to mature. 87 Robert Whitley Sep 20, 2011

Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($24, Dreyfus Ashby): Young and lean, this vintage of Drouhin Chorey-les-Beaune has every right to improve as it gains flesh and suppleness with age. At this stage its most endearing quality is a fresh, red-fruited bouquet. There are notes of forest floor and spice as well, and good balance between fruit and acid, though slightly hard tannins mute the fruit and abbreviate the finish. Overall, however, a very good "village" Burgundy that is well worth the modest price. 85 Robert Whitley Aug 19, 2008

Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-les–Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

A very tasty red Burgundy from a lesser appellation but a great vintage, this is the sort of wine that could restore your faith in Burgundy's ability to turn out solid, stylish Pinot at a reasonable price. Simple but still stylish, it features classic dark cherry and wild strawberry fruit notes, along with light tannins and just the faintest touch of smoky oak. 85 Michael Franz Jun 26, 2007

Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) Pièce du Chapitre 2009 ($42): None of the 375 acres of vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune (lès means near), are classified as premier cru because they lie on the flat land as opposed to the better situated sites on the slope. Nonetheless, wines from Chorey-lès-Beaune can be a terrific value, especially when they are from a top-notch producer, such as Tollot-Beaut. Although the 2009 Pièce du Chapitre is not the current release, it is still widely available on the retail market. Beautifully concentrated, befitting the 2009 vintage, Tollot-Beaut’s Chorey has an engaging hint of earthiness and great vibrancy. The flavors expand as it sits in the glass. Seductive now in part because of a glossy texture, it will continue to evolve, so there’s no rush. Given the direction of Burgundy prices, Tollot-Beaut’s Chorey-lès-Beaune is a bargain for what it delivers.
92 Michael Apstein May 13, 2014

Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($29, Dreyfus, Ashby, & Co.):

This is a lush, polished, fruit-driven Pinot Noir that offers flavors of ripe cherries, blackberries, and poached plums accented by hints of cedar. It glides gracefully across the palate and offers refined tannins and lively acidity to frame the generous fruit. An inimitable wave of freshness gives it lift. This is poised to evolve beautifully over the coming years.
91 Miranda Franco Dec 21, 2021

Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill):

Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably -- for Burgundy -- priced wines. The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny. Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. Its polished mild tannins make it an ideal choice for a sautéed veal chop tonight.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 25, 2014

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($26, Dreyfus Ashby):

The solution to finding affordable Burgundy in the era of the region’s explosive popularity -- and rising prices -- is embracing village wines from top producers in great years, such as this one. The 2015 red Burgundies are spectacular. The perfect weather meant that wines from less prestigious appellations did especially well. Put that together with one of Burgundy’s top producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, and you have an excellent -- and well-priced -- Burgundy. It combines red fruit note and a captivating herbal/earthy essence, which is what makes red Burgundy so distinctive. Quite long and refined, it is a remarkable village wine. Beautiful and satisfying to drink now, with turkey, for example, it’s balance and Drouhin’s talents predict it will evolve nicely over the next five years, so there no reason not to buy a case and impress your guests next Thanksgiving. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2017

Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($26, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Less well-known towns just outside of Beaune in the heart of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, such as Savigny- or Chorey-lès-Beaune (lès means near), offer consumers an excellent opportunity to savor the charms of Burgundy without taking out a second mortgage. A step-up from Drouhin’s very good and well-priced Bourgogne Rouge (reviewed previously), their Chorey-lès-Beaune has a surprising complexity for a “lesser” village wine, with alluring delicate earthy notes to complement the bright juicy red fruit-like flavors. Mild, supple tannins lend support without blunting its charm. Ready to drink now, another year or two in the cellar will likely bring out even more layers of enjoyment, so there’s no rush. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 8, 2009

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This stylish wine, from a village just north of Beaune, delivers quintessential Burgundian character at a reasonable-for Burgundy-price. Remarkably long, with the hint of earthiness that screams 'Burgundy,' it reminds us that good producers, such as Drouhin, make satisfying wines even in what the French call, 'difficult years.' 88 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

Mommessin, Clos de Tart (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($485, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Domaines & Saveurs Collection): Clos de Tart is one of the most under rated grand crus of the Côte de Nuits. Located in Morey St. Denis and owned entirely by the Mommessin family, it has been producing sensational wine since Sylvain Pitiot, who is obsessed with quality, took over as cellar master in 1996.

(There is no longer any connection between the Mommessin family and the négociant firm of the same name, the latter having been sold to Jean-Claude Boisset.) Although the vineyard’s exposure, south-south east, is uniform, Pitiot has at least six different cuvees based substantial differences in the subsoil that he blends for the final wine. The 2009 is simply sensational. Glossy and deep, the slightly bitter cherry notes speak clearly of Morey St. Denis. Signs of oak barrel aging are still apparent in this young wine, but it’s gorgeous balance and plenty of stuffing means all will come together seamlessly. It’s not overwhelming power that impresses, but rather waves of flavor without a trace of heaviness or weight. Pitiot was so pleased with the quality of the grapes in 2009 that he made no La Forge de Tart, their second wine. The ‘09 Clos de Tart is the epitome of great Burgundy. Those with deep pockets should buy it. The rest of us can just dream.
97 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2012

Domaine Lamarche, Clos de Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($170, Jeanne-Marie des Champs Selection):
The producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, but especially
when buying wine labeled Clos de Vougeot. The quality of the wines

coming from this famed grand cru varies enormously because the vineyard is large and is divided among more than 60 owners. Some, like Lamarche, make wonderfully expressive wines. Others do not. But all will be expensive. Lamarche’s 2010, tightly wound at this stage, has all the hallmarks of a great Clos de Vougeot with a haunting combination of floral elements and deeply concentrated minerality. Beautifully balanced, it needs a decade for it to unwind and its stature to show. No doubt about it--Lamarche’s deserves the grand cru moniker. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Domaine Jacques Prieur, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($305, Frederick Wildman and Sons):

Given the horrendous weather during the 2016 growing season in Burgundy, it’s amazing that growers made any wine at all. Sadly, some did not since entire vineyards were wiped out by hail. Many producers had written off vintage, prematurely, as it turned out. One thing is clear, the horrible weather resulted in very low yields, which, of course, translates into high prices. The other thing about the 2016 vintage that is clear is that it lacks the consistency of 2015. What’s also clear is that many superb wines, such as Prieur’s Clos Vougeot, were made. Clos Vougeot, one of Burgundy’s grandest Grand Cru vineyards, can also be a great source of disappointing wines. Some parts of this large vineyard likely do not deserve Grand Cru status. There are many producers of Clos Vougeot, some of whom figure that the name alone will sell the wine and therefore cut corners. But Clos Vougeot can also be one of the grandest Burgundies. Prieur’s fits that latter category. Explosive, it weaves minerality and alluring floral elements into a near magical combination that lingers on the palate, seemingly forever. Waves of flavor dance on the palate. It delivers what I consider to be the quintessential nature of Burgundy -- flavor without weight. The tannins are fine and barely noticeable they are so well integrated, but they lend perfect support. The price is another reason to play the lottery.
96 Michael Apstein Jul 17, 2018

Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($160): Although a famous Grand Cru, Clos Vougeot is the source of highly variable wines because of the vast number of growers who own vines in this

famed vineyard. Indeed, the Burgundy mantra of producer, producer, producer is doubly important here because the wines are never inexpensive. Bouchard’s, a vigorous young wine, conveys a nearly overwhelming combination of minerals, fruit and floral notes. An initial firmness gives way to reveal a fabulous combination of floral notes and massive minerality. Despite its power, it has finesse and grace. Bouchard’s 2010 Clos Vougeot is truly Grand Cru. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2012

Maison Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Louis Jadot” 2012 ($159, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): At first impression, this wine announces its Grand Cru origin. And it keeps sending this signal as you continue to taste it. Part of its grandeur, no doubt, comes from its being an estate wine. (Domaine Louis Jadot in the box at the base of the label means that the grapes come from their portion of the Clos Vougeot vineyard.) But that doesn’t explain it entirely, because Jadot has owned a portion of Clos Vougeot for decades, and I don’t remember the wine ever being so elegant and graceful when young. Usually, Jadot’s Clos Vougeot takes years to develop the kind of finesse the 2012 is currently exhibiting because it has a considerable tannic structure of youth. That’s not to say that the 2012 lacks structure. Hardly. The firm and polished tannins are present, lending support without astringency and allowing the magnificent combination of floral and mineraly elements to shine. This wine explodes and expands on the palate seemingly out of nowhere because it’s truly flavor without weight. Despite its captivating allure now, I’d find a place in the cellar where it can remain undisturbed for a decade
95 Michael Apstein Aug 4, 2015

Liger Belair, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($140): The promise of this young wine is most apparent in its nose and the extraordinary finish. Prominent aromas of oak are balanced by plenty of fruit and the combination is hard to resist. Tightly wound at this early stage of its life, strawberry and other red fruit-like flavors sneak out from the tannins and oak. Its silky texture is commensurate with its grand cru status. 94 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2007

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton (Burgundy, France) Château Corton Grancey 2015 ($132, Louis Latour USA):

Although Latour owns portions of Romanée St. Vivant and Chambertin, Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, I consider this Grand Cru from the Côte de Beaune to be their flagship red wine. Latour has always felt that blending wines from different Grand Cru parcels on the Corton hill, a practice the Domaine de la Romanée Conti has embraced now that they have vineyards in Corton, produces the most compete expression of Corton. A blend of wines from their holdings in Corton-Perrières, Corton-Clos du Roi, Corton-Grèves and Corton-Bressandes vineyards, in varying proportions depending on the vintage, comprises their Château Corton Grancey. The 2015 is one of -- if not the -- finest they have ever produced. Paradoxically, it is both explosive and firm. A lush core of ripe fruit offsets and perfectly balances the dense minerality for which Corton is known. The iron-like backbone and brilliant acidity amplifies the wine’s inherent ripeness and charms. Long and luxurious, it’s a wine for the cellar. Don’t be deceived that because it’s from the Côte de Beaune that it will mature quickly. The 2015 Corton Grancey will benefit from another decade or two of cellaring. If you love Burgundy, this one needs to be in your cellar. 98 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2017

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton (Burgundy, France) Château Corton Grancey 2012 ($150, Louis Latour USA):

With their 67+ acres of Grand Cru vineyards, Louis Latour owns more of those precious plots than anyone else in Burgundy. They are best known for their stellar wines from the Grand Cru vineyard of Corton -- both red and white. Their flagship red, Corton Grancey, is a blend of wine made from grapes grown in four Grand Cru plots -- Corton Bressandes, Corton Perrières, Corton Clos du Roi and Corton Grèves -- located on the hill of Corton. Always a superb wine, their 2012 Corton Grancey is outstanding. Concentrated and dense without being overblown, it delivers both ripe and savory elements. The polished tannins lend support and a luxurious texture. Very long, it has the requisite balance to develop gracefully over the next two decades.
96 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2014

Domaine Antonin Guyon, Corton (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2011 ($112, L’Esprit du Vin):

Dominique Guyon, who runs the family estate founded by his grandfather, uses the traditional 18th century spelling, Clos du Roy, instead of the more common Clos du Roi. Regardless of the spelling, royalty is in the bottle. The Clos du Roi is arguably the finest site in Corton for red -- the king does get first choice -- and Guyon has done it justice in 2011. There’s a bit of everything going here -- a core of ripe fruit that spreads over the palate, firm tannins, and an extraordinary elegance that belies its underlying power. A haunting finish reinforces my definition of great red Burgundy -- flavor without weight. This is a great young red that needs at least a decade in the cellar.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton (Burgundy, France) Grancey 2014 ($117, Louis Latour USA):

Latour’s Corton Grancey, a Grand Cru and their flagship wine, is a blend of four Grand Cru vineyards on the hill of Corton: Corton-Perrieres, Corton-Bressandes, Corton-Clos du Roi, and Corton-Grèves. The proportion each vineyard contributes to the finished wine varies vintage to vintage. What doesn’t vary is the quality of the wine. Firm and tightly wound at this stage as expected for a Grand Cru, fine tannins surround a core of red fruit. Befitting a young wine, it unfolds slowly in the glass with telltale herbal and an almost iron-tinged character. Though the 2014 reds risk being overshadowed by the ripeness and exuberance of 2015s, don’t let that deter you from buying this 2014. The 2014 Corton Grancey sings -- give it a decade so you can hear all the notes.
95 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2017

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($95, Louis Latour USA): In addition to using some fruit from their holdings in Clos du Roi vineyard, Latour also bottles a wine made exclusively from grapes grown there. Wines from Corton Clos du Roi often have a plushness and luxurious texture -- showing it’s good to be the King -- that make them especially attractive. Latour’s 2014 Corton Clos du Roi displays that plush, luxurious quality and at this stage is a bit fleshier than the Grancey. Impeccably balanced, it too should develop magnificently over the next decade. While I’m sure Latour’s 2015 Cortons will be superb, don’t overlook this one and their Grancey from 2014.
94 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2017

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Corton Grancey” 2019 ($190, Louis Latour, USA):

Louis Latour is King of the Hill of Corton because of the quality of the wines that emanate from their extensive holdings there. Corton Grancey, a blend from five distinct Grand Cru climats of Corton — Bressandes, Perrières, Clos du Roi, Grèves, and Chaumes — is their top red wine from the Côte de Beaune. The blend varies depending on the vintage, but it’s always terrific. The 2019 is exceptionally noteworthy, delivering a bit of everything and not too much of anything. It’s explosive, yet firm and iron tinged. It has both power and finesse. Louis Fabrice Latour remarked that they were “obsessed with freshness” with their 2019s after the torrid weather of the 2018 vintage. The wonderful energy of this Corton Grancey is testimony to that obsession. Corton-lovers, put this one in the cellar for a decade.
97 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2022

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020 ($375):

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers. They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009. Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.” The ripe 2020 vintage is especially well-suited to an otherwise austere site, like Corton-Perrières because the warmth of the vintage adds a luxurious fleshiness to the bones of this wine. It leads with an explosive mineral and dark fruit-infused aromatics that follow on the palate. Fleshy and firm, it has unusual energy and vivacity given the warmth of the vintage. This long and graceful Corton will reward decades of cellaring, but it is quite captivating right now.
96 Michael Apstein Mar 7, 2023

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton Grancey 1999 ($70, Louis Latour, Inc): Corton Grancey is Latour's flagship red wine made from their grapes grown in various Grand Cru vineyards on the Corton hill. The 1999 Corton Grancey is a stunning wine. Moreover, at seven years of age, it is delicious now. Lovely secondary earthy Burgundian flavors overlay the pure, ripe Corton fruit character. It's well deserved Grand Cru status lies with its length and finesse as opposed to sheer power. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006

Maison Ambroise, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Rognet 2009 ($121, Robert Kacher Selection): Maison Ambroise is a name you can trust in Burgundy. Their wines, from

the lowliest appellation to the prestigious Grand Cru, such as this one, reflect the vintage and place beautifully. This gorgeous Corton Rognet is well structured with a solid core of dark minerality and luxurious, almost sweet, red and black fruit flavors. A healthy dose of earthy and smokey notes shows its savory side. A serious wine, it has the requisite charm expected of red Burgundy. It’s wonderfully expressive now, but its beautiful structure and impeccable balance suggests it’s built for the long haul. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2012

Maison Faiveley, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Corton Faiveley 2005 ($216, Wilson Daniels): Faiveley owns about 7.5 acres of the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Corton, near the summit of the Corton hill just below the protective shield of trees. It's almost always their best wine and at tastings is invariably served after the more powerful ones from the Côte de Nuits. The 2005 is a fabulous combination of dense ripe red and black fruit flavors combined with an extraordinary silkiness and polish. It's a winning combination. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2007

Hospices de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Charlotte Dumay” 2005 ($135, Brown Forman): All wines from the Hospices de Beaune are made by the Hospices' winemaker and then sold to a firm, such as Michel Picard in this case, which finishes the aging, known as élevage. (The name of the firm performing the élevage appears at the bottom of the label). With a captivating floral nose, this shows the pure--almost sweet--fruit characteristic of great reds from Corton, fine tannins, and great length all come together in this elegant and stylish wine. It deserves its Grand Cru status--not because of sheer power--but because of finesse and complexity. 93. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008

Vincent Girardin, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Renardes 2005 ($88, Vineyard Brands): Girardin's style favors the forward fruity side of Burgundy rather than the earthy leafy side. Impressive, almost flamboyant aromas, precede the packed, ripe flavors--from fruit, not oak--that are the predominant features of this silky wine. Nicely balanced, it shows the ripeness of the vintage without going overboard. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2007

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) "Grancey" 2006 ($120, Louis Latour Inc.): Corton, the only grand cru vineyard for red wine in the Cote de Beaune, is large and produces wines of variable quality. Latour, the largest owner of the vineyard, makes one of the best. Corton Grancey, a proprietary--not a plot--name, is a blend of wine from Latour's best grand cru plots within the Corton vineyard. It has a core of ripe, almost sweet, red fruit that is immediately captivating. Unusually forward wine for a Corton, it still has a firmness that will take years of cellaring to soften. Even at this stage, there are nuances of leafiness and earthiness that are the hallmark of Burgundy. Not an intense wine--this is not the Cote de Nuits--it has marvelous persistence nonetheless. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2009

Jean-Claude Belland, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Vigne Au Saint 2005 ($72, VOS Selections): Clos de la Vigne au Saint, one of the many Corton Grand Cru, is well- known as a flagship of Maison Louis Latour's reds because they are practically the sole owner of the vineyard and consistently make a marvelous wine from it. 'Practically' is the key word because Jean-Claude Belland owns just over an acre in this vineyard and also produces an exceptional red wine from its grapes. Belland made a sensational wine in 2005. Incredibly pure and long, it has concentrated ripe--almost sweet, but not in a sugary way--fruit notes. Add the silky texture and you have a classic Corton. The tannins are fine and make it surprisingly easy to drink now. But resist the temptation. This wine will evolve beautifully. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008

Joseph Drouhin, Cote de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($34, Dreyfus Ashby): Though light in body, especially for this vintage, the Drouhin Cote de Beaune delivers intense strawberry aroma on the nose, and that remains consistent on the palate. This wine is lovely, delicate and well balanced, and shows a floral note of violets and a savory note of earthy mushrooms. It is so approachable now I could easily recommend it for near-term consumption, but history and my memory tell me it will be even better in five to seven years. 90 Robert Whitley Nov 1, 2011

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($34, Dreyfus-Ashby):

Côte de Beaune is an unusual appellation, not to be confused (though it often is) with Côte de Beaune-Villages or simply Beaune. It is comprised of a few vineyards located above Beaune -- but not in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune -- on the Montagne de Beaune. Despite its obscurity, it’s an important appellation for Drouhin, which means it’s worth remembering. Their Côte de Beaune is consistently excellent because it contains a substantial amount of declassified wine from their famed 1er cru Clos des Mouches vineyard and their other vineyards in Beaune. The 2011 is more concentrated and has slightly darker -- more black than red fruit -- than the Chorey-lès-Beaune. The structure is a bit more apparent at this stage, but there’s no hiding the Drouhin charm and elegance. It’s an excellent buy.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2013

Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($34, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): There’s been lots of buzz about the open deliciousness of red Burgundies from the 2009 vintage, and this is certainly a convincing case in point. It is light- to medium-bodied but surprisingly generous in flavor for a wine at the lower end of the Burgundy price ladder, and yet the generous flavors were not purchased at the price of delicacy, which is certainly in evidence. Notes of red and black cherries are accented with just a little smoke and spice. This will need a few years in bottle to approach the complexity that it will ultimately achieve in about another five years, but the texture is already very inviting. 90 Michael Franz Jun 28, 2011

Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($28, Dreyfus, Ashby): Drouhin's 2003 Côte de Beaune is a bit weightier, richer, and rounder than the delicate Chorey-Les-Beaune, but with the same delicious red fruit aromas and flavors. It would be a fine complement for burgers, tuna, or salmon. 89 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Maison Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($25, Dreyfus Ashby): The Côte de Beaune appellation, less well known in the US than Côte de Beaune Villages, ranks between Beaune and the Beaune 1er Cru in stature, acording to Véronique Drouhin. Primarily made from wines from the young vines of Drouhin's flagship property, Beaune Clos des Mouches, it has forward, pure ripe fruit flavors, little tannin, and good acid. It is a fine example of Beaune--as good as many producers' Beaune 1er Cru--and represents an excellent value. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Domaine Michel Lafarge, Côte de Beaune Villages (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($34, Becky Wasserman Selection): Lafarge, a world-renowned producer of Volnay, makes other wines, albeit in small quantities. They are so good they are worth the search, especially in the case of this Côte de Beaune Villages, which is reasonably priced, at least for Burgundy and Lafarge. A silky texture allows the pure fruit flavors and subtle earthy notes to shine. It floats across the palate. Not a packed and ripe Pinot Noir-based wine you’d expect from the New World, but rather the perfect expression of the delicacy and persistence that is Burgundy. Tasted over three nights, it got better and better with more complexity emerging, which suggests to me that even this wine from a “lesser” appellation, as enjoyable as it is now, will reward a few years of cellaring. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2012

Louis Jadot, Cote de Beaune-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($20, kobrand): Penetrating aromas of spice and red fruits, and then surprisingly soft in the mouth, except for its firm oak tannins. Quite delicious, but showing its 13 percent alcohol. 87 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Potel-Aviron, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($18, Frederick Wildman): The Côte de Brouilly, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais, is known for stylish wines. And this is one of them. Firm, but not hard, a classy minerality explodes on the palate. This is serious stuff. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2012

Potel Aviron, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($17, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): This wine is a bit reticent for the moment in aromatic terms, but it delivers excellent fruit on the palate, recalling both red and black fruits. Pleasantly tart but still generous, with a subtle sweetness, this is a detailed, sharply focused wine that will improve for another five years.
89 Michael Franz Jun 11, 2013

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Cote de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Grands-Echezeaux 2003 ($200, Dreyfus Ashby): Grands-Echezeaux is one of the great Grand Crus on the Côte de Nuits, noted for powerful, long-lasting Burgundies. Drouhin's 2003 Grands-Echezeaux, made from old vines, is true to form: it combines density and power with elegance and finesse. It is more open than Drouhin's Griotte-Chambertin, and should be even better in five or six years. 92 Ed McCarthy Jan 24, 2006

Shaps & Roucher-Sarrazin, Cote de Nuits Villages (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($38, The Country Vintner): This appellation is widely understood to be a minefield, producing a great many bottlings that simply lack adequate depth of fruit. Knowing the producer is key, and this is a producer to remember. The wine shows a degree of depth and ripeness that is a bit surprising even in the context of this famously ripe vintage, and yet it also shows appropriate restraint and symmetry. Medium-bodied and nicely accented with a very subtle touch of wood, it is a promising partner for moderately robust foods like roasted chicken. 88 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Domaine Jean Féry, Côte de Nuits-Villages (Burgundy, France) Clos de Magny 2020 ($40, Jeanne Marie Selection):

In the ongoing search for more affordable red Burgundy, consumers must look to less familiar appellations, such as this one, Côte de Nuits-Villages, which encompasses vines in five different villages in the Côte de Nuits, but not the well-known ones. Going from north to south, they are Fixin, Brochon, Prémeaux-Prissy, Comblanchien, and Corgoloin, the southernmost bordering the Côte de Beaune. Domaine Jean Féry et Files, a family domaine of about 34 acres all of which are certified as organic, owns vineyards throughout the Côte d’Or. Fréy’s Le Clos de Magny, located in Corgoloin, is well-positioned on the slope. Their 2020 is simply stunning. It conveys a seamless combination of fruit and herbal flavors that dance on the palate. Refined tannins contribute to its silky seductive texture. Its freshness and vivacity, which could have been difficult to achieve in such a warm year, is remarkable. This is my ideal of Burgundy — flavor without weight.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2022

Maison Roche de Bellene, Coteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) “Bellenos” Cuvée Rouge 2016 ($19, Loosen Brothers):

The fruit for this charming wine was grown on the sunny slopes of a new French appellation: Coteaux Bourguignons (which translates roughly as “Hillsides of Burgundy”). This red blend, which includes Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir, shows off fully ripened fruit. Don’t overthink “Bellenos”: It is what the French call “un vin de plaisir,” a wine designed to be simply enjoyed rather than over-analyzed. But that description is by no means meant to minimize the enjoyment this tasty, fruity wine offers.
90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 11, 2020

Maison Roche de Bellene, Coteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) "Bellenos" Cuvée Rouge 2016 ($15, Loosen Bros. USA):

Created in 2011 and replacing the very down-market sounding appellation, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, Coteaux Bourguignons encompasses all vineyards from around Chablis in the north to Beaujolais in the south. For reds, the allowable grapes include Pinot Noir, Gamay, and César, a lesser-known grape grown around the Chablis area. Nicolas Potel, an experienced and well-respected winemaker, is in charge at Maison Roche de Bellene. Fruity -- Gamay speaking here -- yet nicely structured, this marvelously priced wine delivers more than the price suggests. Mild tannins mean it takes a chill effortlessly, a definite plus here on the East Coast. This mid-weight red would also enhance a take-out roast chicken.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2018

Dominique Piron, Coteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($14, Massanois Imports): This is a delicious, juicy red that is a wonderful companion for a wide range of foods. Dominique Piron is a noted producer of Beaujolais and, while not specifically from a Beaujolais appellation, this wine reflects a Beaujolais style. Coteaux Bourguignons is a new name for the former Bourgogne Grande Ordinaire appellation. Piron’s 2012 has aromas of red cherry, raspberry, lilac and nutmeg spice. The flavors are bright and lively, with the raspberry and cherry fruit enhanced by hints of strawberry and spice. It is low in tannin, gulpable in style and pairs well with anything from charcuterie to fried chicken, pasta salads, grilled salmon and beyond. Drink it while it’s young. Sold in a full liter bottle.
88 Wayne Belding Feb 10, 2015

Dominique Piron, Coteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($12):

Coteaux Bourguignons, a relatively new appellation in Burgundy, has few rules, allowing growers broad latitude. They can blend Burgundy’s Pinot Noir and Beaujolais’s Gamay, along with a couple of obscure varieties, grown anywhere in Burgundy from Chablis in the north to Beaujolais in the south. The quality is, like all Burgundy, very much dependent on the producer. Whatever this light to mid-weight red from Dominique Piron might lack in power, it makes up with charm. An uncomplicated wine, its appeal is immediately apparent and would be a great choice for take-out rotisserie chicken. The absence of tannins means it takes a chill nicely.
87 Michael Apstein Sep 28, 2021

Maison Louis Latour, Côteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir “Les Pierres Dorées” 2017 ($26, Louis Latour, USA):

Côteaux Bourguignons is a relatively new appellation, replacing Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, an appellation I’ve never seen in the U.S., perhaps because a “grand ordinary” wine is hard to sell. Grapes for this appellation can come from anywhere in Burgundy, from Beaujolais in the south to Irancy in the north. Pinot Noir and Gamay are the two chief grapes allowed for red or rosé, though less-well known ones, such as César, are also allowed. From a practical point of view, it allows Beaujolais producers to now label their wines as Côteaux Bourguignons to take advantage of the cachet of Bourgogne. To what extent they will do it remains to be seen. In any case, Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s star producers, is using the appellation for their new project, planting Pinot Noir in Beaujolais. Latour has been making Valmoissine -- a stylish Pinot Noir-based wine outside of Burgundy in the south of France -- for decades. Now, they show it can be done in southern Beaujolais, the part known as Pierres Dorées, named for the golden color of the limestone rocks. The soil there is closer in composition to that found in the Côte d’Or as opposed to the granite that is common in the cru of Beaujolais. Earthy nuances complement juicy flavors in this mid-weight wine. The barest hint of tannic bitterness in the finish is a welcome component. It’s a perfect choice for a simple take-out or oven-roasted chicken.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2019

Sorin-Coquard, Coteaux Bourguignons AOC (Burgundy, France) César “Cuvee Antique” 2019 ($15):

My very first César, and if this is any indication, I hope it’s not my last. It opens with savory aromatic accents, with meaty aromas over black fruit and tarry notes. These same suggestions carry over onto the palate, with marked weight and grip, but are finessed by the pepper that's here. It comes off with a roasted vibe that is very attractive. This is definitely worth trying to locate. The producer advises you to “open 24 hours prior to serving with strong meats” and I concur.
93 Rich Cook Aug 22, 2023

Joseph Drouhin, Côte-de-Beaune Villages (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Soft and supple, with a sexy perfume that combines sweet cherry fruit with

a dusty, earthiness, this is a classy Burgundy that may well develop more complexity with two or three years of cellaring. It’s also a fine value.
88 Paul Lukacs Oct 19, 2011

Domaine de Rochegrès (Bichot), Domaine de Rochegrès (Bichot) (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2018 ($28):

Bichot purchased this 12.5-acre estate in the heart of Moulin-a-Vent, arguably the top Beaujolais cru, in 2014. The grapes come from three lieux-dits within Moulin-a-Vent, La Rochelle, Au Mont, and the young vines from Rochegrès itself. It is ripe, spicy and suave, combining richness, minerality and bright acidity. A triumph.
93 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2020

Mâcon-Villages, Domaine Jean Touzot (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($13, The Country Vintner): Michael Apstein Mar 7, 2012

Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Échézaux (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($425, Wilson-Daniels):

Power without weight is a beautiful thing. This is a potent wine, with strong initial pomegranate that lingers and some gravelly minerality, along with some earthiness on the nose. It's intense yet not at all heavy, which is delightful now and bodes well for a long future.

Domaine Francois Lamarche, Echezeaux (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($110, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): Domaine Lamarche is probably best known for being the sole owner of a small Grand Cru in Vosne-Romanée, La Grand Rue, a vineyard that lies between La Tâche and Romanée-Conti. But the Domaine makes an extraordinary range of other wines, including the Grand Cru, Echezeaux. The producer is always the critical element in selecting Burgundy, but especially so for Echezeaux, a large Grand Cru vineyard (almost 100 acres spread over 11 different sites) with many owners, which will always have a Grand Cru price tag, but not always have Grand Cru quality. There is no question that Lamarche's 2005 is a true Grand Cru. Powerful, yet polished, it offers a plethora of flavors--ripe black fruit, earth, a hint of dried leaves--that emerge with time in the glass. It's length and waves of flavors (rather than sheer intensity) are the hallmarks of a great wine. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Maison Nicolas Potel, Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($157, Frederick Wildman):

In Burgundy, it's rare to have a consistently great vintage for reds, such as 2005, or a poor one, such as 1992. In most years, there's lots of variability. There were even duds in 2005 and some excellent 1992 reds. The 2007 reds exemplify Burgundy's normal variability. Amidst this variability, Potel's Échézeaux is a standout. It's a harmonious package of ripe red and black fruit flavors with an earthy minerality and gorgeous balance. Succulent and long, it's truly a Grand Cru. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2009

Mongeard-Mugneret, Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($95, Vineyard Brands): The Mongeard-Mugneret style values finesse over power so it's not a surprise that this grand cru grabs your attention with elegance, complexity and length rather than sheer intensity. A hint of exotic mushroom-like nuances intermingled with fresh red fruit makes it the epitome of great Burgundy, incredible flavor without heaviness.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2007

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($450, Wilson Daniels): DRC's Échézeaux is traditionally the lightest in body and the readiest to drink of its six great reds. The '04 Échézeaux has exquisite aromas of wild cherries, is a bit lean in texture right now, with a good level of acidity. It has flavors of concentrated, tart red fruits, with a delicacy, finesse, and liveliness that makes it very attractive. It should take on more weight with a few years of aging. 91 Ed McCarthy Mar 6, 2007

Domaine Lamarche, Echezeaux Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($110): Although the first sniff and taste of this wine are dominated by notes drawn from new oak barrels, a second look shows lots of

concentrated fruit. Although the density of the wine and the slightly dry, smoky character of the wood conceal the fruit at first blush, continued scrutiny reveals an impressive tenderness and delicacy that will surely produce a terrific balance once the wine has aged for several years. Echezeaux is one of the least expensive grands crus, largely because it is one of the least consistent (after Clos Vougeot), but this is definitely one to buy. 92 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Domaine du Clos Frantin (Bichot), Echézeaux Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($360):

Bichot’s Domaine du Clos Frantin owns two and a third acres in the lieu-dit of Champs Traversin from which they make a consistently spectacular Echézeaux. The 2018 is no exception. It is explosive, yet not weighty. It delivers a touch of spice along with a plethora of subtle fruit flavors. Its understated power and suaveness are captivating. It’s my definition of Burgundy — flavor without weight.
96 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2020

Domaine Humbert Frères, Fixin (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2014 ($50, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): It’s a sad commentary of wine pricing when a bottle of Burgundy from Fixin, one of the least prestigious villages in the Côtes de Nuits, costs fifty bucks. But that’s life, and compared to many of the Pinot Noir coming out of California, it’s still a reasonable price for a wine made from that grape--especially this one. Domaine Humbert Frères, a consistently good producer, has fashioned a village wine from old vines (60 years) that has the character and complexity of a premier cru. An underlying savory, almost leathery quality complements the bright red and black fruit notes. This is an example of how old vines trump the appellation system, resulting in a wine that exceeds its pedigree.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2016

Domaine St. Martin, Fixin (Burgundy, France) 1er Cru Les Hervelets 2004 ($40, Chemin des Vins/Patrick LeSec): Perhaps the best wine from Fixin I've ever had, the 2004 from Domaine St. Martin has layers of flavors and length. Not marred by the hardness sometimes found in wines from this village, its pure fruit flavors are complemented by an engaging earthiness. It's an elegant style of wine. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006

Domaine Philippe Naddef, Fixin (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($35): Naddef makes excellent wines from Gevrey, but his Fixin can also be excellent. This shows impressive intensity and power, with serious density to the dark fruit notes and lots of fine-grained tannin. 88 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Louis Jadot, Fixin (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($21, Kobrand): Fixin, at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, is another of the lesser-known Burgundy villages whose wines are well priced. Dark, chunky red berry, spice, and black fruit flavors dominate. Rather big-shouldered for a village Burgundy. More fruity than subtle. 88 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Château des Jacques, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

This Fleurie comes from two sites within the village. (Jadot has yet to make a single vineyard wine from Fleurie.) One site is at a higher elevation and cooler, which Cyril Chirouze, Château des Jacques’ winemaker, says provides grapes that impart elegance to the wine, while the other warmer site provides power. His explanation is readily apparent after just one sip -- though it’s impossible to stop after one sip. Floral and polished, this Fleurie delivers both seductively charming power and finesse. This is not “Beaujolais” as you know it -- it’s Fleurie.
92 Michael Apstein May 23, 2017

Chateau du Chatelard, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($14, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.):

While fairly dense and, at 13% alcohol, ripe for the area, this is still a characteristic Fleurie with a lightness of body, pretty floral notes, red plum fruit and gravelly minerality on the finish. The quality-price ratio on this wine is extremely high. 91 W. Blake Gray Jan 10, 2012

Georges Duboeuf, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine des Quatre Vents 2009 ($17, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.):

Fragrant rose petal and dark fruits mark the aromatics of this charming Cru Beaujolais. The deep ruby color, subtle grapy Gamay aromas, coupled with a trace of spice marry nicely with the richly textured dark fruit flavors. This is pure Gamay with good length and fruit. 91 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Château des Labourons, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($18, Louis Latour USA): Fleurie, one of the ten named villages or crus of Beaujolais, is allowed to put its name on the label, with or without reference to Beaujolais. The Château des Labourons has opted to omit Beaujolais from the label because, as Bernard Retornaz, the President of Louis Latour Inc in charge of North American Market, said, “This is real wine, not some grapey swill that’s become associated with Beaujolais.” He is so correct. This Fleurie, fermented in old vats in the traditional way, has depth and an earthy appeal that balances its fruitiness. The barely perceptible tannins in this mid-weight wine even allow you to chill it slightly for drinking with grilled skirt steak this summer. This is not your father’s Beaujolais.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013

Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Tardive” 2007 ($30, Louis Dressner Selections): The Clos de la Roilette is a beautifully located 22-acre vineyard in Fleurie, one of the ten crus (named villages) of Beaujolais, adjacent to Moulin-a-Vent. This, the Cuvée Tardive--not to be confused with a vendange tardive, which would indicate a sweet wine--is a selection from old vines and typically needs more aging time. The 2007 is no exception. This is no flowery or grapey Beaujolais. Rather, it's serious stuff, with firm tannins, but plenty of stuffing--black fruit and spice--to reward cellaring. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2009

Georges DuBoeuf, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos des Quatre Vents 2010 ($16, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): Of DuBoeuf's two premium Fleuries, this is the easier-drinking and also the more typical of the region; it delivers black plum fruit with some floral notes and a sticky, slightly thick mouthfeel. 90 W. Blake Gray Jan 10, 2012

Georges Duboeuf, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($16, WJ Deutsch): Fleurie is often thought to be one of the more delicate of the Beaujolais Crus, but this 2010 Fleurie from Duboeuf is no shrinking violet. From the deep ruby color, forward nose with dark fruits and a leafy note, to the bright fruit flavors, firm tannins, 13.5% alcohol and a long finish showing black cherry, this is a Cru of substance and potential. It could be the high quality of the 2010 vintage in Beaujolais, but this strikes me as an atypical Fleurie. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 25, 2011

JP Champagon, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) 2004 ($17, Elite Imports): If you think all Beaujolais is just sweet pap with no more complexity than a cherry Lifesaver, seek out this pleasing little Fleurie. It's just bursting with ripe fruit flavors plus an underlying wet-stone minerality. 89 Marguerite Thomas Mar 6, 2007

Potel Aviron, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): All of the village cru wines from Stéphane Aviron are--in my opinion--clearly worth the step up in price from the Beaujolais Villages, as none of them cost more than an additional $3 to $6. Of course, it is easy for me to spend your money, but there’s no question that you’ll get more than your money’s worth for the incrementally higher prices for the crus. This Fleurie sports a lovely floral topnote, followed by red cherry fruit that packs surprising punch from this stereotypically feminine cru. Quite fresh in the high-acid 2010 vintage, this also shows very appealing minerality in the finish.
89 Michael Franz Jun 11, 2013

Georges DuBoeuf, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Chateau de Grand Pré 2010 ($15, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): A very interesting wine that might be shocking to drinkers expecting a mild-mannered Fleurie. The notes of kirsch are so strong that it tastes almost like a liqueur, with a slight herbal aroma. 88 W. Blake Gray Jan 10, 2012

Joseph Drouhin, Fleurie (Beaujolais) Domaine des Hospices de Belleville 2014 ($26): With a gorgeous nose of cranberry and violets on the nose, this Fleurie shows exceptional potential but disappoints a bit on the palate. The tannins are quite aggressive, masking the inviting aromas of cranberry and cherry. It has every right to improve as the tannins soften over time.
87 Robert Whitley May 10, 2016

Henry Fessy, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2007 ($13, Louis Latour Inc.): The venerable Burgundy négociant, Maison Louis Latour, has just purchased this well-known Beaujolais producer. Although we can expect a bump up in quality as Latour takes control, this 2007 Fleurie, from one of the 10 named villages in Beaujolais, is already an engaging wine. Floral and fruity, it represents quintessential, easy-to-drink Beaujolais, perfect for everyday fare. While not terribly complex, it has more concentration and finesse than most of its ilk. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 27, 2009

Domaine Bouvier, Gevrey Chambertin (Burgundy, France) “Les Jeunes Rois” 2005 ($50): This gorgeous wine has a winning combination of soft, fresh, open fruit aromas and exotic, earthy elements. The fruit is sweet and expressive, and the earthy note is clean rather than gamy or bretty, and wood notes are appropriately subtle. 90 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Domaine Rene Leclerc, Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Combes aux Moines 2005 ($65):

I usually associate this vineyard in Gevrey with masculine wines based on black fruit notes, but this is a pretty, feminine wine based on charming notes of red raspberries and bing cherries. Delicate flavors are supported by fittingly soft, fine-grained tannins. 90 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Domaine René Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) Clos Prieur 2018 ($77, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

The Clos Prieur vineyard, which is just across the road from Mazi-Chambertin, a Grand Cru, covers two appellations. The upper part is Premier Cru and lower part carries a village appellation. But once again, producer can trump geography. René Leclerc’s village Clos Prieur has more style and substance than many producers’ premier crus. It is classic Gevrey, with a mixture of leather and dark fruit-like flavors. Succulent, but not just fruity by any means, it offers plenty of intriguing savory flavor in a bright and balanced package. Excellent acidity in the finish amplifies its appeal. Open now and capture its charms or cellar for five plus years.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021

Alain Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) “Mes Favorites” Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($100, Frederick Wildman): Here’s an example of how the French appellation system breaks down. This village wine delivers more elegance and complexity than many producers’ wines from premier cru vineyards. For this wine, Burguet combines grapes from old vines located in various parcels that lie on the slope between the village and the road. Both the slope location and the old vines contribute to the wine’s extraordinary complexity. It delivers a seamless combination of ripe fruit and savory nuances without bearing heavy or overbearing. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 3, 2012

Domaine Antonin Guyon, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) “La Justice” 2017 ($85, Taub Family Selections):

Domaine Antonin Guyon is a name you can trust. They make incredibly consistent wines from Grand Cru to their village wines, such as this one, that lies on the wrong side of the road. La Justice is one of the rare vineyards that lies on the eastern side of the RN974, the main north-south road in Burgundy, to be awarded a village designation instead of just a regional appellation. Its breeding is immediately apparent with its finesse and persistence. Not a boisterous wine, it conveys a delicate savory character and a long, explosive finish. It’s one of the 2017s that’s approachable — really charming — now.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2020

Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($60, Vins Divins): Not all village wines are created equal, which highlights another flaw in the French appellation system. This one towers above most village wines because of the contribution of the old vines that, for whatever reason, add a dose of complexity. The earthy, savory aspect is enhanced by the sweet succulence of the 2009 vintage. Firm but smooth, tannins and bright acidity offset the lush fruit element. At this risk of repeating myself, you can’t have too many ‘09 red Burgundies in your cellar. And be sure to include this one. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2012

Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) Vieille Vignes 2012 ($67):

Gevrey-Chambertin, since it is a large and well-known appellation, is filled with both promise and peril for those seeking top-notch wines with a “village” moniker. Some producers rely on the stature of the appellation to sell their wines, whereas the committed ones want to fulfill the potential the appellation has to offer. Put Dupont-Tisserandot squarely in the latter category. Their 2012 is a terrific village wine, in part, no doubt, because it comes from old wines. That Dupont-Tisserandot is a consistently excellent producer doesn’t hurt either. It delivers a slightly earthy and leathery quality combined with dark fruitiness that I associate with Gevrey-Chambertin. Still youthful, with good concentration and fine tannins, it is not overdone. It’s a great combination of power and elegance.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2016

Joseph Faiveley, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($65, Frederick Wildman): This is a terrific village level Gevrey, showing the muscle of the appellation but also the charmingly open, soft character of the 2009 vintage in Burgundy. Subtle oak accents firm and frame the fruit without drying it, and savory notes provide lovely accents to the ripe fruit flavors.
92 Michael Franz Apr 24, 2012

Maison Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($55, Louis Latour USA): Village Burgundians, those wines made from vineyards that are not classified as Premier or Grand Cru, are often overlooked. Burgundy collectors typically scramble to buy the wines from those more revered appellations. Wise consumers, however, should look for village wines from top growers or négociants, such as this one. This is a stunning village Gevrey-Chambertin, delivering the earthy leather-like savory component for which Gevrey-Chambertin is revered. It has the density of the 2012 vintage, bright acidity and supple tannins, which means it’s a delight to drink now. Serve it with a simple main course, such as a pan-seared steak, to let the complexity of the wine envelope you.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2016

Vincent Girardin, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($50, Vineyard Brands): This very impressive wine takes a little while to open, which is hardly surprising for those who know the Pinots of Gevrey-Chambertin. Yet, with an hour of air, it blossoms to reveal wonderful fruit recalling black cherries and black raspberries, with a subtle meaty character and a little whiff of smoke. I re-tasted the uncorked open bottle a day later, and the wine was only better for all of that air, suggesting that this already delicious wine will develop and improve for a good decade or more if properly cellared. 91 Michael Franz Nov 20, 2007

Domaine Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) Ostrea 2003 ($53, Chemin des Vins/Patrick LeSec): The Ostrea vineyard, not a premier cru, is located on the north-Brochon-side of Gevrey and takes its name from the oyster shells found in the soil. Ripe and supple-but not hot as was all too frequently the case with 2003 Burgundies-Trapet's village Gevrey-Chambertin has lovely balance and is delicious to drink now. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($41, Dreyfus, Ashby): Gevrey-Chambertin, a village on the northern part of the Côte de Nuits, produces perhaps the most full-bodied, powerful Burgundies on the Côte d'Or. Drouhin's 2004 Gevrey-Chambertin is rich and tannic, with faint black fruit aromas and flavors. It really needs four or five years to develop. 90 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Joseph Faiveley, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($60, Frederick Wildman & Sons): This is a very successful negociant wine in this vintage, showing the intensity and power of Gevrey, but also the characteristic freshness and lift of the 2010 growing season. The dark cherry fruit shows both sweet and savory dimensions, with a firm spine from tannin and oak, yet the finish is already quite generously flavorful. Hold this for five years if you can. 90 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($66, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, one of the most recognizable and prestigious villages in Burgundy, are always pricey. Négociants tell me that it is increasingly difficult for them to find good sources as more and more growers bottle their own production instead of selling it in bulk to négociants. Maison Joseph Drouhin, a négociant with a deservedly superb reputation, clearly has no trouble finding good sources in Gevrey-Chambertin judging from this wine. It’s a remarkable village wine, combining bright dark fruit flavors with an alluring earthy component. Mild tannins and the hallmark Drouhin laciness complete the picture. Not a wine for extended aging, I would enjoy its considerable charm over the next several years with a simply prepared veal chop.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2016

Maison Lou Dumont, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($60, Langdon Shiverick Imports):

Koji Nakada, a former Japanese sommelier, created Maison Lou Dumont along with his wife in 2000. Though they now own a few acres of vineyards, most of their wine comes from the time-honored Burgundian tradition of being a négociant -- buying grapes from growers, vinifying, aging and bottling the wine themselves. Judging from this lovely village wine as well as their Bourgogne Rouge, Nakada has found very good sources. This Gevrey combines floral and earthy notes in a clean pure wine with substantial length. Nicely balanced, it delightful to drink now.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2015

Maison Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($66, Louis Latour, USA): Village wines from Gevrey-Chambertin can be among the most disappointing red Burgundies because some growers think they can get away bottling anything and selling it under that famous name. Fortunately, this is not one of them. Quite the contrary, the complexity and finesse suggest a premier cru. Indeed, the superb 2009 vintage for red Burgundy gives consumers an opportunity to buy many village wines with the character of premier crus. Supple tannins are in perfect harmony with the ripe fruit, a hallmark of the 2009 vintage. A subtle intriguing leathery component complements its fruitiness. It’s a great village wine. You can’t have too many 2009 red Burgundies in your cellar. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($55, VOS Selections):

Village wines, caught between entry level regional Bourgogne or Côtes de Nuits Villages and the sought-after premier and grand crus, are often overlooked--even scorned--by Burgundy drinkers. Don't overlook this one. It leads with a subtly floral nose and then grabs you with an elegant combination of spice, leather and earth. It highlights the finesse and length on Pinot Noir as opposed to raw power. This is a fine example of a village wine. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008

Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($63, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Maume, a family run property, owns about 10 acres of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin. When young, Maume wines, like this one, emphasize power rather than finesse. In this case, there's enormous concentration, more than you'd expect for a village wine, but at this stage the oak flavor and tannin is a little too prominent, which means it's a good candidate for the cellar. Undoubtedly, it will settle down and come together over the next several years. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Maison Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos St. Jacques 2005 ($129, Kobrand): This is a Grand Cru wine in all respects except the label. The story goes that when the locals were classifying the vineyards in the 1930s as either Grand or Premier Cru, the Clos St. Jacques was set to be included as a Grand Cru. The problem was that a resident of Meursault owned the vineyard and--all politics being local--the citizens of Gevrey-Chambertin quashed its inclusion into that rarefied classification. Jadot's 2005 Clos St. Jacques has that magical combination of power without heaviness. Polished and rich, the never-ending subtleties of earth, black fruit and spice bombard the palate. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2007

Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Petits Cazetiers 2009 ($90, Frederick Wildman): Les Petits Cazetiers is adjacent to Les Cazetiers, its famous neighbor that

many producers believe is the village’s best premier cru vineyard. But there’s nothing small about this wine. It’s quintessential Burgundy delivering flavor without heaviness. Leathery and earthy notes peek out from a rich, but not overbearing, assortment of red and black fruit flavors. Paradoxically it’s almost delicate despite the waves of flavors. Long and fresh, it’s a beautifully structured and balanced red Burgundy that’s irresistibly charming now. 93 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2012

Domaine Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Combe Aux Moines 2005 ($100): The demand for the marvelous 2005 vintage in red Burgundy has pushed all the prices higher. You may shudder at the price--after all, this is premier, not grand, cru--but you'll smile after you taste the wine. Gallois' Combe Aux Moines delivers those classic Gevrey-Chambertin earthy, woodsy touches mixed with a hint of smoke and plenty of black fruit. It conveys incredible flavor--without heaviness--and length, while retaining elegance. Good structure (in the forms of fine tannins and vibrant acidity) suggest that this wine will enjoy a long life. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Les Cazetiers) 2006 ($96, VOS Selections): In addition to his excellent village Gevrey-Chambertin, Dupont-Tisserandot made a stellar group of wines from that village's premier and grand cru sites in 2006. The signature--elegance and finesse, not raw power--is the same, but this Les Cazetiers has more of everything, reflecting the stature of the vineyard. Nuances of gaminess marry nicely with the spice and leather notes. Fine tannins make it remarkably approachable now. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008

Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2007 ($165, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): This pretty wine shows the grace and beauty of some 2007 red Burgundies. Floral and delicate, it’s long and balanced. But don’t for a minute think that delicate means light. No, this is classic Burgundy: flavor--savory leafy notes--without weight. And very appealing now. The only drawback--not unique to this wine, but to many Burgundies in general--is the price. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010

Lucien Le Moine, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cazetiers 2007 ($108, Vintus): Le Moine, a small négociant--his total production is only 2,500 cases--started just a decade ago, but has already made a name for himself. He works with one or two growers in each appellation focusing on Premier and Grand Crus and producing only a few barrels of each wine. Les Cazetiers is considered one of the top premier cru vineyards (along with Clos St. Jacques) in Gevrey-Chambertin. Le Moine’s 2007 is wonderfully supple and polished now with gorgeous flowing red fruit-like flavors. But the almost ethereal earthiness and leathery notes bring a haunting savory quality that complements its fruitiness. Beautifully integrated, additional flavors emerge with each sip. It’s hard to imagine it won’t be one of the top red wines from the vintage. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2010

Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2006 ($96, VOS Selections): This premier cru comes across a little coarser than his Les Cazetiers and shows Burgundy's earthier side. Although not as refined, it conveys a charming rusticity. It would be a good choice for more robust fare. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008

Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Petit Chapelle 2002 ($55, Kobrand): From purchased grapes, Jacques Lardière, Jadot's exceptionally talented winemaker, has produced a very good, earthy, surprisingly big wine from a lesser known premier cru. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Petite Chapelle 2011 ($100, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.):

The “frères” running this Gevrey-Chambertin-based domaine are brothers Frédéric and Emmanuel Humbert. Though not as revered as the 2010 vintage, 2011 nonetheless produced some stunning wines. Humbert Frères’ Petite Chapelle is one of them. The Petite Chapelle vineyard is an enclave of premier cru land surrounded on three sides by vineyards carrying the less prestigious village appellation and on the fourth side by the Grand Cru, Chapelle-Chambertin. Humbert Frères’ 2011 is far closer in quality to the Grand Cru, and truly deserves the name, Petite Chapelle. A study in purity and precision, it conveys an impeccable balance of fruitiness and an alluring leathery earthiness. It impresses with its elegance and incredible length, rather than its power, though there’s plenty of that too. Remarkably expressive and enjoyable now, it’s another example of the “flavor without weight” that to me characterizes Burgundy.
94 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Domaine Lucien Boillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cherbaudes 2006 ($85, Kermit Lynch): Although the Les Cherbaudes vineyard has good neighbors, adjacent to the Grand Cru Chapelle-Chambertin and just down the hill from Grand Crus Chambertin-Clos de Beze and Mazis-Chambertin, it lacks the prestige of Gevrey’s best Premier Crus, Clos St. Jacques and Les Cazetiers. And that’s a good thing because, while expensive, this wine actually offers good value considering it’s from Burgundy’s most famous commune. Domaine Lucien Boillot’s talents are evident in this wine. Great aromatics predict expansive flavors. This is quintessential Burgundy-- flavor without weight. Red fruit flavors are imperceptibly interwoven with earthy notes. It’s a plush and balanced wine that exceeds the expectation of the vintage. 94 Michael Apstein Jul 13, 2010

Domaine Jean-Michel , Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “Les Champonnets” 2014 ($105, ViniFrance Imports):

This is a Burgundy for those that like a modern approach – it is deep and luxurious with concentrated aromas and flavors of black and red cherry, damp violet, forest floor, and hints of baking spice. It’s nearly full-bodied, with layered tannins, crisp acidity, and a strikingly complex and persistent finish. This is a perfect combination of power and refinement.
93 Miranda Franco Jan 4, 2022

Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($92, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection):

The wine comes from two separate premier cru vineyards, which are close to each other, but are distinct. Yields were so low in 2012--which helps to explain the high prices for that excellent vintage--that Gallois had to combine juice from the two vineyards to make a manageable quantity of wine. By doing that, he sacrificed the ability to label it with a vineyard name(s). But there’s no doubt about its stature. One whiff announces premier cru grandeur and one sip confirms it. It’s a hard-to-resist combination of fruit and earthy wrapped in suave tannins. Impeccable balance means it will develop gracefully with bottle age -- if you can keep your hands off it.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2015

Domaine de Clos Salomon, Givrey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Salomon 2016 ($35):

Domaine Salomon is a -- perhaps the -- star in Givrey, yet another under-rated village in the Côte Chalonnaise. (Don’t confuse this village with Gevrey, as in Chambertin, in the Côte d’Or.) This wine, their flagship, hails from a 17.5-acre that they own exclusively. In a word, it’s delicious. Bright acidity amplifies the intertwined red fruit and earth flavors in this mid-weight wine. Best of all, fabulously fine tannins add a seductive texture. Charming now, I have no doubt it will evolve beautifully over the next few years.
95 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2018

Antonin Rodet, Givry (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($25, Bock Wines): This village wine from Rodet undergoes temperature-controlled maceration and fermentation in open-top vats, with cap punch down, followed by barrel aging, 15% new, for 15 months. It has a medium-deep ruby color and forward, berry-rich aromatics with spice notes that follow through to the balanced fruity flavors supported by fine tannins and crisp acidity. All this close attention to winemaking and complexity in the wines for twenty-five bucks is a combination that would be hard to find among today’s New World Pinot Noirs. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Domaine Ragot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Premier Cru La Grande Berge 2002 ($25, Elite Wines): This appealing Burgundy conveys the classic fragrance of a springtime forest floor with its whiffs of fresh, damp earth, moss, and wet pebbles. It also has the distinct aroma and flavor of strawberries, though not the fat, commercial strawberries, but rather those petite fraises de bois that are savored throughout France for the wild, fleeting gustatory pleasure they bring. The delicacy of flavor and the wine's gossamer touch are a reminder that being whacked with fruit and alcohol isn't always what good wine is about. 90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 11, 2006

Domaine Chofflet-Valdenaire, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos de Choue 2008 ($26, Adventures in Wine): Grapes for this Pinot Noir came from vineyards averaging 28 years. Winemaker Denis Valdenaire opted for oak aging with a slightly different angle from others I tasted in Givry; 80% of the wine was aged for 12 months in oak barrels, the remainder held in tanks. The deeply-colored wine shows an open nose with ample fruit and the flavors have good structure, supported by tart acidity. A pleasant Pinot but it lacks varietal definition and length. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Domaine Joblot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 2007 ($58, Robert Kacher Selections): Givry, along with Mercurey, are the two most important villages for red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise. Wines from there may lack the prestige compared to those from the Côte d’Or, but are often equally enjoyable. Joblot, a leading producer based in Givry, makes wines from a number of that village’s vineyards. This one conveys a lovely, exotic, slightly barnyard-infused nose that reflects the earthy undertones that nicely complement the black-fruit notes. Quite long, it has the appealing charm characteristic of the reds from the 2007 vintage and is a good choice for current consumption. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 6, 2009

Louis Latour, Givry (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($21, Louis Latour Inc.): Louis Latour, the noted Burgundy producer, has extensive holdings in

Givry. This Pinot Noir was tank fermented and then aged in stainless steel tanks for 12 months. The result is a light ruby color, deep aromas of fresh berry and earthy notes. Texture, ample fruit and a hint of spice mark the flavors and finish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Domaine Joblot, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “L’Empreinte” 2017 ($47, Polaner Selections):

With the sky-high prices of wines from the Côte d’Or, consumers who love the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based wines from Burgundy must look elsewhere within that region. Givry, in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a good place to start, especially with the wines from Domaine Joblot, one of the top producers in the appellation. L’Empreinte is a blend of their best barrels from a variety of premier cru vineyards. It delivers the stony underpinning for which the wines of Givry are known as well as a welcome concentration and depth. Refined and powerful, it shows that the charms of Burgundy exist outside the Côte d’Or.
91 Michael Apstein May 7, 2019

Domaine Thenard, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint-Pierre 2008 ($28, David Bowler Wines): Domaine Thenard is an old, rambling winery that turns out berry-rich Pinots with texture and length. Traditional fermentation in oak vats and then aging in large cooperage and barrels gives this wine bright cherry-berry aromas and flavors, non-obtrusive refined tannins, good length and structure. The wine’s light ruby color runs counter to the New World practice of deeply colored Pinots, but doesn’t diminish the rich flavors and texture. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Louis Baisinbert, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2013 ($40):

Baisinbert made just two barrels of this charming red. Wonderfully fragrant, it delivers bright raspberry-like fruitiness without a trace of heaviness or jamminess. He has delivered a wine with good body and concentration, avoiding the leanness often found in wines from Givry. As expected from red Burgundy, the flavors dance on the palate. Not a heavy-weight, this Givry Premier Cru would be a good choice for lighter meats or even broiled salmon this winter.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2016

Alex Gambal, Grand Cru Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($175, Schneiders of Capital Hill): The 2009 vintage produced excellent red Burgundies. This is one of them. Though quite ripe, reflective of the warmth of the vintage, it has not lost its focus or identity. This Clos Vougeot captures the minerality and floral aspect of that Grand Cru vineyard and has plenty of structure beneath the ripeness and to assure a long life. Its beautiful balance suggests it will evolve gracefully over a decade or two, so I suggest cellaring it. But it’s pretty charming now. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012

Domaine Faiveley, Grand Cru Corton (Burgundy, France) Clos des Cortons Faiveley 2010 ($190, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Of all the Grand Cru red wines of Burgundy, those from Corton are almost

always the most affordable, so a look at the price of this wine might make you raise an eyebrow. But this thing is, a taste of the wine will get you to raise the other eyebrow as well. It shows outstanding depth and concentration for a Corton, with excellent intensity and persistence of flavor, but manages to do this without seeming weighty or over-ripe. There’s notable oak on the nose and mid-palate, but certainly not so much as to obscure the fruit or the savory and mineral notes as the wine finishes. Best after 2017, and a good bet to drink well until 2030. 96 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton (Burgundy, France) Grancey 2009 ($95, Louis Latour USA): Corton is the one Grand Cru for red wine in the Côte de Beaune. A variety of vineyard names, such as Grèves or Clos du Roi, can be affixed after the name Corton. Grancey, however, is not one of those names. Rather, it’s the proprietary name that Domaine Louis Latour uses for their best red wine from Corton and is blended from five plots, Corton-Grèves, -Bressandes, -Chaumes, -Pougets, and -Perrières. Latour is highly selective when considering what wine goes into this bottling. They don’t make it every year, and even in years when they do, only the best lots are included in the blend; the remainder goes into a “second” wine. The 2009 Corton Grancey is one of their best ever, rivaling their stellar 1985, which showed beautifully when I tasted it recently. The 2009 had a supple core of plush dark fruit flavors interspersed with savory and subtle earthy elements. With each sip, more flavors emerge. Polished and refined, it is easy to taste--and enjoy--now, but will likely close down in a year or two before it re-emerges in a decade or so. It’s hard to chose between this and Latour’s 2009 Corton Clos du Roi (also reviewed this week). 95 Michael Apstein Jul 6, 2011

Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($83, Louis Latour USA): This is a great wine. But that’s what you’d expect from a fabulous

vintage, a superb locale (you think the king gets the second best plot in Corton?) and a conscientious and talented producer. Although Latour is one of the region’s most prominent négociants, this wine comes exclusively from estate-owned plots they purchased over 100 years ago. Tightly wound at this stage, its succulence and richness takes time to unfold in the glass. But succulent and rich it is. It has a lovely firmness and structure to support its generous core of plump dark fruit. Those who believe (mistakenly) that Latour’s reds lack substance need only to sample this wine. Expect on cellaring it for a decade or so. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2011

Maison Louis Jadot, Grand Cru Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($150): The wines from Échézeaux, a large, 90-acre grand cru, are highly variable (like those from neighboring Clos de Vougeot). Although the producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, it’s doubly important when choosing Échézeaux. Jadot makes a great one, and it’s always one of their best wines. It outperforms their bottling of the more prestigious and expensive Grands Échézeaux because in Échézeaux, Jadot has complete control over the viticulture since they own a small piece of the vineyard. Jadot’s 2009 Échézeaux is simply extraordinary. Almost magically, it’s both powerful and refined, delivering a combination of floral notes and earthy minerality. New flavors and nuances float across the palate with each sip. Explosive yet not heavy, it is a classic Burgundy, providing flavor without weight. 97 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011

Domaine François Lamarche, Grand Cru La Grande Rue (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($387, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection):

La Grande Rue, squeezed between La Tache on one side and La Romanée, Romanée Conti and Romanée St Vivant on the other, is the least renown (and hence, the least expensive) of the famed Grand Cru of Vosne-Romanée. Similar to La Tache, La Romanée and Romanée Conti, it is a monopole -- that is, owned by only one Domaine. It’s quintessential Grand Cru Burgundy: Explosive but without weight or heaviness. Sure, it has spice, fruit and earth, but what makes it exceptional is its impact despite its delicacy. It’s not a powerhouse, but yet it’s captivating. It shows that Grand Cru Burgundy is not all about power.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2015

Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Grands Échézaux (Burgundy, France) NV ($685, Wilson-Daniels): This is the least ready-to-drink of the '08 DRCs; its strong tannins demand at least 5 years of cellaring and preferably longer. The pomegranate fruit is deep and weighty, currently covering up the spiciness that only emerges after the wine sits in the glass for more than an hour. DRC's tasting notes say “this is a rich wine even in its present austerity,” which sounded like a contradiction in terms until I tasted it. 93 W. Blake Gray Mar 8, 2011

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Grands Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($700, Wilson Daniels):

The 2004 DRC Grands Échézeaux is a big jump up in quality from the '04 Échézeaux, as it always is for me. It is darker in color and denser, and it is riper and richer than its little brother - unexpectedly rich for 2004. The '04 Grands Échézeaux has penetrating aromas and intense flavors of spice and fresh, ripe cherries, with a long finish. Its flavors are very pure, without a trace of oak. It is totally delicious even now, and will be memorable for at least two decades.

Maison Drouhin, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($175, Dreyfus Ashby): Sometimes wines from Grand Cru vineyards are disappointing. Not this domaine bottling. It has a magical combination of power and elegance and the extra umph that should characterize a Grand Cru. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Joseph Drouhin, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($183, Dreyfus, Ashby): Griotte-Chambertin is one of the smallest of the Grand Cru Chambertin vineyards, and also one of the more delicately-flavored Chambertins. The 2003 Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin has the classic, tart cherry aromas and flavors characteristic of this vineyard; it is velvety and complex on the palate, with great length. Save it for at least five years. Some 60 cases come to the U.S. 93 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Didier Montchovet, Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($28, Jenny & François Selections):

Didier Montchovet tames the coarseness found in many wines from the “Hautes Côtes.” In this Pinot Noir-based example, he has fashioned a charmingly rustic Burgundy than marries earthy and fruity qualities. Montchovet must be talented, indeed, to produce a red like this from the Hautes Côtes in 2014, a difficult year for Pinot Noir in that appellation. Ready now, it’s an ideal choice for a roast chicken with sautéed mushrooms. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2017

Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2012 ($29): One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna. Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. Bertagna’s 2012 has good concentration -- the vintage speaking, charming rusticity -- that’s the appellation, and surprising suaveness, the hallmark of the producer. It’s an excellent choice for grilled tuna or salmon.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2015

Domaine Dominique Guyon, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Les Dames de Vergy 2012 ($35, Esprit du Vin):

Though the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, the higher, less well-situated land just west of the Côte d’Or, is a rather down-market appellation, it can be the place to fine authentic Burgundy, especially from a dedicated producer such as Domaine Dominique Guyon. Dominique founded his eponymous domaine in 1980 with about 55 acres in the Hautes Côtes. It is separate and distinct from the famous, well-known family property, Domaine Antonin Guyon, which founded by his grandfather and which Dominique also runs. The vineyard, Les Dames de Vergy, lies just outside of Nuits St. Georges, which likely explains why the wine has a bit of the “wildness” I associate with that appellation. Along with a ripe plumpness, the wine delivers a charming rusticity and provides immediate enjoyment along side a quickly grilled hanger steak. It is a well-priced honest Burgundy.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 16, 2015

Simonnet-Febvre, Irancy (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($20):

Irancy, a small red wine appellation in northern Burgundy, near Chablis, is a name to remember. Its northern locale has meant lean and angular wines in the past because Pinot Noir was tough to ripen. But climate change in general and the wonderfully warm 2015 vintage means it’s time to take another look at this under-the-radar area. Simonnet-Febvre, a top Chablis producer, fashioned a balanced Irancy in 2015, focusing on the mineral side of Pinot Noir as opposed to its fruity aspect. A pleasant touch of bitter cherry-like flavor appears in the finish. Don’t expect opulence in this wine, but its firm edge makes it a lovely match for marinated grilled chicken.
89 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2019

Georges Duboeuf, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) Chateau des Capitans 2009 ($18, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.): Duboeuf barrel-aged 15% of the wine from this famous vineyard estate in Beaujolais. All of the lovely floral-berry character of Gamay is here and then some, with depth in the nose and palate. The wine has good length, a hint of toasted oak, strawberry preserves and a trace of road tar. This impressive Julienas finishes with good structure and acidity. 91 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Joseph Burrier, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) "Les Paquelets" 2005 ($20, Ex-Cellars): Burrier, proprietor of the high-quality Château de Beauregard in Pouilly-Fuissé, also acts as a small négociant for a few wines from Beaujolais. This terrific wine from Julienas, one of the best crus of Beaujolais, conveys fresh fruity, but not grapey, flavors along with an alluring wildness often characteristic of wines from this village. Succulent and long, it should convert those who doubt that Beaujolais can be serious wine. Although expensive compared to mass-produced Beaujolais, it's a great value based on what it delivers. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Georges DuBoeuf, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Chateau de Capitans 2010 ($16, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): This chateau with a 15-acre vineyard has been making wine since the 18th century. This is a rich wine for Beaujolais, with black and red plum notes and measurable tannins. The mouthfeel is delightfully smooth; it's a pure drinking pleasure, and great value. 90 W. Blake Gray Jan 10, 2012

Michel Tete, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine du Clos du Fief “Cuvée Prestige” 2006 ($30, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tete makes serious Beaujolais. His wines dispel the notion that Beaujolais is simply grapey swill. He makes this Cuvée Prestige along with a regular bottling from the Domaine du Clos du Fief (also reviewed this week). The Cuvée Prestige comes from old vines, which explains the unusual complexity--layers of black and red fruit seamlessly intermingled with minerality--not often found in Beaujolais. Thirty bucks is a lot to ask for Beaujolais, but this is not your usual Beaujolais. It will even convert the doubters. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Potel Aviron, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($17, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Quite complex and interesting, this is a serious Julienas and a seriously strong value as well. Subtle aromas of herbs, wildflowers, spices and dark fruit are very appealing, followed by flavors that are deep and persistent. Ample body is freshened by bright acidity, and the persistent finish shows appealing mineral tinges.
90 Michael Franz Jun 11, 2013

Potel-Aviron, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($15): As with the rest of Burgundy, Beaujolais had two great back-to-back vintages in 2009 and 2010. And, as with the rest of Burgundy, the styles of the two vintages in Beaujolais are very different, making it extremely

difficult to choose between the two. While Stéphane Aviron calls the 2009s “sunny wines,” his twinkling smile accompanying his words of “finesse-filled” when describing the 2010s indicates he is clearly pleased with them. After tasting this 2010 Julienas, it’s clear why. An alluring combination of floral and spicy elements draws you in quickly and the classy finish holds your attention. There’s not a trace of the ripe grapey flavors often associated with Beaujolais. Finesse-filled indeed! 90 Michael Apstein Apr 3, 2012

Georges Duboeuf, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Chateau des Capitans 2010 ($19, WJ Deutsch):

Duboeuf, often dubbed the King of Beaujolais because he controls so much of the production of that region, was the first négociant to credit the individual grower by putting growers’ names, in addition to his own, on labels. Château des Capitans is a well-sited property in Juliénas, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais owned jointly by Duboeuf and his U.S. importer. While lots of attention has, justifiably, been showered on the 2009 vintage in Beaujolais, the 2010 vintage is also producing excellent wines. The 2010 Château des Capitans has an attractive “wild” aspect, reminiscent of wild strawberries. Spice and savory notes balance the bright fruit flavors. Zippy acidity and mild tannins lend support and make this a serious wine. Anyone for burgers on the grill? 89 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Vincent Audras, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Haute-Combe 2006 ($19, Becky Wasserman Selection): Julienas is one of the ten crus--best villages--within the Beaujolais region. This wine’s charmingly rustic character nicely complements and offsets the cherry-like fruitiness. Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being abrasive. It’s a perfect “bistro” wine. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2009

Georges Duboeuf, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) 'Flower Label' 2009 ($13, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.): It is surprising that this full-bodied Julienas is a little closed in the noise. Still, it is showing ripe berry and mineral notes with a hint of boiled tea; more like Pinot Noir than Gamay. Good texture and fruit, it lacks the finesse of the Capitans Julienas. 88 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Michel Tete, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine du Clos du Fief 2006 ($24, Louis Dressner Selections): The wines from Julienas, one of the 10 named villages--or crus--of Beaujolais typically have an attractive spice and rusticity which makes them one of my favorites from that region. Michel Tete captures that essential essence--spiced red fruit--in this beautifully balanced wine. It has plenty of depth and substance without hard edges. Drink it now with hearty stews or save it until the weather allows you to throw meat on the grill. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Michel Tête, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de Clos du Fief 2007 ($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tête, one of the top Beaujolais producers, uses the name Domaine de Clos du Fief for the vineyards he owns in Juliénas, one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais allowed to carry the village name. Wines from Juliénas typically display a charming rusticity and true to form, this one combines that engaging quality with an earthy—almost briary—character that melds nicely with the bright red fruit flavors. It’s an ideal match for take-out rotisserie chicken or other simple fare. Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010

Stéphane Aviron, Juliénas (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($21, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd):

While not as ripe and fleshy as the 2015 wines from Beaujolais, the 2016s are racier while maintaining charm for which the region is known. Aviron’s Juliénas borrows a bit of the density of his Chénas and combines it with an alluring spice. Suave mild tannins and bright acidity make it ideal for current consumption.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2018

Georges Duboeuf, Juliénas (Beaujolais, France) Chateau des Capitans 2006 ($15, W.J. Deutsch):

The Beaujolais from the Juliénas cru has always been one of my favorites for its consistency, balance and concentration. Duboeuf's '06 single-vineyard Juliénas, Château des Capitans, is just super: lots of flavor, medium-bodied, medium tannins, and even better the second day! An all-season wine. 90 Ed McCarthy Jul 24, 2007

Potel-Aviron, Juliénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($19, Frederick Wildman):

Juliénas, one of the ten named cru of Beaujolais, benefitted, like the rest of Burgundy, from the perfect 2009 growing season. And Potel-Aviron, one of the region’s most consistent producers, produced stunning 2009s. You can basically choose his 2009s blindfolded. This one has beautiful concentration without losing any of the exotic spice and earthiness that characterizes the wines of Juliénas. Unusual for Beaujolais, this one will actually be better, more suave, in another year or so as the hint of firm tannins melt away. If you’re drinking it now, open it a few hours in advance, even decant it, and serve it with hearty fare. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Potel-Aviron, Juliennas (Beaujolais, France) 2004 ($16, Frederick Wildman): Nicolas Potel is making his mark in the Cote d'Or, but his modern style is reflected in his Beaujolais wines as well. This Beaujolais crus from Julienas has the structure and feel of a red Burgundy, with a complex nose and excellent body and grip. 88 Robert Whitley Oct 3, 2006

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, La Tache (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($2,000, Wilson Daniels):

The 2004 La Tache's calling card is elegance rather than power. It has perfect balance; even now, not even three years old, it seems to be complete, and yet it is only beginning its evolution. Its texture and structure, and its concentrated aromas and rich flavors of red and black fruits indicate that the '04 La Tache will have a very long life indeed. It is quietly powerful, and all class. 98 Ed McCarthy Mar 6, 2007

Domaine de la Romanée Conti, La Tâche (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($1,175, Wilson-Daniels): This is a great wine that might last for decades. It's elegant and beautiful on the nose: raspberry and violet with a hint of white truffle. The palate is complex, subtle and layered, with notes of raspberry and white truffle standing out amidst plenty of wisps of savoriness. A somewhat tannic finish suggests that its best days are at least five years away. 99 W. Blake Gray Mar 8, 2011

Domaine Prince de Merode, Ladoix (Burgundy, France) "Les Chaillots" 2004 ($24, Polaner Selections): Ladoix, named for a tiny village at the northern end of the Côte de Beaune just north of Corton, practically unknown in the U.S., is invariably well priced. The 2004 Les Chaillots is typical of the style that Prince de Merode (a well-known producer) favors. It is light-bodied and very flavorful, if delicately so, and has lots of finesse and charm. The kind of Burgundy one might make his "house" wine, perfect for luncheons and light, warm-weather dinners. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($94, Henriot, Inc.):

Philippe Prost, Bouchard’s winemaker, has outdone himself with this Corton. A beautifully structured frame supports luxuriously ripe dark fruit. Subtle bitter cherry notes emerge from beneath polished tannins. A savory component in the finish adds to the intrigue. Unusually big and concentrated for Corton, it nonetheless retains all the elegance and finesse characteristic of a Grand Cru. Anyone who doubts that Corton deserves Grand Cru status needs to taste this wine. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2012

Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($91, Henriot, Inc.): Bouchard has substantial holdings in Corton from which they make consistently fine examples. This is one of them. Showing its grand cru status, it conveys a core of ripe--almost sweet--fruit encircled by supple tannins. Remarkably forward, the charm of the 2007 vintage is apparent. Still, it has plenty of stuffing and power without losing any of its delicacy. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 12, 2010

Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($91, Henriot, Inc.): Bouchard has substantial holdings in Corton from which they make consistently fine examples. This is one of them. Showing its grand cru status, it conveys a core of ripe--almost sweet--fruit encircled by supple tannins. Remarkably forward, the charm of the 2007 vintage is apparent. Still, it has plenty of stuffing and power without losing any of its delicacy. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 9, 2010

Domaine Cordier Père et Fils, Mâcon (Burgundy, France) “aux Bois d’Allier” 2007 ($20, Robert Kacher Selections): Cordier is one of the producers in the Côte Mâconnais who waited to harvest the Chardonnay and hence, made excellent wines in 2007 because they have with sufficient ripeness to balance the crisp acidity. Fleshy with a direct impact, this white Burgundy has a subtle stony character more restraint than many New World Chardonnays. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2009

Maison Guillot-Broux, Mâcon Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($23, Vintus):

Domaine Guillot-Broux makes exceptional red wines from what most people consider an unexceptional place for them, the Mâconnais. Sure, the Mâconnais is home to a slew of terrific, and well-priced, whites. But reds? It’s not the first, or even the fourth, place people think of for reds. That is, if they haven’t tasted those from Domaine Guillot-Broux, which was founded by Jean-Gérard Guillot and his wife in 1978. The estate is now run by their children, Emmanuel and Patrice. They have always farmed organically and have been certified as such for more than three decades, since 1991. The 2019 minerally Mâcon Rouge, made entirely from Gamay, is a revelation. The soil here is limestone, not granite like it is in Beaujolais, and the resulting wine is entirely different from Beaujolais. Bright and stone-y, not grapey, this light to mid-weight red displays a pleasant firmness that accents its minerality. Ready to drink now, it is an ideal choice for a take-out roast chicken.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2023

Maison Louis Latour, Macon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) "Les Genievres" 2004 ($16, Louis Latour): Maison Louis Latour makes fabulous white wines. Their Corton Charlemagne is the benchmark for that Grand Cru vineyard. But it turns out that this "lowly" wine from Mâcon is worth noting as well because it consistently delivers enjoyment at a reasonable price. The 2004 has subtle creaminess and a citric edge that keeps it lively. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006

Domaine Michel Sarrazin, Maranges (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($38, North Berkeley Wine Imports):

With prices of fine Burgundy rising every vintage, it’s refreshing to find wines of this quality still available at relatively affordable levels. Maranges is an oft-overlooked appellation at the south end of the Côte de Beaune. It has long been a fine source of affordable, high quality red Burgundies. The 2020 Sarrazin Maranges is exemplary of the appellation. Ripe red cherry and raspberry fruit aromas are deliciously pure. The intense fruits are enhanced by elegant floral, herb and baking spice tones. The flavors are lively and spicy with the pure, tart red fruits followed by floral, earthy, herb and baking spice elements. It is pure and lively on the palate with surprising depth and nuance. Burgundian Pinot Noir is endearing because it balances pure fruit character with an enchanting combination of texture and layering. The Sarrazin Maranges offers all of these qualities and more.
93 Wayne Belding Oct 4, 2022

Xavier Monnot, Maranges 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Fussière 2012 ($45, Robert Katcher Selections):

Though wine has been made in Maranges for centuries, the appellation is relatively new for Burgundy, having been established only in 1988. Prior to that date, the wines were sold under the broad Côte de Beaune Villages umbrella. The appellation marks the southern boundary of the Côte d’Or, adjacent to and south of Santenay. Maranges’ relatively obscurity means that the prices of the wines does not yet reflect their quality, but that will change. Monnot is the sole owner of Clos de la Fussière (a monopole), a rarity in Burgundy where the vineyards usually are owned by scores of growers. It is the prime portion of, and not to be confused with, the larger premier cru vineyard, Fussière, which explains its higher price compared to other wines from Maranges. Monnot’s 2012 Clos de la Fussière has a winning combination of charming rusticity with the delicacy and purity characteristic of fine Burgundy. Attractive ripeness and supple tannins allow for immediate consumption. This easy-to-recommend wine would be an excellent choice for roast chicken and sautéed mushrooms.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2015

Domaine Bachelet-Monnot, Maranges Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Fussière 2010 ($36, Vintage '59 Imports):

The 2009 and 2010 vintages for red Burgundy are looking like the best back-to-back duo in a generation, surpassing 1989 and 1990 in overall quality in my opinion. The relative merits of the two growing seasons is now the remaining question of interest, and my leaning at the moment is toward the 2010s. This terrific wine offers a persuasive case in point, offering an irresistible combination of fully ripe fruit, assertive but balanced tannins, exceptional freshness, and remarkable versatility for early enjoyment or long ageing. I’ve tasted several vintages of this high-quality, high-value wine, and none have measured up to this rendition. 92 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2012

Domaine Bachelet-Monnot, Maranges Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Fussière 2008 ($31, Vintage ’59 Imports): This domaine is destined to be known for Grand Cru whites from

holdings in Batard and Bienvenue Batard Montrachet, but it would be a bad mistake to overlook the carefully crafted, relatively affordable Pinots being turned out by Marc and Alexandre Bachelet. They make an unusually appealing Bourgogne Rouge that is very attractive in 2008, but for four dollars more, the clear choice is this Maranges 1er Cru, which is very expressive (especially in aromatic terms) but also admirably delicate and already impressively integrated. 90 Michael Franz Dec 7, 2010

Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2018 ($58, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Domaine Bart is an A-list producer. Of course, their Grand Cru Bonnes Mares and Charmes-Chambertin are stunning. But, if you are looking for something that does not require taking out a mortgage before purchasing, look to their array of wines from Marsannay, a sleepy village north of Gevrey-Chambertin. Here, and especially at Domaine Bart, you will find authentic wines filled with the savory Côte de Nuits character. The growers in Marsannay are applying for premier cru status for some of their vineyards. Clos du Roy is likely to be on that list. Bright and lively acidity balance Bart’s ripe and succulent 2018 Clos du Roy, keeping it fresh. The tannins are supple and mild, though paradoxically, the wine is structured, not soft. Dark cherry-like nuances marry nicely with earthy ones and finish on an attractive hint of bitterness. Juicy and long, this Marsannay is hard to resist now.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021

René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Longeroies Vieilles Vignes 2019 ($47):

Marsannay, almost a suburb of Dijon, is the northernmost appellation of the Côtes de Nuits. Usually, wines from Burgundy’s exalted Côtes de Nuits, think Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, or Vosne-Romanée, are frightfully expensive. Marsannay has not gotten the message — yet. They will. Especially within the upcoming few years as the decade-long process of identifying premier cru vineyards is finally codified. Bouvier, located in neighboring Gevery-Chambertin, is one of Marsannay’s top producers. Longeroies is on the short list to attaining premier cru status. Bouvier’s fragrant 2019 combines ripe dark fruit accented with spicy black pepper, all buttressed by racy acidity. Drink it this summer with meat off the grill if you must, but save a few bottles for the cellar because, in my experience, Bouvier’s wines develop magnificently with bottle age.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2024

Bruno Clair, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Longerois 2005 ($38, Vineyard Brands): Bruno Clair's wines from Marsannay, a less well-known village in the northern part of the Côtes de Nuits, are consistently fabulous and worth the price. There are no premier cru vineyards in the village and Clair keeps petitioning to have Longerois elevated. Judging from this wine, it deserves to be. A fabulous and classic nose is followed by earth and fruit intermingled. Firm tannins, excellent acid and balance complete a harmonious picture. This wine shows why, in Burgundy, you buy the producer, not the specific appellation. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Domaine Bruno Clair, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies 2007 ($40, Vineyard Brands): Across the board the wines of Bruno Clair were some of the most impressive I tasted in Marsannay. This 2007 Pinot Noir from 55-year-old vines was aged in a combination of new and used oak barrels. The color is a brilliant medium-deep ruby and the layered nose shows classic pinot aromatics of boiled beets, ripe berry and just a hint of oak. It has very good balancing acidity, ample fruit and a long finish with finesse. Lay this wine down for additional complexity and depth. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2014 ($49, Becky Wasserman Selection):

The producers in Marsannay have petitioned the authorities to elevate some of their vineyards, all of which now are lumped together and sold under the village name, to Premier Cru. Clos du Roy is a prime candidate for promotion as this wine demonstrates. Premier Cru quality in all but name, it is long and refined with a clear Côte de Nuits earthy character. Its polished tannins allow immediate enjoyment, but the balance suggests it will develop beautifully with bottle age. This is distinctive and authentic Côte de Nuits Burgundy at less than $50 a bottle, sadly a rarity these days.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2016

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($24, Louis Latour USA):

Marsannay, now practically a suburb of Dijon, is the northern most outpost of the Côte de Nuits. With no classified vineyards -- but deserving of some -- the village offers the best value for red wines from the entire Côte d’Or, in my opinion. Latour’s 2012 is simply marvelous, delivering bright fruit flavors atop a woodsy savory base all enrobed in mild tannins. This is an unbelievable bargain for the enjoyment it delivers. Try it with a roast chicken and sautéed mushrooms.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2015

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($37, Louis Latour, USA):

Wines from Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côte de Nuits, are finally getting the attention they deserve. French wine regulators are evaluating which vineyards within the Marsannay appellation will qualify for premier cru status. Once that happens, prices will accelerate even faster, much like what has happened since Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards received official premier cru classification. Even now, I’ve seen prices of Marsannay from well-regarded growers commanding prices of $60+. All of which explains why I’m so enthusiastic about this one from Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based negociant. Less prestigious appellations, like Marsannay, benefitted from the warmth of the 2019 vintage, which explains why this one has a healthy balance of ripe fruit and earthy herbal notes. The Latour style that brings out the acidity in the wines acts as a perfect balance, imbuing the wine with freshness and verve. Real Côte de Nuits Burgundy for under $40 is rare, so my advice is to stock up. It is remarkably approachable now.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2022

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($45, Louis Latour, USA):

Burgundy lovers have discovered the charms of Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côtes de Nuits. Prices have risen as a result and are poised to continue their climb because the village is in the process of having some vineyards certified as 1er Cru. So, now is the time to act by buying the luscious 2020s. And Latour’s is a good place to start. Bright red cherry-like notes complement herbal ones. Suave tannins make it easy to enjoy now. It displays real Côtes de Nuits character at a Côtes de Beaune price.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 21, 2023

Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) “Les Finottes” 2018 ($30):

Domaine Bart is a star producer in Marsannay. This house makes splendid Grand Crus, such as Bonnes-Mares and Chambertin Clos de Bèze that routinely sell for $200+ a bottle upon release. Their skill is also found in a bevy of single-vineyard wines from the village of Marsannay, the northern most village of the Côte de Nuits. There’s been an enormous leap in quality of Marsannay wines over the last decade, so that village is a good place to find wines that deliver more than the price suggests. Bart’s 2018 Les Finottes, both savory, fruity and finesse-filled, is one of those wines. It would be a fine choice for Thanksgiving. Bart is a name to remember. I would be happy to buy any of their Marsannay.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2020

Domaine Charles Audoin, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies 2011 ($36, Martine's Wines): Marsannay received appellation status only in 1987. Prior to that date, the wines were sold under the broader Bourgogne appellation. Growers in Marsannay have submitted an application to the French authorities to classify some vineyards as Premier Cru. Long considered one of the best sites in Marsannay, Les Longeroies is on most people’s short list to be elevated to Premier Cru status. Domaine Charles Audoin, a family owned and operated estate founded in 1972, is now run by Charles’ son, Cyril. Audoin’s Les Longeroies has structure and precision, befitting a Premier Cru, as well as a charm that makes it easy to enjoy now with a warming plate of coq au vin.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2015

René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies Vieilles Vignes 2012 ($31, Kermit Lynch):

Marsannay, sitting at the northern most boundary of the Côte d’Or, is another great appellation for authentic, well-priced Burgundy. Since Marsannay is not a prestigious appellation, many of its red wines are ready to drink soon after release. René Bouvier, one of the village’s star producers, bottles several single vineyard Marsannays including this stylish one from old vines (Vieilles Vignes). While not a fruit bomb, it has good concentration reflective of the low yields of the vintage. It reveals intriguing savory notes as it sits in the glass. Bright acidity makes it a good choice with a roast chicken and mushroom sauce.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2015

Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Grandes Vignes” 2013 ($30, Jeanne Maris de Champs Selection): Marsannay, an obscure appellation among the rarified sites in Côte de Nuits, is home to incredible values for Burgundy. I know “incredible value for Burgundy” is an oxymoron, which is why consumers should remember the name Marsannay, a tiny village, which is practically a suburb of Dijon. The appellation has no premier cru sites -- it only achieved village appellation status in the mid 1980s -- but the growers here highlight a variety of place names, such as Grandes Vignes, which produce distinctive wines. Domaine Bart is one of the over-achievers in this appellation. You could close your eyes and select one of his single-vineyard Marsannay and be happy. The 2013 Grandes Vignes has a charming rusticity, good depth and the elusive “flavor without weight” of Burgundy. Domaine Bart’s wines, even those from “minor” village appellations, develop and evolve beautifully with bottle age, so there’s no hurry to drink this one tonight. That said, if you’re roasting a chicken and serving it with sautéed mushrooms….
90 Michael Apstein Apr 5, 2016

Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

I taste at Domaine Bart every year because they are one of the top producers in Marsannay, the northern-most village of the Côte de Nuits. Wines from Marsannay remain under consumers’ radar, in part, because the village has no vineyards designated as premier cru, yet. That will change. For now, and even when that occurs, remember it is still producer, producer, producer. And Bart is certainly among those at the top. Bart produces a fabulous array of wines from individual vineyards within that village. This one, however, is a blend of various plots within the village. Though it reflects the warmth of the 2020 vintage, somehow Bart captured the necessary acidity to keep the boisterous fruitiness in check. With time in the glass, a glorious and intriguing savory spiciness emerges. Tannins are finely honed so drinking this one now is not a problem if you embrace the fruity aspect of red Burgundy. I would advise waiting a year or so to allow the savory elements to emerge. It is very hard to find red Burgundy of this caliber at this price. It will disappear from retailers’ shelves quickly.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 6, 2022

Domaine Charles Audoin, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Les Favieres” 2006 ($45, Martine’s Wines): Audoin produces flavorful Pinot Noir with nicely modulated oak and good structure. The color of this juicy 2006 Pinot is medium ruby and the nose shows plenty of cherry-berry aromas with a hint of toasted oak. The forward cherry-berry character follows through to the palate, supported by medium oak and good acidity. Drink now or hold for another few years for more complexity. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Closerie des Alisiers, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2007 ($28, Ideal Wines): This wine is for anyone who wants an introduction to red Burgundy--and to see how it differs from California Pinot Noir. Marsannay (actually Marsannay-la-Côte), basically a suburb of Dijon, is the most northern village of the Côte d’Or and formerly flew under most people’s radar. But over the last two decades savvy shoppers have discovered that it’s a good place for reasonably priced Burgundy. Classic Burgundian earthiness complements bright forward cherry-like fruitiness in this rendition. Mild smooth tannins allow for immediate enjoyment. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2010

Domaine Rene Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy Vieilles Vignes 2007 ($33, Elite Wine): Bouvier aged this 2007 Pinot Noir for 18 months in oak barrels, 30%

new wood. The mature vines in the Clos du Roy vineyard impart very good concentration and depth to the flavors. There’s up-front toasted oak in the nose, coupled with complex black cherry aromas that follow through to the flavors. The wine has structure, depth and good length; all at a pleasing price! 89 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($21, Louis Latour USA): With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, it’s always a delight to find authentic red Burgundy, especially from the revered Côte de Nuits, that is affordable. Marsannay, the most northern appellation of the Côte de Nuits, is practically a suburb of Dijon, resulting in a constant battle between vineyards and suburban housing. Fortunately, at least for now, good Marsannay can still be found at reasonable prices. Latour, one of the Burgundy’s top négociants, clearly has good sources for Marsannay because year in and year out theirs shows well. This 2014, with its juicy angularity and earthy flavors, has that savory component that makes red Burgundy unique. Not a packed or opulent Pinot Noir-based wine, it’s the real deal for people who want an introduction to Burgundy without taking out a second mortgage. Delightful now, I put it into a “roast chicken” category of wine.
89 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2016

Derey Freres, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Genelieres 2008 ($25, Encore Wine Imports): This youthful Marsannay rouge nicely illustrates why Pinot Noir is equally good early in its life or with some age -- just different. Derey’s 2008 was macerated, with punch downs and pump-overs, then aged in mostly once-used barrels to temper the new oak seasoning. The color is deep and rich, while the low intensity nose is ripe cherry-berry with traces of spice. It’s flavorful, juicy and has medium length. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Derey Frères, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Champs Perdrix 2009 ($29, Vins Divins): The northern most out post of the Côtes de Nuits, almost a suburb of Dijon, Marsannay is the place savvy consumers should look for authentic Burgundy. It received its own appellation status barely 25 years ago and authorities have still not awarded at vineyards premier cru status. In a ripe year, like 2009, the reds from Marsannay are particularly attractive since their drawback can be under ripeness in cooler years. With its combination of sweet and savory notes, this one is an authentic introduction to Burgundy in general and to the Cotes de Nuits, in particular. And it’s ready to enjoy now. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2012

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($17, Louis Latour, Inc.): Latour has fashioned a remarkable value with this simple Marsannay, a town not known for producing engaging red wines. Its bright fruit makes for a charming, easy to drink wine. Not to be missed. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Domaine Regis Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies 2008 ($30, Kermit Lynch): Regis Bouvier aged this 100% Pinot Noir between 12 and 16 months mostly in used oak barrels. The nose is open and forward with plenty of ripe cherry-berry scents. The medium flavors are fruity, well balanced, with just a hint of oak. The fruit lingers through a medium-long finish. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($23, Louis Latour Inc.): Latour has put significant effort into developing wines from a lesser known part of the Cote d'Or, such as Marsannay. This village, just north of Gevrey-Chambertin and practically a suburb of Dijon, received its own village appellation only in 1987 (prior to that time its red wines were sold as Bourgogne Rouge). Latour has had great success with this wine since at least the 2002 vintage (If you see any of the 2005 still available, grab it) and the 2006 is no exception. Bright red fruit flavors meld with a hint of earthiness to produce a charming, mid-weight ready-to-drink Burgundy. It would be a good choice for roast chicken or salmon. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2008

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($17, Louis Latour USA): The 2009 red Burgundies are sensational. The extra warmth of the vintage helped the “lesser” appellations, such as Marsannay, even more than the most famous crus, since wines from lesser sites can be thin and acidic in cooler years. Well, this 2009 Marsannay is a hit. With good ripeness and a charming strawberry-like fruitiness coupled with leafy notes, you know you are drinking real Burgundy. Despite Latour’s producing a consistently excellent wine from this village over the last decade, the price has barely budged because it’s still Marsannay, showing that the price of Burgundy is all too often based on the label, not the wine. So take advantage of it. It will transform a simple roast chicken. 88 Michael Apstein May 31, 2011

Dupont-Tisserandot, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($142, VOS Selections): The star of Dupont-Tisserandot's line-up--as a grand cru should be but often is not--this Mazis-Chambertin sings. It's clearly grand cru quality and a noticeable step up in every way from his premier cru wines. Broader and longer, the flavors spread out luxuriously over your palate. Clearly the selection was impeccable because there's not a hint of rot or stemminess that sometimes plagues the reds of that vintage. Hints of mushrooms, gaminess and tar are like condiments and don't overshadow the bright fruit flavors. It has incredible depth of flavor without heaviness. 96 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Maladière 2015 ($35):

This is the first vintage that Château de Chamirey decided to bottle wine from this 3.5-acre vineyard separately. Half went into this bottling, while the other half went into their village Mercurey blend. Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this 2015 tastes like a premier cru wine. An exceptionally glossy texture combined with bright red fruit flavors and a hint of earthiness makes it a delight to drink now.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2018

Maison Louis Latour, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($28):

The delicate ruby color of this impeccably aged Mercurey is impressive. The wine follows through with aromas and flavors suggesting delicate fraises-de-bois (wild strawberries), hints of cherry, and Burgundy’s characteristic earthiness. Still fresh, elegant and smooth on the palate, this succulent wine might be served with a beautifully roasted leg of lamb, or perhaps an elegant black bean and lentil stew.
93 Marguerite Thomas Jun 1, 2021

Maison Louis Latour, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($50, Louis Latour, USA):

Mercurey, a village just south of the Côte d’Or in the Côte Chalonnaise, is known primarily for red wines. In general, the warmth of 2020 growing season added ripeness to these wines complementing their stoney character. That explains the appeal of this Mercurey from Latour. There is great flesh on these bones. Dark cherry-like nuances persist into an exceptional finish. Its firmness will make it a lovely accompaniment to grilled meat this summer.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 21, 2023

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Monopole “La Framboisere” 2010 ($35, Frederick Wildman & Sons): By comparison to the entry-level Mercurey bottling, this shows more weight, depth of flavor, and length, with more wood influence too, but there’s excellent overall balance, with the ample fruit easily holding its own with the toasty, spicy wood notes. I re-tasted this 24 hours after opening it initially, and it remained remarkably fresh and focused over that span. 91 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Maison Louis Latour, Mercurey (Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France) 2015 ($26, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Though Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is best known for its reds, it’s a treasure trove of affordable Burgundy, both red and white. Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, rarely disappoints. The 2015 vintage is one of the best of the decade. That combination makes this wine a no-brainer. A firm, mineral edge, characteristic of the reds from Mercurey, balances and amplifies the wine’s bright cherry-like fruitiness. There’s a case in my cellar.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2020

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($30):

Mercurey, an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to well-priced authentic Burgundy, both red and white. In this era of stratospheric prices for Burgundies, consumers should search for wines from this village. Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in the Côte Chalonnaise, made a superb array of Mercurey wines in 2016. This one, a blend of roughly 10 vineyards they own, is remarkably suave for a village wine. With bright raspberry-like fruit and mild tannins, it is ready to drink now, but should developed nicely over the next several years.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2018

Domaine de Suremain, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($30): Domaine de Suremain is a top producer in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise where authentic Burgundy can be found at reasonable prices. The 2012 vintage was especially kind in there because it gave the wines a touch extra ripeness that balances the characteristic firmness of the region. Domaine de Suremain’s has good concentration and a charming rusticity. The interplay of cherry-like fruitiness and herbal earthiness remind you it’s real Burgundy -- the kind that’s perfect with a simply roasted chicken.
90 Michael Apstein May 13, 2014

Domaine de Suremain, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($28):

It gets more and more difficult to find affordable Burgundy. One needs to venture outside of the major villages of the Côte d’Or, or as in this case, to Mercury, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise. Here the fruity side of Pinot Noir takes on a lovely stony austerity -- a complete contrast to New World wine made from the variety. The Domaine de Suremain, one of Mercurey’s leading producers, rarely fails to deliver, which is why this “simple” village wine from 2013 is easy to recommend. Firmness balances and, indeed, enhances the wine’s bright cherry-like fruitiness. Mild tannins make it ideal for current consumption with anything from roasted salmon to a roast chicken. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2016

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($25, Frederick Wildman & Sons): This wine was very good in 2009, an indisputably great vintage for red wines in Burgundy, but when tasted side, the 2010 is still notably better. It shows excellent dimension and structure on a relatively lean frame, with lots of aroma and flavor but no extraneous weight. The tannins are notable but very well measured, and this will become even more complex over the next three or four years. 90 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Mercurey, a small town in the Côte Chalonnaise in Southern Burgundy, is an especially good place to look for values in 2015. The extra warmth of the vintage helped these less prestigious sites. Compared to Drouhin’s Rully, from a neighboring village in the Côte Chalonnaise, this Mercurey has more earthiness accompanying its bright fruitiness. The signature suave tannins and delicacy that marks the Drouhin style is quite apparent. It’s a steal!
90 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2018

Maison Louis Latour, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($26, Louis Latour USA):

Here’s another example of a well-priced Burgundy from the exceptional 2015 vintage. Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to fine Pinot Noir-based Burgundy. Latour’s delivers bright cherry-like fruitiness buttressed by a firm mineral edge characteristic of the wines from Mercurey. An appealing hint of cherry pit bitterness in the finish adds to its allure. This is an easy to recommend wine for current drinking. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2017

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($26, Wilson Daniels): Faiveley has substantial vineyards in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, just south of the Côte d'Or and known for both reds--from Pinot Noir--and whites--from Chardonnay. In the past, Faiveley's red wines from Mercurey were tough when young and needed time--not something most consumers were willing to give--for them to evolve. There's been a dramatic change with the 2006 vintage. Faiveley's village Mercurey is already approachable and juicy with raspberry-tinged fruit, mild tannins and wonderful balance. It's bargain priced Burgundy that shouldn't be missed. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 21, 2008

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “Clos Rochette” 2010 ($30, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Faiveley’s recent renaissance. It shows emergent aromas of dark cherries and red berries, and a very subtle layer of spicy oak joins those notes in the wine’s flavors, which are fresh and delicate but not without substance or length. Enjoyable now with white meats or other moderately flavorful foods, this nevertheless has sufficient headroom to develop additional softness and complexity with a few years of cellaring.
89 Michael Franz May 14, 2013

Joseph Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($26, Frederick Wildman): Mercurey, a village and appellation in the Cote Chalonnaise, is a fine source for well-priced authentic Burgundy. The high-quality Nuits-St. Georges-based négociant, Faiveley, has significant holdings in this part of Burgundy and is a fabulous source for the wines from Mercurey. The warmth of the 2009 vintage imparted a purity of ripe fruit to accompany the finely etched mineral-tinged flavors. To their credit, Faiveley has changed its style to make their wines more approachable when young. The change is noticeable in this Mercurey, which is a joy to drink now. This easy-to-recommend wine is a terrific introduction to real Burgundy. 89 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “La Framboisière” 2012 ($31, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Domaine Faiveley, a leading Burgundy estate and négociant, owns a substantial amount of choice vineyards in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise. This village wine from their vineyards, dubbed La Framboisière, is always one of their successes. The 2012, juicy and fruity, has the concentration you’d expect from a great vintage and the firm minerality that’s the hallmark of the Côte Chalonnaise. Perfect for current consumption, it’s also a fine introduction to the joys of red Burgundy.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 11, 2014

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($26, Wilson Daniels): Mercurey is often held out as a good option in red Burgundy for the bargain hunter. It seldom is because this village is famous for its coarse tannins, making most red Mercurey painful to drink when young. And generally not prestigious enough to take up valuable space in the cellar. Domaine Faiveley, which is no stranger to rough tannins, seems to have tamed the beast in this vintage. The tannins are firm but rather fine, allowing lovely red fruits and spice to emerge in this remarkably good village wine. Palate weight is exceptional for a Mercurey (these wines are often thin) and the silky tannins lend structure without muting the fruit. It finishes with length and elegance. And look at the price! 88 Robert Whitley Dec 2, 2008

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($27, Wilson Daniels): There’s been a noticeable change in style--for the better--in Faiveley’s wines since Erwan Faiveley took the reins a couple of years ago. The firm--sometimes hard--tannins that once made the wines difficult to enjoy when young are gone. The wines are still well structured, but now are accessible and enjoyable in their youth. The change is most apparent in their wines from Mercurey, a village in the less prestigious--at least compared to the Cote d’Or--Cote Chalonnaise. Subtle woodsy notes complement the fresh cherry-infused flavors that make this Pinot Noir-based wine so appealing. Supple tannins allow you to enjoy it now with roast chicken--or turkey. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2009

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($27, Wilson Daniels):

Like many young red wines from this Burgundy appellation, this 2008 Mercurey tastes tight and restrained. It has firm tannins and a spicy finish, but at first seems almost unyielding in the mid-plate. Yet with time in glass, or even better in decanter, it begins to open, and starts to become supple and sensuous. Definitely a candidate for cellaring, it in all probability will taste significantly more appealing in three to five years, when it also should deserve a higher score. 88 Paul Lukacs Dec 14, 2010

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($23, Frederick Wildman): It’s worth repeating that Faiveley, one of burgundy’s venerable négociants, has changed its style to make it’s wines glossier and more accessible when young. The change is perhaps most apparent in there lesser pedigree red wines, such as this Mercurey, which is a charming delight to drink now. That said, it’s not a New World fruit-focused Pinot Noir. Rather, it still retains the delicate earthy notes that complement strawberry-tinged nuances that makes red Burgundy unique. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2011

Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet” 2004 ($20, Wilson Daniels): This shows the color of ripe red cherries, and has pronounced cherry aromatics and flavor that verge almost on the richness of almonds or marzipan. This is not a demanding wine, nor one to squirrel away for decades. Instead, savor it now, preferably with a perfectly roasted chicken. 87 Marguerite Thomas Jan 16, 2007

Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Domaine de la Croix Jacquelot 2003 ($22, Wilson Daniels): I'll be spending Thanksgiving in Australia this year, but if I were Stateside and in the market for a moderately-priced wine that would match up nicely with everything on the table for that holiday, this would be the early leader. In light of its excellent balance and impressive overall character, it might also end up as the premier wine. Fresh and bright for a 2003 red Burgundy, it nevertheless shows real ripeness from this famously hot growing season. The flavors are pure and very pleasant, with red and black cherry both showing expressively and working very well in the forefront, with the lightest little touch of wood accenting the fruit from the background. 87 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2006

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roi 2010 ($50): The Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in Mercurey, owns about one-third of Clos du Roi, a 30-acre premier cru vineyard. They’ve divided their 10-acres into four distinct plots identified by different soils, which produce Pinot Noir that ripens at slightly different times. They harvest the parcels separately, vinify the wines from each parcel, and then blend them. The result is a superb Mercurey that shows the heights the wines from this village can attain when the winemaking team is compulsive and talented. It has the bright, red cherry-like flavors and the firmness you’d expect from the wines of Mercurey, but with more concentration. What really sets it apart from the pack is its elegance, length and complexity. There’s just more going on in the glass. It’s actually a great choice for steak now, although my experience with the wines from Château de Chamirey is that they develop beautifully with cellaring.
93 Michael Apstein May 13, 2014

Hugues et Yves de Suremain, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) "La Bondue" 1999 ($30, Robert Chadderdon Selections): A classic Burgundy, and yet from a village in the Côte Chalonnais rather than the Côte d'Or! Validates my belief that the producer and/or importer and the vintage are far more important than the appellation in Burgundy. This '99 Mercurey premier cru is perfectly balanced and at its peak. Fully developed earthy and herbal aromas combine with complex mushroomy, earthy flavors and a lingering finish. Enjoy this one now. 93 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey 1er Cru (Clos des Myglands, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($45, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd):

As I have reported recently, Faiveley has achieved an impressive turnaround in recent years, as these once hard and austere wines have become notably more generous and approachable. What is most admirable is that the general style has not swung to the other extreme--as pendulums are wont to do--but rather has settled at a balance point marked by outstanding proportionality and balance between openness and structure. This wine is relatively affordable in the context of fine Burgundy from a top vintage, yet it shows the breed of an excellent house working at the top of its game, with fresh flavors of both red and black cherries as well as subtle backnotes of spices, leather and toast. Ready to enjoy now with food, this will surely improve for another five years.
91 Michael Franz May 14, 2013

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Ruelles 2007 ($45, Wildman): You need to look hard to determine this wine is, in fact, a Mercurey 1er Cru because they have relegated that information to the back label, preferring to emphasize the Château de Chamirey, a top flight producer whose home is in that village. They own the 6.5-acre south-facing vineyard entirely, and make a superb Mercurey from it. The nicely exposed vineyard means the grapes achieve slightly better ripeness, and the hardness that is sometimes associated with red wines from Mercurey is not apparent. Fruit-forward, with raspberry tinged nuances, this wine shows the class of a premier cru vineyard. Enjoyable now, it should develop nicely over the next several years. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2009

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Ruelles 2011 ($44):

Château de Chamirey is one of the top producers in Mercurey, probably the best village in the Côte Chalonnaise for red wine. You can’t really go wrong with any of their wines. Les Ruelles, a premier cru vineyard owned exclusively by Château de Chamirey, is especially attractive in 2011. Beautifully aromatic with enchanting floral notes, it has an impeccable balance of muscle and grace with a hint of firmness in the finish. It would be an excellent choice for a beef bourguignon.
90 Michael Apstein May 6, 2014

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Myglands 2009 ($40, Frederick Wildman): As my WRO colleague Michael Apstein has been reporting for more than a

year, the 2009 vintage for reds in Burgundy are exceptionally good. One of the most important specific manifestations of the vintage’s quality is that appellations located some distance from the famous Côte d’Or produced wines of a quality level that could usually only be found at much higher prices on the Côte itself. Here’s a case in point showing fine color and density but with no hint of over-ripening. The flavors are deep and delicious, but there’s still an appealing freshness to the dark cherry fruit and a host of subtle savor undertones. 90 Michael Franz May 1, 2012

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2011 ($48): Showing more complexity and depth than Faiveley’s village Mercurey, this wine validates the French system of vineyard classification. It delivers more minerality and earthiness, imparting a seductive savory aspect to its charming dark fruit notes. Tannins are remarkably velvety, making it also a good choice for current consumption.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2013

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ruelles 2015 ($50):

This delightful wine shows that value in Burgundy is alive and well. Owned by the Devillard family, the Château de Chamirey is one of, if not THE, leading estates in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, just south of the Côte d’Or. Just as with wines from that famed strip of land, red wines from Mercurey must be made with Pinot Noir. This venerable estate covers almost 100 acres, of which roughly 40 percent are classified as premier cru. The just under 6.5-acres Clos des Ruelles Premier cru is a monopole, that is, Château de Chamirey owns it entirely in contrast to most vineyards in Burgundy, which are divided among multiple owners. The vineyard is composed of two pieces with slightly different exposures, which adds to the wine’s complexity. Even the youngest vines are 40+ years old. The combination of the old vines, complexity of the vineyard, stature of the vintage, and the talent of the producer explains the wonder of this mid-weight wine. Suave and seductive, this energetic wine wows with its depth and persistence, not brute force. Delicious now, its balance and stature suggest it will continue to develop over the next decade. Why it is still available at retail for this price is inexplicable to me.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 29, 2023

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2008 ($34, Frederick Wildman):

The vineyard, Clos des Myglands, is owned entirely by Faiveley, unusual in Burgundy where vineyards usually are fragmented by multiple owners. Also unusual is the stature of this wine, from a less prestigious village in Burgundy, not even in the Côte d’Or, but further south in the Côte Chalonnaise. But since prices of Burgundy are determined more by the pedigree of the locale and less by what’s in the bottle, this one is a great buy. The delicate--but persistent--red fruit flavors dance across the palate. It’s a nicely balanced package of sweet fruit, leafy qualities and firm minerality characteristic of the Cote Chalonnaise. Mild tannins than lend needed structure are not intrusive and allow enjoyment now. It’s got the real Burgundy character of flavor without weight. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2011

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2006 ($43, Wilson Daniels): With more oomph than their straight village Mercurey, Faiveley's Clos des Myglands is a terrific example of the kind of superb wines that come from this underrated area of Burgundy. The gorgeous, floral nose is followed by ripe red fruit flavors that coat the palate and persist throughout the finish. The stylistic changes at Faiveley have served this wine well. The tannins are finely honed and allow you to enjoy this wine now or over the next several years. But knowing how the Faiveley wines develop long term, there is no rush to drink it. Most people will balk at $40-plus for Mercurey, but this is no usual wine from that village. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 21, 2008

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2012 ($45, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Domaine Faiveley, though based in Nuits-St. Georges in the heart of the Côte d’Or, has always had a strong presence in Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise. Indeed, they own the entire Clos des Myglands, a Premier Cru vineyard, making it a monopole, a rarity in Burgundy where vineyard ownership is usually divided among many growers. For me the Clos des Myglands always delivers more than its appellation suggests, I suspect because Faiveley views it as a signature wine for them. The 2012 is no exception. It combines the bright red cherry-like fruitiness and the classic stony firmness of the Côte Chalonnaise. Quite intense, yet not heavy, it has a purity and refinement. This is another great introduction to the charms of red Burgundy that you can savor and enjoy this winter.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($39, Wildman): Mercurey, the largest village in the Cote Chalonnaise and larger than even the largest village in the Côte d'Or, remains an under-appreciated site for red Burgundy because much of it is lean and hard owing to its cooler climate (despite its more southern location). Which makes the wines from Château de Chamirey, one the village's leading producers, all the more enjoyable. You need to search the label to realize this is a wine from Mercurey because they have relegated the appellation to the back label, preferring to simplify the front with only the name, Chateau de Chamirey. But it takes no searching to realize this is a fine example of red Burgundy with its exuberance of bright red cherry flavors supported by mild tannins and a complementary earthiness. Enjoyable now, it will improve and develop over the next few years, but it will be hard to wait. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Framboisière” 2011 ($28, Frederick Wildman): Although based in the heart of the Côte d’Or in Nuits St. Georges, Domaine Faiveley has substantial holdings in Mercurey. They are the prime source for wines from this often overlooked part of Burgundy. This village Mercurey is overflowing with charming red fruit--dare I say raspberries--underpinned by a hint of stoniness characteristic of the Côte Chalonnaise. Its purity and freshness make it a perfect choice for current consumption.
89 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2013

Domaine Faiveley, Mercury Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2007 ($40, Wilson Daniels): Faiveley, one of Burgundy’s leading producers, has always had a focus in Mercury. They have substantial holdings there, including this premier cru vineyard, which they own in its entirety (a rarity in Burgundy where most vineyards have multiple owners). Faiveley’s more approachable new style under Erwan Faiveley leadership and the generally forward character of the red wines in 2007 serve them well with this wine. Bright, fragrant, cherry-like fruit is apparent, but underpinned by a lovely earthiness that adds complexity and allure. Unlike past years, the tannins are supple and polished, making it a lovely choice for current drinking. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2009

Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Les Clous 2002 ($30, Clicquot, Inc.): Although it is surprisingly tight for a village wine at this stage, you can easily see the potential of this classy wine. Its creamy flavors peek out and most importantly, linger. It's nicely balanced and should develop well over the next year. After tasting it again, I made a note to myself to buy more because it's a steal at this price. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 18, 2006

Domain Michel Caillot, Meursault la Barre Dessus (Burgundy, France) Clos Marguerite 2004 ($45, Chemin des Vins/Patrick Lesec Selections): With more stuffing and power than Caillot's Bourgogne Blanc, the elegance of this Meursault makes it more like a Premier Cru than a village wine. Luxuriously lush, it retains grace that's the hallmark of excellent white Burgundy. Looking at the prices of the 2005s makes me run for the 2004 white Burgundies. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007

Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Piece Sous le Bois 2016 ($60):

The vineyards of Blagny, a hamlet located high on the slope in Puligny-Montrachet, spread over both that village and the village of Meursault. So, it’s not surprising that the wines from Meursault-Blagny have a mineral-like resemblance to those from Puligny. Crisp and racy, this wine, from La Piece Sous le Bois (“the site below the woods”), combines the richness of Meursault with the elegance and precision of Puligny. Its persistent finish makes it all the more enjoyable to drink.
93 Michael Apstein May 7, 2019

Faiveley, Montagny (Burgundy, France) "Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet" 2004 ($20, Wilson Daniels): The light-hearted, delicate floral aromas are what one expects from this appellation. Because there was enough warmth in Burgundy during the summer of 2004 to crank up sugar levels in the fruit, this Montagny is somewhat more supple than usual, but it is still lively and refreshing. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jan 16, 2007

Domaine Pierre Morey, Monthelie (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($45, Wilson Daniels): Morey's '06 Monthelie is an exceptional value in red Burgundy given the quality the Domaine obtains from its several parcels on the hillsides surrounding this relatively obscure village. As with all the estate wines, the vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the wines are impeccable. The '06 Monthelie is fresh and delicate, showing a strawberry/raspberry nose, hints of spice and firm acidity, with supple tannins. It will doubtless fatten up and lengthen in the mouth with another three to five years of bottle age. 90 Robert Whitley Sep 9, 2008

Pierre Morey, Monthelie (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($40, Wilson Daniels): It's amazing how some producers can squeeze every drop of flavor from a 'simple' village wine. Monthelie, a little village off the beaten path in the Cote d'Or, has a reputation for producing ordinary wines. But Pierre Morey, who makes stellar white wines, coaxes red fruit flavors and a haunting earthiness from this Pinot Noir-based wine. Charming and juicy, this mid-weight wine should be enjoyed now, with roast chicken or salmon. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2009

Thierry & Pascale Matrot, Monthélie (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($32, Vineyard Brands): This wine shows the flowery and fragrant style of the red Burgundy spectrum as opposed to the earthy, leafy one. Full of bright strawberry-like flavors, it has a delicate and lacy quality that persists into its long finish. It captures the essence of the Pinot Noir grape in Burgundy -- flavor without weight. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Jacques Parent et Cie, Monthelie 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Champs Fulliot 2022 ($65, Jeanne-Marie de Champs):

Alongside Domaine Parent, run by Anne Parent and her sister Catherine, is a small négociant business, called Jacques Parent et Cie. The domaine is known best for their masterful array of Pommard that reflect the diversity and beauty of the appellation’s vineyards. Anne’s meticulousness that she puts into the domaine wines is readily apparent in the négociant bottlings. Take this suave 2022 Monthelie 1er Cru Les Champs Fulliot, a vineyard that is basically an extension of Volnay’s Clos des Chênes. Pure and long, it is concentrated without a trace of heaviness. It simultaneously dances and explodes on the palate. It is seductive to drink now to savor the rich panoply of fruit, but I suspect it will close within a couple of years only to reopen within additional complexity in a decade.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024

Bouchard Père & Fils, Monthélie 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Duresses 2002 ($30, Clicquot, Inc.): A domaine bottling, this wine is amazingly intense for a Monthélie. A great perfume, coupled with a long, sweet finish and supple tannins, means it's delightful now. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Domaine Bryczek, Morey Saint Denis (Burgundy, France) Clos Salon 2016 ($50, AP Imports):

The 2016 vintage in Burgundy was plagued by calamitous weather causing significantly reduced yields in many locales and more than normal variability in quality throughout the region. Some producers wound up making small amounts excellent wine, while others wound up with wines that were out of balance. Domaine Bryczek, located in Morey St. Denis, is in the former category. His Clos Salon, a village wine, tastes like many producers’ Premier Crus. A glossy texture enhances the combination of dark cherry fruitiness combined with a lovely earthiness. Showing particularly well now, I have no doubt it will develop more complexity with five to ten years in the cellar. It sings and is a great bargain for Burgundy.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2019

Domaine Lécheneaut, Morey St. Denis (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($80, Robert Kacher Selection): Domaine Lécheneaut is a name to remember for high quality Burgundy. About 25 years ago the sons, Vincent and Philippe, took the reigns from their father, Fernand, who founded the Domaine in 1950, and started to bottle their wines instead of selling them to a négociant. Tightly wound at this stage, this Morey St. Denis has all the glorious ripeness of the 2009 vintage buttressed by firm, yet polished tannins and excellent acidity. Like a volcano, the dark bitter black cherry signature note of that village’s wines slowly bubbles as it sits in the glass. If you’re planning to enjoy this authentic expression of Morey St. Denis now, it should be decanted an hour or so in advance. Otherwise, put it in the cellar for a decade. Lécheneaut’s Morey St. Denis shows that talented producers can make stunning wines from vineyards that carry only a village, and not premier cru, appellation. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2012

Lucien Le Moine, Morey St. Denis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Roche 2007 ($173): Many 2007 red Burgundies are entering the “drink-me-now” stage. Le Moine’s Clos de la Roche has the earthy, slightly mushroom nose, which to me is the hallmark of mature Burgundy. Intermingled with mature notes are vibrant and very pretty fruit elements. What separates a grand cru, such as Le Moine’s Clos de la Roche, from lesser appellations is not its power, but its incredible complexity and finesse. A lovely firmness and slight bitter cherry notes remind you this is Morey St. Denis—and an excellent one at that.
93 Michael Apstein May 1, 2012

Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Morey St. Denis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Faconnières 2014 ($105, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): I often wonder who is spending $100+ for a bottle of wine. I will not presume to judge whether this bottle, or any bottle, is worth that amount. What I will say is that Domaine Lignier-Michelot’s Morey St. Denis Les Faconnières is a captivating wine. The domaine, run by Virgile Lignier for about the last 15 years, produces exceptional wines, year in and year out. If you can’t afford this wine, and most of us can’t, remember the name of the domaine because it also produces Bourgogne Rouge and more affordable village wines. From the first whiff and then taste of the Les Faconnières, you know you’ve found something special. It has more substance, density and structure than many 2014 red Burgundies, probably because of the 70-year old vines. An over-achieving Premier Cru wine, it has glorious balance with the signature almost bitter black cherry notes of Morey St. Denis actually complementing its firm structure. This is another wine I cellar for another five to ten years. You will be rewarded.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2016

Joseph Drouhin, Morey-Saint-Denis (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($50):

Sourced from vineyards around the village of Morey, between Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, this aromatic wine shows all the great character of a Cote de Nuits Pinot Noir. Aged for 16 months in small Burgundian barrels, it has a medium-deep ruby color, black cherry and mint aromatics with a hint of leather, deeply structured flavors, impressions of spicy hard candy, subtle tannins, 13% alcohol and good length across a long complex finish.
91 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 27, 2011

Georges Duboeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Domaine Jean Descombes 2008 ($15): Here is a distinctive, richly textured Beaujolais with depth and finesse. The color is a deep purple ruby and the aromatics are pure ripe raspberries with a subtle earthy back note. This Morgon has body, texture and structure that are sustained through the long finish. Enjoy now or cellar for five to ten years. 93 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Château de Pizay, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($18, USA Wine Imports): A Beaujolais that can change your mind about Beaujolais, this is an elegant, graceful wine, with layered complexity and a supple, silky texture. It has nothing in common with “nouveau” or any of the simple-

tasting wines from the region that seem to flood store shelves each fall. It also has little in common with its more famous Burgundian neighbors from the Côte de Beaune or Nuits. One often reads that the best Beaujolais reds from “crus” like Morgon taste like Pinot-based red Burgundies. In my experience, that’s not true. These are not copy-cats, but rather wines with an identity (and an integrity) all their own. The Gamay grape may not be thought as “noble” as Pinot Noir, but especially for near-term drinking, this wine will knock the socks off most comparably-priced Pinots, whether from Burgundy or elsewhere. 92 Paul Lukacs Feb 22, 2011

Château des Jacques, Morgon (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Anyone who doubts that Beaujolais can excite needs to taste Château des Jacques’ 2015 trio of Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent, three of the 10 Beaujolais crus. The crus are 10 villages in the northern part of the region whose bedrock is either pink granite or a blue-black volcanic stone and whose wines are so distinctive that only the name of the village, not Beaujolais, appears on the label. Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, purchased Château des Jacques and its vineyards in Moulin-à-Vent in 1996 and subsequently has expanded by purchasing estates and vineyards in Morgon and Fleurie. With their focus of specific vineyard sites, Jadot is showing the world that Beaujolais can offer the same thrilling diversity using only one grape, Gamay, as the rest of Burgundy does with Pinot Noir. Though Jadot’s goal is to show the distinctiveness of individual vineyards in Beaujolais, their flagship wines are the ones from the villages themselves, according to Cyril Chirouze, Château des Jacques’ talented and energetic winemaker. (It’s a philosophy seen in Champagne where producers make distinctive vintage Champagne, but consider their non-vintage bottlings the standard bearer.) This Morgon, a blend of wines from several sites within the village, including the renown Côte du Py, is surprisingly lush for Morgan -- then the firm backbone chimes in. It’s a study in power and freshness. Great spice in the finish just adds to its allure.
92 Michael Apstein May 16, 2017

Stéphane Aviron, Morgon (Burgundy, France) Côte de Py 2016 ($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd):

Morgon, along with Moulin-à-Vent, are the two cru that produce the sturdiest wines that often need several years of bottle age to show their true beauty. The Côte de Py is an area within Morgon made of black volcanic soil that imparts an austere mineral-like quality to the wines. Aviron’s, while displaying this lovely deep minerality, has a beguiling and unexpected suaveness that makes it a delight to drink now. You can safely buy this one by the case, because judging from past vintages of his Morgon Côte de Py, it will develop beautifully with bottle age.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2018

Georges Duboeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine Jean Descombes 2010 ($16, WJ Deutsch):

Morgon is a Beaujolais of harmony and elegance, so nicely illustrated in this wine from the Domaine Jean Descombes. The color is a deep ruby, while the aromas are a little closed but offering clearly defined black cherry notes. Full richly textured flavors, layers of fruit, 13% alcohol, good acidity and nicely integrated tannins, distinguish this complex Cru Beaujolais. Additional aging will benefit the patient with greater complexity and depth of flavors. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 25, 2011

Jean-Paul Brun, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($22, Louis Dressner): The 2009 vintage in Beaujolais was fabulous, as it was in the rest of Burgundy for red wines. Brun is small, dedicated producer who extracts the unique character from each of his wines. This one from Morgon, one of the top crus of Beaujolais, has great minerality--you can almost taste the granitic soil. It’s firm, not hard, with plenty of flesh. Not at all grapey, it shows that high quality, exciting wine can come from this oft-maligned area. 91 Michael Apstein Jun 14, 2011

Château des Jacques, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($22, Kobrand): Here’s a hat trick--excellent producer, a top-notch village in Beaujolais, and a great year for red Burgundy. Now, with a couple of years of age, this Morgon is perfect for drinking and shows its real stuff. The tannins have mellowed and the concentrated earthy dark fruit flavors emerge clear and bright. This is real wine, not the tutti-fruiti Beaujolais that has become so prevalent in the marketplace. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2012

Chateau des Lumiere, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy) Cote du Py 2003 ($30, Kobrand): Cote du Py is a clos on the estate of Chateau des Lumiere, where the volcanic schist and granite composition of the soils express themselves in a powerful wine that is atypical of Beaujolais. There is a strong thread of minerality in this vintage despite the ripe and generous aspect of the wine. The typicity of the Morgon crus comes through in the luscious black-fruit character of this wine. Firm tannins suggest a year or two in the cellar will only improve the pleasure this super Beaujolais can deliver. 90 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2005

Georges DuBoeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) "Jean Descombes" 2009 ($14, WJ Deutsch): Georges DuBoeuf was the first négociant to highlight the source of the wine and give credit to the grower, such as Jean Descombes, who is one of Morgon’s finest. Always one of DuBoeuf’s best Beaujolais, the 2009 Morgon Jean Descombes is especially appealing and reflects the quality of the vintage. Not grapey and sweet, ripe black fruit flavors are balanced by earthy notes. Supple tannins provide support and backbone without impeding immediate enjoyment. This is marvelous Beaujolais that should convince skeptics that the region is a source of real wine--often at friendly prices. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 4, 2011

Georges Duboeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) 'Flower Label' 2009 ($13, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.): Characteristic Morgon beefy texture and weight, with lovely floral and forward berry aromas and delicious flavors, layered with a hint of cassis. This is a hearty, full bodied Beaujolais that is, in some ways, more typical Morgon than the Domaine Jean Descombes. It will improve with a few more years in bottle. 90 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Maison J. J. Vincent, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Charmes 2009 ($19, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Morgon, one of the 10 cru of Beaujolais, is known for wines with structure that frequently benefit from a year or two of bottle age. This Morgon has the ripeness reflective of the vintage and the firmness of the appellation, a perfect combination. It’s a seriously good wine that can be enjoyed now. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Maison J. J. Vincent, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Charmes 2010 ($19, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Vincent’s 2010 Morgon is as charming as their 2009 but in an entirely different way. Reflective of the 2010 vintage, it’s less fruity and more mineraly than their 2009. Its brightness and purity makes it equally enjoyable. The tannins are polished, not hard, so it’s a good choice for current consumption with a hearty dish, like lamb shanks. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Marcel Lapierre, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2005 ($25, Kermit Lynch): If you, like my misguided colleague, Michael Franz, think that [mass market; Ed.] Beaujolais always tastes simple and grapey, you owe it to yourself to sample a top cru Beaujolais such as this Morgon from one of the region's masters, Marcel Lapierre. Though light-bodied, the wine displays remarkable depth of flavor, with layered, complex flavors that culminate in a long, satisfying finish. There is nothing remotely simple about it. 90 Paul Lukacs Nov 21, 2006

Château des Jacques, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($22, Kobrand): Maison Louis Jadot, the Beaune-based Burgundy négociant, has always made an array of fine Beaujolais, from their Beaujolais-Villages up to the single-vineyard bottlings of Château des Jacques, the property they purchased in Moulin-à-Vent in the mid-1990s. The 2009 vintage in Beaujolais, similar to the remainder of Burgundy, produced great wines. And this is one of them. Ripe, but not grapey, smoky nuances balance the fresh red berry fruit flavors. It’s surprisingly supple for a young Morgon, which makes it a lovely choice this summer for grilled burgers. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2012

Domaine Marion Pral, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Les Charmes 2009 ($20, Bourgeois Selections): Morgon, one of the best of the ten crus of Beaujolais, has many unique and distinctive areas within it. Wines from its famed Côte de Py often have a hard edge when young whereas those from Les Charmes are, as the name implies, more charming. Domaine Pral’s is voluptuous, but with a firmness and vivacity that lends sufficient structure. The tannins are present, but subdued enough to allow you to chill the wine a touch on a hot summer day. Ripe black fruit notes and spice reflect the outstanding 2009 vintage, certainly the best in Beaujolais since 2005 and one of the top vintages in two decades. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Louis-Claude des Vignes, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Côte du Py 2006 ($27, Louis Dressner Selections): The Côte du Py is considered the finest slope in the commune of Morgon, one of the cru of Beaujolais. Its exposure and schist-filled soil impart a firmness to the wines that make them unique. Unlike most Beaujolais, wines from the Côte du Py, such as this one, need time to soften and allow their considerable charm to show. Also unlike most Beaujolais, there are no grapey flavors here. Rather, this serious wine delivers an earthy minerality along with black cherry notes and moderate tannins. If you opt to drink it now, give it plenty of air and pair it with robust food. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 17, 2009

Terres Dorees, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2007 ($21, Louis Dressner Selections): More wines like this one would restore Beaujolais' reputation as an area for fine wine. From Morgon, one of the 10 cru of Beaujolais, this wine speaks of minerals and earth, not the grapey flavors often associated with area. It has a lovely firmness that balances the sour cherry-like flavors. Although wines from Morgon can age and develop--and this one will--it is delightful now. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2008

Daniel Bouland, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2008 ($23, Peter Weygandt Selection): This is a surprisingly forward Morgan, one of the cru of Beaujolais that usually needs a few years to reveal its charms. But here, bright black and red cherry-like fruit flavors shine. Not a fruit bomb, a backbone of tannin and earthy notes in the finish provide impeccable balance and support. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2009

Georges Duboeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($14, WJ Deutsch): This is a firmer rendition of Beaujolais, with more black rather than red fruit flavors and less of a savory element. Minerality underpins its ripeness. You can almost feel the granite soil. It’s another Beaujolais with substance. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Potel Aviron, Morgon Côte du Py (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($19, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd):

This is the most complex and compelling of Stéphane Aviron’s impressive cru Beaujolais bottlings from 2010, with compelling savory and mineral accents on a core of dark berry fruit. This is already delicious, but it is clearly built to improve over time, and will surely develop in positive ways for a minimum of five years.
92 Michael Franz Jun 11, 2013

Potel Aviron, Moulin à Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($20): Contrary to the general notion that Beaujolais is mindless quaffing wine, this excellent rendering of Moulin à Vent displays real density, depth and power, but manages to do so without seeming chunky or coarse. The fruit shows both red and black tones, with more grip in the finish than Aviron’s other crus, though the additional structure is quite welcome, as the substantial fruit really needs the framing. Impressive!
91 Michael Franz Jun 11, 2013

Potel-Aviron, Moulin à Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($20, Wildman): Perfectly adequate if rather simple, this shows light cherry fruit with hints of red berries and a very subtle spicy undertone. There's plenty of acidity to enable this to retain freshness for another couple of years, by which time it may develop additional complexities. 83 Michael Franz May 22, 2007

Chateau des Jacques, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Rochegres 2003 ($30, Kobrand): Yields were way down -- aproximately half of normal -- in this very warm vintage that delivered exceptional color and concentration in the Beaujolais wines. Jadot's Chateau des Jacques produces superb single-vineyard crus Beaujolais just about every vintage, but in 2003 these wines are both extraordinary and rare. Only 500 cases of Clos de Rochegres Moulin-a-Vent were made. If you close your eyes you are in the Cote d'Or and thinking you're tasting a top premier cru Volnay or Pommard. The Rochegres offers lush, rich, ripe red fruit aromas, full body in the mouth and long, sleek tannins. In a million years of blind tastings even the most experienced enophiles would never peg this as Beaujolais. 94 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2005

Chateau des Jacques, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) La Roche 2003 ($30, Kobrand): Even more rare (300 cases produced) than the wonderful Moulin-a-Vent "Clos de Rochegres", the single-cru Clos La Roche is a dark, brooding Beaujolais with a seductively floral bouquet, ripe black fruit aromas and long, firm tannins. Not as generous at the moment as the Rochegres (from the same Chateau des Jacques estate owned by the Cote de Beaune negociant Maison Louis Jadot) but with a bright future indeed. This wine has the ability to improve in the cellar for several years to come. 92 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2005

Georges Duboeuf, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, France) Domaine des Rosiers 2009 ($17, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.):

Duboeuf barrel-aged about 15% of this single-vineyard wine, adding a textural note and an additional measure of seasoning. The color is a medium-deep ruby and the aromatics are full Gamay with ripe strawberry notes. This richly textured wine has power, body and good length. Hold for at least five more years when it should be at its optimum for drinking pleasure. 91 Gerald D. Boyd May 18, 2010

Joseph Drouhin, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2005 ($19, Dreyfus Ashby): For my money Moulin-a-Vent is the top "cru" of Beaujolais, consistently yielding wines of exceptional structure and character that even villages of the Cote d'Or must envy. This vintage produced a Beaujolais of depth, richness and texture, showing appealing black fruit characteristics and fine-grained tannins. 90 Robert Whitley Jun 20, 2006

Moulin-a-Vent is arguably the richest and most structured of the Beaujolais crus, a reality that is on full display in this excellent vintage. The 2015 Selection des Vignerons is a meaty red that shows nuances of dark cherry and plum, with chewy tannins and a floral perfume that blossoms after a bit of time in the glass.

Terres Dorees, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2007 ($27, Louis Dressner Selections): Moulin-a-Vent, along with Morgon, has the potential to produce the biggest and most complex wines in Beaujolais. This one is serious stuff, with plenty of minerality and earthiness supported by a welcome and surprising--for Beaujolais--firmness. A fine choice for hearty winter fare now, it undoubtedly will evolve and improve over the next decade. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2008

Potel-Aviron, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, France) 2005 ($20, Palm Bay Imports):

Young Nicolas Potel and Stephane Aviron have carved quite a reputation in a short time, combining their skills and passion to produce top-quality Beaujolais from many of the region's top crus. Their 2005 Moulin-a-Vent is a serious red wine that will improve in the cellar for up to five years, which is anything but typical for a Beaujolais. It shows good depth and length on the palate, with round, smooth tannins and a meaty body that gives it the oomph to stand up to summer grilling.

Georges DuBoeuf, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, France) 2004 ($13, WJ Deutsch): Though the 2005 rendition may be bumping it off, the 2004 DuBoeuf Moulin-a-Vent is still on many store shelves these days. Soft and fruity, with enough tannic backbone to provide structure, it delivers just what good Beaujolais should -- uncomplicated pleasure. To my mind, no red wine pairs better with cold meats -- whether put in sandwiches or eaten with a knife and fork -- than good cru Beaujolais. I enjoyed this wine with slices of leftover pork roast the other evening, a day after hosting a fairly lavish dinner party. We'd opened all sorts of fancy (and expensive) wines the night before -- aged Bordeaux and the like. In analytic terms, they certainly were more impressive. But they weren't any tastier. 88 Paul Lukacs Sep 19, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2006 ($21, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Everyone in the corps of wine writers seems to love to love

Beaujolais, which is a sentiment that I do not share, as I believe that there's almost always a Pinot from someplace that can do any job better than a Gamay-based wine. Occasionally I hit a wine that gives me pause, and this one had that effect. It shows very open, expressive aromas and flavors of red cherries that are vivid, pure and pleasingly sweet without being obvious or grapey. Substantial in feel and depth of flavor, I confess that this would be a great choice for a turkey dinner if you are considering another one of those before the year is out. 88 Michael Franz Nov 27, 2007

Joseph Drouhin, Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2007 ($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Moulin-a-Vent is one of the richest of the ten Grand Cru Beaujolais. Not quite up to the measure of a Côte de Beaune Burgundy, but a good expression of the Gamay grape. Medium purple-ruby in color, it has low level berry and spice aromas, medium tannins and fruit leading to a short dry finish. It lacks the substance and richness of classic Moulin-a-Vent Beaujolais. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 2, 2009

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) Clos des Londres 2009 ($100, Wilson Daniels):

Yes, you read the price correctly -- $100 for a bottle of Beaujolais. But to associate this wine with conventional image of Beaujolais -- a fruity easy-to-drink wine -- would be a terrible mistake. The wines from Moulin-à-Vent, though a village in the Beaujolais region, rightly stand apart from that region and carry their own appellation. I’ve have bottles of Moulin-à-Vent from this property when it was known (under a previous owner) as Château des Thorins that had developed gloriously with two decades of bottle age. Within the village of Moulin-à-Vent there are zones with distinct growing conditions, such as Le Champ de Cour, or this one, Clos des Londres, which produce distinctive and unique wines. By focusing on these individual sites, Château du Moulin-à-Vent shows the mosaic of the area -- a parcelization reminiscent of the Côte d’Or. The 2009 Clos des Londres has impeccable balance, combining the density and concentration of the vintage with the minerality of the site. Befitting a young wine with a great future, it has a marvelous firmness without being hard and a subtle black cherry-like bitterness in the finish. The tannins are glossy, not astringent. Clearly a wine for the cellar, it only slowly reveals its charms over a couple of hours in the glass. Is it a great wine? Yes. Is it worth $100? Only you and your banker can answer that.
95 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2014

Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This Moulin à Vent combines the best of Fleurie and Morgon. It’s remarkably fresh and approachable with juicy fruitiness and deep mineral-like flavors. You can almost taste the granite soil. It has less spice compared to the 2015 Château des Jacques Morgon, but silkier tannins. This is a marvelously complex and long wine with great finesse, reflecting the grandeur of the site and the vintage. Don’t miss it -- it will re-define your idea of wines from this region.
94 Michael Apstein May 16, 2017

Château des Jacques, Moulin-À-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Rochegres 2005 ($36, Kobrand):

Jadot, with the wines from their Château des Jacques property, is redefining Beaujolais. Although not the current vintage, the 2005 Château des Jacques Clos de Rochegres is still widely available at the retail level. Consumers should search for it because it shows the staggering potential of wines from this region, which is overlooked as a source of fine wine because consumers associate it only with Beaujolais Nouveau. With its 20 acres, Clos de Rochegres is the largest of the five unique vineyards that comprise Château des Jacques. Depending on the year, Jadot bottles a wine from some (or all) of the five vineyards. As with the rest of Burgundy, the 2005 vintage in Beaujolais was superb and this wine at four years of age has replaced much of its fruit profile with an engaging earthy minerality. Still ripe and lush, it has supple unobtrusive tannins and a lovely briary aspect. Neither rustic nor perfectly polished, it delivers a wonderful complexity and depth rarely seen in Beaujolais. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2009

Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($38, Wilson Daniels):

Similar to their 2009, Château du Moulin-À-Vent’s 2010 Moulin-à-Vent reflects the vintage’s cooler growing season. Fresher and more lively than their 2009, the 2010 has an uplifting sour cherry-like finish that begs for another sip. Still with the granitic edge and firm -- not hard -- tannins expected from top-notch Moulin-à-Vent, it’s more linear and less opulent compared to the 2009. Those who preferences run to a riper style wine will embrace the 2009. Wonderfully long and refined, the 2010 is easy to recommend to those who tastes run toward racier wines. Like the 2009, drink the 2010 with a hearty meal this fall or leave it alone in the cellar and watch magic unfold over the next five years.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2014

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) La Roche 2012 ($41, Vineyard Brands):

More and more producers in Beaujolais are treating the area, especially Moulin-à-Vent, like the rest of Burgundy -- as it deserves to be in my mind. That is, they are making wine from individual vineyards and labeling them as such. La Roche, for example, a prized vineyard just below the famous windmill that gives the area its name, has different soil, a slightly different elevation and exposure compared to Clos du Grand Carquelin, a vineyard literally across the road. Not surprisingly, the wines from these plots made by the same producer taste completely different. As good as Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair’s 2012 Moulin-à-Vent is, their La Roche is -- in a word -- better. It conveys a similar lovely granitic firmness, but has more elegance and length. It’s not more powerful; it’s just more captivating because of its complexity and texture.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015

Stéphane Aviron, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd):

Aviron’s Moulin-à-Vent dazzles with a paradoxical firmness and fleshiness. The tannins are fine, not hard or astringent. You can almost taste the granitic soil of this cru in this tightly wound wine. Uplifting brightness in the finish amplifies its appeal. It takes time in the glass to blossom so either decant it before serving, or better yet, put it in the cellar for a few years and his wines from the other crus.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2018

Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Grand Carquelin 2009 ($30): This wine redefines Beaujolais. Anyone who ever doubted that Beaujolais could be a truly grand wine needs to try it. The Clos de Grand Carquelin is one of the five distinct and non-contiguous parcels that comprises the Chateau des Jacques estate. Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s leading producers, purchased the Château des Jacques in 1996 and opted to use Burgundian--not traditional Beaujolais--winemaking techniques of destemming, long fermentation and wood aging. The wine opens with haunting floral aromas followed by a minerality that reflects the granite soil of the clos. Glossy tannins add structure and balance its substantial weight and spicy notes. Uncanny elegance and length makes you recheck the label because it’s hard to believe this is Beaujolais. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012 ($36, Vineyard Brands): Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, a top-notch producer based in Nuits St. Georges, has, like other Burgundy producers, expanded into Beaujolais. In 2012, he produced two captivating wines from Moulin-à-Vent, the best of appellation’s 10 crus. The 2012 Vieilles Vignes, which comes from a variety of parcels within Moulin-à-Vent, transmits the granitic character of the region with a deep earthy firmness. Lovely savory nuances and slightly bitter finish adds to the enjoyment. Drink it now with bold winter fare. This is about as far away as you can get from the tutti-fruity flavors associated with Beaujolais.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015

Potel-Aviron, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Vielles Vignes Cuvée Exceptionelle” 2005 ($26, Wildman): An exemplary Beaujolais, this offers the Gamay grape's characteristic fruity charm, but enhances it with much, much more: aromas and flavors that echo leather and spice, just the right note of oak, and beautiful balance. If you think Beaujolais is just a simple picnic wine, try this one. Its layered flavors and multi-faceted personality will prove a delightful surprise. 91 Paul Lukacs Feb 19, 2008

Château de Beauregard, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) "La Salomine" 2005 ($30): Joseph Burrier owns a small vineyard in the village of Moulin-à-Vent,

the village in Beaujolais that produces the region's most substantial wines. From it, he produces this serious wine that reflects the stature of the 2005 vintage in Beaujolais. Bright and dense, with exotic and mineral-like overtones, its tannins suggest cellaring it for a few years or enjoying it now with hearty wintertime fare. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($38, Wilson Daniels): Technically from Beaujolais, the wines from Moulin-à-Vent stand apart and have more in common with the rest of Burgundy because of the granitic soil of the appellation. This is a broad shouldered robust Moulin-à-Vent, reflective of the warmth and ideal growing conditions of the vintage. It’s a firm--almost chewy--wine with moderate, but polished, tannins that make it a terrific choice for a hearty fall meal as opposed to use as an aperitif. Given its harmony, it will develop nicely in the cellar for five to ten years, like other fine Burgundies.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2014

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) “Couvent des Thorins” 2012 ($28, Wilson Daniels):

Ever since the Parinet family purchased this iconic property in 2009, they have been making marvelous wine. They focus solely on wine from Moulin-à-Vent, one of the top crus of Beaujolais. Moulin-à-Vent is home to well-structured rich wines that often need years of bottle age -- these wines are as far away from insipidly fruity Beaujolais-Nouveau as you can get. Their Couvent des Thorins is the most accessible and approachable of their wines. Still, it is not the grapey, easy-to-gulp type of Beaujolais. Rather, it has a firmness that implies a serious wine -- which it is. You can almost taste the granitic soil. It would be an excellent choice for coq au vin this fall.
88 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2014

Domaine du Clos des Poulettes, Nuit Saint Georges 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2019 ($95):

In terms of appearance, this shows a translucent, deep ruby color. The bouquet offers high-toned aromas of crushed red raspberry and currant as well as a pungent citrus oil note. The palate gains depth, showing flavors of red fruits combined with cedar, resin and a subtle nutty note that feels to me like the nuttiness one would sense when biting into a fully ripe grape pip. The wine is elegantly proportioned, offering medium body and balanced acidity which carries the flavors into the long finish. This can be enjoyed young but should repay cellaring.
94 Andrew Holod Sep 12, 2023

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Nuits Saint Georges (Burgundy, France) "Les Lavières" Vielle Vigne 2002 ($48, Elite Wine Imports): Still all elbows and knees, this youngster needs a couple more years to settle down, but even now it shows grace and personality. Delicate on the palate, strawberries and other red fruits dominate, with a hint of earthiness as well. 90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 1, 2006

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Nuits Saint Georges (Burgundy, France) Premier Cru Les Damodes 2003 ($60, Elite Wines): With the sweetness of an unusually warm vintage and the charm that a well-made Nuits Saint Georges can possess, this is a Burgundy that is light in color and light on the palate, but one with a substantial aftertaste. It has a hint of cherries, plus other appetizing components reminiscent of smoke and almonds. If bang-for-buck is measured in terms of intensity, this wine falls short, but those who are partial to Burgundian delicacy will be satisfied. 88 Marguerite Thomas Apr 11, 2006

Jayer-Gilles, Nuits St. Georges (Burgundy, France) "Hauts-Poirets" 1999 ($90, Robert Kacher Selections): Here's a wine that shows the limitations of France's appellation dorigine contrôlée (AOC) system. From a non-classified vineyard in Nuits St George, Jayer-Gilles has fashioned an incredibly polished wine--one of the best Nuits St. Georges I have tasted--far surpassing most producers' premier cru. Silky and long with gamey, smoky flavors intertwined with fresh black fruit-like flavors, it's quintessential Burgundy. Who would imagine that a bottle of a village Nuits St. Georges wine could sell for $90? But who could imagine that one could be this good. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2006

Joseph Faiveley, Nuits St. Georges (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($54, Frederick Wildman):

Village wines from Burgundy frequently get lost between the Premier and Grand Crus that Burgundy aficionados search for and less expensive regional wines that serve as an introduction to the region. Wise consumers will not let Faiveley’s Nuits St. Georges slip through the cracks. Faiveley has managed to polish and add refinement without losing or obliterating the characteristic wildness of Nuits St. Georges. Enlivening acidity buttresses the ripeness of the vintage and imparts freshness. This wine, like many of the 2009 red Burgundies, is quite engaging now because of its opulence. Yet its balance suggests it will evolve and develop nicely with bottle age. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012

Domaine Faiveley, Nuits St. Georges (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($63, Wilson Daniels): Burgundy’s village wines, such as this one, are often overlooked because they are caught between the exalted Grand and Premier Crus and the “entry-level” regional wines. Admittedly many village wines are forgettable, but not this one. Its gorgeous nose is followed by black-fruited ripeness, earthiness and the ever so slight rusticity that makes wines from Nuits St. Georges so appealing. It has more polish, grace and length than many producers’ premier crus. Like many 2007 red Burgundies, it is seductive to drink now. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 6, 2009

Robert Chevillon, Nuits St. Georges (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($75, Kermit Lynch): Chevillon, one of the leading producers in Nuits-St.-Georges, has made a village wine that has more sophistication than most and suggests that he included some declassified premier cru juice. Attractive earthiness mixed with ripe black fruit and nicely integrated fine tannins give a charm not often seen in village Nuits-St.-Georges. Judging from Chevillon's track record, this wine will take on even more complexity with years in the bottle, although it's quite fine right now. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Jean Chauvenet, Nuits St. Georges (Burgundy, France) Les Vaucrains 2006 ($110, VOS Selections): Similar to Chauvenet's other wines, there's lots of evidence of new wood. But in contrast, this one is nicely balanced--perhaps because Les Vaucrains is one of the village's best premier cru vineyards. The alluring wild side of Nuits St. George is evident and adds a complementary note to the ripe black fruit flavors. The fine tannins are well integrated. Still, this is a wine that is more about power than finesse. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008

Jean Chauvenet, Nuits St. Georges (Burgundy, France) Rue de Chaux 2005 ($78, VOS Selections):

Although packed with lush fruit, aromas and flavors of new oak dominate this premier cru at this stage. The usual exotic, slightly wild edge found in wines from Nuits St. Georges remains in the background, waiting to emerge. Either drink it now and enjoy the power and creamy vanilla-scented flavors or cellar it for a few years hoping the oak becomes integrated with time.

Domaine de Perdrix, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Perdrix 2007 ($120, Wildman): Amaury Devillard, whose family owns this domaine, feels they were particularly successful with their red wines in 2007 because they waited until the last moment to harvest and made a severe selection, discarding as much as 75% of fruit from some vineyards. Their meticulousness shows in this wine from a virtual monopole (they own 99% of the vineyard). The ripe, charming red and black fruit notes characteristic of the 2007s reds are present, but with supporting structure than many reds from that vintage lack. It has good intensity, balance and a polish that complements the usual wildness of wines from Nuits St. Georges. This is definitely a 2007 red to put in the cellar even though it's captivating now, but because its structure combined with the reputation of the domaine insures it will develop beautifully. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Henri Gouges, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Porrets 2005 ($87, Vineyard Brands): Gouges owns the entirety of this clos, the best part of the Porrets vineyard. In 2005, he made a gorgeous wine from it. Firm yet ripe tannins, sweet black cherry-like fruit, bright acidity, and an alluring earthiness make this a quintessential young red Burgundy. Surprisingly lush with none of the rusticity often associated with wines from that village, it has an unexpected elegance. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2007

Joseph Faiveley, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Porêts 2009 ($74, Frederick Wildman): Faiveley has managed to imbue a wine from Nuits St. Georges with considerable elegant without obliterating the unique “wild” or unrefined aspect of that appellation. This is a more sophisticated expression with excellent balance and verve befitting a premier cru. It’s packed, as it should be considering the vintage, but has plenty of structure and should dissuade any skeptics that the 2009 vintage for red Burgundies is exceptional. It can be enjoyed now, but should develop gracefully over the next decade or two. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012

Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Damodes 2008 ($80, Robert Kacher Selection): This wine reminds us not to overlook the red Burgundies from the 2008 vintage, a year that was largely overshadowed by the ripe and lush wines of 2009. Talented producers, such as Lécheneaut, made red wines in 2008 with enough flesh to balance the acidic structure. And this is one of them. The location of the Les Damodes vineyard at the northern end of Nuits St. Georges bordering Vosne-Romanée explains the wine’s grace and elegance. Still, the subtle underlying rusticity characteristic of the wines from Nuits St. Georges remains apparent and adds an alluring charm. Precise and fresh, this gloriously complex wine shows the beauty of Burgundy. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2012

Château Gris (Bichot), Nuits-Saint Georges 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($130):

The 1er cru vineyard, Château Gris, takes its name from the 19th century castle the Earl of Lupé-Cholet built on the site after phylloxera destroyed the vines. Instead of the usual multi-colored tiles of Burgundian roofs, it had only slate tiles, giving arise to the nickname of Gris (grey). This monopole, owned by Bichot since 1978, covers 8.5 acres and is planted with both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but only the red wine from the site is classified as 1er cru. The 2018 is positively stunning. Far more elegant than you’d expect from Nuits-Saint Georges, it still conveys a touch of wildness for which the appellation is known. Long and finesse-filled, it dances on the palate. Chauvel believes that the terraced rows at different elevations in the vineyard allows for varying levels of ripeness of the grapes, imparting freshness to the wine. That likely explains its bright finish, which amplifies the wine’s charms.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2020

Domaine Faiveley, Nuits-Saint-Georges (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($60, Wilson Daniels): This important village in the Cotes de Nuits produces powerful, long-lived red Burgundies that are often difficult to approach at this stage. Not so Faiveley's '06, which signals a change in coopers for this well established domaine. Whether it is the barrel regimen or something else that has tamed the hard Nuits-Saint-Georges tannins, this new release from Faiveley is a stunning wine that expresses itself with the elegance and polish of a premier cru. The noses offers complex aromas of red and black fruits, spice and forest floor, supported by supple tannins and good balance between acidity and fruit. Drinkable now, but likely to improve if properly cellared over the next 10-15 years. 90 Robert Whitley Dec 2, 2008

Joseph Faiveley, Nuits-Saint-Georges (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($55, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Although this wine is rather tight and unyielding at the moment (in keeping with the classic profile of young wines from Nuits-Saint-Georges), it shows very appealing dark-toned fruit beneath the acidity, tannin and relatively light oak. Very well proportioned, this just needs time. 89+ Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Joseph Drouhin, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Cailles 2010 ($102, Dreyfus Ashby):

When I first tasted the 2010 vintage from barrel I was impressed with the structure and elegance of the vast majority of samples. This was a vintage, it seemed, that was built along classic lines, with impeccable balance between acid, tannin and fruit. I am no less impressed now that these wines are coming to the market almost two years later. Drouhin's Nuits-Saint-Georges from the Cailles vineyard is a suave pinot noir that doesn't lack for backbone. It exhibits aromas of strawberry and black cherry that will lengthen on the palate as the wine ages. It also shows hints of earthy minerality and spice. Nuits-Saint-Georges from a top vintage typically rounds into its best form near the 10-year-mark. Optimum for this wine should be from 2018-2024. 91 Robert Whitley Oct 29, 2013

Domaine Armelle & Bernard Rion, Nuits-St. George (Burgundy, France) "Les Lavieres" 2002 ($48, Elite Wines): What a sexy wine! The flavors echo dark cherries with an undertone of leather and brush, but the texture or mouthfeel is what proves so compelling. Adjectives like 'silky' or 'velvety' fail to do it justice, as it is a sensualist's delight to sip. There's sufficient tannin to ensure that it will age well, but it's delicious right now. 90 Paul Lukacs Aug 1, 2006

Domaine Faiveley, Nuits-St. Georges (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($60, Wilson Daniels): Faiveley, one of the great names in Burgundy, recently changed their top-level management with an eye to tweaking the style of its wines to make them more modern and approachable when young. The change is already apparent in the 2006 vintage and should make every serious Burgundy fan revisit Faiveley wines. Much more approachable and less austere than previous renditions, this village wine shows that the new team knows what it's doing. An earthy richness balanced by firmness -- not the searing tannins of previous Faiveley wines that took years to mellow -- makes this an excellent village wine. There's still plenty of extract and concentration, but just a bit more roundness and finesse at this stage. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008

Domaine Jean Chauvenet, Nuits-St.-George (Burgundy, France) 2001 ($29, Neal Rosenthal): Good producer, mediocre vintage. The one wine I tasted in this group that showed too much oakiness, a cardinal sin for Burgundy. This Nuits-St.-Georges, typical of its commune, is a big wine, but it lacks Burgundy's charm and finesse. More like a New World Pinot Noir. 86 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Louis Jadot, Pernand-Vergelesses (Burgundy, France) “Clos de la Croix de Pierre” 2010 ($35, Kobrand): Jadot’s Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre is always a fabulous value in white Burgundy because half of the wine comes from a premier cru vineyard, En Caradeux, yet the wine is labeled--and priced--as a village wine. The 2010 is creamy and lush, with a lively lemony finish. It’s a generous wine with excellent structure and the vivacity characteristic of the vintage. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2012

Domaine Rollin Pere & Fils, Pernand-Vergelesses (Burgundy, France) 2001 ($25, Neal Rosenthal): This 2001 village Burgundy proves what a good producer can do in an average vintage. Rollin makes tight, pure wines, with firm acidity and subtle, delicate flavors. Tart red fruits on the palate, with lots of charm and vivacity. Perhaps a touch too much acidity for some, but I love it! 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Louis Jadot, Pernand-Vergelesses (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($24, Kobrand): More tannic and riper than many of the other wines, a reflection of the 2003 vintage. A bit raw now, but has a concentrated black fruit finish suggesting that it needs a little more time. 87 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Mongeard-Mugneret, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Vergelesses 2005 ($46, Vineyard Brands): The Mongeard-Mugneret estate, located in Vosne Romanée in the Côte de Nuits, recently purchased a piece of this premier cru vineyard further south in the Côte de Beaune. They are off to a great start with this 2005, their first bottling. Silky and ripe, it is classic Mongeard-Mugneret style, which highlights delicacy and elegance, not over-extraction and size. Beautifully balanced with great length, it is one of the more affordable -- at least for Burgundy -- wines in this vintage. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Maison Louis Jadot, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Croix de Pierre 2011 ($39, Kobrand):

The 2011 vintage for red Burgundies will always be overshadowed on a vintage by the rich 2009 and racy 2010. But the chief advantage of the 2011s is that they are deliciously forward wines. Indeed, they will give more pleasure for drinking now than either the 2009s or 2010s. This Pernand-Vergelesses comes from a plot Jadot owns in the En Caradeux vineyard, which faces northeast and is a cooler site. The site explains the wine’s delicacy and fragrance. The emphasis here is on mineral-y notes with red fruit nuances in the background. The flavors dance on the palate. Those looking for robust New World Pinot Noir should look elsewhere. This is textbook Burgundy -- flavor without weight.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014

Domaine Parent, Pommard (Burgundy, France) Les Chaponnières 2016 ($144, A Jeanne-Marie des Champs Selection):

As enthusiastic as I am about Parent’s village wine, La Croix Blanche, Parent’s Les Chaponnières shows the glory of a premier cru. Although it’s a touch more powerful, it’s really the wine’s elegance and complexity that puts it into a different category. There’s more going on here without being overt. Iron-tinged notes and other mineral like nuances become apparent as the wine sits in the glass and opens. It delivers a beguiling array of black fruit and earth flavors, punctuated with an attractive bitter note in the finish. The Parent sisters clearly made great wines in a difficult year.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 17, 2018

Domaine Parent, Pommard (Burgundy, France) La Croix Blanche 2016 ($89, A Jeanne-Marie des Champs Selection):

To me the talents of a producer shine when they make great wine from less than great sites. Domaine Parent does that consistently, though they also make great wine from great sites, as their 2016 Les Chaponnières shows. Take this Pommard, for example, a village wine, not a premier cru. Most producers blend grapes from many vineyards to produce their village wines. Anne Parent, with runs the domaine with her sister, Catherine, opt to bottle this one separately because she thinks, though not a premier cru, it produces grapes a cut above the usual village vineyard. Indeed, Parent’s La Croix Blanche usually offers more interest and complexity than many producers’ premier crus. The 2016, a full-bodied wine -- it is Pommard, has amazing refinement. Fine tannins lend a luxurious feel to it. Though robust, it’s not heavy. Indeed, it has an invigorating lift in the finish. This is a premier cru masquerading as a village wine.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 17, 2018

Louis Jadot, Pommard (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($65, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):

Still youthful and tight four years after the vintage, this Pommard from Jadot speaks well for the quality that can be achieved from a village wine in Burgundy these days. Jadot, of course, is one of the top negociants and has a long and successful track record. This vintage shows notes of plum and black cherry, with firm tannins and an attractive note of earth on the finish. Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
93 Robert Whitley May 26, 2015

Domaine Parent, Pommard (Burgundy, France) La Croix Blanche 2012 ($70):

Though not the current release, consumers need to be aware of this wine since it is still available. Domaine Parent, clearly one of the top growers in Pommard, opts to bottle this village wine separately because Anne Parent, who runs the domaine with her sister, Catherine, believes it is distinctive. No argument here. I’ve always loved Parent’s La Croix Blanche because it is a premier cru masquerading as a village wine. What’s amazing about the 2012 is how approachable it is now. Wines from Pommard have a reputation for being burly and tough when young. Well, at 7 years of age, the tannins of this one have become silky and its fragrance and finesse have emerged. Muscular, yet elegant, it’s a delight to drink now, with a steak. And given the current stratospheric prices of Burgundy, it’s a bargain.
92 Michael Apstein May 7, 2019

Maison Louis Latour, Pommard (Burgundy, France) Epinots 2002 ($55, Louis Latour Inc.): With the impeding tidal wave of promotion for the 2005 red Burgundies and the inevitable rising prices it will bring, now is a good time to look for remaining stocks from the superb 2002 vintage.

Latour's reds have frequently taken a back seat to their superb whites, although since 1999 that has been changing. This wine, from one of the best vineyards, Epenots, in the village of Pommard is powerful and ripe yet balanced by a tautness of youth. Delicious now as an example of young red Burgundy, its balance and structure suggest it will evolve beautifully over the next decade. It reminds me of what Louis Latour once told me about wine, "Great wines always taste good regardless of their age." 92 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2007

Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux, Pommard (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2009 ($70, Vintage ’59 Imports): Ripe and rich but nevertheless fresh and fine, this wine shows the uncanny

dimension and versatility that can arise from the combination of a commune like Pommard, a vintner like Jean-Michel Gaunoux, and an exceptional vintage like 2009. The fruit is delicate and only moderately weighty, but still shows very generous flavors that tail off slowly and symmetrically in the wine’s finish. This will continue to gain complexity for at least another four or five years. 91 Michael Franz Jan 29, 2013

Domaine Joseph Voillot, Pommard (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2011 ($69, Vintage '59):

Voillot’s 2011s have turned out beautifully, showing good near-term accessibility but also sufficient structure to develop positive characteristics over the longer term. This old vine bottling from Pommard shows lifted aromatics that include a lovely floral topnote, leading to moderately robust flavors marked by red fruit notes with accents of damp earth and spices. Fresh and focused, but already easy to enjoy with food.
91 Michael Franz Jan 14, 2014

Domaine Parent, Pommard (Burgundy, France) “La Croix Blanche” 2014 ($71, Jeanne Marie des Champs Selection):

There could be a more reliable producer of Pommard than Domaine Parent, but I doubt it. If you want to experience the wines of this famed Burgundian village, Parent is the place to start. Their 2014s are stunning -- a term reserved more for the whites of that vintage than for the reds. But this is Burgundy, so generalizations are difficult. Make no mistake, Domaine Parent’s 2014 Pommards are thrilling young wines. La Croix Blanche is a vineyard classified as a village wine, not a premier cru, though you’d be excused for thinking it falls into the latter category after tasting it. Anne Parent says she opts to bottle it separately every year because she thinks its quality lies between village and premier cru appellation. She alters her winemaking accordingly with a slightly longer maceration and barrel aging. The 2014 is marvelous, with a tension between fruitiness and savory minerality. Suave tannins almost hide its power. It’s a great choice for the cellar.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 5, 2016

Domaine du Pavillon (Bichot), Pommard (Burgundy, France) “Clos des Ursulines” 2018 ($55):

Unlike Bordeaux, most Burgundy vineyards are divided among multiple owners, which explains why the consumer can see multiple bottlings of Pommard Epenots, for example. By contrast, Clos des Ursulines, a nearly 10-acre vineyard located in the southeast part of the village, is owned entirely by the Domaine du Pavillon. It’s what the Burgundians call a monopole. The 2018 is muscular with remarkable suaveness for a wine from Pommard, which gives real elegance to its burly frame. An excellent village wine — and bargain-priced for what it is.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2020

Joseph Drouhin, Pommard (Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($50, Dreyfus Ashby):

It's not every day I would recommend a village wine from Burgundy's Cote de Beaune at this price, but the vintage was exceptional and so is Drouhin's Pommard from this very good year. The nose is well developed and highly perfumed, and on the palate the wines shows good persistence of black cherry fruit, a firm structure and hints of spice. It's very tight at this writing, but the depth is there. This wine has outstanding potential and will begin to reveal its subtle complexities with another year or two under cork. 90 Robert Whitley Sep 20, 2011

Maison Drouhin, Pommard (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($43, Dreyfus Ashby): The denser, spicier, black fruit component makes this a delicious village wine and highlights the difference between it and the more delicate, red fruit-dominated wines of Beaune 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Joseph Drouhin, Pommard (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($50): Pommard is the one of the leading village wines of the Cote de Beaune. This wine was aged in French oak barrels, 20% new wood, for 15 months, racked and then fined with egg whites prior to bottling. It has a bright medium ruby color, deep boiled tea, rose petal and black cherry aromatics, richly textured fruity flavors with full refined tannins, hints of exotic spice, 13% alcohol and very good length. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 27, 2011

Joseph Drouhin, Pommard (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($45, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This very well-made village wine did nothing but improve for the 48 hours over which I scrutinized it, suggesting that it may well improve enough if aged to merit an even higher score. As things stand, it shows both the delicacy that one expects from Pommard Pinot but also more depth and dimension than one would usually expect from a straight village bottling. Already quite well integrated, it just needs time to unwind. 89 Michael Franz Dec 7, 2010

Shaps & Roucher-Sarrazin, Pommard (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($35, The Country Vintner): This is a very attractive price for a high-quality Pommard from the short crop produced in 2003. It features fruit that is ample in its ripeness but also pure in character, with tannins and oak that are impressively symmetrical in relation to the core of fruit. Supple and ready to enjoy, it will nevertheless become even more nuanced over the next few years. 88 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Joseph Voillot, Pommard 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Pèzerolles 2011 ($120, Vintage ’59 Imports):

This supremely delicate and tasteful wine has at least two lessons to teach: Joseph Voillot is one of the best growers and winemakers in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, and 2011 has produced some gorgeous wines that should not be eclipsed by the two remarkable vintages that preceded it. Voillot’s “Le Pez” 2011 shows much more aroma and flavor than one would expect from a conspicuously light-colored wine, and indeed the only thing accurately conveyed by the wine’s appearance is that it wasn’t over-extracted from an excessively aggressive maceration. The fruit component recalls red cherries above all, though there are also hints of cranberries as well black cherries. Subtle spice and toast notes -- as well as nascent minerality -- lend complexity without obscuring the fruit, which is fully ripe but also quite bright. The wine’s excellent balance and freshness presage a very long period of development before it reaches its apogee, a process that will take a full decade but be well worth all of the patience you can muster.
94 Michael Franz Feb 11, 2014

Domaine Faiveley, Pommard 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Rugiens 2010 ($90, Frederick Wildman & Sons): A complete, compelling wine, this shows terrific intensity and depth of flavor, yet somehow seems as delicate as it is powerful. Dark cherry fruit is accented with hints of fresh meat, wild mushrooms, and woodsmoke, with wood and grape tannins that lend appropriate grip without any astringency. 93 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Domaine Joseph Voillot, Pommard 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Pèzerolles 2011 ($120, Vintage '59):

One of the finest wines from Pommard that I’ve tasted from the 2011 vintage, this shows excellent depth of flavor but also very serious structure that will enable it to improve for at least a decade in a cool cellar. Concentrated but still rather taut, with fresh acidity and abundant grape and wood tannins, this features dark cherry fruit notes with balanced oak edging and nascent suggestions of wild mushrooms and crushed-rock minerality. Symmetrically proportioned and tastefully styled.
93 Michael Franz Jan 14, 2014

Nicolas Potel, Pommard 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Pezerolles 2002 ($55, Frederick Wildman): Explosively rich, lush and long, it's hard not to drink this one now. But I'm sure that cellaring it will pay dividends in the future. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Maison Louis Latour, Pommard 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Epenots 2002 ($50, Louis Latour, Inc.): Latour owns a small portion of this vineyard and combines his grapes with others to make this appealing wine. Plumper than his Beaune Vignes Franches--in keeping with the character of Pommard--it's juicy and supple. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Epenots 2014 ($140, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Domaine Parent, a top producer based in Pommard, has made a great array of wines in 2014. While many 2014 reds are forward and charming, Parent’s Les Epenots has structure and balance that will reward years of cellaring. A blend of grapes from both Les Grands Epenots and Les Petites Epenots, it has the power you’d expect from Pommard and grace more usually associated with Volnay. It’s long and mineraly. In short, a captivating young wine. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2016

Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chanlis 2012 ($130, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Parent, currently run by Anne and her sister Catherine Parent, is one of the finest domaines in Pommard. Indeed, this Premier Cru and another one from the domaine, Les Argillières, are a lesson in the wines of Pommard, showing the diversity of the wines from that village. Les Chanlis, bordering Volnay has an elegance and delicacy not usually found in young Pommard. That said, it has structure and depth, reflecting the grandeur of the 2012 vintage. Floral and rich and showing very well now, this wine is still best left in the cellar for a few years. Judging from my experience with Parent’s wines, your patience will be rewarded.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Argillières 2012 ($130, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): As the name of the vineyard suggests, there’s lots of clay in the soil, which explains the weight and density of the wine. And given its ferrous nuances, there’s likely to be iron in the soil as well. This wine has the weight, power and dark fruit qualities I associate with young, fine Pommard and stands in clear relief to Parent’s Pommard Les Chanlis, which lies at the other end of the appellation, both geographically and stylistically. This beautifully structured and balanced wine from the excellent 2012 vintage needs years -- or a decade -- in the cellar to unfold and blossom.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Château-Fuissé / J. J. Vincent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012 ($70, Frederick Wildman): You might take a look at the price tag of this wine and ask, “Well, why shouldn’t I buy a bottle of Meursault if I need to shell out seventy bucks?”

My answer would be, “Well, because this is a more complex and complete wine than the great majority of $70 bottlings of Meursault.” J. J. Vincent is the top producer in Pouilly-Fuissé, which is in turn the top village in the entire Mâcon area in southern Burgundy, and this killer wine was made from 30 to 70 year-old vines on the estate. The Chardonnay juice was then treated to extended ageing in small oak barrels, and the resulting wine is very generous but also impressively detailed and precise. The rich fruit is very nearly full-bodied and recalls golden apples and ripe peaches, but there’s also a bright citrus fruit edge to the wine that prevents it from seeming heavy. Oak is notable but restrained, lending a subtle whiff of toast and a touch of tannin that provides welcome definition to the ample fruit flavors. This will certainly hold for another few years, but whereas I’d age this wine when made from a taut vintage like 2008 or 2010, this 2012 is basically perfect right now. If you see the 2013 vintage as opposed to this 2012, snap it up--it is also delicious.
93 Michael Franz Mar 1, 2016

Maison Vincent Girardin, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2006 ($55, Vineyard Brands): With the justifiable excitement over the white Burgundies from the 2007 and 2008 vintages, it is understandable that previous vintages tend to be forgotten. But many from older vintages are still available, and some, like this one, allow you to see how even a village wine from leading producers develops and improves with bottle age. Since Puligny-Montrachet is Burgundy’s most prestigious white wine village, some bottlings depend more on the label than the contents for their appeal. Not this one. Its vibrancy seems to amplify the underlying stony smoky elements. The wine impresses with grace, harmony and incredible length, not just power. Its purity and refinement justifies the reputation of the village. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2010

Château du Basty, Régnié (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2006 ($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection/ Country Vintner): A delicious cru Beaujolais, this wine offers a sumptuous bouquet followed by enticing flavors reminiscent of raspberries and cherries, with a hint of black pepper and spice in a long, lingering finish. If the only Beaujolais you know is Nouveau, a wine like this will open eyes and change minds. It's substantial, and seductive. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 31, 2009

Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Richebourg (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($1,045, Wilson-Daniels): An extremely savory wine, which starts off with pomegranate and dark cherry but finishes with intense salted licorice and noticeable oak notes. There's an interesting hint of blood-orange peel in the aroma, and the whole character of this wine just screams “cellar me.” DRC Richebourg veterans claim the wine is not usually this elegant, so consider that if you're a frequent buyer. 97 W. Blake Gray Mar 8, 2011

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Richebourg (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($1,350, Wilson Daniels): The 2004 DRC Richebourg, as usual, is the powerhouse wine in the DRC lineup! It has lovely, opulent, fresh black and red fruit aromas and flavors. It's a big, rich, meaty wine that would be wonderful with a side of beef. The '04 Richebourg is clearly the most 'in-your-face' and fullest-bodied of the DRC Burgundies, but without the linearity and elegance of the La Tache and Grands Échézeaux. 94 Ed McCarthy Mar 6, 2007

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Conti (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($3,800, Wilson Daniels): Romanée-Conti has the distinction of usually being the world's most expensive wine upon release - that is, if you can find it. Yes, it is a great wine, and it lives up to its reputation. Its price is another matter. The 2004 has powerful, exotic, spicy aromas, definitely one of its trademarks. Nothing shy about this showy, complex wine! It has very concentrated, dark fruit flavors, a result of the very low yields from its old vines. It is a very hedonistic, seductive wine that just grows and grows in the glass. I'm sure that both the '04 Romanée-Conti and La Tache will last for at least 50 years. Which is the better wine? It really depends on your personal preference. I generally prefer the elegant La Tache to the flamboyant Romanée-Conti. 98 Ed McCarthy Mar 6, 2007

Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Romanée-Conti (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($3,725, Wilson-Daniels): Look, this is a good-to-great wine. And it might get better: DRC veterans talked about how this was an unusually powerful version. I wouldn't open it now: It's fairly oaky and that sensation gets stronger with air. But there are plenty of other things going on: dark cherry, wood smoke, forest floor, pomegranate, baking spices. It's the most intense wine in the lineup, the most famous wine in the lineup, and the most expensive wine in the world. When I left the tasting, it was the wine that the distributors were sneaking back for a last sip of. Yet somehow that 94-point score feels low. I have to call it as I tasted it: It's a good-to-great wine, but in 2008, it's not the star of the lineup. Yet to evaluate it on value is ridiculous: even if it were a 100-point wine, it still costs about the same as a decent used American car. Most people know which of those two items they'd rather spend their money on. 94 W. Blake Gray Mar 8, 2011

Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Romanée-St.-Vivant (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($1,070, Wilson-Daniels): The RSV's aroma is so delicate -- raspberry, some oak, mushrooms -- that its savory attack in the mouth comes as a shock. The primary flavor is raspberry, but it's so tangy, and the smoked meat note is so strong, that it reminded me of raspberries left in a smokehouse surrounded by pork ribs. Noticeable tannins suggest that it will reward long cellaring. 94 W. Blake Gray Mar 8, 2011

Domaine de la Romanée-Cont, Romanée-St.-Vivant (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($800, Wilson Daniels):

It's quite amazing how different the Romanée-St.-Vivant is from Grands Échézeaux and all of the other DRC red Burgundies, even though the vineyards lie so close to each other. The '04 Romanée-St.-Vivant is darker in color than the Grands Échézeaux, but without its purity of flavor or raciness. Rather, the '04 Romanée-St.-Vivant is chunkier, with grainy tannins; it is not as ready to drink as the two '04 DRC Échézeaux wines. It is a rich, warm wine, with more blue and black fruit flavors than red, and it needs time to evolve. 92 Ed McCarthy Mar 6, 2007

Domaine de la Folie, Rully (Burgundy, France) Clos de Bellecroix “Cuvée Marey” 2006 ($36, Vintage '59 Imports): This domaine consistently turns out some of the best wines of the Côte Chalonnaise. This lovely Pinot shows fruit that is fully ripe but not at all obvious, with real delicacy and class but surprising depth and length for a light- to medium-bodied wine. Subtle accent notes of wild mushrooms, smoke and autumn leaves are very appealing, and this will pair up beautifully with dishes based on duck, pork or veal. 90 Michael Franz Sep 29, 2009

Girardin, Rully (Burgundy, France) "Vieilles Vignes" 2005 ($26, Vineyard Brands): In the era of escalating prices for Burgundy, wines from lesser-known villages, such as Rully, are an excellent choice. This unusually ripe (for Rully) wine will have tremendous appeal because of the combination of bright forward fruitiness and minerality. Its rounder edges mean it's enjoyable now and not meant for long-term aging. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($23):

After tasting this lovely Rully, a word Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson once used to describe a wine sprang to mind: “Delish!” Fresh and juicy, there’s not a hint of over-ripeness in mid-weight red. A hint of earthiness adds intrigue to this well-proportioned ready-to-drink village wine. Roast chicken anyone?
90 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2018

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($22, Dreyfus Ashby & Co): Warmer years like 2012 or 2009 benefit Burgundy appellations, such as Rully, in the Côte Chalonnaise whose wines can often come across as lean in cooler vintages. Drouhin’s 2012 Rully has plenty of ripe juicy red fruit flavors to balance the stony firmness you’d expect from the wines of this appellation. Its great depth and the hallmark Drouhin elegance makes it easy to recommend for current consumption. Try it with a roast chicken tonight.
89 Michael Apstein May 13, 2014

Domaine Jean Claude Bachelet et Fils, Saint-Aubin (Burgundy, France) Derriere la Tour 2007 ($40, Elite Wine & Wine Warehouse): This wine underwent a traditional fermentation, followed by two months “rest” in steel tanks and then 22 months in oak. The result is a deeply structured Pinot Noir with lovely rose accents, spice and refined tannins. Closed in now, there is an underlying richness and promise that this wine will develop nicely with more time in the bottle. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Domaine Lamay-Pillot, Saint-Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Castets 2007 ($24, ViniFrance Imports): The average age of the Pinot Noir vines for this juicy wine is 45 years and the wine was aged mostly in once-used oak barrels, 10% new oak. It has an attractive, deep ruby color, layered black cherry and dark plum aromas and flavors, with an earthy back note. Good supporting tannins, fruit and length follow through to the medium finish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Henri Prudhon et Fils, Saint-Aubin (Burgundy, France) Cuvée les Rouges Gorges 2007 ($32, Rosenthal Wine Merchant): A blend of three vineyards, the wine was aged for 18 months in oak. The color is a bright medium-deep ruby and the aromatics are forward with floral and spicy notes. Richly textured with full tannins and good acidity, there is lots of berry fruit, some spice and good length. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Roux Pere et Fils, Saint-Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Perrieres 2007 ($39): Stainless steel fermented, then aged in oak barrels for 14 months, this Pinot Noir has depth and length, with floral and spice notes in the aroma and on the palate. The wine finishes with big tannins over plenty of fruit. Needs time. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Domaine des Margotieres, Saint-Romain (Burgundy, Francs) "Sous Roche" 2002 ($27, Neal Rosenthal): Who would have thought that a simple village Burgundy from unheralded Saint-Romain would be one of the two highest-rated wines in my recent value-Burgundy tasting? Ah, but the vintage is 2002 -- definitely a factor. This Saint-Romain is a charmer, with exuberant fresh red fruit, spice, herbs, and floral aromas combined with a fabulously delicate, tight expression of red fruit and herbal flavors in the mouth, and a long finish of tart black cherries. An exciting wine, just about as good as village Burgundies get. 93 Ed McCarthy Sep 19, 2006

Maison Louis Latour, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($45, Louis Latour, USA):

This Santenay is just one example of the great success Latour had with their village wines in 2020. Characteristic of the vintage, it has good depth that augments its charm. Supple, fresh, and long, it is a delight now — and refined for a village Santenay. These days you rarely find this character and quality in Burgundy at this price.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 21, 2023

Maison Louis Jadot, Santenay (Burgundy, France) Clos des Gatsulards 2020 ($51, Kobrand):

Domaine Gagey in the rectangle at the bottom of the label means that the Gagey family, the longtime directors of Maison Jadot, owns the property. So, in essence, this is an estate wine as opposed to a négociant wine for which Jadot would have purchased the grapes from another grower. The potential advantages of an estate wine include managing the vineyard yourself and determining exactly when to harvest and press the grapes. The stature and complexity of this village wine — more exciting than many producers’ Premier Cru — reflects those advantages. Here is a marvelous mixture of red fruit notes, spice, and other savory elements. Jadot has deftly added a touch of elegance to the charming rusticity found in wines from Santenay. Even with the heat of the 2020 growing season, this wine retains grace and finesse, so, embrace for those qualities not sheer power. This mid-weight well-priced beauty is a reminder to focus on the producer rather than worry about the pedigree on the vineyard. Speaking of price, an even better value is the 2016 vintage of the same wine, which is gorgeously developed and even more complex, and which I have seen still available at retail for $44.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 22, 2023

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($29, Dreyfus Ashby):

Drouhin’s elegant and lacey style is a perfect fit for the ripe red wines of 2015. The reds from Santenay, a low-keyed village at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune bordering Chassagne-Montrachet, can have a rustic edge to them. Taming this rusticity -- making it charming -- without eviscerating the signature of the village’s wine is a difficult line to walk, one that Drouhin does marvelously with its 2015 Santenay. Glossy, but not too elegant, the rustic charm of Santenay is apparent and appealing. Very long, especially for a village wine, this mid-weight wine is a beauty to drink now, with a roast chicken and sautéed mushrooms. Yum! 91 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2017

Maison Louis Jadot, Santenay (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2018 ($40, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Though Jadot is a major négociant, they also are an important grower, farming over 300 acres of vineyards in Burgundy. This Santenay, from a village in the southern part of the Côte de Beaune, is from one of their vineyards. Jadot’s Clos de Malte consistently provides excellent value. The 2018 outdoes itself with a hint of extra fleshiness and spice, which enhances its rustic charm. It would also be a good addition to the Thanksgiving table.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2020

Lucien Muzard & Fils, Santenay (Burgundy, France) “Champs Claude” Vieilles Vignes 2008 ($35, Vintage '59 Imports): Fresh and bright and driving in flavor, this is an extremely tasty little Pinot, and I write “little” not to depreciate the wine, but rather to indicate that this is a bottling that offers the all-too-rare delicacy that was once this variety’s meal ticket. Roast chicken is the particular meal I’ve got in mind, but most of today’s fat, sappy Pinots would pound a chicken to smithereens, whereas this will flatter even delicate white meat with its fresh, focused notes of red cherry and wild strawberry along with very subtle oak spice. Tannins are very fine and light, and the maceration and fermentation decisions that were taken to make this wine were spot on and impressively respectful of the fruit material. 90 Michael Franz Jan 18, 2011

Maison Louis Latour, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($25):

With the current market and demand for Burgundy pushing prices into the stratosphere, it’s rewarding to fine a wine like Latour’s Santenay. For those who believe that authentic Burgundy is always expensive, I suggest you try this one. Nature was kind to Burgundy in 2015, providing a touch of extra ripeness and perfectly healthy grapes. Wines lower on the prestige ladder, such as this village wine from the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, benefited enormously. It has gorgeous concentration and an ideal combination of fruitiness and complementary herbal notes. It has surprising polish for Santenay, resulting in a wine displaying charming rusticity. Engaging now, with a roast chicken, for example, it has the requisite balance to develop nicely over the next few years, so there’s no rush to drink it if you buy a case -- as I recommend, given the price. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2017

Albert Bichot, Santenay (Burgundy, France) "Les Charmes" 2014 ($25):

With prices of fine Burgundy rising every vintage, it’s refreshing to find wines of this quality still available at relatively affordable levels. This is a lively Pinot Noir that shows the delicacy and complexity offered by many Côte de Beaune reds. Ripe red cherry and raspberry fruit aromas are deliciously pure. The intense fruits are enhanced by dried flower, herb and baking spice tones. The flavors are lively and spicy with the pure, tart red fruits followed by floral, earthy, herb and baking spice elements. It is light on the palate but not at all insubstantial. Burgundian Pinot Noir is endearing because it balances pure fruit character with an enchanting combination of texture and layering. The Bichot Santenay Les Charmes offers all of these qualities and more.
89 Wayne Belding Aug 28, 2018

Bernard Morey, Santenay (Burgundy, France) "Vieilles Vignes" 2005 ($30, Vineyard Brands): This is a classic example of red wine from Santenay, leafy and slightly rustic. I love it because it is distinctive and is full of character, not just bright in-your-face fruitiness. Mild tannins make it approachable and enjoyable now. It's a good match for a hearty chicken stew or other 'country' fare. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($22, Dreyfus Ashby): This is an extremely useful little wine and a rare example of a moderately priced red Burgundy that isn't thin and hard. Bright cherry fruit is accented with a little whiff of wood and a light undertone of wild mushrooms, with fresh acidity and soft, fine-grained tannins well balanced against the fruit. Truly light-bodied but not lacking for aroma or fruit, this is a very promising match for grilled fish, almost any chicken dish, or lighter preparations of pork, duck or veal. 89 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2006

Bouchard Père & Fils, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($24, Clicquot, Inc.): Luc Bouchard told me that he finds the wines from Santenay unappealing in difficult vintages and that Bouchard won't buy in those years. However, in a year like 2002, Bouchard purchased heavily, the equivalent just over 3,000 cases. With the appealing characteristic rusticity of Santenay, Bouchard's 2002 is unexpectedly charming and graceful. It's a great introduction to Burgundy. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Joseph Drouhin, Santenay (Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2009 ($28, Dreyfus Ashby): Santenay is typically reliable in the good vintages, such as 2009. This village at the southern tip of the Cote de Beaune has never had much cachet, but if what you want is a solid red Burgundy at an affordable price, Santenay makes for a good bet. Drouhin's '09 Santenay is impeccably balanced, with a strong hint of minerality, and shows good intensity of red-fruited character, with firm tannins that bode well for cellaring. This wine should begin to hit its peak in 2013 and hold it for another five years or so. A bottle or two would make a wise investment in the utterly delicious 2009 vintage of red Burgundy. 88 Robert Whitley Sep 20, 2011

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Santenay (Cote de Beaune, Burgundy) 2003 ($24, Dreyfus Ashby): Santenay, a village at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, is remarkable not only for its great-value wines but also the wines' aging ability. The 2003 Drouhin Santenay is brooding, rich but supple, and quite firm. It should be even better in three or four years. 88 Ed McCarthy Jan 24, 2006

Maison Louis Latour, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($25, Louis Latour Inc.): Santenay is one of the least prestigious villages in the Cote d'Or and hence, its wines, like this one, are usually attractively priced. Characteristic of wines from this village, Latour's has a charming earthy rusticity to complement its bright mid-weight cherry-like fruit flavors. Mild tannins indicate that this honest red Burgundy is a good choice for current drinking. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2009

Louis Latour, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($23, Louis Latour Inc.): There's no question in my mind that the red wines throughout Burgundy were sensational in 2005. The hallmark of a great vintage to me is that lesser known locales, such as Santenay, produced engaging wines. The rustic earthiness--a hallmark of wines from Santenay--is less apparent in Latour's 2005 because of the overall quality of the vintage. The brightness of the Pinot Noir fruit shines through making this a fine accompaniment for a take-out rotisserie chicken. 87 Michael Apstein Mar 18, 2008

Lucien Le Moine, Santenay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Rousseau 2019 ($100, Vintus):

The wines from Santenay, an often-overlooked village of the Côte de Beaune, often display a touch of rusticity, charming in good hands, less charming in others. Clos Rousseau sits at the southern end of Santenay on the border with Maranges. It’s a cooler site, which may explain why Le Moine’s is so successful in a hot year like 2019. As you would expect from its pedigree, there is considerably more punch and complexity here compared to Le Moine’s Bourgogne Rouge. Lovely aromatics give way to deep cherry-like fruitiness accented by savory earthiness. Its 14 percent stated-alcohol reflects its ripeness and concentration, but there’s not a trace of unpleasant alcoholic burn in the finish. This suavely textured wine delivers the Santenay rusticity in a very attractive form. It’s a fabulous expression of Santenay.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2022

Lucien Muzard & Fils, Santenay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Faubard 2010 ($47, Vintage ’59 Imports): Santenay is among the least well-known appellations in the Côte d’Or, but its best producers make excellent wines that offer exceptional value. That description fits this wine perfectly, and it shows the virtues of the 2010 vintage beautifully, with full ripeness braced by lots of fresh acidity and appropriately firm tannins. The fruit shows both red and black cherry notes, and subtle use of wood lets its fresh character shine. Hold this for four or five years to see it near its best. 91 Michael Franz Jan 29, 2013

Thomas Morey, Santenay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Grand Clos Rousseau 2007 ($55, Louis Dressner Selections):

Santenay is one of the least prestigious villages of the Cote d'Or and despite the inclusion of 'Grand' in the name, the Clos Rousseau is not the village's best plot. Nonetheless, Thomas Morey has made an exceptional wine, especially notable taking into account the difficulty of the 2007 vintage for reds. Serious stuff, this Santenay has earthy notes and attractive rusticity to complement red fruit flavors. Great length and balance makes it especially appealing.

Domaine Vincent Girardin, Santenay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Gravieres Vieilles Vignes 2004 ($33, Vineyard Brands): Girardin is one of Burgundy's most consistent producers, turning out a remarkable array of whites and reds that are true to the broader region and the particular commune of origin. Most impressive, however, is the fact that the wines almost always show generous depth of fruit and flavor, even in less-than-stellar years. Prices are also admirably reasonable, as in this case. Red and black cherry fruit is intertwined with a subtle berry note and delicate accents of smoke and spices, and very fine-grained tannins lend structure without drying the finish. 89 Michael Franz Mar 20, 2007

Girardin, Santenay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Gravières "Vieilles Vignes" 2005 ($38, Vineyard Brands): Characteristic of Girardin's style, this Santenay has riper fruit flavors with less rusticity. The complexity expected from a premier cru site is apparent, especially in the finish. Slightly more New Worldish, it is seductive and easy to love now without further aging. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Vincent Girardin, Santenay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) “La Maladiere” 2005 ($35, Vineyard Brands): Richly fruited, so showing the effects of Burgundy's warm growing season in 2005, this wine feels soft and silky on the palate. At present, it does not display much secondary character either in the bouquet or on the palate, but I suspect that is due to its being so young. I'd advise buying it to cellar, and then holding it for at least five years before opening it. At that point, it may very well merit a 90+ score. 88 Paul Lukacs Nov 6, 2007

Vincent Girardin, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Gravières 2016 ($54, Vineyard Brands):

Even accounting for the facts that Girardin is an excellent producer and 2016 a top vintage in Burgundy, I was still stunned by how good this wine is. Phenomenally expressive aromatically, it emits billowing aromas of juicy black cherry fruit interlaced with savory mushroom-like scents and earthy undertones. My guess was that the flavors couldn’t match these aromatic fireworks, but wrong again. Dark cherry and berry flavors and spicy accents are wonderfully appealing, and the ultra-fine tannins offer welcome grip in the finish but no astringency or bitterness. Wood notes are barely perceptible, but it isn’t quite clear (to me, at least) whether this is because of a quite low percentage of new barrels or just because the wine’s marvelously flavorful character simply trumps the oak. Purists may be put off by what seems like a little whiff of brett in this, but I couldn’t care less. It doesn’t remotely compromise the wine, and simply serves to enhance its complexity. Truly delicious red Burgundy that can be afforded by those without rock bands or trust funds are not yet impossible to find -- as this wine proves. I’m buying it. See you in the checkout line.
94 Michael Franz Sep 3, 2019

Lucien Muzard et Fils, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Maladière Vieilles Vignes 2017 ($42, Polaner Selections):

The 2017 red Burgundies fall into two categories: forward and charming ready-to-drink wines and more structured ones suitable for the cellar. This Santenay falls into the first category. I attribute its amazing gracefulness, especially for Santenay, to the old vines in the hands of a talented producer. It combines fresh red fruit-like flavors and savory notes and ends with a delightful freshness. Finesse-filled, it still conveys the charming, slightly rustic profile of Santenay. Frankly, given the prices of Burgundy these days, it’s a great buy.
93 Michael Apstein May 14, 2019

Vincent Girardin, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Le Beauregard 2016 ($49, Vineyard Brands):

This terrific wine is just one click down from the astonishing 2016 Les Gravières, and if this is the only one of the two you can find to buy, you should snap it up without hesitation. It is actually a bit the better of the two in terms of purity of fruit, as it doesn’t show the hint of brett shown by the Les Gravières, though it can’t quite match that wine for sheer complexity. I hasten to add, however, that this is amazingly complex for such a young wine from a second-tier village in Burgundy. Very expressive in both aroma and flavor, it also displays truly wonderful texture, with tannins that are so fine in grain that they seem perfectly interwoven with the fruit and acidity.
93 Michael Franz Sep 3, 2019

Lucien Muzard & Fils, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Mouches 2008 ($45, Vintage '59 Imports): This is the most substantial of the exceptionally delicate, intricate 2008s from Muzard, with a bit more depth of fruit and just a little more palate weight to enable this to hang in at the table with a duck as well as a chicken. The fruit profile also points the meter’s needle a couple of ticks to the right, toward black fruit notes as opposed to red, but like its stablemates, this is also an essentially ethereal Pinot with remarkably well-measured wood and fine-grained tannins that gently structure the lovely fruit without obscuring it.
91 Michael Franz Jan 18, 2011

Lucien Muzard & Fils, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Maladière 2008 ($40, Vintage '59 Imports): When tasting red Burgundy I’m more likely to give points for poise than power, so if you want something big and burly, you might want another reviewer’s advice. Conversely, if you are done with chunky, obvious Pinot and want some finesse, this is a terrific choice at a quite

reasonable price--at least in the scheme of Burgundy pricing. The wine delivers lots of aroma and flavor but is marvelously light and even “lacy,” in the sense that its aromatic and flavor elements present themselves but always let you “see” through them to other aspects of the wine. Those include fresh fruit flavors of red cherry with backnotes of dark cherries, buttressed by just enough tannin to frame the fruit without drying it or foreshortening the finish. There’s virtually no overt oak influence, and the finish is fresh and lively and amazingly long for a wine of such light weight.
91 Michael Franz Jan 18, 2011

Domaine Muzard, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Maladière 2013 ($50, Vintage ’59 Imports):

This wine was made from the extremely troublesome Burgundy vintage of 2013, but the wine is so easy to enjoy that you’d never guess that it was sourced from a year that was widely disappointing for vintners. The red fruit notes are open and very expressive in aroma and flavor, with notable depth and substance but still a lithe overall profile. The delicate tannins are nicely tuned to the freshness of the fruit, and what little oak is discernible is quite subtle -- again in balance with the wine’s restrained weight. A side-note of interest is that the Premier Cru Maladière vineyard draws it name from its especially sunny exposure, which (centuries ago) made it the perfect place for treating the malady of leprosy. If you find that historical detail more off-putting than interesting, try the wine anyway, as its admirable purity will provide an antidote for any unpleasant association.
90 Michael Franz Mar 1, 2016

Benjamin Leroux, Savigny-les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($49, Becky Wasserman Selection):

Benjamin Leroux is a small négociant who shows that, with all the fuss about growers, négociant is not a bad word. I tasted an extensive line-up of his staggeringly good barrel samples of his 2020s in November, which made me open some of the 2019s I had purchased. Searching out less prestigious appellations, such as Savigny-les-Beaune, is the only reasonable way to buy Burgundies currently. From a top producer, such as Leroux, these wines represent superb value. Some 2019 Burgundies suffer from over-ripeness. Not this one. It’s bottled charm, with delicate but persistent red fruit flavors that dance on the palate. Fresh and lively, it also displays hints of woodsy notes as it sits in the glass. Though delightful now, it has more complexity to show, which it will, with a few years of bottle age.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 18, 2022

Jean Féray et Fils, Savigny-les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Sous La Cabotte” 2018 ($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

The 2018 vintages produced some charming red Burgundies, some of which, such as this one, are delicious now. Féray’s has wonderful depth for a village wine, reflecting the ripeness of the grapes due to the warmth of the vintage. Good acidity keeps it fresh and balances its red fruit-like fruitiness. It blossoms as it sits in the glass. It has the requisite balance to develop with bottle age, but I suspect you won’t have the patience to wait, especially if there is a roast chicken about to emerge from the oven.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2021

Joseph Drouhin, Savigny-Les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($47, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Drouhin sources grapes for this tasty red Burgundy from two vineyards in the northern end of the Côte de Beaune. Following a traditional fermentation, the wine was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels, 20% of which are new oak. The minimum use of new oak is what gives this lovely wine its clarity and depth of fruit. The color is a medium ruby, while the aromatics show cherry-berry, dried roses and spices that follow through to the nicely textured flavors. The wine finishes with 13% alcohol and plenty of fruit. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 27, 2011

Maison Alex Gambal, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Grand Picotins” 2012 ($50, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill):

Savigny-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a good source for authentic Burgundy. Alex Gambal, an American who is one of Burgundy’s rising stars, makes elegant and refined wines under the guidance of his winemaker, Geraldine Godot. She joined he Gambal team in 2009 and is responsible, in large measure, for the leap in quality of his wines. This village wine is just one example of her talents. Very pure and lacey, it conveys the magic of Burgundy. Fine to drink now its sublime fruitiness will be transformed into even more complexity with a few years of bottle age.
91 Michael Apstein Mar 25, 2014

Bouchard Père et Fils, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($32, Henriot USA): Village wines get short shrift as consumers clamor for wines from Premier Cru vineyards. This village wine combines unexpected concentration with an alluring floral character. It shows the charm of many of the 2011 reds.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013

Domaine Antonin Guyon, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) Les Goudelettes 2011 ($37, L’Esprit du Vin): The wines from Savigny-lès-Beaune, a village just north of Beaune (lès means near), lacking the prestige of its more famous neighbor, can offer good value when they are made by top producers, such as Domaine Antonin Guyon. Rather concentrated for a wine from Savigny, this village wine maintains the energy and tension often associated with a premier cru. A healthy dose of savory notes that balances and complements the fruitiness reminds you this is real Burgundy. It has the charm of Burgundy and is ready to enjoy now.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015

Domaine Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($30, Wasserman Selections):

With prices of fine Burgundy rising every vintage, it’s refreshing to find wines of this quality still available at relatively affordable levels. This is a lively Pinot Noir that shows the delicacy and complexity offered by many Côte de Beaune wines. Ripe red cherry and raspberry fruit aromas are enhanced by dried flower, herb and spice tones. The flavors are lively and spicy with the pure, tart red fruits followed by floral, earthy, herb and baking spice elements. It is light on the palate but not at all insubstantial. Burgundian Pinot Noir is endearing because it balances pure fruit character with an enchanting combination of texture and layering.
90 Wayne Belding Oct 21, 2014

Maison Bouchard, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($33, Henriot, Inc.): This is one of Bouchard’s charming négociant (as opposed to Domaine) wine from the lesser known village of Savigny-lès-Beaune. It delivers precise charming cherry-like notes with just a hint of earthiness that reminds you why it’s labeled Burgundy and not Pinot Noir. This wine will enhance a simple roast chicken and is guaranteed to perk up an ordinary Thursday night. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2012

Maison Nicolas Potel, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 'Vieilles Vignes' 2007 ($39, Frederick Wildman): The humid and wet weather during the growing season in 2007 had the potential to produce grapes afflicted with rot and hence wines with off flavors. Potel's Savigny-lès-Beaune shows that careful selection to exclude diseased grapes can result in wine with pure clean flavors. Quite fragrant, it delivers clear cherry-like fruit flavors with a whiff of earthiness. Delicate and stylish, it's a good choice for current consumption with grilled salmon. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2009

Vincent Girardin, Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Vergelesses 2005 ($38, Vineyard Brands):

A gorgeous rendering of Pinot Noir from Savigny-Les-Beaune, this is a truly exceptional wine at a very attractive price (and that would be true even if the dollar were not so weak and the 2005 reds from Burgundy so expensive). Delicate but also notably ripe and rich, the fruit shows real depth and a soft, tender feel. Acidity, wood and tannin are all very well balanced against the fruit, and the wine seems very symmetrical and pure. 91 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2007

Bruno Clair, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Dominodes 2005 ($84, Vineyard Brands):

OK, $84 for any Savigny-lès-Beaune is asking a lot. But this is no ordinary Savigny-lès-Beaune. The vines are 100 years old, which explains why it has a Corton-like sweetness and power. Concentrated and silky, with beautiful balance, it has uncommon elegance and length. Bruno Clair makes wonderful wines! 95 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2007

Domaine Serrigny, Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Dominode 2014 ($56, Vintage '59 Imports): Red Burgundies from 2014 are now arriving in quantity on our shores, and

this one is so good that you might want to head to the East Coast with your telescope. I had no prior experience with this domaine until tasting this wine, nor had I ever heard of "Les Dominode" (which turns out to be a Lieu-Dit that is contained within the Narbantons Premeir Cru). Our first encounter could hardly have gone better, as demonstrated by the fact that I have taken the precaution of buying a case of the wine before publishing this review. It shows a wonderful interplay of fresh, open Pinot fruit with a host of savory, mushroomy undertones. Many of the 2014 red Burgundies I'm tasting are very tight now, but this is a wonderfully expressive exception to the rule. With that noted, however, there's every reason to believe it will develop nicely for at least another five years, as it is shows fresh acidity and plenty of fine-grained tannins. It is worth noting that this domaine's straight village Savigny-les-Beaune is simple but delicious and totally ready to rock for $40, and the 1er Cru "Les Puellets" is now quite brooding and closed but very promising in concentration and proportions.
93 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2017

Maison Louis Jadot, Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Dominode 2011 ($45, Kobrand):

Jadot’s Savigny-lès-Beaune and their Pernand-Vergelesses lend powerful support to France’s focus on terroir. These two wines, from comparably prestigious premier cru sites less than a few miles apart, were made from the same grape -- Pinot Noir -- by the same winemaking team. Yet they are quite different wines. The Savigny-lès-Beaune La Dominode delivers more black -- rather than red -- fruit flavors and overall is weightier, though still not in the New World category. The differences between these wines can only lie in the site of the vineyard. The Savigny-lès-Beaune La Dominode retains the signature Jadot balance and precision -- as does the Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre -- which shows that the winemaking team is as important as terroir in the finished wine. It, too, is remarkable enjoyable now. Try it with a roast chicken embellished with sautéed mushrooms.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014

Henri Prudhon, St. Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Argillers 2010 ($30, Rosenthal Wine Merchant): St. Aubin, an off the main road village in Burgundy, is known mostly for whites, which, because of recent popularity, has already resulted in considerable prices increase for those Chardonnay-based wines. The reds, made exclusively from Pinot Noir, such as this one, remain relatively undiscovered--and therefore, reasonably priced. I had this one recently at Aquitaine, a down-to-earth bistro in Boston, where its delicate mixture of fresh red fruits and subtle savory notes paired marvelously with roasted salmon. Though immediately aromatic, it opened further during the meal with flavors dancing on the palate while lively acidity in the finish kept it fresh and you coming back for more.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 21, 2015

Olivier Leflaive, St. Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Charmois 2010 ($35, Frederick Wildman): Leflaive’s St. Aubin Premier Cru has been a consistently “go to” white Burgundy. Not a shy wine, this 2010 Charmois delivers immediately appealing ripe forward notes balanced by spice and bright acidity. Like all good white Burgundy, it evolves in the glass showing that the immediate impact is not just a flash in the pan. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2012

Genot-Boulanger, Volnay (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($40, Jeanne Marie de Champs): Although not labeled “Vieilles Vignes,” this village wine comes from three vineyards whose vines average 45 to 60 years. The age of the vines probably explains why you could be fooled into thinking it was a premier cru. It delivers the lovely perfume and delicacy associated with Volnay while the bright cherry-like flavors practically dance across your palate. It’s hard to resist drinking this very pretty easy to recommend wine now, but there’s no rush. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012

Joseph Drouhin, Volnay (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($42, Dreyfus, Ashby): Volnay is my favorite Côte de Beaune village. Its Burgundies have a finesse and elegance which is lacking in other Côte de Beaune wines. The 2003 Drouhin Volnay is delicate and harmonious, with lovely raspberry aromas and flavors. It is already approachable, although it should even be better in two or three years. 91 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Volnay (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($50):

As the 2015 red Burgundies begin to hit retailers’ shelves, they confirm my initial enthusiasm for this vintage. Take, for example, this Volnay, a village wine from one of Burgundy’s top négociants. Floral and lacey, it conveys the quintessential Burgundy characteristic that I call “flavor without weight.” It dances on the palate amplified -- not in power, but in length -- by lively acidity. Though it’s in its primary red-fruit stage, savory earthy notes peek through. It reminds us that super enjoyable Burgundy can be found at the village level. Engaging now with roast chicken in a mushroom sauce or grilled salmon, it has the requisite balance -- and Drouhin’s skill -- for wonderful development over the next decade. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2017

Joseph Drouhin, Volnay (Cotes de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2004 ($32, Dreyfus Ashby): Shelling out big bucks for the 'village' wines of Burgundy is often an exercise in futility. These wines, particularly the reds, are disappointing more often than not unless the negociant is a reputable house. Drouhin's '04 Volnay has all the right stuff: a floral nose, richness and viscosity with supple tannins and a lingering, elegant finish. Volnay is one of the finest villages for reds in the Cotes de Beaune, and Drouhin milks every drop of finesse out of it in this vintage. Served slightly chilled, this is a perfect red for al fresco dining on a warm day. 88 Robert Whitley Jul 11, 2006

Bouchard Père & Fils, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 2002 ($55, Clicquot, Inc.): As Clos des Ursules is Jadot's flagship from Beaune, this is Bouchard's standard bearer from Volnay. This portion of the Caillerets vineyard, Bouchard's first acquisition in 1775, was subsequently acquired by others through inheritance. A marriage to a member of the Carnot family brought it back to Bouchard and explains its elongated name, Ancienne Cuvée Carnot. A vertical tasting of it back to the 1964 in Bouchard's cellars in 2000 showed how beautifully this wine ages and evolves. Its fabulously floral nose screams Volnay. But its combination of power and delicacy coupled with extraordinary length make it special. Mild to moderate tannins are ripe, not intrusive, and assure a lovely evolution. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005

Domaine Henri Boillot, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Fremiets 2007 ($146, The Sorting Table): Henri Boillot is the largest landowner in this premier cru vineyard, which sits at the base of the slope and therefore has a touch more clay in the soil. There's unusual and seductive richness to this Volnay--probably due in part to the heavier soil--but not at the expense of its engaging floral elements. Like many 2007 red Burgundies, the fruit element--in this case a mélange of black and red fruit flavors--is apparent and charming. Forward and supple, it is extraordinarily appealing now, but has impeccable balance and will develop the hallmark Burgundian earthy complexity with time in the bottle. Boillot must have performed a severe selection because this wine is polished, pure and fresh without a trace of rot that could detract from 2007 reds. 94 Michael Apstein Mar 31, 2009

Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Chênes 2009 ($130, Vintage ’59 Imports): This is an expensive wine so you’d want to be sure that it is something special before taking the plunge…and indeed it is truly something special. Exceptionally graceful and delicate, it shows very expressive aromas and flavors and impressive depth and persistence, and manages to achieve all of this without any extraneous weight. Beautifully ripened and tastefully crafted, this is a beautiful wine that can be enjoyed now with food but would best be held for another 5 years. 94 Michael Franz Jan 29, 2013

Joseph Faiveley, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Santenots 2009 ($95, Frederick Wildman):

Faively was exceptionally successful in 2009, which is really saying something in this terrific vintage for Pinot Noir Burgundy. Ripe and rich and already very approachable, the wine is nevertheless not lacking for structure, as there’s enough acidity and tannin to enable it to develop for many more years. Suave and subtle, with beautiful texture and impressive length, this is textbook Volnay. 94 Michael Franz Apr 24, 2012

Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets “Ancienne Cuvée Carnot” 2010 ($69): The portion of the Caillerets vineyard Bouchard owns, purchased in 1775 and labeled Ancienne Cuvée Carnot, was the first vineyard land they purchased. Not surprisingly, it sits in the best section of Caillerets, itself one of the top sites in Volnay. Its special significance to Bouchard coupled with the location explains why it’s consistently a great wine. The 2010 is no exception. Floral and at first, seemingly delicate, but then waves of red fruit flavors, herbal notes and subtle earthy elements cascade on the palate. Velvety and suave, with tender tannins, it is remarkably engaging at this stage. But don’t be fooled. Bouchard’s Volnay Caillerets develops gorgeously and rewards decades--yes, decades--of cellaring. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2012

Domaine Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Champans 2010 ($108, Vintage '59):

My sample of this wine didn’t show quite as much structure and linear drive as Voillot’s Pommard Les Pèzerolles from 2011, but it exhibited even more charm and elegance. Aromas and flavors of red as well as black fruits show admirable complexity thanks to floral, mineral and spice accents. A lovely wine that is sure to become even more complex and compelling over the course of the next 5 to 7 years.
93 Michael Franz Jan 14, 2014

Domaine Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Fremiets 2019 ($92, Vintage ’59 Imports):

This single-vineyard Volnay is beautiful from the first whiff to the last sip. Red and black fruit notes are balanced against traditional Burgundian mushroom and underbrush characteristics. Additionally, a hint of minerality contributed to a thoroughly positive sensory experience. The 2019 vintage was unusually dry and sunny for Volnay, and Burgundy in general, producing an especially ripe and concentrated fruit profile, as exemplified in this wine. While already drinking extremely well, this wine has plenty of capacity to grow and, rightfully, deserves a chance to continue improving if you can lay it down for another 6 to 8 years. Consider employing a “hands off” sign if, like me, you need a reminder!
93 Vince Simmon Mar 8, 2022

Maison Louis Latour, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Chevret 2019 ($100, Louis Latour, USA):

Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s leading négociants, hit a home run with their 2019 reds. From the array I’ve tasted, you could almost pick with your eyes closed and get a terrific wine. This Volnay 1er is especially attractive because of its seductive perfume, silky texture, and refinement. It displays good depth and concentration without a trace of heaviness. Its energy and an attractive hint of bitterness in the finish is a reminder that Latour avoided the potential over ripe pitfall of the vintage.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2022

Domaine Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Champans 2004 ($65, Vintage '59 Imports):

This gorgeous Volnay is an object lesson in the peerless ability of this Côte de Beaune village to produce Pinot Noir that is at once charming and impressive. The charm side of the equation is derived from lovely perfume and tender texture, whereas the impressive elements are deep, persistent flavors of black and red cherries. Delicious now but capable of improving for another five years, this is a lovely red Burgundy. 92 Michael Franz Feb 20, 2007

Xavier Monnot, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Chenes 2012 ($85, Robert Katcher Selections): One whiff of this wine explains the reputation of Volnay and why the wines from this village are in such great demand. Most experts consider Clos des Chenes one of the best premier cru vineyards in this village that lacks any grand crus. With its explosive floral qualities, Monnot’s 2012 is a quintessential example of top-notch Volnay. Its enormous impact on the palate -- fresh red fruits with a dash of savory notes -- is all the more impressive because of the wine’s delicacy and laciness. I suspect it will be even more alluring in five years as more savory notes evolve, adding to its complexity. To be fair, if you can afford it, you won’t be disappointed if you uncork it tonight.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2015

Maison Louis Latour, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Chevrets 2002 ($34, Louis Latour, Inc.): This has the quintessential Burgundy character of loads of flavor without heaviness. Impeccably balanced, it is unusual to see premier cru wines at this price. 90 Michael Franz Jul 22, 2005

Domaine Henri Boillot, Volnay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fremiets 2007 ($125, The Sorting Table): Domaine Henri Boillot (prior to the 2005 vintage it was known as Domaine Jean Boillot) makes some of Burgundy’s best wines. He is the largest owner of this premier cru vineyard in Volnay and typically makes an exciting wine from it. His 2007 is no exception. Its floral nose is immediately seductive. The rich ripe mixture of red fruits spiced with herbal notes delights the taste buds. Unusually big and intense for a Volnay, it is, nonetheless, wonderfully balanced. The supple silky texture makes it easy to enjoy now. With air, additional complexity emerges. It’s an astounding wine—at an equally astounding price. 95 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2009

Pousse d’Or, Volnay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caillerets 2006 ($105, Ideal Wines): I first tasted this wine at a trade tasting where it was poured after a Grand Cru, Clos Vougeot. It’s not often that a Volnay is tasted after a Vougeot (of course, it’s not often to see Volnay priced at over $100 a bottle, either), but in this case it was the correct order--and not because the Clos Vougeot was a poor example of that appellation. This gorgeously seductive Burgundy is ripe and plush, yet impeccably balanced. Not-just-fruit flavors amplify the enjoyment. Just when you think you’ve savored everything it has to offer, more flavors burst forth with the next sip. An extraordinary wine. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2010

Domaine Henri Boillot, Volnay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chevrets 2007 ($100, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): Similar to Boillot’s 2007 Volnay Fremiets (previously reviewed), his Les Chevrets has gorgeous aromatics followed by a panoply of perfectly pure red and black fruit flavors. It’s unusually concentrated for Volnay, but maintains the glossy texture for which that village is known. Similar to many 2007 red Burgundies, it’s forward and juicy at this stage, but unlike most, still has enough structure for balance and development. Long and polished, this is another wine that so just how talented Henri Boillot is. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2009

Maison Louis Latour, Volnay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Chevret 2009 ($45, Louis Latour USA): It’s worth repeating: The 2009 red Burgundies are sensational. Perfect weather at harvest was the culmination of superb weather during the entire growing season. The wines in general, like this one, are unusually ripe and easy to drink now. Prices are up, reflecting strong demand, so when you see a premier cru Volnay from a top producer, such as Latour, at a reasonable price--for Burgundy, at least--take notice. The floral red fruit perfume of this wine is the first element to seduce you. And then the quintessential “flavor without weight” character of Burgundy dazzles the palate with a mixture of raspberry-like notes mixed with leafy earthy nuances. Long and suave, this charming mid-weight wine is hard to resist now. 91 Michael Apstein May 31, 2011

Maison Louis Latour, Volnay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Chevrets 2006 ($58, Louis Latour Inc.): Latour controls almost half of this premier cru vineyard through long term contracts and it has become one of their most available and consistently good red Burgundies. The 2006, while not the sensational wine of 2005 (which you should snap up if you still find it) delivers bright, pure red fruit and the signature charm of Volnay surrounded by fine, glossy tannins. The premier cru status shows in its earthy notes and exceptional finish. Quite approachable now, I would drink it over the next year before it closes up and then you'll need to wait a decade or so. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Domaine AF Gros, Vosne Romanée (Burgundy, France) "Aux Réas" 2004 ($65, Cellar Door Selections): Not to be confused with the 1er cru, Clos de Réas, Aux Reás carries simply the Vosne Romanée AOC. But what a village wine it is! Extraordinary perfume announces a stylish and elegant Burgundy that combines equal amounts of earthiness and fruit. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2006

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Vosne-Romanée (Burgundy, France) Les Chaumes 2002 ($150): Vosne-Romanée, a village in the Côte de Nuits part of the fabled Côte d'Or district, is my absolute favorite area in Burgundy. Red Burgundies here are grands vins indeed; they are elegant, rich, and velvety. Domaine Méo-Camuzet, one of the finest wineries in the region, made a particularly gorgeous premier cru, the Les Chaumes, in the splendid 2002 vintage. If the 2002 is unavailable, go for the 2004, which is almost as good. 95 Ed McCarthy Feb 5, 2008

Domaine A. F. Gros, Vosne-Romanée (Burgundy, France) "Aux Réas" 2004 ($64, Cellar Door Selections): This wine shows the critical importance of the producer when buying Burgundy. Aux Réas is a lieux-dit or place name, not a premier cru vineyard and 2004 was, as the French say, a 'difficult year' in Burgundy for red wines. But A. F. Gros could probably also make a silk purse from a sow's ear. A. F. Gros's 2004 Aux Réas has the alluring 'not just fruit' character-hints of dried leaves and mushrooms-that is quintessential red Burgundy. It impresses with it length, elegance and complexity, not brute force. 94 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Vosne-Romanée (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($55, Dreyfus, Ashby): I've always loved Burgundies from Vosne-Romanée, but who doesn't? This village produces quintessential Burgundy: elegant, harmonious, rich, and long-lasting. Drouhin's 2003 Vosne-Romanée stands out. Completely delicious even now, with a depth of flavor (small red fruits) and a concentration which is the hallmark of great Burgundy. 93 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Alex Gambal, Vosne-Romanée (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($70, Schneiders of Capital Hill): It is a rare year indeed that a producer excels in both reds and whites in Burgundy. But Gambal has done so in 2010. This 2010 Vosne-Romanée is a good example of his success with that vintage. It delivers the quintessential Burgundian combination of fruit and earth, with the flavors of each playing off nicely against the other. The tannins are polished and the acidity enlivening. It delivers what Burgundy is supposed to deliver--flavor without weight. And that’s an impressive accomplishment for a village wine. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012

Joseph Faiveley, Vosne-Romanée (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($78, Frederick Wildman & Sons): I rarely recommend village wines from Vosne- Romanée, because they are invariably expensive due to the cachet of the name but are usually made from mediocre fruit drawn from the lower flats of the appellation. Well, this wine offers little relief on the price issue, but it certainly exceeds expectations in terms of performance. Although it shows the potential to unwind for years to come, and is sure to remain fresh on account of abundant acidity, this already shows lots of open charm, with red and black fruit notes, subtle edging from oak, and interesting savory backnotes recalling mushrooms and truffles. 91 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) "Cuvee Duvault-Blochet" 2008 ($255, Wilson-Daniels): This is the 5th time in 10 years that DRC has produced this wine, a multi-vineyard blend made from younger vines. It's the entry-level wine for DRC, which makes the price arguably even more breathtaking than the portfolio stars. The color is extremely light, and the aroma is spicy, with an initial strong pepperiness and notes of raspberry and smoked salt. It's also quite peppery initially on the palate, but then lovely raspberry kicks in and carries it to a long and pretty finish. In fact, it's surprising that something so light can also be so long. Maybe it's the light saber of Pinots. 93 W. Blake Gray Mar 8, 2011

Domaine Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaumes 2018 ($140, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Vosne-Romanée could be considered the most revered village in Burgundy. Its wines, even those sporting just a village appellation, carry hefty price tags. And with the 25 percent tariffs, the prices are truly extraordinary. That said, this is a pretty extraordinary wine. In the 15 years that Nicole Lamarche has been in charge of the winemaking, the quality of the wines has sky-rocketed. Les Chaumes vineyard sits in the middle of the village, abutting La Tâche in one corner. Lamarche’s 2018 Les Chaumes is dazzling with its sublime finesse. Delicate fruitiness and alluring spice, especially in the finish, is mesmerizing. A racy wine with plenty of energy, its allure resides in its elegance. There no shouting here. It captivates you by sneaking up on you. An archetypal Burgundy, it displays flavor without weight leaving you with a sense of…wow, where did that come from?
95 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2021

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Malconsorts 2013 ($475, Becky Wasserman Selection): The wines from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, now run by Sylvain’s son, Sébastien, have become some of the most sought after in all of Burgundy. The Premier Cru vineyard Aux Malconsorts is adjacent to and just south of the Grand Cru La Tache, which, in combination of the renown of the producer, explains the extraordinary price for a premier cru. It’s an explosive wine, yet amazingly, not heavy. It dances across the palate. It’s the quintessential Burgundy--flavor without weight, delivering captivating fruit, spice and earthiness. But it’s weightless. And elegant. And long. Is it worth the price? That’s for you and your banker to decide.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015

Hudelot Noellat, Vougeot Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Petit Vougeot 2006 ($75, Ideal Wine & Spirits): The major problem with the 2006 red Burgundies is that they followed and were overshadowed by the phenomenal 2005 vintage. While there is certainly less consistency among 2006 red Burgundies in general, many producers made equally good--or in some cases--better reds in 2006 than in 2005. This one is a gorgeous one, better than many producers’ grand cru Clos Vougeot, combining seductive floral nuances with fruity flavors and earthy undertones. It has such great balance and length, you could drink in now with great please. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2009

This pert and pretty little rosé is just right for the times. The price is certainly attractive right now (which in itself rates high marks), and the wine’s straightforward simplicity and unfussiness are especially welcome after the overindulgences of the not-very-distant holiday season. No matter that here in the northern hemisphere chill winds are blowing--this rosé drops subtle notes of summery raspberries and cherries into the glass, and the good balance between sweet and fruity makes it as good a partner for lighter wintery fare as for rosé’s traditional hot-weather meals (enjoy it with informal foods such as turkey-based chili, fried chicken, Chinese take-out, or any dish that includes ham). Don’t hold on to it though--drink this wine soon, while it’s still wonderfully crisp and fresh.

Louis Jadot, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($14, Kobrand): Think of ripe Gamay grapes about to become Beaujolais, but instead, the macerated free-run juice is 'bled' off using the saignee technique, fermented in stainless steel tanks and bottled within six months of harvest. This is not Nouveau Beaujolais, but it is close. The color is a light-medium salmon, and the aroma has scents of fresh berries and hard candy. The sweet-tart flavors are short but pleasant and the wine finishes with sufficient fruit. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 17, 2008

Maison Vitteaut-Alberti, Bourgogne Mousseux AOC (Burgundy, France) Rouge Brut NV ($21, Free Run Wine Merchants):

This Burgundian sparkling red blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay is a perfect match for roast turkey or other Thanksgiving delights. This bright perfumed wine shines an intense red in the glass, with fine and persistent bubbles. The concentrated palate brings together the savory nuances of Pinot Noir with black currant and black cherries with the fresh and bright, high-toned fruit flavors of Gamay. It is a charming crowd pleaser.
90 Miranda Franco Nov 22, 2022

Albert Bichot, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($23):

This beauty from Albert Bichot exhibits nuances of lemon zest and crunchy green apple, with a note of freshly baked bread. Firmly structured, crisp and refreshing, it's a Cremant de Bourgogne to serve with richly sauced grilled fish or smoked salmon. One of the finest examples of sparkling wine from Burgundy you are likely to find.
92 Robert Whitley Aug 4, 2015

Simonnet-Febvre, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut NV ($19):

Simonnet-Febvre is the only winery in the Chablis district that produces cremant. This non- vintage brut is 60 percent Chardonnay and 40 percent Pinot Noir. With more power and structure than most cremant, it is an ideal match for rich sauces and game birds. Fruit aromas of peach and apple dominate, with a touch of brioche for complexity. A superb example of Cremant de Bourgogne at its finest.
91 Robert Whitley Aug 4, 2015

Louis Bouillot, Cremant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) "Perle d'Aurore" Rosé NV ($14, Boisset Family Estates):

I keep coming back to this wine and marveling at the quality-price ratio. Made from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay Noir, it's a rich, fruity pink bubbly with a hint of Burgundian earthiness. Sophisticated and delicious, it could fool your friends into thinking it's a pricey Champagne.

Bailly Lapierre, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut Rose NV ($19): This cremant is on the fruity side, showing notes of strawberry, red currant and raspberry, with a lively mousse and refreshing acidity. It's easy drinking as a summer sipper and a wonderful match with savory or spicy appetizers. While delicate and seemingly light, it is packed with flavor and a true crowd-pleaser.
89 Robert Whitley Aug 4, 2015

Cave de Lugny, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut NV ($16): Nicely balanced, crisp and refreshing, this Cremant from the Maconnais district of Burgundy shows hints of crunchy green apple and pear. The cepages is Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay. For the price, a great bang for the buck and a beautiful addition to the table on a warm summer evening.
89 Robert Whitley Aug 4, 2015

Parigot, Cremant de Bourgogne (France) Brut Rose NV ($25): This lovely salmon-colored brut rose is 100 percent Pinot Noir. With delicate aromas of strawberry and cassis, fresh acidity and a clean finish, it's a perfect accompaniment to a warm summer day, with food or without. Nicely balanced with a creamy mid-palate, it will please even the most discriminating palates.
89 Robert Whitley Aug 4, 2015

Simonnet-Febvre, Cremant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Rosé NV ($18, Louis Latour Inc.): Delicate aromas of strawberries waft from the glass and then follow onto the palate. Softer than Champagne, this Cremant de Bourgogne is easy to drink as an aperitif and goes remarkably well with food. It's a great choice when you're looking for a sparkling wine that's 'less serious' than Champagne. 87 Michael Apstein Mar 18, 2008

Christophe Denizot, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Domaine des Moirots NV ($23, Weygant-Metzler):

Don't hate me for writing this, but so much wine comes into and goes out of my tasting room so quickly that I occasionally taste a wine without having any idea how the bottle came into my possession. This was a recent arrival from somebody, someplace, and I'm sincerely apologetic about not crediting the source, because the wine is outstanding. Blended from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Aligoté that was grown in limestone soils in the southern portion of Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise, this shows lovely expressiveness in terms of aroma and flavor, with interesting yeasty accents very nicely balanced against the restrained fruit notes. The texture is very refined, with quite delicate mousse and plenty of fresh acidity. Dosage is quite low, but the wine comes off as restrained rather than austere on account of fairly ripe fruit. Extremely well made, this should not be passed over because $23 is not much less costly than NV Champagne, now running around $40. The fact is that this is every bit as good as many NV Champagnes, which makes $23 look like a steal.
92 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2017

Olivier Morin, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) "Tentation" Brut NV ($24, Paris Wine Company):

From vineyards located close to Chablis, Olivier Morin follows traditional production methods for this Brut. A 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the cuvée was aged on the yeasts for 18 to 24 months. The color is light straw and the persistent bubbles are tiny. The aroma is all about yeasty-chalky fragrances with a hint of lime. Delicate in style, but absolutely bright and charming, it has plenty of acidity for balance and concludes with a refreshing lemon and mineral aftertaste. A pleasant surprise offering more charm than I usually find in Cremant de Bourgognes.
91 Norm Roby Sep 6, 2022

Albert Bichot, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Brut Réserve NV ($24):

Albert Bichot, like many of Burgundy’s top producers, owns vineyards — is a grower — and acts as a négociant, buying grapes/and or newly pressed juice from other growers. This elegant and refreshing Crémant falls into the latter category. Its tiny bubbles dance on the palate. With a stiff spine of acidity, it is a great celebratory aperitif yet substantial enough to cut through highly seasons dishes on the table. As an example, it would be a great choice for the plethora of flavors in an omakase meal.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2024

Domaine des Gandines, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) NV ($17):

Domaine des Gandines, a family run winery located in the Mâconnais, produces a variety of still white wines from that region, Viré-Clessé, and Macon-Peronne, that are available in the U.S. This Crémant, as good as it is -- and well priced to boot -- is not available yet, but hopefully that will change. Organically certified, the family has expanded the Domaine gradually since it was founded in 1925 to its current 25-acres. This Crémant, from their young Chardonnay vines, is pure and delicately fruity with substantial depth and length for a wine made from young vines. A double-duty wine, its suaveness makes drinking it as an aperitif a pleasure, while its density allows you to take it to the table.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2017

Domaine Michel Briday, Crémant de Bourgogne (France) Brut NV ($27, Vineyard Brands):

Michel and Lucette Briday created the winery estate with 15 acres in 1976. Today their 38 acres are managed by Michel’s son Stéphane and his wife Sandrine. Made in the traditional method with 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 20% Aligoté it is aged 12 to 16 months in bottle. It is a delightful wine with a pale yellow color and lively, tiny bubbles. Brimming with light citrusy and mineral aromas accompanied by soft apple, pear and citrus flavors, citrusy acidity. It is party-ready.
90 Rebecca Murphy Nov 21, 2023

Simonnet Febrve, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Brut Rosé NV ($18, Louis Latour USA): Crémant de Bourgogne, Burgundy’s sparkling wine, is often ignored, and rightly so, because so much of it is lean and mean. But when it is good, like this one, it’s an engaging aperitif and a great alternative to pricier Champagne. Made entirely from Pinot Noir, it delivers notes of strawberries and a lovely creaminess. It’s a steal, so stock up for the holidays. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012

Vincent, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) NV ($22, Frederick Wildman):

Jean-Jacques Vincent and son, Antoine, owners and winemakers of Château Fuissé, one of the very top estates in Pouilly-Fuissé, have, like many small growers in Burgundy, a négociant business in addition to their main domaine wines. This Crémant is just one of an astonishingly good and well-priced line of wines they produce under their négociant label, Vincent. (Crémant is a term for sparkling wines produced by traditional methods, but outside of the Champagne area.) Although any of the allowed Burgundy grapes can be used for Crémant de Bourgogne, Vincent uses Chardonnay exclusively, which explains the wine’s glorious elegance and persistence. And since the grapes come from around his base in the warmer Mâcon region, their Crémant has an appealing roundness balanced by a lovely creamy mousse. It’s a terrific alternative to Champagne. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2012

Vitteaut Alberti, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Brut Rosé NV ($35, Free Run Wine Merchants):

Spring is around the corner and I am welcoming its arrival with this sparking Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne. Founded in 1951, Vitteaut Alberti is a family-run winery focused solely on making quality Crémant de Bourgogne. Winemaker Agnes Vitteaut is the third generation to run the winery and has been methodically updating the winery since taking the helm in 2004. Her Brut Rosé is sourced from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune and is produced with 100% Pinot Noir. Done in the traditional method, the wine shows fine bubbles with baked apples, melon, brioche, and strawberry notes. This wine is easy to enjoy and will appeal to a wide audience thanks to its classical profile.
90 Vince Simmon Feb 27, 2024

JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) “No. 69” Brut Rosé NV ($18, Boisset America):

This seductive, salmon colored bubbly, made exclusively from Pinot Noir, will charm you. Slightly round without being soft or perceptively sweet, it conveys delicate, strawberry-like flavors buttressed by just the right amount of acidity. It’s a fine choice for any festive occasion, but priced so you could transform an ordinary Thursday night into something special.
88 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2013

JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) “No. 21” Brut NV ($18, Boisset America): Crémant de Bourgogne, a sparkling wine from Burgundy, is made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the same grapes used for the far more famous still wines of the region. Boisset, one of Burgundy’s top houses, makes particularly attractive Crémants. With delicate fruitiness, this one is clean, crisp and edgy, perfect for a summer’s aperitif but sturdy enough to go with a first course.
88 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2013

Simonnet-Febvre, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Brut Rosé NV ($18, Louis Latour USA): Crémant de Bourgogne is an often overlooked category of bubbly. In addition to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, producers are allowed to use other grapes, including Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Aligoté, Sacy, Melon de Bourgogne and even a little Gamay. Simonnet-Febvre’s is a beautifully crafted one, dry, but round with delicate wild strawberry-tinged nuances. A gorgeous pink color, it’s a great summertime aperitif while watching the sun go down. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 21, 2011

Simonnet-Febvre, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Rosé NV ($18, Louis Latour Inc.): Cremants (literally, creamy) have less pressure than Champagne and typically have a creamy texture on the palate, hence the name of the category. Combine that with strawberry tinged color and flavors and you have winning sparkling wine at a good price. Fresh, yet friendly, it's a crowd pleaser as a stand alone aperitif or to accompany a first course of smoked salmon. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 6, 2009

Veuve Ambal, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) NV ($16, Exclusive Imports Inc.): An aromatic French sparkler with floral aromas with fine, lively bubbles, this wine is fresh and crisp, with lemon-citrus flavors. 87 Tina Caputo Dec 21, 2010

JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset, Cremant de Bourgogne AOC (Burgundy, France) No. 69, Rosé NV ($25):

This cremant rosé, made in a brut style, stands out from the sea of ordinary cremant. Showing live acidity, it exhibits impressive freshness, with lovely notes of strawberry and citrus, uncommon length of the palate for a cremant, and a clean, lifted finish. This is one of proprietor Jean-Charles Boisset's finest efforts in the world of sparkling wine and at $25 it's a steal. A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Jun 12, 2018

Benjamin Leroux, Auxey-Duresse (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($45, Vineyard Roads):

Auxey-Duresses, a village slightly off Burgundy’s the beaten track, offers great values precisely for that reason. This white Burgundy punches far above its lowly village appellation, delivering bright and cutting minerality along with a hint of creaminess. Another bargain for what it is and another case in my cellar.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2019

Benjamin Leroux, Auxey-Duresses (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($44, Scott Paul Wines): Benjamin Leroux was a prodigy. He started working at Domaine Comte Armand at 15 and became winemaker at just 24. Now 35, he's making fabulous wines on his own, and has been working with this vineyard for 11 years. "It's not well known, like Saint Aubin was 10 years ago," he says. "It's very affordable because the price of the land is not expensive yet." So buy it now, because with quality like this it's only going to get pricier. The aroma is quite floral, with notes of mango and sea salt. Mango and floral notes lead off on the palate, and it finishes with salt de herbes de Provence. Lovely wine. 93 W. Blake Gray May 4, 2010

Morey-Blanc, Auxey-Duresses (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($45, Wilson Daniels): This family-run negociant house is part of the Pierre Morey clan. Pierre's daughter Anne is the cellarmaster and it's obvious she's cut from the same cloth as her father. This is a stylish white that has plenty of flesh without sacrificing any of its spine. Well balanced, it exhibits pure ripe pear flavors and a hint of spice. 89 Robert Whitley Dec 4, 2007

Domaine Leflaive, Bâtard-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($306, Wilson Daniels): Slightly more powerful than Leflaive's 2004 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, their Bâtard-Montrachet is a monumental achievement. Extraordinary lush at this young stage, especially for a young wine from Leflaive, it is no trace of heaviness. The panoply of flavors--fruit intermingled with minerality--boggles the mind because it is so seamless. Each taste bombards the brain with delight. 98 Michael Apstein Aug 21, 2007

Domaine Leflaive, Bâtard-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($355, Wilson Daniels): The unusually ripe flavors at this stage--for Leflaive--reflects the overall ripeness and power of the vintage. Still, there's no lack of supporting acid. Almost as tightly wound as their 2004, the 2005 Bâtard-Montrachet conveys hints of apricot and orange rind atop minerality. It's a marvelously complex, well-balance wine, as it should be, given the price. 96 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2007

Domaine Leflaive, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($270, Wilson Daniels): Whereas Lelflaive's Chevalier-Montrachet's calling card is power, the

2004 Batard-Montrachet is all elegance and class. It is leaner than the Chevalier, but has penetrating aromas of a lasar beam, with great concentration of citrus flavors. A substantial Burgundy with a long future. 96 Ed McCarthy Apr 10, 2007

Château de Lavernette, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Vignes de la Roche” 2013 ($20, T. Edward Wines): Yes, you read that correctly -- white Beaujolais. Though 95 percent of Beaujolais is red, a small amount of white wine made from Chardonnay is produced in the appellation. And it shouldn’t be surprising since Beaujolais borders the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, a well-known white Burgundy. Château de Lavernette’s 2013 is crisp, clean and refreshing with a distinct stony component that makes it very easy to recommend for current drinking. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2015

Jean-Paul Brun, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($16, Louis Dressner Selections):

Yes, it’s the Beaujolais Nouveau time of the year, and yes, 95% of Beaujolais is red, but that’s all the more reason to draw peoples’ attention to this wonderful Chardonnay-based wine. Jean-Paul Brun under the label of Terres Dorées redefines (red) Beaujolais. He also makes a masterful white version, entirely from Chardonnay, which actually does well in the granitic soil of the appellation. This one has an appealing creamy stoniness and uplifting vibrancy. It’s another fine choice for Thanksgiving for you last minute shoppers.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2014

Dominique Cornin, Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2008 ($18, Martine’s Wines): Beaujolais Blanc, which represents a very small proportion of the output of the appellation, is always made from Chardonnay and is a good alternative to Macon Villages. A subtle stoniness accompanies this one’s overt ripe fruit--almost melon-like flavors. Lively acidity keeps it fresh and clean. It’s easy to recommend. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 18, 2011

Château de Lavernette, Beaujolais-Blanc (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Les Vignes de la Roche” 2009 ($20, Vintage ’59 Imports): This is one of the most surprising wines that I’ve tasted during 2010. By way of background, I’m routinely underwhelmed by Gamay-based

red wines from Beaujolais, and consequently have certainly never sought out whites from Beaujolais. Besides, with amazing values and high quality Chardonnay issuing almost every year from the adjacent region of Mâcon, and in light of the obscurity and rarity of white Beaujolais, why bother? Well, here is a reason to bother. This wine is very fresh and highly refreshing, on one hand, but also quite generous and satisfying, with medium body and lovely aromas and flavors recalling peach fruit with floral undertones and snappy acidity suggesting tart apples in the finish. There’s also a delicate mineral tinge in the finish, and despite these interesting complexities the wine gives an overall impression of integrated harmony. Very impressive and thoroughly enjoyable--mea culpa! 91 Michael Franz Nov 9, 2010

Louis Latour, Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($27, Louis Latour Inc.): White Beaune accounts for about 5% of the appellation production and, as this wine shows, can be a terrific value. Always a little clunkier than its more famous neighbors, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, white wines from Beaune can deliver great enjoyment, especially at the price. Latour's 2006 white Beaune-100% Chardonnay--is more refined and focused than many, keeping in character with the style of their wines overall. Vibrant acidity balances the hints of earthiness and supports its buttery nuances. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 18, 2008

Maison Louis Latour, Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($30, Louis Latour Inc.): Although Beaune is rightly known for its red wines, it does produce a bit--just under 10%--of white wine from Chardonnay and offers an affordable introduction to white Burgundy from the Cote d'Or. Latour's is always a good example. Their 2006, with slight toastiness and creaminess to balance its earthiness, is forward and engaging. Even though it lacks the elegance of wines from Meursault or Puligny, it is a good value. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 6, 2009

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Mouches 2004 ($75, Dreyfus Ashby): Veronique Drouhin describes their Clos des Mouches as having 'the power of Corton and the elegance of Puligny.' You will get no argument from me. Their 2004, more forward than usual -- which makes it delightful now -- has beautiful balancing acidity that highlights its lushness. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Chanson Pere & Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Mouches 2004 ($88, Paterno): Chanson, with just over 11 acres, is the second largest owner of this prized vineyard after Drouhin. Chanson's rendition -- long, lush and redolent of white peaches -- maintains a lively freshness. The gentle oak aging enhances the overall effect. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine Bernard Morey et Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Grèves 2005 ($47, Vineyard Brands): Beaune is better known for its red wines rather than its whites. With the notable exceptions of Drouhin's Clos des Mouches and Jadot's Clos Blanc (also from the Grèves vineyard), the Beaune whites can be slightly clunky compared to their neighbors in Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. That's one of the reasons Bernard Morey's Beaune Grèves is so notable. It has uncommon finesse and class to accompany its minerality and ripe fruit. With the extraordinary prices of the 2005 Burgundies, this is one wine meriting a search. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2007

Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Grèves Domaine Gagey Le Clos Blanc 2010 ($57, Kobrand): The vast majority of the wines from Beaune are red, but there are a few

standout whites from this village and Jadot’s Beaune-Grèves Le Clos Blanc is one of them. The Gagey family (Pierre-Henry Gagey is President of Louis Jadot) owns the parcel of the vineyard from which the grapes come. This elegant 2010 is both mineraly and slightly creamy with good concentration and enlivening lemon-like acidity. Tightly wound at this stage, I’d give it a few years to unwind. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2012

Domaine Pernot-Bélicard, Beaune Blanc 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Pertuisots 2009 ($45, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Domaines & Saveurs Collection): The Pernot name has great cachet for white Burgundy since Domaine Paul Pernot, based in Puligny, is one of the region’s best. This Pernot, however, is Paul’s grandson and the vineyards come from his wife’s (Bélicard) side. Nonetheless, judging from this wine and their first year’s efforts, it will be another Pernot name to remember. Lovely creaminess combined with a stony element makes this a very pleasing wine. Many white wines from Beaune, an appellation better known for its reds, lack the class of Puligny- or Chassagne-Montrachet. This one does not. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2012

Domaine Chanson, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Mouches 2018 ($130, Vintus Wines):

A smooth as silk wine with subtle, dusty, Meyer lemon aromas. It is finely textured with citrus, white peach fruit, and orange zest, flavors, seamless and persistent in the mouth finishing with a faint whisper of honeysuckle and intensified by crisp acidity. From a producer established in 1750 and purchased and updated in 1999. They own 111 acres of Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in the heart of Burgundy, and they are farmed organically.
96 Rebecca Murphy Jan 24, 2023

Joseph Drouhin, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Mouches 2004 ($70, Dreyfus Ashby): Here's my white Burgundy problem: When it's good, it's very good, and when it's very good, it's very expensive. But if you ever might be inclined to take a big pop at a top-shelf white Burgundy, this vintage of Clos des Mouches from Drouhin is an exquisite example of a white Burgundy with bold structure and elegance, a wine that is toasty and rich without losing its minerality or crisp acidity. Clos des Mouches is one of the most revered premier cru vineyards in the Cote de Beaune. 94 Robert Whitley Jul 18, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Mouches 2007 ($102, Dreyfus Ashby):

This is one of the most long-lived of premier cru white Burgundy's and should be purchased with cellaring for a special occasion in mind. A special occasion far down the road. Beautifully structured for the long haul, this wine has serious backbone without sacrificing its famed elegance. Pure honey in the mouth, with notes of lemon creme, almond and a hint of wet stone. Another in a long line of outstanding vintages from this very special vineyard. Optimum drinking 2015-2025.

Joseph Drouhin, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Mouches 2010 ($120, Dreyfus Ashby): The vintage is superb and so is this exceptional premier cru from the house of Drouhin. Easily one of the best whites I've tasted from this outstanding vineyard (the vineyard is divided between plantings of chardonnay and pinot noir) the 2010 Clos des Mouches is exquisitely balanced, showing notes of lemon oil and baked bread, with a subtle smokiness that is particularly inviting. As with other whites from the 2010 vintage, the Clos des Mouches is more structured and elegant than the voluptuous 2009 vintage, but both are well above the average and will cellar well, though I suspect the 2010 will have the longer life between the two.
94 Robert Whitley Jan 15, 2013

Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Cras 2020 ($50, Louis Latour, USA):

Though at least 85 percent of wine from Beaune is red, a small amount of white come from that appellation. Latour’s white Aux Cras is one of the best. And because white Beaune lacks the cachet of the big three, Meursault, Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet, the wines are less expensive. Combine those two facts with the additional fact that the 2020 vintage was superb for whites and you have an easy-to-recommend white Burgundy. The 2020 Domaine Latour Beaune Aux Cras displays a graceful mineral aspect and riveting citrus vibrancy. Long and refined, it is satisfying even at this youthful stage, but has the requisite balance and verve to go the distance. I hate to call a $50 a bottle a bargain, but in the current context of Burgundy, it is.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2022

Domaine Paul Pernot, Bienvenues Batart Montrachet Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($115): An undeniably great wine, this shows the quantum leap in quality that can justify the leap in price from premier to grand cru white Burgundy. Rich and concentrated but also lithe and lively, it blends power with intricacy in the form of spice, toast, vanilla and mineral notes along with a nutty character, and somehow manages to present all of this sensory information in a package that seems integrated, symmetrical and harmonious. 94 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Domaine Leflaive, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($306, Wilson Daniels): Creamier and lusher at this stage than Leflaive's 2004 Chevalier-Montrachet, their Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet is perfectly balanced by a riveting citric acidity. An underpinning of minerality and earthy notes adds to the complexity. A faint hint of oak shows the deft hand of the winemaking team. A powerhouse to be sure, once again it is the elegance and length--not its power--that is captivating. 98 Michael Apstein Aug 21, 2007

Jean Claude Boisset, Borgougne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2014 ($22): A very crisp, bright Chardonnay that is long on lip smacking acidity and long on tart lemon and apple flavor. Very little if any oak character maintains the brightness of the fruit and keeps things on the refreshing side. A fine solo glass for warm weather or warm clothing.
91 Rich Cook Aug 15, 2017

Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2017 ($29, Vineyard Brands):

There’s no need to yell. I can hear you loud and clear: “92 Points for Bourgogne Blanc?” Damned straight…93 points, and if I’m off, I’m off on the low side. This is a terrific white Burgundy by any measure, which is to say, solely with regard to quality and not just on the strength of price or value. It shows impressively complex aromas for a quite young wine under screw cap, with subtle notes of toast and spices that indicate a portion was treated to not-entirely-neutral oak, and the nuanced aromas and flavors also seem to indicate some hands-on lees stirring, though this is a guess on my part. What is not a guess is that this tastes more refined and intricate than plenty of $50 village or Premier Cru whites from the Côtes de Beaune, with essentially perfect proportions of acidity, fruit, wood and minerals. The 2017 vintage is very, very strong for whites in Burgundy, and this is certainly an object lesson to that effect, but the lofty skills of this excellent house are also clearly on display in this wine.
93 Michael Franz Jun 25, 2019

Domaine de la Denante, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes 2019 ($19, Wine Agencies, Jeff Welburn Selections):

A better than it has to be Bourgogne Blanc, it reverberates with intense, vibrant and concentrated apple, peach, a bit of pink grapefruit, a dash of lime zest mingling with noted of vanilla, supported by piquant acidity. It is made by winemaker Damien Martin, whose father created the domaine in 1975 in Davayé, west of the city of Mâcon.
92 Rebecca Murphy Apr 27, 2021

Guillemot-Michel, Bourgogne (France) “Champ Choley” 2004 ($20, Kysela): This white Burgundy offers a wonderfully animated bouquet followed by nuanced yet
expressive flavors, reminiscent of apples, pears, toasted nuts and more. Richer than most wines labeled simply as 'Bourgogne,' it fades slightly in the finish, yet is overall extremely compelling. And given its firm acids, it should age well, and so delight for a good five more years. 90 Paul Lukacs May 8, 2007

Henri Gouges, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Blanc 2005 ($32, Vineyard Brands): Pinot Blanc, or at least Pinot Blanc identified publicly as such, is rare in Burgundy and can only be used in AC wines identified as Bourgogne Blanc. That's because the variety simply does not yield wines with as much stuffing and potential richness as Chardonnay. That said, this wine, from a very well-respected producer in Nuits-St.-George, outperforms the vast majority of Bourgogne Blancs made with Chardonnay. It's nuanced and subtle, with a bouquet that hints at pears and new-mown hay, long, layered fruit and mineral flavors, and a deliciously steely finish. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 22, 2008

Justin Girardin, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2019 ($20, Grape Expectations):

The Girardin family has been in Burgundy since 1570, and most of its present day vineyards are located either within or close to Santenay in the Cote d’Or. Justin, representing the 13th generation, took over the reins of the family business in 2017, and this is his entry level wine. Partially barrel fermented and aged in neutral oak, it delivers tons of burgundy character for the price. Light yellow in color, it displays bright green apple and lemon curd aromatics. Medium bodied and firm, it picks up definite mineral notes in its flavors to accompany the crisp apple theme. Finishes long and palate cleansing with a chalky-mineral aftertaste.
90 Norm Roby Jan 25, 2022

Vincent, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) "JJ" Blanc 2005 ($14, Wildman): This bargain priced wine is not to be missed. Vincent ranks as one of the finest--perhaps the fines--producer in Pouilly Fuisse, the most well known area in southern Burgundy, near Macon. Vincent has used his connections in the area and relationship with his neighbors to buy high quality grapes that he then presses and vinfies for this Bourgogne Blanc. A judicious used of oak aging means that a subtle creaminess enhances the inherent mineral and citric quality of the fruit. It's a far classier wine than either the price or the lowly appellation would indication. Breaking with French tradition, he puts 'Chardonnay' prominently on the front label to remind consumers that white Burgundy is made from that grape. The only reminder I need is to buy enough of it. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2006

Domaine Pierre Morey, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2003 ($26, Wilson Daniels, Ltd.): This crisp, nicely constructed Chardonnay has a light-medium gold color and a pleasing aroma of green apple and citrus. The tart-fruity flavors are like biting into a fresh apple. Clean, dry and fruity, the wine finishes with a mineral note. This is a pleasant drink-now Chardonnay. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 4, 2006

Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne (France) Chardonnay 2008 ($23, Wilson Daniels): A fine example of entry-level white Burgundy, with expressive fruit interlaced with chalky, mineral-like undertones, and a creamy, vanilla-tinged finish. The only downside is the price. I know the euro keeps giving the dollar a beating, but shouldn’t a basic Bourgogne Blanc cost less than $20? 89 Paul Lukacs May 24, 2011

Faiveley, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Blanc 2004 ($17, Wilson Daniels): I have been a fan of the 2004 white Burgundies since I tasted them in barrel. In the bottle they are, by and large, even better. To me, one sign of an excellent vintage is how well the wines at the bottom of the prestige pyramid, such as this simple Bourgogne, show. Faiveley, like many of producers of Bourgogne Blanc, put Chardonnay on the label to remind consumers that even these 'simple' white Burgundies are made exclusively from that grape. It has a lovely subtle creaminess and minerality buttressed by bright acidity that forcefully announces its place of origin. Fans of big, rich California Chardonnay might be disappointed by the lack of weight, but Burgundy lovers will be thrilled by the length and finesse from a wine with such a lowly pedigree. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 13, 2007

Jean-Marc Brocard, Bourgogne (France) "Kimmeridgian" 2005 ($15): Jean-Marc Brocard is one of the best producers in Chablis. From grapes grown in a 25-acre vineyard just outside of the area entitled to the Chablis appellation-but still within Burgundy-he makes this mineral-infused, almost spritzy white Burgundy. It's a pure-unmarred by oak-and fresh expression of Chardonnay grown in the region's famed Kimmeridgian limestone. It's better-and less expensive-than many producers' Chablis. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay "Véro" 2002 ($20, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Shy and inexpressive at first, this wine passes the unscientific test of ageworthiness in how beautifully it develops with air. Full-bodied, dry and crisp, it has broad, honeyed and minerally aromas and flavors, and very long length across the palate, as well as a fine, concentrated finish. A blend of villages-level wines (and therefore ineligible to carry the name of any one of them), this is a fine Burgundy at the price of a merely acceptable Chardonnay. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Oct 11, 2005

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Blanc "Les Sétilles" 2005 ($17, Frederick Wildman): When the wines at the lower end of the appellation controllee hierarchy, such as Olivier Leflaive's Bourgogne Blanc, are this good, it bodes well for the vintage as a whole. Leflaive always manages to find flavor and complexity at the low end of the prestige scale. His 2005 Bourgogne Blanc delivers as much enjoyment-creamy richness balanced by a refreshing citric edge-as many producers' more revered bottlings. Although he's adopting the New World's marketing strategy by plastering Chardonnay on the label, the wine has Old World finesse and elegance. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 22, 2006

Vincent Girardin, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) “Emotion de Terroirs” 2006 ($24, Vineyard Brands): Intro-level white Burgundies frequently prove disappointing, especially

when they say 'Chardonnay' on the label. This one, however, offers rich apple-scented fruit coupled with a distinct mineral-rich finish. It tastes delectable. Regardless of its 'emotion,' though, it does not express any specific terroir. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 25, 2008

Faiveley, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) "Georges Faiveley" 2004 ($17, Wilson Daniels): This impressive little wine really delivers, showing a clear and convincing character of white Burgundy and showing it at a remarkably affordable price. The fruit notes of apple and pear are accented with very faint wood influence and a nice little tinge of minerals. I confess that I always taste straight Bourgogne bottlings (whether white or red) with a wince, expecting to find anemic fruit and thin flavors, but this wine left me smiling. 87 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2006

Joseph Burrier, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay “Memoire du Terroir” 2006 ($20, ExCellars): Joseph Burrier, who owns the excellent Château de Beauregard in Pouilly Fuissé, also has a small eponymous négociant firm that produced this fine white wine. It's a good, solid example of white Burgundy--with creaminess and a hint of minerality enlivened by fresh acidity--at a very attractive price. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 29, 2008

Joesph Drouhin, Bourgogne (France) Chardonnay "Laforet" 2007 ($12, Dreyfus Ashby): Clean as a whistle and refreshing, Drouhin's Bourgogne blanc has to be one of the best values in white Burgundy. This is a simple but throughly enjoyable Chardonnay that's a bit on the lean side, especially the tart green apple aspect that dominates. There is the merest hint of wood on the backend, but not enough to interfere with your enjoyment of this wine with freshly shucked oysters or steamed mussels. 83 Robert Whitley Aug 19, 2008

François Carillon, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($27, Vineyard Brands):

Aligoté is the only white variety permitted in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, and there’s no doubt that it plays second fiddle to Chardonnay. However, its potential is much closer to Chardonnay than one would guess from most bottled renditions, as it rarely gets top-notch placement in vineyards or treatment in cellars. (As an aside, this same fate results in Pinot Blanc / Bianco being seriously undervalued.) Carillon, by contrast, has really devoted some serious effort to this wine, as evidenced by very alluring topnotes of grilled nuts and oak spice, which in turn show that Chardonnay didn’t monopolize all of the good, new-ish barrels in this excellent cellar. The fruit is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced, with ripe stone fruit flavors edged with zesty citrus acidity. Quite expressive and very pure regardless of the wood influence, this is straight-up delicious, and at $27, an indisputable bargain.
92 Michael Franz Sep 3, 2019

Domaine du Vieux College, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($21, Jeff Welburn Selection):

The Domaine du Vieux College lies in the village of Marsannay at the north end of the Côte de Nuits. Eric Guyard took over the family estate in 2006 and has crafted superb wines since then. While most of the estate is planted to Pinot Noir, there is a small patch of Aligoté as well. The Aligoté grape is most noted in the Côte Chalonnaise village of Bouzeron, but this wine offers evidence that it can succeed elsewhere. The excellent 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté reflects the best characteristics of the grape. Its crisp lemon and green apple fruit scents are interwoven with floral and herbal nuances. The flavors are equally bright and refreshing, with pure apple and citrus tones enhanced by delicate herbal tones. It will be a fine choice to pair with your favorite seafood recipe.
91 Wayne Belding Jul 13, 2021

Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($33): Based in Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, a family-owned and run domaine, is one of Burgundy’s stars for white wines. No question, their Bâtard-and Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet are stunning, albeit at triple digit prices. They put the same care that goes into those

Grand Crus into their Bourgogne Aligoté. Aligoté is the second permitted white grape in Burgundy and is planted in about 4,500 acres throughout the Côte d’Or and in the Chablis area (compared to 37,500 acres for Chardonnay). Aligoté can make thin and sharp wines and was, and still is, used to make a Kir, an aperitif made with a touch of cassis syrup poured into a glass of Aligoté. Pernot’s rendition, however, has remarkable depth and purity that would be wasted in a Kir. Instead, embrace this energetic wine with its citrus-tinged acidity the next time you need to cut through spicy Asian fare, steamed clams or other bivalves. My friend, John Hayes, refers to it as a “dust-buster.”
90 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2019

Confuron-Cotetidot, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($17, HP Selections): Along with Chardonnay, the Aligoté grape is permitted in Burgundy. It produces a high acid, bright wine that is often used as the base for Kir, the traditional local aperitif made by adding a splash of crème de cassis to a glass of it. Confuron-Cotetidot’s version is just fine without the cassis. Vibrant and edgy, it has enough body for balance. A friend of mine refers to it as a “dust buster” and likes it as an aperitif (without cassis) on a hot day because of its refreshing nature. Its cutting nature also makes it a good choice for spicy food. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011

Goisot, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) Aligoté 2011 ($18, Polaner): Aligoté is the “other” white grape officially allowed in Burgundy. It typically produces a lean, sometimes even astringent, white wine. It’s the mainstay for making a Kir, the aperitif that combines a high acid white wine with syrup of cassis. But when a talented producer, such as Goisot, makes a Bourgogne Aligoté, consumers should take note. This is a fresh, vibrant white with enough body and depth to carry the acidity. A friend of mine calls it a “dust buster.” And it is a terrific way to start a meal on a hot summer day.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013

Pierre Morey, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($20, Wilson Daniels): Pierre Morey, who recently stepped down as the winemaker at Domaine Leflaive to devote more time to his estate, is one of Burgundy's most talented winemakers. Best known for his terrific wines from Meursault--where his domaine is based--he also produces this Aligoté, the second white grape, after Chardonnay, in Burgundy. A good friend of mind refers to this and similarly structured Aligoté as 'dust-busters' because of their lip-smacking mouth-cleansing acidity. Many Aligoté are solely an acid shell, but not this one. It has mouth filling green-apple flavors and even a touch of creaminess that fills it out nicely. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Jean Boisselier, Bourgogne Aligoté AOP (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($25, Hemispheres):

Burgundy’s other white grape makes some pretty tasty wine, as evidenced here. A nose of white flowers, melon and pear translates well on the palate, and a viscous texture turns crisp in the finish. This could work with oysters as well as tossed green salads. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
93 Rich Cook Sep 28, 2021

Dupont-Fahn, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chaumes des Perrières 2020 ($52):

The story goes that a parcel of vines in the Merusault Perrières vineyard lost its exalted appellation classification when the owner added 10-inches or so of topsoil to replace that which had been washed away. That modification turned what is now called Chaumes des Perrières into Bourgogne Blanc — not even Meursault. It’s a nice story, which I cannot confirm, but after tasting the wine, it could well be true. Dupont-Fahn’s steely Chaumes des Perrières may not be Merusault Perrières, but it’s an exciting and riveting Bourgogne Blanc, ranking with the best of that category. Stoney, indeed, as the Perrières name suggests, it delivers plenty of oomph to balance the mineral-infused acidity. It gets high marks for delivering more than its lowly pedigree suggests.
94 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2024

Domaine Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($50, Wilson Daniels): Despite the hefty price tag for Bourgogne Blanc, this wine sells out rapidly because of the deservedly stellar reputation of Domaine Leflaive. Given the prices of Leflaive's other wines, it is often the only opportunity for many consumers to taste the brilliant wines coming from this Domaine. But I recommend it because it tastes more like Puligny-Montrachet than many wines that carry that village's name. Their 1999 Bourgogne Blanc, which I recently had with dinner at a restaurant, had evolved beautifully so there is no need to worry that this simple Bourgogne Blanc may not be built for the long haul. Toasty, vibrant and focused with a smoky minerality, I advise cellaring this wine for a few years to let its flavors unfold. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2007

Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2006 ($30, Ruby Wines): Bourgogne Blanc, the lowest level of category for white Burgundy, requires careful selection. They are never cheap (after all it is still Burgundy and Chardonnay), but often lack character because the grapes come from inferior sites. Those from superior producers, such as Domaine Leflaive, can be very pricey ($50), but offer insight into these producers' style. While Gambal, an up-and-coming grower and négociant, is not yet Leflaive, his 2006 Bourgogne Blanc is a marvelous wine in part because all of the grapes came from the heart of Burgundy, the Côte d'Or. It has a touch of minerality expected from Burgundy, an alluring creaminess and a hint of herbal elements that come together beautifully. Bright acid keeps it fresh and surprisingly long for a wine from such a 'simple' appellation. If it came from California it would be twice the price. Don't miss it. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 21, 2008

Benjamin Leroux, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($35, Vineyard Roads):

This is a fabulous value. Benjamin Leroux, the former winemaker at Comte Armand, the famed Pommard property, established his own estate in 2007. Now, like many small estates, has both his own grapes and buys some from growers he’s known over the years. This Bourgogne Blanc, comes mostly from his vineyard sites near Meursault supplemented by a little fruit from neighbors’ vineyards. It’s real white Burgundy, with a focus on mineral aspect as opposed to the fruitiness of Chardonnay. There’s a case of it in my cellar. How’s that for a recommendation.

Lucien Le Moine, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($62, vintus):

Like Lucien Le Moine's Bourgogne Rouge, the white punches far above its weight class. It delivers better concentration and depth than you would reasonably expect from this lowly appellation, especially since it weighs in at a modest 13 percent stated-alcohol. Powerful for Bourgogne Blanc, it displays the ideal balance of toasty, creamy, and mineraly elements. Although I suspect it will develop additional complexity with bottle age, it is seductive and charming now. So, reward yourself and pull the cork the next time you are sautéing scallops.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2022

Michel Bouzereau, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2010 ($22, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection):

Bouzereau’s Bourgogne Blanc is the deal of the summer because it delivers far far more than the price suggests. This should come as no surprise for three reasons: Bouzereau is one of the very best producers in Meursault, 2010 was an exceptionally good year for Burgundy (both red and white), and Jeanne Marie de Champs’ name on the back label is a guarantee of quality. Don’t be misled by the simple, down-market Bourgogne Blanc appellation of this wine. Bouzereau’s attention to details transforms grapes grown in this appellation into something special. The fruit comes from vineyards he owns that lie just outside of Meursault. Make no mistake; this Bourgogne Blanc has more character--a riveting minerality--than many producers’ Meursault. It’s authentic white Burgundy that’s perfect for this summer’s grilled fish.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013

Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($20, Winebow):

Created in 1937, “Bourgogne Blanc” is Burgundy’s general appellation for still white wines that are not covered under locale-specific appellations. The predominant grape variety included in the Bourgogne Blanc appellation is Chardonnay, with Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris the only other white grapes entitled to use the appellation. Pernot Belicard’s Bourgogne Blanc underscores freshness and complexity. It shows particularly well with medium-intense foods such as jollof rice, poultry, and white fish. Try it with classic sole meunière for example.
92 Marguerite Thomas Dec 8, 2020

Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($25):

The 2014 vintage for whites in Burgundy across appellations is exceptional, ranking with 2010 and 2008. The across-the-board quality is a boon for consumers because even wines from the lowliest appellations from top producers, such as Alex Gambal’s Bourgogne Blanc, shine. Gambal, an American who started in Burgundy about 20 years ago, both owns vineyards -- even a parcel of the famed Bâtard-Montrachet -- and buy grapes from his neighbors and colleagues. His 2014 Bourgogne Blanc has more depth and intrigue than you’d expect at the price. It’s classic white Burgundy with mineral-infused flavors and vivacity. If you’re looking for big California Chardonnay, look elsewhere. But for classic white Burgundy, look no further.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Domaine Paul Pernot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2017 ($26):

Domaine Paul Pernot, one of the leaders in Puligny-Montrachet, seemingly can do no wrong with their white wines. Year in and year out, my notes indicate you can buy any of his white wines and be happy. Take this Bourgogne Blanc, which comes exclusively from Chardonnay grown in plots located just outside the delineated area of Puligny-Montrachet. Delicate with hints of white flowers, it has charm and substance. Not the opulence of New World Chardonnay, Pernot’s Bourgogne Blanc has a lightness that belies its persistence and depth.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018

François Carillon, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2017 ($30, Vineyard Brands):

This is seriously delicious Bourgogne Blanc, and those are four words I don’t often group together. In this case, however, I really mean that it is both serious and delicious. Often wines in this general category are composed from odds and ends and young vines grown on flatland that taste pretty much like the word “flatland” sounds. But man, this is juicy and invitingly aromatic and impressively concentrated and braced with a nice little touch of toasty oak. In short, it tastes like fine white Burgundy (which indeed it is), but at a price most people would pay for standard issue Chardonnay from Sonoma or Monterey that would prove only half as complex.
91 Michael Franz Sep 3, 2019

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($18, Dreyfus Ashby):

Another trifecta here — Drouhin, a great producer. Twenty-twenty, a great vintage across the board for whites. Eighteen dollars, an excellent price for a wine of this quality. Bourgogne Blanc, made entirely from Chardonnay, can come from vineyards throughout the region, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. This one has the Drouhin signature of elegance, a touch of enticing creaminess, and terrific freshness and life. Not an opulent powerhouse, thankfully, it charms you with its poise. My advice: Stock up for the summer.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2022

Ballot Millot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($31, Polaner Selections):

Ballot Millot, a small grower based in Meursault, makes a consistently good line-up of Burgundy, both red and white. With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, consumers need to look to Burgundies with less prestigious labels, such as Bourgogne Blanc instead of Meursault. One of the nice things about buying regional wines, such as this one, from a grower is that it is virtually certain that the grapes come from areas near their estate. So, although Bourgogne Blanc legally might come from anywhere in Burgundy, including the Mâconnais, it is highly likely that this one comes entirely from the Côte de Beaune. It certainly tastes that way, with fine minerality and finesse. Crispness balances its intensity.
90 Michael Apstein May 7, 2019

Bouchard Père & Fils, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Réserve 2008 ($20, Henriot, Inc.): Really? Ninety points for straight Bourgogne Blanc? That’s right, and

for twenty bucks. This wine really shows the excellence of the 2008 vintage for white Burgundy, as the fruit and acidity are perfectly balanced against one another and the wine finishes with a tinge on minerality usually found only in much more expensive wines. Pair with shellfish or white-fleshed finfish. 90 Michael Franz Jun 21, 2011

Domain Michel Caillot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) "Les Herbeux" 2004 ($25, Chemin des Vins/Patrick Lesec Selections): Caillot's simple Bourgogne Blanc reinforces my opinion that 2004 white Burgundies are the wines to buy now. This outstanding wine has a Meursault-like intensity balanced by vibrant acidity that amplifies the finish. I would buy this by the case and drink it with great pleasure over the next couple of years. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007

Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($24, The Sorting Table): Although I’ve said it before, it’s worth repeating: 2008 is a fabulous vintage for white Burgundy. Even at the lowliest level, Bourgogne Blanc, the wines show richness and minerality buttressed by enlivening acidity. This one has a whiff of oak that amplifies its richness and great length that belies its pedigree. For those who want to see what the Burgundians do with Chardonnay, this is a good place to start. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2011

Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($31, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

When I visited the domaine last November, I was awed by Pernot’s line-up of 2017 whites. My assessment after the tasting was that Pernot made exceptional white wines in 2017, zesty and penetrating — a real success! You could safely buy any of their wines from their Bourgogne Blanc up to their Bâtard-Montrachet and be thrilled. So, when I saw their Bourgogne Blanc for sale, I snatched-up a case. Not surprisingly, it has closed up since last November, but its breeding still shines. Lacy and elegant, it reflects Pernot’s finesse-filled style. Those enamored with voluptuous New World Chardonnay will be disappointed, but those whose tastes run to sleek and chiseled wines will love it. I’d give even this “lowly” Bourgogne Blanc a year in the cellar for it to blossom.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2020

Hugues Pavelot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($25):

If you want subtle power and mouthwatering tension in your white Burgundy on the cheap, you can hardly do better than this $25 bottle. The 2018 Bourgogne Blanc opens in the glass with expressive aromas of green apple, lime blossom, and crushed stones. The palate offers a bright spine of acidity that structures the light tropical fruit notes. The wine ends with an invigoratingly clean, fresh finish. A charming wine intended for consumption now and over the next year or two.
90 Miranda Franco May 11, 2021

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Laforêt” 2012 ($14, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.):

The firm of Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best, is still family owned and operated. Though they own vineyards extensively throughout the region, they also have a talent for buying grapes and wines from other growers, blending them as needed, and bottling them under the Drouhin name. This wine demonstrates that when Drouhin puts their name of a bottle, it’s authentic Burgundy, be it a simple Bourgogne Blanc, such as this Laforêt, or one from an exalted Grand Cru vineyard. In a marketing tool directed to Americans, who, for the most part, are more interested in the grape than its origins, Chardonnay is prominently displayed on the front label, relegating the appellation, Bourgogne Blanc to the back of the bottle. But do not confuse this crisp stylish wine with an opulent New World Chardonnay. Drouhin has taken wines from throughout Burgundy -- a bit from Chablis, some from the Côte d’Or and the rest from the Mâconnais -- to make a thoroughly complete and accurate expression of white Burgundy, which focuses more on minerality than fruitiness, though it has enough of the latter. I cannot recommend this wine strongly enough--for those looking for unoaked Chardonnay, for those who want an introduction to white Burgundy, and yes, for those Burgundy lovers who don’t want to spend a fortune for the real thing. I know I’m being generous with a 90 point score, but rarely have I tasted such an exceptional wine at the price.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 7, 2015

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) "Laforet" 2008 ($11, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This is a sensational wine for the price. (Sherry-Lehmann in New York lists it for $7.95 on their website.) Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has managed to combine pleasing ripeness, subtle minerality and lively lemon-tinged acidity in this harmonious wine. A blend of Chardonnay from four regions of Burgundy--Mâconnais, Chalonnaise, Chablis and Côte d’Or--it captures the elegance and allure of white Burgundy. Buy it by the case! 90 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2009

Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy) Chardonnay 2010 ($16): One can tell that this is a negociant wine rather than an estate-grown domaine wine by the Joseph Faiveley designation, and the general categories of Bourgogne Blanc and Rouge are filled with mediocre wines, so you could be forgiven for underestimating this wine. Indeed, given how complex and compelling it turns out to be, I can’t imagine how anyone could manage not to underestimate it prior to tasting. It shows wonderful aromas of green apples, wet stones and light toast, following them up with flavors that are broad and substantial even though the wine has excellent linear drive and a sharply focused finish enlivened with fresh acidity and pronounced mineral notes. This may just be the most impressive of all the wines reviewed here, all things considered.
90 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

This sensational bargain is clearly marketed to New World wine drinkers with the word Chardonnay in large type emblazoned on the label. Marketing aside, with zesty energy and a hint of seductive creaminess, its flavor profile and character shouts -- in a refined way -- white Burgundy. This is a blend of Chardonnay-based wines from the Mâconnais, the Côte Chalonnaise, and importantly, the Côte d’Or. The inclusion of wine from the latter, and of course the stellar 2014 vintage for whites, explains why this Bourgogne Blanc stands out. I have extensive experience with how marvelously well Jadot’s wines develop with bottle age. Even this one, with its lowly Bourgogne Blanc appellation, will provide enjoyment for years to come, so buy it by the case -- or two.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Paul Pernot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2008 ($20, Louis Dressner Selection): The “lesser” white Burgundies from the 2008 vintage are just starting to appear on retailers’ shelves. This one by Pernot, a leading grower based in Puligny-Montrachet, helps confirm my impression that it will be a great vintage for white wines. Pernot makes stellar whites from his vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet. After tasting this Bourgogne Blanc I felt that there must be some wine from that village included in this bottling because it has far more sophistication and elegance than most producers’ Bourgogne Blanc, but Jeanne-Marie de Champs assures me that no wine from Puligny is in the blend. So it does appear that some people can make a silk purse from a sow’s ear. It delivers good ripeness buttressed by minerality and riveting acidity that amplifies the citrus flavors. Pernot puts Chardonnay on the label to remind us that even the lesser white Burgundies are made from that grape. This is a great value that’s not to be missed. A Jeanne-Marie de Champs selection. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2010

Pierre Boisson, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($21, Polaner): With more citrus notes than the Bourgogne Blanc of Bernard Moreau (also reviewed this week), Pierre Boisson’s version shows the plethora of styles of white Burgundy. Precise and flinty rather than opulent, its sleekness makes it easy to recommend. It would go nicely with simply grilled filled with a butter and caper sauce. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2011

Vincent Girardin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Saint-Vincent” 2006 ($23, Vineyard Brands): I tend to be skeptical of white Burgundies labeled as 'Chardonnay' (or reds labeled 'Pinot Noir'), suspecting that these are the producer's poorest cuvées. If that's the case with Girardin's Saint-Vincent, I can't wait to taste the other, appellation-designated wines. This one tastes delicious, with rich autumnal fruit flavors undergirded with echoes of woodsmoke and stony minerality. It evidences real complexity and tastes genuinely Burgundian. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 7, 2009

Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2004 ($27, Ruby Wines, Wine Warehouse and others):

Gambal, a young American, has expanded his négociant business by purchasing a vineyard, so expect to see even higher quality wines coming from this dedicated producer. But there's no reason to miss this creamy, crisp white Burgundy. Although pricier than many wines simply labeled Bourgogne Blanc, it delivers far more than its lowly appellation suggests and is considerably more refined and sophisticated than comparably priced California Chardonnays. 89 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2006

Domaine Michel Caillot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Les Herbeaux 2002 ($25, Patrick LeSec /Chemin des Vins): With the vast proportion of this wine coming from declassified Meursault, it is not surprising that Domaine Caillot has produced a very classy Bourgogne Blanc. It is an excellent rendition of the crisp, clean, not overdone style of Chardonnay. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006

J. J. Vincent, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2005 ($16, Wildman): Even if this wine were not such a great value, it would be a wine very much worth owning and drinking. It is a Bourgone Blanc sourced from the southern parts of the Burgundy region, the Maconnais, where Jean Jacques Vincent owns vineyards and makes his flagship wine, Château Fuissé, which is a Pouilly Fuissé. This Bourgogne Blanc is full-bodied, richly textured and fairly powerful with rather subdued, earthy flavors. It has the structural gravitas that you expect from Chardonnay, and the aroma/ flavor reluctance you expect from Burgundy. It pairs perfectly with a grilled portabello mushroom that is too earthy for a New World Chardonnay. It is very Burgundian in character, yet less austere than a more northerly appellation wine might be, boasting a ripeness and warmth of the south. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Nov 7, 2006

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Couvent des Jacobins” 2016 ($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Jadot is justly proud of their “simple” Bourgogne Blanc. The grapes — all Chardonnay — come from throughout Burgundy, allowing them to alter the blend as the vintage demands. With a slightly warmer vintage, they can include grapes from cooler continue to keep the wine fresh. This flexibility explains the extraordinary consistency of this Bourgogne Blanc. The 2016 combines a hint a creaminess with a pleasant citrus tang. Not a powerful New World-style Chardonnay, this Bourgogne Blanc is a good introduction to the charms of white Burgundy. Ready to drink now, it’s another wine to stock up on for a potential quarantine.
89 Michael Apstein Mar 24, 2020

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2006 ($22, Wildman): A rich, ripe white Burgundy that, in addition to plenty of Chardonnay fruit, offers subtle notes of roasted nuts and steely minerality. Those secondary flavors become more notable, and so the wine becomes more compelling, in the finish. The result is a harmonious whole that outperforms many simple Bourgogne Blancs. 89 Paul Lukacs Apr 14, 2009

Bernard Ambroise, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2000 ($20, Robert Kacher Selections): This delicious, Chardonnay-based wine from Burgundy features lots of character and class for the money, with fairly complex aromas of spicy apple, smoky oak and grilled nuts. Substantial and unusually concentrated for a white Burgundy in this relatively affordable price range, it is nevertheless nicely structured, with plenty of fresh acidity in the finish. The presence of a screw cap closure provides further evidence that cracks are developing in the unthinking, hidebound attachment of the French to their traditional corks. 88 Michael Franz Nov 21, 2006

Domaine Bernard Moreau, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2007 ($25, The Sorting Table): Bernard Moreau, based in Chassagne-Montrachet, made an excellent range of white wines in 2007. This Bourgogne Blanc--which he reminds consumers is made from Chardonnay by putting the grape name on the label--is focused, lean and racy, especially compared to California Chardonnay, but not austere. It's more stylish than you'd expect from a Bourgogne Blanc. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Domaine Sylvie and Thomas Morey, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($27, Louis Dressner Selections): Bernard Morey, owner of the eponymous Domaine based in Chassagne-Montrachet, has split it into two, giving half of the vines to each of his two sons, Thomas and Vincent, who now market them separately. Based on their 2007 whites, Thomas and his wife Sylvie have a bright future. This 100% Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc delivers good ripeness and engaging fleshiness to balance the acidity common to the white wines of the vintage. Smokey nuances supplement clean fruit flavors. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2008

Maison Faiveley, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($16, Frederick Wildman): I can’t speak too highly of the 2008 vintage in Burgundy for white wines. Even at the most basic level, Bourgogne Blanc, like this one, they show character and class. In less good years, this category of wine suffers from under ripeness and astringency. But 2008 gave the wines destined for Bourgogne Blanc added ripeness without sacrificing bracing acidity. Couple that with a fine producer, such as Faiveley, and you have a well-priced introduction to white Burgundy. Not an opulent California Chardonnay, Faiveley’s Bourgogne Blanc has verve and an engaging restrained creaminess. It’s perfect for current consumption with roast chicken. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 29, 2011

Maison J. J. Vincent, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($16, Frederick Wildman & Sons): This “simple” Bourgogne Blanc shows the talent of the wine making team at Vincent. It has a subtle creaminess atop the natural stoniness characteristic of Chardonnay from the Côte Mâconnais. It’s another easy choice for grilled or sautéed fish. And a bargain to boot. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2013 ($16, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):
It’s no surprise that Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, makes a fine “simple” Bourgogne Blanc. A blend of Chardonnay grown in the Côte d’Or, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Macon, it’s not so simple and is a great value. Though Chardonnay is plastered prominently on the label, this is not an opulent New World example. Rather it’s honest Burgundy, combining restrained fruitiness with vibrant acidity.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2015

Olivier Laflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) "Les Setilles" 2005 ($17, Frederick Wildman): Those who would love a Burgundy fix without the high price will find this yummy Bourgogne from Olivier Leflaive just what the doctor ordered. This is a Bourgogne composed of higher classification "village" wines from the Cote de Beaune communes of Meurseault (60 percent) and Puligny-Montrachet (40 percent). The fruit is pure, the structure crisp and refreshing, the palate long and complex - not the everyday Bourgogne blanc by any stretch of the imagination. Factor in the fact that '05 was a fabulous vintage in Burgundy and Olivier Leflaive is a Chardonnay specialist and you have a magical combination at a soothing price. 88 Robert Whitley Oct 3, 2006

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2010 ($19, Frederick Wildman): This bargain-priced Chardonnay-based Burgundy is a superb introduction to the white wines of the region. The grapes come from just outside the confines of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, between the villages and the road, and hence are entitled only to Bourgogne Blanc appellation. But don’t let its lowly pedigree fool you. This is real Burgundy with apple-like flavors, a little creaminess and spice. Buy it by the case because, despite its down market origins, Leflaive’s Les Sétilles ages beautifully--I had a 2006 last year that was marvelous--and prices for Burgundy are on their way up. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2014 ($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Need more evidence that the 2014 white Burgundies are terrific? Here, at the bottom of the Burgundy prestige ladder -- Bourgogne Blanc -- is a great bargain. Wines labeled Bourgogne Blanc can come from grapes -- always Chardonnay -- grown anywhere in Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. Even this lowly appellation succeeded in 2014, especially when produced by an excellent négociant, such as Olivier Leflaive. A subtle creaminess offsets the bright and vivid apple-like fruit in this wine. Drink now and during the summer.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 5, 2016

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2012 ($20, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Olivier Leflaive, a talented négociant based in Puligny-Montrachet, consistently produces top-notch white Burgundies at all levels. This east-to-enjoy Bourgogne Blanc, though coming from the low end of the prestige ladder, delivers far more than you’d expect from the price. It shows the charm of Chardonnay planted in this part of France. Forward with mineral-tinged fruitiness, it has remarkably vibrant acidity that makes it easy to recommend as a “go-to” Chardonnay-based wine.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 18, 2014

Verget, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Terres de Pierres” 2007 ($19, Ideal Wines): Buying Bourgogne Blanc--the lowliest appellation for white Burgundy--is always a gamble. But you can safely buy this one, from the négociant arm of Jean-Marie Guffens, by the case. Verget clearly selected from growers who opted to wait to harvest their Chardonnay because the ripe flavors nicely balance the vibrant acidity characteristic of the whites in 2007. There’s real substance to this wine that has far more complexity than expected from such a modest appellation. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2009

Domaine Henri Clerc et Fils, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Riaux” 2005 ($23, VOS Selections): The problem with regional Burgundy, such as Bourgogne Blanc, is it's reputation--frequently well-deserved--for being thin and under ripe. But recently talented producers have made this category--especially in a year like 2005--a place to find excellent values. Henri Clerc's Bourgogne Blanc comes from a vineyard near Puligny-Montrachet, and has some of that village's declassified wine in the blend. Less ripe than many 2005 whites, it has laser-like acidity and a hint of Puligny-like minerality. It's a good buy, but don't expect California ripeness in this Chardonnay-based wine. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 1, 2008

Girardin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) "Cuvée St. Vincent" 2005 ($22, Vineyard Brands): Ripe and concentrated, this 'simple' Bourgogne Blanc delivers more than expected, reflecting the excellence of the vintage. With less bracing acid than the 2004s, this wine is enjoyable now and likely to convert many a confirmed California Chardonnay fan. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (France) Chardonnay "Steel" 2012 ($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has fashioned this Bourgogne Blanc for the US by highlighting Chardonnay on the front label relegating the appellation to the back. The gray label and proprietary name, Steel, remind us this crisp white was fermented and aged in stainless steel to allow the subtle minerality and green apple-like fruitiness to shine. And they do. Those looking for opulent New World richness should look elsewhere. But those looking for vivacious, authentic white Burgundy will be happy. The screw cap closure keeps it fresh and makes it easy to enjoy a glass day after day.
87 Michael Apstein Oct 1, 2013

Remoissenet Père et Fils, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($30, The Sorting Table): The 2007 white Burgundies are just hitting retailers' shelves and warrant consumers' undivided attention. Those whites, such as this one, that have ripe flavors to balance the substantial acidity that is the hallmark of the vintage for the whites, are the ones to buy regardless of appellation. Fatter and riper than many of the 2007 whites, Remoissenet's Bourgogne Blanc has a subtle stone fruit--almost tropical--quality to it that harmonizes with its citric kick. It's an easy wine to recommend. 87 Michael Apstein Mar 24, 2009

Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Bourgogne Blanc AOC (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2017 ($29, Vineyard Brands):

This is reference quality for Bourgogne Blanc, attesting to the quality consciousness of the house of Matrot as well as the excellence of the 2017 vintage for whites from Burgundy. Lovely scents of grilled nuts and spices show that even Bourgogne Blanc is taken seriously in terms of cooperage at this address, and excellent balance of fruit and acidity makes for a very satisfying mid-palate impression followed by a bright, impressively lengthy finish with very appealing mineral accents. You could be excused for thinking that $29 is a lot to ask for a wine of this type, but trust me: you’d do a lot better to think of this as real white Burgundy for a lot less than one must usually pay.
92 Michael Franz Dec 10, 2019

Domaine Michel Bouzereau, Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($30):

With the 2017 vintage, regulators added a new sub-category, Côte d’Or, to Bourgogne, the very broad regional appellation that allowed grapes to come from anywhere in Burgundy. Wines labeled Bourgogne Côte d’Or mean that the grapes all come from the famed Côte d’Or, the very heart of Burgundy. Domaine Michel Bouzereau, one of the leading producers in Meursault has 10 acres of vines, a third of his domaine, that lie just outside the official limits of Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault. Grapes from these vines go into his stunning Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or. Their focused and mineral-laden 2017 is an impressive white Burgundy. Though not a village wine, it combines a Puligny-like minerality with a Meursault-like creaminess. It shows the enormous talent of this grower. Buy as much of it as you can afford.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2020

Domaine Paul Pernot et ses Fils, Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Domaine Paul Pernot, one of the top producers in Puligny-Montrachet, opts to use the new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, for this wine that they formerly labeled as Bourgogne Blanc. The new appellation requires that the grapes come exclusively from the Côte d’Or, the heart of Burgundy. ( For a wine labeled Bourgogne Blanc, the grapes could come from anywhere within Burgundy.) In Pernot’s case, nothing except the label has changed. The origin of the grapes remains the same, from parcels that lie outside of the delimited Puligny-Montrachet area. The delicate Pernot style and the high quality of the wine remains constant. The clean and crisp 2019 delivers peachy nuances, enlivened by good acidity. Long and refined, it represents an excellent expression of white Burgundy and remains a good value.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2021

Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2022 ($37, Jeanne-Marie de Champs):

Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau now runs this stellar domaine based in Meursault. Bouzereau has used the new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which indicates that all the grapes came from the Côte d’Or, the heart of Burgundy, as opposed to anywhere else in the region. Sixty percent of the grapes for this marvelous Bourgogne Blanc came from Meursault and the remainder from Puligny-Montrachet, but obviously, from outside of the village appellations. You wouldn’t know it from tasting the wine. Year in and year out, Michel Bouzereau’s Bourgogne Blanc is a stunning wine, and a great buy, and the 2022 is no different. Crisp and riveting, it delivers a marvelous and seamless combination of minerals and subtle fruitiness. Tasted blind, it would be easy to mistake it for a village Meursault, except, of course, for the price.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024

Domaine Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2021 ($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs):

I repeat what I’ve said before: Value in Burgundy these days is found at the lower pedigree appellations made by talented producers. Pernot Belicard is a great example of a top producer bottling exceptional white wines at every pedigree. The relatively new moniker, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, indicates that the grapes — Chardonnay, it is white Burgundy — come only from that revered heart of Burgundy and not from the Mâconnais or the Côte Chalonnaise. The energy inherent in the wines of the cooler 2021 vintage support the subtle creamy minerality of this wine. It has more depth than you’d expect from the appellation, which simply shows the talent of the producer. Pernot-Belicard’s 2020 Bourgogne Côte d'Or, which I also recommend highly, is a little richer, reflecting the warmth of that vintage, while the 2021 delivers a refreshing and mouth-cleansing raciness. There’s a case in my cellar, which is probably more meaningful as a recommendation than 93 points. There is also a case of the 2020 beside it. Get the point about the producer?
93 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2023

Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Côte-d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($34, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

The Pernot name is synonymous with great white Burgundy largely due to Domaine Paul Pernot in Puligny-Montrachet. But this being Burgundy, there are many estates with similar, or at least, overlapping names due to marriage and the French laws of inheritance. So, in the case of Pernot Belicard, the Pernot is Philippe, grandson of famous Paul. The Belicard is his wife, who brought vineyards with her when they married. It is abundantly clear from tasting Pernot Belicard’s wines over the years that the acorn did not fall far from the tree. In a word, the wines are stunning. The bad news is the limited availability, which is why — if you ever see them — just buy as much as your budget allows. This one, their largest production, comes from eight plots comprising just over 6-acres spread over the villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault. Obviously given the labeling, the vineyards lie outside of those with more revered appellations. They opt to use the relatively new moniker, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, to remind consumers that all the grapes came from there. Uplifting acidity ties the finesse-filled creaminess and its minerally edginess together. It has remarked depth and length for a regional wine. There is a case in my cellar, which probably says more than the 92 points I’ve given it.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2022

Domaine Guilhem et Jean Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre (Burgundy, France) Gueules de Loup 2017 ($35):

Goisot is a good example of why my mantra is producer, producer, producer. You can buy any of their wines and be thrilled. They are located in the far north of Burgundy, near Chablis and make an array of distinctive and captivating wines. Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, similar to Bourgogne Côtes d’Or, is a sub-category of Bourgogne. In this case, the grapes, still Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, come from a delimited area around the town of Auxerre, which lies just west of Chablis. Goisot’s 2017 Gueules de Loup (literally, mouth of the fox), a single vineyard wine, is flinty, lively and persistent.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2020

Maison Ambroise, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire (Burgundy, France) “Lettre d’Eloïse” 2010 ($20, Robert Kacher Selection): Don’t be put off by the appellation; there is nothing ordinary about this wine. Bertrand Amboise explains that the Chardonnay for this comes from “white soil,” just outside of Nuits St. Georges, which he says is perfect for the varietal. But the vines are located just outside of the limits for Bourgogne Blanc, hence the more global appellation of Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire. (Starting with the 2012 vintage, the appellation of Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire will be eliminated and the wine will be bottled under the newly created appellation, Coteaux Bourguignons). The location of the vines notwithstanding, it tastes like Bourgogne Blanc--and a very good one at that--to me. Ambroise attributes its character and quality to their “picking at the right time, not too late” and using only older and larger oak casks for aging. Vibrant acidity amplifies the suave creaminess and subtle minerality of this “ordinary” wine. It delivers far more enjoyment than the price suggests. Don’t miss it. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2012

Domaine Meo Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint Philibert Blanc 2004 ($30): Showing aristocratic character despite an origin in a plebian

appellation, this lovely wine shows a very classy, restrained and subtle fruit profile with excellent balance between ripeness and acidity. Oak influence is but modest, and a very pleasant minerality lends real complexity to the finish. 90 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Bertrand Ambroise, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($33, Robert Kacher Selections): The Hautes Côtes de Nuits--the hinterland above and behind the famous Côte de Nuits--is, like its famous neighbor, known mostly for red wine made exclusively from Pinot Noir. However, there is a little Chardonnay planted as well in the Hautes Côtes. The white wines, like this one, have a power and immediate impact--frequently at the expense of elegance--compared to the more famous ones from the Côte de Beaune. Ambroise’s, even with its attractive earthy intensity, is more restrained that the typical California Chardonnay. Its engaging rusticity and brightness makes it an excellent choice for an herb-roasted chicken with mushrooms. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 22, 2009

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint Philibert 2011 ($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Since the late 1980s when Jean Nicolas reclaimed previously leased vineyards and took over running the domaine, Méo-Camuzet has rapidly become among the star producers in Vosne-Romanée, with their top reds, Richebourg and Cros Parentoux, selling for $1,000 a bottle. His talent is evident in a white wine, rare in this part of Burgundy, made from Chardonnay grown on a vineyard they own exclusively up in the hills behind Vosne-Romanée. It’s not the usual creamy voluptuous white Burgundy you’d expect from the Côte de Beaune, but rather it’s a firmly structured mineral-filled wine that etches its presence on your palate -- in a very appealing way.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2013

Jayer-Gilles, Bourgogne-Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($26, Kermit Lynch): Aligoté, a minor white grape in Burgundy, usually makes a thin, acidic, slightly vegetal wine which is precisely why it is used for the popular and refreshing aperitif, Kir (made by mixing a teaspoon or so of crème de cassis with a glass of Aligoté). Jayer-Gilles's 2005 Aligoté stands by itself because of uncommon body and richness, partly due to the 2005 vintage, but mostly due, I suspect, to the producer's commitment to quality at every level. It still conveys the brightness of Aligoté--a 'dust buster' as a friend calls it--but with flesh. Do not use this Aligoté for making Kir. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2008

Maison Louis Jadot, Bouzeron (Burgundy, France) "Domaine Gagey" 2016 ($29, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Bouzeron is the only white wine appellation in Burgundy that prohibits Chardonnay in favor of another grape, Bourgogne Aligoté, because the soil is particularly well-suited to it. Although wines labeled Bourgogne Aligoté can been thin and harsh, the wines from Bouzeron generally are not. Indeed, that appellation is a wonderful source for zesty mineral-driven wines. This Jadot wine is bottled with the notation that it’s from the Domaine Gagey because the Gagey family (Pierre-Henri Gagey is currently President of Louis Jadot) purchased vineyards there several years ago. Not particularly fruity, this wine focuses on stony, mineral qualities. It has the hallmark Jadot breeding and balance. Fresh and lively with good density, it conveys none of the screaming acidity sometimes associated with Aligoté. It’s a bargain because the reputation of the appellation has not caught up to the quality of the wines. That will change.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018

Maison Louis Latour, Burgundy (France) Chardonnay “Grand Ardèche" Reserve 2019 ($29, Louis Latour, USA):

Clay and chalk soils characterize these Latour-owned vineyards. The vines are an average of twenty years old. This Chardonnay is lightly floral and honeyed on the nose along with a hint of vanilla, and fresh and lively on the palate. The 2019 Grand Ardèche Reserve is reasonably persistent and thoroughly delicious.
94 Marguerite Thomas Sep 27, 2022

Simonnet-Febvre, Burgundy (France) Cremant de Bourgogne NV ($15, Louis Latour): Buy this one by the case. This positively delicious, creamy sparkler made entirely from chardonnay is not to be missed. Simonnet-Febvre, the Chablis producer, has always been known for its Crémant and now that Maison Latour has purchased the firm, we should see more widespread distribution. It's the best $15 sparkling wine I've had this year. 92 Michael Apstein May 16, 2006

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy (France) Chardonnay "Laforet" 2006 ($11, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): To people (like me) who are accustomed to tasting rich California Chardonnays, this screwcapped wine makes for a refreshing change. With apple and pear aromas, this medium-bodied Chard is fresh, crisp and quite dry. It has apple and pear flavors, with grapefruit accents. Food friendly, and a very good value. 88 Tina Caputo Nov 25, 2008

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire” 2022 ($28):

Chablis remains one bright spot in Burgundy for consumers because its wines remain underpriced, and a great value compared to those from the Côte d’Or. What they may lack it opulence compared to New World Chardonnay or the Chardonnay-based wines from the Côte d’Or, they make up for with a riveting minerality and focus. There is no more consistent producer in Chablis than Jean-Marc Brocard. This stellar Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire bottling is an extraordinary village wine, combining a flintiness with depth that is uncommon outside a premier cru bottling. A delight to drink now, Brocard’s Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire bottling takes on a touch more weight with a couple of years of bottle age, so there’s no rush. I just bought six bottles of it and am kicking myself for not buying a case.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “V. V. 46” 2022 ($37):

The back label tells us the wine made from vines planted in 1946 is a tribute to Jean-Marc’s “spiritual” father, Louis Petit, “who taught him how to make the soil speak.” With more weight and density, it is a fabulous contrast to Brocard’s Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire, showing the impact of vine age. The floral V.V. 46 is riper and richer with less of the cutting edginess compared to the Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire. At this stage, its lushness blunts the tension typical of Chablis. The V.V. 46 is just a different expression of Chablis, conveying less minerality and more ripeness at this stage. Is one better than the other? I think not. I recommend both highly. They will appeal to different palates. For a real lesson, grab a bottle of each, invite some friends over, and learn something about Chablis.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024

Domaine Louis Michel, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Grand Cru Vaudésir 2002 ($60, Vineyard Brands): An outstanding Chablis from an excellent vintage, this wine sports crisp acidity to balance its full body, and is not oaked. Penetrating aromas of mineral and tart apple, along with a slightly leesy note, are intense and quite youthful. On the palate, similar flavors show the ripeness and very good concentration appropriate for a Grand Cru site. Very drinkable now, this will remain lovely for ten-plus years. 93 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Mar 7, 2006

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) "Sainte Claire" 2020 ($26, Boston Wine Company):

Chablis sits in the northernmost section of Burgundy in France’s northwest region, one of the chilliest places in France. Because of its cold weather this region typically produces white wines with abundant acidity -- crisp wines that tend to be less overtly fruity than Chardonnay from warmer regions. Brocard’s Chablis is from the estate’s 30 year-old vines that grow in the calcareous soil known as Kimmeridge clay, which is composed mostly of limestone layered with seashells. Other Kimmeridgian vineyard sites are found in several areas in the Burgundian wine region including Chablis, Pouilly, Sancerre and Champagne. Chablis’s Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée was designated on January 13, 1938. In this Chablis you may note the inviting aromatic presence of citrus, especially lemon, along with suggestions of other yellow fruits including peach. It is a Chablis that is notably balanced and tangy, with no oaky distraction.
93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 1, 2022

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) "Ste. Claire" 2019 ($24):

Jean-Marc Brocard, one of my favorite producers in Chablis, consistently makes a stunning array of wines. I can’t remember a wine from them that failed to impress. The family-run estate farms organically and shuns the use of new oak barrels because they want to emphasize the character the site imparts to the grapes. This one, a “simple” village Chablis, is outstanding — not simple at all. You can almost taste the limestone it’s so mineral-y and cutting. There’s real depth here, which is why it stands apart from so many other village Chablis wines and is more engaging than many producers’ premier crus. It’s a bargain for what it delivers. A delight to drink now, this wine will be perfect for summer seafood, so stock up. You and your guests will be pleased. There’s a case in my cellar.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 2, 2021

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Grand Cru Les Clos 2002 ($78, Dreyfus, Ashby): Drouhin's 2002 Les Clos, one of the best Grand Crus, is a great wine, but it needs time. It is rich, powerful, and minerally, with the concentration and depth of flavor lacking in the 2003 Vaudesir. Hold this beauty for another five years, at least. 93 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (France) Domaine de Vaudon 2004 ($24, Dreyfus Ashby): Made entirely from grapes grown by Drouhin, the Domaine de Vaudon receives a brief period of aging in oak barrels. The result is a great wine. On first taste, it is similar to their other village Chablis (above), but with air (and even the next day), its breeding and quality shows and Its flavors expand. The touch of oak enhances without intruding. Who knew village Chablis could be so captivating! 93 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005

William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Champs Royaux” 2008 ($23, Henriot):

There are many reasons why this Chablis thoroughly deserves the Platinum medal I awarded it at Critics Challenge. First is the high quality of the grapes, which were clearly harvested at the perfect moment when they were poised at that sweet spot between overly ripe and sugary, and under-ripe and sour. Another plus is the extraordinarily skilled winemaking that produced this beautiful wine imbued with many of the qualities one hopes for in Chablis, notably a balance between fruitiness, minerality and acidity. Also commendable, especially given what a stylish wine this is, is its affordable (for Burgundy) $23 price. 93 Marguerite Thomas Jul 6, 2010

Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret, Chablis (Burgundy, France) "Le Bas de Chapelot" 2019 ($43):

Eleni and Edouard Vocoret are new kids on the Chablis block. Chablis-lovers would be wise to remember their names. Their domaine, not even a decade old, is spread over about a dozen acres in Chablis. Traditionally, producers in Chablis have not focused on its lieux-dits (named sites) that are under the village umbrella compared to say, Meursault, for example. That’s one thing that distinguishes Eleni and Edouard Vocoret from the pack. They bottle several Chablis from specific plots spread across the appellation. Eleni explains that they wanted to show the differences among the plots since they were working them all the same way and vinifying the wines similarly. The other thing that distinguishes them from the pack is the high quality of their wines. This Le Bas de Chapelot has strikingly good minerality and verve. It outperforms many producers’ premier cru Chablis. Don’t miss it.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2022

Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret, Chablis (Burgundy, France) "Les Pargues" 2019 ($43):

This is another stunning example of Eleni and Edouard Vocoret’s talents. Like their Chablis Le Bas de Chapelot, their Les Pargues hits above its weight class, though with a slightly different profile. Flinty and stony, there’s a saline-like character in the finish. It also is incredible fresh and lively, especially considering the warmth of the 2019 vintage. Though that vintage produced riper Chablis in general with less energy than usual, Eleni and Edouard Vocoret have avoided that potential pitfall with their wines. Invite friends, taste these two wines side-by-side and see for yourself that all Chablis is not the same.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2022

Francine & Olivier Savary, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Sélection Vieilles Vignes 2020 ($36, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

In a world replete with Chardonnay wines, Chablis continues to stand out as the world’s most distinctive version of this widely planted grape. Francine & Olivier Savary’s excellent 2020 Chablis Sélection Vieilles Vignes reflects the best characteristics of the appellation. Sourced from 35+ year-old vines near the village of Maligny, it defines a classic Chablisienne style. Crisp green apple and lemon fruit scents are interwoven with floral, almond, herb and nut nuances plus the distinctive oyster-shell minerality of Chablis. The flavors are bright and refreshing, with pure apple and citrus tones enhanced by honey, nut, herb and oyster-shell elements. This is a classic and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis.
92 Wayne Belding Dec 13, 2022

Francine & Olivier Savary, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Sélection Vieilles Vignes 2016 ($34, Kermit Lynch):

In a world replete with Chardonnay wines, Chablis continues to stand out as the world’s most distinctive version of this widely planted grape. Francine & Olivier Savary’s excellent 2016 Chablis Sélection Vieilles Vignes reflects the best characteristics of the appellation. Sourced from 35+ year-old vines near the village of Maligny, it defines a classic Chablisienne style. Its crisp green apple and lemon fruit aromas are interwoven with floral, almond, herb and nut nuances plus the distinctive oyster-shell minerality of Chablis. The flavors are bright and refreshing, with pure apple and citrus tones enhanced by honey, nut, herb and oyster-shell elements. This is a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis.
92 Wayne Belding Dec 18, 2018

Francine et Olivier Savary, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($26, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):

Chablis continues to stand out as the world’s most distinctive version of the Chardonnay grape. Francine & Olivier Savary’s excellent 2018 Chablis reflects the best characteristics of the appellation. The crisp green apple and lemon fruit aromas are interwoven with floral, almond, herb, honey and oyster-shell minerality. The flavors are bright and refreshing, exemplifying the Chablisienne style. The ripe apple and citrus flavors show lovely purity of fruit enhanced by the honey, nut and herb elements. The texture is surprisingly rich, making this a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis.
92 Wayne Belding May 19, 2020

Gilbert Pic & Fils, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($26, Vintage '59):

My sense is that Pic isn’t widely known in north America, but this is among my favorite Chablis producers. I was not prepared to believe that the 2010 rendition of this strait AOC Chablis bottling could rise to the level of the marvelous 2008 bottling, but the fact is that this may be even a little better. Admirably concentrated for a wine at this level, with full ripeness but also terrific definition and drive thanks to lots of energetic, lime-tinged acidity. Intensely mineral in the finish, this is enduringly interesting sip after sip. 92 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2012

Gilbert Picq & Fils, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($30, Vintage ’59 Imports): Picq is an under-the-radar star among producers in Chablis, and this excellent wine shows him at the top of his game. Lean but extremely energetic, this wine displays lots of lip-smacking acidity that provides exceptional drive to the fruit, which recalls tart apples and a bit of citrus on the edge. Intensely mineral in the finish, this will not only hold its own but actually improve for years to come, which is the case for Picq’s wines even in growing seasons that aren’t up to 2010’s excellence. 92 Michael Franz Jan 29, 2013

Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012 ($26): Jean Marc Brocard, always one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a stunning array of wines in 2012. This one, from old vines, whose average age is 68 years, is one of the best village Chablis I’ve ever had. With wonderful intensity--but no heaviness--and balance, it has penetration, energy and extraordinary length, especially for a village wine. Its cutting edge makes your mouth sparkle. Shellfish anyone?
92 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2014

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Domaine Sainte Claire 2010 ($19, Elite Wines Imports):

Brocard is an excellent Chablis producer and 2010 is a manifestly excellent vintage for the appellation, so the excellence of this wine isn’t entirely surprising. Nevertheless, it still proves surprising, thanks to its supremely energetic acidity and highly expressive minerality, which make it taste like a much more expensive wine sourced from a Premier Cru or even a Grand Cru vineyard. Considered in the context of under-$20 wines, this is indisputably a show-stopper. 92 Michael Franz Jun 26, 2012

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire” 2017 ($35):

What a great village Chablis! It demonstrates the importance of the producer and old vines. With this wine, Jean-Marc Brocard, one of the region’s top growers, delivers more character and clarity than many producers’ premier cru. Flinty and precise, it cuts a gorgeous profile. It’s a classic Chablis whose charms seem endless. Its invigorating citrus-like minerality keeps it fresh and demands another sip.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 24, 2020

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire” 2017 ($25):

Chablis growers suffered from serious crop reduction in 2017 due to serious spring frosts, and resulting price hikes are apparent on the wines now reaching our shores. That makes it especially important to seek out producers known for quality and reasonable prices, and it happens that Brocard fits both of those descriptions. The price hike shows here, as I purchased lots of this wine in 2014 for prices in the teens, but there’s no point in lamenting the fact that that opportunity has passed. This 2017 is delicious, with excellent freshness (to be expected, at this stage) but also very good depth of flavor and quite strong minerality.
92 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2018

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire" 2019 ($25):

Simple advice: Buy whatever wines from Jean-Marc Brocard your budget allows. A leader in organic and biodynamic viticulture, Jean-Marc Brocard makes fabulous Chablis, from the “simple” village ones to the Grand Crus. His Sainte Claire bottling is a step up from his generic village Chablis and always over delivers for the price. The 2020 fits that mold. This is classic vibrant and minerally Chablis, with unusual depth and persistence for a village wine. I bought a case for my cellar. I suggest you do the same.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 13, 2022

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Premier Cru Séchers 2004 ($34, Dreyfus, Ashby): Séchers is a Premier Cru vineyard that is not quite so famous as a few of the others, but right now Drouhin's elegant 2004 Séchers is drinking beautifully. It has focused, minerally flavor, great depth, and lots of finesse. Chardonnay at its best. 92 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Paul Nicolle, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2018 ($27, Paris Wine Company):

Chablis continues to stand out as the world’s most distinctive version of the Chardonnay grape. Paul Nicolle’s excellent 2018 Chablis Vieilles Vignes reflects the best characteristics of the appellation. Sourced from 25 to 30 year-old vines grown on Kimmeridgian soils around the village of Fleys, it defines a classic Chablisienne style. Its crisp lemon and green apple fruit scents are interwoven with floral, almond and herb nuances plus the distinctive oyster-shell minerality of Chablis. The flavors are equally bright and refreshing, with pure apple and citrus tones enhanced by honey, nut, herb and oyster-shell elements. The wine has a rich texture that recalls a fine Premier Cru Chablis in quality but it remains at a village Chablis price. This is a delicious and classic Chablis.
92 Wayne Belding Aug 4, 2020

William Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2021 ($35, Maisons & Domaines Henriot America):

William Fevre’s 2021 Chablis is a beautiful golden lemon color in the glass. The wine shows a complex and delicate bouquet of scents, with notes of lemon rind, a touch of lime, a hint of limestone, a bit of pineapple, white blossoms, and a subtle yeasty bread-like note. On the palate, the wine is vivid and vibrant, with juicy flavors of lemon meringue, tart pineapple, and ripe yellow apple. The acidity is sky high. While the wine is engaging and interesting, it loses some of the nuance and delicacy that one might hope to find in Chablis.
92 John McDermott Dec 12, 2023

Domaine Bernard Defaix, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Vielles Vignes” 2005 ($21, Winebow): From an excellent vintage in Chablis, this 'village' wine offers equally excellent value. Though somewhat tight and austere when first opened, it develops quickly with exposure to air in glass or decanter to reveal seductive tart apple fruit flavors enhanced by underlying minerality. The balance of fruit and acidity seems just right, so it should age gracefully for a good five years or so. Still, the wine is so tasty now that it will be hard to wait. Restaurateurs should take note of it, as the price makes it a very attractive choice for by-the-glass pours. 91 Paul Lukacs Aug 21, 2007

Drouhin Vaudon, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2011 ($28, Dreyfus-Ashby):

Despite their location in Beaune, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is well established in Chablis where they own many choice vineyards. Indeed, half of all of the vineyards Drouhin owns are located in Chablis. Beginning with the 2008 vintage, all of their Chablis, from village wines to Grand Cru, will carry the name of their Chablis estate, Vaudon, on the label as a way of emphasizing their commitment to the appellation. The grapes for this village Chablis come entirely from their vineyards. It’s as good a village wine as you’ll see, and more focused and reflective of the region than many a producer’s Premier Crus. A riveting minerality, edgy acidity and a haunting finish make it worth the premium over their regular (négociant) village Chablis (also reviewed this week). Wines like this explain why Chablis remains popular.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2013

Gilbert Picq & Fils, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($25, Vintage ’59 Imports): WRO columnist Michael Apstein has argued that Chablis is the

world’s greatest wine bargain, and though I’m not quite convinced about that, this bottle is a pretty damned convincing piece of evidence for his thesis. Linear and light in style, it nevertheless packs an amazing amount of flavor onto a very lean frame, with green apple and citrus fruit leading into an intensely mineral finish. I tasted this alongside this fine producer’s Premier Cru Vosgros bottling, which was very slightly better at $37, but this straight AOC Chablis is the one to buy for value. 91 Michael Franz Jun 21, 2011

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy) “Sainte Claire” 2010 ($19): The 2010 vintage for white Burgundy in general, and for Chablis in particular, is fabulous. Combine the quality of the vintage with a top-notch producer, such as Jean-Marc Brocard, and you have an unbeatable combination. Mineraly, piercing and precise, this stellar village wine has the stature of a premier cru from many producers. It’s an ideal choice for anything from the sea. Don’t miss it. It’s rare to find this quality at this price.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2013

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Reserve de Vaudon” 2008 ($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Although I reviewed and recommended this wine in July of 2010 (see archives), I’ve tasted it twice since then. It’s worth reminding readers this is a stunningly good value that should not be missed. Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, has an impressive presence in Chablis, where they own 95 acres of well-situated vineyards. The Reserve de Vaudon indicates the wine comes from their grapes. Combine that with the astounding 2008 vintage and you have a spectacular Chablis for the price. It has the minerality you’d expect from top-flight Chablis, but also an extraordinary length and complexity rarely seen in a village wine. Reducing a wine to a score never tells the full story--so let me amplify my enthusiasm for the wine--I’ve put two cases of it in my cellar. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2011

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Premier Cru Montmains 2004 ($34, Dreyfus, Ashby): Montmains is reputed to be one of the best Premier Cru vineyards. The 2004 Drouhin Montmains is a bigger, broader wine than the more delicate Séchers, but is also a bit closed right now. Give it five or more years of aging, and it should be wonderful. Chablis-Montmains has great longevity in the better vintages. 91 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Premier Cru 2004 ($29, Dreyfus, Ashby): All of Drouhin's Premier Cru and Grand Cru Chablis are barrel fermented and aged in oak, but the basic Premier Cru, a blend of three Premier Cru vineyards, does not taste oaky at all. This 2004 Premier Cru is clearly a step up from the straight Chablis bottling, with broader, more concentrated orange and lemon peel flavors. It is minerally, quite full, and enjoyable now, although it should be even better in three or for years. 91 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2013 ($32, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Though based in Beaune and known best as a top Burgundy négociant, Maison Joseph Drouhin consistently produces excellent Chablis from its extensive holdings there. Its Chablis, “Réserve de Vaudon,” comes from the Vallée de Vauvillien, which is located between Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre, two of the best Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. Drouhin owns almost 15 acres in the Vallée de Vauvillien and though the Réserve de Vaudon is classified as a village wine, it consistently delivers more excitement and energy than many producers’ Premier Crus. The 2013 Réserve de Vaudon delivers the quintessential stony flintiness of fine Chablis, but it’s magnified by the wine’s vivacity. Yes, it’s pricier than most village Chablis. But it’s also far better than its appellation suggests, which makes it a good buy. It will brighten any seafood, from grilled swordfish to a heftier bluefish in a tomato caper sauce.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 29, 2015

La Chablisienne, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Le Finage” 2022 ($36, Demeine Estates):

While I like white wines of all weights and textures, I’ll have to admit I often prefer the leaner, more minerally presentation of everyday Chablis to the crus – not always, but often. I think it’s because so many cru Chablis seem to be competing with Côtes d’Or Chardonnays, and that’s a losing battle. A bit of heretical thinking, perhaps, but there it is. All this is background for why I prefer (and actually think it a better wine) this regional Chablis to the brand’s Fourchaume Premier Cru at twice the price. This one is an elegant, almost delicate white, with light green apple and quince flavors, sparkling acid, river stone minerality, light on the alcohol and a citrus peel finish.
91 Roger Morris Jun 13, 2023

La Chablisienne, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Pierrelée” 2019 ($33, Demeine Estates):

Lower yields and drought in 2019 contributed to a concentrated, heady profile for La Chablisienne's La Pierrelée Chablis. Combine that with 12 months of fine lees aging and the result is a wine suggesting notes of cream, clove, and bright lemon zest. The wine finishes with a pleasantly, rounded, bitter note. For the money, this is a great Chablis, and it paired wonderfully with the lemon pepper chicken wings we were enjoying!
91 John McDermott Feb 6, 2024

William Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Champs Royaux” 2018 ($25, Maisons & Domaines Henriot):

The William Fevre “Champs Royaux” is a great value in Chablis, one that I’ve found for under twenty dollars in the states. It’s a classic, clean example, with fresh apple and pear, mild herbs and the signature stony streak, and it is immediately approachable. A fine bottle to enjoy while aging your Grand Crus.
91 Rich Cook Oct 29, 2019

William Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Champs Royaux” 2018 ($29, Maisons, Marques and Domaines):

This is my favorite style of Chardonnay, in which the white peach, Meyer lemon, green apple fruit is layered with subtle floral and chalky mineral notes. It’s on the lean side, but not austere, in fact the very warm 2018 vintage insured ripe fruit, which softens any edges along with a few months in neutral oak barrels for a small portion of the wine. Vibrant acidity ensures a mouthwatering finish. It will pair well with fish and chips or a cheese fondue. In 1959 William Fevre began making wines under the name of Domaine de la Maladiere. In 1998 he retired, having sold his winery to the Henriot company. Today the winery owns over 192 acres of vineyards with 40 percent in Premier Cru and Grand Cru areas. Didier Séguier is the winemaker/cellar master. He was working at another Henriot Burgundian winery when the Fevre property was acquired. The vineyards have been farmed organically since 2006 and some have been farmed biodynamically since 2010. Séguier believes they are seeing a better expression of terroir as a result.
91 Rebecca Murphy Dec 8, 2020

William Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($35, Henriot): Sourced entirely from estate vineyards (as opposed to the “Champs Royaux” bottling from Fevre, which utilizes purchased fruit), this wine shows superior depth and dimension but the same energetic acidity and interesting minerality. The finish is beautifully focused and impressively persistent.
91 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2013

Alice et Olivier De Moor, Chablis (Burgundy, France) "Rosette" 2004 ($32, Vintage '59 Imports): This is one of two very fine Chablis bottlings from this producer, and it struck me as the slightly more complex of the two, with beautifully balanced fruit and prominent minerality. Wood and lees contact seem to have imparted an influence that could hardly be more subtle while still being discernable, suggesting that this is the product of very careful, tasteful winemaking. 90 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2006

Alice et Olivier De Moor, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Rosette” 2005 ($35, Vintage '59 Imports):

This wine starts off in a very subtle manner, but shows more depth and dimension shortly after opening, and then gets more and more expressive over time. My sample was actually notably better on its second day after having been stashed, uncorked, in the refrigerator overnight. Once unwound, it is unusually rich and concentrated for a straight AOC Chablis, with deep flavors of baked apple interlaced with mineral notes and lifted by fresh acidity. Very well integrated, it is an impressive Chablis. 90 Michael Franz Mar 25, 2008

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($28, Wildman):

Judging from Moreau's spectacular array of Chablis, that part of Burgundy was extremely successful in 2007. This classically proportioned Chablis has an attractive lean quality, but plenty of minerality and a laser-like focus. Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel, those consumers looking for 'unoaked Chardonnay' should clamor for this wine because it accurately reflects the marriage of the grape with the site. It's a lovely foil for simply grilled or sautéed fish or shellfish. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($25, Frederick Wildman & Sons):

Chablis remains one of, if not the best, values for white wine. Always made exclusively from Chardonnay, Chablis, when produced by dedicated growers such as Christian Moreau, delivers a unique profile of flintiness and verve, even at this lower end of the prestige ladder. This village wine, with its stony quality, delivers more enjoyment than many Chardonnay based wines costing far more. Not an opulent buttery style, its cutting edginess makes it an ideal accompaniment to grilled shrimp or shellfish.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2014

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($25): The 2010 vintage was great for white Burgundies in general and for Chablis in particular. And there’s no question that Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils is one of the leading producers in Chablis. Year after year, this domaine produces classically structured, distinctive wines that reflect their origins beautifully. Moreau captures the uniqueness of the appellation with this “simple” village wine. Unencumbered by oak, its stony and vibrant character reflects the uniqueness of Chardonnay grown in this appellation. It’s great for simple seafood or shellfish. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2012

Domaine Long-Depaquit, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($20): Domaine Long-Depaquit, owned by the top-notch Beaune-based négociant, Albert Bichot, is one of the best estates in Chablis. Domaine Long-Depaquit is the sole owner of an icon of Chablis, La Moutonne, a unique Grand Cru that encompasses vines in both the vineyards of Vaudésir and Les Preuses. Equally notable -- for what it is -- is their village Chablis. Grand Cru it is not, nor is the price. It is an exceptional village wine, reflecting the unique flinty mineral aspect of the appellation. With good concentration, depth, and an enlivening freshness, it’s a fine expression of Chablis. It shows you need not drink Grand Cru to appreciate the wonders of Chablis. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2017

Domaine Long-Depaquit, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($24, Albert Bichot USA):

Long-Depaquit’s excellent 2016 village Chablis shows the classic style of the region and the vibrant character of the Chardonnay grape crafted in a Chablisienne style. The nose offers ripe lemon and green apple fruits with the characteristic oyster-shell minerality of the village. The bright and vivid fruit is enhanced by nuances of fresh flowers, marjoram and almonds. The flavors are pure and refreshing with the juicy apple and citrus fruits backed by nutty and herbal elements and a surprisingly rich texture. The finish is long and, again, refreshing. It’s a perfect match for fresh fish or shellfish.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 17, 2018

Domaine Vocoret et Fils, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($22): The 2010 vintage produced classically structured, hard-to-resist white Burgundies. The Chablis region was particularly successful that year, with village wines from top producers, like this one, giving as much enjoyment as premier cru from lesser years. The minerality in Vocoret’s village Chablis is striking. Its firm edginess persists long after the wine’s left your mouth. Though it was an ideal match for sautéed soft shell crab, it should be equally attractive with steamed clams or other shellfish and grilled fish.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013

Domaine Vrignaud, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($30, Cape Classics):

This is a fine Chablis from the 2015 vintage, which didn't produce wines loved by acid freaks as did 2014, but turned out gentle, satisfying wines on a larger scale. Assembled from multiple plots, this was aged on its lees for eight months, which further enhances the wine's relative richness (for Chablis), but aging was performed entirely in steel tanks, which helped retain freshness. Whereas the 2014 was destined for pairing with oysters, match this with sauteed scallops.
90 Michael Franz Nov 28, 2017

Francine & Olivier Savary, Chablis (Burgundy) 2013 ($26, Kermit Lynch): In a world awash in Chardonnay wines, Chablis continues to stand out as the world’s most distinctive version of this widely planted grape. Francine & Olivier Savary’s excellent 2013 Chablis reflects the best characteristics of the appellation. The crisp green apple and lemon fruit aromas are interwoven with floral, almond, herb, honey and oyster-shell minerality. The flavors are bright and refreshing, exemplifying the Chablisienne style. The apple and citrus flavors show lovely purity and the honey, nut and herb elements make this a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis. 90 Wayne Belding Feb 3, 2015

Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire” 2012 ($20):

Borcard hit a bull’s eye with their Chablis in 2012, a relatively riper year. They harvested a bit early and captured gorgeous mouth-watering acidity in their entire line of wines. Their village Chablis, dubbed Sainte Claire, is an extraordinary value given the complexity and verve it delivers. Consumers looking for the grandeur of “unoaked” Chardonnay need to look no further. It’s mineraly and zesty -- and not to be missed.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 18, 2014

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Domaine Sainte Claire "Vieilles Vignes" 2004 ($16, Various importers): Wines made from vieilles vignes -- old vines -- have an extra dimension because the roots go deep, extracting additional elements from the earth. This well-priced wine has intensity without losing the classic minerality you expect from Chablis. It's one of the exceptional values from the 2004 vintage. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($25, European Cellars): Droin’s excellent 2014 village Chablis shows the classic style of the region. The nose offers ripe lemon and green apple fruits with the characteristic oyster-shell minerality of the village. The vivid fruit is enhanced by hints of white flowers, marjoram and almonds. The flavors are pure and refreshing with the juicy apple and citrus fruits backed by nutty and herbal elements and a surprisingly rich texture. The finish is long and refreshing. It’s a perfect match for fresh fish or shellfish.
90 Wayne Belding Sep 29, 2015

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2012 ($23, Dreyfus Ashby):

Though based in Beaune in the Côte d’Or, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns substantial vineyards in Chablis. Their Réserve de Vaudon, made from grapes grown in their vineyards, is a perfect way to discover this unique style of Chardonnay. Though quite concentrated because of the small yields in 2012, their Réserve de Vaudon maintains a fine flinty edginess. Drouhin eschews oak aging for this Chablis, which allows the minerality of the region to shine. Although it’s a classic accompaniment for oysters, Drouhin’s Réserve de Vaudon is a fine choice for Thanksgiving because of its piercing acidity.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Domaine de Vaudon 2004 ($23, Dreyfus, Ashby): The single-estate Domaine de Vaudon, perhaps Drouhins greatest Chablis value, although not a Premier Cru, lies between two of the best Premier Cru vineyards Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre. Aged a few months in 50 percent new oak, 50 percent stainless steel, the 2004 de Vaudon has more penetrating flavors and more depth than the Chablis AC, with just a slight increase in price. 90 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

La Chablisienne, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Sereine” 2019 ($33, Demeine Estates):

La Chablisienne's 2019 La Sereine Chablis pours a delicate, golden yellow hue in the glass. The bouquet is exceedingly subtle, with pretty notes of pear and lees. In the mouth, the wine shows brighter green and golden apple notes with a slight creamy note on the end. While not the most complex wine, it is enjoyable nonetheless. Drink on its own or with delicate flavor profiles, as this wine will be easily overwhelmed.
90 John McDermott Jan 23, 2024

Laroche, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($20, Remy Cointreau USA): This is an extraordinary value in Chablis at this price, as it offers

remarkable quality for a straight AOC bottling at a $20 price. Appropriately light but certainly not insubstantial, it features deliciously crisp flavors of green apple and stone fruits with very expressive mineral aromas and flavors that mark this unmistakably as a wine from Chablis. 90 Michael Franz Feb 19, 2008

Laurent Tribut, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($24, Vineyard Brands): Gorgeously crisp, weaving together an intricate tapestry of flavors including grapefruit, lemon peel and ripe figs, plus a finish that makes me think of Calvados, this wine embodies a certain je ne sais quoi that tastes unambiguously French. 90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 24, 2007

Louis Jadot, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($26, Kobrand):

When I go into a French-style restaurant in the U.S. and want a glass of good white wine, I generally think of a basic Chablis. To me, Chablis is to French white wine what the little black dress is to French fashion – and what better couturier than Louis Jadot? This vintage’s starter wine (after Petit Chablis) is medium-bodied with crisp apple flavors, lots of stony minerality and a lift of light creaminess at the end which keeps it from being severe.
90 Roger Morris Jan 30, 2024

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (France) 2004 ($22, Dreyfus Ashby): Consumers tend to forget that some Burgundy houses based in Beaune, such as Drouhin, also make outstanding Chablis. In Drouhin's case, it is because Robert, the current head of the firm, has been committed to the region for four decades. They own almost 100 acres, about a quarter of which are in premier and grand cru vineyards, and have a winery in Chablis as well. This wine, their village Chablis, comes partly from their own vineyards and partly from purchased grapes. Vinified and aged entirely in stainless steel tanks, it is a quintessentially flinty, mineral-infused Chablis. Unlike many of the 2003s, it has refreshing citric acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Reserve “Vaudon” 2008 ($28, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s great négociants, has extensive holdings in Chablis. Their 2008 Chablis releases are fabulous across the board. This one, made from their grapes, is a terrific example of how good a “simple” village Chablis can be. It conveys the expected minerality of Chablis, but has an unusual persistence and class more associated with premier cru than village wines. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 20, 2010

Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Terroir de Fyé” 2016 ($29, David Bowler Wine):

There is a longstanding tradition of identifying vineyards when making Chablis Premier and Grand Cru. Fewer producers do that with village wines, preferring to simply label the wine Chablis. Piuze, who like many relatively new small négociants owns no vineyards, opting instead to buy grapes from local growers, is able to take an intermediate approach. He labels his village Chablis according to the commune from which the grapes come. His 2016 “Terroir de Fyé,” from the tiny village of the same name, is focused and precise, displaying crisp and cutting minerality. It’s a mini Montée de Tonnerre, and given prices of white Burgundy these days, a bargain.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2017

Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Coteau de Fontanay” 2016 ($29, David Bowler Wine): Though another one of Piuze’s village Chablis comes from Fontanay, not far from Fyé, it has a very different signature, showing there are dramatic differences between the communes than make up the greater Chablis appellation. Piuze’s 2016 Coteau de Fontanay has a touch more ripeness and roundness than his Terroir de Fyé, while maintaining an underlying and balancing vivacity and edginess. It’s a mini Fourchaume. These two of Piuze’s Chablis show his extraordinary talent and the complexity of the Chablis appellation. In addition to being delicious to drink now, side-by-side they offer a fascinating trip through the subtleties of Chablis. Next time you’re having sushi, open them both and prepare to be wowed.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2017

Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Terroir de Fyé” 2012 ($26, David Bowler Imports):

Chablis wines from Patrick Piuze have gained a great deal of praise and recognition in recent vintages. Those who enjoy classically-style Chablis should seek out the 2012 Terroir de Fyé. The village of Fyé is nestled in a valley behind the Grand Cru of Blanchot and the Premier Cru of Montée de Tonnerre. The 2012 from Piuze shows apple, peach and lemon scents along with floral nuances and hints of nuts and oyster shells. The flavors are crisp, pure and clean with the citrus and apple fruits underlain by the classic nutty character and minerally-clean finish of Chablis.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 29, 2014

Pommier, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($25, Polaner Selections):

The 2014 vintage for white Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south, is exceptional. This village Chablis, from a small but top-notch producer, is just one example of the great values the vintage will provide. Mineral-y and cutting, Pommier’s delivers the vibrancy and verve you’d expect from the region.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2016

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($20, Louis Latour USA): The 2014 vintage was superb in Chablis and the rest of Burgundy for white wines. Prices have nowhere to go but up because of the short crop in 2016, so I advise friends to buy as many 2014 white Burgundies as they can afford. Here’s a good place to start. Simonnet-Febvre’s 2014 village Chablis is a classic expression of the appellation -- flinty, mineraly and invigorating. Hard to beat it at the price.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2016

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($22, Louis Latour USA): The category of “unoaked” Chardonnay is becoming increasingly popular. Often, though, the wines lack substance. So, for those looking for a truly distinctive “unoaked” Chardonnay and see what a unique category it can be, this is it. It’s mineraly, crisp and clean, with an edgy and hugely satisfying persistence. This great village Chablis shows the character of the appellation and why it remains so popular. It would be a terrific choice for this summer’s shellfish or simply grilled seafood.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013

William Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Champs Royaux” 2012 ($25, Henriot):

Good luck finding a white wine with more class than this for 25 bucks. Already intensely mineral at this early stage in its development (which will likely see at least 5 years of improvement in a cool cellar), this shows fruit recalling green apples with an edge of lime and excellent linear energy.
90 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2013

William Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Champs Royaux" 2018 ($33, Domaines Henriot):

William Fevre’s 2018 village Chablis is a superb example of this legendary appellation. It shows the classic style of the region and the vibrant character of the Chardonnay grape crafted in a uniquely Chablisienne style. The aromas are forward and full, with ripe lemon and green apple fruits underlain by the characteristic oyster-shell minerality of Chablis. The bright and juicy fruit is enhanced by elements of fresh flowers, marjoram and almonds. The flavors are pure and refreshing with the juicy apple and lemon fruits backed by nutty and herbal elements and a surprisingly rich texture. This 2018 bottling has exceptional depth for a village Chablis. The finish is long and refreshing. It’s a perfect match for your favorite fresh fish or shellfish recipe.
90 Wayne Belding Sep 17, 2019

William Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) "Champs Royaux" 2018 ($25, Domaines Henriot):

The beauty of Chablis is the little-known secret that the village wines often aren’t a big come-down from the district’s premier crus wines. That’s especially true in the hands of a top producer such as Fevre. The Champs Royaux from 2018 delivers the signature minerality and stony note of Chablis along with aromas of apple and citrus and a subtle hint of wood spice owing to a small percentage of the vintage that is matured in oak barrels.
90 Robert Whitley Oct 15, 2019

Alice et Olivier De Moor, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Bel Air et Clardy” 2005 ($30, Vintage '59 Imports):

Admirably rich and concentrated for an AOC Chablis at this price level, this wine must be the product of modest crop yields. Fruit notes recall baked apples above all, with a little edge of citrus and minerals showing in the finish. The elements of fruit, acidity and minerality are very well integrated, making this a perfect partner for simply prepared fish dishes. 89 Michael Franz May 20, 2008

Alice et Olivier De Moor, Chablis (Burgundy, France) "Bel Air et Clardy" 2004 ($25, Vintage '59 Imports): Although this release is a bit less nuanced than the 'Rosette' bottling from Alice et Olivier De Moor in 2004, it is every bit as delicious in its way. The fruit component (which recalls green apples above all) is a bit more prominent, and the acidity is likewise more immediately present on the palate, riding right through a long, symmetrical finish. 89 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2006

Billaud-Simon, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): As expected, Billaud-Simon’s 2014 Chablis has more flint and less fruit than its 2014 Petit Chablis (also reviewed this week). My advice is to buy a bottle of each and taste them side-by-side. Re-corked and stored in a cold refrigerator, they will remain fresh for a few days -- longer than you might think -- so you can repeat the experiment nightly, at least for a while.
89 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016

Domaine Boudin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($25, Skurnik):

Chablis remains Burgundy’s best kept secret for affordable Chardonnay-based wines. The region’s wines shine in 2007 and 2008. Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel vats, this excellent village Chablis has the characteristic crisp and flinty signature you’d expect. With unusually good depth and finish for a village wine, it’s easy to recommend for current drinking with simple seafood. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2010

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($29, Frederick Wildman & Sons): With everyone raving about the Chablis and other white Burgundies from the 2014 vintage, those wines from 2015 may be overlooked, which would be a shame. Domaine Christian Moreau made an exceptional village Chablis in 2015, a year that produced riper whites compared to 2014. Fabien Moreau thought the key to their success in 2015 -- and they were across all levels -- was that they picked early to capture freshness. This Chablis has a touch more ripeness than their captivating 2014, but plenty of verve and minerality to remind you of its origin. Those who prefer less steely Chablis will really love it. But frankly, even those, such as myself, who prefer more steely Chablis, will still love it.
89 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Faively, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($24, Wilson Daniels): This is a very well made, thoroughly satisfying AOC Chablis. The flavors are classic and pure, with green apple notes leading the way but notably supported by mineral notes. Appropriately light in overall impression for a Chablis, this nevertheless shows real substance and depth of fruit, without the watery wimpiness that often afflicts cheaper wines in this product category. All the elements lending flavor, structure and texture are well balanced and harmoniously integrated. 89 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Domaine de Vaudon 2006 ($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): A terrific value in Chablis given the current exchange rate for dollars against the euro, this wine offers aromas and flavors that show its place of origin with vivid clarity. Ripe green apple is the core fruit note, with a bit of citrus edging. Medium-bodied, it offers satisfyingly deep flavors, but still is very refreshing, making it a promising partner for everything from simple shellfish dishes to richer preparations of finfish or chicken. A notable mineral note offers a clear indication that this is a Chardonnay sourced from Chablis--and nowhere else. 89 Michael Franz May 27, 2008

Joseph Drouhin - Domaine de Vaudon, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($20, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): I’ve said before, but it’s worth repeating--there’s no better Chablis producer than Drouhin. Starting with the 2008 vintage, they have labeled all of their Chablis under the Domaine de Vaudon label because it is their headquarters in Chablis. They produce two village Chablis, this one from a combination of their grapes and purchased ones and one labeled Reserve, which comes exclusively from their vineyards. This one is consistently an exceptional value and the 2009 is no exception. Its wonderfully penetrating minerality combined with ripe apple-like fruitiness makes it a great introduction to Chablis. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011

Joseph Faiveley, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($39): This “village” Chablis offers enticing apple and lemon fruit flavors enhanced by chalky, mineral-laden undertones, with a very long so satisfying finish. It does not have the heft or depth of many wines coming from the premier or grand crus in the appellation, but nonetheless is compelling because so obviously multi-layered. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 15, 2011

Maison Louis Jadot, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($24, Kobrand): Jadot, rightly known for their excellent wines from the Côte d'Or--the heart of Burgundy--also makes stylish Chablis, the northernmost outpost of Burgundy. Usually sold only in Europe, we are starting to see more of Jadot's Chablis on these shores. And it's a good thing. Although pricey compared to many Chablis, Jadot's 2004 delivers real minerality supported by cutting acidity often found only in more expensive ones from Premier Cru vineyards. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2007

Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011 ($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up. This village Chablis -- Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting -- is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. It’s “unoaked” Chardonnay at its best.
89 Michael Apstein Feb 25, 2014

Olivier Leflaive, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Les Deaux Rives” 2005 ($20, Frederick Wildman):

Wines like this truly are the beauty (and value) of a great vintage in France's Burgundy region. This is a simple village Chablis that scales the heights because of a) the overall quality of the vintage and b) the combination of superior winemaking and a top domain. Franck Grux of Leflaive is a master with Chardonnay. Given a magical vintage to work with, he has crafted a village wine (as opposed to premier or grand cru) that offers richness, complexity, lovely aromas of pear and green apple, and exquisite balance. This is a drink-now Chablis with the potential to improve in the bottle over the next five years. 89 Robert Whitley Oct 23, 2007

William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($22, Henriot Inc.): Village Chablis can often be vapid. Not so with Fèvre, whose lower-end wines always deliver. The mineral profile characteristic of Chablis blasts through even in this village Chablis and its length makes it all the more remarkable. This provides more evidence that the 2005 vintage in Burgundy is likely to live up to its reputation. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 24, 2006

Château de Fleys, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($22):

Its softer style makes this a wonderful introduction to Chablis for those who have yet to discover the magnificent wines of this appellation. Fruitier and less mineraly than many Chablis, it will appeal to those who may be turned off by the prominent stony edginess many Chablis. Here, the voice of the Chardonnay can be heard along with the typical flinty aspect of Chablis.
88 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2022

Domaine Laroche, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Saint Martin” 2006 ($25, Remy Cointreau USA): A pretty Chablis, with apple and citrus fruit flavors and a satisfying

finish, this is a fine wine. At the same time, though, it does not display either the depth or length that so distinguished the 2005 rendition of this popular bottling. 88 Paul Lukacs May 13, 2008

Domaine Long Depaquit, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($25, Horizon Beverage Company): Maison Albert Bichot, one of Burgundy’s fine producers, is both a négociant, making wine from other growers’ grapes, and a grower, making wine from its own estates. Domaine Long Depaquit, the property they own in the Chablis region, is a reliable name for high quality Chablis. The wines from Long Depaquit rarely disappoint. This Chablis, delivering more than the price suggests, certainly does not. It a wonderful village Chablis, full of a clean crisp fruit and persistent minerality. Its energy makes it an ideal choice for steamed clams or grilled fish.
88 Michael Apstein Sep 24, 2013

Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($30, Henriot): Reflecting the ripeness of the vintage, this wine is surprisingly rich for a village Chablis. But it still retains the cutting minerality characteristic of the region. Uplifting acidity and freshness throughout make it a fine choice for simple seafood preparations or raw shellfish. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2008

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Maison Joseph Drouhin owns a winery and vineyards in the Chablis region of Burgundy. The grapes for this entry-level Chablis come from the Drouhin family properties. The grapes were pressed in Chablis and then the juice was brought to Beaune where it was fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by 7-9 months aging. The 2009 has a brilliant light-medium gold color, citrus-mineral aroma that follows through to the flavors. It’s textured, fruity and brisk and finishes with 12.5% alcohol. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 28, 2012

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($24, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): In addition to Drouhin’s extensive holdings in Chablis, it buys grapes and must (newly fermenting juice) from growers with whom it has long-standing relationships. This village Chablis is a blend of Drouhin’s grapes with those of other growers. Fruitier than its flinty “Réserve de Vaudon” Chablis, it is a good introduction to real Chablis and stands as the original “un-wooded Chardonnay” that has become so popular. It is an ideal choice as a stand-alone aperitif, which can then be brought to the table to complement light first courses or simply grilled fish.
88 Michael Apstein Sep 29, 2015

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Grand Cru Vaudesir 2003 ($75, Dreyfus, Ashby): Yes, Vaudesir is a great Chablis Grand Cru vineyard, but this is the 2003 vintage. The 2003 Vaudesir is full-bodied, soft, and oaky. It's really a bit too ripe. Drink it soon with lobster or creamed chicken. It's not an ager. 88 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($20): Drouhins basic Chablis, at 12.5% alcohol, is stainless steel fermented and sees no oak. It is very dry and minerally, with crisp acidity, and has clean, uncomplicated, pure citrus flavors. Perfect with oysters. 88 Ed McCarthy Feb 7, 2006

Olivier Leflaive, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Les Deux Rives” 2005 ($24, Wildman): This Chablis tout court (village wine) focuses more on the fruitiness of Chardonnay than the flinty minerality associated with Chablis, and reflects the ripeness of the 2005 vintage. People will enjoy it because it is satisfying white Burgundy at a good price, but it is a less typical Chablis than most. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 3, 2008

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($25, Louis Latour Inc.):

The 2006 vintage in Burgundy is providing us with some beautifully structured white wines, such as this 'simple' Chablis. Crisp and mineral, it is everything you'd expect from Chablis--and at a very attractive price. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

William Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) "Champs Royaux" 2007 ($25, Henriot):

Fresh and well balanced, this is a Chablis that exhibits a slightly tart lime citrus burst of fruit on the front of the palate, followed by lovely notes of pippin apple and minerals. It's not terribly complex, but lovely and appealing nontheless and certainly a good accompaniment to grilled fish and steamed shellfish.

Drouhin Vaudon, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($21, Dreyfus-Ashby): Although I’ve said it before, it’s worth repeating: Drouhin is one of the top producers in Chablis. And this wine, their village Chablis made from other growers’ grapes, shows their talents. It’s a clean crisp slightly mineraly expression of Chardonnay unencumbered by oak. Try it with steamed clams or simply grilled fish.
87 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2013

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Domaine de Vaudon 2005 ($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

All of the 2005 Drouhin bottlings of Chablis are delicious and attractively priced, and this wine is certainly no exception. Appropriately lean and light, but hardly short on aroma or flavor, this offers fresh notes of tart apples with a nice citrus edge. A great choice for a simple plate of oysters on the half shell or for delicate preparations of freshwater fish. 87 Michael Franz Mar 20, 2007

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon “Cuvée Guy Moreau” 2016 ($75, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd):

Fabien Moreau, the current winemaker, says that this portion of their plot in the Vaillon vineyard was planted by his grandfather, Guy, 83 years ago and contain the oldest vines of their estate. Located on the steepest part of the slope, the vines have excellent exposure and drainage. An extraordinary wine, which could pass for many producers’ Grand Cru, their 2016 displays an impeccable balance of freshness, energy and stony minerality. The finish is seemingly endless and you are left with the delightful mouth-watering sensation that demands another sip.
95 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2018

Romain Collet, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Pargues 2019 ($26, APS Wine & Spirits):

Romain Collet grew up in a family that has been growing and tending wine grape vines in the Chablis region of Burgundy since the late 1700s. Perhaps it is no surprise that he made his first wine in the 2009 vintage at the age of 23. The wine is elegant crystal clear light golden yellow color and fresh with ripe, round apple citrus fruit. It is a delightful, youthful wine at three and a half years, and promises many more enjoyable years to come.
95 Rebecca Murphy Feb 7, 2023

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2016 ($48, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd):

Vaillon is a large well-known 1er cru vineyard on the Left Bank in Chablis that is composed of many plots. Christian Moreau’s plot, where the average age of the vines is 56 years, according to their website, is in the heart of the vineyard. Year in and year out, their Vaillon is always one of their most exciting wines. Their 2016 is not different. A great success, it has almost all of the vivacity of the 2014 vintage combined with the ripeness of the 2015 vintage. Drink now with sautéed scallops or cellar it for the next five or ten years.
94 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2018

Domaine Denis Race, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2014 ($28, Martin Scott):

Consumers would be wise to snap up this stunning Chablis because prices for all Chablis have nowhere to go but up. The hail and other storms in Chablis so far in 2016 will reduce this year’s yield dramatically and will force prices of all Chablis that have yet to hit the market to rise. This would be good advice even if 2014 was a mediocre year in Chablis. But it wasn’t -- it was a great year, on par with 2010 and 2008. This wine reflects it. Quintessential Chablis, this Vaillons delivers flinty minerality seamlessly integrated with green apple-like fruitiness and buttressed by innervating acidity.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2016

Domaine Pinson, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Forêt 2016 ($44):

Pinson, one of my favorite Chablis producers, makes wines, even their village Chablis, that are focused, precise and well-priced. This one, from a lesser known site, is quintessential Premier Cru Chablis, delivering a fine flinty stony signature that expands in the glass, but never becomes heavy or ripe. An uplifting citrus finish amplifies all the components and insures that you never tire of it. It punches well above its weight.
94 Michael Apstein Sep 18, 2018

Domaine Yvon and Laurent Vocoret, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2021 ($45):

Though the crop was small in Burgundy and especially Chablis in 2021 because of severe frost, the wines, like this delight, can be excellent. Fourchaume, one of the top premier cru vineyards of Chablis, abuts the line of Grand Cru vineyards, which perhaps explains its stature. In any case, long-time producer family producer, Domaine Yvon and Laurent Vocoret, has fashioned a stellar example of what the vineyard can offer. It has density offset and amplified by the unmistakable flinty edginess of classic Chablis. Racy, with plenty of depth, it is why people love top-notch Chablis.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024

Olivier Leflaive, Chablis 1er Cru (Chablis) Montee de Tonnerre 2006 ($54, Frederick Wildman):

Olivier Leflaive is something of an icon, and there is a reason for that. It's simply the genius of his wines, which are impeccable each and every one. This premier cru Chablis is a brilliant example of Chardonnay from the Chablis district, as good as most grand cru from the region. From the scent of lemon custard to the stony minerals to the velvety mouthfeel to the steely acidity that refreshes and excites the taste buds, this is classic Chablis and a most satisfying wine. A bit on the expensive side, though I have seen it for as little as $39 on the internet.

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2007 ($44, Wildman): As expected for a premier cru, this Vaillon is a step up from Moreau's excellent straight village Chablis (also reviewed this week). The nose alone predicts good things and the palate is not disappointed. Fifty year-old Chardonnay vines undoubtedly contribute to this wine's extraordinary minerality that is not masked--but enhanced--by Moreau's judicious use of oak (only one third of the wine is fermented and aged in oak barrels, only 10% of which are new). Its wonderful complexity is amplified by lime-like essence in the finish. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2009 ($45, Frederick Wildman): This is the best Premier Cru Chablis that I’ve tasted to date from the 2009 vintage, showing the breadth and richness associated with this growing season but also a level of freshness and lift that is more characteristic of wines from 2008. Moreau was terrifically successful in this vintage. 92 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2012

Domaine Vaudon, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2015 ($35, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

The 2015 vintage in Burgundy was outstanding for both reds and whites. Reds belong in the cellar, while the whites are delicious for earlier drinking as this one demonstrates. Domaine Vaudon is the Drouhin estate in Chablis where they make sensational wines. Delicate and long, this Montmains conveys the flinty mineral aspect of region with a lovely depth and finish befitting a premier cru.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2018

Hamelin, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Beauroy 2008 ($30, AP Wine Imports): This is just one more example of how wonderful the 2008 vintage is for Chablis. Beauroy is one of the less well-known premier cru vineyards and Hamelin’s reputation has yet to spread widely in the US. Still, it is hard to go wrong with Chablis from the 2008 vintage. It’s particularly attractive because of the precise flinty minerality and its extraordinary length. Its premier cru status is apparent with the waves of flavors that wash across the palate. It would be a great choice for simply prepared seafood. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2012

La Chablisienne, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Chablis 1er Cru 2020 ($60):

La Chablisienne’s 1er Cru Fourchaume is rather bold for Chablis. It shoots out of the gates with a complex and potent aromatic bouquet of cream, lemon curd, Meyer lemons, pineapples, vanilla, cinnamon, and toasted oak. Flavor-wise, the wine is more straightforward, showing notes of lemons, apples, and cream. The finish is dominated by a toasted oak note that lacks subtlety that one might expect from Chablis. Though the oak usage might be slightly heavy by my estimation, this is nonetheless a complex and interesting wine that could surely stand up well next to heartier dishes.
92 John McDermott Dec 5, 2023

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2008 ($36, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Drouhin has used no new oak for fermenting or aging any of their Chablis since the 2004 vintage, wishing to preserve the minerality of the wines. Flinty and delicate, this premier cru conveys flavor without heaviness. Lively freshness reinforces the underlying minerality. Lovely to drink now with simple grilled fish, it, like Drouhin’s Les Clos (also reviewed this week) will reward cellaring. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 20, 2010

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2016 ($35, Louis Latour USA):

The Fourchaume vineyard, which sits adjacent to the strip of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis, is considered to be among the top 1er Cru vineyards. This wine has the added richness and depth characteristic of Fourchaume without scarifying any verve or energy. Incredibly long, the vibrant acidity amplifies the flavors and makes it hard to stop sipping.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018

Domaine Barat, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Monts de Milieu 2007 ($22, Fruit of the Vine): Monts de Milieu, one of the best Premier Cru vineyards, lies on the right bank of the Serein River, almost adjacent to the cluster of Grand Cru vineyards. Slightly classier than Barat’s Chablis Les Fourneaux (also reviewed this week), it is just a bit richer without sacrificing the quintessential flinty minerality. A touch of smokiness adds to its allure. Riveting acidity lends lovely balance and focus. This is another terrific buy. 91 Michael Apstein May 11, 2010

Domaine Laroche, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2011 ($48): On a day when I sampled dozens of wines from this excellent Chablis Premier Cru vineyard, Laroche's was among the finest. It was steely and firm on the palate, with a tight nose that showed much more mineral character than fruit. This crisp, elegant wine will no doubt take three to five years to unwind and evolve to the point where now-hidden complexities begin to shine. 91 Robert Whitley Mar 18, 2014

Drouhin, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2009 ($41, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Drouhin’s lacy and elegant style makes them one of Burgundy’s best producers. Though based in Beaune, about half of their vineyard holdings are actually in the Chablis region, which probably explains why this house’s Chablis bottlings are so good year in and year out. In fact, no one makes better Chablis than Drouhin. The 2009 vintage was excellent in Chablis and infused the Chardonnay with a bit more ripeness than in 2008 or 2007, two other excellent vintages for white Burgundy in general. Still, the minerality comes through in this one and acts as a foil for the riper green apple-like notes. It’s a superb choice for swordfish with a caper butter sauce. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2011

Drouhin, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Sécher 2008 ($36, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Even though Drouhin is based in Beaune and not Chablis, they are one of the appellation’s leading producers. They own almost 100 acres there, which represents slightly more than half of their total estate. I can’t say enough good things about Drouhin’s 2008 Chablis. This one, from the less well-known Premier Cru vineyard, Sécher, is very flowery and fragrant with slight notes of honey to complement its underlying flinty minerality. Unencumbered by oak, Drouhin’s delicate style allows the flavors of Chablis to shine. 91 Michael Apstein Feb 22, 2011

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2005 ($30): After tasting this wine, it's clear why Chablis has such name recognition. It's impossible not to be thrilled by wines like this one. It's a unique combination of richness and minerality reinforced by vibrant acidity. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006

Olivier Leflaive, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montée de Tonnerre 2006 ($54, Frederick Wildman):

This wine is the kind of thing we Chablis lovers always hope for. It’s beautifully dry and crisp yet still manages to burst onto the palate with enough richness and depth to inspire the fortunate drinker to send up a silent prayer of thanks to Bacchus. Among the wine’s many attractions are its subtle floral elements, with lemony overtones and touches of minerality.

William Fèvre, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume Valourant 2004 ($60, Henriot Inc.): In the rush to embrace the 2005 Burgundies, we shouldn't forgot the 2004s, especially the whites. The Valourant vineyard, which can be sold under the more famous Fourchaume name, lies adjacent to the grand cru vineyards and has the potential to produce some of Chablis's best Premier Cru wines. Fèvre realized that potential with the 2004 and has fashioned a rich and classy wine without losing the region's inherent minerality or vibrant edginess. 91 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2006

Denis Pommier, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) “Beauroy” 2004 ($34, Robert Katcher): Vivacious and pretty, the wine possesses the minerality one hopes for in Chablis. It is pleasurably full and creamy in the mouth, and has a long, satisfying finish reminiscent, among other things, of preserved lemons (citrusy and with a touch of both sweetness and saltiness). 90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 19, 2007

Domaine Barat, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Fourneaux 2007 ($20, Fruit of the Vine): Chablis remains the bargain of Burgundy. This region was particularly successful in 2007. The Barat family has 40-acres of Premier Cru vineyards from which they make top notch wines. Their wine from the Les Fourneaux vineyards has the typical flinty character you’d expect from Chablis with a hint of white pepper-like spice. It delivers more body and oomph befitting a Premier Cru. Great length and precision makes it a fine choice for current consumption with simply prepared seafood. It’s a wonderful value. 90 Michael Apstein May 11, 2010

Jean-Claude Bessin, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($35, Kysela): This is a high-class Chablis that is at once a wine true to its type and place of origin while also being so harmonious, balanced and perfectly ripened that it could just as easily be regarded as an excellent Chardonnay from almost any fine, cool-climate region. Fruit notes of baked apples and peaches are freshened by a light citrus edge, with notable mineral accents lending additional interest to the finish. Delicious on its own but also broadly useful at the table, this should pair beautifully with anything from fresh oysters to lighter preparations of fish or chicken. 90 Michael Franz Sep 8, 2009

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2005 ($33, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This classic rendering of Chardonnay from Chablis shows a lovely core of fruit recalling crisp apples with tinges of nectarine and lime. Prominent mineral notes ride alongside the fruit components through a long, focused finish. Excellent quality at a very fair price. 90 Michael Franz Mar 20, 2007

La Chablisienne, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Côte de Lèchet 2002 ($28, Monsieur Henri Wine Company): La Chablisienne is one of the world's best wine cooperatives. Their 2002 Côte de Lèchet, from a less well-known 1er cru vineyard, reflects the greatness of that vintage for Burgundy in general and Chablis in particular. Still commercially available, it's a great combination of flintiness and richness and shows the length and finesse of Chablis from the 2002 vintage. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2006 ($34, Louis Latour Inc.): Befitting a premier cru, this Chablis delivers more complexity than Simonnet-Febvre's village Chablis. A lovely flinty overtone is captivating and reminds you that Chardonnay grown in these vineyards is unique. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

William Fèvre, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume “Vignoble de Vaulorent” 2006 ($65, Henriot): The 2006 vintage produced ripe white wines in Burgundy. Nonetheless, Fèvre, one of Chablis' top producers, showed their talent and managed to walk the fine line between ripeness and the inherent minerality characteristic of Chablis. A beautifully proportioned Chablis, flinty smokiness and laser-like acidity balance the ripe--for Chablis--apple-like flavors. Hard to resist now, it should develop even more complexity over the next several years. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 17, 2009

Domaine Long-Depaquit, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Vaucopins 2005 ($30, Arborway Imports): In addition to their négociant line of wines, Bichot owns several domaines throughout Burgundy, including the excellent Chablis property, Long-Depaquit. This premier cru Chablis shows the ripeness of the 2005 vintage while maintaining the minerality characteristic of the region. Nuances of smoky flint complement the creamy green apple flavors. 88 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008

Domaine Vrignaud, Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($45, Cape Classics): Among the best Premier Cru Chablis wines that I've tasted from the 2015

vintage, this gears up with additional concentration and quite notably enhanced minerality by comparison to the straight AOC Chablis from Vrignaud, which makes for a complex, interesting finish in the wake of satisfying mid-palate fruit impressions. Very well done. This is made from organically grown grapes -- if that matters to you -- but its sheer deliciousness can be agreed upon by anybody.
92 Michael Franz Nov 28, 2017

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2008 ($80, Dreyfus Ashby):

Les Clos is probably the most elegant of Chablis, so it's no surprise that Drouhin's '08 Les Clos is all about finesse, subtlety and exquisite balance. The minerality of the Chablis district shines through, framed beautifully by notes of lemon oil, red citrus and pear. Complex and scintillating, this exceptional expression of the land is pure magic in a bottle. 97 Robert Whitley Sep 28, 2010

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2016 ($118, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd):

Vaudésir, along with Le Clos, sit atop most critics’ lists -- certainly mine -- of top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. To me, the wines from Vaudésir, in the hands of the best producers, combine power with elegance and epitomize the stature of Grand Cru classification. Christian Moreau’s 2016 Vaudésir fits that mold perfectly. Adverse weather reduced their crop of Vaudésir in 2016 by half. But what they made was sensational. Riveting acidity highlight prominent flinty mineral notes that command your attention. This is the kind of wine where one sip makes you take notice and say, “Wow.”
96 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2018

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2012 ($80, Henriot, Inc.): Vaudésir is always among the top two vineyards in any ranking of Chablis Grand Cru (Les Clos is the other). And Domaine William Fevre is one of Chablis’ consistently finest producers. So it’s not surprising that this is a stunningly stellar wine. It combines power and minerality with the laser-like cutting edge you expect from Chablis. Brilliant enlivening acidity expands the finish and flavors. What a success!
96 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2014

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2008 ($75, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Les Clos is Chablis’s largest Grand Cru Vineyard and many would say its best. Drouhin owns just over 3 acres there and has made a stunning wine in 2008. Stony and flinty, it is tightly wound at this stage and would benefit from at least 5 years in the cellar. But its subtle power--almost a contradiction in terms--is haunting and persistent. The unique minerality of Chablis shines even at this youthful stage. Incredible length and acidity that amplifies its palate of flavors show its Grand Cru status. 96 Michael Apstein Jul 20, 2010

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2012 ($65, Louis Latour USA):

Simonnet-Febvre is one of the top producers in Chablis. They eschew oak aging preferring to focus on the bracing minerality unique to the Chablis region, which gives their wines a lean, racy edginess. The 2012 vintage was especially well suited to their style because it delivered fully ripe grapes with slightly lower apparent acidity, which meant that some producers’ wines lacked the usual verve of Chablis. Verve is never lacking at Simonnet-Febvre. Their Grand Cru Preuses in 2012 combines the steely minerality of Chablis with unusual depth and persistence. Vibrant and alive, it expands in the mouth with an almost endless finish. It’s incredibly mouth-filling though never heavy. It shows the grandeur of Grand Cru Chablis and would be a terrific match with swordfish with a caper butter sauce.
96 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2014

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014 ($65, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.):

It’s worth repeating: 2014 is a great vintage for white Burgundies, without doubt the best since 2010 and in the same league as those wines. In short, don’t miss them, including this modestly priced -- for Grand Cru Burgundy -- Chablis Vaudésir. Domaine Christian Moreau produced a stellar line-up of Chablis in 2014 from their “simple” village wine to this shining example of what the region can produce in the right hands. It combines the density of Vaudésir, which, along with Les Clos, is one of the top two best Grand Cru vineyards, with the stoniness and energy characteristic of Chablis. It expands in the glass and on the palate. Though engaging now, especially to savor with grilled fish, it has the requisite balance to develop beautifully with a decade of bottle age, befitting a Grand Cru.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2016

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Le Clos 2007 ($68, Wildman): Chablis was particularly successful in 2007, producing focused, classically proportioned wines. Christian Moreau's are particularly notable and are not to be missed. Sixty-eight bucks is a lot to spend for a bottle of wine, especially these days, but it's a bargain compared to Grand Cru Burgundy from the Cote d'Or. This wine from Le Clos, considered by many to be the best vineyard in Chablis, lives up to its reputation and Grand Cru status. Tightly wound at this stage, its minerality and flinty--almost smoky--notes still emerge. It has a riveting, laser-like focus and precision. It shows less opulence now than some of Moreau's other Grand Crus, but its elegance and perfect harmony suggest it will ultimately be a better wine. Although conventional wisdom says that Chablis should be consumed young, this one--like other Grand Crus--would benefit from years in the cellar. 95 Michael Apstein May 19, 2009

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2007 ($80, Wildman): Moreau's Vaudésir deserves the Grand Cru designation of that vineyard, especially in 2007. Slightly richer and riper than Moreau's Vaillon (also reviewed this week), the minerality of Moreau's Vaudésir still screams Chablis because it, like all of Moreau's wines, is unencumbered by oak. (The Vaudésir is fermented entirely in stainless steel vats and spends a brief four months in oak barrels, only 10% of which are new). Smokey and flinty nuances complement a citric fruitiness in this racy vibrant wine. The finish is almost endless, and each sip brings new flavors and uplifting acidity keeps you coming back for more. 95 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Valmur 2007 ($80, Frederick Wildman): I can't be too enthusiastic about Moreau's 2007 Chablis. They are simply stunning across the board from his village Chablis (reviewed previously) to this Grand Cru. In addition to the expected flinty minerality, there is a hint of pear-like spiciness that adds unexpected intrigue. Long and classy, it has a laser-like focus and precision through its exceptional finish. 95 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2009

Domaine Laroche, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2010 ($98, Wilson Daniels): This is a delicious grand cru Chablis that is beginning to show some evolution, with notes of brioche and honey beginning to emerge. This Les Clos is beautifully structured, with firm acidity and flinty, mineral notes on the palate. As the cloak of acidity softens, the wine will begin to show richness and length as well. Good to drink now, but even better in four to six years. 95 Robert Whitley Mar 18, 2014

Domaine Louis Michel, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014 ($66): My advice to Chablis-lovers is to snap up this wine. It’s really no surprise since it’s a trifecta: Louis Michel is a great producer of pure distinctive Chablis, Vaudésir along with Les Clos are the two top Grand Cru vineyard sites in Chablis, and 2014 was a stellar vintage for white Burgundy in general. The wine is tightly wound, befitting a young Grand Cru, waiting to explode. The riveting minerality and a lemon-like acidity are beautifully balanced, but hidden underneath the youthful vigor, waiting to emerge. Give this wine five to ten years -- after all, it is a Grand Cru. If your budget and patience allow, you should have some in your cellar. I do.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2017

Domaine Louis Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Hospices 2004 ($105, Terlato Wines International): Louis Moreau is a nephew of Christian Moreau and runs his own winery, although both share the ownership of the famed Clos des Hospices (part of Les Clos). The '04 Clos des Hospices is Chablis at its best in this vintage. Although a good vintage, 2004 has been criticized for being too lean. Not this excellent wine! It is powerful and rich, with floral and citrus notes, fine acidity and complex flavors. A Chablis that can easily age for 15 years. 95 Ed McCarthy Apr 8, 2008

Domaine Robert Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2009 ($80, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Although located in Beaune, Drouhin is one of Chablis’s finest producers. After their spectacular array of 2008 Chablis--buy whatever you can still find--I was prepared to be disappointed by their 2009s. But I was not. Across the board they are slightly riper than their 2008s, but the richness of the vintage has by no means obliterated the terroir signature in the wines. The 2009 Les Clos is still clearly flinty and mineraly with a tang of lemony notes. Long and elegant, it’s on my “to buy” list.
95 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2012

Domaine Robert Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2009 ($68, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): It’s always hard to decide between Drouhin’s Les Clos and Vaudésir. In 2009, it’s a draw at this stage. Both come from Drouhin’s own vineyards.

The 2009 Vaudésir is more mineraly than flinty with slightly more power than Les Clos at this stage. And the citrus notes are reminiscent of grapefruit rather than lemons. The Drouhin signature of class and elegance is undeniable in this, another riveting, 2009 Chablis. It’s clearly Grand Cru quality. Again, the riper character of the 2009s has not hidden the wine’s origin. What’s continues to surprise me is how the Chablis Grand Cru remain under priced compared to their Côte d’Or counterparts. Not that I’m complaining.
95 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2012

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2008 ($85, Henriot, Inc.): Simply a magnificent wine. The aroma suggests a minerally, wet stone character, along with ripe lemon, honey and a nutty note. In the mouth, the wine is full-bodied and firm with high acidity and very good purity and concentration of flavor that carries through to the finish. That it has so much richness and weight and yet taut, high acidity is simply wondrous. This is a Chablis that will be best in another two to three years and will endure for another ten years. 95 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 27, 2010

Drouhin Domaine Vaudon, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014 ($75, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Domaine Vaudon is the name Drouhin uses for their Chablis. They want to emphasize, justifiably, that they own substantial vineyards there because of the foresight of the patriarch, Robert Drouhin, who purchased vineyards there almost 50 year ago. Indeed, Drouhin, though based in the Côte d’Or with the other major Burgundy négociants, is one of the best producers in Chablis. The two top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis are Les Clos and Vaudésir. Drouhin’s 2014 from Vaudésir is stunning, delivering a spectacular combination of ripeness and flinty minerality. Long and vibrant, the flavors continue to echo long after you swallow it. My experience with their Vaudésir -- indeed all Drouhin’s Chablis -- is that they develop even more complexity with bottle age. This one certainly will, if you can keep your corkscrew away from it. Though $75 is not cheap, it’s a steal for a Grand Cru of this quality.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2016

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudesir 2008 ($69, Dreyfus Ashby):

Drouhin's Vaudesir demonstrates the remarkable potential of grand cru chablis. These wines are firm and tight when young, with bracing acidity and minerality that subdue the wine's fruit. As it ages, it will take on flesh and round out, with secondary aromas of brioche, butterscotch and baked apple. The '08 has all the potential, but will require patience -- at least five years -- to begin to exhibit its true form. This is a power and elegant Chablis that would be a welcome addition to most any wine cellar. 95 Robert Whitley Sep 7, 2010

Joseph Drouhin - Domaine de Vaudon, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2009 ($70, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): To me, Les Clos is always the most tightly wound Chablis. From top

producers, like Drouhin, Les Clos can open into a magnificent wine. Drouhin’s 2009 Les Clos should do just that. Reticent now, there is an underlying energy and verve that will erupt over the next decade. It’s a really good young wine with an extraordinarily long finish. Its vibrancy and minerality make it hard to resist. I’d give it plenty of time in the cellar--5 to 10 years. But similar to their Vaudésir, if you opt to drink it now, open it a couple of hours in advance.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011

Simonnet Febrve, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2012 ($80, Louis Latour USA): Chablis was more successful than the Côte d’Or for white wines in 2012. Indeed, the 2012 vintage produced excellent Chablis. The Simonnet Febrve style of tightly wound, mineraly-infused, bracing wines is ideally suited to this vintage, which produced ripe grapes. Simonnet Febrve’s Chablis from Les Clos, arguably the grandest of the Grand Cru vineyards, is electrifying. Tightly wound -- it took three days sitting open in my refrigerator to reveal its grandeur -- this has the flinty and subtly smoky signature I associate with Les Clos. Combine those qualities with persistence and purity and you have a great young Grand Cru Chablis. Just don’t plan on drinking it for five years, at least.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 7, 2015

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2016 ($55, Louis Latour USA):

Simonnet-Febvre’s 2016 Preuses is an exceptional wine at an exceptional price. Full-bodied with exotic undertones, it nonetheless conveys the firm minerality of great Chablis. Zesty, not shrill, the flavors jump from the glass and persist. A seemingly endless finish just adds to the appeal of this energetic wine. This is a great buy!
95 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018

Simonnet-Fèbvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2008 ($55, Louis Latour, USA): The 2008 vintage in Chablis was the best since 2002 and one of the best ever that region has seen. Simonnet-Fèbvre’s Les Clos is still

widely available and not to be missed. I’ve tasted it several times since its release and watched it show better each time. Fiercely mineraly with smoky notes, it is tightly wound at this stage with a fantastically long and precise finish. Its presence is felt long after it has left your mouth. Simonnet-Fèbvre uses no new oak for his wines so the stoniness of the site erupts on the palate. This is classic and great Chablis. If you opt to drink it now, uncork it hours in advance. It wouldn’t even hurt to decant it and pour back into the bottle. Otherwise, plan of putting it in the cellar for at least five years. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2009 ($80, Frederick Wildman): I adored almost every wine that I tasted from Chablis in the 2008 vintage

and was initially rather down on 2009s by comparison. However, the 2009s are now shedding layer of baby fat from this warm growing season, and are showing more acidity and more minerality than before, and top wines such as this one demonstrate that some truly great wines were made in this slow-starting vintage. It shows amazing depth and length of flavor on a foundation of relatively modest weight--in keeping with the classic Chablis profile and the Moreau house style. 94 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2012

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, FRance) Les Clos 2004 ($85, Henriot): Many producers consider Les Clos the best of the grand cru vineyards in Chablis. Judging by this wine, it would be hard to argue the point. This tightly wound powerhouse exudes a smoky richness without sacrificing elegance. 94 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2012 ($95): Fevre has produced a classic grand cru Chablis in this warm vintage, when some producers failed to retain acidity in their wines. The Fevre Les Clos is tight and lean at this stage, with crisp acidity and a steely, mineral quality. There is ample green apple and pear fruit lurking in the background, set to emerge with another four to six years in bottle. It's a brilliant wine from a top-notch producer. 94 Robert Whitley Mar 18, 2014

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Preuses 2008 ($74, Henriot, Inc.): This is a brilliant, classic Chablis with strong minerality, focus of expression and real presence. The aroma is smoky and ripe, and the palate is quite full-bodied with ripe stone-fruit flavor and a broad, mineral note. This wine is slightly less powerful and majestic and slightly readier to drink than the 2008 Fevre Les Clos. But it is more seductive, more richly textured, softer and perhaps more finessed. 94 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 27, 2010

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013 ($83, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company):

Without doubt, Vaudésir is one of the two top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. (The other is Les Clos.) In the hands of a talented producer, such as Drouhin who owns a portion of the vineyard, the wine from Vaudésir delivers a near-magical combination of weight and flinty elegance. Drouhin’s 2013 Vaudésir, initially very tight and closed with the barest hint of stoniness, took a full day opened and left in the refrigerator for its weight and beauty to appear. Then signs of greatness emerged with flinty nuances and a power that seemingly arrived out of nowhere. But the power was restrained, like a tightly wound coil, rather than manifested by heaviness. My experience with Drouhin’s Vaudésir is that it develops marvelous complexity with bottle age: I drank a 1988 with dinner earlier this year that was perhaps the best wines from Chablis I’ve ever had. So not only is there no rush with Drouhin’s 2013 Vaudésir, I would wait at least five years before pulling the cork.
94 Michael Apstein Sep 29, 2015

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Bourgros 2009 ($68, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Bougros is located on the Grand Cru slope, next to Les Preuses. The grapes received the same treatment as those for the other Chablis in the Drouhin portfolio: pressing in Chablis and fermentation in Beaune. Aged for 9-12 months, the 2009 Bougros Chablis has a brilliant light gold color, low intensity lemon zest with steely-mineral notes. The flavors are subtle citrus and an aromatic herb in the background. It has very good structure and texture, 13% alcohol and good length through the finish.
94 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 28, 2012

Joseph Drouhin - Domaine de Vaudon, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2009 ($64, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Chablis is on a roll. 2009 was the third in a trio of truly excellent consecutive vintages in the region. Slightly richer than the very mineraly 2008s, the 2009s overall deliver just a touch more ripeness without losing the quintessential stoniness. Drouhin’s Vaudésir always has a bit more concentration and power without sacrificing the precision and edginess of Chablis. The 2009 Vaudésir fits that mould. Still closed at this stage, if you pull the cork now, give it an hour or two to unfold. Although many believe Chablis is best consumed young, I have had many bottles of Drouhin’s Vaudésir, which at 10 or more years of age have been extraordinary, so don’t rush to drink this one. It will be even more glorious in another decade. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2014 ($75, Louis Latour USA):

Simonnet-Febvre, a top-notch Chablis producer, makes classically structured Chablis -- tightly wound and linear. Their Preuses, from their own vineyards, is always one of their best wines. Preuses has the reputation of being one of the least elegant of the Chablis Grand Cru. Not in Simonnet-Febvre’s hands and certainly not their 2014. Their 2014 Preuses is very tight and youthful at this stage. It actually took three days to open. But when it did it was captivating with its paradoxical austerity and power. This is a wine to lay down for years. Since there’s some in my cellar, I’m betting you’ll be rewarded. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2018

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2009 ($80, Frederick Wildman): Nearly as impressive as the utterly gorgeous 2009 Les Clos, this is a terrific bottle of Chablis. Notes of apples and fresh peaches are vivid and persistently flavorful, with attractive spice notes around the edges and an intensely mineral finish. 93 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2012

Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013 ($94, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Christian Moreau is one of the very top producers in Chablis. This producer rarely stubbles, even in a vintage, such as 2013, a “difficult” one caught between two superb ones -- 2012 and 2014. A vintage like 2013 fraught with uneven ripening and rot tests a producer’s ability to work in the vineyard and sort the grapes at harvest. Moreau passed with flying colors with this Vaudésir, a vineyard that vies with Le Clos for the top billing of the Chablis Grand Cru. Moreau has combined richness and smokiness with a verve and elegance befitting a Grand Cru. Intense and long, without being over sized, it transmits the uniqueness of great Chablis.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016

Domaine Long-Depaquit (Bichot), Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Les Clos” 2018 ($112):

With holdings totaling 150 acres of vines, almost half of which are located in Premier or Grand Cru vineyards, Bichot’s Long-Depaquit is one of the most notable estates in Chablis. They own roughly ten percent of all Grand Cru acreage in Chablis, including the entirety of La Moutonne, an anomalous site of almost 6-acres spanning two Grand Cru vineyards, Vaudésir and Preuses. In Les Clos alone, Long-Depaquit owns two parcels totaling almost 4 acres, which they blend together for this wine. The full-bodied and mineral-y 2018 is forward and easy to appreciate now, but should develop beautifully over the next several years because of its impeccable balance. The long and graceful finish makes it particularly attractive.
93 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2020

Domaine Louis Michel et Fils, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2005 ($64, Vineyard Brands): I include this 2005 Chablis in my tasting notes because Louis Michel's wines often defy general vintage assessments; its 2005s are excellent! The Louis Michel '05 Vaudesir is a triumph; a powerhouse of a wine, with great acidity (Michel's '05 Les Clos is even more powerful!). The Vaudesir has a long, minerally finish; it will need more time to mature than the '06s. 93 Ed McCarthy Apr 8, 2008

Domaine Vocoret, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Blanchot 2012 ($71): Chablis remains an underappreciated, and hence, under priced source of unique white Burgundy. While not inexpensive, it is practically impossible to fine Côte d’Or Grand Cru at this price. And this wine is truly worthy of the Grand Cru moniker. Rather than wowing with creamy ripeness and power of the Côte d’Or Grand Cru, this Blanchot dazzles with a mouth-filling density and a seemingly unending flinty minerality. Racy acidity amplifies its message and adds to its overall impact. It’s everything you’d expect from top-notch Chablis from a great vintage.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2016

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Preuses 2008 ($65, Henriot): This domaine has really taken off since the Champagne producers Henriot purchased it in 1998. The lime fruit in this wine is quite expressive, with chalky minerality giving it fine mouthfeel and great acidity boding well for a long life. 93 W. Blake Gray May 4, 2010

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2021 ($125, Adventures in Wine):

Chablis is perhaps the most distinctive of all Chardonnay wines. Drawn from well-sited slopes on the famous Kimmeridgian soils of the village, Chablis, especially Grand Cru Chablis, combines power with a raciness not found in other Chardonnays. British writer Hugh Johnson described it well: “Grand Cru Chablis tastes important, strong, almost immortal. And indeed it does last a remarkably long time; a strange and delicious sort of sour taste enters into it a ten years or so, and its golden green eye flashes meaningfully.” Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin’s excellent 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir reflects the character to which Mr. Johnson refers. The nose shows crisp apple and lemon fruits interwoven with floral, nut, herb, honey and spice nuances. The flavors are bright, pure and refreshing with the oyster-shell minerality of Chablis evident. The apple and citrus flavors are enhanced by the honey, nut and herb elements that linger at the finish. Even now, this a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis, but it will reward those who choose to cellar it for a decade and let its immortal essence evolve.
93 Wayne Belding Jul 18, 2023

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Preuses 2006 ($79, Louis Latour Inc.):

Power, complexity and elegance should be the hallmarks of Grand Cru Burgundy--and they are in this one. The flinty aspect here is almost smoky. Richer and longer than their very good Vaillons, their Les Preuses--usually my favorite of Simonnet-Febvre's Chablis--lives up to its Grand Cru billing.

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2008 ($64, Louis Latour USA): The 2008 vintage for Chablis, and white Burgundy in general, was superb. Simonnet-Febvre’s is an archetypical Grand Cru with minerality, concentration and definition, along with vibrant acidity. Tightly wound at this stage, it opens beautifully with time in the glass. It’s an excellent candidate for the cellar--some is going in mine. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 21, 2011

William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Bougros “Côte de Bouguerots” 2005 ($80, Henriot): Chablis was a particularly successful part of Burgundy in 2005 because the warmth during the growing season gave the wines an extra dose of ripeness. Fevre, one of the best producers in Chablis, always does marvelously well with his Côte de Bouguerots because it is a perfectly situated--steep slope facing due south--5 acre parcel within the 30-acre Grand Cru vineyard of Bougros. In 2005, it has more richness than usual but not at the expense of its hallmark flinty minerality, which is still unmistakable. Laser-like acidity amplifies the finish and keeps the wine fresh. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 22, 2008

William Fèvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Bougros 2004 ($85, Henriot Inc.): A big step up from this house's entry-level bottlings in complexity and intensity (as expected from a Grand Cru Chablis), Fèvre's 04 Bougros has an alluring smoky component on top of the stony elements and bright focused finish. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2006

Domain Tremblay, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2000 ($42, Classic Wine Imports): Slightly more intense than Tremblay's premier cru, his 2000 Vaudésir also has a slightly smoky quality atop the hallmark minerality of Chablis. Its grand cru status is apparent in its remarkably long finish. Although the piercing acidity of young Chablis has moderated with age, this is still a bright and vibrant wine. Don't miss this rare opportunity to discover for yourself how beautifully Chablis can develop. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2005 ($75, Wildman): Christian Moreau's 2005 Chablis proved to be very fine--I wasn't surprised because he is consistently one of the top producers--although I believe his 2006s are even better. Les Clos (and 'Clos des Hospices,' from a small parcel of Les Clos owned by Moreau family) is the Chablis most associated with Christian Moreau. His '05 Les Clos is rich, powerful, and a bit ripe, with flavors of lemon and grapefruit, and excellent minerality. 92 Ed McCarthy Apr 8, 2008

Domaine Robert Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Bougros 2009 ($68): Drouhin’s Bougros shows the diversity among the seven Grand Cru sites of Chablis. It’s slightly earthier than either Les Clos or Vaudésir while still retaining the quintessential steely minerality that you’d expect from Grand Cru Chablis. It has real richness and depth buttressed by cutting, but not aggressive, acidity. Drouhin made a range of exceptional Chablis in 2009. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2012

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Bougros "Cote de Bourguerots" 2004 ($75, Henriot): Ever since Henriot purchased Domaine Fèvre in 1998 the quality of the wines has skyrocketed. Fèvre still uses barrel fermentation, but under Henriot has abandoned new oak barrels for aging. The result is rich wine that speaks of the soil. The Côte de Bouguerots is a perfectly exposed portion of the grand cru vineyard, Bougros. The wine, always bigger and broader than Fèvre's Bougros, maintains its unique flinty minerality. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2004 ($50, Various importers): Jean-Marc Brocard eschews oak aging to make focused Chablis that reflect the location of the vineyard. He says he 'doesn't want to lose the typicity of Chablis.' His Les Clos is a nicely textured wine with appealing smokiness and terrific length. It's a true grand cru and will be even better with a year or two of additional age. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Les Clos” 2005 ($75, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

It has all the tight, high-strung charm of young Chablis, with the steely character one looks for in cool climate wines. The complex flavors (including a hint of pears and what can only be described as wet-stone minerality) are penetrating and persistent. 91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 24, 2007

Domaine Louis Michel & Fils, Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($99, Vineyard Brands):

Domaine Louis Michel & Fils use 100% stainless steel in all their Chablis production, from their Petit Chablis up through their Grand Cru, on the belief that this allows the pure flavors of the grape and terroir to shine through. In their 2020 Grand Cru Vaudesir, this results in a wine that is both potent and pretty. Notes of lemon rind mix with butter and cream wafting from the glass. Eighteen months of lees aging provides a creamy, medium-to-full mouthfeel that transitions to a bitter rhubarb finish. The rough and tumble finish is a bit disjointed from the rest of the wine. Nonetheless, it is a fine Chablis, even if the price is a touch steep.
92 John McDermott Feb 6, 2024

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2009 ($38, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Maison Joseph Drouhin owns 4.5 acres of the Chablis Premier Cru

hillside Montmains Vineyard. Once the grapes were pressed in Chablis, the juice was brought to the cellars in Beaune, barrel fermented and aged for 7-9 months. The 2009 Montmains Chablis shows a brilliant light gold color, warm buttery nose with subtle oak that follows through to elegant, richly textured flavors, with crisp citrusy acidity and nicely integrated oak nuances. The Montmains finishes with 13% alcohol and layers of fresh fruit and subtle mineral notes. Moving up from a regional Chablis to a Premier Cru clearly demonstrates the advantage of single vineyard fruit over regional blending. 96 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 28, 2012

Domaine Laroche, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Vaudevey 2005 ($42, Remy Cointreau USA):

Over the years I've slavishly embraced a number of the great white Burgundies of the Cotes de Beaune, all but ignoring Chablis. My

bad! For these are some of the most wondrous wines of the entire region -- and a bargain to boot when stacked up against the likes of Leflaive and Lafon. Domaine Laroche's '05 Les Vaudevey is a scintillating reminder that Chablis can be stunning in its own right. This vintage of Les Vaudevey delivers a flinty minerality that is pure Chablis, yet with a richness of aroma -- brioche and a whiff of butterscotch -- that is nothing if not a harbinger of things to come. With vibrant acidity, crisp pear and citrus fruit, and exceptional balance, this still-tight premier cru Chablis holds the promise of a brilliant evolution.

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2014 ($30, Louis Latour USA):

Simonnet-Febvre owns a piece of the Mont de Milieu vineyard, which may explain why it is always one of their top wines. Mont de Milieu (literally, the mountain in the middle), located on the right bank of Serein River near the strip of Grand Cru vineyards, takes its name from its location in the middle, separating the dukedoms of Burgundy and Champagne of the past. Vigorous and stony, the 2014 Mont de Milieu, is sleek and long. It should be in everyone’s cellar. It will take on additional complexity with a few years of bottle age.
94 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2017

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon “Cuvée Guy Moreau” 2010 ($49, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The grapes for the Cuvée Guy Moreau come from a small, 2.5 acre parcel, that was planted just after the World War II. Comparing this wine with Christian Moreau’s excellent “regular” Vaillon shows the importance of what old vines contribute. The flavors here are more complex and concentrated--still not heavy--and linger longer. Each sip brings additional nuances thought the same bright minerality and acidity remains. It’s a perfect choice for swordfish with a caper butter sauce. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2020 ($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Fourchaume, one of top Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis, abuts the Grand Cru vineyards on the right bank of the Serein River. Generally, the wines from Fourchaume are more voluptuous, relatively speaking of course, then the wines from other 1er cru vineyards. Tremblay’s 2020 Fourchaume has less ripeness than expected, especially in a hot vintage like 2020. Instead, this charmer has a gorgeous elegance and refinement. Flinty and flowery, this enchanting wine dances on the palate and then finishes with a vigorous streak of bright citrus acidity.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 4, 2023

Domaine Jolly et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume (L’Homme Mort) 2014 ($28, Esprit du Vin):

The Fourchaume vineyard, really a collection of neighboring plots all of which can be sold under the Fourchaume label, is known for producing the most generous and fruity Chablis. That said, they typically have, like this one from L’Homme Mort (“the dead man”), a riveting underpinning. The combination of fruitiness, stoniness and the brilliant acidity of the 2014 vintage makes this “dead man” very much alive and alluring. It’s a bargain at the price. Stock up because the disastrous weather in Chablis in 2016 is certain to result it unpleasant increases in price.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2016

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2020 ($57, Grand Cru Selections):

Domaine Moreau-Naudet’s 1er Cru Montmains Chablis is generous, verging on decadent, but it manages to maintain elegance and grace throughout. Chablis’ cool climate still leaves its mark in the form of ardent acidity, but that zip is complimented by rather ripe notes of yellow apple, green pair, custard, and white flowers. Indeed, the wine is rich and textured for Chablis, showing a creaminess in the mouth as result of extended lees aging. A restrained touch of new oak (and it is only a touch) offers the slightest hint of warm spice on the finish. A lovely white to enjoy on a cool fall day.
93 John McDermott Oct 17, 2023

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaulorent 2012 ($60, Henriot, Inc.):

The Vaulorent vineyard is the only premier cru vineyard that sits on the so-called Grand Cru hill of Chablis and is adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyards. Wines from this vineyard are frequently sold under the more recognized vineyard name, Fourchaume. Fevre, one of Chablis’s best producers opts to keep the wine separate from other parcels in the greater Fourchaume vineyard and bottle it separately because they feel it’s distinctive. And it is. It delivers a nearly endless stream of flinty or stony, somewhat smoky flavors. Pure and precise, it has great depth, but remains taut and lean -- a marvelous combination. Grilled swordfish, anyone?
93 Michael Apstein Mar 18, 2014

Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaulourent 2008 ($47, Henriot, Inc.): The name of this premier cru vineyard area is likely to be unfamiliar to many Chablis drinkers. The Vaulorent site, situated downhill from the grand cru Les Preuses, grows grapes that go into the premier cru Fourchaume, but since 1998 Domaine William Fevre has released the wine under the vineyard’s own name; ten producers grow grapes in this site, of which Fevre is the largest, with almost nine acres. The soil, a mix of Kimmeridgean subsoil and clay, gives wine with complexity, smokiness, power and complexity according to winemaker Didier Séguier. In fact, this is one of my two favorite premier crus of Fevre in the fine 2008 vintage. The wine’s terrific aroma is broad and mineral-driven, with fruity notes of peach skin. In the mouth, you’ll find full body and richness of texture yet high acidity that gives the wine depth. It tastes riper and richer than the Montmains premier cru, which I also love. Its combination of weight, richness and typical Chablis nervosity is very special. 93 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jul 27, 2010

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2021 ($51):

Chablis is perhaps the most distinctive of all Chardonnay wines. Drawn from well-sited slopes on the famous Kimmeridgian soils of the village, Chablis, especially Premier Cru Chablis, combines power with a raciness not found in other Chardonnays. Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin’s excellent 2021 Mont de Milieu is from one of the best Premier Cru vineyards and reflects a classic Chablisienne character. The nose shows crisp apple and lemon fruits interwoven with floral, nut, herb, honey and spice nuances. The flavors are bright and refreshing with the oyster-shell minerality of Chablis evident. The apple and citrus flavors show lovely purity and the honey, nut and herb elements make this a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis. Serve it with oysters or your favorite finfish or shellfish recipe.
93 Wayne Belding May 9, 2023

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Secher 2008 ($38, Dreyfus Ashby): Drouhin's Secher is formidable Chablis, exhibiting flinty mineral notes, firm acidity and subtle aromas of lemon, lime, honeysuckle and brioche. This is a promising white Burgundy that is classically structured. It won't peak for at least another three years, making it a perfect candidate for the cellar. 93 Robert Whitley Sep 7, 2010

Domaine Begue-Mathiot, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2011 ($35, Massanois Imports):

This is an utterly convincing Chablis from a producer I’d never encountered before. Crafted from 45 year-old vines, it shows excellent depth and persistence of flavor despite being -- appropriately for Chablis -- light and refreshing. Subtle fruit notes of green apple and lime flavor taper off slowly as the mineral notes become more predominant in the finish, which is long but still sharply defined by refreshing acidity. Begue-Mathiot makes an excellent straight Chablis and an impressive 1er Cru Vacoupins, but this Vaillons is the standout of the stable and well worth a search.
92 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2014

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2010 ($39, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Christian Moreau’s vines are located solely in the historic center of this famed premier cru vineyard--hence his use of the singular Vaillon instead of the more commonly seen Vaillons. With a piercing minerality, the wine reflects the prime location of his vines and the stature of the 2010 vintage in Chablis. Paradoxically, it’s both lacy and penetrating. The lingering citrus notes in the finish just enhance its appeal. A great choice for grilled or sautéed fish. 92 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2010 ($48, Frederick Wildman): Moreau’s single vineyard 2010 Chablis are a study in that elusive concept of terroir. Each is distinctive and unique, reflecting the exposure and soil of the site. Their only Premier Cru, their 2010 Vaillons is a step-up in concentration and body from Moreau’s village Chablis (also reviewed this week). Riveting acidity magnifies its alluring richness. What’s particularly gratifying is that the unique flinty minerality of Chablis is maintained despite the extra dose of ripeness. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2012

Domaine de Chantemerle, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2021 ($40):

Chablis is known for its bright acidity and mineral-driven notes, but Domaine de Chantelmerle puts their own twist on this stunning Premier Cru. This Chablis has classic notes of bright lemon curd, lime zest, and chalky minerality, but accents recalling honeysuckle and aged honeycomb are prominently displayed through both the aromas and flavors. While this may not be the most classical expression, the wine is incredibly high quality and an absolute delight to drink.
92 Vince Simmon Jul 25, 2023

Domaine de L’Églantière, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2021 ($27):

Domaine de L’Églantière is one of two estates owned by Jean Durup Père et Fils, one of the top producers in Chablis. (Château de Maligny is the other.) You often will see both the name of the estate and Durup’s name on the label. This Fourchaume has the depth you would expect from that vineyard balanced by an underlying stoniness characteristic of Chablis. A delicate lacy floral aspect appears as it sits in the glass. Enlivening acidity in the finish keeps it fresh and amplifies its charms. It is another example of why Chablis is often the place to look for bargain-priced top wines.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2022

Domaine Long Depaquit, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Vaillons 2010 ($45, Horizon Beverage Company): Domaine Long Depaquit, a leading name in Chablis, is owned by the Burgundy producer, Maison Albert Bichot. This premier cru from a top vintage is a clear step up from their easy-to-recommend and very satisfying village Chablis. It shows that this well-located vineyard, Vaillons, produces better grapes and is worthy of its premier cru status. It has more of everything -- green apple-like fruit and a marvelous minerality -- without losing any of its energy or verve. It’s a unique style of Chardonnay you shouldn’t miss.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 24, 2013

Etienne Boileau, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) "Vaillons" 2016 ($40, Massanois):

From the moment the cork is pulled, opulent aromas emerge recalling yellow peach, ripe apple, apricot, lemon zest, and white flowers. It has the freshness and purity of classic Chablis and shows its terroir origins. The palate is concentrated, juicy, and fresh, brimming with lemon-edged fruit and a chalky depth that anchors this bone-dry wine. The acidity and the minerality pair to give the wine a bright future for a few more years.
92 Miranda Franco Dec 8, 2020

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudon 2008 ($36, Dreyfus Ashby): This vineyard often delivers riper Chardonnay aromas, bordering on tropical. The dominant aroma is lemon oil, tangerine and baked bread, with a strong nod toward the mineral elements that make Chablis the distinctive wine that it is. Though is is more oily and viscous than other Chablis, the Drouhin Vaudon offers deceptively firm acidity. 92 Robert Whitley Sep 7, 2010

Louis Michel, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2010 ($40, Vineyard Brands): The 2010 vintage in Chablis is fabulous. The wines are similar to the well-structured 2008s, and more edgy and classic than the slightly riper 2009s. Louis Michel, the self described “Ayatollah of the tank,” has fashioned a stunning array of 2010s. Crisp and pure, a flowery nose is followed by firm minerality. A lemon-tinged finish reinforces the wine’s overall vibrancy. Great now with steamed clams. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2012

Roseline and Lionel Bussy, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2022 ($35, Alain Junguenet Selections):

Chablis is perhaps the most distinctive of all Chardonnay wines. Drawn from well-sited slopes on the famous Kimmeridgian soils of the village, Chablis combines power with a raciness not found in other Chardonnays. Roseline and Lionel Bussy’s excellent 2020 Vaillons is from one of the best Premier Cru vineyards and reflects a classic Chablisienne character. The nose shows crisp apple and lemon fruits are interwoven with floral, nutty, herb, honey and spice nuances. The flavors are bright and refreshing with the oyster-shell minerality of Chablis evident. The apple and citrus flavors show lovely purity and the honey, nut and herb elements make this a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis. Serve it with oysters or your favorite finfish or shellfish recipe.
92 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2014 ($28, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains, in my mind, the most undervalued area for top white wine. And for those looking for “unoaked Chardonnay,” it is that style’s birthplace. Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, acquired Simonnet-Febrve, a house established in 1840, in 2003 and a year later installed Jean-Philippe Archambaud as managing director. Under his leadership, Simonnet-Febrve has catapulted into the top rank of Chablis producers. They made an exquisite line-up of Chablis in 2014. This Premier Cru Vaillons has an appealing flowery component accenting its minerality and balanced by riveting acidity. What a bargain!
92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2017

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2015 ($41, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils labels his Vaillon as the singular, omitting the “s” to emphasize that their grapes come from the original and heart of the vineyard, not an adjacent vineyard that is allowed to use the name Vaillons. Their parcel -- and of course their talent and attention to detail -- explain the stature of this wine. A clear jump up from their village Chablis, it shows the stature of Premier Cru, with more length and complexity. Its vivacity and stoniness screams Chablis! Shellfish anyone? 91 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Domaine Oudin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaugiraut 2014 ($35, Jenny & François Selections):

Chablis remains one of the best values in white wine. Where else can you find a Chardonnay-based wine, a premier cru no less, with such character for the price? Nowhere. Domaine Oudin uses no oak aging, enhancing the complexity and body of this wine by stirring the lees. The pedigree of Premier Cru shines with that the subtle richness (we’re not talking opulent New World Chardonnay), buttressed by a crisp, long, lemony finish. A great choice for seafood this fall. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2017

Drouhin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Sécher 2008 ($36):

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2012 ($30, European Cellars):

Chablis ranks consistently as one of the world’s truly distinctive Chardonnays. Droin’s excellent 2012 Montmains shows the classic style of the region. The nose shows green apple and lime fruits with the oyster-shell minerality of the village plus nutty, floral, herb, and spice nuances. The flavors are bright and refreshing with the clean Chablisienne style pervading the palate. The Granny Smith apple, lemon and lime flavors show lovely purity and the nutty, herbal tones add nuance to this richly-textured wine. From a premier cru vineyard, Droin’s Chablis Montmains shows its prestigious heritage and will provide drinking pleasure for another 5 years.
91 Wayne Belding Oct 7, 2014

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2008 ($38, Dreyfus Ashby): With a lovely nose of brioche and citrus, the Montmains is expreessive for its age, perhaps because it's slightly riper and richer than usual. Despite the obvious ripeness and generous fruit on the palate, the structure is sound and the trademark minerality of Chablis present in all its glory. 91 Robert Whitley Sep 28, 2010

Louis Michel & Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmain 2016 ($35, Vineyard Brands):

Chablis is perhaps the most distinctive of all Chardonnay wines. Drawn from well-sited slopes on the famous Kimmeridgian soils of the village, Chablis combines power with a raciness not found in other Chardonnays. Louis Michel’s excellent 2016 Montmains is from one of the best Premier Cru vineyards and reflects a classic Chablisienne character. The nose shows crisp apple and lemon fruits are interwoven with floral, nutty, herb, honey and spice nuances. The flavors are bright and refreshing with the oyster-shell minerality of Chablis evident. The apple and citrus flavors show lovely purity and the honey, nut and herb elements make this a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis. Serve it with oysters or your favorite finfish or shellfish recipe.
91 Wayne Belding Feb 12, 2019

Samuel Billaud, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2013 ($41, Langdon Shiverick Imports):

The 2013 vintage lacks the reputation of the great ones, 2010 and 2012, in Chablis. But consumers should not overlook it. Talented producers, such as Samuel Billaud, make excellent wines even in what is often called “difficult” years. The Billaud name is a legend in Chablis: Domaine Billaud Simon, currently led by Bernard Billaud, has been one of the region’s top producers since its founding 200 years ago in 1815. (Domaine Faiveley recently purchased Domain Billaud Simon.) Samuel, Bernard’s nephew, made wine at his uncle’s domaine for two decades. But, as is common in France in general and in Burgundy in particular, disagreements among family members emerge and individuals break away to start their own operations, which is what Samuel did in 2009. He took his talents with him as evidence by this 2013 Mont de Milieu, one of the top Premier Crus in Chablis. An engaging floral aspect gives way to a firm stoniness that awakes the palate. A pure and clean wine, it would be perfect with simply poached or sautéed fish.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2015

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2014 ($35, Louis Latour USA): Fourchaume is a Premier Cru vineyard that lies on the right bank of the Serein River, adjacent to the string of Grand Cru vineyards. To my mind, it is typically the most opulent of the premier crus with more ripeness and less minerality than the others. Simonnet-Febvre’s 2014 Fourchaume is richer and riper than their Vaillons or Mont de Milieu, but consistent with their style, is very racy with an attractive edginess.
91 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2017

Simonnet-Fèbvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2009 ($25, Louis Latour, USA): Simonnet-Fèbvre makes a focused, attractively leaner style of Chablis, in part because they use no new oak. Their style is particularly well suited to the more opulent 2009 vintage. Unlike their 2008 Premier and Grand Crus, which would benefit for further bottle age, this 2009 Vaillons will reward you now. Despite the riper 2009 vintage in Chablis, no one would mistake this for a California Chardonnay. A firm minerality underpins green apple-like fruit flavors that expand in your mouth. The laser-like focused finish makes it a joy to drink. It screams for shellfish or fish simply grilled or broiled. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

William Fèvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2006 ($45, Henriot): William Fèvre is one of the major--and best--names in Chablis. They own vineyards from which they produce wines labeled 'Domaine William Fèvre' and also purchase grapes from others for wine they label as 'William Fèvre.' Fèvre made an array of lovely wines--both Domaine and non-Domaine--in 2006. This classic Chablis has an alluring, subtle creaminess atop minerality. It's a lean styled Chardonnay based wine--as opposed to a butterball--but still has plenty of substance and stuffing. Its premier cru moniker shows, not by power, but by finesse and length. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2008

Dauvissat, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2004 ($35, Vineyard Brands): A yeasty softness underlies the crisp apple flavors in this subtly sophisticated Chablis, which exhibits superb balance. Delicious now, it shows excellent aging potential, and should become even more complex and compelling with a few years in the cellar. 90 Paul Lukacs Jan 23, 2007

Domain Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmain 2000 ($23, Classic Wine Imports): That this wine is less expensive than Tremblay's current releases--the dollar was much stronger 5 years ago--shows the tremendous effect of exchange rates on the price of imported wine. Wonderfully developed with minty and herbal overtones, it still retains the classic flinty minerality of Chablis. Bottle age has just added a touch of softness and roundness to the classic angularity and edginess of Chablis. It's a treat to find aged Chablis still available in the retail market and a bargain to boot. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2013 ($34, Chemins des Vins): The Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis yield some of the world’s best values among high quality Chardonnays. The excellent 2013 Fourchaume vineyard bottling from Séguinot-Bordet shows the classic style of the region. The nose offers ripe apple, pineapple and lime fruits with the oyster-shell minerality of the village plus floral, herb, and almond nuances. The flavors are bright and refreshing with the pure, racy citrus and tropical fruits interwoven with nutty, herbal and oyster-shell mineral nuances. This delicious Premier Cru Chablis shows its prestigious heritage even now and will continue to improve for another five years or more.
90 Wayne Belding Jun 9, 2015

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($37, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The grapes for this 2009 Premier Cru Chablis come from three Premier Cru parcels owned by Domaine Joseph Drouhin and from other grower partners. Pressing was done in Chablis and the juice was barrel-fermented in Beaune, then 7-9 months aging. The result is a brilliant light gold color, low intensity citrus zest and subtle oak aromatics, bright creamy flavors with good texture, mineral and citrus notes, 13% alcohol and a long textured finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 28, 2012

Louis Michel, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2014 ($32, Vineyard Brands):

Chablis is perhaps the most distinctive of all Chardonnay wines. Louis Michel’s excellent 2014 Montmains reflects a classic Chablisienne character. The nose shows ripe apple and lemon fruits are interwoven with floral, nutty, herb, honey and spice nuances. The flavors are bright and refreshing with the distinctive oyster-shell minerality of Chablis evident. The apple and citrus flavors show lovely purity and the honey, nut and herb elements make this a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis. It’s great with your favorite fresh finfish or shellfish recipe!
90 Wayne Belding Jul 19, 2016

Simonnet Fèbvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2009 ($29, Louis Latour USA): Many of the 2009 Chablis have an added ripeness which many find attractive, but others think it overshadows the unique minerality that these wines offer. Simonnet-Febvre has managed to capture the added lushness of the vintage without losing the quintessential flintiness. It’s tightly wound and actually tastes more like a 2008, a great year in which the Chablis are very minerality, than a “typical” 2009. It’s easy to recommend to accompany simply grilled fish this summer, especially at the price. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Nearly as good as Drouhin's 1er Cru Montmains bottling from 2005 (which is a very good deal in its own right), this bottling is a downright steal, especially in light of the strong vintage and prevailing exchange rates. Very fresh and lively, with lots of bright, zesty acidity, this nevertheless shows admirable concentration and depth of flavor, with green apple and citrus notes as well as nice mineral accents in the persistent aftertaste.

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Séchers 2005 ($33, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This lovely Chablis rings totally true to the region of origin, with fruit recalling ripe apples, a very subtle spice note, and very pleasant mineral tinges in the finish. Medium-bodied, it offers impressive depth of flavor without a lot of weight, making it an excellent partner for almost any freshwater fish dish. 88 Michael Franz Jun 17, 2008

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

A very nice rendition of Chablis that offers good fruit and interesting mineral nuances, this features moderately ripe apple fruit with a citrus edge. Medium-bodied, with good depth of flavor but still a light, fresh overall impression, this will work well with many preparations of finfish or shellfish.

Domaine des Malandes, Chablis Premier Cru Montmains (Burgundy, France) 2021 ($41, Terrior Selections):

The Marchive family have created an elegant wine with delicate aromas of Meyer lemon,white peach and grapefruit with chalky, vanilla, floral notes. It displays a beautiful, seamless balance of fruit and acidity. Lyne Marchive started the winery in 1973 and over 30 years she expanded vineyards and modernized the winery. In 2018 she stepped aside, and her son, Richard became Managing Director and her daughter, Amandine took over sales, marketing and communication. Guenole Breteaudeau has been the winemaker since 2006.
96 Rebecca Murphy Jan 16, 2024

Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Grandes Ruchottes 2005 ($100, Wildman): Young and thus predictably tight, but nonetheless already very compelling, this is a simply stunning wine, with superb balance and a layered finish that lasts for a full minute. It undoubtedly will become much more complex and nuanced with a few years of cellaring, but already is delicious. Tasting it served as a reminder that Chardonnay grown in top Burgundy sites simply does not taste like the same grape grown elsewhere. More to the point, it tastes better. 94 Paul Lukacs Feb 19, 2008

Domaine Marc Morey & Fils, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Virondot 2004 ($86, Robert Kacher Selections): A smoky richness, minerality, and engaging earthiness characteristic of the wines from Chassagne make this a wonderful white Burgundy. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2006

Louis Jadot, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Abbaye de Morgeot 2007 ($60, Kobrand): The 2007 white Burgundies have been lost in the shuffle. The vintage as a whole has been overshadowed, rightfully so, by the 2008, 2009 and now 2010 vintages. And many of the ‘07 reds, charming at the outset, are now started to show signs of wear. That said, the 2007 white Burgundies that have sufficient ripeness to balance the acidity of the vintage, like this one, are lovely now. Jadot’s Abbaye de Morgeot has the richness and minerality of Chassagne couple with the vivacity of the vintage. Lively acidity amplifies the flavors and makes the finish seem endless. 93 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2012

Domaine Bernard Morey et Fils, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Morgeot 2005 ($60, Vineyard Brands): This is just one of the many successful wines Domaine Bernard Morey turned out in 2005. The alluring earthiness of Chassagne comes through even at this stage in this tightly wound young wine. The richness in the finish indicates you'll be rewarded even more if you give it a few years to open. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2007

Vincent & Sophie Morey, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Embrazées 2010 ($72, Vineyard Brands): In 2007, the venerable Bernard Morey, a fixture in Chassagne Montrachet, retired and divided his Domaine between his sons, Vincent and Thomas, both of whom had worked with their father for decades. So now there are two more Moreys in Chassagne. No wonder Burgundy is confusing. Vincent and his wife, Sophie, make excellent wines from their 50 acres. This one delivers the smokey and chalky notes I associate with Chassagne along with a precision and focus befitting a premier cru. A firm, almost edgy, vibrancy awakens the palate.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012

Joseph Drouhin, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Morgeot 1er Cru Marquis de Laguiche 2010 ($114, Dreyfus Ashby): Maison Joseph Drouhin has been a faithful steward of this famous property for more than 60 years, with many triumphant vintages to its credit. This 2010 Marquis de Laguiche Les Morgeot will likely live long and be remembered as one of the finest in a long line, for it embodies the magic of Chassagne, with its splendid depth and richness combined with a firm backbone, characteristics that set the upper echelon of white Burgundy apart from merely very good chardonnay. This is a full-bodied wine that exhibits aromas of baked apple, pear and toasty brioche, with a hint of honey on the finish. While it is clearly gorgeous to drink now, another five years in a temperature-controlled cellar or wine cabinet would do it no harm.
96 Robert Whitley Jan 15, 2013

Domaine Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet (Cote de Beaune, Burgundy) Morgeots 2002 ($135, Diageo Chateau & Estate): Domaine Ramonet, one of the shining stars of white Burgundy producers, is so hard to come by that I jumped on this wine when I spotted it on a wine list in a New York restaurant. It lived up to its reputation, and then some. It has penetrating, complex aromas and flavors, mainly citrus and tart green apple, with amazing depth. It seems to have cords of steel as its structure. What a classy wine! Still very tight, of course. This Premier Cru should age beautifully for another 12 to 15 years. The 2002 vintage, by the way, is a very fine vintage for white Burgundy. 94 Ed McCarthy Jan 24, 2006

Maison Louis Jadot, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($45, Kobrand): Jacques Lardière, Jadot's brilliant winemaker, told me that half the wine for this bottling came from premier cru vineyards. It certainly tastes like it. More intense and refined than most village wines, it has an engaging minerality, unexpected complexity and great length. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Chateau de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($35, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): Unusually rich and long for a village wine, this Chassagne-Montrachet has the characteristic attractive earthiness for which that town is known. It's a lot of wine for the price. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine Bouzereau-Gruère, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Blanchot Dessous 2016 ($48, AP Imports):

This wine exemplifies the confusion surrounding Burgundy. The vineyard, Blanchot, is divided into two parts, Blanchot Dessus (dessus means “upper”) and Blanchot Dessous (dessous means lower). Blanchot Dessus is a classified as a Premier Cru, while the lower part, is just a village wine. (Both parts of the vineyard abut Grand Cru vineyards.) Though “just” a village wine, in hands of Domaine Bouzereau-Gruère, it tastes like a Premier Cru. Happily, for the consumer, it’s priced as a village wine. Creamy and stony with lively acidity that keeps it fresh -- and you coming back for more -- it’s a wine that Burgundy lovers should snap up.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2019

Joseph Faively, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($65, Frederick Wildman): Very impressive for a villages-level wine, this is ripe and rounded and almost candied in character, yet with a remarkable underlying freshness and drive. Notes of baked apple and peach show the ripeness of the vintage, but a finishing wave of acidity and minerality provide balance and refreshment. 92 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2012

Olivier Leflaive, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($52, Frederick Wildman): Here’s village wine that reminds us that you don’t need to chase premier or grand cru Burgundies to find enjoyment. Alluring flinty and smoky elements harmonize with a green apple-like freshness. Creamy nuances are nicely offset by an uplifting vibrancy. It will undoubtedly improve with cellaring because of its harmony, but with aeration in the glass, it’s a fine choice for grilled swordfish tonight. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Les Blanchots Dessous Village 2014 ($64, Esprit du Vin):

The Domaine Coffinet, established in 1860 in Chassagne-Montrachet, has been passed from one generation of the Coffinet family to the next. In 1989, Fernand and Cécile Coffinet split their 30-acre domaine between their two daughters, giving rise to Domaine Coffinet-Duverney, now run by Laura Coffinet and Philippe Duvernay. They make an exceptional line-up of wines from Chassagne, including this village one, several premier crus, and a Bâtard-Montrachet. Tasting their wines side-by-side is a lesson in Burgundy in general and Chassagne-Montrachet in particular. Les Blanchots Dessous (lower Blanchots) lies immediately adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard, Criots Bâtard Montrachet. It lies in a bit of a gully, so despite the proximity to its famous neighbor, it carries only a village appellation. But in Coffinet-Duvernay’s hands, it makes a sensational village wine--the equal of other producers’ premier cru--conveying a chalky minerality, a hint of creamy charm and great verve. The latter is the 2014 vintage speaking. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2016

Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet (Cote de Beaune, France) 2004 ($38, Louis Latour): Latour's Chassagne shows the typical earthy character of wines from that village. This wine shows the clear difference and the importance of location in Burgundy. It's distinctive and reflects the uniqueness of the village. Anyone who wants to understand why the French label their wines by where the grapes grow instead of the name of the grape should taste a Chassagne next to a Puligny and witness how these Chardonnay-based wines differ because of location. 90 Michael Apstein May 16, 2006

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($53, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Drouhin’s 2008 village white wines from the three major appellations in the Côte de Beaune--this one, their Puligny-Montrachet and their Meursault--make an excellent case for the French tradition of naming wines by where the grapes are grown, rather than the variety. All are made from Chardonnay, but each reflects the unique character of its origins. The trio, tasted side-by-side, would be an excellent introduction into the subtleties of Burgundy. This Chassagne has the earthy chalky character characteristic of the wines from that village. It’s length and refinement reminds you it’s from one of Burgundy’s premier white wine villages. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 3, 2010

Maison Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($50, Louis Latour USA): Regular readers know I am a fan of Latour’s Burgundies. Combine my enthusiasm for the house with the quality of the 2007 vintage for white Burgundies and you get a ringing endorsement for their whites across the board. This one marries the subtle earthiness characteristic of the wines from that village with am engaging creaminess. It’s enlivened by a citrus-infused, penetrating acidity. If you ever want to see--and taste--the difference between Chardonnay grown in the three major white wine villages of Burgundy, invite a few friends over, grab a bottle of Latour’s 2007 Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, and open them along with this one. It’s an education. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 9, 2010

Vincent Girardin, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($49, Vineyard Brands): Although hardly an inexpensive wine, this is a relatively modest price for a 2005 Chassagne, and since the wine is excellent, it actually looks like a bit of a bargain. Pure fruit recalls ripe golden apples with a peach undertone, and the influence of wood is just right, lending accents of toast, woodsmoke, spices and grilled nuts. Beautifully integrated, this will get even more complex with a few more years in bottle. 90 Michael Franz Nov 20, 2007

Domaine Michel Picard, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) "En Pimont" 2005 ($56, Brown Forman): The much-praised 2005 vintage in Burgundy produced white wines, such as this one, with excellent ripeness. Some of them, lack acidity, though that is not true of this bottling, which is beautifully balanced. The effect of oak aging is noticeable, but not overdone. A hint of white flowers followed by lush fruit are the predominant notes. It shows that village wines--as opposed to premier cru--can be quite stylish. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008

Joseph Drouhin, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Morgeot “Marquis de Laguiche” 2007 ($95, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The Drouhin firm has exclusive rights to the grapes from the famous Marquis de Laguiche domaine, which includes about 5 acres of the Grand Cru, Le Montrachet vineyard, and about an equal amount in the Premier Cru vineyard, Morgeot. Formerly just labeled Chassagne Montrachet, starting with the 2007 vintage Drouhin has made its Premier Cru status clear by putting “Morgeot” on the label. Although Drouhin does not manage the vineyard, their team makes the wine. And what a wine it is, especially in 2007. It has the rare combination of intensity and elegance with extraordinary length and focus. Enlivening citrus acidity supports the delicate peachy and apricot-like nuances and subtle earthy minerality. Captivating now, my experience with this wine tells me it will evolve beautifully over the next decade. If you can afford to splurge, this is the wine for you. 97 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2010

Joseph Drouhin, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Marquis de Laguiche 2004 ($85, Dreyfus Ashby):

This is about as close as you get to grand cru white Burgundy without actually getting there. The Drouhin family tends the Marquis' vineyard and makes the wine, certainly one of the most outstanding premier cru in the Cote de Beaune. The '04 is an absolutely stunning wine, showing a perfumed nose and exceptional richness in the mouth, with a creamy texture that is punctuated by a steely acidity that bodes well for the future. There is a gorgeous lemoncreme note that persists through the finish. If you've ever consdiered cellaring a white wine, this would be a good place to start. 97 Robert Whitley Nov 28, 2006

Lucien Le Moine, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Romanée 2007 ($120, Vintus): Okay, $120 is a lot to spend for a bottle of wine, especially a Premier Cru. But tasted blind, you’d swear it’s Grand Cru Burgundy. Le Moine, a small négociant—his total production is only 2,500 cases—started just a decade ago, but has already made a name for himself. He works with one or two growers in each appellation focusing on Premier and Grand Crus and producing only a few barrels of each wine. Judging from his sensational line up of 2007 reds and whites, he knows what he’s doing. This one is simply stunning. Tightly wound, with a laser-like focus, riveting minerality unfolds in the glass. Invigorating citrus elements balance and amplify the core of fruity earthiness. The complexity is astounding as nuances continue to emerge with air. This one should go into the cellar for five to ten years. 96 Michael Apstein Mar 30, 2010

Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Romanée 2011 ($112, Polaner): The 2011 white Burgundies reflect the inconsistency of the region. The white wines from some producers are flabby while other producers managed to capture acidity and make stunning wines. Fontaine-Gagnard falls into the latter category. Located in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet and focusing on wines from that appellation, they made a superb array of 20111s, from their village wine to this one from one of the village’s best premier cru vineyards. Their La Romanée is precise with an engaging chalky minerality and riveting acidity, which imparts vibrancy and amplifies the flavors. Long and focused, this is great white Burgundy that, while captivating now, will evolve beautifully over the next decade because its balance is impeccable.
95 Michael Apstein Mar 12, 2013

Philippe Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Vergers 2004 ($55, Various importers): Colin has managed the high-wire act of balancing intensity and elegance with this delicious combination of earthy minerality coupled with a cleansing citric edge. The finish seemingly never ends. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Blanchots Dessus 2014 ($104, Esprit du Vin):

Les Blanchots Dessus (upper Blanchots; note the slight difference in spelling and, at least according to the French, but not this Anglophone, an enormous difference in pronunciation) comprises the upper part of the Blanchots vineyard and lies immediately to the south and adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Montrachet. The exposure of Les Blanchots Dessus, while superior to its lower half, still qualifies it only for Premier Cru status despite its neighbor. While the difference in pronunciation may be subtle to some of us, the difference between Les Blanchots Dessus and Dessous is obvious. Les Blanchots Dessus is just better--a touch more powerful, but mostly its grandeur lies in better definition, more elegance and a greater length. Tasting them side-by-side demonstrates that someone knew where to draw the line in that vineyard, separating village wine from premier cru. 94 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2016

Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2014 ($102, Esprit du Vin): Les Caillerets, one of the grandest premier cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, lies further south and further up the slope from Les Blanchots. Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay’s 2014, a bit closed at this stage, is tightly wound and racy, showing a dramatic stony minerality in contrast to the chalkiness from Les Blanchots Dessus. The contrast among these three wines is amazing. Despite being made by the same winemaking team using the same grapes grown within yards of one another, the wines are dramatically different. Anyone who wants to see--and taste--why Burgundies excite people needs to try these stellar trio. And, if you win the lottery, there’s always Coffinet-Duvernay’s 2014 Bâtard-Montrachet (96, $303). 94 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2016

Domaine Marc Morey & Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Virondot 2004 ($85, Robert Kacher Selections): For all its power and touches of earthiness, this wine is remarkably elegant. It delivers incredible satisfaction with its long, lush finish. 94 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine Philippe Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Chenevottes 2004 ($66, Diageo): Philippe Colin, who makes stunning white Burgundies generally, was particularly successful in 2004. His wine from the Chenevottes vineyard is a wonderful expression of Chassagne-Montrachet, capturing the unique combination of earthiness and minerality for which that village is famous. It's long and -- despite its size -- elegant, befitting a premier cru. 94 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2006

Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2018 ($96, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Château de la Maltroye, a consistently reliable producer of both red and white wines, succeeded admirably in 2018. This white, from their monopole, exhibits the broader and weightier minerality characteristic of Chassagne, compared to Puligny. Good acidity balances and amplifies its charms. When I tasted it in Burgundy in 2019 just after it had been bottled, I scored it highly. Now, as a hint of lava-like earthiness emerges and adds to its considerable appeal, I like it even more. Drink now, or cellar for a few years.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 9, 2021

Génot-Boulanger, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Vergers 2009 ($75, Frederick Wildman): Génot-Boulanger made a sensational array of white wines in 2009,

capturing bright acidity that eluded many because of the warmth of the growing season. His Les Vergers harnesses the chalky earthy intensity of a 2009 premier cru Chassagne and couples it with a laser-like focus. The wine’s purity and freshness is captivating. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2012

Maison Louis Jadot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle Domaine du Duc de Magenta 2005 ($74, Kobrand): Duc de Magenta owns Clos de la Chapelle, a small well-located parcel within the Morgeot vineyard. Location is always important, but especially in Morgeot because, at over 125 acres, it is one of the largest 1er cru vineyards in Burgundy and as a result, produces wines of variable quality. The location of Duc de Magenta's vines explains, in part, why the wine is consistently excellent. Jadot just renewed their contract with Duc de Magenta to buy their grapes, make and sell the wines. Creamy and classy, this is one of the more refined wines from Chassagne-Montrachet, a village that often produces earthier, heavier white Burgundies. Terrific length and bracing acidity suggest this wine will develop beautifully over the years. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2007

Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Chenevottes 2009 ($55, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Domaines & Saveurs Collection): Since Jean-Pierre Cournut took over from his father in 1995, this domaine has been making terrific wines. This one shows the lush ripeness of the 2009 vintage, but retains the earthy expressiveness of Chassagne-Montrachet and unusually--for the vintage--bold acidity. Its brightness awakens the palate. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2012

Domaine Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Morgeot 2007 ($80, The Sorting Table): Moreau's 2007 Morgeot has a minerality and elegance often associated with wines from Puligny-Montrachet. That said, the engaging earthiness that makes wines from Chassagne so popular is still apparent. Like the rest of Moreau's fine 2007 white Burgundies, this one is tightly focused, classy and very long. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Maison Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2010 ($60, Louis Latour, USA): The 2010 vintage produced excellent white Burgundies--and this is one of them. Les Caillerets is one of the top 1er Cru vineyards in Chassagne and Latour is one of Burgundy’s top producers, so it should come as no surprise that this is a riveting wine. Tightly wound at this stage, it’s a finesse-filled wine that delivers a lovely chalky minerality buttressed by vibrant acidity. It was even better the second night after being open for 24 hours, suggesting it has a long life ahead of it. So either make room in your cellar or if drinking it now, decant it--yes, I know it’s a white wine--before serving. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2012

Thomas Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Morgeot 2007 ($82, Louis Dressner Selections): Bernard Morey, head of the famed Domaine Bernard Morey et Fils, divided his vineyards between his two sons, Thomas and Vincent, who are now bottling their own wines. Thomas's white wines are just terrific, long and balanced. This Morgeot has excellent ripeness and earthy richness that balances the bracing acidity characteristic of the 2007 whites. Great aromatics and a lengthy finish suggest it will reward a few years in the cellar although it's hard to resist now. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2009

Domaine Henri Clerc et Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Morgeot 2006 ($78, VOS Selections): One of the wonderful things about this Domaine's wines is that they reflect where the grapes grow. This bottling is true to the earthier, less steely character of Chassagne compared to Puligny. Accessible now, it delivers slightly riper fruit notes, still buttressed by bracing acidity. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 1, 2008

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2007 ($98, Skurnik): Les Caillerets is one of the best premier cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet. The wines, such as this one, have an elegance and refinement as well as the usual earthy notes typical of the wines from the village. Colin-Morey performs no bâtonage and very little racking, preferring a less opulent style of wine. Tightly wound at this stage, the acidity of the 2007 is apparent. Nonetheless, there’s plenty of underlying stoniness and minerality that will emerge over the next several years, so plan on cellaring it rather than having it with dinner tonight. You’ll be pleased you did. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Embrazées 2007 ($90, Skurnik): Similar to Colin-Morey’s Les Caillerets (also reviewed this week), this premier cru is tightly wound. Colin-Morey’s focus on producing structured, less ripe wines is amplified by the compactness of the 2007 vintage. That said, with time in the glass, it opens and intriguing spiciness emerges to complement the chalky earthiness. Bright and focused, this exciting wine needs a few years of bottle age to reveal its complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010

Olivier Leflaive, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint Marc 2007 ($89, Wildman): The Clos Saint Marc is a small walled enclave (clos) within the 1er cru Les Vergers vineyard. As with Leflaive's other 2007 white Burgundies, this one also reflects the site where the grapes grew. Typical of Chassagne, it has a slightly chunky quality that complements its creamy minerality and citric edginess. The ripe fruit flavors balance the acidity nicely so it's lovely to drink now. Befitting a 1er cru, is has better complexity and more finesse, not more power. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Domaine Sylvie and Thomas Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Vide Bourse 2007 ($97, Louis Dressner Selections):

La Vide Bourse (literally, empty purse), one of the smallest premier cru vineyards in Chassagne, lies just below the Grand Cru vineyard, Batard-Montrachet. Although the price may empty your purse, the wine will fill you with pleasure. Fleshier and riper than Sylvie and Thomas's other excellent 2007 whites, it retains great minerality and balance. Long, lush and layered with terrific vibrancy, it will evolve and improve over the next decade, so there's no rush.

Olivier Leflaive, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Abbaye de Morgeot “Recolte du Domaine” 2010 ($76, Frederick Wildman): Olivier Leflaive is known mostly as a talented négociant. They primarily

buy grapes from others throughout Burgundy and transform those grapes into wine. They also own some vineyards. Wines made from the vineyards they own are labeled Recolte du Domaine. And they are even better than their very good négociant wines. Tightly wound now, it has all the markings that it will evolve beautifully. It has a bit of everything--chalky minerality, spice and citrus verve--without too much of anything. You feel the oak without tasting it. Refined, precise and very long, it dances across the palate. Like all top-notch white Burgundies, it needs time, so plan on putting this one in the cellar for a few years rather than on tonight’s dining room table. 94 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Domaine Sylvie and Thomas Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Embrazees 2007 ($82, Louis Dressner Selections): Although Les Embrazees may not be the most well-known premier cru vineyard in Chassagne, there's no mistaking the premier cru quality in the bottle. This is a big step up--both in complexity and price--from their village St. Aubin (also reviewed this week) and reinforces the rationale of the classification system. It delivers a classy combination of ripe fruit and earth-like flavors buttressed by a lively--but not overwhelming--citric zing. Befitting a great wine, layers of flavor--smoke, a hint of tropical fruits--reveal themselves as the wine sits in the glass. Sylvie and Thomas Morey confirm my initial impressions of the 2007 whites--when they have sufficient ripeness to balance the natural acidity--as this one does--they are excellent wines. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2008

Thomas Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Embrazées 2007 ($80, Louis Dressner Selections): Bernard Morey dissolved his estate by leaving half of the vines to each of his sons, Thomas and Vincent, each of whom are making and bottling their own wines. Thomas Morey made a stunning array of whites in 2007. His Les Embrazées has plenty of ripeness to balance the considerable acidity of that vintage without losing the characteristic and appealing earthy nature of Chassagne-Montrachet. Judging from this and his other beautifully balanced 2007 whites (previously reviewed), he is a producer to watch. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 17, 2009

Joseph Drouhin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Morgeot (Burgundy, France) Marquis de Laguiche 2010 ($90, Dreyfus Ashby): Elegantly powerful, Drouhin’s house style of “balance, harmony, finesse and character” is exemplified in this wine. The fruit is surprisingly ripe, almost tropical, but restraining mineral notes and crisp acidity create the balance. Character comes from the grapes grown in this renowned terroir, which is tended with a focus on limiting quantity by the Drouhin family. Harmony and balance are contributed by the careful treatment of the harvested grapes and the evolving wine by enologist Jérôme Faure-Brac, under the watchful eye of Véronique Drouhin. In all it is a complex, layered and concentrated wine that drinks well now, and will continue to develop in the bottle for many years to come.
98 Rebecca Murphy Dec 10, 2013

Bouchard Père et Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($300): Bouchard Père et Fils, owns over 1/3 of this Grand Cru vineyard that sits just above Le Montrachet, making them its largest owner. Their roughly 6.5-acres are located in all four terraces of the vineyard, which helps explain why their Chevalier-Montrachet is so complex. Each terrace has slightly difference soil and exposure so they vinify the parcels separately and then blend them to create a single wine, according to winemaker Frédéric Weber. Bouchard’s 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet is both explosive and elegant. Rich and steely, it’s a study in paradox. Seemingly endless, it continues to dazzle the palate after you swallow. (It’s one of those wines that you can’t spit at a tasting.) So, if you’re a 1-percenter or have just won the lottery, here’s a wine for you. Based on Bouchard’s track record with Chevalier-Montrachet, I’d cellar the 2014 for at least a decade.
98 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017

Domaine Leflaive, Chevalier-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($406, Wilson Daniels): The stylistic--not quality--difference (since there is none) between Leflaive's Bâtard and Bienvenues-Bâtard and this wine speaks to the essence of the French concept of terroir. Grown within a stone's throw of one another, the Chevalier highlights the minerality side--rather than the fruit flavors--of the appellation. The balanced complexity and layers of flavor--spice, citric notes and subtle creaminess that adds a gorgeous texture--make this an unforgettable wine. Tight at this stage of its development, aeration brings out addition character and suggests cellaring for a decade or so will bring great rewards. 98 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2007

Domaine Louis Latour, Chevalier-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Les Demoiselles 2012 ($440, Louis Latour USA): Chevalier-Montrachet, a 19-acre vineyard, sits just above Montrachet on a more rocky terrain with poorer soil. In my mind, it is home to Burgundy’s most exciting white wine, marrying the richness of Montrachet with a firmness reflected by the stony site. Louis Latour and Louis Jadot jointly own a 2.6-acre plot there, called Les Demoiselles. Both producers consistently make a stunning wine from this plot, but Latour’s 2012 rises above their usual exceptional high level. Latour has captured the ripeness of the vintage without sacrificing minerality or softening the wine’s characteristic firm backbone. It’s stony, smoky and rich simultaneously with extraordinary length and finesse. The finish is seemingly endless. Though tightly wound, it’s remarkably expressive now with time in the glass. That said, put it in the cellar for a decade or two to see its real glory.
98 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2014

Domaine Leflaive, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($360, Wilson Daniels): Leflaive's most powerful, full-bodied Burgundy, the 2004 Chevalier Montrachet still needs another five years to develop fully, and will live for another 20 years. Right now, its structure is steely, but also has the silkiness of a fine, complex wine. 94 Ed McCarthy Apr 10, 2007

Domaine Parent, Corton Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($190, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

White Corton is a rarity, since most producers label it Corton-Charlemagne. Indeed, Anne Parent, who runs the eponymous domaine with her sister, Catherine, says she legally could label hers as Corton-Charlemagne, but since it comes from the east-facing portion of the hill in the Ladoix-Serrigny commune, she prefers to label it simply…Corton. Domaine Parent, best known for their stellar wines from Pommard where they are based, also makes a stunning white Corton, in part because Anne Parent does not cut corners. For example, when she replants a vineyard she lets the ground lie fallow for four to five years so that, as she says, “the soil can rejuvenate itself.” And then she notes, “You need 10 years for vines to become ‘settled,’” before they produce high-quality fruit. No wonder her 2014 white Corton sings. It conveys a beguiling combination of floral notes, pineapple-like spice and a seemingly endless vibrancy, which amplifies all of the components. Befitting a Grand Cru Burgundy, I’d put it in the cellar for a decade -- if you can keep your hands off it.
96 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2016

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($120, Louis Latour USA):

No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour. Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton. The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes. However, in a year like 2010 -- which was superb for both reds and whites -- Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is magnificent. Tightly wound even now at four years of age, it takes time in the glass to open. Indeed, its stature was far more apparent after sitting in the refrigerator overnight. Very different from the other white Grand Crus (thankfully, in price as well as character), Latour’s Corton Charlemagne has appealing spice and citrus rind components atop its firm minerality. The 2010 has enormous concentration complemented by breathtaking vigor. Its lush and firm simultaneously. Judging from my experience with their Corton Charlemagne, the 2010 will evolve gracefully over the next two decades.
97 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2015

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($90, Louis Latour Inc.): The 2008 vintage was a great one for white Burgundy. In general, the wines are a touch riper than the 2007s, but still have plenty of balancing and enlivening acidity. Latour’s 2008 Corton-Charlemagne, like their 2007 (also reviewed this week) is destined to be another one of their memorable ones because of the captivating interplay of the earthy ripeness, minerality and focus it shows now. At this stage, it conveys slightly more power without losing its precision when compared to the 2007. And similar to their 2007, it gained considerable complexity with air. Fans of white Burgundy would be wise not to miss it. This will benefit from a decade in the cellar. 97 Michael Apstein Dec 21, 2010

Maison Louis Jadot, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($138, Kobrand): Always one of my favorites of Jadot's whites, I purchased this wine as a 'future' while it was still in barrel. My reaction after tasting this Grand Cru in bottle was, 'Buy more.' Despite being tightly wound at this stage, aromas of white flowers intertwined with spice come through. Concentrated and ripe, the bright acidity carries its creamy minerality into an incredibly long finish. Beautifully balanced, it's the epitome of power and elegance. 97 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2007

Maison Louis Jadot, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($120, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):

Jadot’s Corton Charlemagne comes from its vineyard on the well-positioned southeastern facing Pougets plot on the Corton hill. I was unenthusiastic about the 2011, a wine I usually love, when I tasted it from barrel in Jadot’s cellars because I thought it lacked energy and verve. But tasting it from bottle now shows just how misleading a barrel sample can be. The 2011 vintage was inconsistent for white Burgundy because some of the wines did, indeed, lack acidity and freshness. Jadot’s Corton Charlemagne does not. Tightly wound, as all great young wines should be, it revealed its glories -- richness and spice -- only after being opened for two days. But then it conveys the classic combination of minerality, creaminess and precision. This is destined to be one of Jadot’s great Corton Charlemagne, though be prepared to wait a decade.
96 Michael Apstein Jun 3, 2014

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($217, Henriot): Bouchard's 8 acres of Chardonnay lie high on the hill of Corton facing due east in the vineyard, Le Corton. The site is rather cold and the grapes are kept disease free and dry by the prevailing north-south wind. Hence, Bouchard can leave them on the vine longer, assuring full and homogenous ripening. The location explains why Bouchard's Corton Charlemagne is always riper and richer than many others, especially early in its life. A blockbuster of a wine, Bouchard's 2006 Corton Charlemagne is opulent, delivering plenty of power. It's Grand Cru status shows in its balance and length. Remarkably engaging now, I suspect it will develop considerably more complexity with another five or so years in bottle. 94 Michael Apstein Mar 18, 2008

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($90, Louis Latour Inc.): Latour, the largest owner in the Corton-Charlemagne vineyard, also consistently makes one of the appellation’s best wines. Their nearly 25-acre plot has an almost full south exposure, which means they

always achieve good ripeness. Nonetheless, the wines are never overdone. Quite the contrary, they are tightly wound with bracing acidity, especially when young. Their 2007 is a glorious expression of the vintage and the site. With plenty of ripeness to support the acidity characteristic of the vintage, it has an incredibly long laser-like finish and an intriguing flinty smoky aspect. Befitting a young Grand Cru, it opens beautifully with air and it was even more expressive after being opened, but refrigerated, for a day. Best if held for another decade 94 Michael Apstein Dec 21, 2010

Domaine Faiveley, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($300, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.):

Under Erwan Faiveley’s leadership, Maison Faiveley has been transformed from a good négociant to an exceptional domaine that -- like so many domaines today -- also has a négociant business. This Corton-Charlemagne, from the super 2014 vintage, comes from their just over 1.5 acres in Corton Charlemagne vineyards. I’ve tasted it twice, once at a Faiveley trade tasting in New York and once in Burgundy during Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne in a line-up of thirty or so different Corton Charlemagne from the 2014 vintage. In New York, it was sumptuous, balanced, and long -- not overwrought. It would have stood out even if it weren’t the only Grand Cru white in the tasting. In Beaune, among its peers, it was even more impressive, standing out with an intensity, grace and excitement befitting a grand cru. Every time I tasted what I thought might be a better young Corton Charlemagne, I’d return to the 2014 Faiveley as my benchmark check. If I had $300 to spend on a bottle of wine, this would be my choice.
98 Michael Apstein Apr 5, 2016

Domaine Comte Senard, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($120, Wine Library): Winemaker Lorraine Senard-Pereira is just 32 years old and the first female winemaker in her family's seven generations of owning the vineyard. The aroma is all earth and minerality, but on the palate there's strong, vibrant lime fruit with plenty of that white-stone quality that makes white Burgundy so beguiling, and some earthiness on the long finish. 94 W. Blake Gray May 4, 2010

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($135, Louis Latour USA):

Louis Latour, the largest owner of the Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne, consistently makes superb examples of that wine. They show their glory with a decade of bottle age. I’ve not tasted all producers’ Corton Charlemagne so I can’t say Latour is “the best,” but for the price, there’s nobody even close. Latour’s 2014 Corton Charlemagne, certainly their best since 2010, is one of their best ever. Tightly wound at this stage, it has all the hallmarks of evolving into a magnificent wine in a decade or so. Underneath the tightly coiled spring of a wine lies enormous power and finesse that at this young stage is most apparent in the finish. Tasted in March, it was even tighter and more closed, almost impenetrable, but seven months of bottles age gives an glimpse of its trajectory of development. Although we at WineReviewOnline put numbers on our reviews, my notes say "WB", for “would buy.” I plan on cellaring it -- you should too.
97 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2016

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2004 ($100, Louis Latour): Latour's Corton-Charlemagne is one of the benchmark wines from this Grand Cru vineyard. Never as intense or butterscotchy as Le Montrachet, its allure comes from a powerful combination of rich smoky creaminess balanced by great acidity. The 2004 fits that mold perfectly. Tightly wound now, its richness is still apparent. This wine will open beautifully over the next decade. 97 Michael Apstein May 16, 2006

Morey-Blanc, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($168, Wilson Daniels):

Pierre Morey, one of Burgundy’s leading winemakers, recently stepped down from winemaker at Domaine Leflaive to focus on Morey-Blanc, a small négociant firm he runs with his daughter. (He continues to produce sumptuous wines from his own domaine, based in Meursault.) This Corton Charlemagne is a blend from the three different villages, each with a different exposure, on the hill of Corton that comprise the Corton appellation: east facing Ladoix-Serrigny, south facing Aloxe-Corton and west facing Pernand-Vergelesses. Hence, it delivers all of the nuances this very large grand cru offers. Having tasted the various components of the blend, it is striking the way the finished product is far better than the sum of its parts. The vibrancy imparted by acidity of the vintage amplifies the wine’s creaminess and minerality. Paradoxically, it’s both focused and expansive with a seemingly endless finish. Expensive, yes, but lovers of Corton Charlemagne should seek it out because it’s one the best from this grand cru. 96 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011

Bouchard Pere et Fils, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($120, Henriot): The 10-acre Bouchard parcel for Corton-Charlemagne is located near the top of the Corton hill and faces east-southeast. The vines are planted horizontally to take advantage of a drying north wind that acts as a natural pesticide. As a result, Bouchard can wait to harvest until the grapes reach perfect maturity. The location explains the brilliant balance in Bouchard's 2004 Corton-Charlemagne. Riveting acidity -- the product of the vintage -- complements the wine's richness and fullness, a result of fully mature grapes. It's long and layered, deserving of its grand cru status. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($121, Louis Latour, USA): Some wineries are said to be on a streak when they put out 3 or 4 superb vintages consecutively. Latour, in contrast, never misses with their Corton-Charlemagne. As the largest vineyard owner in that Grand Cru, theirs’ is widely available (at least for Burgundies) and very well priced (again, at least for Burgundies). Burgundy lovers will argue which they prefer, the leaner 2007, the tight mineraly 2008 or this more forward, but still well structured 2009. The 2009 has more opulence than the two prior vintages because of the overall warmer growing season. Latour still captures a lovely citrus acidity that balances the smoky minerality. Subtle peppery undertones add intrigue. While certainly more approachable than either the 2007 or 2008 at this stage, there’s no rush to drink the 2009 (although it’s pretty tasty now) as these wines have an extraordinary tract records of development with bottle age. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($187, Louis Latour Inc.): Latour's Corton-Charlemagne is the wine by which all others from

that Grand Cru vineyard are judged. Usually, his Corton-Charlemagne take years to unfold and show beautifully at a decade of age. But the 2006 shows the precociousness of the vintage and is delightful now. It's one of Latour's most forward young Corton-Charlemagne, reminiscent of the 1992. I suspect it will close up in a year or two to reemerge in a decade, so enjoy it now or be prepared to wait. Ripe and powerful, it has a touch of earthiness to complement its lushness. Its class shows in the ever changing finish. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 6, 2009

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($166, Louis Latour USA):

Maison Louis Latour, certainly one of the great Burgundy négociants, is also an important domaine, owning about 120 acres of vineyards, over half of which are Grand Cru. In fact, Latour owns more acreage in Grand Cru vineyards than anyone else. With over 25 acres, they are the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne. Showing that quantity and quality can go together, theirs is, without doubt, always one of the best, year in and year out. The 2017 delivers classic flavors of spiced pineapple supported and framed by vigorous acidity. It’s fresh and refined, with appealing floral elements. You can splurge and enjoy it this summer because it’s more forward than usual at this stage. Nonetheless, its vibrant acidity and impeccable balance suggests it will develop nicely over the next decade.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2020

Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($160): The largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, Louis Latour always makes a stellar wine from this great vineyard. Theirs is the benchmark by which others are judged. The 2006 is the third in a string of superb vintages for them. It has everything--a little smokiness, herbal notes, even a hint of mint, enticing earthiness, and of, course, ripe fruit--all buttressed by Latour's quintessential vibrant acidity. Beautifully balanced with great vivacity, this wine is tightly wound and needs another five years in the cellar to blossom. It will be fascinating to see how these three superb wines, 2004, 2005 and 2006, develop over time. 94 Michael Apstein Sep 16, 2008

Maison Henri Boillot, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($235, The Sorting Table): In addition to Domaine Henri Boillot estate, Boillot has a small négociant business in which he buys grapes from other growers. The labels of his Domaine and négociant wines are practically the same. The difference is in small print that indicates location. The Domaine is located in Volnay; the négociant house in Meursault. While there is frequently a prejudice towards Domaine wines in general, this Corton-Charlemagne is a real beauty. A muscular, ripe wine, it retains Corton-Charlemagne earthiness intrigue and citric invigorating acidity. Balanced and long, it lives up the Grand Cru status of the vineyard. 93 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Alex Gambal, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($120, Schneiders of Capitol Hill):

Gambal’s 2010 Corton Charlemagne demonstrates that you needn’t own the vineyard to make a sensational wine. Gambal gets the grapes from a grower whose plot of Corton Charlemagne lies within the village of Pernand Vergelesses. It’s a part of the hill of Corton than Dennis Fetzmann, Domaine Louis Latour’s super talented winemaker and an expert on Corton, calls “warm shade” since this part of the hill gets the late afternoon sun. Wines from this part of the hill are frequently slightly less generous and opulent, but no less grand, than ones that come from south facing (Fetzmann’s “warm sun”) parcels. Gambal’s is tightly wound at this stage but its Grand Cru stature still shows with its precision and marriage of fruit with mineral flavors. His 2004 Corton Charlemagne, which I recently had, has developed marvelously. I suspect his 2010, from a similarly grand vintage, will do the same.
94 Michael Apstein Mar 19, 2013

Domaine du Pavillon (Bichot), Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($260):

Bichot owns about three acres in the Les Languettes lieu-dit, a sunny southeast facing part of the Corton-Charlemagne vineyard. From it, they have made a glorious wine in 2018, showing nuances of spiced pineapple offset by a crispy edginess. Its stature is not in overall weight or power, rather in its layered complexity and elegance. Very tight at this stage, it starts to show is stature with air. A Grand Cru white that will need years to show itself.
94 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2020

Domaine du Clos des Poulettes, Côtes de Nuits-Villages Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay “En Beauregard” 2020 ($34):

Sourced from a plot located just north of the Corton hill, this lieu-dit Chardonnay was fermented in stainless steel tanks and saw some post-fermentation lees contact in those tanks as well. The wine offers a medium yellow color. On the nose it combines savory tones, in the form a toasted/grainy scent, and fresh floral tones along with suggestions of citrus fruits and tangerine oil. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied with abundant acidity in the global context of Chardonnay-based wines. The flavors echo the aromatic impressions, showing suggestions of lemon blossom and a rich, white chocolate-like note, culminating with a crisply mineral finish.
91 Andrew Holod Sep 12, 2023

Clos Salomon, Givry (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($38, Fine Wines): Clos Salomon wines are aromatic, richly textured and packed with fruit. This wine was barrel-aged for 18 months, 35% new, providing a nicely modulated level of oak seasoning. The average age of the vines is 40 years, giving the wine a textured concentration, with floral and berry nuances, good length, acidity and structure. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Domaine Thenard, Givry (Burgundy, France) Cellier Aux Moines 2008 ($24): This Domaine Thenard Chardonnay, from vines averaging 28 years in age, was fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged in various oak vessels. The color is a brilliant medium gold and the aromatics show honeyed nuances with floral and citrus notes. There’s good structure, plenty of fruit, nicely integrated oak and good length. In all, a very nice Givry blanc at a good price. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Clos Salomon, Givry (Burgundy, France) “La Grande Berge” 2007 ($30, Fine Wines): Chardonnay grapes from vines averaging in age eight years impart a delicate floral and citrus quality to this wine, coupled with subtle mineral notes. Keeping the new oak down to 35% allows the textural advantage without the wine being too oaky. This is what Chardonnay should be, delicate fruit with complimentary oak. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Bouchard Père & Fils, Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($225, Henriot, Inc.):

I knew that quality had greatly improved at Bouchard Père & Fils since Joseph Henriot purchased this famous Burgundy négociant in 1995, and yet I was stunned by the quality of this 2008 Chevalier-Montrachet. True, it’s a Grand Cru and 2008 is an excellent white Burgundy vintage. Nevertheless, the incredible concentration and complexity of the Chevalier-Montrachet is overwhelming. Obviously, this wine has a long future. 98 Ed McCarthy Dec 21, 2010

Lucien Muzard & Fils, Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($165, Vintage ’59 Imports): I’ve never tasted a Corton-Charlemagne made by Claude and Hervé Muzard, and don’t know whether they own or rent the parcel of vines behind this wine, but in any case, the results are superb. It shows its grand cru pedigree with excellent definition and balance, combining impressive concentration with very energetic acidity, notable but restrained oak, and nuanced minerality. Optimally aged for at least another 5 years, this is nevertheless wonderful even now, and early imbibers would do well to decant it in order to permit its many charms to unfold more fully. 95 Michael Franz Jan 29, 2013

Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($155, Louis Latour USA): Latour, the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, makes sensational wines year in and year out from that vineyard. Indeed, in my opinion, there is no better producer of Corton-Charlemagne. As expected from Grand Cru white Burgundy, Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne bottlings evolve gracefully and improve over a decade or two. Latour’s 2012 leads with gorgeous aromatics and follows with a spicy ripeness and beautifully balancing acidity. Its Grand Cru status is clearly evident in its elegance and length. Remarkably open and approachable at this stage, this is a Corton-Charlemagne I would plan on drinking in its first 8 to 10 years of life.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2014

Didier Montchovet, Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($29, Jenny & François Selections):

Since the prices for Côte d’Or Burgundy have gone through the roof, Burgundy lovers must look elsewhere. The Hautes Côtes de Beaune, the hinterland really off the beaten track, is a good starting point if you can find a producer who can tame the inherent rusticity in wines from this appellation. Didier Montchovet can, judging from this white and a red (also reviewed this week). Both mineraly and fruity, but thankfully not opulent nor filled with tropical flavors, this is a crisp and appealing Chardonnay-based wine. Bright, balanced and precise, it’s a good choice for grilled or simply prepared fish. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2017

Domaine Anne Gros, Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc (Burgundy, France) "Cuvée Marine" 2005 ($30, Stacole Company): With prices of white Burgundy going through the roof, especially for

the sought-after 2005 vintage, it is always refreshing to find a more affordable one. The Hautes Côtes de Nuits is planted mostly to Pinot Noir, but Anne Gros has a small amount of land devoted to Chardonnay. And since Gros is such a talented producer, it's no surprise that her Cuvée Marine is a winner. Not as complex as the wines from more well-known villages of the Côte d'Or, it nonetheless delivers a firm stoniness and crisp lemony acidity at a attractive price. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 15, 2008

Bertrand Ambroise, Ladoix Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grechons 2007 ($40, Robert Kacher Selections): The class of premier cru white Burgundy, even from a lesser known village in the Côte de Beaune, shines in this wine. A preview of the enjoyment it delivers is immediately apparent in the nose. A fleshy wine, with great minerality and depth, it retains finesse on the palate. Fresh citric notes keep it fresh and add balance. Befitting a premier cru from a talented producer, each sip reveals new flavors. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 22, 2009

Olivier Merlin, Macon Blanc (Burgundy, France) La Roche Vineuse 2013 ($21, Becky Wasserman Selection):

I first became aware of Domaine Merlin’s wine when I tasted -- no, drank -- his stunning Moulin-à-Vent in a Paris bistro. I’ve been a fan ever since. It turns out that the Domaine makes stunning white wine as well. This is a great example of the Domaine’s talents. Cutting and clean, with good body and concentration, it delivers far more precision and character than most wines from the Mâconnais. I just had the 2010 of this wine in a Paris restaurant. It has developed beautiful complexity, so there’s not rush. At this price, the 2013 is a steal for what it offers.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2016

Domaine Rijckaert, Macon Bussières (Burgundy, France) Au Clos Vieilles Vignes 2022 ($30):

The Mâconnais, a less prestigious part of Burgundy south of the well-heeled Côte d’Or, is the place to find superb Chardonnay-based wines. When the wine come from a single village, such as Bussières or Lugny to name just two, the village name can appear on the label instead of the more generic, Mâcon-Villages. The magic of the Mâconnais, like the rest of Burgundy, is that the wines from nearby villages made from the same grape and by the same producer taste different — what the French call terroir. Take this delectable Macon Bussières, which is a little rounder and richer than Rijckaert’s Mâcon Lugny Les Crays because the soil is less rocky with slightly more clay. The Macon Bussières adds a touch of fruitiness to its minerality without losing any freshness. Another fine choice for summer!
93 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024

Domaine du Château de Messey, Mâcon Cruzille (Mâconnais, Burgundy, France) Clos des Avoueries 2017 ($39, Seaview Imports):

The Mâconnais is becoming to “go-to” place for affordable white Burgundy. The region has three tiers, which, in ascending order of prestige, are Macon, Macon-Villages, and, at the top, Macon with the name of a village, such as Cruzille, appended to it. The area has seen an influx of top Burgundy producers and the quality of the white wines has sky rocketed, especially those coming from the 27 villages allowed to attach their name. This is an area to know for straight forward Chardonnay-based white wines, such as this one, that remain under-valued. This single-vineyard bottling from the Domaine du Château de Messey is both creamy and stoney. Paradoxically, it both subtle and penetrating with a hint of smokiness in the finish. Not an opulent New World-style of Chardonnay, this one is cutting, invigorating and refined.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2020

Domaine de la Croix Senaillet, Mâcon Davaye (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($19, Kysela): A lovely rendition of Chardonnay, this shows medium body, fresh fruit recalling apples and pears, and light wood influence in the form of just a little spice around the edges. There’s also a nice mineral tinge in the finish, but the overall impression is still one of a fresh wine with very pure fruit. 89 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2009

Domaine Cheveau, Macon Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Les Grandes Bruyères” 2016 ($22, Rosenthal):

The venerable Domaine Cheveau, which is now being run by the third generation of the Cheveau family, is especially successful in showcasing both the maximum charm and succulence that well raised Chardonnay grapes can deliver. These particular grapes were raised in the clay-limestone soils that are responsible for much of that distinctive Burgundian character many of us crave (the Grandes Bruyères vines are almost half a century old). Rich and mouth-filling, with steely precision and suggestions of chalky minerality, this is indeed an utterly delicious wine.
94 Marguerite Thomas Sep 3, 2019

Domaine Alain Normand, Mâcon La Roche Vineuse (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($18, Vintage '59 Imports): The 2008 whites from Burgundy were so compellingly balanced and delicious that it is difficult not to look down one’s nose just a bit at the 2009s--until one tastes a wine such as this. Conspicuously rich and flavorful for a Mâcon generally but in keeping with the general character of the ripe 2009 profile, this really distinguishes itself by dint of its crisp balancing acidity and a pronounced minerality in a not-so-mineral vintage. Outstanding wine and a very attractive value. 91 Michael Franz Aug 17, 2011

Domaine Chêne, Mâcon La Roche Vineuse (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($18, Michael Skurnik Wines): Mâcon La Roche Vineuse, a less well-known (obscure) appellation in the Côte Mâconnais, is one of those that could get folded into a broader appellation if France ever gets around to simplifying its appellation regulations. If all its wines are as distinctive as this one, it deserves to keep its own appellation. Like most white wines from the Cote Mâconnais, it’s Chardonnay-based. But it more refined--less clunky--than most with an underpinning minerality to complement the ripe melon-like flavors. It’s easy to recommend this excellent buy. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010

Domaine Alain Normand, Mâcon La Roche Vineuse (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($16, Vintage '59 Imports): Really good Mâcon is not only really good, but nearly indispensable. Most Chardonnay from California, Australia, Argentina and the like are too sweet and obvious to work with moderately robust foods like grilled fish, which are in turn indispensable for those of us who wish to live to ripe, old ages. Most Chardonnay from Burgundy is either too expensive to make sense with such foods on a daily basis, or too thin and acidic to measure up to the challenge. Sure, there's lots of insipid Mâcon available, but you'll have no difficulty distinguishing this wine from the run of the mill. It shows lovely apple fruit with a little peach undertone, along with nice minerality and subtle notes of spice and yeast lees that hover just below the level at which they'd announce themselves as distinct elements in the wine's aromas or flavors. 88 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2006

Sylvaine & Alain Normand, Macon La Roche-Vineuse (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($20, Vintage 59 Imports):

Light floral elements and traces of stony minerality are among this charming wine’s many attributes. Notes of peach and Bartlett pear and a smooth texture also distinguish this refreshing white Burgundy. The Normand vineyards flourish without the use of herbicides, pesticides or chemical fertilizers. Serve this wine as an aperitif or pair it with seafood, chicken or vegetable based dishes.
91 Marguerite Thomas Feb 27, 2018

Olivier Merlin, Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($22, Becky Wasserman, Le Serbet): Those looking for lip smacking crowd pleasing affordable white Burgundy can stop searching. Here it is. Lemony and creamy, it’s serious stuff delivering far more complexity than most wines labeled Macon. Summertime house wine, anyone? 89 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2012

Domaine Rijckaert, Mâcon Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Crays Vers Vaux Vieilles Vignes 2022 ($30):

Florent Rouve, owner of Domaine Rijckaert, explains that he wants to “maintain the freshness and purity” of the grapes, so eschews aging in new oak barrels and batonnâge (stirring of the lees), which tends to increase richness of the wines. Though Les Cray means chalk, Rouve notes that the soil is not particularly chalky, just rocky. With prominent stoniness, this chiseled Mâcon Lugny reflects its origins. It delivers more than we are used to from wines from that appellation and will be a fine choice for drinking this summer.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024

Jean-Claude Thevenet, Mâcon Pierreclos (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($18, Rosenthal Wine Merchant): Pierreclos is one of the 40-plus communes within the Mâcon-Villages umbrella. Since all of the wine for this bottling comes from that commune, its name can appear on the label. With about 60 acres of vines, mostly Chardonnay, Thevenet is one of a breed of small and dedicated producers in the region. His 2005 Mâcon Pierreclos is uncommonly distinctive, with a stoniness combined with finesse. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2006

Domaine Auvigue, Mâcon Solutré (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($20, Cynthia Hurley Imports): I’m a great fan of Domaine Auvigue, whose wines from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy always deliver more than their price suggests. Wines

made from grapes grown throughout the region are labeled Mâcon-Villages, whereas ones (like this one) with the potential for more class (because they come from one of 43 specific villages) are allowed to carry the village name. Although there’s no formal hierarchy to these 43 villages, Solutré is near the top of everyone’s list since half of it lies within the more prestigious appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé. Combine a great producer, a great site and an excellent vintage like 2010, and presto--you have a must-buy wine. Despite more muscle and concentration than most wines from Mâcon, it does not sacrifice the elegance and purity of Chardonnay grown in this village. The bracing acidity of the vintage balances its lushness. Don’t miss it. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

Bret Brothers, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) "Cuvée Terroir de Maçonnais" 2006 ($27, Polaner Selections): The young Bret brothers are one of the leading names in the Maconnais. Their name on the label is as good a guarantee as you get for wines from this region. Unusually concentrated from a wine with the 'simple' Macon-Villages appellation, theirs conveys a minerality more commonly found in pricey wines from the Côte d'Or. Although vinified and aged for almost a year in small oak barrels, the primary impression is still one of fruit, not wood. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2008

Cave de Lugny, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($12, Pasternak Wine Imports):

Cave de Lugny is one of France’s oldest and best cooperatives. With their roughly 250 growers and their 3,700 acres, they control the vast majority of wines from Macon. You might think that their size would preclude quality--after all they are a coop and are required to buy all the members’ harvest. But they sell at least half their wine in bulk, in large measure to prominent Burgundy négociants, and bottle the remainder themselves. And what they bottle is very good at the price. This “simple” Macon-Villages has unusual depth and roundness balanced by vibrant acidity. Although it’s pleasant enough by itself as an aperitif, it harmonizes particularly nicely with spicy shrimp or roast chicken. A great buy. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 16, 2010

Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Chardonnay is prominently displayed on the label to remind consumers that Mâcon Villages, like all white Burgundy, is made from that grape. Jadot has done an admirable job with this one because it transmits the richness of the 2012 vintage while maintaining good acidity, which gives the wine a pleasant kick. It’s a good value and easy to recommend for drinking this summer with grilled fish.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 4, 2015

Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s 2014 Mâcon Villages offers a fabulous comparison to their very good one from 2012. While still displaying an engaging creaminess, it’s slightly less rich than the 2012, but has more energy and vivacity. Those whose tastes run to more voluptuous wines -- though still not in the New World ripeness category -- will enjoy the 2012. Those consumers looking for a racier, more linear wine should search for the 2014, which is just reaching retailers’ shelves. But frankly, given the price and their overall quality, either would be a good choice for a large gathering this summer.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 4, 2015

Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Mâcon-Chaintré (Burgundy, France) "Réserve des Rochers" 2015 ($12):

Chaintré is one of the communes that comprise the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. If a wine comes exclusively from vineyards in the village, but lie outside of that famous appellation, they can carry the name of village instead of the more generic appellation of Mâcon-Villages. The 2015 vintage gave these less prestigious areas a bit of warmth and ripeness to the grapes, which makes the wines an outstanding choice, especially at the price. This one delivers a bracing minty fruity profile alongside vibrant acidity. Buy it by the case for summer.
89 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2018

Domaine Guillot-Broux, Mâcon-Chardonnay (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) “Les Combettes” 2010 ($25, Jenny & Francois Selections): Yes, there is a village named Chardonnay within the Mâcon appellation. However, I was unfamiliar with this producer (whose website says Peter and Jeannine Guillot created the first organic vineyard in Burgundy in 1954) until Martin Granne, a knowledgeable salesman at Garnet Wine and Spirits in Manhattan insisted I try a bottle. I’m glad he did. More in keeping with a Côte d’Or Burgundy than one from Mâcon, Guillot-Broux’s Les Combettes is quite rich and complex with alluring toasty nuances. Ample acidity keeps it refreshing and lively. It’s a good choice with hearty seafood. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2012

Domaine Jean Manciat, Mâcon-Charnay (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay “Franclieu" 2019 ($19, Louis/Dressner):

The best value white wines in Burgundy arguably come from the wide-ranging vineyards of the Maconnais. The broad valleys and limestone cliffs of the Mâcon provide a charming backdrop for the vines. The best villages are entitled to the Mâcon-Villages appellation and at times the name of a single village is designated. Jean Manciat’s 2019 Mâcon-Charnay Franclieu bottling is drawn from his oldest vines shows the classic style Mâcon Chardonnays. The nose offers ripe apple, pineapple and lime fruits with crisp minerality plus floral, herb, and almond nuances. The flavors are bright and refreshing with the pure, racy citrus and tropical fruits interwoven with nutty, herbal and mineral nuances. This delicious Mâcon-Charnay shows its prestigious heritage even now and will continue to improve for another few years.
91 Wayne Belding Jan 12, 2021

Domaine Jean Manciat, Mâcon-Charnay (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay “Franclieu" 2020 ($19, Louis/Dressner):

The best value white wines in Burgundy arguably come from the vineyards of the Maconnais. The broad valleys and limestone cliffs of the Mâcon provide a charming backdrop for the vines. The best villages are entitled to the Mâcon-Villages appellation and at times the name of a single village is designated – Lugny, Pierreclos, Igé and, in this case, Charnay – are often seen on labels. Jean Manciat’s 2020 Mâcon-Charnay Franclieu bottling is drawn from his oldest vines shows the refreshing style Mâcon Chardonnays. The nose offers ripe apple, pineapple and lime fruits plus floral, herb, and almond nuances. The flavors are bright and refreshing with the pure, racy citrus and tropical fruits interwoven with nutty, herbal and mineral nuances. This delicious Mâcon-Charnay shows is delicious to drink now and will continue to improve for another few years.
91 Wayne Belding Jan 4, 2022

Jean Manciat, Mâcon-Charnay (Burgundy, France) Franclieu 2005 ($18, Louis Dressner Selections): We are not used to seeing wines from Mâcon region at $18 a bottle-more often they are in the $10-12 range-but most don't convey the balanced package of minerals, cream and bright citric acidity that this one does. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006

Celine & Laurent Tripoz, Mâcon-Loché (Mâcon, Burgundy) 2007 ($17, Elite Wines Imports): More and more good white wines seem to be coming from the Mâcon in southern Burgundy these days, making the region a source of both quality and value. This Mâcon-Loché is a case in point. It has plenty of seductive fruit flavor (think autumn apples), hints (but only hints) of oak, and delightful secondary nuances that give it enticing complexity. Made with 100% Chardonnay, it tastes of much more than the grape. 90 Paul Lukacs Jan 26, 2010

Cave de Lugny, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) "Les Charmes" 2018 ($18, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits):

“Les Charmes” is indeed a charming wine, rich in texture and generous in fresh, fruity flavors. Enjoy it with seafood, poultry, macaroni and cheese, and just about anything with a creamy sauce. The Cave de Lugny is part of a large co-op was that was founded in 1927 with 116 wine growers. Today it is going stronger than ever with a roll call of more than 400 members. Located in southern Burgundy’s Maconnais region, Lugny is the largest producer of Mâcon-Villages. Ever wonder where the word “Chardonnay” came from? Eons before the name was bestowed on the grape in the late 19th century, a small settlement named Chardonnay was established on the western side of Burgundy in the mid 1400s. Today the little village boasts just under 200 inhabitants.
93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 10, 2020

Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Genièvres 2020 ($24, Louis Latour, USA):

The Mâconnais, a region of Burgundy that lies south of the famed and expensive Côte d’Or, is an unexplored treasure-trove of Chardonnay-based wines. The base of the pedigree pyramid are wines labeled Mâcon-Villages, which means they came from grapes grown anywhere throughout the region. If, however, the label reads Mâcon-xyz, or in this case, Mâcon-Lugny, the grapes came from a more delineated area, namely that specific village. Theoretically, the smaller the area from which the grapes came, the better the wine. At the top of the Mâconnais pyramid sits the more well-known appellations of St. Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé. Latour’s firm style fits the warm and ripe 2020 perfectly, as this wine shows. It has remarkably good density and weight for a wine from Mâcon, but it’s not heavy or ponderous because of riveting acidity that imparts an uplifting character. Think of it as your go-to white this summer.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023

Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) "Les Genièvres" 2020 ($18, Louis Latour, USA):

I’ve been buying and drinking this Mâcon-Lugny from Latour regularly since the 1979 vintage. It never disappoints and surprisingly, for a rather down-market appellation, actually develops beautifully with several years of bottle age. With the price of Côte d’Or white Burgundy through the roof, wines, such as this one, from the Mâconnais are the way to go for Burgundy lovers. The 2020 vintage is fabulous for whites, which makes this one even more attractive. It delivers just the right combination of green apple-like fruitiness, a touch of minerality and a citrusy finish. Stock up for summer.
89 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2022

Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores. The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity. The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. Drouhin’s 2012 Mâcon-Lugny combines good ripeness and an appealing subtle creaminess with a mouth-cleansing freshness. It’s a great introduction to white Burgundy at a very attractive price.
88 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Crays 2017 ($16, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Véronique Drouhin explained that they have always purchased grapes from a variety of growers who have holdings in Les Crays, but this is the first year they decided to put the name of that lieu-dit (vineyard) on the label. I suspect the alluring hint of creaminess comes from Drouhin’s decision to ferment and age a small portion of the wine in 500-liters barrels. Its appealing delicacy and verve is the hallmark Drouhin style. Don’t miss this well-price white Burgundy.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2018

Domaine Guffens Heynen, Mâcon-Pierreclos (Burgundy, France) “en Crazy” 2007 ($36, Ideal Wine & Spirits): Thirty-six bucks for a wine from Mâcon is a lot to ask--perhaps that’s the meaning of “en Crazy”--but this is a lot of wine. The umbrella appellation of Mâcon-Villages encompasses 40-odd villages. If a wine, such as this one, is made from grapes grown exclusively in one of the villages, the label can carry the name of the village after “Mâcon” instead of the less specific, Mâcon-Villages. Are ones from a single village always better than a generic Mâcon-Villages? No. But this one, from one of the region’s best producers, is stunning. The racy edginess of the 2007 vintage amplifies an engaging creamy stoniness. It’s exquisite balance and length is testimony to its class. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2009

Faively, Mâcon-Prissé (Burgundy, France) 2003 ($17, Wilson Daniels): Uncommonly rich, ripe and soft for a Mâcon (undoubtedly a direct result of the record-setting heat of the 2003 growing season), this still remains recognizable for its origin, and is a delicious if somewhat atypical drink. The fruit recalls baked apples, with subtle background notes of straw and nuts. Really medium-bodied, this will work nicely with a wide range of fin fish dishes or light preparations of chicken. 87 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2006

Frédéric Trouillet, Mâcon-Solutré (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($15, The Country Vintner): A beautifully-balanced and expressive example of the high quality wines being produced by some vintners in the southern Burgundy region of Mâconnais, this is a steal at $15. With bright apple-like fruit flavors undergirded by expressive minerality, it offers both intensity and finesse--a beguiling combination. Don't believe it if you hear or read that good French wines have to be expensive. Where else can you find such a distinctive and delicious Chardonnay-based wine for such an attractive price? 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 10, 2009

Verget, Mâcon-Vergisson (Burgundy, France) La Roche 2005 ($23, Ideal Wines and Stacole): Jean-Marie Guffens and his wife, Maine, founded Verget, their high-quality négociant firm, in 1990, and rapidly established themselves as among the best producers of wines from the Mâconnais. Unlike most négociants who buy newly fermented wine, Verget buys only grapes. Since pressing the grapes and vinifying the wine are key steps in winemaking, his control over them helps explain why he makes such consistently excellent wines from less prestigious appellations such as Mâcon. He also specializes in finding growers whose vineyards are ideally located, such as the La Roche vineyard in the village of Vergisson, which abuts the vineyard of the same name in Pouilly-Fuissé. The creamy minerality of this wine means it has more in common with wines from the Cote d'Or than most Mâcon wines on the market. A lovely texture, racy acidity, and a haunting finish make it a pleasure to drink now. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2007

Nicholas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) “Le Chemin Blanc” 2017 ($42, Polaner Selections):

Though the 2017 vintage in Burgundy was stylistically inconsistent for reds, the white Burgundies were generally better and more consistent. And that’s true for the white wines from the Mâconnais. Fortunately, and luckily for consumers, Maillet recently has started bottling their wines instead of selling them to the local co-op. According to Polaner’s website, Maillet works organically and biodynamically with natural yeast. The grapes come from 85-year old vines. Though priced above most wines from the Mâconnais, its quality is well above most wines from that area as well. It shows the heights to which wines from the Mâconnais can rise. Raised entirely in stainless steel, it has depth and complexity usually associated with barrel-aged wines. The lack of oak aging allows the fruit and especially, the minerality, to shine -- and it does. The citrus acidity in the finish amplifies the wines stoniness and enhances its allure.
93 Michael Apstein May 7, 2019

Domaines Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($46, Wilson Daniels):

Domaine Leflaive, arguably Burgundy’s finest white wine estate, made a foray into the Mâconnais in 2004, buying 23 acres of Chardonnay vineyards and producing an eye-popping white wine from that region. They have been extremely happy with the project, have expanded it and currently have about 75 acres there. (They’ve also purchased land in Pouilly-Fuissé, so watch for a wine from that appellation from them soon.) Their 2013 Mâcon-Verzé, though not from the greatest vintage, may just be their best one yet, combining an uncommon -- for Mâcon -- minerality with a firm backbone and impressive length. Forty-six dollars is a lot of money for a wine from Mâcon, but then again, it’s got the Leflaive name and, more importantly, the Leflaive quality behind it.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2016

Domaine Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé (Mâcon, Burgundy) 2004 ($29, Wilson Daniels): Anne-Claude Leflaive's first venture into Mâcon is an auspicious one with its debut vintage, the 2004 Mâcon-Verzé. Following the same biodynamic principles that she uses in her superb Côte de Beaune Burgundies, Leflaive has crafted a lively, concentrated wine, quite rich and fine for a Mâcon, with lemony flavors on the finish. Well worth the price. 90 Ed McCarthy Apr 10, 2007

Domaines Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2007 ($39, Wilson-Daniels): Domaine Leflaive, one of Burgundy’s top white wine producers, expanded into the Mâcon region several years ago (note the minute difference in name, Domaines, as opposed to Domaine). In keeping with the character of the 2009 white Burgundies, this one is more forward and ripe than in the past. Still, there’s sufficient acidity to keep it lively and balanced. And forward and ripe in Macon is far different from California, so by New World standards, this one shows welcome restraint. It shows that Mâcon is a place for stellar wines given the right location and winemaking team. 90 Michael Apstein May 31, 2011

Domaines LeFlaive, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($31, Wilson Daniels): It's the perennial question with wines from Burgundy: What matters more, the producer or the appellation, the vintner or the terroir? This

wine doesn't answer definitively, but it does provide insight. Made by one of the leading wineries in the Côte d'Or, it comes from the less prestigious Mâconnais, and resembles other Leflaive wines more than other ones from the region. Rich and buttery, with fine definition and good balance, it tastes something like a lesser wine from Puligny-Montrachet (Leflaive's home base) rather than a top wine from Mâcon. That's because it lacks the limestone-based vivacity that characterizes the best from the Mâconnais. Yet because it's not from the Côte d'Or, it also does not have the layered, nutty complexity of truly first-rate wines from there. So while tasty, and fairly pricey, it lacks clear identity. 88 Paul Lukacs Jul 1, 2008

Philippe Morey Auvigue, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($19, Cynthia Hurley French Wine):

If there’s a better $20 Chardonnay-based wine on the market, I’d like to know about it. Auvigue is one of the very top producers in the Côte Mâconnais, home to Macon-Villages, where the wines are—to be diplomatic—of highly variable quality. Hence, it’s especially important to reach for a top producer, such as Auvigue, when buying Macon-Villages. The 2008 vintage in Burgundy produced stellar white wines, like this one, with bright acidity to balance ripe fruit underpinned by a stony creamy quality. Great balance and intensity, it outclasses many producers’ Pouilly-Fuissé. In short, don’t miss it. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010

Maison Verget, Macon-Villages (Burgundy) “Terres de Pierres” 2010 ($17, Ideal Wines): The problem with the wines from the Macon-Villages appellation is that their quality varies enormously. The good news is that the good ones, like this one, offer tremendous value. Made entirely Chardonnay, Verget’s 2010 has a bracing stony quality along with a hint of creaminess. It’s beautifully balanced with an exceptionally long finish that is more associated with wines from a grander appellation. Here’s a chance to sample real white Burgundy without breaking the bank. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2013

Georges Duboeuf, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2010 ($16, WJ Deutsch): Georges Duboeuf is not just Beaujolais. In recent years Duboeuf added a few other Burgundy wines to his portfolio like this mineral-laced Macon-Villages Chardonnay. It has a brilliant light gold color, forward citrus peel and mineral aromatics, dry, medium fruit flavors with limestone accents, good texture, 13% alcohol and plenty of fruit through the dry finish. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Oct 25, 2011

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($14):

One of Drouhin’s talents is that, along with their top-notch prestigious Burgundies, they make high-quality wines from appellations with lesser pedigrees, such as Macon-Villages. This Chardonnay-based wine, while ripe for Drouhin’s style, still does not approach the opulence seen in many New World Chardonnay. Although this is an excellent choice as a stand-alone aperitif, its charms do not fade during a meal.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 23, 2018

Maison Louis Jadot, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($13, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Louis Jadot is as reliable and consistent producer as you will find in Burgundy. Their talents are apparent in this well-priced, bright, Chardonnay-based white Burgundy. Brimming with clean ripe fruit flavors, it has good balancing acidity that keeps it lively. Delivering more than the price suggests, it’s a marvelous buy, which makes it a good choice when you’re hosting a large gathering.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 15, 2013

Georges DuBoeuf, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($11, WJ Deutsch): After the 2003 whites, which were often heavy and lacked acidity because of the scorching heat of that year, Duboeuf's Macon-Villages is a welcome relief. This straightforward Chardonnay-based offering has a touch of creaminess balanced by vibrant acidity. Those consumers looking for a big, buttery California Chardonnay will be disappointed. Everyone else will love it, especially at the price. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006

Georges Duboeuf, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay Domaine Les Chenevieres 2011 ($12, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): One good measure of any vintner is success at the lower rungs of the wine ladder. Macon-Villages can be tart and acidic and downright unpleasant, but as with virtually everything Georges Duboeuf touches this Macon-Villages manages to impress simply by clearing a very low bar, a trick Duboeuf has mastered with Beaujolais-Villages. This wine shows crisp green apple fruit, with good acidity and a clean finish. And it's cheap. Bravo Georges! 84 Robert Whitley Aug 20, 2013

Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2021 ($19, Dreyfus Ashby):

Bright and tasty, this Burgundian white wine is both delicious and affordable. The Mâcon region, noted for its ancient clay and limestone soils, covers a sizable area in southern Burgundy. Fermented in stainless-steel vats for 6 to 8 months and bottled the following spring, the resulting wine is aromatic and fresh tasting. Like most white wines, it is at its most appealing if served nice and cold but not icy. Enjoy it as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to a wide range of food, including a variety of pasta dishes, poultry (notably turkey!), cold cuts and salads.
93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 8, 2022

Domaine Michel Barraud, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) “Les Pierres Dorées” 2016 ($19, Skurnik Wines):

I just tasted a boatload of relatively affordable white Burgundies for a consulting project, and in terms of sheer value, this was the pick of the litter from Mâcon. However, don’t just think of this as a good value, as it is also an outstanding wine regardless of price, and it out-performed most of the bottlings of Pouilly-Fuissé that I tasted… all of which were significantly more expensive. This shows a medium-bodied profile with virtually perfect balance between substance and freshness. Baked apple and white peach flavors are lifted by a zesty beam of citrus acidity, with stony mineral notes lending added interest to the finish.
92 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2018

Henri Perrusset, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($22, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Wines labeled Mâcon-Villages vary from the banal to extraordinary value. Put this one squarely in the latter category. Mâcon-Villages, a regional appellation in southern Burgundy, is large by Burgundy standards, 8,500 acres, and comprises 26 named villages lumped under the same umbrella. If all the grapes come from the same village, the wine is typically more interesting, and the producer can append the village name to Mâcon. But do not ignore ones, like this one, simple labeled Mâcon-Villages from a talented producer. Perrusset has a small domaine that he harvests by hand, uses only native yeasts in the fermentation, and ages this wine on the lees in stainless steel vats for eight to ten months to preserve fruitiness. His 2020 Mâcon-Villages has charm and depth with requisite enlivening acidity that keeps it fresh. It is a great choice for drinking this summer — and beyond.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2023

Domaine Jean Touzot, Mâcon-Villages (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($13, The Coutnry Vintner): This is a high-quality Mâcon-Villages that shows the exciting quality of the 2010 vintage in Burgundy at a very attractive price. It displays delicate notes of pear and apple with a subtle tinge of minerals that lends both interest and a sense of specific place to the wine. The finish is freshened by prominent acidity that will be remembered years from now as one of the hallmarks of the wines from 2010. 90 Michael Franz Mar 6, 2012

Domaine Talmard, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2005 ($15, ExCellars): With unusual minerality, creaminess and depth for a wine from this region, the 2005 Talmard Mâcon-Villages is the best I've had from this reliable Domaine. Don't miss it, and don't fail to buy it in quantity. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006

Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($18, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.):

If you write about wine long enough, there are certain brands with which you become very comfortable in ordering or recommending without pause, regardless of the wine and its place on the hierarchical pecking order. Drouhin is one of them for me, possibly because I’ve met the very hands-on family members many times and because I’ve had countless bottles of Drouhin wines, both its estate and négociant wines. Looking for an everyday white Burgundy for a weekday lunch, I picked the Mâcon Chardonnay at a very reasonable price and wasn’t disappointed. Not a “great" wine, but a very enjoyable one with lightly honeyed notes, though not sweet, to go along with the apples, a few nice but not dominant barrel flavors, a good, intense finish though not as crisp as the wine’s northern cousins.
89 Roger Morris Feb 28, 2023

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($13, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The Mâcon-Villages regional category of Burgundy is my go-to area for well-priced Chardonnay-based wines. Sadly, the overall quality of Mâcon-Villages is highly variable. That’s why it’s important to find ones from top-notch producers, such as Drouhin, a leading Burgundy négociant. One of the truly remarkable things about Drouhin is that their “simple,” everyday wines, such as this Mâcon-Villages have the same elegance found in their “important,” special-occasion ones. This bargain-priced Mâcon-Villages has a bit of everything -- green apple notes, bright freshness -- without having too much of anything. It has extraordinary balance and breeding for a wine at this price. Buy it by the case. You and your guests will love it.
89 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2014

Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($13, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): The 2012 vintage produced ripe white Burgundies, especially good news for “lesser” appellations, such as Mâcon-Villages, whose wines benefit from a touch more ripeness. Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, captured sufficient acidity to balance the ripe apple-like flavors. This “go-to” Chardonnay-based one is easy to recommend and a wonderful value.
89 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2014

Vins Auvigue, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) “Vendanges Manuelles” 2009 ($16, Cynthia Hurley): The less prestigious appellations for white Burgundy, such as Macon-Villages, did especially well in 2009 because the warmth of that year resulted in riper and richer Chardonnays. Auvigue, one the region’s stars, is a small grower who makes stunningly good wines from their estate and from the grapes of family members. Their Macon-Villages out performs many producers’s Pouilly Fuissé. So, combine the weather with Auvigue’s talents and the result is a fleshy and lush wine with creamy nuances and an underlying stony firmness. It’s an ideal choice for Chardonnay-lovers this summer. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011

Caves de Lugny, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, Franc) “La Côte Blanche” 2013 ($12, Pasternak Wine Imports): Caves de Lugny, the largest cooperative in Burgundy, controls about one-third of the entire production of the Mâconnais region. I, unlike many, do not subscribe to the notion that large producers are incapable of making high quality wine. Indeed, my experience with co-ops suggests quite the opposite. They have so much wine to choose from that they can stratify them into multiple bottlings under different labels, giving the consumer better value. La Côte Blanche is a mid-level bottling, nestled between--by about a dollar--their straight Mâcon-Villages and their slightly more upscale, Mâcon-Lugny “Les Charmes.” The 2013 La Côte Blanche is an easy-to-recommend bargain priced wine, reflecting a creamy fruitiness of Chardonnay rather than the alluring minerality of more notable white Burgundies. Round enough to stand by itself, it has enough verve to support a take-out rotisserie chicken.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 21, 2015

Georges DuBoeuf, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($11, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): A surprisingly sophisticated expression of Burgundian Chardonnay, this wine tastes fresh and dry, with crisp apple fruit flavors enhanced by a nutty bouquet and a steely, stony finish. It's a steal at the price. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2007

Maison Albert Bichot, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2020 ($17):

Combine Maison Albert Bichot, one of Burgundy’s top negociants, the 2020 vintage, and a white wine from an affordable part of Burgundy, and you have a winner. The Mâconnais, an a mostly white wine area of Burgundy south of the famed — and expensive — Côte d’Or was generally successful in 2020. Chardonnay here, like in the rest of Burgundy, is far and away the major white wine grape and in 2020 it ripened very nicely while maintaining good acidity. Bichot’s Macon-Villages reflects the general character of the vintage (and by the way, the -Villages modifier means that the grapes could have been grown in any of about 40 or so more prized villages). The wine conveys a lively combination of fruitiness, hints of minerality, and balancing vibrancy, all at a very attractive price.
88 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2022

Pierrette et Marc Guillemot-Michel, Mâcon-Villaves (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($33, Kysela): This wine is about as good a Mâcon as one can find, with medium body, terrific fruit (recalling ripe peaches, along with baked apple and pineapple notes), a spicy edge, and excellent acidity. In overall terms, the wine is fresh and linear, but with fruit that is rich and soft, making for a complex experience in flavor, structure and texture. Excellent! 92 Michael Franz Aug 4, 2009

René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Le Clos” 2010 ($30, Sherbrooke Cellars Selection):

Marsannay, the northern most appellation of the Côte d’Or and practically a suburb of Dijon, is one of the last outposts of the “golden slope” where the consumer can find authentic Burgundy at reasonable prices. Most Marsannay is red, but 15 percent of the vineyards are planted to Chardonnay, making it one of the rare white wines from the Côtes de Nuits. With this single vineyard bottling, René Bouvier, one of the village’s top producers, has combined the firm stoniness of the Côte de Nuits, with a hint of creaminess you’d expect from a Côte de Beaune white. With the vivacity characteristic of the vintage, it would transform a simple weekday night roast chicken into a celebration. This is a tremendous buy given the current exorbitant prices of Burgundy.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 19, 2014

Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) Chardonnay Musqué Les Favières 2018 ($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Domaine Bart, one of my favorite producers, flies under the radar. Even their stunning Bonnes Mares fails to get the accolades it deserves. They are best known for their array of reds from Marsannay, a village whose wines may lack cachet, but in the right hands deliver spectacular quality at an easy-on-the wallet price. And Bart is certainly one of the “right hands.” They also make a little Marsannay white, from, in this case, a strain of Chardonnay called Musqué, which has an attractive, subtle Muscat-like perfume. Bart’s 2018 has that floral quality that enhances its hint of fruity creaminess. It has lovely almost pineapple-like chunky quality to it. Good acidity amplifies its charms. This white wine, a rarity from the red-predominant Côte de Nuits is perfect for drinking now.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020

Domaine Charles Audoin, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Au Champ Salomon 2007 ($48, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): Chardonnay from Marsannay has plenty of bright citrus-mineral fruit. This 2007 from Audoin was aged in oak for 12 months, 20% of the barrels being new, giving the wine tempered oak seasoning while allowing the fruit to shine. Medium gold in color, the aromatics are complex with subtle toasted oak and low intensity stone fruit. It’s crisp and textured, with nicely layered flavors, citrusy acidity and good length. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2010

Domaine Bruno Clair, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($31, Vineyard Brands): Clair’s 2007 Marsannay Blanc is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Blanc, with just a hint of oak. The medium gold color leads to bright aromatics of apple and vanilla. It’s crisp, fruity and has good length and structure. This standard white wine from Bruno Clair is a good value. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Domaine Regis Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2007 ($32, Kermit Lynch): This 100% Chardonnay was aged for 10 months in oak, of which 15% are new barrels. It has a bright light color, light floral and mineral aromatics, good texture, medium fruit and crisp acidity. A pleasant Chardonnay made in the restrained oak style that matches nicely with most light foods. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Domaine Rene Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Monopole Le Clos 2007 ($30, Elite Wine): This Marsannay Blanc from the Le Clos vineyard was barrel aged for 18 months new and once-used oak. The color is a very pale gold, while the aromas show hints of ripe baking apples with some spice. The light fruit is balanced with good acidity, but the finish is short and a bit closed. Give this wine a few more months in bottle to open up. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “Les Margotons” 2020 ($38, Misa Imports, Craig Baker Selection):

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines produced a stunning array of 2020 whites. With this one, they achieved a perfect combination of creamy character associated with Côte de Beaune whites and the stone-y mineral character of Mercurey whites. Like their Montagny, this is one of the best white wines from Mercurey I’ve had. Don’t miss it.
94 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2023

Domaine Adélie (Bichot), Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “Les Champs-Michaux” 2018 ($55):

Albéric Bichot purchased this almost 20-acre estate in Mercurey in 2003, the year of his first daughter’s birth. Hence the name of the domaine. Mercurey is known for its red wines, but with more whites like this one, the reputation of its whites might well outdistance the reds. Christophe Chauvel (who is in charge of viticulture for all the domaines owned by Bichot) explains that the soil at Les Champs-Michaux is better suited for Chardonnay than Pinot Noir and believes that the clay in the soil imparts roundness to the wine. Punching far above its weight, this exceptional village Mercurey is sensational. Floral, with hints of ripe stone fruits, it has extraordinary elegance for a white Mercurey. Delicious now.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2020

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos Rochette 2007 ($36, Wilson Daniels): White wine from the village of Mercurey is a relative rarity, and Faiveley makes probably the lion’s share of it. This 2007 is a bit weaker, in my opinion, that Faiveley’s very fine 2006 but it has typical Mercurey minerality and a good concentration of fresh apple and citrus fruit character. The alcohol (13 percent) is nicely balanced by the crisp acidity and the wine has good persistence across the palate and a long, tart-fruit finish. It offers a great contrast to earthy dishes such as lentils. I prefer this wine in a narrow glass, which seems to diminish its alcohol impression. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Aug 3, 2010

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos Rochette 2007 ($30, Wilson Daniels): Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, a less prestigious part of Burgundy compared to the Côte d’Or, is known chiefly for its red wines. But it does produce notable whites. Faiveley has extensive vineyards there, both for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and makes attractive wines from them. Couple their reputation with an excellent vintage for white Burgundy and you have an easy-to-recommend wine that conveys an alluring stony element combined with a hint of creaminess supported by vibrant acidity. Lovely now, its balance and structure ensure it will evolve gracefully over the next several years, so there’s no rush. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 11, 2009

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos Rochette 2008 ($25, Frederick Wildman):

In addition to their extensive holdings in the Côte d’Or, Faiveley is one of the best producers of wines from the Côte Chalonnaise, the home to more affordable Burgundies. Although Mercurey, the most important village of the region, is known for its reds, it also produces a small amount of white wine from Chardonnay. Faiveley’s Clos Rochette, from an 11-acre stony vineyard owned exclusively by them, could very well be the best white wine from Mercurey. The 2008 has a touch of extra ripeness and subtle oak nuances that compliment the wine’s attractive steely-like firmness. Its length belies its classification as a village wine. Try it with steamed clams or other shellfish. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 29, 2011

Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos Rochette 2004 ($29, Wilson Daniels):

Mercury, a village in the portion of Burgundy known as the Côte Chalonnaise, is better known for its red wines--made from Pinot Noir--than its whites, such as this one, made from Chardonnay. Faiveley, a high-quality Burgundy firm located further north in the heart of Burgundy, owns considerable land in Mercurey and is certainly one of, if not the best, producer of wines from that town. From their 10-acre vineyard, Clos Rochette, Faiveley has fashioned a lovely white Burgundy, filled with creamy minerality, finesse, and a lingering finish. Tighter and less opulent than California Chardonnay, it is a classy wine that delivers pleasure throughout the meal, not just after the first sip. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 26, 2006

Maison Chanzy, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2014 ($35, Martin Scott):

White Burgundies from the 2014 vintage are superb. For me, the vintage ranks with 2008 and 2010, producing excellent wines across appellations. The quality at the lower prestige appellations is especially welcome news for consumers as the price of Côte d’Or wines has made them unaffordable for most. Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise well known for its red wines, is also home to distinctive whites, such as this one. Bracingly alive, it conveys just enough fruitiness to balance its stony and firm essence. This long and precise wine would be a good choice for grilled swordfish this summer.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 26, 2016

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($35, AP Wine Imports):

A sophisticated white Burgundy, with subtle slate and mineral notes undergirding its more overt fruit flavors. Full of charm and character, and a great match for seafood, this wine should age effortlessly for a good five to seven years before beginning to acquire the nutty nuance of age.
92 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2018

Génot-Boulanger, Mercurey Blanc (Burgundy, France) "Les Pacs" 2009 ($30, Frederick Wildman): Though Mercurey is far better known for its reds than its whites, Chardonnay does do well in many sites there. And the added warmth of the 2009 vintage imparted a touch more ripeness to balance what can often be an underlying hardness. Génot-Boulanger’s 2009 Mercurey combines engaging fleshiness with a firm, not hard, minerality. This is authentic white Burgundy that’s perfect for current consumption. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 3, 2012

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Blanc (Burgundy, France) Clos Rochettes 2011 ($32, Frederick Wildman): Although primarily known for its red wines, Mercurey also produces some fine Chardonnay-based whites, especially when Faiveley is involved. What’s especially noteworthy about all of Faiveley’s wines is how they reflect where the grapes’s origins. Not overworked, this Clos Rochettes, from their holdings, is classic Côte Chalonnaise white, stony and pure.
89 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2013

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Monopole (Burgundy) “Clos Rochette” 2010 ($30): The team at Faiveley speaks of the wine from this 4.4 hectare site as a “little Meursault,” and that seems entirely apt in this vintage. Notes of baked apples and fresh peaches are ripe but still quite bright, and subtly smoky, toasty wood accents are very nicely tuned to the weight and flavor impact of the fruit.
91 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Michel Picard, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Paradis 2006 ($34, Brown Forman): The négociant firm of Michel Picard owns the Domaine Voarick, which is why both the Picard and Domaine Voarick names are on the label of this wine. This green-tinged Chardonnay-based wine reflects its Côte Chalonnaise origins with a chunky earthiness. The lush, melon-like nuances add an extra dimension to this white wine from Mercurey. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008

Domaine Pierre Morey, Meursault (Burgundy, France) "Les Tessons" 2008 ($75, Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet):

Pierre Morey’s wines are an example of how the French appellation hierarchy breaks down. Although priced like a premier cru, Les Tessons is not one. It’s “just” a village wine. Nonetheless, in Morey’s hands it delivers more finesse and complexity than many producers’ premier crus. Part of the reason no doubt is old vines and part no doubt is Morey’s near fanatical obsession with quality. The first whiff and sip of this wine screams greatness. Long, smoky and rich, its layers of flavors caress the palate. You never tire of it because it’s classy and has uplifting acidity. 95 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2012

Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2021 ($106, Martine’s Wines):

Domaine Buisson-Charles, a well-regarded Meursault-based family domaine, blends grapes from six parcels to make this stellar village wine. Some are hillside parcels that provide grapes with higher acidity, and some are lower down that imbue the grapes, and subsequent wine, with more richness. The first whiff predicts you’re in for a treat. And the palate is not disappointed! The blend of this impeccably balanced and vibrant village Meursault works. It is generous, but not too, with vibrancy and incredible length. It shows that old vines, in the right hands, of course, make an enormous difference. This is an extraordinary wine. Don’t be fooled by its village appellation.
94 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2024

Domaine Leflaive, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($110, Wilson Daniels):

This is sourced from vines grown in the upper portion of Meursault, tucked just under the forest, and consequently brighter and less broad and creamy than the stereotype of wines from the appellation. It actually tastes more like Puligny-Montrachet than Meursault, but there’s certainly nothing wrong with that. Although there’s certainly some nutty, spicy complexities already showing, this is extremely taut and linear in profile, with very intense primary fruit that seems destined for at least a decade of improvement.
94 Michael Franz Aug 12, 2014

Domaine Pierre Morey, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($94, Wilson Daniels): Domaine Pierre Morey is as good a case as any for another look at the classification of vineyards in Burgundy. Its "village" Meursault is clearly a classy wine of premier cru quality, but without the official recognition. Morey sources this wine from three family owned vineyards -- Les Chaumes, Les Forges and Les Pellans -- that are farmed biodynamically. Pierre, the brilliant winemaker who also makes the wines at Domaine Leflaive, is devoted to natural winemaking and utilizes "native" yeasts to initiate fermentation and achieve Chardonnay that is beautifully structured, showing flinty minerality on the nose, layers of tangerine and melon, with hints of pear and spice through a decadently long finish. You could easly cellar this wine for another decade or more. 94 Robert Whitley Sep 9, 2008

Domaine Pierre Morey, Meursault (Burgundy, France) “Les Tessons” 2007 ($114, Wilson Daniels): Although Domaine Pierre Morey was founded in only 1971, the family has owned vines in Meursault since the late 18th century. Still based in that village, Domaine Pierre Morey remains one of the finest sources for Meursault. Though Les Tessons is not a premier cru vineyard, in Pierre Morey’s hands, the wine clearly deserves that moniker. It has a near magical combination of richness and subtle toastiness that enhances without overwhelming. For all its concentration, it dances on the palate and lingers seemingly forever. Simply stunning. 94 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011

Domaine Jacques Prieur, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Clos de Mazeray Blanc 2007 ($90, Wildman): Although classified as a village wine--not a premier cru--Prieur's Clos de Mazeray, which they own exclusively, consistently tastes like most producers' premier crus. The 2007 is no exception. Hints of orange blossom in the nose enhance its tightly wound earthy minerality. There's enough richness lurking beneath its compressed shell to balance the vibrant acidity. It's a wonderful white Burgundy with clean, laser-focused flavors extending into the exceptional finish. Give it a few years to unwind. You will not be disappointed. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 21, 2009

Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils, Meursault (Burgundy, France) “Les Grands Charrons” 2018 ($68, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

It’s hard to go wrong with the wines from Domaine Michel Bouzereau, a leading name in Meursault. Here are my notes for this wine from a visit in November 2019: “Good as most people’s 1er cru. Gorgeous acidity and presence. Clean and precise. Long and minerals. Precise, cutting. Impeccable balance.” Now that it’s bottled and arrived on our shores, it has closed up. Indeed, its grandeur and appeal became apparent only after it sat opened for a day in the fridge. Then, the alluring combination of subtle creaminess, spice, and riveting acidity was center stage. My advice is to buy as much as you can afford and cellar it for a few years.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2021

Génot-Boulanger, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cromin 2009 ($55, Frederick Wildman): The 2009 vintage for white Burgundy was tricky because the warm growing season resulted in wines with lower acidity and less vibrancy. That said Génot-Boulanger’s 2009 whites were excellent with plenty of verve. This one, a village wine from the lieu-dit (place name) Clos du Cromin, has a subtle creamy richness of Meursault buttressed by mouth-watering acidity. Long and focused, it’s lovely to drink now. 93 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2012

Pierre Morey, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Les Tessons 2005 ($78, Wilson Daniels): It is a small, close community in this part of the Cote d'Or. Pierre Morey, who owns a tiny domaine, also is the cellar master at Domaine Leflaive. Not coincidentally, both domaines are farmed biodynamically. Not coincidentally, the wines from each property are superb. The price here seems a bit steep for a village Meursault, until you taste the wine, which very much behaves like a premier cru. It delivers a flinty, smoky mineral note on the nose, which is typical of the better wines from this village, while on the palate it shows richness and precisce pear and apple flavors, perfectly balanced acid and fruit, and a long, lingering, elegant finish. 93 Robert Whitley Dec 4, 2007

Xavier Monnot, Meursault (Burgundy, France) "Les Chevalières" 2014 ($50, Treasury Chateau & Estates Wines):

Seeing "Les Chevalières" on the label of this wine could make you think that it is a Premier Cru offering, and tasting it could reinforce that mis-impression, but the (relatively) modest price indicates that it is a Village wine. But what a Village wine! It shows the ripeness and substance that one expects from Meursault, but also the energy of the fabulous 2014 vintage, as well as lovely oak accents and lots of interesting minerality. I grant that almost no wine can seem like a "steal" at $50, but this is a very strong candidate for that designation.
93 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2017

Alex Gambal, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cromin 2004 ($50, Various importers): Staggeringly good for a village wine -- albeit from a well-regarded lieux-dit -- Gambal puts many producers' premier crus to shame with this Meursault. Ripe and lush -- befitting a Meursault -- Gambal's is distinctive because of its finesse. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine Bernard Millot, Meursault (Burgundy, France) "Cuvée Alexie" 2016 ($70, Lexington Selections):

In the heart of the picturesque village of Meursault lies Domaine Bernard Millot, now managed by Bernard and his son Emilien, making him the fourth generation to do so. Their Alexie White Burgundy has focused aromas of Anjou pear, crushed white stone, and yellow citrus wafting from the glass. The medium-plus-bodied palate delivers white peach, yellow apple, wheat toast, and a kiss of almond, followed by a scintillating citrus/mineral finish.
92 Miranda Franco Nov 8, 2022

J. M. Boillot, Meursault (Burgundy, France) "Charrons" 2005 ($50, Vineyard Brands):

Boillot makes stylish white Burgundies and this one fits that mold nicely. This village wine delivers as much as many producers' wines from premier cru vineyards. The alluring nose immediately grabs your attention and predicts a fine wine. Tightly wound and focused, richness emerges especially in the long finish. A leaner style of Meursault now, it should open nicely over the next few years. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007

Jacques Prieur, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Clos de Mazeray 2004 ($85, Wildman): Domaine Jacques Prieur, under the current director, Martin Prieur, and winemaker, Nadine Gublin, has been making fabulous Burgundies. Clos de Mazeray is a monopole, that is, owned entirely by Prieur, a rarity in Burgundy where most vineyards are split among multiple owners. This tightly wound village wine has riveting minerality coated with a creamy texture. It has more complexity than many producers' premier cru wines. Very young now, I would give it several years in the cellar to allow its flavors to evolve. But a warning, Prieur also makes a red Meursault Clos de Mazeray, so check the bottle carefully lest you wind up drinking red wine with fish as I did several years ago. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Joseph Drouhin, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($45, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

This refined Meursault was aged for nine months in barrel, with only 30% new oak. The color is brilliant light-medium gold, and the aromatics are subtle with mineral, citrus and vanilla notes. Refined flavors show lemony features, with good texture, 13% alcohol, finishing with good length. This is Chardonnay that tastes like Chardonnay, with oak for textural structure more than for flavoring. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 27, 2011

Pierre Morey, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($86, Wilson Daniels): When village wines retail for over $80, you have to wonder. But Pierre Morey's village wines are better than many Premier Crus from other producers. Lush and forward, it is hard to resist at this stage. Vibrant acidity balances its ripeness. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2007

Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard, Meursault (Burgundy, France) “En la Barre” 2005 ($94, Kermit Lynch): This Domaine, one of the leaders in Meursault, typically produces tightly wound wines that take several years to reveal their complexity. Not this wine. Its opulence is immediately apparent and the creamy ripe flavors are reminiscent of the premier cru, Meursault-Charmes. Jobard's talent is his ability to make his village wines, such as this one, taste and have the character of premier cru. Alas, you must pay for that talent. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008

Domaine Pierre Morey, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($75, Wilson Daniels): One whiff tells you that this wine from Morey’s domaine (as opposed to his négociant business) is stunning, especially for a village wine. With impeccable balance and grace, this Meursault has hints of honey that merge seamlessly with its citrus finish. An expensive village wine, to be sure, it is better than many producers’ premier crus. 91 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011

Joseph Drouhin, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($60, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Here is another shining example of the grandeur of the 2014 vintage for white Burgundy. Drouhin, one of the region’s finest producers, has fashioned a village wine that could pass for premier cru. It has a touch of the spice and complexity I associate with Meursault Genevrières. Long and precise, it’s a wonderful village wine that delivers more than its pedigree suggests.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2016

Maison Louis Jadot, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($51, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): In a word -- gorgeous. Though the first whiff hints at grandeur, it takes time in the glass for the charm of this Meursault to reveal itself. But it does -- creamy with a captivating fullness. Indeed, it is explosive without being heavy. It caresses the palate. A firm structure and lively acidity keeps you coming back, happily, for another glass. Jadot has consistently made an excellent village Meursault so it’s no surprise that their 2012 rivals other producers’ premier crus. It’s another example of the importance of the producer in selecting wine, especially Burgundy.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 4, 2015

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($33, Louis Latour, USA):

Latour consistently makes great white Burgundies and, to their credit, prices them reasonably. Village wines, as opposed to Premier or Grand Cru wines, are often overlooked. Don’t make that mistake with Latour’s 2008 Meursault. From its clearly identifiable Meursault character and depth, I wouldn’t be surprised if there was some declassified premier cru in this bottling. It conveys richness and a subtle smokiness balanced by vibrancy and energy. It’s a delight to drink now. I’ve not seen a Meursault this good at this price in a long time. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012

Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Les Clous 2004 ($40, Henriot): The 2004 vintage in Burgundy for the whites is excellent and certainly a welcome relief from the flabby 2003s. Bouchard's Meursault Les Clous, while not a premier cru, has a great combination of stony minerality and earthiness supported by an edgy acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2006

Boyer-Martenot, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Les Narvaux 2008 ($47, Skurnik): The village of Meursault has a great number of non-premier cru named plots (lieux-dits), such as this one, Les Narvaux. In the hands of talented producers, such as Boyer-Martenot, wines from these sites offer good value because they are often more distinctive than a wine simply labeled Meursault, despite the identical official appellation. In this stylish Meursault, vibrant citrus notes offset the ripe, almost honeyed-like nuances. The restrained use of oak allows its bright fresh fruit character to shine. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2010

Domaine Matrot, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($38, Vineyard Brands): With this wine, Matrot has succeeded where many other producers have failed. Far too many wines with a simple village Meursault appellation are disappointing because they are thin and fail to transmit the combination of earthiness and fruitiness for which that village is known. Matrot's is not. Its intensity is balanced by vibrant acidity. And you don't even need a corkscrew. A few top Burgundy domaines are now bottling some of their wines, such as this one, under screw caps. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2007

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($37, Louis Latour USA): Yes, Burgundy has a rigid hierarchical appellation system of rating wines from, in ascending order, village to premier to grand cru that should make selection easy. But frankly, it’s best to select Burgundy by producer. And Maison Louis Latour is one of the best, as shown by this “simple” village Meursault. It’s lacy and slightly nutty, but not ponderous. You know you are drinking Meursault. Bright citrus notes keep it lively. As with all of Latour’s wines, it will improve with time, so you could cellar it, but it’s on point now. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault (Cote de Beaune, France) 2004 ($30, Louis Latour): A welcome change from the atypical white Burgundies of 2003, white Burgundies from 2004 are stacking up to be excellent. Part of my enthusiasm for them could be my dislike of the mostly flabby 2003 whites, but it's not just that. Latour's 2004 whites across the board are stylish and focused and would stand out even following a better year, like 2002. This very good village wine delivers a creamy combination of peach- and pear-like flavors. As usual, it's more overt than Latour's Puligny-Montrachet. 90 Michael Apstein May 16, 2006

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($30, Louis Latour Inc.): This village wine is dramatic evidence that you don’t need to drink a premier--or grand--cru to savor the wonder of white Burgundy. Vibrant acidity balances the wine’s ripeness. An engaging creaminess and ever so subtle herbal notes complete the picture. It has surprising length for a village wine. And given the price of white Burgundy or good California Chardonnay, this Meursault is an excellent value. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2010

Olivier Leflaive, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Premier Cru Les Perrieres 1997 ($68, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The smoky nose of this wine is intense as can be, and complemented nicely by classic Meursault hazelnut notes. On the palate, the wine is dry and full-bodied with moderately intense, rich flavors of ripe apples, smoky oak and hazelnuts. Fairly high acidity nicely balances the wine's richness and suggests good drinking over the next several years. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Mar 7, 2006

Olivier Leflaive, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($55, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): A very successful bottling of straight village-level Meursault, Olivier Leflaive’s 2010 delivers the richness and depth that one hopes for from this commune while also offering the freshness and minerality that makes a buyer turn to Burgundy in the first place. A subtly nutty scent gets the wine off to a great start, and flavors of baked apple and stone fruit follow through on the palate. Substantial but never heavy, this shows the freshening acidity that is the hallmark of the great 2010 vintage.
90 Michael Franz May 14, 2013

Domaine du Pavillon (Bichot), Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($100):

This village Meursault, a blend of five plots from the northern end of the appellation, is vinified at the Domaine du Pavillon, just down the road in Pommard. One taste shows the dramatic textural difference between this white from the Côte d’Or and the Les Champs-Michaux from the Côte Chalonnaise. Creamy, as opposed to stone-y, this Meursault has good weight on the palate. Fine acidity keeps it lively.
89 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2020

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($62, Henriot): Bouchard made a particularly distinctive line of wines in 2006 from their extensive holdings throughout Meursault. This village wine has an engaging creamy forwardness and hint of earthiness buttressed by excellent acidity and good length. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Les Clous 2006 ($62, Henriot): This village wine hails from the Les Clous vineyard, not a premier cru, but one that is capable of delivering distinctive wine nonetheless. Slightly more refined than Bouchard's village Meursault, the Les Clous has lovely nuances of a peachy creaminess. Lively acidity in the finish keeps it fresh. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Domaine Jobard-Morey, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Charmes 2006 ($90, VOS Selections): The Charmes vineyard in Meursault typically produces ripe wines. Reflective of its origins, this wine has charming, upfront, lush fruit harmonized with earthy and lemony notes. Bristling clean acidity in the finish supports the overt lushness to make a balanced wine. Sadly, the demand for white Burgundy and the weakness of the dollar make it very expensive. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 1, 2008

Vincent Girardin, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Les Narvaux 2005 ($50, Vineyard Brands): Rich and satisfying, this shows its origins from Merusault without seeming obvious or one-dimensional. Fresh acidity is partly to be thanked for that, along with really judicious use of wood, which frames and accents the ripe fruit without depriving it of its soft succulence. 88 Michael Franz Nov 20, 2007

Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Genevrières 2014 ($96): Bouchard Père et Fils, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a grower, owning over 300-acres of vineyards in the Côte d’Or, including 30-acres of Grand Cru and about 180-acres of Premier Cru. They consistently excel in their Meursault. This magnificent Meursault Genevrières is a blend of two plots, totaling over 6-acres, that they own. One plot is lower down on brown soil, which imparts richness, according to their winemaker, Frédéric Weber, while the other is higher on white limestone. This is a fabulous Genevrières, delivering richness, spice and vivacity. From my experience with Bouchard’s wines, it will develop nicely for a decade, though it’s hard to resist now.
94 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017

Pierre Morey, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Perrières 2005 ($140, Wilson Daniels): This big--somewhat forward--wine shows the power and class of a great 1er Cru vineyard. Unusually engaging at this stage (wines from Meursault Perrières often take years to unwind) it conveys a luxurious creaminess along with its quintessential stoniness. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2007

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Genevrieres 2006 ($129, Henriot): Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, believes that the Genevrieres vineyard is the quintessential expression of Meursault. Bouchard certainly makes a fine wine from that vineyard year in and year out. The 2006 is no exception. It has a lush creaminess--like ice cream--seasoned with just the barest hint of peppery spice. Its luxurious texture persists into the finish. This sophisticated wine was hard to spit at a tasting. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Perrières 2009 ($130, Vintage ’59 Imports): Gaunoux’s whites are at least as impressive as his excellent reds, and this

wine will demonstrate that once and for all to any first-time taster. White wines from the Côte de Beaune were generally neither as fresh nor as mineral in 2009 as in the adjacent vintages of 2008 and 2010, but this is impeccably fresh and intensely mineral. Fruit notes recalling apple skin and fresh lemon are pure and focused, thanks in large part to restrained influence from oak and yeast lees. This is one of the two or three best wines from Meursault that I’ve tasted from 2009. 93 Michael Franz Jan 29, 2013

Olivier Leflaive, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Charmes 2009 ($100, Frederick Wildman): Although I remain more impressed with the white Burgundies from the

2008 and 2008 vintages, I confess that I’ve been compelled to revise my initial take on the 2009s, as excellent examples continue to appear. This is definitely one of them, as the wine shows an impressive and deeply satisfying breadth and depth--while managing not to seem chunky or obvious but rather balanced and harmonious. Fruit notes of baked apple and nectarine are immensely appealing, and there a subtle nutty character that lends great interest to the oak-derived accents of spices and toast. 93 Michael Franz May 1, 2012

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Charmes 2006 ($116, Henriot): Despite it proximity to the Genevrieres vineyard--it is adjacent--wines from Meursault Charmes always have a different character. Typically, these wines are earthier, richer and slightly riper, but perhaps less elegant. Bouchard's 2006 fits that profile nicely and will appeal to those who prefer a more intense initial attack at the expense of refinement. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 18, 2008

Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Genevrières 2006 ($75, Chemin des Vins): This is a perfect example of the glorious and hard-to-resist forward ripe white Burgundies from the 2006 vintage. This one is especially attractive because the classic spiced ginger character of Genevrières comes through as a wonderful counterpoint. It’s lovely now. You can hope the recession will bring the price down, but don’t count on it because even though Latour-Giraud is the largest owner of Genevrières, the production is small and demand large. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010

Louis Latour, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Charmes 2006 ($75, Louis Latour Inc.): Typical of wine from one of Meursault's best 1er cru vineyards, Latour's Meursault Charmes has a creaminess atop ripeness and a hint of earthiness. This muscular wine retains balance because of the vibrant acidity characteristic of Latour's style. Smoky nuances add to its appeal. This terrific white Burgundy is more open at this stage than many of Latour's whites, and ideal for current consumption. But, as with all their wines, it will age and evolve beautifully. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 16, 2008

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Château de Blagny 2009 ($54, Louis Latour, USA): This lovely wine reinforces the French system of stratification of vineyard

sites. A step-up from Latour’s very fine straight 2009 village Meursault, this premier cru delivers more finesse with an engaging waxy, slightly honeyed component. It conveys the richness of the 2009 vintage for whites without sacrificing the verve that’s characteristic of Latour’s white wines. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011

Xavier Monnot, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Charmes 2012 ($120, Robert Katcher Selections):

Combine the richness inherent to the wines from Les Charmes vineyard and the warm 2012 growing season and you get, not surprisingly, an opulent wine. The surprise is its vivacity and brightness, which Monnot attributes to the 50+ year-old vines. It shows that old vines planted in a superior plot always produce balanced wines even in difficult times. It’s a winning combination -- a creamy opulence balanced and enhanced by a zesty citrus buzz -- and a delight to drink now with grilled swordfish.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2015

Domaine Michelot, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Genevrières 2005 ($75): A generous, rich wine in keeping with Meursault's reputation, this is nevertheless quite complex as well, with lovely accent notes of minerals, vanilla and toast. Already delicious, this will only get better for a period lasting at least five years. 91 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Louis Latour, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Blagny 2006 ($55, Louis Latour, Inc.): White Burgundies from 2006 have been overlooked by variable quality of the reds--and most people judge a vintage by the red wines--from that vintage and the stature of the 2005 vintage. But 2006 produced excellent white wines in that region. Latour, who makes fabulous white Burgundies, has produced a stunning array in 2006, including this premier cru from Meursault. Creaminess and subtle minerality mixes nicely with smoky elements in this wonderfully balanced Chardonnay-based wine. Tightly wound at this stage, it expands in the glass and in the finish. 91 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2008

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Poruzots 2007 ($90, Skurnik): As if Burgundy were not confusing enough, with Pierre-Yves we have the fusion of two prolific Burgundian family names, Colin and Morey. It’s hard to keep them straight. What’s not hard is seeing the quality of this wine. Very long and with laser-like focus, it shows the class of a premier cru. Spicy notes augment an ample fleshiness and underneath it all is a firm mineral core. Citrus-infused acidity pulls it all together. Quite tight now, it should evolve and open gracefully over the next several years. 91 Michael Apstein May 11, 2010

Shaps & Roucher-Sarrazin, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Charmes 2005 ($90, The Country Vintner): A very compelling white Burgundy from a very strong vintage, this wine offers the exhilarating echoes of hay, wood smoke, roasted nuts, and stony minerality that wines made with Chardonnay elsewhere never seem to be able to express. Still quite tight, its acidity is almost piercing. That suggests is has a long life ahead.
90 Paul Lukacs Jul 22, 2008

Francois Mikulski, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Poruzots 2004 ($80, Elite Wines): Extremely tight and linear, with brisk, almost bracing acidity, this old-fashioned white Burgundy needs to be cellared for five or more years in order to be enjoyed fully. There's nothing tropical or lush about it, and it never even nods towards today's seemingly omnipresent international style. Instead, the wine is steely and mineral-laden, with crisp autumn (especially apple) fruit flavors in the forefront. I would wager that it eventually will merit an outstanding, 90+ score; but for right now, it's a wine to buy only if you have patience. 89 Paul Lukacs Nov 14, 2006

Olivier Leflaive, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Charmes 2007 ($98, Wildman): Olivier Leflaive, cousin of Anne-Claude who runs Domaine Leflaive, made an excellent array of whites in 2007, each reflecting its origins. This Meursault Charmes has the ripe--almost honeyed--richness expected from this locale buttressed by the substantial acidity that is the hallmark of the 2007 whites. The lemony zing carries the richness through the finish and makes you come back for another sip. It's a 2007 white that you can savor now. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Louis Latour, Meursault Blagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Chateau de Blagny 2005 ($55, Louis Latour USA): The real class of this premier cru comes from a rich creaminess laced with intriguing minerality. Firm acidity carries the flavors into the substantial finish. More open and forward at this stage than a typical wine from Latour, this Meursault Blagny would be a fine foil for lobster or other rich seafood now. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2008

Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Charmes 2017 ($113, Vineyard Brands):

A completely convincing Meursault from the outstanding Charmes cru, this is already delicious but destined to improve for at least a decade, probably longer. The bouquet is currently expressive of high-class oak above all, with toasty, spicy and nutty nuanced underlain by nascent fruit scents. The fruit moves forward in the mix on the palate, showing flavors reminiscent of apples and stone fruits with a notable edge of citrus. Substantial as Meursault should be, but definitely nimble and fresh, this is beautifully balanced, with fruit, oak, acidity and mineral notes all working together harmoniously. Gorgeous wine.
95 Michael Franz Dec 10, 2019

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Château de Blagny 2010 ($65, Louis Latour USA):

The 2010 vintage produced superb white Burgundies. This is one of them. Creamy minerality comes together with riveting acidity in this super Meursault. It has the richness of Meursault and the edginess of Puligny. Hard to resist now, it will become even more complex and refined with bottle age. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

Alex Gambal, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Genevrières 2010 ($80, Schneiders of Capital Hill): Gambal, a small grower/négociant based in Beaune, is finally getting the accolades his wines deserve. His 2010s, both whites and reds, are particularly attractive and definitely worth the search. And there will need to be a search because his average annual total production is small, only about 50,000 bottles. This Meursault Genevrières (870 bottles produced), tightly wound at this stage, is a super wine that will benefit from a few years to unwind. It conveys hints of spice, characteristic of Genevrières, buttressed by minerality and bracing acidity. Beautifully balanced, it should open very nicely over the next couple of years and then continue to develop for up to a decade. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Château de Blagny 2010 ($100, Louis Latour Imports):

From a relatively cool and dry vintage, this aristocratic white wine is still surprisingly lively and long, expressive and elegant. With its delicate suggestions of mint and citrus plus a touch of salinity, this Premier Cru Chardonnay certainly has a few years of enjoyment left to offer.
93 Marguerite Thomas Apr 13, 2021

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Château de Blagny 2012 ($70, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top-notch producers, hit a bull’s eye with their 2012s. The vintage produced concentrated wines and capturing acidity, especially for the whites, was a challenge. Latour succeeded brilliantly. This Meursault has a beautiful, yet not overripe, density for a premier cru in 2012. Its concentration is buttressed by plenty of racy minerality. With an exceptional finish, this refined wine, though a joy to drink now, should evolve to give great enjoyment over a decade.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2014

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Gouttes d’Or 2007 ($50, Louis Latour Inc.): Latour, one of Burgundy’s strongest houses, made excellent white wines--especially from Meursault--in 2007. This Gouttes d’Or is quite ripe, creamy and very long, with a slight engaging spiciness to it. The exceptional finish shows why it deserves its premier cru status. Impeccably balanced, it will evolve and improve over a decade. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2010

Louis Latour, Meursault-Blagny (Burgundy, France) 2002 ($45, Louis Latour Inc): Although I love the white Burgundies from 2004, they are often more expensive than comparable wines from the outstanding 2002 vintage because of the dollar's progressive weakness. So it's worth looking for wines still available from 2002. Latour's white Burgundies, which are consistently stunning, always open nicely and reveal greater richness after a few years in the bottle. This premier cru has taken on extra flesh and creaminess to balance its earthy minerality and bracing acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007

Benjamin Leroux, Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Piece Sous le Bois 2019 ($125, Becky Wasserman Selection):

In a word, wow! Airy and mineraly, this Meursault has an underlying richness. All its glory is amplified by leaving the bottle re-corked in the fridge overnight. It’s like a cross between Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, which given the location of the vineyard, high on the slope (literally, the area under the forest) bordering Puligny, makes sense. Belying the heat of the vintage, this Meursault has great acidity and enormous energy. If drinking now, I would open it several hours before serving and let it sit in the glass after your pour it. At this stage, it needs an opportunity to open and reveal itself. Frankly, if you have the resources, leave it in the cellar for five years.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 18, 2022

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Chateau de Blagny 2006 ($63, Louis Latour Inc.):

Compared side-by-side with Latour's white Beaune (also reviewed this week) you can easily appreciate the rationale of the AOC classification of Burgundy vineyards. There's a big step up in elegance and complexity--and price--with this premier cru. It has a rich fatness characteristic of Meursault, good acidity, and plenty of length. Quite forward, this is one I'd drink now. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 6, 2009

Domain Latour Guiraud, Meursault-Genevrières (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($75, Chemin des Vins/Patrick Lesec Selections): Nuances of peach and spice peek out of this tightly wound premier cru. At this stage, it is not more powerful than a village wine, but the class of its premier cru classification shows in the extraordinary finish that grabs and holds your attention. This wine needs several years to unfold, but will be glorious, if you have the patience. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007

Domaine Faiveley, Montagny (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($29, Frederick Wildman): Maison Joseph Faiveley, one of Burgundy’s venerable négociants, has practically reinvented itself over the past few years and it shows in the wines. This Montagny comes exclusively from their vineyards--hence the Domaine rather than the Maison Faiveley labeling--and proves that Chardonnay does well in Montagny, an off the beaten track village in the Côte Chalonnaise south of the famous Côte d’Or. The stoniness of the Côte Chalonnaise comes through but Faiveley has managed to combine it with a subtle herbal--almost minty--element and a laser-like precision. It has an uncommon elegance for wines from this appellation. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2011

Faiveley, Montagny (Burgundy, France) Domaine de la Croix Lacquelet 2004 ($21, Wilson Daniels):

Perhaps you have heard rumblings about the excellence of Burgundy's 2004 white wine vintage but have been wary of a run-up in prices? Then look south, or at least south of the pricey Cote d'Or. Montagny is a village in the Cote Chalonnaise and this wine was previously known as Montagy 'Les Joncs.' This area specializes in Chardonnay, but much of it is simple and pleasing but hardly worth seeking out. This domain could change your opinion of Chalonnaisse wines, however, offering fresh pear and apple aromas, racy acidity, and elegance and finesse on the palate, which is unusually long and lingering for a wine from this part of Burgundy. 90 Robert Whitley Jan 9, 2007

Domaine Faiveley, Montagny (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($22, Frederick Wildman): The 2009 vintage in Burgundy was warm and produced ripe wines. The extra warmth especially helped lesser appellations, such as Montagny in the Côte Chalonnaise, where the wines typically have an attractive lean stoniness. Faiveley’s 2009 Montagny marries that stoniness with just a little extra ripeness. Still, don’t expect a plump California Chardonnay, but rather a refreshing citrus-tinged expression of that grape. It’s a superb foil for grilled fish.
89 Michael Apstein Mar 12, 2013

Domaine Faiveley, Montagny (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($28, Wilson Daniels): Montagny is a little-known (here in the U.S.) village in Burgundy's Cote Chalonnaise. Faiveley's '06 Montagny is brimming with yellow citrus fruit, pear and a stony minerality more closely associated with the wines of Chablis. It is well-balanced, with modest alcohol of 12.8 percent, and elegant without sacrificing intensity. If you're of a mind to stock a house Chardonnay that's a cut above, the price is very attractive. 89 Robert Whitley Dec 2, 2008

Faiveley, Montagny (Burgundy, France) Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet 2005 ($25, Wilson Daniels): Montagny, like other villages in the Côte Chalonnaise, made particularly attractive white wines in 2005. Since the area has less prestige than its neighbors to the north in the Côte d'Or, the wines are far less expensive. A smoky, flinty note is a lovely complement to the underlying taunt minerality of this wine. This bright, brisk and balanced bottling is an alternative for those who find California Chardonnay too fruity and ripe. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 29, 2008

Domaine Faiveley, Montagny (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($25, Wilson Daniels): As prices for white Burgundy continue to rise--despite the economic crisis--wise consumers will look outside of the famed Cote d'Or to lesser known villages, such as Montagny, located in the Cote Chalonnaise just south of Beaune. As with the rest of Burgundy, Chardonnay reigns supreme for white wine. Faiveley, one of Burgundy's venerable négociants, has substantial holdings in these parts and from them makes this crisp, lemon-tinged wine. Subtle minerality and hints of creaminess make it a good introduction to white Burgundy. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2008

Domaine Faiveley, Montagny (Burgundy) 2010 ($20): Another remarkable bargain, this shows lovely fruit recalling green apples and slightly under-ripe tangerines. Fresh and energetic thanks to lots of bright acidity, this never turns tart, and the finish shows very nice minerality
Michael Franz Feb 12, 2013

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2020 ($45, Misa Imports, Craig Baker Selection):

Montagny, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of Burgundy’s famed — and expensive — Côte d’Or has always been an insider’s place to find affordable white Burgundy. With ever increasing prices in Burgundy, it has become and even more popular place for those wines. Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, a top producer in Givry, another under-the radar village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is best known for their stunning wines from that village, but has spread its imprint to other villages. With this wine, certainly one of the best Montagny bottlings I’ve ever tasted, they catapult themselves to the upper echelon of Montagny producers as well. It delivers an impeccably balanced combination of succulent fruitiness atop a stone-y base that screams Côte Chalonnaise. It has good weight and concentration without being heavy or overbearing. Its mouthwatering minerality makes this wine sing.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2023

J. M. Boillot, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($35, Vineyard Brands): Since 2013 was overall a cool and rainy year it isn’t surprising that this wine isn’t as concentrated as in warmer vintages, but it still has plenty of complexity as well as tons of charm. Flavors hint at juicy nectarine and Bartlett pear with a fine dose of pebbly minerality and lively acids. One of this wine’s many advantages is that it offers the rare combination of quality Burgundy at an affordable price.
93 Marguerite Thomas Oct 4, 2016

Louis Latour, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) “La Grande Roche” 2018 ($28):

The Côte Chalonnaise is the source of many fine value white Burgundies. Situated just south of the Côte d’Or, the villages here are noted for both red and white wines. The vineyards are interspersed with orchards and pastures, a scene that provides a charming backdrop for the vines. The best appellation for white wines is Montagny. In fact, all the wines under the Montagny AOP are white. Louis Latour’s 2018 Montagny La Grande Roche bottling is drawn from 35-year-old vines and shows the potential of Montagny Chardonnays. The bouquet shows ripe apple, pineapple, lemon and lime fruits with crisp minerality plus floral, herb, and subtle almond nuances. The flavors are refreshing and lively with the pure, racy citrus and apple fruits interwoven with nutty, herbal, butter and mineral nuances. The buttery and spicy notes in the mid-palate recall the style of other more famous and expensive white Burgundies. The Louis Latour Montagny La Grande Roche shows remarkable depth and nuance for its relatively friendly price.
91 Wayne Belding May 11, 2021

Maison Louis Latour, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Grande Roche 2015 ($22, Louis Latour USA):

The 2015 vintage in Burgundy--and most of France for that matter -- produced excellent reds, with ripeness and presence. Whites were less consistent because sometimes the warmth of the vintage robbed them of needed acidity. But when producers harnessed the ripeness without losing acidity, as with this wine, the result is stunning. And especially so when, as, again with this wine, it’s from an appellation with a lesser-pedigree (read, lower price). It’s not a surprising feat given that Maison Louis Latour is one of Burgundy’s best houses. This Montagny, with its richness and verve, is a great choice for this summer’s drinking with grilled fish, steamed clams or lobster.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 31, 2018

J. M. Boillot, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($23, Vineyard Brands): I love the wines from this house for their great value as well as their

great flavor and style, but rarely do I love them as much as I enjoyed this bottle. Uncommonly rich and broad in texture for a Montagny, this is nevertheless perfectly balanced with zesty acidity that lifts the finish without seeming remotely tart or sour. Notes of white peaches and green apples are vivid and sharply focused, and just the right doses of spicy oak and minerality lend lovely complexity to the finish. Tasted over the course of two evenings, this only got better with air. Impressive! 90 Michael Franz Mar 20, 2007

Louis Latour, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($18, Louis Latour Inc.): The fabulous 2005 vintage in Burgundy allowed lesser known appellations, such as Montagny, to produce some wonderful wines that are affordable since they are from less prestigious locales. This Montagny has exceptional forward ripeness coupled with Latour's hallmark bracing acidity, which means it's a delectable buy. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2008

Maison Louis Latour, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Grande Roche 2009 ($20):

The 2009 vintage was especially kind to Chardonnay in Burgundy, giving it extra ripeness and intensity. Villages, like Montagny in the Côte Chalonnaise, were great beneficiaries of the weather because wines from these sites often have a leanness to them. Not so in 2009. Rich creamy notes complement a bracing tautness for a beautifully balanced white wine. Great length and the Latour hallmark of precision make this a distinctive white Burgundy. Snap it up--it won’t be around long at this price. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012

Domaine Laurent Cognard, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Bassets 2009 ($29, Vins Divins): Burgundy lovers are always looking for “affordable” white Burgundy for summer time drinking. Here’s one of them. It has the lushness for which the 2009 vintage is known balanced by the firmness of Montagny. Cognard has captured enough acidity to keep it bright and fresh. This easy to recommend white is an ideal choice for this summer. Stock up. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2012

Louis Baisinbert, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2013 ($40):

Louis Baisinbert is a name to watch. He is a small négociant -- some would call him a “micro-negociant” -- buying no more than a half dozen barrels of an individual wine from a single producer. He supplies the barrels, never new oak, and performs the elevage, which is literally raising (finishing) the wine. He never blends wine from different producers and always searches for wines from vines that are more than 30 years old, because the grapes from those vines produce the most complex wines. He grew up in Burgundy, which gives him an edge on finding the wines, because, as he says with a smile, “If you know nobody in Burgundy it’s over. The big deal is to find the right wine and age it well.” He’s done that with this white Montagny Premier Cru, which develops a captivating combination of a creamy stoniness and enlivening acidity. Fresh and rich simultaneously, it shows that excellent wine is available in less prestigious parts of Burgundy, such as Montagny, as long as you know where to look.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2016

Maison Louis Latour, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “La Grande Roche” 2012 ($25, Louis Latour USA): Montagny is an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise that is home to some excellent white Burgundies, such as this one. Latour has combined the ripeness of the vintage with a steely backbone that keeps it fresh and lively throughout a meal. Authentic white Burgundy at this price is increasingly rare, so stock up. It’s an excellent choice for sushi.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2015

Maison Roche de Bellene, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($30, Loosen Bros. USA): An excellent wine from Montagny, located in the southern portion of Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise, this shows admirable freshness and lovely balance between fruit and acidity. The fruit flavors recall baked apples with a spritz of citrus, and the finishing accents are more mineral than wood-based, which helps the wine to stay refreshing while also seeming substantial.
90 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2014

Maison Louis Latour, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Grande Roche 2007 ($20, Louis Latour Inc.): The village of Montagny in the Cote Chalonnaise has always been the source of well-priced white Burgundy. Despite never reaching the heights it does in the Cote d’Or, Chardonnay does well here, especially in the well-sited vineyards classified as Premier Cru. Latour, one of Burgundy’s leading négociants, has always had longstanding relationships with growers that have enabled them to produce consistently high quality wine that is generally available. Their 2007 conveys a subtle stony element along with plenty of ripe fruit notes--though no one would confuse it with a New World Chardonnay--to offset its lively acidity. Its focus and piercing finish makes it a fine counterpoint to olive oil drizzled on grilled fish. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 21, 2010

Parent, Monthélie Blanc (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2017 ($48):

Domaine Parent, arguably the best producer of Pommard, also makes this stunning white Monthélie. It’s a bit of an oddity because ninety percent of Monthélie’s production is red and the vast majority of Parent’s production comes from their own vineyards. In this case, Parent buys grapes from growers in this nearby and less well-known village and explains why Domaine is not on the label. But quality is in the bottle. Though this wine falls above my arbitrary $40 price point, it is so riveting that I had to include it. Creamy, mineraly and zesty, it’s a bargain for what it delivers.
94 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2020

Domaine Parent, Monthélie Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($55, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Parent, run by sisters Anne and Catherine, is one of Burgundy’s stars. Though their focus is on Pommard, where they are located, their talents extend to other villages in the Côte de Beaune. Monthélie, a touch off the main stretch of the Côte de Beaune since it sits behind the main slope, borders Volnay and Meursault. Although the vast majority of the wine from this village is red, wonderfully whites, such as this one, exist. It conveys a Meursault-like richness and depth, with the vibrancy of the vintage imparting energy and life. It has the complexity and finesse of a premier cru at a village price. Lovely now, to accompany grilled swordfish, its balance and verve indicate a long life ahead of it, so there’s no rush.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2016

Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($2,225, Wilson-Daniels): Silly me, I really didn't know what this cost when I tasted it; it's not like it appears on wine lists at my neighborhood bistros. My reaction was

that it was one of the best Chardonnays I've ever had. The nose is lovely: Ripe pear, ginger, earth and stony minerality. Ripe pear on the palate folds gently into a brioche popover, with some green apple and earthiness on the very long finish. This is the one DRC wine I sampled every drop of. And if some wine has to be the world's most expensive white, it might as well be this one. 99 W. Blake Gray Mar 8, 2011

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($2,000, Wilson Daniels):

DRC makes only one white wine, the Grand Cru Montrachet from Côtes de Beaune, and only in small amounts. Of the dozen producers who make Montrachet, DRC's is the richest and most concentrated, and usually the most expensive. For the many who enjoy its rich, opulent style, it is the best Montrachet. The '04 DRC Montrachet has penetrating aromas of apple and citrus, with a soft, creamy texture. It is rich in flavor, mainly citrus, ripe, and powerful. Its grapes were picked late, adding a rich, honeyed flavor, and yet it has a strong backbone of acidity, suggesting that its lifespan will be great-at least 40 to 50 years. In style, the DRC Montrachet is a cross between the power of a Richebourg and the flamboyance of Romanée-Conti. A classic Grand Cru.

Joseph Drouhin, Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru 2004 ($540, Dreyfus Ashby):

This parcel of Le Montrachet is managed and vinified by the house of Joseph Drouhin. It would be safe to say it's the brightest star in Drouhin's impressive portfolio, and one of the greatest white wines in the world. The '04 vintage was exceptional for whites in the Cotes de Beaune, and the proof is in the bottle. This grand cru is tight and muscular at this stage, exhibiting remarkable depth and complexity (exhibiting nuances of honey, almond, anise, brioche, pear and exotic spices) with powerful backbone. It's a wine for the ages, and should be cellared as if it were a red wine. Don't even think about going near it for another 10 years or more. The suggested retail is a whopping price to pay, but I have found this wine on the internet (you might Google Joseph Drouhin Montrachet) for less tha $400. 100 Robert Whitley Dec 4, 2007

Michael Gay et Fils, Nuits St. Georges (Burgundy, France) "Les Terres Blanches" 2007 ($85, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): White wine from Nuits St. Georges or anywhere in the Côtes de Nuits is rare. Though still made from Chardonnay, these whites have a very different character from the “typical” white Burgundies hailing from the Côtes de Beaune. Gay’s Les Terres Blanches is chewy, weighty--but not in a ripe New World style--and more earthy than minerality. With your eyes closed, you could almost imagine it was a red wine. His 2007 has impeccable balance and acidity, which makes it a delight to drink now. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010

Maison Ambroise, Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Terres Blanches 2008 ($102, Robert Kacher Selection): A white wine from Nuits St. Georges or elsewhere in the Côte de Nuits is rare indeed. But the quality of this wine, not its rarity, is the reason to search for it (Ambroise makes only 150 cases from his half acre of vines). As the name suggests, the soil of this vineyard high on the hillside is white, which Bertrand Amboise says is ideal for Chardonnay. Muscular and broad-shouldered with an intriguing earthy component, a lemony vibrancy holds the flavors all together. Despite its power, it’s an elegant wine whose complexity grows while in the glass. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2012

Domaine Rapet, Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2004 ($37):

This is a very serious, impressively intricate wine. It shows lots of detailed nuances on a solid foundation of fruit recalling peaches and ripe pears. Substantial in feel but delicate in character, this is enduringly interesting. 89 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2007

Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2017 ($45, Louis Latour, USA):

Maison Louis Latour, on of Burgundy’s top producers, made a spectacular array of white wines in 2017. This Premier Cru from Pernand-Vergelesses is just one example. Latour owns a portion of the vineyard, En Caradeux, which sits in an ideal position in the middle of the slope, facing east, which means it’s a Domaine or Estate wine. Across the valley is the hill of Corton. The wine, 100 percent Chardonnay, delivers an alluring minerality, not the overt fruitiness seen in some New World examples. There’s a riveting acidity that holds your interest throughout a meal. Time in the glass reveals more of its charms so this is a wine to savor. My experience tells me that it will develop even more complexity over the next five years.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2019

Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2016 ($37, Louis Latour USA):

Latour’s En Caradeux, which always over delivers for the price, is true to form in 2016. Pure and delicate, the wine is nonetheless rich and long. It has the classic focus and harmony of Latour’s wines. This exhilarating wine shows there are still well-priced Burgundies. Delectable now, my experience with this wine tells me that the 2016 will evolve and drink well for the next five to ten years.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2018

Domaine Chandon de Briailles, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Ile de Vergelesses 2020 ($80, David Bowler Wine):

The Domaine Chandon de Briailles was founded in Savigny les Beaune in 1834 and has been run by François de Nicolay and his sister Claude since 2001. This mouthwatering white Burgundy from Pernand-Vergelesses has a captivating bouquet of pear, Meyer lemon, oyster shell, and jasmine. It is long on the palate and very long on the finish, as a burst of citrus and saline lifts and sustains flavors of white fruit and lemon blossom.
92 Miranda Franco Nov 8, 2022

Domaine Rapet, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Sous Frétille 2008 ($52, Vignoble & Millesimes): Here’s a hat trick--it is still hockey season--for Burgundy fans: a great producer, an excellent vineyard site and a super year for white Burgundy. Pernand-Vergelesses, a tiny village nestled across the valley from the hill of Corton, produces white wines that can rival those from the more famous white wine villages of Burgundy, Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet. This one is beautifully structured, with a bright and fresh signature that balances a prominent and lush mineral component. What a match for grilled swordfish. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2012

Domaine Rapet Père et Fils, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeaux 2004 ($37, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): Despite being home to a portion of Grand Cru Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses remains one of the under recognized--and underpriced--villages in the Côte d'Or. The French authorities just classified the premier cur vineyards starting with the 2000 vintage. Rapet consistently makes superb white wines from Pernand, such as this one, from the En Caradeaux vineyard, just across the road from Corton Charlemagne. In general, I love the 2004 white Burgundies because of their riveting acidity. Here, the acid is beautifully balance by a hint of toasty oak in the nose and a creamy minerality on the palate that carries through into the finish. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Domaine Francoise André, Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($45, Langdon Shiverick Imports): Pernand-Vergelesses, located behind (to the west) of the Hill of Corton is slightly off the beaten track, despite laying claim to a sizeable portion of the Grand Cru vineyard, Corton Charlemagne. As a result, its wines can represent good value -- we’re not talking inexpensive, this is Burgundy, after all. And normally, I’d scoff at a village Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc from a less than outstanding vintage for $45. Then I tasted it. It confirmed what I have always known -- skillful importers rarely lead you astray. Langdon Shiverick is an importer who’s willing to overlook generalities and seek out excellent wines where you would not expect to find them. This is one of them, delivering firmness combined with richness and minerality. And exceptional length for a village wine. I’m sad to report -- it’s a good buy.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2015

Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2014 ($35, Louis Latour USA):

This is what everyone is looking for in white Burgundy -- an affordable overachiever. Three elements come together in a “perfect storm” to create this overachiever. First, there’s the village itself. Pernand-Vergelesses lies “behind” the hill of Corton (to the west) and is often overlooked since it is hidden as you drive the main road of the Côte d’Or. These “hidden” villages are an excellent place to find an affordable overachiever. Secondly, the En Caradeux vineyard, a Premier Cru, is good real estate, lining across the valley and actually facing the vineyards that comprise Corton-Charlemagne. And finally -- and probably most importantly -- is the producer. As a négociant Maison Louis Latour has a “green thumb” with wines, finding sources of top quality grapes and transforming them into exciting red and white Burgundy. Less well appreciated is that Louis Latour is also a Domaine, owning and farming 120-acres of its own vineyards. (Indeed, they are the largest owner of Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy.) This wine comes from the portion of the En Caradeux vineyard they own. Hence it carries the Domaine Louis Latour label, which is subtlely different from their Maison label. Along with a wonderful tension between perfect ripeness and enormous energy characteristic of the vintage, it delivers an alluring combination of spice and minerality. The wine is a steal -- a baby Corton-Charlemagne -- with the advantage of being far more approachable and enjoyable at a young age compared to that Grand Cru. Latour’s whites evolve and develop beautifully with years of bottle age, so stock up on this one and drink it happily now and over the next five years.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2016

Domaine du Colombier, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($21, Monsieur Touton):

In this Petit Chablis the aromas of apple, white peach, citrus and stony minerality are enticing, and these same characteristics follow through on the palate as well. The finish is unstinting, with more of that minerality adding to the pleasure. Produced from the Chardonnay grapes that define the Chablis and Petit Chablis regions, Domaine du Colombier is unlikely to remind you much of any Chardonnay from, say, California. Located in the way northern section of Burgundy these wines are leaner, crisper and more subtle but without being aggressively tart. This wine is also somewhat lower in alcohol — 12% — than ubiquitous California Chardonnay which typically ranges from 13.5% to 14.5%. Petit Chablis was created in 1944 to include the newer vines being planted on top of the hills. Petit Chablis is almost always fermented in stainless steel and rarely sees wood.
92 Marguerite Thomas Nov 10, 2020

Bovier & Fils, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2019 ($19, Monsieur Touton):

Created in 1944 to accommodate regions not included in the Chablis appellation, neighboring Petit Chablis receives less afternoon sun and more wind than its neighbor. With less warmth to ripen its fruit, Petit Chablis wines tend to be higher in acidity and often in minerality as well. If you’re a person who prefers subtleties to hammering the taste buds with obvious fruit and alcohol, this is a wine to seek out. With its low alcohol content (12.5%) and enticing floral aromatic nuances plus crisp green apple, citrus and pineapple flavors heightened by tinges of chalkiness, it’s a wonderful accompaniment to seafood. It seems specially made to pair with oysters, steamed clams and/or lobster.
90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 16, 2021

Billaud-Simon, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Maison Joseph Faiveley, under the able leadership of Erwan Faiveley, has been transforming itself from a small domaine within large négociant business to a large domaine with a far smaller négociant component. As part of that transformation, Faiveley has been purchasing smaller domaines, such as Billaud-Simon, one of my favorite Chablis producers. I suspect under the Faiveley leadership, the Billaud-Simon wines will get even better. For those unfamiliar with Billaud-Simon or Chablis in general, this 2014 Petit Chablis is an excellent place to start. Petit Chablis, still made entirely from Chardonnay, refers to vineyards that have little or none of the classic Chablis Kimmeridgian limestone in the soil. As such, they are typically slightly fruitier than straight village Chablis. In this one a bright crispness and a hint of flintiness balances the delicate fruitiness. It’s a wine to drink now, with simply broiled fish, while it is vibrant and fresh.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016

Domaine Bernard Defaix, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($16, Winebow):

Evidencing a chalky, almost dairy quality that distinguishes many wines from the Chablis region, this wine offers good balance and structure though not all that much fruit flavor. It's firm and compact, so will benefit from decanting.

J. A. Ferret, Pouilly Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) Les Perrières “Tête de Cru” 2009 ($45, Kobrand):

Pouilly Fuissé popularity in the US has, sadly, diluted its reputation for fine wine. Fortunately there are producers, such as Ferret, who ranks with the very top names in Pouilly Fuissé, that have consistently maintained high quality. Since Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best houses, purchased Ferret in 2008, the wines are even better. Ferret has two bottlings of Pouilly Fuissé made from grapes grown in different locales within the appellation. The one labeled Sous Vergisson is more tightly wound and mineraly--more Chablis-like--whereas this one, Les Perrières, is richer and riper. The 2009 Les Perrières has remarkably good acidity for that warm vintage, which amplifies the wines melon-like nuances. This one reminds us why Pouilly Fuissé got its reputation in the first place. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2012

Labouré-Roi, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) "Vallon d'Or" 2003 ($18, Palm Bay): Although the Burgundies from Labouré-Roi rarely are considered to be in the same league as those from the region's more celebrated negociants such as Louis Jadot or Joseph Drouhin, the company does offer some fine wines--at very fair prices. This Pouilly Fuissé is an excellent example. It displays an enticing, mineral-tinged bouquet more akin to prestigious Cote d'Or whites than other Macon ones, followed by multi-layered and deliciously long flavors. Richer than you might expect, due I suspect to the extremely warm 2003 vintage, it nonetheless shows excellent balance, so should age well for at least five more years. I'm tempted to say that this is classy Burgundy for folks on a budget, but that misses the point. It's classy Burgundy no matter the price tag. 92 Paul Lukacs Jan 17, 2006

Domaine J. A. Ferret, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Scélés 2004 ($33, Rosenthal Wine Merchant):
Les Scélés is one of seven vineyards that comprise the roughly 40 acres of Chardonnay that the Ferret family owns in the village of Fuissé. The wine marries creaminess with an elegant and persistent minerality. Wines like this justify Pouilly Fuissé's reputation and price. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2006

Henry Fessy, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Sous La Roche” 2012 ($20, Louis Latour USA): One whiff is all it takes for me to predict that you’ll like this wine. Stony, like good Pouilly Fuissé should be, Fessy’s 2012 Sous La Roche has a complementary dollop of creaminess. Uplifting acidity in the finish keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. Easy to enjoy by itself, it’s substantial enough for a roast chicken. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013

J. A. Ferret, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($35, Kobrand): Ferret is one of the great names in Pouilly Fuissé. Couple them with the superb 2008 vintage and you have an excellent example of white Burgundy. With much Pouilly-Fuissé being dilute and sold on its name alone, it’s a delight to taste the real thing and see why the name still holds cachet. Stony, yet ripe, it’s a “friendly” Chardonnay-based that conveys the minerality of the region. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2012

Labouré-Roi, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes Reserve 2006 ($30, Palm Bay Imports): Labouré-Roi is a Burgundy negociant house that seems to be improving quite notably in the quality of its wines in recent years, and hence a name well worth remembering. This high-end bottling of Pouilly Fuissé has the soft, rounded profile that you'd expect from this most famous village in Mâcon, but it also shows the refinement and the high-class oak you'd associate more with a wine from the Côte d'Or. Fruit notes recalling baked apples are nicely framed and firmed by toasty, spicy oak notes, with fresh acidity providing needed lift for this relatively rich wine. 90 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2009

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($27, Dreyfus Ashby & Co):

Pouilly Fuissé lacks the respect the appellation deserves. Sure, there’s lots of mediocre wine masquerading under the popular Pouilly Fuissé label. But one taste of Drouhin’s shows why this category is so popular. Drouhin’s 2012 is mineraly, lemony and stony. This Chardonnay-based white Burgundy focuses on minerality while their Oregon counterpart, Arthur Chardonnay, has more fruitiness. Both have the hallmark Drouhin elegance.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 11, 2014

Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2013 ($24, Louis Latour USA):

Though the 2014 vintage for whites looks outstanding at this stage, consumers should not overlook 2013 whites, such as this one. Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, consistently makes a stylish and reasonably priced Pouilly-Fuissé. With a creamy lushness and firm stony underpinning, the 2013 fits that mold beautifully. If you’re looking for opulent California Chardonnay, look elsewhere, but if you’re searching for a vibrant accompaniment for grilled fish or sushi, look no further.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2015

J. J. Vincent, Pouilly Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) “Marie Antoinette” 2009 ($25, Frederick Wildman): Although the excellent 2010 white Burgundies are already appearing on retailers’ shelves, consumers should still jump at some of the 2009s, like this one, which tend to be riper and more forward. Vincent is another name on everyone’s short list of top Pouilly-Fuissé producers because of their stellar wines from their domaine, Château Fuissé. Their Cuvée Marie Antoinette, from the négociant side of the business, is easy to recommend because it consistently delivers more than you’d expect from the price. With a lovely generosity of melon-like flavors buttressed by bright acidity, it’s a great choice for dinner tonight with broiled swordfish. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2012

J.J. Vincent, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Propriété Marie Antoinette Vincent 2005 ($23, Wildman): Vincent, whose estate, Château de Fuissé, is one of the leading

properties in Pouilly-Fuissé, also makes and bottles wine from vineyards he does not own. These négociant wines, bottled under the Vincent name, but with a different label, Propriété Marie Antoinette Vincent, are excellent values, especially in a year like 2005. The beauty of the 2005 vintage, which was especially successful in Pouilly Fuissé, perhaps even more so for whites than in the Côte d'Or, is apparent in this wine. Not overdone or heavy, it has a brightness and vivacity that complements its subtle creaminess. It reminds us why Pouilly Fuissé is popular. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2007

Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($20):

This Pouilly Fuissé from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producer, is a “go-to” bottling when looking for a Chardonnay-based wine. Crisp, and clean with a hint of creaminess, it shows the elegance and allure of white Burgundy. Unlike many New World Chardonnays, it’s not opulent. Its charm lies in its cutting stony minerality. It’s a wine you want to drink, not just taste. And it’s a perfect accompaniment to roast chicken or simply grilled fish.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 11, 2014

Labouré-Roi, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) "Vallon d'Or" 2004 ($18, Palm Bay): A lighter style of white Burgundy, this Pouilly Fuissé delivers creaminess, elegance and remarkable length at a bargain price. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2006

Jadot, one of Burgundy's best and most consistent producers, is serious about Pouilly Fuissé, the most important wine area in the Cote Mâconnais. Already a big player--they control about a quarter of the entire region's production--they have just purchased one of the area's best estates, J. A. Ferret. In Jadot's case, size and quality go hand in hand. Their 2006 Pouilly Fuissé has the ripeness and richness characteristic of the 2006 white Burgundies, with an alluring edge of minerality and citric edginess. Those looking for a stylish--not overblown--Chardonnay-based wine need look no further.

Chateau Fuisse, Pouilly-Fuisse (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2010 ($67, Frederick Wildman):

Le Clos comes from a walled parcel of the Le Clos vineyard that sits directly behind the château and adjacent to Les Brulés. Despite the proximity of the two parcels, the wines couldn’t be more different. Le Clos, still rich, is more tightly wound and more mineral-infused than the more opulent Les Brulés. The price, high for Pouilly-Fuissé, reflects its comparable level of quality to the white Burgundies from the Côte de Beaune, its more famous neighbor to the north. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 21, 2012

Chateau Fuisse, Pouilly-Fuisse (Burgundy, France) Les Combettes 2010 ($67, Frederick Wildman): Les Combettes, a third single-vineyard bottling from Château Fuissé, takes its name from the vineyard’s stony pebble-strewn soil. Clearly distinctive, Les Combettes, reflecting the soil, is the most mineraly and taut of Château Fuissé’s three single-vineyard bottles. It’s vibrant and clean with a subtle richness that balances the wine’s glorious vivacity. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 21, 2012

Chateau Fuisse, Pouilly-Fuisse (Burgundy, France) Les Brules 2010 ($67, Frederick Wildman): The vineyard, Les Brulés, which means burned or roasted, takes its name from its southern exposure directly behind Château Fuissé. The wine’s richness and power reflects its site and elevates what can be achieved in Pouilly-Fuissé to a higher level. Despite its size, it is not an overwhelming wine because of its bright and energizing acidity. It maintains the quintessential firmness and minerality of the appellation. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 21, 2012

Chateau Fuisse, Pouilly-Fuisse (Burgundy, France) "Tete de Cru" 2004 ($32, Frederick Wildman & Sons): J.J. Vincent, owner of Château Fuissé, is one of the most talented and dedicated producers in Pouilly-Fuissé. Wines bottled under the Château Fuissé label are from his vineyards (he also acts as a négociant). The Tete de Cru, a blend from many sites with vines more than 25 years old, has the perfect balance of creaminess and minerality. Wines like this explain why Pouilly-Fuissé has such name recognition. If only all wines from Pouilly-Fuissé could taste like this one! 92 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Georges Duboeuf, Pouilly-Fuisse (Maconnais, France) Emile Beranger 2015 ($35):

The Emile Beranger is Duboeuf's chardonnays and is priced accordingly. The vintage was outstanding in the Maconnais region and Duboeuf capitalized. This wine is full and round without being heavy, offering complex aromas of pear and lemon and a subtle hint of wood spice. With bright acidity and exquisite balance, it is the consummate food wine. Serve it with smoked salmon or paired with pasta dishes in a light cream sauce.
91 Robert Whitley Dec 6, 2016

Chateau Fuisse, Pouilly-Fuisse (Burgundy, France) 'Tete de Cru' 2010 ($36, Frederick Wildman): Owned by the Vincent family and run by Jean-Jacques and his son Antoine, Château Fuissé is, without doubt, one of the very best producers in the appellation. They consistently produce a stunning line-up of three single-vineyard wines that reflect the diversity of vineyard sites within Pouilly-Fuissé. This one, labeled Tête de Cru and composed of wine from more than 20 parcels they own throughout the appellation, is a great example of a classic Pouilly-Fuissé. Layers of fruit flavors and spice play off against an engaging firmness and vibrant acidity. One taste explains why Pouilly-Fuissé remains so popular. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 21, 2012

Georges Duboeuf, Pouilly-Fuisse (Maconnais, France) 2015 ($35):

This is Duboeuf's negociant Pouilly-Fuisse, the one insiders call the "flower" label. It has an inviting lean streak, which isn't to say it is austere. Delicate notes of lemon and crisp pear with a hint of wood spice, and mouth-watering acidity, make this offering an exceptional food wine. Pair it with grilled swordfish or roast chicken.
90 Robert Whitley Dec 6, 2016

Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly-Fuisse (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($26, Dreyfus Ashby): Drouhin's village Pouilly-Fuisse from this vintage is a lovely example of the ripeness and flashiness of the wines from this very good year. It exhibits gorgeous layers of pear and baked apple aroma, an intense note of lemon oil, a hint of almond and fresh, mouth-watering acidity. It's an outstanding Chardonnay from a simply fabulous year. 90 Robert Whitley Sep 20, 2011

Georges Duboeuf, Pouilly-Fuisse (Burgundy, France) Emile Beranger 2011 ($25, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): This property in the Macon consistently yields delicious Chardonnay that delivers complex aromas of lemon custard, pear and baked apple. While it lacks the structure of the whites made in the Cote de Beaune, for near-term consumption it is a beautiful alternative to the more expensive Chardonnays of Burgundy, and you can enjoy it now, while you wait for the big fellas to mature. 88 Robert Whitley Aug 20, 2013

Château de Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Le Clos 2015 ($69, Frederick Wildman and Sons):

Pouilly-Fuissé doesn’t get any better than this. Le Clos, sure to be classified as a premier cru vineyard when the classification system for Pouilly-Fuissé goes into effect in the next year or so, is owned solely -- a monopole -- by Château de Fuissé, one of the top producers in the appellation. A simultaneously ripe and vibrant wine, it explodes on the palate and lasts, seemingly forever. In a line-up of famous wines from the Côte d’Or at a recent tasting, it overshadowed all but the Grand Cru. Yes, $70 is a lot for a Pouilly-Fuissé. But this could be Le Montrachet of Pouilly-Fuissé. Trust me, this one is worth it -- if you have $70 to spend on a bottle of wine.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2018

Domaine Robert-Denogent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Cras “Cuvée Claude Denogent” Vieilles Vignes 2007 ($55, Kermit Lynch): If the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation had Burgundy’s usual vineyard ranking of Grand or Premier Cru, the Les Cras vineyard would certainly be near or at the top of the pyramid. For this wine, the vines are old (vieilles vignes), over 70 years, which should add complexity. The name of this special cuvée, the Domaine’s best, honors its founder. All should indicate it is an exceptional wine. And it is. It combines intensity--a chalky minerality--with the elegance of Chardonnay, all balanced by enlivening freshness. For all its power, its lingering impression is its great finesses. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 11, 2011

Auvigue, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Les Villages” 2022 ($49):

The buzz engulfing Pouilly-Fuissé comes from the well-deserved designation of premier cru vineyards. So, now that distinction will appear on labels. But let’s not forget the village wines. A village Pouilly-Fuissé from a top house, like Auvigue, will compete with those labeled premier cru from less talented producers. Auvigue’s 2022, a blend from vineyards throughout the appellation, reminds us why Pouilly-Fuissé has always been, and remains, popular. It is a white Burgundy that delivers everything you want — minerals, some fruitiness, and riveting uplifting acidity. It’s packed yet not heavy. Drink now but cellar it without hesitation because in my experience Auvigue’s wines develop beautifully with proper storage.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2024

Château de Beauregard, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) "Grand Beauregard" 2005 ($69, Ex-Cellars): The Grand Beauregard is a selection of the best barrels of Château de Beauregard's wines regardless of locale. Proprietor Joseph Burrier returns the blend to oak barrels for another year or so. Despite the seemingly intense oak aging, oak flavors do not dominate. You feel the oak's effects--a creamy texture--without tasting it. Long and layered, this is a top-notch wine with great complexity and vibrant acidity. The price is as breathtaking as the wine. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Château des Quarts, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Clos des Quarts 2013 ($70, Becky Wasserman Selection):

Seventy bucks for Pouilly-Fuissé? That’ll get your attention, but so will the quality of this wine. It’s a joint venture between two Burgundy super-stars, Dominique Lafon from Meursault and Olivier Merlin from the Mâconnais, who purchased the vineyard together. It’s a spectacular Pouilly-Fuissé, showing the heights that that appellation can achieve. Rich, but not over ripe, stony and creamy, it has wonderful balance -- nothing is out of place -- and terrific length. It conveys an unusual refinement for a wine from Pouilly-Fuissé.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2016

Château Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Combettes 2011 ($72, Frederick Wildman):

Longtime New York Times wine critic Howard Goldberg summed up Château Fuissé’s five 2011 Pouilly-Fuissé when he compared them to a great poker hand. I’d say a straight flush. Tasting the wines of Château Fuissé, one of the top producers in the region, is a lesson in the French concept of terroir. The wines, all from the same appellation and vinified similarly, are all different and distinctive. Les Combettes, from a slope with little clay interspersed in the limestone, is lacey and stony with a lovely firmness. Brilliant acidity amplifies the finish.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2013

Château Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Le Clos 2011 ($72, Frederick Wildman): Although there’s no official ranking of vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé, most growers agree that Le Clos is one of the most prized sites. Despite its proximity to Les Brûlés, the Le Clos vineyard produces a very different, but equally stunning, wine from its neighbor because of its soil and exposure. An underlying smoky minerality acts as a perfect foil for its ripeness. A long and precise finish reminds you that Pouilly-Fuissé can be a very stylish wine.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2013

Domaine Robert Denogent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes “La Croix” 2007 ($40, Kermit Lynch): Forty bucks is a lot to pay for Pouilly Fuissé, but this is a lot of wine. The Domaine takes its name from the current owner, Nicolas Robert, and his grandfather, whose surname was Denogent. Fine and focused, this wine is less overt and has far more elegance than most wines from this popular appellation. With time in the glass, it unwinds to reveals a creamy minerality and great length. This is classy Pouilly Fuissé and shows that this appellation can deliver excellent wines. With prices of Côte d’Or white Burgundies going through the roof, consumers bent on drinking white Burgundy would be wise to search out the top producers, such as this one, in Pouilly-Fuissé. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 29, 2010

Gilles Morat, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “La Roche” 2006 ($36, VOS Selections): Although verbiage, such as 'La Roche,' on the Pouilly-Fuissé label is confusing--is it the name of a proprietary blend or a vineyard site--the superb quality of this wine is not. La Roche is one of the prime vineyards in the commune of Vergisson, one of the four communes that comprised the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. Gilles Morat and his wife, Joelle, have fashioned a stunning wine from 40 year-old vines in this limestone rich soil. It has striking minerality and elegance--found more commonly in wines from the Côte d'Or than in Pouilly-Fuissé--balanced by bright lemony acidity that keeps it all together. A long and classy wine. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 1, 2008

Auvigue, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Crays 2014 ($32): Auvigue is one of the very top producers in the Mâconnais. Their name on a label is an assurance of quality. They make a range of wines from area including several from Pouilly-Fuissé that express the enormous -- and wonderful -- diversity of that appellation. This one, Les Crays, comes from a vineyard in the commune of Solutré, one of the four communes that comprise Pouilly-Fuissé. Fermented entirely in barrel, none of which are new, it has a weight and sophistication often lacking in wines from Pouilly-Fuissé. It has the vigor of the 2014 vintage, a great one for white Burgundy, meaning that as good as it is now, there’s no rush to consume it. Put a few bottles away for five or so years so you can see for yourself how beautifully Pouilly Fuissé from a top producer can develop.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017

Bouchard Père & Fils, Pouilly-Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2008 ($24, Henriot): Perhaps you can find more complex and interesting Chardonnay for $24, but likewise, perhaps someday pigs will fly as hell freezes over. This is a striking effort that shows how excellent--even profound--negociant wines can be when the house is performing at the top of its game in great vintage. The fruit is generously expressive but still sharply focused, with complex aromas and a very persistent, mineral-tinged finish. 92 Michael Franz Aug 16, 2011

Château de Beauregard, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) "Aux Charmes" 2005 ($50, Ex-Cellars): Château de Beauregard, under the masterful guidance of Joseph Burrier, bottles a range of wines from different locales within Pouilly-Fuissé. All show high quality and are quite distinctive, but this one seemed to me to be the pick of the litter in 2005, an exceptional year for the region. Lush creaminess is apparent, but even more striking is a bright minerality more often associated with wines from the Côte d'Or. Its extraordinary length and harmony increase its appeal. The same wine from the 1996 vintage tasted at the same time demonstrated how beautifully Burrier's wines can develop. But the 2005 is so striking now that few will resist the temptation and cellar it. The price reflects the demand for this great vintage in Burgundy and the sinking dollar. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Château de Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Combettes 2007 ($55, Frederick Wildman):

Unlike the Cote d'Or to the north, Pouilly Fuissé has no official classification of its vineyards. That said, many locals agree that Les Combettes is a vineyard with potential for making higher quality wine. And in Château de Fuissé's hands, that potential is fulfilled. They believe it is their site with the most minerality, so they age the wine only in older oak barrels to let that characteristic shine. And it does. It's a vigorous wine with tightly focused flavors and plenty of ripeness to balance its persistent acidity. The quality of the vineyard shows in this wine's incredible length. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2009

Château Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Brûlés 2011 ($72, Frederick Wildman): Les Brûlés, a vineyard located on a south-facing slope that contains a moderate amount of clay atop limestone, is at the opposite end of the spectrum compared with Les Combettes. It’s always a riper expression of Pouilly-Fuissé. But, despite its power, it’s never overdone. The 2011 fits that mold perfectly. Bright acidity keeps it fresh and balances its creamy richness.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2013

Chateau-Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($60, Frederick Wildman):

Could it make sense to pony up $60 for a wine from Pouilly-Fuissé when you could buy a Premier Cru bottling from Puligny- or Chassagne-Montrachet for that price? Yes it could…if this were the bottle. It is impressively rich but also admirably balanced with acidity for a wine from the warm 2009 vintage, with appealing notes of peaches, poached pears, spices and subtle smoke. Delicious! 92 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2012

Domaine Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($30, Kobrand): You may recoil from the prospect of shelling out $30 for a Pouilly-Fuissé, which is just fine, since that will leave more of this for me. I prefer to think of it as a Burgundian Chardonnay offering a level of character and class usually only found from an appellation like Puligny-Montrachet at prices around $60. The exceptional 2008 vintage is certainly at work in this, as is Maison Louis Jadot, which now owns this property. In any case, the fruit is pure and perfectly poised between ripe generosity and focused minerality, with very precise flavors that finish with perfect symmetry. If my score is off the mark, I’ve missed on the low side. 92 Michael Franz Feb 8, 2011

Domaine Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2016 ($44, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Ferret has always been one of the top names in Pouilly-Fuissé, being one of the first to move from bulk to bottled wine after World War II to ensure quality. Since being acquired by Beaune-based Maison Louis Jadot in 2008, Ferret’s wines have reached new heights, no doubt, in part due to Audrey Braccini, their exceptionally talented winemaker. (Ferret has had female winemakers since 1840.) Though Ferret bottles several vineyard-specific Pouilly-Fuissé, this one is a blend from their vineyards throughout the appellation. The 2016 conveys the delightful combination of charming fruitiness supported by a stone-like mineral quality. Enlivening acidity, especially in the finish, keeps it fresh throughout a meal.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 30, 2019

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($30, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

Pouilly-Fuissé, the best appellation in the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, has such a following in the US that producers can bulk up yields or otherwise cut corners on quality. Drouhin does not. The first sip conveys the refinement that separates this appellation from the rest of the Mâconnais. It has wonderful intensity -- a creamy stoniness -- without being heavy or overtly ripe. Perky acidity amplifies the finish. Drouhin’s 2013, a superb example of Pouilly-Fuissé, shows why that appellation is so popular. Wines from Pouilly-Fuissé have a remarkable ability to develop and improve with bottle age, but frankly, this one is such a delight now, I suspect few people with cellar it.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2014

Bret Brothers, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) En Carementrant 2006 ($56, Polaner Selections): The Bret brothers realize that part of the confusion surrounding the wines from Pouilly-Fuissé is knowing whether the name on the label -- En Carementrant in this case -- is that of a distinguished vineyard or simply a proprietary name masquerading as a site specific wine. Hence, they put on the label prominently that En Carementrant is a climat, or vineyard site. This south-facing vineyard located in the middle of Vergisson, one of the four towns included in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation, is held in high regard by the locals. And this wine shows why. Powerful without being overdone or over ripe, the earthy minerality buttresses the creamy Chardonnay fruit flavors, while a bright citric finish keeps it fresh. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2008

Château de Beauregard, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Classique” 2005 ($30, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): A side by side comparison of Château de Beauregard's Saint-Véran

with this wine offers a dramatic example of why the French label wines by locale. Despite being made from the same grape-Chardonnay--and the same winemaker, the Pouilly-Fuissé is broader and longer with more minerality and ripeness. It has a similar underlying lemon-cream profile, but its depth and length make it a better wine, which, of course, you pay for. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 29, 2008

Château de Beauregard, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) "La Marechaude" 2005 ($50, Ex-Cellars): A very close runner-up to Château de Beauregard's Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Charmes bottling from 2005, Joseph Burrier's La Marechaude is toasty and bright. It's marginally riper and more concentrated than the Aux Charmes, with a supporting grapefruit rind edginess that balances its richness. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Château Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) "Vieilles Vignes" 2011 ($72): Château Fuissé’s Vieilles Vignes bottling comes from their parcels throughout the appellation, Le Clos and others, that have an average age of about 50 years. This full-bodied gem has considerable power buttressed by vibrant acidity. The old vines signature comes through in its incredible complexity and length.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2013

Daniel et Martine Barraud, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) La Verchere Vieilles Vignes 2007 ($40, Skurnik): Wines like this one remind me why Pouilly-Fuissé remains so popular on these shores despite a premium price tag. It delivers the creamy minerality common to many wines from the Côte Mâconnais, but with considerably more class and finesse. Very long and focused, its vibrant acidity amplifies and elongates the flavors. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2010

Maison Louis Jadot, Pouilly-Fuissé (Mâconnais, Burgundy, France) 2017 ($27):

Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, needs no further introduction. It’s hard to go wrong with any wine carrying the Jadot name. With the 2020 vintage, regulators have designated about 25 percent of the vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé, the leading village in the Mâconnais, to have Premier Cru status. Wines from some of those vineyards is included in Jadot’s 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé, which along with the talents of Jadot’s winemaking team, explains why this wine is so enjoyable, delivering the perfect balance of opulence and elegance.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2020

Albert Bichot, Pouilly-Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) Le Clos 2009 ($23, Arborway Imports): Pouilly-Fuissé, the best appellation in the Mâconnais, lacks a classification system for its vineyards. But if there were one, Le Clos certainly would be in the top tier. The 2009 vintage produced rich white Burgundies and was especially successful in the Mâcon region. So buying this wine is a no-brainer since Bichot is an excellent négociant. Ripe, without being overdone, a stony firmness complements its fruitiness while citrus notes in the finish add vibrancy. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

Château Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Tête de Cru” 2011 ($42, Frederick Wildman): A blend from about 20 different parcels scattered throughout the appellation, all owned by Château Fuissé, the Tête de Cru represents a broad expression of Pouilly Fuissé. Its depth and elegance reminds us why Pouilly-Fuissé became and remains so popular. As with Château Fuissé’s other 2011s, bright acidity reinforces its pleasures.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2013

Château Moulin-À-Vent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012 ($42, Wilson Daniels): Though Château Moulin-À-Vent focuses on their red wines, they also have old Chardonnay-planted vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé. Their Vieilles Vignes bottling conveys the stony character of Pouilly-Fuissé. Tightly wound at this stage, I would give it a few years before pulling the cork even though it’s from the 2012 vintage, one known for lower-acid white wines, because there’s no lack of structure here -- the old vines speaking, I’m sure.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 9, 2014

Chateau-Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) “Tête de Cru” 2009 ($30, Frederick Wildman):

This high-end Chardonnay shows the ripeness and generosity of the vintage more prominently than the mineral aspect that also marks most wines from Pouilly-Fuissé. The fruit recalls ripe peaches with a backnote of mango, but there’s also an edge of citrus acidity and a subtle mineral undertone that helps the wine finish with a sense of place.
90 Michael Franz Apr 3, 2012

Domaine Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Vignes Blanches” 2005 ($26, Kysela): A youthful yet still compellingly complex wine that tastes of fruit (green apples and bosc pears), with subtle suggestions of slate and stone. The wine undoubtedly will improve with more time in bottle, but is so tasty now that cellaring it requires an unhealthy level of self-denial. Unless, that is, you buy it by the case. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 3, 2007

Georges DuBoeuf, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($19, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): The white Burgundies from the much-heralded 2005 vintage are starting to appear on retailers' shelves. My barrel tastings indicate

that they are extremely appealing, especially from the Côte Mâconnais, even though they are less exciting than the 2005 reds. Pouilly-Fuissé, the most recognized village in the Côte Mâconnais, produced some luscious wines in 2005, such as this one from DuBoeuf, a producer known more for his Beaujolais than anything else. Made entirely from Chardonnay (by law), DuBoeuf's 2005 Pouilly-Fuissé has lush and enticing creaminess atop an almost earthy, stony quality. Quite forward, it's a wine for drinking now. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007

J. J. Vincent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Marie Antoinette” 2014 ($26, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.):

If J. J. Vincent’s name is on a label, you can buy the wine with confidence knowing that you’ll enjoy it. Vincent, based in Pouilly-Fuissé, owns several vineyards in that appellation and makes distinctive wines from each of them, highlighting the diversity of the terroir there. They also make this terrific wine from grapes purchased from family members. Always easy to recommend because it delivers far more than the price suggests, it’s especially noteworthy in the 2014 vintage. It’s real Pouilly-Fuissé with a subtle creaminess atop a firm and bright stoniness. Don’t miss it.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2016

Louis Latour, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($28, Louis Latour USA):

Let’s face it: Buying Pouilly-Fuissé is, figuratively speaking, akin to walking through a minefield. Wines from this appellation, the best from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, range from insipid to stellar. This 2012, from one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is easy to recommend. The opulence found in the 2012 whites in general, and this one in particular, dovetails perfectly with Latour’s crisp and riveting style. The wonderfully bright finish amplifies the wine’s creamy nuances.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2015

Marie-Pierre Manciat, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Petites Bruyères 2012 ($25, Langdon Shiverick Imports): This is another example of why Pouilly-Fuissé is such a popular appellation, home to Chardonnay-based stylish wines at an excellent price. Marie-Pierre took the reins from her father, Claude, in 2002 and, judging from this classy wine, she is a top producer in the appellation. It combines creaminess and stoniness with a purity and vibrancy that makes you want to come back for another sip. It would be a great choice for broiled swordfish.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015

Rijckaert, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Les Chailloux” Vieilles Vignes 2006 ($32, Ideal Wine & Spirits): Jean Rijckaert, a talented winemaker and founder with Jean-Marie Guffens of the excellent Burgundian firm, Verget, set off on his own several years ago. Along with his own vineyards, he acts as a négociant, buying grapes of other growers, whose name he puts on the label--Nathalie Bressand--in this case. This is a very serious Pouilly-Fuissé and underscores why that appellation has such a good reputation. It delivers an upfront impact and finishes with a lush creaminess. This is a very appealing wine for current consumption. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2009

Vincent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) “Marie Antoinette” 2010 ($25, Frederick Wildman): This wine is another example of the trend in Burgundy for high-quality estates, JJ Vincent of Château Fuissé in this case, to make a small amount of wine from purchased grapes and sell it under a lightly different négociant label (Vincent). The Chardonnay comes from Vincent family members’ holdings in Vergisson and Fuissé, two of the prized communes in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation, as well as from the younger vines at Château Fuissé. Refreshing citrus notes amplify racy green apple-like flavors. The judicious use of oak adds a subtle and engaging creaminess. It has good weight and invigorating mineraly finish. It may lack the complexity of the wines from Château Fuissé, but it still delivers more than the price implies and is easy to recommend. The wine reminds us of why Pouilly-Fuissé became--and remains--so popular. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2012

Château de Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 'Tête de Cru' 2007 ($37, Frederick Wildman): Château de Fuissé, one of the best producers in the area, made a superb array of wines in 2007. This one, a blend of 14 different plots, is the most representative of the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. It has nice ripe melon-like notes atop an attractive stoniness characteristic of the wines from the region.
89 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2009

Dominique Cornin, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($27): The 2007 vintage produced superb white Burgundies. The wines from the Côte Chalonnaise did particularly well because their ripeness balanced the acidity of the vintage. This one is plenty ripe and forward without being heavy or overdone. Crisp acidity amplifies the almost stone fruit flavors. It has uncommon elegance. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2011

Labouré-Roi, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) "Vallon d’Or" 2006 ($21, Palm Bay Imports): By comparison to the Vieilles Vignes Reserve Pouilly Fuissé from Labouré-Roi, this wine is much less oaky and much more simple, and yet the fruit is so delicious that there's no knocking this wine. Fruit notes of ripe apples and peaches are vivid, soft in texture, and nicely balanced with fresh acidity. 89 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2009

J.J. Vincent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Marie-Antoinette” 2011 ($25): The Vincent family, in addition to owning and making estate wines under the famed Château Fuissé label, runs a négociant business under the JJ Vincent name. Their Marie-Antoinette Pouilly-Fuissé, from parcels owned by other members of the family as well as the young vines of Château Fuissé, is a consistent winner for its price value ratio. The 2011 continues the reputation. While not being as concentrated or luxurious as the ones from Château Fuissé, its hint of creaminess and green apple-like fruitiness provides great enjoyment either as a stand alone aperitif or as a good match for a roast chicken.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2013

Domaine J.A. Ferret, Pouilly-Fuisse AOC (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($35, Kobrand):

This Pouilly-Fuisse from J.A. Ferret is beautifully balanced and structured, demonstrating Burgundy's remarkable capacity to deliver firm acidity and minerality without sacrificing rich flavors. This vintage shows a floral nose with notes of lemon oil and pear, with a toasty brioche note. A panel of advanced and master sommeliers at the 7th annual Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition awarded it a Platinum medal with a score of 94 points. 94 Robert Whitley Sep 15, 2015

Domaine J. A. Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Ménétrières “Hors Classe” 2022 ($93, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, recently purchased Domaine J. A. Ferret, one of stars of Pouilly-Fuissé. Under Jadot’s leadership, the quality of the Ferret wines, already top-notch, has risen even more. (Sadly, so has the price.) All of Ferret’s vineyards are located in Fuissé, the heart of the appellation. This finesse filled Les Ménétrières shows the height that Pouilly Fuissé can achieve. It is a fantastic wine delivering everything you would expect — a touch of fruitiness accented by a piercing minerality and a plethora of nuances that appear with each sip. An uplifting, long, and bright finish just amplifies its appeal.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024

Domaine Merlin, Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chevrières 2022 ($72):

The French wine authorities have finally identified and codified Premier Cru vineyards for Pouilly-Fuissé so that moniker along with the vineyard name is now appearing on the label, just as in the rest of Burgundy. Unsurprisingly, the elevation of some vineyards to Premier Cru classification has brought with it an elevation of price. This balanced Les Chevrières spent 18 months aging in oak, but you would never guess it because of how seamlessly the wood has melded into the wine. Domaine Merlin, one of the Mâconnais’ top producers, has combined good density, minerality, and bright acidity in this beauty. It shows stature that justifies its Premier Cru status.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024

La Soufrandière, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) Les Quarts 2022 ($60):

There is no better producer in the Mâconnais than La Soufrandière, a family domaine owned by the Bret Brothers. The brothers also buy grapes from neighbors and other growers who have the same meticulous philosophy as they and bottle them as a négociant under the label, Bret Brothers. Those wines are also a safe bet a well, delivering more than you would expect from the price. This Pouilly-Vinzelles could be considered their flagship. Planted by their grandparents, it is a 10-acre limestone rich plot with perfect exposure in mid-slope facing east. Jean-Philippe explains that most of the vines are 70 years old, but there are some young vines — only 40 years old! The spectacular 2022 Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Quarts delivers a dazzling array of subtle fruitiness, firm minerality in a tightly wound body. You realize its stature and power when it explodes in the finish. We’re forced to put numbers as a rating. In my private notes it gets “WB" which stands for "would buy." Sixty bucks for a Pouilly-Vinzelles, you ask? No, I say $60 for a fabulous wine that delivers far more than its price suggests. Last fall in Paris, I still remember the awe at the table as we had our first sip of the 2014. La Soufrandière’s wines develop magnificently — if you can keep the corkscrew away from them.
96 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024

La Soufrandiere, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) Les Quarts 2006 ($56, Polaner Selections): The Bret brothers have made a sensational wine from the Les Quarts vineyard in Pouilly-Vinzelles. The wine comes from 40 to 70 year old Chardonnay vines planted in a vineyard with a southeast orientation, the exposure of most of Burgundy's best vineyards. They have combined lush melon-like fruit with an exceptional minerality and a citric edginess. It has the finesse and balance that is the hallmark of the Bret Brothers' wines. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2008

Louis Latour, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) “En Paradis” 2012 ($22):

The attention wines from small growers receive from the press, sommeliers and retailers can make us overlook wines from even the best négociants. That’s always a mistake and this wine is just another case in point. Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant, owns no land in Pouilly-Vinzelles, an appellation neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé. Yet, year after year, they reliably bottle a zippy wine from that appellation. Less creamy with more citrus focus than Latour’s Pouilly-Fuissé, it’s a great bargain and a perfect introduction to this often overlooked appellation.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2015

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Mâconnais, Burgundy, France) 2015 ($20, Dreyfus Ashby):

The 2015 vintage in Burgundy delivered outstanding reds and whites. It’s a rare vintage that is successful for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but 2015 was. The reds, for the most part, though engaging now, are best put in the cellar. The whites are hard to resist now, especially those from the Mâconnais. Pouilly-Vinzelles, a microscopic appellation compared to its more famous neighbor, Pouilly-Fuissé, can deliver equally enjoyable wines. Usually less ripe and robust compared to Pouilly-Fuissé, the wines from Pouilly-Vinzelles often have an attractive taut and racy quality. Drouhin’s 2015 Pouilly-Vinzelles marries that raciness with ripeness characteristic of the vintage. Exceptionally long, this is a great bargain. My advice? Buy it by the case. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2017

La Soufrandiere, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2006 ($37): In addition to their négociant role, the Bret brothers own vineyards in the Mâconnais and sell the wines made from their grapes under the La Soufrandiere designation. These-- their estate wines-- are worth searching for because they represent the pinnacle of wines from the Mâconnais. While lacking the name recognition of its more famous and larger (1,900-acre) neighbor, Pouilly-Fuissé, the wines from the tiny (125 acre) appellation of Pouilly-Vinzelles when made by talented producers offer excellent value. The ripe, engaging stone fruit-like flavors and wonderful balance compensate for the more muted minerality found in their Pouilly-Fuisse. A fine expression of Chardonnay. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2008

Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Folatières “Clos des Folatières” 2017 ($104, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Paul Pernot owns 7.5 acres of the 43-acre Folatières vineyard, the entirety of the Clos and two other parcels. They bottle wine made from the Clos themselves and sell the grapes from the other two parcels. When I tasted this during my visit to Pernot in November 2018, it was rich, spicy and balanced, my favorite of his stunning array of premier crus. I liked it so much that when it recently became available at a very good price, I splurged and bought a few bottles. Now, it’s like a tightly wound spring waiting to explode. The elegance and grace of top Puligny-Montrachet was there, especially in its lengthy finish. It actually blossomed and showed its best after being opened and kept in the refrigerator for two days. This is one for the cellar.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2020

Domaine Alain Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($54, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines): Whether white or red, Burgundy from top-class villages has become prohibitively expensive, making it necessary for most of us mere mortals to find good examples by way of picking good producer's wines from excellent vintages. I don't have much experience with producer, but the 2014 vintage for white Burgundies is sensational, and this is absolutely a wine to buy. Intensely aromatic, it shows citrus and green apple fruit notes intermingled with wonderful toasty, spicy, nutty accents from high-class oak. Lingering minerality lends more interest still, and in overall terms, this shows complexity that exceeds Premier Cru wines from other vintages or producers that cost twice as much.
94 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2017

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($94, Wilson Daniels): Many village wines from Puligny-Montrachet are disappointing because the prestige of the appellation guarantees an increased cost, but not necessarily a corresponding increase in quality. Leflaive's shows why that village has the reputation that it does. The smoky minerality often found in Leflaive's wines is here, but the added complexity that arises from the site separates it from the masses. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2007

Jean Pascal et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) “Les Enseignères” 2019 ($56, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

This lieu-dit, entitled only to a village appellation, lies across the road, but downhill from the Grand Cru Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet. Even in Jean Pascal’s talented hands, this village wine is not in the Grand Cru category, but it is more impressive than many producers’ premier cru — and at a far more attractive price. It leads with the lovely floral scent characteristic of Puligny-Montrachet and follows with a haunting minerality. Long and lacey, its charms are readily apparent now, so treat yourself.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2021

Alex Gambal, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($64, Ruby Wine): Many of the 2009 white Burgundies are lush and forward with lowish acidity that makes them delightful for drinking right now. But according to Alex Gambal, some of them of “tightening up” and showing more verve than in the past. His 2009 village Puligny-Montrachet is one of them. With vigorous acidity and a bracing character that balances the ripe apple-like fruit, it tastes more like a 2008 white. This is a great village wine and shows why wines from there are so popular. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($71, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Pernot’s village Puligny always has the grace and precision of many producers’ premier crus. The minerality and delicacy of their 2017 fits that description. It also reflects their restrained style. Its class comes through in its length. Tightly wound at this stage, it showed best the following night after being left opened in the refrigerator. This is a fabulous village wine.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2020

Joseph Drouhin, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($55, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Puligny-Montrachet is a village wine with distinctive character and flavor complexity. Aged for nine months in oak, this wine has a brilliant light gold color, mineral, floral and green apple-scented aromatics, with textured flavors of almonds and ripe pears. It finishes with 13.5% alcohol and great balance and complexity.
91 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 27, 2011

Olivier Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2010 ($53, Frederick Wildman & Sons): This wine is an excellent representation of Puligny-Montrachet because it comes from 21 plots scattered around the village. At this stage, it’s tightly wound, more flinty and steely than opulent. The oak is beautifully integrated and adds a very subtle creaminess. Its finish is far longer than you’d expect from a village wine and is amplified by edgy acidity. I’d give it another year or so to unwind before uncorking. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Domaine Henri Clerc et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Les Levrons 2005 ($55, VOS Selections): Domaine Henri Clerc, located in Puligny-Montrachet, makes especially attractive wine from that village. The single vineyard Les Levrons--not a premier cru--has the magical combination of minerality and bright acidity for which the village is justifiably renown. It's a cut above most village wines and has more complexity and style than many producers' premier cru wines. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 1, 2008

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($50): Perhaps because Puligny-Montrachet is so well known--home to all or part of four of the Côte de Beaune’s six Grand Cru vineyards for white wine--that its village wines are frequently overpriced for what they deliver. Not this one. Drouhin has long-term contracts with a number of growers and consistently produces a high quality wine from this village. Their 2008, focused and pure with hints of honey and toast, has riveting acidity that holds your attention throughout a meal. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 20, 2010

Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($39, Louis Latour USA):

The village of Puligny-Montrachet has the reputation for the best white wines in Burgundy. Hence, they’re always more expensive than other village white Burgundies and frequently overpriced considering the quality. Not this one. Latour owns no vineyards in Puligny, yet makes terrific wines—don’t miss their Folatières—consistently. So much for the idea you need to be a grower to make distinctive wines. Latour’s 2007 is crisp, minerality—actually a little steel—with good ripeness to balance the bracing acidity characteristic of the vintage. It shows the class of the village. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010

Vincent Girardin, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) "Vielles Vignes" 2005 ($49, Vineyard Brands): A beautiful, though of course still very young, white Burgundy, with the character and class that usually distinguishes premier cru wines from those most prestigious appellation. The 2005 vintage in the Cote d'Or yielded balanced but at the same time rich and fleshy whites that should appeal especially to people who know Chardonnay primarily through a New World lens. This wine should be decanted if you want to drink it in the near term. 90 Paul Lukacs Oct 23, 2007

Girardin, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($55, Vineyard Brands): While there is no legal definition for Vieilles Vignes (old vines), these vines must be plenty old judging by this wine's incredible depth. The wine's intensity is matched by overt oak overtones and vibrant acidity. At this stage, the overall impression is one of power over finesse. Take note: here's another top-notch Burgundy producer bottling wines under screw cap. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2007

Vincent Girardin, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($49, Vineyard Brands): This very fine village-level Puligny shows unusually substantial fruit that is indicative of the vintage as well as the generous style of Girardin's wines. Baked apple is the lead fruit note, and it is quite rounded and soft in feel, as opposed to the lean, linear profile that is more customary for entry-level bottlings from Puligny. The oak is commensurately voluminous, lending toasty, spicy notes and a bit of tannic grip in the finish. 87 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2007

Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, Puligny–Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2017 ($28, Winebow):

With its easygoing charm and grace this 2017 little gem offers both the structure and length found in many of this vintage’s white Burgundies. It hits the spot as an aperitif and can follow up tastily at the dinner table as well. This versatile wine partners beautifully with sushi, or pork roast and even with egg-centric dishes such as quiche.
93 Marguerite Thomas Dec 15, 2020

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Pucelles 2008 ($250, Wilson-Daniels): I realize that precious few people will be spending $250 for a bottle of wine. But if you are one of them, this is the one to buy. The Les Pucelles vineyard is considered by many to be the top premier cru in

Puligny, and some Burgundy authorities believe it should be classified as Grand Cru. And certainly in Domaine Leflaive’s hands, this is a Grand Cru wine in all respects. It has power without being heavy. It has extraordinary depth and richness without being overdone. It has verve and minerality that complements its richness. Surprisingly open and drinkable now, Leflaive’s wines developed beautifully over one to two decades so don’t be misled that its precociousness precludes cellaring. I suspect it will close up over the next year, so splurge and drink it now or cellar it for a decade. 98 Michael Apstein May 31, 2011

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Pucelles 2004 ($220, Wilson Daniels): Although labeled 1er cru, Leflaive's 2004 Pucelles has grand cru length and power--not to mention price. Incredible flinty minerality and a lush creamy texture create an extra dimension in this wine. Tightly wound and focused, it has the balance and finesse that are the hallmark of this Domaine. This phenomenal wine needs many years to reveal its full potential grandeur. 97 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2007

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Pucelles 2008 ($175, Dreyfus Ashby): Pucelles, or Les Pucelles as it is also known, along with Le Cailleret are the best premier cru vineyards in Puligny. Pucelles lies adjacent to the grand cru, Bâtard Montrachet. Drouhin’s 2008 Pucelles is exceptional. It has a little bit of everything—honey, white flowers, minerality—and not too much of anything. Exquisitely balanced, it astounds with its finesse and persistence more so than sheer power. Like a tightly coiled spring, it does have plenty of power waiting to be released, but, to repeat, that’s not why it’s a dazzling wine. Each sip makes you stop and take notice because the palate is flooded with flavor, restrained at first and then explosive. It’s an extraordinary young wine—grand cru in everything but name—that I would cellar for at least a decade, which will allow the spring to expand. 97 Michael Apstein Feb 21, 2012

Domaine Henri Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Mouchère 2007 ($156, The Sorting Table): Clos de la Mouchère, an enclave with the 1er Cru vineyard, Perrières, is a monopole (owned exclusively by) of Henri Boillot, one of Burgundy's best producers. Paradoxically, this wine is both explosive and tightly wound and demonstrates the grandeur that was possible with 2007 white Burgundies. Although it has a definite stony quality, it's not a hard wine. A captivating creaminess complements its minerality and bracing acidity. It's a sumptuous wine whose focused flavors carry into a seemingly never-ending finish. Yes, it's whopping price for a premier cru--even from Puligny--but it's an extraordinarily classy wine. 96 Michael Apstein Mar 31, 2009

Domaine Henri Clerc et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combettes 2005 ($110, VOS Selections):

Although Les Combettes is classified as a premier cru vineyard, this wine is of grand cru quality. It's denser, longer and deeper than Henri Clerc's superb Champ Gain, but maintains the riveting focus and bracing acidity to achieve exquisite balance. Nuances of buttered toast harmonize with fleeting glimpses of ripe fruit and minerality. You feel--rather than taste--the effect of oak fermentation and aging. A wine for the cellar, it will be glorious in another five or so years.

Maison Louis Jadot, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Garenne Duc de Magenta 2004 ($60, Kobrand): The Duc de Magenta owns Clos de la Garenne, an enclave within the Folatières vineyard. Jadot makes and commercializes the wine. Sophisticated and refined, the 2004 has an alluring combination of creaminess surrounding a mineral core. You feel, but do not taste, the effect of oak aging. In short, it is a sensational wine. 96 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine Henri Clerc et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Champ Gain 2005 ($87, VOS Selections): This Domaine's premier cru wines, such as Champ Gain, truly fulfill the potential of those great sites. Tightly wound with intriguing smoky elements, this wine needs a few years to reveal all its charms. The fabulous nose, the long, focused finish, and beautiful balance indicate it will reward cellaring. At this stage, the ripe fruit character found in many 2005 white Burgundies takes a back seat to classic wet stone character of wines from Puligny. Although Vincent Girardin is in charge of the vineyards and winemaking at Domaine Henri Clerc, the style of the wines is dramatically different--more restrained and less oaky--compared to the wines he releases under his own label. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 1, 2008

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clavoillon 2004 ($132, Wilson Daniels): A notch up from their Puligny-Montrachet, Leflaive's Clavoillon has a steely taut feel to it and a wondrous combination of smokiness, minerality and laser-like lemony acidity. It's an extraordinarily well-balanced wine, with a finish that seemingly lasts forever. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2007

Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Cote de Beaune, France) Les Folatieres 2004 ($76, Louis Latour): I am always impressed at what a wonderful wine Latour makes year in and year out from purchased fruit from this vineyard. People who are skeptical of wines from négociants should taste this one. Mineral-infused and balanced, it is rich and long with great finesse. Les Folatières is always one of Latour's best wines and the 2004 is no exception. 95 Michael Apstein May 16, 2006

Domaine Jacques Prieur, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru () Les Combettes 2007 ($140, Frederick Wildman):

Prieur made sensational white wines in 2007. Nadine Gublin, Prieur's talented winemaker, said their secret was to wait for the Chardonnay to get ripe. They waited another two weeks after the reds had been harvested before bringing in the whites, and even with that they found the acidity was even higher than in the 1996 whites. She certainly got it right with this one, a tightly focused wine emblematic of Puligny-Montrachet. There's plenty of lushness lurking beneath the surface to balance the riveting citric acidity, which carries the smoky minerality into the lengthy finish. 94 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2009

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clavoillon 2008 ($143, Wilson Daniels):

Antoine Lepetit, a representative of Domaine Leflaive, one of Burgundy’s top white wine producers, notes that their 2008 white Burgundies were “quite troubling” when tasted in barrel because of “ferocious acidity.” The malolactic fermentation, which changes hard malic acid into a softer lactic acid, seemingly took forever, but after it finished, the wines had been transformed and tamed. This gorgeous wine has ample concentration and ripeness with striking minerality. The acidity is not excessive, adding an enlivening counterpoint and amplifying the flavors. As with all great wines, it opens as it sits in the glass delivering even more pleasure. Currently captivating, it will likely close down in a year or two, so those who can afford it should either pull the cork now or be prepared to cellar it for five to ten years. 94 Michael Apstein Jun 14, 2011

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru () Clavoillon 2005 ($135, Wilson Daniels): Lusher and slightly more forward at this stage than Leflaive's 2004 Clavoillon, the 2005 still has firm acidity to balance its great power, minerality and an alluring hint of bacon fat. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2007

Joseph Drouhin, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Folatieres 2004 ($65, Dreyfus Ashby):

This is an outstanding wine from an exceptional vintage and it has considerable room for improvement. Who says you don't get what you pay for? The '04 Folatieres shows the trademark flinty minerality of Puligny on the nose, a hint of smokiness and a subtle touch of honeysuckle. On the palate this is a beautifully structured white Burgundy, tightly wound but with a suggestion of the richness, length and complexity that will come with sufficient age. The richness of the mid-palate gives way to a lingering lemon-citrus finish. Outstanding now, even better in another four to five years. 93 Robert Whitley Nov 28, 2006

Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Folatières 2006 ($100, Louis Latour Inc.): Anyone who says that the Latour house style trumps the individuality of the vineyard just needs to taste this Folatières next to Latour's Meursault Charmes (also reviewed this week). Wines from Puligny-Montrachet are typically more refined and exhibit more minerality than those from Meursault. This wine, from one of the village's top 1er cru vineyards, is no exception. With great finesse and precision, it combines richness with an underpinning minerality and exceptional length. A little reticent at this stage, it will benefit from several years of bottle age. But if you can't wait, let it breathe for a couple of hours. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 16, 2008

Maison Louis Jadot, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Champs-Gain Domaine Andre Gagey 2004 ($55, Kobrand): From a parcel owned by the late André Gagey, Jadot's previous Managing Director and father of the current President, Pierre-Henri, Jacques Lardière has fashioned a tightly packed and refined wine. It's full of creaminess and minerality, and has great length, everything you'd expect from top rank Puligny-Montrachet. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Génout-Boulanger, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Champs Gain 2004 ($50, Wildman): A small, quality-oriented domaine located in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet, Génout-Boulanger turned out excellent white wines in 2004. This one has the minerality expected in wines from Puligny-Montrachet and the depth and length of a premier cru. Well-priced for what it is, it's a positive bargain--$40-at Zachy's Wines and Spirits in Sacrsdale, outside of New York City. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006

Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Truffières 2009 ($55, Louis Latour USA): The 2009 white Burgundies are fleshy and forward wines ready for earlier consumption than the more structured 2007s or 2008s. Latour, traditionally an excellent source for white Burgundy, does not disappoint in 2009. Les Truffières manifests alluring smoky and flinty notes that complement its fruity fleshiness and mark it as a wine from Puligny. Less tightly wound than usual, it’s engaging now. It’s easy to recommend. 91 Michael Apstein Jun 21, 2011

Jean Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2011 ($100, Boisset USA):

Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy. The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness. The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy--same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. This long and persistent wine would be a good choice with shellfish or simply broiled fish.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 15, 2013

Olivier Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Champs Gain 2007 ($92, Wildman): One sip and you know this wine came from Puligny-Montrachet. Its tightly wound core of minerality is surrounded by a citric fruitiness and just a whiff of oak. It's a wonderfully balanced wine, which, similar to Leflaive's other 2007s whites, has sufficient ripeness to offset the acidity characteristic of the vintage and is a delight to drink now. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Pucelles 2001 ($157, Wilson Daniels): The 2001 Les Pucelles has rich, concentrated, flavors of ripe apple and citrus. It has lots of power and great depth, but with the delicacy that Les Pucelles, my favorite Leflaive Premier Cru, always shows. It is drinking beautifully now, just beginning to reach its peak, but should hold its form for many years. 95 Ed McCarthy Apr 10, 2007

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Pucelles 1999 ($222, Wilson Daniels): The 1999 Les Pucelles, completely developed, is perfect now. It has lemony aromas and flavors, good acidity, and lots of power. A rich Burgundy, yet supple. A real treat! 94 Ed McCarthy Apr 10, 2007

Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Truffiere 2006 ($106, Louis Latour Inc.): One of the many admirable qualities of Latour's white wines is that they remain true to their village and vineyard appellation. Sure, there's a house signature to the wines--tightly wound, good acid and pure when young--but the uniqueness of the place always shows through, as with this bottling. The minerality common to wines from Puligny-Montrachet is apparent. But atop that is a glorious richness and exotic herbal flavors--even a touch of licorice or mint--that add complexity and explain why premier cru vineyards are worthy of that accolade. Reflective of the vintage, it's forward, especially for one of Latour's whites. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 6, 2009

Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Truffières 2012 ($95, Louis Latour USA): Despite the concentration of Latour’s whites in 2012, the wines still reflect their origins. This wine has a particularly stony edginess that screams Puligny-Montrachet and distinguishes it from the slightly creamier Meursault. Like Latour’s Meursault Premier Cru, Les Truffières has a welcome vibrancy that balances its riches, amplifies its finish and puts its refinement into sharp relief. More tightly wound at this stage than the Meursault Château de Blagny, it needs a few years to blossom.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2014

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Folatières 2004 ($158, Wilson Daniels): The 2004 Les Folatières has broad, smoky, seductive aromas of citrus and honey, with lots of elegance. It needs another three years to fully develop. A powerful Premier Cru. 91 Ed McCarthy Apr 10, 2007

Joseph Drouhin, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Folatieres 2007 ($88, Dreyfus Ashby):

The '07 Folatieres is probably one of the most expressive young wines I've tasted from this vineyard, a top premier cru in the center of the village. It exhibits the trademark Puligny minerality, mouth-watering acidity and aromas of ripe pear and toasted brioche. While excellent for current consumption, the track record indicates this wine will evolve slowly over the next decade, with optimum drinking along about 2015.

Michel Picard, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chalumaux 2006 ($69, Brown Forman): This Puligny from Picard emphasizes the ripeness of Chardonnay more than the inherent minerality ascribed to the appellation. The almost tropical fruit character is nicely balanced by alluring spice and citric nuances. At this stage, it's an overt wine, so drink it now. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008

Claudie Jobard, Rully (Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France) Montagne La Folie 2018 ($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

No doubt about it, this is a great wine. People, my editor included, will be startled by my awarding 95 points to a village Rully, which just exemplifies the problem of numerical rating. On an absolute scale, is this a 95 Point wine, comparable to a Grand Cru from the Côte d’Or? Of course not. But it is likely the best, or certainly among the best, village Rully I’ve ever tasted. My friend and colleague, Robert Whitley, has the best definition of the point scale — it’s an applause meter, a way to describe how much you like a wine. Well, using that definition, Jobard’s 2018 Rully “Montagne La Folie” is definitely a 95-point wine. It has the quintessential stoney character of Rully with a touch extra ripeness (that’s the vintage speaking) and exceptional acidity, which gives it a sturdy backbone and a riveting and laser-like focus. It’s wonderfully balanced, with a tension between a subtle creamy minerality and invigorating finish. Lovely to drink now, it was even more expressive the next night after sitting open in the fridge, which bodes well for development and even more complexity as it ages over the next few years. But, my bet is that it will not last that long in your cellar. Oh, and by the way, did you note the price? With current pricing and tariffs taken into account, this is an exceptional bargain.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020

Chateau de Rully, Rully (Burgundy, France) Domaine Rodet "Comte de Ternay" 2003 ($28, USA Wine Imports): An immensely pleasurable white Burgundy, lush on the palate and full flavored with nutty, toasty elements layered over rich, ripe fruit. 92 Marguerite Thomas Aug 22, 2006

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France) 2018 ($27):

Consumers can safely select virtually any wine from Drouhin, another top-tier Burgundy producer. Indeed, I could include their Bourgogne Blanc “Laforet,” or their Mâcon-Villages, both of which typically retail for less than $20 a bottle, but I chose their Rully, from a village in the Côte Chalonnaise. Whites from Rully (“roo-e”) can be angular, but not Drouhin’s 2018 (remember producer, producer, producer). The ripeness of the vintage added depth to its cutting edginess. It punches far above its weight class.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2020

Domaine de la Folie, Rully (Burgundy, France) Clos St. Jacques 2004 ($35, Vintage '59 Imports): This remarkable overachiever from Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise performs like a top wine from the classified growths in Puligny or Chassagne. With terrific aromatics featuring notes of hazelnuts, toast, woodsmoke and light vanilla on a foundation of baked apple fruit, this is a complex, classy, beautifully balanced winner. 91 Michael Franz Oct 31, 2006

Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011 ($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family. Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years. The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines -- their average age is 40-45 years. The 2011, which is quite big and creamy for a village wine from Rully, loses none of the region's characteristic stony minerality. It’s a terrific white Burgundy.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2013

Domaine Marc Morey, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($25, Robert Katcher Selections):

This wine caught my attention at Island Creek Oyster Bar (an excellent Boston restaurant with an eclectic wine list) because I was unaware that Marc Morey, a top producer based in Chassagne-Montrachet, owned vineyards in Rully (a lesser known village in the Côte Chalonnaise). Rully is a fine locale for authentic and affordable white Burgundy, especially in a vintage that produced ripe wines, such as 2012. With this wine, Morey has combined the richness of the vintage with the verve characteristic of the wines from Rully. It has enough weight and vivacity to accompany sturdy seafood dishes.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2015

Domaine Michel Juillot, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Les Thivaux” 2015 ($26, Weygandt-Metzler):

With superb balance, a wisp of oak, and long, evolving fruit and spice flavors, this is white Burgundy for the 99% -- those of us who blanch at spending three figures for a bottle of young white wine. It provides further evidence that excellent value can be found in Burgundy below the Côte d’Or -- in the Mâconnais and Challonnaise.
91 Paul Lukacs Aug 29, 2017

Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Consumers who complain about the high price of Burgundy (count me in, by the way) need to run out and buy this wine. Rully, one of the five appellations within the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to some terrific white wines, made, as in the case with all white Burgundy, from Chardonnay. Here Chardonnay comes across as stony and firm, but not austere or hard. Drouhin consistently makes a wonderful white Rully. The 2013 conveys a hint of white flowers followed by a precise, cutting and clean mineral aspect. It’s a fabulous bargain for what it delivers -- and a perfect way to elevate a take-out rotisserie chicken.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 29, 2015

Domaine Chanzy, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($20): Rully, a lesser known village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is hit or miss for white wines. They can be overly crisp bordering on austere and mineraly with balanced energizing acidity. This one from Domaine Chanzy is definitely a hit and falls well into the latter category. Unusually rich for Rully, its bright citrus notes extend the finish and refresh the palate. Those looking for opulent New World styled Chardonnay will be disappointed. Those looking for authentic white Burgundy will smile. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2012

Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($21): The town of Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the Côte d’Or is a sleeper as a source for well priced white and red Burgundy, especially in 2012, a vintage that was short on quantity, but long on quality. Drouhin combines Chardonnay from their vineyards with fruit from a few growers to produce this wine that combines the firm stoniness characteristic of the Côte Chalonnaise with a captivating creaminess. Firm, yet not austere, it has great precision and length. It’s a far more sophisticated Chardonnay-based wine than the price suggests.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013

Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2004 ($17, Dreyfus, Ashby): What a delightful, good-value white Burgundy! Drouhin's 2004 Rully is lively and spicy, with a nice earthy component. True to its terroir. Perfect for drinking now; especially fine with seafood. 90 Ed McCarthy Oct 10, 2006

Domaine de la Folie, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Clos la Folie” 2010 ($33, Vintage ’59 Imports): This domaine’s Clos la Folie isn’t a premier cru site like its Clos St. Jacques, and though the distinction is shown in the relative merits of the wines in almost every vintage, the quality of growing and winemaking here keeps the gap fairly small. This shows delicious, medium-bodied fruit with very light touches of oak and a nice mineral edge to the finish. 89 Michael Franz Jan 29, 2013

Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($20, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This is a terrific achievement with Chardonnay from Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise village of Rully. It shows lovely aromatics featuring notes of baked apple and moderately ripe peach, along with very subtle spicy oak notes. There is also abundant minerality in both the aromas and flavors, and they are the real key to the success of this wine, which could be mistaken for a top village wine from Puligny or Chassagne, which is an impressive accomplishment. 89 Michael Franz Feb 12, 2008

Maison Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($20, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Drouhin’s Rully makes a wonderful comparison with their 2009 St. Véran (also reviewed this week) and provide vivid demonstration why the French eschew grape names on their label. These two wines are both made entirely from Chardonnay by the same team. Rully, a tiny village in the Côte Chalonnaise is no more than 50 miles from St. Véran, slightly further south. But the wines couldn’t be more different. The Rully is sleek, linear and lemony as opposed to the creamier and riper St. Véran. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2011

Vincent Girardin, Rully (Burgundy, France) Vielles Vignes 2005 ($25, Vineyard Brands): This young white Burgundy from the Côte Chalonnaise seems predictably tight and unyielding at first sip. With time in the glass, though, it opens to express lively, apple-fresh flavors, buttressed by refreshing acidity and a flinty finish. The wine should age gracefully and surely will become more nuanced with a few years of bottle age. But it's delicious now. If you open it, I'd advise decanting it so as to allow it to open as quickly as possible. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 13, 2007

Jacques Dury, Rully (Burgundy, France) “La Chaume” 2006 ($27, VOS Selections): With prices of white Burgundy skyrocketing, it's time to leave the Côte d'Or and explore the lesser known villages, such as Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise, where Chardonnay thrives. Although not from a premier cru vineyard, Dury's La Chaume has charming creamy elements buttressed by sufficient acidity to keep it vibrant throughout a meal. A soft and round white Burgundy, it will best consumed over the next year, which makes it perfect for this summer's seafood. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 1, 2008

Domaine de la Folie, Rully (Burgundy, France) Clos la Folie 2004 ($21, Vintage '59 Imports):

Subtle but satisfying, this fresh, pure rendering of Chardonnay offers very nice fruit accented with light touches of minerals and spices. Medium-bodied and restrained, it should pair nicely with an exceptionally broad range of foods. 87 Michael Franz Oct 31, 2006

Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, Rully 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Molesme 2021 ($65):

Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, grandson of the founder of the estate, took it over in 2000 when he was just 20 years old. My first and only experience with their wines — it certainly will not be my last — was at a tiny restaurant in Cluny, in southern Burgundy. Once again, a crisp lively white with good depth accented a dish that should call for a red — a hearty stuffed leg of guinea fowl. Rully, a top village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is rapidly becoming a fine source of both red and white Burgundy as prices of Côte d’Or wines often now have three figures. Ponsot’s vibrant Rully delivers a seamless combination of citrus-infused fruitiness buttressed by stony firmness. Its riveting profile was the perfect foil for the gamey bird, but it would be equally enjoyable with grilled swordfish.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024

Jean-Marc Boillot, Rully 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Meix Cadot 2004 ($24, Vineyard Brands): Although no longer available at the wholesale level, this terrific wine is still on retailers' shelves and worth the search. Jean-Marc Boillot, like many excellent Burgundy producers, makes wines from grapes grown in his vineyards and from those he purchases from growers. He made this one from a grower's grapes in Rully, one of Burgundy's less well-known towns in the Côte Chalônnaise. It is an outstanding value and is another example of how great 2004 was for white Burgundy. A vibrant citric edge, characteristic of 2004 white Burgundies, supports and complements the stony elements and buttery nuances in this full-bodied, nicely textured wine. Its price reflects its Côte Chalônnaise origin, but its taste suggests Côte d'Or. 93 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2007

Vincent Girardin, Rully 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cloux 2005 ($25, Vineyard Brands):

The combination of a weak dollar and the great reputation of the 2005 vintage in Burgundy means that consumers must look to lesser-known villages in that region for wines that won't break the bank. Rully, slightly to the south of the Côte d'Or in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a good place to start. Girardin has fashioned a beautifully balanced wine whose lush fruit is complemented by a touch of oak and nuances of minerality. It has the sophistication of Côte d'Or Burgundy at a Côte Chalonnaise price. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2008

Vincent Girardin, Rully 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cloux 2005 ($29, Vineyard Brands): Quite rich, with full fruit flavors and hints of minerals and wet stones in the bouquet, this wine is very young, and definitely will improve by becoming more nuanced and complex with time in the cellar. Yet even now it tastes delicious, a testament to the very successful 2005 vintage. As an added bonus, it's fairly priced, especially given the current exchange rate. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 15, 2008

Vincent Girardin, Rully 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cloux 2005 ($29, Vineyard Brands): Perfectly pleasant but rather shy in aroma and flavor, this wine may need more time to unravel complexities from bottle bouquet. Soft fruit recalls apples and autumn pears, and thankfully the oak is very subtle, in keeping with the character of the fruit. 83 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2007

Domaine de la Folie, Rully 1er Cru Monopole (Burgundy, France) Clos St. Jacques 2010 ($47, Vintage ’59 Imports): The Côte Chalonnaise can be a source of excellent wines at affordable

prices (by Burgundian standards), and I’ve been an admirer of this domaine’s whites and reds for more than a decade. This lovely white shows generous flavors and full ripeness, but backs them up with lots of zesty acidity and tasteful tinges of toast and spices from oak. Mineral notes are quite prominent in the finish, which is impressively persistent. 91 Michael Franz Jan 29, 2013

Domaine Dureuil-Janthial, Rully Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Maizières” 2007 ($30): Rully, a small town off the beaten path in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a good locale for honest well-priced white Burgundy. This Chardonnay-based wine has quintessential Rully character with its lime-tinged crispness and sleekness. By no means an opulent style of wine--not at all in the New World chardonnay tradition--it does have sufficient ripeness to carry the acidity inherent to the 2007 vintage. This vivacious wine is easy to recommend to accompany grilled fish, sushi or shellfish. 88 Michael Apstein May 11, 2010

Olivier Leflaive, Rully Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cloux 2014 ($30, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The white Burgundies from the 2014 vintage are stunning -- the best since the grand 2010 vintage. Here’s just another example. The white wines from Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise can be very appealing because they convey an underlying stoniness. In 2014 Leflaive’s Les Cloux has just a hint more ripeness than usual without losing any of its verve and vivacity. In short, it’s a fabulously energetic Chardonnay-based white Burgundy.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 5, 2016

Domaine de la Folie, Rully Premier Cru Blanc (Burgundy, France) Clos St. Jacques 2014 ($49, Vintage '59 Imports): Savvy buyers of Burgundy know that the only way to be able to enjoy excellent wines at less-than-painful prices is to seek out the very best

producers from less famous villages and then go with top vintages. This wine checks off all three of these criteria, offering a rare opportunity to taste the amazing character of 2014 white Burgundies for under $50. Rully is located in the Côte Chalonnaise, just to the south of the Côte de Beaune, and though it is true that only the very best of its growing sites can compete with the likes of Puligny- or Chassagne-Montrachet, the walled Clos St. Jacques vineyard (solely-owned by Folie) is certainly among them. I've tasted multiple vintages of this wine, but none that were up to this terrific 2014, which shows essentially perfect balance between fruit and acidity, seeming generous and fresh at once. It is also very detailed and layered, thanks to the interplay of prominent minerality and subtle oak notes recalling roasted nuts, toast and spices. Already indisputably terrific, this will become even more complex during the next few years, but should retain its freshness over that span due to its exceptionally energetic acidity.
93 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2017

Vincent Girardin, Saint Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) "Les Murgers de Dents de Chiens" 2005 ($37, Vineyard Brands): This is a very good wine and a real deal in the context of Burgundy prices from the outstanding 2005 vintage. It is medium-bodied, with solid fruit showing real concentration and lots of wood that is well balanced, along with mineral and hazelnut nuances that mark this as top-class white Burgundy at a remarkably reasonable price. 89 Michael Franz Oct 16, 2007

Jean Claude Boisset, Saint Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2011 ($45, Boisset USA): Boisset, a négociant known for bulk wines, has reinvented itself over the last decade by reducing production dramatically and focusing on quality instead of quantity. It’s been a dramatic and welcome transformation. Under the guidance of winemaker Gregory Patriat, they have produced this stylish St. Aubin that reminds us that this sleepy village can be the source of solid white Burgundy at more reasonable prices than wines from the more famous Côte d’Or villages. Forward and lush, it has the right balance of fruit and minerality. It is equally appealing by itself as on the dinner table. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 15, 2013

Domaine Goisot, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) Sauvignon Blanc “Corps de Garde” 2011 ($20, International Fine Wines): Saint Bris is tiny appellation caught in the middle between Burgundy and the Loire, both geographically and stylistically. Located in far northern Burgundy, a stone’s throw west of Chablis, the grape is the very non Burgundian Sauvignon Blanc of Sancerre. Goisot, undoubtedly the finest producer in the appellation, makes a stunning array of wines, combining the best aspects of the two regions. This one, labeled Corps de Garde, has the captivating and unique minerality of Chablis coupled with the racy verve of Sauvignon. Long and precise, it’s a masterful wine and a great value.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Goisot, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) Sauvignon Blanc “Exogyra Virgula” 2014 ($19): Though Saint Bris, an obscure part of Burgundy adjacent to Chablis, shares the same Kimmeridgian limestone as that famous appellation, it must use Sauvignon Blanc -- not Chardonnay -- for its wines. Grape variety not withstanding, the Goisot family works magic at their domaine. Their Exogyra Virgula, named for the oyster shells in the soil, is riveting and cutting. Reflecting the soil, it delivers a bright minerality, rather than a grassy herbaceousness. It’s a bargain, so buy it by the case for this summer.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2016

Simonnet-Febvre, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($12, Louis Latour USA):

Though the appellation is just Saint Bris, the wines are often referred to as Sauvignon St. Bris, incorporating the name of the grape into the appellation. Saint Bris, located just southwest of Chablis, is an anomaly in Burgundy because it is the only area where Sauvignon Blanc is allowed, indeed, required. The variety makes sense since the area is close to, and has similar soil as, Pouilly sur Loire and Sancerre where Sauvignon Blanc thrives. Simonnet-Febrve, a top-notch Chablis producer, made a zingy lime-tinged version that is impossible to resist. Crisp and cutting, drink it with anything from steamed clams dipped in butter to spicy sushi. It’s steely and a steal. Buy it by the case.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2016

Simonnet-Fèbvre, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) Sauvignon 2009 ($11, Louis Latour USA): Saint Bris is an unusual appellation located just west of Chablis. Still geographically in Burgundy, it uses the Sauvignon Blanc grape like Sancerre, its kindred appellation further to the west. This rendition, a zippy wine, has a pleasant combination of grassiness (from the grape) and minerality (from the area). Not as complex or long as a Sancerre, it still delivers more than just herbaceous pungency. Its vivacity and raciness makes it a good choice this summer. Its price makes buying it by the case a good idea. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2011

Château de Beauregard, Saint Veran (Burgundy, France) "En Faux" 2005 ($28, Ex-Cellars): Saint Veran, an area bordering Pouilly-Fuissé, is a good source of Chardonnay-based wines. This very appealing one provides green-apple flavors with a dollop of creaminess. Direct and overt, it also shows excellent acidity that gives it a pleasant lift. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Roger Lassarat, Saint Véran (Burgundy, France) Le Cras 2012 ($30, Martin Scott): The prices of white Burgundy from the Côte d’Or have put those wines out of reach for most of us, which means those looking for the distinctive expression of Chardonnay from Burgundy must look elsewhere. Fortunately, there are talented growers “elsewhere” making wines that out perform their appellation. Take Roger Lassaret, for example. He makes a variety of stunning single vineyard wines from Saint Véran and Pouilly Fuissé that highlight the diversity of terroirs in those appellations. This one, from the Le Cras vineyard in Saint Véran, combines a firm stoniness with seductive creaminess. Its astounding length reinforces its quality.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2016

Maison Louis Latour, Saint Véran (Burgundy, France) “Les Deux Moulins” 2020 ($35, Louis Latour, USA):

The Saint Véran appellation abuts Pouilly-Fuissé and, unsurprisingly, the wines are similar. Though when tasting the same producer’s Saint Véran next to their Pouilly-Fuissé, the latter always comes away the winner, at least until you see the prices. Vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé have just been granted premier cru status and that has resulted in a price increase even for the non-premier cru wines. So, expect to see a lot more Saint Véran on the market to fill the price void. Latour’s is an excellent place to start to explore this appellation. As much as I liked Latour Mâcon-Lugny, their Saint Véran just has more elegance and finesse to accompany its depth and vivacity. You and you banker will decide what to drink this summer.
91 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023

Château de Beauregard, Saint Véran (Burgundy, France) “Classique” 2005 ($22, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): Similar to the adjacent Cote Chalonnaise, the Cote Mâconnais made especially noteworthy white wines in 2005. Although the prices for Pouilly-Fuissé, the most famous appellation in the Mâconnais, have risen considerably with this vintage, good buys in neighboring appellations, such as Château de Beauregard's Saint-Véran, remain. This wine delivers richness, a touch of minerality and a lemon-cream like impression, all balanced by lively acidity. IThis is more complex and considerably longer than many examples of St. Véran. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 29, 2008

Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Saint-Aubin (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2017 ($30):

Saint-Aubin, lying behind the famous white wine villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet with their Grand Cru vineyards, is off the beaten tract, which means consumers can find value. Prices for Premier Cru Saint-Aubin have climbed dramatically as consumers have caught on, but bargains still exist for village wines, even from a top producer like Langoureau. This village Saint-Aubin displays lovely roundness buttressed by a citrus vigor.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2020

Roux Pere et Fils, Saint-Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2008 ($39, Wine Warehouse): Aged for 12 months in mostly once-used oak barrels, this is a lovely wine with a deep complex layered nose of apple and spice that lead to full fruit supported by brisk acidity. It has length, structure and fruit in good balance, everything you want in a very good Chardonnay. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Henri Prudhon et Fils, Saint-Aubin (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2008 ($36, Rosenthal Wine Merchant): This tasty Chardonnay saw only 12 months in oak, 20% new, allowing the minerality of the fruit to shine. The color is a brilliant medium gold, with forward green apple and mineral aromas, balanced fruit and acidity with subtle oak notes. This wine is a good example of the charm available from Saint-Aubin. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Marc Colin, Saint-Aubin (Burgundy, France) 1er Cru "Le Charmois" 2004 ($42, Shipped by Jeanne-Marie de Champs; various US importers): A rich rendition, this white Burgundy tastes first of ripe Chardonnay fruit, with secondary mineral and spice notes in the finish that add complexity and hence spur interest. The fruit flavors are very forward, making it a French wine that a New World Chardonnay drinker will be sure to like. 89 Paul Lukacs Aug 15, 2006

Roux Pere et Fils, Saint-Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Cortons 2008 ($40, Wine Warehouse): Aged for 12 months in oak, 35% new, the wine shows ripe baking apple notes combined with traces of honey. The flavors are layered with sweet fruit, spice and a subtle minerality. This is a Chardonnay of good length and structure. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Domaine Jean Claude Bachelet et Fils, Saint-Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Charmois 2007 ($39, Elite Wine and Wine Warehouse): Les Charmois vines average in age from 30 to 60 years, giving this wine depth and complexity. The color is a medium-deep gold and the aromas are perfumed with citrus, mineral and ripe pear. The flavors are crisp, fruity and have good length through the finish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 23, 2010

Domaine Pierre Morey, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 2006 ($55): The beauty of Saint-Aubin is its accessibility. When I'm opening a young premier cru from one of the big three villages -- Meursault, Chassagne or Puligny -- I always feel as though I'm cheating mother nature as well as myself, because those wines tend to go through a miraculous transformation as they age, showing more nuance and complexity. Saint-Aubin is always ready to drink when young, usually exhibiting more flesh and weight on the palate than the more sought-after white Burgundies of the Cote d'Or. So it is with this delicious and lovely expression of premier cru Chardonnay from this underrated village. It shows more of a floral note than minerality, which is typical, and pleasing aromas of yellow citrus, brioche and baked apple. And given that it's from the iconic Pierre Morey, I wouldn't bet against its ability to improve in the cellar over the next five years. 91 Robert Whitley Sep 9, 2008

Domaine Marc Colin et Fils, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Sur le Sentier du Clou 2013 ($58):

Domaine Marc Colin, now run by his children, Damien, Joseph and Caroline, is a star producer in Burgundy, in general and in St. Aubin, in particular. The domaine produces eight different--and distinct--premier crus from St. Aubin, a village that is slightly off the beaten track but lies adjacent to Chassagne Montrachet. This 2013 Premier Cru has richness balanced beautifully by a laser-like bolt of acidity. A slight toastiness adds to the overall enjoyment. The brilliant combination of creamy ripeness and verve makes it easy to recommend for consumption now and over the next 5 years.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2015

Morey-Blanc, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($45, Wilson Daniels): Pierre Morey is one of the finest winemakers in Burgundy. He retired from the position of winemaker at Domain Leflaive in 2008 after 20 years there to concentrate on his domaine and Morey-Blanc, a small négociant firm he runs with his daughter. Saint-Aubin is a bit off the beaten track in the Côte d’Or, but is a good place to find less expensive, but fine, white wines, like this one. Not from a specific vineyard, it’s a blend of wines from several Premier Cru vineyards within the village. It has sufficient body to balance the acidity of the vintage, which itself amplifies the minerality in the finish. A subtle creaminess adds allure. 89 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011

Simonnet-Febvre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) Sauvignon 2020 ($17, Louis Latour, USA):

Saint-Bris is an odd-ball appellation in northern Burgundy near Chablis that requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay. Saint-Bris sits on the same Kimmerigdian limestone as Chablis, yet the microclimate favors Sauvignon over Chardonnay. Since Sancerre is barely 60 miles to the west, it’s easy to understand how Sauvignon could thrive here. And it does. Many top Chablis makers, like Simonnet-Febvre, make one. Their 2020 is cutting and lively, just as it should be, conveying bright mineral flavors couple with zesty acidity. This refreshing wine is ideal for current consumption this summer.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2022

Simonnet-Febvre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($12, Louis Latour USA): A mere $12 delivers a lot of charm and pleasurable sipping with this snappy little French white wine. Along with fresh green leaf and citrus notes you can almost taste the icy, stainless steel tanks in which the wine was fermented. Drink on its own or serve it with light, simple foods.
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 25, 2014

William Fevre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2018 ($25, Maison Marques et Domaines):

Saint-Bris, formerly known as Sauvignon de Saint Bris before it was elevated to appellation d’origine controllée (AOC) status, is curious and unique in Burgundy. Located in the far north, near Chablis and covering a mere 200 acres, it requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay, for its wines. A quick look at the map might explain why. It is barely 80 miles from Sancerre, home to Sauvignon Blanc-based wines. Producers insist that the same Kimmeridgian limestone of the nearby Chablis area imparts a lovely mineral component to the wine. That is certainly apparent is this one from William Fevre, one of Chablis’ top producers. They have crafted a stunning example of Saint-Bris. Tightly wound, it delivers its cutting stony character after sitting in the glass for 15 minutes. A subtle bite of Sauvignon Blanc reminds you of the grape, but the overall impression is one of minerals, not grassiness.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2019

Simonnet-Febvre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($20):

Simonnet-Febvre, another superb Chablis producer, crafts a consistently balanced Saint-Bris. The initial whiff screams Sauvignon Blanc, but amazingly, within minutes, aromas and then flavors of wet stone appear. Clean and cutting, this edgy wine displays plenty of depth. Where are the steamed clams?
89 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2019

Domaine de Bellene, Saint-Romain (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2011 ($35, Loosen Bros. USA): This is a wicked good wine from Nicolas Potel, showing very classy, pure, energetic Chardonnay fruit that never yields to the ample dose of high-class oak to which it was treated. Light spice and smoke notes from the wood are very appealing, and a bit of grip in the finish from wood tannins poses no problem thanks to the wine’s depth of flavor. That depth wasn’t purchased at the cost of any heaviness, and indeed the overall profile of the wine is light and nimble, with lots of little accents. Terrific juice from an often-overlooked village in the Côte de Beaune.
92 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2014

Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Veran (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($15, Dreyfus-Ashby): Further proof that 2005 is a special vintage in Burgundy, this Saint-

Veran tastes sumptuous, with plenty of apple and citrus fruit, and subtle but exciting secondary flavors. The prices for top 2005 Burgundies from the Cote d'Or seem shocking. Happily, Mother Nature shined on the entire region that year, meaning that values still can be found in wines like this. 90 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Merlin de Bourgogne, Saint-Veran (Burgundy, France) Le Grand Bussiere 2007 ($30, Ideal Wine & Spirits): This intriguing wine smelled like roses and lychee, an unusual combination for Chardonnay, but very pleasant. The floral notes carried over into the flavors, now combined with subtle oak and a trace of spice. It has good texture and acidity, as well as a pleasant maturity without seeming as though the wine was about to live a short life. A testament to the aging potential of this unique Chardonnay was an excellent 2002 Le Grand Bussiere tasted in the cellar. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Merlin de Bourgogne, Saint-Veran (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($20, Ideal Wine & Spirits): This fruity Chardonnay was fermented entirely in barrels, 15% new. Although the nose was a little closed in, there were lovely floral and mineral notes that carried over to the flavors. It has texture, fruit and length without too much oak. This nicely moderated style shows that Chardonnay can be a lovely wine when it isn’t over oaked. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Veran (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($20, Dreyfus Ashby): This excellent vintage is the perfect spot for the less expensive village wines of Burgundy, particularly the white Burgundies. The Saint-Veran is lovely -- meaning restrained, yet with plenty of personality and fresh acidity. The aromas of baked apple and ripe pear have good intensity of flavor with excellent persistence in the mouth. 88 Robert Whitley Jun 20, 2006

Loron & Fils, Saint-Veran (Burgundy, France) Chateau de la Balmondiere 2008 ($26, David Bowler Wines): Ch. de la Balmondiere is an eight-acre estate in Saint-Veran. The wine was tank fermented and aged in oak barrels. It has a light gold color, ripe, almost tropical fruit nose with spicy back notes. The textured flavors carry good fruit, crisp acidity and the wine finishes with good length. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Loron & Fils, Saint-Veran (Burgundy, France) Les Ombrelles 2008 ($23, David Bowler Wines): Loron & Fils is a large merchant and vineyard owner, specializing in Beaujolais, but making other wines of the region. Ombrelles is a small white flower found in the vineyard. This Chardonnay has a very pale golden color, medium citrus and mineral aromatics, brisk acidity, light flavors and a medium brisk finish. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 23, 2010

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Veran (Burgundy, France) 2005 ($17, Dreyfus Ashbey): In a good vintage, such as 2005, the white Burgundies of the Saint-Veran commune are generally an excellent value. Drouhin calls this wine a 'poor man's Pouilly Fuisse' but there is nothing meager about this vintage, which offers a rich, fleshy mouthfeel, generous aromas of white peach and honeysuckle and a pleasingly long finish. 87 Robert Whitley Oct 24, 2006

Domaine Merlin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) Le Grand Bussière 2022 ($33):

Despite the location of the vineyard, Le Grand Bussière, in the village of Fuissé, the appellation is Saint-Véran because Fuissé (the village) spans two appellations, Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran. (Who ever said that Burgundy was simple to understand?) This edgy Saint-Véran, with its cutting stone-y quality, shows why that appellation ranks above Mâcon in prestige. The lengthy finish in this sophisticated white Burgundy is particularly beguiling.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024

Maison Auvigue, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) “Chênes” 2022 ($35):

Saint-Véran, which lies adjacent to Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais, lies between single village Mâcon wines, like Mâcon-Azé, and Pouilly-Fuissé in the appellation hierarchy. That is not to say you can’t find a Mâcon-Azé that is more stylish and enjoyable than a Saint-Véran, nor does it mean that every Pouilly-Fuissé is superior to every Saint-Véran. In my mind, producer is always more important than appellation, which is why I keep recommending wines from Auvigue, a consistently top-notch producer in the Mâconnais. This wine, a blend of many plots within the town of Dabayé, is labeled Chênes (literally, oak) because it has been aged in old oak barrels, which adds a touch of complexity without intruding. In keeping with the hierarchal layering, it delivers more depth and finesse than Auvigue’s Macon wine but has less punch than their superb Pouilly-Fuissé. As with all Auvigue’s 2022s, the racy finish keeps you coming back for more. Time to discuss your purchases with your banker.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024

Auvigue, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($18): Consumers should snap up as many 2014 white Burgundies as they can. It’s a great vintage across appellations, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. And it’s in the south of Burgundy where you really find bargains in 2014. In the hands of a super-star producer, such as Auvigue, wines from less prestigious appellations, such as this one from Saint-Véran, over deliver for the price. You’d be hard pressed to find a more satisfying Chardonnay-based wine for $18. Crisp, with a hint of creaminess, it has more finesse and length than you’d expect. Buy it by the case because the energy of the 2014 vintage will allow it to develop over the next few years.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017

Daniel et Martine Barraud, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) “Les Pommards” 2007 ($30, Skurnik): The Saint-Véran appellation surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé and lies between it and the Mâcon-Village appellation in prestige. Many Pouilly-Fuissé producers, such as Daniel et Martin Barraud, own vineyards in Saint-Véran. Les Pommards--not to be confused with the Côte d’Or town--is a vineyard within Saint-Véran. Similar to their Pouilly-Fuissé (reviewed previously), Barraud’s Saint-Veran exhibits considerable class. A generous creamy component complements the mineral-tinged flavors. Sufficient ripeness balances the tangy acidity common to the vintage. 90 Michael Apstein May 11, 2010

Jean-Paul Paquet, Saint-Véran (Mâcon, Burgundy) Domaine de Fussiacus 2007 ($21, Elite Wines Imports): Here is a truly elegant example of southern white Burgundy, marked as much by nuanced minerality as forward fruit, and a seductively long finish. Both in the bouquet and on the palate, the wine proves multi-layered and compellingly complex, though its subtleties are just that--subtle. Readers looking for a powerhouse white should look elsewhere. But if you want classy sophistication, you'll be delighted. 90 Paul Lukacs May 19, 2009

Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Mâcon, Burgundy) 2007 ($17, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Here is yet further proof that more and more high quality wines with reasonable price tags are coming these days from the Mâconnais region of southern Burgundy. Long home to a veritable ocean of thin, acidic, and often sour white wines, the Mâconnais today is arguably the world's best source of reasonably-priced Chardonnay. Good examples, like this one, taste of autumn fruit (crisp apples and pears), with wood playing a supporting role (if on stage at all), and a streak of stony minerality that provides interest and intrigue. No, this wine does not taste like Montrachet. But it also doesn't taste like all the over-oaked plonk made with Chardonnay at so many New World wineries. And it only costs $17. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 24, 2009

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2015 ($40):

Comte Lafon, one of Burgundy’s most talented and best producers, is known especially for his white wines from Meursault, which usually sell for triple digits upon release. Here’s a chance to get an insight into his talents with this one from Saint-Véran, appellation bordering Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais part of Burgundy. Opulent, reflecting both Lafon’s style and the vintage, it has enough acidity to keep you coming back throughout the meal. Fortunately, unlike his Meursault, this beauty is for the table, not the cellar.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2019

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2017 ($18, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):

The wines from Saint-Véran, a small appellation surrounding its more famous cousin, Pouilly-Fuissé, can offer exceptional value, especially when produced by someone like Drouhin. Made entirely from Chardonnay, Drouhin’s Saint-Véran combines a lovely stoniness characteristic of the appellation and a hint of creamy seductiveness with the elegant and lacy Drouhin style. A bright finish keeps you coming back. A great bargain!
90 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2018

Maison Louis Jadot, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($16, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): St. Véran, an appellation nestled between Mâcon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuissé in prestige is often a fine value, offering a more sophisticated wine than the former at a price lower than the latter. Jadot’s 2012 is just that. It delivers a little more subtlety and length than their Mâcon-Villages, while maintaining enlivening verve that amplifies its appeal.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2014

Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2013 ($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): St. Véran, a kissing cousin of Pouilly-Fuissé, proves that the Mâconnais is a place for well-priced Chardonnay-based white wines. Drouhin’s 2013 is more overt than their Rully, showing more fruit and fewer stony elements. Its bright lemony zing makes it a good choice for everyday consumption.
89 Michael Apstein Sep 29, 2015

Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($17, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): A very attractive Macon white, showing the crisp fruit and nutty

undertones typical of wines from this southern part of Burgundy. These wines are typically not as rich or sumptuous as those from farther north in the Cote d'Or. Yet they can be deliciously nuanced, with just as much subtlety, and have the great advantage of costing significantly less.
89 Paul Lukacs Apr 14, 2009

Domaine Manciat-Poncet, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) Vieille Vignes 2004 ($20, Robert Kacher Selections): Creamy and lively, this Saint-Véran has good richness-and more complexity than most from this AOC-cut by a cleansing finish. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2006

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Drouhin’s 2008 white Burgundies are stunning, which makes their less prestigious wines, like this one, a great buy. Made entirely from Chardonnay, wines from Saint-Véran, a neighboring appellation to Pouilly-Fuissé, are an excellent alternative to the wines from that more famous appellation. Drouhin’s 2008 Saint-Véran conveys an engaging chalky stoniness buttressed by lively acidity. It finishes with lemon cream notes. It’s an easy wine to recommend. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 3, 2010

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2012 ($21, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Saint-Véran, a small appellation in the southern Mâconnais, has the potential to produce wines that are a touch more concentrated than those from the broader Mâcon-Villages appellation. The ripeness in this wine comes from both the appellation and the vintage. Those who favor riper style of Chardonnay-based wine will gravitate to this one, while those whose taste runs to the racier style should search out Drouhin’s 2013 Macon-Villages or their 2103 Pouilly-Fuissé.
88 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2014

Vins Auvigue, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) "Moulin du Pont" 2015 ($20, Cape Classics):

This is a Burgundian Chardonnay that meets New World wine lovers halfway, on account of the very warm growing season in 2015. The wine shows medium-plus body, with more richness and notably lower acidity than in 2014. However, delicious mineral tinges in the finish make it clear that this is still a fine white Burgundy, one well suited to a wide range of fish dishes or relatively light preparations of chicken.
88 Michael Franz Nov 28, 2017

Domaine Potel, Santenay Blanc (Burgundy, France) Les Charmes Dessus 2007 ($26, Frederick Wildman): Nicolas Potel is a new breed of young, small négociants who have recently expanded his domaine, which previously was limited to a small parcel of vines for Bourgogne Rouge, to complement the négociant side of the business. Santenay, a less prestigious and less well-known village in the Cote de Beaune, produces mostly red wines. The white wines from this village, while enjoyable and well priced, are frequently a little rustic and clunky. Not Potel's. Maybe because he grows only organic grapes in his domaine's vineyards or perhaps he's just a careful and talented winemaker, but this white Santenay has unusual class--especially for a village wine--to complement its ripe earthiness and vibrant acidity. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 31, 2009

Goisot, Sauvignon de Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) "Exogyra Virgula" 2011 ($20, Polaner): Sauvignon de Saint-Bris, a small appellation between Chablis and Sancerre, is worth knowing because the wines are like a cross between those two more famous areas. The grape is Sauvignon Blanc as in Sancerre, but the soil is Kimmeridgian limestone as in Chablis. Add perhaps the best producer in the appellation and you get a distinctive and refreshing wine. This one has the attractive bite of Sauvignon, the minerality of the region and vibrant acidity that keeps it fresh. It would be an ideal choice for shellfish. Indeed, the name of the wine, Exogyra Virgula, reflects the tiny fossilized shells found in the limestone soil.
89 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013

Simonnet-Fèbvre, Sauvignon de Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($12, Louis Latour USA): Saint-Bris is a tiny appellation near Chablis that bridges Burgundy and the Loire. The soil is Kimmeridgian limestone, like Chablis, but the proscribed grape is Sauvignon Blanc, the one used in the eastern Loire Valley appellations of Sancerre, Pouilly Fuissé and Quincy. This one is a zippy, every day kind of wine, but with more character than you’d expect. Piercing with riveting acidity, it’s quite versatile, a good choice for swordfish with a caper butter sauce and take-out Thai food. And it’s very well priced because few have heard of the appellation. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

Domaine Potel, Savigny-lès Beaune Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($30, Wildman): Nicolas Potel established his négociant firm in 1997 after the death of his father, Gerard, who ran the famous Volnay firm, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or. His négociant wines have been consistently excellent. Over the last few years, Potel has purchased vineyards and has started a small domaine, making wines from his own vineyards. This white Burgundy, made exclusively from Chardonnay grown in his vineyards, is quite classy, with a core of minerality supported by zesty acidity. Its great length and complexity is surprising for a village wine and highlights Potel's considerable talents. 90 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Vincent Girardin, Savigny-Les-Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Les Vermots Dessus” 2005 ($29, Vineyard Brands):

A delicious and fairly-priced white Burgundy, with flavors that echo apples and lemon (maybe lemon curd, as the wine is quite rich and creamy), and that exhibits precise balance. It's very hard to find Cote d'Or white Burgundy from a strong vintage like 2005 at such a reasonable price. Restaurateurs should take note.

Domaine Hubert-Lamy, St. Aubin (Burgundy, France) "La Princée" 2006 ($40, Polaner Selections): This Domaine, based in St. Aubin, an often under appreciated Côte d'Or village nestled between Chassagne and Puligny-Montrachet, made excellent white wines in 2006. Olivier, Hubert's son, joined the Domaine in the 1990s and changed the vines for La Princée, a village wine -- not a Premier Cru -- from Pinot Noir to Chardonnay because he felt the soil was better suited for the white variety. Judging by the 2006, which has both richness and delicacy, it was a smart decision. The restrained use of oak for fermentation and aging allows the beautiful floral and mineral aspect show unimpeded. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2008

Domaine Sylvie and Thomas Morey, St. Aubin (Burgundy, France) 2007 ($43, Louis Dressner Selections): It may be hard to convince consumers to spend more than $40 for a village St. Aubin, but the quality is definitely in the bottle in this case. It has excellent ripeness--sometimes lacking in the 2007 whites, which balances the uplifting acidity. Extraordinary length sets it apart from most village wines and allows it to masquerade as a premier cru. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2008

Alex Gambal, St. Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2011 ($45): The names of Burgundy vineyards are fascinating, often evoking colorful images. This one, one of my favorites, is roughly translated as “the boulders that look like the teeth of the dog.” Alex Gambal’s 2011 from this vineyard is as wonderful as the name. St. Aubin is slightly off the beaten tract in Burgundy, lying behind the three major Côte de Beaune villages for white wine, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault. Les Murgers des Dents de Chien vineyard abuts a premier cru vineyard of Puligny-Montrachet, which helps explain its stony, firm nature that offsets its attractive ripeness. Layered and long, it makes wonder why the wines of St. Aubin are not more well known. Its finesse and focus makes you think it comes from more exalted terroir. In the context of white Burgundy, it’s a fabulous buy.
91 Michael Apstein Oct 15, 2013

Alex Gambal, St. Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Murgers des Dents de Chien 2010 ($50, Schneiders of Capitol Hill): The name of this premier cru vineyard, literally, “the wall of dog’s teeth”, is enough to grab your attention. But it’s what’s in the bottle that keeps it. The 2010 vintage was a great one for both red and white Burgundies. And Gambal’s new winemaker, Geraldine Godot, has made a stunning array of them. This one, from an off the beaten track village behind Chassagne-Montrachet, is a real charmer. It marries a citrus vibrancy with focused slightly creamy minerality and great length. Try it with grilled swordfish or sautéed chicken breasts.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 19, 2013

Sylvain Langoureau, St. Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2020 ($53, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Sylvain Langoureau is one of those excellent producers who has not yet achieved cult status, which is good news for savvy consumers because his wines remain undervalued. Combine his talents with a fantastic vintage for whites and voilà, you have a stunning white wine. Displaying the barest hints of butterscotch, the riveting acidity of the vintage imbues it with tremendous energy. Befitting a young wine, it opens while it sits in the glass, so don’t rush it. Delectable now, its balance and my experience with Langoureau’s wines suggests it has a long life in front of it. I hate to say it, but given the prices of white Burgundy these days, this one is a bargain.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2022

Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de Meix 2008 ($50, Cynthia Hurley Imports): St. Aubin, a tiny village just west of Chassagne-Montrachet and well off the beaten track in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, is home to stylish and terribly under rated white wines. Domaine Lamy is certainly one of the village’s star producers. This Premier Cru has excellent ripeness balanced by nuances of grapefruit rind and a delicate captivating hint of ginger-like spice. The verve and vivacity of the 2008 vintage, a truly exceptional one, especially for whites, amplifies the wine’s grace. It’s a top notch white Burgundy. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

Maison Robert Drouhin, St. Veran (Burgundy, France) 2011 ($16, Dreyfus-Ashby): The 2011 vintage for white Burgundy was a mixed bag with some wines being flabby. Drouhin managed to capture acidity to keep that problem at bay with their lineup. This St. Veran, from an appellation near its more famous neighbor, Pouilly Fuissé, is a stand out at the price. It’s creamy and bright with just enough acidity to keep it lively. Yet, it’s suave enough to enjoy as a glass by itself before dinner. Put a bottle of it on the table at Thanksgiving and your guests will love you.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 29, 2013

Drouhin, St. Véran (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($20): St. Véran, an appellation in the Côte Mâconnais that abuts Pouilly-

Fuissé, its more famous neighbor, is the place to go for value-packed Chardonnay based wines. Though not as expansive--nor as expensive--as Côte d’Or whites, St. Véran is real white Burgundy at a reasonable price. The 2009 vintage was generous to this part of Burgundy. Indeed, the Chardonnay-based wines have a lovely immediately likeable plumpness to them. Drouhin’s style, characterized by elegance and balance, as opposed to overblown wines, suits the vintage very nicely. This St. Véran has a magical combination of stoniness, perky acidity and fruitiness. It’s an ideal choice for the Thanksgiving table. 89 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2011

Maison Drouhin, St. Véran (Burgundy, France) 2009 ($17, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The 2009 vintage is being heralded, rightly so, as a great one in Burgundy, especially for the red wines. The white wines, very good as well because of additional ripeness, afford a golden opportunity to enjoy them sooner than a more structured vintage such as 2008 or 2007. Drouhin’s whites in 2009 were particularly successful because the winemaking team there captured vibrancy. This St. Véran, a neighboring appellation to Pouilly-Fuissé, is consistently a good buy. It delivers a direct creamy ripeness and minerality supported by sufficient acidity to keep it alive throughout a meal. It’s a tremendous bargain. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 15, 2011

Guillemot-Michel, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) “Quintaine” 2014 ($35, Kysela Pere et Fils):

I first drank this wine a few months ago in Paris, at the wonderful seafood restaurant L’Ecailler du Bistrot (a must stop for fish fans). I loved it there and made a note to try to find it back home. Well I did, and the wine is every bit as delicious on this side of the ocean. It’s juicy and fresh, with citrus and apple flavors, wonderful length, and a distinct note of minerality. A beautifully balanced wine, it proves that great Burgundy does not have to come from the Côte d’Or.
94 Paul Lukacs Aug 9, 2016

Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($38, Louis Latour, USA):

Appellations within the Mâconnais, like Viré-Clessé, are the place to go to find affordable, or at least more affordable, white Burgundy. Viré and Clessé, two adjacent villages whose wines previously were labeled as Mâcon-Viré and Mâcon-Clessé, convinced French wine regulators that their wines were distinctive enough to merit their own appellations. In general, all things being equal, wines from Viré-Clessé are just more interesting than those from the broad Mâcon-Villages appellation. Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has made a consistently impressive Viré-Classé. Many cases of past vintages have gone into my cellar. Their racy 2022 continues that tradition. It combines depth with a cutting, chiseled and lengthy finish.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2024

Christophe Cordier, Viré-Clessé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2007 ($32, Robert Kacher Selections): Viré-Clessé is a practically unknown appellation in the Mâconnais region. The wines were sold under the Mâcon-Villages appellation until 1998 when it was granted its own appellation because it had become apparent that the area’s vineyards had the potential for distinctive character. Like the rest of Burgundy in 2007, this appellation was excellent for producers who waited for the Chardonnay to ripen fully. Judging by this wine, Christophe Cordier did exactly that, as it has plenty of flesh to balance the bracing acidity. The complexity and length lent by vieilles vignes (old vines) fruit is abundantly clear. A touch of creamy oak adds allure without swamping the stony nature of the fruit. 91 Michael Apstein Sep 22, 2009

Domaine Sainte-Barbe, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2011 ($26, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Viré-Clessé is a relatively new appellation (1998) that was created from two towns, Viré and Clessé, that were formerly included with the more general Macon-Villages because the wines from those towns were judged to be more distinctive. But the main point to remember is the producer’s name -- Domaine Sainte-Barbe -- because they make a very fine line-up of wines from throughout the Côte Maconnais. In this one, the contribution of old vines, on average 50 years, comes through in an extra dimension of complexity. It’s flinty, smoky and creamy all at once, with invigorating acidity that keeps it fresh.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2013

Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) 2014 ($20, Louis Latour USA):

Viré-Clessé is an under-the-radar appellation in the Mâconnais that was created in the late 1990s from combining two villages, Viré and Clessé, that made distinctive wines that were previously included under the umbrella of Mâcon-Villages. It joins St. Véran, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Loché, and Pouilly-Fuissé as names to remember for high quality Chardonnay-based wines from southern Burgundy. Maison Louis Latour, the well-regarded Beaune-based négociant, produces a terrific Viré-Clessé. Latour’s 2014 Viré-Clessé, from an outstanding vintage for white wines, over delivers for the price. This mid-weight, well-balanced wine combines Chardonnay’s floral and fruity elements with a firm stoniness characteristic of the region. Bright acidity in the finish keeps you coming back for more. Delightful now, I predict it will give enjoyment for years, based on the pleasure I still get from drinking their 2010 Viré-Clessé. Hence, I’d buy it by the case. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2018

Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2010 ($18, Louis Latour USA): Viré-Clessé, a small, 500-acre appellation created only in 1998, was carved out of the Mâcon-Villages appellation because the wines from Viré and Clessé (along with a couple of other towns) had considerably more potential. Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has realized that potential with their 2010 Viré-Clessé. This Chardonnay-based white Burgundy has the stoniness common to the wines of the Mâconnais, but with more persistence and focus than the run-of-the-mill Mâcon-Villages. The 2010, with its vibrancy reflective of the vintage, is particularly appealing, and, I might add, well priced.
89 Michael Apstein Sep 9, 2014

Bollinger, Coteaux Champenois (France) "La Côte aux Enfants" 1999 ($110, Terlato Wines International): The two-acre, very steep Pinot Noir vineyard, La Côte aux Enfants, is in Aÿ, and in very ripe vintages, such as 1999, Bollinger makes a small quantity of still Pinot Noir (appellation, Coteaux Champenois) from this vineyard. Named after the vineyard, the 1999 La Côte aux Enfants is a very unusual Pinot Noir, unlike any Burgundy or New World Pinot I've ever tasted. It is soft and gamy, with ripe tannins combined with high acidity, and no new oak flavors! It is very clean and fresh, and tastes of red fruits, with a touch of woodsiness. It has good length on the palate. And by the way, when is the last time you've tasted a red wine with only 11 percent alcohol? Only 3,925 bottles produced. 90 Ed McCarthy Jan 8, 2008

Deutz, Champagne (France) Rosé "Cuvée William Deutz" 1996 ($150, Maisons, Marques & Domaines): When I first tasted Cuvée William Deutz Rosé (in the 1985 vintage), I decided that this was one of the finest rosé Champagnes being produced; the 1996 does nothing to change my mind. It has aromas of coffee, red fruits, and earth, along with intense red fruit flavors. The 1996 is full, rich, fine, complex, and more powerful than usual, a reflection of the vintage. It shows great length on the palate. Only 1400 cases produced. 97 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Brut Rose NV ($85):

Bruno Paillard is quietly making inroads in the U.S. market with an elegant style that emphasizes subtlety and complexity. His non-vintage brut rose is all of that, beginning with its appearance, a pale pink rose-petal color. On the palate it is bright and clean, with mouth-watering acidity that makes the red fruits sing. It has the structure and oomph to pair with roast fowl or grilled salmon. And its perfectly breathtaking as an aperitif.
94 Robert Whitley Nov 8, 2016

Dom Perignon, Champagne (France) Brut Rose 1996 ($380, Moet-Hennessy USA):

Yes, I know, the price is exorbitant. I guess the people at Moët-Hennessy believe that if Louis Roederer can charge $400 for its Cristal Rosé, they can price DPR at $380, especially in the much-heralded 1996 vintage. Dom Pérignon Rosé, made in relatively small amounts compared to Dom Pérignon white, usually follows the same formula: about 50 percent Pinot Noir, 50 percent Chardonnay, with almost all the grapes coming from grand cru vineyards. The difference is that a small amount of Pinot Noir wine is added to the Rosé, for color. The '96 Dom Pérignon Rosé has a lovely true pink color, is rich and concentrated in flavor - mainly of wild strawberries. Its excellent acidity helps to balance its overt fruitiness. When I spoke to winemaker Richard Geoffroy six months ago in Champagne, he commented that the 1996 vintage was unusual in that the grapes had a high degree of acidity plus extra ripeness -- especially the Pinot Noir! This might explain why the '96 DPR tastes riper than the '96 Dom Pérignon -- the added Pinot Noir wine in the Rosé. Champagne Dom Pérignon is never less than very good, and often great. I think the '96 Dom Pérignon white is great (having tasted it several times, and rating it 96 to 98). Because of its extra ripeness, the '96 Dom Pérignon Rosé is merely quite good, and will not have a super-long lifespan. (By the way, I've spotted '96 Dom Pérignon white in a few stores for as low as $140, a very good deal for this long-lived masterpiece). The '96 DP Rosé would be excellent with lobster, scallops or Asian cuisines. 93 Ed McCarthy Dec 19, 2006

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé 1999 ($80, Moët-Hennessy USA): The 1999 rendition of Cliquot's rosé is more forward than usual, but the house has nonetheless continued its streak of excellent Rosés with this exotically flavored offering. The strawberry and other red fruit flavors from Pinot Noir leap from the glass but are balanced by firm acidity and even a hint of tannin. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Rosé 1996 ($90, Rémy Cointreau USA): Although the 1996 Charles Heidsieck Rosé is made with the same formula as the vintage (except that Pinot Noir wine is added to the rosé), as good as it is-and it is excellent-the 1996 Rosé is not quite in the same league as the smaller-batch 1996 Brut. Perhaps due to a different selection of Pinot Noir? That being said, the powerful, strawberry-scented '96 Charles Heidsieck Rosé is perfect for drinking now, but will age well for another five years. 92 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Rosé 1998 ($80, Frederick Wildman): Moderately powerful and rich, this rosé is perfectly balanced and a delight to drink now. Flavors of strawberries and other red fruits fill the glass while sparkling acidity keeps the wine fresh. Its wonderfully soft and creamy texture brings you back for more. It's a great aperitif with smoked salmon. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006

Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé 2002 ($75, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Rosé Champagnes tend to come in two quite different styles-light and ethereal or full-flavored and deep. This one falls very much in the first camp. Its flavors are seductively reminiscent of strawberries and cream, and it tastes fresh and lively. Because youth and vivacity constitute its principal charm, it will show best if drunk as an aperitif rather than as a dinner companion. 90 Paul Lukacs Dec 25, 2007

Taittinger, Champagne (France) "Prestige Rose" NV ($60, Kobrand):

This lovely, nuanced Rose Champagne is superb as an aperitif, but I also find it and exceptionally good match with first courses, especially any that are seafood or, in particular, salmon-based. Taittinger's Prestige Rose delivers subtle aromas of strawberry and raspberry, elegant bubbles and the structure, finesse and length you would expect from a top Champagne house. 90 Robert Whitley Dec 12, 2006

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($45, Moët Hennessy USA): Veuve Clicquot, a house that surely knows how to market Champagne, has wisely taken advantage of the surge in interest in rosé Champagne by adding a non-vintage rosé to its portfolio while continuing to produce its vintage rosé. The formula for its NV Rosé is the same as for its wildly popular Yellow Label NV Brut, 72 percent black grapes (56 percent of which is Pinot Noir) and 28 percent Chardonnay, but with the addition of Pinot Noir wine for color. Then why do I like their NV Rosé so much better than the Yellow Label? Perhaps its the gorgeous aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries, combined with a delicacy on the palate that I loved. This is another Clicquot success story. 90 Ed McCarthy May 9, 2006

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Rose NV ($48, Moet Hennessy USA): Veuve Clicquot, a house that surely knows how to market Champagne, has wisely taken advantage of the surge in interest in rosé Champagne by adding a non-vintage rosé to its portfolio while continuing to produce its vintage rosé. The formula for its NV Rosé is the same as for its wildly popular Yellow Label NV Brut: 72 percent black grapes (56 percent of which is Pinot Noir) and 28 percent Chardonnay, but with the addition of Pinot Noir wine for color. Then why do I like their NV Rosé so much better than the Yellow Label? Perhaps it's the gorgeous aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries, combined with a delicacy on the palate that I loved. This is another Clicquot success story. 90 Ed McCarthy Dec 26, 2006

Ruinart, Champagne (Champagne, France) Brut Rosé NV ($60, Möet Hennessy USA): Ruinart's Champagnes are in the process of being reintroduced to the USA, and at this point the two wines that are available are in a middle tier. The standard-issue non-vintage brut 'R' is sold in other markets around the world but not here, and the top-of-the-line Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs and Rosé are due to be reintroduced during the winter of '06-'07. This 'premium' brut rosé shows a lot more delicacy and class than most non-vintage competitors, and at a modest markup from that level, looks like a good deal to boot. With subtle red fruit notes and almost no overt yeast, this is an impressively stylish wine. 89 Michael Franz Aug 29, 2006

Champagne Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) Brut "Cristal" 2009 ($225, Maisons Marques & Domaines):

One of the great aspects of Cristal is that there is no such thing as a bad or even mediocre vintage Cristal. Because the Cristal grapes are so good, Cristal rates from very good to sublime. The sublime vintages of the past 30 years are the 1988, 1996, and 2002. Cristal is made from old vines of Grand Cru Pinot Noir (60 percent) and Chardonnay (40 percent) grapes. It is never a “blockbuster” Champagne. Rather it is the most elegant Champagne you can imagine, always with perfect balance. Cristal has the ability to be enjoyed in its youth and also when it matures. I will not forget the 1988 Cristal I enjoyed two years ago. Recently I arranged a tasting of 12 Prestige Cuvées, including many 1996s. The Cristal 2002 was voted first by the group. Cristal is aged in Roederer’s cellars for six years before it is released. Only 400,000 bottles are produced annually (estimated to be one-tenth of Dom Pérignon’s production), Cristal makes up about 11 or 12 percent of Louis Roederer’s sales. The house will not make more Cristal for fear of lowering quality. Since it is in demand worldwide, Cristal is often difficult to find, even in the U.S., its best market (especially in December). And yet, for a Champagne of this quality, it is a bargain (at $225) compared to the other superb Champagne, Krug Clos du Mesnil, at over $900. A sublime vintage of Cristal would rate 100 points. The 2009 is merely excellent.
99 Ed McCarthy Mar 21, 2017

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "Special Cuvée" NV ($81, Vintus):

The Bollinger family established their Champagne house in 1869. They are known for their appreciation of Pinot Noir and their preference for wooden barrels over stainless steel for the first fermentation. The “Special Cuvée” is the winery’s non-vintage brut, of which over 85% are sourced from Grand and Premier Cru vineyards. The cuvée consists of 60% Pinot Noir 15% Meunier, and 25% Chardonnay, which displays a rich golden color with tiny bubbles. It is a rich, creamy, intense wine with flavors of pear and roasted apple with notes of freshly baked brioche. Madame Elisabeth Bollinger expressed her appreciation for the family’s product in in the London Daily Mail in October 1961: "I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and I drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it, unless I’m thirsty."
98 Rebecca Murphy Sep 26, 2023

Krug, Champagne (France) 2000 ($255, LVMH):

Few wines come as close to absolute perfection as this one. This is a profound expression of Pinot and Chardonnay character in the Champenoise style as one is ever likely to encounter. It shows a rich bouquet of red and black cherries with hints of strawberries, lemon, white flowers, cream, butter and toast. The flavors are complete and complex with the cherry and berry fruits enhanced by the lemony freshness and the toasty, yeasty character the Methode Champenoise imparts plus hints of almond, cream and butter. It offers full flavors, rich texture, layered complexity, floral elegance and a long finish. This is a great Champagne that offers remarkable complexity and character. If you are looking for a stellar celebratory beverage, the 2000 vintage Krug will fill the bill.
98 Wayne Belding Dec 8, 2015

Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) “Cristal" Brut 2008 ($280, Maisons, Marques and Domaines):

If you are looking for a Champagne that will seduce you with elegant, ethereal flavors and the tiniest of bubbles I highly recommend Cristal 2008. The nose is a complex blend of delicate citrus, floral, yeasty, chalky aromas. In the mouth, those tiniest of bubbles mingle discretely with pure citrus, green apple fruit with chalky, lightly toasty flavors animated by vibrant acidity. When Louis Roederer inherited the winery in 1833, he set the standard for generations to come by making vineyards the focus for making high-quality wine. Today, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Winemaker and Executive Vice-President of Production says, “We are winegrowers rather than a Champagne House. Wine is crafted in the vineyard. The flavors come from the vineyard, the cellar can only capture the best.” For Cristal, they do not use any vines younger than 25 years because Lécaillon realized that until the vines are at least 25 years old, the roots have not reached the chalk which add a mineral character and finesse to the wine. Lécaillon is also a fanatic about bubbles and uses various techniques to bind the bubbles with the fruit, thus those tiniest of bubbles. According to Lécaillon, “Finesse is the only worthy obsession. Three words describe Cristal: finesse, finesse, finesse.”
98 Rebecca Murphy Nov 17, 2020

Perrier-Jouët, Champagne (France) Rosé “Belle Epoque” 2004 ($300, Pernod Ricard USA):

One of the best pink sparkling wines you'll ever have. It has lovely rose aromas, and you think it's going to be sweet. It leads with smoked strawberries, goes through a fresh strawberry stage and then glides through an extremely long finish, with a richer apricot compote and rose jam mouthfeel before leaving a smoky and slightly salty impression. That savoriness on your lips sends you right back to the glass; it gets more interesting every sip. 98 W. Blake Gray Dec 18, 2012

Taittinger, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut "Comtes de Champagne" 2006 ($199, Kobrand): The 2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2006 is an

astonishing wine--the best Champagne I've tasted in 2017, and certainly one of the best-ever bottlings of this famous wine. It exudes quality and class in every dimension, showing great aromatic complexity, deep and layered flavors, perfect balance of acidity, fruit and yeast notes, and gorgeous mousse that lends energy to the wine but still allows it to seem creamy--which is the hallmark of truly great Chardonnay-based Champagnes. It is a rare wine indeed that can seem both dramatic and restrained at once, but this manages to do exactly that. Priced very close to $200, one would likely need a special occasion to pony up for this, but in this season of Mother's Day, graduations, and Father's Day, you should be able to manage that. A true work of art from Taittinger.
98 Michael Franz May 9, 2017

Bollinger, Champagne (France) “La Grande Année" 2014 ($139, Vintus):

Bollinger’s 2014 is an outstanding wine, filled with paradoxes. Which, of course, is one reason it’s so wonderful. Its power and simultaneous restraint is perplexing. Tightly wound at this stage, its power is still apparent, like a tiger ready to leap. Its seeming austerity is unusual for Bollinger, but it just speaks to its youthfulness. This will not remain austere! Its elegance is beguiling. Its creamy texture is magical. It is one of things that makes this Champagne so alluring. A fine vein of acidity buttresses without a hint of aggressiveness and amplifies the wine’s charm in the finish. This is a Champagne to cellar and then savor.
97 Michael Apstein Apr 12, 2022

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV ($70):

Sourced 100 percent from grand cru vineyards in the Cote des Blancs district of Champagne, this towering blanc de blanc Champagne is the essence of elegance, an accurate expression of the Bruno Paillard style. This multi-vintage blend draws upon 25 vintages of reserve wine going back to 1985. Rich and creamy, at the same time crisp, tense and fresh, with very low dosage (it is classified extra brut) and a delicate mousse. Notes of lemon and brioche dominate. One of the finest Champagnes you can buy for the money.
97 Robert Whitley Dec 18, 2018

Champagne Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($84, Vineyard Brands):

I don’t know what’s been going on at Delamotte recently, but both this wine and the straight NV Brut have been better than ever, and this wine is utterly fantastic. Aromatically, it is super-expressive, with billowing aromas of brioche and baked apples. The flavors provide echoes of the scents, but on the palate, this isn’t billowy at all, but rather taut and focused and linear in energy, with great drive and phenomenally long, symmetrical finish. The mousse is extremely fine in grain but nevertheless quite energetic. In sum, this is a wine with many distinct dimensions, all of which are somehow marvelously proportional in relation to one another. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.
97 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2019

Champagne Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs 2009 ($85, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Although this house is known for its Pinot Noir in its Champagnes, Louis Roederer has always produced excellent blanc de blancs because of its great Chardonnay vineyards in the Côte de Blancs. This Blanc de Blancs is made from the superb Le Mesnil sur Oger and Avize vineyards. It ages for five years in the Roederer cellars. It is an intensely rich Champagne, certainly able to be served throughout dinner. The house thinks so much of its huge Blanc de Blancs that it always serves it after its Rosé and Vintage Brut. The Blanc de Blancs has a long finish, and will age longer than any other Roederer Champagne except Cristal. It will live two decades or more, especially in good vintages. I love this Champagne. In my opinion, it ranks with the top Blanc de Blancs Champagnes being made today.
97 Ed McCarthy Mar 21, 2017

Henriot, Champagne (France) “Cuvée des Enchanteleurs” Brut 1995 ($170, Henriot, Inc.): This is a show-stopping Cuvée de Prestige made from 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir. Amazingly fresh for a 14 year-old

wine, it shows oxidative development but not a trace more than is desirable, and both the fruit and the effervescence remain quite fresh and lively. Rich and deeply flavored and extremely persistent in its finish, this is a thing of beauty that was very skillfully wrought from nearly perfect fruit. Every sniff and sip seems to present another layer of complexity. My WRO colleague Ed McCarthy reports that the soon-to-be-released 1996 vintage of this wine is extraordinary, and since he and I share the (not quite universal) view that 1996 is a surpassingly great vintage for Champagne, the possibility that the 1996 could be even better than this 1995 has already set my mouth to watering. 97 Michael Franz Dec 22, 2009

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Grand Siecle NV ($150):

Laurent-Perrier's Grand Siecle was the first multi-vintage tetes de cuvee Champagne, the inspiration coming from the late Bernard Nonancourt, who ran the prestigious Champagne house from the end of World War II until his death a few years ago. The first Grand Siecle was a cuvee of three great vintages from the 1950s, a model that Laurent-Perrier has followed ever since. It is a monument of a wine, hitting majestic notes at every sip, from the toasty brioche on the nose to the elegant hints of lemon on the palate, to the silky texture that runs through to the splendid finish. This wine has maturity with freshness, remarkable complexity, and a great story behind it.
97 Robert Whitley Mar 25, 2014

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Cuvée Rosé, Brut NV ($80):

The Laurent-Perrier has long been my go-to Rosé Champagne, and nothing with the release of this latest cuvee changes that equation. It is aged five years prior to disgorgement, which allows for the development of complexity and nuance, yet retains a freshness that beguiles. Showing vibrant notes of raspberry, strawberry and red currant, with a fine mousse and uplifting acidity, the Laurent-Perrier always impresses and never disappoints.
97 Robert Whitley Nov 20, 2018

Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) “Phillipe Starck” Brut Nature, Blanc 2012 ($88):

Here’s a wine that is as tightly wound as you might be after this year’s events. It’s going to take quite a while for this to fully resolve, but it’s headed for greatness along with the previous vintages. The collaboration began with the 2006 vintage, bringing a zero dosage wine into the house portfolio for the first time (Brut Zero is enjoying a moment in the sparkling wine world at present, largely thanks to this bottling) and adds a no dosage rosé to the lineup as a partner to this “Blanc.” Carefully selected fruit from limestone rich sections of top vineyards goes into the cuvée, and it delivers soft yeasty notes along with tart lemon and stone mineral aromas. On the palate, it’s presently quite tart and stone driven in flavor, and shows the acidic structure for a slow but brilliant unwinding. This is one of few “birth year” bottles I’d recommend for your progeny’s future college graduation. Phillipe Starck’s trademark minimalist “democratic design” art label slyly winks and lets you know that the art is really inside the bottle. Of course, all this doesn’t mean you can’t open it now.
97 Rich Cook Dec 22, 2020

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage, Brut Rosé 2012 ($85):

Moet’s Grand Vintage Brut Rosé is another beautiful effort from the 2012 vintage. Beautifully balanced and showing a fine mousse, this vintage exhibits delicate notes of strawberry, cherry and citrus. Fresh and clean, it promises to be an exceptional food wine that has the oomph to tackle game birds, grilled salmon or, especially, caviar. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
97 Robert Whitley Jun 11, 2019

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage, Extra Brut 2012 ($75):

In recent vintages, Moet Champagne in general have been going drier within the boundaries of the Brut classification. The 2012 Extra Brut takes the trend to a new level with but 5 grams of residual sugar per liter. This vintage rocks with subtle notes of green apple and citrus, a refined mousse and a long, impressive finish. You can certainly pop the corks now, but I would give this one an additional five years in the cellar, which will increase the "wow" factor exponentially. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
97 Robert Whitley Jun 11, 2019

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage, Brut Rosé 2012 ($85):

Moet’s Grand Vintage Brut Rosé is another beautiful effort from the 2012 vintage. Beautifully balanced and showing a fine mousse, this vintage exhibits delicate notes of strawberry, cherry and citrus. Fresh and clean, it promises to be an exceptional food wine that has the oomph to tackle game birds, grilled salmon or, especially, caviar. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
97 Robert Whitley Oct 1, 2019

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage, Extra Brut 2012 ($75):

In recent vintages, Moet Champagne in general have been going drier within the boundaries of the Brut classification. The 2012 Extra Brut takes the trend to a new level with but 5 grams of residual sugar per liter. This vintage rocks with subtle notes of green apple and citrus, a refined mousse and a long, impressive finish. You can certainly pop the corks now, but I would give this one an additional five years in the cellar, which will increase the "wow" factor exponentially. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
97 Robert Whitley Sep 24, 2019

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage Brut 2006 ($65, Möet Hennessey):

The Grand Vintage series is proving to be a winner for this famed producer. As expected, they express more individual character than the ubiquitous, yet delicious non vintage bottlings, and are priced low for vintage Champagne. This bottling is yeasty, nutty, crisp and dry, with nice apple and pear fruit peeking out subtly. When you need a vintage Champagne, this is a value leader. A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
97 Rich Cook Jun 2, 2015

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut “Grand Vintage” 2008 ($65):

A fantastic value in a vintage Champagne. Brioche, pear and apple aromas come across as vibrant palate flavors, with great acid balance that lightly scours the palate while leaving a fully integrated flavor impression. You can pay a lot more for this kind of class, but I'm in for multiple bottles of this one. A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
97 Rich Cook Jun 6, 2017

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) "Grand Vintage" Brut 2008 ($65):

I scored this 97 points at the Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition earlier this year, and it's humming right along a few months down the road. A ridiculous value in vintage Champagne. Crisp, clean, complex, elegant fizz. A Platinum award winner at the 2017 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
97 Rich Cook Sep 26, 2017

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage Brut Rosè 2008 ($90):

With gentle notes of strawberry and spice, Moet’s 2008 Grand Vintage Brut Rosè is a thoroughly seductive rose Champagne. It shows a note of cola. On the palate the creamy richness is balanced with fresh acidity. A Platinum award-winner at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition.
97 Robert Whitley Sep 27, 2016

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill” Brut 1998 ($200, Wildman): I've missed a few vintages of Pol Roger's famous Cuvée de Prestige homage to Churchill (who was famously enamored with this wines of

this house), which is a fact that I came to lament deeply after tasting the rendition from 1998. It combines truly awesome depth of flavor and breadth of texture, yet also has a freshness and vivacity that seems quite uncanny in combination with the wine's size and flavor impact. Quite beyond being an impressive Champagne, this is an obviously great wine, and one that will continue to develop additional complexity for another decade. 97 Michael Franz Dec 18, 2007

Ayala, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2007 ($80, Vintus):

Though based in Aÿ, the name of this Champagne house comes from its founder, a Spaniard, Edmond de Ayala. The house has been owned by Bollinger since 2005, but the style of Ayala -- fresh and light -- couldn’t be more different. The grapes for their vintage Blanc de Blancs come entirely from Grand Cru-classified villages, according to Michael Quinttus, the head of Vintus, Ayala’s U.S. importer. This is a dazzling wine. Creamy and intense, it is nonetheless light and airy, dancing on the palate. It’s a paradigm of power and elegance. Exceptional length makes conversation pause. Although I’d hate to say $80 is a bargain, this Ayala compares favorably with many far more expensive super-premium bottlings.
96 Michael Apstein Jul 24, 2018

Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée de Moines” Brut 2002 ($70, Winesellers, Ltd): Bruno Paillard recently acquired Besserat de Bellefon and his hand is apparent is the quality of this wine. A blend of Chardonnay (54%), Pinot Noir (15%) and Pinot Meunier, it combines a mouth filling creaminess, elegance and power. The long and refined finish is show stopping. It’s a masterful combination. 96 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "RD" 1995 ($190, Terlato Wines International): Bollinger puts aside a small quantity of its Vintage Champagne in especially good vintages, ages it on its lees for about ten years, then disgorges, bottles and releases it as as R.D. (recently disgorged). Bollinger's R.D. Champagnes have the advantage of tasting fresh even though they are aged, and have gained complexity during the aging process. The 1995 R.D. is magnificent, huge, nutty, and powerful, with toasty bread flavors and a touch of honey. It is perfect to drink now, but coming from a long-lived vintage, it should keep well for another few years. (By the way, the 1996 R.D. is now available in the U.S.; it should be awesome!) 96 Ed McCarthy Jan 8, 2008

Bollinger, Champagne (France) “La Grande Année” 2004 ($122, Vintus):

Although the next vintage has been released, the 2004 Bollinger La Grande Année is widely available in the US market. If you love richly styled Champagne, you should find a bottle while it is still available. It shows a rich bouquet of red and black cherries with hints of strawberry, white flowers, cream, butter and toast. The flavors are complete and complex with the cherry and berry fruits enhanced by the toasty, yeasty character the Methode Champenoise imparts plus subtleties of lemon peel, almond, cream and smoky spice. It has rounded into form beautifully over the past year and its full flavors, layered complexity, creamy texture and long finish add up to a totally satisfying Champagne that will age well for another decade.
96 Wayne Belding Jun 9, 2015

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Brut Millesime 2004 ($90):

Paillard commissions artwork for his vintage Champagnes, always with a theme. The theme of the 2004 Brut Millesime is "symphony," because Paillard believes this wine combines "freshness with maturity" and that it builds to what he describes as a "crescendo" as it sits in the glass. It shows notes of brioche and honey, with aromas of red fruits and black fruits, and a gentle whiff of citrus. This is a very complex Champagne with the potential to improve with age over a decade or more.
96 Robert Whitley Mar 25, 2014

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Rosé Premiere Cuvee NV ($59):

Paillard’s technique for his multi-vintage rosé Champagne (the reserve wines used in the blend go all the way back to 1985) involves making a white base-wine from pinot noir grapes and a red base-wine from pinot, with a dash of chardonnay thrown in for its bright acidity and lift on the palate. This exquisite cuvee shows complex aromas of strawberry and citrus, is vibrant on the palate, and very dry due to a meager dosage of 6 grams per liter. The result is an impressive rosé Champagne that has the power and oomph to stand up to roasted game birds, and the finesse and elegance to be enjoyed on its own as an aperitif.
96 Robert Whitley Jul 24, 2018

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Rosé, Premiere Cuvee NV ($86):

This multi-vintage extra brut rosé is classic Paillard, and by that I mean it is the personification of elegance. Add to that the flamboyance of Bruno the man and you have a remarkable Champagne with a touch of attitude. For example, the technical sheet for this cuvee simply states that the blend is a first pressing of “mainly” Pinot Noir. There’s a bit of Chardonnay as well, the amount of which “remains secret.” Pale, almost onion skin in color, the Premiere Cuvee shows subtle red fruits, a fine mousse and astonishing length on the finish.
96 Robert Whitley Dec 29, 2020

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Rosé Reserve NV ($87):

For some of the most delicate bubbles around — and not just in terms of texture — France's Champagne region reigns, and Charles Heidsieck is one of the region's classics. Sparkling Rosé adds a little depth and intrigue to the sparkling experience. This blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 20% of which is selected from cellar reserve wines, is a fantastic opener for any occasion. Boasting a bright, pink hue, aromas of fresh strawberry and pomegranate lead to a delicate palate that offers a mélange of fruit and spice.
96 Jessica Dupuy Dec 29, 2020

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) “Champagne Charlie” NV ($700, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

The original Charles Heidsieck spent several years in the middle of the 1800s selling Champagne in America, gaining the popular name “Champagne Charlie,” but he was imprisoned during the Civil War as a Confederate spy. The firm launched a few releases of “Champagne Charlie” in his honor before abandoning the effort in 1985 only to resurrect it with this new edition, cellared in 2017, to celebrate his 200th birthday. Further, the bottles for its June launch were brought to New York from France totally under sail aboard the French vessel, Grain de Sail. I tasted the wine, which will be available in September, on the boat’s foredeck in New York harbor and found it to be extremely light and elegant on the palate, very fresh in spite of the fact that cellar master Cyril Brun, who tasted with me, used an unusually high 80 percent reserve wine. Most of the rest came from the 2016 harvest. In spite of its almost ethereal dance across the palate, with very little of the brioche flavors that additions of reserve wines often impart, it finishes crisp and tight. “I wanted it to be similar to the other ‘Charlies’ [made in the 1980s], so I used the reserves to accelerate its evolution,” Brun said. It is certainly up to speed.
96 Roger Morris Jun 21, 2022

Duval-Leroy, Champagne (France) Rosé Prestige, Premier Cru Brut NV ($80, Terlato):

This is a lovely bottle of bubbles! On the bolder side of rosé champagne in aroma and flavor, but showing real elegance on the palate thanks to thirty six months on the lees -- more than double the required fifteen. Bright cherry, strawberry, soft vanilla and phyllo dough are beautifully integrated throughout, and the finish brings in racy, refreshing lemon zest that keeps things lively and brings you back for more. This might be a little tricky to locate, but it's worth the effort. Cheers!
96 Rich Cook Jan 3, 2017

Ninety-plus bucks for a non-vintage Champagne is asking a lot. But Egly-Ouriet delivers with their VP (Vieillissement Prolongé or long aging) bottling. Entirely from Grand Cru villages, this Champagne is a seamless blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The power of the latter is impeccably balanced and even amplified by the creamy elegance of the Chardonnay. There’s a lovely interplay between mature, biscuit-like nuances that persist into a seemingly endless finish and an enlivening freshness. Layers of flavor emerge with successive sips, making this an extraordinary wine!

Emmanuelle Herblin, Champagne (France) “Bulle Féminine” Extra-Brut NV ($35):

This is an absolutely charming Champagne, bone dry and beautifully balanced between delicate fruitiness and crisp acidity. The “feminine” bubbles are a revelation: Tiny, light and festive they add textural interest plus a sort of taste appeal as they give the impression of delivering flavor to every corner of the palate. The grapes are 70% Meunier and 30% Chardonnay. This sparkler may be hard to find but it’s well worth seeking out.
96 Marguerite Thomas Jan 7, 2020

Henriot, Champagne (France) 1998 ($95, Henriot):

All of the current release Champagnes from Henriot are terrific, and this one is particularly impressive. Fully mature with outstanding complexity, it nevertheless remains focused and fresh, with no trace of undesirable oxidation. Medium-bodied, it is full of flavor but still light and fresh on the palate, with an extremely long, symmetrical finish. Better than most Cuvée de Prestige Champagnes but costing notably less, this is a special occasion Champagne that is complete and utterly convincing. 96 Michael Franz Mar 16, 2010

Laherte Frères, Champagne (France) Rosé de Meunier, Extra Brut NV ($52, Victory Wine Group):

Get ready to be amazed and delighted by this luscious Champagne Rosé. The intense, medium red color with orange highlights and vigorous tiny bubbles are the first indication to get anticipate a delicious treat. Delicate aromas of raspberries and cherries are laced with notes of orange zest and chalky mineral notes. It is dry, but the flavors of berries with notes of citrus and chalk are round in the mouth and lifted by crisp acidity and effervescence. This remarkably delicious wine is made from Pinot Meunier, a red grape, prepared three ways. Sixty percent is a white wine made by separating the skins from the juice. Some color is obtained by macerating the with skins with juice for 30 percent of the blend. The remaining ten percent is a red wine, which adds more color and structure from the grape tannins. The Laherte family’s estate was created by Jean-Baptiste Laherte in 1889 in the area that today is called The Villlages of the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay. They became winemakers more recently and the company is in the hands of the sixth and seventh generation.
96 Rebecca Murphy Nov 2, 2021

Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2000 ($78, Vintage '59 Imports):

This marvelous Champagne is among the most complex and interesting wines that I've tasted in 2007. It shows a superb combination of freshness and maturity, with primary fruit notes and a core of minerality still evident, but also lots of little nuances from development over time, with terrific toasty, nutty accents that make every sniff and sip a new experience. 96 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2007

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage Collection Brut 1999 ($140):

Moet's Grand Vintage Collection series highlights the remarkable but little-known ability of Champagne to improve with age. This 15-year-old brut is a beautiful example of that fact, with freshness that would otherwise seem unlikely at this age. The 1999 offers crunchy green apple aromas while exhibiting richness and weight on the palate, and evolved, mature aromas of caramel and brioche. Judges at the 2014 Sommelier Challenge in San Diego awarded it a platinum medal. 96 Robert Whitley Sep 23, 2014

Palmer & Co., Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($75):

Palmer’s blanc de blancs is an elegant, sophisticated Champagne, exhibiting exceptional length and richness without losing its subtle touch of minerality and stoniness. Showing notes of citrus, brioche and spice, it is beautiful as an aperitif but more aptly suited for smoked salmon or caviar!
96 Robert Whitley Dec 4, 2018

Pascal Doquet, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004 ($75, Robert Kacher Selections):

This is not only among the best Champagnes that I tasted in 2014, but also among the very best wines of any type. Made entirely from Chardonnay grapes sourced from vineyards in the famous village of Le Mesnil sur Oger, it conveys all of the best qualities of a great Blanc de Blancs Champagne from the first whiff to the last sensory note of the delicate but exceedingly persistent finish. Soft scents of stone fruit and brioche get it off to a great start in aromatic terms, and the flavors are at once deep and rich but also surpassingly delicate--in the uncanny combination that seems to derive from wines from Le Mesnil more than any other great village in Champagne’s Côte de Blancs. In terms of texture, there’s a palpable creaminess to the wine that is also a classic expression of this type of wine. One last attribute worth noting is that the wine’s aromas, flavors, and structural elements are all wonderfully integrated, providing a sensory experience that--while quite complex--is equally notable for its proportionality and seamlessness. An indisputably great wine at a very fair price.
96 Michael Franz Dec 16, 2014

Perrier-Jouet, Champagne (France) “Belle Epoque” 2006 ($160, Pernod Ricard USA):

A classic Champagne in every vintage, the 2006 Belle Epoque delivers celebration with every sip. It's rich, creamy, dry and delightful, with flavors of apple, lemon crème and brioche over stony minerality, all of which hang in through an extremely long finish. A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
96 Rich Cook Jun 2, 2015

Philippe Gonet, Champagne (France) “TER” Blanc NV ($115, UVA Imports):

Philippe Gonet’s TER pushes Champagne’s already stringent quality requirements to make an incredible, high-quality Champagne. TER’s name represents three meanings. The wine is sourced from three different vineyards, in three different regions, and sees 3g/L dosage -- this is the sugar added to Champagne after the second, in-bottle fermentation. The wine drinks bone dry and the miniscule amounts of sugar added are undetectable due to its racy acidity. The wine’s extended lees aging shows bruised fruit, lime peel, pink grapefruit, and mossy river rock minerality. Philippe Gonet is a well known name in Champagne and his high-end wines are a clear leap above your standard bubbly, even from Champagne.
96 Vince Simmon Nov 22, 2022

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004 ($120, Frederick Wildman):

Pol Roger is one my favorite Champagne producers. Their non-vintage bottling is consistently appealing and always well priced. They are a small producer among the Grande Marque (big name) Champagne houses with only about 1.2 million bottles annually (Moët and Chandon, the largest house produces 20+ million bottles annually). Pol Roger is also one of the few major houses to produce a Blanc de Blancs Champagne. Don’t miss their 2004, a thrilling bottle of wine. Sure, you can enjoy this extraordinary Champagne by itself because of its impeccable balance, but its depth and freshness, not to mention its extraordinary length, makes it a fabulous choice for a chicken and cream sauce. It’s the epitome of power and elegance. If you’re splurging this holiday season, here’s the wine for you.
96 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2014

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2008 ($140, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.):

Pol Roger is a widely known and admired Champagne house, but at the higher end of their offerings, the famous Winston Churchill cuvée gets most of the attention. That’s entirely understandable if you’ve ever been fortunate enough to taste that wine, but this vintage blanc de blancs bottling is sensational in almost every vintage in which Pol Roger chooses to make it, and I’ve tasted 20 year-old examples that were still fresh while showing mind-blowing levels of complexity. This 2008 rendition seems capable of attaining that level of excellence when fully mature, but I’d bet that not many bottles of it will reach old age, as it is already quite expressive and delicious. The aromas show perfect balance of yeast- and fruit-based notes, and that balance follows through on the palate as well. Neither overt nor austere, it is a beautifully symmetrical wine, and the mousse is quite energetic but still very fine in texture. A great wine, to be sure, and the only question is whether you’d prefer it early on for all of the frothy fabulousness that it is showing at present, or whether you’d trade that for the amazing intricacy that it is sure to show with additional ageing.
96 Michael Franz Nov 17, 2015

Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Comtes de Champagne” Brut Blanc de Blancs 2004 ($190, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Taittinger’s Blanc de Blancs bottling at the flagship “Comtes de Champagne” level is always less expensive than the Rosé, but often a wine that is even more complex and complete. The current 2005 Rosé release is so good--and so much better than most other cuvée de prestige Rosé Champagnes--that I can’t quite give this 2004 Blanc de Blancs and edge over it, but there’s no doubt that this wine will stop you in your tracks. It isn’t as rich or weighty as some earlier vintages, but clearly makes up for that with amazing linear energy, as the focused citrus flavors are remarkably persistent, culminating in a finish that seems to go on for a full minute after the wine has cleared the palate. The flavors are strikingly fresh, as the yeast signature is quite subtle, and indeed the wine seems much more mineral than yeasty in character. Now nearly nine years old, this is only starting to hit its stride, and it will surely benefit from cellaring for a full decade and perhaps longer.
96 Michael Franz Jul 16, 2013

Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Comtes de Champagne” Brut Rosé 2005 ($275, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): The 2005 Comtes Rosé is frighteningly good, and you would be well advised to place most of your financial resources in escrow before trying this wine--for fear that you’ll empty your accounts when buying more of it. One of the Champagne region’s most intricate and stylish rosé wines, this is always outstanding, but the 2005 seems particularly energetic and engaging, with vibrant red berry fruit and interesting accents of bread crust, anise seed and marzipan. One of its best qualities is that it is very expressive and full of flavor but really only medium-bodied, so it will be a great treat at the table if you can manage to keep from drinking all of it before dinner. A thoroughly compelling wine.
96 Michael Franz Jul 16, 2013

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Rosé Reserve 1988 ($125, Moet Hennessy USA): Veuve Clicquot's 1988 Rosé Reserve was a revelation to me; I've never enjoyed a Clicquot Rosé Reserve as much as this '88! Its color has faded to a beautiful light golden-pink; its effervescence was still quite abundant for a 20 year-old Champagne. Its early, rambunctious, lively berry flavors have changed with time to subtle, complex flavors of mushrooms with a hint of dried strawberries. Still full-bodied, it was perfect with canned mussels. This Rosé was further proof to me of the greatness of the underrated 1988 vintage in Champagne. 96 Ed McCarthy Jul 22, 2008

André Jacquart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs “Brut Experience” NV ($55, Esprit du Vin):

It’s unusual to find a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne. This one is stunning and not to be missed. The creamy elegance and precision for which Chardonnay-based Champagne is renown is immediately apparent. Of course is doesn’t hurt that all the grapes come from their vineyards located in either Premier or Grand Cru villages on the Côte des Blancs, the best area in Champagne for Chardonnay. The seemingly endless finish reinforces this wine’s appeal. It dazzles you with its subtlety and finesse, rather than brute force. This wine is a bargain for what it delivers.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 27, 2015

Ayala, Champagne (France) "Cuvée Perle d’Ayala" Millésimé Brut 2001 ($120, Cognac One): Ayala's Prestige Cuvée, Cuvée Perle d'Ayala is brand new. Practically no one produced a 2001 Vintage Champagne because of the heavy

rainfalls in September. Ayala, a relatively small house (700,000 bottles annually), made a strict selection from Grands Cru grapes for its 2001 Prestige Cuvée Its composition is the exact opposite of Ayala's 1999 Brut Millésimé: 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir. The 2001 Cuvée Perle is very elegant with lots of class, more so than Ayala's brawnier '99 Brut Millésimé. At this point, it really needs time to develop; I would hold on to it for five years before drinking it. Along with their Blanc de Blancs, it's a true star in Ayala's new portfolio of Champagnes. 95 Ed McCarthy Apr 22, 2008

Benoît Lahaye, Champagne (France) Brut Nature NV ($75, Grand Cru Selections):

Benoît Lahaye is a fine producer in the village of Bouzy on the Montagne de Reims. The small domaine of around 12 acres is well-positioned on the slopes and the average age of vines is around 35 years. The Grand Cru Brut Nature reflects the rich, ripe style that reflects the style of both Bouzy and Lahaye. Ripe cherry, strawberry and sweet citrus fruits combine with hints of fresh-bread yeastiness, smoke and spice. The flavors are pure, ripe and round, with the plush fruits backed by a creamy richness and hints of citrus peel, lemon curd and smoke. This is a fabulous Champagne that drinks well now and will last for several more years in the bottle.
95 Wayne Belding Aug 24, 2021

Billecart-Salmon, Champagne (France) "Cuvée Louis Salmon" Brut Blanc de Blanc 2008 ($199, T. Edward Wines):

In an introductory Zoom presentation, Billecart-Salmon leader Mathieu Rolland-Billecart joked, “If you don’t achieve greatness in 2008, you should quit making wine.” The cellar master’s job is secure. The wonderful thing about Champagne is its distinctiveness. It’s fairly easy to pick up a glass of bubbly and say, “This is Champagne” or “This is not Champagne” and be correct, and yet the range of tastes of vintage Champagne between maisons can still be tremendously varied. In this case, the structure is perhaps as important as its flavors – a big and rich Champagne, yet one with great finesse and complexity. The flavors, of course, are quite charming – light, green, piquant fruity notes balanced with a little bit of brown bread – not brioche – and a hint of tannins that overlay a metallic minerality, like drinking bubbly from a tin cup instead of stemware. Parts of the wine were vinified in very old barrels “for micro-oxygenation and roundness,” and, after its October 2020 disgorgement, it was allowed to rest for another year before release.
95 Roger Morris Apr 12, 2022

Billecart-Salmon, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs 1999 ($120, T. Edward Wines):

Billecart-Salmon has always produced one of the very best blanc de blancs Champagnes; the problem was that most of it went to a few top French restaurants around the world. Now, with a new importer, we can find this Champagne in retail stores. Its current vintage, 1999, is exciting. Made from all Grand Cru vineyards on the Côte des Blancs, the 1999 is rich with lemony aromas and flavors, and has a long finish. Billecart-Salmon’s vintage blanc de blancs always exhibit great longevity (its ’88 is still quite young), but you can enjoy the ’99 now. Undoubtedly, it also has a long future. 95 Ed McCarthy Jan 11, 2011

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "Grande Annee" Rosé 1999 ($180, Terlato Wines International): Most of the top Rosé Champagnes, such as Bollinger's Grande Année, are pale salmon; some are even onion skin in color. But don't let the color fool you. The 1999 Grande Année is powerful, concentrated, very subtle, and yet very flavorful, sort of like strawberries with a dry touch of rhubarb. It is totally enjoyable now, but is capable of aging well, just like its companion 1999 white Grande Année. 95 Ed McCarthy Jul 22, 2008

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "Grande Annee" 1999 ($110, Terlato Wines International):

Bollinger's 1999 Grande Année is highly successful. It is drinking at a perfect stage now, but has the balance and trademark Bollinger acidity to age well for at least another ten years. The 1999 is classically dry, full-bodied, concentrated, and yet subtle, not showing all of its cards yet. Typical Bollinger biscuity flavors. A great Champagne! 95 Ed McCarthy Jul 22, 2008

Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut 2002 ($99, Terlato): I don’t know how Bollinger manages to combine power and grace so successfully in all their Champagnes. The 2002 is especially noteworthy for this combination of intensity and elegance without being overdone. The biscuit-like flavors seem to persist forever. You could practically drink this with a steak. 95 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Brut Premiere Cuvee NV ($50):

Bruno Paillard Champagnes are notable for their elegance with power, or perhaps one might say depth and power without weight. The non-vintage Brut Premiere Cuvee is the personification of what Bruno does on a consistent basis, crafting a Champagne that is well balanced, complex and remarkably powerful – yet subtle. It’s pure magic. Rich and creamy, with firm acidity and lush notes of pear, golden delicious apple and a long, tantalizing finish. 95 Robert Whitley Nov 14, 2017

Castelnau, Champagne (France) “Le Chemin du Roi” NV ($160):

This bottling has suffered from bottle variation issues in the past, but they seem to be in the past now. This is quite classic in style, with fresh citrus, apple, brioche and toasty notes that show depth and integration from start to finish. Curtis “50 Cent” Jackson promotes this line, and I imagine his followers appreciate it. I’m a fan!
95 Rich Cook Jul 5, 2022

Champagne Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc De Blancs NV ($91, Vineyard Brands):

Tasting this wine blind confirmed precisely my impression from tasting a press sample in late December of 2021, right down to the exact score. The current release of this is probably the best I’ve ever tasted over three decades of admiration for the Blanc de Blancs from Delamotte. Made with Chardonnay sourced from the famed Grand Cru villages of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, and Cramant, it is crafted in a straightforward manner to display the fruit from these great chalky limestone terroirs, with low dosage and only 10% reserve wines added to the base vintage. Both of these last two facts would seem to presage an austere wine, but that’s emphatically not the case here, thanks to long aging on the lees prior to disgorgement and then additional aging under cork. The aromas are delicate but very complex, with yeasty notes perfectly balanced against suggestions of ripe fruit, and the flavors are at once very fresh but also quite generous, with creamy texture enlivened by soft effervescence. Another indication of the quality here is that the wine was even better when re-tasted several hours later, while still chilled, and arguably better still when tasted after another few hours at room temperature after being left un-stoppered. Those are indications of truly exceptional quality, and an ironclad guarantee the wine can improve with another couple of years of cellaring. A Platinum Award winner at the 2022 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.
95 Michael Franz Feb 1, 2022

Champagne Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) Rosé 2011 ($76, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Louis Roederer’s Vintage Rosé is the big surprise in the portfolio; it is great! A delicate, dry rosé, it is simply delicious. Again, Lécaillon uses its vineyards in the Cumières area for the grapes. The Rosé is made from 60 percent Pinot Noir, 40 percent Chardonnay. Lécaillon manages to obtain a light, delicate hue from Pinot Noir grapes for Roederer’s rosés, and ages it for four years in the cellars. I was bowled over by the 2008 Louis Roederer Rosé a few years ago; I love the style. The current 2011 is very similar. Roederer’s rosé is its lightest Champagne. In my opinion, it is a terrific aperitif Champagne. Available in half-bottles.
95 Ed McCarthy Mar 21, 2017

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Vintage Rose 2006 ($150):

This 2006 vintage rose from Charles Heidsieck exhibits remarkable length and persistence through the finish, suggesting that at 10 years old it is only now hitting its stride. On the nose it shows hints of strawberry and spice, which mirror the flavors on the palate. Firmly structured, it has the acid backbone to go on for another decade at least, but with enough flesh and fruit to carry its firm frame into the next decade. It also shows a note of cola that is a sign secondary aromas that have been lurking are about to emerge. Very complex, fresh and engaging now and for many more years to come.
95 Robert Whitley Mar 8, 2016

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Blanc des Millénaires Blanc de Blancs 1995 ($95, Rémy Amerique): This extraordinary wine is a bit more masculine than most Blanc de Blancs bottlings, but is still very charming, with deep, muscular flavors, great depth of flavor, and impressive length. It shows wonderful aromatic complexity and great drive right through to the long, symmetrical finish, yet it also displays remarkable elegance and balance. Mature and developed at this stage but still vibrant and certainly not played out, this is an obviously great wine. 95 Michael Franz Dec 23, 2008

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé 1999 ($90, Rémy Cointreau USA Wines): Champagne Charles Heidsieck is the most seriously underrated Champagne around, in my opinion. At a recent tasting of 20 top rosé Champagnes that I attended, Heidsieck’s ’99 Rosé stood out as the star. Full-bodied, dry, and intense, it is packed with red berry aromas and flavors. A perfect choice to accompany dinner entrées. Charles Heidsieck is now also making an NV Rosé Réserve Brut, which is quite good, but not in the same class as its ’99. 95 Ed McCarthy Jan 11, 2011

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Rosé Réserve NV ($87, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

Charles Heidsieck is a name to remember when buying Champagne. For some bizarre reason, it seems to receive less buzz than many of the other major houses. But that is changing under the Descours family ownership since 2011. Four years on the lees (the back label notes it was laid down in 2013 and disgorged in 2017) and inclusion of 20 percent reserve wine that averages a decade of age helps explain the wow factor this rosé presents. Both powerful and elegant, it displays wild strawberry-like flavors buttressed by a strong spine. The long and graceful wine is perfect as an aperitif. But it is also a show-stopper with the meal.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2020

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) “Réserve” Brut NV ($69, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

This is a fabulously complex and elegant Champagne. Yes, it’s pricey for a non-vintage Champagne, but I think it’s worth it. The website says that their non-vintage wine is an equal blend of all three varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, that has been aged on the lees for three years. The back label explains that reserve wines, the average age of which is 10 years, comprise 40 percent of the blend. That fact alone helps explain why it is so grand a Champagne. And, believe me, it is grand. Both suave and powerful, it has an almost never-ending finish. For all its intensity, it’s incredibly elegant.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 29, 2020

Chartogne-Taillet, Champagne (France) Les Barres Extra Brut 2011 ($105, Terry Theise Selection):

The house of Chartogne-Taillet makes a range of splendid Champagnes. One of their most unusual and intriguing is the Les Barres Extra Brut. While most Champagnes are a blend of grapes, this one is unusual in that it is made entirely of Pinot Meunier. Les Barres is a vineyard planted in 1952 in the village of Merfy on the Montagne de Reims. The vines here are ungrafted because the soil is sandy and phylloxera does not like sand. It is an Extra Brut -- bottled with a very low dosage – but there is so much richness in the wine there is no need to add much sugar. It shows a rich bouquet of lemon curd, cherries, almonds, white flowers, cream, butter and toast. The flavors are complete and complex with the lemon and cherry fruits enhanced by a subtle spice, the toasty, yeasty character the Methode Champenoise imparts, plus hints of almond, cream and butter. The 2011 Les Barres Extra Brut offers a sensational combination of full flavors, rich texture, layered complexity and a long finish.
95 Wayne Belding Jan 10, 2017

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Brut 2002 ($80, Vineyard Brands): It’s no wonder that Delamotte makes a fabulous Blanc de Blancs Champagne since they are located in -- and own vineyards in -- Mesnil sur Oger, a village in the Côtes des Blancs that has grand cru status because of its exceptional Chardonnay. Add the excellent 2002 vintage in Champagne and you have a great wine. It delivers a lovely suave creaminess buttressed by a firm edge. Focused and refreshing, its stature is apparent in its hauntingly alluring finish. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($91, Vineyard Brands):

The current stock of this wine being released into the USA is stunningly good…the best I’ve ever tasted over three decades of admiration for Delamotte’s Blanc de Blancs. The bottle I tasted was a press sample straight from the importer, indicating that this is fresh stock, which makes its ultra-complex, luxuriously aged character all the more impressive. Made with Chardonnay sourced from the famed Grand Cru villages of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, and Cramant, it is crafted in a straightforward manner to display the fruit from these great chalky limestone terroirs, with low dosage and only 10% reserve wines added to the base vintage. Both of these last two facts would seem to presage an austere wine, but that’s emphatically not the case here thanks to long aging on the lees prior to disgorgement and then additional aging under cork. The aromas are delicate but very complex, with yeasty notes perfectly balanced against suggestions of ripe fruit, and the flavors are at once very fresh but also quite generous, with creamy texture enlivened by soft effervescence.
95 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2021

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Rosé NV ($85, Vineyard Brands):

If you are looking for a sparkling wine to serve with your holiday prime rib roast, Champagne Delamotte has the answer. It is a Rosé made primarily of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from cru vineyards including Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, and Oger. The golden red-orange color is courtesy of Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne. It is a vibrant, spicy wine with red currant fruit mingling with notes of ginger and cloves. An exuberant, mouthful of tiny bubbles is supported by zesty acidity. Red wine lovers will appreciate a light, tannic mouthfeel in the finish.
95 Rebecca Murphy Nov 14, 2023

Diebolt-Vallois, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs “Fleur de Passion” 2002 ($150, Vintage '59 Imports): This marvelous Champagne isn't as dramatic as most Cuveé de Prestige wines, but it is a real connoisseur's choice. Very dry, and almost austere at the first sniff and sip, it unfolds a host of subtle nuances as it warms and opens in the glass. You won't find a big overlay of oxidation or yeastiness, but rather a steely core of very pure fruit that is interlaced with energetic acidity that drives the wine to a very long finish that shows lovely nutty and mineral nuances. I'd bet that this will develop positive characteristics for a decade if you've got good cellaring capability and plenty of patience. Terrific stuff. 95 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2008

Duval Leroy, Champagne (France) Rosé Prestige, Premier Cru Brut NV ($80, Terlato):

The richness and depth of Duval Leroy’s Rose Prestige is a tribute its vineyard selection. Only premier cru and grand cru terroirs are used, delivering a brut Champagne with uncommon intensity of flavor and mouth-filling richness on the palate. Aromas of cherry and strawberry dominate in this pinot noir-dominant (90 percent) cuvee that that rivals the best from such stars of rose Champagne as Billecart-Salmon and Laurent-Perrier.
95 Robert Whitley Dec 27, 2016

Egly-Ouriet, Champagne (France) Premier Cru “Les Vignes de Vrigny” Brut NV ($74, Skurnik Wines):

You probably know that the main grape varieties in for Champagne are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. However, finding a Champagne made solely from Pinot Meunier like this one from grower-producer, Egly-Ouriet, is unusual, and definitely worthy of your attention. It is made from 40 year-old-vines from Francis Egly’s five acres in the Premier Cru village of Vrigny. It is a multi-vintage blend with 50 percent from 2011 and 30 percent from 2010 and 20 percent from 2009. It is fermented and aged 36 months on lees in tank, and shows a pale golden color with a hint of rose and tiny, prolific bubbles that belies the power to come. The combination of Pinot Meunier base wines from three vintages and extended lees contact has created a complex fusion of intensity, texture and grace. Flavors of ripe raspberries and stone fruits are sumptuous and tempered by vibrant acidity. Savor it by itself, it is worthy of an evening’s contemplation. Its complexity and richness make it a fit for savory mushroom dishes, even veal or chicken entrees.
95 Rebecca Murphy Sep 10, 2019

Egly-Ouriet, Champagne (France) Brut Tradition Grand Cru NV ($85, Skurnik Wines and Spirits):

Egly-Ouriet is considered one of the top producers of “Grower” Champagnes. Growers, as opposed to the famous Champagne houses, farm and make Champagne from their own grapes. This elegant Champagne (disgorged October 2019) combines the best qualities of Egly-Ouriet, namely strikingly nuanced aromatic detail, a gracefully powerful palate, and a creamy finish. It has an expressive bouquet of Grand Cru fruit, honeycomb, dried flowers, and fresh-baked bread. With a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, mostly from the famous village of Ambonnay, the palate shows richness and an exquisite sense of place and structure. This lacks for nothing and is guaranteed to be a crowd-pleaser.
95 Miranda Franco Dec 29, 2020

Gosset, Champagne (France) Grand Blanc de Blancs NV ($110, Palm Bay Imports):

Gosset has introduced a new Blanc de Blancs bubbly, the multi-vintage Grand Blanc de Blancs, and as with everything Gosset, it is the epitome of elegance and finesse. A 100 percent Chardonnay cuvee, this beautifully structured Champagne is very dry (about 3.5 grams per liter of sugar, which is extremely low) and crisp, exhibiting notes of citrus and brioche, with a fine, precise bead. The vintages used in the new cuvee are 2003, 2004 and 2005. A bit pricey, but with this particular bubbly, you get what you pay for.

Henriot, Champagne (France) Brut Millesime 1998 ($95, Henriot): Absolutely one of the finest 1998 Champagnes I have tasted to date, this remarkable release from Henriot calls to mind all of the worn cliches you may have heard about the qualitative differences between Champagne and sparkling wines produced elsewhere. Nowhere else will you find the combination of power, delicacy, creaminess with firm structure, complexity of aroma, and longevity. Only in the chalky soils of Champagne. This vintage of Henriot is a masterpiece, very complex and long in the mouth, with a clean, lingering finish. It was aged six years on the lees before disgorgement, but will easily go another 10-12 years on the cork. 95 Robert Whitley Dec 2, 2008

Jacquesson, Champagne (France) “Cuvée no. 737” Extra Brut NV ($75, Vintage '59 Imports): Jacquesson isn’t a big name in Champagne in the USA market, but it is among the most highly respected houses among those who really know the category and aren’t fixated on the giant producers that continue to dominate in terms of restaurant placements and 4th quarter sales. Given that fact for starters, adding in the factor that this is a multi-vintage blend

rather than a vintage dated wine amounts to a second strike against it, at least in commercial terms. And yet, two strikes mean exactly nothing when a home run is hit on the third pitch, and that’s precisely what this wine delivers from the glass. The aromas are highly detailed and intricate, showing ripe flavors from the 2009 vintage on which the blend was based, but a very low dosage of 3.5 grams per liter of sugar leaves the wine seeming fresh, taut, and highly energetic. Some deep bass notes, derived from reserve wines that were used to round out the blend, provide richness and complexity. All of this adds up to a wine that is marvelously complete and complex, indicating great blending skill as well as utilization of first rate raw materials. To put the price in context, you’d be wrong to wince when this rings up for the price of a vintage-dated Champagne, for the simple reason that it is actually much more intricate than most millesime wines, and also capable of considerable positive development from cellaring.
95 Michael Franz May 19, 2015

Laherte Frères, Champagne (France) “Ultradition” Rosé NV ($50, Polaner Selections):

Made entirely from Pinot Meunier, this powerful yet graceful Champagne, shows how that grape, in the right hands, can excel. The Pinot Meunier comes from old vines, which likely explains the wine’s elegance because that grape is more often used to bring fruitiness, not finesse, to the blend. There’s certainly powerful fruitiness -- wild strawberry-like flavors -- framed beautifully by a straight spine. Barrel-fermentation and aging along with a hefty dose of reserve wines helps explain the power. But it’s the wine’s elegance and finish that makes you pause. Great as an aperitif, it’s a wonderful choice for the entire meal.
95 Michael Apstein Sep 11, 2018

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut, Millesime 2008 ($80):

A very solid vintage offering from Laurent-Perrier, and from an absolutely superb vintage at that. Brioche and pear are vibrant on the nose and translate beautifully on the palate in dry style with perfectly balanced acidity that doesn’t scour, but keeps the flavors dancing long into the evening. A nice value for a vintage Champagne of this quality, and it’s presenting so fresh now that you can cellar some for the future -- a long future if you like that attractively aged edge to your bubbles.
95 Rich Cook Dec 24, 2019

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut, Millesime 2008 ($80):

At 11 years old, this vintage brut from Laurent-Perrier exhibits remarkable freshness and lift. With a delicate mousse and notes of lemon oil, green apple and brioche, impressive depth and length on the palate and a beautiful finish, the 2008 shows the firm backbone and elegance of this excellent vintage.
95 Robert Whitley Dec 10, 2019

Le Chemin du Roi, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($160):

This brand is quite a lineup for those seeking a unique gift. It’s dressed to impress, and the contents follow through with what’s on the outside. Lovely brioche aromas entice, and a fine mousse, rich texture and dry style delight the palate. A blooming finish pushes citrus, apple and stone minerality that dance together nicely. I’ve tasted this a few times, and it seems to be coming into its own. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.
95 Rich Cook Feb 2, 2021

Le Chemin du Roi, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($160, Sire Spirits):

I suspect the packaging on this wine will prove rather polarizing, but then, as the old saying goes, there’s no accounting for taste. Judged on the wine’s merits, it performs very, very well, showing very fine effervescence, fine balance between dosage, acidity and yeasty notes, and real depth on the palate. Priced at a level pitting this against the likes of Krug and Dom Perignon is a bold move, but the move was backed up with excellent bubbly. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition.
95 Michael Franz Jun 22, 2021

Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) "Perle" Grand Cru, Blanc de Blancs NV ($95, Vintage ’59 Imports):

Lilbert-Fils is a small grower in the Côte des Blancs of Champagne, producing just over 2000 case a year. Sourced from Grand Cru vineyards in Oiry, Chouilly and (mostly) Cramant, their Perle bottling is exquisite. Finished with 4 atmospheres of pressure within the bottle rather than the standard 6 atmospheres, it has a softer, creamier character than other Cramant bottlings. It does, however, show the best characteristics of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. The bouquet shows pure, apple and lemon fruits with toasty, yeasty and creamy nuances. On the palate, it is vivid, lively and layered with lemon curd, green apple and citrus tones interwoven with the creamy and yeasty elements. The overall experience is harmonious and invigorating -- the essence of finesse and complexity. Production is tiny, so try it if you can find it.
95 Wayne Belding Dec 24, 2019

Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2005 ($96, Vintage ’59 Imports): I don’t know how I have managed to overlook Lilbert’s Champagnes over the years. I tasted their whole range at a tasting sponsored by the CIVC, the trade group that represents Champagne producers, that included

hundreds of Champagnes from scores of producers. Lilbert’s entire range was simply marvelous. This 2005 Blanc de Blancs shows why that category of Champagne, made exclusively from Chardonnay, has the cachet and prestige it does. Creamy and elegant, it has plenty of power and persistence, no doubt in part because the grapes come exclusively from Cramant, a grand cru village known for its great Chardonnay. Each sip is a joy. Just gorgeous! 95 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) “Collection 242” NV ($62):

Roederer, certainly one of the very top names in Champagne, has replaced its Brut Premier bottling with the Collection line. As much as I enjoyed their Brut Premier, Roederer’s Collection bottling is a big step up, at least judging from the first release, Collection 242. The number refers to the harvest since its founding in 1776. We can thank climate change for the Collection concept, according to Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Roederer’s Chef de Cave. Previously, the struggle in Champagne, and elsewhere, was to achieve ripe grapes. Now the challenge is to maintain acidity and freshness in the grapes to give the wines vivacity. To achieve this, according to Lécaillon, Roederer has focused on specific terroirs, either their own vineyards or from growers, that produce grapes with excellent ripeness in concert with great acidity. In addition, to enhance the wine’s energy, Roederer has started what they call a perpetual reserve of about 15,000 hectoliters (nearly 400,000 U.S. gallons) of wines, half Pinot Noir and half Chardonnay, from the 2013, 2014, 2015, and 2016 vintages, which are aged without exposure to oxygen and have undergone no acid softening malo-lactic fermentation. To put together The Collection 242, Lécaillon’s team used 34 percent of wines from the four reserve vintages, another 10 percent of oak-aged reserve wine from 2009, which imparts a delectable suave creaminess, along with 56 percent of wine from the 2017 vintage. The result is simply stunning. Roederer’s Collection 242 combines a perfectly balance of elegance, freshness, and power. As an aperitif, it stops conversation. And it is ideal to bring to the table because of its richness and liveliness. So, this July 4th bring fireworks to the table and celebrate our country’s independence with Collection 242.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 14, 2022

Marion-Bosser, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV ($55, Loubaton Imports): This producer’s Champagne was previously unknown to me. That’s my loss and I now will try to make up for lost time. Extra Brut Champagne is an extremely tough and expensive category to produce. There can be no compromise on the quality of the grapes because the extremely low dosage means that there’s little sugar to cover up whatever flaws are present. There’s no compromise with this gorgeous example. Unusually full-bodied for a Blanc de Blancs, the elegance of Chardonnay is still clear and compelling. A touch of yeastiness adds complexity without dominating. Long and refined, this is a great way to celebrate the holidays or, frankly, to enhance broiled swordfish. It delivers more than the price suggests.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2014

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) "Grand Vintage" Rosé 2009 ($70):

Great depth of flavor in this wonderful vintage bottling, again delivered at a value price in its category. Yeasty for a rosé, which complements the strawberry and citrus flavors, and lengthens the finish. Very nice bubbly. A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
95 Rich Cook Jun 12, 2018

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) "MCIII, Brut 001.14" NV ($650, Möet Hennessey USA):

This is a strikingly layered Champagne, with countervailing components of maturity and vigor, gentleness and power that come together to form a whole greater than the sum of its parts. Based on what I’ve learned about this new wine after first tasting it blind, my (rather wordy) first sentence suggests, simply, that Möet achieved its objectives before trotting out this remarkable new Cuvée Prestige Champagne. Pulling out all the stops, the winemaking team blended the finished wine (disgorged in 2014, which helps explain the proprietary designation) from six different vintages that were stored in a variety of containment vessels, including wooden foudres. Sold only in magnums (which are widely regarded as the optimum size bottles for the second fermentation and subsequent aging of Champagnes), the packaging is undeniably impressive, with a heavy metal base and a several other striking adornments. Whether these aesthetic flourishes will give pause or pleasure is up to the beholder, but this taster found the wine to be remarkably complex and captivating.
95 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2019

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) "MCIII, Brut 001.14" NV ($650, Möet Hennessey USA):

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage Rose Brut 2004 ($65):

From the outstanding 2004 vintage, this vintage brut rose Champagne from Moet is a seductive charmer, and at a fair price considering the quality. It offers aromas of strawberry and cranberry, with a fine, delicate bead and exceptional length on the palate. Judges at the 2014 Sommelier Challenge in San Diego awarded it a platinum medal and a rating of 95 points. 95 Robert Whitley Sep 23, 2014

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage Brut Rose 2006 ($90): Moet's Grand Vintage Brut Rose is an inspired bubbly, showing a note of cola and strawberry, with a touch of spice and citrus. From the excellent 2006 vintage, serve this superb rose Champagne with roast duck breast or white meats. This Champagne is literally getting better with age, winning a platinum award at both the 2015 and 2016 Critics Challenge International Wine Competitions. 95 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage Brut Rose 2006 ($90):

Moet's Grand Vintage Brut Rose is an inspired bubbly, showing a note of cola and strawberry, with a touch of spice and citrus. From the excellent 2006 vintage, serve this superb rose Champagne with roast duck breast or white meats. Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
95 Robert Whitley May 26, 2015

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut Imperial NV ($41):

Faced with a growing challenge from boutique “grower” Champagne producers, Moet has clearly upped its game. The latest release of Brut Imperial delivers crunchy apple and citrus fruit notes, with a creamy texture and an inviting touch of brioche. This superb Champagne was a Platinum award-winner at the 2017 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 95 Robert Whitley May 30, 2017

Möet & Chandon, Champagne (France) “Grand Vintage” Brut NV ($60, Möet Hennessey): Here's a first class bubbly at a price that could easily be higher. It's very zesty, with lime, toasted bread crust, deep stony minerality and fig notes, and scouring acidity that cleanses, yet leaves a pleasant citrus and fig impression in the lingering finish. This has enough going on to pair with mild fish dishes or scallops. A platinum award winner at the 2014 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. 95 Rich Cook Jun 24, 2014

Nicolas Feuillatte, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($36): This Platinum award-winner at the 11th annual Critics Challenge International Wine Competition is one of the best deals in Champagne these days. The Brut Reserve delivers a suave texture on the palate, with aromas of crunchy apple and brioche, and superb persistence of flavor through a fresh, lively finish. 95 Robert Whitley Jun 17, 2014

Palmer & Co., Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($49):

A new producer to me, and if this is the "house style" at Palmer & Co., I'd say it's a house to explore. This wine walks a tightrope of complexity, leaning toward brioche stone minerality on one side, and a mix of pear, quince and lemon on the other, with neither overtaking the other, but riding together perfectly. A scouring finish that leaves a rich pear impression rounds things off. A true delight, and a value for your dollar. Contains 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier.
95 Rich Cook Sep 6, 2016

Pascal Doquet, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru 2002 ($90, Robert Katcher Selections): Blanc de Blancs Champagne is rare, comprising only about five percent of all Champagne, and expensive since Chardonnay is planted only in the best sites -- on the chalky soils of the small (8,000 acres) of the Côte des Blancs. The Grand Cru moniker means the grapes for this wine came from only the best villages in the Côte des Blancs. The 2002 vintage was a great one for Champagne and it’s rare to see one from that year still available on the retail market. Pascal Doquet’s conveys the impressive combination of intensity and finesse. A subtle creaminess, characteristic of Blanc de Blancs, adds to its suave texture. A firm spine balances the intensity without being aggressive. A persistent and fine, laser-like finish reinforces its grandeur.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2014

Perrier Jouët, Champagne (France) Fleur de Champagne Rosé 2002 ($299, Pernod Ricard USA): Attractive onion skin color offers an initial indication of this fine rose's subtlety and delicacy, and those impressions are reinforced by the soft, broad texture, which is marked by very fine-grained effervescence. Aromas and flavors are subtle but expressive, and the aromatic and flavor components are admirably proportional and effectively integrated, yet quite complex. Anyone shelling out this much money for a bottle of wine has a right to expect something extraordinary, and this wine is up to that task. 95 Michael Franz Jun 9, 2009

Suenen, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut NV ($63): Suenen is a small family run “grower” Champagne producer based in Cramant, one of the top villages in the Champagne region for Chardonnay. The so-called “grower” Champagnes are produced from the family’s own vineyards without relying on purchased grapes as most of the big name houses do. I don’t think you can generalize whether “grower” Champagne is better or not than those bubblies from the big houses. It all depends on the individual producer. Judging from this wine, Suenen is a top producer. Suenen limits the amount of added sugar — hence Extra Brut — so the inherent quality of the wine shines. And does it ever shine. Its creamy luxurious texture caresses the palate while beautifully balancing acidity provides verve and freshness. You’re sad when the bottle’s empty.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 3, 2014

Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Les Folies de la Marquetterie” Brut NV ($80, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

I first tasted and reviewed this wine two years ago, but then showed it in a class on Champagne this week...and it was not only still fresh and well balanced, but vastly more complex after two additional years of ageing in my cellar. Les Folies is a single-vineyard cuvee, presumably one that was introduced in answer to the rise of “grower Champagnes,” which have become sufficiently successful to cause some sleepless nights among managers at the Grandes Marques. Stylistically, it is a bit surprising in the context of Taittinger’s typical profile, as its chief characteristics are richness, depth and complexity, whereas I usually turn to Taittinger for lean, lemony, linear wines. But let me be clear: There’s nothing remotely oafish about les Folies, which is rather assertive for Taittinger but still a very sophisticated, nimble Champagne, even though there’s more bass and a little less treble than one associates with the house.
95 Michael Franz May 19, 2015

Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Comtes de Champagne” Rosé Brut 2005 ($250, Kobrand): Although I remain rather lukewarm regarding the category of Rosé Champagnes, this is an indisputably marvelous wine and a completely convincing rendition of the type. Given the fact that this is--and has always been--a very expensive Champagne, as well as the reality that the common shortcoming of Rosé Champagnes is that they tend to be too big and obvious, this wine proves very surprising with its cool, reserved character. To be clear, it proves very satisfying, but its most impressive attribute is that it doesn’t try too hard to impress in any respect. The aromas are detailed and extremely appealing, yet the fruit- and yeast-based scents are delicate and very well balanced against one another. The flavors show very good depth and persistence, yet they never seem pushy or overt. Moreover, the texture is rich but not heavy, and the mousse is generous but very fine. You’ve probably getting the idea by this point, but it is also worth noting that the wine’s finish is very long, yet it is also perfectly symmetrical and very elegant in the impressions left as it tails off. In sum, this is the sort of wine that seems so intricate that it could not possibly have been made from something as commonplace as grapes.
95 Michael Franz Dec 16, 2014

Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Comtes des Champagne” Blanc de Blancs Brut 2005 ($135, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Taittinger’s top Champagne, Comtes des Champagne is a Blanc de Blancs made from Chardonnay grown exclusively in Grand Cru villages. While the Comtes des Champagne is always one of the great prestige bottlings from the region, the 2005 is particularly noteworthy because it retains incredible vivacity despite the ripeness of that vintage. Toasty and deep, it has the concentration and fullness expected from the warm 2005 growing season, but a verve reminiscent of the electricity of the 2004s. In that regard, it’s the best of both worlds. Its length reinforces its stature as a great wine.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2014

Vazart–Coquart & Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs “Special Club” 2006 ($92, Wasserman Selections):

If you are not familiar with Special Club Champagnes, it's time to introduce your palate to the finesse and elegance of these wines. The group of 26 growers offers high-quality grower wines only in the best vintages. The Vazart-Coquart 2006 shows the elegance and complexity of Special Club bottlings. Vazart-Coquart & Fils is a small grower in the Côte des Blancs village of Chouilly, producing just over 6000 cases a year. It shows the best characteristics of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. The bouquet is pure and vibrant, with lemon, green apple and lime fruits infused with subtle, buttery, yeasty and creamy nuances. The flavors are equally pure and lively, with fresh apple and citrus fruits underlain by the buttery-creamy character of the best Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. The invigorating nature and layered, complex flavors show just how special the Special Club Champagnes can be.
95 Wayne Belding Oct 21, 2014

Vazart-Coquart et Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($52):

Not many producers make a non-vintage Blanc de Blanc Champagne. Fortunately, this small grower does. Made entirely from Chardonnay grown in the Grand Cru village of Chouilly, it’s enticingly creamy and elegant. A delicate toasty, yeasty element just adds to its allure. A brilliant bead of acidity balances the richness. It’s a Champagne that stops you in your tracks.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2017

Autreau de Champillon, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($50, Baron François Imports):

Quality and Champagne are synonymous in my dictionary but not all Champagnes are made the same. This Grand Cru -- read best of the best -- Champagne is zippy and austere with slate minerality and subtle bready notes. What sets this Champagne apart from the competition is the price tag. Still available on the market at $50, this is a steal from Champagne.
94 Vince Simmon Dec 27, 2022

Ayala, Champagne (France) Le Blanc de Blancs 2013 ($76):

Caroline Latrive is one of only four women Cellar Masters in Champagne. She considers herself a major fan of Chardonnay and is particularly pleased with this charming Blanc de Blancs that she describes as the ”essence of Chardonnay.” For this wine she chose a mélange of Chardonnay grapes from Grand Cru vineyards in Cramant, Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Ogier and Premier Cru vineyards in Cuis and Vertus. Six years of age on lees in the cellar add complexity and creaminess. A brilliant, pale golden color suggests exciting things to come like the fine threads of minute bubbles, then the ethereal aromas of citrus, apple blossoms and almonds. Flavors of citrus, freshly baked brioche and red apples mingle with the gentle mousse intensified by incisive acidity. It is somewhat difficult to describe individual elements of this wine because they are so intertwined and harmonious.
94 Rebecca Murphy Dec 29, 2020

Ayala, Champagne (France) Brut “Majeur” NV ($49, Cognac One): For more than a year I’ve been hearing about how good the wines of Ayala have become from my WRO colleague Ed McCarthy, and yet I was

still not adequately prepared for the experience of this wine. It is the single most impressive standard-issue non-vintage brut Champagne that I’ve tasted in years. An extraordinarily dramatic wine, it is explosively aromatic, and virtually billows with scents of fresh bread crust and baker’s yeast, along with toasty, nutty notes. The flavors are mature in their ripeness and depth, and the wine’s relatively deep color also indicates the presence of a significant portion of reserve wines (or a long span of ageing sur pointe, or both). Despite all of these dramatics, the wine remains admirably fresh and balanced rather than heavy or excessively oxidized, and the finish is clean and precise. To be clear: This tastes for all the world like a cuvée prestige, and yet is priced at about half of that category of wines, making this a stunning value in addition to being a stunning wine. 94 Michael Franz May 1, 2012

Ayala, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs 2000 ($65, Cognac One): Ironically, although Ayala is located in Aÿ, the heart of Pinot Noir country in Champagne, its Vintage Blanc de Blancs might be its best Champagne! Actually, considering the fact that it's made from 100% Grands Cru Chardonnay grapes, the 2000 Blanc de Blancs is an excellent value at $65. It is intensely flavored, elegant and refined, with complex flavors of lemon and grapefruit; it is light on the palate, fresh, and utterly delicious. The 2000 Blanc de Blancs has been aged on its lees for six years, and has only 7.5 g/l dosage. Drinking well now, but it should develop even more with a few years of aging. 94 Ed McCarthy Apr 15, 2008

Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) Cuvee des Moines Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($70, Winesellers Ltd.):

One of the most important advances in Champagne in recent years has been the proliferation of 100 percent grand cru cuvees. Besserat de Bellefon's Cuvee des Moines is a splendid example. This blanc de blancs is 100 percent chardonnay grown in the grand cru village of Les Mesnil. With a beautiful nose of brioche and lemon creme, it delivers the same high notes on the palate. Elegant and exquisitely balanced, this is a Champagne that will improve with age, although I suspect most connoisseurs will drink up sooner rather than later.
94 Robert Whitley Feb 16, 2016

Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée des Moines” Blanc de Blancs NV ($70, Winesellers Ltd.):

This is an elegant, lively, lemon focused Blanc de Blancs that shows brioche, tart apple, lemon and stony minerality aromas. The lemon focus really comes to the fore on the palate, showing its youth in its brightness and scouring acidity. With a bit of age, the brioche will come forward and balance the lemon a bit -- not that this is at all necessary. I'd let this sit out of the ice briefly before serving to bring out all its nuance. Even with a few minutes in the glass, the flavors and aromas deepen and lengthen. Well done!
94 Rich Cook Feb 16, 2016

Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée de Moines” Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($62): There are only a hand full of Champagne houses that produce a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs, that revered category of Champagne made exclusively from Chardonnay. I, for one, am glad that Besserat de Bellefon makes one -- it is stunning. Creamy and elegant with a hint of toastiness and straight spine of vibrancy makes this wine a great choice for celebrating. Or, indeed, drinking with broiled swordfish.
94 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016

Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($66, Palm Bay International):

Blanc de Blancs on a Champagne label, unlike on the label of a still wine, actually means something very specific -- the wine was made using only Chardonnay. All Blanc de Blancs are expensive because Chardonnay is in great demand in the Champagne region and most are vintage dated, which adds to the price. So it’s great to find a Blanc de Blancs non-vintage bottling and this one is luxurious. Its creamy elegant texture is striking perhaps because all the grapes came from villages ranked Premier or Grand Cru. Long, balanced and light on the palate, you drink it effortlessly, and seemingly forever. This is a wine for special occasions, or a regular Thursday night.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 29, 2017

Bollinger, Champagne (France) “Special Cuvée” NV ($60, Vintus):

This is always one of my favorite non-vintage Champagnes. It is fresh and lively, with bright apple and zesty crème joined by yeasty, stony accents, racy acidity and a blossoming finish that leaves the apple dancing on your tongue. This year it gets a sleek package upgrade, making it an attractive gift as well. Cheers!
94 Rich Cook Dec 20, 2016

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "Grande Annee" 1992 ($120, Terlato Wines International): I drank the 1992 Grande Année with my New Year's Eve dinner (bucatini pasta with shrimp; roasted, stuffed chicken breast with broccoli rabe) to see how this difficult vintage (especially for Pinot Noir) was performing at the age of 15. I was amazed by its rich aromas and texture, classic Bollinger toasty, biscuity flavors, and long, voluptuous finish. This is a solid Grand Année, a Champagne to drink now, if you are fortunate enough to still own any '92s. Kudos to Bollinger for producing a fine Champagne in a vintage most houses chose to pass up. 94 Ed McCarthy Jan 8, 2008

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Premiere Cuvée, Extra Brut NV ($50, Serendipity Wine Imports):

An elegant presentation, with subtle aromas of brioche, pear, citrus zest and wet stone that translate with panache on the palate. The toasty vibe comes forward slightly, but not covering the zesty fruit character. A definite bargain when it comes to Champagne of this quality.
94 Rich Cook Dec 12, 2017

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Premiere Cuvee Rose NV ($74):

Paillard's non-vintage rose strikes an exquisite balance between roundness and firmness as it exhibits enticing red-berry aromas such as red currant, raspberry, and cherry, with a steely backbone that suggests this wine will cellar extremely well. Paillard believes adding a significant but undisclosed amount of Chardonnay from the Cotes des Blancs contributes vibrancy and longevity to the cuvee. The evidence from the bottle certainly points in that direction.
94 Robert Whitley Mar 25, 2014

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Premiere Cuvee NV ($55):

The Bruno Paillard Premiere blend is a remarkable testimony to patience and meticulous attention to detail. The final blend includes up to 25 vintages from Paillard’s trove of reserve wines, which are held back for the purpose of building richness and depth in these special multi-vintage blends. This release exhibits notes of citrus and crunchy apple, with a touch of brioche, a fine mousse and impressive length on the palate. A steal at this relatively modest price for such a sophisticated Champagne.
94 Robert Whitley Dec 18, 2018

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) “Premier Cuvée Rosé” NV ($60):

A gorgeous Extra Brut Champagne, with ripe strawberry, raspberry and citrus aromas that translate in linear fashion on the tart and tangy palate. There’s a lot of finish push here with the emphasis on mouth-watering freshness and pure fruit expression. A great all-around pairing partner or solo salutation!
94 Rich Cook Dec 3, 2019

Champagne Delamotte, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($65, Vineyard Brands):

This wine is currently beating the pants off of most non-vintage Brut Champagnes from the region’s major houses, so keep this up on your radar. Straddling the line between light- and medium-bodied, it shows more aroma and flavor than one would expect from its “size,” and though it is quite expressive and fully satisfying, there’s still a classy sense of restraint that keeps this fresh and interesting for many sips on end. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.
94 Michael Franz Apr 16, 2019

Champagne Delamotte, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($66, Vineyard Brands):

This terrific Champagne was even more impressive tasted blind than it seemed to me when looking at a press sample in late December of 2021, and it may be that it suffered by comparison to the undoubtedly exceptional Blanc de Blancs bottling, which is a longtime favorite. Considered sight-unseen in a wine competition setting, I was especially impressed by its combination of virtues that don’t usually coexist: Very energetic effervescence and driving flavors, on one hand, with a sense of delicacy and grace as the finish tails off. That’s a very appealing duo: Flash and flair in a single wine, and in the sensory impressions at either end of a single sip. The blend is Chardonnay 55% Pinot Noir 35% Pinot Meunier 10%, and the wine’s energy demonstrated that this can become more complex and creamy if cellared — for those who prefer their Champagnes in that style — or enjoyed immediately who prefer a more assertive presentation. A Platinum Award winner at the 2022 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.
94 Michael Franz Feb 8, 2022

Champagne Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) Vintage Brut 2009 ($75, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Louis Roederer’s Brut Premier and its Cristal gets so much attention that we sometimes forget how good its Vintage Brut is. The 2009 is a sturdy, huge wine, with red fruit aromas dominating. It’s made from 70 percent Pinot Noir and 30 percent Chardonnay. The house uses its outstanding Verzenay Pinot Noir Vineyard in Montagne de Reims as the basis of its Vintage Brut. It is aged for four years in the cellars. I think that, although this 2009 can be consumed now, it will improve with another two/three years of aging, and should age well for another10 years. It’s a classic, rich Louis Roederer Champagne.
94 Ed McCarthy Mar 21, 2017

Charles de Cazanove, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($33, Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.):

“Ethereal” is the word that floated into my head with the first sip of this Champagne. With its delicate floral and mineral aromas and flavors, its harmonious chords of fresh fruit and toasted brioche, its perfect little bubbles and fine finish, it is a beauty. The blend is 10% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier and 60% Pinot Noir. In addition to being a perfect aperitif, this Champagne is complex enough to be a good partner for certain foods: caviar, obviously, but also other lightly salty fare such as smoked salmon, prosciutto and other such classics, and of course robust cheeses such as Parmigiano. Try it also with lobster risotto and — trust me on this — fried chicken (go on, put that Air Fryer you got for Christmas to work).
94 Marguerite Thomas Jan 12, 2021

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Brut NV ($96, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Charles Heidsieck is really on their game with their current releases.

The back label informs that the grapes came mainly from the Grand and Premier Cru villages, respectively, of Oger and Vertus in the Côte des Blancs, the region’s premier locale for Chardonnay. This bottling contains 25 percent reserve wines, that is, wines from previous vintages that allow the winemaker to maintain quality and consistency of the blend. The remainder of the blend came from the 2012 vintage. It spent four years aging on the lees, which increases its complexity. All of that explains why this non-vintage Blanc de Blancs is so riveting. Steely, yet expansive, it blossoms on the palate and in the finish. It demonstrates the elegance of Chardonnay.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2020

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($65):

Charles Heidsieck's Brut Reserve is among the finest non-vintage bruts (excepting the handful of multi-vintage tete de cuvee Champagnes) owing largely to its exceptional stock of reserve wines that make up the blend. The style is toasty and rich, but without losing its all-important backbone and structure.
94 Robert Whitley Dec 30, 2014

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($65, Remy Cointreau):

The sample of this wine that I tasted had a cork that I suspect let some air into the bottle, which normally would serve to spoil the wine. In this case, it simply shows the potential for aging that this bottling has. The cork was pulled with no tell-tale pop, or even a whisper of release of pressure. Sad faces all around, until the wine hit the glass with a full mousse, and though it didn't last too long, the wine showed attractive toasty character that you'd expect, with vibrant lemon, stony minerality and a light oxidative character that the best Champagnes get with years of bottle aging. I don't often give a score like this to a wine that some might call defective, but I think it speaks to the overall quality of the wine that it could show this well under the circumstances.
94 Rich Cook Jan 6, 2015

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($85, Vineyard Brands):

The house of Delamotte Champagne was established by François Delamotte in 1760. It is located in the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, home of Salon Champagne and Krug’s Clos de Menil, obviously, a great place to make wine with the Chardonnay grape. Delamotte belongs to the same company as Salon, producer one of one finest Blanc de Blancs. This Blanc de Blancs is 100% Chardonnay with a small addition of reserve wine. It was fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees as long as four to five years before disgorgement. The result is a lean, crisp, pure, and elegant Chardonnay, perfect with fresh oysters. The Winery has the HVE, short for Haute Valeur Environnementale, a Sustainability certification developed by the French Ministry of Agriculture.
94 Rebecca Murphy Nov 14, 2023

Delamotte, Champagne (France) 1999 ($90): Too bad the exchange rate has gone through the roof because this vintage effort from Delamotte is heading for prestige cuvee territory. That's the down side. The upside is that it's a vintage Champagne that can compete on a par with tetes de cuvee Champagnes. This 100 percent Chardonnay bubbly delivers impressive power and length, coupled with remarkable elegance and fine bubbles, making for a memorable Champagne that will almost make you forget the hefty price. 94 Robert Whitley Mar 11, 2008

G.H. Mumm, Champagne (France) Cordon Rouge NV ($41):

The turnaround at Mumm is old news by now, but it still bears mention that this popular Champagne house renewed its commitment to quality more than a decade ago and hasn't taken its foot off the gas pedal since. The current release of Cordon Rouge epitomizes the rich, toasty house style that once made Mumm one of the most popular Champagnes in America. Platinum award winner at the 2015 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Robert Whitley May 26, 2015

Gosset, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Extra Brut “Celebris” NV ($230, Palm Bay Imports): I don't want to get involved in the Apstein/ Franz feud over wine prices,

but this Champagne does seem almost obscenely expensive, particularly considering that it is a non-vintage blend. Yet it also is the finest Champagne I have tasted over the past year, and that includes a line-up of excellent vintage-dated ones sampled for a magazine article last fall. Made entirely from Chardonnay, with a low level of dosage, the wine tastes very dry and wonderfully complex, with flavors that range from apple and citrus fruit to buttered toast, brioche and more. Its finish is wonderfully long and ever-changing, and its bouquet proves truly compelling. I suspect it will age gracefully and improve with a few years of cellaring, as it tasted even better the day after it was opened. Given the price tag, this definitely is a special-occasion wine. The quality is so high, however, that it surely will make whatever occasion that is seem even more special. 94 Paul Lukacs Apr 1, 2008

Henriot, Champagne (France) Brut 2005 ($78, Henriot, USA): Henriot is one of the most under-rated of the major Champagne producers. Their prestige bottling, Les Enchanteleurs, is consistently a stunning wine. And their vintage bottling never disappoints. This 2005 has the ripeness of the vintage offset by uplifting, not aggressive, acidity. Creamy and precise, it has exceptional length and richness. It’s a real treat. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012

Henriot, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($68, Maisons & Domaines Henriot America):

The Champagne house of Henriot was founded in 1808 and prides itself on being “one of the few remaining family-owned houses with over two hundred years of independence.” Their focus is Chardonnay, with a mission of creating the purest expression of the grape. Their core wine is this non-vintage, or more precisely, multi-vintage, 100 percent Chardonnay, Blanc de Blancs or, trans-literated, “white from whites.” The grapes for this wine come primarily from the villages of Mesnil-sur-Oger and Avize in the Côte des Blancs. It is indeed a finely-focused wine exhibiting the elegance and sophistication of Chardonnay in perhaps its finest form, a sparkling wine. Its pale gold color sparkles with tiny bubbles threading their way to the surface. The aromas of citrus, peach and chalky, dusty mineral notes are followed by intertwined flavors of peach, brioche and fresh floral notes. The fine bubbles and bright, crisp acidity highlight the lingering flavors that lead to a long, palate cleansing finish. Sigh. I need another sip.
94 Rebecca Murphy May 5, 2020

Jean Diot, Champagne (France) Extra Brut NV ($50):

This bone-dry Champagne from Jean Diot delivers exceptional complexity, showing notes of freshly baked brioche, crunchy green apple and spice. The structure is a remarkable combination of firm acidity and creamy texture, with excellent persistence of flavor through a long, lip-smacking finish.
94 Robert Whitley Nov 12, 2019

Laherte Freres, Champagne (France) Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut NV ($57, Victory Wine Group):

Established in 1889 by Jean-Baptiste Laherte, the family now has 11 hectares (27.18 acres) of vineyards located in Coteaux Sud d’Epernay, Côte des Blancs and Vallée de la Marne. Seventh generation family member Aurélien Laherte is the winemaker. The beautiful deep rose “come hither” color is seductive. The tiny, prolific bubbles are cheerful and the aromas of strawberry, raspberry, cranberry fruit laced with notes of orange zest, brioche and seashell are lush, enlivened by lively acidity. Share it with someone special and watch the sparks fly! The process for creating this unique wine is complex. It is 100 percent Pinot Meunier grapes from 30 year old vines. 60 percent of the cuvée is white wine from Meunier, including wood-aged reserve wines. 10 percent is red wine and 30 percent macerated Meunier for additional color and fresh fruit flavors. Fermentation is conducted in oak barrels, vats and foudres.
94 Rebecca Murphy Mar 14, 2023

Le Chemin du Roi, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($165):

This non-vintage Brut from Champagne shows notes of toasted brioche, Meyer lemon and crunchy green apple, with excellent depth and good persistence through the finish. A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Dec 29, 2020

Le Chemin du Roi, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($325):

Produced by Champagne Castelnau and marketed with the help of Curtis “50 Cent” Jackson, this Rosé shows light toast, soft herbs, strawberry and delicate cherry aromas and flavors, a soft scouring texture and a long, well integrated finish. The bottle is quite the showpiece, so if you’re looking to impress, you can’t go wrong here. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.
94 Rich Cook Feb 9, 2021

Le Chemin du Roi, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($165, Sire Spirits):

This multi-vintage Champagne is quite consistent, and it seems to be improving as it spends a little more time in the bottle. Aimed at a particular market niche, it delivers traditional yeasty Champagne character in a highly stylized packaging set. It has the potential to bring two worlds together over goodness. I’ll drink to that! A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Rich Cook Oct 5, 2021

Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs “Perle” Brut NV ($75, Vintage '59 Imports):

Lilbert is one of the best-kept secrets in Champagne, and since I am in the sustained habit of actually buying the wines, it is contrary to me self-interest to make them any better-known. But this is the season for giving, so here we go: The Lilbert family makes nothing but Grand Cru, Chardonnay-based Champagnes from their own vineyards, which are largely located in prized sites around the famous village of Cramant. They riddle the bottles by hand, disgorge without freezing, and produce about 2,150 cases per year. (By way of context, Moët & Chandon makes about 25 million cases per year.) Out of this tiny total production, the rarest of the three wines is this “Perle” bottling, which is a non-vintage Champagne finished with gentler effervescence than ordinary Champagnes, which enhances the overall impression of delicacy that characterizes all Lilbert wines. Lean, fresh and mineral in character, with a striking elegance that never seems faint or austere, this is arguably the perfect aperitif wine and a wonderfully distinctive Champagne. The current release lot of this wine is the best I've ever tasted.
94 Michael Franz Dec 26, 2017

Marc Hébrart, Champagne (France) “Special Club” Brut 2014 ($106, Skurnik Wines):

The Special Club Champagnes are special indeed. The group of growers who contribute wines with this designation offers high-quality grower wines only in the best vintages. The Marc Hébrart 2014 shows the elegance and complexity of Special Club bottlings. Marc Hébrart is a small grower in the village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and one of the 27 artisan producers of Special Club Champagnes. It is an enticing and elegant example of fine Champagne. The bouquet is pure and vibrant, with lemon, green apple and lime fruits infused with subtle, buttery, yeasty and creamy nuances. The flavors are equally pure and lively, with fresh apple, pear and citrus fruits underlain by the buttery-creamy character the Chardonnay adds to the blend. The invigorating nature and layered, complex flavors show just how special the Special Club Champagnes can be.
94 Wayne Belding Apr 26, 2022

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) “Rosé Imperial” NV ($50):

Always a winner, this iteration of Möet’s non-vintage Rosé Champagne scores again, with tart strawberry, mild toastiness, freshening acidity and a long, integrated finish. A go-to sparkling Rosé for decades on end, and a Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jun 18, 2019

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) “Imperial" Brut NV ($40):

The workhorse is the workhorse for a reason -- it gets the job done, so you go back to it again and again. Always one of the better buys in Champagne, and one that you can easily find. Celebrate with its crisp, classic style. Yeasty, mixed citrus and a stony streak that holds it all together. A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jun 5, 2018

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Rosé “Imperial" NV ($50):

One of the best values in Rosé Champagne, with bright strawberry and citrus, a fine mousse and a long finish that keeps you coming back for more. Very tasty stuff! A Platinum Award Winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Rich Cook Jun 5, 2018

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage Brut 2006 ($65): Moet has been on a roll of late with its Grand Vintage Brut Champagne. The 2004 was superb and the 2006 is every bit as good. On the nose it offers a note of toast and brioche, with a hint of lemon. But it's on the palate that the '06 struts its stuff, exhibiting crunchy apple fruit with firm backbone wrapped around a creamy mid-palate. The tension between those two worlds is stunning. A platinum award-winner at the 2016 Critics Challenge. 94 Robert Whitley Mar 22, 2016

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Grand Vintage Brut 2006 ($65):

Moet has been on a roll of late with its Grand Vintage Brut Champagne. The 2004 was superb and the 2006 is every bit as good. On the nose it offers a note of toast and brioche, with a hint of lemon. But it's on the palate that the '06 struts its stuff, exhibiting crunchy apple fruit with firm backbone wrapped around a creamy mid-palate. The tension between those two worlds is stunning. A panel of advanced and master sommeliers gave this wine a Platinum award and a score of 94 points at the 7th annual Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition. 94 Robert Whitley Sep 15, 2015

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut Imperial NV ($41):

Faced with a growing challenge from boutique “grower” Champagne producers, Moet has clearly upped its game. The latest release of Brut Imperial delivers crunch apple and citrus fruit notes, with a creamy texture and an inviting touch of brioche. This superb Champagne was a Platinum award-winner at the 2016 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition. 94 Robert Whitley Sep 20, 2016

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut Imperial Rose NV ($50): Moet's Rose Imperial seems to have taken a leap forward in recent years if this non-vintage cuvee is any indication. The red-fruit aromas are subtle but enticing, the color pale but refined, and the palate elegant and exquisite. It has a fairly generous 30 to 40 percent Pinot Meunier in the blend (the rest is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), which to me lends an earthy note I find attractive and pleasing. 94 Robert Whitley Jun 17, 2014

Olivier Marteaux, Champagne (France) à Azy-sur-Marne “Rosé de Saignée” Extra Brut 2016 ($62, Potomac Selections):

In France, there is always an exception. Rosé Champagne is one of the only regions in the world to make Rosé wines by blending fully macerated wines together. Olivier Marteaux took the road less traveled. This Champagne is made in the Saignée method in which, during the process of macerating a red wine, a portion of the juice is removed or “bled” from tanks during from the process. This leaves a higher skin-to-juice ratio in the remaining macerating wine, thus creating a more bold red wine while the also creating a separate Rosé wine. To make things even more interesting, this winery is using 100% Pinot Munier, a grape that is relatively uncommon outside the region and rarely flies solo within it. With a deep pink color, this Champagne presents red fruit, strawberry and raspberry notes but while also showing celery seed, chalk, and leather conditioning oils. This Rosé Champagne is unusual, and deliciously so.
94 Vince Simmon Oct 24, 2023

Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Brut NV ($90, Quintessential Wines):

The grapes for this 100 percent Chardonnay come from Villers-Marmery and Trepail, two 1er Cru villages in the Montagne de Reims, a region otherwise known for Pinot Noir, and the Côte de Sézanne, a sub-region of Champagne just south of the Côte des Blancs. The soil of the Côte de Sézanne is less chalky than that of the Côte des Blancs, which accounts for the relative fullness in the wines from this area. Penetrating acidity balances and supports the extra oomph, which likely comes from the origin of the grapes, this Blanc de Blancs displays. Five years of lees-aging also helps explain its complexity. A fuller style of Blanc de Blancs, Palmer’s is wonderfully engaging and another example of a Champagne equally well-suited for the dinner table.
94 Michael Apstein May 18, 2021

Palmer & Co., Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($75, TRU Estates):

A fine non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne, with elegant apple and pear aromas complemented by light brioche and lemon zest. The flavor profile is complex, and it freshens the palate with linear delivery of the nose elements and a lively finish with solid integration. This would be a finessed toasting glass, and is up to winter soup and salad courses.
94 Rich Cook Dec 18, 2018

Palmer & Co., Champagne (France) “Grands Terroirs” Vintage Brut 2015 ($145, Quintessential):

The Champagnes from the house of Palmer are all very generous in flavor and richness, and my personal opinion is that only an ideologue who is fixated on austerity in this category could fail to love them. Admittedly, the Blanc de Blancs doesn’t have the sharp edging that one might expect in that category, yet its sheer deliciousness obviates that consideration in my view. This 2015 Vintage Brut is more in line with general expectations, especially from a warmer-than-usual growing season, yet again it is the wine’s generosity of aroma and abundance of flavor that makes it so obviously endearing. The aromatic balance of yeasty and fruity notes is just right, and cellaring will bring mineral notes into the mix that will make this even more complex. However, if you love your Champagnes full of foamy fun and flavor, there’s no reason to wait, and every reason to dive in now. And by “now” I mean before Valentine’s Day, so that you’ll know what to re-purchase as that occasion approaches.
94 Michael Franz Jan 9, 2024

Palmer & Co., Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($49):

You will search a long time before you find a more exceptional non-vintage brut Champagne at this price. The Palmer brut reserve utilizes up to 35 percent reserve wines in the cuvee, with about 50 percent sourced from grand cru or premier cru vineyards. The combination of richness and complexity with freshness is stunning. Aged four years on the lees, the result is a Champagne that delivers notes of vanilla and brioche along with aromas of ripe pear and crunchy apple. The balance and length are exquisite.
94 Robert Whitley Aug 23, 2016

Perrier Jouët, Champagne (France) “Belle Époque” Brut 2004 ($135, Pernod-Ricard): The “flower bottle,” as this Champagne is affectionately called, is Perrier Jouët’s prestige bottling. Don’t be fooled by its lighter style. The gorgeous nose predicts greatness and you’re not disappointed. Refined and persistent, its class and stature sneaks up on you. Not flamboyant, it’s still a showstopper. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012

Philippe Fontaine, Champagne (France) “Cuvée des Lys” Blanc de Blancs Brut 2016 ($78, JP Bourgeois):

Philippe Fontaine's “Cuvée des Lys” is vintage-dated 100% Pinot Blanc, super-rare, and utterly quaffable. Pinot Blanc finds a home in the Côte des Bar region of Champagne's Aube sub-district. Like still Pinot Blancs, it is fresh, crisp, and elegant. This crowd-pleaser is loaded with flavor. It delivers a mouthwatering spread of pineapple, green apple, white peach, citrus blossoms, pear, cinnamon, and almond. The palate comes alive with delicate, refreshing, and persistent perlage. A serious, gastronomic Champagne, it will work well at any table.
94 Miranda Franco Dec 27, 2022

Pierre Moncuit, Champagne (France) Delos Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($60, Vintage '59):

The Champagne house of Pierre Moncuit was founded in 1889 in the Côte des Blancs village of Mesnil. It is still a family business with Nicole Moncuit, her daughter Valérie and brother Yves running the operation. While most Champagne growers replant vineyards after 20 to 30 years to maximize yield, Moncuit is a rare house that sources the majority of their grapes from their 50+ year old vines. Sourced from their Grand Cru vineyards in Mesnil, their Extra Brut bottling is exquisite. It shows the best characteristics of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. The bouquet shows pure, apple and lemon fruits with toasty, yeasty and creamy nuances. On the palate, it is vivid, lively and layered with lemon curd, green apple and citrus tones interwoven with the creamy and yeasty elements. The overall experience is harmonious and invigorating – the essence of finesse and complexity. Production of the Extra Brut is limited, but it is worth the effort to search for it.
94 Wayne Belding Dec 27, 2022

Pommery, Champagne (France) 'Brut Millesime Grand Cru' 1999 ($85, Vranken Pommery America):

Pommery's vintage Grand Cru combines the house emphasis on elegance and finesse with the richness and power of this particular vintage. The delicate aromatics of citrus fruits and spring flowers are a mere hint of what is to come. On the palate this vintage Pommery, blended from seven separate grand cru vineyards, shows power and depth, with uncommon complexity and a very long finish. An impressive Champagne that will improve over the decade to come.

Pommery, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Louise” Brut 2004 ($100):

Cuvée Louise is Pommery’s top of the line Champagne. Made from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from three Grand Cru villages, the 2004 is stunning, combining power and elegance. The elegance comes from the Chardonnay and persists throughout the extraordinary finish. The power, from the Pinot Noir, sneaks up on you in a very pleasant way. It’s a long and refined wine, which is hard to put down. And, as prices go for “tête de cuvee” Champagne, as these super-premium bottlings are known, it’s a bargain.
94 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2017

Pommery & Greno, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé “Royal" NV ($64, Vranken Pommery America):

Pommery’s luxurious Rosé reinforces the notion that Champagne stands head and shoulder above other sparkling Rosés. The delicate salmon-pink color pleases they eye, but the real pleasure comes from the first whiff and sip. It delivers an impeccable balance of subtle, but persistent, wild strawberry-like nuances and creamy citrus ones. It has plenty of weight without a trace of heaviness. It floats on the palate. Celebrate with it and/or put it on the table with grilled salmon.
94 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2024

Ruinart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($60, Moët Hennessy USA): Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house, some how fails to garner the attention it deserves. That’s a shame because their Champagne is flat out classy. Made entirely from Chardonnay (the definition of blanc de blancs), this one conveys an elegance and luxurious creaminess usually found only in the so-called “prestige” bottlings. It’s like drinking silk. 94 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010

André Clouet, Champagne (France) Grande Réserve Brut NV ($47): André Clouet, a small grower located in Bouzy, a village prized for its Pinot Noir, makes this extraordinary non-vintage Champagne exclusively from that grape. Combine six years of aging on the lees with that grape produces this wonderfully powerful Champagne. Despite its muscle, there’s startling finesse and refinement that balances the nutty yeasty flavors. A fine thread of acidity pulls it all together. Sure, you can celebrate with it, but you could also serve it with poached salmon at brunch.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2015

André Tixtier & Fils, Champagne (France) Premier Cru, Millésime 2012 ($139, Avid Wines):

Super fine bubbles in a bright, golden liquid, offer the promise of pleasurable sensations to come, like yeasty, fresh brioche, citrus and hazelnut aromas. The fine bubbles on the palate are gentle, yet tantalizing, mingling with the lacey, citrus fruit of Chardonnay (50%), light notes of raspberry and finesse from Pinot Noir (35%) and berry, floral, spicy, meaty notes from Pinot Meunier (15%). It is a seamless union of flavors into a voluptuous, rich, creamy, yeasty, mouthwatering wine. Enjoy with someone special, or someone you want to be special.
93 Rebecca Murphy Jun 30, 2020

Ayala, Champagne (France) "Cuvée Rosé Nature Brut" NV ($85, Cognac One): This is an extremely unusual Champagne: a Rosé Brut Zero! The importer believes that Ayala has the only Rosé Brut Zero in the U.S., and he might be right. Whether it's the only one or not, it's a knockout Rosé! Pale salmon in color, it's made from 53% Chardonnay and 47% Pinot Noir (8% of which was still red wine from old Pinot Noir vines). It's the best Rosé Champagne I've tasted in quite a while. Most rosé Champagnes are a bit too round and mellow for me; not Ayala's Rosé Nature Brut. It is lively, and just sings on the palate with tart strawberry fruit flavors. It is very elegant and light-bodied for a rosé, and yet has lots of complexity. The Rosé Nature Brut has been aged on its lees for four years, and is made from Grands and Premier Cru grapes only. It's packaged in a beautiful Prestige Cuvée-type bottle. This is Ayala's newest and most exciting Champagne. 93 Ed McCarthy Apr 22, 2008

Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($50, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): Founded in 1834, this family firm is, as seems to be the tradition in Champagne, run currently by a woman, Evelyne Roques-Boizel. A Pinot Noir dominant (55%) blend, Boizel’s non-vintage bottling offers a ying/yang combination of earthy intensity and freshness. Inclusion of a healthy dose (20%) of reserve wines from previous vintages helps explain its length and class. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012

Boizel, Champagne (France) 2007 ($81, Palm Bay International):

A blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (40%) and Pinot Meunier, Boizel’s 2007 Champagne combines power and elegance. The wonderful spine of acidity, reflective of the vintage, balances the wine’s power perfectly. The impeccable balance of concentration and grace allows you to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitif or with food.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 29, 2017

Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut 2002 ($70, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): 2002 is a great year for Champagne. And fortunately for us consumers, a few, like this one, are still on the market. It’s earthy and intense, in a very good way, with cutting acidity that keeps it fresh and lively. Its complexity comes, no doubt, from being recently disgorged, having stayed on its lees for a decade. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012

Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($60, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): A delicate salmon pink color catches your eye and then the captivating wild strawberry-like flavors grab your attention. This is a serious Rosé, dry, with layers of flavors and great length. It’s a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif and vigorous enough to bring to the table to accompany delicately smoked salmon. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012

Bollinger, Champagne (France) Rosé NV ($85, Terlato Wines International):

This non-vintage rosé bottling from the great house of Bollinger is relatively new. Although I had not tasted it previously, I’ve tried it three times during the past couple of weeks, and there is no mistaking its excellence. As one would expect from this house, the wine is full-bodied for a Champagne and very deeply flavored, yet it never seems heavy or obvious, as the dosage is very well integrated, the effervescence is quite delicate, and the finishing acidity provides lift and freshness. A very impressive wine that could partner effectively with many foods, but which can also stand alone for sipping with great pleasure. 93 Michael Franz Jun 21, 2011

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "Special Cuvee" NV ($55, Terlato Wines International): Bollinger's non-vintage Special Cuvée is very dry, with complex, toasty flavors. It is full-bodied, and needs a large glass to really appreciate its aromas and all of its nuances of flavor. Its flavors linger several moments on the palate. Perfect to have throughout dinner. One of the great Champagnes available in the under-$75 category. The Special Cuvée will age well for many years, and will only get better. 93 Ed McCarthy Jul 22, 2008

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "Grande Annee" 1999 ($100, Terlato Wines International): Weather was fine in Champagne in 1999, leading to an abundant crop. The 1999 Grande Année is a bit softer and more approachable than most Bollinger Vintage Champagnes; it can be enjoyed now and for several more years, but will not have the longevity of such vintages as the 1988, 1995 or 1996. The 1999 is intense and concentrated, with typical Bollinger toasty, biscuity flavors, showing a touch of maturity. Classic Bollinger. 93 Ed McCarthy Jan 8, 2008

Brion Wise, Champagne (France) Brut 2015 ($175, Heritage):

It is becoming increasingly popular for American wineries to produce wines under a variety of arrangements from other countries, either here or there, and market them under their domestic labels. Brion Wise, who is planning his own winery in Napa Valley, here launches a premium vintage Champagne produced in collaboration with A.D. Coutelas in the village of Dizy. Disgorged in March 2022, it is a 50/50 Pinot/Chardonnay blend that is very frothy with the lovely golden aromas and flavors of age and aging – grain, spent yeasts, vanilla, lemon peel, caramel in the lightest degree, metallic minerality, all delivered in a creamy package with light tannins. The flavors are truly divine, although the structure lacks intensity at mid-palate and could linger a bit longer in the finish.
93 Roger Morris Jan 2, 2024

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Extra Brut “Premiére Cuvée" NV ($55):

In Champagne as well as in the top flight bubbly houses the world over, the multi vintage bottling are built to present house style in a consistent manner year after year regardless of whether a particular vintage presents difficulties or not. Bruno Paillard is certainly successful in this pursuit. The Extra Brut, (or low/no dosage) character really shows here, but the mellow oak from a high percentage of reserve wine in the blend shines through, leaving a lingering toasty impression over lemon, apple and stony minerality. As Extra Brut Champagne goes, this is a full flavored example, and a personal favorite in the category. Contains 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 22% Pinot Meunier.
93 Rich Cook Dec 21, 2021

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Brut Premiere Cuvee NV ($55):

Bruno Paillard is a man after my own heart, for he believes a Champagne house is only as good as its non-vintage brut, which for most of them defines the house style and contributes mightily to the bottom line. "For this wine it is a severe selection," he told me recently. "We use only the first pressing. We even print that on the label." In other words, Paillard gives his Brut Premiere Cuvee his best shot, and it shows. This wine is meant for pleasure, with a gorgeous nose of citrus and stone fruits. On the palate it is fresh and balanced, with complex aromas and flavors that evolve as it sits in the glass. Paillard Brut Premiere also shows a chalky minerality that is distinctive and ever-present in all of the Champagnes of the house.
93 Robert Whitley Mar 25, 2014

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) Rosé “Premiére Cuvée” NV ($85, Serendipity Wines):

Very bright cherry and strawberry fruit, graham cracker and a hint of lemon zest entice the nose, and ride racy acidity on the palate, where the aromas become flavors in lively, well integrated fashion, and finish zesty and clean, with a nice strawberry impression remaining. A great aperitif, or a fine pairing for salads or mild cheeses.
93 Rich Cook Nov 15, 2016

Castelnau, Champagne (France) “Le Chemin du Roi” Brut Rosé NV ($299):

Although this is eye-popping in both packaging and price, it is a strong performer that arguably follows through in terms of performance. Blended from 54% Pinot Meunier, 40% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, with a portion of the Pinot added as still red wine to take it to the desired level of pigmentation (a common practice in Champagne), it is quite flavorful but with the class and restraint that one would expect from a premium offering from the region. Yeasty for a Rosé Champagne relative to the more fruit-driven norm, this is still very successful, and more distinctive than many higher-end specimens of the breed for this reason.
93 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2023

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Réserve Brut NV ($65): This wine was re-designed about seven years ago, and it is an object lesson in how good the house of Charles Heidsieck has become at every level. A multi-vintage blend that includes fully 40% of reserve wines, many of them more than 10 years old, it packs one of the most powerful and layered bouquets of

any Champagne you can buy at any price. At the risk of belaboring the obvious, I should observe the word “bouquet” should only be used as a wine descriptor when--as in a floral arrangement--it describes a bundle of many distinct things. That is indeed the case with the seriously complex, layered scents given off by this wine. The flavors are also very deep, rich and impressive. Although the wine’s finish isn’t flawed in any way, one must say that it doesn’t quite live up to the aromas and flavors of the wine, though that is really just another way of saying that this is a Champagne that smells and tastes amazing. If you love rich, mature Champagnes more than ones that are fluffy and fresh (like, say, Taittinger NV Brut), this is a wine you really must try.
93 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2019

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé Reserve NV ($80, Folio Fine Wine Partners): A gorgeous non-vintage Rosé, with lively strawberry, citrus floral and brioche aromas that lead to a palate that's bright and fresh, with scouring acidity and a zesty finish that leaves a long lemon impression. A classy glass!
93 Rich Cook Oct 4, 2016

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($65, Rémy Cointreau USA):

This terrific Champagne is really more like a cuvée de prestige than a standard non-vintage brut, though in retail stores it is priced closer to the latter than the former. Fully 40% of the contents of the beautiful bottle is comprised of reserve wines, and after the second fermentation, it was aged for more than three years on its yeast lees after the second fermentation was performed in 2008, and the bottle reviewed here was from a lot disgorged in 2012 (as indicated on the back label). Rich and packed with flavor, this is a model of balance between aged complexity and foamy freshness, as well as a remarkable blending achievement.
93 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2013

Chartogne-Taillet, Champagne (France) Brut “Cuvée Sainte Anne” NV ($56, Skurnik Wines):

Alexandre Chartogne of Chartogne-Taillet is at the helm of an estate that stretches back to the late 1600s. Chartogne’s NV Brut Cuvée Sainte Anne of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and 10% Pinot Meunier offers brilliant richness and balance. The significant presence of red grapes gives the wine its expansive frame and concentrated palate. It provides an incredibly balanced combination of striking complexity, rich fruit, and minerality that is nearly unrivaled in this price range.
93 Miranda Franco Mar 14, 2023

Clos du Château de Bligny, Champagne (France) “Cuvée 6 Cépages” Brut Nature NV ($111, Lapham Import Company):

This would be an excellent wine to drink even if it didn’t have a great back story. Which is, it claims to be the only Champagne that uses all the grape varieties permitted in making Champagne. In addition to having equals parts each of the big 3 – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – it also contains one-sixth each of Arbane, Pinot Blanc and Petit Meslier. The wine itself has lovely aromas of straw and meadow flowers, very good structure, and flavors of rich apples with hints of lemon and lime and the requisite crisp finish. A conversation starter that will be interrupted by “ahhs” of appreciation.
93 Roger Morris Jun 6, 2023

Daniel Dumont, Champagne (France) “Grande Réserve” NV ($60, The Artisan Collection): I have exactly no prior experience with this producer, but tasting this wine on two separate occasions has left me hugely impressed. Although the price tag looks rather steep for a non-vintage brut, the wine actually performs more like a Cuvée de Prestige, and in terms of balance between freshness and the complexities lent by reserve wines, it really lives up to its moniker of “Grande Réserve.” Medium-bodied, it is one of the most precisely proportioned Champagnes I have tasted all year, indicating that there’s some outstanding blending talent in residence at this house.
93 Michael Franz Nov 26, 2013

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Rosé NV ($106, Vineyard Brands):

This is a seriously delicious wine, and the accent falls on each of those last three words. Seriously concentrated, it is strikingly rich for a Champagne house that is located in the heart of the region’s Chardonnay district. “Delicious” is an entirely uncontroversial descriptor, as the broadly fruity flavors recall perfectly ripened strawberries with juicy, fresh suggestions of pomegranate. Finally, to my taste, this succeeds even more as a wine than a Champagne, as its richness is coupled with a textural softness due to quite gentle effervescence. Indeed, this is better suited as a vinous partner for food than for use as an aperitif Champagne. Very impressive.
93 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2021

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($45, Vineyard Brands):

Of the widely available non-vintage Bruts from Champagne in this holiday season, this is my current favorite. It was a major star when I tasted it in early spring at the San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge, and another look 10 days ago vindicated my very enthusiastic judgment from earlier in the year. Really just medium-bodied but with very deep, persistent flavors, it is quite satisfying but stays fresh sip after sip, revealing additional nuances if permitted to warm a bit in the glass. That will require patience you may find it difficult to summon after your first sip.
93 Michael Franz Dec 17, 2019

Delouvin Nowack, Champagne (France) Rosé Brut "Carte Rubis" NV ($50):

Champagne is usually made using three grapes — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay tend to be the stars of Champagne. At the same time, Meunier is considered the workhorse grape, giving Champagne a richer texture and bright fruit notes, and its low tannin content also helps soften Champagne. However, wine growers have recently started offering the Meunier grape more attention, giving way to 100% Meunier Champagnes of note. One example is the Delouvin-Nowack "Carte Rubis" Rosé Brut NV, made from 100 percent Pinot Meunier. It is vibrant on the palate with great freshness and floral aromas. The palate is gorgeously textured, bristling with notes of red cherries, blood orange, grapefruit zest, strawberry, raspberry, finely crushed chalk, and a soft touch of wild herbs.
93 Miranda Franco May 16, 2023

Eric Rodez, Champagne (France) “Cuvée de Crayères” NV ($85, AP Wine Imports):

If you admire Champagne Krug, it stands to reason that Eric Rodez will capture your interest. Previously the cellarmaster at Krug, Rodez has gone on to bottle some of the most sought-after grower Champagnes. Based in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay (he was also mayor there for over twenty years), Eric is the eighth generation of his family to grow vines in Champagne. Rodez's NV Brut Cuvée des Crayeres is made with roughly equal proportions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is loaded with vibrant orchard fruit, hazelnuts, lemon rind, and a whisper of brioche. It's utterly invigorating and full of bright acidity, powerful minerality, and extraordinary length and detail.
93 Miranda Franco Apr 25, 2023

Forget-Brimont, Champagne (France) Premier Cru Brut NV ($45, HB Wine Merchants): A

new producer to me, and based on this, one to keep an eye on. A blend of grand cru and premier cru fruit, it displays fresh baked bread, stone, lemon and faint nut aromas, with just a touch of autolysis adding depth to the nose. On the palate, it's fresh, dry and cleansing, delivering flavors the nose leads you to expect, and finishing long and nicely integrated. A delight!
93 Rich Cook Jun 14, 2016

Gardet, Champagne (France) Blanc de Noirs Brut Premier Cru NV ($45):

Those who prefer powerful Champagnes should search for Gardet’s Blanc de Noirs. Made from a blend of red grapes -- Pinot Noir (60%) and Pinot Meunier -- grown in the premier cru village of Hautvillers, this is a powerhouse coupled with uncommon elegance. The combination is captivating. Four to five years aging on the lees (spent yeast) explains a warm toasty feeling this Champagne delivers. One sip makes you stand up and take notice. Yes, it’s fine as an aperitif, but it’s even more enjoyable with a meal. I’d happily drink it with a roast chicken or even a steak.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 9, 2016

Georges Laval, Champagne (France) “Brut Nature” NV ($85, Transatlantic Bubbles): Georges Laval makes, what’s known in the industry, as “grower” Champagne. That is, he makes Champagne from grapes grown in his own vineyards. That’s in contrast to the big houses that own relatively little land and buy grapes from growers throughout the Champagne region. Laval, based in Cumières, a village granted premier cru status, uses equally proportions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from his 10 acres of vineyards there for this Brut Nature Champagne. In the Brut Nature bottling, he uses very little dosage, which allows the purity of flavors of grapes and the land to shine. This is both a powerful (Pinot Noir speaking) and refined (Chardonnay speaking) Champagne that seemingly goes on forever. Sure, you can drink it to celebrate, but don’t forget it you can bring it to the table and drink it throughout a meal.
93 Michael Apstein May 13, 2014

Gosset, Champagne (France) Brut "Grande Millésime" 2000 ($100, Palm Bay International): The most recent renditions of this wine, made from the 1996 and 1999 vintages, were both terrific, and this 2000 bottling is a worthy successor from this top house. An extremely expressive bouquet is followed by deep, rooty flavors that show lots of Pinot notes but also some lighter shades from top-class Chardonnay. Toasty but not distractingly so, it is very nicely balanced and impressively long, with a vigorous but delicate mousse of very small bubbles. 93 Michael Franz Dec 21, 2010

Gosset, Champagne (France) Grande Réserve Brut NV ($65, Palm Bay International): Gosset has long been known as a source for big, assertive, deeply flavored Champagnes, and this wine fits that description perfectly. A blend that proves remarkably consistent across multiple releases over the years, it offers dramatic aromas with plenty of yeasty notes and positive oxidative scents. The palate follows through with excellent balance between fruit notes, biscuity flavors, and bright finishing acidity. The effervescence is abundant but delicate in texture, and the overall impression left by the wine is one of carefully measured power and deeply convincing deliciousness.
93 Michael Franz Dec 16, 2014

Gosset, Champagne (France) Grande Réserve Brut NV ($75, Palm Bay International):

Gosset has long been known as a source for big, assertive, deeply flavored Champagnes, and this wine fits that description perfectly. A blend that proves remarkably consistent across multiple releases over the years, it offers dramatic aromas with plenty of yeasty notes and positive oxidative scents. The palate follows through with excellent balance between fruit notes, biscuity flavors, and bright finishing acidity. The effervescence is abundant but delicate in texture, and the overall impression left by the wine is one of carefully measured power and deeply convincing deliciousness. One might wonder whether it is worth spending more to buy this wine rather than a simple non-vintage Brut from a house with a strong reputation. The answer is...yes...this tastes much more like a $125 Cuvée de Prestige Champagne than a regular release wine.
93 Michael Franz Dec 26, 2017

Guy Charlemagne, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($72, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):

Ironically, Guy Charlemagne who is located in Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of Champagne’s great sites for Chardonnay, makes this fabulous Rosé entirely from Pinot Noir. Yes, it’s a gloriously rich powerhouse, yet it is balanced and not overdone. Red fruit springs from the glass, caresses the palate, and seemingly lasts forever. Enjoy this beauty as a stand-alone celebratory drink, or match it with sushi or even a grilled veal chop.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 4, 2023

Henriot, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($59, Henriot, Inc): Henriot is one of the few producers to make a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne. I, for one, am glad they do because it’s a real treat that doesn’t break the bank, like the super premium bottlings do. Henriot’s has all of the glorious elegance and creaminess you’d expect from a Champagne made exclusively from Chardonnay buttressed by a firm, but not an angular, backbone. Long and fine, it’s a wonderful way to start -- or end -- an evening.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014

Jacquart, Champagne (France) Rosé NV ($50):

Sparkling rosé is one of mankind's great creations -- certainly lovely to look at, and the best examples find a balance between berry, citrus and yeasty aromas and flavors. It is all accomplished here, with freshness, racy acidity and a long finish that leaves a bright mix of flavor behind. A very festive evening starter, or you can try it with a creamy soup.
93 Rich Cook Oct 13, 2015

Jacquesson, Champagne (France) Brut “Cuvée no. 735" NV ($70, Vintage ’59 Imports): I know, I know, everyone is supposed to love pink Champagne, but I routinely find them to be chunky and obvious, which are not descriptors that I associate with romance. By contrast, this wine is a model of nuanced sophistication and delicacy, though it is expressive and generous as well. Admirably dry but still flavorful and deeply satisfying, this Cuvée 735 tastes terrific right now, and can actually compare favorably to many prestige cuvées at a notably lower price.
93 Michael Franz Nov 5, 2013

Jacquesson, Champagne (France) Extra Brut “Cuvée no. 741” NV ($80, Vintage ’59 Imports):

Jacquesson isn’t really “famous,” but it is one of Champagne’s best houses, consistently turning out immaculate, mineral wines with great capacity to improve with age. Releases of this Cuvée are numbered sequentially, so “741” is your key to finding this wine, which was disgorged in December of 2017. If you have a cellar, buy this… and then vow to keep your mitts off of it for a full five years. I’m not kidding. It is so sharply dry that “steely” or even “austere” are the first descriptors that come to mind, especially when tasted fully chilled. As it warms, it shows a bit of flesh on the bone, but all of its energy remains “linear” rather than broad or deep, with acidity and minerality leading the charge. With a dosage of just 2.5 grams of liter, this is a connoisseur’s wine built for the future (which is a nice way of saying that serving it at a family gathering this year runs the risk of killing Aunt Minnie from acidic shock). If you don’t have a cellar, buy a lower number than 741, and buy it with confidence.
93 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2019

Jean Diot, Champagne (France) “Selection” NV ($45):

A new producer to me, and it's a fine introduction. Pear, golden apple, granite and soft white flowers entice on the nose, and the pear, apple and stone translate nicely on the palate, with pleasant toasty notes adding to the dance. Time to celebrate? If not, celebrate this wine as an occasion. Contains 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir. 93 Rich Cook Oct 17, 2017

Jean Josselin, Champagne (France) “Alliance” NV ($60):

Jean Josselin is what’s known as a grower Champagne. That is, their entire production comes from their vineyards, which are usually in one area, in contrast to the major Champagne houses who can purchase grapes from the throughout the entire appellation. Grower Champagnes have become popular because they can offer a distinctiveness and uniqueness based on the location of their vineyards, much like other terroir-focused wines. Though the Josselin family purchased their first vineyard in 1854, it took them over a hundred years later, in 1957, to establish the Champagne house. Their Champagne, Alliance, incorporates about 30 percent Chardonnay in the blend, which adds an extra dose of elegance to the Champagne. (Chardonnay accounts for only about 10 percent of the plantings in the Côte des Bar, where Josselin is located.) As much as I like their 100 percent Pinot Noir-based "Cuvée des Jean," the “Alliance" has just a touch more refinement. Frankly, I’m counting angels on the head of a pin because I’m thrilled to drink either of them. Both have sufficient stature to stand up to sautéed fish or similarly weighted dishes but are elegant enough to stand alone as an aperitif.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2022

Jean-Noël Haton, Champagne (France) Brut “Héritage" NV ($49, T. Elenteny / Lanterna):

This excellent Champagne is apparently a step up from Haton’s “Classic” bottling, though I hasten to add that this is more “apparently” the case than “evidently.” A much fancier bottle and a notably higher price are the appearances I’m referencing, along with a more noble cépage of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. Additionally, this “Héritage” release is a bit more intricate and sophisticated in aromas and flavors, especially after the wine has warmed in a glass. It is a terrific buy at $49, costing a bit less than Gosset’s NV “Grande Réserve,” offering even more complexity if also a bit less depth and power. In terms of value, its real challenger isn’t the Gosset, but rather this house’s superb “Classic” bottling, which is very nearly as good for $13 less.
93 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2019

Laherte, Champagne (France) “Frères Rosé de Meunier” Extra Brut NV ($55, Polaner Selections):

The exceptional quality and price easily make the NV Extra Brut Rosé de Meunier a multiple-bottle purchase. Made from 100 percent Pinot Meunier with three different vinifications - 30 percent is from macerated Meunier, that is to say, the juice is left in contact with the skins to extract color, 10 percent is made from still red wine, and 60 percent comes from white wine (directly pressed). Disgorged in September 2020, it is highly expressive and intensely aromatic, exhibiting aromas and flavors of red cherries, rhubarb, cranberry, and peppery citrus. The acid is bright and fresh, yet the texture is creamy and decadent, culminating in a long, dry finish.
93 Miranda Franco Jun 29, 2021

Lanson, Champagne (France) Brut “Black Label” NV ($45):

In my opinion, Lanson does not receive the credit it’s due. Their non-vintage Brut combines a welcome steeliness and vibrancy with richness. Geek alert -- the vibrancy is, in part, due to their blocking the malolactic fermentation, action of bacteria that which normally changes firm green apple-like (malic) acidity to softer (creamy) lactic acidity. Few Champagne houses employ this winemaking technique because most probably feel that there is plenty of acidity in Champagne without it. But Lanson pulls it off -- at least for those of us who embrace that style of Champagne. Its cutting style serves it well as a stand-along celebratory drink and well as an excellent foil for sushi.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2019

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut 2004 ($70, Laurent-Perrier USA): Relying on a substantial amount of Chardonnay in their blends, Laurent-Perrier consistently makes elegant and suave Champagne. The 2004, a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, continues that tradition. Creamy and delicate, it caresses the palate. There’s just the right amount of acidity in its very fine bubbles to keep it fresh and lively. Although it’s a wonderful way to start an evening, it would also be an excellent choice at the table to accompany scallops in a cream sauce or similar fare.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2013

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut 2002 ($50, Laurent-Perrier USA):

I was pleasantly surprised to find this Champagne still selling at the retail level at Garnet Wines and Liquors in Manhattan because most Champagnes from the excellent 2002 vintage have disappeared. It has the hallmark elegance of Laurent Perrier, a suave creaminess and lovely freshness despite 10 years of age. Judging from my past experience with Laurent-Perrier’s vintage Champagne, I suspect it has another decade to go, so if you can find it, buy it. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 5, 2012

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut 2002 ($50, Laurent-Perrier USA): The 2002 Champagnes are simply gorgeous and fortunately, there are a

few, like this one, still in market. Laurent -Perrier is partial to Chardonnay in their blends and it shows in this gorgeous wine. All elegance and lightness, it has a gentle, but long, persistence. It’s all about elegance, not power. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012

Le Brun Servenay, Champagne (France) Vieilles Vignes Brut 2004 ($63, Becky Wasserman Selection): This is a beautiful Champagne from the village of Avize in the Côte des Blancs subregion of Champagne. The 2004 Vieilles Vignes Brut is made entirely of Chardonnay and shows the elegance and refinement of its heritage. It has aged for 8 years on its lees and the extended tirage has allowed the wine to open up and blossom. The bouquet reveals notes of citrus peel, lemon and apples along with hints of cream, spice and the toasty, yeasty character the Methode Champenoise imparts. Rich, complex and dry on the palate, it pleases with its complex combination of citrus and apple fruits with nutty, honey, smoky, yeasty, and creamy nuances. Its elegant style and high complexity make this a Champagne to savor and note how the finish lingers on and on so pleasantly.
93 Wayne Belding Mar 10, 2015

Le Mesnil, Champagne (France) Grand Cru, Blanc de Blanc NV ($45, Wines With Conviction & Bourget Imports):

Here is the perfect wine for the upcoming, socially-distanced holiday season. From its tiny, prolific bubbles to its aromas of brioche, toasted nuts and citrus zest followed by ethereal flavors of citrus, green apple, with yeasty, chalky mineral notes — simultaneously crisp and creamy — it is a delightfully delicious and pleasing Champagne. It is equally at home as an aperitif and at the holiday table with its myriad flavors. Blanc de Blancs in wine terms means a white wine made exclusively from white grapes. In Champagne that means Chardonnay, although four other white varieties are allowed in the region, and that usually means expensive. Created in 1937, Le Mesnil is a grower-owned, cooperative winery. Those growers are tending vines in the Côtes de Blanc one of the most prestigious regions for Chardonnay in the world. You have likely heard the names of other wine companies with vines in the area, Louis Roederer, Krug, Salon, etc. At this price it should be your house Champagne.
93 Rebecca Murphy Nov 17, 2020

Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV ($63, Vintage '59): Lilbert-Fils is a small grower in the Côte des Blancs of Champagne, producing just over 2000 case a year. Sourced from Grand Cru vineyards in Oiry, Chouilly and Cramant, it shows the best characteristics of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. The bouquet shows pure, apple and lemon fruits with toasty, yeasty and creamy nuances. On the palate, it is vivid, lively and layered with the apple and citrus tones interwoven with the creamy and yeasty elements. The overall experience is harmonious and invigorating -- just what fine Champagne should be. Get some while you can.
93 Wayne Belding Sep 16, 2014

Louis Massing, Champagne (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV ($55, Artisans & Vines):

My recent tasting of the three Louis Massing Champagnes was my first encounter with them, and our love affair is off to a flying start. All three are quite good, but this Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs release is definitely the pick of the litter to my palate. I can’t say whether the fruit was sourced entirely from the famous Chardonnay-producing village of Avize, but that’s where the producer is located. In any case, the core material was certainly very good, as was the winemaking, as this shows wonderful purity as well as fine concentration, complexity, depth and length. In sum, it displays the freshness and elegance expected of a Blanc de Blancs Champagne while also delivering the complexity and flavor impact appropriate for a Grand Cru wine. I also love the fact that this $55 bottle tastes like a $75 Champagne.
93 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2019

Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) “Brut Premier” NV ($55):

Among the major houses in Champagne, when it comes to the big production non-vintage workhorse, house style is key, and no one delivers more consistency across their portfolio than the house of Roederer. While I am more familiar with the winery’s California project, once in a while I’ll virtually cross the pond for the heritage offerings. It’s always a worthwhile trip, and the Brut Premier shows the winery foundation with clarity, balancing apple, pear and toasty brioche on the nose and in the mouth, with freshening acidity pushing the bright flavors through the long lively finish. From a house founded in 1776, it’s a particularly politically perfect selection if that’s what got the most of your attention in 2020. Vive l’alliance!
93 Rich Cook Dec 22, 2020

Marc Hebrart, Champagne (France) Rosé Brut 1er Cru NV ($50, Terry Theise Estate Selection / Skurnik):

Pretty, pale pink in color, with a refined mousse and come-hither fragrance, I found this to be an altogether seductive Champagne. Its complex flavors (suggestions of roses and berries come to mind) are definitely part of the charm, and the wine is dry yet softly textured. The grapes come from Premier Cru vineyards of Mareuil Sur Ay. This is a perfect bubbly for celebrating the holiday season.
93 Marguerite Thomas Dec 18, 2018

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut "Imperial" NV ($40, LVMH):

This is gorgeous wine regardless of any other consideration, but its quality boggles the mind when one considers how much of it is made. Very complex aromatics get it off to a great start, and the flavors are likewise very impressive for their detail, with fresh notes recalling yellow stone fruits but also some positive oxidation and some gorgeous biscuity nuances indicating a strong contribution from reserve wines in the blend. Remarkably intricate, this won a Platinum award at the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. 93 Michael Franz Jun 17, 2014

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) "Rosé Imperial" Brut NV ($50):

If you win Platinum at Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Challenge, and at another Challenge, does that make you Double Platinum? You decide. Here are my notes from the last competition, same score as today. "Serve this in a tulip shaped glass rather than a narrow flute to please your eye as well as you nose and palate. Know the look of a just about ripe strawberry? It's not just pretty, but it gives you a hint about the aromas and flavors within. Strawberry, mild baked bread and lemon are present and bright, and scouring acidity cleanses without removing the fruit impression. Beautiful all the way around."
93 Rich Cook Sep 26, 2017

Nicolas Maillart, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Brut Rosé NV ($50):

There’s no doubt about the power emanating from this Champagne. It just needs time to reveal it. Initially, it’s hard, almost severe. But give it time in the glass, or as I did, re-stopper it and try it again the next day. Then this blend of two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay blossomed with glorious red fruit aromas which followed on the palate. The spine of acidity that seemed hard the day before gave perfect support and balance. This impressive bottling needs a couple of years in the cellar -- the back label notes it was disgorged in July 2018 -- or haul out your Champagne stopper.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2019

Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) Brut Réserve NV ($60, Quintessential Wines):

I was unaware of this Champagne house until recently. After tasting this beautiful bubbly, I’m glad I’ve been introduced. At the outset, it’s important to note, its name notwithstanding, it has no connection to either Château Palmer in Margaux or Palmer Vineyards on Long Island. This Palmer, founded in 1947, is a relatively new (at least by local standards) Champagne house that focuses on vineyards in the Montagne de Reims, where all of their grapes come from villages classified as either Grand or Premier Cru. Though the Montagne de Reims is best known for Pinot Noir, roughly half of Palmer’s non-vintage blend comes from Chardonnay. Pinot Noir accounts for about a third, with Pinot Meunier filling out the rest. An amazing third of the blend comes from reserve wines, which helps explain the grandeur of this, their calling card bottling. It combines elegance with just the right amount of intensity, giving the wine a real presence without being boisterous. A terrific stand-alone sipper, it’s elegance and depth make it an easy choice at the table with grilled fish. Although the suggested retail price is $60, I have seen it widely available for about $45, which would make it an excellent buy.
93 Michael Apstein May 18, 2021

Perrier Jouët, Champagne (France) Fleur de Champagne 2000 ($139, Pernod Ricard USA): A soft, creamy texture makes this very pleasant in initial impression,

and then a host of subtle complexities are revealed in the long, symmetrical finish that shows the true excellence of the wine. Yeast, fruit and mineral notes are all beautifully intertwined, with acidity and a touch of sweetness counterbalancing one another very effectively. Fully mature but not yet tiring, this is a very impressive wine. 93 Michael Franz Jun 9, 2009

Perrier-Jouët, Champagne (France) “Fleur de Champagne Cuvée Belle Epoque” 2000 ($140, Pernod Ricard USA): Once you get into the Champagne stratosphere of 'Cuvée de

Prestige' bottlings, you often find wines that seem as though they were crafted with the intention of justifying their price on the strength of sheer dramatics. In this case, by contrast, you'll find a wine that exudes elegance and sophistication at every turn. Although these descriptors may seem a bit vague, the characteristics they describe are quite evident in the wine, which is expressive and flavorful, but subtle rather than pushy or overt. Moreover, it shows lovely toasty, yeasty nuances that are very well tuned to the fruit so that neither of these notes rises more to the fore than the other. The components of fruit, acidity, dosage and effervescence are all so well balanced and proportioned that the wine comes off as complete and seamless. 93 Michael Franz Jan 6, 2009

Perrier-Jouët, Champagne (France) “Belle Epoque” 2004 ($150, Pernod Ricard USA):

A strong citrus flavor drives this delicious wine, which is toastier on the nose than in the mouth. Well-integrated bubbles keep it elegant; you feel like this is the sort of wine that people should have been drinking in the Belle Epoque, but actually the Champagnes they had almost certainly weren't this good.

Philipponnat, Champagne (France) “Grand Blanc” Brut 2002 ($70, Ex Cellars Wine Agency):

Philipponnat is probably the most under-appreciated Champagne firm. They make a great array of wines, but, curiously, have little name recognition in this country. Although they are best known for the Pinot Noir-dominant wines (especially their stunning Clos des Goisses) this Grand Blanc, made exclusively from Chardonnay, shows they are equally talented with that varietal. About 15% of the blend comes from the famed Clos des Goisses vineyard, which helps explain why this Champagne has such power--especially for a Blanc de Blancs. Young and tightly-wound, the glorious elegance of Chardonnay appears with air. The vibrancy, especially in the finish, is exhilarating. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2010

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne (France) 1er Cru, Brut, Blanc de Blancs “Cuvée Cuis” NV ($55, Terry Thiese Estate Selection):

Blanc de Blancs (literally, white from whites) has no legal meaning except in Champagne where it means that only Chardonnay, a white grape, can be used. The expectation, which is fulfilled dramatically with this wine, is a Champagne of purity and elegance. Gimonnet’s also has a creamy texture and impressive precision and length. Though a perfect summertime Champagne because of its refreshing, light-on-the-palate style, I look forward to drinking it year-round, and acquired a case of it for my cellar for that very purpose.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2019

Pierre Paillard, Champagne (France) Brut, Grand Cru NV ($40):

A beautifully crafted Champagne, with superior depth of flavor resulting, I suspect, from the use of grand cru grapes in the blend, this is an extremely classy bottle of wine. Great as an aperitif, the wine also will pair well with seafood -- both fresh, briny renditions such as raw oysters or cracked crab and richer ones like lobster with drawn butter.
93 Paul Lukacs Jul 15, 2014

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($45, Terlato):

This bottling continues to be a favorite -- it's long on pear and mixed citrus flavors, with touches of bread dough and nut, with a long finish that cleanses, leaving mouthwatering lemon zest lingering. The additional nine months in the bottle over the required fifteen for non-vintage Champagne shows itself here with a delightful yeasty note. It's available everywhere, usually well below the suggested retail price. Just ask for "Piper Red" and you'll get taken directly to this wine.
93 Rich Cook Jan 3, 2017

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Rosé “Sauvage” NV ($55, Rémy Cointreau USA):

Virtually every wine writer that I know has jumped on the Rosé bandwagon--except me. In almost every case, I find the wines to be too fruity, or sweet, or clumsy and obvious, and I almost never find one that doesn’t make me wish that I wasn’t holding a blended Brut or a Blanc de Blancs instead. With that said, however, I adore this wine. It shows deep strawberry color and a highly expressive nose that recalls red currants and wild strawberries, and though the palate packs intensely fruity flavors…it then tightens up to show a long, lean, marvelously dry finish. “Sauvage” is one of many proprietary terms used to indicate with that aren’t “dosed” with sugar after disgorging, and the fact that Piper-Heidsieck chose to style a Rosé Champagne in this style is yet another testament to the recent renaissance at this house. The interplay of juicy red fruit flavors and a taut, refreshing finish is almost uncanny as a sensory combination, and this would be a great wine to pour for almost anyone, whether your friend is a novice or a thoroughly jaded Champagne snob. In either case, this wine would provide them with a strikingly memorable experience. As an aside, Piper-Heidsieck’s current release 2006 Vintage Brut is also terrific, and though I’ll review it soon here on WRO, this Rosé is such a remarkable departure of the norm that I had to hit it first.
93 Michael Franz Dec 16, 2014

Ployez-Jacquemart, Champagne (France) Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 2002 ($65, David Boller Wines): Lacy and precise, the suaveness of a Blanc de Blancs is apparent. Its cutting crispness makes a lovely counterpoint to its creaminess. Its grandeur is manifest by elegance, not power, and great length. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012

Pommery, Champagne (France) “Apanage” Rosé Brut NV ($72):

This is a show-stopper of a Rosé. With eyes closed, it has the power and a hint of tannin -- like the texture of peach-skin -- that would make you think you’re drinking red wine. Full-bodied, but elegant and suave, it’s a great as an aperitif, but also marvelous with food. The spine of acidity will cut through a rich creamy sauce and enliven the palate simultaneously.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2017

Roederer, Champagne (France) 2002 ($66, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Roederer has achieved great success with its 2002 vintage Brut. Quite toasty and powerful, it nonetheless retains grace and finesse. Beautifully balanced, the biscuity, creamy elements extend into the lengthy finish. Although luscious to drink now, the supporting acidity suggests this Champagne will age and improve. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 24, 2008

Soutiran, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Brut Millesimé 2002 ($80, Vintage '59 Imports): A rich and dramatic wine, this is a Champagne that makes an indelible impression. The aromas are quite expressive and the effervescence is energetic and yet soft in texture. Yet the real dramatics show up in the form of very deep flavors that prove very lasting on the finish, which is symmetrical and, ultimately, clean and lifted rather than ponderous or sweet, which is very impressive for a wine of this size. 93 Michael Franz Nov 11, 2008

Taittinger, Champagne (France) Rosé "Prestige" NV ($75, Kobrand): I’m always skeptical when a producer labels a wine “prestige.” But this one deserves that moniker. It’s one of the best non-vintage

Rosé Champagnes I have tasted in a long time. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it captures the power of the former and the elegance of the latter. It’s wild strawberry-like flavors and enhanced and buttressed by a hint of tannin that lends structure and another layer of complexity. Easy to drink as an aperitif, it has enough stuffing to stand up to smoked or even grilled salmon--and the colors would match nicely. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009

Taittinger, Champagne (France) Grands Crus “Prélude” Brut NV ($80, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Taittinger’s Prélude is a rather unusual Champagne with many virtues, chief among which are outstanding integration, softness and drink-ability.

Although a non-vintage wine, its pedigree is indisputably strong, with all of the juice sourced from villages in the region designated with grand cru status. The blend is split evenly between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which is one source of its balance, with the other key factor being a full five years of ageing prior to disgorging. Of course, those who understand how Champagne is constructed will know that blending is no argument against wine quality even in vintage-dated wines, and blending across vintages is yet another way to achieve a balanced and consistent wine. Rich and soft but still relatively light and refreshing, this shows the Taittinger style beautifully, with terrific balance between fruit, acidity and yeast. The effervescence is creamy in texture but still energetic, and one of the wine’s strengths is that it is fully ready to enjoy but also capable of developing additional complexity and weight for those who are willing to trade some freshness in search of those qualities.
93 Michael Franz Jul 16, 2013

Taittinger, Champagne (France) "Millésimé" Brut 2005 ($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): I suspect that the staff at Taittinger wouldn’t appreciate this, but it seems apparent to me that their Millésimé Brut has fallen into relative obscurity after they introduced the non-vintage but Grand Cru “Prélude” bottling (which is a real attention-grabber at a slightly lower price in the middle ground between the NV Brut “La Francaise” and the top-shelf “Comtes de Champagne” wines). Now that Taittinger has also brought out “Les Folies de la Marquetterie” Brut NV in this same general price category, one wonders how the Millésimé will fare in terms of profile. Perhaps it will rebound, and perhaps this 2005 will be the turn-around release. By comparison to “Prélude,” it is considerably more energetic and age-worthy, though not as creamy, complex, or optimally aged for current consumption. A core of bright red berry fruit is very fresh but also impressively deep in flavor, with restrained yeast notes. The effervescence is very fine in texture but abundant in volume, and the acidity is ripe but still quite prominent and fresh. If forced to choose at gunpoint, I’d buy the “Prélude” to drink tonight, but of the two, this Millésimé is the one I’d choose for my cellar.
93 Michael Franz Jul 16, 2013

Agrapart & Fils, Champagne (France) "7 Crus Brut" NV ($53, Polaner):

Agrapart & Fils, a small producer who farms about 25 acres of vineyards in the Côtes des Blancs, focuses, not surprisingly given their location, on Chardonnay. The 7 Crus Brut takes its name from the 7 villages, four of which are Grand Cru, from which the grapes come. Creamy, elegant and very long, this refined Champagne is a joy to sip and even better to drink. Great supporting acidity balances without intruding or perturbing the palate.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013

Agrapart & Fils, Champagne (France) “7 Crus” Blanc De Blancs NV ($49, Roanoke Valley Wine Company):

Agrapart’s non-vintage Blanc De Blancs 7 Crus is named for the seven villages from which is it sourced, including four with Grand Cru pedigree and two at the Premier Cru level. This blend of 90 percent Chardonnay with a dollop of Pinot Noir offers great depth and structured minerality that gives the wine terrific length. Aromas of white flowers, fresh brioche, citrus peel and peach emanate from the glass. Flavors of lemon, limestone, and zesty grapefruit emerge on the palate. It is delicious out of the gate but will easily age for another ten to fifteen years.
92 Miranda Franco Apr 20, 2021

Alain Soutiran, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($55, Vintage ’59 Imports): Soutiran, a small grower located in Ambonnay, a Grand Cru village

known for Pinot Noir, makes a stunning and powerful non-vintage Brut from the roughly 50 acres he owns or farms there for other family members. Part of its complexity comes from Soutiran's practice of aging his reserve wines in barrel as opposed to the more usual practice of using stainless steel tanks. He fashions an impeccable balance of creamy elegance from Chardonnay--about 40% of the blend--with persistent intensity from Pinot Noir. This is a bold Brut balanced by finesse. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 17, 2008

André Jacquart, Champagne (France) Premier Cru Blanc de Blanc Brut NV ($46, Esprit du Vin):

This 100% Chardonnay Champagne, a Premier Cru with 40% Les Mesnil-sur Oger fruit, shows apple, lemon and brioche aromas that translate on the palate beautifully, with a very fine, persistent mousse that adds a little pop to the creamy mid palate texture. The apple and lemon bloom in the long finish, where mouthwatering acidity revives you and brings you back to the glass for more. I'd serve this alongside a creamy white fish dish, or just drink it in solo.
92 Rich Cook Dec 5, 2017

Autréau de Champillon, Champagne (France) Premier Cru Extra-Brut NV ($46, Baron Francois):

Though Chardonnay comprises only about 20% of this blend — the reminder is equal parts of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier — the finesse imparted by that grape comes through. It is a masterful blend because the red grapes don’t dominate, they just add a touch of power. It delivers a pleasantly piercing touch of green apple-like notes along with a saline minerally component. It is marvelous as a stand-alone aperitif but those red grapes provide extra oomph. A cutting edginess from the Extra Brut designation — only 3 grams of dosage — reinforces the idea that it can hold up to say, chicken in a mushroom cream sauce.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2022

Ayala, Champagne (France) “Majeur” Rosé NV ($57, Vintus):

This rosé displays a pretty, golden pink color with luscious strawberry, raspberry, citrus, and chalky aromas that introduce round berry, citrus, and toasty almond flavors. The senses are enhanced with delicate bubbles tingling on the tongue. It is a versatile wine that is quite satisfying as an aperitif, enjoyed at lunch with a pasta salad or at the dinner table with grilled salmon. Fifty percent of the blend is Chardonnay. Pinot Noir is 40 percent, with six percent coming from still wine destined to impart the delicate pink rose color. Pinot Meunier completes the blend.
92 Rebecca Murphy Nov 3, 2020

Ayala, Champagne (Ay, France) Brut Nature NV ($45): There is always a danger with a no-dosage Champagne that the acidity will wear out the palate, or dominate to the extent that the delicate fruit aromas will be unable to compete. The exact opposite is the case with this beautiful no-dosage Champagne from Ayala, Brut Nature. On the palate the wine is fresh and clean, with lively aromas of crunchy green apple and citrus, and a soft bead that wraps easily around the tongue. It is even more inviting and intriguing when paired with Serrano ham, simply grilled fish, steamed shellfish or raw oysters. 92 Robert Whitley Dec 25, 2012

Ayala, Champagne (France) Brut Nature Zero Dosage NV ($45, Cognac One): Most major Champagne houses don't produce a 'Zero Dosage' Champagne (Laurent-Perrier is one of the few that does), believing that it is too dry to appeal to 'popular' tastes. I believe that they are misjudging the current trend towards dryer beverages. I love Ayala's Brut Nature! It is so fresh, elegant and light on the palate--the perfect aperitif. It also accompanies shellfish and other seafood nicely. Ayala's Brut Nature is exactly the same Champagne as its NV Brut Majeur, but with absolutely no sugar added. Yes, it's very dry, but not a bit harsh or austere. The current cuvée is based on the 2004 vintage (80%), with the remaining 20% reserve wines from older vintages. 92 Ed McCarthy Apr 15, 2008

Barnaut, Champagne (France) Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru NV ($50, Vintage '59 Imports):

Blanc de Noirs bottlings of sparkling wine are not terribly unusual in California, but I see very few of them from Champagne. The quality of this extraordinary wine will make me look much more closely to see if I can find others that will measure up to it--though I'm not optimistic about that given how high this bottling sets the bar. Both the aromas and flavors show great depth and breadth, with a generous richness that almost makes the wine seem 'meaty.' However, there's a freshness and lift to every aspect of the wine from the first whiff to the end of the very long finish that keeps it from seeming heavy or graceless. This aspect will enable it to work perfectly in aperitif mode, but it is also a Champagne that could really excel at the table. 92 Michael Franz Dec 20, 2011

Bérêche & Fils, Champagne (France) Brut Réserve NV ($46):

So-called grower Champagnes, those made from one person’s or family’s vineyards, are all the rage. I recommend this one, not because it is a grower Champagne, which it is, but because of its suave complexity. Making Champagne from a limited number of family vineyards is a two-edged sword. A plus is the wine’s potential to express a sense of place, or terroir. A minus is the inability to even out the blend should localized weather problems affect the vineyards. Bérêche & Fils has the best of both worlds. This, their standard Brut, contains about one-third reserve wine (the remainder is from the current vintage) and is a blend of equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Importantly, their roughly 23 acres of vineyards are located in several areas of the Champagne appellation: different parts of the Montagne de Reims and the western part of Vallée de la Marne, which allows them to achieve complexity that comes, in part, from blending wines from different terroirs. Creamy and silky with the perfect balancing backbone, it is an excellent choice as an aperitif. But it has sufficient oomph to stand up to grilled swordfish or even a roast chicken. It’s important to remember that Champagne is a wine that goes beautifully with food.
92 Michael Apstein May 2, 2017

Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut "Cuvee des Moines" NV ($65, Winesellers, Ltd.): This wonderful Champagne is made with slightly less effervescence than standard bottlings, and has a softer, creamier texture as a result. This works especially well in the house's Chardonnay-based Blanc de Blancs, which is supremely delicate and refined. Aromas and flavors are complex but focused, and the basic components of fruit, yeast, sweetness and acidity are beautifully balanced against one another. 92 Michael Franz Dec 20, 2011

Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) "Cuvée des Moines” Rosé NV ($61):

Grace and power is what comes to mind while sipping this Rosé Champagne. The power comes from the red grape-dominant (70 percent), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, blend. Chardonnay provides the elegance. Full-bodied, but not flamboyant, it delivers hints of strawberries and other red fruit flavors. Sure, it’s an excellent way to start an evening, but it’s equally enjoyable at the table because of its weight and brilliant acidity, which imparts freshness.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2019

Billecart-Salmon, Champagne (France) Extra Brut NV ($58, T. Edward Wines): The excellent Champagne producer, Billecart-Salmon, has released its first two extra brut Champagnes, a non-vintage and a 2004 vintage brut. Both have absolutely no dosage added. The NV Extra Brut is outstanding, so much better than Billecart’s standard NV Brut, which I’ve always found a bit sweet for my palate. It’s fresh and lively, with mineral notes and citrus flavors. Note Billecart’s new importer. 92 Ed McCarthy Jan 11, 2011

Billecart-Salmon, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($88):

Rosé Champagnes are versatile. They are a luxurious treat as a welcome drink or aperitif for guests -- or just for you and a spouse or significant other. All too often, people forget that Champagne is a wine, and that rosé Champagne especially has enough power and intensity to be an excellent choice with lots of different -- and often hard to match -- foods. Enter the Billecart-Salmon NV Rosé. It’s long and luxurious with a firm backbone of acidity that keeps it lively. A study in power and refinement, it’s a fine choice for either smoked or grilled salmon or even roast pork. It’s also fabulous on its own.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "Special Cuvee" NV ($42, Terlato Wines International):

Bollinger's non-vintage Special Cuvée is for me consistently one of the very best under-$50 Champagnes in the world. It contains reserve wines up to 15 years old, and is always aged by Bollinger for three to four years before it's released. It is very dry, full-bodied, and biscuity, with complex flavors of brioche and green apples. It becomes even toastier with a few years of aging. 92 Ed McCarthy Jan 8, 2008

Bollinger, Champagne (France) 2003 ($125): As you might imagine, northern Europe's extreme heat of the summer of 2003 gave Champagne producers fits. Didn't mean they had to make bad wine, but getting the grapes into the winery in good shape, meaning healthy and with decent levels of acid, presented huge challenges during what turned out to be the earliest harvest in the recorded history of Champagne. The 2003 by Bollinger is an extraordinary Champagne, albeit somewhat out of the mainstream. This beautiful Champagne is rich and honeyed, yet exhibits tremendous balance and lovely notes of raspberry and toasty, nutty aromas that dominate from the moment the cork is popped through the lingering finish. While I doubt that it will have the staying power of a more classic vintage, there is no denying this is yummy stuff at this moment in time. 92 Robert Whitley Jan 13, 2009

Bollinger, Champagne (France) Rosé NV ($90, Terlato Wines International): Bollinger is a very traditional Champagne house, and was one of the last major producers to make a Rosé Champagne (in 1976). Now that Rosé Champagnes are back in fashion, in a big way, Bollinger has introduced a companion, non-vintage Champagne to its vintage, at about half the price of the Grande Année Rosé. It is rosy pink in color, quite dry and full-bodied, very similar to the Bollinger NV Special Cuvée, but with less than 10% Pinot Noir wine added for color. Delicious, with subtle strawberry flavors, a tad fruitier than the Grande Année Rosé. The NV Bollinger Rosé is ready to enjoy now. 92 Ed McCarthy Jul 22, 2008

Bollinger, Champagne (France) “Special Cuvée” Brut NV ($70):

Bollinger's non-vintage Brut has long been recognized as being a wine that virtually occupies its own category. Priced above the comparable entry-level wine from almost every other Champagne house, it almost always performs on a higher level as well. That remains the case at present, at least judging by two bottles that I've tasted recently. Both showed exceptional richness and depth of flavor, with admirable maturity and excellent effervescence that was almost perfectly poised at the balance point between vigor and softness. I showed the two bottles in wine classes that also included several significantly more expensive wines, but this was still among the favorites of both groups. Shop around if you live near a big city...$70 is a fair price for this wine, but at least one store where I live (Washington, DC) is selling it for $50....
92 Michael Franz Dec 26, 2017

Bonnet - Ponson, Champagne (France) Brut Premier Cru NV ($41, Maritime Trading):

The Champagne house of Bonnet - Ponson has roots stretching back 150+ years in the western part of the Montagne de Reims in Champagne. Their Brut Premier Cru is crafted from roughly equal proportions of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay. This is a lovely expression of Pinot and Chardonnay character in the Champenoise style. It shows a rich bouquet of red and black cherries with floral hints as well as elements of lemon, cream and toast. The flavors are complete and complex with the cherry and berry fruits enhanced by the lemony freshness and the toasty, yeasty character the Methode Champenoise imparts. It offers full flavors, rich texture, elegance and a long finish. This is a delicious Champagne that offers remarkable complexity and value. 92 Wayne Belding Apr 10, 2018

Champagne Devaux, Champagne (France) “Augusta” Brut NV ($40, Seaview Imports):

The Augusta refers to Augusta-Maria Herbin, Devaux’s wife, another widow of Champagne, who led the firm from 1879 to 1895. Family ownership ended in 1987, when, according to their website, it passed to the Union Auboise, now Groupe Vinicole Champagne Devaux, a co-operative. There are 22 coops in Champagne, accounting for over a third of all the wine pressed there, according to the Comité Champagne, the trade group that represents all of the growers and producers. Coops, unfairly in my view, have a poor reputation. Indeed, they often are the place to find value, since they have the ability to produce many wines of differing quality. Take this one, for example. Champagne Devaux is the coop’s flagship wine. Most of the wine comes from the 2016 vintage with 20 percent reserve wine (older vintages) rounding out the blend. A blend of Pinot Noir (80 percent) and Chardonnay, it delivers both power and elegance. Its engaging roundness allows you to enjoy it on its own before dinner, but its intensity and length means it’s fine at the table with, say, grilled swordfish.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 29, 2020

Champagne Gardet, Champagne (France) Brut Premier Cru Blanc de Noirs NV ($50):

This is a gorgeous Blanc de Noirs made entirely from Pinot Noir (60%) and Pinot Meunier grown in the Premier Cru village of Hautvillers. Aromatic, with a prominent display of red fruits, it has the power of red grapes offset by a spine of acidity. This nicely balanced wine easily stands alone, but has enough oomph and breeding to accompany grilled salmon.
92 Michael Apstein May 15, 2018

Champagne Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) "Brut Premier" NV ($50, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Roederer’s non-vintage Brut Premier makes up the house’s largest production of its Champagnes (about 2.5 million bottles annually). It is a blend of 40 percent Pinot Noir, 40 percent Chardonnay, and 20 percent Pinot Meunier. It is aged for three years in the cellar and then another six months in the bottle before being released. Brut Premier is an assemblage of wines from six different vintages, including Reserve wines from Louis Roederer’s cellar. Because of the amount of Brut Premier produced, this is the only Louis Roederer Champagne that uses grapes from non-Estate vineyards. I have noticed a distinct improvement in Brut Premier since Jean-Baptiste became the Chef de Cave. It used to be fruitier, more robust, and slightly sweeter. With Lécaillon’s emphasis on elegance and freshness, it is now more delicate, is perfectly balanced, and shows lots of finesse for a non-vintage Brut. It is a fine aperitif Champagne, but is also perfect with seafood entrées. It’s a Champagne that I look for in restaurants, and is one of my favorite NV Bruts. Available in half-bottles.
92 Ed McCarthy Mar 21, 2017

Charles Dufour, Champagne (France) “Bulles de Comptoir #11 Terrine et Jardin” Extra Brut NV ($65, Williams Corner):

Harmonious is an apt word for this Grower Champagne blended from 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 10% Pinot Blanc. It comes from Charles Dufour’s organic vineyard in Landreville, a village in Champagne’s southern Côte des Bar. The base vintage is 2019, with the remaining 20 percent of the wine being réserve wines in a solera-style, starting in 2010 and aged entirely in barrel. The nose opens with prolific aromas of golden raspberry, red plums, dried and baked apples. It is fresh on the palate with an exceptional balance between fruit and finesse, with a nice round structure and ripe fruit flavors which evolve into honey chestnut notes. A great core of acidity will provide many more years of life to this wine.
92 Miranda Franco Dec 26, 2023

Chartogne-Taillet, Champagne (France) "Cuvée Sainte Anne” Brut NV ($50, Skurnik Wines and Spirits):

The NV Brut Cuvée Sainte-Anne (disgorged in September 2020) is one of the best Brut NV Champagnes you will find with significant complexity at this price point. Rich and creamy, this blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, and 20% Meunier is an invitingly luscious wine. It opens in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard apples, white flowers, and fresh pastry. Its medium-bodied palate is highlighted by flavors of luscious peach, apricot, fresh lemon, spice, and almond. The richness on the palate provides a long and full aftertaste.
92 Miranda Franco Jun 22, 2021

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Brut NV ($79, Vineyard Brands):

At more than 250 years old, Delamotte is the fifth oldest house in Champagne. The Delamotte NV Blanc de Blancs Brut offers a beautifully intense and chalky bouquet of fresh white pear, white peach, crisp apple, salt-preserved lemon, intertwined with brioche and blossom notes. The palate is laser-focused and pure from start to finish, with layers of intense chalk minerality. Mouthwatering, with a lasting finish. It is nearly impossible to resist now should you want to raise a glass to ring in the upcoming New Year, but it should also age impeccably.
92 Miranda Franco Dec 29, 2020

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($65, Vineyard Brands):

Made with a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier, this Brut Champagne is rich and round, in the mouth with flavors of apple, pear and citrus, balanced with lively acidity. It will be welcome as an aperitif, or at the table with shrimp tempura. Delamotte is owned by the Laurent-Perrier Group that also owns Salon and De Castellane.
92 Rebecca Murphy Nov 14, 2023

Delbeck, Champagne (France) Brut “Heritage” NV ($66, Broadbent Selections):

Never having tasted a wine from this house previously, I was extremely impressed by this non-vintage brut. It is rich and deeply flavored, with broad texture and a long, generous finish, but still good balance and finesse. Its freshness and lifted finish suggests that it didn’t get its impressive flavor impact from excessive reliance upon yeast notes, and the balance of base and reserve wines in the blend is very well done. At this price you should expect a lot, and in this case the wine delivers. 92 Michael Franz Oct 20, 2009

Deutz, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004 ($85, Maisons Marques and Domaines):

This lovely Champagne shows wonderfully interesting texture, with a

kind of fluffiness when the wine first hits one’s tongue but then a creamy aspect as well (which shows up in the wine’s finish, and especially as it warms a bit after the first few sips). Made entirely from Chardonnay, this is not a lean, cutting Blanc de Blancs, but rather a soft, luxurious one, with notable fruity sweetness rather than an austere Brut finish. Very fresh and lively despite its sweetness, this will perform beautifully as a stand-alone aperitif or as a partner to delicately salty or spicy foods.

Drappier, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($55): Drappier, a small family-run house, has been making Champagne since the early 19th century. They are one of the few houses that make a rosé Champagne entirely from Pinot Noir by the saignée method. That is, they press the Pinot Noir grapes, let the juice and skins remain in contact for a few days, just enough time to extract a touch of color, and then perform the secondary fermentation on the resulting pink-colored wine. (Most houses produce rosé Champagne by adding about 15 percent still red wine to the blend.) This gorgeous rosé Champagne combines power and elegant with a refreshing cutting edge. Refreshing as an aperitif, it’s a pleasure to take it to the table to accompany grilled salmon.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017

Drappier, Champagne (France) “Rosé de Saignée” Brut NV ($60, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.):

Michel Drappier, one of Champagne's unsung stars, has created an exceptional NV Brut Rosé. Made by the saignée method, this Rosé has tannins, minerality, and exuberant aromatics of damp rose, red fruit, blood orange, and a soft touch of wild herbs. It then oozes with flavors of red berries, plums, orange peel, and ripe orchard fruit that mingle with brioche and marzipan flavor notes. This is not an angular Rosé. It boasts ripe, complex, and supple textures that deliver the utmost pleasure.
92 Miranda Franco Aug 29, 2023

Drappier, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($51, Dreyfus Ashby):

Few houses make a non-vintage blanc de blancs because Chardonnay, the only grape allowed for that moniker, is not widely planted in Champagne and most producers need it to balance their blends. Fortunately, Drappier does. Creamy with a firm backbone, it delivers a paradoxical combination of richness and austerity that’s hard to explain. Lovely as a stand-alone aperitif because of its length, its edginess makes it a brilliant choice to accompany sautéed shrimp, scallops or similarly rich seafood.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2015

Gatinois, Champagne (France) "Vintage Brut Grand Cru" 2006 ($70, Polaner): Gatinois, a family run firm located in the village of Äy, focuses on Pinot Noir-based Champagne because Äy is a Grand Cru village that is one of the top places for that varietal. As such, all their Champagnes have the power associated with that grape. Their 2006, made entirely from Pinot Noir, is intense, yet retains elegance and verve. Long and forceful, it’s a great choice to carry to the table after sipping it as an aperitif. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013

Gosset, Champagne (France) “Grand Rosé” Brut NV ($80, Palm Bay International):

Subtle pigmentation recalling onion skin suggests a refined rosé, and that’s what this turns out to be, though the depth and flavor impact are entirely in keeping with the generous Gosset house style. Fine effervescence and perfectly integrated acidity give this a luxurious feel, and though you could pay much more for a vintage-dated Cuvée de Prestige, you’d have a hard time finding one that could outperform this wine. 92 Michael Franz Dec 13, 2011

Gosset, Champagne (France) Brut "Grande Réserve" NV ($60, Palm Bay International):

I love all of Gosset's Champagnes, and yet I think that this is the pick of the entire litter in terms of value. Like all Gosset bottlings, it shows lots of depth and power, but there is also a sophisticated, nuanced character here that no doubt is attributable to an average age of five years under cork. Consumers sometimes think of Champagne as a fluffy little drink, but really excellent Champagne is in fact extremely powerful in its way, and really requires years of ageing to attain its full potential. Gosset makes a practice of getting its wines much closer to that full potential than most houses, and yet you can still hold them for fuller development for years, even in the case of non-vintage wines like this. It is rich and deeply flavored, with very expressive aromas and a long, symmetrical finish, and it is more than a match for many “Cuvée de Prestige” Champagnes priced over $100. 92 Michael Franz Dec 13, 2011

Gosset, Champagne (France) “Grand Rosé” NV ($80, Palm Bay International):

This wine shows Gosset's house style in a very convincing way, with expressive aromas and impressive depth of flavor, but also a very stylish profile that finishes with freshness and lift rather than with a heavy, excessively yeasty "thud." Most critics adore Rosé Champagnes, but I am generally not among them, finding most rosé bottlings ponderous and lacking in freshness and flair. There are exceptions, of course, but very few of them ring up at this price level rather than at rates exceeding $100. The abundant effervescence in this wine provides energy for the flavors, and yet the fine texture of the mousse lends an impression of softness and delicacy. The wine is as impressive for what it is not as for what it is. 92 Michael Franz Dec 21, 2010

Gosset, Champagne (France) "Grande Reserve" NV ($68, Palm Bay International): Even as I cringe at many of the prices coming out of Champagne, I am prepared to concede there is the occasional great value, such as this latest release of the multi-vintage Grande Reserve brut from Gosset. This is a dazzling Champagne, a cuvee crafted from three separate vintages using only grapes from grands and premier cru vineyards. The cuvee is a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, with the black grapes assuming the dominant position. The wine was aged about five years on the yeast before disgorgement, and it shows. This is a rich, savory, complex Champagne that offers aromas of brioche, toasted almond and fig, remarkable depth and power, with a long, crisp finish. A stunner at this price. 92 Robert Whitley Nov 18, 2008

Gosset, Champagne (France) Grand Rosé NV ($85, Palm Bay Imports): A remarkable wine that is at once delicate and powerful, this shows

impressive depth of flavor and breadth on the palate, yet finishes with uncanny lift and elegance. This is presumably due to the fact that the majority portion of the wine consists of Chardonnay, with the rest being Pinot Noir aside from 9% still Pinot Noir (from the famed villages of Bouzy and Ambonnay) blended in for color. Rich and deeply satisfying, with lots of soft effervecesence, this finishes with plenty of fresh acidity to counterbalance the wine's weight and leave one craving another sip. 92 Michael Franz Dec 15, 2009

Gosset, Champagne (France) 'Brut Excellence' NV ($45, Palm Bay International): It is unusual to find a non-vintage brut Champagne with the power and length of Gosset's Brut Excellence, which has the heft and commanding presence of vintage Champagne. Only the top houses can pull this off, and Gosset is one of the finest. It is perhaps worth noting that Gosset is one of the few houses that still ferments its grape in small oak casks, which has a profound impact on the texture of the finished wine. And Gosset eschews malolactic fermentation, preferring to make a Champagne that is good for the long haul. The results is a full-bodied Champagne that delivers that rare combination of power and finesse that separate Champagne from other sparkling wines. Very complex, with a fine bead. Though a bit pricey, in its niche it is a relative bargain. 92 Robert Whitley Aug 25, 2009

Gosset, Champagne (France) Excellence Brut NV ($48):

Claiming to be “the oldest wine house in Champagne (Aÿ 1584),” Gosset makes a stylish line-up of wines. Their creamy and refined “Excellence,” their entry-level, non-vintage offering, delivers great enjoyment for the price. A good spine of acidity balances its pleasing roundness. Not a powerhouse, it impresses with its elegance and grace.
92 Michael Apstein May 3, 2022

Henriot, Champagne (France) Rosé NV ($65, Henriot, Inc.):

If you haven’t had an opportunity to taste the Champagnes from the house of Henriot, this is a great time to dive in, as the current releases are terrific. This is an exemplary rosé that is at once satisfyingly flavorful (as one would expect from a rosè) but also quite fresh and elegant. So well integrated is the dosage that the wine seems neither dry nor sweet, and both the aromas and flavors show subtly fruity notes that are so well integrated with the biscuity, yeasty notes that the wine seems complex and yet seamless. Outstanding winemaking here. 92 Michael Franz Dec 20, 2011

Jacquesson, Champagne (France) “Cuveé no. 733” NV ($65, Vintage '59 Imports): This is an exemplary Champagne in several respects, not the least of

which is that it is labeled with its dosage (a relatively low 2.5 grams per liter) and disgorgement date (second quarter of 2008) indicated on the back label. Jacquesson is known for crafting Champagnes that achieve balance based on low yields rather than sugar, and this blend of 52% Chardonnay, 24% Pinot Meunier and 24% Pinot Noir is indeed very well balanced. The fruit is notable but restrained, and the yeast notes show a subtle but very alluring nutty, mineral character that lends real interest in the finish, which is long and symmetrical. 92 Michael Franz Oct 6, 2009

Jacquesson, Champagne (France) “Cuveé no. 734” NV ($65, Vintage ’59 Imports): This is an ultra-conscientious house that merits the attention of all who

take Champagne seriously as wine. You’ll find more helpful information on the back label of this wine than any comparable bottling of which I know, including the blend (54% Chardonnay, 26% Pinot Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir), the disgorging date (fourth quarter of 2009), the predominant vintage (2006, at 73% of the blend, with the balance comprised by reserve wines), the regional source (all Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Blancs and Marne Valley) and the dosage (5 grams per liter). The dosage is twice the stated level of the preceding Cuvée 733, though the 734 still tastes quite conspicuously dry, with yeast that is restrained and very well balanced against the other aromas and flavors. Notably mineral in flavor and finish, this is a subtle wine but not an austere one, with many intricacies of aroma and flavor that could prove very surprising to those who’ve tasted nothing but aggressively sugared mass market Champagnes. 92 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2010

Jean Diot, Champagne (France) Extra Brut NV ($50):

Those looking to reduce the amount of sugar in their diet can rejoice in the current trend toward Extra Brut in Champagne and other sparkling wine producing regions. This can be a little confusing at first. Extra Brut is not the same as Extra Dry. Though the French word brut translates to the English word dry Extra Dry on a bottle of bubbly means “dry with a little extra” – sugar that is. Extra Brut on a label tells you that little or no dosage is used, keeping the residual sugar around a half gram per liter or less. Extra Dry, on the other hand generally refers to a sparkler with residual sugar around 15 grams per liter. While this may not sound like a huge difference, it’s certainly apparent in the glass. Lesson over – let’s get to the wine at hand. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier finished at 4.5 grams per liter residual sugar, the Jean Diot presents crisp and very dry, with aromas and flavors of toast, apple and citrus, finishing cleanly and watering the mouth for another sip. Cellared 48 months prior to release, it shows pleasant yeasty character and complementary autolysis tones. A nice buy for the holidays!
92 Rich Cook Nov 19, 2019

Jean Josselin, Champagne (France) “Cuvée des Jean” NV ($52, HB Wine Merchants):

Côte des Bar is a less well-known region of Champagne compared to the other three, Montagne de Reims, Côtes des Blancs, and Vallée de la Marne. That said, some terrific Champagne, such as ones from Jean Josselin, comes from that region located at the southern end of the Champagne appellation, closer to Burgundy. The climate and soli, Kimmerigdian limestone, are said to favor Pinot Noir, which explains why that grape comprises roughly 90 percent of the plantings in the Côte des Bar. Josselin’s Cuvée des Jean, made entirely from Pinot Noir, has a pale-yellow color and a welcome lightness that does not come at the expense of persistence or stature. It has, what I call the "flavor without weight" of red Burgundy — but it’s white and bubbly.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2022

Jean Milan, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV ($42):

It’s unusual to see non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne in which all the grapes come from villages classified as Grand Cru and especially at this price. Though quite intense, the elegance of Chardonnay comes through. The spine of acidity keeps it fresh. This is a fantastic buy.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2019

Jean-Noël Haton, Champagne (France) Brut "Classic" NV ($36, T. Elenteny / Lanterna):

This wine was -- unquestionably -- the non-vintage Brut Champagne find of the year for me in 2018. Made entirely of black grapes (60% Pinot Meunier and 40% Pinot Noir), it shows excellent richness and depth of flavor while still remaining fresh. If you were looking for a point of comparative reference in a Champagne from a big, well-known house, Pol Roger “White Foil” would be a good choice, though this wine is a bit less elegant but even more complex. I suspect there’s a significant portion of reserve wine in the blend, as the bottle I tasted was perfectly mature, with layered flavors incorporating wonderful savory, toasty undertones along with some nice snap from fresh acidity. An entry on the label indicates that this “Maison” was founded in 1928, but there’s still no website…just a “placeholder” page promising one in January of 2019, so you know almost as much as I do about Haton “Classic”… except that I know that I’ll be buying it at my first opportunity. A steal at this price.
92 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2019

Laurent Perrier, Champagne (France) “La Cuvée” Brut NV ($50, Laurent-Perrier USA):

With all the fuss people make about “grower” Champagne, the big houses, the Grands Marques, can be forgotten. That’s a shame because they can consistently turn out stylish wines. For example, look no further than this non-vintage one from Laurent Perrier, a house that has been making Champagne for over two centuries. A seamless Chardonnay-dominant (55%) blend with Pinot Noir (35%) and Pinot Meunier, it delivers crisp elegance and just the right amount of intensity. That hard-to-achieve combination allows you to enjoy it as a welcoming aperitif and then at the table with seafood-based first course.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2021

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) “La Cuvée" Brut NV ($45):

A toasty, fresh expression – dry and crisp, with pear and apple aromas and flavors, and a powerful yeasty finish that keeps the fruit flavors coming. A wide appeal bubbly for all occasions, from solo salutations to a mild cheese course, it’s a classy partner.
92 Rich Cook Dec 24, 2019

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) "La Cuvée" Brut NV ($50):

Of the big Champagne houses, Laurent-Perrier is among my favorites for the money. Their La Cuvée Brut is a blend of Chardonnay (50% or more), Pinot Noir (30-35%), and (Meunier 10-15%). It strikes a nice balance between autolytic character and vibrant acidity. Place your nose to the glass, and scents of oyster shell, lemon rind, and a touch of fresh baked bread all leap from the glass. Taking a sip, the wine erupts with lightning-like acidity, but as that acidic crescendo fades, you are left with a supple roundness, a result of lengthy lees aging. At around $50, this is a fantastic Champagne for any occasion.
92 John McDermott Nov 14, 2023

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) ”Ultra Brut” NV ($55, Laurent-Perrier US):

Most Champagnes have some level of sweetness added after the bottle is relieved of the yeasts that created that those oh so wonderful, tiny bubbles in the bottle, just before the cork is inserted. Such is not the case with this wine, though the producer has made a point of using the ripest grapes, so we have imminently drinkable fizz. The aromas are fresh, floral and lightly yeasty, and the flavors include citrus and floral with chalky mineral notes and bright acidity. It’s crisp and refreshing without being austere, and only 65 calories per glass! 92 Rebecca Murphy Aug 21, 2012

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($39): This must be one of the greatest steals among current releases of non-vintage brut Champagne. Because the non-vintage brut rose from Laurent-Perrier is such a show-stopper, it's easy to overlook the traditional brut cuvee, until you talk about price. The L-P brut is less than half the price of the rose although the two Champagnes are comparable in quality. The current brut shows notes of brioche and honey, with crunchy fruits such as apple and pear. It is fruity yet with great energy and structure, and the flavors are persistent through a long, clean finish.
92 Robert Whitley Mar 25, 2014

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Ultra Brut NV ($80): This is a stunning example of the potential for dry Champagne made without dosage to balance the acidity. It is austere in some ways, but Laurent-Perrier overcomes that with a fresh, fruity palate of flavors that pair with everything from freshly shucked oysters to grilled fish. It is steely, with noticeable minerality, and a refreshing finish that cleanses the palate.
92 Robert Whitley Mar 25, 2014

Louis Massing, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé Premier Cru NV ($55, Artisans & Vines):

This is a very good Rosé Champagne, exhibiting the richness and depth of flavor expected by buyers of Rosé, but without veering to the extreme of seeming too obviously fruity or “winey” at the cost of the fluffiness and charm that any Champagne show also deliver. A genuinely dry wine, it is nevertheless not austere at all, and the winemaking team got the dosage just right. Appropriately expressive yeastiness provides complexity without proving distracting, and the finish shows enough acidity to keep this fresh and enable it to work well as an aperitif or a partner for a seated first course.
92 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2019

Maison Breton Fils, Champagne (France) "Tradition" Brut NV ($61, Studio Beverage Group):

For someone who enjoys sparkling wine on a regular basis, there aren’t a lot of wines that top a good Champagne. Breton Fils’ Tradition Brut is both excellent and classically styled. Bright acidity supports zippy pear, green apple, apricot, and lemon notes. The wine is aged on the lees for three years giving texture and flavor to the body including biscuit and cinnamon notes. The effervescence and finish are both prominent in the experience. My personal recommendation is to drink this out of your regular daily use wine glass to get the full experience.
92 Vince Simmon Oct 10, 2023

Marie Courtin, Champagne (France) "Résonance" Extra Brut NV ($55, Polaner Selections):

This is a beautiful Champagne from the village of Polisot in the Côte des Bars subregion. The Marie Courtin Résonance Extra Brut is made entirely of Pinot Noir with no dosage. It shows a rich bouquet of citrus peel, red cherries and berries along with hints of mint, cream and the toasty and yeasty character the Methode Champenoise imparts. Rich, complex and bone dry on the palate, it pleases with its complex combination of citrus and berry fruits with nutty, yeasty, and creamy nuances. Its full flavors, high complexity and long finish add up to a totally satisfying Champagne that invites you to take another sip.
92 Wayne Belding Jun 10, 2014

Moët & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut “Imperial” NV ($45, LVMH):

I am so impressed that the largest-selling Champagne in the world can maintain such high quality annually. In fact, Moët's Brut Imperial is better than ever since its brilliant winemaker, Benoit Gouez, lowered its dosage to 9 grams per liter. The Brut Imperial is dominated by black grapes; usually up to 80 percent Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with the balance Chardonnay. It is fresh, lively, and dry, with a delicious fruity finish.
92 Ed McCarthy Dec 17, 2013

Nicolas Feuillatte, Champagne (France) Brut "Reserve Exclusive" NV ($40, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates):

Nicolas Feuillatte’s Brut Reserve Exclusive hits a sweet spot for Champagne in terms of availability, cost, and quality. Frequently found for between $30 and $40 (and often available in grocery stores and bottle shops), this Champagne still manages to bring a lovely complexity and an eminent drinkability. Notes of lemons, almonds, apples, and pears all come through in the glass. The wine’s sharp acidity transitions seamlessly into a pleasantly rounded mouthfeel, a result of 36 to 48 months of lees aging and a dosage of 6 to 10 grams per liter of sugar.
92 John McDermott Nov 21, 2023

Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Brut NV ($90, Quintessential Wines):

In 1947, seven well-established Grand Cru growers in Champagne formed one of the best quality-focused cooperatives and named it Palmer & Co. Today, there are over 300 growers, farming over 400 hectares of vineyards in the Montagne de Reims, of which half are Grand and Premier Crus quality. Only recently did they begin to make a concerted effort to grow in the US market. If you have never heard of Champagne Palmer, you are in for a real treat. Their NV Blanc de Blancs Brut has aromas of citrus fruit, white flowers, pastry, and almonds jumping from the glass. On the palate, it's fresh with ample acidity, but its soft layers make it pleasurable from start to finish.
92 Miranda Franco Jun 15, 2021

Perrier-Jouet, Champagne (Epernay, France) Grand Brut NV ($52): This infamous Champagne house in the heart of Epernay is best known for its stunning tetes de cuvee, Belle Epoque, otherwise known as the "flower bottle." It is an ex[pensive drink and deserves its lofty reputation. These days, however, the step down to the non-vintage Grand Brut is hardly a nosedive. The current release of Grand Brut is among the finest I have experienced, and certainly one of the most compelling Champagnes in its price range. The once-austere style of Grand Brut has evolved in recent years, resulting in a sophisticated multi-vintage cuvee that exhibits exquisite balance and beautiful finesse. On the palate the bubbles are soft and inviting despite an underlying backbone of steel, and the aromas of citrus and brioche linger through the finish despite their profound subtlety. 92 Robert Whitley Dec 25, 2012

This is a wickedly good bottle of Piper, and one of the best wines

that I've ever tasted from this house. The aromas are extremely expressive, with wonderful notes of baked apples, wild honey, and fresh brioche. The body is full and rich, with great depth of flavor and wonderfully energetic, fine-grained effervescence. There's lots of fresh acidity to provide structure for all the dramatic flavors, enabling the wine's persistent aftertaste to taper slowly to a clean, classy conclusion.

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Cuvée NV ($45, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

Founded in 1785, this venerable Champagne firm passed into the hands of the Descours family about a decade ago. Its non-vintage Brut has since taken a leap in quality. I remember Piper-Heidsieck as an ordinary Champagne a decade ago, lean and angular. Well, that’s changed. A red-grape-predominant blend (about 50% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier) explains its power. The Chardonnay, that fills out the blend, and the use of 20% reserve wine, likely accounts for a striking elegance, which is all the more welcome considering the wine’s power. It’s an excellent buy, considering how Champagne prices have taken off.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) “Extra Cuvée de Reserve” Brut Rosé 1999 ($100, Wildman): I don't generally think of Pol Roger as a great rosé Champagne house, but I most certainly think of this wine as a great rosé Champagne. Although it avoids the coarse chunkiness that occasionally afflicts rosés, it nevertheless delivers the richness and breadth which is the signature of Pol Roger wines. It is fresh and nimble enough to be thoroughly enjoyable on its own, but also sufficiently substantial to work well with many foods. 92 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2007

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve “White Foil” NV ($50, Frederick Wildman):

Pol Roger is not a small Champagne house, and yet the wines always seem carefully crafted, complex and classy. Moreover, they always seem to combine richness and depth of flavor with an uncanny delicacy and freshness. One often sees Pol Roger classified as having a full-bodied "house style," but that's really doing a dis-service to this excellent producer...the wines are simply too complex to classify simply. Perhaps most impressive of all is the fact that these characteristics are consistently present even in this, the house’s entry-level wine. The current non-vintage batch in the USA is terrific and widely available.
92 Michael Franz Dec 26, 2017

Pommery, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Brut 2004 ($70): Pommery has succeeded brilliantly with their 2004. A blend of wines made from grapes grown only in Grand Cru villages, this mid-weight Champagne conveys extraordinary persistence and polish. Layers of subtle toastiness and creaminess make each sip a new discovery. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012

Raymond Boulard, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($43, Williams Corner Wine):

Balanced very nicely between the freshness of youth and the complexity of age, this currently seems almost optimally mature. The flavors are bright but also deep and extended, and very fine-grained effervescence was at once energetic and soft. Very enthusiastically recommended. 92 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2010

Roland Champion, Champagne (France) “Cuvée d'Aramis” Brut NV ($52, Kysela Pere et Fils):

Roland Champion is a small, family-owned Champagne producer, now into its the fourth generation, located in the village of Chouilly. Their Cuvée d'Aramis is an opulent stunner made from 70% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay. The palate is dynamic, with incredible vibrancy and layers of salt-sprinkled apple, Meyer lemon, pear, honeysuckle, brioche, toasted almonds, crushed chalk, and a hint of spice. It is creamy on the palate, rounded on the edges, and is still evolving in the bottle.
92 Miranda Franco Jul 19, 2022

Ruinart, Champagne (France) NV ($82, Moët Hennessey): Founded in 1729, Ruinart is Champagne’s oldest house. They focus on Chardonnay, which explains why their stylish and elegant rosé contains such a large proportion of it in the blend, typically 45%. The remainder of the blend is Pinot Noir, which contributes bright red berry fruit notes. The Chardonnay imparts crispness and freshness and balances Pinot Noir’s more powerful contribution. Creamy and seductive, it is incredibly easy to drink. It’s also one of the few top-notch rosés that come in half bottles.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2013

Soutiran, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV ($66, Vintage '59 Imports):

This gorgeous wine is very soft and sexy, with a creamy feel on the palate due to the weight of the fruit, the softness of the mousse, and relatively ripe acidity. The flavors are also quite broad, and though there's plenty of acidity to balance all of the soft, ripe dimensions of the wine, it shows up fairly late in the series of sensory impressions in the wine's finish, which accentuates its sensuous, creamy character. 92 Michael Franz Nov 11, 2008

Taittinger, Champagne (France) Rosé “Prestige” Brut NV ($65, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Almost everyone in the wine writing world loves to love rosé Champagnes, but I confess I’ve never gotten on that bandwagon. Rosés from Champagne often seem (to me, at least) to lack the elegance, complexity and minerality that distinguish true Champagne from the many pretenders to its throne, and I rarely find that the bigger body in rosés is worth the trade. However, Taittinger’s elegant style seems to protect this house from turning out chunky, overt wines, and indeed the pale, delicate color of this wine is a welcome sign of restraint before one even gets a nose into the glass. Light yeasty aromas are quite appealing but still subtle, allowing the lovely red fruit notes to hold center stage on the mid-palate and through the finish, which is flavorful but never obvious. This is a great choice for those wishing to experience a truly classy rosé Champagne, but who may not quite be prepared to pony up for the other-worldly Taittinger “Comtes de Champagne” Brut Rosé.
92 Michael Franz Jul 16, 2013

Taittinger, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs “Comtes de Champagne” 2002 ($169, Kobrand):

Toasty and extremely nutty, with a minerally finish. Very fresh and vibrant, but if you're looking for a fruit-driven Champagne, this isn't it. However, if you like hazelnuts, you're in heaven. A bit tightly wound, and would be interesting to taste it in a few years, but also hard to hold off on popping the cork right now.

Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Les Folies de la Marquetterie” Brut NV ($100, Kobrand):

Les Folies de la Marquetterie bottle is not meant to replace or compete with Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne, which remains their Tête du Cuvée, or super-premium, Champagne. Indeed, the blend of grapes in Les Folies de la Marquetterie leans heavily on Pinot Noir, whereas their Comtes de Champagne is made entirely from Chardonnay. The grapes for it come from a single vineyard 10-acre parcel around the original château. Taittinger ages a portion of it in oak barrels, then for five years on its lees, which along with the reliance on Pinot Noir, makes this a bigger, richer and rounder Champagne, almost giving the allusion of sweetness though the dosage is low, 9 grams, similar to the more steely Comtes de Champagne. A great aperitif, its richness makes it a good choice at the table as well.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014

Vilmart & Cie, Champagne (France) “Grand Cellier d’Or” 2009 ($95, Terry Theise Selections): The Champagne house of Vilmart produces a range of fine Champagnes from their Montagne de Reims vineyards. They age their base wines in cask for several months, and the finished Champagnes reflect the soft richness that barrel age imbues in the wines. Sourced from a single vineyard in Rilly-la-Montagne, the 2009 Grand Cellier d’Or (blended from 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir) shows a lovely combination of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir character. The bouquet offers pure, apple, lemon and cherry fruits with toasty, yeasty and creamy nuances. On the palate, it is vivid, creamy and layered with the apple, cherry and citrus tones interwoven with the toasty, yeasty and subtly spicy elements that barrel age provides. The overall impression is lively, layered and complex.
92 Wayne Belding Dec 23, 2014

Ayala's 1999 Vintage Brut is a typical Champagne from Aÿ, 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay, with at least 99% of the grapes from Grands Cru villages. It is powerful, full-bodied, and yet very accessible now. The 1999 vintage in Champagne was a good, bountiful year, producing early-drinking Champagnes. But with its virtually 100% Grands Crus grapes, Ayala's 1999 should age well for another five or six years. The Ayala 1999 Brut has been aged on its lees for six years, and has a dosage of 8.2 g/l.

Billecart-Salmon, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($53, Monsieur Touton Selection):

Billecart-Salmon is Champagne's oldest continuously family-owned and operated house. Notably, they are one of only a handful of family-owned Champagne houses over 200 years old. The house's longevity and experience show in the quality of their Brut Réserve -- a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier. It offers baked yellow apple, juicy white peach, white pear, lemon, and brioche aromas. The palate is layered with mouthwatering citrus, creamy stone fruit, and orchard fruit flavors. This opulent stunner delivers a lush profile that builds into a lengthy finish.
91 Miranda Franco Dec 21, 2021

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "2003 by Bollinger" 2003 ($125, Terlato Wines International): The 2003 vintage was challenging in Champagne; many houses have opted not to produce Vintage Champagnes in a year marked by both torrid heat and thunderstorms, which destroyed much of the crop. It was also the earliest harvest in Champagne (the end of August) since 1822! Bollinger selected grapes from two of its best grand cru Pinot Noir vineyards and one premier cru Chardonnay vineyard and produced a small quantity of '2003 by Bollinger.' It is not called 'Grande Année' (the customary name of Bollinger's Vintage Champagne) because its style is atypical for Bollinger. It has a fine, lively mousse, which was still very lively an hour after being poured. Its color is medium gold, slightly lighter than Bollinger's other Champagnes. The 2003 is fresh tasting, with delicious pear and apple fruit flavors, but lacking Bollinger's characteristic earthiness. After an hour of aeration, it started to take on more of the biscuity flavors typical of Bollinger. I found the 2003 to be very enjoyable, although definitely different from other Bollinger Champagnes. The many fans of Bollinger will enjoy discussing it, as a curiosity. 91 Ed McCarthy Jan 8, 2008

Champagne Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) Brut Nature "Philippe Starck" 2009 ($90, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Named after the designer Philippe Starck, who created the label and envisioned the wine’s style, this is Louis Roederer’s first new Champagne since its Cristal Rosé was introduced with the 1974 vintage. The secret for

producing a Champagne with no dosage, according to Lécaillon, is to find vineyards that produce ripe Pinot Noir and to carefully choose a warmer vintage, such as 2009. Roederer’s Brut Nature was introduced with the 2006 vintage; the 2009 is its 2nd vintage. The Pinot Noir (its main grape) comes from vineyards in Cumières, which are also used by the exceptional grower-producer, Georges Laval. Chardonnay (about one-third) is also in the blend. The Brut Nature has intense floral aromas, and is more full-bodied than one would expect from a brut nature Champagne. Aged for five years in the cellar. For me, it is still too young to enjoy now. I would wait two or three years before drinking it, at which point it may merit at least another 2 points being added to this score.
91 Ed McCarthy Mar 21, 2017

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Rosé NV ($99, Wilson Daniels):

If Valentine's Day will incline you to splurge on a bottle of pink Champagne, you'll have a tough time finding a more delicious option than this wine without spending considerably more money. This shows wonderful balance between its substantial side (relatively rich fruit with an engaging, fruity sweetness) and its more delicate dimension (very soft, fine-grained effervescence and bright, refreshing acidity). The yeast notes are very subtle, which enables the wine to remain very fresh and fruity, yet there's nothing obvious about it, as nice little nuances of bread dough and nuts are evident as pleasant backnotes. 91 Michael Franz Feb 3, 2009

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($66, Vineyard Brands):

Delamotte’s current crop of non-vintage Brut is very good, with expressive aromas and very fine balance on the palate between bright, fresh notes and deeper tones. This bottling shows notably less aging than the Blanc de Blancs, which is neither advantageous nor disadvantageous in the abstract; consumers who like their Champagne energetic and frothy will likely prefer this bottling, though I found the Blanc de Blancs significantly more complex. This Brut will surely gain complexity if aged after purchase, and could benefit from at least two or three years of cellaring for those who are able to handle it that way.
91 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2021

Diebolt-Vallois, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Prestige NV ($46, Petit Pois):

Diebolt-Vallois, a family domaine, is located in Cramant, a village in the heart of the Côte de Blancs, the part of the Champagne region that is best suited for Chardonnay. Indeed, the grapes for this wine come from three villages in the Côte de Blancs that are rated Grand Cru: Cramant, Chouilly and Le Mesnil sur Oger. The wine, austere and elegant, is very edgy and long, showing the finesse of Chardonnay. A lovely way to start an evening, it is also perfect with oysters. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2018

Jean-Noël Haton, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($45, T. Elenteny / Lanterna):

Based on my (admittedly limited) experience, this house can do no wrong. I loved this Rosé, which shows more fruit than either the “Classic” or “Héritage" bottlings, but not so much as to seem obvious -- just a bit more “winey” and juicy by comparison. These are the prime reasons for buying Rosé Champagne in the first place (aside from whatever pleasure one might take in the color), and this wine definitely delivers the goods, offering nice complexities beneath the generous fruit. As lovers of Champagne are surely aware, Rosé bottlings are always pricier than their blonde siblings, though there’s no justification for this in terms of production costs. Consequently, I’d certainly steer cost-conscious consumers toward either the Classic” or “Héritage" wines from Haton, but Rosé lovers are highly unlikely to find a better example than this one in the price range around $45.
91 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2019

Leclerc-Briant, Champagne (France) Réserve Brut NV ($69, Winebow): F

ollowing the sudden death of Pascal Briant in 2012, this well-regarded house was purchased by an American couple, Mark Nunelly and Denise Dupré, who have continued to operate it under the cellar leadership of Frédéric Zeimett. This brut – a blend of 40% each Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with 20% Chardonnay – is a very enjoyable, yet no-nonsense wine, tightly wound with good flavor intensity, muted apple flavors, a few hints of creaminess and metallic minerality in the finish.
91 Roger Morris Nov 28, 2023

Louis Massing, Champagne (France) Brut Grande Réserve NV ($45, Artisans & Vines):

This non-vintage Brut from Louis Massing is significantly better than many comparable wines from big Champagne houses, so you should seriously consider it when stocking up for holiday celebrations this year. Medium-plus in body, it offers expressive aromas and quite impressive depth of flavor. Nicely fresh but also quite complex (no doubt thanks to a judicious dose of reserve wine from years prior to the base vintage), this is very satisfying while also staying light on its feet.
91 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2019

Marc Hébrart, Champagne (France) Rosé Brut NV ($59, Skurnik):

The Marc Hébrart Champagne house farms vines on many sites around the village of Marieul-sur-Aÿ. Their Rosé Brut (made from 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir) is a ripe and luscious Champagne. The color is a lovely salmon hue. The bouquet shows berry and cherry fruit with nuances of yeast, toast and wildflowers. The flavors are ripe and forward, with the juicy fruit underlain by yeasty, toasty and subtle spice tones. If you want to toast the holidays with a fine Champagne this year, the Hébrart will be a fine and elegant choice.
91 Wayne Belding Nov 18, 2014

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) 'Nectar Imperial' NV ($43, Moet Hennessy USA):

Here's a novel idea, particularly apt should you have the late seating on New Year's Eve. Rather than one of those blockbuster (and expensive) tetes de cuvee Champagnes to ring in the New Year, order a glass (or, better, a bottle) of demi-sec Champagne and enjoy your toast with either the dessert or cheese course. You will thank me for this suggestion, I promise! Moet & Chandon's Nectar Imperial is an excellent bubbly for this occasion because it's sweet, but not too sweet, making it enjoyable on its own. Nectar Imperial delivers succulent peach and pear aromas, with hints of vanilla and almond, and a creamy texture that's simpy yummy.

Möet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Rosé "Imperial” NV ($50):

In Champagne, producers strive to create and maintain a specific house style with their non-vintage offerings, using wines from several vintages to bring consistency year in and year out. This Rosé is true Möet -- crisp, very dry, scouring acidity, and elegant feel and a fine mousse serve to deliver strawberry, lemon and faint spice notes, with a mouth-watering finish that keeps you interested. A great aperitif!
91 Rich Cook Jun 10, 2014

Moussé Fils, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Noire Réserve” NV ($49, Terry Theise Selections):

Moussé Fils is a grower and producer in the Vallée de la Marne of Champagne. Nestled in the village of Cuisles just north of the Marne, Moussé makes Champagne that celebrates the character of the Pinot Meunier. The Cuvée Noire Réserve (blended from 85% Pinot Meunier and 15% Pinot Noir) offers beautiful berry and cherry fruit aromas infused with subtle floral and yeasty tones. The flavors are pure and exciting, with layers of cherry and berry fruit enhanced by the creamy texture and long finish. If you want a Champagne with purity of fruit and a soft, rich style, try the Moussé Fils.
91 Wayne Belding Nov 11, 2014

Nicolas Feuillatte, Champagne (France) "Reserve Exclusive" Brut NV ($38):

In the world of non-vintage brut Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte Reserve Exclusive is a tough act to follow when it comes to price. This excellent cuvee delivers aromas of crunchy apple and citrus, shows a delicious note of toasty brioche, and exhibits impressive length on the palate. And Nicolas Feuillatte beats just about all the other serious Champagne houses on price.
91 Robert Whitley Oct 13, 2020

Paul-Etienne Saint Germain, Champagne (France) Rosé NV ($50): The blend -- 90 percent Pinot Noir and the remainder Chardonnay -- explains the power of this Champagne. But its appeal is not just its power. It has depth and most important, impeccable balance. Nothing seems out of place. Yes, drink it as an aperitif, but it’s sturdy enough to stand up to a salad Niçoise ladened with grilled rare tuna.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017

Perrier-Jouët, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs “Belle Epoque” 2002 ($210, Pernod Ricard USA):

Perrier-Jouët, Champagne (France) Rosé “Blaison” NV ($80, Pernod Ricard USA):

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($45, Terlato):

No house in Champagne has done more over the past decade to restore its image than Piper-Heidsieck. Once upon a time among the most important houses in the region, Piper fell upon hard times as its reserve stocks dwindled and its non-vintage brut, the financial engine of every big house, suffered. The reserve stocks have been rebuilt and the result is a Piper-Heidsieck that once again commands the heights. The current NV brut cuvee shows notes of crunchy apple and pear, but with a richer texture and more weight on the palate than this wine showed in its lean years.
91 Robert Whitley Dec 27, 2016

This outstanding entry-level wine is one of the best Champagnes you can hope to find in an ordinary grocery store. Toasty and rich, with plenty of golden apple fruit, this wine spends 36 to 40 months in the cellars to develop a rounder mouthfeel. Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger says, "For me, a great house is carried by the non-vintage. The honor of our name is shown by the non-vintage." This wine upholds that honor.

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) 2002 ($90, Moët Hennessy USA): The excellence of this Champagne reflects the extremely favorable

conditions leading up to and during the harvest in 2002. The nose is pure and complex, with hints of minerality and ripe summer fruits. The bubbles are tiny but persistent. Keenly balanced between elegance and voluptuousness, there are suggestions of ripe peach and raspberry, as well as fruit candies. To complete the gustatory experience, the wine has a long, rewarding aftertaste. 91 Marguerite Thomas Nov 10, 2009

Ayala, Champagne (France) “Majeur” Brut NV ($45, Vintus):

Brut Majeur is the wine that defines the "fresh, elegant house style." It is made from equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with 20 percent Pinot Meunuer. Its elegant pale golden color shines with the tiniest bubbles and delightful aromas of apples, citrus, fresh flowers with yeasty notes. Flavors of apple, peach, lemon and a bit of fresh baked croissant are round and supple, while vibrant acidity and spirited bubbles bring focus and balance. From its beginning, Ayala’s house style has focused on freshness, elegance and low dosage, the amount of sweetness added to a wine before the cork is added to the bottle. That sweetness level determines how a Champagne is labeled from driest to sweetest; Nature, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Sec, Demi-Sec or Doux. The dosage for Brut Majeur is 7 grams per liter, or .07 percent, barely above the human threshold for perception of sweetness in wine. It is more common to find low dosage levels in Champagnes today because climate change means that grapes in the Champagne region get riper, so lower dosage levels are needed to create a balanced wine. Ayala’s decision to make Champagne with a dosage of 7 g/l 160 years ago was very brave.
90 Rebecca Murphy Nov 3, 2020

Ayala, Champagne (France) “Brut Majeur” NV ($40, Cognac One): Ayala takes its name from the family of Spanish aristocrats, one of

whom founded the firm, and not the town, Aÿ, in which it is based. What it does take from that town, renowned for its Pinot Noir, is a healthy amount of that variety--45%--in the blend. The remainder of the blend, 30% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Meunier, balances the power imparted by the primary grape with elegance and fruitiness. The healthy amount of reserve wine, 20%, included in this non-vintage Brut helps explain its stylish complexity. A powerful style of Champagne, think of this as a 'baby' Bollinger, the house which, not coincidently, now owns the firm. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2008

Ayala, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé "Majeur" NV ($55, Cognac One): Ayala's classic Brut Rosé NV has a light cherry color, with aromas and flavors of strawberries and raspberries. Quite dry for a rosé (only 7.5 g/l dosage) and very fresh, it has been aged on its lees for only two years. It is a blend of 51% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier, and 9% still red wine from old Pinot Noir vines. It is very elegant for a rosé, and I like the dry finish. It would complement salmon, ham, or medium-rare lamb nicely at the dinner table, and is perfect for drinking now. 90 Ed McCarthy Apr 22, 2008

Barnaut, Champagne (France) Brut 'Grande Reserve' NV ($50, Vintage '59 Imports):

This NV Brut from Barnaut is not quite as striking as the house's rich, deeply flavorful NV Blanc de Noirs, being a bit leaner and more restrained. However, its subtlety is nevertheless a strength rather than a shortcoming, and this is slightly the more complex of these two wonderful wines. Medium bodied, this shows very nice aromatics, a broad, soft effervescent texture, and a clean, persistent finish.

Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée des Moines” Brut 2002 ($70, Winesellers, Ltd.): Besserat de Bellefon is not as well known as some of the bigger players in Champagne, but it is usually absolutely delicious. The 2002 vintage is delicately frothy, and delivers vivid both fruity and floral nuances as it expands across the palate with both freshness and assertiveness. This is a great label to look for---the rosé ($60) is enchanting, and the non-vintage Brut ($50) is likewise superb. 90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 10, 2009

Champagne Jeeper, Champagne (France) Brut “Grand Assemblage” NV ($60):

If you don't mind the stubby, odd shaped bottle, here is a bold, full-bodied Champagne to enjoy. Light straw colored, it has lively, tiny bubbles with great persistence. With ripe apple and yeasty aromas, it is rich and the flavors pick up a touch of lemon to highlight the yeasty-apple combo. Mineral notes in the finish underscore the predominance of Chardonnay in the assemblage. Of the several Jeeper Champagnes now on the market, this is made for current enjoyment. But you are not allowed to say “jeepers, creepers” in a review.
90 Norm Roby Jul 19, 2022

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($54, Vineyard Brands): Delamotte wants the Blanc de Blancs style to be their signature. The

precision derived from 100% Grand Cru grapes, stainless steel fermentation, low dosage, and little reliance on reserve wines yields impressive results. A crystalline, chalky, and linear structure opens to stone fruit, crisp Granny Smith apple, and citrus finish. The wine spends 4 to 5 years on the lees, which adds complexity of yeast and dough notes. Give this wine time to age in the bottle or to open in the glass and you will be handsomely rewarded. 90 John Anderson Aug 14, 2012

Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($44, Adrian Chalk Selections):

Deutz, an under-recognized house, makes consistently lovely Champagne that are pleasantly powerful -- a substantial amount of Pinot Noir speaking -- while retaining elegance. This one, their non-vintage Brut, has an appealing roundness and mouth-filling quality. Their mid-weight style makes it easy to sip as an aperitif or to pair with a simply grilled white fish, such as sea bass. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2014

Diebolt-Vallois, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($52, Vintage '59 Imports): A lovely wine from a producer whose wines are new to me, this shows all of the delicacy and grace that one would hope for from a Blanc de Blancs Champagne. Yet, there's enough richness and depth of flavor to make it seem seriously generous rather than merely fluffy. The toasty, yeasty accents are notable but not overdone, working nicely to lend complexity to the fruit component without detracting from the overall impression of freshness. 90 Michael Franz Nov 25, 2008

Gallimard Pere et Fils, Champagne (France) Grande Réserve Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs NV ($37, Blicker, Pierce, Wagner Wine Merchants):

This Blanc de Blancs Champagne is a refreshing treat. The 100% Chardonnay structure provides fresh fruit notes of lemon and green apple, along with the extended lees aging that delivers notes of buttery brioche and almond milk. Gallimard Pere and Fils is a house in its sixth generation of negociant sourcing and father-son winemaking, buying their grapes from farmers to make wine. While this wine is suitable for a special occasion, I strongly believe that Champagne pairs with any occasion. The popular pairing in DC is fried chicken and waffles. Potato chips are even simpler but equally as good as a pairing.
90 Vince Simmon Apr 5, 2022

Henriot, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($60):

Henriot’s Blanc de Blancs is a classic 100 percent Chardonnay Champagne crafted primarily from grand cru and premier cru vineyards. The cuvee is bolstered by 40 percent reserve wines, which lend depth and richness without losing the freshness and brightness of the younger wines in the blend. Notes of citrus and apple dominate the flavor profile, with a touch of spice that adds nuance.
90 Robert Whitley Nov 13, 2018

Jacquart, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Mosaïque” Brut NV ($36, JAD Imports):

Jacquart, a small Champagne house, makes a stylish array of Champagne. This, their non-vintage Brut, dubbed Cuvée Mosaïque, delivers a lush creaminess and a hint of baked apple. A firm backbone keeps this polished bubbly in balance. Of course, it’s ideal as a stand-alone drink--and a very fine one at that -- but it also reminds us that Champagne is great with a variety of dishes. Try this one with sushi or turn a take-out roast chicken into a celebration.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2014

Jacquart, Champagne (France) Brut "Mosaique" NV ($38, JAD Imports):

This bottle shows the fresh and lively side of Champagne -- it's all about clean fruit and soft nut flavors, with a creamy texture, a frothy mousse, crisp acidity and a long lasting finish that emphasizes pear, apple and a touch of stone minerality. It's a real crowd pleaser -- it'll work for your Champagne snobs and your die hard California bubbly fans.
90 Rich Cook Oct 13, 2015

Jean Lallement et Fils, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($64, Skurnik): This is an elegant and refined rosé Champagne. Made entirely of Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims village of Verzenay, it shows the berry-ish style of the grape. Strawberry and raspberry fruits are enhanced by smoky, nutty and spicy tones. The flavors are dry and complex, with layers of fruit underscored by subtle yeast, smoke, hazelnut and spice elements that linger nicely at the finish.
90 Wayne Belding Jan 13, 2015

Joseph Perrier, Champagne (France) "Cuvée Royale" Brut NV ($42):

The Champagne firm of Joseph Perrier, founded in 1825, has no relation to Perrier-Jouët or Laurent Perrier. Joseph Perrier produces a graceful and precise non-vintage brut from roughly equal amounts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It’s a joy to sip and drink, in part, I suspect because it typically includes 20 percent of reserve wines. It’s an elegant and clean Champagne that grabs your attention with its finesse, not its power. Graceful.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2019

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) "Cuvée Rosé Brut" NV ($100, Laurent-Perrier USA): Yes, $100 is a lot of money to spend when times are tough. On the other hand, to paraphrase Winston Churchill, don't we need Champagne when times are tough? There's no denying that this is a Special Occasion splurge, but what a splurge it is! The pleasure begins with the beautiful slope-shouldered bottle that just begs to be caressed. Even the sound of the tiny bouncing bubbles as the wine is poured into a flute is enough to quicken one's pulse. The ripe cherry and strawberry aromas make the mouth water, and on the palate this Champagne is satisfyingly rich and full, with a bump of acidity followed by a dry, lingering finish. 90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 24, 2009

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) 'Brut Imperial' NV ($39, Moet Hennessy USA):

It would be difficult to argue that the world's best-selling Champagne is underrated, but I'll give it a go. The current version of Moet's flagship bubbly is a remarkable achievement when volume is taken into consideration. Brut Imperial is available the world over and no one ever seems to run short, yet quality remains very high. This unique blend of mostly Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (and only 10 percent Chardonnay) is the model of consistency, testimony to the skill of the Moet winemaking team as well as the generous use of reserve stocks to ensure every new batch of Brut Imperial measures up. This is a harmonious Champagne that exhibits bright apple, citrus and stone fruit aromas, hints of toasty brioche and mature vinous aromas on the back end. The bead is fine and elegant. Overall a classic non-vintage brut at a very fair price by today's standards. Yet so ubiquitous you might not consider it "special." That would be a mistake, for Brut Imperial remains one of Champagne's very finest non-vintage bruts.

Möet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut "Imperial” NV ($40, Moet Hennessey):

House style rings true in this popular Champagne. You can always count on Möet to deliver on your expectations for a dry, clean, palate-refreshing wine that's long on yeasty character without being ponderous. Of course it's great as a celebration starter, but don't overlook it when you're wanting a pairing for spicy oysters or mild cheeses. 90 Rich Cook Jun 10, 2014

Moutard, Champagne (France) “Grand Cuvée” Brut NV ($37, Polaner Selections):

It’s always a pleasure to find real Champagne at under $40 a bottle. This one, made entirely from Pinot Noir, delivers substantial power offset by uncanny gracefulness. It has a roundness and gentleness, despite its intensity, without being soft. Try it at Thanksgiving. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2017

Mumm, Champagne (France) “Mumm de Cramant” Grand Cru Chardonnay Brut NV ($75, Pernod Ricard USA):

This unusual wine is made entirely from Chardonnay grapes

(sourced from the Grand Cru village of Cramant), finished with lower atmospheric pressure than the norm, lending an appealingly soft creaminess. Lightly floral aromatic notes lead to a light fruit impression of lemon and green apple. The mousse is very gentle but also quite persistent, and the light freshness of the fruit combines with the soft creaminess of the wine's texture to provide a rare but thoroughly pleasurable experience. A terrific aperitif, this would also work very well with raw oysters or light preparations of freshwater fish.

Nicolas Feuillatte, Champagne (France) Brut “Cuvée Palmes D’Or” 1998 ($135, Pasternak Wine Imports):

The Champagnes made by this fairly large company tend to emphasize fresh fruit rather than yeast or minerality. This does not mean that they lack complexity, but rather that their charm comes from verve and vivacity. That’s certainly true of this prestige cuvée. It impresses first because of its brightness, and then because of its depth and length. The finish certainly is layered, with notes that echo roast nuts and freshly baked bread, but the dominant impression remains of fruit--delicious baked apples and fresh citrus.

Palmer & Co., Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($65):

This Brut Reserve from Palmer & Co is a light and airy Champagne that delivers a frothy mousse, notes of crunchy apple and citrus, and a dollop of toasty goodness.
90 Robert Whitley Dec 4, 2018

Paul Bara, Champagne (France) Grand Rosé NV ($61, Kermit Lynch):

Paul Bara is a fine producer in the village of Bouzy on the Montagne de Reims. The Grand Rosé reflects the rich, ripe style that reflects the style of both Bouzy and Bara. Ripe cherry, strawberry and sweet citrus fruits combine with hints of fresh-bread yeastiness, smoke and spice. The flavors are ripe and round, with the plush fruits backed by a creamy richness and hints of citrus peel and smoke. If you enjoy Champagnes with a smoother and softer style, the Paul Bara Grand Rosé will not disappoint.
90 Wayne Belding Jan 13, 2015

Perrier Jouët, Champagne (France) “Grand Brut” NV ($45, Pernod Ricard USA):

For as famous as this producer’s flowery “Fleur de Champagne” bottle

may be, many consumers seem to regard Perrier-Jouët as a house in the second rank, and its core product, this non-vintage brut, as an afterthought when buying Champagne. Be that as it may, the current release is as good as I’ve ever seen it, with a winning combination of richness and depth of flavor with delicate effervescence and a clean, crisp finish. It is an excellent wine and quite possibly a bargain in your market by comparison to its competitiors.

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($35, Rémy Cointreau): I have frankly not thought of Piper-Heidsieck as a top tier house in the

Champagne hierarchy for many years, but the wines I've tasted this year have changed that. The 'Rare' bottling from 1999 is spectacular, the 2000 Vintage Brut is excellent, and this straight non-vintage Brut is very impressive as well. The golden hue indicates the presence of a notable proportion of older reserve wine in the blend, and the aromas are subtle but still expressive, with nice toasty notes showing atop a core of fresh, green apple fruit. The flavors and finish show true Brut dryness (a relative rarity) and a very classy, reserved character. 90 Michael Franz Dec 23, 2008

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) “Extra Cuvée de Reserve” Brut NV ($45, Wildman): Of all the non-vintage Brut Champagnes from larger houses that I've

tasted in the past couple of months, this was the best wine. It is satisfyingly rich in texture and is quite deeply flavored, yet it retains an impressive lightness and freshness thanks to near-perfect balance of acidity and sweetness and impressively fine mousse. 90 Michael Franz Dec 18, 2007

Soutiran, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Brut NV ($60, Vintage '59 Imports): I have always loved Soutiran's Champagnes, but I've never seen them looking better than the current crop of releases. The wines are all delicious, but what is most interesting is that they are so individuated--each one is very distinctive, and there's no single house style being stamped onto the different bottlings. As a case in point, this basic brut is a complex, structured wine that is much more bracing and restrained than the (somewhat, um, slutty) Blanc de Blancs (which I also loved). The yeast notes are notable but proportionate to the fruit and mineral nuances, and though the wine is still a little tight aromatically and in flavor, it is already very enjoyable. Yes, this is priced a bit above the entry level brut wines of the big houses, but it is also much more interesting than most of them, and really capable of five years of improvement if you've got good cellaring facilities. 90 Michael Franz Nov 11, 2008

Taittinger, Champagne (France) "Prestige" Rosé Brut NV ($75, Kobrand): This $75 bottling is not a vintage-dated wine. Also, though the label says 'Prestige,' there's a question as to whether if can be regarded as a true Cuvée de Prestige, since Taittinger makes a famous 'Comtes de Champagne' rosé priced fully three times higher. So, is this just another bottle of Champagne, but one with a really hefty price tag? No, it is a strikingly delicious bottling that is a serious competitor to most Cuvée de Prestige bottlings priced over $100. Gorgeous color and ample effervescence get this off to a good start, and it follows up with deep but delicate flavors with lots of complex little nuances. The texture is very lacy and intricate for a rosé, and the finish is long, fresh and symmetrical. 90 Michael Franz Jun 21, 2011

This seems less serious than the entry-level Brut NV from Taittinger, but does pink Champagne need to be serious? You get light raspberry and floral notes and an earthiness that builds with air, and there's a hint of tannin in the mouthfeel. A pretty wine, easy to enjoy.

Taittinger, Champagne (France) Brut “La Francaise” NV ($55, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Taittinger’s Brut "La Française" is one of the biggest brands from Champagne, and consequently it is prone to being overlooked in an era when boutique is chic and “grower” Champagnes have grabbed the attention of most wine writers. Be that as it may, this is still one of the most reliable choices in the entire Champagne category for those who seek freshness and refinement, and the current release lot in the USA excels on both of those counts...while also offering some "bass" notes to go with all that treble. Still quite youthful and energetic, it will actually improve for at least two or three years if left to age, but it also shows interesting complexities from older reserve wines that were built into the multi-vintage blend. The wine’s light, lemony character makes is an exceptionally refreshing aperitif Champagne, but those who taste attentively will also find some sneaky power and nuance here, and this is a great choice for delicately prepared finfish dishes.
90 Michael Franz Dec 26, 2017

Ayala, Champagne (France) Brut "Majeur" NV ($40, Cognac One): Champagne Ayala, a Grande Marque house with a great history, had

been floundering for a period of time under the absentee ownership of a Bordeaux Château. But its neighbor in the village of Aÿ, Champagne Bollinger, came to its rescue and purchased Ayala in 2005. It now has a new importer and is available in the U.S. as of this year. Ayala's Brut Majeur NV, a blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 35% Chardonnay, is made in the light-bodied, elegant style. It is quite dry (dosage, only 8.5 g/l), and is a perfect apéritif Champagne--much more so than many big-name Champagnes with much higher dosage. 89 Ed McCarthy Apr 15, 2008

Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé 2004 ($67, Maisons Marques and Domaines):

This wine isn't really pink; it's more of a light caramel color -- surprising in that it's 70% Pinot Noir and Roederer uses the saignee method. Its taste is so delicate -- light citrus with a hint of wild strawberry that at first I wondered if a blanc de noirs had been mislabeled. But there's more structure than is immediately apparent, and I was surprised when the bottle emptied faster than expected.

Perrier Jouët, Champagne (France) Grand Brut NV ($40, Pernod Ricard USA): A delicate Champagne with refined aromas and flavors that are nicely accented with subtle yeast notes. If you are in the market for a widely available, very well made bottle of bubbly that delivers the level of class that makes it worth your money to pony up for true Champagne, this is an excellent candidate. 89 Michael Franz Jun 9, 2009

Tattinger, Champagne (France) Brut “La Francaise” NV ($45, Kobrand): The current release of Tattinger’s “La Francaise” continues this house’s tradition of offering a bright, fresh, light-bodied non-vintage Champagne that is ideal for aperitif sipping. The wine has citrus and apple flavors, hints of toast or brioche in the finish, and a refreshing backbone of acidity. It probably will become a bit more complex with a couple more years of bottle age, but there is no need to wait to enjoy it. 89 Paul Lukacs Dec 29, 2009

Guyot Choppin, Champagne (France) NV ($30):

Real Champagne at 30 bucks a bottle these days makes you stop and look. One taste makes you buy a case. Fresh and delicately fruity, this lighter styled Champagne has the elegance and length you’d expect. Those looking for a toasty bigger style of Champagne will be disappointed, but others who favor the more delicate style will embrace this bargain-priced bubbly. An excellent choice as an aperitif, its vivacity will enhance simply prepared fish dishes. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2017

Nicolas Feuillatte, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($33, Pasternak Wine Imports): Champagnes come in all sorts of styles, everything from light and lively

to deep and serious. This one is very much in the former camp. It’s bright and frothy, with citrus-scented aromas and flavors, just a hint of biscuit-like yeast, and a long, clean finish. Good for partnering with light fare, it’s very much an aperitif-type sparkler, so well worth considering for holiday parties and get-togethers. Many shops offer Champagne at significant discount this time of year, and I’ve seen this wine on sale for $25.99. It pays to shop around. 88 Paul Lukacs Dec 15, 2009

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) "Rare" 1999 ($250, Remy-Cointreau): This deserves its triple-digit score because it is a perfect wine, in the sense that it is utterly flawless and so strong in all respects that I cannot imagine how adding anything could really make it any better. It is one of the three best Champagnes that I have ever tasted, along

with Krug Clos du Mesnil 1979 and Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, and only a few red wines that I've tasted (such as 1982 Cheval Blanc) can match it for intricacy, symmetry, and sheer beauty. It is really a medium-bodied wine rather than a powerhouse, yet the aromas, flavors and finish are extremely expressive and utterly compelling despite the fact that the wine isn't built for power. At this point in its development, my bottle (and it pains me to point out that Champagnes do vary from bottle to bottle) was perfectly developed, with layers of secondary aromas but also a wonderfully fresh core of primary fruit. The acidity was abundant but very ripe and perfectly tuned to the light sweetness of the fruit, and the wine's mousse was abundant but very delicate and, in terms of texture, perfectly tuned to the wine's weight and linear drive. This is a stunning achievement. 100 Michael Franz Feb 10, 2009

Moet & Chandon, Champagne AOC (France) Grand Vintage Brut 2009 ($65):

Moet's 2009 at nearly ten years of age shows uncommon freshness and richness, with notes of brioche and baked apple, a hint of citrus and outstanding length with an exquisite finish. A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
95 Robert Whitley May 29, 2018

Buena Vista, Champagne AOC (France) La Victoire Brut NV ($50, Boisset Collection):

Indeed, this is genuine Champagne made for the California winery Buena Vista. It's the pet project of Jean-Charles Boisset, owner of Buena Visita and scion of Burgundy's Boisset wine family. It's a beauty, exquisitely balance with impressive depth and length, a fine mousse and creamy texture, with notes of pear, brioche and roasted nuts. A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Robert Whitley May 29, 2018

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne Blanc de Blancs (France) 'Blanc des Millenaires' 1995 ($170):

The vintage of 1995 was exceptional in Champagne, yielding wines of uncommon richness and depth. The excitement was fleeting, however, as the 1996 vintage unfolded. This was a breathtaking year in Champagne, and it quickly overshadowed the glorious harvest of 1995. Yet evidence of the greatness of '95 persists. At the Champagne house of Charles Heidsieck, in fact, 1995 is most likely remembered as the vintage of the century, for it was in that year that the extraordinary 1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires Blanc de Blancs was produced. This is perhaps the finest Champagne I've ever tasted, rivaled only by the 1964 Dom Perignon. The '95 Blanc des Millenaires was a surprise entry in the 2012 Sommelier Challenge, where it was overwhelmingly voted Wine of the Year. Years earlier this same wine had been the two-time Wine of the Year at the Critics Challenge. No matter the venue, there is but one inescapable conclusion: 1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires is one of the greatest Champagnes of all time. Even today, at 17 years of age, the wine remains fresh and vibrant, with lovely notes of citrus and freshly baked brioche. On the palate Blanc des Millenaires exhibits creamy richness without heft, and layers of flavor complexity. It remains firmly structured and powerful, the personification of elegance that it seems only Champagne can achieve. It is expensive, but hardly beyond reason. And for the priceless opportunity to taste one of the best Champagnes ever made, worth every penny.
100 Robert Whitley Dec 18, 2012

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne Brut (France) NV ($40):

No Champagne house has witnessed more dramatic improvement over the past decade than Piper-Heidsieck under the direction of Chef de Cave Regis Camus. Widely respected by his peers as one of the finest winemakers in the Champagne district, Camus had not only the courage but the clout to plow most of the production from good vintages into Piper's reserve stocks, which was necessary to restore Piper-Heidsieck's multi-vintage brut to the level of its past glories. In the course of doing so, Piper has become less austere without losing its signature firm structure and crisp green apple character. The new Piper-Heidsieck brut remains fresh and crunchy, but with a bit more roundness and a touch of the toasty brioche that is the result of using older reserve stocks. This is a clean, balanced beauty that's well priced for such a high quality non-vintage brut Champagne from a house that's well on its way down the comeback trail.
91 Robert Whitley Dec 11, 2012

Lilbert-Fils, Champagne Grand Cru (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($51, Vintage '59 Imports): If there is a producer in Champagne making more impeccably fresh, stylish Blanc de Blancs wines today, then I am unaware of it. I have loved these wines for years, and, being an admirer but also a critic by profession, have always been on guard for a bottle that would show a dip in quality. I’ve never seen one, and indeed the two bottles of Lilbert NV that I tasted during the past two weeks were among the best I’ve ever tried. The key to the excellence of Lilbert’s non-vintage wine (a

vintage-dated Grand Cru Brut is the house’s only other offering) is a precise balance between austerity and generosity, and the accent here is on the word, precise: On one hand, this is a subtle, restrained, linear, sharply focused wine rather than an in-your-face blast of fruit and yeast. On the other hand, the wine is never stingy, but rather subtly satisfying, showing a focused and persistent beam of fruit recalling green apples and ripe lemons. Faintly toasty accents and a hint of minerality lend complexity to the finish, which is exceptionally persistent and refreshing, thanks in large part to very fine mousse that is stylistically in keeping with the wine’s overall flavor profile. If I’ve made myself clear here, you’ll understand that this is not a bombastic wine and not the best choice for bowling over a novice. It sounds snotty to say so, but this is a connoisseur’s wine, a Champagne of exceptional refinement. 94 Michael Franz May 1, 2012

Bruno Paillard, Champagne Grand Cru (France) Blanc de Blancs “Réserve Privée” Brut NV ($100, Vintus):

The grapes for this bottling come exclusively from four grand cru villages in the Côte des Blancs, the area within the Champagne region known for Chardonnay. One taste explains why many people swoon over a Blanc de Blancs Champagne. Light and precise with a creamy richness, it gently massages the palate. Its Grand Cru pedigree is immediately apparent. 93 Michael Apstein May 29, 2012

Soutiran, Champagne Grand Cru (France) Rosé NV ($65, Vintage '59 Imports): Soutiran produces very expressive, full-bodied Champagnes, and this

is the richest and most fruity of the lot. Broad, soft texture magnifies the sense of richness, as do deep flavors and a relatively muted toastiness, which keeps the fruit in the forefront. These sensations seem to presage a rather chunky, obvious Champagne, but energetic acidity and persistent effervescence lift and focus the wine's finish in a way that helps it leave a balanced and sophisticated impression. Delicious on its own but also capable of standing up to serious food (including white meats), this is a must-try wine for rosé lovers. 92 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2009

Andre Jacquart, Champagne Premier Cru (France) Brut "Experience" Blanc de Blancs NV ($46):

Jacquart’s ‘Experience’ Blanc de Blancs exhibits a toasty brioche nose, followed on the palate by notes of pear and crunchy green apple. Rich and creamy, yet powerful, with a firmness at its core that is one of the hallmarks of top-notch Champagne. The finish is long and impressive. 93 Robert Whitley Nov 14, 2017

Diebolt-Vallois, Prestige Brut (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($50, Vintage '59 Imports):

This is a very stylish wine that charms on the strength of its balance and proportionality. Although the first impression is that it is on the lean and restrained side, there's a streak of generous fruit and just a little sweetness that shows up on the mid-palate. Fresh acidity counterbalances that very effectively in the finish, which is impressively persistent.

Krug, Champagne (France) 1996 ($180, Moet Hennessy USA): Rich, medium gold color. The 1996 Krug has the extraordinary combination of rich, ripe pear and lemon flavors along with fresh acidity. It is bold and assertive, very lively, with a long, complex finish. I am amazed at how good it is even now, but of course it is already eleven years old. It should be even better in ten years, as its flavors integrate and mature. All Krug Champagnes seem to age forever; the 1996 should still be fine in 50 years. 99 Ed McCarthy Apr 10, 2007

Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) "Cristal" 1996 ($185, Maisons, Marques & Domaines): Champagne doesn't get much better than Cristal; in the great vintages, it has no peer. Louis Roederer has been making Cristal as a dry prestige cuvée only since the end of World War II, but since then, this house has made some of the world's greatest Champagnes. In addition, the Cristal Rosé, along with Krug's, is the paragon for this category. The greatest wine of any type that I have consumed during the past two years was the 1985 Cristal, a 100-point Champagne, which I enjoyed last Thanksgiving. The 1996 Cristal is almost as good, even now, in its infancy; 55 percent Pinot Noir and 45 percent Chardonnay, the '96 Cristal stood out like a beacon at a recent Champagne luncheon of prestige cuvees. Its intense, honeyed flavors penetrate the palate and are backed with piercing acidity. I strongly recommend that you do not drink the '96 Cristal for another ten years; it will need that much time to mature. The '82 Cristal, along with the '85, is perfect now. 99 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Moët & Chandon, Champagne (France) "Cuvée Dom Pérignon" 1996 ($145, Moët-Hennessy USA): Richard Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon's brilliant winemaker, has hit a home run with the '96 Dom; it's as good if not better than his other masterpiece, the '90 DP. Moët's flagship Champagne, 50 percent Pinot Noir and 50 percent Chardonnay-the biggest-selling prestige cuvée in the U.S. and in the world-is sometimes maligned by tasters who don't understand that complex Champagnes, like great Bordeaux or Barolo, must be given time-a minimum of 10 to 15 years-to develop and mature (the '90 Dom is drinking beautifully now). I've tasted the '96 Dom three times, and it's a powerhouse; intense, rich, and concentrated, with great acidity but also very harmonious, with excellent balance between fruit and acidity, and exceptional length. It should peak in five or six years, but will have 40 years of good drinking. (Advance word is that the '98 Dom is also awesome). 98 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Moët & Chandon, Champagne (France) Dom Pérignon Brut 1996 ($140, Moët Hennessy USA): The 1996 DP is atypical for Dom Pérignon in that it very powerful, intense, and concentrated, and has greater acidity than usual, because of the nature of the vintage. In a previous column in Wine Review Online, I have gone on record stating that 1996 is one of the great all-time Champagne vintages. Although winemaker Richard Geoffroy agrees that there are some great 1996s, including this one, he cautions that not all 1996s will be great, because the over-ripeness of the Pinot Noir grapes that year will cause early oxidation. I do believe that the 1996 DP has 40 years or more of life, if stored properly. Right now, the 1996 Dom is rather closed, and I rate it 95 at this time, but with the potential to deserve 98. 98 Ed McCarthy Jul 25, 2006

Philipponnat, Champagne (France) Clos des Goisses 1996 ($120, ExCellars): When my WRO colleague Michael Apstein gave this wine 97 points, I wondered whether his enthusiasm had gotten the better of him.

Nevertheless, I had sufficient trust in his palate, this terrific producer and vineyard, and in the phenomenal 1996 vintage to buy a couple of bottles. Turns out Apstein was being stingy. Although this wine is still just a baby (and indeed it was only released for sale within the past six months…at more than 10 years of age!), it already shows marvelous complexities that will unwind into genuine magnificence over the next 15 years. The youthful forcefulness of the acidity in this wine must be experienced to be believed; it will assure that the wine will remain fresh if well stored for two more decades. 98 Michael Franz Jun 12, 2007

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) "Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill" 1996 ($180, Frederick Wildman): Pol Roger is one of the most consistently reliable houses in Champagne: Its non-vintage Brut is one of the best, and well-priced; its Blanc de Blancs is always superb; and its Prestige Cuvée, Sir Winston Churchill, lives up to its namesake -- powerful, long-lived, and complex. The '96 Sir Winston bowled me over with its class and power. Mainly Pinot Noir, this is a Champagne that will live 50 years or more. One of the great Champagnes around today. 98 Ed McCarthy Oct 9, 2007

Gosset, Champagne (France) "Célébris" 1996 ($100, Palm Bay): I love Célébris, Gosset's prestige cuvée! Normally, I drink prestige cuvees with dinner because they are typically full-bodied and rich, but the Célébris, with 65 percent Chardonnay (and 35 percent Pinot Noir, all Grand Cru grapes) is so elegant and ethereal that it works really well as an aperitif. Gosset Champagnes do not go through malolactic fermentation, enhancing their lively acidity. When I first tasted the delicious 1996-with its aromas and flavors of mango, apricot, and lemon-over lunch a month ago, our party of three consumed it so quickly that we had to order a second bottle. Flavors really linger on the palate. Try it with seafood or grilled fish. It was just released, but with limited production in 1996, it should be gone by the end of the year. 97 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Krug, Champagne (France) Brut "Clos de Mesnil" 1995 ($825, Moet Hennessy USA): This is described as the 'granddaddy' of the Krug line by a representative of its importing company, but that's an

understatement. Krug, one of the few Champagne houses that still ferments its still wine in oak barrels, makes an extraordinary line of Champagne. Their Clos de Mesnil, first produced in 1978, comes exclusively from Chardonnay grapes grown in the vineyard of the same name located on the Côte des Blancs. It is an anomaly in Champagne, both for its exquisite elegance and balance, and because, as a monovarietal from a single vineyard, it contradicts the Champenoise tradition and philosophy that blending makes a superior wine. This shows lovely intensity, without a trace of heaviness, its creaminess is balanced by vibrant acidity. The finish goes on forever. The paradox is how something so light can be so intense. As with the other 1995 Champagnes, it is beautiful now, but based on my experience with other vintages of Clos de Mesnil, it will evolve beautifully for at least another decade. 97 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2007

Philipponnat, Champagne (France) "Clos des Goisses" Brut 1996 ($120, Ex-Cellars): Although Philipponnat's Clos des Goisses is from a single vineyard, the vineyard's exposure is varied, which allows blending of wines from different plots to achieve an extraordinary balance of power, elegance and freshness. The vineyard, almost 14 acres planted roughly two-thirds to Pinot Noir and one-third to Chardonnay, comprises a steep due-south-facing slope where grapes achieve full ripeness, and an east-facing portion where grapes become less ripe but have higher acidity. The 1996 is an extraordinary accomplishment -- from one of Champagne's great vintages -- that combines layers of intensity and finesse with length. Even at 10 years of age, it's a baby that needs another five to ten years to unfold and evolve. But it will be worth the wait. 97 Michael Apstein Dec 26, 2006

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) "Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill" 1996 ($145, Frederick Wildman and Sons): Pol Roger finally released its 1996 Sir Winston Churchill this summer, and it has been worth the wait. The Sir Winston Churchill, Pol Roger's prestige cuvée, is typically a powerful, Pinot Noir-dominated Champagne known for its longevity, but then longevity is a trademark of all Pol Roger Champagnes. The '96 Sir Winston is Christian Pol-Roger's swan song, as he is retiring from day-to-day involvement in the firm. What a great Champagne to leave as a remembrance! It is powerful, rich, and firm, very harmonious, with lots of flavor intensity, and yet with finesse and control. The amazing thing is that you can enjoy the '96 Sir Winston even now, but perhaps not so amazing as it's already 10 years old. Be assured that the '96 will become even better with maturity, and should be one of the all-time great Pol Rogers. 97 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut "Grande Annee" 1997 ($110, Paterno):

Bollinger has produced one of the stars of the vintage with its classic 1997 Grande Année. This is a good vintage in Champagne, ready to drink now, but perhaps without the power, complexity, and longevity of the superb 1996 vintage. Bollinger is such an outstanding Champagne house, however, that it manages to make a great Grande Année in most vintages. The 1997 Grande Année is rich and toasty, very dry, as always, and powerful, with superb concentration and length. At a recent luncheon which featured 12 vintage Champagnes, the 1997 Bollinger was my clear favorite. Loved it! 96 Ed McCarthy Dec 26, 2006

Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut "Cuvée William Deutz" 1996 ($120, Maisons, Marques & Domaines): Deutz is one of my favorite Champagne houses, but remains relatively unknown in the U.S. Cuvée William Deutz, its prestige cuvée, is magnificent in 1996! It is rich, firm, and powerful, with great acidity and concentrated red fruit flavors. It is comprised of about two-thirds Pinot Noir, with a touch of Pinot Meunier and 30 percent Chardonnay. It should be perfect in ten years. 96 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Dom Pérignon, Champagne (France) 1999 ($130, Moet Hennessy USA): The 1999 Dom Pérignon is now available in the U.S., and it is brilliant, continuing a current hot streak for DP, beginning with the rich 1995, the superb, other-worldly 1996, and the exquisite, delicately balanced 1998. As Dom Pérignon winemaker Richard Geoffroy says, the 1999 has a 'faux gentility,' in that it seems to be precocious and almost ready to drink at first. But further aeration in a wide tulip glass reveals a core of minerality and a perfect balance of fruit and acidity. It is very elegant, complexly flavored, with absolutely no rough edges and a wonderful texture. A great match with caviar, seafood, and delicate fish entrées. DP is always an almost even blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from mainly Grand Cru vineyards. It will be at its best in ten years or so, but it is delicious even now. 96 Ed McCarthy Dec 25, 2007

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut "Grand Siècle La Cuvée" NV ($85, Laurent-Perrier USA): Do not let the lack of a vintage date deter you from enjoying this fabulous tête de cuvée Champagne. Laurent-Perrier's tradition is to blend their best wines exclusively from grand cru villages from the last three vintages to fashion this luxurious bottling. The deliciously creamy elegance of Chardonnay--50% of the blend--marries perfectly with the power of Pinot Noir to make an elegant, classy Champagne. 96 Michael Apstein Oct 25, 2005

Moët & Chandon, Champagne (France) Dom Pérignon Brut 1995 ($140, Moët Hennessy USA): The 1995 Dom Pérignon, another great vintage, is broader and even more powerful than the 1996 DP at this moment. It is very rich in flavor, very Pinot Noir, and undoubtedly will last for many decades. It should be at its peak in another ten years or so. A current controversy in Champagne revolves around which is the better vintage, 1995 or 1996. Dom Pérignon's Richard Geoffroy favors the 1995; I do agree that the '95 DP is tasting better than the '96 at this moment, but I believe that the '96 DP will be the better vintage in the long run 96 Ed McCarthy Jul 25, 2006

Moët & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut Dom Pérignon 1996 ($140, Moët-Hennessy USA): The 1996 DP is atypical for Dom Pérignon in that it is very powerful, intense, and concentrated, and has greater acidity than usual, because of the nature of the vintage. Made with 50 percent Chardonnay and 50 percent Pinot Noir from almost entirely grand Cru grapes, the '96 is so concentrated and with such high acidity that it is not a favorite of winemaker Richard Geoffroy, who prefers the more balanced, harmonious '98 Dom Pérignon. I'll take the '96, but I wouldn't touch it for another ten years; it will need that much time to integrate and show its best. The 1996 DP has 40 years or more of life ahead of it, and requires patience if it is to be consumed at its peak. Meanwhile, the '90 DP is at its best right now. 96 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Salon, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs 1996 ($240, Wilson-Daniels): Managing Director Didier DePond is very excited about the '96 Salon. At Salon, they believe that the 1996 has at least 50 years of life ahead of it; they compare it to their 1928. Right now it is very tight and powerful, with a depth of acidity that makes it difficult to penetrate. Its aromas suggest green apples, along with mushrooms and a distinct nuttiness. It has a wonderful texture and a delicacy of flavors despite its apparent core of concentrated power. It will probably need another 15 to 20 years of aging before it reaches its plateau of greatness-but knowing Salon's track record, I'm sure it will get there. 96 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Taittinger, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs "Comtes de Champagne" 1996 ($125, Kobrand): Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne sets the standard for blanc de blancs Champagne, along with Salon and Krug Clos du Mesnil. The '96 Comtes, a thoroughbred with great structure, finesse, and concentration, is powerful, very fresh, and tastes especially young. It exudes class, which is what you would expect from this prestige cuvée, clearly Taittinger's flagship. It could use another eight to ten years to fully mature, but will drink well up to 30 years. In short supply; you'll have to search for it. 96 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Taittinger, Champagne (France) "Comtes de Champagne" Blanc de Blancs 1996 ($140, Kobrand): Taittinger, along with Salon and Krug, sets the standard for blanc de blancs Champagne. The 1996 I tasted was in magnum (the retail price above is for a 750 ml bottle). The '96 Comtes is a thoroughbred, with great structure, finesse, and concentration; it is powerful and very fresh, tasting especially young in the magnum. It exudes class, what you would expect from this prestige cuvée, clearly Taittinger's flagship. It might need another ten years to fully mature, but will drink well for up to 30 years. 96 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) "La Grande Dame" 1996 ($140, Moët-Hennessy USA): Veuve Clicquot, the second-largest Champagne house after Moët & Chandon, really shines with its Gold Label Vintage Brut and its La Grande Dame (the latter also made as a rosé). Always known for its full-bodied, Pinot Noir-dominated Champagnes, Veuve continues in this tradition with the '96 Dame. This prestige cuvée is 65 percent Pinot Noir, 7 percent Pinot Meunier, and 28 percent Chardonnay. The '96, the best Dame since the magnificent '88, is rich, broad-shouldered, toasty, and nutty, with excellent concentration of fruit and great length. It needs another eight years, and should develop into one of the great La Grande Dames. 96 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut "La Grande Dame" 1996 ($120, Moët-Hennessy USA): Veuve Clicquot has hit a home run with its '96 La Grande Dame, its best since the magnificent '88 Dame. Always known for its full-bodied, Pinot Noir-dominated Champagnes, Veuve continues this tradition with the '96 Dame. Its prestige cuvée, the Dame, is 65% Pinot Noir, 7% Pinot Meunier, and 28% Chardonnay, and is rich, broad-shouldered, toasty, and nutty, with excellent concentration of fruit and great length. It could use another six to eight years of aging, and will become one of the great La Grande Dames. 96 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut "Grande Annee" 1996 ($100, Paterno Imports): The combination of Bollinger and 1996 has produced what you would expect: the '96 Grande Année, 70 percent Pinot Noir and 30 percent Chardonnay, is a blockbuster; it is rich, powerful and biscuity, with excellent acidity; it begs for another five or six years of aging before it really shows its stuff. Bollinger is always one of the most full-bodied, Pinot-dominated Champagnes, and is dry enough to make a perfect companion with main course entrées, such as veal or chicken. 95 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs "Blanc des Millénairres" 1995 ($95, Remy Amerique): This is a bit more masculine than most Blanc de Blancs wines but still very charming, with deep, muscular flavors, great depth, and impressive length. It shows wonderful complexity and great drive, but with remarkable elegance and balance. Mature and developed but still vibrant and certainly not played out, this is a totally convincing and obviously great wine. 95 Michael Franz Dec 26, 2006

Duval-Leroy, Champagne (France) Brut 1996 ($50, Partner's Wine Marketing): Most vintage Champagnes from this monumental year have disappeared from retailers' shelves, but happily Duval-Leroy just released theirs. Disgorged in October 2004 after 7 years on the lees, it has gorgeous toasty/yeasty qualities, the creamy elegance of Chardonnay and a seemingly endless finish. With some non-vintage offerings now going for more than $50 a bottle, this Champagne will not last long. Stock up for the holidays early. This Champagne is not to be missed. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 25, 2005

Gosset, Champagne (France) "Grand Millésimé" Brut 1996 ($80, Palm Bay Imports): Gosset, a small house purchased by Renaud-Cointreau in 1994, is my candidate for the most underrated Champagne house; its bubblies, from its NV Grand Réserve Brut to its ethereal prestige cuvée, Célébris, are among the Champagnes I personally consume and serve the most. The 1996 Grand Millésimé, 62 percent Chardonnay and 38 percent Pinot Noir, is classic Gosset in style: rich, powerful, very concentrated, dry, fresh, with great structure and length; this full-bodied beauty, with hints of nutmeg and cumin aromas, will be at its best in two or three years, but should age well for ten more years. 95 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Joseph Perrier, Champagne (France) Cuvee Royale Brut 1996 ($50): I had the good fortune to be served this wine at a New Year's Eve's Bacchanalian feast. It outperformed everything else that evening, and we sampled many superb wines. Going farther back in 2005, I can safely say that it was the finest Champagne I tried all year. What makes this treasure so special is that it manages to taste simultaneously deep and light, elegant and sumptuous, rich and refined. Held in balance by crisp but unobtrusive acidity, it embodies all the characteristics that make Champagne so delicious, and is worth a special hunt to find. 95 Paul Lukacs Jan 10, 2006

Krug, Champagne (France) Brut 1995 ($250, Moet Hennessy USA): Krug ages their vintage Champagne and waits to release it until they feel it is ready to drink. Hence, the 1995 is their current release. (They released their awesome 1990 vintage Champagne only a few years ago). A bit forward, it is opulent with hints of toastiness. A lively citric finish completes their signature combination of freshness and maturity. The lengthy, elegant finish reminds you why Krug is different from all other Champagne. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

Louis de Sacy, Champagne (France) Brut "Cuvée Grand Soir" 1996 ($100): Louis de Sacy, a small, family-owned house located in the village of Verzy in the Montagne de Reims, is run by the charming Alain Sacy and his wife, Isabelle. The winery overlooks their vineyards in Verzy. The Louis de Sacy vintage brut, Cuvée Grand Soir, is composed of 60% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier, and 30% Chardonnay. The 1999 is the current vintage, but you can still find the '96 on restaurant lists. The '96 Grand Soir is wonderful, firm, very young, and powerful, with lots of acidity. Pinot flavors dominate this robust, toasty Champagne. Enjoy it now, or hold on to it; it will live for many years. 95 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Brut "Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill" 1995 ($140, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Pol Roger's prestige cuvee, Sir Winston Churchill, was tasted in magnum. This is always a very powerful Champagne, made predominantly from Pinot Noir. The 1995 vintage, however, is ripe and lush, and even the normally austere Sir Winston Churchill is enjoyable now, yes, even in magnum. The 1995 Winston is firm, solid, round, and smooth. In one word, delicious! 95 Ed McCarthy Jan 3, 2006

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut "Rare Vintage" 1988 ($100, Moet Hennessy USA): This has to be the Champagne deal of decade. Veuve Clicquot, like many Champagne houses, opted to re-release older vintages into the market so customers can discover the glorious taste of mature Champagne. Aged on the lees--the dead yeast--for almost a decade and then aged for an equal time in the bottle, this wine delivers a complex array of nutty, toasty and yeasty flavors balanced beautifully by an uplifting freshness--acidity imparted by the bubbles. Treat yourself and in the process discover the delight of mature Champagne. 95 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2007

Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut "Grande Année" 1997 ($110, Paterno): Bollinger's vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006

Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 1997 ($74, Wilson Daniels, Ltd.): I suppose it is no surprise that Delamotte, a house located in Mesnil (perhaps the single best village in the Cotes des Blanc, the area of Champagne where Chardonnay reigns supreme) should make a stellar Blanc de Blancs. It doesn't hurt that it is adjacent to Salon--both are owned by Laurent-Perrier--and uses Salon's grapes when that house opts not to produce a vintage Champagne. Delamotte's creamy and elegant 1997 has a suaveness, imparted only by Chardonnay, that seems to go on forever. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006

Jacquesson, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Avize Blanc de Blancs 1996 ($70, SDG Selections): Jacquesson is a small, traditional house with strong holdings in the Grand Cru vineyard of Avize on the Côte des Blancs. The style of the house emphasizes dryness and elegance. Jacquesson has always been one of the premium producers of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. The '96, made entirely from Avize-grown grapes, is crisp and lively, with extraordinary concentration of citrus fruit flavors, and lots of depth. It should live for decades. 94 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 1999 ($77, Vintage '59 Imports): This house makes stunning Champagnes from high-class Chardonnay sourced from Grand Cru vineyards located

predominantly in the famous village of Cramant. The non-vintage bottling is always very dry and elegant, with a lean, linear profile that marks it as a serious wine for Champagne connoisseurs. It is a steal at $47. This vintage-dated bottling from 1999 offers notably greater concentration and depth of fruit, with a richer, softer texture, yet it retains the same stylistic profile of lean, restrained elegance. Complex aromas and flavors of brioche, toasted nuts, lemon curd and fresh mushrooms are marvelously interesting. 94 Michael Franz Feb 20, 2007

Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs 1999 ($65, Vintage '59 Imports): Lilbert's 1999 Vintage Blanc de Blancs, made from 100 percent Cramant grand cru grapes, is rich and powerful, as grand cru blanc des blancs Champagnes often are, and yet retains the elegant style of this fine grower/producer. It has started to take on a toasty, mushroomy character. Just lovely to drink right now. 94 Ed McCarthy May 9, 2006

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) Brut "Cuvee Dom Perignon" 1998 ($140, Moet Hennessy USA): Richard Geoffroy, the brilliant cellarmaster of Moët's Dom Pérignon, truly loves the 1998 DP, and considers it one of his very best productions. I can understand his affection for the 1998 Dom, because it seduces you immediately, unlike Dom Pérignon in classic vintages such as 1996, which is not nearly ready to drink. The 1998 is very well-balanced, with good depth, and will last for at least another decade, although you definitely can drink it now. Perhaps not as great as the 1990 and 1996 DPs, but the 1998 is an excellent prestige cuvee, worthy of its pedigree. 94 Ed McCarthy Jan 3, 2006

Moët & Chandon, Champagne (France) Dom Pérignon Brut 1998 ($140, Moët Hennessy USA): The 1998 Dom is the current vintage available, and it is a beauty: creamy, gentle, all finesse and elegance. It is perfectly balanced and harmonious, which makes it enjoyable to drink even now, which at eight years old is truly young for this great cuvée. Cellar master Richard Geoffroy loves the 1998, and I can understand why, because it has no rough edges. I don't personally believe that the 1998 will be one of the all-time great Dom Pérignons, but it will age very well, I am sure. (We also tasted the 1998 in magnum, at dinner, and it had even more energy and liveliness; from the magnum, I would have rated the 1998 two points higher). 94 Ed McCarthy Jul 25, 2006

Nicolas Feuillate, Champagne (France) "Palmes d'Or" 1996 ($120, Pasternak Imports): The 1996 Palmes d'Or is the greatest Nicolas Feuillate Champagne that I've ever tasted. In the past, Nicolas Feuillate's prestige cuvée has not always lived up to its reputation, but the '96, 50 percent Chardonnay and 50 percent Pinot Noir, combines elegance and richness, with toasty, mushroomy, spicy aromas and a hint of lemon rind; ready to drink now, but will improve with two or three more years of aging. (The 1997 Palmes d'Or Rosé, by the way, is absolutely delicious, and is Feuillate's best rosé ever). 94 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Perrier-Jouët, Champagne (France) "Fleur de Champagne" 1996 ($140, Allied Domecq): Perrier-Jouët's top Champagne, in the popular "flower bottle," is the second-largest selling prestige cuvée in the U.S. The 1996-50 percent Chardonnay, 45 percent Pinot Noir, and 5 percent Pinot Meunier, is richer than most Fleur de Champagnes, but with excellent acidity. It has the classic PJ elegant style, thanks to its old-vine Chardonnay grapes; mushrooms predominate in the flavor. A classy Champagne that can be consumed now, but will be better in four or five years. By the way, Perrier-Jouët's newest member of the Fleur de Champagne family, the Blanc de Blancs in the clear bottle, might be PJ's best Champagne yet. 94 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Perrier-Jouët, Champagne (France) Brut "Fleur de Champagne" 1996 ($115, Pernod Ricard): The popular 'flower bottle' is the second largest selling prestige cuvée in the U.S. The 1996 comprised of 50% Chardnnay, 45% Pinot Noir, and 5% Pinot Meunier, is richer than most Fleur de Champagnes, but with excellent acidity. Perrier-Jouët always exhibits a classic, elegant style, thanks to its old-vine Chardonnay grapes. Mushrooms predominate in the flavor. It's a refined Champagne that can be enjoyed now, but will be even better in four or five years. (Perrier-Jouët's newest member of the Fleur de Champagne family, the Blanc de Blancs in a clear bottle, might be PJ's best Champagne yet; the '96 Blanc de Blancs is available, but hard to find). 94 Ed McCarthy Aug 22, 2006

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Brut Rose 1998 ($92, Frederick Wildman): This is a Champagne that can be served with many meat main courses, particularly game fowl, roast pork and veal loin. The Champenoise use better rose Champagnes in the same manner most foodies would use red wine, pairing it with strong flavors. Pol Roger's '98 Brut Rose has the power and firm structure to stand up to the test, but retains all of the freshness, elegance and finesse for which this outstanding house in Epernay is famed. 94 Robert Whitley Sep 19, 2006

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Brut 1998 ($83, Frederick Wildman):

The dollar's weakness against the euro has made life difficult for Champagne enthusiasts. The silver lining is the quality of recent vintages, which were very good to exceptional through much of the 1990s. At the highest levels no producer was more consistent than Pol Roger, the Epernay house renowned for its stylish cuvees. The elegant house style comes through in the 1998, a powerful Pinot Noir-based blend (60 percent) that combines the depth, power and complex aromas of Pinot with the delicate aromas and floral nuances of Chardonnay. This is a wine with exceptional finesse, showing length on the palate and a long, lingering, clean finish. 94 Robert Whitley Mar 6, 2007

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Blanc de Chardonnay 1996 ($75, Frederick Wildman and Sons): Pol Roger is the other great underrated Champagne house. Its Blanc de Blancs is invariably one of the finest Champagnes in its category; the '88 and '90 Pol Roger Blanc de Chardonnays, for example, are both sublime. Moreover, Pol Roger Champagnes always have fantastic longevity. The '96 is fresh and youthful, with lemony undertones and lots of finesse; at this point, it's not quite as great as the '88 and '90 Blanc de Chardonnays, but it does need about three more years to develop. 94 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($40, Remy Cointreau USA): This ultra-premium Champagne house has been on a roll of late, but one needn't have deep pockets to enjoy the impressive work of the Chef de Cave. Charles Heidsieck's Brut Reserve is the finest the Champagne region has to offer in the non-vintage brut category (excepting the non-vintage or multi-vintage tetes de cuvee wines produced by the likes of Krug). This is a big wine for a Champagne, with power on the palate, remarkable depth and exceptional length in the mouth. 93 Robert Whitley Dec 26, 2006

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut "Cuvee Champagne Charlie" 1985 ($110, Remy Cointreau USA): It is not often that a mature Champagne is available for sale, but Champagne Charles Heidsieck has released a supply of its 1985 prestige cuvee, Champagne Charlie, to the U.S. market, and at a very reasonable price! This is also an opportunity to taste a little history, because Champagne Charlie is no longer produced. Charles Heidsiecks new prestige cuvee, Blanc des Millénaires, is a great Champagne, but completely different in style. Blanc des Millénaires is an elegant, sleek blanc de blancs, whereas Champagne Charlie, named after the founder, is rich and powerful. The 1985 Champagne Charlie is very toasty, rich, and mushroomy, and completely ready to drink. We enjoyed it with braised veal cheeks. 93 Ed McCarthy Jan 3, 2006

Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs 1998 ($80, Maisons Marques and Domaines): This house has been on a tear lately, and this bottling is certainly in line with the string of recent successes. The gorgeous golden color

is a treat in its own right, and things only get better from there. Aromas include a classic brioche note along with scents of honey, lemon and tart apple. The flavors show full ripeness but also very fresh acidity, and the mousse is still fresh and vigorous as in a young wine but soft and fine in texture as befits a mature one. The finish tails off for at least 30 seconds, confirming that this is, pure and simple, a great wine. 93 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2007

Gosset, Champagne (France) Grande Reserve Brut NV ($55, Palm Bay Imports): Gosset makes two NV Champagnes; although its Brut Excellence sells for $15 to $20 less than its Grande Réserve, the latter is so fine that it merits the extra cost. The Grande Réserve, made from half Grand Cru and half Premier Cru grapes (46 percent Chardonnay, 38 percent Pinot Noir, 16 percent Pinot Meunier), really is on a level with expensive prestige cuvée Champagnes. It is dry, full-bodied, complex and intensely flavored. This powerhouse, which ages for five years before it is released from the winery, does not go through malolactic fermentation, which adds to its acidity and its excellent longevity. Definitely a Champagne to have with dinner. 93 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Krug, Champagne (France) "Grande Cuvee" NV ($120, Moet Hennessy USA): Krug does not make a 'basic' Champagne; even its multi-year blend

(the Krug family do not call it non-vintage) is a Prestige Cuveé, in taste and structure as well as in price. I love the winey style of the Grande Cuvée, which is always aged for six years before it is released, and is made from 50% reserve wines from many older vintages. The blend varies every year, but it is usually about 50 to 55% Pinot Noir, 15 to 20% Pinot Meunier, and 25 to 35% Chardonnay. It is full-bodied and dry, and takes on honeyed, nutty flavors with age. The Grande Cuvée ages well for 10 years or more after it is released. 93 Ed McCarthy Dec 25, 2007

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut "Cuvée Rare" NV ($120, Remy Amerique): Very expressive, mature aromas get this wine off to a great start, with scents of brioche and grilled nuts. The texture is creamy and luxurious, with a soft, rounded feel and impressive length. Superb blending of components enables this to show both softness and focus, with a very long but very clean finish brightened by lots of ripe acidity. This is the finest wine I've tasted from Piper in years. 93 Michael Franz May 30, 2006

Taittinger, Champagne (France) "Prelude" NV ($70, Kobrand): Introduced a few harvests back, Prelude is the Taittinger Champagne house's answer to the swelling ranks of Champagne growers making and bottling their own wines rather than selling their grapes to the top producers, as has been the custom. Many of these new grower/producers own vineyards that are 100 grand cru rated. Prelude is a multi-vintage blend made from Chardonnay grown in the grand cru villages of Avize and Le Mesnil sur Oger in the Cotes des Blancs and Pinot Noir grown in the grand cru villages of Bouzy and Ambonnay in the Montagne de Reims. This is a boldly structured, powerful Champagne that is on a par with most tetes de cuvee, though the aging process is considerably shorter. 93 Robert Whitley Sep 19, 2006

Bollinger, Champagne (France) "Special Cuvee" Brut NV ($48, Paterno Imports): Bollinger produces one of the driest, most full-bodied NV Champagnes available. It is complex in flavor and biscuity, with a touch of honey and bready yeast. The Special Cuvée is dominated by 75 percent black grapes (60 percent Pinot Noir, 15 percent Pinot Meunier) with 25 percent Chardonnay. It is capable of aging for several years, and becomes more toasty with age. The perfect main course dinner Champagne. One of the most consistently reliable NV Champagnes, and always one of my favorites. 92 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($45, Remy Cointreau USA): The renaissance at Charles and Piper-Heidsieck began with the hiring of the late, brilliant Daniel Thibault as cellarmaster, and is continuing with his successor, Régis Camus. No other house has improved so dramatically in the last 20 years as Charles Heidsieck, from a mediocre under-achiever to one of the finest houses in Champagne. The Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve, like all of the Champagnes in this line, is masterful. Composed of 75 percent Pinot Noir/Meunier and 25 percent Chardonnay, its secret lies in the fact that it contains about 40 percent older reserve wines from eight different vintages. Krug does the same thing, but it costs more than twice as much! The Brut Réserve is richly flavored, nutty, dry, and biscuity. You clearly can taste the older wines in the blend of this powerful Champagne. Definitely worth the price. 92 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) 1998 ($70, Wildman):

Fuller and more forward than the 1996 Pol Roger--which still could use a few more years of bottle age--the 1998 is very appealing now. It's suave and charming despite its considerable power derived in part, no doubt, from the predominance of Pinot Noir in the blend. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2007

Ruinart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($69, Moet Hennessy USA): Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house in the world and dating from

1729, is making a welcome reappearance on these shores. The Chardonnay grapes for this Blanc de Blancs come exclusively from premier cru villages. A small amount of the Chardonnay comes from the Montagne de Reims, an area traditionally known for Pinot Noir, not Chardonnay. As a result, Ruinart's Blanc to Blancs has a very appealing power (not usually associated with this style of Champagne) to complement the inherent elegance of Chardonnay. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007

Taittinger, Champagne (France) "Prelude" Brut Grand Crus NV ($70, Kobrand): Only Grand Cru vineyards from the Cote des Blancs and Montagne de Reims were sourced for this textured Champagne. A hint of bread yeast lends layered complexity to the floral and fresh citrus aromas and flavors. There is an elusive exotic spice in this bubbly and the finish is long and lingering. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 7, 2006

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut "La Grande Dame" 1998 ($165, Moet Hennessy USA): More forward than the fabulous 1996 Grande Dame, this is one of the rare times I would recommend drinking Grande Dame upon release, instead of cellaring it for a few years. Its opulence and softer-than-usual profile makes it ideal for enjoying now. It still combines the hallmark power and grace that always characterizes Veuve Clicquot's prestige bottling. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 25, 2007

Deutz, Champagne (France) 1996 ($60, Maisons, Marques & Domaines): Rich, firm and concentrated, with great acidity, this can be consumed now, but should improve for four or five years. It is 60 percent Pinot Noir, 10 percent Pinot Meunier, 30 percent Chardonnay. (This fine house's two prestige cuvées, the Cuvée William Deutz and Cuvée William Deutz Rosé, both super-stars, are also soon available as 1996s, and should be sublime). 91 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Duval-Leroy, Champagne (France) Blanc de Chardonnay 1996 ($39, Bayfield Importing): This huge, privately-owned house, run by another of the famed Champagne widows, Carol Duval-Leroy, is making some of the greatest value Champagnes today. The Duval-Leroy '96 Blanc de Blancs is probably the single finest buy you can find among the 1996s. Duval-Leroy's house style is normally light and elegant, and the '96 Blanc de Chardonnay (as they call it), fits the style exquisitely; it is lively, with a fine, persistent mousse, has very lemony, spicy aromas and flavors, a creamy texture, and the richness of the vintage. It's almost ready to drink; it should be perfect in a year or two. 91 Ed McCarthy Aug 7, 2005

Jacquesson, Champagne (France) "Cuvee 729" Brut NV ($32, SDG Selections): Jacquesson, one of the fine, smaller Champagne houses that deserves to be better known, has even gotten better in the last five years. It has always produced one of the great-value prestige cuvées (Signature Brut and Signature Brut Rosé) and now it has improved its NV Brut. Its Cuvée 729, which replaces its NV Perfection Brut, will have a new number with each new NV Cuvée (a brilliant idea) and so we will now be able to compare Jacquesson's different NV Brut releases,. Jacquesson supplies 60 percent of its grapes from its own vineyards, with especially strong holdings in the grand Cru village of Avize, on the Côte des Blancs. The Cuvée 729 embodies the Jacquesson house style; it is fairly light-bodied and elegant, with lots of finesse. Although only 35 percent Chardonnay, this variety dominates the blend. A great apéritif Champagne! Worth the search. 91 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($45, Vintage '59 Imports): This small grower/producer is in Cramant, a grand cru village in the Côte des Blancs. Lilbert's non-vintage Champagne, produced from 100 percent grand cru Chardonnay (from Cramant and other neighboring grand cru villages), is very dry, with clean, fresh lime and other citrusy aromas and flavors. Lots of elegance and finesse here. A textbook blanc de blancs Champagne. 91 Ed McCarthy May 9, 2006

Pierre Peters, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($35, Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik):

Pierre Peters is among the most highly respected grower/producers in Champagne, and this bottle will show you why. Peters makes lean, bright, linear wines from Grand Cru grapes grown in the famous commune of Le Mesmil sur Oger. This shows very subtle nuances of yeast and minerals on a core of zesty, citrus-tinged fruit. I bought two bottles of this, and though I loved the first, I'll age the second for another couple of years to bring up additional complexities, knowing that the wine won't lose its freshness. 91 Michael Franz Nov 21, 2006

Piper-Heidseick, Champagne (France) Brut Vintage 1998 ($60, Remy Amerique): This impressive wine shows real power and drive, but with complex, detailed notes and real sophistication. Still ascending, this has yet to reach its peak, but is certainly very enjoyable now. Those who can hold onto it for another couple of years before popping the cork will be handsomely rewarded. 91 Michael Franz May 30, 2006

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($36, Frederick Wildman):

If you think of non-vintage brut Champagne as a mere aperitif you've got the bar too low. The better houses deliver more bang for the buck than you might think, and no one is more reliable in that regard than the stellar Champagne house of Pol Roger in Epernay. Pol Roger utilizes an unusual blend of 33 percent Pinot Meunier, 33 percent Pinot Noir and 33 percent Chardonnay to achieve a style that offers weight and power -- perfect with grilled fowl or dense, strongly flavored fish -- yet the trademark Pol Roger elegance. The current cuvee is spot-on in that regard, and a tremendous value at less than $40. 91 Robert Whitley Dec 26, 2006

The current release of this popular non-vintage brut Champagne is the most satisfying in recent memory, delivering a rich, creamy texture, excellent power and length, notes of lemon zest and toasted brioche and, as always with Pommery, superb finesse and complexity. Though sublime as an aperitif, the Pommery brut has the stuffing to take on a key role at the dinner table.

Taittinger, Champagne (France) Brut "Prelude" NV ($70, Kobrand): A recent trend in the Champagne district is the cuvee that is produced from 100 percent grand cru vineyards. The inspiration came from the many "grower" producers who now dot the landscape, bottling bubbly under their own label rather than sell grapes to the large Champagne houses. If a grower happens to be located in a grand cru village, voila, his product is 100 percent grand cru. To compete, many of the great house have initiated their own grand cru programs. These differ from tetes de cuvee Champagnes in that they typically have fewer components in the cuvee and they are not aged as long as the most expensive prestige wines. Taittinger's entry into this arena, Prelude, is a youthful, powerful Champagne with exceptional structure and ageing potential. 91 Robert Whitley Oct 11, 2005

Bruno Paillard, Champagne (France) "Premiere Cuvee" Brut NV ($38, Bruno Paillard USA; Martin Scott Wines): Bruno Paillard's NV Brut Premiére Cuvée is the classic apéritif Champagne: it is refreshingly dry (a true Brut!), with floral aromas and clean, fresh, lemony flavors. Made from 45 percent Pinot Noir, 33 percent Chardonnay and 22 percent Pinot Meunier, it is so light and delicate that it's a delight to drink. 90 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Gaston Chiquet, Champagne (France) Brut "Tradition" NV ($30, Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik): This very pleasant Champagne from a grower/producer based in the commune of Dizy features open, expressive fruit. However, it is not overt or obvious, as nuances of toast lend complexity, and very fine but fresh mousse leaves the wine nicely balanced between energy and softness. 89 Michael Franz Nov 21, 2006

Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) "Brut Premier" NV ($42, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Louis Roederer's Brut Premier, dense and full-bodied, really defines its house style more than its stylish, complex medium-weight Cristal. Roederer's Vintage Bruts, for example, are invariably closer in style to the NV Brut Premier than to Cristal. Composed of 62 percent Pinot Noir, 8 percent Pinot Meunier and 30 percent Chardonnay, the Brut Premier is rich and medium dry, with aromas and flavors of apple and pear. 89 Ed McCarthy Dec 26, 2006

Moet & Chandon, Champagne (France) "Brut Imperial" NV ($37, Moet Hennessy USA): Moët's NV Brut Impérial is the largest-selling Champagne in the world. Considering how much is produced, I'm amazed by Impérial's quality and consistency from year to year. Made from 50 percent Pinot Noir, 40 percent Pinot Meunier and 10 percent Chardonnay, it is medium-bodied, quite toasty, with mature flavors, and is fairly dry 89 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) "Cuvee Brut" NV ($29, Remy Cointreau USA): Ten years ago, I wouldn't have even bothered to review Piper-Heidsieck's NV Cuvée Brut. Today, it is one of the better-value, quality NV Bruts that you can buy. Composed of 55 percent Pinot Noir, 30 percent Pinot Meunier and 15 percent Chardonnay, it has rather intense floral and citrusy aromas and flavors. With its fire-engine red label, Piper is fresh, lively, and easy-drinking, ideal for serving at parties and large gatherings. 89 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV ($29, Frederick Wildman & Sons): One of the great aspects of Pol Roger's NV Brut is that it really improves with two or three years of aging. All Pol Roger Champagnes age well, as I've discovered with their Vintage Bruts and Blanc de Chardonnays. Pol Roger's NV Brut, one-third each of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, is medium-bodied, toasty, and well-balanced, and is versatile enough to serve as an apéritif or with dinner. 89 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Taittinger, Champagne (France) Brut "La Francaise" NV ($35, Kobrand): This non-vintage brut, the workhorse of the Taittinger lineup, is the favored bubbly at many a Paris bistro. It seems to be everywhere. That's a tribute to its reliability, always showing the characteristic Taittinger creaminess and elegance. 89 Robert Whitley Sep 19, 2006

Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Nocturne” NV ($75, Kobrand): Although one might expect this sec Champagne to come off as

notably sweet, it really seems soft, ample and generous in flavor and texture, with fine balancing acidity that keeps the sweetness well in check. Almost creamy in feel, it is luxurious and very well made. 89 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2007

Deutz, Champagne (France) NV ($32, Maisons Marques & Domaines): In its NV Brut, Deutz uses the classic blend of 70 percent black grapes (38 percent of which is Pinot Noir) and 30 percent Chardonnay. Deutz's house style, as shown in its Brut Classic, emphasizes elegance along with fruitiness, with a touch of lemon and apple on the palate. It is medium-bodied, clean and fresh, with a creamy texture. Hard not to like. 88 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Michel Turgy, Champagne (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs Reserve Selection NV ($38): Made in the traditional style with lots of warm biscuit notes, this textured sparkler shows ample baking apple aromas and roasted nut and fruit flavors. The bubbles are pin point and the flavors are textured and balanced. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 26, 2006

Mumm, Champagne (France) "Cordon Rouge" Brut NV ($30, Pernod Ricard): There's been quite a bit of excitement lately at Mumm, with the release of its new NV Grand Cru Brut this year and its new '96 Prestige Cuvée next year. Meanwhile, its standard NV Cordon Rouge Brut has improved under the tutelage of new cellarmaster Dominique DeMarville. It is medium-bodied, fresh, with good acidity. 88 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Ruinart, Champagne (Champagne, France) Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($60, Möet Hennessy USA): Ruinart is one of six brands in the Möet-Hennessy stable of Champagne houses (the others being Möet, Dom Perignon, Veuve Cliquot, Krug and Mercier), which is in turn owned by the large and powerful LVMH Group. Yet Ruinart is run relatively autonomously, and remains relatively small at a production level of 3 million bottles per year, accounting for less than 6% of the production of the six houses. It is the only one of the six to focus on Chardonnay, releasing the only Blanc de Blancs bottlings, those being this wine and the cuvee de prestige Dom Ruinart (due to be reintroduced to the USA in the winter of '06-'07. This bottling is geared toward delicacy rather than richness, with relatively light body and subtle styling that focuses on fresh but restrained fruit and yeast. Despite these traits, it proves satisfying, and offers a lot of class for the money. 88 Michael Franz Aug 29, 2006

Taittinger, Champagne (France) "La Francais" Brut NV ($34, Kobrand): Taittinger recently introduced a new NV Brut, Prelude, made from all Grand Cru grapes (about $70). Prelude is closer in style to Taittinger's magnificent Blanc de Blancs, the medium-bodied Comtes de Champagne. Its standard NV Brut, the La Française, is light-bodied and elegant; its floral aromas and soft, fresh, delicate style make it suitable as an apéritif Champagne. 88 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) "Brut L-P" NV ($31, Laurent-Perrier, Inc. US): Although I love this large house's Grand Siècle (one of the great-value prestige cuvées), and its '96 Vintage Brut and NV Ultra Brut are very fine, I've never been a big fan of its rather light-bodied L-P NV Brut. Made from 45 percent Chardonnay, 40 percent Pinot Noir and 15 percent Pinot Meunier, I do enjoy its fresh, lemony flavors. 87 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Taittinger, Champagne (France) "Prelude" NV ($75, Kobrand): Made entirely from grands crus vineyards, this wine was introduced several years ago as a sort of 'starter level' cuvee de prestige. It is certainly tasty, and it does have the feel of a luxury cuvee on account of broad texture and a notably high level of sweetness in the finish. However, the current rendition of the wine bears the same shortcoming as previous releases, namely, a lack of structural 'cut' and definition. 86 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2007

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) "Yellow Label" Brut NV ($43, Moet Hennessy USA): The famous Yellow Label NV Brut has been so phenomenonly successful, especially in the U.S., that Veuve Clicquot is now second only to Moët & Chandon in sales throughout the world. The success has come at a price. Although Veuve Clicquot's Gold Label Vintage Brut and its prestige cuvee, La Grande Dame, are still top-notch, the full-bodied Yellow Label, 72 percent black grapes (56 percent of which is Pinot Noir) and 28 percent Chardonnay, is not so rich and concentrated as it used to be 20 years ago. It does improve with a couple of years of cellaring, which suggests that it's being released too soon, in order to satisfy market demands. 86 Ed McCarthy Dec 20, 2005

Krug, Champagne (France) 1996 ($270, Moet Hennessy USA): Combine one of the great Champagnes with one of Champagne's all-time great vintages and you have perfection. The incredible '96 Krug is already majestic, although it will evolve into another-worldly state in ten years. But who can wait when it's this good? Powerful aromas of ripe pear and honey, with floral notes. Great acidity, exceptional fruit. It fills the mouth with all sorts of complex, winey flavors, even now. When I first tasted the '96 Krug in May, 2007, I rated it "99." now I'm rating it even with the 1928 Krug. 100 Ed McCarthy Oct 9, 2007

Domaine Comte Abbatucci, Ajaccio (Corsica, France) “Cuvée Faustine” Rouge 2013 ($42, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

In A Moveable Feast, Ernest Hemingway reported, "We had a Corsican wine that had great authority and a low price. It was a very Corsican wine, and you could dilute it by half with water and still receive its message." His remark evokes the essence of Abbatucci’s Ajaccio Faustine, a 70-30 blend of Sciacarellu and Niellucciu that have grown on the granite ridgelines of the Ajacci region. This blend delivers a wealth of floral and herbal aromatics with an infectiously juicy meld of crushed raspberries, strawberries, pepper, and thyme on the palate. This pure, versatile, and energetic wine closes with a lengthy finish. I suspect this gem will be utterly enjoyable for several more years.
93 Miranda Franco Dec 21, 2021

Terra Nostra, Corse (Corsica, France) 2019 ($17, Jeff Welburn Selections):

The island of Corsica is better known for its vacation spots than its wines. It’s not surprising, however, that its definitive Mediterranean climate can yield excellent rosés like this one. The 2019 Terra Nostra Corse Rosé gives us a chance to enjoy the style of the Sciaccarellu grape. Known as Mammolo in Tuscany, where it is used as a blending partner for Sangiovese, the Sciaccarellu on its own offers a delicious combination of juicy fruit and lively spice. This vibrant rosé bursts with strawberry, red cherry and cranberry fruits enhanced by nuances of fresh flowers and coriander spice. The flavors are pure and lively, with juicy red fruits backed by subtle floral and spice tones. This is a pure, juicy and bright rosé that will offer great tasting pleasure over the next year.
91 Wayne Belding Aug 4, 2020

Domaine de Marquiliani, Vin de Corse AOC (Corsica, France) “Rosé Gris de Marquiliani” 2018 ($30, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):

Corsica is an island in the Mediterranean Sea that has been part of France since the late 1700s. Previously, it was part of Italy, which probably explains why a major grape in this wine, as well as most Coriscan red and rosé wines, is Sciaccarello, aka Mammolo, an ancient Tuscan grape variety. The Amalric family acquired the estate in ruins and restored the property, replanting vines. Daniel Amalric is credited with planting the first Syrah on the eastern coast of the island. His daughter, Anne, is now making the wines. As indicated by the word “gris,” this is a very pale wine. The grapes are “direct pressed,” meaning that the grape skins, which impart color, are separated from the juice minimizing the intensity of the wines color. This is an ethereal wine, with very pale salmon pink color. Delicate floral aromas lead to flavors of melon and peaches interwoven with fresh herbs and flowers invigorated by tangy acidity. It is well suited for an aperitif or with vegetable-based dishes as well as white meat fish.
90 Rebecca Murphy Oct 8, 2019

Don't let the name fool you. This is a French white -- 100 percent Vermentino -- from the isle of Corsica in the Mediterranean. Vermentino thrives in the Mediterranean climate, particularly when planted in the rocky soils of this mountainous island. Floral and aromatic, Clos Poggiale exhibits lovely yellow fruit and tangerine/citrus aromas, flinty minerality and exceptional balance and mouthfeel. Exceptional as an aperitif, but not too shabby as an accompaniment to grilled fish with a squeeze of fresh lemon, either.

Domaine de Papolle, Côtes de Gascogne (Gascony, France) Syrah - Merlot Rosé 2018 ($14):

The Côtes de Gascogne region in southwestern France has been home to grapes since Roman times. This modern interpretation offers pleasantly delicate hints of raspberry plus some light rose and other floral elements. Based on Syrah and Merlot, it’s a pretty pink wine that looks and tastes like a lovely spring and summer quaffer.
89 Marguerite Thomas Apr 6, 2021

Domaine de Papolle, Côtes de Gascogne (France) “Quatre C” White Wine 2018 ($15, Columbus Wine Company):

Domaine de Papolle has been known for its fine distilled spirits (it is ranked among top tier producers of the Armagnac and Bas-Armagnac regions) but it also turns out some excellent Côtes de Gascogne wines such as this very appealing blended white wine. Based on local grape varieties such as Gros Manseng, the wine also incorporates “international” varieties. The estate is now owned by father and son Bernard and Frédéric Piffard. “We want the grapes to speak for themselves,” Bernard Piffard has said. The summer-y white blend includes 60% Colombard, 20% Ugni Blanc, 10% Gros Manseng and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Try the wine and hear the grapes speak for themselves.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 29, 2021

François Lurton, Côtes de Gascogne IGP (Gascony, France) Sauvignon Blanc “Les Fumées Blanches” 2022 ($18, BGPL USA):

This is a surprisingly good wine for the price. Lurton explains that in sourcing grapes from several regions of France in a time of global warming (some vintages are bottled simply as “Vin de France”), he can emphasize those grapes from regions that have had the best harvests in terms of quality. This one has lovely, deep green flavors of kiwi and citrus without being harsh, being both smooth in weight and texture, with good finishing crispness and a long finish.
91 Roger Morris Feb 6, 2024

Renardat Fache, Bugey AOC (Jura, France) “Le Cerdon” 2020 ($30, Louis/Dressner Selections):

Sparkling wine comes in many shapes and sizes. This natural, methode ancestrale wine is a pure expression with minimal winemaker additions — no added sugar and no added yeast. I found fresh cranberry and raspberry notes with really delicious candied strawberry and red licorice undertones in the wine’s flavors. At 8% alcohol, this wine is easy going and easy drinking. I would pair this wine with charcuterie or as the first wine at a picnic on a beach.
92 Vince Simmon Apr 5, 2022

Jean Bourdy, Crémant de Jura (Côtes du Jura) NV ($22, Classic Wine Imports): This crémant stands head and shoulders above ordinary non-Champagne sparkling wine. It’s an exceedingly gratifying bubbly endowed with the elegance and pure fruit flavors that well-made sparkling wine produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes can achieve--but all too seldom does. Tiny, persistent bubbles and overall refinement make this crémant well worth seeking out. 90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 2, 2010

Domaine Andre et Mireille Tissot, Crémant du Jura (France) NV ($37, Palomar Beverage Company):

Jura is a cool climate wine region within the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in eastern France with Switzerland on its east and Burgundy on its west. This delicious Crémant (a French designation for traditional method wines not made in Champagne) is made of Demeter Certified, biodynamically farmed grapes including 60% Pinot Noir, with Jura native grapes Poulsard (20% ) and Trousseau (20%). It was disgorged in June,2021, and no dosage was added. It has a lovely dark, golden orange color with plentiful bubbles introducing juicy, ripe and round flavors of pomegranate, red cherry, and strawberry. It will be an exciting addition to your holiday events.
90 Rebecca Murphy Nov 21, 2023

Stéphane Tissot, Arbois (Jura, France) Chardonnay “Les Graviers” 2007 ($37, Classic Wine Imports): If one had to describe Stéphane Tissot’s wines with only two words I’d pick “balance” and “personality,” and Les Graviers is a beautiful example of both. The wine has ample fruit, a Burgundian toasted-bread kind of thing, and zingy acids that continuously refresh the palate. 92 Marguerite Thomas Mar 2, 2010

Stéphane Tissot, Arbois (Jura, France) Chardonnay "Les Bruyères" 2007 ($37, Classic Wine Imports): Mouth-watering aromas precede the harmonious and intricate fruit and spice flavors that distinguish this lean and elegant thoroughbred. Old vines, biodynamically farmed land, unfiltered wine, a hospitable climate for Chardonnay, an intelligent use of oak--all of these factors undoubtedly play a role in the wine’s overall deliciousness. 91 Marguerite Thomas Mar 2, 2010

Domaine Ganevat, Côtes du Jura (France) Chardonnay “Rouchamps” 2018 ($350):

Full disclosure — I have not become enamored of the wines of the Jura because of their often-oxidized style. This one could change that because it is fresh despite having undergone four years — you read that correctly — of fermentation. Harvested in the fall of 2018, Domaine Ganevat bottled it in July 2022 without any added sulfur. It is old-vine Chardonnay planted on the limestone/clay soil, which likely explains its depth, vigor, and energy. Glossy and rich, it is a perfect choice for Comté, the cheese of the region. But I would not limit your pairing possibilities just to that. It would be an equally satisfying choice with a roast chicken.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2024

Jean Bourdy, Côtes du Jura (Jura, France) Chardonnay 2005 ($25, Classic Wine Imports): Twenty-five dollars may seem a lot for a Chardonnay from an obscure region and a producer you’ve probably never heard of. But this isn’t any ordinary Chardonnay. The fruit is stunningly bright, pure and focused as well as endowed with the complexity and mellowness that a little age can give to superb Chardonnay. If you had to guess where it came from you’d likely think of fine Burgundian terroir. 92 Marguerite Thomas Mar 2, 2010

Andre and Mireille Tissot, Crémant de Jura (Jura, France) Extra Brut 1996 ($25, Thomas Calder/Potomac Selections): I heard about this wine on a tip from a friend whose palate I trust implicitly, and yet I needed to taste for myself to be sure that a 10 year-old Crémant could really be a vibrant, exciting wine. It is indeed, though I suppose that you too will need to taste if for yourself. The highlights here are very interesting aromas of green apple with nuances of toast and yeast, as well as a remarkably long, focused finish that features the extraordinary acidity that makes 1996 the most exciting European vintage for white wines in my experience. 90 Michael Franz Dec 26, 2006

Domaine de la Paturie, Pays de Franche-Comté (Jura, France) Chardonnay “Coeurs de Loups” 2019 ($35, Potomac Selections):

This Jura is anything but your mother’s Chardonnay. The wine is complex and oxidized with bruised apple, pear, almond skin, dried white flowers, and dried grapefruit peel. Coeurs de Loups translates to "wolf heart" and the winery lists wolf’s blood as one of their tasting notes on the nose. Tying the entire wine together is a rich acidity that helps elevate the fruit and provide a crisp and clean finish. Jura makes interesting wines; this one is on my revisit list.
94 Vince Simmon Jun 20, 2023

Château de Pennautier, Cabardès (Languedoc, France) 2011 ($13, Baron Francois): Cabardès, a small appellation in the Languedoc, sits where Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences meet. It’s one of the few areas in France where regulations permit grapes from both regions. Reflecting the tradition of the area, the Château de Pennautier, owned by Comte Nicolas de Longeril, one of the Languedoc’s most reliable names, is composed of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Grenache and Syrah. The ripe and fruity aspect of this medium weight wine is offset by an uplifting splash of herbs and spice. There’s enough structure to keep in interesting throughout the meal, but smooth tannins permit immediate enjoyment. Enjoy it now with grilled meats or burgers.
87 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Oriel, Cahors (France) "Falerne" 2001 ($50, Oriel Wines): Most bottlings of Cahors available here these days make one wonder whether the legend of the famous 'Black Wines of Cahors' was indeed all legend-a myth trumped up by an earlier generation of PR inflationists. Not this one. Not black but pretty impressively deep in pigment for a five year-old wine, this impresses with aromas and flavors of crushed blackberries, roasted meat, woodsmoke and road tar. Massively tannic, this demands food, and is quite likely to give you a good thumping if you don't yield to that demand. 90 Michael Franz Dec 12, 2006

Domaine Laroque, Cité de Carcassonne IGP (Languedoc, France) Pinot Noir 2019 ($14):

A Pinot Noir that is pliant and full of charm, Domaine Laroque’s 2019 vintage is appealingly earthy and fruity (look for cherries and strawberries), with a touch of spice to round things out. The wine was fermented in barriques for 30 days and aged six months in barrels. The domaine’s Pinot Noir vineyards, which are on average 25 years old, are planted around the countryside near Carcassonne, a lovely, ancient, fortified city. The name “Laroque” refers to the mysterious tall standing stones that once were found in the region’s vineyards.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 12, 2021

Domaine Laroque, Cité de Carcassonne IGP (Languedoc, France) 2011 ($11, Jean-Christophe Calvet Selection, Aquitaine Wine USA): This wine is a superb example of why it pays to listen to knowledgeable retailers or sommeliers. I had never heard of the IGP, Cité de Carcassonne, let along Domaine Laroque, an estate that specializes in Cabernet Franc, not one of the mainstay grapes of the south of France. (Indication Géographique Protégée, the new category that under EU regulations replaces Vin de Pays in France). But Bob Harkey of Harkey’s Fine Wines in Millis, Massachusetts, a suburb of Boston, insisted I try it because in his words, “It’s the best Cabernet Franc for the price.” He’s right. Cabernet Franc can have unappealing vegetal flavors if the grapes do not achieve perfect ripeness. But when they do, it can make a marvelous wine. Chateau Cheval Blanc, made mostly from Cabernet Franc, springs to mind. Now Domaine Laroque is no Cheval Blanc, but for $11 bucks, it has an unbeatable combination of ripe fruit, earthy leafy notes and plush tannins--and not a trace of vegetal flavors. Buy it by the case. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2012

La Tannerie, Cité de Carcassonne IGP (Languedoc, France) Eleven Imports 2020 ($12):

La Tannerie is a special cuvée produced at Les Vignobles Foncalieu, a large, historic growers’ cooperative that once housed a leather shop. The 2020 is a 50-50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc grown just outside the famous medieval walled city. As a wine region, Carcassonne is rarely mentioned in a footnote. However, the person behind this wine is Gabriel Reutsch, highly regarded within France for viticultural experiments leading the way to wide scale adoption of non-interventionist, organic farming. At this price, this 2020 it is an extremely pleasing red with light plum fruit and solid berry and spice flavors. Well-balanced, it finishes with light, dusty tannins and, yes, a hint of leather. It displays more Cabernet Franc personality in structure and flavors with only a hint of Merlot fruitiness.
88 Norm Roby Feb 1, 2022

Chateau d'Aussieres, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) 2009 ($31, Pasternak Wine Imports):

The history of this winery is rife with Romans, Visigoths, Franks, Arabs, monks and an emperor with vines appearing or disappearing at the whim of the moment. In its current iteration, the estate is in the very capable hands of Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). Chateau Aussieres is their top of the line cuvée of Syrah 60%, Mourvèdre 30% and Grenache 10%. It is ripe, yet as one might expect from the Lafite empire, restrained, with intense black cherry, berry, olive aromas and flavors layered with savory notes of black pepper, tobacco and smoke. In the mouth, the concentrated flavors are enlivened with vibrant acidity and burnished tannins. It’s drinking quite well now and will continue to develop in the bottle. 94 Rebecca Murphy May 28, 2013

Domaine Saint Pierre, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) 'Cuvee Celine' 2007 ($15, Margaux & Co.): Regulations for Corbières mandate that Carignan comprises no more than 50% of the blend to encourage the use of so-called improving varieties. The Cuvée Céline S, a blend of less than one-third Carignan—Syrah (40%) and Grenache account for the remainder—delivers a lovely balance of bright red and black fruit flavors and alluring spicy nuances. It has a class and finesse rarely seen in wines from this appellation. Fine tannins and good acidity give it just the right amount of structure to this moderately full-bodied wine and make it ideal for current consumption. 90 Michael Apstein May 18, 2010

Castelmaure, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) 'Grande Cuvee' 2006 ($17, Fran Kysela):

Corbières is an enormous region, covering almost 57,000 acres (23,000 hectares) in southern France’s vast Languedoc district. The appellation requires a minimum of two grapes in the blend. The 2006 Grande Cuvée uses Grenache and Syrah in a 50/50 blend that shows off plenty of plush, bright fruit and a pleasingly generous finish.

Domaine Lignères, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) Montagne d'Alaric "Piéce de Roché" 2002 ($30, Sovereign Wine Imports): A generous, satisfying red, marked by deep, dark fruit flavors and leathery, spicy undertones, this wine is fashioned from Carignane vines that are over 100 years old. It resembles a top-flight village wine from the southern Rhône valley, though displays added depth, and should be a fine partner for hearty winter meals. 89 Paul Lukacs Nov 14, 2006

Les Deux Rives, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) Corbieres Rouge 2008 ($10, Pasternak Wine Imports):

Although this wine ultimately lacks the length to earn a higher score, it is most interested and a pleasure to sip, and at the price could well be your everyday house red, especially suitable with grilled meats and hearty stews. The red and black fruit aromas are bright and juicy, the acidity firm (all the better with food) and the hint of white pepper a beguiling accent. The blend is Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Carignan. The fact that it comes in at 12.5 percent alcohol is a real plus, too, for this is the sort of wine that inspires quaffing over good food and conversation.

Castelmaure, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) Clos des Vents 2007 ($10, Kysela Peres et Fils):

Castelmaure, a cooperative, is one of the leading producers in Corbières. A typical blend for the region, Carignan (50%), Grenache (35%) and Syrah, this mid-weight red delivers floral notes and spice at an extremely attractive price. It avoids the coarseness or rusticity of many similarly priced bottlings from this area. It’s another fine choice for burgers or sausages on the grill. 88 Michael Apstein May 18, 2010

Castelmaure, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) 'Clos des Vents' 2007 ($12, Fran Kysela):

Soft, smooth and fruity, this is a wine designed for instant enjoyment. It isn’t particularly sophisticated, but nor is it coarsely rustic as inexpensive reds from this region can sometimes be. Throw some meat on the grill, open a bottle of this righteous red, then settle back to savor the evening.

Gerard Bertrand, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) 2009 ($16, USA Wine West): Like other appellations in the South of France, Corbieres, with more than 32,000 acres planted, is hoping that popular blends, like this GSM, will attract more international sales. Betrand’s Corbrieres is 80% Syrah and Grenache, with 20% Mourvedre, aged for eight months in French oak barrels. It has a very deep ruby color, dark fruit aromatics with herbal back notes, concentrated layered herbal flavors, dark chocolate, ripe berry, 13.34% alcohol and good length. I also detected low levels of Brettanomyces in the nose that carried over to the flavor. At low levels, “brett” can contribute to the flavors of a red wine. The question is what level of brett is objectionable? 87 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 18, 2012

Les Clos Perdus, Corbières (Languedoc, France) “Prioundo” 2006 ($16, K & L): There is much to love about this wine, not least of which is its dual personality. The wine’s dry, dusty character (a reflection of the parched Languedoc terroir) is juxtaposed against rich flavors and an almost silky texture. Its sweet aroma, hinting of sun-drenched roses, seems almost a contradiction to the lash of tannins on the finish. And yet the wine’s duality is so finely tuned and impeccably balanced that in only one sip everything comes together in a rush of vibrant flavors and textures. There’s also the fact that while it’s relatively inexpensive, Prioundo tastes like a much pricier wine. 92 Marguerite Thomas Mar 30, 2010

Domaine Sainte Croix, Corbières (Languedoc, France) “Le Fournas” 2012 ($16, T. Edward Wines): Corbières, one of the many appellations in the Languedoc, offers sturdy reds, such as this one, ideal for wintery fare. Dark fruit flavors dominate in this blend of Carignan, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, but do not overpower, and harmonize nicely with herbal notes. It has good structure without being aggressive. It carries the 14.5%-stated alcohol effortlessly as is often the case with wines from the warm Languedoc. Overall, it conveys a charming rusticity that would make it a good match for a hearty stew this winter.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2016

Domaines Baron Rothschild Lafite, Corbières (Languedoc, France) “Blason d’Aussiéres” 2008 ($17, Pasternak Wine Imports):

The usual suspects -- Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan -- come together to form a more muscular and sophisticated version of Les Deux Rives (also reviewed this week). Deeper and more concentrated, it conveys the similar attractive combination of spice and black fruit flavors. Despite its size, the tannins are polished (not surprisingly, as it is from the Lafite stable) making it more suave than rustic. This is a more “serious” wine with greater complexity -- a beguiling combination of minerality, fruitiness and earthiness -- at an excellent price. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2011

Pech-Latt, Corbières (Languedoc, France) 2011 ($12, HB Wine Merchants): You have just found your summertime grilling wine! Pech-Latt is one of the star producers in Corbières, one of the Languedoc’s most important appellations. A blend of Grenache (30%), Carignan (30%) Syrah (25%) and Mouvèdre, it transmits the sun and spice of the South of France. The magic is a beautifully balanced combination of bright fresh fruit flavors and herbal nuances at an extraordinary price. A touch of charming rusticity adds to its appeal. Buy it by the case--your guests this summer will be pleased you did.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Les Deux Rives, Corbières (Languedoc, France) 2008 ($9, Pasternak Wine Imports): Corbières, one of the best known of the many appellations that comprise the Languedoc region in the south of France, is a good source of high value red wine. And this is one of them. A typical Mediterranean blend of Grenache (40%), Syrah (30%), Mourvèdre 20 (%), and Carignan, it has a lovely combination of delicate spice and succulent red fruit, almost wild strawberry-like, notes. A charming rusticity adds character and authenticity. Surprising length, especially at this price, is an added bonus. It’s a perfect everyday “red meat” kind of wine. And a tremendous bargain. Stock up for this fall. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2011

Gérard Bertrand, Corbières Boutenac (Languedoc, France) “La Forge” 2009 ($70, USA Wine West): Gérard Bertrand is one of the winemaking stars in the Languedoc. La Forge, his flagship red, is a blend of old (100-year) vine Carignan and Syrah from a single vineyard on his estate, Domaine de Villemajou in newly recognized appellation, Corbières Boutenac, carved out of Corbières because of its distinctive terroir. This robust wine is remarkably elegant, fresh and balanced with lots of exotic spice--even hints of licorice--to offset the ripe black fruit notes. A serious wine, it carries the 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly. It’s not often you find a powerhouse like this one that is also long and refined. If the rest of the wines from this part of Corbières are this distinctive, it’s easy to see why Corbières Boutenac has its own appellation. Sadly, it comes in one of those oversized heavy bottles. The stature of this wine doesn’t need a big bottle. It speaks for itself. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012

Domaine du Pas de L’Escalette, Coteaux du Languedoc (France) 'Les Petits Pas' 2008 ($18, Elite Wine Imports): Made primarily with old-vine Grenache and Carignan grown in rocky, limestone-etched hills north of Montpelier, this offering from a relatively new domaine (founded by a husband and wife team in 2002) is a truly exciting discovery. It’s marked by deep primary fruit flavors that in turn are enhanced by a myriad of secondary ones—spice and leather, stony minerals, and more. Wonderfully long, it can compete successfully with top southern Rhône wines with a similar flavor profile that cost two or three times as much. Incidentally, this is the domaine’s "second" red wine, the "petite" (named for the couple’s two young sons). I can’t wait to try the "grand!" 93 Paul Lukacs Jan 19, 2010

Château de Lascaux, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) Pic St.-Loup 2006 ($18, Kermit Lynch): This wine is a poster boy for the French concept of terroir since the winemaking and blend is the same--60% Syrah and 40% Grenache--as in their regular Coteaux du Languedoc (also reviewed this week), but the flavors are markedly different. More refined and complex, its alluring minerality adds an extra dimension to its ripe, but not overdone, black fruit flavors. The tannins are fine and lend support without being intrusive. You can taste the influence of a grander area, Pic St.-Loup, which is lobbying for--and judging from this wine, is worth--its own appellation. An excellent buy. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Chateau Veronique, Coteaux du Languedoc (France) 2008 ($16, The Organic Wine Company): The Languedoc is finally getting its act together and transforming itself from the so-called wine lake to a place to find excellent wines. The benefit for consumers is that the prices have yet to catch up to the quality of the wines. The Chateau Veronique is a great example. Herbal and spice nuances meld beautifully with black fruit flavors. Slightly tarry overtones peek out. The tannins are appropriately firm, yet not aggressive or intrusive. For all its size, it has grace and finesse. Not a fruit bomb, it has attractive slightly bitter notes in the finish that add to its allure. It would be a great choice for hearty winter fare. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 1, 2013

Chateau Paul Mas, Coteaux du Languedoc (France) Clos des Mures 2011 ($23):

The various domains of Paul Mas throughout the south of France, in the Languedoc region that extends from Montpelier to the Spanish border and the Pyrenees mountains, are yet another example of the growing excellence in wine production that for so long eluded this beautiful part of the world. The 2011 Clos des Mures, a blend of syrah, grenache and mourvedre, is a shining example. It exhibits intense red and dark berry fruit aromas, with finely integrated tannins and tremendous persistence of flavor through a very long finish. This is an extremely classy red wine at a very modest price. This wine won a gold medal at the San Diego International wine competition earlier this year. Though listed at $23, the average price on WineSearcher.com is $17.
90 Robert Whitley Sep 10, 2013

Domaine d’Aupilhac, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) “Les Cocalieres” 2006 ($39, Kermit Lynch): This, the domaine's top-of the-line wine, comes from a separate parcel just outside the well-regarded Mont Peyroux area as opposed to a cellar selection of their 'best' wines. The higher altitude location of the vineyard means a cooler climate in this normally hot part of the south of France and explains the wine's elegance and polish. The usual Mediterranean blend--Syrah (40%), Mourvedre (30%) and Grenache--delivers an unusually stylish wine filled with earthy minerality and rich black fruit flavors. It has none of the coarseness that can mar wines from this part of France. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Les Hauts de la Brune, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2007 ($15, Kysela):

This is a remarkably stylish and interesting wine in light of its price. Medium-bodied, it shows faintly sweet fruit that is at once delicate and flavorful, along with a lovely floral topnote and very fine-grained tannins that frame the finish without drying or foreshortening it. Marked by real elegance and prettiness, this should prove exceptionally versatile at the table. 90 Michael Franz Jun 30, 2009

Château St. Martin de la Garrigue, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) “Cuvée Tradition” 2006 ($12, Kermit Lynch): A blend of Syrah and Carignan, Château St. Martin de la Garrigue’s Cuvée Tradition delivers a lot for the money. This charmingly rustic mixture of fresh red fruit flavors, appealing herbal qualities and moderate tannins makes this mid-weight wine a good choice for hearty wintry fare. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2009

Domaines Paul Mas, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) Château Paul Mas, Clos des Mures 2007 ($18, Grape Expectations): The Languedoc, a vast area in France’s southwest, remains confusing to consumers because of the plethora of appellations within the area. It’s worth slogging through the place names because a bevy of well-priced wines, such as this one, originate there. The Clos des Mures, a blend of mostly (85%) Syrah, with the remainder Grenache and Mourvèdre, is a full-bodied, bold wine with remarkably mild and supple tannins. It’s a lovely expression of plumy/peppery Syrah with an extra layer of herbal complexity from Grenache and Mourvèdre. Intense, without being overdone, it’s a good choice for butterflied leg of lamb on the grill. 89 Michael Apstein May 11, 2010

Château de Lascaux, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2006 ($17, Kermit Lynch): In the local dialect, lascaux means limestone and refers to the local terrain. Unusual for the Languedoc, there is no Carignan in this blend, only Syrah and Grenache, which helps to explain the weight of this fragrant, polished wine. Fresh and round, it has none of the rusticity or heaviness sometimes seen in wines from the Languedoc. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Château Lascaux, Côteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2006 ($15, Kermit Lynch): The Côteaux du Languedoc is an appellation (25,000 acres, roughly half the size of Napa) within the enormous Languedoc (500,000 acres) (in southern France on the west side of Rhône River where the typical Rhone varieties thrive. A classic blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (35%) and Mourvedre, the Chateau Lascaux is filled with spice and herbal elements mingled with black fruit flavors. Mild tannins lend support without intruding. Not as flamboyant as many Rhône-styled wines from California, it still has plenty of polished fruit that will make California fans very happy. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2009

Mas du Soleilla, Coteaux du Languedoc / La Clape (Languedoc, France) “Les Bartelles” 2007 ($40, Luxe Vintages): One of the things I most appreciate about the best wines of Languedoc is the balance they often achieve between rich, ripe fruit flavors carried on a lithe (as opposed to weighty) body. Les Bartelles is just such a wine: dense, bold, fruity and somewhat earthy, with licorice, spice, and distinct floral notes, it has soft tannins and is refreshingly supple without excessive opulence. 91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 27, 2010

Mas du Soleilla, Coteaux du Languedoc / La Clape (Languedoc, France) “Les Chailles” 2007 ($30, Luxe Vintages): Soft and mellow, with plenty of dark red fruit flavors, this is a wine that tastes of its place: dry and stony, with a punch of garrigue, the herbs that grow wild across Languedoc’s terrain. With its complementary dash of black pepper, hint of oak spice, and supple tannins, this is a wine that will shine with salami or spaghetti, beef or birds, lamb or lasagna--indeed, any relatively robust fare will be even more savory in the company of Les Chailles. 90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 27, 2010

Domaine de Lavabre, Coteaux du Languedoc / Pic St Loup (Languedoc, France) “Les Demoiselles de Lavabre” 2006 ($15, Jerome Selections NY): Intensely aromatic with notes of licorice, cassis and vanilla, this is a big, round wine with soft tannins and a long, spicy finish. As the image on the label indicates, Demoiselle is French for “dragonfly”, which seems somehow appropriate for a wine that is so graceful. Decant it before serving if you want it to really shine. 90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 15, 2011

Chateau Paul Mas, Coteaux du Languedoc AOP (France) Clos de Savignac 2013 ($25):

Paul Mas has emerged in recent years as one of the most quality driven producers in the Languedoc region, which covers a sweeping arc from the border with Spain all the way to the edges of Provence and the Rhone Valley. This GSM blend (55 percent Syrah, 25 percent Mourvedre and 20 percent Grenache) is a brilliant, savory red that expresses the exceptional terroir of this long overlooked region. The best part is that quality has outpaced recognition, so prices have remained modest. This is one of the great steals of the year in high-class red wine from France. Judges at the recent Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition awarded it a platinum medal and 95 points. 95 Robert Whitley Sep 23, 2014

Mas des Dames, Coteaux Languedoc (Languedoc, France) “La Dame” 2009 ($21, Vintage '59): Generously endowed and yet admirably layered and intricate, this impressive, interesting blend is comprised of 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan and 20% Syrah. Restrained use of wood leaves the delicious fruit in the forefront, with juicy notes of dark cherries and berries that are accented with backnotes of fresh meat and wild mushrooms. The texture is rounded but not overly soft, with ripe tannins lending definition without drying the finish. 91 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2012

Domaine Mouthes le Bihan, Côtes de Duras (Languedoc, Francs) "Vieillefont Rouge" 2004 ($16, Louis Dressner Selections): The French -- or at least some of them -- are finally changing the way they market their wines. The crisp eye-catching front label simply says Vieillefont. The obscure AOC -- Côtes de Duras -- and even the producer's name are relegated to the back label. This ripe, plush blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec makes a more modern style of wine than is common in this ignored part of France. Still, its appealing structure, complexity and length come through. It's a modern bottle that remembers its origins. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2006

Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Languedoc, France) “Les Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2012 ($13, H. B. Wine Merchants):

Chapoutier, one of the great producers of Rhone wines, has recently started producing wines in the Languedoc and we consumers are the beneficiaries. This robust red has all the sun-kissed warm fruit flavors you’d expect from the South of France while savory spicy notes act as a foil. It finishes with a hint of bitterness, not a blast of sweetness. Mild, polished tannins allow you to enjoy it now. Its charming rusticity makes it a good choice for burgers on the grill. It’s a great bargain.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2014

Château de Jau, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Languedoc, France) 2008 ($13, Pasternak Wine Imports): The usual Mediterranean suspects, Syrah (45%), Mourvèdre (30%), Carignan (15%), and Grenache, come together here to form a winning combination. There’s a wild strawberry-like fruitiness coupled with engaging earthy notes for added complexity. Nicely polished tannins make this mid-weight red easy to enjoy now. It’s got more class than you’d expect for the price, so stock up--it’s a good choice for hearty fall fare. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2011

Bila-Haut, Côtes du Rousssillon Villages Latour de France (Languedoc, France) "Occultum Lapidem" 2013 ($30, HB Wine Merchants):

Michel Chapoutier, the renowned Rhône producer, has a personal estate in the Languedoc, called Bila-Haut. Latour de France (not to be confused with the bicycle race) is one of the four specific towns that have the potential to produce more distinctive wine and are allowed to append their names to the more encompassing Côtes du Rousssillon Villages appellation, much like the better villages in the Rhône can attach their names to the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. Think of it as a stepping-stone before promotion to a stand-alone appellation with more prestige. The name of the wine, Occultum Lapidem, is Latin for “hidden gem.” While the label might take some explaining, what’s inside can be described quite simply--yummy, to use a highly technical word. Robust, but not out of place, Occultum Lapidem delivers exotic spice intertwined with .both red and black fruits. It’s a delight to drink because, although big and burly, it’s still not flamboyant or overpowering. Freshness and mild tannins lend appropriate support to the typical Mediterranean blend of Syrah (50%), Grenache (30%) and Carignan. To be sure, it’s not an aperitif type wine. It screams for meat from the grill. For once, the name is correct--it’s a hidden gem.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 21, 2015

Hecht & Bannier is a relatively new boutique negociant eleveur well worth seeking out. Just about everything of theirs I’ve tasted is delicious—some of them are pricey compared to other wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon perhaps, but the pleasure quotient can hardly be overstated. This Faugères, for example, is as deeply colored and plushly textured as velvet, with invigorating fruit and spiciness. It finishes with an astonishing minerality. I like the description of that minerality by a friend of mine, who is as impressed as I am by Hecht & Bannier: "The finish is like licking those big, white stones that cover some of the Faugères vineyards."

Domaine Ollier Taillefer, Faugères (Languedoc, France) "Les Collines" Rouge 2015 ($20, Vintage ’59 Imports):

A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 20% Carignan, this wine illustrates why good Languedoc wines taste different from Rhône ones, even though the grape varieties are much the same. It’s fresh and lively, with a bright bouquet and flavors that, while reminiscent of dark fruits and freshly planted earth, nonetheless seem vivacious. Rhône blends tend to be weightier and more somber, so to my taste, this wine’s profile makes it an especially good choice for warm weather drinking.
91 Paul Lukacs May 15, 2018

Domaine La Borie Fouisseau, Faugères (Languedoc, France) “Salamandre” 2005 ($18, Grand Vintage, Inc.): A delicious bistro wine, meaning fruity and (given that it’s four years old) still fresh, with just enough leather, spice, and dried herb notes in the background to give it complexity and make it taste legitimately (southern) French. Perfect to accompany steak frites. 88 Paul Lukacs Nov 10, 2009

Domaine St. Roch, Fitou (Languedoc, France) 2007 ($15): A superb wine for the price, Domaine St. Roch's '07 Fitou is a 50-50 blend of Grenache and Carignan, shows a spicy mix of red and black fruit aromas, intense minerality and good overall balance. A leafy back note provides an attractive albeit subtle complexity. It should be noted Fitou is the oldest AOC in the Languedoc. 89 Robert Whitley Oct 12, 2010

Mas de Daumas Gassac, IGP Pays d’Hérault (Languedoc, France) “Moulin de Gassac Guilhem” 2011 ($13, Polaner): Mas de Daumas Gassac, dubbed the Lafite of the Languedoc by France’s prestigious Gault et Millau guide in 1982, has been producing this value packed every day kind of wine since the early 1990s. It is not a second wine by any means since the blend--Syrah (40%), Grenache (25%), Mourvèdre (20%) and Carignan--bears no resemblance to their top wine, which is primarily (80%) Cabernet Sauvignon. Nonetheless, the talent of the producer is evident with the combination of fruit and herbal flavors wrapped in suave tannins. This “pizza wine” delivers far more complexity than you’d expect for the price.
87 Michael Apstein Mar 12, 2013

Maison des Terroirs Vivants, IGP Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Syrah “La Marouette” 2012 ($15, The Organic Wine Company): An incredible value, this $15 Syrah manages to combine the attractive slightly beefy and the ripe plumy components that Syrah can deliver. It’s a masterful mix, especially at the price. Certainly bold enough for wintertime fare--or steaks on the grill (summer will eventually be here)--it’s not overdone or alcoholic. Uplifting freshness and suave tannins allows it to slide right down.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2013

Mas de Daumas Gassac, Languedoc (France) 2014 ($43):

Long one of the established stars within the Languedoc, which is known much more for quantity production than quality, Mas de Daumas Gassac remains at the top of its game with this release from 2014. From the outset, the wines were based on Cabernet and Merlot (with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and drips of a few other varieties) rather than the typical varieties of southern France, and planted on rough terrain that had previously been thought unsuitable by those geared toward high yields. Long regarded locally with suspicion (or outright hostility) but globally with admiration, the estate’s 2014 shows excellent strength but also impressive balance and integration of fruit, tannin, wood and acidity -- even at this young age. These wines always improve markedly if permitted five to ten years, and that’s a word to the wise that applies to this vintage as well.
93 Michael Franz Aug 23, 2016

Gérard Bertrand, Languedoc (France) Pinot Noir “Côte des Roses” 2018 ($17):

Languedoc (a.k.a. Pays d’Oc) is a large, general wine region in the southwest of France. It begins east of Marseilles and ends at the border with Spain. It brings to mind visions of hot and dry — not exactly the prime conditions for growing Pinot Noir. However, there are areas with cooler weather due to the proximity of the Pyrenees Mountains, so it turns out that Pinot Noir is not such a crazy idea after all. The grapes for this scrumptious Pinot Noir come from cooler areas between Carcassone and Limoux, famous for Blanquette de Limoux (considered by some to be the first sparkling wine). The vineyards are at elevations between 500 and 1200 feet. Its deep ruby color and lovely aromas of black cherry, raspberry and violets foreshadow the pleasure to come. In the mouth the wine is at once delicate and intense or as producer Gérard Bertrand says, “male and female, yin and yang, a steel fist in a velvet glove.” Black cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit flavors with floral violet and vanilla notes are round in feel, while nervy acidity and ripe tannins provide backbone. Serve it with grilled salmon or a pork tenderloin. The wine comes in the beautiful bottle with the rose on its base that was created for the Côtes des Roses Rosé.
92 Rebecca Murphy Aug 4, 2020

Mas des Dames, Languedoc (France) "La Diva" 2007 ($24, Vintage ’59 Imports): This is the sort of wine that would make me very, very nervous if I were trying to charge people $65 for Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Alicante, it is rich and packed with ripe fruit, but also shows lots of character in the form of exotic, earthy aromas and flavors around the edges. This earthiness is on the right side of the line dividing “earthy” from “dirty,” and these notes are accents rather than dominant elements, so nobody should shy from the wine on this account. There is enough tannin to focus and frame the wine, but the finish is still quite soft and inviting, making this a great choice for braised meats like lamb shanks. 92 Michael Franz Nov 30, 2010

Laurent Miquel, Languedoc (France) Syrah “Nord Sud” 2010 ($14, Miquel et Fils): Full and fruity, with bing cherry flavors, hints of mocha and a dose of spice, this very savory Syrah has immense appeal. It expresses the voluptuous energy of a warm, sunny viticultural region, with a sweep of agreeably gritty tannins on the finish. 91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 23, 2012

Gerard Bertrand, Languedoc (France) Grenache / Syrah 2017 ($13, Soutern Glazers):

Having explored and been blown away by many wines from Minervois and Roussillon, I was curious to see how Bertrand, former athletic hero and now the largest exporter of Languedoc wines, would handle them. His top-of-the-line Château l'Hospitalet is a beauty, and the 2015 Minervois La Liviniere is a winner for value. But the real test to me was this supermarket favorite, entry-level Languedoc. From its medium-dark color, bright appearance and black fruit, floral tinged aroma, it easily passed inspection. Medium-bodied with spicy berry and cola flavors, it ends with some Syrah-like spice, smoked meat and subtle grainy tannin notes. Nicely rendered and restrained.
90 Norm Roby Jan 26, 2021

Mas Belles Eaux, Languedoc (France) “Les Coteaux” 2008 ($20, Vintus): AXA, the insurance company that also owns Château Pichon Baron and other superb properties, purchased this one in 2002 because it had “good bones.” They poured gobs of money into it renovating and modernizing the vineyards and winery and it shows in this gorgeous wine. A traditional blend of Syrah (70%), Grenache (20%) and Mouvèdre, it has the intensity and lush dark fruit flavors characteristic of wine from the sunny Languedoc. What distinguishes it is its polish. Think of it as a combination of the class of Bordeaux with the power of the Languedoc. The tannins are very fine, which means it’s an excellent choice when you fire up the grill. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2012

Hecht & Bannier, Languedoc (France) 2011 ($14, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The Languedoc, an enormous swath of vineyards in the sunny South of France extending west from the Rhone River to the Spanish border, is a minefield for wine. The wines range from unique and wonderful to astringent and dilute. With literally thousands of small growers and producers, it takes a lot of work to find the rewarding ones. That’s why the appearance of Hecht & Bannier, a top-notch négociant specializing in the area, is so welcome. Their name assures you of a satisfying wine reflective of the appellation, be it a large one, such as this one, the Languedoc, or a small one, such as Minervois. Not overdone or manipulated, the Hecht & Bannier Languedoc delivers the requisite fruit and spice, unencumbered by wood aging, you’d expect from the customary blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. But what makes this wine unique is a charm that reflects what must be the blending talents of Hecht & Bannier. It’s another good choice for the grilled meats or robust pasta dishes.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Hecht et Bannier, Languedoc (France) 2010 ($12, Frederick Wildman): Hecht et Bannier, a small high-quality négociant, is something of a rarity in this part of France. Founded only about 10 years ago, they make wines from many of the diverse appellations within the larger Languedoc area. If you ever wanted to know the differences among, say, Minervois, Côtes du Roussillon Villages and Faugères, this is the place to start because the winemaking is the same. What’s different is the origin of the grapes and the blend allowed by the appellation. This satisfying lowest level red wine, carrying solely the Languedoc appellation, has ripe fruit, but weighs in with a modest (for this region) 13.5% alcohol. A touch of tarry earthiness and spice adds unexpected complexity. My advice is to stock up on this well-priced hearty winter wine. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012

Mas Delles Eaux, Languedoc (France) Les Coteaux 2005 ($20, Vintex): This seamless blend of Syrah (70%), Grenache (20%) and Mourvèdre delivers an exciting combination of spice and plummy black fruit. It’s a powerful yet not overdone wine. Supple tannins and a fleshy texture make it easy to enjoy now, especially with the start of the grilling season. 88 Michael Apstein May 18, 2010

Bernard Magrez, Languedoc AOC (France) “Le Paon de Bernard Magrez” 2019 ($25, Hemispheres LLC):

This blend of Grenache, Syrah Carignane and Cinsault finds a balance between notes of terroir and fruit very nicely, with raspberry and spice over dry earth and stone. It’s a fine bottle for pairing with roast pork or fowl – go right ahead and herb encrust that meat! A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.
94 Rich Cook Feb 9, 2021

Le Paon de Bernard Magrez, Languedoc AOC (France) “Le Paon” 2018 ($25):

Bottled as a tribute to a trailblazing winemaker, this wine serves the purpose well by showing restraint and panache. It’s a Rhône inspired blend that keeps its Languedoc character thanks to 15% Carignan in the mix, giving a sunny Southern French lift to the Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. There’s great integration through the finish, and it is certainly a bargain considering its stature. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Monterey International Wine Competition.
93 Rich Cook Mar 28, 2021

Laroche, Languedoc Pays d'Oc IGP (France) Cabernet Sauvignon 'La Chevaliere' 2013 ($13, Wilson Daniels):

Burgundy's Domaine Laroche, producer of exquisite Chablis, has joined the parade of vintners now cultivating in the Languedoc. The quality curve in the Languedoc has been bending upward over the past decade, but the rise in quality over the past few vintages has been nothing short of meteoric. One great example is this $13 Cabernet from Laroche, which does a pretty darn good imitation of a tasty Bordeaux from the Medoc. It shows bright black currant and plum fruit, an inviting nose of violets and spice, and firm tannins on the back end, with a light herbal touch. If you've been looking for a superb house Cab for less than $15 a bottle, stop looking.
88 Robert Whitley Jan 6, 2015

Domaine d’Aupilhac, Languedoc-Montpeyroux (Languedoc, France) 2010 ($20, Kermit Lynch):

The appellation system in the Languedoc is currently undergoing dramatic changes. Technically, this wine is still an AOC Coteaux du Languedoc with the name of the subregion, Montpeyroux, on the label. Soon, it will have its own appellation, simply Montpeyroux. But let’s leave the specifics of the nomenclature aside because they detract from the enjoyment you get from this wine. A blend of the usual Mediterranean suspects, Mourvèdre (30%), Carignan (29%), Syrah (25%) and Grenache, it’s dense and ripe, as you’d expect from a wine from this part of the South of France. The unexpected aspect is the elegance and class that accompanies the density. Tannins are quite graceful and polished, making it easy to enjoy this burly wine with rich meats. Not overdone, you can appreciate the layers of flavor that pour forth.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 16, 2013

Hecht et Bannier, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2009 ($18, Frederick Wildman):

A smaller appellation within the greater Languedoc, Minervois has the potential to produce wines with more finesse. And this one does. Still slightly tarry with spice, even a hint of licorice, it’s more focused on the pepper and spice rather than solely the fruit notes. It has far more sophistication than many wines from the region. It’s another good choice for a hearty lamb shank this fall. 92 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012

Domaine du Somail, Minervois (Languedoc, France) “Le Vin de Plume” 2020 ($18):

With 37 acres biodynamically farmed in the eastern corner of Minervois, the domaine produces a range of reds. Its “Plume” is a blend of 80% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah which was a step up over many popular reds from Minervois relying on Carignane. Quite dark, it opens up quickly to reveal aromas of dark fruit with hints of mint and an herbal note. Medium+ bodied, it has ripe blueberry flavors mingled with black pepper. Gentle tannins and good acidity hold it together, and the youthful finish bodes well for short term aging.
91 Norm Roby Sep 20, 2022

Chateau Coupe Roses, Minervois (Languedoc, France) “Bastide” 2015 ($20, Vintage 59 Imports):

This offering from Languedoc sits invitingly dark and brooding in the glass. Seductive aromas of earth, compost and barnyard waft up, and on the palate it is herbal and spice-laden, with hints of dark berries. At first tasting the wine seemed to me a little short on the finish, but it opened up beautifully once food was introduced (in this case a juicy duck breast garnished with olives and grapes) -- proving once again that tasting wine without food is an incomplete experience. One thing I can say for sure about “Bastide” is that it’s a wine with plenty of personality.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 19, 2017

Château d’Oupia, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2007 ($12, Louis Dressner Selections): Minervois, a small appellation (10,000 acres) within the Languedoc, has the potential for producing wines with considerable character, such as this one. A wonderful mixture of gamey elements, earthy notes, and nuances of spice, it has remarkable suave and polished tannins for a wine from this area. It’s another great choice for wintertime fare. A great buy! 90 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2009

Hecht & Bannier, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2010 ($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.):

Hecht & Bannier is a high quality négociant specializing in the wines from the Languedoc. If you ever want to explore how the wines from the different appellations in this part of the South of France differ, pick up bottlings from Hecht & Bannier and taste them side by side. The winemaking style is constant so the difference you taste is the difference between the appellations. Minervois, one of the many appellations in the Languedoc, is known for wines that combine elegance with the ripeness ubiquitous to the region. Stéphane Roux, Director of Minervois appellation, attributes the elegance to the winds that continuously rush through the meteorological corridor linking the Atlantic with the Mediterranean, cooling the adjacent hillsides. Whatever the reason, the wines from Minervois seem to have an alluring herbal component that, in this instance, Hecht & Bannier have captured. They have combined the ripe and spicy notes you’d expect from the usual Mediterranean blend of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache with a floral aspect that makes this Minervois impossible to resist. It’s another ideal choice when you fire up the grill.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Hecht & Bannier, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2006 ($22, Frederic Wildman):

We’ve probably all experienced certain mediocre wines coming from Southern France’s Minervois region, but here’s one that proves that excellent fruit plus skilled winemaking equals terrific wine. Powerful, generous and sensual, it has bright fruit, a hint of licorice, and lively acidity.

Château de Paraza, Minervois (Languedoc, France) “Cuvée Spéciale” 2009 ($12, Vinum): A great picnic, burger, or pizza wine, this red hails from the western Languedoc in southern France, and offers delicious rustic charm. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvedre, and just a dash of Merlot, it’s full of flavor but never seems heavy or hot. Instead, it’s remarkably smooth and easy to drink, with echoes of herbes de Provence enhancing its plum and dark cherry fruit flavors. Especially given its low price tag, there’s a great deal to get excited about here. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 6, 2012

L’Ostal Cazes, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 'Estibals' 2007 ($15, Palm Bay):

Deeply colored and wonderfully dry and chewy as befits a well-made wine from a hot and sunny terroir, Estibals teems with raspberry and cherry flavors plus a whoosh of dried herbs. This is truly a bargain for anyone who likes robust, well structured red wine that also boasts a measure of finesse.

Château d'Oupia, Minervois (Languedoc, France) "Rouge Tradition" 2005 ($11, Louis Dressner Selections): This juicy 'everyday' type of wine, a blend of Syrah and Carignan, has considerable ripeness nicely balanced by spice. It's a great value. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006

Domaine Borie de Maurel, Minervois (Languedoc, France) “Esprit d’Automme” 2009 ($15, Small Vineyards, LLC): Esprit d’Automme is this winery’s entry-level wine, but that doesn’t mean that it isn’t a serious wine. A blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache, it tastes of lovely ripe strawberry, raspberry fruit with savory notes of dried herbs and spicy black pepper. It’s juicy and generous on the palate with dusty tannins in the finish. The herbal component of the savory notes come from the local vegetation called garrigue, best understood by taking a walk in the Languedoc countryside where hundreds of aromatic plants grow wild. Plants like thyme, rosemary, fennel, fig, lavender and juniper growing on the limestone soil of the region blend their aromas into a perfume found nowhere else on earth. 88 Rebecca Murphy Sep 18, 2012

L’Ostal Cazes, Minervois la Liviniere (Languedoc, France) 'Grand Vin' 2007 ($38, Palm Bay):

The notable Bordeaux Cazes family has taken on a 370-acre wine property in the warm Mediterranean region of Languedoc, which they’ve named L’Ostal Cazes (Ostal, which comes from Occitan, the region’s ancient language, Langue d’Oc, means both "house" and the family that lives in it). The succulent Grand Vin is as densely bright and colored as a glittering garnet, and is full of spicy and fruity notes with an edge of eucalyptus, chocolate, licorice and vanilla. It has intense concentration, and also great drinkability sustained by a notable freshness that prevents the palate from getting fatigued.

Château Maris, Minervois La Livinière (Languedoc, France) "La Touge" 2019 ($19):

British born Robert Eden now focuses on a range of wines within the Languedoc region and “La Touge” is a small parcel farmed organically. In 1999, the ancient region of La Liviniere became the first in the Languedoc to be granted Cru status and it is home (in my experience) to the best from Minervois. Château Maris has been a major player, and this 2019 captures the regional style that is both expressive and silky smooth in texture. A typical blend of Syrah, Grenache and 10% Carignane, It offers up lovely aromas of black fruits, herbs and subtle spices. The flavors take on notes of olive and blackberry along with gentle tannins. The finish is long and smooth. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it is one to enjoy over the next several years.
93 Norm Roby Nov 7, 2023

Château Maris, Minervois La Livinière (Languedoc, France) "La Touge" 2017 ($20, Vintners Alliance):

La Livinière is a sub-AOC within Minervois as well as being an ancient, charming village. With Chateau Maris, British born Robert Eden focuses on a range of wines within the Languedoc region and “La Togue” is a small parcel farmed organically. This 2017, 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, was fermented in concrete and minimally handled. The result is a deeply colored wine that pleases with its blackberry, slightly meaty and peppery aromas. Ultra smooth and harmonious, it also captures a hint of lavender or what the Languedoc people refer to as “garrigue.” I’ve visited Minervois 3 times and was at Chateau Maris not long after it opened. It is Demeter Certified and Eden was an early advocate of biodynamic farming. This wine was fermented by native yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The label is recycled paper.
90 Norm Roby May 4, 2021

Marius by Michel Chapoutier, Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Syrah / Grenache 2017 ($14, Terlato Wines International):

Chapoutier produces such a wide range of wines from the Rhône and the South of France that it was no surprise to encounter one new to me. This 2017 “Marius” is made from 55% Syrah and 45% Grenache, vinified separately and ultimately blended and bottled in Tain, Chapoutier’s home base. The back label story identifies Marius as Michel’s great grandfather. Obviously meant to be an unpretentious wine, this certainly succeeds as an everyday red. It offers fresh plum and spice aromas and is round and smooth on the palate. Neither a fruit bomb nor rustic, it is a versatile red that can be chilled and has enough going for it to accompany a main course.
88 Norm Roby Oct 12, 2021

St. Desir, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Syrah-Merlot 2020 ($18, Hemispheres):

Let’s drink a toast to experimentation with blending with this fine mix of Syrah and Merlot. The cassis driven nose leads to a bright berry filled palate with chalky tannins that temper the sweetness and extend the finish. A slight chill on this will bring out its best attributes. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Rich Cook Oct 12, 2021

Georges Duboeuf, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Merlot 2017 ($12, Quintessential Wines):

This is a Merlot for the masses, a fruity Merlot that delivers juicy notes of plum and bing cherry with a touch of spice and supple tannins. Though hardly profound or even exceptionally complex, it is an enjoyable wine impeccably made that should please any crowd. Perfect for a summer gathering around the barbecue.
86 Robert Whitley Feb 26, 2019

Georges Duboeuf, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Pinot Noir 2017 ($12, Quintessential Wines):

The Duboeuf Pinot Noir from the south of France won’t remind you of premier cru red Burgundy, but it doesn’t have to at $12 bucks. In a category that is routinely priced between $40 and $200, there is a dearth of drinkable Pinot at a budget price. The 2017 Duboeuf is light and fleshy, showing an attractive floral note and dark cherry fruit. The palate is supple and juicy and the ultimate pleasure is remarkable for the price.
85 Robert Whitley Feb 26, 2019

Albert Bichot, Pays d’Oc IGT (Languedoc, France) Pinot Noir - Syrah “C’Est La Vie” 2020 ($15, Albert Bichot USA):

The Bichot family has been in the Burgundy area of France since 1350. They got into the wine business in 1831 when Bernard Bichot created a wine trading company. His son, Hippolyte, bought vines in Volnay, and his son, Albert, moved the company business to Beaune in 1912. Today the Bichot family owns six estates in Chablis, Cotes Nuits, Nuits Saint George, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonise, and Moulin-a-Vent, which is in Beaujolais. Their estate vineyards are certified organic. They are serious Burgundy vintners who have a sense of adventure. Why else would they make this cheerful, juicy, easy drinking wine made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Syrah grown in the Languedoc in southern France? It is affordable and versatile equally at home with a burger or a juicy steak.
91 Rebecca Murphy Jun 20, 2023

Laroche, Pays D'Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Cabernet Sauvignon “La Chevaliere" 2013 ($13, Wilson Daniels):

Thirteen dollars American pricing for a French Cabernet that's this good sends up my "House Wine Alert" flag to sommeliers everywhere. This took a bit of time to open up, but it did so with grace, bringing black berry, black cherry, violets, mild dried herbs and soft oak spice on the nose and in the mouth, with good acid structure, firm grip and a medium long finish that brings the floral element back around over light earth tones. Factor in low alcohol, and you've got plenty of pairing possibilities here, with everything from moderately aged cheeses to roast beef to blackened fish in play. Laroche's forays outside of Chablis are proving to be good news for consumers!
90 Rich Cook Jan 13, 2015

Cote Mas, Pezenas, Coteaux du Languedoc AOP (France) 2013 ($19): Cote Mas is one of the great values in the wine world today. This vintage of the Pezenas blend offers intriguing notes of black pepper, savory garrigue and pretty red fruits. It is a montage of Rhone grapes: Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. The tannins are smooth and supple and the blend is showing beautifully at this early stage. And best of all, the price is right. Awarded a platinum medal at the 2014 Sommelier Challenge. 94 Robert Whitley Sep 23, 2014

Gérard Bertrand, Pic Saint Loup (Coteaux du Languedoc, France) 2011 ($19, USA Wine West): Pic Saint Loup, one of the top areas within the Languedoc, is in line to receive its own appellation because its wines have the potential stand above the rest. Gérard Bertrand, a well-established négociant in the Languedoc, has realized that potential. His 2011 Pic Saint Loup combines the black fruit flavors and herbs nuances you’d expect from a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre with a firm underpinning of minerality. The tannins are polished, which makes this wine fine to drink now with game or other hearty fare.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013

Chateau Bousquette, Saint-Chinian (France) “Prestige” 2009 ($27, The Organic Wine Company):

The team at Chateau Bousquette has seamlessly integrated Syrah and Grenache to produce a stellar wine that delivers both power and elegance. Red fruit and herbal notes are harmoniously intertwined with earthy mineral-like elements in this complex, layered beauty. There’s an appealing firmness and freshness. It’s lovely now with polished fine tannins, but its balanced suggests it will develop beautifully with proper cellaring. But I’m not sure many will be able to wait. This is not a wine to sip as an aperitif, but rather to drink and savor with hearty roasted lamb shanks. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 1, 2013

Domaine Rimbert, Saint-Chinian (Languedoc, France) ‘Les Travers de Marceux’ 2008 ($14, Jenny and Francois Selections): The usual Mediterranean blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre has come together nicely in this moderately full-bodied red wine. Filled with a combination of spice, herbs and red fruit-like flavors, it’s balanced and fresh. It would be a good choice for simple meat or even well seasoned chicken on the grill. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010

Chateau des Cres Ricards, Terrasses Du Larzac (Languedoc, France) “Oenothera” 2012 ($20, Esprit Du Vin): This glass presents aromas of jumping in a pile of fresh fallen leaves, with tobacco leaf, black pepper and fall spice backed by black cherry, currants and mild vanilla that translate beautifully on a dry food friendly palate. I'd serve something gamey here. Contains 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache.
92 Rich Cook Dec 30, 2014

Chateau des Cres Ricards, Terrasses Du Larzac (Languedoc, France) "Stecia" 2013 ($11, Esprit Du Vin): This wine contains 60% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 15% Carignan. Well blended elements of red meat, blueberry, blackberry, pepper and anise come through on nose and palate, all staying in the mix through a long finish where the Carignan character shows up smartly. This is fine food wine that won't break your budget!
90 Rich Cook Dec 30, 2014

Mas des Brousses, Terrasses du Larzac (Coteaux du Languedoc, France) 2011 ($26, Polaner): Although the Terrasses du Larzac, one of the best subregions of the Coteaux du Languedoc, has not yet gained official recognition, I have listed it as the appellation because it is expected to be awarded that status within the year. Already Terrasses du Larzac appears more prominently on the label than the legal appellation, Coteaux du Languedoc. Despite the ambiguity about the labeling, there’s no question about the wine’s quality. A blend of Syrah (60%) and Mourvèdre, it delivers concentrated black fruit and herbal notes with considerable class. It would be a fine choice for robust winter fare or grilled meat this summer. It has more polish than you might expect from a wine from the Languedoc, which explains why Terrasses du Larzac deserves its own appellation.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 12, 2013

J. & F. Lurton, Vin de Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Pinot Noir "Les Salices" 2005 ($10, ExCellars): The Languedoc region in the south of France is better known for bold ripe wines than for producing a delicate, fragrant Pinot Noir, such as this one. Not as intense--nor as jammy--as many Pinot Noirs from California, Lurton's has lovely ripe red fruit flavors, but retains an elegance rarely found at this price level. This is an exceptional value, especially for Pinot Noir, a notoriously expensive wine! 87 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2007

Laroche, Vin de Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Pinot Noir 2006 ($10, Rémy Cointreau): Certainly one of the best Pinot available from anywhere at this price level, this wine gets off to a good start with attractive color and moderate pigmentation as well as attractive scents of wild strawberry and black cherry. Subtle wood notes appear in both the aromas and flavors, and the wine offers very good balance between fruit, acidity and wood. Showing lots of flavor but none of the confected, chunky character that mars so many inexpensive Pinots these days, this is a great buy. 87 Michael Franz Feb 26, 2008

Domaine De Nizas, Vin de Pays D’oc (Languedoc, France) “Le Mas” 2005 ($13, Clos du Val Wine Co.): The wine has slightly earthy aromas, with hints of cherries and pencil shavings. It's light in body, with black cherry fruit and bright acidity. Simple and tasty, the wine finishes with a slight tannic kick. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 25% Syrah, the Le Mas pairs nicely with mild Italian sausage. 86 Tina Caputo Jun 10, 2008

Luc Pirlet, Vin de Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Syrah - Mourvèdre Réserve 2021 ($14, Silver Lake Imports):

Luc Pirlet is a terroir-focused producer making wine from a variety of vineyards spanning the Languedoc. His Réserve Syrah - Mourvèdre shows bright red fruit and definitive French terroir notes. The tannins of the wine are nicely balanced against the fruit structure, a positive for two grapes known for their powerful tannins. With a retail price tag under $15, this is a great weekday drinke. It is lighter in body and refreshing but sufficiently scratches the red-wine itch.
89 Vince Simmon Sep 26, 2023

Domaine de Nizas, Vin de Pays de Caux (France) Carignan 'Vieilles Vignes' 2006 ($16): Impressed as I was by this estate’s Le Mas Rouge, the Carignan is even better. This wine exhibits aromas of red fruit and dried herbs, is well balanced, and possesses scintillating minerality. It is produced from 50-year-old Carignan vines, the age no doubt contributing to low yields and enhanced flavor intensity. In the realm of red wines for less than $20, this one looms large. 91 Robert Whitley Jan 12, 2010

Domaine de Nizas, Vin de Pays de Caux (Languedoc, France) Carignan Vielles Vignes 2007 ($17, Clos du Val Wine Co.): Carignan may be the comeback-kid of wine. Though it isn’t seen much as a stand-alone grape these days, Carignan once flourished in southwestern France, where it appears to be gaining some traction again. Domaine de Nizas’ Carignan grapes come from a 50 year old vineyard, and yield wines that are a little edgy, with vibrant aromas, dark fruits, and lashings of garrigue, Languedoc’s typical mélange of wild herbs (including thyme, rosemary, juniper berries). 90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 20, 2010

Domaine de Nizas, Vin de Pays de Caux (Languedoc, France) Carignan Vieilles Vignes 2006 ($20, Clos du Val Wine Co.):

Still available in many markets, this 2006 is drinking beautifully right now. Its tannins have softened so as to make it feel invitingly supple, while the influence of air and time has not yet begun to dampen the flavors that make it so inviting. Those flavors recall dark fruits enhanced by black licorice, savory spice, and loamy earth, giving the wine exciting complexity. Reminiscent of a top-flight Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, it outperforms its “vin de pays” status. 90 Paul Lukacs Nov 16, 2010

Domaine de Nizas, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) 'Le Mas Rouge' 2007 ($14): This property in the south of France, near the village of Nizas in the Languedoc region, is owned by American John Goelet of Napa's Clos du Val winery. The Le Mas Rouge is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot -- grapes that thrive in the area -- exhibiting lush black fruit aromas, hints of spices and herbs, and a touch of minerality. It's well balanced, an exceptional food wine. 89 Robert Whitley Jan 5, 2010

Domaine Paul Mas / Arrogant Frog, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Pinot Noir “Lily Pad Noir" 2009 ($10, Palm Bay International): Unrepentant wine snobs may turn their noses up at the Arrogant Frog line of wines, but those who love a bargain as well as wine should be thrilled by them. A sense of humor will add to the overall enjoyment of these wines too, for the genuinely witty Arrogant Frog goes way beyond the mindless critter labels that clutter up wine shop shelves. But of course none of this really matters since what’s in the bottle is what counts, and honest oenophiles will not be disappointed by the quality of this $10 Pinot. Lightly floral, it has a medium body, and is very dry except for a slight buzz of sweetness on the generous finish. Aged 5 months in barrel plus an additional 2 months in bottle prior to its release, it’s a surprisingly sophisticated wine for this price range. 89 Marguerite Thomas Apr 20, 2010

Domaine de Nizas, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) “Le Mas Rouge” 2007 ($14, Clos du Val Wine Co.): The wine is medium bodied, with a judicious dose of berries and dark plums along with a potpourri of dried herbs and notes of oak. One of the principal attractions of Mas Rouge is the fact that it doesn’t hammer you with masses of ripe, concentrated fruit--a little of that kind of restraint can go a long way, especially as the weather warms up and we begin yearning for wines imbued with flavor but not heaviness. 88 Marguerite Thomas Apr 20, 2010

Pierre Henri, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Pinot Noir 2008 ($10, The Country Vintner):

This is a bizarre wine. It comes in a round-shouldered Bordeaux-type bottle rather than a sloped Burgundy one like virtually all examples of Pinot Noir do. More to the point, on the palate it bears absolutely no resemblance to any wine made with Pinot that I have ever tasted. Instead, being dark in color, and marked by black fruit flavors enhanced by echoes of dried herbs and savory spice, it seems much more like Languedoc wines made with Grenache or Syrah or perhaps Carignan. But it’s also undeniably delicious--and a bargain to boot. I suspect you’ll really like it, provided that you don’t expect aromas and flavors of Pinot Noir.

Paul Mas / Arrogant Frog, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) "Croak Rotie" 2009 ($10, Palm Bay International): A little spicy, a little floral, with a hint of blueberries and chocolate, the wine is especially fun to drink with outdoorsy foods such as grilled burgers or ribs. It’s also a great choice to serve with pasta, and its perfect for pizza. Chill it down a tad, especially in warm weather, to emphasize Croak Rotie’s innate freshness. 87 Marguerite Thomas Apr 20, 2010

Jean-Luc Colombo, Vin de Pays d'Oc (France) Syrah "La Violette" 2003 ($11, Palm Bay): A very nice and quite interesting little wine, this affordable Syrah delivers very precise aromas and flavors. Notes of dark berries, tobacco leaf, anise and fresh flowers are very appealing, and moderate ripeness, body and oak make it a great choice for roast pork, venison or duck. 86 Michael Franz Dec 6, 2005

Les Jamelles, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($9, Cellar Door Selections): This is a very solid wine at a very attractive price. It shows straightforward fruit recalling dark berries, with just enough tannin in the finish to provide some firmness and definition. 84 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2006

Les Jamelles, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Pinot Noir 2005 ($9, Cellar Door Selections): Of all the current releases in the (very nice) Les Jamelles line of wines, this came as the biggest surprise to me. Inexpensive Pinot almost never tastes like Pinot, but this one does, with nice notes of red and black cherries and a very faint spice note. Soft but not overtly sweet, this is a nice little wine for everyday sipping. 83 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2006

Petit Bistrot, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Merlot 2005 ($9, Palm Bay): This appears to be a new entrant (or, more precisely, a new line of entrants) in the global competition to sell lots of affordable wine under cute labels. It shows nice plum fruit with a little tannin to provide backing, and that's about it, but this is a solid drink for $9, whereas much of what sells for that price would be beaten silly by a decent glass of beer. 83 Michael Franz Sep 26, 2006

Domaine de Nizas, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2007 ($16, Clos Du Val Wine Co., Ltd.): The Languedoc region of southern France has long been known for aromatic and fruity wines. In this blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, Domaine de Nizas has produced a refreshing rosé with good structure and length. Tank fermented and then matured on the lees for three months, it shows a brilliant party pink color, and lovely, developed, strawberry and spice aromas with traces of watermelon. There's good fruit and balancing acidity in the finish; a charming wine that is just right for summer sipping or supping. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 17, 2008

Domaine de Nizas, Coteaux du Languedoc (France) Rose 2005 ($16, Clos du Val Wine Company): Just when I'm beginning to get down on the wines of the Languedoc I taste something the piques my interest. This fresh, crisp Rose (a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah) is dry as a bone, exhibits mineral notes and subtle red-fruit aromas and finishes clean. A great sipper, but with enough substance to handle a summer barbecue. 88 Robert Whitley Apr 4, 2006

Domaine De Nizas, Coteaux Du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) Rosé 2007 ($16):

A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, this pink wine has a beautiful pale watermelon color. It has watermelon and strawberry aromas, but despite its pretty exterior, the wine is full flavored. It was aged on the lees (the spent yeast that settles to the bottom of the tank or barrel after primary fermentation), giving the wine a full, round mouthfeel, but the wine finishes crisp and dry. 86 Tina Caputo Jun 10, 2008

Chateau La Canorgue, Cotes du Luberon (France) "Rose" 2006 ($15, Beaune Imports): Good rosé, like this one, can be both fruity and mineral laden. It can also seem ungraspable, for without being truly complex it nevertheless displays layers of interest that may be the gustatory equivalent of the glazing, scumbling, and overlaying of washes of paint that artists often use. La Camorgue Rosé imparts just this kind of impression: half obvious, half mysterious, thoroughly enjoyable. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jul 10, 2007

Domaine de Nizas, Languedoc (France) Rosé 2013 ($16, Goelet Wine Estates):

This excellent effort from Domaine de Nizas shows exceptionally fine balance based on interplay between faintly floral aromatics, fresh red fruit tones recalling cherries and wild strawberries, lip-smacking acidity, and a pleasant hint of citrus-rind bitterness that helps focus the finish. Fruity but not sweet, this will be delicious on its own but also very versatile at the table. Crafted from 40% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre. Exemplary rosé. Platinum award winner at the 2014 San Diego International Wine Competition.
93 Michael Franz Apr 15, 2014

Domaine de Nizas, Languedoc (France) Rosé 2013 ($17, Goelet Wine Estates): An unusually succulent rosé, crafted from Syrah, Grenache and M

ourvèdre, this brings both delicacy and complexity to the table. And that’s not its only magic trick: The pale pink wine also expertly and deliciously juggles fruitiness and acidity, floral notes and a breath of wild fennel. Because it’s fresh but not frivolous, this is a rosé that is just as enjoyable in cold weather as warm. To paraphrase a traditional carol: Oh the weather outside is frightful / But the rosé is so delightful….
92 Marguerite Thomas Dec 16, 2014

Hecht & Bannier, Languedoc (France) Rosé 2019 ($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):

A serious and succulent rosé, Gregory Hecht and François Bannier’s blend of grapes is dry, crisp and very food friendly. On the palate you may find hints of citrus and melon plus a flicker of dried herbs. The wine is relatively low in alcohol (12.5%). Detail focused consumers may appreciate knowing that this particular blend is composed of 40% Syrah grapes, 35% Cinsault, and 25% Grenache.
92 Marguerite Thomas May 18, 2021

Hecht & Bannier, Languedoc (France) Rosé 2023 ($18, Vineyard Brands):

Hecht & Bannier' Languedoc Rosé is nicely complex for an everyday pink, with an enjoyable blend of red and dark fruits, a little spicy, with good mouth feel and light tannins to give some definition to the finish. It classically has Syrah – 50% – and Grenache – 25% – but also 35% Cinsault.
90 Roger Morris Mar 19, 2024

The Little Sheep of France, Languedoc (France) Rosé 2020 ($11, Monsieur Touton Selection):

A minimalist wine in every sense, from price to flavor profile, this pleasant Rosé has all the hallmarks of a terrific party wine including its low price, low alcohol content (11.5%), easy-to-open screw-cap, and simple flavors. It's a pretty pink wine that adapts to a wide range of informal foods, including soups, salads and sandwiches. A blend of 85% Cabernet Franc, 8% Gamay and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, The Little Sheep of France Rosé is crisp and delicately flavored.
89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 19, 2021

Chateau La Villatade, Languedoc (France) Rosé 2007 ($12, Sober): This pale salmon tinted rosé is a blend of Syrah and Grenache that shows moderate fruit sweetness and crisp tangy acidity. The light berry aromas lead to medium fruit flavors and citrusy acidity. It finishes dry, with 13% alcohol, light fruit and a touch of bitterness. This wine needs food like grilled chicken or fish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 8, 2009

Hampton Water, Languedoc AOP (France) Rosé 2021 ($25):

This wine is popular thanks to more than its celebrity affiliations (It is a collaboration of Jon Bon Jovi, his son Jesse Bongiovi, and Gerard Bertrand). It is genuinely tasty stuff, with forward aromas and flavors of nectarine and strawberry that get a boost from notes of pepper and citrus zest. It all lingers nicely in the mouth while finishing cleanly with a floral retronasal impression. It is ready for the end of summer into fall, where you will enjoy it while squeezing every last drop of pleasure from the warm season. It contains 60% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 15% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah.
91 Rich Cook Sep 20, 2022

Château d’Oupia, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2016 ($14, Louis/Dressner Selections):

The 2016 Château d’Oupia Minervois Rosé is a juicy and lively rendition of a classic southern French rosé. A quarter century ago, André Iché set out to resurrect the vineyards and cellar of this ancient estate. Today, his daughter directs production of delicious red and rosé wines. The 2016 Minervois rosé exemplifies the delicious drinkability of Languedoc rosés. It has a forward bouquet with lovely scents of strawberry, raspberry, citrus peel, lavender and savory herbs. It is a bright and refreshing wine, with the juicy fruit flavors interwoven with floral, spice and herbal nuances. It’s perfect for sipping on its own or pairing with lighter summer fare. Blended from Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault.
89 Wayne Belding Aug 1, 2017

Château d’Oupia, Minervois Rosé (Languedoc, France) 2013 ($13, Louis Dressner Selections): Château d’Oupia, one of the most reliable producers in the Languedoc, has fashioned an engaging rosé from the usual Mediterranean blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. A deeper color than most rosé, it delivers more spice and character than you’d expect along with bright fresh acidity that lends refreshing verve. It has real body and depth, both often lacking in rosé. It’s a good choice for summertime fare with enough substance to stand up to robust seafood.
88 Michael Apstein Jun 3, 2014

Mont Gravet, Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Cinsault Rosé 2017 ($10):

The grape-growing region of southwestern France is influenced by both Atlantic and Mediterranean conditions, and by the stony soils in which the vines grow. Delicate pale pink in color, this rosé is as dry and refreshing as an ocean breeze without being bitingly austere. Discreet fruit flavors plus mouthwatering salinity and gravelly minerality add to the overall appeal. Make no mistake, despite its low price this is a serious wine, not a sweet and rosy distraction.
93 Marguerite Thomas Oct 16, 2018

Bila-Haut, Pays d’Oc (France) Rosé 2017 ($15, HB Wine Merchants):

Always a nice value in a French rosé, this Michel Chapoutier expression of Roussillon Cinsault and Grenache delivers bright cherry, strawberry, white pepper and citrus aromas and flavors in a dry style that’s sure to please. Provence isn’t the only place that’s prime for pink.
90 Rich Cook May 15, 2018

Gérard Bertrand, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) “Gris Blanc” 2019 ($14):

Grenache Gris is an old grape variety, and according to Gérard Bertrand, it is most successful in Europe. It is called Gris because the skin is neither red nor white, but pinkish and when made as a rose with the skins in contact with the juice, it makes a pale colored wine. Usually part of a blend, it gets a chance to shine in this lovely pale rosé. The grapes, purposely grown to make rosé, were hand harvested and protected from oxygen by carbon dioxide until the beginning of fermentation, preserving fresh flavors. The wine spent a few weeks resting on its lees, the expired yeast cells, for added texture. The careful attention shows in the delicate cherry, strawberry aromas and flavors that are complemented by savory, mineral, saline notes. It displays a gentle fizz emphasizing the playful acidity. It will be a great companion for fresh oysters.
92 Rebecca Murphy Aug 4, 2020

Chateau de Lancyre, Pic Saint Loup (Coteaux du Languedoc, France) "Rose" 2005 ($16, Hand Picked Selections): A blend of Syrah (50%), Grenache (40%) and Cinsault (10%), the wine is bone dry and invigorating. Ripe fruit flavors -- strawberry, cherry, raspberry -- are threaded together with tiny stitches of lavender, thyme and other Provençale hillside herbs to provide great summer quaffing. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jul 10, 2007

Château de Lancyre, Pic Saint Loup (Coteaux du Languedoc) Rosé 2011 ($16, Hand Picked Selections): Pic Saint Loup is the northernmost and coolest wine producing area within the large region of Languedoc in southwestern France. The highest peak in the region at just over 2100 feet gives its name to the region. This luscious dry rose is made of Syrah, Grenache and a bit of Carignane. Grenache’s juicy strawberry, raspberry fruit supported by with Syrah’s solid structure make a winning combination. The luscious fruit is made intriguing with herbal notes of thyme and mint. It’s a delicious rose for year-round drinking with plenty of intensity and pizzazz to stand up to a variety of salads, charcuterie and pasta dishes. 89 Rebecca Murphy Sep 11, 2012

Royal de Jarras, Sable de Camargue IGP (Languedoc, France) Grenache Gris “Pink Flamingo” Tete de Cuvée 2023 ($16, Vranken Pommery):

A very light, elegant pink with creamy yet crisp strawberry and orange flavors that is very refreshing – and has an interesting provenance. Before the 1990s, the term “Vin Gris” was used in France almost as much as Rosé for a wines that weren’t clearly made from grapes that were either white or black (the true color of the grapes that make most red wines). The name lingers on in the Camargue (yes, you’ve heard of the wild horses there), France’s answer to the Mississippi Delta with its own exotic Rhône Delta. The grape source is Grenache, specifically, a sub-variety sometimes know as Grey Grenache.
89 Roger Morris Mar 5, 2024

Laurent Miquel Pere et Fils, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Cinsault-Syrah Rosé 2009 ($11, Miquel et Fils): This is a very serious rosé at a not-too-serious price. It is very dry and taut, but not quite austere, as there are some nice suggestions of red cherry and strawberry fruit with a fresh edge of citrus acidity enlivening the finish. Pair with delicate foods. 88 Michael Franz Jul 27, 2010

Tortoise Creek, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) "Rosé d' Une Nuit" 2004 ($8, Winesellers, Ltd.): This gets the award for best name and cutest label among all the wines reviewed here, but I wouldn't include it if not for the fact that the wine is also indisputably delicious. Very fresh and direct, it features simple but penetrating aromas and flavors of strawberries and red cherries, with fine acidity and a clean, crisp finish. 85 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2005

Saint-Hilaire, Blanquette de Limoux (Languedoc, France) 2007 ($13):

As the holidays near, comfort yourself in the knowledge that you don't have to raid the treasury to drink outstanding French bubbly this year. You don't have to buy Champagne, either, though I confess that when I can afford it, Champagne is usually my preference. Blanquette de Limoux is produced in the Limoux region of southwest France, within view of the towering Pyrenees that form the northern border of Spain. As legend has it, the Benedictine monks at the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire were the first to transform still wine into bubbly with a second fermentation in the bottle in the 16th century. And they passed their secret to Dom Perignon of Champagne as the famous monk made his pilgrimage to Spain's holiest Christian shrine in Santiago de Compostela. This Blanquette is 90 percent Mauzac, 5 percent Chenin Blanc and 5 percent Chardonnay. It is creamy on the palate, while exhibiting lovely aromas of fresh citrus, apple and peach, with a hint of toasty brioche. I dare say you will not find a more delicious sparkling wine at this price anywhere, especially not in Champagne. 90 Robert Whitley Dec 7, 2010

Michèle Capdepon, Blanquette de Limoux (Languedoc, France) Brut NV ($20, Wines Of France):

The Languedoc region of France is a treasure trove for wines, from those labeled Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP, or what was formerly Vin de Pays) to more prestigious ones that carry an appellation, such as this one. Limoux, a small village in the eastern foothills of the Pyrenees, has been known for sparkling wines for centuries. It’s cooler than the remainder of the Languedoc because of its high elevation, which means the grapes, chiefly Mauzac, Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc, maintain their acidity as they ripen, imparting freshness to the wine. “Blanquette” in the local dialect means white and is also the local name for the Mauzac grape. Michèle Capdepon’s is a good example of what the appellation has to offer. A blend of Mauzac and Chardonnay, it combines the slightly exotic nature of the former with a subtle creaminess from the latter. Fresh and clean, it’s excellent as an aperitif, yet sturdy enough to pair with a simply grilled fish or a more elaborate Mediterranean fish stew.
89 Michael Apstein Mar 2, 2021

Gerard Bertrand, Cremant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) “Code Rouge Eternel” Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($28, USA Wine West):

If you are already confused by what you've read above as to color, rest assured that this white bubbly in the red bottle is worthy of your attention. A blend of Chardonnay, Chenin and Mauzac, it delivers bright pear, lemon and golden apple aromas and flavors, with a creamy texture and a crisp mouthwatering finish that will make a fine aperitif or a pairing with milder cheeses.
91 Rich Cook Sep 13, 2016

Cote Mas, Cremant de Limoux (St. Hilaire, Languedoc, France) Rosé Brut NV ($16):

Cote Mas is one of the brands under the direction of Jean-Claude Mas, who is making some of the finest wines in France’s Languedoc region these days. A blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir, this sparkling rosé combines bright red fruit notes with crisp acidity and a creamy finish. Nicely done. 90 Robert Whitley Nov 14, 2017

Cote Mas, Cremant De Limoux (St. Hilaire, Languedoc, France) Brut NV ($17):

This delightful Sparkler contains 60% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir and 10% Mauzac. The aroma profile is driven by a forward dried herb note, mixed with green apple, lemon and stony minerality. The palate is all about the apple and lemon, with notes of pear, stone and just a faint touch of herb. It’s lively, balanced and very refreshing. It was delicious with a lazy vacation breakfast!
90 Rich Cook Dec 3, 2013

Cote Mas, Cremant de Limoux (St. Hilaire, Languedoc, France) Brut NV ($16):

The Abbey at St. Hilaire is thought by many to be the birthplace of sparkling wine. It is said Dom Perignon stayed there during a pilgrimage and learned the secret of the bubbles, which he took home with him to Champagne. The traditional grape of Limoux is Mauzac, but this one is predominantly Chardonnay with small rations of Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Mauzac. It is soft on the entry, shows notes of citrus and green apple, with medium body and a medium finish. Excellent value. 88 Robert Whitley Nov 14, 2017

Côté Mas, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) NV ($17, Taub Family Selections):

Limoux, a village in the foothills of the Pyrenes in southwestern France, has a long tradition — likely longer even than Champagne — for making sparkling wines. Côté Mas, led by Jean-Claude Mas and his encompassing 15 properties covering about 2,000 acres, is one of the leading producers in the Languedoc. A masterful blend of Chardonnay (60%), Chenin Blanc (20%), Pinot Noir (10%) and Mauzac, this Crémant de Limoux is a great buy. Neither soft nor aggressive, a good spine of acidity balances subtle fruitiness. It delivers far more elegance than the price would suggest, which makes it an excellent choice as an “everyday” bubbly. I recommend keeping a couple of bottles cold for when friends drop over.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2021

Jean-Claude Mas, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) “Côté Mas M” Brut NV ($16, EDV Esprit du Vin):

Everyone I know is always looking for affordable non-Champagne sparkling wine. Crémant from France is a good place to look. Crémant, which literally means creamy, has slightly less pressure than Champagne and is made in many wine-producing areas, such as Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant d’Alsace, and this one, a Crémant de Limoux from the southwestern part of the country. A blend of Chardonnay (60%), Chenin Blanc (20%), and equal amounts of Pinot Noir and Mauzac, it’s an elegant and “friendly” style of bubbly that lives up to the category’s name -- there’s creaminess on the palate. Although it’s a good choice as a stand-alone aperitif, it has enough verve to hold up to grilled fish, cold seafood or even roast chicken. It’s an inexpensive way to turn Thursday night into something special. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2017

Aimery Sieur d’Arques, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) "Toques Clouchers" 2006 ($20, Merlin Wine): This unconventional blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac translates into a lovely combination of green apple-like flavors with a subtle creaminess. It’s a classy bright sparkling wine from a leading cooperative in the region with surprising elegance for the price. 89 Michael Apstein Jun 1, 2010

Toques Clochers, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) NV ($20, Exclusive Imports Inc.): This fresh and festive sparkling wine has lively, fine bubbles, along with a toasty aroma. It has fresh green apple flavor, and a somewhat tart finish. 88 Tina Caputo Dec 21, 2010

Vichon, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) NV ($20, Exclusive Imports Inc.): This sparkling wine from the Languedoc region has tiny pinpoint bubbles and a pleasant yeasty aroma. It has pleasant yeasty flavors with fresh green apple notes, and a clean-but-short finish. 87 Tina Caputo Dec 21, 2010

Code Rouge, Cremant de Limoux AOP (Languedoc, France) Brut Eternel, Blanc de Blancs NV ($28):

The flamboyance of vintner Gerard Bertrand shines through in this unique Cremant de Limoux. First there is the red glass bottle to get everyone's attention. Then there's what's in the bottle. This is a blanc de blancs in the truest sense of the meaning, a cuvee of three grapes, but with the indigenous mauzac in a supporting role. The primary character is chardonnay at 70 percent, with chenin blanc filling out the blend. This is a serious cremant de limoux, with the price to prove it! Showing notes of pear melon and citrus it is more complex than everyday cremant de limoux and worthy of its bold and festive packaging.
90 Robert Whitley Sep 6, 2016

Cote Mas, Cremant de Limoux AOP (Languedoc, France) Rosé Brut NV ($16, Esprit du Vin):

A boldly flavored bubbly that's big on cranberry and strawberry fruit, a leesy texture and a long, toasty finish with a pleasant bittering note, likely from 20% Chenin Blanc in the mix. It's up to brightly flavored appetizers at a price suitable for multiple holiday celebrations.
89 Rich Cook Dec 12, 2017

Cote Mas, Cremant de Limoux AOP (Languedoc, France) Brut NV ($16, Esprit du Vin):

A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac that leans into white grapefruit and lemon aromas and flavors, with a zesty finish and a touch of bitters. A festive, full-flavored and welcoming glass. 87 Rich Cook Dec 12, 2017

LVE, Languedoc (France) Sparkling Rosé NV ($20, Boisset Collection):

Musician John Legend lends his moniker to this line of wines (LVE = Legend Vineyard Exclusive) from Raymond Vineyards which is under the auspices of Jean Charles Boisset. This sparkling Rosé a fine introduction to the line, delivering dry style, soft red fruit and citrus in a crisp, understated style. Stick with the subtle side when pairing appetizers -- you don’t want to cover the nuance here.
90 Rich Cook Dec 20, 2022

Toad Hollow, Limoux (Languedoc, France) “Risque” NV ($16): This "doux" -- the sweetest sparkling wine designation -- is a great alternative to a Moscato d'Asti when you want some sweet bubbles that are more on the spiced pear side of the flavor profile. It finishes light and crisp, with a mineral note serving to cancel any cloying character. Nicely done!
89 Rich Cook Oct 25, 2016

Coté Mas, Limoux AOP (Languedoc, France) Blanquette di Limoux NV ($15): If you like sweet sparkling Moscato, give this wine a try for a pleasant variation. It's very forward in aromas of white flowers and sweet tangerine, and delivers those elements on the palate with notes of pineapple and spiced peach. It's a fresh and light dessert on its own, or pair it with angel food cake with fruit and crème.
88 Rich Cook Mar 25, 2014

HB, Coteaux du Languedoc (France) Picpoul de Pinet 2008 ($10, Kysela Pere & Fils):

Don’t feel bad if you’ve never heard of Picpoul de Pinet. Despite the fact that the region where these vines grow is the largest white wine producing area in the Languedoc (covering some 3000 acres, or 1300 hectares) Picpoul remains a foreign name to most American consumers. Part of the reason for that is that it has traditionally been used mainly as a blending grape, but well-made wines such as this one show great potential for the grape. Absolutely enjoyable and amazingly refreshing thanks to the grapes’ inherent acidity, the wine has a come-hither fragrance and lovely flavors of lime and pears as well as minerality (the vineyards stretch across a limestone plateau at the edge of a vast lagoon). It’s hard to find any above-average wine in this price range let alone one as bright and charming as this one.

Mas de Soleilla, Coteaux du Languedoc / La Clape (Languedoc, France) “Sphinx” 2008 ($19, Luxe Vintages): With its limestone soils, higher elevation, and proximity to the cooling effects of the Mediterranean, the La Clape designation is a particularly hospitable site for white wine grapes. Bourboulenc, an ancient grape of the Mediterranean, is closely identified with La Clape, where it often ripens better than in other places. When not fully ripe, Bourboulenc can be dull and sour, but when carefully cultivated it displays both good acidity and a beautifully mysterious citrusy / smoky character, as is found in this “Sphinx.” 90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 27, 2010

Chateau l'Hospitalet, Coteaux du Languedoc, La Clape (France) La Reserve 2008 ($20, USA Wine West): The La Clape district of the Coteaux du Languedoc is finally getting the overdue recognition it deserves, and was recently elevated to cru status. Though the region, on a spit of land that juts into the Mediterranean between Montpellier and Narbonne, is most well known for its reds, whites such as this uncommon blend are hardly a surprise. The primary grape is Bourboulenc (40%) with the rest evenly divided between Grenache blanc and Vermentino. The flavors and aromas are a rich and seductive mix of stone fruits, tropical, floral spice. Even a subtle whiff of honey. The wine is well balanced at 13.5 alcohol, with soft acids and a faint wood aroma. Serve this with meaty or oily grilled fish, or as an aperitif with Mediterranean appetizers. 91 Robert Whitley Oct 26, 2010

Cave de Pomerols, Côteaux du Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc, France) “HB” 2011 ($10, Kysela Pere & Fils, Ltd.): This is the perfect oyster wine. Its grapefruit, lime zest aromas with dusty mineral notes lead you to think that the wine will be very lean, yet in the mouth the fruit is rich and round with pineapple, citrus flavors that finish with decisively mouthwatering acidity. It is light bodied, altogether refreshing, and comes at an attractive price. Picpoul de PInet is a sub zone of the Côteaux du Languedoc, which on future labels will be Languedoc AOC. It is a white wine region featuring the ancient grape piquepoul, meaning “lipstinger.” Cave de Pomerols is a cooperative of 320 members that control 1976 acres in the appellation and Pomerols is one of six wine producing communes in the Picpoul de Pinet region. 89 Rebecca Murphy Sep 18, 2012

Cave de Florensac, Côtes de Thau (Languedoc, France) Picquepoul & Terret Blanc “L’Arete” 2022 ($15, Grape Expectations):

Florensac is one of the oldest vineyard sites on the Mediterranean. The co-op, les Vignerons de Florensac, has 260 growers members, and this wine bears the Cotes de Thau IGP appellation which is located very close to the sea. It is an unusual blend of Picquepoul (55%) and Terret Blanc (45%) and was sur lees aged in stainless steel for 3 months. Light straw in color, it charms you with its white peach and citrus aroma, and the flavors are lively and add a hint of stone fruit and minerality. It is medium bodied and smooth, with good acid balance. But it counters Picquepoul’s notorious lip stinging finish with persistent gentle lemony aftertaste. I have liked this Cave’s Picpoul de Pinet, but this blend is a more complete and food-friendly refreshing white.
92 Norm Roby Mar 19, 2024

Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon (Languedoc, France) “Les Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2013 ($13, H. B. Wine Merchants): Chapoutier, one of the great Rhône producers, has expanded into the Languedoc with a terrific trio of wines, a white, a red and a rosé, from the Côtes du Roussillon appellation. This crisp and refreshing white has a surprising lift that balances and enhances the subtle stone fruit character. It’s evidence that whites from the south of France needn’t be heavy. This well-priced white works equally well as a stand-alone aperitif or as an accompaniment to grilled fish or sautéed chicken breasts.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 14, 2014

Maison des Terroirs Vivants, IGP Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay “La Marouette” 2012 ($14, The Organic Wine Company): Maison des Terroirs Vivants is one of the leading producers of organic wines in the Languedoc. They have an uncanny ability to find and bottle pristine wines and sell them at extraordinary prices. This Chardonnay has an engaging note of pineapple without being tropical or overdone. Invigorating acidity keeps it fresh. With so many insipid Chardonnays available in this price range, this is an unbelievable value.
87 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2013

Virgile Joly, Languedoc (France) “Le Joly Blanc!” 2017 ($20):

Though the Languedoc may be best known for its red wines, the whites have gotten better. Take this one, for example. Surprisingly fresh and lively for its southern origins, it delivers lovely weight and texture. It’s a blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne that conveys a hint of stone fruit flavors with a lovely citrus tang. Its lively essence allows you to enjoy it as a stand-alone sipper and with reasonably weighty seafood.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2019

Gérard Bertrand, Languedoc (France) Sauvignon Blanc “Côte des Roses” 2019 ($17):

The Languedoc region of southern France is not a place where you would expect to find a tasty, crisp Sauvignon Blanc, but leave it to Gérard Bertrand to do just that. He envisioned a style between Sancerre and Marlborough. To accomplish this vision, he had to get grapes from two very different terroirs. The riper, rounder style came from a warm area near the Mediterranean Sea. The leaner style came from vines in a cooler climate, with a long growing season close to Carcassonne, the ancient walled, fortified city. It is a refreshing wine with lemon zest, grapefruit and melon aromas. In the mouth, deliciously zesty flavors of melon, grapefruit, peach and a whisper of vanilla are lifted by mouthwatering acidity. Enjoy it with grilled shrimp or a caprese salad. The wine comes in the beautiful bottle with the rose on its base that was created for the Côtes des Roses Rosé.
90 Rebecca Murphy Aug 4, 2020

Laurent Miquel, Languedoc (France) Viognier “Vérité” 2009 ($25, Miquel & Fils): Graceful and precise in every way, Vérité has white peach and apricot perfume, but overall a more delicate floral aroma than what we’ve come to think of as typical Viognier. It is also less viscous in the mouth, offering instead a vivacious and complex character. Elegant, inviting and food-friendly, this is a highly recommendable Viognier. 90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 23, 2012

Hecht et Bannier, Languedoc (France) 2011 ($12, Frederick Wildman): The vast majority of wines from the Languedoc are red. But Hecht et Bannier has managed to find growers who make fresh and lively whites. A blend of Piquepoul (80%), which provides invigorating freshness, and Roussanne, which adds body, it’s a pleasant surprise, coming from this warm part of France. It would be a good foil for sushi. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012

Domaine Paul Mas, Limoux Blanc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay "Arrogant Frog" 2011 ($9, Palm Bay International): Despite the name, I must recommend this Chardonnay because it delivers more than the price suggests. Most Chardonnays at this price are clumsy and slightly sweet. Paul Mas, one of the region’s notable négociants, has made one that’s clean and fresh, with a delicate creaminess atop its tart apple-like fruitiness. Buy it by the case for summertime drinking.
87 Michael Apstein Apr 16, 2013

Domaine du Poujol, Pays D’Hérault IGP (Languedoc, France) Carignan Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2014 ($16, Ideal Wines & Spirits):

Phil Minervino, one of the owners of a Newton Lower Falls Wines, a jewel of a wine shop outside of Boston, and a superb taster, recommended this somewhat obscure wine to me. As he said, “No one comes in asking for Carignan Blanc.” They should now. This one from Domaine du Poujol has the lush stone fruit flavors and texture of a Mediterranean or southern Rhone white, balanced by a spice and vibrancy that sets it apart from many wines of that ilk. While robust enough to stand up to grilled tuna, it has sufficient energy and verve to cut through August's heat and humidity. Frankly, it would also be a welcome choice at Thanksgiving so don’t pigeonhole it to a summer fling -- it’s far more serious wine than that.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2016

Georges Duboeuf, Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay 2017 ($12, Quintessential):

Georges DuBoeuf, whose name is synonymous with Beaujolais and Flower Bottles, is expanding yet again to the south of France. He’s no stranger to Chardonnay, bottling some excellent examples from closer to home in the Mâconnais, such as a delightful Mâcon-Villages and an even more up-scale Pouilly Fuissé. My guess is that he’s now looking for a less expensive source of grapes for a more affordable tier of wines. This pleasant Chardonnay, good for sipping, focuses on the fruity character of the grape. Unless a few extra dollars would break your budget, I’d advise consumers to look for his Mâcon-Villages.
86 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2018

Chanmé Méchant, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Grenache Blanc 2019 ($20, Penrose Hill):

Imagine a sugarless honeydew melon and you’ll have a great idea what this bottle has to offer. It’s quite delicate on the nose, with soft melon and floral aromas. The palate entry is equally soft, but the flavor comes on brightly, with little or no new oak interference that allows the fruit to speak clearly. Importer Penrose Hill is gaining a reputation as a solid outfit. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
94 Rich Cook Apr 20, 2021

Le Grand Noir, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay 2020 ($12):

A beautifully honeyed nose is the calling card here, likely enhanced by a healthy dose of Viognier in the mix. Minimal barrel influence keeps things fresh, and my crisp and creamy indicator bells are ringing. It’s a budget friendly sipper that will suit simple salads sublimely. Contains 15% Viognier. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.
93 Rich Cook Feb 2, 2021

Domaine Paul Mas, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay Saint Hilaire Vineyard Réserve 2019 ($17, Mas Imports):

For a brief moment, this wine tiptoes onto the palate with a light tread, before the flavors explode like a wine piñata showering the taste buds with rich, bright fruit. The finish is long and restorative. Domaine Paul Mas was created in 1990 by Jean-Claude Mas who named it after his father. The family has been making wine in this region for more than a hundred years.
92 Marguerite Thomas Dec 15, 2020

Saint-Peyre, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Viognier 2020 ($14, Ideal Wine & Spirits):

Do your friends keep circling back to creamy Chardonnay, tempting you to expand their horizon? Look no further. This creamy Viognier displays both tree and tropical fruit and will wow the socks off your friends. This is the sort of $14 wine that the consultant at your local wine shop recommends to you because it’s what she enjoyed last night.
92 Vince Simmon Apr 12, 2022

Marius by Michel Chapoutier, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Vermentino 2021 ($13):

Named after his great grandfather, Michael Chapoutier offers “Marius” as an introduction to French wines. That is wines that are true to their Southern France origins, and are priced within everyone’s budget. So while most of us associate Vermentino with Italian wines, it is widely planted in Provence, the southern Rhône Valley, and the Languedoc. For “Marius,” the winery combines Vermentino with a dollop of Terret. Each is separately vinified, and then the blend is aged sur lies for 5 months. The wine is a pale straw color with a green tinge and its youthful aroma displays lime, stone fruit and floral notes. Medium bodied with a smooth, inviting texture, it had lots of citrus flavors with some minerality mixed in. Pleasant, dry finish. Hard to beat for the price!
91 Norm Roby Dec 27, 2022

Haut-Blanville, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay Reserve 2018 ($18, Cape Classics):

This soft and serene Chardonnay is an easy sipping wine that offers fruit (baked apple, apricot, orange zest) and light floral nuances as well as delicate suggestions of cinnamon and other sweet baking spice. The addition of 5% Roussanne to the blend subtly broadens the contour of both texture and flavor. The Chardonnay was formed in stainless steel tanks while the Roussanne was fully fermented in lightly toasted French barrels and aged a month on its lees. Haut-Blanville does not use commercial fertilizers or herbicides, relying instead on small doses of copper and sulfur.
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 17, 2020

Racine, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay 2017 ($15):

An easy to like Chardonnay from a new shop at home program called Wine Insiders, and like a lot of their portfolio, there’s good value here. Crisp acidity carries apple and pear flavors with gentle oak spice through a refreshing finish. Quite tasty! A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Monterey International Wine Competition.
90 Rich Cook Mar 12, 2019

Gerard Bertrand, Pays d'Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Sauvignon Blanc “Perles” 2015 ($17, USA Wine West): An explosive glass of lemon, peach and wintermint aromas that entice you to drink, and the promise is delivered on the palate, with a creamy entry, lively acidity and a long, refreshing finish. Perfect summer's end wine at a price that will make you wish summer makes it to December.
90 Rich Cook Sep 13, 2016

Cave d’ Esclans, Pays d'Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Sauvignon Blanc ”La Poule Blanche” 2020 ($14):

Sacha Lichine learned the trade at his family’s Bordeaux property, Chateau Prieure-Lichine and later went out on his own as a negociant. In that role, he began working with Bordeaux wines but eventually focused on wines from Burgundy and the Rhône. In 2006 he acquired Château d’Esclans in Provence, and quickly built that brand into a major rosé powerhouse. It’s a challenge today to find a retailer that doesn’t stock Whispering Angel. He also offers an entry level rosé, red, and this white. This 2020 is 100% Sauvignon, with 20% aged briefly in small oak. It is an all-purpose version with a fresh aroma of apple and a hint of lime. Medium bodied and well balanced, it has pleasant fruity flavors and enough acidity to be enjoyable as an aperitif or with light entrees.
88 Norm Roby Mar 7, 2023

Hugues Beaulieu / Kysela Père et Fils, Picpoul de Pine (Languedoc, France) 2019 ($9, Kysela Père et Fils):

It’s tough to figure out who is the producer of this wine. The importer’s name, Kysela Père et Fils, figures prominently on the front label above the letters HB. It turns out that the HB stands for Hugues Beaulieu, a co-operative which also carries the name Les Costières de Pomérols. Whether this bottling is a special selection by Kysela Père et Fils is unclear to me. What’s important is to remember the HB or the name of the co-op because, judging from this wine, they do an excellent job. The name of the grape, actually Picquepoul, which literally means "lip-stinger," has morphed to Picpoul, and is one of the few AOC wines of France outside of Alsace to carry varietal labeling. Crisp and clean, with a distinct saline-infused character, you can almost sense the proximity of the ocean. This lightweight white, sometimes called the Muscadet of the south, is perfect for seafood — steamed or fried clams, seafood stew, sautéed scallops. You get the idea. Plus it is a great bargain.
90 Michael Apstein May 25, 2021

Paul Mas Estate, Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc, France) 2009 ($13, Palm Bay Imports): The Paul Mas Picpoul is a spectacular effort in this price range. The wine is positively delicious, showing an exotic combination of tropical fruits, ripe pear and citrus, with mineral notes and firm acidity. With a fair amount of richness and viscosity on the palate, this is a Picpoul that can carry itself with grilled fish and savory tapas as well as fresh oysters, its traditional companion. 91 Robert Whitley Oct 12, 2010

Cave De Pomerols, Picpoul De Pinet (Languedoc, France) 2016 ($11, Kysela Pere et Fils):

A nice clean aperitif wine, or one to pair with seafood or gently prepared chicken dishes. Melon, citrus, bay leaf and stony mineral aromas and flavors are creamy in the midpalate and finish crisply, setting you up for your next bite or sip. Worth seeking out! 89 Rich Cook Nov 14, 2017

Cave de Pomerols, Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc, France) 2016 ($11):

The beauty of Picpoul, besides the fact that it is fresh and crisp and generally tasty, is that it's easy on the wallet. When you don't necessarily need profound and simply yummy and refreshing will do, Picpoul is the ticket. This vintage from Caves de Pomerol shows lovely melon/citrus/lime notes, mouth-watering acidity and a zesty finish. 88 Robert Whitley Nov 7, 2017

Ornezon , Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc, Franc) 2020 ($13, Casa Bruno Imports):

Picpoul is widely grown in the South of France, and the grape and wine are now getting considerable attention from some of the Rhône Ranger folks in the USA. Roughly translated as “lip stinger,” Picpoul is definitely lively and loaded with zippy acidity. Ornezon is produced by the Vignerons de Flornesac, and its 2020 is medium bodied and delivers fresh citrus, green apple flavors with a touch of minerality coming through in the finish. Picpoul de Pinet became an official AOC in 2013 and is widely exported, with over 50% reaching the UK. It asks to be paired with oysters, mussels, and other fresh, tasty things from the sea.
88 Norm Roby Aug 2, 2022

Domaine de Montredon, Picpoul de Pinet AOC (Languedoc, France) 2018 ($15):

Picpoul de Pinet is a name to remember for lively and taut white wines. Made exclusively from the Picpoul grape, which literally means “stings the lip” because of its high acidity, it’s a perfect choice for the heat and humidity of summer. Along with its freshness, Domaine de Montredon’s (no relation to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer) provides good weight and concentration so that it’s not just an acid shell, but holds up well against grilled fish. A big plus is the price. Buy it by the case for this summer’s seafood.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2019

Montagnac Domitienne, Picpoul de Pinet AOC (Languedoc, France) "M" 2020 ($15, Jeff Welburn Selections):

If you like crisp, citrusy white wines, you will love, or maybe you already love Picpoul de Pinet. This one from a cooperative winery with over 40 growers is bright crisp and fresh with juicy lemony flavors with saline notes and electrical acidity. The area in the Languedoc region of southwestern France where a tangy, crisp white wine made from the Piquepoul Blanc (also known as Picpoul) grape is home of the Étang de Thau. This a salt water lagoon near the Mediterranean Sea where the Picpoul grape survived the invasion of the phylloxera root louse that nearly destroyed the vineyards of Europe. Turns out the louse doesn’t like water. This lagoon also is home to oysters and mussels, the perfect food match for Picpoul.
90 Rebecca Murphy Aug 31, 2021

Vignerons de la Vicomte, Vicomte d’Aumelas IGP (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay “Fontaniels” 2018 ($13, Five Grapes LLC):

Inexpensive and nicely made, with a relatively low amount of alcohol and bright, flavorful fruit flavors, “Fontaniels” is a good choice when you’re seeking an informal, low-cost, easygoing white wine. This Chardonnay comes from a large co-operative winery, the Vignerons de la Vicomté, whose vineyards cover a substantial amount of land in this part of southern France. The region’s soils are mostly vine-friendly chalk and limestone, and the generally hot, dry weather is moderated by the Hérault River. This terroir is about 12 miles west of Montpelier.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 1, 2021

Domaine des Salices, Vin de Pay d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Viognier 2009 ($13, Vintus Imports): Domaine des Salices, another François Lurton estate, makes a lovely array of wines from the Languedoc region in the southwest of France. Taking advantage of the looser regulations of the Vin de Pays designation (as opposed to the stricter appellation controllée rules), they sell the wines using varietal names. This Viognier captures all of the engaging subtle honeysuckle aspects of the grape without being heavy and alcoholic. Not overdone, this lively wine is a good choice for celebrating the Year of the Dragon. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2012

Gérard Bertrand, Vin de Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) “Cigalus” 2009 ($40, USA Wine West): One of the exciting things about the Vin de Pays wines is the flexibility the producer has compared to the rigid regulations of an Appellation d’origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine. With Cigalus, Gérard Bertrand has made the unconventional blend of Chardonnay (80%), Viognier (15%) and Sauvignon Blanc that works to create a stylish white wine. Each varietal speaks, but none dominates. Floral notes from Viognier merge with the richness of Chardonnay and a healthy, but not overpowering, dose of toasty new oak. The pungency and bracing acidity or Sauvignon Blanc keeps it lively throughout a meal. It’s a wine for drinking, not just tasting. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012

Domaine Miquel, Vin de Pays d’Oc (Lanfuedoc, France) Viognier 2005 ($16, Frederick Wildman): It's difficult to find Viognier that isn't expensive but that smells and tastes legitimately of the varietal. This one, while not as rich on the palate as one might like, still delivers a fresh floral bouquet, followed by appealing peach and melon fruit flavors. Given its reasonable price tag, it's a good buy. 87 Paul Lukacs Jan 23, 2007

Laurent Miquel Père et Fils, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay – Viognier 2009 ($11, Miquel et Fils): A blend of 65% Chardonnay and 35% Viognier, this is very impressive regardless of price, though the price is amazingly low in relation to the wine’s quality. Medium-bodied, it is substantial but still quite fresh, with notes of ripe apple and peach showing very nice purity without seeming overly simple. Light floral accents lend aromatic interest, and the wine finishes with a refreshing streak of acidity. 89 Michael Franz Jun 22, 2010

Domaine de Nizas, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) “Mas Blanc” 2008 ($14, Clos du Val Wine Co.): A super spring and summer sipper, this wine has the richness of apricots and peaches, but also the refreshing crispness that Sauvignon Blanc’s dominance brings to the blend. The Sauvignon Blanc is grown on old vines (planted 1971), which helps to explain the unusual complexity of the fruit flavors in this thoroughly enjoyable white wine. 88 Marguerite Thomas Apr 20, 2010

Jean-Luc Colombo, Vin de Pays d'Oc (France) Viognier "La Violette" 2004 ($12, Palm Bay Imports): Jean-Luc Colombo, one of the Rhône Valley's most respected producers, also makes many wines throughout southern France. The easy-drinking 2004 'La Violette' has floral aromas, with suggestions of ripe peach and lychee fruit. It has medium acidity, 12.5% alcohol, and rich, fruity flavors--especially peach and apricot--that are the typical signposts of this very aromatic variety. A wine to drink now. 88 Ed McCarthy Jun 27, 2006

Zette, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) "Zette White" 2007 ($12, Frederick Wildman): Spring is coming, and this blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Viognier is surely the wine with which to welcome the season. Aromatic and supple, it engages the senses with its fresh overtones of apricot and pineapple. Zette White doesn't need a lot of deep thought and analysis--just pour yourself a glassful and revel in life's simple pleasures. 88 Marguerite Thomas Mar 24, 2009

Les Jamelles, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($9, Cellar Door Selections): Simple but very clean and fresh, this wine shows lots of zingy acidity and just a little grassy, citrus character to help us remember what grape we're working with. Although it is a bit lacking in varietal character, it tastes very good at an impressively approachable price, and shows lots of freshness, lift and acidic structure. 84 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2006

Les Jamelles, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay 2005 ($9, Cellar Door Selections): This is a bit softer and rounder than the 2005 Sauvignon from Les Jamelles, which is about the only way that I would have known the grape variety. With more acidity and far less oak than most comparable Chardonnays at this price level, this is not a cookie-cutter rendition, and that is all to the good. 83 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2006

Zette, Vin de Pays d'Oc (France) 2007 ($12, Frederick Wildman): A decent everyday white blend -- Chardonnay and Viognier -- from the Languedoc at an attractive price. It's fresh and clean, and the Viognier adds a hint of honey on the nose, and brings notes of peach and apricot on the palate. 80 Robert Whitley Oct 7, 2008

Sur le Pont, Vin Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc, France) Viognier 2017 ($18, Wine Circle):

A grape native to France’s northern Rhône Valley, plantings of Viognier have spread across the world’s vineyards in the past few decades. With aromas tending toward floral as is the norm for classic Viognier this pleasing white wine delivers a reasonably complex taste profile suggesting stone fruits (peaches, apricots, plums) burnished by a hint of tangerine. The wine rolls easily across the palate and leaves a subtle oily sensation on the tongue that is typical of Viognier, and it finishes with just enough acidity to keep it pleasantly refreshing. Sur le Pont Viognier is an excellent aperitif, and it is an adaptable white wine to serve with such things as grilled sausages, roast chicken and pasta carbonara.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 13, 2020

Chateau Haut-Monplaisir, Cahors (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) "Pur Plaisir" 2002 ($45, Vintage '59 Imports): Roy Cloud, the very capable importer of this wine, has been bugging me (good naturedly) to taste this wine after seeing me write admiringly about Malbecs from Mendoza. He was right to do so, and now I'm strongly inclined to bug you to taste it as well. It is rich and ripe and soft, with quite dark color and excellent depth of fruit, yet it shows full ripeness without showing the overt sweetness that mars many Argentine Malbecs. Oak is notably present but not overbearing, and indeed it lends some welcome structure. Given how well this performs even when made from the iffy 2002 vintage, I can only imagine how impressive it might prove from the 2005 growing season. 89 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2006

Chateau Haut-Monplaisir, Cahors (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) "Prestige" 2002 ($19, Vintage '59 Imports): Argentina has captured the world's attention with its renditions of Malbec, but the current releases from Chateau Haut-Monplaisir suggest strongly that France is not content to concede international primacy. Both this bottling and its big brother, 'Pur Plaisir,' show great color and concentration that are more than a little suprising given their 2002 vintage dates. Although this wine doesn't have quite the heft or the oak bracing of the Pur Plaisir, I found it very nearly as good in critical terms and even a bit better integrated and more harmonious with food. Dark berry fruit is the lead note, but you'll also find a distinct minerality that marks this-very aggreeably-as an Old World wine. 88 Michael Franz Sep 19, 2006

Col des Vents, Corbières (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) 2007 ($13, Kysela): Although this wine gets off to a fairly slow start, it opens quite

impressively with aeration, showing nice savory accents atop a core of dark berry fruit that shows a pleasant but subtle sweetness. Delicate tannins are well measured to the weight of the fruit, making this a versatile choice for more robust poultry dishes or lighter meats. 89 Michael Franz Jun 30, 2009

Luc Pirlet, Corbières AOP (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) 2020 ($11, Silver Lake Imports):

Luc Pierlet’s Appellation D’Origine Protégée series focuses on making wines true to their terroir. His Corbières is excellent. It threads the needle between earthy and fruity characteristics. The wine pairs easily with food and has no harsh edges. At $11, you should buy two bottles. One for yourself to try ahead of sharing the second.
89 Vince Simmon Aug 9, 2022

Château Peuch Haut, Coteaux du Languedoc St. Drézéry (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) 2011 ($18, European Cellars):

Languedoc-Roussillon red wines rank among the best values of all. At their best, they can combine an enchanting range of fruit, floral, earth, herb and spice nuances. The 2011 Château Peuch Haut from the village of St. Drézéry definitely exhibits these attractive characteristics. Made from old-vine Grenache (55%) and Syrah (45%) grapes, it offers a luscious combination of juicy ripe fruit, sun-baked herbs, flowers and spices. The bouquet reveals luscious black cherry, strawberry and blackcurrant fruits backed by hints of lavender, thyme and cinnamon. On the palate, the layers of ripe black cherry, strawberry and blackcurrant fruit are enhanced by the exotic floral, herb and spice tones. The Château Peuch Haut offers a rich flavor and a fine balance that bodes well for further development.
92 Wayne Belding Sep 29, 2015

Château de Caladroy, Côtes du Rousillon Villages (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) “Cuvée les Schistes” 2004 ($13, Vintage '59 Imports): This lovely, Rhône-styled red blend (Syrah, Carignan, Grenache and Mourvedre) from the Côtes du Rousillon tastes simultaneously robust and sophisticated, a compelling combination. It offers plenty of dark fruit flavor, along with echoes of pepper, leather and spice. But it integrates them so successful and seamlessly that it tastes almost lithe. Drinking it something like watching a fine dancer; you can sense the muscle and strength, but all you see is grace and delicacy. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2007

M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (France) “Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2017 ($14):

It should come as no surprise that Michel Chapoutier, one of the star producers in the Rhône Valley, can make lip-smacking, good wine elsewhere. In this case, the elsewhere is across the Rhône, further west in the south of France in Roussillon. This delightful blend of the usual Mediterranean suspects, Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, delivers a touch of everything--delicate fruitiness and spicy herbal notes. Savory elements are a welcome counterpoint. Still, the wine’s main attraction is its balance -- everything speaks, while nothing shouts. Its supple without being flabby. Another good choice when there’s meat on the grill this summer. It’s a tremendous value.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2019

Chateau de Caladroy, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Rousillon, France) “Cuvée Les Schistes” 2004 ($12, Vintage '59 Imports): You might be able to find a wine offering more flavor and fun in a stylish package than this for twelve bucks, but I'd bet against it. Blended from Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre, it is medium-bodied, soft in texture, and intensely aromatic and flavorful. Red cherry notes from the Grenache are quite prominent, but every sniff and sip brings out another nuance that keeps this wine enduringly interesting. 88 Michael Franz Jan 30, 2007

Hecht & Bannier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) Grenache/ Syrah/ Carignan 2006 ($25, Frederick Wildman): Juicy and ripe, with exciting gamy undertones that add complexity, but also slightly heavy on the palate, this is a new-styled southern French red, marked by heady extraction. Tasting distinctive but not eccentric, it should appeal to many contemporary red wine drinkers, and would be a fine restaurant by-the-glass pour. 88 Paul Lukacs Jun 15, 2010

Domaine de l'Edre, Côtes du Roussillon-Villages (France) Carrément Rouge 2017 ($19, Grape Expectations):

From a domaine established in 2002, this is one impressive wine with more depth and flavor concentration than one normally encounters from this appellation. I visited and wrote about Roussillon in 2002 and have been a follower ever since. Made from 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 15% Carignan, and 5% Mourvedre, this wine which was stainless steel fermented and not aged in oak has a lot going on. With aeration, blackberry fruit, spice and anis compete for attention, and on the palate it is plush and savory with some Syrah meatiness and pepper accompanying the ripe plum flavors. Fun to taste and enjoy in its youthful state, it will gain greater harmony with 3+ years of cellaring.
92 Norm Roby Jun 22, 2021

Laurent Miquel, Faugères (Languedoc-Roussilon, France) “L’Artisan” 2010 ($17, Miquel et Fils):

This wine (a blend of Syrah 80%, Grenache 20%) offers further proof that Laurent Miquel is one of Southern France’s most reliable wine producers. The body is refreshingly lean but there is enough lusty fruit and soft tannins to provide plenty of flavor and character. Because it is relatively restrained this will be an excellent wine to enjoy as temperatures soar this summer, especially if its chilled down ever so slightly before serving.
90 Marguerite Thomas May 21, 2013

Chateau L'Hospitalet, La Clape (Languedoc-Rousillon, France) La Reserve 2009 ($20):

This is my first exceptional value wine of 2012. It's what's known as a GSM blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. This wine exhibits rich, sensuous textures with supple tannins and layered blackberry and black raspberry fruit. La Clape is a small spit of land that juts into the Mediterranean (eons ago it was once an island unto itself) southeast of Narbonne in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. It was once a sub-appellation of the Coteaux du Languedoc, but last year was elevated to AOC Grand Cru status, a long overdue and well deserved promotion in vineyard rank. Chateau L'Hospitalet is the centerpiece of proprietor Gerard Bertrand's impressive wine empire that spans the entire Languedoc-Roussillon region.

Château L’Hospitalet, La Clape AOC (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) “Grand Vin” 2018 ($35, Gerard Bertrand):

While the grape varieties for this wine are Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, the Grenache fruit is what got my attention. It is up front and juicy, luscious, and delectable, with strawberry, black cherry fruit and a touch of Syrah’s black pepper. Mourvedre contributes cassis, black fruit and rich mouthfeel. Heady aromatics are contributed by garrigue, the local herbal mélange of woody plants including lavender, thyme and rosemary. Serve it with a grilled steak. By way of background, La Clape is a unique AOC within of the much larger Languedoc AOC in the south of France. Located about four miles from the Mediterranean Sea south of the city of Narbonne, several hundred years ago it was a Roman island. The estate of Château L’Hospitalet, includes a winery, hotel, two restaurants and the headquarters of Gérard Bertrand, wine producer and négociant. In total, Bertrand owns and manages 2100 acres of biodynamically farmed vineyards across 15 family-owned estates in the South of France. He considers the region an ideal place to farm organically and biodynamically because of the proximity of the sea and the area winds that the help dry the vines after spring rains preventing diseases.
96 Rebecca Murphy Aug 11, 2020

Château Bas-d’Aumelas, Languedoc AOP (Languedoc - Roussillon, France) “Barathym” 2017 ($9):

This straightforward, fruity, delightful wine perhaps does not deserve 90 points, but it gets extra credit for value. A blend of Grenache (70%) and Carignan, this fresh and lively red delivers a balanced array of red fruit flavors, spice and herbal elements. This light red is perfect in the summer when you need something more substantial than a rosé. The tannins are barely perceptible so it would be good chilled when you grilling burgers. (You may see the family name of the owners, D’Albenas, on the label rather than the official name of the château.)
90 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018

Chateau Coupe Roses, Minervois (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) "Granaxa" 2007 ($24, Vintage ’59 Imports): Named after the local dialect’s term for Grenache, this wine’s juicy,

winning profile is drawn from that variety along with a little Syrah. Although it is notably dark and rich in appearance and feel, there is a juiciness and playfulness that makes the wine seem as much feminine as masculine. The soft texture of the tannins would make this a great choice for moderately robust dishes with some spiciness in the preparation to work with the exuberance of the red and black cherry notes. 91 Michael Franz Nov 30, 2010

Chateau Coupe Roses, Minervois (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) "Cuvee Vignals" 2007 ($20, Vintage ’59 Imports): This is a seriously appealing wine that will be admirably versatile thanks to a combination of soft structure but expressive aromas and flavors. It is comprised of Syrah and Grenache with a little Carignan, and the fruit notes offer suggestions of both black and red fruits, with almost no overt wood notes intruding on the wine’s appealing fruit. The flavors are quite persistent and the finish is balanced and very pleasant.
90 Michael Franz Nov 30, 2010

Chateau Coupe Roses, Minervois (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) "La Bastide" 2008 ($14, Vintage ’59 Imports):

This entry-level release from Chateau Coupe Roses shows appealing aromas and flavors that feature red fruit notes but show some suggestions of dark berries as well. Blended from old vine Carignan and Grenache, it is medium-bodied and soft in structure but still firm enough to work well with red meat dishes as well as white meats like pork or veal. 88 Michael Franz Nov 30, 2010

Domaine D’Aupilhac, Montpeyroux Languedoc (Languedoc - Roussillon, France) “Les Cocalières” 2016 ($26, Kermit Lynch):

Consumers need to learn more seemingly obscure geographic names. Wine regulators in the Languedoc have identified 34 sub-regions, six of which no longer carry even Languedoc on the label and are referred to as cru, that produce more distinctive wines. Another 28, such as Montpeyroux, are allowed to put their name on the label. This system is analogous to the hierarchy in the Rhône Valley, so think of Montpeyroux as equivalent, at least in pedigree, to one of named Côtes du Rhône-Villages. Although potentially confusing to the consumer, the quality in the bottle, at least for this wine, which stands head and shoulders above most wines labeled just Languedoc, makes understanding the system worthwhile. Domaine D’Aupilhac, one of the top producers in the region, uses the typical trio of Mediterranean grapes, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, for this single vineyard bottling. The vineyard sits at about 1000 feet above sea level and faces northwest, both of which mitigate against over ripeness in the grapes. The wine conveys both power and herbal earthy notes. What’s amazing is its great freshness that imbues a liveliness often missing in wines from the south of France. Quite suave and refined, I can’t think of a better match for grilled leg of lamb this summer.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018

Calandrelle, Pays d’Herault IGP (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Carignan Vielles Vignes 2019 ($18, Wine Insiders):

Just another beauty from the south of France. This Carignan is smooth, supple and juicy, a spicy red with smooth tannins and a long, savory finish. A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Robert Whitley Sep 15, 2020

Le Fat Bastard, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Pinot Noir 2020 ($12, Winebow):

Nothing is more fun than happening upon a twelve dollar Pinot Noir that I can recommend wholeheartedly. This stood out as an outlier in a blind flight of otherwise domestic offerings, and while it didn’t outshine wines at five times its modest retail price, it held its own with cherry and raspberry fruit, earthy minerality and Sud du France character. The cheeky packaging is a plus for parties. The Chardonnay was good as well — review coming soon.
90 Rich Cook Sep 6, 2022

Le Fat Bastard, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Pinot Noir 2020 ($12, Winebow):

The story of the name of this wine is of two friends, Thierry and Guy, who collaborated on wine projects. Thierry (the experienced French winemaker) was showing Guy (the British wine rebel) the result of an experiment with a wine that was left on its lees, the expired yeast cells from fermentation. They were both happily surprised at the result, and Guy — speaking in a French accent — called it a “fat bastard.” They both agreed, and a brand was born. This is a very likable wine with a dark ruby color, forward black cherry and raspberry fruit spiked with dried roses balanced with palate cleaning acidity, and finishing with ripe, smooth tannins.
90 Rebecca Murphy Aug 9, 2022

Gerard Bertrand, Tautavel (Cotes du Roussillon Villages) 'Grand Terroir' 2007 ($20, USA Wine West):

The sturdy reds of Roussillon have been a well-kept secret, only being revealed now because of the world's hunger for exceptional wines at affordable prices. Gerard Bertrand's Tautavel (a small village in the south of France between the Pyrenees and the sea and close to the border with Spain) is a beautiful example of the quality to be found in the region. This blend of Grenache (50 percent) Syrah and Carignan is full-bodied, exhibits ripe aromas of blackcurrant and black cherry, spice, grainy tannins and good acid balance. Outstanding with roasted meats and winter stews. 92 Robert Whitley Oct 12, 2010

Fracture, Vin de Pays Côtes Catalanes (Languedoc - Roussillon, France) Grenache “Shatter” 2011 ($29, USA Wine West): The label says it all. This bombastic Grenache-based wine is massive and intense, but it not hot or rough, carrying, as Grenache often does, its 15.9% stated alcohol remarkably well. For all its ripeness, it actually has a pleasantly bitter, not sweet, finish. It would be perfect with a garlic-infused roasted leg or lamb or long braised short ribs. You’d be hard pressed to find a food that will overpower this wine. It will shatter you.
87 Michael Apstein May 7, 2013

Mas Carlot, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) Cabernet/Syrah 2003 ($15, Robert Kacher Selections): This delicious wine should turn the tables and place a lot of Australian vintners on notice that southern France can produce Cab/Syrah blends that show comparable power to the Aussie versions (at least in 2003) with a lot more dimension and finesse. Authentically full-bodied but not over-ripe or pruny, this shows excellent concentration and depth but also real purity and poise. Blackberry is the lead fruit note, with accents of woodsmoke, spices, dried herbs and tobbaco leaf lending added interest. Robust but not astringent, the structure, texture and wood are all very symmetrically matched to the character of the fruit. 90 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2006

Red Bicyclette, Vin de Pays d'Oc (France) Syrah 2004 ($10, Red Bicyclette, USA): I was prepared not to like this wine because of its cutesy name and label, but in fact, it is a pleasant, high value, southern French red wine. Plummy and quite supple, it is easy to drink before a meal and then take it to the table with burgers. 83 Michael Apstein Feb 21, 2006

Domaine de Fontsainte, Corbières Rosé (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) "Gris de Gris" 2013 ($15, Kermit Lynch):

‘Tis the season for sipping fine, dry southern French rosés. The 2013 Domaine Fontsainte Gris de Gris entices with its aromas of strawberries, flowers, subtle dried herbs and savory spice. The flavors reflect its sunny Corbières heritage with ripe, zesty strawberry and raspberry fruits enhanced by an intriguing herbal complexity and a lifted, peppery spice at the finish. It will be a delicious aperitif or a sensational companion for fresh salmon this summer.
89 Wayne Belding Jun 3, 2014

Chateau Grande Cassagne, Costières de Nîmes (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Rosé NV ($10, Kacher Selections): Vivid red cherry fruit is the main attraction in this delicious wine. It shows a bit of sweetness, but the fruit component is so expressive that the sweetness doesn't come across as a distinct or distracting element. Juicy and full of fun, this is great for sipping on its own or for pairing with lightly spicy foods. 87 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2005

Ile de Conas, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) “Le Rosé” 2021 ($9, Plume Ridge Wine Imports):

This classic Rosé from Southern France is an easy go-to summer wine. With a price tag under $10 at Trader Joe’s, this wine is a bargain -- doubly so if it retains its inflation-proof pricing. Made from 25% Grenache Gris, 25% Grenache Noir, 20% Caladoc, 15% Pinot Gris and 15% Cinsault, it shows classic notes of strawberry juice and melon. Serve cold and this wine will be a crowd pleaser at any summer get together.
88 Vince Simmon May 31, 2022

Famille Guibert Moulin de Gassac, Pays d'Hérault (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) “Guilhem” Rosé 2022 ($12, Beaune Imports):

This good value, food-friendly Rosé is widely available and puts many of the pricier, culty rosés to shame. A blend of 35% Syrah, 35% Grenache, and 30% Carignan, this 2022 Rosé is made by the time-honored saignée method which bleeds off a portion of juice during the maceration process, with that juice is destined for rosé production while the remainder in the tank is reserved for highly concentrated red wine. In the glass, this Rosé is a lovely salmon-pink color with bright aromas of strawberry, melon and fresh flowers. It shows some weight on the palate with berry and citrus flavors predominating. Finishing dry, with a hint of acidity, it is direct, uncomplicated and a crowd-pleaser. This could be your go-to rosé throughout the summer.
88 Norm Roby May 23, 2023

Mas Champart, St. Chinian (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Rosé 2014 ($16, Kermit Lynch):

The 2014 Mas Champart St. Chinian Rosé is a juicy and lively rendition of a classic southern French rosé. Mas Champart is a relatively new producer by French standards, established in 1976. Today, the Champarts make small quantities of delicious red, white and rosé wines that sell out quickly. The 2014 St. Chinian rosé has a forward bouquet with lovely scents of strawberry, cherry, white pepper, lavender and savory herbs. It is a bright and refreshing wine, with the juicy fruit flavors interwoven with floral, spice and herbal nuances. Blended from Mourvèdre (55%), Cinsault (35%) and Syrah (10%), this is perfect for sipping on its own or pairing with lighter summer fare.
89 Wayne Belding Jun 16, 2015

Domaine de Gournier, Vin de Pays des Cévennes (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Rosé 2004 ($9, Kacher Selections): Very expressive aromas and flavors of ripe red cherries and strawberries are vivid but not overbearing or overtly sweet. Juicy and full of fun but also great with a wide range of serious foods, this is a superb value. 88 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2005

Les Hautes Terres, Cremant de Limoux (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) “Joséphine” Brut Nature NV ($30):

France's diverse selection of Crémants offers great alternatives to Champagne, often at a fraction of the price of Champagne despite holding the same quality. French Crémants are made using the traditional method – the same method used for Champagne, in which the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. They are also required to be hand-harvested with a minimum of nine months on the lees. This Crémant is crafted from 60 percent Chardonnay, 30 percent Chenin Blanc and 10 percent Mauzac. It displays persistent bubbles, with inviting aromas and flavors of yellow apple, pear, lemon pith, brioche, and a whiff of sea salt from the Mauzac. It has a layered mouthfeel with a creamy, elegant finish.
92 Miranda Franco May 17, 2022

Les Perles Picpoul, Côtes de Thau (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Picpoul 2011 ($11, J.W. Seig Wine): Light and ebullient, with a wisp of salinity on the finish, it’s a wine to enjoy as a balmy aperitif or perfect partner for gazpacho, tuna sandwiches, steamed mussels, lobster rolls or other outdoorsy summer fare. Since Les Perles vines have their feet in the briny waters where oyster farms thrive, it’s no wonder they are wonderful potion to serve with bivalves.
89 Marguerite Thomas Jun 25, 2013

Bila-Haut, Cotes du Roussillon (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Blanc 2016 ($15, HB Wine Merchants):

This is a fine drink any time you want a white wine to relax with. It's a unique blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu that brings fresh nectarine, citrus and herbs in a dry, refreshing style, and a rich melon note that joins sweet lemon in the finish. Quaff away!
90 Rich Cook Dec 26, 2017

Le Soula, Languedoc-Roussillon (France) "Trigone Blanc n°18" NV ($25, Franklin Selection):

The Le Soula Trigone white is a multi-vintage blend of varieties that differ year by year. This bottling includes 45% Macabeu, 31% Vermentino, 22% Sauvignon Blanc, 1% Grenache Blanc, 1% Marsanne & Roussanne. The style is fresh, light, and easy to drink. The Trigone blend offers a great richness of citrus, pear, and white flowers on the nose. The pithy citrus and pear aromas carry over to the palate and join with a touch of almond. This is a refreshing and affordable, top-quality southern French white.
90 Miranda Franco Apr 27, 2021

Les Vignerons de Florensac, Languedoc-Roussillon (Sud de France, France) Picpoul de Pinet 2021 ($15):

Situated close to Sete near the French Mediterranean Coast, the Florensac region is one of the oldest vineyard sites in the AOC. Piquepoul Blanc is the name of the grape, with Picpoul de Pinet being the AOC name. With several key wineries in California talking up the white Picpoul variety, I was interested to find out how this ancient grape performs in the historic Languedoc. This 2021 was aged on the fine lees with frequent stirring for 10 months. Light yellow in color, the wine offers bright aromas of pink grapefruit and a hint of peach. Medium bodied, it delivers plenty of crisp citrus and stone fruit flavors. It finishes long with a slight drying mineral aftertaste. It is a natural companion for shellfish and at this price it is a rival to Muscadet.
90 Norm Roby Oct 25, 2022

Le Fat Bastard, Pays d’Oc IGP (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) Chardonnay 2020 ($12, Winebow):

You might find it easy to dismiss a quirky label as a gimmick to sell an inexpensive wine, but you would miss out on a delicious better-than-it-has-to-be Chardonnay. Véronique Torcolacci has been the head winemaker for 20 years. After the grapes are crushed, she allows the juice to remain in contact with the skins to extract flavors. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation, which changes malic acid (think green apples) to lactic acid (think milk), so the wine is crisp and lively. After fermentation, she allows the wine to remain in contact with the lees, the expired yeast cells from fermentation, which gives the wine a creamy texture. Her final touch is to age a portion of the wine in oak to add roundness and vanilla notes. The result is a fresh, round, juicy wine with apple, pear and pineapple flavors laced with a touch of vanilla and crisp, citrusy acidity. Enjoy it with a fried fish sandwich or to appreciate a summer sunset.
91 Rebecca Murphy Aug 9, 2022

Les Costieres de Pomerols, Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc - Roussillon, France) “H. B.” 2014 ($10, Kysela Pere et Fils, Ltd):

Picpoul, a wine from the warm, dry Languedoc-Roussillon region, reminds many people of Muscadet. I can see why as both wines are rigorously dry, with a bracing acidity, and are wonderful with oysters and other shellfish, but to my palate anyway, Picpoul’s acidity tends to be broader, with somewhat softer edges. Its minerality is perhaps less noticeable than in the best Muscadets, but it does offer a pleasantly delicate suggestion of fruit, especially on the finish. Picpoul de Pinet is rarely designed as a wine to ponder over, to analyze -- it’s meant for refreshment and enjoyment.
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 26, 2016

Moulin de Gassac, Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) 2021 ($14, Beaune Imports):

The Moulin de Gassac wines were developed by the folks at Mas de Daumas Gassac to create readily approachable wines at affordable prices using grapes from different regions. The grapes for this Picpoul de Pinet were grown in a vineyard near the village of Pinet. It is a fresh and lively wine with green apple, Meyer lemon, grapefruit aromas and flavors. Its lively acidity makes it the perfect partner for oysters on the half shell or sashimi. Mas de Daumas Gassac was created in 1974 by Véronique and Aimé Guibert with a little help from the legendary Bordeaux enologist, Emile Peynaud. Over the years the top wines of the estate have achieved cult status and praised by Hugh Johnson as “the only grand cru of the Midi.”
90 Rebecca Murphy Feb 14, 2023

Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2013 ($47):

Anne-Claude Leflaive, the late famed Burgundy producer, and Christian Jacques, her husband, acquired Clau de Nell in 2008. Similar to Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, the vineyards at Clau de Nell are farmed biodynamically. People can -- and do -- argue whether biodynamic philosophy is hocus pocus or whether it is responsible for superior wines. There’s no argument about the quality of either the wines from Domaine Leflaive or Clau de Nell. They are stunningly good. There’s a Burgundian sensibility to this wine -- not surprising considering who owns the estate -- with deceptive power despite lightness on the palate. The Cabernet Franc is lusciously ripe, avoiding vegetal flavors that sometimes plaques this variety. Yet the wine is not heavy. A leafy, savory quality balances the red fruit notes. A crystalline purity makes you eager for another sip. This is a wine that will transform you idea of Cabernet Franc and Loire reds. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2016

Domaine du Petit Clocher, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) 2016 ($13, Misa Imports Inc):

Sooner or later, consumers will discover the joys of red wine from Anjou. And of course, then the price will go up. But for now, stock up on this mid-weight red. Pleasantly austere, this Cabernet Franc-based wine focuses on herbal notes as opposed to just ripe fruity one. It’s not for sipping before dinner, but it’s definitely for drinking when you take the meat off the grill. Refined and polished tannins mean it’s great this summer, but it will easily retain its charm over the next few years. A lovely juicy finish makes you return for another sip. A superb value!
93 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2018

Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2012 ($57, Wilson Daniels):

Anne Claude Leflaive, who runs Domaine Leflaive, perhaps the most celebrated producer of white Burgundy, and her husband, Christian Jacques, purchased this domaine in 2008. It’s remarkable to see how a woman who made her reputation making some of the world’s greatest wines from the Chardonnay grape excels with Cabernet Franc. In a very un-French twist, the appellation, Anjou, is relegated to back label whereas Cabernet Franc is highlighted on the front. The labeling may be unconventional, but the taste is Cabernet Franc at its best. Fully ripe, it conveys the alluring hint of leafy essence that is the hallmark of Cabernet Franc. This mid-weight wine delivers an intriguing herbal character without a trace of greenness. The flavors and tannins caress the palate, they don’t bombard it. The overall suaveness allows you to enjoy it now -- perhaps with turkey at Thanksgiving -- but its balance suggests further development with cellaring.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2014

Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Violette” 2012 ($57, Wilson Daniels):

Here is an example of a wine that far exceeds the reputation of its appellation. Though there are well known appellations for red wines in Loire -- Bourgueil and Chinon spring to mind -- Anjou is not one of them. But this wine, and its stable mates made by Anne Claude Leflaive and her husband Christian Jacques, shows what talented producers can do even in areas considered down market. Though mostly (70%) Cabernet Franc, the Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) in the blend makes its presence known with firm tannins and broad shoulders. At this stage, the lovely leafy character of Cabernet Franc is in the background, but I suspect that with a few more years of bottle age the marriage will round out nicely. Juicy acidity keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. It would be an excellent choice for a hearty beef dish this winter.
89 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2014

Domaine FL, Anjou Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2007 ($18, Daniel Johnnes Selections/Michael Skurnick Wines): This Anjou Blanc shows another expression of the Chenin Blanc grape that is completely different from the domaine’s excellent and distinctive Savennières Roche aux Moines (also reviewed this week). Le Chenin has the more typical profile of a wine made entirely from Chenin Blanc. It is fruity and flowery, yet not sweet. Clean with bracing acidity, it is an ideal accompaniment for roast pork, lighter summertime salads or spicy Asian fare. 88 Michael Apstein May 25, 2010

Domaine de la Chanteleusrie, Bourgueil (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc "Cuvée Alouettes" 2019 ($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

According to importer Kemit Lynch the grapes for Cuvée Alouettes come from a sandy soil that influences Cabernet Franc grapes in a soft and supple stylistic direction. Fermentation and aging in stainless steel ensures focus on the fruit for a wine that is ready for drinking and enjoying. He also recommends giving the wine a bit of chill, á la Beaujolais. I tried it at room temperature before I saw his advice and found it quite enjoyable. It has a rich, dark ruby color with a dark pink rim and aromas of blackberries, dark cherries and a hint of black currants and a savory, earthy note. It is light bodied, smooth with flavors of savory black fruits finishing with chalky tannins. I also tasted the wine chilled and found the flavors brightened and quite refreshing. It will be a great companion with a burger or pizza.
90 Rebecca Murphy Sep 21, 2021

Damien Lorieux, Bourgueil (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc “Graviers” 2009 ($16, Margaux & Company): There is a lot going on here for the price! Stony minerality, cut tobacco leaf, smoky oak, violets, cherry, raspberry, tea, dill and coffee are all evident in this very food friendly wine that would pair well with pasta with bright herb driven sauces.
88 Rich Cook Apr 8, 2014

Domaine de Bel Air, Bourgueil AOC (Loire Valley, France) “Jour de Soif” 2021 ($18, Potomac Selections):

Light and lively, Jour de Soif, or thirst day, is a made-to-drink-young Cabernet Franc. Filled with freshness, dark fruit, crushed rocks, and with an abv at 13%, this is a red wine I enjoy in summer served with a chill. Pierre Gauthier is a leader in organic farming in Bourgueil, earning his certification in 2000. This wine is an easy choice -- pair with sunshine and charcuterie.
89 Vince Simmon Jun 27, 2023

Charles Jouget, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Chene Vert 2009 ($50, Kermit Lynch): This is a spectacular wine from a legendary vintage. The aromas are more

savory than fruity with notes of gravelly minerals, pencil shavings and aromatic herbs. In the mouth it opens up with ripe juicy black currant, blackberry, violet tinged fruits sparked with nervy acidity. Its balance of layered, intense, ripe fruit and fine grained tannins bodes well for the long term, but it’s a pleasure to drink now. The Clos du Chene Vert vineyard, one of the most respected in Chinon, is named for the old green oak tree at the top of the steeply sloped vineyard.
95 Rebecca Murphy Sep 11, 2012

Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de la Dioterie 2003 ($36, Kermit Lynch): If this is not the best young Chinon I've ever tasted, it is pretty damned close. Although it is unusually soft and ripe due to the infamous heat of 2003, it remains quite recognizable both as a Cabernet Franc wine and an expression of Chinon. There must have been a temptation to juke up the oak when presented with such abundant raw material in an appellation that usually yields notoriously lean juice, but the producer wisely resisted that temptation, deftly tuning the wood just up to the point where it could enhance complexity without obscuring the gorgeous juice. Notes of black cherries, dark berries and black plums lead the way, with light accents of dried herbs, spices, and woodsmoke. The body is tender in feel, with just enough acidity and tannin to lend form and retain freshness. Stunning stuff! 93 Michael Franz May 9, 2006

Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc “Cuvée Terroir” 2020 ($29, Kermit Lynch):

Made from vines averaging 30 years old, this “Cuvée Terroir” is one of several Chinon bottlings from Joguet. The winemaker draws from 36 hectares of Cabernet Franc and blends this wine from several sites to come up with a drink-now style. Once poured, it wows with its gorgeous bouquet of sweet raspberry mixed with graphite, herbs and just a hint of red pepper. The flavors include vibrant berries, a hint of mint and herbs surrounded by light dusty tannins. It finishes with a touch of acidity to stretch out the juicy finish. A wine to enjoy now but also could age well.
93 Norm Roby Oct 10, 2023

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de l’Echo 2005 ($35, Cynthia Hurley French Wines):

Couly-Dutheil is among the top--if not the top--producer of Chinon. And although he has a more expensive bottling, their Clos de l’Echo is always my favorite of his offerings. This single vineyard wine from a south-facing rocky slope takes its name from the echo generated between it and the château in Chinon. This is a substantial wine--at least for Chinon--reflective of the excellent 2005 vintage. An attractive, smoky, herbal quality adds complexity. The fine tannins are still apparent at this stage, but well integrated and not astringent. Although enjoyable now for its youthful exuberance, it’s better suited for cellaring to allow its complexity to emerge.

Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Clos du Chene Vert” 2006 ($50, Kermit Lynch): This wine from one of Chinon's best plots, a south-facing steeply slope vineyard, is an example of a Chinon to put in the cellar, in contrast to Joguet 'Les Petites Roches' cuvée (also reviewed this week). You can already sense the layers of flavors ready to spring out of this tightly wound wine. The balance and interplay of fruit, leafy earthiness and minerality hints of good things to come, but give this flower a few years to blossom. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008

Couly-Duthei, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “La Coulée Automnale” 2011 ($15, Cynthia Hurley French Wines):

I don’t have enough experience with Chinon to say that Couly-Dutheil is the area’s best producer. But I can’t think of producer whose wines are consistently better. Couly-Dutheil produces a variety of bottling reflecting the diversity and individuality of their vineyards. Their wines rarely disappoint. This one is made from Cabernet Franc grown on hillside - read, better - plots and vineyards located on more fertile, flatter land. With good ripeness, this Cabernet Franc-based wine conveys an engaging mixture of delicate red fruit with just a touch of herbal or leafy notes. It shows the charm of Chinon. Ready to drink now, this mid-weight red delivers far more complexity than you’d expect at the price. It’s an ideal choice for summertime drinking.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2013

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2008 ($25, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): Couly-Dutheil is arguably Chinon’s best producer and they show their talents again with this rare Chinon white (at least 95% of Chinon is red). A marvelous example of Chenin Blanc, it is more mineral--with chalky nuances--and less floral than Vouvray. A firm streak of acidity amplifies the flavors and adds backbone. It’s an excellent choice for roast pork. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2009

Philippe Alliet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) 2015 ($19, Daniel Johnnes / Skurnik): Most wine lovers are already aware that 2015 is shaping up as a terrific year for red wines from much of Europe--especially France. Yet, many have not tasted any wines from the vintage yet, and if you're looking to

dive in, this would be a fine bottle to get you started. It shows very notable generosity in fruit and richness (more than is usually the case for Cabernet Franc-based wines from Chinon), yet there's not the slightest hint of over-ripeness, and the slightly herbal, leafy character of the variety is still evident behind the expressive fruit. The label image here shows a past vintage, but I include it anyway...just so you don't make the mistake of walking past this unawares in a retail store.
91 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2017

Olga Raffault, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) "Les Picasses" 2011 ($18, Louis / Dressner):

Made entirely from Cabernet Franc, this wine is at a lovely stage of development right now, showing emerging complexities from time in bottle but still displaying nice primary fruit. With lightly leafy aromas that are true to the variety and the appellation, along with subtle notes recalling dark berries, this is medium-bodied and very versatile at the table.
90 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2017

Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Petites Roches” 2006 ($25, Kermit Lynch): Despite its popularity in France, Chinon is an often-overlooked area by US consumers. True, the Cabernet Franc grape, the mainstay of the reds (since 2001 up to 25% Cabernet Sauvignon can be included) can produce vegetal wine if not ripened properly. Ripening was not a problem for Joguet, one of the area's leading producers, in 2006. His 'Les Petites Roches' Cuvée has ripe fruit flavors, but even more appealing is the healthy dose of minerality, which he attributes to the limestone and gravelly soil. With its lovely complexity and accessibility, it would be a fine choice for Thanksgiving. 89 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008

Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) "Cuvée de la Cure" 2003 ($22, Kermit Lynch): If you are sick of fat, oafish, overblown wines, this might be the cure. Alluring aromas of black cherries and cassis are accented with lovely notes of dried herbs, smoke, and freshly ground coffee. Body is medium, which is a little heftier than usual for Chinon, but there's nothing remotely top heavy about this wine, which has enough structure to work well with all sorts of foods (chicken, grilled fish, duck, veal). 89 Michael Franz May 9, 2006

Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) "Cuvée Terroir" 2003 ($18, Kermit Lynch): Charles Joguet is one of the leaders in Chinon, an appellation in the central Loire Valley that produces enticing wines made with Cabernet Franc grapes. Fairly light in body, Chinon reflects its northern terroir, and so tastes of slate and minerals beneath an overlay of raspberry fruit and a leafy, almost floral bouquet. This "Cuvée Terroir" is Joguet's basic, entry-level bottling. In some vintages, it can seem simple; but in 2003, an extremely ripe year, it proves delicious--rich but not heavy, succulent but not clunky or cumbersome. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 14, 2006

Domaine Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “La Coulée Automnale” 2009 ($18, Cynthia Hurley Imports):

La Coulée, one of the prime vineyards in Chinon, has multiple owners. To distinguish his from the rest, Couly-Dutheil, arguably Chinon’s top producer, labels this as “Automnale.” The 2009 vintage in the Loire, like the rest of France, was fabulous, producing ripe, yet balanced red wines, like this mid-weight one. Still, the ripeness thankfully does not obliterate the intriguing leafy and herbal notes that make Chinon so appealing. Ready to drink now, it’s an excellent choice for a simple roasted chicken. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012

Domaine Philippe Alliet, Chinon Rouge (Loire Valley, France) 2021 ($25, Skurnik Wines):

Cabernet Franc from Loire yields increasingly rich, vibrant, and long-lasting wines, and Domaine Philippe Alliet offers a brilliant entry Chinon Rouge. This 2021 Cabernet Franc opens with black cherries, cranberry, currant, cassis, and underbrush, all supported by elegant tannins and lively acidity. A bit of that Cabernet Franc leafiness is typical of younger Chinon, but it is more of an accent than an intrusion here. This will pair perfectly with old-school dishes like steak au poivre and coq au vin. If you have a bottle at room temperature, put it in the fridge for 30 minutes before opening and do consider decanting.
93 Miranda Franco Mar 5, 2024

Clau de Nell, IGT Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (France) Grolleau 2012 ($57, Wilson Daniels):

The Oxford Companion to Wine notes that Grolleau, a local red grape of the Loire, “produces extremely high yields of relatively thin, acid wine and it is to the benefit of wine drinkers that it is so systematically being replaced with Gamay and, more recently, Cabernet Franc.” Indeed, Grolleau is held in such low regard by regulators that it is not allowed in appellation wines. The authorities will want to reconsider their regulations after tasting this superb bottling. I assume the quality and excitement this wine delivers is from a combination of old vines (60 to 90 years) and the talents of Anne Claude Leflaive. With leafy undertones and hints of ash in the nose, it suggests Cabernet Franc. On the palate its firmness and tannic structure is reminiscent of Cabernet Sauvignon, but without the power of that grape. The combination makes it a wonderfully complex and harmonious wine that intrigues you with its “not just fruit” character. I think it would show best in another couple of years as the tannins round out.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2014

Ariane Lesné, Loire Valley (France) Pineau d’ Aunis “Grand Gousier” 2020 ($50, Selection Massale):

If Pineau d’Aunis is new to you, you will discover it is beguiling, aromatic, and elegant. It is similar to Pinot Noir – though typically a bit spicier. Apparently, the grape was a favorite of King Henry III, and many say it might have been the original Claret. The Grand Gousier 2020 Pineau d’ Aunis opens with an enchanting nose of blackberry, morello cherry, and white pepper. It is lightly fruited and nervy, but it has an underlying structure and texture that elevates it from something quaffable to something you can savor.
94 Miranda Franco Feb 13, 2024

Bernier, Loire Valley (France) Pinot Noir 2018 ($16, Vineyard Brands):

Due to the lamentable “grade inflation” that has afflicted wine evaluation during the past 15 years, “88” could easily be mistaken for the proverbial, “damning with faint praise.” That is definitely not my intention, which is, on the contrary, to highlight a rendition of Pinot Noir that remains true to the delicacy and purity for which this variety has been historically prized -- and manages to do that at a price appropriate for a guilt-free Tuesday night. Simple but highly enjoyable aromas and flavors are marked by cherry and wild strawberry fruit notes with just a slight savory undertone to add a bit of complexity. That’s it. But that’s enough, and indeed, I’d much rather have my Tuesday night Pinot left well enough alone than have it juked up with Syrah or press wine or other cellar trickery to make it seem “impressive” rather than naturally pretty, which is exactly how this wine comes across.
88 Michael Franz Jul 9, 2019

Domaine de la Tourmaline, Muscadet Sevre et Maine (France) 2005 ($14, Robert Chadderon Selections): I believe it's safe to say that ff more restaurants offered wines like this, more diners would have a glass of wine at lunch. Tourmaline's steely Muscadet is classic for the genre, showing more characteristics of wet stone and minerals than fruit, but eminently quaffable, with fresh acidity and a hint of lime that supplies a splash of tangy fruit to an otherwise straightforward, flinty white from France's famed Loire Valley. The reason you'd drink it at lunch? Only 12 percent alcohol, well below the norm for other whites, particularly Chardonnay. A perfect wine for fresh oysters or steamed clams. 88 Robert Whitley Jul 31, 2007

Denis Jamain / Domaine de Reuilly, Reuilly Rouge (Loire Valley, France) Pinot Noir 2018 ($24, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Cognoscenti know Reuilly, a tiny (300-acre) off the beaten track appellation in the eastern Loire, for its Sauvignon Blanc-based wines — kind of a mini-Sancerre. Curiously, Denis Jamain has more Pinot Noir planted there than Sauvignon Blanc (~20 acres versus 15). It turns out that the Kimmerigdian limestone soil, similar to what’s in and Chablis, is ideally suited for both varieties. This 2018 has lovely density, secondary, no doubt, to the warm vintage that gave a boast to ripening of Pinot Noir this far north. This lively Pinot Noir displays mineraly traits along with savory and fruity ones. The focus here is more on the savory and mineraly side of the variety rather than its fruity side. It’s a great bargain, especially for Pinot Noir, which is notoriously expensive.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2021

Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Demoiselle” Rouge 2004 ($70, Elite Wines): Only about 15% of the wine made in Sancerre is red, but in my experience that is about 14% too much. Most red Sancerres taste thin and overly acidic, without clearly defined flavor. This small appellation in central France is home to some of the world's finest white wines, all made with Sauvignon Blanc. Why mess around with Pinot Noir? The answer, of course, is that other one percent, exemplified by this bottling from one of the appellation's stars. Alphonse Mellot's impeccable white Sancerres were some of my most exciting wine discoveries of 2006. This red does not lag far behind. Light-bodied but neither thin nor tart, it tastes of dark cherry fruit with a steely, mineral-tinged undertone, and so bespeaks both its origins-the grape variety and the place. That's what truly fine wines must do, and this is a very, very fine wine indeed. 92 Paul Lukacs Jan 2, 2007

Daniel Chotard, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Rouge 2003 ($24): This surprising red Sancerre opens with a medium-deep ruby color that is followed by bright red Pinot Noir fruit aromas and medium layered black cherry flavors with subtle oak notes. A little pricey, but a nice addition to any pinot lover's collection. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Feb 7, 2006

Domaine Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre Rouge (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes sur Silex 2012 ($45, Vineyard Brands): Few consumers in the USA are aware that such a thing as Sancerre Rouge even exists, and historically speaking, that wasn’t much to their detriment, and most of it was thin, under-ripe, angular, and simply difficult to like on any ground other than novelty appeal. The category is made entirely from Pinot Noir, by law, and in recent years a few producers such as Delaporte have been turning out excellent renditions. One suspects that climate change is what’s producing this effect, but hey, if we’re going to encounter environmental perils anyway, at least we can console ourselves with some excellent wine. This is fully ripe but still light by global standards, though not lighter than would be normal for a Burgundy from a northerly village like Fixin. The fruit is fresh and lively but also quite respectably deep in flavor, with pure notes of dark cherries predominating. Oak is notable but still restrained, and both the quality of the fruit and the winemaking are exemplary. Absolutely delicious, this is now a wine to buy solely on its merits, regardless of novelty value.
92 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2014

Jean-Max Roger, Sancerre Rouge (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2017 ($39):

Sancerre reds are relatively rare, as they only account for 15% of production in the appellation, but there are fine examples that reward a search, like this old-vine rendition. The fruit was sourced from a variety of old-vine vineyards in Sancerre, and the quality and richness of flavor really showed. I found notes of red and black fruit supported by an undertone of iron and flint minerality. All the elements work well together in this 100% Pinot Noir wine.
90 Vince Simmon May 24, 2022

Jean Reverdy, Sancerre Rouge (Loire Valley, France) “Les Villots” 2006 ($26, Kysela):

On account of a worldwide fashion for big, ripe wines, it is not easy these days to find genuinely light red wines, which are often the best choice for certain fish and poultry dishes. This is one wine that fits the bill, with delicate cherry and red berry fruit and appropriately subtle wood and spice accents.

Thierry Germain / Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Clos de L’Échelier 2018 ($70, Vineyard Road):

Thierry Germain at Domaine des Roches Neuves is one of the Loire’s young superstars. He makes a range of reds from Cabernet Franc, as is the tradition in Saumur Champigny. This one, one of his top cuvées, comes from a 4.5-acre terraced plot of 70-year old vines. He is passionate about organic farming and biodynamics, and is convinced that those practices make an enormous difference, especially in a hot year, such as 2018. There’s no doubt that his 2018 Clos de L’Échelier delivers ripe, succulent black cherry-like flavors you would expect from a warm growing season. Yet, it is balanced, not overblown and weighs in at a modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol. Mineral-like flavors, characteristic of the plot, emerge as it sits in the glass. Brilliant acidity keeps it energetic and in focus. Its extraordinarily suave texture bolsters my enthusiasm. When I visited the estate five years ago, he told me that he attributed the polish of his wines to the detail he takes with the vineyard, using one man to care for five acres, as opposed to the usual one man to 25-acre ratio. Still, even with its polished texture this is a youthful wine that is best cellared for a decade. This unique expression of Cabernet Franc should dispel any notion about the grandeur of red wines from the Loire Valley.
95 Michael Apstein Feb 16, 2021

Clos Cristal, Saumur Champigny (Loire Valley, France) “Hospices de Saumur” 2006 ($22, Bourgeois Family Selections): Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley is rather dicey stuff, since the growing regions are really at the northerly climatic margin of nature's ability to get the grapes ripe. When they do indeed get ripe, the wines can be quite complex and truly wonderful with food, though when insufficiently ripe they are weedy and angular and damn near undrinkable. You will not need more than one sniff and sip to know where this wine comes down along that divide, as it shows lovely aromas and very interesting flavors that bespeak optimal ripening. Notes of black plums and both red and black berries are very pure but not overly simple, as they are augmented with very nice accents of dried herbs, fresh meat and subtle spices. Medium-bodied and structured with very soft tannins, this will prove to be a wonderful partner for moderately robust foods such as duck, veal or pork. 90 Michael Franz Feb 10, 2009

Hospices de Saumur, Saumur Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Clos Cristal 2006 ($23, Bourgeois Family Selections): Cabernet Franc is a two-faced varietal. When planted in warm growing areas, it yields dense, jammy red wines with an intensity that rivals those made with its more celebrated offspring, Cabernet Sauvignon. But when planted in cooler regions, the wines are much lighter, with a green, leafy edge, and, assuming the grapes were ripe, sweet raspberry-scented fruit. Lightness enables these wines to offer mineral-rich undertones and a thrillingly silky texture. They taste truly distinctive. That's the profile exhibited by this extremely elegant, medium-weight Saumur Champigny. It's simply mouth-watering. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 24, 2009

Domaine de L’Enchantoir, Saumur Puy-Notre Dame (Loire Valley, France) “Le Pied a l'Etrier” 2017 ($24):

This gorgeous and deeply fragrant Cabernet Franc was fermented with native yeasts. Having been aged entirely in tanks rather than barrels, and with a minimal amount of SO2 used at bottling, the palate is pure and fresh. Unencumbered by oak flavors, the medium weight wine delivers flashes of blueberry, cherry, earth and espresso, with just the right amount of acidity tying everything together. The epic finish is an important part of “Le Pied’s” charm. Incidentally, the relatively new sub-appellation of Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame distinguishes it from Saumur.
91 Marguerite Thomas Feb 25, 2020

Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny (Loire Valley, France) “Le Bourd” 2004 ($112, Louis Dressner Selections): You read the price correctly. More than $100 a bottle for--of all things--a wine made from Cabernet Franc grown in Saumur-Champigny, not exactly France's most famous viticultural area. But what an outstanding wine! Clos Rougeard is considered by most locals to be the area's best producer. This wine, from the oldest vines of the estate, an 80-year-old vineyard directly above their cellar, is unquestionably the best of a trio that includes two other superb wines. It has a seductive combination of minerality, savory leafiness and red fruit. Like a great sauce, no one element stands out--the flavors merge seamlessly and new ones emerge with each sip. It has mind-boggling length, suaveness and balance. 96 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Les Poyeux 2004 ($81, Louis Dressner Selections): This superb wine will quash any doubts that Cabernet Franc is a noble and great grape. Although there is no official classification of Saumur-Champigny vineyards, Les Poyeux, a single vineyard, is considered one of the area's best. The wine has a Pinot Noir kind of sensibility--that is flavor without weight. The gloriously complex nose is followed by equally multidimensional flavors of subtle ripe red fruits and herbal elements. Each sip bombards the palate with new flavors. Long and suave, it's a revelation because red wines from the Loire rarely achieve this kind of grandeur. Its quality is exceeded only by its stablemate, Clos Rougeard's 2004 Le Bourd (previously reviewed). 95 Michael Apstein Mar 17, 2009

Château de Villeneuve, Saumur-Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2020 ($20):

The Loire Valley’s Saumur-Champigny appellation is a treasure trove for mid-weight Cabernet Franc-based red wines. Cabernet Franc, a grape that doesn’t tolerate drought well, is perfectly suited to the sponge-like water retaining capacity of the tuffeau stone (local name for chalk, which is omnipresent in this appellation that surrounds the picturesque town of Saumur) and explains why that grape accounts for well over 90 percent of the plantings in the appellation. Château de Villeneuve makes several wines from Saumur-Champigny. This release, their “entry-level” one, comes from a blend of parcels around the château that have been aged in both stainless-steel tanks, to preserve fruitiness, and oak barrels to add texture and complexity. With great aromatics, it is delightfully fresh and fruity with sufficient balancing spiciness to add complexity. The suave texture and supple tannins make it ideal for current consumption with everything from roast chicken in a mushroom sauce to burgers from the grill.
90 Michael Apstein May 3, 2022

Frederic Mabileau, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil (Loire Valley, France) “Les Rouillères” 2009 ($20, Simon N Cellars): The Loire Valley is so well known for its vibrant whites that consumers often overlook the reds from this region. That’s a shame because when fully ripe, Cabernet Franc, the major red grape in the region, delivers a lovely balance of red fruit flavors and leafy notes. The 2009 vintage produced great Loire reds, just as it did in Burgundy and Bordeaux. This one, from the hard-to-pronounce St. Nicolas de Bourgueil appellation, is a poster child for 2009 red Loire wines. A mid-weight red, it conveys bright red fruit notes, early nuances and smooth tannins. Put it on your list for Thanksgiving. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2011

Frederic Mabileau, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil (Loire Valley, France) “Les Rouilleres” 2007 ($18, Jon David Headrick Selections): Despite focusing the on the same grape, Cabernet Franc, the wines from the appellation of St. Nicolas de Bourgueil are typically lighter than those from the neighboring appellation of Bourgueil because of the soil, which contains more sand rather than clay and limestone. Cabernet Franc is a tricky grape because when under ripe it produces a wine with distinct an unpleasant vegetal character. Mabileau, an excellent producer in the region, gets his fully ripe and produces this fresh and lively red with abundant red fruit character and engaging herbal elements that add complexity. Mild tannins allow you to chill the wine and enjoy it when you need a lighter red for summer time drinking. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010

Frederick Mabileau, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil (Loire Valley, France) "Les Rouillères" 2003 ($15, Simon "N" Cellars): Another delicious 2003 Cab Franc from the Loire, this wine packs an amazing amount of complexity onto a light frame. Fruit notes of dried cherries and black plums are very appealing, with subtle aromas of herbs and smoke lending additional interest. 88 Michael Franz May 9, 2006

Domaine de la Garrelière, Touraine Rouge (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2007 ($18, Vintage ’59 Imports): This is a very tasty and very versatile wine made from biodynamically-grown grapes. Medium-bodied, it shows nicely ripened fruit recalling dark berries with accent notes of dried herbs. The tannins are very fine in grain, enabling them to help firm the wine’s finish without drying the delicate fruit notes. Pair with anything from more robust fish dishes to chicken, duck or white meats. 88 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2009

Domaine Brazilier, Coteaux du Vendomois (Loire Valley, France) Pineau d’Aunis 2014 ($11, Thomas Calder Selections):

This vin gris is a beautiful and unusual Rosé. It has the typical pale pinkish-goldish color of vin gris, and on the palate it is brittle, bright and scintillating, with a delicate yet haunting evocation of strawberries and other red fruits. It has compelling acidity on the finish without being at all astringent. The Vendômois is a tiny AOC in the Loire region that covers slightly more than 350 acres. The white grape of the Vendômois is Chenin Blanc, often boosted by Chardonnay, and the red grapes include Pineau d’Aunis, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gamay. Vin Gris must be made from 100% Pineau d’Aunis.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 14, 2016

Le Charmel, Loire Valley (France) Rosé 2018 ($12, Winesellers Ltd.):

This charming Rosé has a lot of things going for it, starting with its inviting, pink-tinged tangerine color. While it is deliciously fruity (think strawberries and peaches) it is also perfectly dry, and the acidity is nicely balanced. It’s also an unusually tasty companion to a variety of foods, from shrimp salad to rice and beans.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 16, 2020

Dyckerhoff, Reuilly (Loire Valley, France) Pinot Gris "Petit Gris" Rosé 2021 ($20, Michael Corso Selections):

For some, October might mark the end of Rosé season, but I enjoy Rosé wines anytime of the year. In fact, I opened this pale golden pink wine with subtle strawberry, peach aromas and flavors from Christian and Bénéticte Dyvkerhoff just a few days ago. It is lively and crisp and was a fitting companion for the Cobb salad I put together. Pinot Gris is a color mutation of Pinot Noir. According to Jancis Robinson, et.al., in Wine Grapes, there is little plantings of Pinot Gris in the Loire Valley. Fortunately, the Dyckerhoff‘s have seven hectares (17.3 acres). The winery is certified Terra Vitis, a global approach specific to viticulture. “The evaluation includes the entire operation of the farm, its environment, its people and its economic viability." A Terra Vitis certified domain is immediately awarded level 2 of High Environmental Value.
90 Rebecca Murphy Oct 3, 2023

Aimé Boucher, Rosé d’Anjou (Loire Valley, France) 2017 ($13, Vintners Alliance):

Rosé d’Anjou always has a hint -- sometimes more -- of sweetness since regulations require a minimum of 7 grams of residual sugar per liter. In my mind, the residual sugar in this rosé does what it does in German Kabinett wines: it amplifies the fruitiness without imparting a cloying sweetness because of the wine’s inherent vibrant and balancing acidity. This ying and yang make it a fine choice to accompany spicy Asian cuisine because the delicate sweetness acts as a counter-point to the heat in the food.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2018

M. de Mulonnière, Rosé d'Anjou (Loire Valley, France) 2015 ($15, Pasternak Wine Imports):

Anjou’s Rosés aren’t every American wine lover’s cup of pink wine. Our palates seem to have become attuned to expecting rosé to be very dry and crisp, which is somewhat understandable in view of all the unpleasant examples of the genre -- you know, the low tier rosés that have zero character and are bubble-gum sweet. Rosé d’Anjou is a different species altogether. This one, for example, is typical of the genre. Teeming with ultra ripe red raspberry, strawberry and cassis flavors, and plump and silky on the palate, it has both delicate nuances and an outspoken personality. In that respect it is almost more like a cocktail, with the added advantage of boasting a mere 11% alcohol.
89 Marguerite Thomas Aug 16, 2016

Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Terre de Maimbray” 2021 ($32, Weygant-Metzler):

I do love Rosé wines made from Pinot Noir, especially when that Pinot Noir is from the Sancerre region in France’s Loire Valley. The raspberry, strawberry, red cherry fruit is pure and delicate, yet lively with steely acidity, making a wine that will enliven a picnic or a Sunday brunch. The Reverdy family are meticulous grape growers with just over 26 acres of Sauvignon Blanc and close to 7.5 acres of Pinot Noir in and around the village of Maimbray. The wines are made by Pascal Reverdy.
95 Rebecca Murphy Sep 13, 2022

Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Rosé 2018 ($31, Vineyard Brands):

Believe it or not, I’ve already tasted more than 250 rosé wines from the 2018 vintage, and this is quite simply the best of the lot. In fairness to the others, this is also among the very most expensive, but with that acknowledged, it is worth every penny and more. It is amazingly generous in body and flavor when considered in light of two important facts, namely, that it is made entirely from Pinot Noir fruit that was grown very far north of the Mediterranean, where most of its pink counterparts were sourced. Still, the wine’s richness and generosity of flavor doesn’t come at the cost of refreshment value, as there’s plenty of acidity to enliven the flavors of pie cherries and wild strawberries. Fantastic as a stand-alone sipper, this packs plenty of punch for partnering with food, and applying it to both purposes will make for a terrific evening.
93 Michael Franz Jun 25, 2019

Domaine Cherrier et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Rosé 2018 ($27, Vineyard Brands):

This is impeccable Sancerre Rosé that gets everything just right: Fresh but restrained fruit, plus energetic but not sour acidity, and appealing minerality that lends a sense of place without distracting from the wine’s fruity freshness. All of the aromas, flavors and structural elements show lovely proportions relative to one another, and all sing in lovely harmony. I wouldn’t have guessed the wine carried the 14 percent alcohol indicated on its label due to its freshness, but when reconsidering the wine after seeing that number, I believe it is accurate. By contrast, the 13.5 percent shown on the 2018 Domaine Delaporte Rosé -- a much bigger wine -- seems utterly unbelievable by comparison. Both are delicious, but this is the choice for climate change skeptics, whereas the Delaporte provides better evidence for believers.
92 Michael Franz Jun 25, 2019

Christian Lauverjat, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Rosé “Moulin des Veillères” 2006 ($17, Elite Wine Imports): A superb Pinot Noir-based rosé, this features exceptionally interesting and expressive aromas of fresh cherries and strawberries with a lovely floral note. Bright and very light on its feet, it is flavorful but nevertheless exquisitely delicate, with fine mineral notes and seamless integration. Beautiful! 90 Michael Franz Jul 10, 2007

Domaine des Côtes Blanches, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Rosé 2018 ($22, Elenteny Imports):

While Sancerre is most famous for its distinctive Sauvignon Blanc white wines, about a quarter of the region’s production is red and rosê wines from Pinot Noir grapes. The Domaine des Côtes Blanches takes its name from the white soils of their vineyards. Their 2018 Sancerre Rosé is a delightful wine! The aromas are forward and enticing, with juicy cherry and strawberry fruits backed by hints of citrus peel and spice. Ripe and round on the palate, its luscious cherry and strawberry flavors are supported by the orange zest and spice tones. It’s a marvelous wine to enjoy on its own, but it has enough body to serve with salmon or most anything off the grill.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 27, 2019

Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) “Chavignol” 2019 ($29, Vineyard Brands):

The Delaporte family has been making wine since the 1600s in the Sancerre region of the Loire Valley in France. They have 80 acres of vines, three quarters of which are Sauvignon Blanc and one quarter Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir grapes for this 2019 Rosé are pressed without maceration to create the delightful rose pink color and this elegant, delectable, dry Rosé with raspberry, strawberry fruit and creamy smooth texture from six months of aging on lees. It is beautifully balanced with mouthwatering acidity. It makes a great aperitif especially with the famous local cheese Crotin de Chavignol and will pair agreeably with roast salmon or smoked turkey.
95 Rebecca Murphy Jan 18, 2022

Gérard Boulay, Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) “Sibylle” 2022 ($36, Thomas Calder Selection):

Within the Sancerre appellation, the commune of Chavignol stands out for the intensity of its wines. Sauvignon Blancs from Chavignol rank among the most distinctive in the world. Gérard Boulay not only makes a superb Sancerre Blanc from his steep Chavignol vineyards, but also makes a small quantity of red and rosé. The 2022 Gérard Boulay Sibylle Sancerre Rosé shows that power can be expressed in fine rosés. The aromas are forward and enticing, with pure red cherry and strawberry fruits underlain by hints of orange peel and spice. Forward and ripe on the palate, its luscious cherry and strawberry flavors are supported by a flinty minerality plus orange zest and subtle spice tones. It’s a perfect warm weather refresher. Fully enjoyable on its own, it has enough body to serve with salmon, sausages or most anything off the grill.
93 Wayne Belding Jul 11, 2023

Lucien Crochet , Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($35, Rosenthal Wine Merchants):

Lucien Crochet’s grandfathers from both sides of the family were wine growers in France’s Loire Valley, so perhaps his path was preordained. His estate in the Loire Valley of France includes 26 hectares (64.2 acres) of Sauvignon Blanc and nine hectares (22.2 acres) of Pinot Noir. His 2020 rosé is an elegant and delicious wine with a pale pink color golden highlights with aromas of cherries and strawberries with chalky mineral notes. Flavors of strawberries, raspberries, and red cherries are captured in an lean but supple structure with bright acidity. Sip it with fresh crab cakes or grilled summer vegetables.
92 Rebecca Murphy Aug 17, 2021

Domaine de la Pauline, Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($30, Regal Wine Imports):

For many consumers, Sancerre is synonymous with distinctive Sauvignon Blanc white wines. The red and rosê wines from Pinot Noir grapes grown here are largely overlooked. The Domaine de la Pauline is owned by Eric Louis, a talented winemaker with a special gift for Rosé wines. His 2020 Sancerre Rosé shows a combination of depth and elegance not often found among rosés. The aromas are forward and enticing, with pure red cherry and strawberry fruits underlain by hints of citrus peel and spice. Juicy, forward and ripe on the palate, its luscious cherry and strawberry flavors are supported by the lemon zest and subtle spice tones. It’s a perfect choice for warm weather drinking.
91 Wayne Belding May 25, 2021

Roger & Christophe Moreux, Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) Pinot Noir "Cuvée des Lys" 2019 ($28, Michael Corso Selections):

While Sancerre is synonymous with distinctive Sauvignon Blanc white wines, its red and rosé wines from Pinot Noir grapes are largely overlooked. The Domaine of Roger & Christophe Moreux is located in Chavignol, a village famous for the intensity of its whites. Their 2019 Cuvée des Lys Sancerre Rosé show that power can be expressed in rosés as well. The aromas are forward and enticing, with pure red cherry and strawberry fruits underlain by hints of orange peel and spice. Forward and ripe on the palate, its luscious cherry and strawberry flavors are supported by the orange zest and subtle spice tones. It’s a perfect warm weather refresher. Fully enjoyable on its own, it has enough body to serve with salmon, sausages or most anything off the grill.
91 Wayne Belding Aug 4, 2020

Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) “En Grands Champs” 2008 ($27, Boutique Wine Collection): Most rosés are a by-product of the technique, saignée, used to bolster red wines. The distinctive rosés, such as this one, are the ones in which the producer sets out to make a rosé. And there is no better producer in Sancerre than Alphonse Mellot. He presses Pinot Noir grapes, keeping the juice and skins in contact for only a few days. The resulting salmon-colored wine has a strawberry-tinged minerality and vibrant uplifting acidity. It’s a serious price for a rosé, but it’s a very serious wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2009

Roger & Christophe Moreux, Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) "Cuvée des Lys" 2020 ($30, Michael Corso Selections):

The red and rosé wines from Pinot Noir grapes in Sancerre are largely overlooked, even though they comprise around a quarter of the appellation’s production. The Domaine of Roger & Christophe Moreux is located in Chavignol, a village famous for the intensity of its white wines. Their 2020 Cuvée des Lys Sancerre Rosé shows that complexity can be expressed in rosés as well. The aromas are bright and inviting, with pure red cherry and strawberry fruits underlain by hints of orange peel and spice. Forward and ripe on the palate, its luscious cherry and strawberry fruits are supported by the orange zest and subtle spice tones. It’s a perfect summer time sipper. Fully enjoyable on its own, it has enough body and zest to serve with most anything off the grill.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 13, 2021

Le Roi des Pierres, Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) 2022 ($30, Cape Classics):

Le Roi des Pierres is a cuvée made by Adrien Gaudiat, a well known winemaker for a prominent family in Sancerre. Drawing from vineyards near Monts Damnés, he has access to some of the most iconic sites in Sancerre. Only about 20% of the entire AOC is planted to Pinot Noir. This Rose, made 100% from Pinot, comes across as a lively, party style wine, perfect to enjoy during the warm summer weeks. Pink in color with an effusive strawberry nose with a hint of citrus. On the palate it is smooth and gentle with fresh berry flavors. A touch of sweetness along with fresh acidity makes this invite a second glass.
88 Norm Roby Jul 18, 2023

De Chanceny, Crémant de la Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut Nature 2015 ($20):

Crémant de la Loire is a category of sparkling wines that consumers should embrace. Many of these traditionally made (secondary fermentation in the bottle as with Champagne) bubblies provide great enjoyment at an affordable price. Take De Chanceny’s Brut Nature, for example. The traditional grapes used for Crémant de la Loire, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and a little Cabernet Franc, comprise the blend of this beauty. The “Nature” designation means that very little or no sugar in the dosage, which means that the wines chosen for Champagne, or this kind of sparkling wine, must be the highest quality. That explains why De Chanceny uses only hand-harvested grapes for this cuvée. Their 2015 Brut Nature displays creaminess intermingled with subtle toasty notes, all supported by a balancing spine of acidity that keeps it fresh. Its silky texture means you just want to keep drinking it, which is find because it’s a good pairing for anything from fish in a beurre blanc sauce to sushi.
91 Michael Apstein May 3, 2022

Domaine Philippe Tessier, Cremant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($16, Premier Wine Imports): Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this is an angular wine with decent unripe pear fruit, a little white pepper and a bit of earthiness. I'm told the grapes are organic, though that has been difficult to verify. Good palate cleanser. 88 W. Blake Gray Dec 29, 2009

Domaine du Landreau, Crémant de Loire (France) “Volage” Rosé Brut Sauvage NV ($28):

This wonderful sparkler is not your typical Crémant de Loire Rosé. Made entirely from Cabernet Franc, it has all of the allure of the grape with power and depth. It’s been aged on the lees for 36 months, which imparts a lovely texture. Beautifully balanced, its spine of acidity keeps it fresh. This rosé cries for food -- grilled bluefish or tuna, because the heft of the wine will support it. It’s a great buy.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2019

Domaine des Baumard, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) "Carte Turquoise" NV ($20, Alliance wine):

With green apple and citrus aromas and flavors, the wine is crisp and vivacious, with a fine mousse and generous finish. Domaine des Baumard is farmed organically and the grapes are harvested by hand. This Crémant has enough going for it to be a satisfying aperitif, and I know from experience that it makes a tasty partner for oysters.
91 Marguerite Thomas Nov 6, 2018

Langlois-Chateau, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($24, Vintus):

First a bit of trivia. Note the absence of a “hat” accent over the a in Chateau. That’s because it’s not a building but rather a proper name. In 1912, Edouard Langlois and Jeanne Chateau founded what has become the standard bearer of Loire Valley sparkling wines. Bollinger, the Champagne firm, invested in the property in 1973, upgrading the vineyards and cellar. A blend of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc, this graceful sparkler is a delight to drink as an aperitif but has enough substance to easily accompany a hearty first course, such as smoked salmon. Extended, far more than the appellation requires, lees-aging adds a creamy complexity.
91 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2023

Langlois-Chateau, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut Rosé NV ($25, Vintus):

No, it is not a typo. The winery name is Langlois-Chateau in honor of Edouard Langlois and Jeanne Chateau who created the winery in 1885. The beautiful golden orange color of this bubbly is courtesy of 12 to 15 hours of skin contact of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Pinot Noir. The wine then spends 18 months aging on the lees to preserve freshness and that vibrant color. The tiny, lively bubbles enliven the soft, round aromas and flavors of ripe apple, juicy peach flavors. Enjoy it with fried chicken or holiday turkey with cranberry sauce.
91 Rebecca Murphy Nov 21, 2023

Bouvet-Ladubay, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) "Brut Excellence" 2015 ($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

Taittinger, a top Champagne house, has owned Bovet-Ladubay since the mid-1970s and that likely explains, at least in part, the wine’s elegance and focus. A blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, this bubbly is steely, crisp, and refreshing. The spine of acidity makes is a great choice to bring to the table after you have a glass or two as an aperitif because it will cut through whatever flavors are on the plate.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2018

Château de Mauny, Crémant de Loire (France) Brut NV ($17, Grape Expectations):

From family-owned 125 hectare vineyards in Anjou and made by the traditional method as in Champagne, this Brut shows well in the under-$20 category dominated by Cava and Prosecco. The blend is 80% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, and is aged in bottle for one year prior to its release. It is yellow in color with excellent, tiny and very persistent bubbles. There’s a balance of yeastiness and dried pear notes in the aroma, and the flavors take on a little apple touch, but overall it comes across as bright and lively for a medium bodied bubbly. The aftertaste has a wisp of sweetness, but this remains well within the Brut style.
90 Norm Roby Jun 22, 2021

Langlois-Chateau, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($23, Vintus):

Edouard Langlois and Jeanne Chateau founded their eponymous company in 1912 and has been a leading producer of Crémant de Loire ever since. This, their standard NV Brut, is a blend of Chenin Blanc (at least 60%), and roughly equal parts of Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. Yes, you read that correctly. Just as Champagne producers use black grapes (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) in their blend, Loire producers use one of their indigenous red grapes in their sparkling wines. It’s taut and focused, with bright and refreshing acidity without harshness. A great aperitif, it will also cut through things like grilled swordfish so don’t be afraid to take it to the table.
90 Michael Apstein May 19, 2020

Château de L’Aulée, Crémant de Loire Brut (Loire Valley, France) NV ($22, Franck's Signature / Bacchus): Let us speak frankly: There’s an important sense in which selecting sparkling wine from anywhere in the world other than France’s

Champagne region is a trade-down. However, there are some extraordinary sparklers that still look like good buys even if they are priced only $10 or $15 below Champagne. Moreover, there are some sparklers that are different enough in style that one could easily have good reason to buy them even if there were no price difference of consequence. This delicious wine gets check marks on both of those considerations. It is beautifully balanced and quite complex like any good Champagne, yet creamier, fruitier, and very slightly floral in a way that makes is quite distinctive. I’ve tried it several times in recent months, and regarded it extremely highly in each instance. 91 Michael Franz Sep 13, 2011

Château de Minière, Loire Valley (France) Cabernet Franc "Bulles de Minière" Rouge NV ($23, Communal Brands):

This winemaker was able to thread the needle between a great Cabernet Franc and a sparkling red wine. This wine drinks like a Lambrusco but still has red bell pepper notes indicative of reds from the Loire Valley. I also found notes of red and black licorice, black cherry, and dark blossoms. While great on its own, this would pair wonderfully with cured meats. Personally, I would love a duck prosciutto with this wine.
90 Vince Simmon Apr 19, 2022

Domaine du Petit Coteau, Loire Valley (France) Vouvray Brut Méthode Traditionnelle NV ($20):

This is a 100% Chenin Blanc from the domaine’s organic vineyards. Made by the traditional method, it is light straw in color with good, persistent bubbles. The nose is subtle but overall attractive with hints of apple, yeast and chalkiness. Round and soft on the palate, it delivers apple and yeasty flavors, and with plenty of acidity coming through in the aftertaste. The slight sweetness is merely a whisper. If Vouvray is not on your radar for a good value bubble, this one may change your thinking.
89 Norm Roby Sep 12, 2023

Bouvet Ladubay, Loire Valley (France) Rosé Excellence, Brut NV ($16):

Bouvet Ladubay, one of the Loire’s largest producers of sparkling wine, is back under Monmousseau family control since 2015, after having been run by a succession of corporate enterprises. This mid-weight rosé, made exclusively from Cabernet Franc grown in the Saumur region of the Loire Valley, delivers spice with a hint of sweetness. This energetic wine would be a good match for spicy food or sushi and a superb way to welcome guests this Thanksgiving.
88 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2020

Louis de Grenelle, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “Corail” Brut Rosé NV ($20):

One of a few sparklers I’ve encountered made with 100% Cabernet Franc, this Brut was a pleasant surprise. The fruit was hand-harvested and the cuvée was aged on the lees for 12 months. It is a pale copper-pink color with persistent, tiny bubbles. The aroma combines delicate plum fruit with a distinct note of pepper and herbaceousness that hints of Cabernet Franc. Bright and round on the palate, it delivers fresh light fruit flavors with a floral, yeasty touch in the background. A slight bit of sweetness comes through in the finish, but overall, this is a nicely structured and delicate Brut.
91 Norm Roby Jul 11, 2023

Bouvet-Ladubay, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “Tresor” 2018 ($20):

The Loire Valley produces a lot of sparkling wines under Crémant de la Loire appellation. Often overlooked are sparkling ones from other Loire appellations, such as this one from Saumur, an appellation that predates that of Crémant de la Loire and mandates that the grape come a smaller area just around the town of Saumur. For Bouvet’s Tresor, a blend of Chenin Blanc (80%) and Chardonnay, the still wines spent 9 to 12 months aging in oak barrels before blending and the secondary bottle-fermentation. The oak nuances add a richness that nicely balances the firmness imparted by Chenin Blanc. Tresor makes a fine aperitif but has sufficient umph and interest to happily accompany seafood offerings or a roast chicken with a mushroom sauce. And for only twenty bucks, it would certainly transform an evening when a take-out rotisserie chicken is on the menu.
90 Michael Apstein May 3, 2022

Château Moncontour, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Le Grand Reserve, Cuvée Prédilection” 2014 ($20):

Three years aging on the lees of this Chenin Blanc-based sparkling wine explains its enormous depth and refinement. It’s a lovely expression of Vouvray, with a perfect balance of lively fruitiness backed by a firm spine. Elegant and long, it’s a good choice for simply grilled fish this summer. Just don’t drink too much of it while your grilling or you’ll need to open two bottles.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2018

François Pinon, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut Non Dosé NV ($23):

This sparkling wine from François Pinon, one of the leading producers in Vouvray, dazzles with its mineraly chalky signature. The limestone and flint soil gives it real character and structure. It conveys a pleasing firmness without being aggressive because the inherent fruitiness of Chenin Blanc balances its moderate fizziness. Lending to harmony is use of a local traditional method of making sparkling wine: Corking the bottle before the primary fermentation has been completed so the yeast still have a touch of sugar to ferment, in contrast to the method in Champagne in which a full secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2015

Maison Bougrier, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Pure Loire” Brut NV ($20): I

n addition to still wines, Vouvray is also home to delightful sparkling wines. Made exclusively from Chenin Blanc, this one combines the subtle fruitiness of that grape with a racy spine of bubbles. Slighter fruitier than Champagne, but similarly enlivening, it’s a good choice this summer.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2018

Sébastien Brunet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “La Rocherie” Brut NV ($21, Savio Soares Selections):

Though Vouvray is usually thought of as a fruity, zesty still white wine, plenty of sparkling wine comes from that appellation as well. The Chenin Blanc-based bubbly is dry and cutting, not exactly the profile you’d necessarily expect from that usually fruity grape. Its almost austere quality is particularly refreshing and makes it a perfect match for a pork loin in a cream sauce.
88 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2016

Champalou, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($20, Kermit Lynch): This winery makes still and sparkling Vouvray. I haven't tried the still wine, and I wonder what it tastes like because this has barely any flavor at all. It's like drinking bubbles. That said, there's a time and a place for a wine this quiet, though $20 seems a stretch. 86 W. Blake Gray Dec 29, 2009

Jean Claude Dagueneau, Pouilly Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2012 ($25):

An exemplary example of what makes the eastern Loire Valley excel with Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is balanced and harmonious, with plenty of green fruit flavors, echoes of fresh herbs, and also as a flinty character that gains force in the finish. Whether this is due to the soils, the obviously talented winemaking, or something else makes little difference to those of us who simply want to enjoy this enticing grape variety in its most graceful, elegant form.
93 Paul Lukacs Jul 7, 2015

Domaine FL, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chenin” 2010 ($19, Daniel Johnnes Selection):

Domaine FL, short for Fournier-Longchamps, has threaded the needle with this wine made from Chenin Blanc. (French appellation laws generally prohibit grape names on labels. Hence, Le Chenin is the proprietary name of the wine.) The wine conveys the fruitiness and roundness -- almost a hint of sweetness -- that Chenin Blanc delivers supported by a lovely line of acidity that prevents it from being sweet. A refined combination, it’s a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif, and an excellent choice for spicy fare.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2014

Domaine Mosse, Anjou Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($22, Louis Dressner): I’m a sucker for good Chenin Blanc. When well made and on the dry side, it can be superb with any number of different foods, but it is also an excellent sipping and aperitif wine since it has just enough acidity to quicken the taste buds, plus a delicate core of sweetness to keep it from being too harsh on an empty stomach. Case in point: Mosse’s Anjou Blanc, which offers aromatic charm and discretion coupled with fresh and lively tastes and textures; the wine’s pronounced softness is counterbalanced by a firm grip on the finish. 89 Marguerite Thomas Sep 14, 2010

Domaine de L’Aujardière, Blanc Val de Loire IGP (Loire Valley, France) Fié Gris 2019 ($28, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Fié Gris is another name for Sauvignon Gris in the Loire Valley of France. It is a color mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, so its skin color is neither red, nor white, but pink. Apparently winemaker Eric Chevalier avoided skin contact in winemaking, because the wine has a very pale silver color. It is a delight to drink, with lemon-lime aromas and flavors balanced with crisp acidity. We happened to be having a particularly flavorful ham steak for dinner that had a bit of sweetness and which the wine’s fruit complemented, while its acidity refreshed our palates.
94 Rebecca Murphy Aug 29, 2023

Domaine Delaporte, Chavignol, Sancerre (France) 2016 ($29, Vineyard Brands):

Another winning Sancerre from Domaine Delaporte, the 2016 vintage is typically lean and lively, with good grapefruit, lemon and other citrus flavors. Like all excellent Sancerre it seesaws deftly between delicacy and a complex web of flavor and texture (in the form, most notably, of acid and chalky minerality). An additional bonus is its long finish.
92 Marguerite Thomas Aug 28, 2018

Domaine Sauger, Cheverny (Loire Valley, France) 2016 ($15, AP Wine Imports):

A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Chardonnay, as is permitted in the Cheverney appellation, this wine exhibits a supple texture along with crisp, fresh fruit flavors that resemble citrus fruits with a hint of green herbs. A fine value, it feels richer on the palate than pure Sauvignons from Sancerre or Pouilly, so arguably will prove more versatile at the table.
92 Paul Lukacs Apr 24, 2018

Domaine du Salvard, Cheverny (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

The appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé lead the litany of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs, but Sauvignon is grown successfully in other Loire sites as well. The appellation of Cheverny lies in Touraine, to the west of Sancerre, and is becoming recognized for its high-quality Sauvignon Blanc wines. The Delaille family has owned the Domaine du Salvard for five generations and blends in a bit of Chardonnay to make their excellent Cheverny Blanc. The 2020 bottling shows a wonderful combination of exuberant fruit and the distinctive herbal snap of Loire Sauvignon. It offers lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents are followed by hints of honeysuckle and fresh herbs. The flavors of mouthwatering citrus and apple fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal hints. The finish is pure, clean and dry. If you like the style of Sancerrre, give this superb Cheverny a try.
90 Wayne Belding Oct 26, 2021

François Cazin, Cheverny (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($23, LDM Wines):

Cheverny whites are typically Sauvignon Blanc dominant with a little Chardonnay blended in -- this one is 20% Chardonnay. This blending makes them more approachable because they lack the bracing acidity that many of the region’s neighbors highlight. This Cheverny showed a baked pear and floral nose with a lightly creamy body that displayed slate, saline, white blossom, and tree fruit. I would pair this delicious wine with the white bean casserole I’ve been wanting to make this winter.
90 Vince Simmon Dec 13, 2022

Hervé Villemade, Cheverny Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($16, Louis/Dressner Selections):

The appellation of Cheverny lies in the Upper Loire, just west of Sancerre, and is becoming known for its high-quality white wines. This wine is no exception. I found that this 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay blend shows mineral-infused richness that balances against fresh fruit and saline notes. Furthermore, the wine effectively balances crisp acidity with its fresh fruit notes and a bit of weigh from a 14.2% alcohol. Overall, this is a great year-around white wine. If you enjoy a crisp Sancerre, this is likely in your wheelhouse, and at a more affordable price.
90 Vince Simmon May 24, 2022

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Touraine, Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2017 ($25):

Though the vast majority (>95%) of wine from Chinon is red and made from Cabernet Franc, noteworthy and distinctive whites made from Chenin Blanc also carry that appellation. This is one of them. Couly-Dutheil is one of the top Chinon producers, making a bevy of easy-to-recommend reds year after year, so it should come as no surprise that they can make this stellar white wine. Cutting acidity in the finish balances and amplifies its peachy nuances. A lush texture and even the barest hint of stone fruit bitterness adds complexity and allure. It reminds us the Chenin Blanc planted in the right place and make into wine by the right people makes one of the world’s great wines.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2019

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2018 ($30, Cynthia Hurley French Wines):

White wine from Chinon is unusual since 95 percent of the appellation’s output is red. Couly-Dutheil, one of Chinon’s top domaines, consistently produces a fabulous example of white Chinon along with their stellar range of red Chinon wines. Made exclusively from Chenin Blanc, white Chinon combines the fruitiness of the grape with a distinct mineral component that growers there attribute to the chalky soil. Couly-Dutheil’s 2018 Les Chanteaux is stunning, delivering subtle peach-like nuances with bracing acidity that amplifies the wine’s charms. Refreshing and uplifting by itself, it’s also a great foil for roast pork or a spice-coated roast chicken.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2020

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) "Les Chanteaux" 2016 ($25):

The vast amount (95%) of wine made in Chinon, one of many picturesque villages in the Loire Valley, is red. Although limited, the amount of white, made from Chenin Blanc grapes, is increasing because of its immediate appeal to consumers. Couly-Dutheil, one of Chinon’s top producers and no newcomer to the region, has been making this delicious one for decades. Subtle peach-like notes buttressed with firm and bracing acidity create an intriguing interplay. A mouth-coating texture and the barest hint of sweetness in the finish make it an excellent choice with sushi or spiced Asian fare.
92 Michael Apstein May 8, 2018

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Baronnie Madeleine” 2008 ($25, Cynthia Hurley): This light to mid-weight red, made entirely from Cabernet Franc, is a good choice when you need a red wine this summer. Named after the winemaker’s grandmother, it combines delicate leafy undertones, fresh cherry-like flavors and minerality. Silky tannins allow immediate enjoyment. It’s a classy, polished wine. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2018 ($30, Elite Wine Imports):

Elegant, rich and seductive, this 100 percent Chenin Blanc offers fresh orange peel, fresh pear and melon on the nose. On the palate, ginger root and honey give way to bright acidity. This wine is quite a stunner. It is aromatic with beautiful texture in tandem with uplifting minerality and a fresh finish which lingers endlessly. It is a brilliant and unique expression of Chenin Blanc.
93 Miranda Franco Apr 20, 2021

Domaine Jourdan, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) "Croix Boissee" 2021 ($33, Vintage ’59 Imports):

The lip-smackingly delicious 2021 Croix Boissée Chenin Blanc opens with an enchanting nose of citrus blossom and hints of ripe pear, green apple, and a touch of flinty minerality. On the palate, the wine delivers on its aromatic promise with crisp acidity and layered flavors of green apple, Meyer lemon, and underripe peach. There is a delightful tension between the wine's vibrant fruitiness and its steely minerality, showcasing the unique terroir of the Chinon region. Though it is truly enjoyable on its own, this would be a real match for any rich course.
93 Miranda Franco Feb 13, 2024

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2009 ($25, Cynthia Hurley): White wine from Chinon is rare because the soil and climate is far more conducive to Cabernet Franc than to Chenin Blanc. But it’s worth

the search for this wine, not because of its rarity, but because of its unique character. Made from Chenin Blanc by one of the Chinon’s top producers, it has an ever so slightly waxy or lanolin-like texture coupled with a honey-like richness. But surprisingly, it’s devoid of sweetness. Cutting acidity keeps it clean and bright. The almost paradoxical interplay of crispness and richness makes you want to take another sip. A versatile wine, it goes well with a wide range of dishes, from pan-seared scallops to roast chicken. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011

Domaine Couly-Dutheil, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) Les Chanteaux 2010 ($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports): Cynthia Hurley is an “old-time” small importer whose name on a bottle is a guarantee of quality. Focusing exclusively on French wines, she relies on her judgment and palate, instead of point scores from critics, to find distinctive wines from small producers. It’s only that kind of importer who could find this kind of wine--a stellar white from Chinon (more than 95 percent of the wine from Chinon is red, made from Cabernet Franc). This one has richness and verve and delivers a touch of stone fruit flavors intermingled with that elusive quality, minerality. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012

Jean-Maurice Raffault, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2011 ($17, The Country Vintner): The vast majority of wines from Chinon, likely more than 95%, are red, so you don’t see many on retailers’ shelves. If you see this one, buy it. Made from Chenin Blanc, it’s entirely dry with vibrant stone fruit-like nuances. A cutting edge balances its good weigh and makes it a perfect choice for highly flavored Indian or Asian food.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 16, 2013

Moulin de Chauvigné, Coteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France) 2018 ($19, Deprez Wines):

Looking for a wine with a cheese course? Look no further. Producers in the Coteaux de Layon, a small appellation in the Loire, transform the Chenin Blanc grape into lush sweet wines, such as this one. Dark straw yellow, the wine delivers a honeyed richness first in its aromas and then on the palate. It’s not cloying or even sugary because of its bracing acidity. In addition to cheese, if you’re still eating foie gras or other rich patés, here’s the perfect wine. It’s a bargain to boot. And sweet wines such as this one will last at least a week open in the fridge, so you needn’t feel guilty about opening a bottle just to have a glass.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2022

Domaine des Baumard, Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de Sainte Catherine 2007 ($37, Vintus): Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France) 2007 ($37, Vintus): Baumard

is a genius with the Chenin Blanc grape, producing stellar dry wines--Savennières--and glorious sweet ones--Quarts des Chaumes and this single vineyard one from the Côteaux du Layon. The beauty of this wine is its racy acidity that enlivens it, keeps it fresh and balances the sweetness. Not at all cloying or heavy, the flavors of ripe peaches and apricots dance across the palate. Have a glass with cheese or as dessert, recork the bottle, keep it in the frig and repeat the following night. Its charms will delight you for a week. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011

Moulin Touchais, Coteaux-du-Layon (Loire Valley, France) 1985 ($65, Polaner): You read the vintage correctly. The Touchais family, which has owned vineyards in the Coteaux-du-Layon appellation since the 18th century, produces sweet wines from extremely ripe Chenin Blanc grapes that concentrate their sugars by drying on the vines (as opposed to being affected by Botrytis). After fermentation, they cellar the wines for at least a decade before releasing them. The 1985 Moulin Touchais has developed an extraordinary mixture of nutty and apricot-like flavors without being cloying. Vibrant acidity keeps it fresh and lively. It would be a superb choice to serve with a cheese course or by itself as dessert.
94 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013

Domaine du Haut Bourg, Côtes de Grandlieu (Loire Valley, France) Muscadet "Origine" 2002 ($16, Polaner Selections): Who says Muscadet doesn’t develop with age? This one is fresh, mineraly and mature all at the same time. Savory notes peek through, adding even more surprise and complexity. Despite all this, it retains the quintessential spark and vivacity of Muscadet. It’s an eye-opening wine that no wine lover should miss. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012

Domaine du Haut Bourg, Côtes de Grandlieu (Loire Valley, France) Muscadet 2011 ($11, Polaner Selections):

A small appellation between a lake and the Loire River, Côtes de Grandlieu is a much smaller and less well known subregion of Muscadet compared to Sèvre et Maine. Its location between two bodies of water entails a slightly warmer climate and explains why the wines tend to be just a touch riper than most Muscadet. This one certainly is. But it is still bracing and lively, as though someone added a squirt of lime. Vibrant and refreshing, it would perk up a plate of oysters. And look at the price! 89 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012

François Cazin, Cour-Cheverny (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($27, Louis/Dressner Selections):

Cour-Cheverny is a 73 hectare appellation within Cheverny that makes white wines from the Romorantin grape. François Cazin’s focuses on older vineyards with low yielding crops which gives the wine excellent depth of flavors ranging from red apple skins to dried apricot to fresh melon. The wine’s bright acidity makes it easy to pair with both creamy or oil-based dishes. At $27, this is an excellent wine to change up one’s white wine game.
91 Vince Simmon May 30, 2023

Langlois-Chateau, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Langlois Brut NV ($19, Paterno): This very, very classy sparkler is crafted from Chenin Blanc with a little Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc and then aged for a minimum of two years prior to release. The mousse is very soft and elegant, with bubble size seeming very small--quite like top class Champagne. The flavors are fresh but nuanced, with subtle, thoroughly integrated yeast notes adding complexity. Very impressive! 89 Michael Franz Jan 24, 2006

Les Maisons Rouges, Jasnières (Loire Valley, France) “Sur le Nez” Sec 2016 ($25, AP Wine Imports):

Jasnières, a tiny (161-acre) appellation, is well away from the river and the Loire’s northern-most outpost. Similar to Savennières, another lesser-known Loire appellation, Jasnières uses only Chenin Blanc to produce its steely, impressive white wines. Les Maison Rouges, founded almost 25 years ago, in 1994, has rapidly become one of the area’s top producers. This cuvée, Sur le Nez, named because it comes from two plots, one of which was planted over 100 years ago and a “younger” planted only 80+ years ago, that sit under the “nose” of the local rock formation. Dry and mineral-y, it has a texture that coats the mouth without being heavy. It’s a wonderfully pure and clean expression of Chenin grown on chalky/limestone soil. It’s deeper and richer than their other very fine cuvées, all of which frankly, are delicious and worth the effort to find. This is a producer to remember.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2018

Domaine Des Herbauges, Loire Valley (France) Grolleau Gris “Collection Terroir” 2017 ($15):

I had never tasted a wine made from Groleau Gris until a friend gave me a bottle of this Domaine des Herbauges recently, but I am happy now to add this grape to my list of white wines to look for. It has a very distinctive appearance (lightly grayish pink) and unique and appealing flavors that include grapefruit, a little peach, perhaps, and a touch of wet-pebble minerality. The wine is typically fairly low in alcohol (11.5% per volume in this case), and while not notably complex it is refreshingly tart and fruity. Unfined and unfiltered, it was aged in thermo-regulated glass tanks. Domaine des Herbauges has been in the hands of the Choblet family for five generations, and while the estate is known principally for its Muscat, wine lovers will surely be pleased to discover Grolleau Gris.
93 Marguerite Thomas Dec 10, 2019

M de Mulonnière, Loire Valley (France) Chenin Blanc 2015 ($15, Pasternak Wine Imports):

The second label for the Loire Valley’s Chateau de Mulonnière, “M” is a fresh and radiant white wine that brings a zing of uncluttered simplicity to the palate. It has a delicate floral aspect, hints of honeyed nuts and a subtle trace of chalky minerality. It will be a friendly companion to many seafood (especially shellfish) dishes, and also with food inspired by Asian seasoning (soy sauce, fish sauce, etc).
90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 2, 2016

Guy Saget, Loire Valley (France) ‘La Petite Perrière’ 2008 ($10, Pasternak Wine Imports): With clear Sauvignon Blanc character, this wine falls somewhere between the riper style common in California and the electrifying signature of the ones coming from the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Although it lacks the chalky minerality--and the price--of Saget’s Sancerre (also reviewed this week), it’s a good choice as a vibrant everyday kind of wine to complement take-out Thai food. 86 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010

Chavet, Menetou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc “La Côte” 2021 ($20, Vinspire Imports):

Crisp, dry, and elegant, this wine is also mouth-wateringly aromatic as it is packed with hints of citrus and stone-fruits (peach, nectarine). Chavet’s Menetou-Salon is a terrific choice to accompany oysters and other seafood, to enjoy with goat cheese, and also as an appetite-inducing aperitif. Menetou-Salon is a village sitting at the eastern edge of the Loire Valley region in classic Sauvignon Blanc territory (the Sancerre appellation lies just northeast of Menetou-Salon). This region has been producing wine since at least the mid-1400s.
93 Marguerite Thomas Feb 7, 2023

Domaine de Chatenoy, Menetou-Salon (Loire Valley) 2004 ($22, V.O.S. Selections): Menetou-Salon, a small village near Sancerre, also produces light-bodied red and rosé wines made from Pinot Noir, but is best-known for its white, a 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc. Domaine de Chatenoy, one of the best Menetou-Salon producers, conveniently makes its whites available in half-bottles as well. The 2004 is crisp and earthy, with minerally aromas plus tart pear and slightly honeyed flavors. Rich texture; quite full-bodied. 89 Ed McCarthy Apr 4, 2006

Domaine Jean Teiller, Menetou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2010 ($25, AP Wine Imports): Menetou-Salon, a small appellation near Sancerre, is a good place for consumers to find vibrant Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, like this one from Domaine Jean Teiller. Not just delivering grapefruit-tinged fruitiness, this conveys a mouth-watering chalky minerality. Good intensity and length adds to its distinctiveness and makes it easy to recommend. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012

Domaine de Chatenoy, Ménétou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($16, VOS Selections): Pierre Clement, the young winemaker of Domaine de Chatenoy, leaves his wine on its lees for an extra long time, which lends maximum extraction of fruit, aromas and flavors. His 2005 has flavors of pure grapefruit skin and apricot, with lots of concentration and minerality. State-of-the-art Ménétou-Salon. 90 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Domaine de Chatenôy, Ménétou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($20, VOS Selections): Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, notes that it’s sometimes difficult to distinguish wines from adjoining appellations in the Loire because of overlapping and similar soils. That observation explains why wines from Ménétou-Salon, a small--just over 1,000 acres, not even a fifth the size of Sancerre--and less prestigious appellation, are a good alternative to Sancerre, especially when made by a talented producer such as this one. Similar to Sancerre, all the white wines from Ménétou-Salon are made from Sauvignon Blanc. Also similar to Sancerre, this domaine’s vines sit on Kimmeridgian marl, which accounts for an attractive minerality that underpins the citrus bite. Focused and long, it’s an excellent buy and would be a good choice for cutting the humidity of a summer’s day. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 3, 2010

La Tour St.-Martin, Ménétou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) Morogues 2004 ($15, Jon-David Headrick Selections): The 2004 Ménétou-Salon Morogues exhibits piercing aromas of grapefruit skin and minerals, with a chalky texture and great depth. Its concentrated flavors linger on the finish. Quite full and rich for a Ménétou-Salon. 90 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Domaine Fournier, Ménétou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($20, David Milligan Selections): Ménétou-Salon is a small appellation just to the west of Sancerre that also requires use of Sauvignon Blanc for its white wines, which typically are a little softer and gentler than those of its more famous neighbor. Fournier, one of Sancerre’s top producers, also makes fine Ménétou-Salon. Clean and precise, this one has good mineral-like flavors and verve. An excellent choice for grilled swordfish. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011

Domaine Henri Pelle, Ménétou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) Morogues 2005 ($21, Michael Skurnik): This is expensive for a Ménétou-Salon, but Henri Pelle is a recognized leader in this district. Dry and clean, with a broad, slightly chalky character and lively acidity. 89 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Le Rocher des Violettes, Montlouis-sur-Loire (Loire Valley, France) “Les Borderies” 2009 ($24, Vintage ’59 Imports): A gorgeous Chenin rendered in a classic Loire style, this is notably sweet but never distractingly so, as the luscious fruit is focused and lifted by lots of bright, energetic acidity. Fruit flavors recalling peach pie filling could hardly be more appealing, and yet the sweetness is subtle and the wine never loses its edge. Few American consumers will recognize the appellation of Montlouis-sur-Loire, but nobody who tastes this wine will forget it. 91 Michael Franz Nov 9, 2010

Le Rocher des Violettes, Montlouis-sur-Loire (Loire Valley, France) "Cuvée Touche-Mitaine" Sec 2005 ($20, Vintage '59 Imports): Really great Chenin Blanc from the Loire is amazing stuff, but most American consumers get deflected from it by sugary Vouvrays or painfully expensive Savennières bottlings. This lovely bottling shows subtly flavored notes of stone fruits that is nicely offset by mineral notes and acidity that is so ripe and well integrated that it enlivens the wine without distracting from its flavor components. This bottling is made from Xavier Weisskopf's youngest Chenin parcels, but I slightly preferred it to the old vine "Cuvée La Négrette" Sec 2005 as a result of slightly greater vivacity. Both are superb and earn the same score, and neither was remotely diminished over the course of five days of tasting from open bottles left in my refrigerator. Amazing! 90 Michael Franz Feb 20, 2007

Le Rocher des Violettes, Montlouis-sur-Loire (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Touche-Mitaine” 2008 ($22, Vintage ’59 Imports):

Steer clear of this if you don’t love high-acid wines, but steer straight toward it if you do enjoy them, as this is just about as crisp and intense a rendering of Chenin Blanc as you’re likely to find. It shows subtle aromatic notes of honey and ripe melon, and delicate flavors that echo these same notes, but then the driving acidity takes over totally, with citrus and tart apple notes eclipsing all of the riper flavors sensations. Loire Chenins are rarely finished dry due to the intensity of their structure, but this is a dry one with amazing definition and cut. Pair now with raw oysters or lay it down for a few years to catch it at a lower voltage with some secondary aromas and flavors. 89 Michael Franz Nov 9, 2010

Le Rocher des Violettes, Mountlouis-sur-Loire (Loire Valley, France) “Touche-Mitaine” 2021 ($28):

Mountlouis-sur-Loire lies across the Loire River from Vouvray and uses the same Chenin Blanc grape for its captivatingly delicious wines. Similar in style to Vouvray, they vary from dry, like this one, to sweet. A waiter at GrandCoeur, an exceptional new-wave bistro in the Marais section of Paris, recommended this one to me. Am I glad he did! It displays great depth — minerals and the barest hint of green apple-like fruitiness — amplified by cutting crispness that carries into the lengthy finish. It shows the heights that Chenin Blanc planted in the right place can achieve. Stock up on this refreshing white for summer.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2024

Jérémie Huchet, Muscadet (Loire Valley, France) "Les Montys le Parc" 2018 ($20, Old World Imports):

This is a refreshing, pure and clean white from the Pays Nantais at the western end of the Loire River Valley. Les Montys is a reference to the low hills, formed of primary rock soils, where Jérémie Huchet tends his organic Muscadet vines. The happy result in 2018 is a Muscadet with considerably more richness and roundness than the norm. The 2018 Les Montys le Parc Muscadet has an attractive bouquet of delicate flowers, lemon zest, ripe pear and fresh-bread yeastiness. Clean and lively on the palate, the ripe lemon and pear fruits are enhanced by the yeasty richness and a crisp and dry finish. It’s a delicious and refreshing match for fresh seafood dishes.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 4, 2020

Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu (Loire Valley, France) Clos de la Senaigerie 2008 ($13, Michael Skurnick Wines): I hear the skeptics. A four-year-old Muscadet from what subregion? Côtes de Grandlieu is a far smaller subregion within Muscadet than the more famous Sèvre et Maine. It’s a slightly warmer area because its stony soil acts as a heat pump at night and its location between the Loire a large lake moderates the climate. Hence, the wines tend to be riper and richer while still retaining the signature Muscadet vivacity. More full bodied than most Muscadet, this one is still vigorous with mouth cleansing acidity. Lots of savory notes appear, presumably from the extra bottle age, but its incredible acidity keeps it fresh and lively. It’s a wonderfully complex Muscadet that shatters the idea that they can’t develop with age. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2012

Domaine du Haut Bourg, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2013 ($12, Polaner Selections):

This is a refreshing white from vineyards in the Pays Nantais -- where the Loire River empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The Côtes de Grandlieu is an area at the heart of the Muscadet region, surrounding the large Lac de Grandlieu. The Domaine du Haut Bourg lies in the commune of Bouaye, on the north shore of the lake. Their 30 to 60 year old vines benefit from the moderating influence of the lake as well as the granite and schist soils of the area. The 2013 Muscadet has an attractive bouquet of lemon zest, fresh-bread yeast and delicate flowers. Clean and lively on the palate, the citrus fruits are enhanced by the yeasty richness and a crisp and dry finish. It’s a perfect wine to pair with fresh seafood dishes.
89 Wayne Belding May 5, 2015

Domaine de Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2009 ($13, Skurnik): As a seafood lover, I personally am pleased to see that the prices of Muscadet have risen far slower than their quality. Sure, there are plenty of insipid, hollow Muscadets on the market, but when you find a stellar one like this one from Domaine de Herbauges, you can’t help but wonder why they’re not more expensive. Linear and focused, with a pleasant bite, this Muscadet--from the less well-known sub region of Côtes de Grandlieu--has surprising body and length. Steamed mussels, watch out. 88 Michael Apstein May 25, 2010

Le Fils des Gros Moutons, Muscadet de Sevre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) 2010 ($13, Vintage '59 Imports): Muscadet can be a quite simple wine, refreshing but uncomplicated, a simple quaff to enjoy with light fare, especially seafood. Occasionally, however, it’s much more complex, with vivid citrus fruit flavors and a distinctly nutty, mineral-tinged undertone. In such cases, Muscadet is very much a wine to value for itself, and not just as a thirst-quenching food partner. This particular example, which sports a delightfully low price tag, is just that. An ideal warm weather choice, it provides quite sophisticated, even sumptuous pleasures. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 7, 2012

Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($15, Vineyard Brands):

Also known at “Black Label,” this is Château de la Ragotière’s top Muscadet, made from 50 year old vines. Yes, it’s bracing as Muscadet should be. But it has a lovely texture and depth--it must be the old vines speaking--that is lacking in most Muscadet. It’s a winning combination to cut through the heat and humidity of summer. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012

Domaine de la Quilla, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie 2005 ($12, Robert Kacher Selections): The most distinctive wines from Muscadet, a large area at the western end of the Loire River where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean, come from the Sèvre et Maine sub region. The Sur Lie designation means that the wine ages on the spent yeast lees for a brief period which adds complexity (and, most importantly, keeps the wine fresh because the yeast act as an antioxidant protecting the wine). The 2005 Domaine de la Quilla is one of the best Muscadets I've had. Bright and fresh, it has both length and alluring minerality, qualities not often found at this price. It's an ideal wine with raw shellfish or delicate seafood. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006

Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Les Vieilles Vignes 2020 ($16, Vineyard Brands):

The Château de la Ragotière Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine is a refreshing white from vineyards in the Pays Nantais – where the Loire River empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The Sèvre et Maine district is the best growing area in the wider Muscadet region. The Château de la Ragotière is a top estate for Muscadet production. Their 30-60 year-old vines are tended with organic methods and the wine is aged on the fine lees for 10 months. The result is a Muscadet with a bit more richness and roundness than most. The 2020 Château de la Ragotière Muscadet has an attractive bouquet of lemon zest, green apple, fresh-bread yeast and delicate flowers. Clean and lively on the palate, the ripe citrus and green apple fruits are enhanced by the yeasty richness and a crisp and dry finish. If you have fresh seafood on the menu, you might consider pairing it with a delicious white wine like this.
90 Wayne Belding Feb 14, 2023

Domaine de la Pépière, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) "La Pépie" 2019 ($18, Louis/Dressner):

If you have fresh seafood on the menu, you might consider pairing it with a delicious white wine like this. The La Pépie Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine is a refreshing white from vineyards in the Pays Nantais – where the Loire River empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The Sèvre et Maine district is the best growing area in the wider Muscadet region. The Domaine de la Pépière is a top estate for Muscadet production. Their organically grown vines are planted in sandy, granitic soils and they purchase a small amount of fruit for this bottling from their neighbors. The result is a Muscadet with a bit more richness and roundness than the norm. The 2019 La Pépie Muscadet has an attractive bouquet of lemon zest, pear, fresh-bread yeast and delicate flowers. Clean and lively on the palate, the ripe citrus and pear fruits are enhanced by the yeasty richness and a crisp and dry finish.
90 Wayne Belding Jan 12, 2021

Domaine de la Pépière, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($18, Louis/Dressner):

The La Pépie Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine is a refreshing white from vineyards in the Pays Nantais – where the Loire River empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The Sèvre et Maine district is the best growing area in the wider Muscadet region. The Domaine de la Pépière is a top estate for Muscadet production. Their organically grown vines are planted in sandy, granitic soils and they purchase a small amount of fruit for this bottling from their neighbors. The result is a Muscadet with a bit more richness and roundness than most. The 2020 La Pépie Muscadet has an attractive bouquet of lemon zest, green apple, fresh-bread yeast and delicate flowers. Clean and lively on the palate, the ripe citrus and green apple fruits are enhanced by the yeasty richness and a crisp and dry finish. If you have fresh seafood on the menu, you might consider pairing it with a delicious white wine like this.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 31, 2021

Remy Pannier, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2010 ($11, Palm Bay International): Muscadet remains one of the bargain sections of any wine list or wine shop. Located on the Atlantic coast on the western end of the Loire River, its wines have been paired traditionally with the local seafood. The sur lie designation means the wine stays on the spent yeast, which acts as an anti-oxidant and preserves freshness and verve. Pannier’s is particularly enticing because it combines a steely element with crisp citrus edginess. Open a bottle the next time you’re steaming clams or mussels. At 11 bucks, you will be very happy. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012

Sauvion et Fils, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (Loire Valley, France) Château du Cléray "Haut Culture" 2003 ($12, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): The reputable Muscadet firm, Sauvion, makes four different Muscadet wines from its Sèvre et Maine vineyards: its standard Muscadet retails for a mere $7; its Carte d'Or, $9; its Château du Cléray, $10, and this wine, its top-of-the-line Château du Cléray "Haut Culture," from the best part of its vineyards, $12. Although all four are quite good, the top two, the Château du Cléray and "Haut Culture" wines, are the ones to buy. The '03 "Haut Culture" is rich and quite full for a Muscadet, partly caused by the unusually warm weather in the region in 2003. The wine zings with the quintessential Muscadet citrusy aromas and flavors, and has crisp acidity. A really fine Muscadet. Try it with filet of sole, or its classic partner, oysters. 89 Ed McCarthy Aug 8, 2005

Sauvion et Fils, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château du Cléray 2003 ($10, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): I'm not a fan of most 2003 white wines from Europe because the scorching summer robbed them of acidity. But it's hard to kill the acid in the Melon de Bourgogne, the grape from which Muscadet is made. Muscadet, which can often be a little lean, benefited from the extreme heat and the little extra ripeness in 2003. That ripeness and its citric acidity makes this one a great accompaniment to simple seafood, like steamed clams. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005

Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet Serve-et-Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie Selection Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($14, Vineyard Brands): This aromatic wine is bracing and refreshing, as Muscadet should be, but delivers far more substance and weight than most. There’s almost a touch of salinity, but the most distinctive aspect is the wines density and complexity, which likely reflects the old vines. It’s full of character and a great buy. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 5, 2010

Jo Landron, Muscadet Serve-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “La Louvetrie” 2014 ($13, Martin Scott): Muscadet remains one of the great bargains for white wines because it still has a down-market image despite the work and talents of producers, such as Jo Landron who, along with this wife, owns the Domaine de la Louvetrie. To be fair, over the years there’s been a lot of innocuous Muscadet on the market, which accounts for its lowly image. But that has changed, in part because of Landron’s efforts. Still, the price has not caught up with the quality. This Muscadet, from Serve-et-Maine, considered by many to be the best sub-region, is a great introduction to the appellation for those who are leery of it. It’s also a great wine for those who already know the charms of Muscadet. The sur lie designation means the wine aged on its lees, a technique that adds body and texture to this clean, cutting wine with a scintillating bite. The zesty lemon-like finish makes it perfect for steamy August days or as an accompaniment to oysters at any time of the year.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2016

Domaine de la Quilla, Muscadet Sevre & Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($15):

This fresh, lively and creamy, smooth white wine with citrus fruit and crisp acidity from the Loire Valley is the perfect wine to serve as an aperitif or with fresh seafood at the table. At this price you can serve it for a party. The smooth texture is the result of Sur Lie, a process of allowing the newly fermented wine to spend 7 to 10 months of maturing on the fine lees, the expired yeast cells. Melon de Bourgogne is the primary grape variety in Muscadet wine. According to Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, et al., the grape, as the name suggests, was cultivated in Burgundy as early as the thirteenth century. It made it to the Loire Valley under the name of Plant de Bourgogne where it then became known as Muscadet. The Muscadet Sevre & Maine appellation is named for two tributaries of the Loire River.
94 Rebecca Murphy Sep 19, 2023

Bougrier Famille, Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château du Jaunay 2021 ($15, Saranty Imports):

This is a fresh and crisp example of a Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie. The lees aging — sur lie — provides extra richness and a little body to melon, pear, and dried floral notes in this dry white wine. At $15, this is an easy, stress free choice for an end-of-the-night white wine or a weeknight bottle.
88 Vince Simmon Jan 24, 2023

Clos de la Fontaine, Muscadet Sevre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Vieilles Vignes” 2005 ($13, Elite Imports): Unlike so many Muscadets, which taste like little more than sour acid water, this wine offers sumptuous but delicate flavors that hint at apples, pears and citrus, with distinct minerality enhancing the fruit. It will pair deliciously with light fare, particularly shellfish. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 6, 2007

Domaine Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Terre de Pierre” 2020 ($25):

Luneau-Papin, one of the top producers in the Muscadet region, farms all their vineyards organically and biodynamically. They have may bottlings, each of which focuses on the unique soil, exposure, and microclimate of the specific site. This one, Terre de Pierre, comes from the La Butte de la Roche site whose red ochre earth is “legendary” in the area, according to their website. The 2020, a unique impression of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, conveys a depth not usually associated with Muscadet (maybe that’s the red ochre earth speaking) along with the expected energy and vibrancy of the appellation. It is a reminder of the heights Muscadet can achieve when in the right hands. And, by the way, it’s a great value.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2022

Domaine de la Fessardière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($20, Paris Wine Company):

If you seek a crisp, refreshing and dry white, you might consider a wine like this. The Domaine de la Fessardière Muscadet is a refreshing white from vineyards in the Pays Nantais – where the Loire River empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The Sèvre et Maine district is the best growing area in the wider Muscadet region. The Domaine de la Fessardière is a relatively new estate in the region. Their organically grown vines are planted in stony, clay soils. The wines are aged in large, neutral oak foudres. The result is a Muscadet with a bit more richness and roundness than the norm. It has an attractive bouquet of lemon zest, pear, fresh-bread yeast and delicate flowers. Clean and lively on the palate, the ripe citrus and pear fruits are enhanced by the yeasty richness and a crisp and dry finish.
90 Wayne Belding May 17, 2022

Guy Saget, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Les Clissages d’Or” 2008 ($16): Clissage d’Or delivers a shock of cool, vibrant, briny pleasure, like tongue-kissing an oyster. It throbs with citric juices, and ends on a frisson of flavor as pure and cleansing as a sea breeze. With its modest 12% alcohol level and $16 pricetag, this wine provides virtually guilt-free pleasure. Clissage d’Or falls very close to the ideal of perfect Muscadet. 90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 17, 2010

Louis Métaireau, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Carte Noire” 2010 ($16, Martine Wines): Métaireau is one of Muscadet’s best and most consistent producers. And this wine reflects his considerable talents. With an unusual ripeness for Muscadet, it still delivers a bracing Granny Smith apple-like vibrancy typical of the appellation. Mineraly and long, it shows that Muscadet can produce wines with considerable complexity. It’s a great choice for grilled fish, sushi, or shellfish. And what a bargain! 90 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012

Vignobles Gunther-Chéreau, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) "Les Vergers" Sur Lie 2016 ($20):

This wine shows that Muscadet, especially those from the subregion Sèvre et Maine, can develop with bottle age. Most often, consumers think Muscadet should be consumed young with shellfish or other seafood. And that’s correct. Muscadet is a delightful — and affordable — wine for seafood. But, as this one shows, a few years of bottle age add depth without reducing its vibrancy. Still energetic, this wine has developed and conveys subtle mineral-like flavors. It’s another great choice for sushi.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 11, 2020

Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($14, Vineyard Brands): This is the more "serious," black label, old vine Muscadet from Château de la Ragotière. Notably more concentrated and substantial than its white label stablemate, it features riper fruit and a rounder feel, but remains very crisp and refreshing. It starts with nice aromatic nuances of herbs and minerals, and these show up in the finish as well, making for a symmetrical experience that is very satisfying for a Muscadet but still in line with the fresh, bracing profile of a classic rendition. 89 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Domaine du Grand Mouton, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) "Sur Lie" 2016 ($21, Vintage ’59 Imports):

Wines from the Muscadet area, the far west of the Loire Valley, especially those from the sub-region Sèvre et Maine, are fabulous with simple seafood, such as oysters or steamed clams. Louis Métaireau’s Grand Mouton is a “go-to” Muscadet Sèvre et Maine for just such fare. The Sur Lie designation means that the wine was aged on the ‘lees’ (dead yeast), which imparts freshness and the extract zing for which this category is known. The 2016 Grand Mouton delivers plenty of the mouth-cleansing zesty character with a welcome density.
89 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2018

Chateau de la Ragotière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie 2004 ($12, Vineyard Brands): Still thrillingly fresh and crisp, this features wonderful, snappy green apple fruit with nice mineral accents that lend complexity to the finish. Quite light in body but nevertheless rather intense in overall impression thanks to it driving acidity, this is a great choice for almost any delicate seafood dish. 88 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2006

Clos de la Fontaine, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes 2007 ($16, Elite Wines Imports): A light, lithe white that tastes of spring--cool and crisp with a core of warmth--this Muscadet will show best if paired with dishes that themselves are very light (fresh shellfish, for example, with no accompaniment). With so little heft, it feels airy. That's its charm, but also its challenge. 88 Paul Lukacs Feb 24, 2009

Domaine Claude Branger, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) "Terroir Les Gras Moutons" Sur Lie 2004 ($16, Vintage '59 Imports):

This wine could totally revise your sense of Muscadet if you've never tasted a bottling that tries to achieve something more than being a neutral backdrop for a plate of oysters. Notably more concentrated than the Muscadet norm, with admirably ripe apple fruit and nice mineral accents, it is nevertheless quite refreshing and lifted in profile. 88 Michael Franz Feb 20, 2007

Jean Dumont, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) 2009 ($10, J.W. Sieg & Co.): A light, crisp Muscadet that tastes bright and zesty, with hints of toasted nuts underneath its tart apple and citrus fruit flavors, this wine offers excellent value. Just be sure to pair it with equally light supper fare, as heavy dishes surely will overwhelm its charms. 88 Paul Lukacs Apr 19, 2011

Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie 2005 ($13, Vineyard Brands): This excellent Muscadet producer has two bottlings, and this offering (which sports a white label) is the lighter and zestier of the two. Taut and tightly focused, it features green apple fruit with a light mineral undertone, just a bit of spritzy sparkle, and lots of refreshing acidity. Pass the oysters! 87 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

La Pépière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Monnières-Saint Fiacre (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($32):

The appellation needs some explanation. But first, what needs no explanation is La Pépière, one the finest producers of Muscadet. They are so consistent, it is safe to say if you see their name on a label, you should buy the wine. And Muscadet Sèvre et Maine needs no explanation because it is well known as the top sub-area of the greater Muscadet region, which surrounds where the Loire River meets the Atlantic Ocean. But what is Monnières-Saint Fiacre, and why am I enthusiastic about a five-year old Muscadet, a wine that is typically drunk within a year or two of the harvest? The French wine authorities have identified several villages (crus), like Monnières-Saint Fiacre, within Muscadet Sèvre et Maine that are capable of producing exceptional wine that must be aged longer before bottling. This impeccably balanced and racy one from La Pépière combines depth and minerality with a chiseled backbone of acidity that makes it a joy to drink. With seafood, of course — it is Muscadet — but also with practically anything, even beef, because its edginess will cut through anything on the table.
95 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2024

Claude Branger, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Le Fils des Gras Moutons” 2016 ($13, Vintage ’59 Imports):

Claude Branger along with his wife, Thérèse, and son, Sébastien, run this family property, also known as Domaine Haut Févrie. They are an exceptional team, insisting on hand harvesting, which is unusual in Muscadet, and committed to converting fully to organic production. They make a range of Muscadet, from this one blended from a variety of vineyards, to more substantial ones from individual plots. This is an excellent and well-priced introduction to their style. It delivers unusual -- for Muscadet -- concentration and a flinty quality without sacrificing the vibrant and lively signature of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie. It’s another fine choice for August’s heat and humidity.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2018

Bedouet, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Le Domaine” 2021 ($15):

From his family vineyard established in 1899, Michel Bedouet has been farming the family’s 30 acres of vineyards organically since 2010. For the fermentation, he uses naturally occurring yeast. The “Le Domaine” bottling is his entry level version. This 100% Melon de Bourgogne is a fine example of why Muscadet is a perfect companion for seafood. It is crisp with vibrant melon and citrus aromas, and it is medium bodied, firm, with light yeasty and refreshing green fruit and melon flavors. A lemon zest note in the aftertaste adds to its ideal pairing with seafood, especially oysters.
90 Norm Roby Sep 12, 2023

Domaine du Fief aux Dames, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($15, USA Wine West):

This is a great summer wine that punches well above its weight at $15. I found the refreshing acidity and minerality balanced nicely against notes of yellow apples and tree fruit. As a “Sur Lie” wine, this wine undergoes aging on its “lees” (post fermentation yeast) which provides a rounded and lightly creamy mouthfeel that really sets this wine apart. It pairs perfectly with oysters but is equally drinkable on its own. Personally, I enjoy this wine at both the start or end of my evening.
90 Vince Simmon Apr 12, 2022

Château de la Ragotiere, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Selection Vieilles Vignes” 2008 ($14, Vineyard Brands):

Muscadet remains one of the bargain wines in the world. True, many can be thin and vapid. But when they have depth and concentration, like this one, their lemony acidity just amplifies their pleasure. An appealing chalky earthy character accompanies its citrus qualities. But its main virtue is a lovely depth that makes it a marvelous choice for briny shellfish or simply grilled fish. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2011

Domaine de la Grenaudière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2016 ($10, North Berkeley Wine):

Recommending a wine for summertime consumption with the thermometer in single digits and a foot of snow of the ground may be a new definition of optimism. But the quality/price ratio here makes me want to buy this wine before it disappears. Muscadet is overlooked, often for good reason because of the vapid ones, as a wonderful source of bright zesty light white wine. This one should be on everyone’s radar because it has good concentration and depth along with verve and energy. To be sure, there are not layers of flavors and opulence, but look at the price! Its lively cutting profile makes it perfect for shellfish, such as oysters or steamed mussels, and simply grilled fish.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 23, 2018

Domaine de la Pepière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2009 ($13, Louis Dressner): Muscadet is one of those regions whose good wines are terribly under-priced for the enjoyment they deliver. The character-filled wines, like this one from the subregion of Sèvre-et-Maine, suffer from the reputation of many that are vapid and hollow. This one, bracing and lively, has a subtle saline-tinged edge to its citrus finish. With greater length than most, it screams for shellfish this summer. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2011

Domaine de la Pepière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) "Clos des Briords" 2006 ($15, Louis/Dressner): You really can't go wrong choosing a Loire Valley wine imported by the oh-so-reliable importer, Louis/Dressner. The '06 Muscadet from Domaine de la Pepière, Clos des Briords, has so much great fresh fruit, especially for a usually lean Muscadet! It is fresh, lively, and delicious. A fantastic wine to accompany your seafood or fish entrée. 91 Ed McCarthy Oct 9, 2007

Domaine Claude Branger, Muscadet Sèvre et Marne (Loire Valley, France) "Le Fils des Gras Moutons" 2016 ($16, Vintage ‘59):

Beautifully crisp and dry, with fetching hints of green apple and marine minerality, this wine offers a uniquely refined expression of the Gros Melon grape. The vineyards are farmed without the use of chemical fertilizers, and the grapes were hand harvested. The wine sits on its lees until bottling, which is part of the reason it tastes so fresh and vibrant. It’s an excellent wine to pair with just about any kind of seafood -- I had it most recently with fresh oysters, which was a sublime pairing indeed.
92 Marguerite Thomas Mar 6, 2018

Domaine de la Fruitière, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Petit M” 2005 ($10, USA Wine Imports): Muscadet is all too often so lean and mean that it appeals only to the most ardent devotees of the genre. La Fruitière's version is a pleasant contrast to the norm, with enough flavor and body to keep one's mouth from puckering. Don't worry, it's still mighty tart, and it has the strong minerality one looks for in Muscadet. It's as if the winemaker had wrung out the very essence of the stony, granite soil in which the Melon de Bourgogne, Muscadet's grape, grows. One reason for this wine's success may be the age of the Fruitière vines, which can range from a quarter to a half century old. The wine costs a lot less than the oysters you're going to want to have with it. 89 Marguerite Thomas Aug 14, 2007

Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie 2006 ($10, Vineyard Brands): Muscadet is known for its racy acidity-there's no shortage here-but what sets this wine apart is its minerality and texture that persists into the finish. It has more body than the typical Muscadet. Not a friendly 'sipping' wine, it's perfect with steamed shellfish dipped in butter. A fabulous buy! 88 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008

Domaine de la Tourmaline, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2013 ($12, Cognac One): Open the trunk of your car and load in a case of this wine to combat the heat and humidity of August. As expected from Muscadet, it is bright and fresh with an almost prickly acidity that is truly mouth cleansing. Unexpectedly, it has more weight and body than many Muscadet, which makes it a great choice for steamed clams or simply grilled fish. An unbelievable value. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2014

Sauvion, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château de Cléray 2009 ($15, WJ Deutsch): Every time I taste a Muscadet of this quality I wonder why the category is under-appreciated and the wines so inexpensive. Sure, there are

underachievers in Muscadet making vapid wine, but probably no more than in most regions. Sauvion, one of the Loire’s leading négociants, is based in the heart of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine region. This wine, from their home vineyards at the Château de Cléray, is their best Muscadet (and it’s still only $15). Although it has the expected penetrating acidity of Muscadet, it has unexpected depth. Light and refreshing, it delivers hints of green apples and lemony notes. Try this snappy wine with shellfish, such as steamed clams or sautéed scallops. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011

Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Premier Cru de Château” 2009 ($15, Vineyard Brands): Muscadet, especially from the Sèvre-et-Maine subregion, remains an under appreciated source of bright and zesty unoaked wines. This one, from one of the area’s leading producers, comes from 50-year old vines, which helps explain its fascinating complexity. Mineraly, flinty even, it has uncommon (for Muscadet) depth and length. It would be perfect when summertime dinner calls for a large pot of steamed clams or mussels. You’d be hard pressed to find more enjoyment in a 15-dollar wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011

Sauvion, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château du Cléray 2010 ($15, W J Deutsch): Sur lie means the wine has been kept on the lees (dead yeast), which act as an anti-oxidant keeping the wine fresh and lively, until bottling. That may explain why the 2010 Château du Cléray is even snappier at this stage than the 2009 (previously reviewed). A bracing flintiness complements the lemony tang and lends real substance. If more Muscadet had this kind of character, the whole category would have a better reputation. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 6, 2011

Les Clissages d’Or, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($12, Pasternak Wine Imports): The Clissages d’Or label is a part of the estate of Guy Saget, the very talented Loire producer, and represents their best vats of Muscadet. And it is very good Muscadet, indeed. It delivers the bracing vibrant--almost tooth rattling--acidity of Muscadet, but with an enticing chalky element and depth. And with surprising length. Hard to beat at 12 bucks, it would make a good zesty accompaniment to a platter of shellfish. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011

Patient Cottat, Pays du Val de Loire (France) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($14, Vineyard Brands): It’s a delicate whisper of a wine but don’t let that lacey filigree mislead you, for Patient Cottat still delivers surprising flavor and texture. The unexpected depth of character is due to both the winemaker’s sensitive approach and the maturity of the vines, which are more than 30 years old. The most significant component here is that chalky trace of minerality that one often finds in wine made from grapes grown in the limestone soils characteristic of the Loire region.
89 Marguerite Thomas Aug 26, 2014

Jonathan Didier Pabiot, Pouilly Fumé (Loire Valley, France) “Léon” 2020 ($30, Polaner Selections):

A serious Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is tasty on its own or as an accompaniment to shellfish, seafood, poultry, pork, pasta, vegetarian dishes — well, you get the idea. It is low in alcohol (13%), with enticing aromatics, and is elegant and complex on the palate. The grapes are biodynamically raised, and the wine was aged in stainless steel, concrete and oak barrels. Jonathan Pabiot was the first producer to farm his estate organically. This cuvée was named after the owner’s son. By the way, if you aren’t familiar with Pouilly Fumé, it is the appellation name for this elite sub-region's Sauvignon Blanc.
93 Marguerite Thomas Oct 25, 2022

Dominique Pabiot, Pouilly Fumé (Loire Valley, France) “Les Vielles Terres” 2015 ($22, Siema):

Overall crisp and juicy, with forthright impressions of pink grapefruit, lime peel and a wisp of chalky minerality. The wine flows smoothly across the palate, then finishes with just the right little snap of incisive acidity.
91 Marguerite Thomas Dec 19, 2017

Domaine Denis Gaudry, Pouilly Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($21, Vineyard Brands): Denis Gaudry, whose family has been making Pouilly Fumé for several generations, characteristically turns out wines that are not only appropriately flinty and smoky (fumé), but are also charged with vivacity -- just like this luscious one. 90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 6, 2007

Domaine Denis Gaudry, Pouilly Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2004 ($18, Vineyard Brands): Although the vintage date on this makes one wonder where the 2005 is lurking, this delicious, intensely mineral wine will help me stay patient in the meantime. Tart apple and lime fruit is still crisp and fresh thanks to a spine of energetic acidity, but the real attraction here is the flinty, mineral notes that mark both the aroma and the finish. Just when it seems that Marlborough is going to take over the world, a bottle like this seems to come along and show that the Old World will not go quietly. 90 Michael Franz Jun 20, 2006

Domaine Denis Gaudry, Pouilly Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($21, Vineyard Brands): Mineral to the hilt, this is an impressive and interesting wine that also offers a lot of pure pleasure. Quite light in body but hardly lacking for aroma or flavor, this shows tightly focused fruit with edging from flinty minerals and citrus acidity. 90 Michael Franz Sep 5, 2006

J. de Villebois, Pouilly Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2018 ($26, Vineyard Brands):

People often ask what is the difference between Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Regulations require that both wines are made exclusively from Sauvignon Blanc. Sancerre is on the west bank of the Loire while Pouilly sur Loire, the town that gives the wine its name, is about 10 miles away on the east bank of the river. Since J. de Villebois makes both wines consumers can compare and see, or in this case, taste the difference. Villebois’ Pouilly Fumé is slightly more suave than their Sancerre. Though it has a fraction less electricity -- making it a touch more subdued -- by comparison, it still has a great cutting edginess to it. It’s a good trade-off.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 11, 2020

Le Domaine Saget, Pouilly-Fume (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($33, Pasternak Wine Imports): With an engaging counterpoint of creaminess to the pungency of Sauvignon Blanc, this Pouilly-Fumé is beautifully refined and balanced. The classy creaminess does not come from oak because the wine is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel vats. So it must be a combination of careful selection of grapes—it’s entirely estate fruit—the use of wild instead of commercial yeast, and lees aging. A haunting minerality announces this is not just Sauvignon Blanc speaking, but rather Sauvignon Blanc planted in the small, 2,500-acre, appellation of Pouilly-Fumé. Zesty citrus notes allow you to continue to drink it without tiring. 93 Michael Apstein May 18, 2010

J. de Villebois, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2021 ($31, Vineyard Brands):

This producer has been turning out some of the Loire’s finest wines during the past few vintages, including multiple bottlings from different sites and soils in Sancerre, less expensive Touraine-designated wines, very fine Pinot and Rosé, and this terrific Pouilly-Fumé. It is wonderfully fragrant, with scents of ripe fruit as well as more traditional grassy and herbal undertones. The flavors are expressive and generous, with melon and orchard fruit notes edged with citrus-like acidity that sharpens the delineation of the flavors and freshens the finish. There is some subtle but still notable minerality too, making this a complete and exemplary rendition from this relatively small appellation across the Loire River from Sancerre. Seriously: Commit the name J. de Villebois to memory, as this house is among the fastest-rising stars in all of France.
93 Michael Franz Sep 26, 2023

J. de Villebois, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($31, Vineyard Brands):

During a span of only about 18 months, this company has flown under the radar — or at least my radar — into the USA and gone from an utter unknown to one of the most impressive producers in France’s entire Loire Valley. I like surprises as much as the next guy, but as regards expertise in my field, I’m a bit embarrassed about being snuck up on so cleverly. A bit of digging on the importer’s website provides an introduction stating that, “J. de Villebois is a family winery owned by Joost and Miguela de Willebois. Over the last 15 years, Villebois has become one of the leading Sauvignon Blanc producers in the Loire Valley with a unique range of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir wines cultivated in its own vineyards.” Okay, that makes me feel a bit better, as 15 years is only a nanosecond across the span of wine time in France, so let’s get to this wine. It seems to have arrived about 6 months later than the J. de Villebois 2019 Sancerre, which won a placement in all 12 of the restaurants for which I consult after a taste-off against 18 other Sancerre wines available at the wholesale level in DC, and this Pouilly-Fumé is even better, if notably different in style. Quite rich and rounded, rather than taut and mineral, it is a very generous rendition of Sauvignon Blanc, with remarkable depth of flavor and full ripeness that brings out Sauvignon’s melon-y side, as opposed to its citrus-y side, and indeed there’s even a suggestion of tropical fruits that seem even riper than the melon notes. Yet there’s good varietal character thanks to subtle herbal scents and a streak of lemony acidity, and the wine has good freshness and length. Still, for a Sauvignon-based wine from the Loire, this is remarkable for how much “bass” as opposed to “treble” you sense in the mix. This is a deal at the $31 price suggested by the importer, so don’t be hesitant about paying that if the full price is asked. This actually shows the palate weight of Grand Cru Chablis, to offer some context, and though you could certainly enjoy it with oysters on the half shell, it has sufficient substance to make me hanker for langoustines sautéed in white wine and butter. Damned impressive wine.
93 Michael Franz Feb 16, 2021

Jean Claude Dagueneau, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) Domaine des Berthie 2013 ($22, Vineyard Brands): This is a graceful, slinky wine that charms on its own or in the company of food. Yes, there is fruit (pear, apple) but the distinguishing characteristic is the wine’s scintillating gravelly minerality that refreshes and invigorates the palate again and again. Also impressive is the gentle tweak of preserved lemon on the finish--it’s a little salty, a little citrusy, and altogether very satisfying. 93 Marguerite Thomas Oct 11, 2016

Domaine des Berthiers, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($27, Vineyard Brands):

This wine from Jean-Claude Dagueneau is excellent once again in 2008. It shows very fresh aromas and flavors of lemons and limes as well as green apples, along with accents recalling dried herbs and freshly cut grass. Subtle mineral notes mark the finish, which is sharply defined by refreshing acidity, but not overly tart. Very well made, this will likely continue to become more complex for another year or two, so don’t be scared off by the vintage date simply because you see 2009 vintage Loire Sauvignons on store shelves. 92 Michael Franz Jun 22, 2010

Jean Pabiot et Fils, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) “Domaine des Fines Caillottes” 2022 ($28, Vintage Imports):

Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire Valley are among the most distinctive renditions of that grape. Sancerre is the best-known appellation for Sauvignon wines, and has gained considerable popularity in recent vintages. Pouilly-Fumé, although it shares the same climate and quality level of Sancerre, does not yet have the same notoriety. Jean Pabiot’s 2022 Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fumé shows a wonderful combination of exuberant fruit and the distinctive herbal complexity of Loire Sauvignon. It offers lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents followed by floral and herbal hints. The flavors of mouthwatering citrus and apple fruits are underscored by the classic herbal snap of the appellation. The Pabiot Pouilly-Fumé is a perfect companion for many fish and shellfish recipes as well as a classic match for Loire goat cheeses.
92 Wayne Belding Feb 20, 2024

Alphonse Mellot, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Pouilly sur Loire, home to Pouilly-Fumé, sits just across the Loire River from Sancerre and, like that town, allows producers to use only Sauvignon Blanc for its wines. Despite the similar location and grape, Mellot’s Pouilly-Fumé’s stony, lean, laser-like edginess is very different from the chalky earthy notes found in his Sancerre (reviewed previously). It’s an invigorating, tightly wound and even flinty wine that at this stage is reminiscent of Chablis. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2009

de Ladoucette, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2006 ($40, Maisons Marques and Domaines):

This famous estate and its amazing Château de Nozet have become such fixtures in the world of wine that one could almost forget that it is also the source of some of the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc. If you’d hesitate to buy a Pouilly-Fumé from 2006 (which is indeed the current release), this is a bottle to buy especially for that reason, since the wine can teach a valuable lesson about the capacity of top Loire Sauvignons to acquire additional complexities with age while still remaining taut and fresh. In this instance the core of lemon/lime fruit is enhanced by lots of little nuances and a very prominent minerality in the finish. Highly detailed, this is an enduringly interesting drink that seems to unfold a new element with every successive sip. 91 Michael Franz Feb 23, 2010

Domaine Marcel Langoux, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($21, Baron François Imports):

Aromatic, fresh and not weighed down by oak, this easy-going white wine is enjoyable on its own or accompanying seafood or other relatively light fare. Like many bottling of Pouilly-Fumé, this one is perhaps a tad smokier, or flintier, than a Sancerre, and it abounds in natural acidity.
91 Marguerite Thomas May 3, 2022

Francis Blanchet, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2019 ($22, Dionysos Imports):

Pouilly-Fumé is often overlooked for its larger and trendier counterpart, Sancerre. However, many excellent Fumés deserve the mass following of its neighbor across the river. One such Fumé worthy of discovery is the Francis Blanchet 2019 Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fumé. The palate is crisp and textured, carrying flavors of quince, dried apricot, and lemon zest with a delicate smoky (fumé) character. The wine has a vivacious structure and building minerality against a vibrant backbone of acidity.
91 Miranda Franco Sep 21, 2021

Domaine des Fines Caillottes, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2006 ($25, Henry Wine Group): Pricey but clearly excellent, this is utterly dry but still full of flavor and character. Fruit notes of green apple and lime are quite expressive, and abundant minerality lends real complexity and interest in the finish. Lean but quite long in the finish, this is balanced, integrated, and very impressive. 90 Michael Franz Jan 15, 2008

Langlois-Chateau, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) "Les Pierrefeux" 2004 ($26, Paterno): This is a lovely wine, and I'm a bit concerned that I'm under-rating it as a result of my preference for this producer's (downright thrilling) Sancerre. Nevertheless, while this is less intense, structured, and mineral than the Sancerre, it is a complete wine with excellent integration and balance. The fruit is relatively ripe and even a bit rounded in feel (which is unusual for Loire Sauvignon), though one finds plenty of subtle acidity in the finish. Subtle and seamless, this would be a perfect choice for a simple preparation of freshwater fish. 90 Michael Franz Jan 24, 2006

Pascal Jolivet, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($26, Wildman): Jolivet owns about 70 acres of vines split evenly between the

neighboring wine regions, Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, that face one another across the Loire Valley. Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, his 2005 Pouilly-Fumé shows the minerality and verve of the region, and shines because the flavors are not distorted by barrel fermentation or aging. Jolivet coaxes complexity from the wines with extended fermentation and aging on the lees (dead yeast) and achieves elegance and balance. This wine speaks rather than shouts. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2007

Pascal Jolivet, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2016 ($23):

Although made entirely from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, as required by regulations, Jolivet’s 2016 Pouilly-Fumé never screams that grape. Sure, you sense a bite, characteristic of the varietal, but the overall impression is one of a minty minerality with an enlivening citrus finish. Clean and refreshing, it has substantial depth, which makes it perfect for steamed clams or hearty seafood.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 19, 2019

Philippe Rambeau, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) “Les Lumeaux” 2009 ($20, Jean-Marie Dechamps): Despite the fume in its name, I don’t find smokey notes consistently in wines from Pouilly-Fumé. Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, says he often has difficulty distinguishing wines from Pouilly-Fumé from its across the river town of Sancerre since the soil in many spots on both sides of the river is similar. This Pouilly-Fumé has a captivating nose of freshly cut grass and a chalky earthiness. Its grapefruit-like tanginess is moderated slightly by a hint of creaminess, which softens the wine just a tad. Still, there’s great acid in the finish, which amplifies the flavors. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 17, 2010

Philippe Rambeau, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) “Les Lumeaux” 2009 ($20, Jean-Marie Dechamps): Despite the “fume” in its name, I don’t find smokey notes consistently in wines from Pouilly-Fumé. Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, says he often has difficulty distinguishing wines from Pouilly-Fumé from its across the river town of Sancerre since the soil in many spots on both sides of the river is similar. This Pouilly-Fumé has a captivating nose of freshly cut grass and a chalky earthiness. Its grapefruit-like tanginess is moderated slightly by a hint of creaminess, which softens the wine just a tad. Still, there’s great acid in the finish, which amplifies the flavors. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 22, 2011

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2017 ($87, Vintus):

Quarts de Chaume, a tiny appellation of barely 75 acres, is the only Grand Cru in the Loire Valley. It is arguably the “Montrachet of the Loire,” only it produces spectacular sweet wines from the Chenin Blanc grape. What makes these wines so special is their elegance and lightness juxtaposed to their presence and persistence. Like Sauternes, the wines are made from grapes that have been attacked by botrytis cinera, or the noble rot. Unlike Sauternes, Quarts de Chaume are racy and riveting thanks to the inherent acidity of Chenin Blanc. Baumard, certainly one of the appellation’s top producers, eschews any oak fermentation or aging, preferring to focus on the terroir by using only stainless steel. Their delicate and vibrant 2017 wows with its gracefulness and purity. Apricot skin nuances add to its luxuriousness. At this stage there’s lots of minerality showing and less botrytis character, which reinforces its racy character. The ying/yang of sweetness and electricity is captivating. In my experience, Baumard’s Quarts de Chaume develop magnificent complexity with decades of bottle age without losing any vibrancy, so there’s no rush to drink this one now. Indeed, I would cellar it for a few years, while searching for older ones that are still on the retail market. A standard 750-ml bottle will serve 8 to 12 people easily. If you have fewer, there’s no problem because the wine is practically bullet proof and remains in fine condition if kept in the fridge, opened, for at least a week. Quarts de Chaume is an ideal choice for a cheese course, rich patés, or by itself, as dessert. Although frequently called a dessert wine, I find that it, as with all sweet wines, lose their allure when matched with dessert because the sweetness of the two fights with one another.
96 Michael Apstein May 3, 2022

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2002 ($60, Ex Cellars): A glorious wine, this is rich with ripe pear and honey flavors, but it also shows a captivating delicacy. The sweetness is balanced perfectly by focused acidity, providing a striking combination of richness and elegance. This is a must for your cellar. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($70, Vintus): Quarts de Chaume, a tiny appellation in the Loire Valley, is capable of producing extraordinary sweet wines from the Chenin Blanc grape. Florent Baumard believes that the hallmark of the 2008 vintage is an uplifting acidity in the wines. And of course, it’s the vibrancy and verve, not the sweetness, by which these kinds of wines should be judged. Paradoxically, Baumard’s 2008 Quarts de Chaume delivers honeyed richness yet dances across the palate. It’s a lacey wine that leaves you wondering where all the lushness came from. Although Quarts de Chaume is a classic match for foie gras and other rich patés, it works exceptionally well with pungent or sharp cheeses, or as a counterpoint to highly spiced Chinese fare, or by itself as dessert.
2008 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012

Domaine Adele Rouze, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) 2021 ($22):

On the eastern edge of the Loire Valley, Quincy was approved as an AOC in 1936, making it the first in the Loire and the second in all of France. However, today it is often overlooked in favor of Sancerre wines. That’s too bad, and Adele Rouze, who founded her domaine in 2003, seems determined to change that. Her 2021, made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, comes across as vibrant but delicate when compared to typical Sancerre. With its aroma of flint, lime and fresh cut flowers, it gets your attention. On the palate it wins you over with its brisk flavors of peach, fresh herbs and definite mineral notes. Medium-bodied, it is crisp and finishes with good bright acidity.
91 Norm Roby May 2, 2023

Domaine Henri Bourgeois, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) “Les Victoires” 2005 ($14): Henri Bourgeois's Quincy is even better than his more renowned

Sancerre, and it's less expensive. An excellent example of Quincy, it is lively and crisp, with concentrated grapefruit and herbal flavors. Try it with seafood appetizers. 91 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Domaine Mardon, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) Cuvée Vielles Vignes 2005 ($16, Michael Skurnik): Wow! Domaine Mardon is one of the big names in Quincy, and his 2005 Cuvée Vielles Vignes (85 year-old vines) lives up to its reputation. Just packed with flavor and exotic orange aromas. Its lively acidity makes this Quincy sing. Very fine, and a great value. A Daniel Johnnes Selection. 91 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Domaine Pierre Duret, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($16, Fruit of the Vines):

Quincy is an appellation in the eastern Loire Valley region. It is named after the eponymous village, which received AOC status early on, in 1936. Less well known than its famous neighbors Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, which also make wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Quincy wines are therefore less expensive but are generally well worth seeking out. Only white wine is produced in this appellation. The wines tend to be lean, edgy and brightly acidic, like this Pierre Duret example, with distinct lime and lemon nuances. Alcohol levels are generally on the low side (12.5 percent in this Duret). Minerality is also commonly part of the Quincy taste profile, a reflection of the region’s typically gravelly soils.
91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 19, 2021

Jean-Michael Sorbe, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($23): This wine is a very interesting aromatically and on the palate, but especially in the finish. It gets off to a good start with aromas that are grassy but not under-ripe, along with floral notes akin to lilacs that are unusual for Sauvignon. The flavors offer suggestions of grapefruit and lime, and these notes carry through to the finish, which shows lovely mineral tinges and lots of zesty acidity. 91 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2009

Domaine du Tremblay, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) “Jean Tatin” 2005 ($16, VOS Selections): Piercing aromas of fresh lime and grapefruit, along with crisp acidity and ripe citrus flavors. Great balance. My house Sauvignon Blanc. 90 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Domaine Lecomte, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($20, Michael Skurnik Wines): Although a less well-known Loire appellation, Quincy wines are popular around Boston because of the suburb of the same name (but a different pronunciation (the wine is pronounced, “cahn-see”). This is a lively and intense expression of crisp and slightly earthy Sauvignon Blanc with a captivating floral component. Wonderful length and balance makes it hard to resist. It’s more evidence than the 2009 vintage was superb in the Loire. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010

Domaine de Villalin, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) "Grandes Vignes de Villalin" 2011 ($20, Polaner): Quincy, a small (400 acre) appellation in the Loire, is a good source for Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, especially as the prices of its more famous neighbor, Sancerre, escalate. This one has a milder, but still enticing, bite of Sauvignon Blanc supported by minerality and invigorating acidity. Try it with simply grilled fish.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013

Domaine Duret, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) 2009 ($13, Fruit of the Vine): Quincy is a tiny (400-acre) appellation west of Sancerre where regulations mandate Sauvignon Blanc for white wines just as in Sancerre. This wine speaks more of the grape with zesty citrus flavors than underlying minerality, but it is easy to recommend with raw or simply prepared seafood, especially at this bargain price. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 22, 2011

Philippe Portier, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($20, Robert Kacher Selections): This is an extremely delicate, genteel expression of Sauvignon Blanc, showing some of the chalky minerality associated with fine Loire renditions, as well as herbal, citrus flavors typical of the varietal. The wine is light, almost airy, so best suited for aperitif-sipping, as foods with any weight will threaten to overwhelm it. 88 Paul Lukacs Feb 3, 2009

Domaine Claude Lafond, Reuilly (Loire Valley, France) Château Gaillard 2004 ($18, VOS Selections): A great Reuilly! Lots of flinty, smoky aromas and flavors, with a touch of damp earth. Very lively, with a long finish. Claude Lafond's best Reuilly. 91 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Domaine Claude Lafond, Reuilly (Loire Valley, France) Clos Fussay 2005 ($13, Alain Blanchon Selections): Claude Lafond is generally regarded as the leading producer in the small Reuilly district. His 2005 Reuilly Clos Fussay has piercing aromas of grapefruit and damp earth, along with minerally flavors, excellent acidity, and very good depth. An excellent example of this appellation. 89 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) La Côte des Monts Damnés 2018 ($35, Chambers & Chambers):

Ripe, concentrated citrus, peach, gooseberry and lemon verbena aromas introduce pure, focused, Meyer lemon, gooseberry fruit layered with flinty notes entwined with steely acidity. This is a beautiful expression of Sauvignon Blanc grown in one of Chavignol’s most revered vineyard sites. The winemaking process is minimal to allow the fruit to shine. Grapes are hand-picked, pressed and allowed to settle for a couple of days before temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine rests on fine lees nine to ten months before bottling. Spend some time savoring the magic of this wine then enjoy with fresh oysters or baked halibut. Ten generations of the Bourgeois family have been making wines in the Loire Valley of France. Today the winery is run by three Bourgeios brothers: Arnaud is general manager; Lionel is the vineyard manager and Jean-Christophe the winemaker.
98 Rebecca Murphy Dec 22, 2020

Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) "La Moussiere" 2004 ($23, Elite Wines): When they get it right, the best vintners in the eastern Loire Valley appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé still make the world's best wines from Sauvignon Blanc. Maybe it's the limestone, the cool northern climate, or the simple fact that this grape variety has been cultivated there for hundreds and hundreds of years; but whatever the cause(s), the effect can be amazingly compete and complex wines. Of course, it doesn't happen every year, and certainly not with every producer. So if you're looking for reliability with this increasingly popular grape, you'll probably do better to look elsewhere (try New Zealand). But if spine-tingling thrills are your goal, you'll eventually end up back in the Loire. This particular wine provides fantastic thrills. It's amazingly harmonious, with layers and layers of citrus and mineral-tinged flavors, and a finish that lasts for literally minutes. Words don't do it justice. 95 Paul Lukacs Feb 21, 2006

Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Demoiselles” 2008 ($75, Boutique Wine Collection): Sancerre is a special place because Sauvignon Blanc planted here can have a unique flavor profile, unlike the taste of wines made from Sauvignon Blanc planted elsewhere. Sadly, these days as Sancerre has grown in popularity too many of its wines have lost their distinctiveness. Not this one. Mellot combines enormous power with the quintessential earthy, chalky flavors unique to Sancerre. This wine has an attractive bite, herbal notes without being aggressive, and an astounding length and elegance. Whether you want to pay $75 for it is between you and your banker, but make no mistake, it’s one of the benchmarks of the appellation. 95 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2009

Comte Lafond, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2022 ($45, Maisons Marques & Domaines):

The original Loire Valley estate and château that Comte Lafond acquired in 1787 was owned by the illegitimate daughter of the French king, Louis XV. Today the winery in the hands of Comte Lafond’s descendent Baron Patrick de Ladoucette. The Sauvignon Blanc grapes are whole-cluster pressed, then fermented at cool temperature in stainless steel tanks for six to eight weeks, with an additional three to six weeks on the lees. This careful handling results in an elegant wine with focused, fresh, citrus fruit flavors and flinty notes. The time on lees, the expired yeast cells, ensures that the citrus fruit has a smooth, silky texture. It is great with goat cheese and pairs well with white meats and fresh veggies.
95 Rebecca Murphy Jan 2, 2024

Daniel Chotard, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($28, Kermit Lynch):

Members of the Chotard family have been making wine since the late 1700s. These days Daniel and his wife, Bridgette, rely on their son, Simon, to head the winery. The Chotards harvest their grapes later than usual for their region. They use indigenous yeasts to ferment these ripe grapes and allow the resulting wine to remain on the lees, the expired yeast cells, which adds creamy roundness. The result is a luscious wine with Sauvignon Blanc’s distinctive herbal, lemongrass, lime zest and grapefruit aromas and flavors, with notes of white chalk. In the mouth, it is gracefully round and ripe, yet it practically hums with crackling, citrusy acidity. Sancerre will shine at the table with a sauteed white fish, such as sole, goat cheese or a salad of thinly sliced fennel and celery topped with fresh mozzarella and a lemony dressing.
95 Rebecca Murphy Feb 1, 2022

Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Silex” 2019 ($47, Vineyard Brands):

I’ve been itching to taste the top wines from Delaporte from the 2019 vintage, and though high expectations are dangerous for the prospects of any wine, this one actually exceeded mine. It is wonderfully expressive aromatically, showing terrific fruit scents of ripe lemons and limes along with suggestions of stone fruits and dried herbs. Remarkably enough, the wine currently tastes even better than it smells, echoing the particular scents but layering in a marvelous minerality that doesn’t just kick in during the finish, but asserts itself in the mid-palate and rides in tandem with the fruit for every delicious second thereafter. And I should add that there are a lot of “delicious seconds,” as this wine has one seriously persistent finish, with all the flavor sensations tailing off symmetrically. This is among the handful of best new releases from Sancerre in a fresh, mineral style that I’ve tasted going all the way back to the 2008 vintage. Holy Moly, don’t miss this one.
95 Michael Franz Nov 23, 2021

Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Monts Damnés” 2019 ($57, Vineyard Brands):

“Opulent” and “Sancerre” aren’t words any of us are accustomed to seeing in the same sentence, and I don’t know whether I’m glad or not to be conjoining the words in this sentence or not. On one hand, the wine is undeniably delicious, so no problem there. On the other hand, it shows very ripe fruit that comes off as notably sweet, even though I doubt there’s any residual sugar in the finished wine…just an impression of sweetness from the ripeness of the grapes at the time of harvest. Whereas Sancerre has always been — categorically — an emphatically light-bodied wine, this one is medium-bodied and leaning toward full. Moreover, there’s a tropical note along with the standard issue lemon/lime scents and flavors that also skews this in an opulent direction. To return to the aforementioned deliciousness, there’s plenty of acidity to keep this in balance, so the wine’s richness doesn’t pose any problem — it just presents as a surprise. Tried alongside a spicy preparation of mussels, this was spectacular, so just adjust accordingly when thinking about this ultra-impressive wine in the context of food.
94 Michael Franz Nov 23, 2021

Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Blanc 2018 ($33, Vineyard Brands):

Although this is an indisputably delicious bottle of wine that nobody could fail to enjoy, it is still recommended for open-minded consumers. The reason for this is that it really doesn’t taste much like classic Sancerre -- which is to say, like almost any Sancerre that “purists” will ever have tasted before. Exuberantly fruity and very rich, this is at least medium-bodied in terms of general weight and robustness, and though it shows a bit of the chalky minerality for which the appellation is famous, your palate will need to seek out that minerality beneath the waves of fruit (including white melon, peach and lime). Circling back to my first impression, I absolutely loved the wine, and immediately insisted that a couple of experienced friends taste it along with me, resulting in immediate consensus that it bears little resemblance to classic Sancerre. Still, this is marvelous Sauvignon, and I’ll be buying several bottles for my cellar, with the objective of learning what will become of it after it has shed some of its baby fat and primary fruit flavors in 3 or 4 years.
94 Michael Franz Jun 25, 2019

Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Monts Damnés” 2017 ($52, Vineyard Brands):

I tasted this terrific wine side-by-side with the 2017 “Les Monts Damnés” from J. de Villebois, or perhaps I should say that I tasted them neck-and-neck, as this horseracing term for a close finish is how things worked out. This is initially the more restrained an reticent of the two, but it blossoms quite dramatically after an un-refrigerated hour, retaining the lemon-lime citrus notes that were first displayed, but layering in suggestions of apricot that seem much more rich and ripe than anything that was revealed up front. It also evolves to show some seeming wood influence in the form of some spiciness and (positive) oxidative notes that were also concealed in how the wine initially presents itself. As a last word, I can easily understand how buying Sancerre for $52 might seem like madness, as many people think of the breed as tart little wines for oysters and nothing more. But experience has taught me that the best renditions can be fantastic if permitted time to develop their full potential, and let me tell you…this wine packs massive potential.
94 Michael Franz Aug 18, 2020

Domaine Denizot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($30, Schatzi Wines):

What makes good Sancerre so special? The best ones are, like this one, complex, crystalline, structured and long on the palate. The region’s limestone soils certainly play a role, as does the fruit, in this case from Domaine Denizot’s organically farmed Sauvignon Blanc vineyards. And of course superb winemaking is critical. At Domaine Denizot, Thibault Denizot is the eighth generation of his family to make wine here.
94 Marguerite Thomas Nov 9, 2021

Domaine Fournier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2008 ($38, David Milligan Selection): I know, why pay $38 for Sancerre when so many good ones go for less than $30? Simple, this one’s unique and worth every penny of it. Fournier is one of Sancerre’s star producers. His Cuvée Silex comes from a distinctive 5-acre parcel whose soil is mostly flint. Reflective of the site, the wine is precise, mineraly and long with alluring smoky flintiness. The grape is still Sauvignon Blanc, but the taste is the place. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011

J. de Villebois, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Bouffants 2019 ($66, Vineyard Brands):

This house remains both new and consequently unknown to most wine lovers on the western side of the Atlantic, but the wines are truly excellent at every price level, form the simple Touraine designation up to the “Cuvée Parcellaire” releases from single sites in Sancerre, such as this bottling. With just a little time in bottle since initial release, this has become perfectly integrated and yet is showing all of its complex elements without them blurring together. Most impressively (lest I commit the journalistic sin of “burying the “lede”), this tastes more of Sancerre than Sauvignon Blanc—from stem to stern. That is to say, one can actually smell the limestone minerality in the bouquet, running in tandem with the citrus and herbal notes of the grape variety, and this remains true through the mid-palate and finish as well. As temperatures continue to rise, it is ever more rare to find bottlings of Sancerre that speak more of rock than sun or grape, but this is one of them — yet there’s also delicious primary fruit that’s still in very fresh condition. Do whatever you must to taste this — short of murder.
94 Michael Franz Jul 12, 2022

Remy Pannier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($39, Palm Bay International):

Sancerre can excel on the strength of its fruit, or its minerality in certain parts of the appellation, or on both. This is a fruit-driven expression of Sauvignon from Sancerre, and a beautiful one at that, with gorgeous notes of lemon, lime and white melon. The finish is bright and acidic but not remotely sour or screechy, and some tiny bubbles on the interior of a wine glass indicate early bottling to keep the wine fresh — a strategy that succeeded completely. A tinge of minerality lets you know this was sourced from Sancerre, but the overall impression is one of impeccable fruit. A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition.
94 Michael Franz Jul 6, 2021

Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (France) "La Moussiere" 2005 ($27, Elite Wines): I first tried Mellot's "La Moussiere" last winter. The wine was from the 2004 vintage, and was as fine a Sancerre as I had ever tasted. It tasted crisp and vibrant, with all the citrus and slightly herbaceous qualities one expects from a first-rate Sauvignon Blanc, no matter its origin; but it also displayed wonderfully nuanced secondary flavors, with a distinct mineral-tinged undertone that gained intensity in the finish -- something that in my experience only top Loire Valley Sauvignons can deliver. (I raved about it on this web site.) Well, I'm happy to report that the 2005 is every bit that wine's equal. It too tastes unmistakably of both the grape variety and the place, and is simply great fun to drink. If you like unadorned Sauvignon Blanc, you're bound to love this wine! Only one small caveat: I revisited the 2004 a couple of weeks ago, and found that its charms are beginning to fade. "La Moussiere," like so many wines made from this grape, needs to be drunk young. 93 Paul Lukacs Sep 19, 2006

Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Silex” 2021 ($40, Vineyard Brands):

Domaine Delaporte, in the village of Chavignol in the Loire Valley, was established by the Delaporte family in the 17th century. Third generation vintner, Matthieu Delaporte, has converted the estate’s vineyard practices to biodynamic farming. The use of sulfur in the winery and winemaking is kept to a minimum, which requires stringent hygiene in the winery. More than 50 years old, the Sauvignon Blanc vines that provide the grapes for this wine, are grown on flint soil, which translates to “silex" in French. The result is an elegant, finely structured, wine with ethereal aromas of chalk, herbs, lemon and lime. In the mouth, the citrus flavors are softened by a creamy texture and enlivened by nervy acidity. Serve it with a Crottin de Chavignol, made from the raw milk of goats of the region.
93 Rebecca Murphy Apr 18, 2023

Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Silex” 2020 ($43, Vineyard Brands):

This delicious wine is rich and generously flavored by comparison to most wines bearing the Sancerre appellation. Although that might reflect either climate change or this exceptional producer’s commitment to concentration in the wine, the result is the same: fleshy fruit enlivened by bright acidity resulting in a balanced, highly satisfying wine. If you can hold this for a few years to let the primary fruit flavors to tone down a bit as the underlying minerality becomes more prominent, you’ll have a considerably more complex wine to reward your patience, but there’s no doubting the deliciousness of this as it stands now.
93 Michael Franz Sep 27, 2022

Domaine La Croix Saint-Laurent, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2017 ($26, Passionné de Vin Imports):

Joël et Sylvie Cirotte, owners of Domaine La Croix Saint-Laurent, have fashioned a terrific Sancerre that highlights the minerality of Sancerre rather than the fruitiness of Sauvignon Blanc. Delightfully chalky and bright, its charm and elegance appear in a long, sublime finish. The grape may be Sauvignon Blanc, but this wine is definitely Sancerre.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 24, 2018

Gerard Boulay, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Monts Damnes” 2008 ($41, Premium Wine Co.):

Les Monts Damnes (literally, damned mountains), so named because of the steepness of the slope, is one of the best sites in Sancerre and would be categorized as Grand Cru if that system existed in the appellation. This wine screams Sancerre--as opposed to just Sauvignon Blanc--with a chalky minerality and a long, laser-like focus. There’s a lovely bite and persistent vivacity. The vines are old, 45 years, which helps explain why this is such a classy wine. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 17, 2010

Gerard Boulay, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($41, Premium Wine Company):

J. de Villebois, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Monts Damnés” 2017 ($66, Vineyard Brands):

This is terrific Sancerre from an excellent producer whose wines are just showing up in the USA, thanks to an importing agreement with Vineyard Brands. Although it will be significantly better with a few more years of bottle age (trust me, regardless of the widespread notion that un-oaked white wines are always better the younger one drinks them), this is already quite compelling stuff, especially when allowed to warm a bit. Taut with acidity and underlain by prominent minerality, it loosens with airing and warming to show wonderful aromas and flavors with citrus fruits at the core, but also accents of white flowers, lime zest, oyster shells and wet stones. Lithe and lovely and alluringly mineral, this is very seductive stuff.
93 Michael Franz Aug 18, 2020

Merlin-Cherrier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) "Le Chêne Marchand" 2015 ($34, Vintage '59 Imports): Some like their Sancerre lean and mean, as in 2014, and some like riper, plusher vintages such as 2015. I'm almost always in the former camp...until a wine like this comes along. It is really more melony than citrusy, and I have my doubts that I would even identify it as Sancerre if tasting it blind on a day when I wasn't at my best, but damn...it is delicious. Really a medium-bodied wine, this is ripe and fruity on the nose and quite broad on first palate impression, though the acidity and minerality then start to gain traction and pull even in the finish. A wine that is both opulent and engaging, this is not to be missed.
93 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2017

Patient Cottat, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Anciennes Vignes” 2015 ($28, Vineyard Brands):

2015 was a hot, dry year in the Loire region, which is undoubtedly why this year’s Sancerre shows unusually lush and ripe flavors that include hints of tropical fruit. Some people may be put off by these relatively voluptuous flavors and mouth-filling richness, but the wine still finishes with the good crisp acidity that lovers of Sancerre yearn for. You may also discover pleasing hints of chalkiness here. All in all, despite it somewhat quirky character, I loved the wine.
93 Marguerite Thomas Jul 4, 2017

Patient Cottat, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Anciennes Vignes” 2019 ($35, Vineyard Brands):

This terrific wine won’t be everybody’s idea of classic Sancerre, but that doesn’t make it any less terrific, and it might be an example of a new paradigm for high-end wines from this famous appellation. It differs from the traditional norm in being less “grassy” on the nose, weightier and broader on the palate, and less sharply tart in the finish. With that said, it still shows some light herbal aromas, is still only medium-bodied on the light side of that category, and has plenty of acidity to be quite refreshing and bright as it finishes. So, we’re talking here about a difference “in degree” rather than “in kind” by comparison to the best Sancerre wines of years past. Still, climate change is showing in this wine, as it is in many whites that have passed across my tasting bench in recent years. It may interest you to know that this is at least as true for wines made from prime sites as for those from lesser ones, and for good reason: historically, the best vineyard sites were best because they maximized sun exposure, which was needed for full ripening. These sites are now often more challenging than ones that were less desirable not long ago. However, top sites tend to be owned by top producers who are generally above average in the talent and capital they can bring to the task of adapting to climate change, and this factor mutes the impact of the phenomenon. I’ve loved the Sancerre releases from Patient Cottat for years, and love this one too, regardless of its marginally different character. I’d bet you’ll love it too.
93 Michael Franz Jul 27, 2021

Paul Doucet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) "Roche des Lumières" 2019 ($20, Jose Moura Selections):

Aromatic and crisp, this lovely Sancerre is a perfect aperitif as well as a very tasty partner for seafood (I recently enjoyed it with a simple roast Branzino, which was an altogether tasty match). Like all Sancerre, Roche des Lumières is made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes, but the Loire region’s expression of the grape is typically very different from, say, that of New Zealand or California. 2019 was mostly an excellent vintage in Sancerre, resulting in wines that are fragrant, full of charm, stony and lemony, and crisp but not tart.
93 Marguerite Thomas May 4, 2021

Vincent et Jean-Yves Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Maxine” Vieilles Vignes 2008 ($43, Vineyard Brands):

Made from Sauvignon Blanc vines that are more than 50 years old, this is a great Sancerre, with complexity that comes only from old vines. Fermented and aged in older oak barrels, you feel--not taste--the wood’s effect. This is not just Sauvignon Blanc; this is Sauvignon Blanc planted in Sancerre with the slightly chalky and earthy flavors unique to that locale. Long and broad, it conveys a captivating smoky flintiness balanced by lively acidity. Each sip brings new flavors. Yes, it’s pricier than most Sancerre, but you get what you pay for.

Domaine Cherrier et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($25, Vineyard Brands): Many Sancerre these days lack distinctiveness and taste more like simple Sauvignon Blanc. Not this one, which shows why the vineyards around the tiny town of Sancerre on the Loire River have such a good reputation. Sure, it has the bright zesty verve of Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s real Sancerre, with layers of chalky minerality--even a smoky flinty element--and depth. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2009

Domaine Franck Millet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Sommet Doré” 2022 ($26, K & L Wine Merchants):

The 2022 Sommet Doré Sancerre is a lovely high-acid and citrus-forward Sauvignon Blanc bursting forth with aromas of citrus fruits, tart white peach, green mango peel, white flowers, lemon zest, and wet stones. It is energetic with mouth-watering and invigorating acidity all the way through to the finish. The palate also offers a chalky mineral drive that is a testament to the exceptional terroir in the Loire Valley. It is an ideal everyday bottle without the price tag of other wines from this appellation. A true classic!
92 Miranda Franco Nov 21, 2023

Domaine Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2009 ($23, Vineyard Brands): The 2009 vintage was excellent in the Loire Valley, as it was in much of France. And this wine shows it. With many a Sancerre today coming across as dilute and lacking the unique character of the appellation, it’s a real pleasure to taste Delaporte’s. He marries the pungency of Sauvignon Blanc with the chalky earthiness of Sancerre, characteristic of the appellation. Intense without screaming, the explosive lemon-tinged finish invites another sip. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010

Henry Natter, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($24, Vintage '59 Imports): I hesitate to term this a "classic" Sancerre only because it is so far

above the norm that it might not remind others of the general run of bottlings from this famous Loire appellation. Quite expressive aromatically and deep and long in flavor, it is impressively concentrated and substantial, yet it displays this profile without overt influence from wood. Moreover, it shows lovely mineral notes and fresh acidity in the finish, retaining regional typicity despite being atypically flavorful. 92 Michael Franz Feb 13, 2007

Henry Natter, Sancerre (France) 2005 ($23, Vintage '59 Imports): If you wish to find a young Sancerre with more interesting and complex aromas than this wine, you've got your work cut out for you. The flavors and finish are both wonderful, but the bouquet of this wine is the prime attraction, showing lovely notes of lemon/lime and green apple with supporting accents of minerals, hay, nuts and fresh bread dough. Intricate in its details but still symmetrical and convincing as a whole, this is a beautiful wine. 92 Michael Franz Oct 31, 2006

Langlois-Chateau, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Chateau de Fontaine-Audon "Terroir Silex" 2004 ($24, Paterno): This was my first experience with this wine, and we are off to a very good start indeed. The promising reference on the label to "Terroir Silex" is fulfilled from the first whiff and sip, as this shows an intense but balanced character of flinty minerals that offers a delightful counterpart to the very solid core of ripe, concentrated fruit. Had I tasted this without knowing the appellation, I'd bet that I would have misidentified it as a top Pouilly-Fumé, and indeed it tastes more in this mold to me than this producer's fine Pouilly-Fumé. Complex and completely convincing, this is a dynamite drink. 92 Michael Franz Jan 24, 2006

Lucien Crochet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chêne” 2014 ($30, Neal Rosenthal): This is the real deal. Sancerre has become so popular that some producers over crop to keep up with demand. As a result, many of the wines carrying that appellation are uninteresting, tasting like a Sauvignon from, well, anywhere. Crochet’s has a burnt gunflint and mineral-like character with a laser-like, cutting edge. It enlivens the palate without being aggressive. Despite the Le Chêne (literally, the oak tree) moniker this wine has had no oak or any wood aging. Its purity of place is what is transfixing. The combination of minerality and acidity make it a very versatile wine. I had it over several hours with an omakase dinner at Uni, a high-end and excellent, Japanese restaurant in the Boston where it was a beautiful match to everything from delicate Japanese sea bream to sea urchin to foie gras-topped spicy tuna.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2016

Chateau de Sancerre, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2010 ($22, Moët Hennessey USA): I love authentic Sancerre, such as this one, because it transmits an earthy chalky edginess, along with the grapefruity side of Sauvignon Blanc. The 2010 Chateau de Sancerre has length and body, elements often lacking in modern Sancerre. It virtually sparkles on the tongue, which makes it easy to recommend. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2012

Claude and Florence Thomas-Labaille, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc "Les Monts Damnés" 2018 ($37, Louis/Dressner):

The village of Chavignol stands out among Sancerre communes for the intensity of its wines. Les Monts Damnés is a famous vineyard on a steep slope above the commune with a perfect exposure. Sauvignon Blancs from Chavignol, and Monts Damnés in particular, rank among the most distinctive in the world. Thomas-Labailles’s 2018 Sancerre Les Monts Damnés is drawn from 30-year-old vines and shows the intensity of the appellation. It has a wonderful combination of lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents are followed by hints of lily, pear and fresh herbs. The flavors of mouthwatering citrus and apple fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal hints. The texture is creamy and offers remarkable richness for a Sauvignon Blanc wine. Chavignol is also noted for goat’s milk cheeses and a fresh Chèvre will be a perfect companion for this excellent Sancerre.
91 Wayne Belding Mar 9, 2021

Domaine André Vatan, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) "Les Charmes" 2020 ($22):

This small family domaine in the Sancerre appellation has been run by André Vatan since 1988. He has upgraded the16 acre estate family vineyard where most of the vines grow on silex, a flinty, limestone-free soil and a small portion grows on limestone soil. This 2020 displays a combination of flinty and grassy aromas with subtle citrus notes. Medium bodied with assertive apricot, green pea and mineral-laced flavors, it finishes with snappy acidity. The aftertaste continues on and on and concludes with a pleasing lingering flinty note.
91 Norm Roby Nov 1, 2022

Domaine Cherrier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2011 ($22, Vineyard Brands): One taste of Cherrier’s 2011 Sancerre explains why this appellation has been so popular. Flinty and chalky, almost smokey, notes accompany the pungency and vibrancy typical of Sauvignon Blanc. But it’s not a Sauvignon Blanc. Its beauty lies with its minerality rather than the all too often aggressive grassiness of that varietal. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012

Domaine Cherrier et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($25, Vineyard Brands):

Sauvignon Blanc is now produced in most of the world’s vineyard regions, but Sancerre remains the lodestone for many wine lovers seeking the purity of flavor this grape can convey. It’s true that France’s beautiful Sancerre region is capable of producing some banal wines, but this one from Domaine Cherrier is the real thing: a classic, with the fresh fragrance dominated by lime peel, and melon and minerality hovering in the background. The wine is beautifully dry on the palate without being too searingly acidic. Domaine Cherrier also produces Crottin de Chavignol, the Loire region’s classic goat cheese. Pair some chèvre with this wine and you’ll swoon with pleasure.

Domaine Fournier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Les Belles Vignes 2009 ($25, David Milligan Selections): Sancerre is enormously popular, not only in Paris bistros, but around the world. And often with popularity comes dilution of quality, which, in the case of Sancerre, has led to many vapid wines that have zestiness but little else. There’s no such dilution with the wines from Domaine Fournier, one of the region’s stellar producers. This is classic Sancerre, vibrant with the chalky flintiness characteristic of the region. Long and refined, this wine shows why the category became popular. If you want to taste authentic Sancerre, pick up a bottle of Fournier’s 2009 Les Belles Vignes. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011

Domaine Merlin-Cherrier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chêne Marchand" 2005 ($33, Vintage '59 Imports): An exemplary rendition of Sancerre, this wine displays excellent complexity after half an hour of aeration. The fruit notes recall ripe apples with a splash of citrus, and a host of subtle mineral notes lend great interest to the long, symmetrical finish. 91 Michael Franz May 6, 2008

Hubert Brochard, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Tradition” 2010 ($27, Vignobles LVDH):

This very appealing Sancerre shows fresh lemony fruit that offers fine depth of flavor, but even more impressive is its linear energy and the persistence of its flavorful finish. The lemony notes are supported by a very appealing minerality that rides alongside the fruit and acidity in an almost perfectly symmetrical manner. Few renditions of Sancerre cost more than this one, but by the same token, few of them can match it for quality. 91 Michael Franz Nov 8, 2011

Jean Reverdy et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Reine Blanche” 2020 ($27, Kysela Père et Fils):

Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire Valley appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé rank among the most distinctive in the world. Jean Reverdy’s 2020 La Reine Blanche Sancerre shows a wonderful combination of exuberant fruit and the distinctive herbal snap of Loire Sauvignon. It offers lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents followed by hints of honeysuckle and fresh herbs. The flavors of mouthwatering citrus and apple fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal hints. Sancerre is not only a great apéritif for a holiday dinner, it is also a perfect companion for many fish and shellfish recipes.
91 Wayne Belding Nov 16, 2021

Joseph Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Chatellenie” 2022 ($28, Fruit of the Vines):

Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire Valley appellation of Sancerre have seen a resurgence in popularity in the past few years, and this wine shows why. Joseph Mellot’s 2022 La Chatellenie Sancerre shows a wonderful combination of juicy, fresh fruit and the distinctive herbal snap of Loire Sauvignon. The bouquet shows lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents followed by hints of honeysuckle and fresh herbs. The flavors of mouthwatering grapefruit, lemon and apple fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal hints. Sancerre is not only a great apéritif, it is also a perfect companion for your favorite fish and shellfish recipes.
91 Wayne Belding Aug 29, 2023

Christian Lauverjat, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Perle Blanche” 2005 ($20, Elite Wines): Just when I'm poised to recognize New Zealand as having hammered the last nail in the coffin of all other regions for Sauvignon Blanc, some guy screws everything up with a terrific wine like this. Subtle in aroma and flavor but highly nuanced as well, this very well made wine is ripe enough to show no hard edges but yet remains fresh and zesty. Notes of green apples and limes are very appealing, with accents of hay and wet stones. 90 Michael Franz Mar 27, 2007

Claude and Florence Thomas-Labaille, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “l’Authentique" 2020 ($25, Louis/Dressner):

The village of Chavignol stands out among Sancerre communes for the intensity of its wines. The Kimmeridgian-age limestones of the village form soils that make Sauvignon Blancs from Chavignol among the most distinctive in the world. Thomas-Labailles’s 2020 Sancerre l’Authentique is drawn from 25-year-old vines in Chavignol and shows the intensity of the appellation. It has a wonderful combination of lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents are followed by hints of flowers, pear and fresh herbs. The flavors of mouthwatering citrus and green apple fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal hints. Chavignol is also noted for goat’s milk cheeses and a fresh Chèvre will be a perfect companion for this excellent Sancerre.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 31, 2021

Daniel Chotard, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2010 ($25): The problem with Sancerre over the last two or three decades has been its popularity, both in the bistros of Paris and on these shores. The result has been a dilution of quality with many examples tasting more like Sauvignon Blanc and less like Sancerre. Well, that is not the case with Chotard’s 2010. It conveys the chalky aspect of Sancerre tinged with a zingy edginess. Long and precise, it cuts through the wasabi-tinged flavors of sushi. This is real Sancerre. 90 Michael Apstein May 23, 2012

Domaine de la Perrière, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2009 ($21, Pasternak Wine Imports): Guy Saget, one of the Loire’s best producers, has controlled this domaine for the past 15 years. The 2009, a great vintage in the Loire, is one of his best. With so much diluted Sancerre on the market, it’s a pleasure to find this one, full of chalky minerality. A flinty, almost smoky aspect and enlivening acidity means you don’t tire of drinking this wine with a meal. Try it with shellfish or grilled swordfish. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Domaine Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Porte du Caillou” 2005 ($18, Touton):

Henri Bourgeois has been consistently one of the finest producers of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc wines. His 2005 La Porte du Caillou is excellent; is lean and lively with a chalky texture, ripe citrus flavors, and great depth. 90 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Domaine Merlin-Cherrier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2006 ($25, Vintage '59 Imports): This new release shows Thierry Merlin-Cherrier, an excellent

Sancerre producer, at the top of his game. The wine is very subtle and very well integrated, but it shows lots of interesting nuances. Light-bodied, but with good depth of flavor and nice mineral grip, it features excellent balance of acidity and fruit. Its excellent symmetry and integration will make it very versatile with light summer fare. 90 Michael Franz May 6, 2008

Domaine Serge Laporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2010 ($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports):

Although Sauvignon Blanc is the required grape in Sancerre for white wine, authentic Sancerre evokes the place, not the grape. Fortunately for consumers, Serge Laporte makes authentic Sancerre. His importer tells me that half of the wine comes from Les Monts Damnés (the damned mountains) in Chavignol, considered by many to be Sancerre’s best site, which could explain why this wine is so distinctive. Tinged with a flinty smokiness and buttressed by bracing acidity, it has body and depth. It would be a great choice for grilled swordfish. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

Franck & Jean-François Bailly-Reverdy, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Chavignol” 2013 ($24, Skurnik):

Sancerre is a refreshing treat whatever the weather. The 2013 Cuvée Chavignol from Bailly-Reverdy is exuberant and lively. Lemon, lime and green apple fruit scents are followed by hints of white flowers and fresh cut grass. On the palate, the mouthwatering citrus and apple fruits are backed by subtle hints of chalk and green herbs. Fresh Sancerre like this is a great companion for fish or shellfish dishes. It’s also a fine match for fresh goat cheeses -- especially those from its home village of Chavignol.
90 Wayne Belding Oct 7, 2014

Gerard Boulay, Sancerre (Loire Valley) 2013 ($29, Thomas Calder Selection): The village of Chavignol stands out among Sancerre communes for the intensity of its wines. Sauvignon Blancs produced here rank among the most distinctive in the world. Gérard Boulay’s 2013 Sancerre from Chavignol exhibits the village character. It shows a wonderful combination of lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents that are followed by hints of lily, peach and fresh herbs. The flavors of mouthwatering citrus and apple fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal hints. The texture is nearly creamy in its intensity, offering remarkable richness for a Sauvignon Blanc wine. Chavignol is also noted for goat’s milk cheeses and those will be a perfect companion for this excellent Sancerre.
90 Wayne Belding Feb 3, 2015

Guy Saget, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($24, Pasternak Wine Imports): Anyone who wants a lesson in the French concept of terroir--the notion that where the grapes grow determines the nature of the wine--should taste this Sancerre and Saget’s 2008 La Petite Perrière (also reviewed this week) side by side. Both are made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, but this Sancerre has an alluring chalky minerality, especially in the finish, that is characteristic of the appellation, balances the pungency of the varietal and adds complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010

Joseph Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Chatellanie” 2016 ($26):

The wonderful thing about really good Sancerre is that, though made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, it doesn’t taste like most Sauvignon Blanc, which can be raspy and vegetal. Good Sancerre, such as Mellot’s, has a chalky minerality underpinning the bite provided by the grape. A vivid finish thanks to its brilliant acidity keeps it fresh.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018

Langlois-Chateau, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($25, Vintus):

Langlois-Chateau, though best known for their sparkling wines, also makes noteworthy still wines, such as this Sancerre. The appealing bite of Sauvignon Blanc is apparent, but it speaks of minerals and chalk rather than overt fruitiness. Fresh, bright and clean, it’s a refreshing and graceful expression of that grape.
90 Michael Apstein May 19, 2020

Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2006 ($24, Frederick Wildman):

Whenever I spy the Pascal Joilvet Sancerre on a restaurant wine list, it's almost an automatic order. For one thing, I know it will be a crowd-pleaser. I haven't had a mediocre vintage from this young winery (established in 1987) yet. For another, the firm structure and depth of a Pascal Jolivet Sancerre make it both compatible with any number of dishes -- from oysters to sushi to roasted pork -- or simply perfect as an aperitif. The '06 shows a melange of fresh green and red citrus fruit flavours, supported by crisp acidity and a flinty mineral note. 90 Robert Whitley Dec 4, 2007

Patient Cottat, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2008 ($23, Vineyard Brands): Patient Cottat is one of the labels that Fournier Père & Fils, an excellent Loire producers based in Verdigny, uses for wines from his own vineyards. It’s a lovely Sancerre with the depth and length you’d expect from 30+ year-old vines planted on limestone soil. There’s inherent pungency from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, but the layers of chalky minerality make it unique and distinguishes it from other Sauvignon Blanc-based wines. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 1, 2011

Thierry Merlin-Cherrier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) "Le Chêne Marchand" 2004 ($30, Vintage '59 Imports): Sourced from a small plot above the village of Bué, this delicious Sauvignon shows impressive concentration and depth of fruit. While atypically good for Sancerre, it is not atypical in the negative sense of being tough to place. Thanks to prominent minerality, ripe acidity and some nice little nuances around the edges, it just seems like more Sancerre than usual rather than something alien to Sancerre. 90 Michael Franz Feb 20, 2007

Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre (France) 2012 ($28, Vineyard Brands): A student in a wine tasting class once asked me if Sancerre was the French word for “sincere.” It isn’t, of course, but this wine is so straightforward, earnest and friendly that it really is sincere Sancerre. Crisp and minerally, with a streak of fruit and just enough weight to add veritas, this is a wine to be enjoyed any time of year, but it will be especially delicious in the temperate breezes and golden shadows of an autumn evening.
90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 1, 2013

Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($27, Vineyard Brands): Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire Valley appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé rank among the most distinctive in the world. Vincent Delaporte’s 2013 Sancerre shows a wonderful combination of exuberant fruit and the distinctive herbal snap of Loire Sauvignon. It offers lemon, grapefruit and green apple fruit scents are followed by hints of honeysuckle and fresh herbs. The flavors of mouthwatering citrus and apple fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal hints. Sancerre is not only a great opening wine for a holiday dinner, it’s also a perfect companion for many fish and shellfish recipes.
90 Wayne Belding Dec 2, 2014

Baron Patrick de Ladoucette, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) La Poussie 2003 ($33, Maisons, Marques & Domaines): Pale straw color leads to a layered nose of wild flowers and a mineral note. The flavors are brisk, mineral, with underlying ripe white peach accents that follow through to the tight finish. A delightful Old World contrast to the many New World Sauvignon Blancs. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2006

Fernand Girard, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) "La Garenne" 2005 ($15, Louis Dressner Selections): This classic Sancerre delivers a balanced combination of minerals and herbs enlivened with refreshing acidity. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006

Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Rosé "La Porte du Caillou" 2004 ($18, Monsieur Touton): Henri Bourgeois is one of the most consistently reliable producers in the Loire Valley. Sancerre rosés, made from Pinot Noir, can be too light-bodied and flavorless, but not so those made by Bourgeois. It's light pink with a slightly orangey tone, soft, ample, and generous, with delightful red cherry flavors and more length on the palate than you would expect. A perfect warm-weather, luncheon wine. 89 Ed McCarthy Aug 8, 2005

Jean Reverdy et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) "La Riene Blanche" 2005 ($19, Kysela): Beautifully balanced and integrated, this wine features very fresh fruit notes centered on lime and tart apple notes, with lots of zesty but ripe acidity that never seems screechy or sour. Interesting mineral nuances lend complexity, and the whole package is admirably complete and integrated. 89 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Joseph Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Chatellenie” 2018 ($29):

To my mind, authentic Sancerre delivers more than simply Sauvignon Blanc bite and grassy fruitiness. And this one does just that. Though not as mineral-y as some — I suspect because of the ripeness of the vintage — a lovely chalk-y mineral component still peeks through and is especially apparent in the finish. Its sturdiness makes it a fine choice for a roast chicken.
89 Michael Apstein Mar 24, 2020

Michel Redde, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) "Les Tuilières" 2004 ($25, Kobrand): Redde has captured the chalky minerality characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc grown in Sancerre with this wine. While there's none of the pungent herbaceousness often seen with Sauvignon Blanc grown in the New World, there's still plenty of vibrancy. It's spicy and cutting without being shrill. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2007

Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($23, Frederick Wildman): From a somewhat robust vintage, this highly recommendable Sancerre is nonetheless as bright and steely as midnight stars, with hints of toasted almonds in the bouquet and apricots on the palate. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jul 10, 2007

Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2006 ($26, Wildman):

It seems that as Sancerre continues to grow in popularity, more of them reflect the varietal, Sauvignon Blanc, than the chalky minerality for which the appellation is rightly known. Thankfully, Jolivet manages to capture the uniqueness of the area with this wine's mélange of herbaceous pungency underpinned by the classical chalkiness that defines Sancerre. A hint of green apple-like acidity keeps it refreshingly bright. 89 Michael Apstein Jun 3, 2008

Patient Cotat, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($25, Vineyard Brands): This wine shows admirable balance between substance and concentration on one hand and freshness and clarity on the other. The fruit is concentrated and ripe, but nicely balanced by fresh acidity and the slightest prickle from unresolved carbon dioxide. This gives a little extra lift to the wine, which is very enjoyable sipped on its own but also sufficiently robust to pair nicely with light fish or chicken dishes. 89 Michael Franz Sep 5, 2006

Patient Cotat, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2004 ($18, Vineyard Brands): Nearly two years after these grapes were picked, this wine is still crackling with refreshing acidity. Driving flavors of lime and tart apple are bright and focused, with nice mineral edging lending added interest. Light in body but sufficiently substantial to work with most seafood dishes and lighter preparations of chicken with citrus rind or juice involved, this is an excellent Sancerre in the classic mold. 89 Michael Franz Jun 27, 2006

Comte Lafond, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2007 ($34, Maisons Marques and Domaines): By contrast to the many now-familiar Marlborough Sauvignons from New Zealand, this bottling is lean and lemony, with a truly light-bodied profile and subtle flavors that will help it work well with simple shellfish dishes (read, raw oysters) or delicate fish dishes. Nice mineral tinges in the finish lend additional interest, and though the wine is pricey, it will perform very well (and better than almost any alternative of which I can think) if used in the correct food application. 88 Michael Franz Mar 9, 2010

Domaine Dominique and Janine Crochet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($20, Simon N Cellars): I can now add Dominique and Janine to the list of Crochets who make distinctive Sancerre having found this one on a restaurant wine list in Richmond. With so many wines from Sancerre tasting more like simple Sauvignon Blanc, it’s always a treat to discover a producer’s whose bottling delivers the chalky minerality for which the appellation is known. And at a reasonable price. Nuances of herbs and grass complement the expected stony notes. A lemony finish keeps it fresh and lively. It was an excellent foil for the intensity of steamed mussels, but it would go well with a broad range of seafood. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010

Domaine Durand, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Réserve 2012 ($17, Monsieur Touton): A solid Sancerre reflecting its origins, not just the Sauvignon Blanc grape, Durand’s 2012 delivers nice bite, without being aggressive. Citrus elements dazzle the palette in the finish. It’s refreshing and a good choice for mussels or other shellfish.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 23, 2013

Domaine Reverdy, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Cuvée “Les Coutes” 2004 ($20, David Bowler Wines): Quite a full, rich wine, especially for the 2004 vintage. The 2004 Les Coutes has pure citrus aromas and flavors with a clean finish. It's perfect for drinking now. 88 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Domaine Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($20, Vineyard Brands): This is an uncommonly rounded, soft Sancerre, with generous fruit and relatively low minerality. There's plenty of acidity to keep the whole package balanced and fresh, but by contrast to the more common profile of lean, taut, nervy Sancerre, this is nevertheless a departure. A fine choice for lighter fin fish dishes based on trout or pike. 88 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2006

J. de Villebois, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2018 ($26, Vineyard Brands):

Joost de Willebois, a Dutch financier, knows a business opportunity when he sees it. In 2004, he found a small Loire winery owned by someone who had no successor and he bought it with the idea of transforming it into something larger. J. de Villebois now makes a bevy of wines from Sauvignon Blanc, including this Sancerre and a Pouilly-Fumé (also reviewed this week.) Lovely by itself, this Sancerre becomes more fascinating for those of us who really want to understand the difference Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, which is made from the same grape, just grown across the river. This clean and bright Sancerre has energy and an attractive mouth-cleansing bite. Not aggressive, it awakens the palate.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 11, 2020

Merlin Cherrier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($22, Vintage '59 Imports):

Impeccably fresh and tightly focused, with nice mineral tinges accenting the core of citrus and apple fruit, this is a modern Sauvignon Blanc that still shows its origins from Sancerre. Light bodied and subtle but nevertheless flavorful and satisfying, this is a complete Sancerre that will pair beautifully with shellfish or serve very nicely as a stand-alone aperitif. 88 Michael Franz Oct 31, 2006

Remy Pannier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($22, Palm Bay): This very nice, classic Sancerre features correct, regionally-typical notes in all aromatic and flavor categories, but really pushes past expectations with an especially interesting minerality that shows up immediately in the first sniff and rides right through the long, subtle finish. Expressive but not overt, it is beautifully integrated, offering lots of subtle signals that are distinct but so well integrated that they form a seamless, coherent whole without getting lost in the shuffle. 88 Michael Franz Oct 3, 2006

Gérard Boulay, Sancerre á Chavignol (Loire Valley, France) Sancerre á Chavignol 2019 ($35):

Within the Sancerre appellation, the commune of Chavignol stands out for the intensity of its wines. It is also noted for its exemplary goat’s milk cheeses – the Crottin de Chavignol is among the world’s favorite chèvres. Sauvignon Blancs from Chavignol rank among the most distinctive in the world. Gérard Boulay’s 2019 Sancerre from Chavignol exhibits the striking character of the site. It shows a wonderful combination of lemon, grapefruit, pear and green apple fruit scents, followed by subtle notes of lily, peach and fresh herbs. The flavors of mouthwatering citrus, apple and pear fruits are backed by delicate floral and herbal hints. The texture is creamy in its intensity, offering remarkable richness for a Sauvignon Blanc wine. Try a Chavignol chèvre with this Sancerre and enjoy a perfect food and wine pairing.
93 Wayne Belding Oct 6, 2020

Pierre Prieur et Fils, Sancerre Blanc (Loire Valley, France) “Les Silex” 2021 ($40, Dionysos Imports):

The 2021 Les Silex Blanc is crisp and energetic, with crowd-pleasing fruit and an abundance of saline minerality. This exuberant Sauvignon Blanc quickly hits all the notes with a classic nose and flavors of apricot, lemon-lime zest, fresh hay, thyme, orange blossom, and honeysuckle over layers of stone fruits, Meyer lemon, and oyster shell minerality. The palate opens with freshness before melting into a truly endless and refreshingly thirst-quenching finish.
92 Miranda Franco Mar 19, 2024

Domaine J & F Bailly-Reverdy, Sancerre-Chavignol (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($19, Michael Skurnik): The 2005 Sancerres seem to be unusually full and rich for this appellation. The 2005 Bailly-Reverdy Sancerre-Chavignol has smoky aromas plus broad, minerally flavors. A very fine Sancerre that is ready to drink. A Daniel Johnnes Selection. 90 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Domaine Yves Martin, Sancerre-Chavignol (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($18, David Bowler Wines): The flavor of the 2005 Sancerre-Chavignol of Yves Martin is a great expression of the chalkiness of the soil in the region. It is concentrated, rich, and fruity, but has lively acidity. 89 Ed McCarthy Apr 3, 2007

Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “L’Insolite” 2015 ($40):

Thierry Germain is one of the most talented and enthusiastic winemakers in the Loire. He makes small quantities of outstanding individualistic reds and whites that are always worth the search. Take this one, for example, L’Insolite (unusual). Made from 95-year-old Chenin Blanc vines planted on silex, it conveys a hint of white flowers, minerals combined with freshness and verve. It’s both dry and riveting with the barest hint of fruitiness -- an unusual combination that makes for a thrilling wine. It’s a perfect choice for those occasions there’s a variety of food on the table because everyone has ordered something different. Or if you just want something truly great to drink.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018

Cave de Saumur, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “Les Pouches” 2009 ($13, Vignobles LVDH): Fragrant apples, peach, and lemon aromas introduce a joyously fruit-filled white, made entirely with Chenin Blanc grapes, that lingers effortlessly in a long, satisfying finish. Medium-weight, this is a definite crowd-pleaser for warm weather drinking. It has zesty acidity and a hint of limestone-tinged minerality and thus tastes bright and refreshing, but is at the same time rich enough to hold its own with fairly hearty poultry and seafood dishes. 90 Paul Lukacs Apr 19, 2011

Cave de Saumur, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) "Les Pouches" 2018 ($16, Fruit of the Vines, Inc.):

This bright and juicy Chenin Blanc from the Saumur appellation of the Loire Valley is made for warm summer lunches, dinners and picnics. Light yellow color and white peach, pink grapefruit, aromas with a hint of lychee and wet stone announce flavors of white peach, Granny Smith apple Meyer lemon with a creamy texture invigorated by zesty acidity. The grapes are from 40-plus year old vines grown in the Les Pouches vineyard and made by members of the Cave de Saumur cooperative. It is fermented at cool temperature, aged on its lees for four months in stainless steel, bottled then stored in the limestone caves near the Loire River, the longest river in France.
89 Rebecca Murphy Jun 15, 2021

Domaine du Pas Saint Martin, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) Chenin Blanc 2020 ($22, Regal Wine Imports):

Domaine du Pas Saint Martin’s “La Pierre Frite” Chenin Blanc is organically farmed on soils that are limestone rich. Straw colored with an attractive aroma of fresh baked bread and ripe pear, it is medium bodied with a lovely, smooth texture that carries bright flavors of melon and pear fruit. Some lees contact adds depth and viscosity. The finish starts out with a hint of sweetness that quickly fades as the pear fruit carries the day and rounds out the finish. A "drink now" wine.
88 Norm Roby Sep 20, 2022

Domaine Guiberteau, Saumur Blanc (Loire Valley, France) Clos de Guichaux 2016 ($41, Becky Wasserman & Co.):

Domaine Guiberteau is one of Saumur’s top producers. As much as I hate to say it because it diminishes my role as a critic, I will: It’s hard to go wrong just picking their wines blindly. Their Clos de Guichaux, located within a stone’s throw of the hill of Brézé, the most revered portion of the appellation, has the same tuffeau (sandy limestone) soil that allows Chenin blanc to express itself clearly. And similar to wines from Brézé, it displays a stone-y edginess that complements the subtle fruitiness of Chenin Blanc. A long and penetrating zesty citrus finish amplifies its qualities. I’d give this youthful wine a few more years to open, judging from the way it blossomed the next day.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2019

Château Yvonne, Saumur Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($64, Elite Wines Imports):

Chateau Yvonne was founded by monks in the 16th century, though it was resurrected to life post-abandonment by Jean-Francois and Yvonne Lamunière 500 years later. In 2007, Matthieu Vallée took over and decided to keep the name Château Yvonne in hommage to the incredible work done by the previous owners. Yvonne’s production remains extremely low, averaging only 2000 cases annually. The 2020 Saumur Blanc is an intensely aromatic rendition of Chenin Blanc with an immediate burst of citrus fruits. There are also delicate floral hints, with aromas of white flowers and a touch of honeysuckle. On the palate, lemon and grapefruit notes take center stage, glimmering with brisk acidity and providing an invigorating taste. A subtle mineral undertone adds depth and complexity to the wine. It is delicious now, a testament to what makes Chenin Blanc so special.
93 Miranda Franco Feb 6, 2024

Château Yvonne, Saumur Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2017 ($52, Oz Wine Company):

Most of the wine made from Chenin Blanc, the primary white grape in Saumur, went into sparkling wine or non-distinguished still wine. That has changed over the last couple of decades, with talented and focused producers, such as Château Yvonne, and others. Château Yvonne’s tightly-wound 2017 displays enormous energy and a dazzling interplay of Chenin Blanc’s subtle citrus fruitiness and minerality. I’d put it in the cellar for a few years, but if you’re drinking it this summer with spiced Asian fare or sushi -- combinations I highly recommend -- open it a couple of hours in advance.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2019

Clos des Perrieres, Savennieres (Loire Valley) 2002 ($29, Rosenthal Wine Merchants): Nowhere else in the world does the Chenin Blanc variety rise to such heights as in Savennières, a district of Anjou in the Central Loire Valley. The 2002 Clos des Perrières (one of a handful of great Savennières producers) is oh so crisp and concentrated, with intensely flavored minerally notes and a lengthy finish. A racy wine, that should age well for a few decades. 91 Ed McCarthy Apr 26, 2006

Clos des Perrieres, Savennieres (Loire Valley) 2002 ($29, Rosenthal Wine Merchant): Nowhere else in the world does the Chenin Blanc variety rise to such heights as in Savennières, a district of Anjou in the Central Loire Valley. The 2002 Clos des Perrières (one of a handful of great Savennières producers) is oh so crisp and concentrated, with intensely flavored minerally notes and a lengthy finish. A racy wine, that should age well for a few decades. 91 Ed McCarthy Apr 4, 2006

Domaine Baumard, Savennieres (Loire Valley, France) 2001 ($20, ExCellars):
Domaine Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2001 ($20, ExCellars): Savennières, a small appellation just down the Loire

River from Vouvray, is another example in of why location matters. The grape, Chenin Blanc, is the same as in Vouvray, but here it is planted on slate or schist whereas in Vouvray the soil is mostly chalky. As a result, Savennières in general, and certainly this one from one of the foremost producers in the area, have a pronounced minerality. This wine (not Baumard's current release but still available at the wholesale level) has opened up nicely since it first appeared on these shores. In addition to its signature minerality, it harbors an attractive nuance of ripe -- but not pungent -- cheese. The bracing acidity, characteristic of all of Baumard's wine, has softened a bit with age. This unoaked, but full-bodied, dry, white Loire wine would match well with rich dishes. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007

Domaine des Baumard, Savennieres (Loire Valley, France) "Clos du Papillon" 2001 ($19, Ex Cellars): There are but a handful of sites in the world that are optimal for the Chenin Blanc grape, and Savennieres, in the heart of France's Loire Valley, is one of them. Chenin Blanc is capable of producing extraordinary complexity, but it needs bracing acidity behind the intense fruit or the result is wine that is dull and flabby. The coolness of the Loire is ideal. Baumard's Clos du Papillon offers a beautiful straw and honey nose, richness and depth on the palate and a long, lingering finish. Typical of Savennieres, it improves in the glass as it gets air. 89 Robert Whitley Sep 1, 2005

Domaine du Closel, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2016 ($50):

An extraordinary wine from an obscure area, the Domaine du Closel’s Savennières is thrilling in the best sense of the word. Thrilling because you don’t expect it. As in, where did this come from and why haven’t I heard about these wines? Well, Savennières is a tiny appellation in Loire that produces some grand dry white wines from Chenin Blanc, but has limited visibility and availability. The wines, in the best producers’ hands, such as Domaine du Closel, are extraordinary and worth the effort to find them. This one, for example, delivers power and weight, without a trace of heaviness (nor any oak) with elegance and persistence. Focused and mineral-y, it expands on the palate and seemingly lasts forever. This is definitely not a frilly Chenin Blanc-based wine for sipping on the patio in the summer. It calls for a regal meal because it’s a regal wine. Think of it as a Le Montrachet equivalent at a tenth the price.
97 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2018

Domaine FL, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Roche aux Moines 2007 ($53, Daniel Johnnes Selections/Michael Skurnick Wines): Domaine FL is a domaine established within the last decade with the acquisition of most of the vineyards of the well-established grower and producer, Jo Pithon, by Philippe Fournier, head of the French telecommunication company, Afone. With the acquisition from Pithon, Domaine FL became one of eight proprietors of the famed Roche aux Moines vineyard in Savennières, home to world’s best expression of dry Chenin Blanc. Penetrating and focused, this is great wine. It’s brilliantly clean with layers of minerality and a lovely granitic edge all amplified by a limey finish. Despite a tightly wound nature, it conveys an alluring richness and concentration. At this stage it reveals only a hint of its grandeur. Give it another five years or so to allow its real complexity to unfold. 95 Michael Apstein May 25, 2010

Château de l’Éperonnière, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Chenin Blanc “La Croix Picot” 2019 ($39, Rosenthal Wine Merchant):

This is a stunning Chenin Blanc from the Savennières appellation in the Loire Valley. The broader region is known for sweeter wines but not Savennières, which, as in this instance, is dry. The wine shows bright acidity and a creamy textured body — an uncommon but welcomed pairing. Equally as exciting are the bruised apples, toasted pineapple, limestone minerality, and vanilla cream notes. This wine has enough going on to drink by itself but has all of the structural notes to pair wonderfully with everything from cassoulet to crab cakes.
94 Vince Simmon Jan 3, 2023

Château d’Épiré, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2018 ($26, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Chenin Blanc makes a wide range of wine, from this bone-dry version to fruity ones and lusciously sweet examples. Although regulations for Savennières, a small 350-acre appellation on the north side of the Loire River just southwest of Angers, allow for sweet wines, in reality the vast majority of wines from the appellation are dry. Indeed, the claim to fame for Savennières wines is their bone dry and mineraly expression of Chenin Blanc, which improve with bottle age. This one from Château d’Épiré, a top producer, displays good concentration and depth. There is a floral element, and then, wham — lots of minerality and even a touch of welcomed bitterness in the finish. Cutting and persistent, it opens in the glass and lingers seemingly forever. This is serious stuff, so don’t rush it.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2022

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2010 ($22):

Savennières is an often-overlooked appellation in the Loire. Here the Chenin Blanc grape produces steely stony wines without a trace of sweetness, a characteristic usually associated with that grape. Without doubt, Baumard is one of the top producers of Savennières. The first whiff of Baumard’s 2010 Savennières, a hint of white flowers, is deceptive because on the palate the wine is steely pure with a clean cutting edginess. This precise white is a great choice to cut through a cream sauce. Indeed, it will cut through most anything.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2014

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2008 ($38): As good as Baumard’s regular bottling of Savennières is, this one, from a

particularly well-sited vineyard, is even better. With more complexity, the interplay of richness and savory herbal notes in the Clos du Papillon creates even more intrigue. Despite the increased concentration, this maintains impeccable balance and finesse.
93 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($22, Touton): Aside from a few vintners in South Africa (who may have a point), Savennières is almost indisputably the greatest dry rendition of Chenin Blanc, which is in turn among the world’s greatest white grape varieties

in the opinion of most experienced tasters (if not the general public, unfortunately). In light of all these superlatives, and in view of the fact that this producer’s Clos des Papillon bottling is highly prized by those who know its many charms, Domaine des Baumard’s “regular” bottling of Savennières is easily overlooked. I confess that this is a mistake of which I am myself guilty, but when tasting it recently, I saw the error of my ways instantly. The 2008 rendition shows juicy, succulent peach fruit that is effectively focused and lifted by a refreshing dash of citrus acidity in the finish. There’s also a lovely minerality in the finish that makes this enduringly interesting sip after sip. 92 Michael Franz Sep 13, 2011

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2002 ($20, Ex Cellars): Anyone who believes that Chenin Blanc makes only insipid dry wine has never tasted Baumard's Savennières. The 2002 has a magical combination of honey-like ripeness (without being sweet) intertwined with an alluring minerality. A versatile wine with food, it is ideal with flavorful Asian fare. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($25, Ex Cellars): A compelling example of Savenniéres, a totally dry white made from Chenin Blanc that, in addition to displaying this grape’s natural green apple, peach, and pear fruit flavor, offers chalky, mineral-rich undertones that give it intriguing complexity. Savennières often needs ten years or so to even begin to reveal its nuances, but this now almost four year-old is tasting beautiful right now.
92 Paul Lukacs Aug 4, 2009

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($24): Savennières, a tiny appellation on the Loire River, makes unique dry and racy wines from Chenin Blanc, a grape better known for sweet wines. Baumard is one of the appellation’s leading producers. Baumard’s 2008, bottled under screw cap to preserve freshness, has an alluring combination of honey-like, but not sweet, richness and savory, sharp, che 91 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012

Château d’Epiré, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Especiale” 2007 ($28, Kermit Lynch): Château d'Epiré is one the leading properties in Savennières, a tiny (300-acre) appellation just west of Angers that produces the world's best dry Chenin Blanc. This 'Cuvée Especiale' is bottled without filtration exclusively for Kermit Lynch. The wine, always reticent when young, is vigorous and bright. It carries the hallmark combination of honey-like richness (but definitely not sweetness) and earthy minerality of Savennières. I would give it a couple of years to soften and develop even more complexity. You will not be disappointed with this unique wine. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008

Domaine du Closel, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) “La Jalousie” Château des Vaults 2010 ($25, Louis/Dressner): Savennières is a dry, taut and focused expression of Chenin Blanc. This wine proves the rule, and for an accessible price. The lean mineral nose translates to the palate. A few minutes’ wait allows the characteristic lanolin, quince, Granny Smith apple, and Anjou pear notes to emerge. Uncooked grains and a hint of spring greens provide more dimensions. The steely, almost tart, acidity, waxy-textured palate, and crisp stony mineral and bitter lemon finish are benchmarks of the style. The sum of its qualities make this wine a good-value introduction to Savennières. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012

Domaine Aux Moines, Savennières Roche aux Moines (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($48):

Savennières Roche aux Moines is one of two crus of the greater Savennières appellation (the other is Coulée de Serrant). Though the tiny area (80 acres) has been known for distinctive wines since the 12th century, it received its own appellation, carved out of the broader Savennières, in 2011. It takes its name from the monks who planted the vines — Monks’ Rock. The appellation regulations, get this, prohibit the use of chemical herbicides during farming. Indeed, most producers here, such as Domaine aux Moines, are organic and that domaine is working towards biodynamic certification. Wines from Savennières Roche aux Moines, like all the wines from Savennières, must be made from Chenin Blanc and can be either dry or sweet. This one is cutting, clean and precise, combining the barest hint of fruitiness with striking minerality. With good weight and density, it shows the heights Chenin Blanc can achieve in the right hands when planted in a uniquely favorable spot. It has a real presence and great length. It would be an ideal choice for thick slab of grilled swordfish.
95 Michael Apstein May 24, 2022

Domaine de la Pépière, Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Muscadet Sur Lie 2018 ($16, Louis/Dressner):

This is a refreshing white from vineyards in the Pays Nantais -- where the Loire River empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The Sèvre et Maine district is the best growing area in the wider Muscadet region. The Domaine de la Pépière is a top estate for Muscadet production. Their organically grown vines are planted in sandy, granitic soils and they purchase a small amount of fruit for this bottling from their neighbors. The result is a Muscadet with a bit more richness and roundness than the norm. The 2018 La Pépie Muscadet has an attractive bouquet of lemon zest, pear, fresh-bread yeast and delicate flowers. Clean and lively on the palate, the ripe citrus and pear fruits are enhanced by the yeasty richness and a crisp and dry finish. It’s a perfect wine to pair with fresh seafood dishes.
90 Wayne Belding Sep 10, 2019

Domaine de la Chaise, Touraine (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20, Gabriella Imports):

Sauvignon Blanc rules in Touraine’s wine district, accounting for more than half of the region’s total production. With its chalky soils and proximity to the beautiful Loire River, this is a unique viticultural region. Family owned Domaine de la Chaise, which includes some 140 acres of vines, has been producing wine here for six generations. This Sauvignon Blanc, which has been aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks, is enticingly aromatic and richly flavored -- think citrus, notably lemonade without the overt sweetness. Subtle notes of minerality add to the overall taste profile. A terrific partner for almost all seafood.
92 Marguerite Thomas Sep 21, 2021

Domaine de la Garrelière, Touraine (Loire Valley, France) "Cuvée Cendrillon" 2005 ($16, Vintage '59 Imports): A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, this wine is certainly as complex and interesting as any I've ever tasted from

Touraine. The Sauvignon lends a citrus note that works very nicely with the pear and baked apple notes that seem to stem from the Chenin and Chardonnay. Of these latter two, the Chenin notes are much more prominent, and the overall impression from aroma to midpalate to finish has the wine starting and ending with fresh Sauvignon notes, with the middle filled in with rich, high-class Chenin. This works very nicely in practice, and I hasten to add that my account isn't as seamless as the wine seems when experienced directly, which is very much to its credit. 89 Michael Franz Feb 20, 2007

Jean-François Merieau, Touraine (Loire Valley, France) “Les Arpents des Vaudons” 2009 ($16, Jon-David Headrick Selections): This is the kind of wine that consumers are always searching for: one that over delivers for its appellation. The Touraine appellation pales in prestige to ones like Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé, but, like wines from those areas, this wine delivers the appealing grapefruit-like bite of Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes come from a single parcel of 60-year old vines, which accounts for its complexity. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks preserves its bright citrus tinged fruit quality while lees-stirring adds just a hint of creaminess. It’s an excellent buy. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 3, 2010

J. de Villebois, Touraine AOP (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($16, Vineyard Brands):

The Loire Valley is home to a vast number of wines made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, the best known of which are those from Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé appellations. But other appellations, such as the wider one, Tourraine, should not be forgotten, especially as prices of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé rise. This one has a subtle herbal or grassy bite. Its gentle profile makes it work as a stand-alone aperitif, but it has enough bite to cut through spicy shrimp scampi.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 24, 2020

Domaine de Bernier, Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France (Loire Valley, France) Chardonnay 2004 ($9, Vineyard Brands): The grapes for this outstanding value come from vineyards just outside the appellation of Muscadet in the western Loire Valley. The wine, however tastes nothing like Muscadet. Nor will it remind you of New World Chardonnay. Instead, it bears more than a passing resemblance to good Chablis--at a quarter of the price. Mostly unoaked, this wine tastes bright and fresh, with apple and citrus fruit flavors, crisp acidity, a mineral-tinged undertone, and beautiful balance. A delicate, graceful rendition of Chardonnay, it's a steal. 90 Paul Lukacs Jan 31, 2006

Moulin d’Argent, Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France (Loire Valley, France) Chardonnay “Vielles Vignes” 2006 ($12, Henry Wine Group): A lithe white from the western Loire Valley, marked by crisp apple fruit and an intriguing layer of stony minerality, this Chardonnay offers an awful lot of bang for not many bucks. Do note, though, that the bang is subtle and nuanced, not loud and obvious. 89 Paul Lukacs Jan 22, 2008

Domaine de Bernier, Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France (Loire Valley, France) Chardonnay 2005 ($12, Vineyard Brands): This delightfully refreshing wine hails from the Nantes region of the Loire Valley-Muscadet country. Light and lively, it is filled with fresh autumn fruit flavors, and would be a delicious choice for before dinner sipping (or for pairing with light seafood dishes). Uncomplicated but very, very appealing, it serves as a reminder that the French AOC system isn't foolproof. Chardonnay, after all, isn't supposed to succeed in the eastern Loire. This wine succeeds-deliciously. 88 Michael Franz Oct 31, 2006

Domaine de Bernier, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Chardonnay 2015 ($12, Vineyard Brands):

Always a solid choice, this unoaked Chardonnay tastes especially good in 2015. It offers bright apple and pear fruit flavors, with firm acidity and good length, so proves extremely refreshing. It also is an outstanding value, especially since many retailers discount it under $10. I can’t think of a better white wine choice for anyone planning a summer party on the patio or beside the pool.
90 Paul Lukacs Jul 12, 2016

Pascal Jolivet, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (France) Sauvignon Blanc "Attitude" 2007 ($19, Frederick Wildman): I wouldn't blame you if you were hesitant to plunk down $19 for a Vin de Pays wine when that sum could certainly net you a bottle of

Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé, but if you get hung up on appellation designations and pass on this, you'll have missed a terrific wine. It shows very expressive fruit that is fully ripe and fairly substantial, and yet it still shows nice varietal character in the form of nice grassy, herbal aromatics and fruit that recalls citrus fruit more than melon. A very nice mineral note in the finish provides added interest. A great choice for shellfish or lighter finfish dishes. 90 Michael Franz Feb 10, 2009

Patient Cottat, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($11, Vineyard Brands): The Fournier family owns three domaines in and around Sancerre, in the heart of the Loire Valley, and is one of that region’s leading producers. In addition to their excellent appellation controllée Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, they produce this bright and lively Sauvignon Blanc, the same grape used in those two appellations. (Vin de Pays regulations allow varietal labeling whereas appellation controllée regulations generally forbid it.) While it lacks the complexity and depth of Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé--and the price--it delivers zesty, citric-tinged flavors that would match well with shellfish or simply prepared seafood dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2009

Clos de Nouys, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Sec 2016 ($22):

Vouvray is potentially one of the world’s great wines. Made from Chenin Blanc, a grape that, like Riesling or Chardonnay, can transmit the flavors of the site beautifully. But sadly, buying it is tricky and can be frustrating because it has a wide range of styles, from sweet to dry and riveting. Discerning the difference from the label is often impossible. Thankfully, Clos de Nouys, one the great, established producers in Vouvray, makes a range of styles, from dry (this one) to sweet that are clearly labeled. Steely dry, this Vouvray has glorious acidity that amplifies the wine’s delicate hints of white peaches. The ying/yang combination of subtle fruitiness and zingy acidity makes it a versatile wine for anything from spiced Asian fare to pork loin. Long and refined and bursting with energy, it will convert you to a Vouvray lover.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2018

Domaine du Clos Naudin, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Moelleux 2011 ($53):

Philippe Foreau and his family-owned estate, Domaine du Clos Naudin, is one of the stars of Vouvray. The Domaine consists of just under 30 acres of Chenin Blanc vines, from which Foreau makes a stunning range of wines. This one, Moelleux, which means sweet, has apricot nuances and an invigorating freshness. A vibrant and cutting crispness supports the richness so the wine is not cloying or heavy. This rich and precise wine would be great as dessert. I avoiding pairing sweet wines with sweet desserts because I think they fight. But it would be a great choice with a cheese course.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2015

Domaine Huet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Le Mont Sec 2020 ($44, The Rare Wine Company):

Domaine Huet is legendary for the quality and longevity of its wines. This dry, young and pleasing Chenin Blanc offers pleasure today and a glimpse of what may develop over time. It displays a pale golden color and ethereal aromas of peach, melon, kiwi and light, dusty mineral notes. Its graceful flavors of peach, melon and a bit of green apple seem to float in the mouth. However, if they linger on the tongue, you get a sense of the power of its structure and its precise acidity. Apparently, the wines from Le Mont are shy at first but develop character and complexity with age. Enjoy it now as an aperitif or with a vegetarian bean soup or roast chicken. Founder Victor Huët suffered damage to his lungs and nerves in World War I, which drove him to seek respite in Vouvray in the Loire Valley. He bought his first vineyard, Le Haut-Lieu, in 1928. Thus was born Domaine Huet. His son, Gaston, worked at the winery for 55 years, not counting the five years he spent in at WWII German POW camp. During his tenure he purchased additional vineyards Le Mont and Clos du Bourg. Today the estate is owned by Anthony Hwang, whose children live at and manage the estate.
94 Rebecca Murphy Mar 22, 2022

Foreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut Reserve 1995 ($27, Rosenthal): An eye-opener (at least to me) this sparkling Vouvray (100% Chenin Blanc) tastes deep and rich, with a patina of bottle age but crisp acidity, so many years of life ahead of it. Very tasty on its own, the wine shines even more brightly when paired with food. If you're not sure that sparklng wine belongs on your dinner table, this one is guaranteed to convert you. 93 Paul Lukacs Oct 11, 2005

Philippe Foreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut Réserve "Clos des Naudins" 1995 ($27, Rosenthal Wine Merchants): Philippe Foreau is the third generation of his family to produce Vouvray from the Chenin Blanc vineyards established by his grandfather in 1923. With elegance, complexity and a distinctive personality, this wine is an absolute charmer. Among its attributes are a hint of baked apple in the aroma, gratifying creaminess, and something reminiscent of the brulée part of crème brulée (but not the extreme sweetness.) It has vibrant, tiny bubbles, impressive length and surprising freshness given its age--proof that the best made sparkling Vouvray can age beautifully. 93 Marguerite Thomas Dec 26, 2005

Vigneau-Chevreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2014 ($21, Michael Corso Selection): I love Vouvray. My frustration with the wines is that it’s often difficult to tell the level of sweetness before pulling the cork. Thankfully, this one, labeled Sec, accurately describes the wine. It captures the tension -- the steely dryness combined with a delicate fruitiness -- that makes Vouvray so invigorating. Its energy is both amplified and offset by a lacey fruity flowery aspect that the Chenin Blanc grape conveys. A perfect summertime wine, it’s a great choice for roast pork this fall or the you-know-what at Thanksgiving.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2016

Château de Montfort, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Demi Sec 2013 ($16): It’s worth repeating: The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines. A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness. And this wine is a perfect example. The label reads “Demi-Sec,” which implies sweetness. But it’s not really a sweet wine because electrifying acidity creates a wonderful tension and edginess. Fruity… yes. Sweet… no. This is a great choice for flavorful dishes -- either Asian influenced or something like fettuccine and pesto. You’ll get a lot of enjoyment for the price. Don’t miss it.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2015

Didier Champalou, Vouvray (Loire Valley) "Cuvee Fondreaux" Demi Sec 2004 ($18, Winebow): Vouvray was the first great Central Loire Valley region that gained recognition for its excellent Chenin Blanc wines, but the area generally slipped in quality, mainly through over-production, and allowed Savennières to steal its thunder. But a renaissance is now taking place in Vouvray, and one of the movements leaders is the outstanding producer Didier Champalou. Vouvray comes in dry (sec), semi-dry (demi sec), and sweet (moelleux) styles, depending on the ripeness of the vintage. In less ripe vintages, only sec can be made; demi secs are generally of higher quality than the secs. The 2004 "Cuvée Fondreaux" Demi Sec is outstanding, the best in the group at a recent Vouvray tasting. It is minerally, perfumed with hints of citrus blossom and honey, combined with lengthy mineral flavors that linger on the palate. 92 Ed McCarthy Apr 4, 2006

Didier Champalou, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) 'Couvee Fondreaux' Demi-Sec 2004 ($18, Winebow): Vouvray was the first great Central Loire Valley region which gained recognition for its excellent Chenin Blanc wines, but the area generally slipped in quality, mainly through over-production, and allowed Savennières to steal its thunder. But a renaissance is now taking place in Vouvray, and one of the movement's leaders is the outstanding producer, Didier Champalou. Vouvray comes in dry (sec), semi-dry (demi sec), and sweet (moelleux) styles, depending on the ripeness of the vintage. In less ripe vintages, only sec can be made; demi secs are generally of higher quality than the secs. The 2004 Cuvée Fondreaux" Demi Sec is outstanding, the best in the group at a recent Vouvray tasting. It is minerally, perfumed with hints of citrus blossom and honey, combined with lengthy mineral flavors that linger on the palate. 92 Ed McCarthy Apr 26, 2006

Domaine d’Orfeuilles, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Les Coudraies 2012 ($16, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines. A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness. Here’s yet another example. There’s no indication on the front label regarding level of sweetness. The back label says, “medium dry,” a term which is impossible to quantify or define. The wine, however, is easy to recommend because it’s an impeccable balance of fruitiness and invigorating energy. Fresh and lively, it cleans your palate with each sip. A waxy texture and a lingering, almost honeyed -- yet not sweet--richness adds to its appeal. It’s guaranteed to freshen the most sultry summer day.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2015

Domaine Huet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Le Mont “Sec” 2010 ($32, The Rare Wine Company): If this were hockey, this wine would have scored a hat trick (three goals in a game by a single player for the non-hockey fans)--a great producer, a great vineyard and a great vintage. The problem with Vouvray in general is the difficulty knowing the level of sweetness of the wine from the label. No problem here. The label clearly states Sec and the wine is dry with riveting acidity balancing the delicate pear and apple-like fruit notes. The tension and balance between the invigorating acidity and fleeting fruitiness persists throughout the meal. It’s a great option for the plethora of diverse flavors found in sushi. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2012

Champalou, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) 2020 ($23, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Very pale yellow with golden highlights and aromas of apple, citrus with chalky mineral notes welcome ripe and round flavors of apple, apricot, mango with a touch of lime, and herbal tea. It has a bit of sweetness, but it perfectly balances Chenin Blanc’s steely acidity so the overall effect is ripe, smooth and delectable. It will be a charming partner for Butternut squash soup or roasted pork tenderloin. Vignerons Catherine and Didier Champalou, who come from winemaking families, began making their wines in 1983. Their daughter, Céline, recently joined the winemaking team.
91 Rebecca Murphy Feb 22, 2022

Domaine de la Robinière , Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Bel Air” Sec 2013 ($15): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines. A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness. Domaine de la Robinière (a.k.a. Vincent& Julien Raimbault) help the consumer by labeling their “Bel Air” cuvée as Sec -- and it is dry with exhilarating green apple-like freshness that enhances its bracing minerality. This is a perfect summertime wine either as a stand-alone aperitif or with grilled swordfish.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2015

François Chidaine, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($23, Beaune Imports): “Les Argiles” is one of those uniquely delicious white wines that fills the mouth with richness yet is also as pure and crisp as a winter evening. Trenchant minerality overlaps layers of ripe pear, candied citrus peel and toffee-apples. It’s a honey of a wine on its own, and stellar with food as well. 91 Marguerite Thomas Feb 1, 2011

Remy Pannier, Vouvray (Loire, France) 2016 ($23, Palm Bay International):

A gem of a wine, Remy Pannier’s Vouvray has both an appealing gold color and enticing aromas as well as pronounced Bartlett pear flavors. The overall balance is nicely poised between ripe fruit elements, natural acidity and a vein of chalky minerality. Its gossamer sweetness makes this Vouvray an excellent aperitif, but it also can be a surprisingly successful partner with a range of different foods, from spicy Asian dishes to the relative simplicity of rotisserie chicken.
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 2, 2019

Champalou, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($17, Kermit Lynch): Sparkling wines from the Loire Valley, usually made from Chenin Blanc, are less 'serious' than Champagne. But sometimes lively, less weighty fizz is just what you want. The major problem with bubbly from the Loire is that many are harsh and acidic. Champalou's is neither. Lively and fresh, yes, but most importantly, this suave sparkler is balanced with sufficient ripe fruitiness to harmonize with the acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 26, 2006

François Chidaine, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Les Argiles” 2012 ($25, Beaune Imports): Vouvray is often shunned because the consumer can't discern the level of sweetness from the label. Well, there’s no reason to shun Chidaine, one of the leaders in Vouvray. His 2012 Les Argiles is fruity, yet dry, and pleasantly piercing, which makes it positively mouth cleansing. It’s a brilliant combination of delicate peach-like nuances and riveting acidity. Fresh, clean and invigorating, it would be the perfect choice for turkey this Thanksgiving.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013

Bernard Fouquet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Chenin Blanc Domaine des Aubuisières “Cuvée de Silex” 2013 ($16, Weygandt): This is a pure and refreshing Vouvray that will provide many years of enjoyment. The nose shows apple, pear, lemon and pineapple fruits backed by hints of chalk, lanolin, flowers and herbs. On the palate, it is bright and lively with the racy acidity of Loire Chenin Blanc balanced by just a touch of sweetness. The fruit flavors are deliciously pure and enhanced by the floral and herbal complexity. Good Vouvray like this one can age beautifully for a decade, becoming more honeyed and rich as it ages.
89 Wayne Belding Sep 16, 2014

Domaine Pichot, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette 2006 ($15, Vineyard Brands): This wine is sweeter in some vintages than others, but invariably delicious. The 2006 rendition is really just off-dry, as the sweet notes of ripe peach and honey are effectively counterbalanced by fresh, zesty acidity. A delightful wine for summer sipping, this would also be a great match for fish, chicken or pork dishes with a bit of moderately hot spice in the preparation. 89 Michael Franz Jun 19, 2007

Domaine Pichot, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “La Peu d la Moriette” 2011 ($16, Vineyard Brands): Vouvray in general can be difficult for consumers because their level of sweetness can be difficult to discern from the label. Thankfully, Pichot’s is an easy choice. Both fruity and zesty, it has a wonderful tension and balance between the subtle sweetness and bracing acidity. It’s a versatile ying and yang kind of wine that stands by itself as you sit on the porch watching a sunset or accompanies ceviche at the dinner table. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012

Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2010 ($21, Cynthia Hurley Imports): Vouvray, an under-rated and misunderstood appellation, is home to some

terrific wines, like this one. But the stumbling block for consumers, which prevents more widespread appreciation of the category, is deciphering the level of sweetness. This one is almost bone dry and mineraly with delicate green apple notes. The flavors keep expanding in your mouth. This easy-to-recommend wine would go well with a pork roast. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2012

Benoit Gautier, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($16, Martin Scott): A slighter softer expression of Vouvray, there’s nonetheless enough acidity to keep the wine clean and fresh. Delicate and floral when tasted alone, it blossomed when consumed with savory sausages. The barest hint of sweetness became a perfect foil for the spice of the meat. It would be an excellent choice for roast pork as well. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011

Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) 2006 ($18, Vineyard Brands): The wine has a rich golden color, along with apple pie and orange notes. It's medium-bodied and off-dry, with a pleasant honeyed sweetness. Due to its richness, I'm not sure how much I could drink in one sitting--but it would be fun to find out. 88 Tina Caputo Nov 25, 2008

Michel Picard, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Chenin Blanc 2015 ($13, Prestige):

With its stone fruit and honey aromas and flavors, finishing with a mild and refreshing acidity, this pleasantly off-dry Chenin Blanc from France is a terrific choice to pair with spicy/salty Asian foods. It can also be a good aperitif wine. 88 Marguerite Thomas Oct 3, 2017

Remy Pannier, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) 2007 ($14, Palm Bay Imports): Pannier is a class act in the Loire Valley, always delivering well-made wines regardless of price. This '07 Vouvray is a good example. It's fresh and clean, exhibiting juicy flavors of ripe pear and baked apple, with a touch of honeyed sweetness for a plush, rounded finish. Match this wine with goat cheeses or grilled fish. Perfect for warm summer afternoons because of its modest 11.5 percent alcohol. 88 Robert Whitley Jan 13, 2009

Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) 2005 ($13, Vineyard Brands): This wine is a little different each year, seeming a bit sweeter in some vintages than others, but it is always well balanced and delicious. The new release is quite notably sweet, with aromas and flavors of wild honey on a base of melon and fig fruit notes, but there's enough acidity and a pleasant hint of bitterness in the finish to keep the whole package in balance. 87 Michael Franz Jun 20, 2006

Remy Pannier, Vouvray AOC (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($21):

From Chenin Blanc’s ancestral home, this delightful Vouvray is what Vouvray has always aspired to be – unpretentious, fun and flavorful. Sweet pear and citrus tones prove refreshing from beginning to end. Well done! A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge.
92 Rich Cook Feb 2, 2021

Domaine Champalou, Vouvray AOC (Loire Valley, France) 2019 ($23, Kermit Lynch):

Now that summer is approaching, it is advisable to start drinking more world-class Chenin Blanc in all styles and from all regions. Chenin Blanc is a highly versatile grape with enough diversity to offer something to everyone from still, dry, sweet, sparkling, oaked, etc. If you like white wine, chances are you will love Chenin Blanc. It’s simply a matter of finding the style and region that appeals the most to you. Let's begin in Chenin Blanc's home, France's Loire Valley, with a version from Vouvray. The Champalou is a dry Chenin Blanc that boasts concentrated fresh green apple and citrus with a lingering richness of honeyed fruit and flowery notes. This wine is vibrant with mouthwatering and precise acidity. It is an exquisite example of classic Chenin Blanc. Be it this one or another, find your "Goldilocks" Chenin Blanc and proceed with the summer of Chenin.
91 Miranda Franco Apr 27, 2021

Rue de Perle, Vouvray AOC (Loire Valley, France) 2012 ($12): Bargain hunters will have to look long and hard to find a better value than this delicious dry Vouvray. On the palate the wine is bright and lively, with aromas of citrus and melon, made all the more intriguing by a thread of minerality that adds complexity on both the nose and palate. Judges at the 2014 Sommelier Challenge in San Diego awarded this value beauty a platinum medal and 94 points. 91 Robert Whitley Sep 23, 2014

Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($12, HB Wine Merchants):

Unbelievable value! That’s the best way to describe this Cabernet. It displays a wonderful — and rare at this price — balance of dark fruit and savory olive-like flavors. Wonderfully textured, it’s not flabby or soft. It’s structured, but not aggressive. By not overdoing it, they have resisted the temptation to try to make something grand or “important.” What they have made is classic and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a surprisingly long finish, complete with a hint of bitterness, for such a short price. Buy it by the case and enjoy it this summer while grilling burgers, steaks, or leg of lamb.
91 Michael Apstein May 19, 2020

Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Pinot Noir 2018 ($12, HB Wine Merchants):

European regulations for naming wines are Byzantine. The top tier is labeled Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) formerly known as Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC). (A quirk in regulations allow the French to continue to use the older AOC nomenclature.) A step below is Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP). IGP wines typically are labeled by grape name whereas AOC (AOP) wines are typically labeled by where the grapes are grown and usually prohibit the use of grape names, though that prohibition is not rigorously enforced at the lower prestige appellations, such as Bourgogne Rouge. Regulations are more relaxed for IGP wines, allowing for greater yields and a great choice of grapes. Hence, you see this Pinot Noir coming from outside of Burgundy. Rather than shunning this less prestigious IGP category, consumers should embrace it because they can offer exceptional value, as this wine and others from Domaines de Cabrials demonstrate. This uncomplicated wine delivers ripe black fruit flavors with a hint of savory nuances. Suave tannins and the right amount of acidity make it ready to drink now. Is it one of the most compelling Pinot Noirs I’ve ever tasted? No. Is it one of the best $12 Pinot Noirs I’ve ever tasted? Yes.
88 Michael Apstein May 12, 2020

Mas de la Dame, Alpilles IGP (Provence, France) “La Gourmande” Rouge 2017 ($15):

Sitting at the base of the Alpilles (little Alps) in Provence, practically adjacent to Les Baux de Provence, the vineyards of Mas de la Dame are some of the most beautifully situated ones in all of France. The near constant “mistral” wind makes organic viticulture there easier, which explains why this wine is made from organically grown grapes. A 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah, it delivers spicy red fruit-like flavors wrapped in mild tannins. It has sufficient oomph for roast duck breast, but the mild tannins allow you to chill it as well. It’s a great bargain.
88 Michael Apstein May 28, 2019

Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “La Tourtine” 2007 ($75, Kermit Lynch): The only question I have about this wine is whether it’s their best ever. Domaine Tempier is on everyone’s short list of Bandol’s finest producers. Their La Tourtine bottling comes from a vineyard on the slopes of the property. Wonderfully exotic with a marvelous combination of spice and fruit, it remains beautifully balanced. It’s long and intense without being overdone. Its polish and elegance is all the more remarkable given the wine’s power. It’s quite engaging now, although I suspect it will close down in a year or so and go into hibernation for five to ten years. So pop the cork now or be prepared to wait. If you wait, you’ll be rewarded. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 20, 2010

Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée Classique” 2006 ($50, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Tempier, arguably the best property in Bandol, is certainly responsible for introducing that appellation to American consumers. They produce this cuvée from several parcels spread around the appellation. Their Cuvée Classique has everything you'd want in Bandol, including layers of robust flavors tempered by fine tannins. Not overdone, nuances of herbs and earth add to the enjoyment. A fine choice for this autumn's fare, it will continue to develop and evolve so you can safely put some in the cellar. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Château Romassan, Bandol (Provence, France) 2002 ($48, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s. In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines. Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story. Not the typical earthy, intense Bandol, the 2002 Château is a touch lighter with more refinement and grace. It has none of the hardness that characterizes many southern French wines in 2002. Ready now, it would be a good choice for robust fare as we enter colder weather. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2008

Château Romassan, Bandol (Provence, France) 2002 ($48, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s. In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines. Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story. Not the typical earthy, intense Bandol, the 2002 Château is a touch lighter with more refinement and grace. It has none of the hardness that characterizes many southern French wines in 2002. Ready now, it would be a good choice for robust fare as we enter colder weather. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2008

Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée La Migoua” 2006 ($75, Kermit Lynch): This bottling comes from a separate, horseshoe-shaped hillside parcel separate from the Domaine that they acquired recently. Riper, with more punch, it is quite closed at this stage and seemingly lacks the complexity of their Cuvée Classique. It needs considerable time to unfold, as I'm sure it will given Domaine Tempier's track record. At this stage, it's a burly wine, lacking the immediate appealing finesse of the Cuvée Classique (also reviewed this week) and is more appropriate for the cellar as opposed to the dinner table. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Hecht & Bannier, Bandol (Provence, France) 2009 ($34, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Juicy and succulent, this weighty Bandol is surprisingly user-friendly now with just enough tannic-acid structure to frame the black fruit-like flavors without being aggressive or intrusive. Hints of earth complement its dark fruitiness. It carries its intensity and concentration with grace. It’s a good choice for hearty grilled fare.
87 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2013

Domaine de Gros Noré, Bandol (Provence, France) 2006 ($44, Kermit Lynch): Bandol, a small appellation in the south of France where the Mourvedre grape is king, is known for ripe intense red wines, such as this one. This robust wine, with deep black fruit character and herbal touches, is nicely balanced except for the noticeable heat--that's the 15% stated alcohol speaking--in the finish. 86 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Bastide de la Ciselette, Bandol Rouge AOC (Provence, France) 2019 ($40, Martine's Wines):

Bastide de la Ciselette may still be relatively new as a domaine — becoming the 57th estate of the AOC in 2010 — they have been tending the vineyards for many years, opting to sell their fruit to the local co-op. On the palate, this Bandol Rouge of 80 percent Mourvèdre and 20 percent Grenache is like blending Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Burgundy, and Bordeaux into one. You can taste the classic Mourvèdre flavors, such as blackberry, dark plum, and tobacco; however, this holds more Mediterranean flavors and is more smooth than typical Bandols. It also maintains perfect freshness and minerality alongside its polished black fruits. While deceptively approachable now, this will continue to come into its own over the next decade.
94 Miranda Franco Apr 18, 2023

Château Beaulieu, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence (Provence, France) Château des Gavelles Rouge 2003 ($12, Regal Wines): The 2003 Château des Gavelles red is a marvelous wine at this price, with aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries along with some herbal notes. A blend of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Syrah. 90 Ed McCarthy May 2, 2006

Chateau Minuty, Cotes de Provence (France) "Cuvee Prestige" 2004 ($30, Romano Brands): Château Minuty, one of the cru classé of the Côtes de Provence, is rightly known for its vibrant and stylish Rosé. But they make red wine, an easy drinking one and this, their Prestige bottling made entirely from Mourvedre. Thick, ripe and intense, it is layered and powerful but amazingly supple without astringent tannins. Not a summer sipping wine; pull the cork this fall as the temperature drops. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006

Domaine Saint André de Figuière, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rouge Vielles Vignes 2004 ($22, Frank Johnson Selections): Domaine Saint André de Figuière, which owns all of the vineyards of its wines, is quite proud of its old-vine (about 25 years-old) red, a substantial, dark-colored wine with tart, black cherry aromas and flavors and spicy, peppery notes. Made with 60 percent Mourvèdre, 25 percent Carignan, and 15 percent Syrah. A very impressive wine. 91 Ed McCarthy May 2, 2006

Domaines de Bertaud-Bélieu, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Blanc Prestige 2005 ($18, Bertaud-Bélieu USA): This producer's 2005 white, made from Rolle and Sémillon, is even better than its rosé. It is crisp and flavorful, with citrus aromas and flavors, and full-bodied enough to go with chicken as well as seafood. 91 Ed McCarthy May 2, 2006

Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2015 ($16, North Berkeley Imports; Skurnik Wines):

Though located in the heart of Provence, Les Baux de Provence, an appellation of barely 600 acres, is known for its reds, rather than its rosés. The allowed grapes include the usual Mediterranean suspects, Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan, among others, and, perhaps surprisingly, Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet in this blend can easily overwhelm, but Mas de Gourgonnier consistently gets it right, making fresh and lively reds. The 2015, weighing in at only 13 percent stated alcohol, delivers an engaging and thoroughly enjoyable combination of light red fruit, earth and herbal notes. Non-intrusive tannins make it easy to enjoy this summer when food calls for a lighter and lively red.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018

Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2018 ($20, Skurnik Wines):

Isn’t this exactly what you and your palate hope to find in a judiciously priced red wine from Provence, the lovely region in southern France? It is a rich and charming blend of multiple grapes including Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan coming from a family owned-and-operated estate that has been turning out organic wines for several decades. This bold and adroitly balanced blend is definitely a friendly partner for straightforward foods such as burgers, red-sauced pasta, and of course pizza.
90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 22, 2022

Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2016 ($17):

A blend of the usual Mediterranean grapes, Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, and Mourvèdre, this charming wine has more finesse than you might expect from wines from this sun-soaked part of France. It delivers a winning combination of bright red fruit-like notes, herbal nuances and spice. The tannins are mild, but add needed structure. Its suaveness sets it apart. It’s another excellent choice this summer with virtually anything you throw on the grill.
89 Michael Apstein May 28, 2019

Mas de la Dame, Les Baux de Provence (Provence, France) “La Gourmande” 2005 ($13, Palm Bay): This is a very strong value, with dark berry fruit showing very

impressive complexity around the edges, with accents of damp earth, spices, and fresh meat. Despite these descriptors, the wine is predominantly pure and fresh, with a core of delicious fruit but also some interesting nuances on the margin. 87 Michael Franz Jun 24, 2008

Domaine La Blaque, Pierrevert (Haute-Provence, France) Rouge 2021 ($23, Potomac Selections):

Located in the alpine foothills of northern Provence, Pierrevert is home to the highest elevation vineyards in France. Mr. Werner Pampus purchased Domaine La Blaque 11 years before Pierrevert received Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status in 1998. Today, Gilles Delsuc and his wife, Laurence, are trusted to make the wine and manage the vineyards. They make this Pierrevert Rouge using carbonic maceration, a process known for making fruit-oriented reds, which helps the cranberry, strawberry, and red plum notes push through the earthy-dominant structure of dried fall leaves, tobacco, leather, and iron minerality. This is an excellent bottle for any French wine lover.
89 Vince Simmon Jan 9, 2024

Routas, Vin du Pays du Var (Provence, France) Syrah "Cyrano" 2005 ($18, Routas USA): An attractive, pepper-scented red, evidencing plum and berry fruit, with moderate tannins in the finish, and fine balance. There is a smoky note in the wine, making it especially appropriate for pairing with barbecue. 88 Paul Lukacs Nov 20, 2007

Domaine Bunan, Bandol (Provence, France) 2016 ($20, Casa Bruno):

An attention-grabbing rosé, with stunningly expressive strawberry and other berry fruit flavors. Bright acidity on the finish contributes to this lovely wine’s fresh and refreshing character. It has enough heft to accompany light to medium-light foods such as shellfish, chicken, and summery salads.
91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 1, 2017

Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2004 ($28, Kermit Lynch): The bad news is that, whenever any commodity is manifestly the best of its kind, one pays accordingly. The good news is that, when you buy this wine, you are assured of getting the best of its kind. Tempier's rosé is consistently outstanding, and is perhaps the only wine of its kind that can actually improve for a year or so and then level off for a while before heading into decline. The 2004 is a bit less flashy at this stage than some prior vintages that I've tasted, but still outstandingly symmetrical in structural proportions, with precisely delineated aromas and flavors and unusually impressive length. If you can get past the imposing price, this is simply the best. 91 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2005

La Bastide Blanche, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2012 ($21, Weygandt Metzler):

Bandol, a small, but important, appellation in Provence on the Mediterranean just east of Marseille, produces mostly robust red wines primarily from Mourvèdre. The appellation allows production of Rosé as well. This one, a blend of Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache, combines the refreshing aspect of rosé with real substance that comes from Mourvèdre. It cuts through the humidity of summer like a hot knife through butter and is an ideal choice for things like a Niçoise salad or other summery light fare.
91 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2013

Domaine de la Tour du Bon, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2011 ($20, Kermit Lynch): This serious rosé, a Mourvèdre dominant (55%) blend that includes other typical Mediterranean varieties of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, will convert those few remaining people (myself included) who believe rosés are inherently insipid. This one certainly is not--it’s real wine with herbal notes that complement the berry flavors. A vibrantly drying finish refreshes the palate. Drink it with a hearty salad. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 21, 2012

Domaines Ott, Bandol AOC (Provence, France) Château Romassan Rosé 2019 ($52, Maisons, Marques and Domaines):

The name Ott is legendary in the wine world. They have specialized in making premium-quality rosé for four generations with three different wine estates in the Provence region of southwest France. Château de Selle, acquired 1912 and Clos Mireille, obtained in the 1930s are both in the Côtes de Provence appellation. Grenache is the major grape variety in their wines. Château Romassan, which became the third estate in 1956 is in the Bandol appellation, and here Mourvedre is the focus. Today the company is owned by Louis Roederer and run by founder Marcel Ott’s great-grandsons, cousins Christian and Jean-François Ott. The 2019 rosé from Château Romassan is made from 60% Mourvèdre, 25% Cinsault and 15% Grenache. The flavors are intense, and the mouthfeel is textured, a character not always found in a rosé. It is serious as well as delicious, with aromas and flavors of peaches, apples, pears and pomegranate with hints of dried herbs and flowers, and dusty minerals reminiscent of salty seaside beaches. While the aromas and flavors are enchanting, it is the structure, texture and mouthfeel that made time stand still for me. It can serve as wine of contemplation, as well as a companion for grilled tuna or fresh goat cheese.
98 Rebecca Murphy Aug 25, 2020

Domaine Tempier, Bandol AOC (Provence, France) Rosé 2022 ($65, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Domaine Tempier is known for producing benchmark Bandol wines. Bandol is known for their Mourvédre which benefits from the region’s sunny days to ripen fully. Domaine Tempier’s Rosé is about 50% Mourvédre, although the exact percentage changes each year and isn’t published by the winery. A wonderful orange blossom note ties in the flavor profile with red apple skin, strawberry, cream, and melon. Enjoying this wine, it is clear where the Bandol hype comes from. This is an outstanding, complex, and high-quality Rosé.
91 Vince Simmon Sep 5, 2023

Domaine du Bagnol, Cassis AOP (Provence, France) Rosé 2020 ($32, Rosenthal Wine Merchants):

I have never been to the town of Cassis in the southeastern area of the French region of Provence, but the pictures of the town with the brilliantly blue Mediterranean at its feet and a dramatic limestone cliff at its back is beckoning to me. In the meantime, I am vicariously enjoying the fruits of its bounty with this luscious Rosé from Domaine du Bagnol. It boasts an appealing rose pink color with orange notes, aromas of strawberries, cherries, and orange zest. The flavors of the mélange of fruits from Grenache’s juicy strawberry, Mourvedre’s savory, wild blackberry and Cinsault’s raspberry, black currant are taut, supported by bright and lively acidity. Savor it with grilled shrimp, or bouillabaisse.
93 Rebecca Murphy Jan 18, 2022

Chateau Gassier, Côte de Provence (Provence, France) “Esprit Gassier” Rosé 2018 ($19, Wilson Daniels):

This delicious and sophisticated rosé smells like a dreamy strawberry and peach shortcake (fresh fruits, cream, biscuits, a touch of spice). Made from 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault and 5% Rolle, the wine is perfectly dry, with a little nudge of acid and a good, firm finish. Chateau Gassier lies in Cézanne’s beautiful Mont Sainte Victoire landscape, and the Gassier family has been making wine here since the late 19th century.
92 Marguerite Thomas Jul 16, 2019

Bieler Pere & Fils, Coteaux Aix-en-Provence (France) “Sabine” Rosé 2016 ($12): I've seen this behind the bar at a variety of beverage purveyors, and I'm happy to be able to recommend such a widely available wine as the warm months wane. It's classic Provencal Rosé, with cherry, watermelon and lemon zest joined by a hint of white pepper. They all soar over the requisite lively acidity and finish in lip smackingly delicious fashion. As the sunsets change to match the color of this wine, ring a bell and drink up. Predominantly Grenache, with Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Rolle in the mix. It won Gold and the Best of Show Rosé at the 2017 Sommelier International Wine & Spirits Competition.
93 Rich Cook Oct 3, 2017

Jean-Luc Colombo, Coteaux d' Aix en Provence (Provence, France) "Rosé de Côte Bleue" 2004 ($12, Palm Bay): Juicy and packed with flavor, this leans to the sweeter, more obvious side of the rosé spectrum, with relatively low acidity but a finish that is sufficiently dry to permit successful pairing with foods bearing a bit of spice or charring from the grill. 86 Michael Franz Aug 7, 2005

Maison Saint Aix, Coteaux d’Aix En Provence (France) "Aix" Rosé 2020 ($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault “Aix” is a top-notch example of what excellent Rosé from this region should be. With straightforward fruit flavors leavened by gentle hints of cinnamon, cocoa and a refreshing burst of fresh lemon, the wine is both substantial and refreshing. The 130-year-old estate, one of the largest vineyards in the appellation, covers 185 acres, of which ten acres of vines are replanted every year. The property is ideally situated on a plateau1400 feet above the sea, where warm days and cool nights are the norm.
93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 23, 2021

Commanderie de la Bargemone, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence (France) Rosé 2017 ($15, Hand Picked Selections):

Like so many French wines that come from ancient estates, drinking Commanderie de la Bargemone is a little bit like drinking history itself. Founded by Templar Knights in the 13th century, the property is located in the southeast section of the country, west of Aix en Provence (for which the appellation is named). 82.5% of the region’s wines are rosé. Made from Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cinsault, plus small amounts of Rolle, Carignan and Counoise, this wine is distinctly dry and deliciously refreshing, with subtle floral nuances and suggestions of red berry fruit.
91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 14, 2018

Bieler Père et Fils, Coteaux d’Aix En Provence (France) “Sabine” Rosé 2021 ($14):

2021 Bieler Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé combines the bright fruit and easy drinkability we seek in a fine rosé. It is a juicy and lively harbinger of springtime. The color is a pale pink. The aromas burst with lovely scents of flowers, strawberry, cherry and savory herbs. On the palate, the juicy cherry and berry fruits give the wine a vibrant and invigorating character. The fruit, floral and herb flavors are intriguing and enticing and the Provençal herb nuances linger pleasantly at the finish. It’s a perfect springtime refresher.
90 Wayne Belding Apr 19, 2022

Bieler Père et Fils, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence (France) “Sabine” Rosé 2014 ($12): The 2014 Bieler Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé is a juicy and lively harbinger of springtime. The color is a pale pink. The aromas burst with lovely scents of strawberry, cherry, lavender and savory herbs. On the palate, the juicy cherry and berry fruits give the wine a vibrant and invigorating character. The fruit, floral and herb flavors are intriguing and enticing and the Provençal herb nuances linger pleasantly at the finish. It’s a perfect springtime refresher.
89 Wayne Belding Apr 7, 2015

Château Beaulieu, Côteaux d’Aix en Provence (France) 2013 ($12, Opici Wines):

This lacey, light salmon-colored wine could convince any skeptic of the charms of rosé. Dry with a hint of wild strawberries, the 2013 Château Beaulieu has an incredibly refreshing mouth-tingling crisp acidity. With a hint of spice and surprising -- for rosé -- complexity, it’s a great choice (and a great buy) for the waning days of summer.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 19, 2014

Whispering Angel, Côteaux d’Aix en Provence AOC (France) "The Beach" 2021 ($16, Moet Hennessy USA):

The Beach by Whispering Angel is not only a new wine by Chateau D’Esclans, it is a collaboration between the winery and the Surfrider Foundation. The mission of the Surfriders Foundation is to address issues of plastic pollution, ocean pollution, beach access for all, coastal preservation and clean water. The winery is committed to sustainable practices including lighter bottles, like the ones they bottled The Beach in. All marketing materials will be made from repurposed water bottles. The Beach is made from the same grapes as Whispering Angel, namely, Grenache, Cinsault, and Rolle (also known as Vermentino). It is a lively, easy drinking wine with ripe juicy fruit flavors of strawberry, raspberry and Meyer lemon, nicely balanced with bright acidity, perfect for a beach picnic.
89 Rebecca Murphy Nov 1, 2022

Bieler Père et Fils, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé (France) 2013 ($12, Skurnik): Springtime is the season for dry rosés. The 2013 Bieler bottling continues a string of successes for this label. The aromas fairly leap from the glass with lovely scents of strawberry, cherry, banana, wildflowers and savory herbs. On the palate, the juicy fruits are veritably explosive, giving the wine a vibrant and invigorating character. The berry, cherry, floral and herb flavors are intriguing and enticing -- this is springtime in a bottle. Enjoy it during the warm months ahead.
89 Wayne Belding May 6, 2014

Bieler Pere & Fils, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence (France) "Sabine" Rosé 2018 ($13):

Grenache is dominant in this fresh, crisp, clean rose from Provence, providing fruit lift on the palate and an inviting red-fruit nose. Pale in color, the Bieler ‘Sabine’ doesn’t disappoint in flavor. With excellent length on the palate and a lingering finish, it has more oomph than any number of more expensive rosé wines from the region.
90 Robert Whitley May 21, 2019

Chateau Pigoudet, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence (Provence, France) 2018 ($17, Oslo Enterprise):

Dry and racy, with a decidedly dry finish, this pretty pale pink rosé is a terrific wine to have on hand as summer eases into the fall season. More fruity than floral, this vintage is composed of 35% Grenache grapes, 35% Cinsault, 15% Cabernet, 10% Syrah and 5% Ugni grapes. The grapes have been sustainably farmed.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jul 30, 2019

Commanderie de la Bargemone, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence (Provence, France) Rosé 2010 ($18, Hand Picked Selections):

Probably the best rosé I've tasted this summer, this dry, supremely refreshing wine does not act like a wannabe red (as so many rosés do these days). Instead, it proudly struts its own stuff -- bright red berry fruit with a hint of citrus and an undertone that hints at lavender, rosemary, and other dried herbs. Delightfully long on the palate, it's proof that rosés need not take a backseat to allegedly more "serious" wines.
90 Paul Lukacs Jul 26, 2011

Bieler Père et Fils, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence (France) Rosé "Sabine 2015 ($13): Everything about this quintessential Provencal Rosé says "springtime!" A happy blend of rich wild strawberry, cherry, and pomegranate dance in the glass with savory sun-dried herbs. This crisp, refreshing blend of 40% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cinsault and 3% Rolle offers a supple roundness of texture on the finish. A definite palate pleaser for the months to come.
96 Jessica Dupuy Apr 12, 2016

Château Beauferan, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence (Provence, France) Blanc 2004 ($11, Grand Vintage): It is so refreshing to drink this Provence white, with its crispness, and its floral, lime, mineral notes. The perfect wine for warm weather, and a plate of grilled seafood. Great value! 90 Ed McCarthy May 2, 2006

Routas, Coteaux Varois (Provence, France) Rouviere Rosé 2004 ($10, Routas USA): Dry, crisp, medium-bodied for a rosé with slight CO2 prickle, refreshing depth and yet soft texture. Earthy, minerally and apple flavors are medium intense and have good length across the palate. Not a fruity rosé; very cleansing, refreshing, and top quality. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Aug 8, 2005

Domaine de Cala, Coteaux Varois en Provence (France) "Prestige" 2018 ($25):

This nearly colorless Rosé is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Rolle and Cinsault from the deep south of France. It’s given a few months to age in oak barrels to add structure and complexity. On the palate the wine shows a touch of richness but with fresh acidity and an inviting note of fresh strawberry. Beautifully balanced with a silky finish.
93 Robert Whitley Aug 6, 2019

Domaine de Cala, Coteaux Varois en Provence (France) "Classic" 2018 ($16):

Warning, the label does not say Rosé on the front and the color is only slightly tinged with an onion skin hew, so easily mistaken for a white wine. Make no mistake, the bulk of the blend is Grenache and Syrah. The result of the nearly colorless Rosé is a beautiful, crisp, refreshing summer wine that exhibits notes of strawberry and melon with mouth-watering acidity.
92 Robert Whitley Aug 6, 2019

L'escarelle, Coteaux Varois en Provence (France) Rosé “le Pacha” 2022 ($32, Banville Wine Merchants):

As rosé wines have risen rapidly in popularity in recent years, wine lovers have shown willingness to purchase renditions at ever higher prices to learn just how good “the good stuff” can be. This is especially true for fine renditions in Provence, whereas formerly only Bandol and maybe Tavel could attract buyers at prices at — or above — the $30 mark. Even at that level, what one often gets is a spectacularly inventive bottle holding a good but unremarkable wine. By contrast, in this case, what one gets is a nice enough bottle holding an impressive and delicious wine. It shows much better physical density and depth of flavor than the norm, but with no hint of over-ripeness that would take it out of balance to make it more impressive. It is unmistakably medium-bodied, and even leaning toward the upper end of that range, but still vibrant and full of fresh fruit flavors — but subtle ones, with red cherry and strawberry flavors rather than sugar driving the palate impression. If my score for this wine is off, I missed on the low side.
92 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2023

Chateau Routas, Coteaux Varois en Provence (France) 2013 ($14, Routas USA): A rosé that is light and amiable, Chateau Routas’ nimble offering makes a very appealing warm weather aperitif. It is perhaps too ethereal to stand up to highly seasoned dishes, but it can be an amiable and gracious partner for cool summer and autumnal salads or delicate seafood dishes as well as light pasta preparations such as linguine with clam sauce. Blended from Cinsault (45%), Grenache (35%) and Syrah (25%)
89 Marguerite Thomas Aug 26, 2014

Chateau Routas, Coteaux Varois en Provence (France) Rosé 2012 ($14, Routas USA): As charmingly delicate as a butterfly on the wing, this pale salmon pink wine is just the thing for those rosé lovers who complain that pink wines are often too sweet, too big, too--well, just too much of everything. This one has lovely fresh fruit aromas and it glides softly, gracefully across the palate whispering of strawberries and balsamic.
88 Marguerite Thomas Oct 1, 2013

Fleur de Mer, Cotes de Provence (France) Rosé 2018 ($20, E&J Gallo):

The sudden embrace of dry Rosé wine was long overdue. The charge was led by the beauties produced in the south of France, which is still the hymn book successful Rosé producers are singing from. The 2018 Fleur de Mer is the real thing and a shining example of exceptional Rosé from Provence. The 2018 is pale, almost onion skin in color, with crisp, mouth-watering acidity and luscious notes of peach, strawberry and watermelon. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
95 Robert Whitley Jun 18, 2019

Fleur de Mer, Cotes de Provence (France) Rosé 2017 ($20):

This dry rosé from Provence offers inviting aromas of strawberry and red currant, with a subtle but intriguing notes of dried herbs, what the locals often refer to as "garrigue." Crisp and refreshing, this is the quintessential summer sipper. There's a bit of the Mediterranean in every sip.
90 Robert Whitley Jun 19, 2018

Miraval, Cotes de Provence (France) Rosé 2014 ($30, Vineyard Brands):

Surprisingly light and delicate, this is a rosé for aperitif sipping more than for accompanying food. It tastes of ripe red berries with a hint of something steely in the finish. That last note, coupled with its bright acidity, keeps it fresh and vibrant from first sip to last.
90 Paul Lukacs Aug 11, 2015

Chateau d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (France) “Les Clans” Rosé 2020 ($79, Moët Hennessy):

The Les Clans Rosé successfully pushes the boundaries of what a Provençal Rosé should be. The journey starts from an opulent nose offering notes of peach, passion fruit, and vanilla yogurt. The body is equally complex with pineapples, bruised pears, and a creamy vanilla bean finish. D’Esclans is taking every opportunity to experiment and expand the quality and depth of flavors to produce this wine. For example, the wine is fermented in 600L French oak demi-muids, with individual temperature control for the fermentation in each barrel. This is an excellent wine that could easily go toe-to-toe with other non-Rosé wines in the same price range. It should not be overlooked.
97 Vince Simmon Jun 7, 2022

Château d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) "Les Clans" 2012 ($60, Shaw-Ross International Importers): Sacha Lichine, whose name is synonymous with Bordeaux, is the moving force behind this very high end property in Provence specializing in rosé. Since I am not usually enthralled by rosé, I am surprised by my

enthusiasm for this and his other wines. The wines marketed under the Château d’Esclans label come exclusively from estate grapes, while the one under the Caves d’Esclans label [also reviewed this week] combines estate with purchased fruit. Les Clans, a harmonious blend of primarily Grenache and Rolle, is deceptively pale pink and wonderfully aromatic. It has a real presence, with stone fruit flavors, much like a Rhône white wine, but with exceptional verve and vibrancy. It’s dry, long and very substantive, not your usual “quaffable” (and innocuous) rosé. This rosé makes you pause and contemplate. Lovely by itself, it has enough stuffing to match perfectly with grilled salmon.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2014

Chateau la Mascaronne, Côtes de Provence (France) Rosé 2020 ($24, International Wine Cellars):

A flavorful blend of 35% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 20% Syrah, 10% Vermentino, this deliciously dry Provençale rosé is well worth seeking out. An attractive pale salmon in color, with enticing aromas and balanced fruit-based flavors, it serves as a serious food wine as well as a refreshing aperitif. The limestone and clay soils in which the vines grow may explain the appealing hints of minerality the wine offers. From its hilltop position the vineyard (certified organic since 2016) benefits from comparatively cooler weather than many Provençale estates.
93 Marguerite Thomas Aug 24, 2021

Minuty, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) “Prestige” 2019 ($27, Vintus):

Readers of my recommendations recognize that I am not enthralled with most still rosé wines on the market, preferring to chill a light red. This one stopped me in my tracks. Its pale pink color suggested an innocuous wine. As the saying goes, don’t chose a book by its cover. Vibrant acidity amplifies the wild strawberry-like flavors that leap from the glass. It has real character, which distinguishes it from many other rosés on the market. This invigorating rosé will stand up to hearty salads you might be serving during quarantine.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 7, 2020

Peyrassol, Côtes de Provence (France) “Cuvee des Commandeurs” 2020 ($24, Wilson Daniels):

From an ancient estate comes this joyful blend of Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache with a touch of Mourvedre. It is a light golden pink with pure, juicy strawberry, red cherry flavors kissed with orange zest and a tiny hint of black pepper enhanced with crisp, citrusy acidity. It is delicious for sipping by the pool or with a light summer salad. The property was created by the Knights Templar in the 13th Century and the first grape harvest was recorded in 1226. Philippe Austruy, owner of Château Malescasse in the Haut-Médoc, Quinta da Côrte in the Douro and the Case Nuove in Tuscany, bought the property in 2001.
93 Rebecca Murphy Jul 6, 2021

Château d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé "Garrus" 2008 ($109, Shaw Ross): You read it correctly, over $100 a bottle for rosé. At Château d’Esclans, Sacha Lichine is aiming to take rosé to a new quality--and price--level. A blend of roughly 2/3rds Grenache, exclusively from 80-year-old vines, and Rolle from similarly aged vines, the Garrus is a selection from the very best vineyards on the estate. The winemaking is Burgundian: grapes are harvested by hand, de-stemmed and sorted twice. Free run juice is vinified to dryness and aged in temperature controlled 500-liter casks for 8 months, where it undergoes bâtonage (stirring of the lees). The result is a lively wine with an impeccable balance of wild red fruit-like flavors, nuances of spice, bright acidity and a subtle, but enveloping creaminess. The wine’s elegance--it’s definitely not a hit-in the-face kind of wine--is most apparent in the lengthy finish. Just when you think it’s gone, another wave of flavors wash over your palate. Is it worth 100 bucks? Only you and your banker know for sure. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2010

Château De Pourcieux, Côtes De Provence (France) 2021 ($17, Baron François Imports): I

f, like me, you prefer your Rosé dry rather than sweet, be sure to check out Château de Pourcieux. Pale pink in color highlighted by a subtle orange tint, and with citrus and peach among the fruit flavors, this wine is deliciously fragrant and fresh. It is one of those rare rosés that is truly crisp and dry and is therefore perfect for warm-weather dining (I enjoyed it recently with a Salade Niçoise). Porcieux's vineyard is free of chemical fertilizers and herbicides. Château de Pourcieux has been owned by the same family since it was founded in 1716 in Pourcieux, a small Provençale village.
92 Marguerite Thomas Aug 9, 2022

Château La Gordonne, Côtes de Provence (France) “La Chapelle Gordonne, Tete de Cuvée” Rosé 2021 ($35, Vranken Pommery America):

Château La Gordonne was established in Provence in 1662. In 2005 it became part of the Vranken Pommery Monopole, with prestigious producers in Champagne, Portugal, England and the U.S.. The Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvedre grapes for this Rosé were hand harvested at night to maintain the fresh flavors of wild strawberries, raspberry, pink grapefruit with notes of woody Mediterranean herbs. It is fresh and lively in the mouth with flavors of berries and peaches laced with delicate herbal notes. We have been blessed with a bonanza of tomatoes from our garden this summer and found that a caprese salad or a bowl of gazpacho worked really well with this wine.
92 Rebecca Murphy Jun 20, 2023

Château Roubine, Côtes de Provence (France) “La Rosé” 2018 ($30):

If you ask me, no Thanksgiving is complete without a good rosé on hand. And if you're looking for a quintessential rosé selection, you can't go wrong with the Château Roubine La Rosé. This estate is one of only 14 Cru Classé in the region of Provence, spanning more than 200 hectares, 90 of which are planted with 13 different organically farmed varieties. This wine is generous with notes of ripe strawberries, raspberries, and whispers of thyme. With a medium body, this lovely rosé offers vibrancy from start to finish. It doesn't hurt that the beautiful floral screen-print design on the bottle makes it an elegant accent for the table.
92 Jessica Dupuy Nov 17, 2020

Caves d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (France) “Whispering Angel” 2013 ($20): This rosé combines the seriousness of real wine with the charm and seduction of rosé. Delicate and fragrant strawberry-like notes dance across the palate. Without a hint of sweetness, it’s positively fresh, invigorating, and long, all at the same time. Maybe I’m swayed by the long New England winter, but Whispering Angel is truly bottled springtime. Bring on a hearty salade Niçoise.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2014

Cercle des Vignerons de Provence, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé L'Estandon 2005 ($13, Diageo Château & Estates): L'Estandon Rosé is one of the best-known and best-distributed Provence rosés. Produced from a cooperative of 150 growers, it is typically reliable, year after year. The 2005, made from a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, is a winner. It is fresh and crisp, a virtual panoply of berry fruit aromas and flavors. 91 Ed McCarthy May 2, 2006

Château La Gordonne, Côtes de Provence (France) “Tête de Cuvée” Rosé 2019 ($17):

Fresh and fragrant, this fine rosé is adaptable to a range of different occasions, from pre-dinner aperitifs to light pasta dishes and seafood. I enjoyed it on two recent occasions, the first as an accompaniment to a cream-based orzo soup, the other with a sweet, but not too sweet, cranberry-raisin cake. The wine’s dominant fruity flavors tend towards red berries, especially raspberries, and its crisp finish keeps it nicely balanced.
91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 20, 2020

Chateau Montaud, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé 2020 ($15, Monsieur Touton Selection):

This is a powerfully aromatic rosé that offers a galaxy of flavors including strawberries and cherries. Fruity without being sweet, the wine has a refreshing, acid driven finish. About 80 percent of the wines included in the Côtes de Provence appellation (the largest appellation in Provence) are rosé. In addition to Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cincsault, Côtes de Provence wines may also include Tibouren, a Provençale grape variety.
91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 3, 2021

Fleur de Mer, Côtes de Provence (France) Rosé 2018 ($20, E&J Gallo):

Fleur de Mer is a Gallo-owned wine produced in Provence at Saint-Roch-les-Vignes, a large wine cooperative in Cuers which includes about 1850 acres of vineyard land. Fleur is a deliciously typical Provençale rosé in appearance (pale pinky-orange) and taste (delicately fruity with a dry, faintly minerally finish). It is a blend of 46% Grenache, 21% Cinsault, 15% Syrah and 11% Carignan. Drink as much of it as you can during the remaining warm summer and autumn months, and then drink more of it when the weather turns cold to remind yourself how splendid rosé can be.
91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 6, 2019

Wolffer Estate, Côtes de Provence (France) “Summer in a Bottle” Rosé 2021 ($25):

This lush, crisp, and dry Rosé pairs perfectly with summer – it's right in the name. This pale pink Rosé bursts with delightful aromas and flavors of rosewater, cherry, peach, and tangerine. A bit of playful acidity and minerality keeps this bright and inviting- the perfect summer sipper. The blend is comprised of Grenache 49%, Cinsault 23.5%, Syrah 18% and Vermentino (Rolle) 9.5%. As a bonus, the bottle is pretty enough to save as a vase or hold dressing.
91 Miranda Franco Apr 19, 2022

Château d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé "Whispering Angel" 2009 ($21, Shaw Ross): Sacha Lichine, son of renowned Alexis Lichine, the larger than life

wine-merchant, author and Bordeaux château owner, has forsaken the family’s traditional home base (Bordeaux) for sunny Provence where he aims to make the best rosé in the world at Château d’Esclans. The Whispering Angel, a remarkably sophisticated “entry” level wine, is a blend of mostly Grenache and Rolle, with small amounts of Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre. Fermentation is performed entirely in stainless steel vats to preserve the inherent red fruit flavors of the grapes. He performs a temperature-controlled bâtonage (stirring of the lees), which helps impart an unusual--and welcome--intensity while preserving freshness. Persistent, yet delicate, wild strawberry and other red fruit-like flavors harmonize with a zippy freshness. Most amazingly, the wine holds its own even after tasting his more expensive rosés. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2010

Château du Galoupet, Côtes de Provence (France) 2013 ($18): This dry, vibrant rosé, a blend of the usual Mediterranean grapes, Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, delivers a delicate fruitiness on a firm frame. Invigorating grapefruit-like acidity keeps it fresh and a perfect foil for a hearty springtime salad.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2014

Domaine du Dragon, Côtes de Provence (France) “Grande Cuvée” 2022 ($18, North Berkeley Imports):

Sunday brunches are just around the corner and what better to pair with an outdoor seating amongst friends than a Provence Rosé. Domaine du Dragon is a classic example with good acidity, slight saline mouthfeel, and fresh strawberry and melon profile. This Rosé is versatile enough to pair with a wide array of foods and it appeals to a wide, brunch-enjoying audience. The blend is 32% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 13% Syrah, 13% Mourvedre and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon.
90 Vince Simmon Apr 2, 2024

Domaine Houchart, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé 2006 ($11, David Milligan Selections): This blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon,

Mourvedre and a few other varieties has a lively pink color. The aroma is layered with fresh strawberry that follows through to the flavors. It is dry, yet with ample fruit sweetness and a long, juicy finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 11, 2007

Le Charmel, Côtes de Provence (France) 2018 ($15):

This rosé comes to us from an estate near Bandol, a Provençale wine producing community perched on the Mediterranean in southeastern France. A blend of Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Rolle, this fine release from Le Charmel was fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks. Pinkish-orange in color, it is pleasantly dry, with fruity aromas and flavors suggesting pears and strawberries.
90 Marguerite Thomas May 5, 2020

Maison Belle Claire, Côtes de Provence (France) 2015 ($18, Romano Brands Fine wines): Regular readers of WineReviewOnline.com know I’m not a great fan of rosé -- except when it has bubbles -- often preferring a chilled light red wine instead. But Maison Belle Claire’s 2015 caught my attention because it delivers more complexity than most rosé. It may be the blend -- roughly equal parts Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault -- that imparts complexity and makes it come across like a light red wine. Whatever it is, here is a rosé with substance and the invigorating acidity that keeps it bright and fresh. It’s a perfect choice for the classic salad Niçoise this summer.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2016

MiMi en Provence, Côtes de Provence (France) Grande Reserve Rosé 2017 ($13, Monsieur Touton Selections):

This crisp, dry rosé is as easy on the taste buds as it is on the wallet. Crafted from Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, it is pale pink in color, and light on the palate, with suggestions of red fruits, especially strawberries. It’s an excellent wine to serve with seafood, from shellfish to grilled swordfish.
90 Marguerite Thomas Nov 6, 2018

Château la Tour de l’Evéque, Côtes de Provence (France) "Pétale de Rose" 2014 ($18, Ruby Wines (MA)): This is a lovely Provençal rosé with a surprisingly rich texture that makes it a fine companion for a wide range of summer fare. It has a pale salmon color and a bouquet that shows ripe fruit, subtle herbs and delicate floral nuances. Made from a blend of eight grapes, its complexity is most evident on the palate. It has a generous, soft and creamy style, with strawberry and cherry flavors enhanced by the layers of floral and herbal elements. Its ample texture makes it a totally satisfying yet still refreshing rosé. Blended from Cinsault (42%) Grenache (38%) Syrah (9%) Ugni Blanc (4%) Mourvèdre (3%) Sémillon (2%) Cabernet Sauvignon (1%) and Rolle (1%).
89 Wayne Belding Sep 1, 2015

Chateau Montaud, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé 2006 ($12, Monsieur Touton Selections): Vignoble Francois Ravel pulled together Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan and Tibouren, a favorite among Provencais winemakers for its earthy flavors. The color is a lovely peachy-orange and it showed scents of ripe melons, citrus and ripe strawberries. The flavors are light and fruity with brisk acidity. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 11, 2007

Domaine Saint André de Figuière, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé Cuvée Magali 2005 ($12, Frank Johnson Selections): What a charming rosé! It is fresh, light, crisp, and totally dry, but with enough flavor to hold up to grilled vegetables or seafood. Made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cinsault, and Grenache. 89 Ed McCarthy May 2, 2006

Domaines de Bertaud-Bélieu, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé Prestige 2005 ($16, Bertaud-Bélieu USA): The vineyards are located on the Saint-Tropez peninsula, and so a visit here, including a stop at world-famous Saint-Tropez beaches, might be well worthwhile! The 2005 Domaines de Bertaud-Bélieu Prestige Rosé, with raspberry aromas and flavors, is medium-bodied and quite delicious, although a tad sweet. 89 Ed McCarthy May 2, 2006

Saint Roch les Vignes, Côtes de Provence (France) 2020 ($18, Regal Wine Imports):

This is a delicious Provençal rosé with a rich texture that makes it a fine companion for a wide range of warm-weather fare. It has a pale salmon color and a bouquet that shows ripe fruit, subtle herbs and delicate floral nuances. Blended from Grenache and Cinsault, its complexity is most evident on the palate. It has a generous, soft and creamy style, with strawberry and cherry flavors enhanced by the layers of floral and herbal elements. Its ample texture makes it a totally satisfying yet still refreshing rosé.
89 Wayne Belding Aug 24, 2021

Chateau de Pourcieux, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé 2006 ($11, Baron Francois, Ltd.): The blend of this pink wine is dominated by Syrah, with 20% each of Cinsault and Grenache. Cinsault gives the wine a medium pink-salmon color, while Syrah and Grenache impart a bright rich berry aroma and flavor. It finishes dry and with good length. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 11, 2007

Domaine Sainte Marie, Côtes de Provence (France) “VieVité” 2017 ($19, Turquoise Life):

VieVité uses a rectangular-shaped bottle to distinguish it from a the even increasing array of other pink wines that line retailers’ shelves. A blend of equal parts of the usual Mediterranean grapes, Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah with Carignan accounting for the remaining 10 percent, this pale pink wine delivers delicate, yet persistent notes of strawberries buttressed by enlivening freshness.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2018

L’Estandon, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé 2006 ($10, Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines):

Grenache is the major component of this rosé, with Cinsault and Syrah making up the blend. The inviting color is a light salmon, with light fruity aromas and flavors, but nothing distinctive. It's dry and fruity but with a simple finish. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 11, 2007

Fleur de Mer, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé 2006 ($10, House of Fine Wines): Nothing is known about the varieties in this wine. I thought it pleasant but simple, with medium berry flavors and texture and a touch of bitterness in the finish. 85 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 11, 2007

Domaine du Clos d’Alari, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé 2006 ($20, AOC Fine Wines): A light and austere blend of Cinsault, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Rolle, a southern France white variety that is often teamed with Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne. Rolle is thought to be identical to Italy's Vermentino. The wine has a pale pink color, shy nose of berry and spice. It is dry, light on fruit and short in the finish. 84 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 11, 2007

Fleurs de Prairie, Cotes de Provence AOC (France) Rosé 2019 ($20):

Rosé continues to rule the wine market landscape thanks to crisp and tasty examples that are widely distributed and available at reasonable prices. This bottling hits all of those markers and then some, delivering dry French style with strawberry, citrus and mild herbs and pepper notes that cross from aroma to flavor effortlessly. It’s a fine Indian Summer sipper that will take away the dog days blues.
90 Rich Cook Sep 8, 2020

Whispering Angel, Côtes de Provence AOC (France) Rosé 2021 ($23, Moet Hennessy USA):

I remember the days when people would look askance when I bought a Rosé at my local wine store. Thank goodness those days are over. Certainly, Sacha Lichine’s Whispering Angel played a role in sparking today’s Rosé wine scene with choices from around the world being consumed all year long. Lichine acquired Chateau D’Esclans in 2006 with a stated intention to make the world’s most expensive Rosé, which he named Garrus. However, it was Whispering Angel that caught people’s attention. It is still as good as it was when it was first released. Pretty in pale pink it is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Vermentino (which is called Rolle in Provence). Grenache’s strawberry fruit shines in the aromas and flavors, Cinsault brings raspberries and floral notes while Vermentino provides citrus and saline notes. These flavors come together seamlessly enlivened by crisp acidity.
93 Rebecca Murphy Nov 1, 2022

Mirabeau, Côtes de Provence AOC (France) "Classic" 2021 ($19, Massanois):

Many people may have the dream of moving to France to make wine, but Stephen and Jeany Cronk did it. They moved with their children from London to Provence in 2009. Although they had no experience in winemaking, Steve had previously owned a small wine import company, so he had an understanding of the business of wine in France. They worked as negociants, buying wine from producers and working with British Master of Wine Angela Muir to create this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault to create their first wine, “Classic.” It was such a success they now have several Rosé wines, as well as a gin. In their tenth year, they invested in a property where they are growing their grapes with advice from Oregon winemaker and advocate for regenerative agriculture, Mimi Casteel. The 2021 Classic is a delight with its shimmering pale pink color and juicy, strawberry, raspberry, stone fruit flavors. It is fresh, dry and crisp, perfect as a warm weather aperitif, or at the table with Ratatouille.
92 Rebecca Murphy Aug 9, 2022

Chateau Minuty, Côtes de Provence AOC (France) “Prestige” Rosé 2019 ($30, Vintus):

For a dependable summer go-to, look no further than this Provencal rosé that will transport you to a French vacation. This pale pink rosé (almost white in color) is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Tibouren. Primarily using Grenache, this wine is generously packed with strawberry, pomegranate, red currant, and a hint of pepper. The acidity is beautifully integrated into the fruits and rounded texture. The finish is impressively structured and lengthy.
91 Miranda Franco May 25, 2021

La Bernarde, Côtes de Provence AOC (France) “Les Hauts du Luc” 2019 ($18, Skurnik Wines and Spirits):

Rosé doesn’t have to be for the summer season alone. It can work equally well with the pandemic summer we’re all conjuring in our minds right now. Here’s a winner. It's a Provençal example that hits every marker – strawberry, white pepper, crisp citrus, stony minerality and dry style that keeps your mouth watering for the next sip or bite of food. I’ll toss in a pairing possibility: try this with a creamy hot soup while you’re dreaming of warmer weather and you may find that you have a new winter partner as well.
90 Rich Cook Feb 23, 2021

Le Domaine de Cantarelle, Côtes de Provence AOC (France) “Madam” Rosé 2019 ($16):

The wine’s pretty, somewhat feminine packaging and translucent tangerine/apricot colors should lure plenty of consumers in, and the follow-through of sun drenched fruit flavors are likewise notable. This light, dry rosé offers a hint of cinnamon and other spice. One thing the grapes in this Provençale region don’t have to fear is humidity as Mistral winds blow regularly across the countryside wicking up dampness. The Cantarelle estate is situated next to the Parc National du Verdon, a wonderfully wild state park featuring hiking trails and stunning views.
90 Marguerite Thomas May 25, 2021

Peyrassol, Cotes de Provence AOP (France) “Cuvee de la Commanderie” Rosé 2019 ($19):

Peyrassol's “Cuvee de la Commanderie” is classic Rosé from Provence, with its pale, somewhat onion-skin appearance. On the palate the wine delivers a brilliant show of strawberry aroma, supported by fresh acidity and with a long, impressive finish. It’s sure to make you long for the beach and a warm summer day.
90 Robert Whitley Apr 28, 2020

Fleur de Mer, Côtes de Provence AOP (France) Rosé 2019 ($20, E&J Gallo):

This wine from Fleur de Mer is a prime example of precisely why Provence has set the standard for Rosé -- direct, balanced, and cleanly fruity. What more could you want in a pink wine? A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
94 Mike Dunne Jul 7, 2020

Château Peyrassol, Côtes de Provence AOP (France) Rosé 2021 ($24, Wilson Daniels):

This is a seven varietal mix led by Cinsault (50%) and Grenache (25%) with a touch of Ugni Blanc. Despite the challenges of the vintage from early frost, mid-season nearby fires and late season hail, it is Provence Rosé at its straightforward, uncomplicated best with lively strawberry and white peach aromas. The bright and juicy theme continues into the flavors which emphasize citrus and peach but are conveyed through a pleasing smooth texture. But it is the refreshing acidity that makes you want a second glass.
90 Norm Roby Jun 21, 2022

Clos Cibonne, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé (Provence, France) Tibouren “Cuvée Spéciale des Vignettes” Rosé 2016 ($60, De Maison Selections):

Clos Cibonne has been making a Rosé since 1797 in a unique and somewhat unusual style – aged in huge 100-year-old oak vats under a local yeast called "fleurette," similar to Sherry. The 2016 Cuvée Speciale des Vignettes Tibouren, a native and almost extinct Provence varietal, is weightier and more complex than most Rosés. It shows a lovely salmon hue in the glass, and is redolent of blood orange, thyme, and ginger. It is a rich, plushly textured Rosé that exudes clementines, fresh herbs, almonds, and baking spices on the palate. It is backed with brisk acidity and minerality that carries onto the lingering finish. This makes for one of the most remarkable Provencal wines around.
94 Miranda Franco May 30, 2023

Hecht & Bannier, Côtes de Provence Rosé (Provence, France) 2012 ($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): The foil disc on top hides the closure so it’s not quite clear whether you need a corkscrew. You don’t. Once you remove the plastic neck label, which takes the foil disc with it, an easy-to-remove glass stopper twists off. What’s in the bottle is more than worth the confusion involved in getting to its contents. This refreshing rosé has real character. A zippy spiciness harmonizes with wild strawberries-like nuances. It would be a good match for causal summer time fare such as a salad Niçoise.
88 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2013

Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) Clos de Capelune 2014 ($60):

It’s not the blend that explains the quality and uniqueness of the Clos de Capelune rosé from Château Saint-Maur, since it has a similar varietal make-up to the “L’Excellence” bottling -- both are a blend of mostly red grapes (Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre) with a touch of Rolle. Rather, the explanation lies in the fact that, for the Clos de Capelune, the grapes come from a 30-acre plot located at a higher elevation -- 1,600 feet. It must be the location that explains the wine’s finesse. Yes, it’s broader and longer, but not really more powerful. The wine’s texture is what is really captivating. As good as Château Saint-Maur’s two other bottlings are, the Clos de Capelune just has more stature and refinement. 93 Michael Apstein May 5, 2015

Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) “L’Excellence” 2014 ($45): “L’Excellence,” the mid-range rosé from Château Saint-Maur, is broader and more refined than their “entry” level wine, “M.” As enjoyable and satisfying as M is, L’Excellence is a clear step up. Zesty acidity, characteristic of all their wines, imbues this rosé with life and gives it a real presence. A faint bitterness in the finish adds allure and reminds you this is real wine and in an entirely different category from most rosé.
92 Michael Apstein May 5, 2015

Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) "M" 2014 ($25): Much like the Médoc and other parts of Bordeaux, the French, in 1955, established an official classification of the estates of Provence, awarding 14 properties, including Château Saint-Maur, Cru Classé status. Judging from their lineup of 2014s, they deserve the accolade. Château Saint-Maur, located not far from St. Tropez, has three bottlings of rosé. This one, made from equal parts of Grenache, Tibouren, Cinsault and Syrah, is full-bodied and redolent of wild strawberries. A palate tingling vibrancy keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. Salad Niçoise on the terrace, anyone?
88 Michael Apstein May 5, 2015

Chateau d’Estoublon, Les Baux de Provence (France) Rosé 2018 ($18):

Even those who claim not to like rosé will probably make an exception in this case of this delicious Provençale blend (45% Grenache, 45% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah). Delicately pale pink, with light floral and red fruit aromas, the wine’s full flavors are backed up by light touches of saline minerality as well as thirst-quenching acidity. Fermented 90% in stainless steel and 10% in barrel, this is truly an exceptional rosé.
94 Marguerite Thomas Jun 25, 2019

Domaine Terres Blanches, Les Baux de Provence (Provence, France) 2006 ($17, Beaune Imports): Raspberry-scented fruit with a peppery undertone give this rosé not only charm but also genuine complexity. My colleague Michael Apstein may be right in suggesting that a wine like this lacks the compelling complexity of a great red. But on a sultry summer day, it's hard to imagine anything tasting better. 90 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence AOP (Provence, France) 2021 ($28, Dionysos Imports):

Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence Rosé is shockingly different and delicious. After a classic Provence Rosé bouquet, the flavors provide a suggestion of a whipped strawberry buttercream cake with orange blossom and melon accents. There are a lot of flavors to explore in each sip. Mas de Gourgonnier makes this wine organically, and does so well ahead of the appellation’s organic requirement, which takes effect this year, 2023. While this may not be your easy-drinking Provence Rosé, the complexity and nuance make this wine a truly enjoyable treat.
90 Vince Simmon Aug 29, 2023

Prieure de Montezargues, Tavel (France) 2007 ($19, Henriot): Tavel, a lovely village in the south of France, is one of the few places in the world that makes only rosé. Not a by-product of a process to beef-up a red wine, this serious rosé has more substance than most. A mouth-coating texture and a ghost of tannins complement the usual array of bright red fruit—strawberry and raspberry—flavors in this dry, zippy wine. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009

Routas, Varois en Provence (Provence, France) “Rouviere” Rosé 2006 ($12, Routas USA): With summer's long days stretching ahead, it's time to lay in a case of refreshing, affordable, food friendly rosé--the ideal warm-weather beverage. This Routas meets the criteria. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, it has bright and lively raspberry and strawberry flavors and a clean finish. It does have an edge of sweetness, but that becomes a virtue when it meets up with the char on grilled foods, and it also meshes nicely with salty/briny summery fare such as Greek Salad (or just about anything with olives). 89 Marguerite Thomas Jun 12, 2007

Sacha Lichine, Vin de Pays de Var (Provence, France) "The Pale" Rosé 2022 ($15, Shaw-Ross International Importers):

I’m a great fan of Lichine’s pricier rosés from Château d’Esclans in Provence, but there is a risk in calling a pink wine “The Pale” because of associating it with the phrase “beyond the pale,” or something not quite “all there.” Elegant, true, as well as bone dry, the wine is very light in body, leading to the expectation that there will be delicate but distinct fruit flavors in the finish. Unfortunately, the flavors are too light to give much pleasure. At its best, The Pale has flashes of stony minerality and light tannins, perhaps in keeping with an almost-dry January.
88 Roger Morris Jan 9, 2024

Domaine de Triennes, Vin de Pays du Var (Provence, France) Rosé 2008 ($16, The Sorting Table): Readers of this website know that I am not a fan of rosé (except for Rosé Champagne, of course) because it's usually a byproduct of a technique-bleeding--to strengthen a red wine. Less commonly, some producers--such as those in Tavel in southern France--actually aim to produce rosé. Domaine de Triennes, a joint venture of two Burgundians, Aubert de Villaine, who manages Domaine Romanée Conti and Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac, is another producer who sets out to make a rosé. And they make an excellent one. A blend of Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah, it delivers a lovely combination of dried red fruit, spice and alluring floral elements. This fresh and vibrant wine is a wonderful way to welcome spring. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2009

Domaine Tempier, Bandol Blanc (Provence, France) 2020 ($58, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Domaine Tempier is world famous for its beautiful rosé, but they do produce red and white wines. This fresh and tasty white is a mélange of 60 percent Clairette, 19 percent Ugni Blanc, 18 percent Bourboulenc and three percent Marsanne. It displays alight yellow color with enticing floral, citrus, pear aromas with saline notes. It is light bodied, yet round and juicy in the mouth with ripe pear, pineapple and lemon drop flavors balanced with bright, crisp acidity. It is easy to drink as an aperitif and will pair well with avocado with shrimp and Remoulade sauce or tuna grilled with Meyer lemon. Domaine Tempier has a long history dating from mid-1700s. The first winery building was built in 1834. Unfortunately, phylloxera, a root louse that was introduced to Europe from native American grapes, decimated the vineyards of Europe. In 1880 the Tempier family replanted their vineyard with vines grafted onto native American root stock, the only solution to phylloxera.
95 Rebecca Murphy Apr 26, 2022

Domaine du Gros’Noré, Bandol Blanc (Provence, France) 2009 ($30, Kermit Lynch): Bandol, a small appellation bordering the Mediterranean, is well known for

its sturdy Mourvedre-based red wines. But growers also make a tiny amount of white wine from the usual Mediterranean varieties, Bourboulenc, Clairette, and Ugni Blanc, as well as Sauvignon Blanc. This one, a classy blend of Clairette and Ugni Blanc, delivers subtle peach flavors floating atop a mouth-coating lanolin-like texture. Unlike many southern French whites, it’s fresh and lively. The combination--richness and vibrancy--makes it a good choice for well-seasoned seafood. 91 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012

Château Beaulieu, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence (Provence, France) Blanc 2005 ($15, Regal Wines): The 2005 Château Beaulieu Blanc is a crisp, medium-bodied, rich white wine, with aromas and flavors of grapefruit and a hint of pineapple. It's a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Ugni Blanc, and Rolle (Vermentino). Substantial enough to stand up to a full-flavored fish entrée. 91 Ed McCarthy May 2, 2006

Chateau Miraval, Coteaux Varois en Provence (Provence, France) “Clara Lua” 2008 ($20, Casa Bruno LLC): Made with Rolle, a southern French grape that some researchers believe to be the same as Italy’s Vermentino, this is a fleshy, medium-bodied, and impressively aromatic wine, with full fruit flavor and nutty undertones. Compellingly multi-layered and complex, it also tastes bright and refreshing -- a beguiling combination. 90 Paul Lukacs Jul 27, 2010

Domaine des Terres Blanches, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2016 ($15):

Les Baux de Provence, a small appellation in Provence that is entirely organic, is an outlier because it is known best for its red wines. That said, it’s home to some satisfying whites, such as this one. A blend primarily of Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino), it delivers crisp freshness and vivacity. It’s an ideal choice for a sticky summer evening.
88 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018

Domaine de Durban, Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012 ($19, Kermit Lynch):

The reputation of Beaumes-de-Venise hails from it sweet wines. But the red wines from Beaumes-de-Venise were recently promoted to “cru” status, much like neighboring Gigondas. Domaine de Durban, one of the leading producers of sweet Beaumes-de-Venise, shows itself to be equally adept with the red wine. A blend of mostly (60%) Grenache, Syrah (25%) and Mourvèdre round out the blend. It’s a sturdy red, full of mineral-like flavors, a hint of tar and herbs that complement deep black fruit flavors. It’s a wintertime wine to accompany a hearty leg of lamb.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2014

Jaboulet, Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Paradou” 2005 ($22, Wildman): Jaboulet, one of the premier producers in the Rhône, makes noteworthy wines from a multiple of areas within the region. Beaumes-de-Venise, a small village traditionally known more for its sweet wines than for its robust reds, had been lumped with other villages that comprised Côtes du Rhône for its red wines. In 2005, officials recognized the potential of the village to produce distinctive red wines and its status was upgraded so now it stands with other appellations, such as Vacqueryas, Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, at the pinnacle of places for Rhône reds. Jaboulet has infused this blend of Grenache and Syrah with uncommon grace and depth to match its spice and power. A wonderfully warming winter wine, you can enjoy it now and since it's still priced like a Côtes du Rhone, it's a great buy. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

Domaine de Durban, Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) 2021 ($27, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Nestled between Vacqueyras and Gigondas, two formidable Southern Rhône appellations, Beaumes-de-Venise is home to classic Rhône red wines. Domaine de Durban’s Beaumes-de-Venise is Grenache driven and shows earthy red fruit notes of wild strawberry and wild raspberry that support wet clay, dried black blossom and lavender. The blend is 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 5% Mourvèdre. The wine's importer, Kermit Lynch, focuses some of his most energetic efforts on the Rhône region and has relationships with the region’s top producers, including co-ownership of at least two wineries in the region. When looking for a Southern Rhône wine, his selection is a great place to start.
89 Vince Simmon Jun 13, 2023

Domaine Fenouillet, Beaumes-de-Venise Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Terres Blanches” 2011 ($20, Rosenthal Wine Merchant):

The village of Beaumes-de-Venise in the southern Rhône Valley is best known for its fortified dessert wine from Muscat grapes. This wine (made from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) should make the red more famous. It is big and bold but balanced. Lovely aromas of cooked strawberries, cherries and plums are enhanced by notes of leather, smoke, lavender and black pepper. The flavors are rich and ripe with the baked strawberry and cherry fruits underlain by nuances of dried herbs, potpourri and black pepper spice. The herb and spice elements linger nicely at the finish. A hearty wine like this calls for similarly hearty foods to match. Save some for the autumnal nights ahead.
92 Wayne Belding Oct 7, 2014

Xavier Vignon, Beaumes-de-Venise Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Etoile” NV ($36, Fleet Street Wine Merchnts ): Rhône Valley wines have been incredibly popular in the U.S. in recent years. Regions like Gigondas and Vacqueyras are more recognizable today than ever before. Beaumes-de-Venise, tucked up in the mountains above Gigondas and Vacqueyras, was known for their sweeter wines in years past, but has started making dry red wines, earning Cru status almost a decade ago. Xavier Vignon’s L’Etoile is a powerhouse example with noticeable tannins and powerful fruit. Despite being 70% Grenache, extended maceration times help extract both flavors and mouthfeel. Xavier Vignon then ages the wine for 15 months in 30% new French and Austrian oak barrels before blending the vintages to make the best possible wine. The nose is rich with a subtle garrigue earthiness that includes pine nuts and red fruit. The body’s structure and aging already shows both fresh and drying fruit, which makes sense given that this is a high-quality wine but not vintage-dated. Its power suits it to serving with food — I recommend steak.
89 Vince Simmon Aug 8, 2023

Les Chemins de Sève, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) “Apanage” 2014 ($20):

This is a brand new domaine, and 2014 was the first vintage. Vines were planted last year, so this wine was made from fruit grown by neighbors. It is difficult to imagine how a new vintner (an industrial engineer until 2011 before beginning wine studies) could get a quicker or more impressive start. This is exceptionally pure, with very dense, dark toned fruit with intriguing savory undertones. Giant but still graceful, this is terrific. A star on the rise.
94 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine Alary, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) “La Brunote” 2014 ($17):

This exceedingly impressive wine seems to be sold predominantly in the Netherlands, and I’m actually tempted to make the trip for that reason, as it sells for less than $17 but tastes like $45. The color is very deep, with notes of both red and black fruits, though it is really more savory than fruity in general profile (though this earthiness never shades over into a dirty or “animal” character). Damn.
93 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine Boisson, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Exigence” 2015 ($30):

Very dark and ripe, this is a kick-down-the-door wine, rather than a reticent charmer. The fruit is very open and expressive, and if there were not a bit of alcoholic heat showing in the finish, it would have earned an even higher score. Some of this is being sold in the 2010 and 2012 vintages at various locations in the USA, so we can hope that the 2015 will also appear on our shores.
93 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Cave de Cairanne / Camille Cayran, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reserve” 2015 ($13):

Judging from this wine, the individuals at this village co-op who are selecting fruit and working in the cellar are conspicuously talented for an establishment of this type. The fruit shows terrific purity and texture that is soft but not unfocused, with savory undertones accenting the flavors, which seem Grenache-dominant. Multiple retailers in France, Germany and Denmark are selling this for the Euro equivalent of less than $10, and you can buy it in Paris -- in magnum -- for less than $17. Vintners in California had better be glad that they’re insulated from competition at this level by both a continent and an ocean.
92 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine Berthet-Rayne, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) Castel Mireio Vieilli 2014 ($30):

This special bottling (as opposed to the straight Vieilles Vignes or “old vines") shows a lot of ripeness but just the faintest hint of raisining. However, there is a powerful undertow of meaty, savory notes that keeps this from seeming over-ripe or obvious. There’s no telling how long it will last, and I doubt it will improve from additional ageing, but it is pretty damned exciting right now.
92 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine Brusset , Cairanne (Rhône Valley ) “Les Chabriles” 2015 ($23): This isn’t as big a wine as this excellent producer’s Gigondas bottlings, but there’s no doubt that it is still very good, with more reddish fruit tones and a brighter character that will enable this to work well with many different foods. 92 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine Brusset, Cairanne (Southern Rhône Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2019 ($22, Saranty Imports):

I’ve tasted wines from this house over many years, but only see them recently on a hit-or-miss basis. I grabbed this on the fly from a high-end grocery in the Puget Sound area, and it was both utterly delicious and also conclusive proof that the commune of Cairanne was absolutely deserving of the AOC status it was elevated to several years ago from the Côtes-du-Rhône Villages status at which the name of the village is tacked on. Impressively concentrated and packed with flavor, this is still so expressively fruity that it never comes off as heavy. And there’s more: Despite all that black and red fruit flavor, there’s also an undercurrent of emerging savory characters that lend the slightest suggestion of rusticity, which is entirely welcome and keeps this from coming off as a simple Grenache-based fruit bomb. Compellingly delicious, and though few bottles will survive long enough to prove the point, this will develop in positive ways for a full seven years.
92 Michael Franz Dec 13, 2022

Domaine de la Gayere , Cairanne (Rhône Valley ) “Villa Romana” 2014 ($20): Although quite rich, this is very sexy and soft in texture. Wines of this size with this textural character are almost always hot with alcohol--but there’s no hint of that in this case. I wouldn’t buy loads of this for fear that it might not improve or even last well, but for current consumption, it is worth a search. 92 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine des Amadieu, Cairanne (Rhône Valley ) “Hauts de Beauregard” 2014 ($24): You can call this “sauvage” in French or “wild” in English…but it will answer to either word, and loudly. Biodynamically farmed, it is very earthy, with a hint of brettanomyces, but the gamy note isn’t dominant, and the dense, deeply-flavored fruit is entirely capable of supporting this exotic accent note. Explosively aromatic, this is a borderline scary wine. Don’t serve it to your grandmother, and as for yourself, be seated for your first encounter with it. 92 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine Juliette Avril , Cairanne (Rhône Valley ) “Cuvée Mailys” 2014 ($20): Evidence indicates that almost all of this wine is sold locally, but that’s really just one more reason to travel to the southern Rhône. A big wine with lots of depth and density but no alcoholic heat at all, it is very impressive, with lots of coiled power that promises positive development for at least 3 or 4 years. 92 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine les Hautes Cances , Cairanne (Rhône Valley ) “Cuvée Tradition” 2014 ($22): Not for no reason is the word “Tradition” attached to this wine, which is an exciting throwback bottling with a pronounced rusticity. Gutsy, leathery, savory, grippy and compelling, this offers a wild ride that won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it will damned sure get everyone’s attention 92 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine de Dionysos , Cairanne (Rhône Valley ) “La Trilougio” 2014 ($28): This is obviously a “prestige” bottling of Cairainne, sold in a big bottle at a premium price. The wine is huge in proportions and flavor impact, and would earn a significantly higher price if not for notable alcoholic heat in the finish. No doubt plenty of other tasters will admire this more than I did, so if you are a fan of big, sappy southern Rhônes, give this a try. 91 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine La Vitalis , Cairanne (Rhône Valley ) 2015 ($16): Readers of a certain age will chortle at the name of this wine when recalling a horrible male hair tonic, but any derisive amusement will be dispelled immediately by the wine. Rich, deeply flavored fruit is framed by gutsy, grippy tannins--especially for a wine from 2015. Serious stuff, and very successful. 91 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine Wilfried , Cairanne (Rhône Valley ) “Terra Rosea” 2015 ($19): A biodynamically-farmed wine that shows serious treatment in the cellar as well as the vineyard, with a firm tannic spine and years of potential improvement. Already quite impressive, but built to develop over time. 91 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine Berthet-Rayne, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2015 ($18): Juicy and ripe, but with some nice verve thanks to a fresh beam of acidity. Simple, but in a straightforward and delicious way. Drink now with spicy grilled meats. 90 Michael Franz Jul 4, 2017

Domaine Catherine le Goeuil, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Lea Felsch” 2006 ($23, Kermit Lynch): This cuvée, the only one the producer makes, honors the current owner's grandmother. She would be pleased. Made from a typical Mediterranean blend--mostly (55%) Grenache, with Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault comprising the remainder--it is a charmingly robust wine. Layers of black fruit flavors, spice, and herbal nuances are supported by moderate tannins. It packs plenty of power without being overdone. This well-balanced wine is lovely now for hearty fall fare, but will smooth out even more over the next several years, so there's no rush. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Oratoire St. Martin, Cairanne - Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) “Réserve des Seigneurs” 2014 ($28, North Berkeley Wine):

With a whiff of violets in the aroma, a sophisticated concentration of fruit and spice in the flavor profile, and an overall dynamic character, this is an easy-drinking yet serious wine. Oratoire St Martin, which has been in the same family for some 400 years, uses no pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers in the vineyards, and it has followed biodynamic principles for the past several years. Much of the vineyard acreage is still plowed by horse, as it has been for generations. In 2016, Cairanne’s status was changed to cru status (from Côtes du Rhône Villages), putting it on the same AOC base as Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. Made from Grenache (20%), Mourvèdre (60%) and Syrah (20%). 91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 3, 2017

Famille Perrin, Cairanne - Côtes-du-Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) “Peyre Blanche” 2013 ($25, Vineyard Brands):

Softer and lighter than many Rhône Villages reds, this Carianne nonetheless offers plenty of intriguing earthy flavor undergirding its red fruit. Long on the palate, it tastes clearly of its origin. Don’t be afraid to serve it slightly chilled, particularly in hot weather.
91 Paul Lukacs Jul 12, 2016

Brotte, Cairanne AOC (Rhône Valley, France) "Creation Grosset" 2019 ($25, Monsieur Touton):

Cairanne became an official appellation in 2016, when it was promoted from the status of a named Côtes du Rhône Villages. Domaine Brotte includes four estates, including Alain Grosset ‘s Domaine Grosset, a 10-hectare (25-acre) estate in Cairanne. It is a traditional blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah with a dark ruby color and juicy plush, round with flavors of plum, dark cherry fruit spiced with a touch of black pepper. Vibrant acidity enlivens the flavors and dusty tannins are well integrated.
94 Rebecca Murphy Apr 11, 2023

Boutinot, Cairanne AOC (Rhône Valley, France) “La Cóte Sauvage” 2019 ($28):

Boutinot is an international wine exporter with a number of wineries making excellent high-end wines for their own portfolio. Among these, their namesake Domaine Boutinot was established in 2010 in Carianne after a number of years making strong relationships with winemakers in the region. The wine is silky and smooth with sweet fruit notes. Despite the winery’s use of neutral French oak, toasted coconut and chocolate notes bring back memories of Mounds Bars, introducing a nice contrast to classic Rhône earthy terroir. Cairanne was upgraded to a named village AOC in 2016 after quality wines like this were challenging the likes of Gigondas and Vacqueyras.
90 Vince Simmon Jan 16, 2024

Domaine de la Présidente, Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2016 ($17):

This appetizing blend of Grenache and Syrah has fully developed aromas and flavors suggesting red fruits such as cherries lightly seasoned with licorice and vanilla. The tannins are soft and the finish is long. The estate was founded in 1701 by the wife of Simon Alexandre, president of the Parliament of Provence.
93 Marguerite Thomas Jun 25, 2019

Domaine Brusset, Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Travers” 2010 ($19, Simon N Cellars): An excellent representative of an outstanding vintage in the southern Rhône, this wine strikes a perfect balance between clarity and purity, on one hand, and intriguing earthiness on the other. Abundantly endowed with richness and flavor, it nevertheless shows fresh acidity and good tannic grip in the finish. Capable of improving for another few years, this is nevertheless already quite delicious, and is well suited to almost any white or red meat from the late summer grill. 90 Michael Franz Sep 3, 2013

Perrin & Fils, Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône, France) “Peyre Blanche” 2007 ($25, Vineyard Brands): A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, this is an excellent wine from the Southern Rhône that is very well balanced and enduringly pleasant to drink. The fruit shows ample concentration, and yet there’s no astringency or suggestion of over-extraction. Notes of red and black cherries are fresh and vivid, with a spicy edge and just a faint hint of emerging earthiness to lend added interest to the aromatics. Delicious already, this should become even more complex over the next few years.
90 Michael Franz Dec 22, 2009

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Pavillon des Courtisanes” 2005 ($21, Palm Bay Imports): This is a very polished and pleasing Côtes du Rhône from the village of Cairanne, which is sufficiently exalted to be able to attach its name to the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation designation. Medium-bodied, with good depth of flavor, it shows lovely fruit recalling dark berries and red cherries, with soft texture, light tannin, and just a subtle whiff of wood. Pair with grilled pork or veal. 89 Michael Franz Apr 8, 2008

Chateau De La Font Du Loup, Châteauneuf du Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Puy Rolland” 2020 ($65, Cynthia Hurley Wines):

Châteauneuf du Pape can often produce dense, high-alcohol wines. Chateau de la Font’s 100% Grenache “Le Puy Rolland” strikes a beautifully different chord. Grown on north-facing slopes of sandy soil, the grapes for this wine ripen more slowly, yielding a lower alcohol (14.5%), lighter, and more nimble expression of Châteauneuf. The nimble character of the wine is further preserved through the use of neutral oak and stainless steel for aging prior to bottling. With a swirl, aromas of roses, strawberries, cherries, vanilla, nutmeg, and cinnamon all waft up from the glass. In the mouth, red fruit flavors dominate, with bright acidity. Chewy tannins fade into a lengthy finish. This is a beautiful expression of Châteauneuf du Pape that manages to feel new and exciting while staying true to its roots at the same time.
95 John McDermott Oct 31, 2023

Crous St. Martin, Châteauneuf du Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2017 ($36):

Great layered aroma profile and structured for decades of life, this is a real treat to taste in its youth. Black, blue and red fruit are balanced nicely with pepper, fall spice and vanilla notes that linger long over fine-grained tannins. This is just starting to show itself, and it is a value-driven treasure you’ll want to park more than a couple bottles of in your cellar. Contains 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvédre.
95 Rich Cook Feb 25, 2020

Chateau la Nerthe, Châteauneuf du Pape (Rhône, France) "Cuvée des Cadettes" 2005 ($165):

You can taste the warm, dry summer of 2005 in this wine. It has a little touch of smoke, a suggestion of sun-baked earth, a whiff of wild herbs, and a whole lot of supremely ripe fruit. A uniquely rich, powerful and elegant wine, drink it now or tuck it away for another few years if you can bear waiting for it. 94 Marguerite Thomas Apr 26, 2011

Domaine de la Janasse, Châteauneuf du Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Vielles Vignes 2015 ($120, European Cellars):

With eight years of age on this bottle, it is drinking wonderfully. Vielles Vignes, which translates to “Old Vines,” is the Domaine de la Janasse’s flagship cuvée. The fruit is just starting to show signs of bottle aging, with wild strawberry, fig, prune, and leather notes. The wine’s youthful power is still intact, suggesting there is a clear path for further development from aging. This wine is still widely available on the market. The winery suggests cellaring past the 10-year mark but, based on the way this is drinking now, I find it perfectly acceptable to start enjoying today.
94 Vince Simmon Aug 29, 2023

Domaine Paul Autard, Châteauneuf du Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($44):

This wine is the ultimate crowd pleaser with something for everyone. Leather, tobacco, dried cranberry, smoke, wild strawberries, and fig are just a start for the journey one will take when trying this wine. Paul Autard has been running the winery since he was 17 years old and he has pushed the winery into farming in a more sustainable way. Some of the vines are pushing 90 years old and still producing delicious and complex fruit. You won't go wrong drinking this wine today, but neither would you be wrong to lay some bottles down for the future.
90 Vince Simmon Jan 3, 2023

Domaine de Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf du Pape (Rhône Valley, France) "La Crau" 2003 ($45, Kermit Lynch): Ripe fruit and the warmth of the vintage give this wine a slight impression of sweetness on the attack, which is well matched by firm, grainy tannin in the mid- and rear palate. Complex aromas and flavors include sun-baked black fruits, smoky notes, leather, and uplifting herbal and licorice accents. This wine shows complexity and elegance now, but could use a couple of years to soften its tannin. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Feb 6, 2007

Tardieu-Laurent, Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge (Rhône, France) “Cuvée Speciale” 2007 ($87, Wilson Daniels): Ardent wine lovers are likely already aware that many terrific wines were made in Châteauneuf du Pape in the 2007 vintage, but here’s one that has yet to be sold out--and it is one of the very best wines of an amazing year. Made entirely from Grenache that was grown on very

old vines (roughly 100 years) in the sandy soils near Rayas, this was whole-cluster fermented. That makes very good sense, since there so much ripe fruit in the wine that it could easily counterbalance stem tannins, which lend structure and coherence to the finished wine. The aromas and flavors are remarkably complex and captivating, including notes of red raspberry and cherry and exotic accents of flowers, Asian spices, candied orange peel and cocoa powder. In terms of overall character, the wine shows both masculine elements (gutsy stem tannins) and feminine ones (lifted, intricate aromatics), and the sheer complexity of the wine could keep you keenly focused for every minute until the bottle runs dry. Every so often I encounter a bottle that recharges my awareness that wine can be something unearthly and magical, and this is one of them. 97 Michael Franz May 31, 2011

Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (France) 2012 ($65): One thing I've learned about La Nerthe over the years is that it's generally better at 10 than it is at 4. So if it's fairly delicious now, those with extraordinary patience will likely be rewarded in the long run. Thus the 2012 vintage is yet another beautiful Chateauneuf from La Nerthe, with ripe, juicy red-fruit aromas and a generous helping of wood spice, but my strong inclination would be to lay this wine down for another five to eight years and wait for its profound complexities to emerge.
93 Robert Whitley Oct 4, 2016

Chateau la Nerthe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Rouge 2012 ($63, Pasternak):

The 2012 vintage got off to a worrisome start, with winter freezes and strong mistral winds doing some damage in the vineyards, followed by a cool, damp spring, and then a dry and very hot summer, especially in August. But for all its challenges the finished wine casts a spell with its complex aromas and exemplary red and black fruit flavors. An energetic and vivacious wine, it also has a long, satisfying finish.
93 Marguerite Thomas May 3, 2016

E. Guigal, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Rhone Valley, France) 2005 ($50, Ex Cellars Wine Agency):

Guigal is the Rhone’s most talented producer. His array of wines—from inexpensive Cotes du Rhone to single vineyard Cote Rôtie priced in the triple digits—is unmatched. Take this Châteauneuf-du-Pape for example. He owns no land there and has no vineyards. He selects and buys newly made wine from growers. Then he blends and ages it to come up with a finished wine that meets his standards and style. The result is fabulous. Floral and forward, it conveys an almost magical balanced combination of red fruit, herbal notes and smoky nuances wrapped in silky tannins. It has the suaveness and refinement emblematic of Guigal’s style. Judging from his past wines, this one will improve and gain even more complexity with age, but frankly, it is gorgeous—and hard to resist—now. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010

Maison Bouachon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (France) 'La Tiare du Pape' 2006 ($39, SFW Inports):

Bouachon's Chateauneuf is a refined example of what the region can produce when it is focused on quality and terroir rather the opulence of overripe fruit, which remains the fashion at many neighboring properties. The La Tiare du Pape has a firm backbone, yet still exhibits sweet raspberry and blackcurrant fruit, with hints of cinnamon and vanilla spice. It is crafted to age gracefully over the next seven to 10 years, making it a candidate for a bit of extended maturation in the cellar. 92 Robert Whitley Sep 15, 2009

Famille Perrin, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Sinards” 2010 ($45, Vineyard Brands): With earthiness and spice, along with hints of dried fruit and wild fennel, this deep red wine has an appealing rusticity. It is also fresh and lively, with sprightly tannins and a reasonably long finish.
90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 28, 2014

Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2009 ($119, Vineyard Brands): Beaucastel is one of the top properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Year after year, they produce a multidimensional, age-worthy wine. Although Mourvèdre and Grenache, at about 30% each, comprise the majority of the blend, Beaucastel uses all 13 grape varieties permitted in the appellation, which may explain the phenomenal complexity of their wines, especially the 2009. Their 2009 combines exotic earthy nuances with ripe red and black fruit flavors without being overdone, alcoholic or heavy. It’s remarkable for its power coupled with refinement and freshness. New flavors emerge with each sip and after 30 minutes it’s as though you are tasting an entirely different wine. Though seductive and engaging now, my experience with Beaucastel tells me it will evolve beautifully over the next two decades. Lovers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in general or Beaucastel in particular or will want this one in their cellars. 96 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012

Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) "Cuvée des Cadettes" 2005 ($165, Pasternak Wine Imports): Cadettes is French for the second-born daughter. (I can only imagine how the first-born daughter must have felt to be bypassed when La

Nerthe selected the name for their flagship cuvée.) The 2005, like its predecessors, is a gorgeous wine. A blend of equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre fermented together, it is not made every year. In 2007, a reportedly great year in Châteauneuf du Pape, the winemaker decided not to make it because the Mourvèdre didn’t fare so well and was not worthy of being included in their top wine. Omitting the Mourvèdre was not an option because without it, the wine would have been unbalanced. It’s that dedication to quality that makes this cuvée so consistently exciting. The 2005 is an elegant powerhouse with layers and layers of spice, earth and fruit flavors. It’s so packed, it’s almost chewy, but enlivened with invigorating acidity. Amazingly, it’s not aggressive or overwrought. Polished tannins allow you to enjoy it now although its true complexity with emerge with another five to 10 years of cellaring. 96 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011

Domaine de la Mordorée, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reine des Bois” 2018 ($101, Kysela Père et Fils):

Domaine de la Mordorée, founded only in 1986 by the Delorme family, makes a wonderful range of wines from several southern Rhône appellations. La Reine des Bois is, for all practical purposes, their top Châteauneuf-du-Pape (They do make a special cuvée occasionally, once or twice a decade, labeled Plume du Peintre, which is practically impossible to find and priced for the one-percenters of the world.) Mostly (~80 percent) Grenache based, La Reine des Bois has extraordinary power and equally extraordinary elegance. Its 15-percent stated alcohol reflects its power, but you can’t put a number on its suave elegance. And I wouldn’t be put off by its alcohol because it’s a balanced wine and Grenache, for whatever reason, can produce wines high in alcohol without their showing it. Despite a gorgeous combination of dark fruits, it’s not a fruity wine. Herbal elements impart a distinct and beguiling savory component. It’s explosive on the palate without a trace of heaviness or in-your-face flamboyance. It’s incredibly seductive to drink now, especially if your tastes run to powerful wines, but I suspect there will be far more complexity with a decade of cellaring because of its balance. If you have a hundred bucks for a bottle of wine, this is an excellent choice.
96 Michael Apstein Dec 14, 2021

Château Fortia, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée du Baron” 2018 ($36, AJ Selections):

In this charming Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache’s strawberry, raspberry flavors shine, supported by Mourvèdre’s blueberry, black plum fruit and Syrah’s floral and peppery notes. It is medium-bodied with lively acidity and grainy tannins. Historical documents suggest that in 18th century a small farm existed on the property where Château Fortia is today. Hercule Paul de Fortia acquired the estate in 2001 when he married Edmée Bernard Le Saint, who owned Château Fortia. He was instrumental in creating the National Institute of Appellations of Origin. Not surprisingly, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation was the first of the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlé.
95 Rebecca Murphy Mar 26, 2024

Famille Perrin / Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($120, Vineyard Brands): This is what I think of as a Lolita wine: It has the energetic charm, silky plumpness and spicy-feral fragrance of adolescence, plus the promise of maturing into a great and elegant beauty in a few years. But you don’t have to wait -- with its smoldering amalgam of dark purple elements (plums, berries, violets) it’s irresistible now.
95 Marguerite Thomas Nov 17, 2015

Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($95, Vineyard Brands):

Southern Rhône red wines assault the senses with an enticing array of fruit, floral, earth, herb and spice elements. Château de Beaucastel is an iconic Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer. The 2012 Beaucastel offers the sensual pleasures we seek in southern Rhône reds -- pleasures we can enjoy now and for years to come. Made mostly from Grenache and Mourvèdre grapes, it captivates with its combination of juicy, ripe fruit, flowers and spices. The bouquet reveals luscious strawberry, blackberry, and cherry fruits followed by hints of lavender, marjoram, vanilla and cinnamon. On the palate, the layers of ripe strawberry and blackberry fruit are enhanced by the exotic floral, herb and spice tones. While certainly robust, the 2012 Beaucastel displays a fine balance and elegance that will repay cellaring for another two decades.
94 Wayne Belding May 17, 2016

Domaine Bois de Boursan, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée des Félix” 2017 ($95, Louis/Dressner):

Jean-Paul Versino's Domaine Bois de Boursan is a bastion of traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In years offering quality permitting it, Jean-Paul separates his oldest, lowest-yielding vines into this cuvée. His 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, driven by Grenache, is like velvet in a bottle. It is lush with a depth of layered flavors, including plum, blackberry, black currant, allspice, clove, leather, and dark chocolate. It has an enveloping mouthfeel, multi-layered texture, and a sensational lingering finish. For lovers of old-style Rhône wines, this bottle is for you.
94 Miranda Franco Aug 31, 2021

Famille Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Les Sinards 2019 ($50, Vineyard Brands):

This is a superb vintage for this wine, showing exceptional complexity in both aroma and flavor that was achieved without any notable over-ripeness. Indeed, the overall impression is one of purity and freshness, which is very impressive for a wine that is so expressive. Based on 80% Grenache, it shows mostly red fruit tones, but these are enveloped in savory scents and lovely flavor nuances recalling wild herbs, freshly tilled earth and soft spices. Irresistibly delicious now, one should still try to resist its charms for another few years to allow it to become even more complex, as there’s no risk at all of the fruit drying out anytime soon.
94 Michael Franz May 17, 2022

Clos des Brusquieres, Courtil-Thibaut, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2017 ($45, Wines Of France):

Here’s a delightful, hand-harvested Châteauneuf that won’t break the bank. It leads with Grenache and all of its red fruit and pepper character and gets midpalate support from 10% Mourvedre and 9% Syrah that flesh up the texture and add some black fruit and savory character. The nose entices with bright cherry and gingerbread spice up front, softening with some airtime and adding in the darker fruits. You would never guess that the alcohol comes in at 15%, thanks to the exceptional balance and acidic structure, and the delivery of the nose elements as palate flavors isn’t supplanted by any traces of heat. A definite overachiever at this price level.
93 Rich Cook Feb 23, 2021

Domaine de la Barroch, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Pure” 2006 ($94, The Sorting Table): You have to search the bottle to know this wine is from Châteauneuf-du-Pape because that information is hidden on the back label. The front label--pure white--has just the word Pure on it. Fortunately, the contents of the bottle upstage the edgy labeling. Fabulously complex and balanced, its exotic flavors of dark cherries and a haunting gaminess are actually enhanced by an ever-so-subtle bitterness. It has a savory, meaty character that gives you--dare I say--'pure' joy. 93 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Domaine du Père Caboche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($36, Monsieur Touton):

A blend of 80% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah, this attractive wine presents a lush, deep red color. The wine’s inviting aromas and flavors evoke red and black fruits anchored by discreet touches of chocolate, ginger, and black pepper. Jean-Pierre Boisson, who owns and runs Domaine Père Caboche along with his children Emilie and Nicolas, is the former long-serving mayor of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Boisson family has included winemakers and blacksmiths for generations. Caboche is a family nickname that derives from the old Provencal word for horseshoe nails. The oldest section of the domaine's vineyard dates back to 1906. The soils are dominated by limestone, pebbles, sandstone, clay and sand. The grapes are hand-harvested at full maturity then carefully sorted, destemmed, and crushed. The fermentation temperature is strictly controlled, and the wine is aged for 12 months in oak and stainless-steel tanks.
93 Marguerite Thomas Mar 21, 2023

Chateau La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($65, Pasternak): Here's a Châteauneuf for the cellar. Aromatically complex already, with notes of cola, blueberry, cinnamon and mint, it's got the palate structure to live long, gaining elegance along the way. It's quite firm, but the nose elements are beginning to show themselves as flavors. I'd age a minimum of five years before trying again, when I'll likely raise my score a few points. It's also AB Certified Organic. Contains 48% Grenache, 29% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre and 1% Cinsault. 92 Rich Cook Oct 11, 2016

Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($48, Pasternak Wine Imports): Christian Voeux, La Nerthe’s winemaker, describes 2007 as “a fantastic vintage,” because, as he puts it, “there was rain and wind just at the right time.” The 2007 La Nerthe certainly has all the traits of coming from a great vintage. It also benefits from Voeux’s decision not to make their super-duper wine, Cuvée des Cadettes, that year. It’s remarkably fresh and vibrant despite the ripe (14.2% alcohol) briary black fruit flavors. The supple tannins envelop layers of spice and herbal notes. It’s definitely a robust wine, but with engaging elegance and terrific length. 92 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011

Domaine Roger Sabon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Olivets” 2018 ($49, European Cellars):

The Sabon family is a historic name in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, first mentioned in documents dating to 1540. The first vintage was bottled under the family's name in 1921. The 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Les Olivets is the entry-level wine of the estate and is based on 80 percent Grenache and 10 percent of Syrah and Cinsault. Hints of candied violet appear alongside ripe black cherries, plum, underbrush, and baking spice flavors. It is luscious and beautifully balanced, with well-integrated tannins and lingering spiciness on the finish. Immediately approachable, it can be savored now or cellared over the coming years.
92 Miranda Franco Apr 19, 2022

E. Guigal, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2010 ($59, Vintus): Remarkable in many ways, this Chateauneuf-du-Pape is lean and vigorous. It is earthy, with hints of sweet spice and wild herbs, plus soft, gentle tannins. It has an agreeably long finish and it should get even better with a little more age.
92 Marguerite Thomas Dec 6, 2016

Famille Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Sinards” 2011 ($38, Vineyard Brands):

Both 2009 and 2010 were terrific years in the southern Rhône, so I was prepared to see a major drop-off in quality in 2011. Well, as I continue to taste releases from this vintage, I’m still waiting to see that drop-off, and still not finding it. This wine (made by the family behind Chateau Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, presumably from fruit that was predominantly purchased) is very expressive in both aromatic and flavor terms, with nice savory undertones, admirably restrained wood, and at least 5 to 7 years of positive development still ahead of it. Attractively priced and styled to enjoy now or later, this is a strong value and an impressive effort
92 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2014

Domaine Lou Frejau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($50, AP Wine Imports): Founded by Serge Chastan in 1982, Domaine Lou Frejau, which means round pebbles after the stones found in the vineyards, produces this Châteauneuf-du-Pape from all of the eight permitted varieties of red grapes. Their 2007 is certainly filled with ripe fruit flavors and spice, but also displays considerable elegance unlike many of the super concentrated southern Rhone wines from that year. Polished tannins make it easy to recommend for hearty winter time fare now, but its overall harmony suggests it will develop nicely with another five to ten years of cellar, so there’s no rush. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012

Perrin & Fils, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Sinards" 2005 ($32, Vineyard Brands): One of the best renditions of this wine I've ever tasted, this features

very pure, expressive fruit showing dark berry and both red and black cherry notes. Ripe and generous but lifted by fresh acidity and accented with just a subtle touch of wood, this is an undeniably delicious wine that will prove very versatile with food thanks to its balance and purity. 90 Michael Franz Dec 25, 2007

Perrin et Fils, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Sinards” 2005 ($33, Vineyard Brands): Powerful, yes, but it's this wine's refinement that shows why Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the southern Rhone's most well-known appellation. A beautiful minerality and floral components harmonize effortlessly with spicy nuances. Though made from the usual blend of Mediterranean grapes, this wine has a gracefulness not usually associated with the southern Rhône that makes it enjoyable to drink now. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008

Domaine de Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhone Valley, France) "La Crau" 2003 ($45, Kermit Lynch):

Ripe fruit and the warmth of the vintage give this wine a slight impression of sweetness on the attack, which is well matched by firm, grainy tannin in the mid- and rear palate. Complex aromas and flavors include sun-baked black fruits, smoky notes, leather, and uplifting herbal and licorice accents. This wine shows complexity and elegance now, but could use a couple of years to soften its tannin.
89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 23, 2007

Saint-Galet, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($30, Grape Expectations):

Sometimes the background story is more interesting than the wine. So the story here has it that the importing company hired Eric Bonnet of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique to make a wine for them aimed at the restaurant trade. In other words, one that could be enjoyed when released. So he came up with a blend of 80% Grenache, 12% Mourvedre, and 8% Syrah. And sure enough, this wine offers wide and immediate appeal. Fresh blackberry and black raspberry aromas lead to a round smooth mid-palate with a juicy ripe and slightly earthy flavor profile. Finishing with light tannin, it is a pleasing, fruit-filled uncomplicated wine.
89 Norm Roby Feb 1, 2022

Le Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley) “Télégramme” 2009 ($42, Kermit Lynch): The second wine of the famed Vieux Télégraphe, Télégramme is made from what the Brunier family calls their “young” Grenache vines, 20 to 25 years old! The 2009 vintage produced rich ripe wines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the ‘09 Télégramme fits that mold. With more primary fruit and less complexity that the 2009 Vieux Télégraphe, it is nonetheless extremely satisfying for its vivacious bright fruit intertwined with spice. Easy to drink now because of suave tannins, it’s a good choice for hearty winter fare.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2013

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Ruchets” 2009 ($90, Palm Bay International): I vastly prefer the 2010 vintage in the Southern Rhône to 2009, but in the N

orth, these two thoroughbred years really run neck-and-neck. The 2010s are brighter but also tighter, and will take a long time to hit their optimal time windows for enjoyment. The 2009s will show a much higher percentage of their charms earlier on, and yet, serious wines from Cornas, Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage are very serious indeed, and bear little resemblance to ripe-and-ready wines from a downright hot year like 2003. This wine is a fine case in point for showing the strength of the top 2009s, as it is quite rich and broad in texture, very deep in flavor, and quite muscular in overall terms--yet also really fresh and nimble for its size, with a clear beam of acidity shining through its masses of ripe fruit. There’s no apparent raisining in the wine’s fruit profile, and though wood is still showing as a distinct aromatic and flavor component, it is neither rough nor raw, but rather a welcome counterweight to the richness of the fruit. Undeniably delicious now, but with a long and happy life ahead of it.
95 Michael Franz Mar 17, 2015

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) “La Louvee” 2011 ($95, Palm Bay International):

Cornas “La Louvee” 2011: Somewhat to my surprise, this gorgeous wine from 2001 showed an even riper fruit profile than the Les Ruchets from 2009. It also showed less overt oak, though I confess that I found it difficult to tell whether less new oak was involved in the vinification and ageing…or whether it was simply swathed in so much gorgeous fruit that is was less discernable. No matter. The fact is that this is a big, meaty, muscular Syrah that -- for all of its softness -- is nevertheless beautifully proportioned. The balance of fruit, acidity, wood and tannin is essentially impossible to fault in any respect. The immediacy of its charms made me want to give it a lower score than the 2009 Les Ruchets, but every time I returned to it, I was persuaded not to do so. Damned delicious wine.
95 Michael Franz Mar 17, 2015

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) La Louvee 2004 ($66, Palm Bay Imports): Jean-Luc Colombo is one of the great Rhône Valley winemakers, and nowhere is he better than on his home turf, the village of Cornas, with his sturdy, 100% Syrah single-vineyard Cornas wines. The 2004 La Louvee, with its 85-year-old vines, will be one of his great wines. It is full-bodied, opulent, intense, and concentrated, with blue and black fruits, and power to spare. A superb Syrah wine, this is very well-balanced, with a long finish. It obviously needs a few years of aging, but should become a masterpiece. 94 Ed McCarthy Oct 10, 2006

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Les Ruchets 2009 ($70, Palm Bay International): Colombo is one of the best producers of Cornas, an appellation in the

northern Rhône which lacks the popularity of Côte Rôtie or Hermitage, but which like those, uses the Syrah grape. He makes a variety of Cornas from different vineyards that vary in exposure and vine age. The thread that links them is an extraordinary, especially for Cornas, class and refinement. Les Ruchets comes from 90-year old vines planted on a steep 38-degree granite slope. It is a big wine, yet remarkably polished, and, dare I say, elegant (not a word often used to describe Cornas). There’s a spicy--almost peppery--element to its minerality. You can feel the granite. Although his wines develop beautifully, this one is remarkably approachable now, especially with hearty fare. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

Vincent Paris, Cornas (Rhone Valley) 'Le Geynale' 2012 ($65, Old World Wine Co.): Northern Rhône Syrahs somehow combine astonishing power with style and grace. Vincent Paris’ Cornas “Le Geynale” bottling comes from a small plot of century-old Syrah vines in Cornas. This is a rich and complex red. Lovely aromas of blackberry, black cherry and blackcurrant are enhanced by elements of violets, smoke, earth, bacon and mint. The flavors are pure and enticing, with layers of ripe black fruits given lift by a hint of raspberry and exotic smoke, floral, mint and spice tones. The wine has an intense, nearly creamy texture that reflects its old-vine heritage. It can easily age for another 10-20 years. 94 Wayne Belding Feb 3, 2015

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) La Louvée 2009 ($70, Palm Bay International): La Louvée (“she-wolf”) comes from 70-yr old Syrah vines planted on “only” a 30-degree slope. Organic matter covers the granite and gives the wine a slighter rounder sense than the Les Ruchots (also reviewed this week). Fruit flavors are more apparent with minerality in the background. Nuances of bacon-fat add an exotic touch. A classy Cornas 93 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) “Domaine de Saint Pierre” 2012 ($112, Frederick Wildman):

Sourced from several parcels that are clustered close to one another near the top of the Cornas appellation, this is just terrific in the 2012 vintage. On one hand, it shows, very impressive richness and depth of flavor, yet--no doubt due to the big swings in day-to-night temperature in these high-elevation vineyard sites, the wine also shows excellent freshness and purity of fruit. Completely convincing now, this really deserves another five years of ageing to develop even more complexity, and it is sure to develop in a positive direction for a full decade if you can muster sufficient patience.
93 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2015

Tardieu-Laurent, Cornas (Rhône, France) “Coteaux Rouge” 2007 ($69, Wilson Daniels):

Compellingly aromatic and deeply flavorful despite the fact that it is only moderately weighty, this wine is all about character and class. Polished tannins and high-class oak contribute to the impression of very high quality, and exotic notes of cured meat work beautifully with the core of dark berry fruit. 93 Michael Franz May 31, 2011

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Vallon de L’Aigle 2009 ($88, Palm Bay International): This is Colombo’s top cuvée, from old vines sitting atop a ridge. The firmest and most mineraly of his wines, it has distinct peppery notes, which act like a condiment and enliven the wine. Big and concentrated, the tannins are firm, but fine. Tightly wound at this stage, it needs time in the cellar to blossom.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône, France) "Terres Brulées" 2005 ($78, Palm Bay International): Colombo's renditions of Cornas are cleaner and more modern in

style than is the norm for this appellation, and hence his wines tend to take a little more time than most to show a lot of character and complexity. However, this particular bottling is already quite expressive, with dark berry fruit accented with notes of roasted meat, wild mushrooms, spices and woodsmoke. Very flavorful but not heavy, this would be perfect for a grilled veal chop, though it could easily hold its own with lamb or beef. 92 Michael Franz May 19, 2009

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Les Ruchets 2006 ($83, Palm Bay Imports):

Sourced from fruit from a single, 90 year-old vineyard, this young wine is already quite expressive aromatically, with appealing notes of dark berries, cured meat, spices, smoke, and a faint floral accent. Medium- to full-bodied, it is not heavy at any point, but is quite generously flavored. Spicy, toasty oak notes work well with the wine's weight, and offer added firmness to the finish without any astringent character. 91 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2009

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Les Ruchets 2004 ($60, Palm Bay): The only problem with Colombo's 2004 Les Ruchets is its tannin. It needs some time to soften. Made from 75-year-old vines, it is a real powerhouse, with lots of packed berry fruit. Colombo's other single-vineyard Cornas, La Louvee, has better balance right now, but the '04 Les Ruchets just has to age a bit more. 91 Ed McCarthy Oct 10, 2006

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) “Terres Brulées” 2011 ($50, Palm Bay International): If you prefer intensity and a shade of wildness in your red wines as opposed to elegance and class, then Colombo can help you dial things up with three excellent wines from Cornas. This bottling is sourced from multiple sites in different parts of the appellation. It shows a very pleasing and versatile balance of freshness and gutsiness, with deeply flavored fruit but no excessive ripeness or weight. The wood is well measured; the acidity is nice and bright, and the tannins are grippy but not astringent. Very nicely done.
91 Michael Franz Mar 17, 2015

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Terres Brulées 2009 ($48, Palm Bay International): The Terres Brulées is the name Colombo gives to the 20-year old vines planted near the winery. Vigorous and youthful, it delivers spice and liquorice-like flavors. It’s beautifully balanced, with no sharp edges. The tannins are polished, which mean you can enjoy it now with wintry fare. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas AOC (Rhone Valley, France) Terres Brulees 2012 ($50):

Jean-Luc Colombo is the man in Cornas, where he revolutionized winemaking and viticulture and put the AOC on par with its more prestigious neighbors in Hermitage and Cote-Rotie. The JLC Cornas (he produces a number from his various vineyards) is invariably elegant yet built for the long haul. The 2012 Terres Brulees if firmly structured and beautifully layered with aromas of blackberry and blueberry. The fruit is remarkably pure. This is a fab addition to any cellar. A panel of advanced and master sommeliers at the 7th annual Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition gave it 94 points and a Platinum award. 94 Robert Whitley Sep 15, 2015

Marc Kreydenweiss, Costieres de Nimes (Rhône, France) "Perrieres" 2003 ($14, Wilson Daniels Ltd.): This tasty blend of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache is up front and juicy, with refined tannins and brisk acidity. Given the reputation for these three grapes to produce muscular wines, it's a pleasant surprise that this blend is moderate and balanced. If this is what biodynamics can do for a wine, then bring it on. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 14, 2006

Mas de Guiot, Costieres de Nimes (Rhône Valley, France) “Alex” 2006 ($18, Robert Kacher Selections): A blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Cabernet (named for the American importer's son), this is a full-bodied wine that offers deep, dark fruit flavors enhanced by peppery undertones. Though aged in new oak, the wood stays in the background, as the wine's own character is very forceful. Pair 'Alex,' which is definitely not a wine for the weak of palate, with equally forceful foods. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 25, 2008

Les Grandes Cabanes, Costieres de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) 2008 ($15, Palm Bay International): Beautifully balanced, showing plenty of savory spice and accents reminiscent of dried herbs and sun-baked earth, this is a compelling, complex Rhône red. Very fairly priced, it should provide satisfying drinking for a good five years. 90 Paul Lukacs Jan 26, 2010

Mas des Bressades, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Tradition” 2015 ($15, Robert Kacher Selections): Costières de Nîmes, one of the lesser-known subregions of the greater Rhône Valley, lies on the right (western) bank of the river. Wines from here lack the popularity -- and price -- of the more upscale subregions, such as Vacqueyras or Cairanne. Hence, they are fertile hunting ground for bargains, such as this one. It’s a blend of Syrah and Grenache that delivers a refined or charming rusticity. It’s a nicely balanced blend of spice, herbal notes and fruity elements. A perfect choice for those hearty dinners on the horizon as the temperature drops.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2016

Domaine de Saint-Antoine, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône, France) "Cuvée des Oliviers" 2003 ($15, Robert Kacher Selections): The heat of 2003 did strange things to wines all over Europe, but it produced truly wonderful results for the best producers in the southern Rhône. This bottling shows excellent concentration and depth, with red and black fruit notes showing great purity but also real assertiveness. Oak notes are notable but very well attuned to the weight and intensity of the fruit, and the ripeness of the juice lends a rounded texture that makes this as great a pleasure before biting into dinner as it is at the table. 89 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2006

Marc Kreydenweiss, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) 2005 ($13, Wilson Daniels):

Known predominantly for excellent wines from Alsace, Kreydenweiss also makes this impressive wine from the southern Rhône. Dark, dense and impressively concentrated, it is nevertheless not over-ripe or over-extracted. The fruit is fresh and expressive, showing vivid notes of dark berries and black cherries, with tannins that are abundant but ripe and well balanced against the weight of the fruit. 89 Michael Franz Mar 18, 2008

Château de Campuget, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) "Tradition Rouge" 2004 ($13, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The right (west) bank of France's Rhône River has many undiscovered areas, including the Costières de Nîmes, a small area stretching between Nîmes and Arles. For Château de Campuget's Tradition Rouge, the usual Mediterranean suspects-Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre-are blended to yield a wine that delivers a hefty dose of spice and intensity yet retains finesse. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006

Marc Kreydenweiss, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) “Perrières” 2005 ($14, Wilson Daniels): Known predominantly for decades of fine winemaking in Alsace, Mark Kreydenweiss has also been turning out this wine from the southern Rhône valley for several years now. The 2005 rendition is concentrated and meaty, with deep pigmentation, strong flavors, and lots of tannic structure atop a core of flavorful fruit. 88 Michael Franz Jan 22, 2008

Mas Carlot, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône, France) "Les Enfants Terribles" 2004 ($13, Robert Kacher Selections): I don't know how they can fit this much flavor and fun into a 750ml bottle, or how they can sell it for $13. With marvelously expressive, perfectly pure red berry notes leading the way in both aroma and flavor, this is juicy and soft but not grapey. Medium-bodied and quite soft in texture, this will work with an exceedingly wide array of foods ranging from grilled fish through chicken and duck and up to grilled pork or veal. Delicious! 88 Michael Franz Mar 7, 2006

Perrin, Côte du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve 2004 ($10, Vineyard Brands): The Perrin family consistently makes outstanding wine at their estate, Château Beaucastel, in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their wines sold under the Perrin label represent their négociant business in which they buy newly made wines from others, blend, age and bottle them. This easy-to-drink wine has plenty of intensity, juicy ripe fruitiness and lip-smacking acidity. Thankfully not an overdone powerhouse, it's polished and has unusual elegance for a simple Côte du Rhône. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007

Domaine de la Renjarde, Côte du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2003 ($13, Serge Doré Selections): Wines labeled Côte du Rhône Villages should be a cut above those labeled Côte du Rhône because they come from 18 selected villages with the potential to make better wine. Often they are not, but in this instance, Domaine de la Renjarde fulfills expectations. Juicy with earthy overtones, it is a well-balanced wine not marred by the over-ripeness common in wines from the scorching 2003 vintage. Its robust profile and supporting tannins make it an ideal winter wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007

Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône, France) Château dAmpuis 2001 ($140, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal introduced this wine, a blend from six exceptionally well located parcels-three on the Côte Brune and three on the Côte Blonde-with the 1995 vintage. It's meant to be a bridge between his regular Brune et Blonde and the single vineyards wines, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque. The 2001 is simply marvelous-layers of fruit, spice and minerals all intertwined-and surrounded by Guigal's signature suppleness and finesse. 96 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2006

Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) Brune et Blonde 2003 ($85, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): The quality and resulting deserved popularity of this wine--along with

a sinking dollar--has increased its price dramatically. Nonetheless, the Guigal's sensational 2003 Brune et Blonde, clearly one of his best ever, should be in every Rhône-lover's cellar. This young wine is packed and succulent without being overdone. It delivers incredible waves of flavor and almost magically combines the plumy and peppery aspect of Syrah. Pluminess comes from the extra ripeness imparted by the heat that marked that vintage. The peppery component persists because that's the character of wine made from grapes grown on the steep slopes of the Côte Rôtie. 96 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007

Domaine Bernard Burgaud, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($73):

Côte Rôtie, a small appellation in the Northern Rhône that is home to spectacular red wines, allows the inclusion of up to 20 percent Viognier. Burgaud included some Viognier in their Côte Rôtie in the past, but Pierre Burgaud, who is currently in charge, told me that with climate change and better ripening of Syrah, they no longer feel the need to add Viognier to bolster the alcohol. This 100 percent Syrah, a blend from many parcels in the Côte Blonde, the southern portion of the appellation, displays a marvelous mixture of dark fruit, meaty nuances and a firm minerality. Succulent and fresh, the wine is wrapped in fine tannins that impart a suave texture. I just drank a sumptuous and fresh bottle of Burgaud’s 1985 Côte Rôtie from my cellar, so I have no hesitation in recommending the 2019 for the cellar.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2023

Domaine Faury, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Emporium” 2019 ($110, Kermit Lynch):

The 2019 Faury Emporium Côte Rôtie is still available in some markets and is a powerful and delicious example of the classic Northern Rhône Syrah style. The Faury Emporium bottling comes from a single lieux dit and receives an extra year of aging compared to their standard Côte Rôtie. The Syrah grapes are co-fermented with a small percentage of Viognier that adds complexity to the wine. Deep ruby in color, the bouquet shows layers of black plum, blackberry and blackcurrant fruits backed by elements of sun-baked herbs, cured meats, smoke, olives, black pepper and violets. Full flavored, the 2019 Faury Emporium Côte Rôtie unfolds across the palate with layers of blackcurrant and blackberry fruits enhanced by smoky bacon tones, savory herbs, black olives and black peppery spice. Generous and approachable in its youth, it is a wine that will develop nicely over the next 10 to 15 years. It will be a delicious companion for grilled meats and autumnal stews.
94 Wayne Belding Nov 7, 2023

E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Brune et Blonde de Guigal” 2019 ($91, Vintus):

Côte Rôtie, or “roasted slope” transliterated into English, is composed of two major subdivisions, the Côte Brune and the Côte Blonde. Typically, the former imparts more power to the Syrah grown there because of the iron rich soil, while the latter is home to Syrah with more finesse, reflecting its limestone soil. Guigal, the largest owner and producer of Côte Rôtie — and in my estimation, the best — uses grapes from both slopes for this bottling. They also include a small amount — less than five percent — of Viognier with the Syrah which adds perfume and elegance. To me, Brune et Blonde de Guigal, rather than La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque, their single vineyard ones, is their flagship bottling and their best value. And you can find it because they make about 250,000 bottles of it annually. The gorgeous and youthful 2019 displays both the meaty smoky power and the refinement of Syrah. Despite its intensity, it is not overdone, but rather beautifully balanced with suave tannins and energy. Enjoy it now for its robust energy and black pepper-like spice or cellar it and watch it morph into a more gracious stage.
94 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2023

E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) La Mouline 2002 ($195): Marcel Guigal has almost singlehandedly put the Rhône Valley on the high-end wine map with his exquisite single-vineyard Côte Rôtie wines. If you yearn to taste arguably the world's finest expression of the Syrah grape variety, you must try a Guigal Côte Rôtie, preferably his La Mouline. Its aromas are beguiling: violets, raspberries, green olives, bacon, and underbrush. The wine needs at least five years of aging. The 2002 should be exquisite now. 94 Ed McCarthy Feb 5, 2008

Domaine Georges Vernay, Côte Rôtie (Rhone Valley, France) “Blonde du Seigneur” 2001 ($60, Petit Pois ): Behind a hit of new oak on the nose are youthful red berry fruits and a slight floral note. On the palate, full-bodied, very fresh and youthful, with good concentration of red fruit character that carries long on the palate. The wine combines traditional Côte Rôtie flavors such as a slight green olive note with more modern new oak and fruitiness. A very slight leathery note suggests the early stages of development, but the wine is sufficiently fruity to have a strong life ahead, ten-plus years. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 23, 2007

Domaine Georges Vernay, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) "Blonde du Seigneur" 2001 ($60, Petit Pois Corp.): Behind a hit of new oak on the nose are youthful red berry fruits and a slight floral note. On the palate, full-bodied, very fresh and youthful, with good concentration of red fruit character that carries long on the palate. The wine combines traditional Côte Rôtie flavors such as a slight green olive note with more modern new oak and fruitiness. A very slight leathery note suggests the early stages of development, but the wine is sufficiently fruity to have a strong life ahead, ten-plus years. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Feb 6, 2007

Domaine René Rostaing, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Ampodium” 2009 ($75, The Rare Wine Company): René Rostaing’s modest winery is a couple of lanes over from the legendary Château d’Ampuis within rock-tossing distance of the Rhone River. It’s his vineyards that make Rostaing a Rhône rock star. He acquired some of the best vineyard sites in the Cote-Rotie when his father-in-law and his uncle retired. If you have had the incredible fortune of having experienced a ethereal Gentaz-Dervieux Côte-Rôtie, the last

vintage of which was 1993, then you can appreciate the origin of some of his wonderful fruit. Ampodium is a blend from several vineyard sites. It is in a classic style showing savory, black pepper, herbal, violet aromas and flavors. The fruit on the palate is concentrated and intense, lifted by decisive acidity and beautiful fine-grained tannins. It is drinkable today, but will certainly become even more interesting over many years to come.
98 Rebecca Murphy Oct 2, 2012

Patrick Jasmin, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Oléa” 2016 ($120): Some of what follows about this wine is speculative, but please bear with me, as the wine is so good that a measure of uncertainty is merited. I’ve never tasted a “prestige” bottling of Côte Rôtie from Jasmin, and thus didn’t understand what was going on when the “regular” bottling started showing the proprietary name “La Giroflarie” not long ago. It seems that the regular wine needed that name to distinguish it from this wine when Jasmin evidently began releasing a higher-end bottling from his favorite barrels, a higher percentage of which are new for this wine. This looked like a finished wine when I tasted it in April of 2019, as it was wearing a capsule (but not a label). I’m assuming the name “Oléa” based on a tasting note of the 2015 by northern Rhône expert John Livingstone-Learmonth, whom I respect highly, as my sensory evaluation of the 2016 runs closely parallel to his note on the 2015. As for the price, well, my $120 is just a wild-ass guess. Regarding the wine itself, no guesswork is required, as it is a big bruiser with very impressive concentration and lots of spicy wood to match, with very intense perfume including floral notes, crushed black raspberries and cherries and faint suggestions of cocoa powder and campfire embers. Huge as it is, it remains internally balanced and harmonious. Patrick Jasmin resembles a rugby player…and a rather rough one at that, and consequently I’ve always thought it was a bit mysterious that his rendering of Côte-Rôtie was so sleek and restrained. With the discovery of this wine, that mystery has evaporated, but only to be replaced by the mystery of how one acquires a bottle of “Oléa.” I’ll follow up once I’ve learned the answer to that question, at which time my credit cards will likely be maxed out.
98 Michael Franz Aug 6, 2019

Chapoutier, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “La Mordorée” 2016 ($180):

Moderate in density but nearly overwhelming in complexity and expressiveness, this is the best vintage of this wine that I’ve ever tasted. Floral, fruity and savory all at once and all in balance, it shows amazing aromas and flavors recalling dried flowers, Asian spices, cured meat and wild mushrooms as accents to a juicy core of dark cherry and berry fruit. Insanely sexy wine that’s already getting rather short in supply, this should be bought soon if you can swing the price. To quote Yogi Berra, “it’s getting late early,” so pony up now or miss out.
97 Michael Franz Aug 6, 2019

Domaine Pierre Jean Villa, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Fongeant” 2016 ($105, Vintage ’59 Imports):

Sourced from a single lieu-dit near La Turque toward the top of the Côte Brune, this is a very different wine than Villa’s Côte-Rôtie “Carmina.” Visibly darker and physically denser, it is more “impressive” and less “elegant,” but this is a distinction that could easily be misunderstood. There’s very little overt oak in either wine, and this is all about the site rather than different treatment in the cellar. Despite this wine’s sheer size, it is equally remarkable for its purity and energy, which are virtues that become even more valuable in wines of striking concentration. Simply gorgeous, this will be hard to find, as only 2,000 cases are made, but it is definitely worth a search (and if a search doesn’t suffice, theft or murder are worth considering).
97 Michael Franz Aug 13, 2019

Delas, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “La Landonne” 2016 ($240):

Although I was disappointed by the performance of Delas’ “Seigneur di Maugiron” bottling of Côte-Rôtie from 2016, this top-of-the-line La Landonne bottling is fabulous. Raised in 40% new oak, it shows plenty of woodspice and vanilla, but these are accent notes that are easily overwhelmed by the dense, extremely expressive fruit. Black and blue fruits lead the way, with additional undertones of baking spices, carpaccio, cola, minerals and toast. It seems both pure and fresh despite its sheer size and a healthy dose of oak, which is a hallmark of the vintage. Gorgeous.
96 Michael Franz Aug 6, 2019

Domaine Georges Vernay, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Blonde du Seigneur” 2016 ($100):

A gorgeous, graceful wine, this doesn’t push too hard in any respect, but is so beautifully proportioned and complex that it comes off ultimately as effortlessly impressive. Wonderfully perfumed, this is really only medium-bodied, but that’s hardly a knock on the wine, which offers a host of expressive flavors with floral notes, tastefully ripe fruit, alluring spices and light toast all working to leave a fully satisfying impression at the end of a long finish. Complete and convincing in every respect.
96 Michael Franz Aug 20, 2019

Yves Cuilleron, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Lieu-Dit Bonnivière” 2017 ($80):

A couple of Cuilleron’s releases from Côte-Rôtie were “just” good in their 2017 renditions (“Bassenon” and “Madinière,” both checking in at 92 points), but this was fantastic, showing extremely expressive aromatics and then backing them up with concentrated fruit and plenty of spicy wood. A powerful wine that really lives up to the intense profile of the vintage, yet retains the magical charm of Côte-Rôtie on account of its lovely perfume and overall balance and proportionality. Powerful but still amazingly pure, this is a great accomplishment.
96 Michael Franz Aug 20, 2019

Domaine Patrick & Christophe Bonnefond, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Côte Rozier” 2017 ($70):

A terrific wine with impressive density and depth of flavor, this is a powerful wine with wood to match, yet it wears its oak effortlessly, and already seems to be absorbing it into the fruit. The “Le Rochains” bottling in this vintage is nearly as good in 2017, so don’t hesitate to try that if you can, but Côte Rozier is the pick of the litter in this amazing vintage.
95 Michael Franz Aug 20, 2019

Domaine Rosiers, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Besset” 2016 ($75):

This house makes three very good bottlings of Côte-Rôtie, and though you should not hesitate to buy any of the 2016’s, this is the clear pick of the litter above the Drevon and the Coeur de Rose in this vintage. Made entirely from Syrah, this single-site wine shows wonderful complexity with fruity and savory notes enhanced by lovely accents of flowers, spices and cola. Already terrific, this is easy to enjoy already, but is so beautifully balanced and proportional that it will surely retain all of its current charms while developing additional complexities in the years to come.
95 Michael Franz Aug 13, 2019

Guigal, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) 2005 ($70, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): There are many wines that claim to be ready to drink now, but will age beautifully. Few deliver on that promise. This is one of them. It has all

of the lovely peppery components that young Syrah delivers when grown in cooler climate, such as the Côte-Rôtie. But Guigal’s Brune et Blonde--so named because it’s a blend from vineyards on both parts, the Côte Brune and the Côte Blonde, of the Côte Rôtie--develops beautifully over decades. The prominent peppery component that is so engaging when young morphs into a leathery meaty quality with age. Quite lush now with just the right interplay of plumy fruit -like flavors with savory peppery notes, this wine provides immediate enjoyment because of the plush tannins that is one of Guigal’s signatures. Lovers of Rhône wines will want this one--one of Guigal’s best--in their cellar. 95 Michael Apstein Mar 9, 2010

Domaine Gilles Barge, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Côte Blonde” 2016 ($90):

I tasted three utterly different bottlings of Côte-Rôtie from this well-respected house’s 2016 lineup, including a quite gamy “Le Combard,” a woody but still balanced Côte Brune (probably Barge’s best-known wine) and this intricate, lovely Côte Blonde, which was my clear favorite. Why it was poured third in order wasn’t easy to understand on account of its modest size and much less pushy character by comparison to the other two, but the finish was so pure and detailed that I came to see the wisdom of saving the best for last, a full minute after it first passed my lips. Wonderfully fine juice, in a vintage that is all about fine-ness.
94 Michael Franz Aug 13, 2019

Jean-Luc Colombo, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “La Divine” 2011 ($90): I’ve tasted many of Colombo’s wines in most vintages for more than a decade, and I adore Côte-Rôtie (which along with great Burgundy is simply the world’s most sublime red wine, period). Nevertheless, I’ve never tasted this wine, though I’m damned sure glad to have put an end to that lamentable reality. The aromas are simply gorgeous even before the wine has attained an age at which it could offer up tertiary scents -- which is a testament to how good the fruit material was, and how judiciously it was oaked during the wine’s elevage. Lifted scents of violets and both red and black fruits are totally alluring, and the delicate flavors follow suit. Beautifully light and fresh for a wine from the (sometimes chunky) 2011 vintage, this just radiates elegance and class.
94 Michael Franz Mar 17, 2015

Patrick Jasmin, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “La Giroflarie” 2016 ($60):

Jasmin makes one of the most pure and stylish Syrahs from the famous appellation of Côte Rôtie in almost every vintage, and though the wines are always moderate in ripeness, extraction and oak, my direct experience shows that they age long and gracefully. On top of all that, they remain very reasonably priced, if not so easy to find. The 2016 is a very worthy successor to the delicious 2015, which I’m delighted to have sleeping in my cellar, though it is already delicious. So too is the 2016, which shows lovely aromas of dark berries, dried flowers, cola and damp earth, with just a bit of oak spice but still plenty of structure for what is certainly a rather “feminine” vintage in the northern Rhône.
94 Michael Franz Aug 6, 2019

Pierre Jean Villa, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Carmina” 2009 ($79, Vintage ’59 Imports): Pierre Jean Villa is an experienced vintner with a track record built in Burgundy and the Northern Rhône, though he started his own domaine as recently as 2009. He is quite obviously off to a flying start, as demonstrated by this very impressive wine. It shows impressive richness and depth of flavor, but these aren’t purchased at the price of excessive ripeness or heaviness. Dark berry fruit notes are accented by whiffs of toast and smoke as well as cured meat, and though the tannins are relatively round (as is generally the case with Northern Rhône Syrah in 2009), it will take 5 years for this wine to really integrate its oak and develop the tertiary aromas that will mark its maturity. When it reaches that point, it may very well merit a score even higher than the one that I’ve awarded here. 94 Michael Franz Nov 13, 2012

Domaine Pierre Jean Villa, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Carmina” 2016 ($85, Vintage ’59 Imports):

This young domaine is only a decade old, but the wines are very fine and entirely worth a search. This is the lighter of two excellent Côte-Rôtie bottlings, though “lighter” is certainly no knock on the wine, as Côte-Rôtie’s claim to worldwide greatness is all about complexity and grace (like Burgundy unlike Hermitage). Made from two plots of vines averaging roughly 60 and 10 years of age, 60% of this was made from whole clusters, though the grape and stem tannins are exceptionally well managed and there’s virtually no sensory evidence of stem tannins at all. The aromas are wonderfully expressive, with vivid floral notes giving way to very pure fruit scents. Medium-bodied, with fresh acidity and very pure fruit flavors firmed by ultra-fine tannins, this is a beauty that shows why Villa loves the vintage. When I first met him in April of 2017, long before this was bottled, he told me that 2016 would be extraordinary on account of a perfect end to the growing season. Moderate daytime heat, cool nights and no threat of rain meant that he could pick all of his plots exactly when he thought the grapes were optimally mature. His sense of optimal maturity has certainly borne out.
93 Michael Franz Aug 20, 2019

Guigal, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) "Brune et Blonde" 2007 ($72, Vintus): The Brune et Blonde designation indicates that the wine comes from grapes grown in a variety of parcels on the two major slopes of the appellation, the Côte Brune and the Côte Blonde, names that reflect the color of the soil. Despite the ripeness of the year, Guigal manages to capture the quintessential peppery quality for which the wines of the appellation are known. For such a powerful vintage, Guigal’s Brune et Blonde retains exciting freshness and amazing class. The balance of the 2007 suggests that it is another one of his Côte-Rôtie that will develop beautifully with bottle age. Should you opt to drink it now, try it with grilled meat. 93 Michael Apstein May 8, 2012

Pierre Gaillard, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) 2021 ($68, Dionysos Imports):

Domaine Pierre Gaillard is a relatively new producer in the Côte-Rôtie appellation. The Gaillard is a blend of 90% Syrah co-fermented with 10% Viognier. The Domaine was founded in 1986 with only 25 hectares of vines. In the glass, the wine glows a dark ruby black and is tantalizingly perfumed with aromas of blackberries, kirsch, cocoa powder, black olives, and wet violets. It is flavor-laden with abundant dark berry fruit, roasted meat, and smoke on the finish. This is the quintessential expression of Côte Rôtie – it’s delicious, sleek, and finessed with lustrous texture.
93 Miranda Franco Nov 14, 2023

Vidal-Fleury, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Brune et Blonde” 2005 ($74, W J Deutsch):

The popularity--and price--of Côte-Rôtie has skyrocketed recently. In 1971, the appellation consisted of only 140 acres and was shrinking. Currently it covers about 500 acres, divided principally between the steep slopes behind the town of Ampuis, named Côte Blonde and Côte Brune because of the sandy/limestone soil of the former and the iron containing clay soil of the latter. Vidal-Fleury, now owned by Guigal, Côte Rôtie’s most famous producer, combines grapes from both slopes for this glorious wine, a blend of Syrah (95%) and Viognier. It conveys both power, despite a stated alcohol of only 13%, and charm. Gentle waves of black fruit, black and white pepper, hints of bacon fat and smoke wash across the palate. I’m certain that cellaring will bring out more complexity, but it is so polished, approachable and full of flavor now, why wait. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2011

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône, France) 2007 ($72, Vineyard Brands): This wine is one of four releases from a new joint venture involving Nicolas Jaboulet and the Perrin family, famous for Chateau Beaucastel from Châteauneuf du Pape as well as other southern Rhône wines. It is very polished in texture, with fine-grained tannins and excellent integration of acidity and fruit. The wood is also very subtle, and the wine is impressively seamless for being so young. At this point it is not yet expressive enough in aroma or flavor to be truly outstanding, but the skillful craftsmanship with which it was clearly made bodes well for its future. 90 Michael Franz Sep 7, 2010

Domaine Merlin François, Côte-Rôtíe (Rhône Valley, France) 2017 ($60, Vineyard Road):

Domaine Merlin François’s 2017 Côte-Rôtie strikes a wonderful balance between brooding depth and elegance. Notes of blueberries, blackberries, and smoked meats wafts from the glass. In the mouth, the dark fruited flavors carry through, with sumptuous notes of tobacco and leather too. Despite the dark fruit and depth of this wine, it manages a relatively nimble mouthfeel with only 13% abv and silky smooth tannins. A great example of Côte-Rôtie that will pair well with dishes of the season, like stews and roasts.
92 John McDermott Dec 12, 2023

E. Guigal, Côtes de Rhône (France) 2018 ($15, Vintus Wines):

In spite of their inherent variability due to the variety of grapes, quality of grapes and finesse of the winemaker, a surprising number of Côtes de Rhône reds are more similar than not. They are my favorite comfort wine, almost always better than I anticipate when I pull the cork in delivering a fresh but savory fruit and a slightly gamey finish. E. Guigal is one of my favorites, and this one doesn’t leave me disappointed. It is not a great wine – that level of depth isn’t present – but its balance will ensure it will still be enjoyable five or ten years from now, although there is no reason other than serendipity to keep it that long. It is a rich and sturdy wine – almost, but not quite, burly – with great fruit and nice herbal/earthy notes, a tangy finish and crisp tannins. If I had a house wine, this one would be a leading contender.
91 Roger Morris Jul 19, 2022

La Vieille Ferme, Côtes de Ventoux (Rhône Valley, France) 2005 ($8, Vineyard Brands): As wines from the Côtes du Rhone appellation increase in price, producers look to less acclaimed nearby areas for similarly styled wines at lower prices. This wine from Côtes de Ventoux--simple but luscious--fits the bill as a satisfying Southern Rhône wine. Lighter and less spicy than a comparable Côtes du Rhone, it is a terrific everyday wine to accompany hamburgers. 86 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2007

Domaine d'Andezon, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) 2003 ($11, Polaner Selections): The '03 Domaine d'Andézon, 100 percent Syrah from 60- to 90-year-old vines, is voluptuous and concentrated, and for me the best value in this very fine group. It is concentrated and tight, with sweet, ripe, black fruit and herbal aromas and flavors, with a velvety texture. It is well knit, with lots of substance and personality. Remarkable buy! 92 Ed McCarthy Oct 23, 2005

Domaine du Bois de Saint-Jean, Cotes du Rhone (France) "Cuvee de Voulongue" Reserve 2003 ($18, LVDH): I've tasted a lot of wickedly good Cotes du Rhone bottlings from 2003, but this may be the best of all. The color is very dark for a Grenache-based wine, and the weight and texture speak unmistakably of very low yields and conscientious fruit selection. The winemaking is as solid as the raw materials, and the finished wine is packed with intense black and red cherry fruit, backed by loads of tannins that are ripe, rounded and all about balancing backbone rather than dryness. This is an object lesson in the fact that the Cotes du Rhone appellation holds some real gems made from vineyards falling outside of villages that are entitled to more particular designations. 92 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2005

Domaine André Brunel , Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) "Cuvee Sommelongue" 2003 ($12, Robert Kacher Selections): André Brunel has long been one of the top winemakers of Côtes du Rhône. The Sommelongue vineyard, Brunel's estate wine, is adjacent to Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards just north of the village of Orange. The '03 Cuvée Sommelongue, 85 percent Grenache and 15 percent Syrah, is made entirely in stainless steel tanks and is bottled unfiltered. It has lots of raspberry jam flavors, typical of Grenache-dominant Côtes du Rhônes, with ripe tannins and a balanced structure. An excellent wine, but unfortunately, only 1,300 cases were produced! 91 Ed McCarthy Oct 23, 2005

Ferraton Pere & Fils, Cotes du Rhone (Rhône Valley, France) “Samorëns” 2017 ($16, Sera Wine Imports):

I’m always impressed by Ferraton’s quality-for-your-cash ratio. Here’s another example: a Grenache-forward wine that delivers black cherry, soft vanilla and brown spice aromas and flavors, and a pepper note that comes forward in the finish without overwhelming the fruit and earth tones. Decant it well and serve with simply prepared meats of all types.
91 Rich Cook Feb 11, 2020

Saint Cosme, Cotes du Rhone (Rhône Valley, France) 2018 ($25):

What a beautiful bouquet! Blackberry, blueberry, orange zest and spice are deeply layered and concentrated. On the palate, the fruit joins a nice mix of oak toast and spice that are delivered in dry style with some white pepper coming forward. The finish is well integrated and will improve as the wood continues to fold in. With air the pepper is even bolder, which I like. I find that I’m never disappointed by this producer.
91 Rich Cook Feb 25, 2020

Domaine du Bois de Saint-Jean, Cotes du Rhone (France) 2003 ($12, LVDH): This is a deadly serious Cotes du Rhone, and if there were enough of it made, it would prove literally deadly to many of the bottlings that are available here. It shows the density and intensity of an estimable Gigondas or Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with very ripe fruit that is nevertheless not raisiny or pruny. It shows all the best elements of its breed, including a blend of red and black fruit notes, very subtle wood, soft tannins, a very faint earthiness, and wide versatility with food. Excellent! 90 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2005

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) "Les Abeilles" 2001 ($10, Palm Bay): Jean-Luc Colombo is one of the Rhône Valley's star producers. His Hermitage and Cornas wines are both outstanding. And for $10, you can buy his excellent Côtes du Rhône Les Abeillés (I tasted the '01, which you still might find, although the '03 is the currently available vintage). The '01 Les Abeillés (50 percent Grenache, 30 percent Syrah, and 20 percent Mourvèdre) is made from 25-year-old vines from a vineyard in the Gigondas-Cairanne area. It has aromas and flavors of ripe red raspberries with some spice and licorice notes, and good concentration. It has been aged in 20 percent new oak for nine months. Very pure, clean flavors. 90 Ed McCarthy Oct 25, 2005

Les Dauphins, Cotes du Rhone (France) Reserve 2013 ($13):

France's Rhone Valley, despite its popularity, continues to serve up value wines that over-deliver on quality for the price. The best bang for the buck wines are often found in the simple Cotes du Rhone AOC. Les Dauphins Reserve Cotes du Rhone is a delicious GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre) blend that delivers red fruit on the nose, with a spicy white pepper nuance on the palate, and a long, persistent finish. Do yourself a favor. Don't mess around with a bottle or two. Buy the whole case and enjoy the summer grilling season. 90 Robert Whitley Apr 21, 2015

Perrin & Fils, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley France) Reserve 2003 ($10, Vineyard Brands): You can never really go wrong buying a Perrin wine. The renowned producer of the great Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château de Beaucastel, produces excellent Côtes du Rhônes as well. Twenty-five percent of the '03 Perrin Réserve (60 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, and 20 percent Mourvèdre) has been aged in oak casks for 12 months. It has ripe, concentrated raspberry aromas and flavors, with a long finish. A really solid, excellent wine, and a great value! 90 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Delas Freres, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) "Saint-Espirit" 2003 ($8, Maisons, Marques & Domaines): What a fine wine for $8. This very dependable producer makes old-style Côtes du Rhônes in stainless steel tanks with no oak aging. The '03 Saint-Esprit (70 percent Syrah, 20 percent Grenache, 5 percent Mourvèdre and 5 percent Carignan) is ripe, peppery, and slightly pruney, with herbal notes. It has soft tannins, with a concentrated finish. 89 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Gilles Ferran, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) "Les Antimagnes" 2003 ($11, Martin-Scott Wines): How often can you find an $11 wine with 60-year-old vines? The '03 Ferran Les Antimagnes, with 70 percent Grenache (60 year-old vines) and 30 percent Syrah, is a complex, concentrated wine with ripe black cherry fruit flavors, firm tannins, and some herbal notes. 89 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Guigal, Cotes du Rhone (France) 2007 ($18): Guigal is the finest producer in the Rhone, making tiny quantities of iconic, single-vineyard, expensive (hundreds of dollars a bottle) Côte Rôtie, elegant Condrieu, and stunning Hermitage. I could go on and on. He also makes hundreds of thousands of cases of affordable red Côtes du Rhone. I am always impressed by a producer, such as Guigal, who can make large quantities of high quality affordable wines. Guigal’s 2007 Côtes du Rhone delivers a concentrated array of spice and black fruit notes packaged with a shell of polished tannins. Easy to drink now, it’s perfect for the grilling season when you need a robust red.
89 Michael Apstein May 1, 2012

Bouquet, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) Patrick Lesec Selections 2003 ($11, Stacole Fine Wines): Patrick Selec chooses wines from some of the best Southern Rhône growers who do not bottle their own wines. The '03 Bouquet, 80 percent Grenache (25-year-old vines) and 20 percent Syrah (12-year-old vines) has no oak aging, and has not been fined or filtered. It has aromas and flavors of raspberries, coffee, and leather, with soft, gentle tannins 88 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Chateau Mont Redon, Cotes du Rhone (France) 2004 ($14, Kobrand): Château Mont-Redon is one of the finest producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their Côtes du Rhône, made from a similar blend of grapes grown just outside of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape area, has a satisfying combination of spice and fruit with enough structure to make perfect with hearty winter fare. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 28, 2006

Domaine de la Solitude, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) 2003 ($10, Langdon Shiverick Imports): Domaine de la Solitude's 2003 (60 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, 15 percent Cinsault and 5 percent Mourvèdre) is a solid Côtes du Rhône and a fine buy. It is concentrated and firm, with ripe, red berry fruit. 88 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Domaine de l'Ameilllaud, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) "Petit Chapeau" 2003 ($11, Daniel Johnnes-Jeroboam Wines): The '03 Domaine de l'Ameillaud (65 percent Grenache, 15 percent Syrah, 15 percent Carignan, and 5 percent Mourvèdre) exhibits black fruit and spicy aromas and flavors, with firm tannins. It is drinking well now. 88 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

E. Guigal, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) 2003 ($10): Guigal, clearly the best Côte Rôtie producer, makes a standard but competent Côtes du Rhône. The '03 (50 percent Syrah, 30-40 percent Grenache, and 10-20 percent Mourvèdre) has been aged for 18 months in large oak barrels. It is rich and supple, with raspberry aromas 88 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Ferraton Pere & Fils, Cotes du Rhone (Rhône Valley, France) "Samorens" 2017 ($16):

The Cotes-du-Rhone category continues to provide some of the best values in red wine in the world. This beauty from Ferraton is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault that highlight the red fruit and soft tannins of the Grenache grape when grown in the south of France. The Syrah adds a bit of backbone, but overall this is a seriously fresh and easy drinking red that’s just as easy on the pocketbook.
88 Robert Whitley Feb 18, 2020

M. Chapoutier, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) "Belleruche" 2003 ($10, Paterno Wines International): Chapoutier's wines are always consistent in quality; his Hermitages are among the best Rhône reds made each year. The '03 Belleruche, 50 percent Grenache and 50 percent Syrah, has been partly aged in barriques. It has concentrated red and black fruit flavors, with a velvety texture. 88 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Moillard, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) "Les Violettes" 2004 ($9, USA Imports): Moillard, one of the largest Burgundy négociants, also produces large amounts of Rhône wines. The '04 Les Violettes, 48 percent Syrah and 48 percent Grenache, with 2 percent each of Mourvèdre and Cinsault, is a lively wine with fresh, black fruit flavors, some spice, and a just the right amount of tannin. A good value. 88 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Cotes du Rhone (France) 'Paralelle 45' 2007 ($13, Frederick Wildman & Sons):

With an increasing emphasis on value, Jaboulet's Parallele 45 is an ever more important wine for those who want as much quality as they can get for as few bucks as possible. This lovely value wine is typical of the southern Rhone -- a blend of Grenache and Syrah with Grenache playing the lead role. That means juicy red-fruited aromas and flavors with some of the spice and tannin of the Syrah. Easy drinking as an aperitif, but with enough body and complexity to tackle dishes such as coq au vin or savory roasts.

J. Vidal-Fleury, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) 2001 ($10, W. J. Deustch & Sons): The '01 Vidal-Fleury (50 percent Grenache, 30 percent Syrah, 10 percent Mourvèdre, and 10 percent Cinsault and Carignan)has ripe, plummy aromas, with baked fruit and herbal flavors, and soft tannins. 87 Ed McCarthy Oct 25, 2005

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Cotes du Rhone (Rhone Valley, France) "Parallele 45" 2003 ($9, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The '03 Parallèle "45", 85 percent Grenache and 15 percent Syrah, is a well-made Côtes du Rhône, with earthy, herbal and leather aromas and flavors. 87 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Pére & Fils, Cotes Du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Samorens” 2014 ($14, HB Wine Merchants): Decant this value wine for a pleasant surprise. This Grenache-driven blend is all about lively red fruit, with notes of blueberry, leaf, white pepper and brown spice. Racy acidity carries all the elements well, with moderate grip extending the finish and bringing some sweet oak spice forward. It needs the air time -- give it an hour or two. Duck Confit -- yes, please!
90 Rich Cook Nov 1, 2016

Delas, Cotes du Rhône (France) 2003 ($12, Maisons Marques & Domaines): All the Delas wines have improved vastly in the past couple of years, and though the nasty weather conditions of 2002 prevented this wine from excelling in that year, it was still one of the best wines of that vintage. 2003 was vastly more favorable, and that shows very clearly in this bottling, with lovely ripe fruit showing juicy cherry fruit that is deep and ripe but still fresh and very, very pretty. All the structural components are well balanced and integrated, and this performs very well for casual sipping or for pairing with almost any moderately robust fare. 88 Michael Franz Jan 17, 2006

Tardieu-Laurent, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Becs Fins" 2017 ($23, Europvin USA):

I would love to meet Michel Tardieu based on the descriptions in the company website. The prose is intensely romantic, but light on details. Despite a careful search, it was hard to find verifiable details about much of the history of the company. The name comes from the original partners Michel Tardieu from the Rhône Valley and Dominique Laurent from Burgundy. Together, they created a négociant business in the Rhône Valley. As négociants, they don’t grow grapes but work with growers who supply the grapes. Although they are no longer partners Tardieu retained the company name. Actually, the origin story doesn’t really matter because I loved this wine. It turned out that 2017 was a challenging vintage, but the grapes that made it to harvest were of good quality. The resulting wine is 60 percent Syrah and 40 percent Grenache with a perfect balance of Syrah’s power and structure, and Grenache’s generous, strawberry fruit. Or, as stated on their website, “This, by the grace of Old Grenache, which brought to the highest level the singular personality of the real Rhône Wine.” (See what I mean about the prose?) The wine spent ten months in concrete tanks and saw no oak. It is a delicious wine, fruity, spicy, savory, balanced and well structured.
94 Rebecca Murphy Oct 15, 2019

Château Rayas, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “La Pialade Rouge” 2006 ($34, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): Château Rayas is on everybody’s short list of the top producers in the southern Rhône. They are best known for their exquisite Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but you can get a glimmer of their grandeur with this Côtes du Rhône. Certainly one of the most expensive wines from that appellation, it is also one of the most expressive and substantial ones. It’s a beautifully balanced flavor array of spice, herbs and red fruits. Not an overdone fruit bomb, it has complexity and length, which explains why it’s a terrific wine. Instead of thinking of it as an expensive Côtes du Rhône, think of it as a bargain Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010

Alain Jaume, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Grand Veneur” Reserve, Rouge 2016 ($15, Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd):

Rich and complex, this generously flavored ruby red wine delivers a mix of red and black berry flavors highlighted by touches of spice. The finish is smooth, with silky tannins and a touch of fennel. Alan Jaume’s vineyard soils are treated with vegetal compost and the grapes are hand-harvested. Drink this tasty red blend now or cellar it for a few years. Comprised of Grenache Noir, Syrah and Cinsault.
92 Marguerite Thomas Apr 30, 2019

Anne Delaroche, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rouge 2016 ($16, J & D Selections):

A blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Carignan, this mellow red wine from the Southern Rhône region has a lot going for it, including plenty of savory red fruit flavors and a smooth texture. The grapes come from mature vines, some of them 30 years old. This versatile wine adapts easily to many different foods, from poultry to meats to hearty pasta dishes.
92 Marguerite Thomas Dec 17, 2019

La Bastide Saint Dominique, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Jules Rochebonne” 2011 ($20, Simon N Cellars): This special bottling will cost half again as much as La Bastide Saint

Dominique’s regular bottling of Côtes du Rhône, which is also quite good, but in my opinion this wine is well worth the additional charge. In terms of weight, refinement, and sheer flavor impact, it is actually much more comparable to an excellent Gigondas than a Côtes du Rhône. A blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache, it shows excellent depth and plenty of muscle, but there’s no hardness or astringency, so you could either enjoy this now or lay it away for a few years to layer on some additional aromatic complexity 92 Michael Franz Oct 15, 2013

Saint Cosme, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2017 ($16, The Winebow Group):

A stellar wine that is both fresh and complex, St. Cosme offers intense, concentrated aromas and typical Syrah flavors that suggest black pepper and spice. The Barruol family has been making wine here in the heart of Gigondas since 1490. Remarkably versatile at the table, this is a wine to accompany tomato-based pasta dishes, game, or beef (I recently enjoyed it with beef tartare).
92 Marguerite Thomas Nov 6, 2018

Domaine Berthet-Rayne, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2016 ($14):

The 2016 wines from the various Côtes du Rhône appellations are the best since 2010, and one would need to go back for quite a few years to find another vintage at this level. This shows red fruit flavors with hints of black licorice and thyme.
91 Michael Franz May 1, 2018

Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2021 ($25, Kysela Pere et Fils):

The quality of wines labeled Côtes du Rhône is as vast as the appellation, which is to say, vast. So, what differentiates one from another? The producer, of course. And Domaine de la Mordorée is one of the best, not only of Côtes du Rhône, but of other Rhône Valley appellations as well. This delightful red Côtes du Rhône, a blend of the usual Mediterranean suspects — Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault — is head and shoulders above what is frequently found in this appellation. Abundant and alluring herbal and savory non-fruit flavors complement the fresh red fruit ones. Mild polished tannins lend support without interfering. In short, it’s a delight. My advice: stock up for the fast-approaching summer grilling season.
91 Michael Apstein May 2, 2023

Domaine les Hautes Cances, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Tradition” 2010 ($17, Vintage ‘59 Imports):

I try to steer clear from grandiose statements, but the 2010 vintage wines from the Côtes du Rhône are certainly the best in a generation, and this one is particularly strong. It shows medium body, deep and persistent flavors, and a balanced and focused profile that will enable it to work well with almost anything from a roasted chicken to braised lamb. Fruity but not obvious, with interesting undertones of leather and spices, this is a lovely, layered wine that is far more complex than its price tag suggests.
91 Michael Franz Dec 31, 2013

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône ( Rhône Valley, France) 2011 ($15, Vintus):

A whiff of smoke, a dash of mixed herbs (especially fennel), and plenty of ripe plum and cherry notes all add up to a truly tasty wine. Deliciously soft and juicy, it evolves into a satisfyingly firm and lengthy finish. It’s hard to think of another red wine at this price that is anywhere near as satisfying. 91 Marguerite Thomas Oct 18, 2016

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($16, Ex Cellars Wine Agency):

Very easy to appreciate and indeed dangerous in its gulp-ability, this is nevertheless a surprisingly complex and serious wine if one takes a moment to look past its initial charms (which are considerable). The fruit recalls red and black cherries but there are also berry notes, and again, red and black tones are both apparent. The texture is soft and the overt oak is quite minimal, but there’s a nice spicy edge to the wine and enough tannin and subtle secondary aroma (fresh meat and wild mushroom) to provide real complexity and interest. All in all, a bloody impressive wine, and an exceedingly useful one. 91 Michael Franz Jan 18, 2011

Famille Perrin, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Nature” 2019 ($15, Vineyard Brands): The “Nature” line of wines — both white and red, made from organic grapes — from the Perrin family have been remarkably impressive since their debut. The supply is (or was, anyway) relatively limited, so I haven’t been able to work with them in my restaurant consulting capacity, but they offer phenomenal

quality and value for retail buyers. This 2019 red bears no visual resemblance to a Côtes du Rhône, looking far more like a Gigondas from a top vintage like 2010, and that is high praise indeed. In terms of sheer density and depth of flavor, appearances do not deceive…this thing packs real punch, though just as impressively, it shows no roughness from overly aggressive maceration, and the grape tannins are very fine with no evident wood tannins at all. To be sure, this is all about primary fruit that is still undomesticated by time in bottle, but if you want a wine that offers big-time fruit and does so flawlessly, this is the ticket. It offers the concentration and flavor impact of Zinfandel or Malbec with the textural polish of New World Pinot, which makes me wonder…can I buy stock in this?
91 Michael Franz Jan 12, 2021

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2013 ($16, Vintus):

Collectors and conoisseurs know of Guigla’s “La La’s”, as they are called -- his tiny production, single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque -- that sell for hundreds of dollars upon release. Though I adore those wines, I admire Guigal because he makes large quantities of high quality “basic” Côtes du Rhône that are affordable. Indeed, if you are looking for an under $20 “go-to” red wine for everyday drinking, I can’t think of a better one. The 2013, just on the market, makes for a fascinating comparison with the 2012, which is still widely available. The 2013 Guigal Côtes du Rhône has a racy, earthy edge to its moderate weight. With fine tannins, this wine is a joy to drink with simple summertime grilled fare.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 22, 2017

Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Abeilles” 2017 ($13, Taub Family Selections):

Jean-Luc Colombo is a star producer in the Northern Rhône appellation of Cornas. Many credit him as a locomotive for that appellation, pulling it onto the world’s stage. It turns out that he also makes a stylish, bargain-priced Côtes du Rhône. His “Les Abeilles” (the bees) is both fruity and spicy with good power without being overdone. A blend of Grenache (60%), Syrah (30%) and Mourvèdre, it is far more polished than you’d expect for a wine from this appellation. It’s a super value. Buy it by the case for this summer’s casual drinking with hamburgers from the grill.
91 Michael Apstein May 26, 2020

La Bastide Saint Dominique, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($14, Simon N Cellars): I have next-to-no experience with this producer, but we are off to a very good start thanks to two standout 2012 Côtes du Rhône bottlings--not to mention the fact that the achieved results were equally strong with the Blanc as the Rouge. This delicious red shows an alluring earthiness and rusticity that never shades over into anything that could be mistaken for an overly rustic flaw, and the pure red fruit notes that follow the initial aromas show the wine’s purity and pedigree. Young bottlings of Côtes du Rhône often need time in bottle to show complexity, but this one has already arrived, and will be great right now with lighter grilled meats. 91 Michael Franz Aug 13, 2013

Oriel, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Courant 2003 ($14, Oriel Wines): The torrid 2003 growing season was lousy for some regions and fantastic for others, but nowhere was it better than in the southern Rhône Valley. Within the southern Rhône, the appellation that benefited most was the entry-level Côtes du Rhône. With this context in place, you'll know that I'm really saying something when judging this the single best 2003 Côtes du Rhône I have tasted. It features very deeply pigmented color, an explosively expressive bouquet, great concentration and depth of flavor, and excellent complexity. Grenache got so beautifully ripe in 2003 that it dominates many Côtes du Rhône bottlings with gushy red cherry fruit, but this wine balances those notes (which are indeed present) with dark cherry and berry notes that make this much more interesting than the average rendition. Oak is mercifully light, enabling all the gorgeous fruit to stay where it belongs-at centerstage. 91 Michael Franz Dec 26, 2006

Domaine Berthet-Rayne, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône, France) 2005 ($12, Elite Imports): This is a delicious and very fairly-priced Côtes-du-Rhône, with plenty of bright red berry fruit, but even more important, genuine southern French character, meaning underlying aromas and flavors of dried herbs, pepper, leather, and more. The wine is delicious now, and should drink well for two or three more years, so is well worth buying by the case. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2007

Domaine Berthet-Rayne, Côtes du Rhône (France) 2015 ($12, Elite):

Broad and deep, with lively flavors dominated by dark fruit and dry herbs, this is an impressively structured medium-to-full bodied wine. Reasonably priced, it’s the perfect red to serve with casual fare such as burgers or pizza, but it will also show well with a simple steak or pork chop.
90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 10, 2017

Domaine du Bois de Saint Jean, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Intrépide” 2009 ($13, Vignobles LVDH): This is a delicious, admirably affordable Côtes du Rhône from an excellent

producer that is crafted is a ripe, boldly-flavored style. Blended from 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault, it is soft and rich with almost no perceptible oak. Faintly earthy but nevertheless powerfully fruity, it will be particularly successfully with grilled sausages or lightly spicy meat dishes. 90 Michael Franz Nov 8, 2011

Domaine Olivier Hillaire, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Vielles Vignes” 2006 ($15, Wines of France/Alain Junguenet Selection): A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, this Côtes du Rhône has exceptional polish and grace to complement its bright red fruit flavors. Its length and density belies its lowly appellation. Don't miss it. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2008

Domaine Rouge Garance, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Feuille de Garance” 2011 ($15, Vintage ‘59): An excellent Côtes du Rhône made predominantly from Grenache but given some extra depth and guts from Syrah and a little Cinsault, this is a very strong value. Red cherry and berry flavors also shows a black fruit streak, and excellent integration of acidity and tannin make this a wine that can perform very well as a stand-alone sipper but also as a partner for a wide range of foods. This should be particularly good with grilled white meats. 90 Michael Franz Jul 9, 2013

Domaine Saint Gayan, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Trescartes” 2016 ($15, Europvin USA):

Domaine Saint Gayan, known for their Gigondas, also makes a notable Côtes du Rhône from grapes grown in the neighboring villages of Seguret and Sablet, two of the named villages of the more prestigious Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation, according to their website. In keeping with the source of the grapes, the wine is a cut above the usual Côtes du Rhône, exhibiting more character than many. Though from the usual Mediterranean blend of Grenache (75%), Syrah (20%) and Mourvèdre, it is not a usual wine. Fresh and juicy, it has a spice that gives it a charming edginess. It’s another great choice for the grilling season.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 30, 2020

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($18, Vintus):

Guigal’s single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque, which sell for hundreds of dollars upon release and are highly allocated, bring fame to that firm. In my mind, what makes Guigal a famed producer is this wine, their consistently excellent and well-priced Côtes du Rhône. Guigal produces roughly four million bottles of it annually, compared to four thousand bottles of La Mouline. It’s a real challenge to make four million bottles of high-quality wine. Guigal does it every year. The 2020 version of this “go-to” mid-weight red, a blend of Syrah (50%), Grenache (40%), and Mourvèdre, delivers spice, dark fruit, and a touch of meatiness, all wrapped in mild tannins. It’s a fine choice for hearty fall and winter fare. That said, I’ve had many of Guigal’s “simple” Côtes du Rhône with a few years of bottle age that have developed surprising complexity, so there’s no problem if you buy a case and forget about a few bottles in your cellar or storage space.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2023

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($16, Vintus Wines):

To me, the mark of a great producer lies in their least expensive wine. Of course, Guigal is rightly known for their mind-boggling La La’s, small single-vineyard wines, La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque, from the Côte Rôtie, whose approximate 20,000-bottle combined annual production is highly allocated and sells for hundreds of dollars a bottle. By contrast, they produce about 4.5 million bottles of consistently excellent and affordable red Côtes du Rhône. The 2019 follows their tradition of delivering more than the price suggests. A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône displays a polished smoothness enveloping dark fruit accented by black pepper notes. It is a broad-shouldered red with a glossy texture than makes it an ideal choice this summer for meat from the grill.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2023

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2011 ($14, Vintus): Guigal, more than anyone, is responsible for catapulting Rhône wines from a cult following in the 1980s to their now extraordinary widespread popularity. Guigal is, of course, famous for their single vineyard bottlings of Côte Rôtie wines, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque, which now are highly allocated and sell for hundreds of dollars a bottle upon release. (To put the rocket-like rise of popularity of Rhone wines into perspective, La Mouline and La Landonne sold for less than $20 a bottle in the early 1980s.) For me, what’s most amazing about Guigal is how they consistently produce such a high quality bargain-priced lowly Côtes du Rhône. There’s nothing complicated about Guigal’s 2011. This mid-weight wine is just a perfect mix of spicy, meaty and fruity flavors that delivers far more enjoyment than the price suggests. Buy a case for grilling burgers this summer. I just did.
90 Michael Apstein May 5, 2015

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($16, Vintus):

If there is a more enjoyable red wine at this price, I’d like to know about it. Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône is always an excellent value and the 2012 is no exception. It’s riper and a touch fruitier than the racier 2013, which is also on the market. Which to choose? Frankly, I’d stock up with both the 2013 and the 2012 if you can find them both. Although ready to drink, my experience with these wines is that they evolve and are even better after a few years of bottle age, so there’s no rush. Guigal’s 2012 Côtes du Rhône is the perfect wine for burgers or grilled meat at your end of summer BBQ.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 22, 2017

Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône (France) "Les Abeilles" Rouge 2016 ($14, Palm Bay International):

This is a wine that is all about Southern France. With is dark purple hue, its sensory attributes of fruit, spice and hints of anise, its complex but absolutely accessible flavors and its silky-smooth texture, “Les Abeilles” is easy to love. The grapes -- Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre -- are grown in ancient terraced vineyards, where all the work is done manually, without pesticides or irrigation.
90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 28, 2018

Les Dauphins, Côtes du Rhône (France) Reserve 2013 ($13, Plume Ridge):

I'm always amazed when a wine takes the trip across the pond, and then across the country, and still manages to deliver great quality for under fifteen dollars. Doesn't the fuel to get it here cost almost that much? I jest, of course, but there's nothing funny about this value leader. Classic white pepper, black and blueberry, soft spice and added notes of leaf and tar entice your nose, then flood your palate with full translation of aromas to flavors. Food friendly acidity and moderate 13% alcohol make this a wine for a wide array of dining partners -- I'd go for a simple seared sirloin or an herbaceous chicken recipe. Contains 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre.
90 Rich Cook May 5, 2015

Grand Veneur, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Réserve 2005 ($12, Kysela): Displaying the classic southern Rhône attributes of red fruit supported by spicy, peppery aromas and flavors, this blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (20%), and Cinsault (10%) provides lots of bang for not many bucks. Medium-weight, it should provide good warm weather drinking in the months ahead, and even can be served slightly chilled. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 27, 2007

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2004 ($12, ExCellars): Marcel Guigal and his son, Philippe, oversee the winemaking at this stellar firm, which was started by Marcel's father, Etienne, just after World War II. Guigal is probably best known for their small-production--300 case--expensive ($200+ a bottle) single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque. But what I find even more extraordinary is the vast amount (250,000 cases) of excellent, affordable Côtes du Rhône they produce year in and year out. It's rare for a winery to produce that volume of excellent wine every year. Guigal's 2004 Côte du Rhône is more fruit forward than usual, reflecting the character of the vintage, but still retains good structure and the signature spice of the Rhône Valley. It's a great value that you shouldn't miss. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007

Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Abeilles” 2009 ($12, Palm Bay International):

Colombo is a star producer in Cornas, a small appellation in the Northern Rhône. His Côtes du Rhône, dubbed Les Abeilles (the bees) is always a winner as well. With equal parts Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, the 2009 is no exception. He manages to combine fruity and spicy--even a few peppery notes--seamlessly in this mid-weighted wine without one aspect dominating. It’s a classy wine delivering more complexity than you’d expect from a Côtes du Rhône. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

La Petite Fontaine, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2010 ($12, Pasternak Wine Imports):

Remember when Côtes du Rhône was a go-to appellation for easy to drink because softly textured red wine? The wines were earthy and spicy, with a rustic note that only added to their charm. Far too many renditions today taste heavy-handed, and lack distinction. But here’s a tasty reminder of what the region used to do so well, and surely still can. It has smoky black fruit flavor, peppery undertones, and a lush softness on the palate. A wine to enjoy, not treasure, it provides lots of pleasure for very little money.
89 Paul Lukacs Apr 28, 2015

Laudun Chusclan Vignerons, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Esprit du Rhône” 2015 ($17, Quintessential):

Laudun and Chusclan are two villages, practically adjacent to one another, on the right bank of the Rhône, across the river from Orange and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Although both villages are included in the umbrella appellation of Côte du Rhône-Villages, the members of the very good co-operative there, Laudun Chusclan Vignerons, also make straight Côtes du Rhône from vineyards that lie outside the strict borders of the two villages. Comprised of the usual Mediterranean blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Cinsault, it has good density and an herbal, peppery component that gives it an appealing “not just fruit” character. This mid-weight wine is satisfying now and goes right into my “wine with roast chicken” category. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2017

M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Belleruche” 2021 ($15, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

Chapoutier is one of the top producers in the Rhône, so it’s no surprise that this mid-weight red Côtes du Rhône of theirs is easy to recommend. It displays a balanced and marvelous mixture of black and red fruits, offset by herbal elements that lend a savory touch. Mild tannins lend support but are hardly noticeable and certainly don’t detract from its suave texture. Given its price and overall ready-to-drink profile, it’s a good choice for large or even small groups feasting on grilled food this summer. Wedding caterers would be wise to stock this widely available crowd-pleaser as opposed to much of the insipid stuff they usually serve.
89 Michael Apstein Jul 18, 2023

Domaine Brusset, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Laurent B.” 2012 ($14, Simon N Cellars):

A solid, gutsy Côtes du Rhône, this shows nice red fruit aromas that lead into medium-bodied flavors of dried red cherries and red berries, with some dark berry backnotes. Any wood influence is so restrained as to be almost imperceptible, so this is all about fruit aside from a mineral tinge in the finish. Very well suited to summer sipping with a light chill, this will also complement a wide range of dishes, but especially lighter grilled meats prepared with a spicy rub. 88 Michael Franz Aug 13, 2013

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2006 ($15, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): This wine remains my benchmark for red Cotes du Rhone. I am

continually impressed by Guigal’s ability to make 250,000 cases of this high-quality wine year in and year out. Of course, he is a great producer. His single vineyard Côte Rôtie--La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque--are stunning, but he makes only about 300 cases of each. And you could buy almost two cases of this Côtes du Rhône for the price of a single bottle of one of those wines. His 2006 Côtes du Rhône is a hearty wine, as you’d expect from the usual blend of Mediterranean grapes, but not overblown. Its classy combination of black fruit flavors and herbal spicy notes makes it a good choice for everyday drinking. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 30, 2010

Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Grandes Vignes” 2016 ($15, Jenny & François Selections):

I know this producer, a co-operative, well, having rented a summer vacation house fifteen minutes down the road every year for a decade. They have many bottlings and many labels, but one thing that is constant is the quality of their wines and the value they deliver. Take this straightforward Côte du Rhône. Made exclusively from Cinsault, it’s both earthy and fruity with suave tannins. Refined and smooth, especially for a Côte du Rhône, it could be chilled for summertime sipping. This mid-weight red is perfect for pizza or roast chicken. It’s a tremendous value. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2017

M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Belleruche” 2008 ($14, Terlato Wines International): A very appealing, juicy little wine with Grenache-based flavors of red cherries and wild strawberries, along with a backnote recalling plums and just a little spice around the edges. Light to medium-bodied, this is full of fun and suited to all sorts of foods, but especially white meats like pork or veal. 88 Michael Franz Jan 18, 2011

Perrin et Fils, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve 2005 ($11, Vineyard Brands): In addition to owning Château Beaucastel, one of the best properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Perrin family runs a top-notch négociant business buying grapes or wine from growers with whom they have long term relationships. The Perrin Reserve Côtes du Rhône--always reliable--is even better in the 2005 vintage. A peppery component and supple tannins make this a substantial wine with good intensity and balance. A fine wine at a fine price. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2007

Chateau Mont-Redon, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2004 ($14, Kobrand): Very nice, if a bit simple, with terrific cherry notes from Grenache and a nice little spice kick; good acidity (better than most 2003s), but still quite nicely ripe and generous. Classic in style, with a nice blend of juicy, flirtatious Grenache accented with lightly spicy, earthy notes. 87 Michael Franz Nov 7, 2006

Les Dauphins, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Réserve 2013 ($11, Monsieur Touton Selections): Côtes du Rhône, a vast appellation in the southern Rhone Valley, produces both well priced satisfying red wines and mediocre ones. This one, in the former category, shows why the appellation remains so popular. A “bistro wine” at its best, it’s refreshing, fruity and slightly spicy, but not heavy. The tannins are so minimal you can chill it without bringing out astringency, yet they add just the right amount of structure. (Remember it for next summer when you’re grilling burgers.) For now, it’s a tremendous value that will be perfect this winter with a pizza or a coq au vin.
87 Michael Apstein Oct 27, 2015

Layer Cake, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône, France) 2006 ($16, Vintage Point): If you are looking for a solid red Côtes du Rhône that offers up lots of juicy, fruity, Grenache-based fun but also some guts and grip, this wine will do the trick. With very tasty fruit recalling fresh red and black cherries at its core and just a hint of spice around the edges, this gets off to an endearingly soft start, but then firms up with a little fine-grained tannin that provides definition to the finish. 86 Michael Franz Jun 17, 2008

Espirit du Rhone, Cotes du Rhone AOC (France) 2013 ($12): Cotes du Rhone has long been among the most undervalued wines on the planet, and I offer this beauty from Espirit du Rhone as evidence. At $12, this blend of grenache, syrah, carignan and cinsault could be my house wine for as long as the supply lasts. Bright and succulent, it shows delicious red-fruit aromas with hints of spice and savory herbs, with modest tannins. It's easy to drink and easy on the wallet.
88 Robert Whitley Dec 9, 2014

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) 2018 ($17, Vintus Wines):

Guigal’s 2018 Côtes du Rhône Rouge offers fantastic quality for the price. With 50% Syrah (along with 40% Grenache, and 10% Mourvèdre), it offers more structure and complexity than many Côtes du Rhône wines at comparable price points. Aromas of black pepper and smoked meat give way to a luscious undercurrent of blackberry and rhubarb. The palate unfolds with a pleasant richness of black fruit and a hint of spice, complemented by chewy tannins and well-integrated alcohol. The acidity, while not bracing, provides just enough lift to keep everything feeling fresh and balanced. Fire up the grill and bring this wine to your next barbecue this summer.
91 John McDermott Aug 15, 2023

Rue de Perle, Cotes du Rhone Villages (France) 2013 ($11):

Cotes du Rhone Villages, generally a step up in quality from the broader Cotes du Rhone designation, is one of the greatest values in red wine anywhere in the world. The Rue de Perle is a peppery, spicy example. This luscious Rhone Valley red offers sweet red-fruit aromas, good balance and is firmly structured. Beautiful for the price. Platinum award winner at the 2015 San Diego International Wine Competition.
91 Robert Whitley Jan 20, 2015

Domaine Santa Duc, Cotes du Rhone Villages (Rhone Valley, France) "Les Vieilles Vignes" 2001 ($13, Robert Kacher Selections): Domaine Santa Duc is renowned for its Gigondas, but also makes a super Côtes du Rhône Villages. The '01 Les Vieilles Vignes (70 percent Grenache, 25 percent Syrah and 5 percent Mourvèdre) is dry, very ripe and concentrated, with a velvety texture. It has been made with no oak aging and no de-stemming, and is unfiltered. A very impressive wine! 90 Ed McCarthy Oct 25, 2005

Domaine Andre Brunel, Cotes du Rhone Villages (Rhone Valley, France) "Cuvee Sabrine" 2003 ($11, Robert Kacher Selections): If you're looking for a reliable "can't miss" wine, choose an André Brunel Côtes du Rhône. The '03 Cuvée Sabrine (75 percent Grenache from 40-year-old vines and 25 percent Syrah from 30-year-old vines) is a complex, traditionally-styled wine with raspberry fruit flavors and peppery notes. 89 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Domaine de la Renjarde, Cotes du Rhone Villages (Rhone Valley, France) 2003 ($13, Serge Dore Selections): The '03 Domaine de la Renjarde, mainly Grenache, is a big, full-bodied wine that exhibits black raspberry fruit flavors with some coffee and leather notes. This Côtes du Rhône will age nicely for several years. 89 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Domaine la Montagnette, Cotes du Rhone Villages (Rhone Valley, France) 2003 ($11, Daniel Johnnes-Jeroboam Wines): The '03 Domaine la Montagnette, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre, is a concentrated, intensely flavored wine that exhibits lots of ripe raspberry fruit. 88 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Bieler Père & Fils, Côtes du Rhône Villages (France) “La Jassine” 2016 ($14):

La Jassine is dark, dense and rich without being at all heavy. Notes of plum and blackberry dominate the flavors, with hints of licorice lingering in the background. This beautifully textured red blend, comprised of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, also rewards with a long finish. The price for this delicious wine is beyond reasonable.
91 Marguerite Thomas Feb 12, 2019

Cuvée du Vatican, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2009 ($17, Wines of France): It’s been a long time since I have enjoyed a more satisfying red Côtes du Rhône Villages. The wine offers all the intriguing complexity that distinguishes the finest southern Rhône reds, being filled with flavors that echo savory spices, as well as dried herbs and flowers, in addition to fresh, juicy fruit. Deliciously long on the palate, it resembles a first class Châteauneuf, at less than half the price. 91 Paul Lukacs Aug 16, 2011

Camille Cayran, Côtes Du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) ”Bête à Bon Dieu” 2020 ($16):

It is hard to keep track of the numerous Rhône wines offered under this brand, made in a co-op cellar formed in 1929. The co-op is home to 65 winemakers farming over 500 ha in the Rhône. But this 2020 caught my attention. ”Bête à Bon Dieu” is made from certified organic vineyards, and is a blend of 60% Grenache and equal parts of Syrah and Carignane. The nose displays spiced cherry and plum fruit and the flavors center on black cherry with a touch of dried herbs and anise. Medium bodied with refined tannins, this is a pleasantly textured, elegant and easy to enjoy red. Enjoy now to 2026.
90 Norm Roby Jan 3, 2023

Famille Perrin, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2018 ($15, Vineyard Brands): For more than a generation, stretching all the way back to the late 1980s, the go-to wine for very good Côtes du Rhône was Guigal. The offerings from Jaboulet or Chapoutier have never really measured up, and though Chapoutier is getting closer, this negociant offering from the Perrin family (famous for

Château Beaucastel and distinctive from the others on grounds of being based in the south) is now arguably the best of the lot. The Guigal version is quite late in being released, vintage wise, which has the virtue of making it a bit more complex aromatically, but often not as fresh and versatile with food as this wine, which excels in both respects. The 2018 is lovely, with very pure fruit notes recalling pie cherries and red raspberries above all, indicating the predominance of Grenache in the blend. There’s not the slightest hint of over-ripeness here, nor any heaviness, not any rough tannins or overt wood, making this a great year-round sipping wine but also one suited to all sorts of foods — bird, beast or fish — including spicy preparations. This is not a bowl-you-over wine (Perrin’s “Nature” bottling can serve that purpose), but rather one that is very precise and…again, pure.
90 Michael Franz Jan 12, 2021

Famille Perrin, Côtes du Rhône Villages (France) 2011 ($15, Vineyard Brands):

Showing characteristically earthy undertones, this medium-weight red is very true to type. It offers deep but supple fruit flavor coupled with echoes of dried herbs and, yes, something vaguely resembling a barnyard. Deeper and fuller than many Côtes du Rhônes, it has the stuffing to age gracefully for the next four or five years.
90 Paul Lukacs Jun 10, 2014

Perrin & Fils, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($15, Vineyard Brands): I cannot remember a better vintage of this wine. Rich and deeply flavored but still fresh and full of fun, this shows lots of juicy, expressive fruit. Grenache clearly leads the way, as red and black cherry notes are predominant. Although the wine is quite deeply flavored and is likewise admirably concentrated, the freshness rides tandem with the ripeness all the way through the finish. 90 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2009

Feraud-Brunel, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($15, Martine’s Wines): You’d be hard pressed to find a more promising partnership in the

southern Rhone. This négociant firm, founded in 1998, is a partnership of two of the very best producers in Châteauneuf du Pape, Laurence Feraud, whose family owns Château Pegau, and André Brunel, owner of Les Cailloux. It’s a big ripe wine--no surprise considering the vintage--that manages to retain freshness. Despite its intensity, it’s still layered and complex, filled with black fruit flavors and spice. Pleasantly rustic, it delivers a lot of bang for the buck. Think lamb on the grill. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 13, 2010

Tardieu Laurent, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône, France) “Les Becs Fins” 2009 ($20, Wilson-Daniels): Côtes du Rhône are a fascinating bunch because they vary quite a lot stylistically. This one, a 60-40 blend of Grenache and Syrah, falls into the “modern” camp for its bright notes of red fruits and spice in its aroma and flavor. It’s medium-bodied and lean despite its 14.5 percent alcohol, with noticeable tannin but also concentrated fresh fruitiness to match. It has aged only in stainless steel. Take advantage of its lean and fresh style by pairing it with rich or fairly heavy foods such as duck confit, grilled meats or bean dishes. 89 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Apr 26, 2011

Perrin et Fils, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2005 ($12, Vineyard Brands):

In addition to owning the famed Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Perrin family has a négociant business buying grapes and unfinished wines from growers--often neighbors--in the southern Rhone Valley and selling the finished wine under the Perrin & Fils label. This robust red, made from equal parts Grenache and Syrah, has an intriguing earthy quality reminiscent of Mourvedre. Despite fine tannins, its succulent fruit and depth make it better suited for winter casseroles than as a before-dinner drink. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008

Domaine Notre Dame des Pallieres, Côtes du Rhône Villages - Sablet (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Olivet” 2018 ($25):

Bold oak char dominates this wine’s aromatic impression, but isn’t intrusive on the palate, where blackberry and raspberry are soft and well folded into the spice and pepper mix. The oak influence makes for a slight drying in the finish, but a well marbled steak will mitigate that with ease. Very nicely made -- I’m guessing a little bottle age will work in its favor. Contains 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.
93 Rich Cook Feb 25, 2020

Domaine Oratoire St. Martin, Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne (France) Les Douyes 2013 ($38, North Berkeley Wine):

You may not be familiar yet with the Cairanne appellation in the Côtes du Rhône, but it was promoted to appellation status in its own right in 2016, joining such well known names as Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. One of the finest producers in Cairanne is Domaine Oratoire St. Martin, owned by brothers Frédéric and François Alary, the 10th generation of winemakers at this estate. Since 2012 the estate has been run Biodynamically, and no pesticides or chemical fertilizers are used in the vineyard, and some plots are still plowed by horse. This Grenache-Mourvèdre blend is beautifully structured, with a superb fruit to acid balance. Dense and complex, and with 13.5% alcohol, it is, all in all, a perfect red wine to enjoy with summer meals.
94 Marguerite Thomas May 22, 2018

Domaine les Hautes Cances, Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) Cuvée Vielles Vignes 2013 ($25, Vintage ’59 Imports):

Succulent and lip-smacking, this robust Rhône charmer delivers a burst of fruit and spice to the palate, plus a long and firm finish. The estate was founded by the current owners’ grandparents in the 1890s, and the vines are organically raised (though not certified). Folks, this delicious wine is a bargain!
93 Marguerite Thomas May 21, 2019

Perrin & Fils, Cotes du Rhône Villages Rasteau (Rhône, France) "L'Andéol" 2004 ($19, Vineyard Brands): Rasteau is hard on the heels of Gigondas and Vacqueyras in the sweepstakes for runner-up honors to Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the southern Rhône, and this wine is sure to further its cause. Very solid in every respect and quite interesting, it features Grenache notes of red berries but also shows black fruit notes and some nice secondary nuances of smoke, spices and roasted meat. Soft but very flavorful, it will stand up to big food but not overshadow more delicate dishes. 89 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Domaine de L’Amandine, Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret (Rhône Valley, France) 2021 ($17, The Wine Trust):

Séguret, a beautifully perched village in the southern Rhône valley, is one of 22 villages allowed to add their name to the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. Rhône authority Matt Walls, refers to them as a “training camp before being elevated to Cru status.” (Cru status would put them on a level with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, Rasteau, and the like.) In other words, the price has yet to catch up with the quality, which is certainly the case with this wine. With moderate weight, the crunchy red fruit offset by mild tannins makes this one a delight for a wide range of mid-winter fare. I’m usually not a fan of red wine with cheese because the wine’s tannins can overwhelm. But this one works marvelously with Comté because its freshness and acidity cuts and amplifies the rich nuttiness of the cheese. It would also be a good foil for pizza or a take-out rotisserie chicken.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2024

Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) "Domaine Les Genestas" 2016 ($15, Jenny & François Selections):

This single grower wine, Domaine Les Genestas, from the top-notch co-op on the “other” (western) side of the Rhone delivers power without sacrificing refinement. Made entirely from Syrah, it combines pepper-like spike with plum-like flavors wrapped in smooth tannins. It’s another great value. Who says co-ops don’t make excellent wines? 93 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2017

Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) "Domaine Grès St. Vincent" 2015 ($15, Jenny & François Selections):

This fine co-op, Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, bottles wine from individual members by using a domaine label, such as this one, Domaine Grès St. Vincent. The usual Mediterranean blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, produces an unusually fine wine. The Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation is a cut above Côte du Rhône because the grapes come from a smaller number of villages with the potential to produce better wines. Befitting the more exalted appellation, the Domaine Grès St. Vincent is bigger and bolder, without being boisterous, compared to the co-op’s straight Côtes du Rhône (also reviewed this week). With substance and muscle, this wine is not appropriate for chilling, but rather for opening with robust fall fare. Another tremendous value! 90 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2017

Château Unang, Côtes du Ventoux (Rhône, France) 2007 ($17, Vintage ’59 Imports): One of the things that a great growing season can do is to narrow the

qualitative gap between good sites and outstanding ones, and that is what presumably happened for Château Unang in 2007. This wine isn’t quite up to its more prestigious stablemate “La Croix” bottling, but it absolutely belongs on any table alongside of it, and you can get it onto your own table for half the cost. Crafted from 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Carignan, it is soft, open and opulent in its ripeness, yet the fruit shows restraint rather than anything grapey or chunky. A remarkable value. 90 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2010

E. Guigal, Cotes-du-Rhone (France) 2007 ($17, Vintus Wines):

In the rush to experience something new, it can be all too easy to forget old favorites. Don’t make that mistake here. E. Guigal has been making delicious, expressive red Côtes-du-Rhône for many years now. The wines never disappoint, and depending on the vintage, sometimes truly thrill. That’s definitely the case with this exciting 2007. A blend of equal parts Syrah and Grenache, with a dash of Mourvèdre to add spice, its plum, cherry, black pepper, and dried herb character proves very compelling. It’s a textbook example of a flavor profile that only the southern Rhône can deliver.
91 Paul Lukacs May 24, 2011

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cotes-du-Rhone (France) 'Les Forots' 2010 ($19, Palm Bay International): Jean-Luc routinely treats his Cotes-du-Rhone wines with the same respect and attention to detail he gives to his top crus, and that is apparent in this Les Forots from the northern Rhone, near St. Joseph. It is 100 percent syrah and exhibits darker fruit aromas and a bit more richness than the JLC Les Abeilles Cotes-du-Rhone from the south. Both are exceptional, but so very different.
90 Robert Whitley Sep 24, 2013

Skalli, Cotes-du-Rhone (France) 'Les Rabassieres' 2009 ($15, SFW Americas):

The problem, really the only problem, with Cotes-du-Rhone is that it can be anything. Skalli's Les Rabassieres resides in the upper echelon, where the wines have more substance. It is heavy on Grenache at 60 percent, with the remainder of the blend given to Syrah and Mourvedre. This was a superb vintage in the Rhone Valley, with a late-summer heat wave that pushed the grapes to full ripeness heading into the tricky fall weeks of harvest. The wine exhibits lovely aromas of sweet red fruits such as raspberry, currant and strawberry, with a hint of spice, and savory notes of dried herbs and garrigue. It is full and supple in the mouth, with sweet, smooth tannins and good balance despite palate weight that might surprise. For the money, one of the most compelling value reds I've tasted this year. 90 Robert Whitley Nov 1, 2011

If every $15 wine were this good most of us would seldom venture into the realm of more expensive wine. Maison Bouachon's Les Rabassieres in the perfect wine for so many occasions, owing to its delicacy -- it is medium-bodied -- and its complexity -- it delivers an array of aromatic sensastions from red fruits to black fruits to toasty oak, with a black pepper backnote that is most inviting. The wine is well balanced, with an earthy minerality, and will pair nicely with savory appetizers, grilled meats and earthy soups such as French onion or wild mushroom.

Saint Cosme, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2021 ($16, Winebow):

Saint Cosme is a negociant line under Château Saint Cosme created in 1997 by owner and winemaker Louis Barruol. Wines from estate vineyards are labeled Château Saint Cosme. Using grapes from contracted vineyards allows him to make delicious wines like this 2021 Cotes du Rhone at very affordable prices. It is made of Syrah, which was fermented then aged in cement vats for six months before bottling. It has a deep ruby, purple color and spicy, dark fruit aromas. It is full-bodied with concentrated flavors of blackberry, plum and black cherry with balancing acidity, very smooth tannins and a lingering finish, a perfect foil for spicy barbequed beef or a loaded pizza.
93 Rebecca Murphy Jan 10, 2023

Château de Ségriès, Côtes-du-Rhône (France) 2016 ($18, Kysela):

This succulent, medium-bodied wine is smooth and plump as it hits the palate and slides deliciously across the taste buds. The oak is mercifully discreet, adding texture more than flavor (10% of the wine was aged in oak barrels, then in concrete tanks). Cherries and berries, both red and black, dominate the flavor profile. Food friendly, immensely pleasurable and excellent value for the price, this is the type of wine to buy by the case. A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Carignan.
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 23, 2019

Delas Freres, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Saint-Esprit” 2017 ($12, Maison Marques et Domaines):

There’s a reason why Rhône Valley Syrah and Grenache grapes are so often partnered together. With its relatively smaller berries Syrah contributes dominant dark blackberry/blueberry elements plus mint and/or licorice, whereas larger Grenache grapes chime in with lighter red berry flavors (strawberries, raspberries). Grenache also can also raise the blend’s alcohol level. Round and generous in the mouth, “Saint Esprit” makes an excellent partner for summery foods such as grilled chops and/or ratatouille.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jul 9, 2019

Château Mont-Redon, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Réserve 2018 ($17, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):

Château Mont-Redon is located in — and best known for — Châteauneuf--du-Pape, the southern Rhône’s most famous wine. However, it would be a mistake to let this producer’s Châteauneuf overshadow their delicious Côtes du Rhône, as demonstrated by this 2018 rendition. Mont-Redon owns some 60 acres of vines in the Côtes du Rhône appellation, and they also purchase wines from top growers in the region for the Mont-Redon Réserve wines. A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, this wine is invitingly aromatic and offers a fairly complex roster of fruity flavors.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 29, 2020

Delas, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Saint-Esprit” 2010 ($13, Maisons Marques & Domaines): While the dominant grape in many a Côtes-du-Rhône is the generous and friendly Grenache, Delas makes Syrah the star of the show with 90 percent of the blend and Grenache playing a supporting role at ten percent. So, consider this one a food wine with its black cherry fruit highlighted with black pepper and rock-solid tannins. The lush strawberry fruit of the Grenache makes itself known in the mid-palate. Altogether, it’s considerable wine, especially for the price. 89 Rebecca Murphy Oct 9, 2012

Ferraton, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Samorëns” 2010 ($12): Priced as low as $10 in some markets, this is a terrific value and a strong argument for the excellence of the 2010 vintage in the southern Rhône. It shows red and black cherry fruit along with hints of dried herbs and smoked meat. Medium-bodied, with a pure, fresh profile and just enough tannins to frame the fruit, this will work beautifully with a roasted chicken or most preparations of duck or pork.
89 Michael Franz Feb 19, 2013

Louis Max, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2018 ($15, HB Wine Imports):

As this wine shows, wines from the broad Côtes du Rhône appellation can provide an excellent pleasure-to-price ratio. A balanced and lively Grenache and Syrah blend, it has good concentration and the oomph you would expect from the south of France. It displays both spice and plum-like fruitiness, while mild tannins prevent it from being soft. Here’s an ideal choice for that mid-winter stew.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 9, 2021

Delas, Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Saint Esprit” 2007 ($13, Maisons Marques and Domaines): This is a subtle but quite tasty wine blended from 70% Grenache Blanc and 10% each of Clairette, Bourboulenc and Viognier. It starts off with delicate floral aromas, which are then followed by fruit recalling peaches and white melon, with a citrus edge. Medium bodied and rounded in mouthfeel, it finishes clean, with a pleasantly crisp edge. 87 Michael Franz Jun 30, 2009

Domaine Jean-David , Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2011 ($20, Polaner): Domaine Jean-David is a small 40-acre domaine located in Seguret, one of the 18 villages that make more distinctive wine and therefore are allowed to append their name to the Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages appellation. Made from the usual Mediterranean blend of Grenache (71%) and Carignan (14%) with Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah rounding out the blend, it is both floral and mineraly with suave tannins. It’s a great choice for current consumption with hearty winter fare.
89 Michael Apstein Mar 12, 2013

Jean-Luc Colombo, Coutes-du-Rhone (France) 'Les Abeilles Rouge' 2011 ($13, Palm Bay International): This southern Rhone blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre is a bit of a masterpiece considering the price. It exhibits the firm structure and minerality of all Jean-Luc Colombo reds, with the depth and complexity of a more important wine, say a Cotes-du-Rhone Villages or perhaps one of the regions top crus. There is a note of blueberry and white pepper, with a hint of anise; and like most very good, serious reds it was better the next day, having been open and exposed to air for 24 hours.
90 Robert Whitley Sep 24, 2013

Guigal, Crozes Hermitage (Rhone Valley, France) 2007 ($24): Not surprisingly given the appellation, Guigal’s 2007 Crozes-Hermitage is more distinctive than his Côtes du Rhone. It conveys attractive black pepper notes and a ripe dark-fruit character reflective of the warm 2007 vintage. It has added depth along with the hallmark Guigal classiness. Overall, it’s a more “serious” wine. Still, it’s not so serious that you couldn’t enjoy it with reheated beef bourguignon.
91 Michael Apstein May 1, 2012

Paul Jaboulet, Crozes Hermitage (Rhone Valley, France) Les Jalets 2005 ($27, Frederick Wildman):

One of the finer examples of Crozes Hermitage I've experienced from Jaboulet, the '05 Les Jalets is an utterly delicious wine. This vintage delivers ripe, juicy, fleshy raspberry and blueberry fruit, a savory smoked game backnote, and a scintillating nuance of white pepper and brown spice. All in a beautifully balanced package with seamless, supple tannins.

Domaine Des Hauts Châssis, Crozes Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Galets” 2004 ($30, Thomas Calder Selection): This isn't the most muscular, intense or 'impressive' Crozes Hermitage that I've ever tasted, but it is certainly one of the most purely enjoyable ones. Ripe, fresh fruit dominates the sensory impressions, with notes of both red and black berries taking the lead, along with nice accents of fresh meat, pepper and subtle spices. Medium-bodied, with excellent depth of flavor and very soft, rounded structure, this is a delight to sip by itself but also serious enough to work with moderately robust foods. 90 Michael Franz Nov 27, 2007

Jean-Luc Colombo, Crozes Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Fées Brunes” 2006 ($25, Palm Bay Imports):

This wine offers appealing aromas of roasted meat, tobacco leaves, spices and smoke. Medium-bodied, it is more expressive in aroma than in flavor, but the flavors are quite pleasant, and soft, unobtrusive tannins do not foreshorten the finish. Well suited to less robust preparations of lamb or beef. 88 Michael Franz Apr 8, 2008

Michelas St. Jemms, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “La Chasselière” 2015 ($35, Steven Berardi Selections / Lanterna):

I was floored by this wine when encountering it in August among many other bottles during a giant consulting project, and was eager to taste it again to see whether it would look as good when focused upon in a more sustained way. I hereby answer in the affirmative, and emphatically so. It is very complex, with lovely aromas including floral scents along with ripe fruit notes and suggestions of smoked meat and oak spice. The flavors are similarly intricate, with superb depth and persistence as well as excellent balance between fruit, tannin and acidity. What is most interesting and impressive is that the wine’s proportionality and integration are so exceptional that one could focus on it as a gorgeous monolith or as an intricate multiplicity -- rather like a cleverly drawn two-dimensional cube that shifts as one alters one’s gaze. Wicked good. I’ll see you in the checkout line.
95 Michael Franz Jan 15, 2019

Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Thalabert” 2009 ($54, Frederick Wildman):

Old vines, also exclusively from Jaboulet’s holding, make this a more complex wine. Judicious oak aging amplifies the palate of flavor. Less immediately overt because of a more tannic structure, it reveals itself slowly, especially in the finish. An alluring meatiness emerges. Graceful, powerful and long, it’s far better than many producers’ Hermitage. 94 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2012

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($24, Vintus Wines): Guigal is one of, if not the, star producer in the Rhône Valley. Their wines, especially their single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turgue, which now command hundreds of dollars upon release, have shown the world the grandeur and finesse of Rhône wines. Guigal’s real talent, in my mind, lies in the quality they bring to the less prestigious appellations in the Rhône. Take this Crozes-Hermitage for example. Located on the flatter land around Hermitage, it sits well below that appellation on the prestige ladder. But the beauty of Crozes-Hermitage is that the consumer gets an insight into the Syrah-based wines of the Rhône at a fraction of the price of Hermitage -- and they are ready to drink far sooner than those from the more exalted appellation. Guigal’s 2012 is a perfect example. From the hand of a master, it’s suave with an almost creamy texture and a delightful mouth-tingling hint of spice. Its weight and subtle power make it a perfect choice for hearty fare this fall and winter. It’s hard to find a more enjoyable wine at this price.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2015

Saint Cosme, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($30, Winebow):

One of the primetime producers of Gigondas, Saint Cosme has been in the hands of the Barruol family since 1490. Its Crozes-Hermitage is produced from 100% Sérine, an ancient and local strain of Syrah said to be different in shape and size from modern selections. Grown on hillside vineyards in the northern part of the appellation, the wine is fermented with native yeasts, aged in oak (20% new) and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Dark purple in color, the wine is concentrated and full-bodied and opens up nicely to display oodles of ripe dark fruit. With lush blackberry fruit and subtle hints of pepper and leather, the flavors are classic Syrah. Background notes of earthiness along with moderate oak tannins lead to a strong, youthful finish. Needs time but should be ready in 4 to 5 years.
93 Norm Roby Sep 6, 2022

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($31, Vintus Wines):

Northern Rhône reds are among the most distinctive of Syrah wines. The 2019 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Rouge is a delicious example of the classic Northern Rhône style. Deep ruby in color, the bouquet shows blackberry, blueberry and red cherry fruits backed by hints of olives, sun-baked herbs, cured meats, black pepper and violets. Full flavored, the 2019 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage unfolds across the palate with layers of blackberry, blackcurrant and cherry fruits enhanced by smoky tones, savory herbs, olives and black peppery spice. Still youthful in character, it is a wine that will develop nicely over the next 6 to 8 years.
92 Wayne Belding Mar 14, 2023

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) 2003 ($22, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal, arguably the Rhône's best producer, has been making stellar wines from Côte Rôtie since the 1960s. His first vintage of Crozes Hermitage was 1999, just prior to his acquiring land in that part of the Northern Rhône. His 2003 Crozes-rich, spicy yet balanced and polished-dwarfs some producers's Hermitage. Its suppleness makes it lovely to drink now with grilled meat, but it has the requisite stuffing to evolve over the next decade. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2006

Jean-Luc Colombo, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhone Valley, France) 'Les Fees Brunes' 2010 ($25, Palm Bay International):

Jean-Luc Colombo 2010 “Les Fees Brunes” Crozes-Hermitage is a result of Jean-Luc’s stellar stewardship of the vines. Crozes-Hermitage, a few miles up the river Rhone from Tain-l’Hermitage, is the largest appellation of the northern Rhone and the least revered, at least in comparison to nearby Cote-Rotie and Hermitage. This wine comes from a single-vineyard site situated on a steep hillside. It is farmed naturally, without pesticides, and it stands out from most other wines of Crozes-Hermitage. The vineyard is 100 percent syrah. The 2010, from Jean-Luc describes as one of the three best vintages in his winemaking experience, is beautifully structured, exhibiting firm tannins that support silky layers of plum and blueberry aroma, with a hint of spicy oak. Considering Colombo’s top wines retail for more than $80 a bottle, this one is a steal. It should age exceptionally well over the next 10 years, and the alcohol –by-volume (ABV) is a modest 13 percent. The average price for this wine at WineSearcher.com was $22.
92 Robert Whitley Sep 24, 2013

Marlène & Nicolas Chevalier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Voleyses” 2015 ($33, Michael Corso Selections / Lanterna):

This lovely Crozes shows very expressive aromas of violets and dark berry fruit, along with a savory note recalling cured charcuterie that carries through to the flavors. Wood influence is either subtle or muted -- depending on how one would prefer to phrase this -- but the key point is that the gorgeously pure fruit was wisely permitted to hold center stage. This is the first vintage of this wine that I’ve tasted, so I can’t say how representative this particular rendition may be, but I love how restrained the oak is, and how this was crafted to feature interplay between fresh Syrah flavors and savory terroir accents. Delicious, and enduringly interesting, and wonderfully versatile with food thanks to a medium-bodied profile.
92 Michael Franz Dec 11, 2018

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) "Domaine de Thalabert" 2003 ($34, Wildman): The deep, almost inky color of this wine holds out promise for something good to come. Dense blackberry aromas with a hint of anise and subtle toasted oak notes lead to full Syrah flavors, ripe berry notes, and good supporting tannins. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 14, 2006

Domaine Les 4 Vents, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2015 ($30, Wine Traditions Ltd):

This estate is run by two sisters, Lucie and Nancy Fourel, who have farmed vines in Crozes-Hermitage since 2010. The result of their efforts is, in this case, a Syrah of bountiful character that spills out high-toned aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry, and blueberries, with hints of cracked black pepper, tapenade, clove, and a subtle floral undertone. The flavor profile mirrors the aroma. It is medium-bodied, with fine, polished tannins and well-integrated acidity that balances the ripe fruit notes. This Syrah culminates with a harmonious crescendo on the long, velvety finish.
91 Miranda Franco Feb 28, 2023

Ferraton Pere et Fils, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “La Matinière” 2012 ($19, Trinchero): Ferraton has risen like a rocket since Michel Chapoutier took this old house under his exceedingly able control, and this is a fine case in point. Crozes-Hermitage is the appellation in the northern Rhône that most frequently disappoints, but that’s hardly an issue in this case. The wine shows terrific balance between primary Syrah fruit and the savory, pleasantly earthy accents that make renditions of this grape from the northern Rhône utterly inimitable elsewhere…despite hundreds thousands of attempts in other quarters. Serve this with any preparation of lamb and it will prove totally convincing…for less than twenty bucks.
91 Michael Franz Feb 17, 2015

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2011 ($24, Vintus): Crozes-Hermitage, an appellation on flatter ground surrounding the prestigious and sloped Hermitage appellation, is a sleeper site for attractively priced Syrah-based Rhône wines. In distinction to its more famous neighbor, wines from Crozes, as they’re sometimes known, need less aging and are far less expensive, but can provide enormous value, especially when produced by a top firm, such as Guigal. Guigal’s 2011 is a picture perfect example of Crozes-Hermitage, delivering an enlivening combination of minerality and black peppery notes. Not overwrought -- its stated alcohol is only 13 percent -- it’s a sophisticated wine that would be a fine choice to accompany at steak on the grill this summer.
91 Michael Apstein May 5, 2015

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2015 ($26, Vintus):

The 2015 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Rouge is a delicious and affordable example of the classic Northern Rhône Syrah style. Deep ruby in color, the bouquet shows blackberry, plum and red cherry fruits backed by elements of sun-baked herbs, cured meats, black pepper and violets. Full flavored, the 2015 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage unfolds across the palate with layers of black plum and blackberry fruits enhanced by smoky tones, savory herbs, olives and black peppery spice. Still youthful in character, it is a wine that will develop nicely over the next 5 to 8 years. It will be a delicious companion for grilled meats at your next backyard soirée.
91 Wayne Belding Jul 2, 2019

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2004 ($26, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): Over the years, Guigal, one of the Rhone's best producers, has expanded his portfolio by selective purchases of competitors' vineyards. He now produces a marvelous Crozes-Hermitage at about only twice the price of his basic, good-value Cotes du Rhone, which makes it another excellent buy. It shows the peppery, rather than the plumy, side of the Syrah grape. Long, suave and beautifully balanced, it has uncommon elegance for this appellation. Unlike Guigal's Hermitage, the 2004 Crozes is ready now. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2006 ($22, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal, perhaps the Rhône’s best producer overall, made his reputation with his stellar wines from Côte Rôtie. But since he purchased two estates that gave him vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage, the less steeply sloped land adjacent to Hermitage, he has been making wonderful wines from there as well. As with red Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage uses the Syrah grape, but the wines are typically far less structured and approachable earlier. In that vein, Guigal’s 2006 Crozes-Hermitage delivers lovely peppery notes that complement the bright raspberry-like and plum nuances. Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being aggressive. It’s a classy wine that’s lovely to drink now and a fabulous wine for the price. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2010

Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Jalets” 2009 ($26, Frederick Wildman): Jaboulet, one the great names of the Rhône, has been through some tumultuous times lately. Fortunately, they have weathered the storms, turned things around, and are now back on track. And if anyone needed any proof, I suggest tasting Jaboulet’s two wonderful Crozes-Hermitage. The Les Jalets comes from younger vines within Jaboulet’s holdings in Crozes-Hermitage. It receives no barrel aging. Its beauty comes from its grace, balance and immediacy. Spice and fruit come together seamlessly, unencumbered by oak. To their credit, Jaboulet does not overwork this wine. They just let the pure fruit shine. It would be a good choice for a hearty stew tonight. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2012

Domaine Belle, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) “Les Pierrelles” 2007 ($30, Robert Kacher Selections): Dark color and deep flavors make “Les Pierrelles” a very satisfying Syrah, with pure fruit showing notes of both red and black berries. The depth of color and flavor initially suggest a muscular, masculine wine, and yet the tender texture of the tannins and finish show that it was gently extracted, and the ultimate impression is one of a wine showing even more finesse than flash. 90 Michael Franz Dec 7, 2010

Domaine Combier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) "Cuvée Laurent" 2018 ($40, Cape Classics):

Domaine Combier focuses on making “joyful and charming wines” by focusing their efforts on the fruit in the vineyard and minimizing their influence in the winery. In 1999, the winery invested heavily in concrete eggs to further their goal of making wine with minimal influence. The eggs allow the lees to naturally stir, control oxygen, and impart no flavors on the wine. The resulting wine shows black pepper-crusted cured meat and dark fruit, classic notes from Northern Rhône.
90 Vince Simmon Apr 25, 2023

Domaine des Remizieres, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhone Valley, France) "Cuvee Christophe" Rouge 2001 ($33, Chemin des Vins): Philippe Desmure and his daughter Emilie are making fabulous wine at this estate. This 2001 -- a fabulous vintage in the northern Rhone -- is a heavyweight Crozes-Hermitage. Meaty, with supple tannins, it has traces of minerals and tar more often seen in Hermitage than Crozes-Hermitage. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Domaine les Bruyeres, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhone Valley) Blanc 2004 ($21, Elite Wines): This sumptuous white from the Northern Rhône has intense citrusy notes (preserved lemon, candied orange peel), plus a long, satisfying finish. It's every bit what the French refer to as a "vin de soif" -- thirst-quenching wine. 90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 4, 2006

E. Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2009 ($23, Importer: Vintus, LLC): This is a lot of Syrah for the money. Blackberry and plum fruit mingles happily with black pepper, leather and an inkling of fresh and dried herbs. On the palate the fruit is ripe, but linear, not fat. It’s medium bodied with a well defined balance of fruit, acidity and dusty tannins. It’s drinking quite well now and will continue to develop in the bottle.
90 Rebecca Murphy Jun 4, 2013

E. Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) 2006 ($25, Ex Cellars): This wine is nowhere near as well-known or widely-available as

Guigal’s very consistent Côtes du Rhône, which is sourced from the southern Rhône. This bottling from Crozes costs less than $10 more per bottle but gets you onto Guigal’s home turf in the north and is, to my taste, much more interesting. It offers a genuine introduction to the smoky, sexy, exotically-perfumed world of northern Rhône Syrah, and does it at a price that is notably lower than almost any other wine that can keep that promise. Soft in texture but packed with complexity and character, it is deep enough in flavor to work well with red meat dishes, but is elegant and medium-bodied and optimally suited to something like roast duck or a smoked pork chop. 90 Michael Franz Dec 7, 2010

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2003 ($22, ExCellars): Crozes-Hermitage is the flatter, less well situated land around the

prestigious hill of Hermitage. From conscientious producers, like Guigal, these wines can be great values. This wine shows the ripeness of the vintage without being marred by over-extraction. There is an almost Australian-like quality to the flavors--although not so flamboyant with alcohol--but its European lineage shows in the acid/tannin structure. Certainly an atypical Crozes because of its ripeness and power, but one that is very pleasing. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2007

Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Jalets” 2004 ($23, Wildman): Jaboulet, one the Rhône's most reliable and top producers, makes two wines, this one and one labeled Thalabert, from Crozes-Hermitage, the flatter land surrounding the more prestigious Hermitage appellation. Les Jalets has a smoothness and elegance surrounding its characteristic peppery spicy core. An excellent value, it is perfect for drinking now. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 30, 2007

M. Chapoutier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) "La Petite Ruche" 2007 ($22, Terlato Wines International):

If your recent Syrah experiences have been limited to ripe, rich wines from California or Australia, you’d be well advised to try this wine for a refresher course in how refreshing Syrah can be when sourced from a genuinely cool climate. The aromas and flavors show vivid notes of red and black raspberries with accents of smoked meat and cracked pepper. Bright and strikingly fresh thanks to abundant acidity, this is really a medium-bodied wine rather than a heavyweight Syrah in the Barossa mode, this should be paired with appropriately weighted food, and should be aged for another couple of years if possible. 90 Michael Franz Sep 21, 2010

M. Chapoutier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “La Petite Ruche” 2020 ($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

Chapoutier, one of the best producers in the Rhône Valley, is both a négociant and a grower. As a grower, the house makes estate wine from grapes in vineyards they own. As a négociant, the company buys either very newly pressed wine or grapes from their neighbors and transform it into wine. They take great pride in their négociant wines, like La Petite Ruche, which may have less prestige than their estate bottlings, but compensate by delivering terrific value. Crozes-Hermitage are vineyards mostly on the flatlands surrounding the famous Hermitage hill, though some growing sites are on slopes at notably higher elevations. Quality from this largest appellation can vary considerably, so sticking with a top producer like Chapoutier is wise. La Petite Ruche, made entirely from Syrah, delivers dark fruit notes accented by savory meaty and peppery ones. Great acidity in the finish keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. The polished suave tannins in the mid-weight wine make it ideal for drinking this summer with food coming off the grill.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2023

M. Chapoutier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Petite Ruche” 2007 ($25, Terlato Wines International):

An exemplary northern Rhône red, this wine successfully straddles the boundary between the popular international style that emphasizes forward fruit flavors and a more traditional one that highlights earthy, peppery ones. The result is a compelling, complex Syrah-based red that should delight all sorts of wine lovers. It displays plenty of plum-like, fleshy fruit, augmented by spicy, savory notes that gather force in the finish. 90 Paul Lukacs May 11, 2010

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Domaine de Thalabert” 2012 ($57, Frederick Wildman): The vineyard behind this wine is the original Jaboulet plot, and with a surface area of more than 120 acres, is probably the largest contiguous vineyard in the entire northern Rhône. Quite flat but very rocky, it produced a wine in 2012 that shows excellent focus and brightness but also quite substantial fruit recalling red berries with some black-toned accents. There’s also a hint of cocoa powder in this, lending plenty of early interest to a wine that will only improve during the next decade.
90 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2015

Tardieu-Laurent, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) Vieilles Vignes 2008 ($44, Wilson Daniels): Appropriately firm and focused, this is top-class Syrah from the steeply sloped portion of the appellation. Rich but structured, it shows dark berry fruit notes edged with a whiff of spice and smoke, as well as an intriguing backnote of smoked meat. Enjoyable now, this will improve for at least another five years. 90 Michael Franz May 31, 2011

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) Syrah 2011 ($24, Vintus Wines): The 2011 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Rouge is widely available and is a delicious example of the classic Northern Rhône Syrah style. Deep ruby in color, the bouquet shows blackberry and blackcurrant fruits backed by elements of sun-baked herbs, cured meats, black pepper and violets. Full flavored, the 2011 Guigal Crozes unfolds across the palate with layers of blackcurrant and blackberry fruits enhanced by smoky tones, savory herbs and black peppery spice. Still youthful in character, it is a wine that will develop nicely over the next 3 to 5 years. It will be a delicious companion for grilled meats and autumnal stews.
89 Wayne Belding Oct 13, 2015

Yann Chave, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) 2007 ($28, Weygandt-Metzler): Pure, fresh aromas and flavors of red raspberries and black cherries are the driving forces in this wine, with light peppery accents and very subtle oak. Light floral aromatics get it off to a very good start, and subtle wood and ultra fine-grained tannins let the delicate fruit shine through the finish. 89 Michael Franz Dec 21, 2010

Domaine Belle, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Pierrelles” 2004 ($26, Robert Kacher Selections): An attractively spicy, pepper-filled Crozes-Hermitage from a reliable producer, with a notable streak of acidity that helps the wine pair well with food but may seem slightly off-putting if one sips the wine on its own. Drink it with hearty fare. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 31, 2008

J. L. Chave Selection, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) “Silène” 2006 ($20, Eric Cannon Imports): This wine may be named after the mythic attendant to Bacchus, but one gets the idea that, if actually personified, it would be temperamentally disinclined to take a back seat to anybody. It is a highly expressive, gutsy Syrah showing smoky, spicy, meaty accents on a core of rich, dark fruit. Built for pairing with serious food rather than cocktail-style sipping. 88 Michael Franz Dec 21, 2010

Ferraton Père & Fils, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) “La Maliniere” 2008 ($22, The Country Vintner): The 2008 vintage in the northern Rhône left many vintners struggling to fully ripen their Syrah, making relatively affordable bottlings like this a bit of a crap shoot. However, Michel Chapoutier seems to have worked his magic yet again in the case of this wine, which is pure, pretty and pleasing at every turn. A Syrah built for freshness and elegance, it shows red berry notes leading into a soft finish. Pair with duck, pork or veal. 86 Michael Franz Dec 21, 2010

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage Rouge (Northern Rhône, France) Syrah 2009 ($24, Vintus Wines):

Although newer vintages have been released, the 2009 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage is widely available and should be sought by those who savor the classic Northern Rhône Syrah style. Still deep ruby in color, the bouquet shows blackberry and blackcurrant fruits interwoven with hints of smoked bacon, sun-baked herbs, black pepper, violets and leather. Rich and complex on the palate, the ’09 Guigal offers layers of blackcurrant, blackberry and red cherry fruits with the cured meat and black peppery spice that defines maturing Northern Rhône Syrah. The smoky and spicy nuances linger beautifully at the finish. Just reaching its best drinking now, the Guigal Crozes will offer great enjoyment for another 3 to 4 years.
92 Wayne Belding May 13, 2014

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Ermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($88, Vineyard Brands): This wine is easily the best of the first crop of releases from Maison Nicolas Perrin, a self-described “boutique negociant” that is a cooperative venture between the Perrin family (famous for Chateau Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape) and Nicolas Jaboulet. It shows

serious richness and concentration, with impressive structural balance between ripe softness and tannic grip. What is most impressive, however, is the complexity of the aromas and flavors, which show lovely fruit notes recalling dark berries and cherries that are accented with notes of smoked meat, woodsmoke, sautéed mushrooms and spices. Already delicious with food, this will become considerably more complex if you can keep your hands off of it for another three or four years--which won’t be easy after your first taste of it. 92 Michael Franz Sep 21, 2010

Château de Saint-Cosme, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Hominis Fides” 2013 ($95): Obviously this wine isn’t going to undercut many wines from Châteauneuf du Pape on price (since it rings up for about $100), but it is an indisputably great wine and an object lesson in how good Gigondas can be. Sweet scents with spicy accents get it of to a great aromatic start, and the palate more than follows through, showing sappy concentration and exceedingly deep flavors that are almost unfathomable. Yet, despite a serious lashing of oak and very imposing power, the wine exhibits essentially perfect proportions and an open character that makes it almost irresistible already--even before it has been released in most overseas markets. There’s lots of alcohol in this monster of a wine, but there’s so much fruit slathered over the wine’s other components that it doesn’t seem hot or harsh at all. Sensational stuff.
96 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2015

Domaine Brusset, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Hauts de Montmirail” 2013 ($38):

This sensational wine is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre that underwent elevage in 70% new French oak and 30% stainless steel. It shows the density and power of the 2013 in Gigondas (which was marked by miniscule yields after poor spring flowering), yet the wine is nevertheless admirably graceful, as the marvelous fruit material has already soaked up much of the spice and toast notes from the oak to achieve excellent integration. Many bottles of this wine will be drunk far too young for it to achieve its optimal maturity, but it offers up so much kick-down-the-door deliciousness that nobody could be blamed for cracking in early.
94 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine de la Tête Noir, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2013 ($30): This is a huge and hugely expressive wine, with very dark and ripe fruit but no hint of raisining or over-extraction. On the contrary, it is admirably fresh, with remarkably pure fruit despite its glass-staining, mouth-coating profile. Intense and grippy, but graceful too, with fruit that never yields to the oak or tannins, this is a fantastic wine that will only get better for a decade.
94 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2015

Château de Saint Cosme, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($42): Gigondas, another one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village, is capable of producing powerful, yet stylish wines. This is one them. Using the usual blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsault, the team at Saint Cosme have fashioned a delightfully unusual combination of black fruit flavors, mineral-like nuances and herbal notes, all of which are wrapped in suave tannins. Though not appropriate as a stand-alone glass before dinner, its balance and suaveness makes it surprisingly enjoyable -- for a young beefy wine -- for a hearty dinner tonight.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2015

Domaine de Piaugier, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($36, Charles Neal Selections):

I admit I cannot pass a Gigondas — and this one by the Domaine de Piaugier is a great example of why I cannot. The blend is 65% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah. Grenache’s rich flavors of black cherry, strawberry, and raspberry are very inviting while Mourvèdre’s blackberry, blueberry flavors with touch of smoke along with Syrah’s black pepper along with their chalky tannins, adds up to a complete symphony of flavors. The generous fruit complements rich stews and spicy barbeque.
93 Rebecca Murphy Jan 2, 2024

Domaine du Terme, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2010 ($30): I’ve seen this wine reviewed (by talented tasters) with scores that are quite significantly lower than what the wine now deserves, and can only assume that it was tight when first released (which isn’t surprising, given the relatively high acidity of wines from the 2010 vintage). Be that as it may, the wine has now really blossomed into something beautiful, with a degree of density that makes it almost sappy in mouthfeel while still showing remarkable lift and freshness thanks to all of that 2010 acidity. Big and rich and very deeply flavored, it nevertheless seems downright lithe--which is a bit uncanny, but the wine remains natural-seeming, very pure, and utterly convincing. This is not yet at its apex, and after a couple of additional years in bottle, I wouldn’t be surprised to discover that my score was also too low.
93 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine Les Pallières, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Terrasse du Diable” 2012 ($36, Kermit Lynch): This is a wildly, wonderfully expressive wine that many others would love even more than I did, as I knocked it down a couple of points on account of a whiff of alcoholic heat in the finish that I found distracting. This might well have gone un-noticed if I had been able to try the wine in the midst of a meal, but in any case, it is definitely not a vitiating flaw, and it is more than counterbalanced by superb depth of flavor and a powerful, complex profile. Full of fruit but also edged with fascinating leathery, meaty accents, this is muscular but not rough, and is quite the thrill ride. Pass the grilled lamb chops.
93 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine Raspail Ay, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($40):

At their best, southern Rhône red wines capture an enticing array of fruit, floral, earth, herb and spice nuances. The 2012 Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas definitely exhibits these attractive characteristics. Made mostly from Grenache grapes, it captivates with its combination of juicy, ripe fruit, flowers and spices. The bouquet reveals luscious blackberry, cherry, and strawberry fruits backed by hints of lavender, marjoram, vanilla and cinnamon. On the palate, the layers of ripe strawberry and blackberry fruit are enhanced by the exotic floral, herb and spice tones. While certainly robust, the Raspail-Ay Gigondas displays a fine balance that bodes well for further development.
93 Wayne Belding Jul 21, 2015

Domaine Raspail-Aÿ, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2015 ($38):

Gigondas and its more well-known brother, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, share the same level on France hierarchical appellation status: they are both one of nine cru of the southern Rhône Valley. They both use a similar blend of standard Mediterranean varieties, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, among others. The big difference is their price -- Gigondas, lacking the name recognition of its more renown brother, is less expensive, but in my mind, no less satisfying. Domaine Raspail-Aÿ is certainly one of the appellation’s top producers. Their 2015 is stunning, with body and power befitting Gigondas, but a finesse and polish that is rarely seen in the southern Rhône. Energetic and mineral-y, it’s a fine choice now for hearty grilled lamb or beef. In celebration of an important birthday, I just had a double magnum of their 1988 Gigondas that was positively thrilling, so I have no doubt the 2015 will develop beautifully. There’s no rush to consume it all now.
93 Michael Apstein Jun 19, 2018

Domaine Tourbillon, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012 ($35): This is a terrific wine that will prove very pleasing to lovers of the “traditional” style of Gigondas on account of a pleasantly earthy, rustic edge while also pleasing modernists due to the fact that there’s plenty of pure fruit riding alongside the gamy streak. Ripe and robust in concentration, yet neither chunky nor over-blown, this is already delicious but sure to become even more complex with another couple of years in bottle.
93 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2015

Famille Perrin, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “La Gille” 2012 ($40, Vineyard Brands): This is one of the most impressive renditions of this wine that I’ve ever tasted, and that’s especially true in the context of the 2012 vintage, which is long on charm but often a little short on grip--at least to my personal taste. It shows deep, dark, gutsy fruit but no rusticity, and likewise it displays plenty of structure but no overt woodiness or astringency. It has years of positive development ahead of it, but could certainly be enjoyed now with food. An outstanding performance for this wine.
93 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2015

Famille Quiot / Château du Trignon, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2010 ($29): A wonderful wine from a historically strong vintage, this shows full ripeness but also striking freshness for a wine now approaching five years of age. This combination of characteristics is entirely in keeping with the profile of 2010, and the strong raw materials easily counterbalance a notable edge of spicy oak to offer a very well balanced finished product. A pleasantly earthy edge lends additional interest to the dark fruit and spice notes, and all of the aromatic and flavor notes are express themselves in harmony. Terrific now but destined for at least another five years of positive development.
93 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Le Domaine Montirius, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) "Terre des Aines" 2015 ($25, Artisan Wine Selections):

From a Biodynamic estate, the grapes that went into making this delicious wine came from old vines (75 to 85 years old). The fruit was hand-harvested, and the wines were aged two years in cement vats, then in bottles. The wine is a dark, inviting red, and it has light floral notes, hints of anise and ripe, densely flavored blackberries. A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, this is a splendid example of a Southern Rhône blend.
93 Marguerite Thomas Dec 4, 2018

Santa Duc, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Hautes Garrigues” 2012 ($48, Robert Katcher Selections):

An ultra-serious Gigondas that shows very deep color and excellent concentration. Despite these impressive attributes and a serious dose of new oak, there’s no hint of over-ripeness, over-extraction, or over-oaking, and the wine really comes off as wonderfully balanced and proportional. Blended from 65% Grenache and 35% Mourvèdre, this is faintly earthy but definitely clean and free of any taint of brettanomyces. Although it is very expressive and full of character, all of its most notable aspects stem directly from superb fruit material.
93 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine du Grand Montmirail, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($30): This excellent producer almost always seems to turn out wines that show excellent density and power but also fine freshness (a characteristic that seems traceable to vineyards perched near the top of the appellation that ripen fruit notably later than those of most other growers). This rendition from 2012 shows impressive complexity on both the nose and palate, with excellent balance between fruit, acidity, tannin and wood. Already very enjoyable, it will nevertheless improve for years to come. And stay tuned for the 2013, which is very concentrated and impressive. I tasted the final but as yet un-bottled blend, and though I choose not to score it yet, I’ve made a note to buy it upon release.
92 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine du Grapillon d’Or, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “1806” 2013 ($27):

One of two fine releases from Grapillon d’Or, this “1806” bottling shows lovely, lifted aromatics that feature red cherry and berry notes that seem sourced predominantly from Grenache. Oak edging is notable but very nicely attuned to the fruit profile, with some faint undertones of leather and garrigue already emerging. This has a few years to go before it will really hit its stride, but it is damned sure off to a good start.
92 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine du Grapillon d’Or, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Excellence” 2012 ($30):

This 2012 “Excellence” bottling from Domaine du Grapillon d’Or shows less oak than the 2013 “1806” bottling, yet it displays even more depth, density and guts. The fruit profile is also notably different, centered on dark cherries and berries rather than red fruits. The aromas and flavors are quite open and expressive right now, though the wine may shut down somewhat before hitting optimal maturity in another five years or so. Delicious and enduringly interesting.
92 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine la Roubine, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($28): Made from Biodynamically-raised fruit, this excellent wine shows serious ripeness but also admirably purity and expressiveness. Open and delicious already, it is very generously flavored but not obvious or chunky. A meaty quality underlying the fruit lends special interest, and the finish is wonderfully symmetrical and persistent.
92 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine Les Pallières, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Racines” 2011 ($38, Kermit Lynch): Made from fruit yielded by vines averaging 65 years of age, this is packed with power and built for the cellar. The blend is based on 80% Grenache, with the remaining 20% comprised of Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette. Meaty and robust, with gutsy tannins but plenty of fruit to balance them out beautifully, this will be terrific for those patient enough to age it for another five years.
92 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine Les Pallières, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Terrasse du Diablo” 2007 ($28, Kermit Lynch):

With the 2007 vintage, there are two cuvées, this one and “Les Racines” (also reviewed this week), from this leading Gigondas producer. More similar than different, they represent different expressions of the estate. They are definitely not a “first” and “second” wine. Both are easy to recommend. For Terrasse du Diablo, the grapes come from plots at the highest elevation of the estate. Made from a blend of Grenache (90%), Mourvedre (5%) and Clairette, it has great power and spice. But it’s the wine’s harmony and elegance that’s most remarkable. There’s an unexpected glossiness to it and an unusual sophistication for a Gigondas, especially one from rugged high altitude vineyards. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2011

Domaine Les Pallières, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Racines” 2007 ($28, Kermit Lynch): Les Racines comes from parcels from the lower part of the estate, around the winery. Made from old vines (65 year average), it is a blend of Grenache (80%) Syrah and Cinsault (15%) and Clairette. It’s more overt at this stage than Terrasse du Diablo, conveying more power, richness and spice. But it has the same glossy elegance and supple tannins rarely found in Gigondas, an appellation known for rough and tumble wines. Its beautiful balance makes it a delight to drink now, especially with grilled lamb or other robust fare. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2011

Domaine Les Semelles de Vent, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($32): This wine shows very impressively on the sheer quality of its fruit, with very little in the way of woody cosmetics or other cellar tricks being in evidence. Although it displays impressive density and depth of flavor, it also shows the easy charm of the 2012 vintage, without any hard edge to the finish. It will benefit from additional time in bottle to let tertiary notes emerge, but it doesn’t need time to become soft enough to enjoy.
92 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2015

Guigal, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($32, Vintus): To my mind, Guigal is a genius. And this wine shows why. Gigondas is usually a big burly wine reflective of its home in the rugged area of the southern Rhone. With concentrated black fruit-like flavors sprinkled with black pepper notes, Guigal’s 2007 Gigondas certainly has the burly aspect covered. Where Guigal excels is the overall class that he imparts to the wine, taming it without losing anything. 92 Michael Apstein May 8, 2012

Ogier, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Oratorio” 2012 ($31): Serious in appearance as well as performance, this is packaged in a heavy bottle and packs a heavy wallop of rich, ripe fruit. However, it isn’t overly dense and isn’t astringent either, though oak edging is evident. Hold this for several years if you can.
92 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2015

Ogier, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Dentelles” 2018 ($32, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

I am a big fan of wines made from the Grenache grape, and the Gigondas region of France specializes is that grape. Ogier’s Gigondas is primarily Grenache accompanied by Syrah with juicy flavors of strawberry, black cherry and aromatic notes of garrigue, the shrubs and herbs growing throughout the region. It is quite drinkable now and will continue to age gracefully. Dentelles refers to the foothills of the highest peak in Provence, Mont Ventoux. Winemaker Edouard Guérin says, “I look for elegance and generosity in a Gigondas. This terroir has a unique potential and plenty to offer.”
92 Rebecca Murphy Mar 7, 2023

Domaine Brusset, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Tradition le Grand Montmirail” 2013 ($30): A blend of 70% Grenache with 10% each of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, this is a pure rendition of Gigondas with little oak influence but winning fruit flavors. I’m quick to add, however, that this isn’t just a simple and fruity wine, as it shows serious structure from plenty of grippy tannins and a nice leathery undertone. Hold for a couple of years if possible.
91 Michael Franz Apr 14, 2015

Domaine de Fontavin, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Combe Sauvage” 2013 ($25): This shows lovely purity and freshness, though it also packs a lot of power and tannin (as is the case for most Gigondas releases from the low-yield but high-promise 2013 vintage). The intense fruit is edged with emerging leathery accents that suggest that this will become much more complex with additional time in bottle.
91 Michael Franz Apr 21, 2015

Famille Perrin, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Gille” 2011 ($35, Vineyard Brands):

All of the Famille Perrin wines seems to be getting stronger with each passing year, and that’s really saying something when addressing the 2011, which follows great southern Rhône vintages in 2009 and 2010. This doesn’t quite have the weight of the 2009 nor the brightness of the 2010, but it is a wonderfully seamless, complete wine that shows open red fruit notes, medium body, delicate tannins and acidity, and a subtle savory note that really lends enduring interest from sip to sip. This is a wine that will be very easy to enjoy on its own, highly versatile with food, and even suited to 4 or 5 years of cellaring for added aromatic complexity.
91 Michael Franz Mar 1, 2016

Mas de Restanques, Gigondas (Southern Rhône, France) 2019 ($35, Golden Ram LLC):

In Gigondas, you will find some of the most full-bodied Grenache-dominant wines in all of France. This 70-30 blend of Grenache and Syrah from Mas de Restanques delivers effusive aromas of cherries and spice. Black-cherry and plum flavors are balanced by mineral freshness and subtle charred clove and dried earth underpinnings. From the opening aroma to the fine, long finish, this is utterly satisfying. It is the perfect wine to get you through the remaining winter months and enjoy with hearty dishes.
91 Miranda Franco Jan 11, 2022

Perrin & Fils, Gigondas (Rhône, France) "Les Gilles" 2007 ($29, Vineyard Brands): Something about this wine reminds me of the wonderful French jams made of red currants (confiture au groseilles). The Gigondas is dominated by bright and lively red fruit flavors sparked by a flush of sweetness, invigorating acidity, hints of smokiness and earthiness, plus plenty of power and good, firm tannins. 91 Marguerite Thomas Jul 27, 2010

Domaine les Pallieres, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2005 ($37, Kermit Lynch): Gigondas, like Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Vacqueyras, is one of the cru of the southern Rhone. Although the blend of primarily Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and other Rhône varieties, is similar to Châteauneuf, the wines are often a bit more rustic. Domaine les Pallieres, one of the leading producers, makes wines with uncommon elegance without sacrificing the robust earthy signature of the region. Their 2005 fits that mold and is right on the money for those upcoming hearty autumnal meals. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008

Perrin & Fils, Gigondas (Rhône, France) "La Grille" 2004 ($27, Vineyard Brands): A very interesting and impressively complex southern Rhône, this shows great character and dimension in a classic Grenache profile. Aromas show notes of dried bing cherries and fresh black plums along with lovely accent notes of fresh meat, dried herbs and subtle spices. Medium-bodied but quite deeply flavored, this is a great choice for summer grilling with pork or veal. 90 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Delas, Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Bessards” 2010 ($185, Maisons Marques & Domaines):

Plan to put this baby in the cellar for a while. It comes from Les Bressards, a premier vineyard parcel known for muscular and long-lived Syrahs. Delas owns 25 acres of this cherished site. Not surprisingly, grapes are hand harvested on this steep, west facing hillside on the east bank of the Rhône river above Tain-Hermitage. This is a rich and powerful wine that will undoubtedly develop and unfold over time. The color is black ruby, quite dense suggesting the concentrated fruit in the glass. Aromas are plentiful with black cherry, cassis, leather and black olives. In the mouth, flavors are deep, rich and layered emboldened with ripe, rugged tannins. If you must drink it now, be sure to open it several hours in advance.
95 Rebecca Murphy Oct 9, 2012

Jean-Luc Colombo, Hermitage (Rhone Valley, France) "Le Rouet Rouge" 1999 ($66, Palm Bay):

The aromas of raspberry jam, vanilla, cedar and coffee signal a massive wine. On the palate, the wine delivers on this promise with ripe baked fruit character that is exceptionally concentrated within a frame of oak tannin. The aromas and flavors show some development now, but the wine will evolve further over eight-plus years. A very solid wine, yet not without nuances of flavor. 92 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 23, 2007

Jean-Luc Colombo, Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) "Le Rouet Rouge" 1999 ($66, Palm Bay): The aromas of raspberry jam, vanilla, cedar and coffee signal a massive wine. On the palate, the wine delivers on this promise with ripe baked fruit character that is exceptionally concentrated within a frame of oak tannin. The aromas and flavors show some development now, but the wine will evolve further over eight-plus years. A very solid wine, yet not without nuances of flavor. 92 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Feb 6, 2007

Chene Bleu, IGP Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) “Héloise” 2009 ($110, Wilson Daniels): Nicole Rolet and her team at Chene Bleu are shooting for the stars with their wines, aiming to be one of the Rhone’s top producers. And they are well on their way. This is a property to watch. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Viognier, Héloise has power coupled with exquisite finesse. The Viognier adds an alluring flowery element that lifts the wine so that it dances on the palate. Despite the lightness a foot, it has an almost paradoxical concentration and depth. Rolet refers to it as wine for gibier à plume (literally game with feathers), such as a roast duck. So if the financial gods were good to you last year, Chene Bleu’s Héloise would be a good reward this winter.
94 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2016

Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($14, Bowler):

Laudun, one of the 22 villages allowed to attach the village name to the Côte du Rhône Villages appellation, has applied for, and is likely to be elevated, to cru status, which would put it on a level with Rasteau and Cairanne, other named villages who were formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella. That means there is general agreement among French wine regulators, no easy group to satisfy, that the wines from this village are particularly distinctive and noteworthy. This mid-weight one from Domaine Pélaquié, one of the top producers in the region, certainly is. A blend of Grenache and Syrah, it delivers a harmonious balance of dark fruitiness and spicy savory nuances. It has good depth and remarkable refinement. You would never guess it weighs in at a 14.5 percent stated alcohol because there’s not a trace of heat, heaviness, or over ripeness. It’s not a powerhouse, but still makes a powerful presence. And it’s a bargain!
92 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023

Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2020 ($35, Kysela Pere et Fils):

Lirac, a lesser-known appellation across the Rhône River from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is, like that more well-known neighbor, also a cru of the Rhône, a distinction given to a village and its surroundings that makes distinctive wines. So, looking at the Rhône quality pyramid, Lirac sits with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other crus, at the top. Though all cru may be equal in the eyes of French regulators, the marketplace distinguishes among them by price, which does not always reflect quality. And that’s why you need to know about Lirac because its wines often hit above their weight. Take La Mordorée’s beefy Lirac La Dame Rousse for example. It delivers far more than its price suggests. A fifty-fifty blend of Grenache and Syrah, it displays a haunting tarriness intermingled with red and black fruits. It’s muscular without being boisterous or heavy. Ready to drink now, it would be a terrific choice with grilled lamb.
93 Michael Apstein May 2, 2023

La Bastide Saint Dominique, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve 2010 ($19, Simon N Cellars): An absolutely terrific bargain, this blend of 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah and

5% Mourvèdre is wonderfully rich and deep in flavor. The aromas remain rather reticent, but the flavors are very expressive, with dark cherry fruit that is so generous and dense that you’ll need to conduct a sensory search for the wine’s acidity and tannin. You’ll find them if you concentrate on the wine’s finish, but they are already remarkably integrated with the fruit notes. At its very best, Lirac can rival excellent expressions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape for a much lower price, and this wine definitely lives up to that potential. 92 Michael Franz Sep 3, 2013

Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhone Valley, France) "La Dame Rousse" 2005 ($17, Kysela Pere & Fils):

From the brilliant Rhône vintner Christophe Delorme comes this captivating red wine, which is broad and ample but never overwhelming, and redolent of red raspberry and juicy red plum fruitiness. Nature and nurture are both at work here: The intensity of flavor packed into 'Dame Rousse' is due in large part to the health of the biodynamically farmed grapes, which were raised in a meticulous 40-year-old vineyard. 91 Marguerite Thomas Jul 24, 2007

Château de Ségrès, Lirac (Rhône, France) 2006 ($23, Kysela):

Situated across the Rhône River from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Lirac remains badly overshadowed and undeservedly obscure among American consumers. However, that is certainly not the fault of Henri de Lanzac, who has probably done more with this bottling to show Lirac’s potential excellence to a North American audience than any other producer in the appellation. Comprised of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 5% each of Mourvèdre and Carignan, it is full of ripe fruit recalling dark berries and black cherries that are firmed and focused by ripe tannins in the finish. 90 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2009

Chateau la Canorgue, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) 2011 ($17, Polaner Selections):

Though located in the southern Rhône -- but really in the heart of Provence -- the Luberon is cooler than one would imagine because of its elevation. That explains why Syrah, a variety found more in the northern Rhone, is such an important component of the blends. The wines, such as this one, have more than a fleeting resemblance to their northern Rhone cousins at a considerably lower price point. This blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache and Carignan delivers a marvelous mixture of meatiness and hints of white pepper in addition to succulent fruit flavors. Mild tannins allow immediate enjoyment with hearty wintertime fare. Here’s a wine for slow simmered lamb shanks.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2014

Domaine Elodie Balme, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) 2021 ($29, Louis/Dressner Selections):

Elodie Balme symbolizes a new generation of winemakers in Rasteau, employing organic viticulture and making slightly less muscular wines that are formerly emblematic to this appellation. That said, no one would categorize this beauty, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvèdre, as a light wine. It leads with a fantastic array of herbal aromatics and then follows with the characteristic blue fruit and minerals of Rasteau accompanied by a not so usual refinement. Long and fresh, it has great purity and definition with a welcome touch of bitterness in the finish. It carries its 15-percent stated-alcohol effortlessly. A perfect choice for grilled lamb this summer.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 18, 2023

Famille Perrin, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Andéol” 2011 ($25, Vineyard Brands):

The wines under the “Famille Perrin” label (from the family behind the ultra-famous Chateau Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) have gotten strikingly better in the last couple of years, and this wine provides ample evidence for this upward swing. The fruit shows an uncanny combination of freshness and savory earthiness, with very subtle oak that lets the interplay between fruit and earth hold center stage. Delicious now, this is sufficiently structured to improve for another three or four years if you’d prefer to let the fruit recede a little in favor of an even more earthy profile.
91 Michael Franz Nov 18, 2014

Famille Perrin, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Andéol” 2012 ($25, Vineyard Brands):

Showing a classic southern Rhône profile, with a bouquet redolent of dried herbs and black pepper as well as ripe plummy fruit on the palate, this medium-weight red provides very satisfying drinking while also showing the potential to develop added nuances with a few years of cellaring.
91 Paul Lukacs Sep 22, 2015

Famille Perrin, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) Grenache and Syrah “L’Andéol” 2013 ($25, Vineyard Brands): From a complicated vintage (cold winter, blah spring, skimpy crop but of unexpectedly good quality) this extremely appealing wine is surprisingly lush and dense, with earthiness as well as bright fruit flavors, especially juicy red plums along with hints of cocoa and black pepper. It is medium bodied and has gentle but stimulating grippy tannins. Translucent ruby red, it’s also very pretty in the glass.
91 Marguerite Thomas May 17, 2016

Perrin & Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) "L’Andeol" 2007 ($25, Vineyard Brands): Rasteau, one of the villages in the southern Rhône Valley, has the

potential to produce distinctive wines and hence, the village name appears on the label. With a blend of Grenache (80%) and Syrah, the Perrins have fulfilled that potential with this wine. Spicy and herbal notes are a wonderful foil for the juicy, black fruit-like flavors. It’s a moderately sized wine, but lush and remarkably easy to drink at this stage because of polished tannins. 91 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2010

Domaine de Verquiere, Rasteau (Cotes du Rhone Village, Rhone Valley, France) 2003 ($12, Atlanta Improvement Company): Rasteau is particularly renowned as one of the very best villages of the Côtes du Rhône. The '03 Domaine de Verquière, 70 percent Grenache and 30 percent Syrah, is a very fine, complexly flavored, powerful wine with raspberry fruit flavors and hints of truffles. 90 Ed McCarthy Oct 24, 2005

Perrin et Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “l’Andeol” 2006 ($16): Rasteau is one of the villages under Côtes du Rhone Villages appellation that is allowed to put its name on the label because it has the potential to make better and more distinctive wines than the average of villages within the legally delimited region. With this bottling, Perrin & Fils has fulfilled that potential. A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, it has the expected depth and intensity of a wine from the southern Rhône Valley, but considerably more polish. More complex than many from the southern Rhône, it has a welcome elegance and glossiness to complement its power, which makes it appealing now. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008

Perrin et Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Andeol” 2005 ($19, Vineyard Brands): Rasteau is one of the 18 villages in the southern Rhone Valley that are capable of making more distinctive wine than the average for the region. Hence, it and the other 17 carry the village name on the label--as well as the appellation, Côtes du Rhône Villages--as opposed to the more anonymous, 'Côtes du Rhone' designation. A blend of mostly Grenache, 80%, along with Syrah, it has a slightly tarry, rustic edge at this stage. Sweet fruit emerges in the finish, indicating to me it just needs a little time--a year or so more--in the bottle before pulling the cork. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2007

La Renjardière, Rhône Valley (France) 2017 ($19, Cape Classics):

This superb wine is an offering within a set of new imports from Cape Classics, which has long specialized in wines from South Africa but is now working with French wines as well. The blend is Grenache 50%, Syrah 40% and a final 10% comprised of Mourvèdre and Cinsault. 2017 was a fairly hot year in the Southern Rhône, and this wine really benefitted from all that Syrah as well as the especially late-ripening Mourvèdre. It is a terrific Rhône perfectly poised between fresh fruitiness and subtly savory notes, with a long, soft finish. Cape Classics is working pretty aggressively to establish these new imports to the USA, so you might be able to beat the $19 price indicated here, but even if you can’t, you’ll still be getting a great value.
93 Michael Franz Feb 25, 2020

Perrin Family L’Oustalet, Rhône Valley (France) “L’Oustalet” 2011 ($10): This is a perfect example of how the price / quality ratio often makes little sense when it comes to wine. This enticing example, made from certified organic grapes, has a medium-light body and elegant bright fruity flavors with just a hint of that earthiness (some might say “funkiness”) that can be characteristic of wine from France’s Rhône region. It is fairly complex and has surprisingly good length. L’Oustalet is a delicious accompaniment to informal foods such as burgers, pizza, pulled pork or pasta (I had it recently with Pasta Bolognese which was an unbeatable pairing). This tastes like a wine that might cost at least twice as much as the ten dollars it generally goes for.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 3, 2013

Lionel Faury, Saint Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($30, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Saint Joseph is a favorite Northern Rhône appellation with accessible fruit, integrated terroir, and often significantly lower prices than other Northern Rhône appellations such as Cornas, Hermitage or Côte-Rôtie. This 2020 Saint Joseph shows classic cured meat, black pepper, and black fruit — all classic notes from the region. No aging required, this wine is ready to be enjoyed now. It has the power to pair with any red meat dish but can easily be enjoyed by the fireplace on a snowy day.
93 Vince Simmon Jan 17, 2023

Pierre Gonon, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2015 ($135, Kermit Lynch):

I drank this wine last month with dinner at the delightful bistro, Le Villaret, in Paris, and it knocked my proverbial socks off. Multi-layered, with intriguing echoes of bacon, black pepper, and barnyard-rich earth intermingled with deep, dark but definitely fresh fruit flavors, it was as compelling a bottle of wine as any I have enjoyed this year. I since have learned that Pierre Gonon’s wines have something of a cult following in the northern Rhône. Monsieur Ganon passed the operation of his winery to his sons back in 1989, and if this bottle is any indication, they produce wines of impeccable pedigree. Very little gets imported into the US, and prices quickly become inflated. The price indicated here is an average of what’s being asked by the few retailers with stock in the USA, and $135 for Saint-Joseph borders on the absurd, but the wine itself is simply superb.
98 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2018

Delas, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Sainte-Epine” 2016 ($75):

This house makes very good negociant wines and some killer bottlings from parcels that it owns in the various northern Rhône appellations (including a single-site Hermitage that is among the titans of the entire region). This is fantastic in 2016, with all the purity and suppleness that this growing season provided to those who knew what to do with it, but also real depth and density. Spicy, toasty oak notes are well tuned to the weight of the fruit, and are joined by a host of little aromatic and flavor details that make for very impressive complexity. Superb.
95 Michael Franz Sep 17, 2019

E. Guigal, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Vignes de L’Hospice” 2016 ($100):

This wine is certainly among the most famous and prestigious bottlings from Saint-Joseph, and though it is definitely not necessary to spend at this three-digit level to get a wine of the highest quality, the fact remains that this is a reference point to be taken seriously. Aged in 100% new oak barrels, this gets the same high-end treatment of all the other top end Guigal wines (including the three $400+ single site Côte-Rôtie offerings), for better or worse. (Meaning, better in excellent vintages when the juice can support the wood, and better for those with cellars and patience to let the oak be absorbed by the wine; worse for the impatient and those of more modest financial means.) In 2016, the fruit material is definitely up to the challenge posed by the wood, and though it will take years for the wine to integrate what now seems like a one-two combination punch of dense fruit and aggressive oak, this will definitely become a great wine. As an aside, I should note that while Guigal has enjoyed a nearly peerless reputation in the USA since the 1980s, thanks in large part to the lofty praise of Robert Parker, many of the European wine writers whom I’ve befriended when tasting in the Rhône think this house is over-rated, usually on the ground that the wines are insufficiently individuated because of the aggressive oaking applied to all of them. There’s certainly some validity to that, but the criticism dissipates in validity over time as the wines age, suggesting to my mind that the overwhelming blame for mistreatment falls on consumers rather than the producer.
95 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

Ferraton, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Lieu-Dit Saint-Joseph” 2016 ($55):

Ferraton is a house of long-standing that has made two major changes in direction in recent years, first in 1998 when Michel Chapoutier got involved and shifted viticulture in organic and then biodynamic directions before buying the operation outright in 2006. There’s a negociant side to the business, with quite good wines at attractively reasonable prices, but also some domaine wines made from excellent sites with old vines that were purchased decades ago by the Ferraton family. These latter bottlings seem to get better every year, yet prices are not quite keeping up with the pace of improvement, which is a word to the wise. This is sourced from a single site south of the village of Tournon that was planted in the 1950s on decomposed granite. It is marvelous wine, with excellent density and almost bottomless depth of flavor, but also a layered character with very open flavors showing a host of both fruity and savory nuances. The fruit is quite dark-toned, yet never hard nor unforgiving, and the gorgeous accents of violets, black olive tapenade, smoked meat and baking spices are enduringly appealing.
95 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

Yves Cuilleron, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) "Les Serines" 2017 ($50):

Cuilleron’s cellar releases wines every year that demonstrate the competitiveness of Saint-Joseph and Cornas with the historically more revered terroirs of Côte-Rotie and Hermitage; the four bottlings of Côte-Rotie are excellent, but the releases in 2017 from Saint-Joseph and Cornas are every bit as good when tasted side-by-side in close succession. This was the best of the 2017s from St-Jo (narrowly but clearly), with very impressive density and depth of flavor, but even more impressive purity of fruit. Indeed, my raw note taken when tasting this includes mention of “piercing purity,” as the fruit has uncanny freshness that punches straight through the wood and tannin to give this amazing lift and freshness for such a ripe, concentrated wine. Now being sold in Europe, I’ve yet to see this on offer in the USA, but keep this in mind and pounce when you see it. About 15,000 bottles were produced, and by the way, “Serines” isn’t a vineyard site, but rather a local synonym for Syrah. This is an old vine cuvee, and a stunning one in 2017.
95 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

André Perret, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) "Les Grisières" 2015 ($50, Kermit Lynch):

Saint-Joseph is rapidly becoming my favorite northern Rhône appellation. Its wines may not be as powerful as those from Hermitage, as exotic as ones from Côte-Rotie, or as elemental as examples from C0rnas, but they share all those attributes in a more measured totality. This is a wonderful example. Made from vines averaging 40 years of age, it is dark and intense, with an evocative bouquet and peppery, rustic notes that complement its primary fruit. My only reservation comes from its assertive tannins. They certainly should soften with time, but the future is always unpredictable, and they do prevent complete satisfaction right now. Decanting is definitely the order of the day.
94 Paul Lukacs May 15, 2018

Michelas Saint Jemms, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Terres d’Arce” 2017 ($45):

I had never even heard of this producer--much less tasted the wines--until happening upon some bottles in the midst of an open-call restaurant consulting project in the summer of 2018. The quality of those bottles was stunning, and my first chance to taste them amongst their peers while in the Rhône in April of 2019 confirmed my stateside impressions. This is a big, rich wine in the mold of 2017, with wonderful textural roundness and very impressive depth of flavor. Complex now but sure to become much more so as this loses some primary fruit intensity that will be backfilled by bottle bouquet, this is currently marked mostly by a one-two punch of fruit and oak. But that’s no knock on the wine: The fruit is fabulous, and the oak balanced just right.
94 Michael Franz Sep 17, 2019

P. J. Villa, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Tilde” 2016 ($50):

Concentrated and deeply flavorful, but also marvelously pure and fresh, this is obviously fantastic northern Rhône Syrah regardless of the appellation…and I’d be willing to bet that even most professional tasters who know the region well would mistake this for Hermitage if tasting blind. Aged very sensibly in 500 liter oak casks, a very sensibly modest 10% of which are new. The fruit material is so manifestly fantastic that it doesn’t need any heavy-handed cellar treatment, and thank goodness it wasn’t subjected to any. Not much made, and not easy to find…but you should try. I’ve already bought it.
94 Michael Franz Sep 17, 2019

Pierre Gonon, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2017 ($120):

During the past five years or so, the St-Jo Rouge from this house has become a cult wine (no other term will do) that is very difficult to find at any price, and very difficult to afford if found. I’ve got a couple of magnums of the 2012 in my cellar for which I paid about half what a 750 ml bottle now costs, which indicates just how crazy the cult has gone. (Note to cultists: My cellar is guarded by Marco, a Pit Bull / Rottweiler / Lab mix who doesn’t take kindly to intruders.) Usually it isn’t a good idea to chase cult wines, but there’s no doubting that this is excellent in 2017, showing rich, dark-toned fruit with impressive intensity but also a suave side with lots of little aromatic nuances, layered flavors, and just the right touch of wood. My close friend and WRO colleague Paul Lukacs tasted a bottle of this in a restaurant in Europe a couple of years ago…loved the wine…and then returned to the horrific discovery of what one must pony up to buy a bottle. Beware of undergoing the same sequence of experiences.
94 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

Yves Cuilleron, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Cavanos” 2017 ($40):

Cuilleron makes a lot of different wines (white and red, from multiple different appellations), and this one isn’t even shows on the website, so I can’t tell you much about it…except that it is terrific in 2017. By comparison to the lighter-but-lovely ““Les Pierres Sèches” bottling (which earned a mere 93 points), this shows both more muscle and more oak, but everything about this wine is so proportional and precise that it is already irresistible even at this young age. Pure notes of red and black berries are intertwined with suggestions of cured meat, minerals, toast and spices, with the savory, fruity and woody facets all beautifully integrated.
94 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

Domaine Durand, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Lautaret” 2017 ($35):

This is a house on the rise, with excellent wines at reasonable prices and a clearly upward trajectory in terms of overall quality and reputation. This release shows excellent floral aromatics and lots of detailed flavors for a wine that is as dark, deep and dense as it proves to be. The texture is very supple but hardly formless, as it starts lush but then finishes with good structure.
93 Michael Franz Sep 17, 2019

Domaine Georges Vernay, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Terre d’Encre” 2017 ($50):

This house makes wonderful whites as well as reds, all very tastefully wrought, and rarely showing even a whiff of any excess ripeness or extraction or wood. Unfortunately, they aren’t easy to find in the USA, and are usually much more expensive on our side of the Atlantic than in Europe. This particular wine shows the house’s stylish side in the form of alluring floral topnotes and lively, spicy flavors, but also shows seriousness in the form of admirable concentration and very flavorful fruit that easily outlasts the wood and tannins in the finish. Delicious St-Jo. My approximate price halves the difference between the $60 you’d likely pay in the USA and the $40 or so this will cost you in Europe.
93 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

François Villard, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Mairlant” 2016 ($32):

This delicious wine is notably more impressive than the “Reflet” St-Jo in 2016, though that wine is also very good and a fine representation of a wonderfully suave vintage. Yet this “Mairlant” bottling offers up more of everything, including toasty, spicy oak aromas that lead into very dark-toned fruit flavors with accents of cured meat, campfire embers, iodine and pen ink. A glass-staining wine with striking intensity. I see very little of this currently on offer in the USA, but the state-run monopoly in Pennsylvania is selling it for the amazingly reasonable sum of $32, which is tempting me to make the drive from DC.
93 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

Louis Cheze, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Anges” 2016 ($34):

I rarely see this bottling of Saint-Joseph from Cheze in the USA, whereas the “Ro-Rée” bottling is much easier to find. Still, this is the one you want if you can find it, as the 2016 displays terrific punch for a vintage that is more about poise than power, but also shows lovely perfume and a captivatingly layered character. Probably the single best wine I’ve ever tasted from this producer, and a steal if you can actually track it down.
93 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

M. Chapoutier, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2016 ($32, “Les Granilites”):

This isn’t easy to find in the USA, but the 2016 is so good that it is worth a search…even if that search requires a trip to France, Germany or Switzerland. Although it displays admirable density, the real attractions derive from the open, vivacious aromas and flavors, which are layered and complex to a degree that seems uncanny in relation to the wine’s physical concentration. In a word, magical--which is often a word that comes to mind when tasting Michel Chapoutier’s wines these days, whether from the eponymous house or the wholly-owned house of Ferraton. I have no idea whether the magic derives from biodynamic viticulture (which certainly incorporates explicitly magical elements) or sheer skill or some other sort of dark art…but I don’t much care because the wines are so arrestingly interesting.
93 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

Maison Les Alexandrins, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) Maison Les Alexandrins 2016 ($46):

This is a new house that makes some solid entry-level wines from purchased fruit and a few truly exceptional ones from estate-owned vines…Domaine designated, as in this case. I shows plenty of concentration and depth of flavor, but even more notable is its supremely silky texture, purity of fruit, masterful integration of oak and general classiness. Very impressive, but without trying too hard, this is excellent.
93 Michael Franz Sep 17, 2019

Sebastien Blachon, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Alban” 2017 ($35):

This house evidently knew just how to play the 2017 growing season, as this shows quite ripe fruit that is open and extremely expressive, with excellent intensity and depth of flavor, but also real complexity and a layered character with savory notes and undertones of campfire embers and spices that make for real interest to go with all the power.
93 Michael Franz Sep 17, 2019

Domaine Courbis, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Royes” 2017 ($48):

A bit light by reference to the norm among top producers (which certainly includes Courbis) in the 2017 vintage, this succeeds less on sheer power than on purity and prettiness. To be sure, the wine still has punch as well as depth of flavor and some notable firmness in the finish, but there are no hard edges, and this is a charmer rather than a killer.
92 Michael Franz Sep 17, 2019

E. Guigal, Saint-Joseph (Rhône, France) 2006 ($28, Ex Cellars/Vintus): Is there a wine producer anywhere it the world that is making a wider

range of wines with greater consistency or higher quality than Guigal? This is not a rhetorical question but a serious one, and my serious answer is: No. This Syrah-based beauty shows marvelously expressive aromas and flavors of red and black berries accented with scents of lavender and smoked meat and subtle, sweet spices. What is perhaps most impressive is that the wine is intensely aromatic and compellingly flavorful but still quite moderate in ripeness and weight, with a lithe freshness that makes it as enduringly appealing as it is complex and interesting. 92 Michael Franz Apr 12, 2011

Emmanuel Darnaud, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Lieu-Dit La Dardouille” 2017 ($45):

Showing the character of the vintage, this is big, dark, sappy and strong, with lots of muscle and structure but not all that much perfume at this early stage in its development. I have little doubt that it was in a rather dumb state when I tasted it in the Rhône in April, but even if I’m wrong and it doesn’t show more primary aroma as it evolves, the advent of tertiary aromas from bottle aging will certainly turn this into a wine with enough aromatic interest to offer an appealing introduction to the existing fireworks of flavor.
92 Michael Franz Sep 10, 2019

Ferraton Pére & Fils, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “La Source” 2015 ($32, Sera Wine Imports):

A real value leader among Northern Rhône wines. Saint-Joseph isn’t as well-known as its more high powered neighbors (Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie in particular), but strong renditions deliver much of their character at significantly more approachable prices. You get classic regional Syrah aromas and flavors, near-term enjoyability and a great price here -- what more could you ask? That said, don’t be afraid to lay some down if you like softer grip in your Rhône portfolio.
92 Rich Cook Mar 26, 2019

Les Vins de Vienne, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Lieu Dit Le Biez” 2016 ($42):

An excellent, interesting wine that shows both power and poise, this shows good density isn’t unusually concentrated for the vintage. What distinguishes it above all is its textural complexity, as a very soft (even creamy) mid-palate is followed by a finish with welcome grip from lots of fine-grained tannin. Delicious already, this will last and likely improve for at least another five years, but I doubt that many bottles will survive for long if those who buy them taste this early on.
92 Michael Franz Sep 17, 2019

Pierre Jean Villa, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Préface” 2009 ($40, Vintage ’59 Imports): $40 is a rather audacious price for a new producer’s entry level wine from Saint-Joseph in the northern Rhône, but then again, Pierre Jean Villa is

already looking more like a new star than just a new producer, and this wine would never be taken for an entry level release if I hadn’t let that cat out of the bag. It shows impressively saturated color, billowing aromas of fresh, ripe berry fruit, and alluring savory undertones. The flavors fit those same descriptors, and the finish shows just the right balance between sweet fruitiness and firm structure. This is bloody impressive. 92 Michael Franz Nov 13, 2012

Yves Cuilleron a Chavanay, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Cavanos” 2019 ($92, Grape Expectations):

Yves Cuilleron’s grandfather created the winery in 2015 using his oldest vines from his Syrah vineyard. He was the first to bottle their wine for the commercial market. This 100% Syrah offers enticing black cherry, blueberry, blackberry fruit with notes of black peppercorn that introduce delectable, juicy black fruit. It is a medium bodied wine with balancing acidity and integrated ripe tannins. We served it with Hungarian Mushroom Soup. It will also pair well with roast chicken or a roasted pork tenderloin.
92 Rebecca Murphy Dec 12, 2023

Domaine Cheze, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) "Cuvée Prestige de Caroline" 2004 ($37, Vintage '59 Imports): Saint-Joseph can--but rarely does--produce compelling Syrah that

can rival the famous wines of Cornas, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie. This is one of those rare renditions that plays in the big leagues despite a relatively affordable price. Intensely aromatic and deeply flavored, it features masculine notes of blackberries and roasted meat but also a more delicate floral accent and ripe, fine-grained tannins. This producer's "Cuvée Ro-Rée" is nearly as good for about $5 less, and either would be wonderful with roasted lamb. 91 Michael Franz Feb 20, 2007

E. Guigal, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($38, Vintus):

Guigal now owns prized vineyards in Saint Joseph and makes highly acclaimed wines from them, much as they do in Côte Rôtie. The grapes for this juicy bottling come from their own vineyards plus ones they buy from other growers. Although regulations allow for ten percent white grapes (Roussanne and Marsanne) in red St. Joseph, Guigal’s makes theirs entirely from Syrah. This punchy, robust red delivers succulent fruit balanced by savory meatiness. It’s a fine choice for hearty roasts and stews this fall and winter.
91 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2023

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($37, Vineyard Brands): A delicious example of what is often an overlooked northern Rhône red, this Saint-Joseph can hold its own with many wines from Hermitage or Cornas. It’s not as complete as the finest examples from those more prestigious appellations, but it’s every bit as good as most others. Like then, it is made with Syrah, and exhibits a distinctly earthy undertone beneath its ripe, dark fruit flavors.
91 Paul Lukacs Oct 7, 2014

P. J. Villa, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Preface” 2017 ($38):

This is Villa’s simple, fresh take on St-Jo, and it is always delicious and a pure pleasure to drink, even if never as impressive as the Tilde. In the warm, generous 2017 vintage it is especially easy to enjoy, if not so complex as to seem an object for deep contemplation. Soft and overtly fruity--but without seeming grapey or overly simple--it is impossible not to enjoy.
91 Michael Franz Sep 17, 2019

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Dom. de la Croix des Vignes” 2012 ($73, Frederick Wildman): This shows lovely, open, ripe fruit aromas with an interesting spice accent. The fruit is also quite accessible on the palate, with a very subtle and appealing note recalling cured meat. This accent note gives the wine a rather exotic character, yet it remains quite fresh in overall profile, with a nice mineral undertone. Delicious now, but sure to improve for up to a decade.
91 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2015

Domaine Vincent Paris, Saint-Joseph (Rhone Valley, France) “Les Côtes” 2014 ($26):

A lighter Saint-Joseph than most from this appellation, this pure Syrah tastes as much of fried bacon and animal fat as of fruit. Its smoky character will not appeal to everyone, but for fans of this sort of rustic, regional style, it promises to deliver abundant pleasure.
90 Paul Lukacs May 24, 2016

Jean-Luc Colombo, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Lauves” 2012 ($28, Palm Bay International): The 2012 vintage in both the northern and southern Rhône produced quite ripe, soft-textured wines. In the north, this often works to the advantage of particular wines, whereas many 2012s from the south are -- to my taste -- lacking in structure and grip. This Saint-Joseph manages to show plenty of structural definition thanks to fresh acidity and fine-grained tannin. It can nevertheless be enjoyed early on, as the wood component is quite modest, whereas the fruit is admirably fresh and open. Red and black berry flavor notes predominate, with a little whiff of blueberry for good measure.
90 Michael Franz Mar 17, 2015

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Saint-Joseph (Rhône, France) 2007 ($33, Vineyard Brands): This wine is one of four releases from a new joint venture involving

Nicolas Jaboulet and the Perrin family, famous for Chateau Beaucastel from Châteauneuf du Pape as well as other southern Rhône wines. Of the four wines released recently, this offers the most quality relative to its selling price. It is especially impressive in aromatic terms, with very interesting notes of flowers, spices, and smoked meat, followed by medium-bodied fruit that is very fresh, with lots of bright acidity. Time will tell whether it fills out and deepens in flavor as the acidity recedes over time, but for now the wine is already worth buying on the strength of its aromatic fireworks. 90 Michael Franz Sep 7, 2010

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($33, Vineyard Brands): Saint-Joseph too often tastes like a bit player on the northern Rhône stage, lacking the depth of flavor and peppery pungency that distinguish the best wines from more prestigious appellations. This wine, however, is a true star. It offers pungent dark fruit flavors that are enhanced by echoes of black pepper and cooked meats, and is deliciously long on the palate. Maison Nicolas-Perrin is a new partnership between the Perrin family of Château Beaucastel fame and Nicolas Jaboulet, formerly sales director for Paul Jaboulet Aîné (which was sold to the Frey family of Bordeaux’s Château La Lagune four years ago). This initial release constitutes a very promising beginning. 90 Paul Lukacs Sep 28, 2010

J.L. Chave, Saint-Joseph (Rhone Valley, France) "Offerus" 2003 ($27, Erin Cannon Imports):

Lush, ripe plum and berry fruit comes to the fore in this Syrah-based wine from the northern Rhône. Due to the intense heat of the 2003 summer in Western Europe, these fruit flavors prove dominant. Beneath them, though, lurk notes reminiscent of tar, pepper and leather, the telltale signs of good Saint-Joseph and other wines made from Syrah in the Rhône. 89 Paul Lukacs Jan 23, 2007

Guigal, St. Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Vignes de l’ Hospice” 2007 ($145, Vintus): Hermitage and St. Joseph have precisely the same soil because when the Rhône River turned south, it sliced through the granite hill instead of coursing around it, putting Hermitage on the eastern bank and St. Joseph on its western bank. Conventional wisdom has it that wines from St.

Joseph are lighter and earlier maturing because the Syrah vines face east and receive less afternoon sun during the critical time just before harvest, resulting in less ripe grapes. Well, true to form, Guigal is redefining conventional wisdom, much as he did in Côte Rôtie with his single vineyard bottlings of La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque. Guigal acquired land in St. Joseph with the purchase of the Grippat firm in 2000 and have spent years restoring the steeply terraced vineyards. Now, they have Vignes de l’ Hospice to add to their single vineyard offerings. It’s a concentrated, but not overdone, mixture of meaty/beefy elements and a smattering of bright black pepper notes. Great complexity, length and Guigal’s signature polish puts it head and shoulders above any other wine from St. Joseph. 97 Michael Apstein May 8, 2012

Pierre Gonon, St. Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($53, Kermit Lynch):

Wow. You don’t normally expect this kind of power and finesse from a wine from St. Joseph. But some producers are now demonstrating that St. Joseph can be a locale for great wines. Though it’s a long narrow appellation on the west bank of the Rhône, a portion of it at its southern end sits directly across from Hermitage and indeed, the granite rock in which the vines are planted is identical to the soil across the river. Over the millennia, the Rhône cut this piece of granite into two, leaving a large chunk of either side of the river. Gonon’s 2012 St. Joseph has a Hermitage-like meatiness complemented by just the right amount of spice. Underlying minerality comes through so this is by no means a fruit-bomb. A big wine to be sure, it’s polished enough to allow you to enjoy it now with a long-simmered beef dish. Its balance and finesse suggests that you will be rewarded by cellaring it -- that is, if you can resist its charms now.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2015

Vidal-Fleury, St. Joseph Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($30, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): Although owned by Guigal, the Rhône’s leading producer, since the

mid-1980s, Vidal-Fleury remains a separate commercial entity with a separate winemaking team. Nonetheless, the elegance and grace for which Guigal is known shows in this wine. Engaging black peppery notes complement the black fruit flavors. Fine tannins and a polished texture make it ideal for this year’s grilling season. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2012

Cave de Tain, St. Joseph Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) “Esprit de Granite” 2009 ($22, Cognac One):

The appellation of St. Joseph lies on the right (West) bank of the Rhône, facing east and its more famous neighbor, Hermitage. Though the granite soil is similar to that of Hermitage and the grape (Syrah) is the same, the wines are lighter and earlier maturing because the east-facing exposure means less sunlight--and ripeness--during the harvest season. True to form, this one from, the well-respected local coop, is enjoyable now, delivering abundant black fruit flavors intertwined with peppery notes. It’s a burly wine, nicely suited for hearty fare or a grilled flank steak. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2012

Château de Ségres, Tavel (Rhône, France) Rosé 2008 ($20, Kysela): This is a classic rendition of southern French rosé that features vivid fruit flavors but finishes fresh and dry. Notes of red cherries and wild strawberries are accented with undertones of fresh flowers, with a bracing edge of citrus acidity providing definition and lift. Great for quaffing on its own, or for pairing with a wide range of summer foods. 90 Michael Franz Jun 16, 2009

Domaine Lafond, Tavel (Rhône, France) "Roc-Epine" 2004 ($13, Alain Junguenet, Wines of France): A beautiful dry rosé, perfect for warm weather sipping, this wine has sufficient depth of flavor to complement all but the heartiest meat dishes. At the same time, it tastes fresh and bright, with great length on the palate. It's as fine a rosé as I've had this summer. 90 Paul Lukacs Sep 1, 2005

Maison Bouachon, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) “La Rouvière” Rosé 2008 ($17, SWF Americas): Clean and crisp, with red berry fruit flavors, this wine lacks the nuanced subtlety that distinguishes the best Tavel rosés. It’s certainly a satisfying summer sipper, but fans of the sort of lavender, thyme, and other dried Provencal herb echoes that can seem so enticing in southern French rosés will find it wanting. 86 Paul Lukacs Jul 21, 2009

Tardieu-Laurent, Vacqueras (Rhône, France) Vieilles Vignes 2008 ($42, Wilson Daniels): Five different growers provided the fruit for this old-vine bottling, which is blended from 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah that was grown on vines averaging 50 years in age. Smoky and meaty aromas get it off to a terrific start, and fruit recalling black plums and cherries really follows through in convincing fashion, with deep flavors and a very persistent finish. 91 Michael Franz May 31, 2011

Perrin & Fils, Vacquéras (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Christins” 2005 ($22, Vineyard Brands): The Perrin Vacquéras vineyard is managed by the team from Château de Beaucastel. With 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah grapes, the wine may have slightly less depth of flavor than its pricier Beaucastel cousin, but it is still beautifully structured, with aspects of red cherry, sage, black licorice and cedar. 90 Marguerite Thomas May 8, 2007

Famille Perrin, Vacqueyras (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Christins” 2011 ($32, Vineyard Brands): Extremely powerful, with terrific density and depth of fruit, this may be the single best release I’ve ever tasted from this Famille Perrin line of wines. I confess that, after the amazing vintages in the southern Rhône Valley in 2009 and 2010, it did not seem possible that a 2011 could rise to a comparable level of excellence, but this wine manifestly does exactly that. There’s so much gorgeous fruit in this wine that it can be enjoyed now with robust foods, but it will continue to unwind complexities for a full decade if you can manage to keep your mitts off of it.
93 Michael Franz Nov 26, 2013

Domaine Saint Damien, Vacqueyras (Rhône Valley, France) "Selection" 2021 ($27, Weygandt-Metzler Importing):

This is a delightfully juicy red wine made of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah made by the Saurel family who have been caring for vineyards for since 1821. Joel and Amie Saurel run the winery operating the winery, and their son Romain is the winemaker. Their vineyards are certified organic by Agriculture Biologique. Grenache aromas and flavors of black cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and strawberry mingle with Syrah’s black fruits and earthy black pepper notes with hints of dried woody herbs.
92 Rebecca Murphy Nov 7, 2023

Perrin & Fils, Vacqueyras (Rhône, France) "Les Christins" 2004 ($22, Vineyard Brands): This is part of a series of high-end, single village, southern Rhône bottlings from the family behind the famous Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape. All are good, two are excellent, and this is the best of the best. Intense aromas of roasted game and soy work very nicely with the core of dark berry fruit, and restrained wood keeps all of these interesting notes in the forefront. Very complex and expressive for a young wine, this is ready to rip with food, but quite capable of developing in a positive way for another five to eight years. 91 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Perrin et Fils, Vacqueyras (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Christins” 2005 ($22, Vineyard Brands): Vacqueyras is a village in the southern Rhône Valley, formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella, that has convinced authorities that it makes more distinctive wines than the southern Rhône norm and should have its own appellation. Despite precisely the same blend (Grenache, 80% and Syrah, 20%) as the Perrin Rasteau and the same winemaking team, this is a much more refined and complex wine. Very aromatic and herbal, it has finer-sweeter--tannins than the Rasteau, which start to melt away with a half hour of aeration. It is amazing how the same blend, done by the same winemaking team, can be so different. Tasting these wines side-by-side is a wonderful treat for anyone who wants to see why the French insist on naming wines by reference to place rather than grape variety. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2007

Domaine Montirius, Vacqueyras (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Clos” 2010 ($26):

This is a classic example of Vacqueyras, one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village. (Châteauneuf-du-Pape is likely the best known of the southern Rhône cru.) This Vacqueyras is big, but not overdone, conveying a lovely combination of herbs, spice and dark fruit. This attractively rustic wine would be perfect as the temperature falls and the hearty stews and casseroles of winter appear.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2015

Patrick LeSec, Vaqueyras (Rhone, France) Vielles Vignes 2003 ($27, Patrick LeSec /Chemin des Vins): The Southern Rhone handled the heat of 2003 much better than most areas of France and, as a result, turned out some fabulous wines. This is one of them. Meaty and full-blown, it retains remarkable succulence and balance. Lovely now for robust fall fare, it should develop nicely over the next decade. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006

Château Unang, Ventoux (Rhône, France) “La Croix” 2007 ($35, Vintage ’59 Imports): A blend of 45% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 15% Carignan, this wine tastes like a prestige Cuvée of Châteauneuf-du-Pape from an outstanding vintage--for about half the price. The fruit shows both red and black notes but leans a little toward black, with an uncanny balance between pure freshness and ripe opulence. Smoky, meaty accents and a faint mineral tinge lend added interest, and there’s just enough ripe tannin to frame the fruit without drying the finish. A thoroughly convincing wine. 93 Michael Franz Dec 28, 2010

La Vieille Ferme, Ventoux (Rhône, France) 2009 ($10, Vineyard Brands): The Perrin family, owners of the renowned Chateau Beaucastel in Châteauneuf du Pape, have consistently made solid “everyday” wines under their Vieille Ferme label from grapes and wine they purchase. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, it delivers a mid-weight combination of fresh cherry-like fruit flavors and zesty spice notes. A good choice for anything from pizza to burgers. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 21, 2010

Chêne Bleu, Ventoux AOC (Rhône Valley, France) “Abélard" 2012 ($84, Wilson Daniels):

At nine years of age, this Grenache based wine is at a very graceful moment in its life. Its color is dark ruby with a touch of amber in the rim and soft, rich black cherry, spicy strawberry aromas. Its dark fruit flavors are very smooth and integrated with lifted acidity and smooth as silk tannins. It is not a surprise that this wine is made primarily of Grenache. Xavier and Nicole Rolet were sponsors of the International Grenache Symposium in 2010. That event attracted the best Grenache producers in the world, along with some of the greatest lovers of the grape and its wines to share their Grenache love with the world. Chêne Bleu was created on a property with a written history from 1026. It is located within the UNESCO-designated Mont Ventoux Biosphere Reserve, an 81,000-hectare (more than 200,000 acres) nature preserve that has been set aside in recognition of its diversity of flora and fauna and as a bird sanctuary.
94 Rebecca Murphy Aug 31, 2021

Le Pigeoulet en Provence, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) 2008 ($16): The Brunier family, owners of the prestigious Château du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf du Pape, produces this Grenache-based wine from vineyards located in two distinct areas. One lies just outside of the Châteauneuf appellation while the other is in the Côtes du Ventoux area. Hence, it carries the more general and “lesser” designation of Vin de Pays. But don’t let that deter you from trying this delightful mid-weight wine. Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault in the blend provide plenty of spice and herbal influences that balance the Grenache’s bright red fruit notes. The few tannins are barely noticeable, which means it’s a perfect choice for hamburgers on the grill this summer. In case you’re wondering, Pigeoulet means “little one” in the local Provencal dialect. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2011

Domaine de Saint-Antoine, Vin de Pays du Gard (Rhône, France) Rosé 2004 ($9, Robert Kacher Selections): This bottling shows superb balance between fruity expressiveness and dry seriousness. Flavor notes of bright red cherries and plums predominate, with nice freshness thanks to seamlessly integrated acidity. With a surprisingly long finish for a wine of this type and price, this is a strikingly impressive wine. 89 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2005

Mas de Guiot, Vin de Pays du Gard (Rhone Valley, France) 2005 ($10, Robert Kacher): An excellent value, this full-fleshed, peppery Rhône red tastes satisfyingly deep and rich. Made with 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, it offers an aroma redolent of dried herbs and dark spice in addition to succulent fruit. With the weak dollar, it's hard to find good Côtes-du-Rhône reds for $10 these days. This Vin de pays fills in admirably. Paul Lukacs Mar 6, 2007

Cuilleron, Vin des Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes (Rhône Valley, France) Syrah 2005 ($18, Neal Rosenthal): Do not worry about all the fine print identifying the origin of this wine. Just remember it is Syrah made by Yves Cuilleron, one of the finest producers in the Rhône, where that grape is native. Its classy, peppery profile is a great example of how Syrah fares in cooler climates. Nuances of bacon fat remind me of wines from the neighboring Côte Rôtie area. The price tag tells me it's a bargain. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006

Famille Perrin, Vinsobres (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Cornuds” 2018 ($20, Vineyard Brands): Vinsobres is a village withing the southern Rhône that has (deservedly) worked its way up the food chain to become an appellation in its own right, alongside the likes of Rasteau, Vacqueyras, Gigondas and, yes, Châteauneuf du Pape. Whether wines from the village will ever earn comparable respect or command

comparable prices remains to be seen, but what is already apparent is that it will take wines like this to achieve that result. A model of purity and poise without seeming remotely wimpy, this is fresh and elegant, with lovely aromas and flavors recalling lilac blossoms, Asian spices, red raspberries, red cherries and more, with some savory notes grudgingly emerging as this wine warms and loosens with aeration. Those savory notes will become more prominent with time, and buyers would be very well advised to cellar this for another five years to let them join the party fully. But after a year like 2020, nobody could be blamed for wanting to party right now, and this will serve the purpose if that’s your aim. But again, this is a wine that’s all about purity and precision, and if you want to know how good this appellation can be, give this baby some time to develop.
92 Michael Franz Jan 12, 2021

Perrin & Fils, Vinsobres (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Cornuds” 2007 ($22, Vineyard Brands): This fresh and vivacious wine hails from France’s southern Rhône region. It has a deep ruby color, a reasonably full body and a profusion of dark red fruit flavors, but it is never overwhelmingly heavy or intense. Supple and juicy, its notes of earthiness and peppery spice add further interest. 90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 16, 2010

Perrin et Fils, Vinsobres (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Cornuds” 2007 ($22, Vineyard Brands):

The French authorities elevated Vinsobres to its own appellation--on the same level as Châteauneuf du Pape--in 2005. They don’t have the grandeur--nor the price--of Châteauneuf, but like their Rhône neighbors to the south, they can be enjoyed when young. Combine a great vintage with the exceptional talents of the Perrin family--owners of Château Beaucastel--and with this Vinsobres you have an excellent wine for hearty wintertime fare. It balances juicy black and red fruit flavors with spice and subtle gaminess, all enlivened with bright acidity.

Perrin & Fils, Vinsobres (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Cornuds” 2009 ($16): Quite dark fruit flavors introduce this slightly herbal red Rhône. Still very youthful, it definitely benefits from exposure to air, as its initially closed bouquet opens to reveal a mélange of aromas which extend onto the palate and end in a lingering, flavorful finish. A fine bargain in a well-structured and balanced French wine.
89 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2012

Serre Besson, Vinsobres AOC (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($28, Latitude Wines):

Located in the mountains north of Gigondas and Vacqueyras, Vinsobres is one of Southern Rhône’s highest elevation appellations. The region’s elevation is known for magnificent terraced vineyards and, in 2011, Serre Besson began restoring several vineyards in their possession. I find Vinsobres to be the unique middle-ground between Southern and Northern Rhône styles. Serre Besson’s Vinsobres is still Grenache-dominant, but it is the Syrah component that dominates this wine. The blend is 60% Grenache Noir, 36% Syrah, 2% Cinsault, and 2% Mourvrèdre. Big blackberry and black cherry are augmented by red plum, red licorice, fresh new leather, and red cherry notes. Serre Besson walks the line of fruity expression while maintaining the terroir-dominance that Francophiles are looking for in their French wine choices.
89 Vince Simmon Apr 9, 2024

Forge Cellars, Vinsobres AOP (Rhône Valley, France) “Pièce by Pièce” 2021 ($28):

Founded in 2011, Forge Cellars is the handiwork of Louis Barruol, winemaker at Chatêau Saint Cosme, and Richard Rainey. Together, they wanted to make world class Riesling and they did. Piece-by-Piece is a side project that is bringing in Chatêau Saint Cosme’s Vinsobres under the Forge Cellars label. Saint Cosme’s 2023 newsletter has an entire section dedicated to Vinsobres, Louis is clearly a fan and it is easy to see why. This Vinsobres is dark and earthy displaying both incredibly ripe dark fruit notes ranging from black cherry to almost-blue boysenberry and earthy leather, and wet concrete notes. The wine is also surprisingly loud and large, in part thanks to its heavy-handed 14.5 abv. The connective tissue between Forge and Chateau Saint Cosme is fun to watch as the two wineries have distinctly similar but different goals. Both use techniques to produce world-class expressions with grapes that produce wines true to their terroir. Only, one is focused on Pinot Noir and Riesling and the other, Rhône varietals.
92 Vince Simmon Feb 27, 2024

Perrin & Fils, Vinsorbes (Rhône Valley, France) 2007 ($22, Vineyard Brands): Like the Perrin Rasteau (also reviewed this week), the Vinsorbes, from another named village in the southern Rhône, is a marvelous example of what the much touted 2007 vintage delivered in the Rhone Valley. The blend is flipped--Syrah, with 65%, dominates the Grenache--but the results no less enjoyable. The peppery notes are more apparent and, in an odd way, amplify the black fruit signature. The fine tannins are nicely integrated in this generous wine, making it another good choice for current consumption. But have no fear, this wine will develop beautifully over at least the next five years, so there’s no rush to drink it if you buy it by the case. 91 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2010

Château Guiot, Costiéres de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2006 ($10, Robert Kacher Selections): You'll find everything you could want in a dry rosé in this Grenache/Syrah blend--bright red berry fruit girded by flavors that echo dried herbs and spice (especially pepper), and above all invigorating freshness. No, it's not multi-layered or profoundly complex, but then it's a wine, not a philosophical tome. And as such, it's simply delicious. 90 Paul Lukacs May 8, 2007

Château Grand Cassagne, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) 2014 ($10, Robert Kacher): The Costières de Nîmes lies just to the west of the Rhône River as it enters the Mediterranean. Long a source for excellent values, the area yields a wide range of red, white and rosé wines. The 2014 Château Grand Cassagne Rosé entices with its effusive scents of strawberries, flowers, subtle dried herbs and savory spices. The flavors reflect its sunny Mediterranean heritage with juicy strawberry and raspberry fruits backed by an suggestions of sun-baked herbs and a lively peppery spice at the finish. It is a delicious aperitif as well as a sensational companion for seared salmon and warm-weather fare.
89 Wayne Belding Sep 1, 2015

Château de Campuget, Costières de Nîmes (France) Rosé "Tradition de Campuget" 2013 ($10, Dreyfus Ashby & Co):

The 2013 Campuget Rosé continues a string of successes by this southern French estate. Pale salmon in color, it has a bouquet of raspberries and strawberries followed by éléments of dried marjoram, wildflowers and white pepper. The flavors are délicate and bright with juicy raspberry and red cherry fruit underlain by the classic dried herb and spice nuances of southern French rosés. It’s perfect both as an apéritif or a companion to lighter summer fare of all sorts.
88 Wayne Belding May 20, 2014

Chateau Grande Cassagne, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) 2006 ($12, Robert Kacher Selections):

Although still a pleasure to drink, this wine seems chunkier and more obviously sweet than in prior vintages, when it has often been one of my favorite rosés from southern France. There's plenty of acidity, but the fruit component is just a bit overt and the wine never really gets to dryness in the finish. That won't bother most consumers. 84 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2007

Château la Canorgue, Côtes du Luberon (Rhône, France) Rosé 2008 ($17, Beaune Imports): A very pleasant warm weather quaffer made with Grenache and Syrah grapes, this southern Rhône rosé offers the region’s typical undercurrent of dried herbs (especially thyme) to enhance its bright, red berry fruit. Lighter in body that some renditions, it is a delightful picnic or outdoor lunch wine. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 4, 2009

Chateau Mont-Redon, Cotes du Rhone (France) Reserve Rosé 2016 ($15, Frederick Wildman and Sons):

This is classic rosé from the Rhone Valley, showing vivid notes of wild strawberry with mouth-watering acidity and a clean, crisp finish. It's a blend of Grenache (70 percent) and Syrah (30 percent) showing exceptional balance and good persistence. Bring on the sunshine!
90 Robert Whitley Jun 19, 2018

Ferraton Pere & Fil, Cotes du Rhone (Rhône Valley, France) “Samorens" Rosé 2018 ($14, Sera Wine Imports):

A savory rosé that combines an element of grilled peach with the more expected strawberry, lemon and white pepper characteristics. It’s on the viscous side of the rosé spectrum, with a cleansing acidic pop at the end that keeps things going. Salads or mild appetizers will pair well.
88 Rich Cook May 21, 2019

Les Dauphins, Cotes du Rhone (France) Reserve 2013 ($13): Dry rose from the south of France can be expensive in many cases, but there are exceptions. Les Dauphins is a summer wine for al fresco dining if ever there was, showing delicious aromas of strawberry and raspberry, with fresh acidity and good balance. It would well be my "house" rose this summer! 87 Robert Whitley Apr 21, 2015

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (France) Rosé 2014 ($12):

Just beyond Provence, the Rhône Valley puts out some pretty powerful competition in the rosé category and famed winery E. Guigal consistently reveals a refreshing expression of the region. The 2014 Rosé is delicious and delicate, with a mélange of fresh summer strawberries, raspberries and cherry that elegantly funnels into a lingering mineral-driven finish. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, this pretty pale pink number is a perfect partner for outdoor picnics.
95 Jessica Dupuy Apr 12, 2016

Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2015 ($17, Kysela Wines): The 2015 Domaine de la Mordorée Côtes du Rhône Rosé is a lovely example of this exciting Rhône Valley wine. A vibrant pink in color, it has a bouquet of ripe cherries and strawberries followed by hints of wildflowers, sun-baked herbs and anise. The flavors are pure and juicy with strawberry and red cherry fruit enhanced by the classic dried herb and spice character of southern French rosés. Good rosés are versatile food companions and especially nice on a hot summer day. The Mordorée Rosé will impress you with its rich and satisfying texture as well as its vibrant fruit. Blended from Grenache (40%), Syrah (30%), Cinsault (15%), Carignan (10%) and Mourvèdre (5%).
92 Wayne Belding Jul 26, 2016

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2014 ($19, Vintus Wines):

Guigal is one of the best producers in the Rhône Valley, making wines from both their own vineyards and from purchased fruit. This rosé is an example of the latter. And it is as good a French rosé as I’ve had this summer. The wine offers bright fruit redolent of red berries as all good rosés do, but it then augments those flavors with an intriguing nutty bitterness tinged with echoes of citrus in the finish -- all of which gives it real complexity. That complexity means that it is not just for summer sipping, but will provide satisfying drinking at any time of year. (It would be great with Thanksgiving dinner.) The folks at Guigal clearly are at the top of their game, and this wine, particularly when discounted, as it often is, offers outstanding value.
91 Paul Lukacs Aug 11, 2015

Famille Perrin, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve 2022 ($14, Vineyard Brands):

The Perrin family got their start in wine by acquiring Château Beaucastel, an important producer in the Rhône Valley. In 1950 they began farming their vineyards organically. In 1974 they converted to biodynamic practices. This delicious rosé is one of many wines they produce, but it is clear that they give it their special attention. It is a pretty pink wine made with a blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. It has juicy flavors of fresh cherry, strawberry and raspberry animated by lively acidity. Serve it as an apéritif or at brunch.
90 Rebecca Murphy Jan 2, 2024

Ferraton Pere & Fils, Côtes Du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) "Samorens", Rosé 2017 ($15):

Strawberry, white pepper, watermelon and citrus ride a dry styled palate into a mouthwatering finish that just might keep the sun up in the sky a minute or two longer -- at least in your mind. Pair with concerts in the park and fried chicken, of course.
90 Rich Cook May 8, 2018

La Nerthe, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) "Les Cassagnes" Rosé 2017 ($16, Kobrand):

The 2017 la Nerthe Côtes du Rhône Rosé is a lovely example of this exciting Rhône Valley wine. A vibrant pink in color, it offers aromas of ripe cherries and strawberries followed by hints of wildflowers, sun-baked herbs and anise. The flavors are pure and juicy with strawberry and red cherry fruit enhanced by the classic dried herb and spice character of southern French rosés. Good rosés are versatile food companions and especially nice on a hot summer day. The La Nerthe Rosé will impress you with its rich and satisfying texture as well as its vibrant fruit. A blend of Grenache (50%), Cinsault (20%) and Mourvèdre (30%).
90 Wayne Belding Jul 10, 2018

Les Dauphins, Côtes du Rhône (France) 2014 ($14, Monsieur Touton): Rose petal pink, with suggestion of strawberries and other summery fruits, this rosé is relatively full bodied. It is also forthright enough in flavor to be served not just as an aperitif, but also as an accompaniment to outdoor summer fare such as ratatouille, sausages, grilled chicken, and perhaps even as a refreshing alternative to the usual big red wine with burgers.
90 Marguerite Thomas May 17, 2016

Louis Bernard, Côtes du Rhône (France) Rosé 2018 ($17, Boisset USA Imports):

Introduced by an invitingly orangey-pink color, Louis Bernard rosé goes on to unveil a generous array of aromas and palate pleasing flavors. Côtes du Rhône is the second largest appellation in France although it may surprise you to learn that rosé represents only ten percent of the region’s total production. Poultry, ham and a variety of seafood dishes all pair nicely with this well balanced rosé.
90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 29, 2020

M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) "Belleruche" 2010 ($13): This rosé has a gorgeous pale salmon-pink color, with aromas of strawberries and citrus. The wine is fresh and light, with red berry flavors and a refreshing crispness. 90 Tina Caputo Aug 2, 2011

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Côtes du Rhône (France) “Parallele 45” Rosé 2017 ($13, Skurnik Wines):

This fine pink wine is a bracing blend of classic Rhône grape varieties (50% Grenache, 40% Cinsault and 10% Syrah). As the back label informs us, the wine is named for the 45th Parallel, which crosses the Rhône Valley passing through some of the estates and vineyards belonging to Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Juicy and refreshing but not at all one dimensional, this rosé is fruity without being sweet. It has good depth of flavor, which is especially impressive given its very affordable price. Serve it as an aperitif or to accompany casual foods -- grilled shrimp comes to mind.
90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 6, 2019

Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) "Belleruche" 2015 ($12, Terlato): Springtime weather makes me thirst for fine, dry southern French rosés. The 2015 Belleruche Côtes du Rhône Rosé from Chapoutier offers the combination of liveliness and refreshment that I seek. Vivid pink in color, it entices with its aromas of strawberries, lilac, and subtle dried herbs. The flavors reflect its sunny Rhône Valley provenance with bright strawberry and raspberry fruits enhanced by its intriguing herbal complexity. It’s a delicious dry rosé that will brighten up many a summertime soirée.
89 Wayne Belding May 17, 2016

Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2022 ($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): Frequent WineReviewOnline r

eaders may know I am not a fan of rosés in general because they are often vapid and lack character. Not this one. Domaine de la Mordorée has fashion one from a blend Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault that delivers lively refreshment, delicate red fruitiness, and complementary spice.
89 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2019 ($16, Vintus):

The 2019 Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé offers up exactly what is desired for a summertime sipper. It combines delicious, fresh fruit with a rich texture and a juicy and refreshing finish. A pale pink in color, it shows enticing strawberry and cherry fruit scents backed by floral and herbal elements. The flavors are bright and lively with cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruits underscored by the floral and herb tones. Blended from Grenache (70%), Cinsault (20%) and Syrah (10%), it’s a perfect wine to serve with your favorite grilled foods, or just to enjoy on the patio while you watch a summer sunset.
89 Wayne Belding Jul 21, 2020

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2020 ($16, Vintus):

The 2020 Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé is a delicious summertime sipper. It combines delicious, fresh fruit with a rich texture and a juicy and refreshing finish. A pale pink in color, the bouquet shows strawberry and cherry fruit scents backed by floral and herbal elements. The flavors are pure and lively with cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruits enhanced by the floral and herbal elements. It’s a great wine to serve with your favorite grilled foods, or just to enjoy on its own.
89 Wayne Belding Jun 29, 2021

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2017 ($16):

The 2017 Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé offers up exactly what is desired for a summertime sipper. It combines delicious, fresh fruit with a rich texture and a juicy and refreshing finish. A pale pink in color, it shows enticing strawberry and cherry fruit scents backed by floral and herbal elements. The flavors are bright and lively with cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruits underscored by the floral and herb tones. It’s a perfect wine to serve with your favorite grilled foods, or just to enjoy on the patio while you watch a summer sunset. Blended from Grenache (70%), Cinsault (20%) and Syrah (10%).
89 Wayne Belding Jul 31, 2018

Domaine de la Janasse, Côtes du Rhône (Rhone, France) Rosé 2005 ($13, Eric Solomon/European Cellars): Comprised of 55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Carignan, 5% Cinsault and 5% Mourvèdre, this delicious rosé combines true dryness and delicacy with real substance and depth of flavor. Beautifully balanced and exceedingly versatile, this is an exemplary wine. 88 Michael Franz May 30, 2006

Les Trois Couronnes, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2020 ($12, The Other Wine & Spirits):

The 2020 Les Trois Couronnes Côtes du Rhône Rosé is a lovely example of this refreshing Rhône Valley wine. A vivid pink in color, it offers aromas of ripe cherries and strawberries followed by hints of wildflowers and sun-baked herbs. The flavors are pure and juicy with strawberry and red cherry fruit enhanced by the classic dried herb and spice character of southern French Rosés. Good Rosés are versatile food companions and especially nice on a hot summer day. The Les Trois Couronnes Rosé will please you with its vibrant fruit and refreshing style.
88 Wayne Belding Jun 8, 2021

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Parallèle 45 Rosé” 2008 ($13, Frederick Wildman):

A pleasant, well-balanced rosé, made with Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, this wine tastes of red summer berries and savory spice. It is not as vibrant as some other southern French rosés, so is best suited for drinking with fairly light fare.

Ferraton Pére & Fils, Cotes Du Rhône AOC (France) “Samorens” Rosé 2016 ($14, Sera Wine Imports): A crisp, tart rosé that's long on cherry and raspberry, with accompanying touches of bay leaf and lime zest -- a perfect, very dry summer pink that will join tossed salads or mild cheeses beautifully. Contains 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Cinsault.
90 Rich Cook Jun 20, 2017

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Rosé (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2022 ($19, Vintus Wines):

The 2022 Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé is a delicious summertime sipper. It combines fresh fruit with a rich texture and a juicy and refreshing finish. A pale pink in color, the bouquet shows strawberry and cherry fruit scents backed by floral and herbal elements. The flavors are pure and lively with cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruits enhanced by the floral and herbal elements. It's a great wine to have around when you decide to fire up the grill.
90 Wayne Belding Aug 8, 2023

M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône Rosé (Rhône Valley, France) “Belleruche" 2021 ($14):

Whether it is for the red, white or, yes, now the Rosé, Chapoutier’s Belleruche line delivers. A blend of Grenache (75%) with equal amounts of Cinsaut and Syrah, this Rosé gets your immediate attention with its unusual salmon-bronze color. It displays an attractive aroma of fresh strawberries with a hint of herbs. It is medium light bodied but balanced with lively berry-cherry flavors. With just enough acidity, it finishes clean and smooth. Good value here, and don’t be scared off by the vintage date if you see a bottle of this on offer.
88 Norm Roby Dec 5, 2023

Domaine de Mourchon, Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret (Rhône, France) Rosé 2005 ($13, House of Burgundy): Rosé doesnt get any classier than this lovely wine. Subtle, light in color and essentially dry, it is still charmingly expressive, showing just enough soft wild strawberry fruit to be satisfyingly flavorful but not so much as to be obvious. Fresh and focused, this is spring in a glass, and pretty soon it will be summer in a glass. 88 Michael Franz May 30, 2006

La Vieille Ferme, Côtes du Ventoux (Rhône, France) Dry Rosé 2009 ($9, Vineyard Brands): Made with Grenache and Cinsault, this is a refreshing warm weather rosé. Tasting of bright red berry fruit with plenty of zesty acidity for balance, it will counter summer heat and humidity with ease. True, it does not exhibit many of the compelling dried herb undertones that characterize the very best southern French rosés, but then it costs less than $10 (significantly less when put on sale). 87 Paul Lukacs Jun 15, 2010

Mont Thabor, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) “illuMiné" Rosé 2020 ($16, Blicker, Pierce, Wagner Wine Merchants):

Mont Thabor, most-known for their Châteauneuf du Pape, makes their illuMiné series from a nearby Southern Rhône appellation of Luberon. I’ve tried several vintages of this Rosé but this vintage, in particular, stands out due to a clear overtone of white pepper. This pepper blends well with the traditional French Rosé notes of melon, cream, and strawberry. The overall balance and structure still makes this an excellent year-round Rosé.
91 Vince Simmon Jun 14, 2022

Domaine de la Citadelle, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Artemes” 2013 ($22): This wine has, not surprisingly given the blend of Grenache and Syrah, considerable muscle for a rosé. A touch of structure and spice balances the density perfectly. Alexis Rousset-Rouard, who runs the domaine, puts it nicely, “It’s a rosé for September instead of May.” It’s also good with roasted salmon in January.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2014

La Vieille Ferme, Rhône Valley (France) 2016 ($11, Vineyard Brands):

An inviting, pale pink color sets the stage. With delicate nuances of red berries and pink grapefruit following through, plus energetic acidity on the finish, this rosé is wonderfully refreshing. Blended from Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. While 2016 was an exceptional vintage in the Southern Rhône, La Vieille Ferme Rosé from the Famille Perrin, is always dependable, and always offers great value.
89 Marguerite Thomas Aug 1, 2017

Guillaume Gonnet, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) "La Nymphe" Rosé 2022 ($19, Misa Imports):

Tavel was my introduction to Rosé many years ago and this wine from Guillaume Gonnet reminds me of why I fell in love with it and why it should be on my dinner table more often. It comes from the Rhone Valley, made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault, the classic grape varieties of the region. A brilliant dark, rose-red color, it boasts intense flavors of black cherry, strawberry and red plum flavors with savory, mineral highlights wrapped in a linear structure. This is a wine meant for the table. The bird on all their wine labels is a robin, a regular visitor to their organically farmed vineyards.
95 Rebecca Murphy Sep 19, 2023

Domaine Pélaquié, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($19, Bowler):

The Pélaquié family has been making wine at on their property since the 1500s. Their 100 hectares (247 acres) of vines are located in the Côtes-du-Rhône, Laudun, Tavel, and Lirac appellations. This classic, dry Rosé wine is made of Grenache and Cinsault from their Tavel vines. This 2020 Rosé has a luminous, dark rose color and aromas of strawberries, red cherries, and red plums. Flavors of succulent strawberry fruit with a hint of spice and floral notes, and snappy acidity. It is quite enjoyable with charcuterie, roast chicken, or Salad Niçoise. To say Tavel Rosé is actually redundant. Tavel is the only wine region in France where Rosé is the only wine produced. So, just ask for Tavel.
94 Rebecca Murphy Jan 25, 2022

Chateau d'Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2020 ($23, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

This Rosé is comprised of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette (these are all grapes varieties that are native to the Mediterranean region). The wine’s vibrant deep pink color is a result of brief contact with the dark purple skins of the grapes. It is mouthwateringly fragrant and multi-faceted on the palate. Thanks to its generous aromas and flavors, it pairs well with food as well as being good sipping wine.
93 Marguerite Thomas Nov 23, 2021

Château d’Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2022 ($19, Kobrand):

There was a time before Rosés became commonplace – a great development – that those which carried any cache were from long-designated pink regions, mainly Anjou in the Loire and Tavel in the Rhône. As the world of Rosé blossomed, much of the focus shifted to the elegant sipping pinks of Provence and less attention given today to pinks as food wines (add Bordeaux Clairets to that food-friendly list, by the way). D’Aqueria has been around a long time and is ready available, readily reliable and readily affordable. This vintage is a lovely wine – a mixture of cherries, strawberries and lots of herbal garrigue, leaning toward the aromatics category, with considerably more gravitas in the glass than most pink wines.
92 Roger Morris Aug 15, 2023

Château de Ségriès, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($20, Kysela Père et Fils):

Rosé lovers who seek full-bodied versions can look to Tavel for satisfaction. Château de Ségriès is a top producer in the southern Rhône appellations of Lirac and Tavel. Their 2020 Tavel Rosé is exceptional! Drawn from 60-year-old Grenache and Cinsault vines with minor additions of Clairette and Syrah, the wine shows the concentration that old vine fruit can provide. It has a deep pink color with a bouquet of ripe strawberry, raspberry and red cherry fruits followed by hints of flowers, aromatic herbs and white peppery spice. The flavors are ripe and enticing, with layers of pure, juicy strawberry and cherry enhanced by herbal and floral nuances. Tavel is an unusual appellation because it is only for Rosé wines and the 2020 Château de Ségriès Tavel shows the depth and texture that made Tavel famous.
92 Wayne Belding Aug 17, 2021

Château de Ségriès, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2019 ($20, Kysela Pere et Fils):

Château de Ségriès is one of the top producers in the southern Rhône appellations of Lirac and Tavel. Their 2019 Tavel Rosé is exceptional! Drawn from 60-year-old Grenache and Cinsault vines with minor additions of Clairette and Syrah, the wine shows the concentration that old vine fruit can provide. It has a deep pink color with a bouquet of ripe strawberry, cherry and raspberry fruits followed by hints of flowers, aromatic herbs and white peppery spice. The flavors are ripe and enticing, with layers of pure, juicy strawberry and cherry enhanced by herbal and floral nuances. Tavel is unusual because the appellation rules permit only rosé wines and the 2019 Château de Ségriès Tavel shows the depth and texture that made Tavel famous.
91 Wayne Belding Aug 25, 2020

Château de Ségriès, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2018 ($19, Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd):

Tavel is a rare appellation that permits only rosé wines and winegrowers here take their craft seriously. Château de Ségriès is one of the top producers of this storied wine and their 2018 bottling appeals to all the senses. A vibrant pink in color, it has a bouquet of ripe strawberry, raspberry and cherry followed by hints of honeysuckle, aromatic herbs and white peppery spice. On the palate, the wine impresses with its layers of pure, juicy strawberry and cherry fruits underscored by delicate floral, herb and spice elements. The 2018 Château de Ségriès Tavel exemplifies the very special character of this unusual appellation, with more weight and texture than most rosés. Bleded from Grenache (50%), Cinsault (30%), Clairette (10%) and Syrah (10%). Enjoy it with fresh salmon -- it’s a delicious pairing.
91 Wayne Belding Sep 10, 2019

Château de Trinquevedel, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2017 ($18, Kermit Lynch):

Tavel is a rare appellation that permits only rosé wines under its banner. Château de Trinquevedel is one of the top producers of this storied wine and their 2017 Tavel is a great success. A vivid pink in color, it has a bouquet of ripe cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruits followed by hints of white flowers, aromatic herbs and white peppery spice. On the palate, the wine impresses with its layers of pure, juicy strawberry and cherry fruits underscored by delicate floral, herb and spice elements. The 2017 Château de Trinquevedel Tavel exemplifies the very special character of this unusual appellation, with more weight and texture than most rosés. Serve it with your favorite salmon recipe or most anything off the grill. Blended from Grenache (45%). Cinsault (24%). Clairette (15%). Mourvèdre (10%) and Syrah (6%).
91 Wayne Belding Aug 28, 2018

Château de Trinquevedel, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2014 ($18, Kermit Lynch):

The winegrowers of Tavel take rosé seriously. Tavel is a rare appellation that permits only rosé wines. Château de Trinquevedel is one of the top producers of this storied pink wine and the 2014 bottling shows why. A vibrant pink in color, it has a bouquet of ripe cherry, raspberry and strawberry followed by hints of white flowers, aromatic herbs and white peppery spice. On the palate, the wine impresses with its layers of pure, juicy strawberry and cherry fruits underscored by delicate floral, herb and spice elements. The 2014 Château de Trinquevedel Tavel exemplifies the very special character of this unusual appellation, with more weight and texture than most rosés. Blended from Grenache (45%) Cinsault (24%) Clairette (15%) Mourvèdre (10%) and Syrah (6%), it will delight the crowd at your next backyard grillfest.
91 Wayne Belding Jun 16, 2015

Château de Trinquevedel, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($21, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):

Tavel is a rare appellation that permits only Rosé wines under its banner. Château de Trinquevedel is one of the top producers of this storied southern Rhône wine and their 2020 Tavel is a great success. A pale pink in color, it has a bouquet of ripe cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruits followed by hints of white flowers, aromatic herbs and white peppery spice. On the palate, the wine impresses with its layers of pure, juicy strawberry and cherry fruits underscored by delicate floral, herb and spice elements. The 2020 Château de Trinquevedel Tavel exemplifies the very special character of this unusual appellation, with more weight and texture than most Rosés. It’s a great choice to pair with richer seafoods or roast chicken.
91 Wayne Belding Sep 28, 2021

Domaine Chantepierre, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2022 ($24, Fruit of the Vines):

Rosé lovers who seek full-bodied versions can look to Tavel for satisfaction. Domaine Chantepierre is a small producer in the southern Rhône appellations of Lirac and Tavel. Their 2022 Tavel Rosé is exceptional! Drawn from a blend of Grenache and Cinsault vines with minor additions of Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Syrah, the wine shows lovely freshness and concentration. It has a deep pink color with a bouquet of ripe strawberry, raspberry and red cherry fruits followed by hints of flowers, aromatic herbs and white peppery spice. The flavors are juicy and enticing, with layers of pure, ripe strawberry and cherry enhanced by herbal and floral nuances. Tavel is an unusual appellation because it is devoted solely to rosé wines and the 2022 Chantepierre Tavel exemplifies the genre.
91 Wayne Belding May 23, 2023

Domaine de la Mordorée, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2022 ($25, Kysela Pere et Fils):

Regular WineReviewOnline readers know of my aversion to rosé, which, all too often, is insipid and lacks interest. Not this one! Of course, it comes from Tavel, an appellation that allows producers to make only rosé and from one of the top producers not just in Tavel, but in the entire Rhône Valley. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Clairette, and Cinsault planted on a mixture of sand, limestone, and cobblestones (galets, in French) imbues this stunning rosé with power, spice, and elegance. Those looking for pale Provençal rosé should avoid this wine. For those who seek a rosé with character and substance, here it is.
91 Michael Apstein May 2, 2023

Domaine Lafond, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) "Roc Epine" Rosé 2016 ($18, Alain Junguenet Selection):

The 2016 Domaine Lafond Tavel Rosé is a beautiful and pure example of this iconic Rhône Valley rosé. A vibrant pink in color, it has a bouquet of ripe strawberry and cherry underscored by elements of dried herbs, wildflowers and white pepper. The flavors are pure and juicy with strawberry and red cherry fruit enhanced by the classic dried herb and spice character of Tavel rosés. It has more weight and texture than many rosé bottlings, making it a great wine to pair with a wide range of summer fare. A blend of Grenache (60%), Syrah (20%) and Cinsault (20%).
91 Wayne Belding Jul 11, 2017

Chateau d’Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône, France) 2007 ($19, Kobrand): Ch. D'Aqueria is a classic Tavel rosé, based on Grenache for fruitiness and body, blended with a quartet of Southern Rhône grapes: Clairette, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Bourboulenc. The color is medium party pink, while the aromas are redolent of wild strawberries. Dry, with good texture and length, the flavors are packed with fruit and balanced with crisp acidity. It sees no oak and drinks more like a light red than a pink wine. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 17, 2008

Domaine Lafond, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) "Roc Épine" Rosé 2019 ($19, Alain Junguenet Selection):

The 2019 Domaine Lafond Tavel Rosé is a fresh and delightful rosé. It has surprising depth and is perfect for pairing with grilled foods, picnic fare or just to enjoy by itself. The color is a deep and vibrant pink. It has a forward bouquet with floral tones plus ripe strawberry and red cherry fruits underscored by nuances of Provençal herbs and white pepper. Blended from Grenache (60%), Syrah (20%) and Cinsault (20%), the wine's flavors are pure and lively, with strawberry and red cherry fruit enhanced by dried herb and spice character. Enjoy it for its delicious fruit and satisfying texture.
90 Wayne Belding May 5, 2020

Domaine Lafond, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) "Roc Épine" Rosé 2020 ($20, Alain Junguenet Selection):

The 2020 Domaine Lafond Roc Épine Tavel Rosé is a consistently fine bottling. It offers considerable depth and is perfect for pairing with grilled foods, picnic fare or just to enjoy by itself. The color is a deep and vibrant pink. It has a forward bouquet with ripe strawberry and red cherry fruits enhanced by subtle floral and spice tones. The flavors are pure and layered with strawberry and red cherry fruits interwoven with the floral, herb and spice nuances. It is rich enough to pair with red meats and bright enough to provide summertime refreshment.
90 Wayne Belding Jun 15, 2021

Domaine Lafond, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Grenache “Roc Epine” 2014 ($17, Alain Junguenet Selection): The 2014 Domaine Lafond Tavel Rosé is a lovely and fresh example of this iconic Rhône Valley wine. A vibrant pink in color, it has a bouquet of ripe cherries and strawberries followed by hints of wildflowers, sun-baked herbs and white pepper. The flavors are pure and juicy with strawberry and red cherry fruit enhanced by the classic dried herb and spice character of southern French rosés. It has more weight and texture than many rosé bottlings, making it a great wine to pair with a wide range of summer fare.
90 Wayne Belding May 12, 2015

Domaine Lafond, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Roc Epine Rosé 2017 ($19, Alain Junguenet Selection (various importers)):

The 2017 Domaine Lafond Tavel Rosé is the quintessential summer wine -- a beautiful and pure example of this Rhône Valley rosé. It truly appeals to all the senses. Visually, its vibrant pink color entices one to sample it. It has a bouquet with floral tones plus ripe strawberry and cherry fruits underscored by elements of dried herbs and white pepper. The flavors are pure and lively with strawberry and red cherry fruit enhanced by dried herb and spice character. It has more weight and texture than many rosé bottlings. Blended from Grenache (60%) Syrah (20%) and Cinsault (20%), it’s the perfect companion to foods off the grill.
90 Wayne Belding Jun 19, 2018

Domaine Lafond, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) "Roc Epine" Rosé 2018 ($21, Alain Junguenet Selection):

The 2018 Domaine Lafond Tavel is a serious rosé. With more depth and character than many pink bottlings, it is a quintessential summer wine – perfect for pairing with picnic fare, grilled foods, or just to enjoy by itself. It truly appeals to all the senses. Visually, its vibrant pink color foretells the pleasures to come and entices one to sample it. It has a bouquet with floral tones plus ripe strawberry and cherry fruits underscored by nuances of dried herbs and white pepper. The flavors are pure and lively with strawberry and red cherry fruit enhanced by dried herb and spice character. While fine Tavel can age more gracefully than most rosés, there’s no reason not to enjoy it this summer.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 2, 2019

Prieuré de Montezargues, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2010 ($25, Pasternak Wine Imports):

Regular WRO Readers know I am not a fan of rosé, but this one is an unusually attractive one. The regulations for the Tavel appellation permit only rosé, which helps explain why rosés from that area are distinctive. Made primarily from Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre from vines averaging 45 years, it has power and is closer to a light red than most rosés that pass themselves off as wine. With its power, is balancing vibrancy and lip-smacking acidity. Not a rosé for sipping before dinner, this bone-dry rosé is better suited for food--think grilled tuna. 90 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011

Prieuré de Montezargues, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2007 ($20, Henriot):

An exemplary rosé, this wine is still vivid and fresh despite being a year older than the 2008 wines now in the market, and bests most of them in terms of intricacy of aroma and flavor. A light floral note of lavender provides a delightful initial impression, followed by delicate flavors of red cherries and wild strawberries. The acidity is crisp and zesty but very nicely integrated with the fruit, and the overall seamlessness of the wine will enable this to work beautifully with a very wide range of foods.

Prieuré de Montézargues, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2010 ($25, Pasternak Wine Imports): This Tavel delivers everything you could ask for in a rosé. It’s the color of a glorious sunset and it has a mouth-watering aroma. Dominated by Grenache, it packs plenty of fruit on the palate, and has a long crisp finish heightened by a gentle sweep of tannins. This wine has the three elements that sum up rosé perfection: acidity, freshness, and balance. Tavel (which for many aficionados represents the gold standard for rosé) is located on the right bank of the Rhone River, and is the only appellation in France that produces nothing but rosé. 90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 22, 2011

Chateau d'Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône, France) Rosé 2005 ($16, Kobrand): This excellent rosé is crafted from Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette. The moderately deep color is very appealing, as are the aromas of strawberries and red cherries, which are accented with the faintest whiffs of flowers and spices. Dry but nevertheless fruity and satisfyingly substantial when paired with light foods, this is a delicious, well made rosé that doesn't wimp out at the table but nevertheless remains delicate and fresh. 89 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2006

Chateau de Ségriès, Tavel (Rhône, France) Rosé 2004 ($15, Kysela): This very classy wine shows subtle but fresh, fruity aromas and flavors recalling ripe peaches and cherries, with a dry finish that is nevertheless long and generous in flavor. Fruit and acidity components are nicely interwoven, adding to the overall sense of sophistication. 89 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2005

Prieure de Montezargues, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2007 ($20, Henriot): Grenache Noir, Cinsault and Clairette make up the blend of this dry Tavel rosé. Fermentation was in tank and each varietal was vinified separately, then blended. The color is a lovely medium pink-salmon and the fragrant nose shows hints of ripe strawberry and a trace of spice. The flavors are dry with medium fruit and tannins and the wine finishes dry at 13.5% alcohol with lingering fruit. Try this with cold ham or Asian dishes. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 8, 2009

Prieuré de Montézargues, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2007 ($20, Henriot): A classic-tasting southern French dry rosé, marked by bright red berry fruit and enhanced by subtle notes reminiscent of thyme, lavender, and dried herbs. Medium-bodied, so substantial enough to pair with fairly hearty dishes, this is a wine worth drinking all summer long. 89 Paul Lukacs Jun 30, 2009

Antoine Ogier, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) “Etamines” 2017 ($15):

Tavel, an appellation established in 1936 solely for rosé, usually produces wines that are notably more robust than other rosé wines. Indeed, in this case, you could consider many of them as light reds, and Ogier’s, befitting the appellation, has more color and depth, balanced by vigorous acidity. It’s a good choice for the barely cooked tuna atop a salad Niçoise.
88 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018

Château D’Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2008 ($19, Kobrand): Tavel, a village in the south of France near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, makes only rosé wine from the usual blend of Rhône grapes--including Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Almost light red in color, this dry wine conveys serious strawberry-tinged flavors that spread over the palate. Its class appears in the striking finish. A good choice for the waning sticky days of summer. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 8, 2009

Château d’Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2007 ($19, Kobrand): This wine is always among the best rosès from southern France, and the 2007 vintage is certainly no exception. Made from Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette, it gets the balance between lightness and flavor just right, with red cherry and strawberry notes that prove quite satisfying but still very refreshing.
88 Michael Franz May 6, 2008

Prieure de Montezarques, Tavel (Rhône, France) 2006 ($24, Henriot): According to new data from The Nielsen Company, sales of rose wines have shot up 45% over the past year. Rosy news indeed as we ease into the season when pink wines are ideal as summer coolers. This toothsome blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Clairette is in the classic dry, fruity Tavel style, with fresh strawberry aromatics and full-bodied flavors of strawberry and cranberry. It's clean, no oak fruity flavors are just right with a simple roast chicken. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 26, 2007

Château d’Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2006 ($17, Kobrand): Light and bright and deliciously immediate, this wine offers lots of pleasure in the form of fresh, cherry-berry fruit with well integrated acidity and a delicate sweetness that tastes of fruit rather than sugar. 87 Michael Franz Jul 24, 2007

Domaine Brusset, Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Travers” 2012 ($19, Simon N Cellars):

This very interesting and broadly useful wine somehow manages to seem expressive and restrained at once. The fruit is quite pure, recalling stone fruits above all, but with some fresh citrus edging, and the sweet fruit impressions are very well integrated with the wine’s acidity. The real excitement starts when the mineral tinges begin to show up in the mid-palate, and they gain prominence as the fruit tails off, in classic fashion. This might get better with a couple of years of ageing, but I’d recommend ripping in right now. 90 Michael Franz Aug 13, 2013

Chateau la Nerthe, Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc (Rhône, France) Clos de Beauvenir 2009 ($75, Pasternak Wine Imports): A sublime wine to drink immediately, although you certainly could hold on to it for another couple of years. Right now it’s dense and energetic. It throbs with fruit balanced by a suggestion of oak, and has an exceptional velvety finish. 93 Marguerite Thomas Apr 26, 2011

Tardieu-Laurent, Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc (Rhône, France) Vieilles Vignes 2008 ($83, Wilson Daniels): With a couple of important exceptions, my experience has been that Châteauneuf du Pape is just too hot to make aromatically interesting

white wine, and that the category consists almost entirely of over-priced misadventures. This wine is one of those important exceptions, perhaps because one of the three vineyard sources for it is in the appellation’s coolest sub-regions. The aromas are as striking as the flavors, with suggestions of flowers and white peach and poached pear, along with wood-based accents of spices and toast. The wine shows real weight and breadth on the palate, yet it is focused and lifted thanks to lots of energetic acidity. Bloody impressive wine. 93 Michael Franz May 31, 2011

Chateau la Nerthe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2014 ($63, Pasternak):

If not the oldest of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine estates, Chateau la Nerthe is certainly one of the oldest, dating back to at least 1560. Impossible to say what those 16th century wines might have tasted like, but today’s version is mighty close to perfection. The beautiful 2014 Chateau la Nerthe white is marvelously rich, round and generous in the mouth. It also expresses freshness and lovely fruit flavors with a faint hint of honey. The fine, firm finish is another reason to love this wine.
94 Marguerite Thomas May 3, 2016

Chateau Mont-Redon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Rhone Valley, France) 2002 ($33, Remy Cointreau USA): In this rain-drenched vintage the south of France fared much better than other parts of the country and managed to produce some excellent wines. This one is a blend of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc that offers up an intriguing nose of white flowers and peach. It is slightly hot on the palate, but that is typical of a white Rhone and most producers believe slightly elevated alcohol levels contribute to the structure and ultimately the longevity of the wine. 88 Robert Whitley Jun 20, 2006

Château Fortia, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2018 ($43, Wines Of France):

Château Fortia has a long history of producing fine wines from the Southern Rhône. While their Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge is better known and the majority of Fortia’s production, their Châteauneuf Blanc is a rare and delicious treasure. The 2018 Châteaunduf Blanc offers opulent fruit, layers of complexity and a rich texture that exemplifies the fine Rhône Valley style. It has forward aromas of ripe peach, pear and Rainier cherry fruits backed by floral, cream and tropical fruit nuances. The intriguing range of flavors encompasses the peach, cherry, and tropical fruits interwoven with hints of cream and spice. Its rich texture reflects the high quality of the fruit sources and the winemaking skill that supports it. The blend is Roussanne (80%), Clairette (10%) and Grenache Blanc (10%). Enjoy it now or over the next 3 to 5 years.
93 Wayne Belding Feb 25, 2020

Eric Texier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2004 ($41, Louis Dressner Selections):

You don't often think of white Châteauneuf-du-Pape as light and airy, but that's the style of wine Texier has made. It tastes of minerals, earth and a touch of apricot, but it's elegant and, unlike many white wines from the southern Rhône, fresh and lacey. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006

Perrin & Fils, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc “Les Sinards” 2005 ($35, Vineyard Brands): With only about 5% of the area's production devoted to white wine--

and much of that heavy and unappealing--one sometimes wonders why anyone bothers with white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This wine is why. A blend of 75% Grenache Blanc and 25% Clairette, it has the hint of apricot common in many whites from the southern Rhône, and good intensity, but without a trace of heaviness. Its minerality or stoniness makes it refreshing. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2007

Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2020 ($65, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

I confess that I’ve often found white wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape underwhelming in relation to the prices asked for them, and though $65 is “no small ask,” this wine seems worth every one of those dollars. The fruit is at once fresh and opulent, with a mélange of scents and flavors including both stone fruits and restrained tropical notes, and the balance of ripeness to acidity could hardly be any better. What is most impressive are the light touches of nutty oak that grace both the aromas and flavors. These greatly enhance the wine’s complexity and appeal, and deriving so much appeal at a level where the terms “light” and “grace” are appropriate is very difficult — and very impressive.
93 Michael Franz May 17, 2022

Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) Clos de Beauvenir 2009 ($75, Pasternak Wine Imports): This is one of the rare white wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It comes from a 6.5-acre plot planted primarily to Roussanne and Clairette. Fermented in oak barrels, one-third of which are new, accounts for the noticeable vanilla notes apparent at this stage. Still, the stone fruit character of ripe peaches and apricots sails through. Unlike many white wines from the southern Rhone, this one has plenty of acidity that keeps it fresh. For true decadence, try it with scallops sautéed in butter and herbs. 93 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011

Famille Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Sinards” 2019 ($39, Vineyard Brands):

To be perfectly candid, I don’t often taste white Châteauneuf-du-Pape that really seems to be worth asking price, but this is a very impressive case in counterpoint. My surprise was lessened by knowing that this release comes from the team behind Châteauneuf’s uber-famous Château Beaucastel, but still, this is a superb specimen of the breed. Nutty, toasty scents intermingle with rich fruit notes and an aroma reminiscent of wild honey, and they are every bit as alluring as these descriptors suggest. Medium-bodied on the palate, with a broad, soft texture that is energized by fresh acidity and provided framing from classy oak (some of which seems to be new, but with no distracting charry notes), this is straightforwardly delicious but also impressively nuanced. The various flavors (stone fruit, citrus and tropical fruit) tail off symmetrically in the finish, supported by the oak and lifted by the acidity. This will be a wonderful partner for many dishes suited to white wine, but sauteed chicken with mushroom cream sauce would be a good place to start with your experimentation. Terrific juice.
93 Michael Franz Jan 26, 2021

Famille Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) "Les Sinards" 2015 ($40, Vineyard Brands): The Perrin family is by far most famous for its Château Beaucastel renditions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, both rouge and blanc, but the wines

they've released from other sites under the "Famille Perrin" label have become steadilly stronger in recent years, and now offer exceptional quality in addition to attractive value. In all candor, white Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be pretty bland in most vintages while also being expensive, since it is grown on such valuable ground. However, 2015 was a vintage that produced wonderfully expressive wines of both colors, and if you've never tried a (relatively rare) Blanc version, this would be a great bottle with which to start. It shows subtle but notable floral scents, with fruit recalling white peaches that is medium-plus in body but braced by fresh acidity. Pair with fish, poultry or white meat dishes. Crafted from Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, this is very well grown and made.
92 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2017

E. Guigal, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2017 ($42, Vintus):

Guigal, based in the northern Rhône village of Ampuis, has made Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the southern Rhône’s most famous wine, since the 1940s. But this 2017 is their first white Châteauneuf du Pape. White Châteauneuf du Pape is unusual, since about 95 percent of the appellation’s production is red. Guigal’s acquisition of Château Nalys in Châteauneuf du Pape in 2017 gave them access to high quality white grapes from nine other growers. (Guigal also now makes two white estate Châteauneuf du Pape from their own grapes bottled under the Château Nalys label.) This white Châteauneuf du Pape is in the Guigal style--opulent, but not heavy or overdone. It conveys ripe stone fruit flavors offset with balancing firmness. A full-bodied white, it would go well with sautéed chicken in a creamy mustard sauce.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2019

Chateau la Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2009 ($55, Pasternak Wine Imports): Fresh and fruity, the wine has a lacey texture. Elements of honey and pear add additional interest. Unburdened by oakiness, it is a terrific wine for food. I recently enjoyed it with simple grilled fish and couldn’t have asked for a better pairing. 89 Marguerite Thomas Feb 22, 2011

Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc AOC (Rhône Valley, France) 2015 ($60, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

This is a Grenache Blanc-dominant blend that’s pure joy to drink. Lemon crème, peach, mild herb and spice aromas all show as palate flavors, with a creamy midpalate leading to a crisp finish where the flavors blossom and linger. It's definitely worth seeking out – get some to age a while when you jump in. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
97 Rich Cook Sep 24, 2019

Yves Cuilleron, Collines Rhodaniennes IGP (Rhône Valley, France) Viognier “Les Vignes d’à Côté” 2018 ($26, Rosenthal Wine Merchant):

The Cuilleron family has been making wines in the hills of the northern Rhône Valley for three generations. Yves, the current Cuilleron in charge, took over in 1987 with 3.5 hectares (8.5 acres) of vineyards in Condrieu and Saint-Joseph appellations. Today the company owns 55.5 hectares (137 plus acres) of vines in eight AOCs and 19.5 (48 plus acres) in IGPs. Les Vignes d’à Côté translates to “vines next door” indicating the proximity of these Collines Rhodaniennes Viognier grapes to their siblings from more prestigious appellations nearby. The IGP classification rules are less stringent than those for an AOC, so winemakers can try different grape varieties or different winemaking methods. This Viognier is intended to be an approachable wine, fermented with native yeasts in temperature controlled, stainless steel tanks, spending six months on the lees in tanks and barrels, preserving Viognier’s seductive honeysuckle, peach, dried rose petals, orange zest aromas. In the mouth the intense, rich flavors of peach, pineapple and lime are restrained by a lean, linear structure and enlivened by vibrant acidity. The fruit flavors are enhanced with spicy notes of ginger, clove and chamomile in the mouth. It’s a great opportunity to experience a delicious wine in a different style from a great winery at a much lower price.
89 Rebecca Murphy Apr 7, 2020

Delas, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) “La Galopine” 2014 ($75, Maisons, Marques & Domaines):

It doesn’t happen very often that a Viognier-based wine knocks my socks off, but this is a striking wine that I absolutely love. It shows soaring floral aromas like many New World renditions of Viognier, but with none alcoholic heat that so often afflicts those wines. It is also quite rich like a New World Viognier, but with significantly more acidity, which is certainly needed for balance and refreshment value. Full-bodied but really very drinkable, this would be terrific with a lightly spicy preparation of swordfish, scallops, poultry or pork. Yes, it is expensive, but Condrieu is a tiny appellation with stupendously high land prices, so there are real production costs at work here…not just an ego trip. Delas seems to get stronger with each vintage, and should now have great northern Rhône houses like Guigal, Jaboulet and Chapoutier looking over their shoulders.
95 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2016

Eric Texier, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2005 ($45, Louis Dressner Selections): Trained as a nuclear engineer, Texier turned to winemaking. He worked in Burgundy and told me he tries to put 'Burgundian sensibilities into Rhône wines.' His 2005 Condrieu has the Burgundian character of incredible flavor without heaviness. Analogous to Ferran Andrià's cooking at El Bulli, there's flavor without mass. Fresh and floral, you taste ripe white peaches, but the wine is light as a feather. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006

E. Guigal, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2016 ($61, Vintus):

Condrieu is a small, 500-acre, appellation just south of Côte Rôtie on the western bank of the Rhône River that produces only white wine made from the Viognier grape. The clone, or bio-type, of Viognier in Condrieu is smaller and lower yielding than Viognier planted elsewhere, which helps explain the expense of the wine. Guigal, the best and justifiably the most famous producer in the Rhône Valley, always makes an exceptional Condrieu. Their 2016 fits that mold, delivering engaging floral note and bright, but not sweet, peachy flavors. An alluring slightly bitter finish provides a welcome ying-yang balance. Fresh and bright, this Condrieu is a wonderful choice for those hard to match foods, such as roast pork, or sushi.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2019

Pierre Gaillard, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2022 ($54, J A E Wine Imports):

The Condrieu AOC is a single variety appellation located south of the Côte-Rôtie AOC in France. Viognier (“VEE-on-yay") is the grape, and the wine it produces is considered the best example of what Viognier can do. It displays a light golden color and elegant aromas of fresh peach, apricot, and pear with notes of honeysuckle blossoms. In the mouth, the peach, apricot and pear flavors are juicy and well balanced with surprisingly crisp acidity. I write “surprisingly" because Viognier is usually a low acid wine. Enjoy it with fresh Lobster, or roast chicken, even with a creamy sauce.
94 Rebecca Murphy Feb 27, 2024

Guigal, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2010 ($57, Vintus): Condrieu, home to Viognier grape, can be a hard wine to get right. Viognier needs to be ripe to express its floral character, but not so ripe that the alcohol shows. Guigal hit the bulls eye with their 2010. It combines a lacey floral component with rich stone fruit flavors. There’s not a trace of heaviness. A lovely firm minerality pulls all the elements together. 93 Michael Apstein May 29, 2012

Jean-Luc Colombo, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) “Amour de Dieu” 2012 ($90, Palm Bay International):

This terrific wine shows expressive floral aromas that never turn overbearing or tiring, and the flavors are likewise quite open and generous without seeming heavy. There’s a citrus edge to the juicy, peach- and apricot-flavored fruit as well as interesting mineral undertones. Succulent and racy at once, this is Viognier that one can not only admire but also drink. Simply put, a wonderful, utterly convincing wine.
93 Michael Franz Mar 17, 2015

Michel & Stephane Ogier, Condrieu (Rhône, France) 2008 ($55, Robert Kacher Selections): This marvelous rendition of Viognier shows the strong quality of the 2008 vintage for whites in the northern Rhône as well as the superb

skills of the house of Ogier. Very rich and deeply flavored, with layered fruit recalling ripe peaches and baked apples, this is lush and opulent, yet still focused by a beam of fresh acidity that is so finely interwoven with the fruit that one sense’s its effects more than sensing it directly as a free-standing element in the wine. This is an exemplary Condrieu that should contribute to recognition that this appellation continues to set the standard for Viognier around the world despite the fact that its planted area is now dwarfed by that of other regions. 93 Michael Franz Feb 15, 2011

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) “Domaine des Grands Amandiers” 2012 ($99, Frederick Wildman):

The debut release of this wine from the new regime at Jaboulet was the 2009. The site is fairly small at about 5 acres, and some if it has yet to be re-terraced and planted. Nevertheless, the vines that are producing now are yielding very distinguished juice. The aromas are pronounced (as one would expect from Viognier) yet not cloying in their floral character (as one would hope from Condrieu, though sometimes in vain). Medium-bodied, with dense mouth-feel but no trace of excess weight, this combines open and deep flavors of stone fruit with layers of acidity, spices and minerals. Generous but admirably restrained, this should be enjoyed soon while it still shows its delectable current freshness.
93 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2015

Yves Cuilleron a Chavanay, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Chaillets” 2021 ($68, Grape Expectations):

Yves Cuilleron is one of the top wine producers in the Rhône Valley where he makes highly regarded red and white wines. He has been called “King of Condrieu.” His Chaillets is one of three cuvées of Condrieu (pronounced, "con dri uh") he makes. It gets its name from the terraced vineyards planted on well-drained soil of biotite-rich granite. After harvest, the Viognier grapes are whole-cluster pressed, fermented in barrel with indigenous yeasts, then aged for nine months on their lees. It is a sumptuous wine with rich, ripe apricot, peach, honeydew melon aromas and flavors layered with dusty mineral notes and balanced by crisp, citrusy acidity. It will be a delicious partner for grilled salmon or sauteed scallops.
93 Rebecca Murphy Dec 12, 2023

E. Guigal, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2019 ($70, Vintus Wines):

Condrieu, a small roughly 500-acre, appellation in the northern Rhône valley, mandates the exclusive use of Viognier, a temperamental grape. Guigal, arguably the Rhône’s best producer overall, has (perhaps unsurprisingly) tamed it and turned it into an excellent wine. Viognier, an aromatic grape, planted in the wrong place and turned into wine by less talented winemakers can come across as heavy and alcoholic. Not so with Guigal. Their ripe 2019 displays a palate of apricot, peaches, and even melon-like flavors, all supported by good acidity. Its lovely viscous texture reinforces its richness. It would make an excellent choice for spicy Asian cuisine.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2023

Domaine Philippe Faury, Condrieu (Rhone Valley, France) 2004 ($46, Kermit Lynch): Good Condrieu presents something of a paradox. Delicately flavored, with a tantalizing floral perfume, it at the same time feels rich and substantial, with an almost waxy, full body and a heady finish. That combination of grace and power makes it an excellent mealtime companion, particularly when accompanying poultry or seafood prepared with a sauce based on cream. Philippe Faury's 2004 rendition gets the paradox right. This wine smells and tastes gentle, but feels sizeable. Delicious! Do drink it in the near term, though. After a couple of years in the bottle, Condrieu loses its enticing delicacy and starts to seem cumbersome. 90 Paul Lukacs May 16, 2006

Philippe Faury, Condrieu (Rhône, France) 2002 ($48, Kermit Lynch): The delicate floral bouquet displayed by this wine emphasizes white spring blossoms more than the classic honeysuckle floral note associated with Viognier. Apricot and peaches on the palate are classic Viognier, however, as is the weighty (but never ponderous) texture. If this wine has a single flaw it is, to my taste anyway, the slightly intrusive note of vanilla. But this is a minor quibble about a wine that is immensely satisfying overall. 89 Marguerite Thomas Apr 11, 2006

Famille Perrin, Cotes du Rhône (France) 2011 ($11, Vineyard Brands): This is a sly little bees-wax scented Rhône white that will work its way into your affections. The first sip or two might leave you unimpressed, but suddenly the centripetal force pulls you in to a core of aromatic ripe fruit. True, a little more length would be really terrific -- but then the wine would probably cost twice as much.
89 Marguerite Thomas Sep 10, 2013

Domaine Gramenon, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Viognier “La Vie On Y Est” 2014 ($25, Kermit Lynch):

This enchanting white wine from the Côtes du Rhône is herbal and lightly floral on the nose, and on the palate it offers ripe stone fruits, a touch of honey and a trace of chalky minerality. Domaine Gramenon grapes are hand harvested, and the wine was fermented with indigenous yeasts. Serve it as an aperitif, or with poultry, or with cheese-rich pasta dishes.
92 Marguerite Thomas Oct 9, 2018

Alain Jaume, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Grand Veneur” Blanc Réserve 2008 ($14, Kysela): This shows lovely floral aromatics, real breadth on the palate, and impressive depth of flavor. The fruit shows nice peach and white melon notes, braced by some fresh acidity that contributes to a balanced, lingering finish. Cheap wines from these grapes are notoriously boring, and good wines made from them are appallingly expensive, and this is a rare case of a workable middle ground. The blend is 50% Roussanne, 40% Viognier and 10% Clairette. An excellent wine, and a true exemplar for white Rhône wines in terms of value. 90 Michael Franz Jul 7, 2009

Famille Perrin, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve Blanc 2014 ($12, Vineyard Brands):

Southern Rhône Valley whites tend to relegate the taste of fruit to a secondary role, emphasizing instead flavors resembling smoked nuts, dried herbs, and a dusty earthiness. They often seem dull because unintegrated. But when well-crafted, like this one, they offer all sorts of intellectually intriguing pleasures. As that phrase suggests, this is not a wine to quaff without thinking about it. Instead, it demands concentration, and perhaps even conversation. For a mere $11 a bottle, that’s very impressive.
90 Paul Lukacs Aug 25, 2015

J.L. Chave Sélection, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Mon Coeur” 2020 ($24, Shiverick Imports):

A deep ruby in the glass, J.L. Chave Sélection’s Côtes-du-Rhône Mon Coeur 2020 is a bold wine. Perfumed aromas of blueberries, raspberries, and violets come through, though a slight undercurrent of alcohol is also detectable (which isn’t entirely surprising given the wine’s 15% a.b.v.). The palate is rich and jammy, with notes of bramble. Pleasant acidity keeps things from feeling flabby, and the rich, fruity notes do a decent job of keeping the alcohol in check, even if it is still a bit higher than I would prefer. Pair with heavier, well-seasoned fare, like braised short ribs.
89 John McDermott Oct 17, 2023

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2008 ($14, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): Although the vast amount of wine produced in the Rhone Valley is red, consumers should explore the small amount of white wines that originates there because they offer richness and body. The only potential downside of Rhône whites, which Guigal avoids, is that they can come across as heavy if they have insufficient acidity. Guigal, whose red Cotes du Rhône is always easy to recommend (2006 reviewed previously), has fashioned a very pleasing white with excellent uplifting acidity. Floral elements--presumably from including Viognier in the blend--augment the characteristic apricot and peach nuances. This is an excellent introduction to white wines from the area. 87 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010

Coup de Rhone, Cotes du Rhone AOC (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2016 ($30):

White wines from France's Rhone Valley are consistently underrated and undervalued as a consequence. The 2016 Cotes du Rhone blend from Coup de Rhone makes that point emphatically. A blend of predominantly Viognier with Roussanne and Marsanne playing a lesser role, this wine shows exceptional complexity on the nose, with a mix of honeysuckle and tropical fruits. On the palate it is soft and inviting, with uncommon richness without losing its structure and verve. A Platinum award-winner at the 2018 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 94 Robert Whitley Jan 30, 2018

Ferraton Pere & Fils, Cotes Du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Samorens” 2015 ($14, HB Wine Merchants): A nice balance of crisp acidity and a soft texture are on display in this glass of peach, white flowers and pepper aromas, followed by flavors of peach and citrus, with a long mineral driven finish. Seafood is the way to go here.
89 Rich Cook Aug 9, 2016

Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhone Blanc (Rhone Valley, France) “Les Abeilles” 2005 ($12, Palm Bay Imports): Masterful vintner Jean-Luc Colombo creates a host of appealing wines, including this southern Rhône blend of Clairette, Grenache, Viognier and Roussanne. Les Abeilles -- the bees -- is pleasantly fresh, fruity, floral and just complex enough to keep each sip interesting. 89 Marguerite Thomas Mar 6, 2007

E. Guigal, Côtes Du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2018 ($18):

A blend of 60% Viognier, 15% Roussanne, 10% Marsanne, 8% Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc and 2% Grenache Blanc, this wine’s lacy texture and fresh fruit flavors interact beautifully with its energizing acidity, while tantalizing floral notes also contribute to the overall charm. A satisfyingly generous finish carries a suggestion of minerality. Remarkably adaptable to many different foods, I enjoyed it one night with spicy Japanese seafood ramen, and the next with grilled cheese sandwiches.
93 Marguerite Thomas Oct 13, 2020

Château Pégau, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) "Cuvée Lône" 2022 ($25):

An appealing white wine that is sippable and straightforward, vibrant and well balanced, Château Pegau is pleasantly dry, with delicate summery fruit flavors (peaches, pears) tweaked by a lightly salty edge. Located ten minutes north of Avignon, the estate produces both white and red wines. Château Pegau (named for a 14th century wine jug typical of the region) is located on the banks of the Rhône Valley between Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Avignon. The estate includes a traditional farmhouse. The vineyard lies on clay and pebble soils. Vinified in stainless steel vats, this Clairette-dominated blend spent 5 months in stainless steel tanks. The blend as a whole consists of 40% Clairette, 30% Bourboulenc, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 10% Ugni Blanc. Low in alcohol and balanced towards dry rather than sweet, this is a wine that will always taste delicious but may be particularly welcoming during the hot months of our upcoming hot summer.
92 Marguerite Thomas Jun 13, 2023

M. Chapoutier , Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Belleruche" 2021 ($13, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

Wow — this wine packs fantastic value into an affordable bottle. At a mere $13, it offers remarkable depth and complexity. It comprises a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette, and Bourboulenc. Scents of lemon zest, green pears, crisp apples, apricots, and daffodils all fill the glass. Lees aging gives the wine a full-bodied, creamy texture, while stainless steel fermentation preserves a lively freshness. The alcohol, sitting at 13.5%, is perfectly balanced against the fruit and fullness of the wine. This wine is a joy on its own and would pair well with meatier seafood dishes too. If you are looking for a daily-drinker, especially as the autumn weather settles in, give this wine a try.
92 John McDermott Oct 31, 2023

Paul Jaboulet Ainé, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Parallèle 45” 2022 ($17, Skurnik Wines):

Parallèle 45 is a charming and easy going white wine to be enjoyed in all seasons, but it may be particularly perfect for savoring during the warm days of summer and fall. The estate is located less than 2 miles from the Rhône River. The grapes, sourced from approximately 20-year old vines from two nearby family farms sitting on the right bank of the river, include Grenache Blanc (50%), Marsanne (20%), Viognier (10%) and Bourboulenc (10%). This blend offers soft floral aromas, vibrant acidity, modest minerality, and fresh, summery fruit flavors, all enhanced by a gentle silky texture.
92 Marguerite Thomas Jul 25, 2023

Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Belleruche” 2022 ($15, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

The 2022 Belleruche Côtes du Rhône Blanc from Chapoutier offers the combination of liveliness and depth that makes it a versatile companion for many menus. Blended from several white Rhône grapes (Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette and Bourboulenc), it offers opulent fruit, layers of complexity and a texture that exemplifies the fine Rhône Valley style. It has forward aromas of ripe pear, peach and citrus fruits enhanced by floral and tropical fruit nuances. The flavors show the peach, citrus, and tropical fruits interwoven with hints of herbs and spice. This is a delicious example of white Côtes du Rhône and shows the depth and character of the appellation. If you want to try a full-flavored white that is not made of Chardonnay, give the Belleruche Blanc a try.
91 Wayne Belding Jan 9, 2024

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (France) 2021 ($17, Vintus Wines):

The 2021 Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc offers the combination of liveliness and depth that makes it a versatile companion for autumn menus. Drawn from a blend of 60% Viognier and other white Rhône grapes, it offers opulent fruit and a texture that defines the fine Rhône Valley style. It has forward aromas of violets, ripe peach, pear and citrus fruits backed by tropical fruit nuances. The intriguing range of flavors encompasses the peach, citrus, and tropical fruits interwoven with hints of herbs and spice. It has a rich texture that will pair well with a wide range of foods. Enjoy it now or over the next few years.
91 Wayne Belding Feb 28, 2023

La Bastide Saint Dominique, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($15, Simon N Cellars): This wonderfully expressive Côtes du Rhône shows itself as something special right at the outset, with lovely floral aromas that convinced me

that Viognier was a major player. Spinning the bottle around to reveal the back label confirmed that prediction, and the blend turns out to be 50% Viognier, 25% Grenache Blanc and 25% Clairette. Medium-bodied but leaning toward full on the palate, this shows impressive concentration and richness, but the youthful freshness of the wine keeps it light on its feet, with fine acidity and minerality showing in the finish. Sufficiently substantial to work with grilled chicken or white meats but nimble enough for fish dishes, this is as versatile as it is delicious. 91 Michael Franz Aug 13, 2013

La Nerthe, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (France) "Les Cassagnes" 2021 ($26, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

All too often southern Rhône whites can come across and heavy. Not this one. A floral nose captivates immediately, then a seamless blend of the usual Mediterranean white varieties, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, distinguishes itself with a lush combination of stone fruit character offset by bracing acidity. There’s plenty going on here, which makes it a good choice with highly flavored chicken or fish dishes.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2022

Tardieu-Laurent, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône, France) 2008 ($30, Wilson-Daniels): Let’s be direct about this: Most white Côtes du Rhône is a snore. By contrast, this wine is phenomenally layered and interesting, with vivid fruit notes recalling fresh peaches and mandarin oranges. There are also some appealing spice notes from about 20 – 25% new oak, but this element is totally in balance with the other aroma and flavor elements, which include floral aromas and an appealing hint of honey. The blend is 40% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne, 20% Grenache Blanc and 20% Viognier. If there’s a better Côtes du Rhône blanc out there, I’m unaware of it. 91 Michael Franz May 31, 2011

Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (France) "Belleruche" 2021 ($14, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

The 2021 Belleruche Côtes du Rhône Blanc from Chapoutier offers the combination of liveliness and depth that makes it a versatile companion for autumn menus. Drawn from a blend of white Rhône grapes (Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette and Bourboulenc), it offers opulent fruit, layers of complexity and a texture that exemplifies the fine Rhône Valley style. It has forward aromas of ripe peach, pear and citrus fruits backed by floral and tropical fruit nuances. The intriguing range of flavors encompasses the peach, citrus, and tropical fruits interwoven with hints of herbs and spice. Enjoy it now or over the next few years.
90 Wayne Belding Oct 18, 2022

Domaine le Clos des Lumieres, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “L’éctat” 2020 ($21, Cynthia Hurley French Wines):

This Rhône white is a great spring-time wine. Domaine les Clos des Lumieres is a family-owned business with over 75 years of experience in winemaking. They’ve perfected their process to create a refreshing white that is ready to drink upon sale. The vines, some as old as 50 years, are low-yielding but still produce rich flavors. I found cream, melon, and floral notes. If you like Rhône wines and aren’t trying their whites, you are missing out.
90 Vince Simmon Apr 26, 2022

Ferraton, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Samorens” 2012 ($12):

Ferraton is now operating under guidance from the famed Rhône house of Chapoutier, and the wines have spiked in quality during the past few vintages. The reds have already arrived, and this wine shows that the whites are likewise responding to treatment in short order. This features subtle scents and flavors of peaches and pears with a nutty undertone and exemplary underlying acidity for a full-bodied wine. A terrific value.
90 Michael Franz Feb 18, 2014

Louis Bernard, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2022 ($18, Boisset Collection):

Maison Louis Bernard, headquartered today in Gigondas, was founded in 1976 in the heart of the Southern Rhône Valley. This refreshing white wine offers pleasant aromas of white flowers and yellow fruit. The palate is round and generous with flavors of peach and apricot, and the finish is fresh and appetizing. The Côtes du Rhône is one of France’s largest and most diverse appellations, covering more than 35,000 hectares (86,000 acres) and stretching from south of Lyon all the way to Avignon. Wine has been made in this region since at least 125 BC when the early Romans first planted vines. This is blended from Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Viognier.
90 Marguerite Thomas May 16, 2023

M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) "Belleruche" 2009 ($13, Terlato Wines International): Good white Rhone wines fill me with happiness, and this one from M. Chapoutier hits just the right the spot. It may not be wildly complex (this is a $13 wine remember) but it pleases in a great many ways. We are all so used to having fruit driven wines that this one is almost puzzling at first sip with its minerality, integrated acidity, and refreshing, faintly bitter, nuttiness. It’s almost as if what you’re tasting is the skin of the grape, with its rich history of soaking up sun and the vineyard atmosphere. Then the essence of the fruit pulp reveals itself with elements of anise, orange peel, cake crumbs. Delicious on its own, its unpretentiousness and good balance make it very adaptable at the table as well.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 6, 2011

Famille Perrin, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (France) Reserve 2013 ($11, Vineyard Brands): Suggestions of Viognier linger in the floral aromas of this very likable wine. It is clean and bright, with palate-satisfying flavors carrying both fruit and mineral elements. Enjoy it as an appetite-inducing aperitif wine as well as a tasty companion for light chicken, seafood or pasta dishes. Blended from Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne.
89 Marguerite Thomas Nov 4, 2014

Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “La Redonne” 2014 ($18, Palm Bay International):

Many American consumers have never tasted a white Côtes du Rhône wine, much less one made in the northern Rhône. If this is true for you, here’s a very, very good place to start. It is made mostly from Viognier with just a bit of Roussanne. Subtle floral aromas get this off to a great start, and though some tasters want “explosive” aromas from a Viognier-based wine, I much prefer the subtlety shown by this wine. The body is medium in weight, but the flavors are energized by a very bright streak of acidity that lengthens the flavors (white peach, predominantly) and lifts the finish. That finish shows some nice grip, and though it wasn’t clear to me whether the wine draws its definition from mineral notes or the component of Roussanne (or both), this doesn’t make much difference as long as the Viognier’s blousy tendencies are counterbalanced. Although this wine won’t cause Condrieu vintners a lot of sleepless nights for lack of sheer fireworks, it might well cause some stress on account of its excellent balance and value. To place this last point in context, you could buy about five bottles of this for what most Condrieu wines would set you back, and not many bottlings of Condrieu can make that arithmetic look good for them.
89 Michael Franz Mar 17, 2015

Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) "Les Abeilles" 2010 ($11, Palm Bay International): White Côtes du Rhône can be tough, often heavy, lacking acidity. But when they’re balanced, like this one, they are hard to resist. A blend of Clairette (80%) and Roussanne, Colombo captures the slightly peach or apricot stone fruit character while retaining vibrancy and freshness. Sip it by itself as an aperitif or with hors d’oeuvres or put it on the table with sushi. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2012

Mourchon, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) "La Source" 2021 ($17, MacArthur Beverages):

From the village of Seguret in the Dentelles de Montmirail of the Southern Rhône, this white is made of the typical blend of varieties with Viognier taking the lead at 40%. It is very smooth, almost creamy, with very light flavors, tropical fruits and orange citrus with good finishing acidity. The overall effect is one of a wine more soothing than aggressive, as these regional wines can often be.
89 Roger Morris Jan 2, 2024

Vidal-Fleury, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2010 ($17, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): This is a brilliant white Côtes du Rhône. Guigal, the leader in the Rhône, purchased Vidal-Fleury about twenty-five years ago. Their hand, in the form of a healthy amount of Viognier, is apparent in this wine. To lighten and brighten their white Côtes du Rhône, Guigal has gradually increased the amount of Viognier in the blend. The 2010 Vidal-Fleury, with 75% Viognier, has lift and freshness along with captivating floral elements. This is an easy-to-recommend wine for spring and summer. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2012

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2010 ($18, Vintus): Wine lovers know Guigal is one of the top, if not the top, producers of red wines in the Rhône Valley. Their red Côte du Rhône is a consistent winner. Their white Côte du Rhone has been getting better and better as they’ve increased the proportion of Viognier in the blend. The 2010, with its healthy dose of Viognier, is perhaps their best ever, delivering the expected subtle peach and apricot nuances but with an engaging lightness on the palate. It can serve double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany dishes enlivened with spice or red pepper flakes. 88 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012

Perrin et Fils, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve 2009 ($12, Vineyard Brands): I wish regulations prohibited the use of Reserve when that’s all the producer makes (or exports). And the fact is, this wine needs no labeling hype. It’s very good. Made from the typical blend of white Rhone grapes--Viognier, Marsanne, Roussane, Bourblanc and Grenache Blanc--it’s floral and refined. Hints of honeysuckle are a foil for the delicate stone fruit notes. It avoids the heaviness that can plague whites from the southern Rhône. It would be equally at home before as with a meal. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 26, 2010

Eric Textier, Côtes du Rhône Brézème (Rhône Valley, France) Roussanne 2010 ($35, Louis Dressner Selections, LDM Wine): I was skeptical of this wine from first glance, as it seemed too dark for a recent vintage, but my doubts were misplaced. That dark golden color presaged almost decadent richness and concentration, not oxidation. What a delicious surprise. Aromas were seductive: Floral, creamy, ripe pear, apple and peach with dusty mineral notes. In the mouth the fruit was bordering on unctuous, but decisive acidity gave the wine graceful structure and an elegant finish. Bravo M Textier!
93 Rebecca Murphy Jun 4, 2013

Clos Bellane, Cotes du Rhone Villages (Rhône Valley, France) Valreas Blanc 2016 ($24):

This beautiful white blend of Viognier and Roussanne hails from the cru village of Valreas in France’s Rhone Valley and is pure sunshine in a glass. The honeyed notes of Viognier dominate, with hints of tropical and stone fruits shining through.
91 Robert Whitley Jan 14, 2020

Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” Blanc 2022 ($16):

This delightfully refreshing white is crisp yet full of flavor, which makes it a perfect summer wine. Bright suggestions of citrus and melon mingle gracefully on the palate, texturally light but replete with fruitiness plus delicate floral hints. Laudun, located on the right bank of the Rhône along the banks of the small Tave River not quite 10 miles Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is influenced by the region’s Mediterranean climate whose dry, sunny summers stimulate the ripening of the grapes. While this is a wine to simply savor as a summery aperitif it may also serve as a fine white to pair with delicate foods thanks to its invigorating tart finish, which can reset the palate. It’s an elegant companion for mild cheeses, delicate seafood or simply a good tuna sandwich.
93 Marguerite Thomas Jul 11, 2023

Domaine Pélaquié, Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021 ($15):

French wine regulators allow 22 (at current count) villages that produce sufficiently distinctive wine to put their name on the label along with the appellation Côtes du Rhône Villages. It is an elite club, accounting for only about ten percent of the wine from the Rhône Valley. Laudun, one of those 22 villages, is an outlier of sorts because it produces more white wine than average, 28 percent versus 7 percent for the entire Rhône. Domaine Pélaquié’s lively 2021 is delicately aromatic with subtle peachy overtones all balanced by invigorating freshness. Patches of limestone within the village impart a saline-like acidity that adds to the wine’s vivacity. There’s a delectable hint of bitterness in the finish, likely due to a large amount of Clairette (35 percent) in the blend. For completeness, the remainder of the blend is Grenache Blanc, 25 percent; Viognier, 12 percent; Roussanne, 15 percent; Marsanne, 8 percent; and Bourboulenc. Domaine Pélaquié’s Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun Blanc is one in which the price has yet to catch up to the quality. Don’t miss it.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2023

M. Chapoutier, Cotes-du-Rhone (France) "Belleruche" 2004 ($12, Paterno): Chapoutier fares much better with his Cotes-du-Rhone rouge than its blanc, with this vintage being an excellent example. While the '04 blanc is somewhat lackluster, the rouge shows an intense red berry character, savory scents of leather and earth and fine tannins that deliver a pleasing mouthfeel. 87 Robert Whitley Jun 20, 2006

Famille Perrin , Côtes-du-Rhone Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2013 ($50, Vineyard Brands): This is a graceful white wine blended from Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc that shows a full- to medium-bodied profile, with peach-type flavors. Rather than scream for attention, it does an excellent job of dovetailing with foods, especially summer fare such as ratatouille, charcuterie, chicken or tuna salad. Thanks to its balanced acidity I’ve discovered it’s even a pretty good wine to enjoy with artichokes, which many people normally find challenging to match with wine.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jul 19, 2016

La Nerthe, Côtes-Du-Rhône Blanc (France) “Les Cassagnes” 2021 ($25, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):

La Nerthe’s Les Cassagnes white grapes — Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne — grow on high elevation, terraced vineyards interlaced with green wooded areas (Cassagnes means “green oaks” in Provençale). The work in the vineyards is done following organic farming techniques. The fruit is hand-harvested during the night or very early in the morning, and the grapes are hand pressed while the ambient temperature is still relatively cool. The must is fermented at low temperatures, and the emerging wine is bottled after aging in stainless steel and concrete vats for 6 months (the 2021 wine is La Nerte’s first vintage to be aged in concrete vats in addition to the stainless steel). After its fermentation the wine emerged with a pale yellow color and enticing aromas including a subtle floral scent. On the palate it offers a host of palate-pleasing fruit flavors including peach and pear, and a texture that is both round and elegant. Les Cassagnes is delicious on its own as well as a companionable partner for food.
94 Marguerite Thomas Dec 27, 2022

Famille Lancon, Côtes-Du-Rhône Blanc (France) “La Solitude” 2021 ($14):

Here is a relatively new entry level white from the family owning the fabled Domaine de La Solitude Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In the 1980s, brothers Michel and Jean Lançon took over management and today, Florent Lancon, Michael’s son, oversees the winemaking. A blend of 60% Clairette, 30% Viognier, and 10% Grenache Blanc, this 2021 white displays lively aromas of citrus and green apple with a hint of spice. Medium full on the palate, it is round and generous thanks to the Viognier component but retains fresh fruit flavors contributed by the two others. The finish is round, with just enough acidity for a palate cleansing aftertaste. A definite food wine at a great price.
88 Norm Roby Feb 28, 2023

Domaine les Bruyères, Crozes Hermitage (Rhône, France) 2004 ($21, Elite Wines): This sumptuous white from the Northern Rhône has intense citrusy notes (preserved lemon, candied orange peel), plus a long, satisfying finish. It's every bit what the French refer to as a "vin de soif" or thirst quenching wine. 90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 28, 2006

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2014 ($30, Vineyard Brands): One of the best white wines I have tasted this year, redolent of autumn fruit with a distinct minerality on the finish, this is beautifully structured and so rivals the finest Rhône blends from Hermitage or, farther south, Châteauneuf. It’s not cheap, but should age well for a good five or more years, become nuttier with time in bottle.
93 Paul Lukacs Apr 5, 2016

E. Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2018 ($28):

Guigal, an undisputed leader in the Rhône, shows his considerable talents with this white wine from what is best known for its reds. White wine from Crozes-Hermitage comprises less than ten percent of the appellation’s total production. This one, a blend of mostly (90+ percent) of Marsanne with Roussanne providing the remainder, delivers delicate and refined stone fruit flavors with wonderful acidity, a characteristic often lacking in Rhône whites. Though delicate, it has good concentration, impeccable balance, which gives it a real presence. A little bottle age won’t hurt it, though it’s quite delightful to drink now. It has enough depth to hold up to spicy foods and enough sophistication for roast chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 12, 2021

David Reynaud, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Aux Bêtises” 2015 ($30):

David Reynaud makes astonishing wines from Syrah in Cornas, but in small quantities that are spread thinly across the work…so you might not know of his talents. The whites are even harder to find in the USA, as Rhône whites have never really gotten much traction here (nor do many of them deserve to, quite frankly, especially Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc). So much for the bad news. The good news is that this wine (made from Marsanne and Roussanne) is totally convincing and probably worth half-again as much money. The aromas include scents of fresh hay, candle wax, and fresh figs, and the fig note shows up on the palate as well, with excellent richness counterbalanced by bright acidity. A very, very impressive wine.
93 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2016

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2012 ($24, Vineyard Brands): Made entirely from Marsanne, this is a big, rich wine with just enough acidity to stay in balance and allow its striking notes of roasted nuts, figs, and freshly mown hay to shine. Very expressive in both aroma and flavor, this is a show-stopper.
91 Michael Franz Nov 26, 2013

Domaine Belle, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (Rhône, France) "Les Terres Blanches” 2008 ($30, Robert Kacher Selections):

“Les Terres Blanches” is an impressively complex wine blended from Marsanne and Roussanne, with citrus-edged fruit recalling quince and wild honey. There’s a lovely floral topnote as well as aromatic suggestions of straw, candle wax and subtle toast. The wine shows impressive weight and flavor authority for a northern Rhône white in this price category, and yet it remains nimble, bright, and very versatile with food. 90 Michael Franz Dec 7, 2010

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Domaine Mule Blanche” 2012 ($49, Frederick Wildman): This wine has been made by the house of Jaboulet for a long time, and those who have enjoyed it over the years will find this to be one of the better renditions made over the course of the past decade. Made from equal measures of Marsanne and Roussanne, it is broad and generous in character, with flavors recalling mandarin oranges and stone fruits. A nice spice note marks the finish, which is clean and persistent but also grippy enough to permit this to stand up to pretty substantial fish dishes.
90 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2015

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Hermitage Blanc (Rhône, France) 2008 ($68, Vineyard Brands): Two Rhone Valley powerhouses, the Perrin family of Châteauneuf du Pape, and Nicholas Jaboulet of the eponymous house in Hermitage, have forged an alliance and brought out a new line of wines. Judging from this one, it will be a successful project. Although most Hermitage is red, a small amount of the appellation is devoted to white and when made by a conscientious producer, such as this one, it’s a captivating wine. A blend of Marsanne (70%) and Roussanne, it combines a subtle stone fruit quality with an engaging earthy/chalky notes. It has remarkable balance. It’s firm and dense--almost a thick, lanolin-like texture--but not heavy. Enjoyable now, to be sure, it has plenty of acidity and stuffing to evolve the way. 92 Michael Apstein Nov 9, 2010

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Hermitage Blanc (Rhône, France) 2008 ($68, Vineyard Brands):

Two Rhone Valley powerhouses, the Perrin family of Châteauneuf du Pape, and Nicholas Jaboulet of the eponymous house in Hermitage, have forged an alliance and brought out a new line of wine. Judging from this one, it will be a successful project. Although most Hermitage is red, a small amount of the appellation is devoted to white and when made by a conscientious producer, such as this one, it’s a captivating wine. A blend of Marsanne (70%) and Roussanne, it combines a subtle stone fruit quality with an engaging earthy/chalky notes. It has remarkable balance. It’s firm and dense--almost a thick, lanolin-like texture--but not heavy. Enjoyable now, to be sure, it has plenty of acidity and stuffing to evolve the way. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 12, 2010

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Hermitage Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Chevalier de Sterimberg” 2011 ($104): This wine is sourced from 10 acres of vines on the magnificent hill of Hermitage, partly planted in granite soils and partly in limestone-laced clay. Comprised of two-thirds Marsanne and one-third Roussanne, 15% of it was vinified and aged in new oak, about 20% in concrete eggs, and the balance in older wood. The new oak shows more prominently than these percentages would lead one to believe, but the wood-based notes are of the highest possible class, and contribute gorgeous spicy accents without distracting from the wine’s subtle aromas and flavors or roughing up the finish. The fruit notes recall white melon and autumn pear, with a subtle nutty undertone. Likely to improve for at least 5 years and quite possibly for more than a decade.
92 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2015

Maison Nicolas Perrin, Hermitage Blanc (Rhône, France) 2008 ($68, Vineyard Brands): This wine is one of four releases from a new joint venture involving Nicolas Jaboulet and the Perrin family, famous for Chateau Beaucastel from Châteauneuf du Pape as well as other southern Rhône wines. It is a solid effort, but only that, as both the aromas and flavors are rather muted and indistinct, while nevertheless being pleasant. Hermitage Blanc can become significantly more interesting after time to develop in the bottle, and we can hope that that will prove to be the case with this wine, which I was dying to try--but then not dying to finish. 88 Michael Franz Sep 7, 2010

Domaine de la Citadelle, IGP Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) “Viognier de la Citadelle” 2013 ($17): The regulations for the AOP (formerly known as AOC) Luberon require the wines be made from a blend of grapes because it’s the tradition in the region. That’s why this one, made entirely from Viognier, a white grape whose home is the northern Rhône, but thrives at Domaine de la Citadelle, carries the IGP designation instead of a more prestigious AOP. But don’t let the classification deter you from embracing this delicate and flowery example. Not particularly heavy or alcoholic, as many Viognier outside of the northern Rhône can be, Domaine de la Citadelle’s bottling is a delight as it dances on the palate revealing subtle notes of white flowers and peach-like flavors. It’s a great choice for roast pork.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2014

Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021 ($15, Bowler):

I am reviewing this bargain-priced beauty again for emphasis since I just tasted it again. This seductive white shows the potential of white wines from the southern Rhône. A subtle peach-like character merges with a firm minerality. The combination delights the palate and invigorating acidity in the finish magnifies it charms. There is not a trace of heaviness or over ripeness in this delectable white. Domaine Pélaquié has fashioned a sophisticated white that will enhance summertime dining.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 27, 2023

Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” 2022 ($15):

Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative. A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. It has sufficient racy edginess to hold up against sushi, or even chicken in a cream sauce. A delightful touch of alluring bitterness in the finish reminds you it is not overly fruity, which makes it perfect on the dinner table.
91 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023

Château de Montfaucon, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “Comtesse Madeleine” 2021 ($30):

Lirac, an often-overlooked appellation of the southern Rhône just to the west of Châteauneuf du Pape, is one of two Rhône appellations that makes all three colors, reds, whites, and rosés. (Vacqueyras is the other.) From what I heard from many during my recent trip to the area, Château de Montfaucon is one of the leading producers there. After tasting this splendid white, I have no reason to disagree. Made from a single variety, Clairette, the Comtesse Madeleine is atypical for the estate which usually uses a blend of grapes for their wines. The vines are old and are planted on a sandy limestone soil. The oak-aging shows but is not overwhelming or intrusive. It just reinforces the wine’s power and depth. A bold white to be sure, the Comtesse Madeleine cuvée, their flagship white, has impeccable balance, hints of citrus, and fabulous freshness. It is opulent without being oily or heavy. If you can resist its substantial charms now, I would give it a year or two to come together more.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2023

Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reine des Bois” 2022 ($45, Kysela Pere et Fils):

Though more well known for its red wines, Lirac produces some lively whites, like this one. That it is made from organic biodynamically grown grapes indicates to me that the winemaking team is more compulsive in the vineyard because they can’t just spray to control disease. And it shows in the pure and lively white wine. Great aromatics draw you in and a subtle fleshy white peach-like nuance keeps you coming back for more. This nicely balanced white would work well as a stand-alone aperitive or with spiced Asian fare this summer.
90 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023

Domaine de la Citadelle, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Châtaignier” 2013 ($17): Though the Luberon is known mostly for its red wines, notable whites are popping up in that appellation. This one, from one of the region’s top producers, is a blend of mostly (70%) Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Domaine de la Citadelle has avoided heaviness, something that plagues many Rhône whites, in this wine. Fresh, clean and bright it conveys a touch of nuttiness that complements the delicate stone fruit flavors. An attractive and subtle bitter finish makes it an ideal choice to accompany a seafood salad.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2014

Domaine de la Citadelle, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) “Gouverneur Saint-Auban” 2013 ($25): Domaine de la Citadelle, one of the top producers in the Luberon and a name to remember, makes a range of wines. This wine, labeled Gouverneur Saint-Auban, is their top white (They also make a stunning red under the same moniker). A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc, it is fermented in older oak barrels, which adds complexity -- but not oaky or woody flavors. Alexis Rousset-Rouard, who runs this family domaine, sums it up, “The oak brings more to it than it takes away.” Subtle stone fruit flavors lend intrigue while energetic acidity prevents the heaviness that can plague white wines from the Rhône. Try it with a roast chicken this winter.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2014

M. Chapoutier, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) “La Ciboise” 2013 ($15, Terlato Wines International): Though technically part of the Rhône, the Luberon is cool because of its elevation, with the harvest a couple of weeks later than Châteauneuf du Pape. The cooler climate likely explains the bright profile of this zippy wine. Without even a whiff of heaviness that sometimes plagues white wines from the Rhône, Chapoutier’s La Ciboise has a spiced note, is bracingly clean with even a slight prickly edginess in the finish. It will awaken your palate and brighten your dinner.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2015

La Vieille Ferme, Lubéron (Rhône Valley, France) White 2012 ($9, Vineyard Brands):

It’s almost embarrassing to give a $9 wine a 90 point score, but this is a truly delicious wine. I’ve had my share of Vieille Ferme wines over the years, starting ages ago when I couldn’t afford anything pricier (in those days the wines were OK, nothing special other than the fact that they were both drinkable and affordable). A blend of Vermentino, Grenache and Ugni Blanc, the wine is delicate and refreshing rather than hefty. It has a forthright current of fruit rippling with minerality and crisp acidity that carry the momentum along to a surprisingly satisfying conclusion. 90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 3, 2013

Domaine du Grand Montmirail, Muscat de Beaumes de Venise (Rhône Valley, France) 2015 ($35):

If you find yourself in Provence, be sure to seek out a bottle of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise. This one, from la Domaine de Grand Montmirail, is fresh tasting, with gentle hints of dried fruit. With its clean, not-too-sweet flavors it can serve as an invigorating aperitif, but can also be a good accompaniment to richly textured and flavored foods such as ripe cheeses. Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is the quintessential result of Provence’s Mediterranean climate which is characterized by long hot, dry summers, autumnal rains and relatively dry, temperate winters.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 25, 2019

Domaine de Durban, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) 2011 ($30, Kermit Lynch): Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a unique fortified sweet wine, has long been held in high regard, having received appellation status in 1945 and elevated to a cru, comparable to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in 2005. Domaine de Durban, one of the appellation’s top producers, makes a consistently glorious traditionally styled wine. Honeyed, but amazingly not heavy, it finishes with uplifting acidity that imparts an invigorating vibrancy. Its complexity appears gradually, with time in the glass, and makes you want to savor the wine slowly. It’s a natural to pair with a cheese course or serve as dessert. I avoid serving it, or any sweet wine, with desert because the sweetness of the two can clash. It’s available in half-bottles as well, one of which will serve four people easily.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2014

Chateau Routas, Pays du Var (Provence, France) Viognier “Coquelicot” 2006 ($18, Lauber Imports): Here's a cautionary tale: Scotsman David Murray spent 20 years as a wine buff reading all the wine books, tasting, tasting, tasting, and investing in a substantial wine collection. Then he went the next step and sank a not-so-small fortune into buying Chateau Routas, a wine estate located in the beautiful heart of Provence just about halfway between the Mediterranean Sea and the foothills of the Alps. This is the kind of thing that can happen when one's passion gets out of hand -- and wouldn't we all like to do the same thing! The difference between Murray and most of the rest of us, however, is that he is a) a wealthy entrepreneur, and b) he has great contacts, such as his close friend, the wine guru Hugh Johnson. Oh well, if we can't follow Murray's lead and buy our own French chateau, we can at least drink Chateau Routas wines, including this terrific Viognier. A dollop of Chardonnay adds structure, but the aroma is full-throttle Viognier, with its characteristic elements of peach, honeysuckle and jasmine. Soft and lush in the mouth, the apricot-type flavors are just restrained enough to make it an appealing wine for food. 89 Marguerite Thomas Aug 14, 2007

Georges Vernay, Rhône Valley (France) “Les Chaillées de l’Enfer” 2010 ($114, Simon N Cellars): This is, quite simply, the best wine made from Viognier that I have ever tasted. This producer is an absolute master of this grape variety, as is demonstrated by the Vin de Pays releases, which were better than almost anyone else’s Condrieu releases in 2010 and 2011. With that said, however, the wonders worked with the variety in Condrieu by Georges Vernay’s daughter Christine, her husband Paul, and her brother Luc are just astonishing. This wine is extremely rich and concentrated, yet it never quite seems heavy, as the famously fresh acidity lent by the 2010 vintage supports the wine’s weight from the first sip right through the finish, which lasts for more than a full minute. Floral aromatic notes get the wine off to a great start, yet they aren’t excessively pungent, and the perfume is really beautifully balanced with fruit-based scents. Stone fruit flavors recalling peaches and apricots are fresh and precisely delineated, with very prominent mineral notes riding along with the ripe sweetness of the fruit and providing a savory counterpoint throughout this wine’s unbelievably long string of taste sensations. This is not just a great wine, but an eye-popping, jaw-droppingly great wine.
97 Michael Franz Nov 26, 2013

Jean-Luc Colombo, Saint Peray (Rhône, France) "La Belle de Mai" 2006 ($36, Palm Bay Imports): Saint Peray is a relatively obscure region that works predominantly with Marsanne and Roussanne, and were you to try this excellent wine, you'd likely wonder why the appellation isn't more widely known. Light gold in color, the wine is moderately rich but still fresh, with subtle floral aromas and a broad, soft texture. Nearly full-bodied, and showing the influence of oak more than overtly oaky aromas or flavors, this is a very well made wine that is a fine choice for more robust foods calling for white wine, such as scallops or swordfish. 89 Michael Franz Jul 15, 2008

M. Chapoutier, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Granilites” Blanc 2020 ($38, Folio Fine Wine Partners):

While the Rhône Valley is known for exotic white blends, this is one region where Marsanne particularly stands out, often alone, as it does in this lovely white. The wine is a very clean, but full-bodied white with a general warm fruitiness, like mellow apples and a whiff of vanilla, before a delightful peppery finish.
91 Roger Morris Apr 2, 2024

Paul Jaboulet Aîne, Saint-Peray (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Sauvagères” 2016 ($30):

Saint-Peray is undoubtedly the least well-known appellation in the Northern Rhône Valley, but insiders know that it can make excellent white wine, as it emphatically did in this instance. The 2016 vintage certainly did its part, as a long growing season with an essentially perfect late ripening period permitted growers to pick when the balance between sugar and acidity was exactly what they wanted. That doesn’t diminish the accomplishment of the Jaboulet team, as their timing made the best of a great situation. This all-Marsanne wine is nearly full-bodied and strikingly flavorful, but still fabulously energetic through the mid-palate and finish. It displays ripe aromas and flavors recalling peach preserves and wild honey, but with a zesty spritz of acidity to brighten everything up. Jaboulet is a formerly great house recently returned to top form under new ownership, and this is a great case in point.
94 Michael Franz Sep 11, 2018

Cave de Tain, Saint-Péray (Rhône Valley, France) “Fleur de Roc” 2009 ($20, Cognac One): Saint-Péray, a tiny appellation in the Rhône, produces only white or sparkling wine. Cave de Tain is the local, highly regarded cooperative there. Like many Rhône white wines, this one delivers fleshy yellow fruit flavors. But unlike many white Rhônes, it also has lovely brightness and vivacity to balance the usual waxy texture. It does double duty--rich enough to stand alone as an aperitif, it has sufficient verve to complement a meal. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2012

Domaine Philippe Faury, St. Joseph Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2009 ($27, Winebow): St. Joseph, well known for its reds, also produces a small amount (less than 10% of the appellation) of white wine from the usual white grapes of the Rhône, Marsanne and Roussanne. In this one, the substantial amount of Roussanne (40%), imparts freshness and verve to the fruitier and slightly lanolin-like textured Marsanne. Overall, it’s an enchanting delicate combination of fresh apple and pear-like flavors. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2012

Tardieu-Laurent, St. Peray (Rhône, France) Vieilles Vignes 2008 ($38, Wilson Daniels): Not much St. Peray is made in the northern Rhône, and very little of that makes it to the USA. Consequently, this is a rather obscure wine that might not seem like a promising impulse buy for uninitiated wine lovers, especially in light of its $38 price tag. However, it is a terrific example of the breed and a winning wine in all respects, with lovely fruit edged with crisp acidity and interesting accent notes of straw, wet stones, and subtle floral notes. Made form equal parts Roussanne and Marsanne (from 100 year-old vines), this will actually improve for another couple of years. 92 Michael Franz May 31, 2011

Anne Pichon, Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) Viognier “Sauvage” 2021 ($22, T. Edward Wines):

The collective name of Pichon’s wines is “Sauvage” which, in French, means “wild” rather than “savage” and refers to the estate’s comparatively hands-off approach to wine growing. The “Sauvage” Viognier grapes, which are organically grown in sand and pebbly soils, were unsulfured. They received only a light pressing and were vinified in stainless steel tanks. This delicate Viognier is relatively low in alcohol (13.5 %) and is delicate and zesty, offering a pleasant change from today’s plethora of heavy, oaky white wines.
92 Marguerite Thomas Feb 7, 2023

Domaine de Fondrèche, Ventoux Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2014 ($17, Robert Kacher Selection): Ventoux, an appellation in the Southern Rhône Valley, is known more for red wines than for whites. This wine changes that impression immediately. It’s crisp and clean, with a hint of white flowers and none of the heaviness frequently seen in southern Rhône whites. Long and precise, it’s a revelation to see what this appellation can produce in white.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 27, 2015

Domaine Georges Vernay, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes (Rhône Valley, France) Viognier “Le Pied de Samson” 2011 ($35, Simon “N” Cellars): This remarkable wine I surprising on several different levels. Most important is the fact that it offers very expressive aromas and flavors and overall quality that is closely comparable to rare and expensive bottlings of Condrieu that ring up for twice as much money--or more. Also very

surprising is that the 2011 rendition of this wine is so strikingly strong. Had I tasted it blind, I would have guessed that it was made in the sensational 2010 vintage, and once I tried the wine, I found myself double-checking the label to assure that I hadn’t been mistaken when registering 2011 in my memory. This producer is among a small handful of true masters of Viognier in the entire world, and this rendition shows complete mastery from the soaring floral aromas to the rich but balanced stone fruit flavors and through to the fresh, balanced, very persistent finish. 93 Michael Franz Oct 15, 2013

Domaine Jean Vullien & Fils, Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron (Rhône-Alpes, France) Roussanne "Les Divolettes" 2018 ($23, Jeff Wellburn Selections): The village of Chignin lies in the Alps of eastern France. Here, on the steep, south-facing slopes, the Bergeron grapes reach full ripeness.

Known as Roussanne to most of the wine world, Bergeron from Chignin has a rich and opulent style. The 2018 Chignin-Bergeron “Les Divolettes” from Jean Vullien offers luscious fruit, layers of complexity and a rich texture. It has forward aromas of ripe peach, pear and orange fruits backed by floral, cream and tropical fruit nuances. The intriguing range of flavors encompasses the peach, pear and tropical fruits interwoven with hints of cream and spice. Its rich texture reflects the high quality of the fruit sources and the winemaking skill of the Vullien family. Enjoy it with the local cheese – Tomme de Savoie – or a simply roasted chicken dish.
90 Wayne Belding Dec 1, 2020

Domaine la Tour Vielle, Banyuls (Roussillon, France) Reserva NV ($28, Kermit Lynch): This non-vintage reserve Banyuls illustrates what extensive aging does to the lasting quality of the wine. It spent one year in glass bonbonnes followed by four years in oak barrels concentrating the flavors without losing overlapping layers of fresh fruit. It’s rich and tactile showing black cherries, walnuts, prunes, 16.5% alcohol and great length. This is a complex sweet wine at an attractive price. 93 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine la Tour Vielle, Banyuls (Roussillon, France) “Rimage Mise Tardive” 2008 ($25, Kermit Lynch): The 2008 Rimage was aged for three years and has an appealing concentration of fruit and roasted nuts. The flavors are dense and nicely balanced displaying layers of ripe fruit, a hint of oxidation and 16.5% alcohol. This is a lovely complex fortified wine with great concentration and finesse. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine Madeloc, Banyuls (Roussillon, France) 2010 ($23, Fruits of the Vine): Grenache Noir provides the fresh plumy aromas that follow over to the grapy flavors with hints of ripe dark plums. The sweetness is balanced with good acidity and the finish is medium with 16.5% alcohol and a slight candied accent. 500ml. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine St. Sebastien, Banyuls (Roussillon, France) "Inspiration Ardente" NV ($25, Quigley Fine Wines): A sweet dessert-style Banyuls, with 16% alcohol and a trace of oxidation, it has good fruit, acidity and length, finishing with traces of ripe plums and spices. This Banyuls stands in nicely as an accompaniment to a fruit-based dessert or as an after-dinner drink. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine St. Sebastien, Banyuls (Roussillon, France) "Inspiration Ardente" 2008 ($25, Quigley Fine Wines): A sweet dessert-style Banyuls, with 16% alcohol and a trace of oxidation, it has good fruit, acidity and length, finishing with traces of ripe plums and spices. This Banyuls stands in nicely as an accompaniment to a fruit-based dessert or as an after-dinner drink. 500ml. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine la Tour Vielle, Banyuls (Roussillon, France) “Rimage” 2009 ($25, Kermit Lynch): Rimage is a Catalan word meaning “aged berry.” This Banyuls is made

with no intended oxidation allowing the fruit of the Grenache Noir to come through. The aromas and flavors show black cherry with a trace of walnuts. It’s a deeply flavored wine with 16.5% alcohol and no heat through the finish but plenty of length. 25 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine Madeloc, Banyuls Blanc (Roussillon, France) “Asphodeles” 2010 ($23, Fruits of the Vine): One of the few white Banyuls tasted during my recent visit to Roussillon, this has a bright tawny color and orange scents of Malvoisie. The honeyed flavors are richly textured, sweet and spicy, with 16% alcohol and good length with plenty of fruit. 500ml. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine Boudou, Clot del Pila (Côtes du Rousillon, France) “Les Cargolines” 2014 ($14, Fruit of the Vine): A Grenache-based red from sunny, dry vineyards just north of France’s southeastern Spanish border, this wine is filled with bright cherry and plum fruit flavors which are enhanced by subtle notes echoing leather and savory spice. Well-structured but soft and inviting, it is a wine to drink over the next couple of years, not one that will reward long cellaring.
90 Paul Lukacs May 3, 2016

Domaine la Tour Vieille, Collioure (Roussillon, France) Puig Amheille 2007 ($26, Kermit Lynch):

Puig Amheille is a bright and tasty blend of Grenache and Mourvedre that is supported by bright crisp acidity and a trace of minerality. It’s earthy and fruity with spice accents, firm nicely integrated tannins, 14.5% alcohol and good length with plenty of fruit and no heat. Kermit Lynch is a Bay Area Francophile who knows his French wine values. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Domaine la Tour Vieille, Collioure (Roussillon, France) Puig Criol 2008 ($24, Kermit Lynch): Puig Criol is a fruity blend of Grenache and Syrah that echoes a southern Rhone blend but without the concentration. Bright and fruity with ripe raspberry scents and flavors, it has good length, structure and fine tannins. The finish is a little short with 14.5% alcohol and no heat. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Domaine la Tour Vieille, Collioure (Roussillon, France) La Pinede 2008 ($25, Kermit Lynch): La Pinede is a very pleasant rose Syrah and Grenache with a brilliant pale pink color, bright cherry-berry aromas, good length and structure, 14.5% alcohol and plenty of lingering fruit in the finish, with chewy tannins. This pleasant rose could very easily pass for a light red. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Emile Cazes, Collioure (Roussillon, France) “Notre Dame des Anges” 2009 ($32, Robert Kacher Selections): This is a wine of great depth in color and flavor. The aromatics are forward with dark fruits and hints of vanilla. It has texture, layers of fruit, 14% alcohol and plenty of length through the smooth finish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Domaine Singla, Côte du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) Castell Vel 2007 ($35, Five Grapes): This 100% Syrah is loaded with ripe berry aromas and flavors, seasoned

with sweet French oak spices. It has texture, fine tannins, plenty of fruit, very good balance, 15% alcohol, structure and plenty of length with no heat. Castell Vell was one of few 100% varietal Syrahs I tasted in Roussillon and given the quality of this wine, there should be more straight varietal wines.
92 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Domaine Singla, Côte du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) El Moli 2008 ($30, Five Grapes): El Moli is a blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir and Carignan that was aged in mostly one-used oak for 14 months. The color is a very deep ruby and the aromatics are forward ripe berry and spice. The richly textured flavors are layered with sweet fruit, firm refined tannins, 14% alcohol and good length. All three of the single vineyard wines from Dom. Singla were among the best I tasted in Roussillon.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Domaine Treloar, Côte du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) Tahi 2007 ($20, Bradley Allen Imports): Tahi, the Maori word for “one” that owner/winemaker John Hesford brought with him from his time studying enology in New Zealand, is a blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir and Mourvedre. It is a deep ripe wine with a dense color, richly textured layers of fruit, mineral notes, good structure, 14% alcohol and a long finish. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Domaine Piquemal, Côte du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) “Pygmalion” 2007 ($19, Beaune Imports): This reasonably priced blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir and Carignan offers good berry aromas and flavors, moderate tannins, brisk acidity, 15% alcohol and plenty of length and structure through the finish, with no heat. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Joel Gott, Côtes Castalanes (Roussillon, France) Grenache "Shatter" 2014 ($20):

An unusual and very delicious wine, Shatter is medium-bodied yet full and lush on the palate thanks to its fruit density. It has soft tannins and is refined and well structured. The Grenache vines grow in Maury, a village in Southwestern France better known for its dessert wines. Maury’s black, nutrient-poor soil, along with strong winds and scorching heat, stress the vines and cause “shatter” in the grape clusters (shatter naturally thins the vines, leaving smaller clusters of intensely concentrated grapes). Shatter is a collaboration between Joel Gott and Trinchero Family Wines.
93 Marguerite Thomas Feb 13, 2018

Famille Lafage, Côtes Catalanes IGP (Roussillon, France) Carignan Vieilles Vignes “Tessellae” 2019 ($16, European Cellars, Eric Solomon Selections):

According to Jancis Robinson, et al., in Wine Grapes, Carignan, also known as Mazuelo, is an ancient grape variety that can be found in many wine regions in the world. The Lafage family have been growing grapes in the Roussillon region of southern France since 1791. Initially, they sold grapes to the local cooperative winery, keeping enough to make wines for the family. Today the family has over 160 hectares (395 acres) organically-grown vines (though not certified), many of which are 50 years or older. For example, the Carignan grapes in this wine come from 70 year-old vines. Apparently, this is good news for us, because Carignan is thought to make much better wine from 50 plus year-old vines, and the grapes for this wine come from 70 year-old. It is a bright and lively, ruby-red wine with flavors of red cherry, and raspberry, pomegranate laced with floral and dried herb aromas. It is light-bodied and balanced with crisp acidity and lightly chalky tannins. Serve it with a chicken salad, charcuterie or a butternut squash soup.
92 Rebecca Murphy Apr 4, 2023

Domaine la Casanove, Côtes de Catalanes (Roussillon, France) La Colomina 2006 ($10, European Cellars): This is a tasty blend of Carignan, Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvedre that is good quality for the price. Deeply colored with a black core, the aromatics are dark fruits like blackberry and black currant. The flavors are nicely textured with balanced tannins and acidity, 14.5% alcohol and a long pleasant finish with no heat.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Domaine la Casanove, Côtes de Catalanes (Roussillon, France) “La Garrique” 2006 ($18, European Cellars): La Garrique is a blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache Noir, one-third each with a good depth of flavor and nice length. The color is a deep black-ruby and the nose shows ripe berry and spice notes that extend to the textured flavor. This is a wine with big fruit, balanced acidity, a touch of oak, 14.5% alcohol and good length. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Château de Caladroy, Côtes de Rousillon Villages (Roussillon, France) “Cuvée les Schistes” 2010 ($18, Vintage '59): Perhaps due to the sun-soaked growing conditions in Roussillon, this wine is reliably ripe and flavorful in every vintage-and I’ve tasted it for at least eight years running. But with that said, it is more remarkable still that the wine is not just a warm climate workhorse in stylistic terms, but rather a complex, structured, mineral-tinged object lesson in classy, layered character. Moreover, while the wine is admirably consistent from year to year, it must also be noted that the 2010 is exceptionally good, showing beautifully now but promising to get even better over the next three years. A wine to buy--in quantity. 92 Michael Franz Dec 4, 2012

Domaine de Bila-Haut, Côtes du Roussillion Villages Lesquerde (France) "L’esquerda" 2016 ($28, Sera Wine Imports):

Now here’s a ridiculous value wine for you -- a 60/40 Syrah / Grenache blend that’s multi-faceted, showing vibrant earthy minerality that’s not bretty or overwrought, riding beautifully alongside black and blue berry fruit, soft oak spice and delivered in terrifically dry, food friendly style. Run for a case or two of this!
95 Rich Cook Nov 6, 2018

Domaine de Bila-Haut, Côtes du Roussillion Villages Lesquerde (France) “L’esquerda” 2017 ($28, Sera Wine Imports):

I was a big fan of the 2016 iteration of this wine, and the 2017 falls right in line with quality. It’s mainly Syrah, with a bump from dashes of Grenache and Carignane, and it’s long on blue fruit, rich herbs and food friendly acidity. The finish is very well integrated already, and will continue to fold in the oak notes with a bit of time in the cellar. A roasted pork loin or a marbled beef rib eye will suit this beautifully.
92 Rich Cook Jul 30, 2019

Agly Brothers, Côtes du Roussillon (Roussillon, France) 2010 ($38, HB Wine Merchants): An older, yet current release wine that's a joint venture for France's Chapoutier and the Laughton family (known for their Australian Jasper Hill label) that's equal parts Syrah, Grenache and Carignane and delivers the best of both worlds. It's a big boy, with a ripe nose of blackberry, plum and brown spice that leads to a bold palate with plenty of oak spice and stone minerality joining the ripe black fruit. Decant well and serve with roasted meats.
93 Rich Cook Nov 29, 2016

Famille Lafage, Côtes du Roussillon (Roussillon, France) "Tessellae" Old Vines 2014 ($14, European Cellars):

This is a blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, which could raise the question, "Why not just buy Côtes du Rhône, which is usually pretty good and always easy to find?" The answer is that this wine is much better than almost any $14 Côtes du Rhône you can find, and better than most $20 bottles from more glorified southern Rhône villages such as Vacqueyreas. Moreover, plenty of retailers are selling this for only $12 or even less. It shows excellent concentration but still seems natural and fresh, with no over-ripeness, no-over extraction, no excessive wood, and no cellar tricks. The fruit is very expressive, but there are also savory nuances that lend remarkable complexity for a wine at this price level. Surely one of the best bargains I've tasted during 2017.
92 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2017

Jamais Renoncer, Côtes du Roussillon (Roussillon, France) 2017 ($15, Wine Insiders):

With just a quick whiff and sip, you’ll know you’re in southern France with this wine, but it won’t be quite so easy to know how far east or west, as this shows quality that could make you think you’re enjoying $30 Gigondas rather than a $15 Côtes du Roussillon. The blend of 45% Syrah, 45% Carignan and 10% Grenache shows lots of punchy (but not obvious) fruit with lots of little savory, spicy and herbal accents and just enough wood influence to provide framing for the wine’s ebullient juiciness. Convincingly delicious. A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.
92 Michael Franz Apr 9, 2019

Saint Roch, Côtes du Roussillon (France) “Chimères” 2013 ($17): A delicious blend of 40% Grenache, 20% Carignan, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre, this southern French beauty offers excellent value. It is suppler on the palate than Rhône wines made of the same grapes, perhaps due to the warmer temperatures in Roussillon, but it still offers plenty of enticing flavor. It’s a wine that seems ideal to drink with grilled or roasted pork, no matter the cut.
91 Paul Lukacs Apr 5, 2016

Bila-Haut, Cotes du Roussillon Villages (France) “Occultum Lapidem” 2014 ($30, HB Wine Merchants): A fine blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignane from what must be the longest appellation name on the planet. It shows lively pepper notes that you expect from the area, with blackberry, blueberry, plum, dried herbs and soft spice, with dry dusty style, firm structure and a long finish that brings a savory note to the front. A wonderful food wine. Try this with something wild -- I'm thinking roasted boar sounds perfect.
92 Rich Cook Apr 19, 2016

Domaine de Bila-Haut, Cotes du Roussillon Villages (Latour de France) "Occultum Lapidem" 2016 ($27):

Michel Chapoutier, famous for his wines from the Rhone Valley of France, produces Bila-Haut and manages to transfer his brilliance to the Languedoc, where the Cotes du Roussillon are very hospitable to the grape varieties of the Rhone. This red blend offers rich notes of blackberry and black raspberry, with a savory note of pepper and wood spice. Well balanced and fresh despite its 15 percent alcohol, the Occultum Lapidem should be served with rich stews, game dishes, grilled meats or savory cheeses.
91 Robert Whitley Jan 1, 2019

Le Vignes de Bila-Haut, Cotes du Roussillon Villages (France) 2016 ($15):

The beauty of Roussillon is the rare combination of quality with value. This blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan exhibits exceptional fruit purity, intriguing complexity and exquisite balance at a very modest price. What you taste is what the French in the south call garrigue, meaning the there is an earthy minerality that reflects the soils of Roussillon. On the palate the wine is smooth and fruit-inspired, showing red fruits and black fruits, with an excellent balance between fruit and acidity and nary a hint of oak (the wine is aged in vats). The finish is long and inviting, as in inviting another sip. 89 Robert Whitley Jan 2, 2018

Michel Chapoutier, Cotes du Roussillon Villages (France) “Bila-Haut” 2013 ($15, HB Wine Merchants): This wine showed very favorably in a blind tasting of foreign and domestic Rhône inspired blends. Syrah, Grenache and Carignane work well here, with blackberry, blueberry, white pepper, fennel and wet asphalt aromas translate well to flavors, with food friendly acidity and a medium long finish that's well integrated. A definite value leader in this category.
89 Rich Cook Nov 10, 2015

Château de Caladroy, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) “Cuvée Les Schistes” 2010 ($18, Vintage ’59 Imports):

This terrific -- and terrifically consistent -- wine is not only delicious upon release, but also capable of improving with age, as was proved to me recently by a bottle of 2006 that I was lucky enough to find in a convenience store in southern France. The fruit is very flavorful and structured but never hard or over-extracted, and this 2010 rendition shows notes of cassis, black current and dark plum fruit with subtly spicy backnotes. An outstanding value.
92 Michael Franz Feb 18, 2014

Domaine Singla, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) Bressol 2009 ($35, Five Grapes): Bressol is mostly Grenache Noir with a little Carignan, and it’s a nice companion to Castell Vell. The lovely ripe raspberry scents and flavors shine in this wine, backed by a trace of dark chocolate. The textured flavors, ample fruit, fine tannins, 15% alcohol, all lead to a long balanced finish with no heat and plenty of fruit. Bressol appeals to those who like Grenache more than Syrah.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Domaines des Schistes, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (France) “Essencial” 2018 ($18):

Longtime vineyard owners who for decades sent their fruit off to the local coop, the Sire family decided to venture into winemaking in 1990. Based in Estagel, the family’s vineyard is organically farmed and they now make a wide range of wines, including several “vin doux naturel” offerings. This wine is made from equal portions of Grenache and Carignan, and 40% Lledoner Pelut which is an ancient, indigenous Catalan vine. Like many encountered during my first visit to Roussillon a decade ago, this is a veritable wine of place. That obscure grape that plays a major role here is likely a mutation of Grenache but ripens earlier and withstands high winds, which explains its availability in the windy area around Estagel and Tautavel. This wine really demands time to unfold, but it slowly reveals aromas of cola, game, and black olive along with notes of black fruit in the background. Big, round and savory, it delivers tons of flavor with light tannin. Probably wise to open and enjoy over the next year or two.
90 Norm Roby Jun 20, 2023

Michel Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) “Bila-Haut” Rouge 2015 ($15, Sera Wine Imports): It's hard to beat the budget friendly Bila-Haut line -- each bottle seriously over delivers in the value department. This vintage shows high toned blueberry and spice, with complementary tar and pepper aromas and flavors, with a firm grip that extends the finish where the pepper notes come forward. A wild game bird would pair perfectly. A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignane.
90 Rich Cook Nov 29, 2016

Michel Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) “Les Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2012 ($12, HB Wine Merchants):

An exceptional value, this wine tastes of ripe plum and berry fruit enhanced by notes resembling black pepper, dried herbs, and tobacco, with a bouquet that echoes lavender and other wildflowers. Its firm but unobtrusive structure suggests that it should age gracefully for a few years, but it’s so tasty right now that I suspect few people will want to wait.
90 Paul Lukacs Jul 15, 2014

Domaine de l’Edre, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) “Carremont Rouge” 2010 ($20, Hand Picked Selections): This richly textured wine has a deep ruby color, bright blackberry aromatics, good structure, full fruit, refined tannins, 15% alcohol, and good length with no heat. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 29, 2011

Sous la Montagne, Fitou (Roussillon, France) 2017 ($21, Hand Picked Selections):

From the foothills of France’s Pyrénées Mountains comes this utterly satisfying deep red wine. I use the word “deep” to cover many different facets of this blend of Carignan (50%), Syrah (27%) and Grenache (23%), including its purple/red color, its intense flavors and its plush, textured finish. This is a gorgeous wine to pair with just about any meaty dish (it rocks with lamb!) but it will also rise to the occasion with tomato-based pasta preparations or moussaka as well as most other dishes centered on eggplant.
93 Marguerite Thomas May 19, 2020

Michel Chapoutier, Les Vignes de Bila-Haut (Côtes du Rousillon Villages, France) 2014 ($15, HB Wine Merchants): A juicy quaffing wine, full of fresh fruit flavors, with pliant tannins and an appealing finish, this is an easy to enjoy red. It’s not all that complex, but it provides plenty of pleasure. On a hot day, don’t be afraid to serve it slightly chilled.
89 Paul Lukacs Aug 9, 2016

Domaine des Schistes, Maury (Roussillon, France) “La Cherisaie” 2008 ($38, VOS Selections): At 17.5% alcohol, with loads of ripe slightly jammy flavors, this Maury VDN is a lot like a cross between a Late Harvest Zinfandel and a ripe Merlot. Ripe cherries dominate the aromatics and flavors. Sweet and textured with good length and lasting fruit, this is a lovely sipping wine or as dessert. La Cherisaie (cherry orchard) is one of the more unusual wines tasted. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine Cabirau, Maury Sec (Roussillon, France) "Serge & Nicolas" 2016 ($25):

Although the Rhône is getting all the press regarding the 2016 vintage, very similar weather conditions prevailed all the way westward along the Mediterranean. Maury is still a pretty obscure appellation in the USA, but you’ll never forget it if you taste this sensational wine. From vineyards located just north of the Spanish border, and blended from Grenache, Carignan and Syrah, this offers generous flavors of blackberries, licorice, wild herbs, and rocky earth.
93 Michael Franz May 1, 2018

Domaine Cabirau, Maury Sec (Roussillon, France) “Serge & Nicolas” 2016 ($27, Hand Picked Selections):

The Maury region lies in the heart of French Catalonia, and shares many characteristics with its Spanish neighbor. It is a rugged, rocky and romantic place, with steep stony outcroppings looming here and there. Maury Sec is a new French appellation, which appeared in 2011 in a place long known for its deliciously sweet vins doux naturels. If Domaine Cabirau is representative of what this region can produce in the way of dry wines, I say, bring it on! With luscious, dark ripe fruits, a sleek texture and medium-full body, Domaine Cabirau is a beautiful wine indeed. It manages to be both rustic and refined, and powerful as well as pretty -- somewhat like the Maury landscape itself. A blend of 41% Grenache, 23% Carignan and 14% Syrah.
92 Marguerite Thomas Mar 6, 2018

Domaine Piquemal, Muscat de Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) “L’Age de Raison” 1988 ($25, Beaune Imports): Made in the oxidative style from Grenache Gris, this richly textured VDN was aged for 20 years in large oak vats. The nose is raisined and peppery with a touch of rancio. The flavors are rich and textured, 16.5% alcohol, with good length and plenty of ripe fruit notes. Not everyone agrees that fortified wines should stay in wood for 20 years, but this 1988 L’Age de Raison shows no ill effects and remains vibrant and fruity. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Les Vignes de Bila-Haut, Pays d’Oc IGP (Roussillon, France) Rosé 2018 ($15):

Another solid Rosé from this producer, who continues to deliver value for your dollar. Strawberry, lemon zest, a sprinkling of white pepper and a little blueberry refresh from start to finish. Pair with an Alps hot summer day while looking up the mountain at a race-ending hailstorm during the 19th stage of the Tour de France -- that’s what I did. You can select any other auspicious occasion.
90 Rich Cook Aug 13, 2019

Domaine de Bila-Haut, Pays D'Oc (Roussillon, France) Rosé "Les Vignes" 2016 ($15, HB Wine Merchants):

This vintage of this easy to like rosé shows a little more leafy herb character than the 2015, and I like the added complexity that it brings to the strawberry, white pepper and citrus that I've come to expect. It will make a fine salad course accompaniment, or put it out with a mild strength cheese platter.
90 Rich Cook May 9, 2017

Domaine de Bila-Haut, Pays D'Oc IGP (Roussillon, France) Rosé "Les Vignes" 2015 ($15): A budget friendly glass of summertime from Michel Chapoutier. Crisp and dry, with strawberry, white pepper and soft citrus character that will pair well with picnic fare of all kinds.
89 Rich Cook Jul 5, 2016

Michel Chapoutier, Pays d'Oc IGP (Roussillon, France) “Bila-Haut” 2014 ($15, HB Wine Merchants): As a California born and raised boy, one of my earliest memories of wine is the dry rosé that my parents drank from stoneware bottles -- not local wine, but from Spain and the south of France. This bottle takes me back to that time, with its aromas and flavors of strawberry, lemon, white pepper and flowers that translate well on a bone dry palate with lively acidic structure that begs for pairing with salty spicy chicken, fried or roasted. It will also match well with Mexican food that's not overly spicy. More pink like this, please!
88 Rich Cook Jun 30, 2015

Domaine Singla, Muscat de Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) “Heritage du Temps” 2004 ($49, Five Grapes): Made in the Ambre (amber) style, this lightly oxidized VDN smelled and tasted like fruit cake with walnuts. Candied citrus peel and an inviting honied component continued the impression. It finished with 16% alcohol, plenty of candied fruit and no heat. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine des Schistes, Muscat de Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) 2010 ($16, VOS Selections): This Muscat de Rivesaltes was tasted from a solera. It opened with fragrant floral notes that followed through to the sweet, fruity flavors. Finished at 15.5% alcohol, this VDN reminded me of a California Angelica. 375ml. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine Jones, Côtes Catalanes (Roussillon, France) Grenache Gris 2015 ($24, Europvin):

This wine is made from a lesser known Grenache clone, Grenache Gris, which is a pink-skinned cousin of Grenache Blanc that typically displays a slightly more assertive character. Playful in its fruitiness with rich tones of peach, pear, and kumquat, this wine offers a rounded texture and a creamy, yet mineral-driven finish.
91 Jessica Dupuy Jan 8, 2019

Michel Chapoutier, Cotes de Roussillon IGP (France) “Bila-Haut” 1999 ($15, HB Wine Merchants): It's not every day that I get to taste a blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Vermentino and Macabeo, but I'm glad for the day I got to taste this mineral driven beauty. White flowers, melon, citrus and sea spray compliment the wet stone aromas and flavors in this bone dry wine that will play nicely alongside fresh cut vegetables and mild cheeses. Intriguing!
89 Rich Cook Jun 30, 2015

M. Chapotier, Côtes du Roussillon (France) “Les Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2014 ($13, HB Wine Merchants): This white blend offers outstanding value and so is well worth stocking up on for warm weather drinking. Medium-bodied, with plenty of bright citrus flavors as well as intriguing echoes resembling smoked nuts, it is both tasty on its own and a deliciously versatile food partner. It likely won’t age particularly well, but for enjoying in 2016, it’s hard to imagine a better white wine.
90 Paul Lukacs Apr 19, 2016

Les Vignes de L'Aire, Côtes du Roussillon (France) Grenache Blanc “Effet Papillon” 2013 ($13, Jersey Wine Merchants): A wine with consummate rural simplicity, Effet Papillon -- the “Butterfly Effect” -- truly is the vinous equivalent of a graceful and airy butterfly on the wing. The fruit, with its subtle hints of pear and green apple, is refreshing and ephemeral, and the body is light and nimble.
89 Marguerite Thomas Sep 29, 2015

Michel Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Roussillon, France) “Bila-Haut” Blanc 2015 ($15, Sera Wine Imports): Another Chapoutier bargain. Floral and peachy on the nose, with a viscous yet citrusy mid palate and a crisp finish that is all about the peach and lime. It's a nice warm weather sipper, or will pair nicely with your holiday bird.
88 Rich Cook Nov 29, 2016

Bila-Haut, Cotes-du-Roussillon (France) 2016 ($15):

Michel Chapoutier’s value lineup of wines from the Languedoc tells you all you need to know about Michel. Even at the lower price rungs (compared to his coveted but expensive red wines from the northern Rhone) Michel just can’t help himself. He is as committed to quality at $15 as he is at $150. The Cotes-du-Roussillon blanc is an impressive wine for its complexity, simplicity and appealing balance and freshness. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu it shows luscious notes of pear, crisp apple and citrus. It’s clean and refreshing. Utterly delightful.
91 Robert Whitley Dec 12, 2017

Domaine Cazes, Muscat de Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) 2007 ($15, Robert Kacher Selections): The attractive strength of this Muscat de Rivesaltes is the dominant floral and orange-scented aromatics and flavors. The flavors are fresh and fruity with subtle citrus notes, 15% alcohol and good length through the fruity finish. Drink now. 375ml. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

Domaine Cazes, Muscat de Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) “Ambre” 1998 ($18, Robert Kacher): The 1998 Ambre is 100% Grenache Blanc. The color is a brilliant amber and the slightly oxidized aromatics are honied with a waxy note, not unlike a botrytised Sauternes. The sweetness and acidity are nicely balanced and the wine finishes with 16% alcohol and no heat. This is a very nice aged VDN that will continue to develop more complexity and depth. 375ml. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine Piquemal, Muscat de Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) “Les Larmes d’Helios” 2010 ($19, Beaune Imports): This blend of Muscat d’Alexandrie and Muscat Petits Grains has a fragrant floral aroma and honied flavors with citrus and spice accents. It is very sweet, 15.5% alcohol and a tad low in acidity. Made in the early bottling style, rather than the aged amber or tawny styles. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 17, 2012

Domaine de la Coume du Roy, Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) Muscat 2014 ($20, Bradley Alan Imports):

A “vin doux naturel,” this wine is certainly sweet but it is so vivacious and multifaceted that it never seems cloying. It is blessed with a wealth of aromas and flavors including lime, grapefruit and lemon verbena (those grapey flavors you might also detect are somewhat reminiscent of the delicious funkiness of Concord grapes). Serve it with a dessert such as a good fresh fruit tart (apricot or peach would be my choice) or lemon pie. Or instead of a sweet dessert, you might think about pairing the wine with a beautiful cheese such as fine cheddar, or an aged Gouda or Parmegiano, or perhaps a good blue cheese. Serve it chilled, and resist the temptation to squirrel this fine wine away in the cellar -- to preserve its freshness it should be consumed sometime within the next five years (how about tonight?).
93 Marguerite Thomas Jul 11, 2017

Château Croisille, Cahors (Sud Ouest, France) "Prestige" 2009 ($24, Tru Wines): This is a really high price to pay for a Cahors, nearly double what you can get some wines from the region for. That should put in perspective what a value the region can be. And this wine, made from 100% Malbec, is well worth the money. The first impression is all ripe red plum, but it gets darker and more savory through the finish. It is complex and approachable, lively and serious, and just 12.5% alcohol. Lovely wine, as good a Malbec as you'll find anywhere.
95 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Chateau Lagrezette, Cahors (Sud Ouest, France) “Chevalier du Chateau Lagrezette” 2015 ($34, Curious Cork Imports):

Chevalier du Chateau Lagrezette is a bold and beautifully textured wine with concentrated blue and black berry flavors dominating the palate. Small amounts of Tannat contribute further pizzazz to this excellent, Malbec-based wine.
91 Marguerite Thomas Sep 11, 2018

Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors (Sud-Ouest, France) “Lucter” 2018 ($20, Baron François Imports):

The Vigouroux family, owner of Château de Haute-Serre, is legendary in Cahors. If not the best producer in that region, they certainly rank with the top ones. Though best known as an Argentinian grape, Malbec’s origin and traditional home is the Cahors appellation. The popularity of the grape has so overshadowed the relatively unknown appellation in recent years that Vigouroux actually puts Malbec de Cahors on the front label, while relegating AOP Cahors to the back. Lucter, the name of this cuvée, is homage to the last Gallic of the region to fight against Roman occupation two millennia ago. The wine shows the beauty of Malbec when grown in the right place by and turned into wine by the right people. It has the power expected of Malbec, but with uncommon suaveness and complexity. This is not a monotonic big red wine, as so many Malbecs tend to be, but rather a Malbec with minerality and subtlety. You don’t often see subtlety and Malbec in the same sentence, but this one has them both.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2022

Chateau Haut-Monplaisir, Cahors (Sud Ouest, France) 2006 ($17, Vintage '59 Imports):

This is the third of three bottlings of Cahors from this exemplary

producer that I’ve tasted during the past month, and all three are terrific (the others are “Pur Plaisir” 2005, $52, 93 points, and “Prestige” 2005, $23, 90 points). Circumstances prevented me from tasting this straight AOC bottling along with the other two, but having tried it now, I wonder if I wasn’t too stingy by a point or two when scoring the others. It is medium-plus in body, but very expressive and intense in aroma and flavor, with marvelous notes of blackberries, blackcurrants, anise seed, espresso beans, dried herbs and cedar, with some pleasant mineral notes also showing up in the finish. The tannins are abundant and grippy, but well balanced in relation to the fruit provided that you buffer them with foods containing a bit of dietary fat. An excellent wine and a very attractive value.

Château Lamartine, Cahors (Sud Ouest, France) “Cuvée Particulière” 2005 ($25, T. Edward Wines):

Malbec from southwestern France can sometimes be rough and tannic, but this Cuvée Pariculière shows surprising suppleness. This may be due, at least in part, to the addition of a small amount of Merlot to the blend, which serves as a sort of tranquilizer to calm Malbec’s inherent tendency towards over-exuberance. But not to worry--the wine is plenty powerful, with lots of red and black fruits backed by hints of violets and spice, and a subtle whiff of menthol.

Château Lamartine, Cahors (Sud Ouest, France) "Cuvée Particulière" 2005 ($20, T. Edward Wines):

Malbec from southwestern France can sometimes be rough and tannic, but this Cuvée Pariculière shows surprising suppleness. This may be due, at least in part, to the addition of a small amount of Merlot in the blend, which serves as a sort of tranquilizer to calm Malbec’s inherent tendencies towards over-exuberance. It remains a powerful wine, with plenty of red and black fruits backed by nuances of violets and spice, and a subtle jolt of menthol.

Crocus, Cahors (Sud Ouest, France) Malbec “L’Atelier” 2020 ($28, Paul Hobbs Selections):

Crocus focuses on making true-to-terroir wines including this textbook Malbec from Cahors. This Malbec provides a rich dark color with lots of dark fresh fruit, mushroom, potting soil, spice and mineral notes. The firm tannins and dry style highlight the earthy terroir-driven French winemaking style. While Argentina has popularized Malbec, Cahors wines are equally as good and can show the breadth of the grape's potential. This is a bottle worth your time.
90 Vince Simmon May 23, 2023

Domaine du Théron, Cahors (Sud Ouest, France) Malbec "Prestige" 2011 ($18, HB Wine Merchants): Malbec fans -- this is not your Argentina styled wine, or even California for that matter. Everything about it says France, from the funky nose that you'll want to mitigate with a long decant, to its perfumed fruit and spice aromas, structured acidity and long, complex finish. So, I'd say Parilla, no, wild game, oui!
90 Rich Cook Oct 25, 2016

Chateau Lagrezette, Cahors (Sud Ouest, France) Malbec “Cru d’Exception” 2003 ($30, Frederick Wildman):

Reflecting the vintage’s notorious heat, this 2003 Cahors tastes ripe

and jammy. If it lacks some subtlety, it makes up for that loss with exuberance, and at six years old feels seductively supple on the palate. Medium-bodied, it exemplifies a new style of Cahors wine, one that as the label indicates emphasizes fruity varietal flavor rather than earthy regionality. The only problem is that a comparably-styled Malbec-based wine from Argentina likely will cost about half as much.

Cuvee Joelle, Comte Tolosan IGP (France) Rouge 2017 ($18):

This vast appellation that is a catch-all for the wines of southwest France that don't fit into smaller, more established appellations. Cuvee Joelle is a common red blend for the area, with 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Malbec. This delightful red is fruity and supple, showing bright red fruits and smooth tannins. Meant for easy drinking in the near term. A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.
91 Robert Whitley May 29, 2018

Gérard Bertrand, Corbières (Sud-Ouest, France) Grenache/ Syrah/ Mourvèdre 2011 ($18, USA Wine West):

Not especially complex but fairly bursting with ripe red and black fruit flavors, this wine seems made for spring and early summer drinking. Medium-bodied, it should complement grilled foods especially well.
89 Paul Lukacs Mar 31, 2015

Domaine d’Uby, Cotes de Gascogne (Gascony, France) Colombard - Ugni Blanc "UBY" 2010 ($8, Baron Francois): UBY is a blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc (a.k.a. Trebbiano), two local regional grapes that never made it big as wine grapes in California. Cool fermented then matured on the lees for a short time, it has a light golden color, ripe nectarine aroma, dry stone fruit and citrus rind flavors, 11.5% alcohol and a light tart finish.
85 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 3, 2012

Chateau Bellevue La Foret, Fronton (Southwestern France) 2006 ($11, Wine Traditions Ltd.): Fronton is close to Toulouse, between the Garonne and Tarn rivers. This is an interesting blend of Negrette, an ancient variety that traces its roots back to the Crusades, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Gamay. Aged in large oak cooperage for six months, it has a very deep purple-ruby color, dark berry and earthy aromatics, dry medium fruit flavors, firm tannins, 13% alcohol, but it is a little short in the finish. 87 Gerald D. Boyd May 3, 2011

Domaine Rotier, Gaillac (Sud Ouest, France) “Les Gravels Rouge” 2009 ($15, Tru Wines):

A modern wine, picked ripe and micro-oxygenated, that's fairly rich but keeps a modicum of Old World character. Spicy on the nose, it brings in dark cherry fruit with good acid. 14% alcohol. A bridge wine to pour for people who drink a lot of California wine. A blend of Braucol, Duras and Syrah.
90 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Domaine de Labarthe, Gaillac (Sud Ouest, France) 2010 ($15, Vigneron Imports): The Labarthe estate has belonged to the Albert family since the 16th century, and is still made by a father and son team. This is a light, lively, spicy wine, a blend of Fer-Servadou, Duras and Syrah, with cherry fruit and an earthy note on the finish. It did fade behind the food when I tried it, and might need to be consumed with something delicate. 13% alcohol. 88 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Domaine du Moulin, Gaillac (France) "Cuvée Reserve Rouge" 2007 ($11, Michael Skurnik Wines): Gaillac in southwest France is the source of this earthy red wine made from Duras and Syrah. It has a very deep ruby color, low intensity dark fruits like plums with earthy back notes, tart entry, light-medium flavors, full tannins, 12.5% alcohol and a medium finish. This wine needs hearty foods like grilled red meats. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 22, 2011

Chateau Lastours, Gaillac (Southwestern France) 2006 ($12, Baron Francois Ltd.): This blend of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Braucol, the local name in Gaillac, southwestern France for Fer Servadou, was aged in oak for 12 months. It has a medium ruby color, slightly roasted warm-climate nose with herbaceous notes and low intensity dark fruits, while the flavors are a bit thin supported by medium-full tannins and 12.5% alcohol. The price is right but this wine should be consumed now. 86 Gerald D. Boyd May 3, 2011

1907, Madiran (Southwest France) 2007 ($14, Fruit of the Vines): The wine is a blend of several different grapes, notably Tannat, the flagship grape of Soutwestern France (and also Uruguay). As is fairly common in Madiran, Cabernet Sauvignon makes its presence felt too in the blend. While Tannat is known for its intense tannic structure, 1907 does not overwhelm the palate with tannins, and is in fact fairly supple. It has a dark, inky purplish hue, raspberry aromas, a robust body and spicy, peppery flavors laced with blackberries.
89 Marguerite Thomas Oct 18, 2011

Château de Viella, Madiran (Sud Ouest, France) "Tradition" 2010 ($14, Sussex Wine Merchants): The 40% Cabernet Franc is strong in this blend with 60% Tannat, imparting a brambly, light raspberry flavor with plenty of fruit and a lighter body than you'd expect, although you can't miss the Tannat's tannins on the finish. 13.5% alcohol.
89 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Maestria, Madiran (Sud Ouest, France) 2011 ($11, AW Direct): There is always a market in the US for big-bodied, intense red wines at bargain prices. First it was Aussie Shiraz, then when we tired of that, it became Argentine Malbec. When that fad fades, Madirans like this wine await our attention. Made by the Plaimont co-op from Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this is a bruiser with plenty of dark cherry fruit and tannins, yet stays fresh as you'd hope a French wine should. Good wine for tailgating on a cold day. 14% alcohol.
89 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Clos Basté, Madiran (Sud Ouest, France) “Esprit Basté” 2009 ($16, Wines of France): Previously the oenologist for the well-known Madiran winery Château d'Aydie, Philippe Sur bought a run-down estate in 1998 and has been slowly updating it. He is working on organic certification and has it for a couple of parcels. This wine, 70% Tannat and 30% Cabernet Franc, initially seems like it's going to be enormous -- it's dark, the "legs" in the glass are huge, and the flavors are of ripe Concord grape. But it turns out to be lighter on its feet than you expect, with a subtle finish. 13.5% alcohol.
87 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Chateau Peyros, Madiran (Southwestern France) 2004 ($20, Baron Francois Ltd.): This concentrated bottled-aged Madiran is 100% Tannat, matured in French oak for 24 months. The lengthy 30-day maceration resulted in a very deep inky black-ruby color, oaky nose with hints of roasted nuts and very ripe dark fruits. Concentrated, with ample fruit and big tannins, it also has a touch of brettanomyces. The finish is dry, 13.5% alcohol and showing ample fruit. Madiran is a style of rustic red wine that appeals to wine drinkers fond of big, extracted wines. 85 Gerald D. Boyd May 3, 2011

Domaine du Cros, Marcillac (France) Rouge 2009 ($12, Wine Traditions Ltd.): Marcillac is a small district in southwest Gaillac, roughly between Armagnac and Bordeaux. Made from a local variety called Fer Servadou, this Marcillac has a very deep purple-ruby color, slightly closed rustic nose of dark plums and black pepper, low intensity fruit, crisp acidity, moderate tannins, 12.5% alcohol and a sour cherry finish. 87 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 22, 2011

Domaine Laurens, Marcillac AOC (Sud-Ouest, France) "Pierres Rouges" 2017 ($18, Regal Wine Company):

The Laurens family have almost 52 acres of vines in the mountains of the Massif Central in Southwest France where they make wine from Fer Servadou. While this grape variety is new to me, the wine is encouraging me to learn more. It displays a deep dark ruby color and aromas of black cherry, berry, plum fruit with smoky caramel notes. In the mouth, black fruit is tightly knit and invigorated with lively acidity, finishing with grainy tannins. Serve it with a grilled steak. According to Wine Grapes by Robinson et al, “fer” means wild, and the local lore is that the wild vines in the region were domesticated. The wine region is Marcillac in southwest France. The appellation allows red and rose wines with a minimum 90 percent Fer. The vines are grown on steep hillsides at 1,100 to 1,600 feet. Pierres Rouges on the label means red stones, a reference to the iron-rich limestone clays.
90 Rebecca Murphy Nov 9, 2021

Cameron Hughes Wine, Minervois (Sud Ouest, France) “Lot 842” 2019 ($14, Vintage Wine Estates):

Blended from 60% Syrah, and 40% Grenache, this offers up a convincing combination of gutsy fruit with savory and even pleasantly earthy undertones that play together extremely well. Medium-bodied, with mostly red fruit notes but also some black fruit tinges, it features soft texture but with enough tannin to work at the table and more than enough character to succeed with stews and braised meats like lamb shanks make optimal use of the faintly rustic aspects of this type of wine.
93 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2023

Hecht & Bannier, Minervois (Sud Ouest, France) 2006 ($20, Frederick Wildman): The wine packs power and intensity without being heavy or jammy. A foundation of summery red fruit is supported by a flavor grid that includes spice, licorice, dried herbs and mint. The texture is silky, with a slick of tannins on the finish. 90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 16, 2010

Château de Paraza, Minervois (Sud Ouest, France) "Cuvée Spéciale" 2007 ($12, Russell Herman World Wines Source): This typical Mediterranean blend--Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%) and Mourvèdre--delivers a pleasant combination of spice and black cherry fruit-like flavors. There’s unusual suaveness in this mid-weight wine. Mild tannins and a lively juiciness makes it an excellent choice for immediate consumption. An excellent buy. 89 Michael Apstein Jun 1, 2010

Domaine du Tariquet, Côtes de Gascogne (France) “Rosé de Presseé” 2011 ($11, Robert Kacher Selections): Like most of the best rosés, Tariquet’s is not just for summer sipping. The

price ($11) may give you the impression that this is lighthearted if pleasurable plonk, but in truth it’s a serious wine with penetrating aromas plus rich, full complexity and texture on the palate. It is admirably dry with the beguiling back notes of fruitiness that textbook rosé offers. Enjoy it during what remains of the warm weather but be sure to stock up on it for the cooler months ahead too. 90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 11, 2012

Chateau Bellevue La Foret, Fonton (France) Rosé 2010 ($10, Wine Traditions Ltd.):

This very tasty rosé is a blend of Negrette, Gamay and Syrah from the southern Fronton vineyards, close to Toulouse. It has a vibrant neon pink color, fresh strawberry aromas with an earthy note, forward strawberry flavors, good supporting acidity and tannins, 13.5% alcohol and a long dry fruity finish. At a very appealing price, this is just the wine for casual meals. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Nov 22, 2011

Chateau Bellevue la Forêt, Fronton (Sud Ouest, France) Rosé 2010 ($10, Wine Traditions): This is a cheerful little rosé, bright pinkish-tangerine in color, slightly sweet but with forceful enough acidity to finish on a refreshing note. The principal grape in the blend is the local Négrette, which flavors the wine with a subtly mysterious character that engages the senses and piques one’s curiosity enough to require refilling the glass. 88 Marguerite Thomas Jul 24, 2012

Domaine J. Laurens, Cremant de Limoux (Sud Ouest, France) Brut NV ($13, Vigneron Imports): Wow, what a value. If I tasted this blind, I would have guessed Anderson Valley because of the brightness of the green apple and lemon fruit, and the nice clean finish. In fact, it's from France's Limoux region, which claims to have been making bubbly as long as Champagne. You can enjoy it with any of the traditional bubbly pairings. I actually had a bottle with a pepperoni pizza and it was outstanding. 90 W. Blake Gray Dec 29, 2009

Antech Cuvee Eugenie, Cremant de Limoux (Sud Ouest, France) Brut 2007 ($14, Premier Wine Company): A blend of 50% Chardonnay with 40% Chenin Blanc and 10% Mauzac. The village of Limoux claims to have been making bubbly longer than Champagne, but without the contemporary commercial success; perhaps the mix of grapes prevents it from reaching greatness. This wine is a little beery initially, with additional aromas of yeast, balsamic vinegar, lemonade and library paste. It finishes lighter and citrusy, making it a good palate cleanser. Consider decanting it, because it was better the second day than the first. 87 W. Blake Gray Dec 29, 2009

Domaine du Tariquet, Côte de Gascogne (Gascony, France) Chenin - Chardonnay 2010 ($9, Robert Kacher Selections): Domaine des Salices, another François Lurton estate, makes a lovely array of wines from the Languedoc region in the southwest of France. Taking advantage of the looser regulations of the Vin de Pays designation (as opposed to the stricter appellation controllée rules), they sell the wines using varietal names. This Viognier captures all of the engaging subtle honeysuckle aspects of the grape without being heavy and alcoholic. Not overdone, this lively wine is a good choice for celebrating the Year of the Dragon. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2012

Domaine Chiroulet, Cotes de Gascogne (Southwest France) 'Terres Blanches' 2013 ($12, Charles Neal Selections):

While most whites from southwest France tend to be simple, fresh and clean, there are the handful that have a higher calling. Domaine Chiroulet shoots for a suave complexity with its Terres Blanches, using a higher percentage of Sauvignon Blanc (40 percent) than is typical, and lees stirring provides additional complexity and body. The remainder of the blend are the traditional grapes Gros Manseng and Ugni Blanc, but this wine seems to be all about the Sauvignon. It exhibits hints of melon and citrus, with an interesting back note of brioche though it spends no time in barrel. It's well balanced, with crisp acidity and inviting minerality. A gem at the price. 90 Robert Whitley Feb 3, 2015

Domaine de Menard, Cotes de Gascogne (Southwest France) 'Cuvee Marine' 2013 ($10, Paul M. Young Fine Wines): Blended from the indigenous white grapes of the Cotes de Gascogne -- Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Gros Manseng -- Menard's Cuvee Marine is a typical wine of the region, delivering notes of mown hay and fresh lime on the nose. On the palate it offers bracing acidity, perfect for freshly shucked oysters or other raw shellfish. Simple but tasty. 88 Robert Whitley Feb 3, 2015

Cantharos, Cotes de Gascogne IGP (France) 2015 ($14):

Southwest France is probably best known for its rustic red wines and sweet whites that are served with the region's most famous cuisine, foie gras. The dry whites are less well known and that's a shame because there is an abundance of quality at stunningly low prices. This Cotes de Gascogne from Cantharos offers a nose of stone fruits and baked brioche on the nose with a tart citrus palate. Utterly delicious and food friendly. A platinum award-winner at the 2017 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
92 Robert Whitley Jan 31, 2017

Domaine du Tariquet, Cotres de Gascogne (Southwest France) 'Classic' 2013 ($12, Robert Kacher Selections):

The beauty of the white wines of southwest France is their freshness and easy drinkability. Domaine du Tariquet's 'Classic' is a blend of Ugni-Blanc, Colombard, Sauvignon and Gros Manseng. Ugni-Blanc and Colombard, of course, are often used in the production of spirits and not so much for table wines. The Sauvignon and Gros Manseng give the nose a bit of lift, and on the palate notes of lime citrus and green apple dominate. It is crisp and clean and just what the doctor ordered on a warm summer day. 88 Robert Whitley Feb 3, 2015

Chateau de Jau, France (France) Sauvignon Blanc “Le Jaja de Jau" 2009 ($9, Pasternak Wine Imports): Perhaps you can’t judge a book by its cover, but sometimes a wine label does offer a reliable hint of what’s inside the bottle. A case in point is this one, adorned with nothing more than simple black script spelling out “Le Jaja de Jau, Sauvignon Blanc,” plus the signature “Ben.” Ben Vautier is an artist affiliated with an international art movement known as Fluxus, whose works are described as unpretentious, simple, fluid, and playful. These are adjectives that may be applied to Jaja de Jau as well. It’s a made wine, energetic, effusive, light-hearted, and not meant to be scrutinized too seriously. 88 Marguerite Thomas Aug 31, 2010

Domaine Labranche Laffont - Christine Dupuy, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec AOC (Sud-Ouest, France) 2017 ($23, Vintage ’59 Imports):

One of the most interesting aspect of learning about wine is that you can spend your life learning and working with wine and there is always something new to learn. The Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh (pronounced, "pashran du veek beek") appellation in Southwest France is a great example. It is a white wine region best known for sweet wines form Gros Mansang and Petite Mansang grapes. This one is dry, which is indicated with Sec, which means dry, added to the appellation name. The rich golden color might lead you to think you have a sweet wine in your glass, but it is bone dry. The ripe apricot and Meyer lemon aromas preview a surprisingly assertive citusy acidity that introduces the ripe apricot citrus fruit in the mouth. Serve it with a ripe triple cream cheese or a creamy pasta. Together they will shine.
89 Rebecca Murphy Nov 9, 2021

Domaine Berthoumien, Pacherene du Vic Bilh (Southwestern France) 2008 ($12, Mid State Distributors): Pacherene du Vic Bilh is the tongue-tying Gascon name for a white wine made in the Madiran region from a combination of local grapes like Petit Mensang, Gros Mensang, blended with a little imported Sauvignon Blanc. The wine has a medium gold color, forward ginger and herbal aromatics, crisp tangy flavors with ginger, mineral and ripe stone fruit notes, 13% alcohol and a pleasant dry finish. 88 Gerald D. Boyd May 3, 2011

Les Vignes Retrouvées, Saint Mont Blanc (Sud Ouest, France) 2012 ($11, AW Direct):

The large co-op Plaimont Producteurs has two winemakers who make different wines from the same grapes -- Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu and Arrufiac -- at the same price. As far as I can tell from the production notes, there's almost no difference, except that the other wine (Les Bastions) spends four months on the lees in stainless steel. Yet this is the more elegant, rounder wine. It also has pineapple fruit with a bit of grassiness, and is also a nice substitute for Sauvignon Blanc. I'm not sure why they make two, but at this price it does give you the opportunity to buy both and compare. 90 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Les Bastions, Saint Mont Blanc (Sud Ouest, France) 2011 ($11, AW Direct): A very crisp, tropical white wine made from three varieties rarely seen outside this region: Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu and Arrufiac. A nice substitute for Marlbrough Sauvignon Blanc with a longer pedigree and a lower price. The same co-op, Plaimont Producteurs, makes a more elegant, rounded version called Les Vignes Retrouvées for the same price.
89 W. Blake Gray Nov 12, 2013

Domaine du Tariquet, Vin de Pays Côtes de Gascogne (France) Ugni Blanc/ Colombard “Classic” 2008 ($10, Robert Kacher Selections): Very dry and crisp, almost austere on the palate, this wine seems to beg for the briny taste of fresh shellfish to show its best. Its clean, fresh character constitutes its charm. 86 Paul Lukacs Sep 22, 2009