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January 31, 2012 Issue
Bordeaux:
Red:
Château D’Issan, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($59): The 2008 vintage in Bordeaux is destined to always be overshadowed by the much praised—and more expensive—2009 vintage, which means there are some excellent, well-priced wines, like this one, to be found among the 2008s. Showing its Margaux origins, the 2008 D’Issan is plush and velvety with polished tannins wrapped around a deep mineraly core. Not a bombastic wine, it still has plenty of concentration and power. Yet, its elegance, balance and length are what’s captivating. Appropriately youthful and tightly wound at this stage, it’s best left in the cellar for a decade. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012
Blason D’Issan, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2008 ($37): Can’t wait a decade to drink the 2008 Château D’Issan (also reviewed this week)? Try D’Issan’s second wine, Blason D’Issan. Emmanuel Cruse, whose family owns Château D’Issan, says that the difference between their Grand Vin (Château D’Issan) and Blason is chiefly the age of the vines. For Blason, the vines average 18 years of age and roughly twice that for the first wine. The two are vinified the same way, with the Grand Vin receiving a touch more aging in oak barrels than Blason. In the past, second wines have been relegated to supermarkets of France, but now to export them, they must focus on higher quality. And it shows. While the Blason lacks the complexity of its big brother, it still delivers the plushness and mineraly character of Margaux. The plus side is that the 2008 Blason is more approachable now and would be a good choice with a steak tonight. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012
White:
Château Coutet, Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2009 ($75):  The wines from Barsac and Sauternes are undervalued compared to red Bordeaux because drinking these sweet wines at the end of a meal with, or better yet, as dessert, is falling out of fashion. It’s a pity because a glass by itself or with a morsel of cheese is a perfect way to finish a meal. At a recent tasting sponsored by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, an association of 132 top-notch producers throughout the region, Château Coutet’s 2009 stood out, not only among the sweet wines, but among all the wines, even the big name Bordeaux reds. Not surprisingly, the 2009 Château Coutet was gloriously rich with undertones of apricots and spice, but its vivacity and energy is what set it apart. Long and luxurious, its bracing acidity and verve keeps you coming back for another sip because your palate never tires. Recorked and stored in the frig, the 2009 Coutet will stay fresh and thrilling for a week, so don’t be afraid to pour yourself just a glass.
97 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012
Burgundy:
White:
Maison Louis Latour, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2008 ($33, Louis Latour, USA):  Latour consistently makes great white Burgundies and, to their credit, prices them reasonably. Village wines, as opposed to Premier or Grand Cru wines, are often overlooked. Don’t make that mistake with Latour’s 2008 Meursault. From its clearly identifiable Meursault character and depth, I wouldn’t be surprised if there was some declassified premier cru in this bottling. It conveys richness and a subtle smokiness balanced by vibrancy and energy. It’s a delight to drink now. I’ve not seen a Meursault this good at this price in a long time. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012
Puglia:
White:
Tormaresca, Puglia IGT (Puglia, Italy) Chardonnay 2010 ($11, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): The region of Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot, like the rest of southern Italy, has become a source for good quality, well-priced everyday kind of wines. When leading Italian producers, such as Antinori in this case, move in and invest in the region, everyone should take notice. This delightful blend of Chardonnay (90%) and Fiano has an uplifting floral component, good weight without heaviness and refreshing acidity. And, a bargain price. Time to stock up.
87 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012
California:
Red:
McManis, California (United States) Pinot Noir 2010 ($12): This unusual blend of Pinot Noir and Petit Verdot, aged in French oak for six month, has very good Pinot Noir character. The color is a medium ruby, the aromatics show slightly candied cherry-berry and black tea notes. It’s fruity, pleasant, 13.5% alcohol, with smooth texture and good length through the medium finish. This is a very drinkable Pinot Noir at an attractive price.
88 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
McManis, California (United States) Zinfandel 2010 ($12): Stylistically, California Zinfandel is all over the map, although there is one characteristic constant, a jammy-spicy Zinness . The 2010 McManis Zinfandel, aged for five months in French and American oak has a medium-deep ruby color, low intensity jammy nose with subtle spicy back notes. There’s good acidity to support the sweet-fruit flavors, 13.5% alcohol and nice length through the finish. This Zin is a good match with grilled meats and the price is right.
87 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
McManis, California (United States) Petite Sirah 2010 ($12): In recent years, a lot has been accomplished in the vineyard and the winery with Petite Sirah, making the wine more accessible and less rustic. This young “Pet,” aged for four months in French and American oak, has a deep ruby color, forward fruity aroma with smoky-earthy notes, big tannins supporting ripe dark fruit flavors, 14.5% alcohol and a medium dry finish with a little heat. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
Cline, Contra Costa County (California) Mourvedre “Ancient Vines” 2010 ($16): The same Contra Costa County Vineyards that produced their Carignane are the grape source of this lovely Mourvedre. Following a tank fermentation, the wine was aged for six months in American oak. The color is a brilliant deep ruby and the nose shows traces of ripe raspberry and sweet spices that follow into the nicely balanced flavors, with firm refined tannins, layers of American oak, 14.5% alcohol, good acidity and a long structured finish. Try this flavor-packed Mourvedre with lamb and beef dishes, or full-flavored hard cheeses. Note: Cline chose an environment-unfriendly deeply punted 51-ounce bottle for this wine.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
Cline, Contra Costa County (California) Carignane “Ancient Vines” 2010 ($16): Many of the Carignane vines in Cline’s Contra Costa vineyards are over 100 years old. For this wine, separate lots of old-vine Carignane were fermented and aged for seven months, then blended together and bottled. This 2010 Carignane has a very deep black-ruby color, closed low intensity aromatics showing dark fruits, spice and roasted coffee. The medium berry and anise flavors, with 15% alcohol, are supported by big tannins and the wine finishes a little hard. It’s a big extracted red wine that demands equally big red-meat-centered food. Note: For this Carignane, Cline opted for a deeply punted heavy 51-ounce bottle, a statement by the winery more about marketing and image than its carbon footprint. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
Cline, Los Carneros (California) Syrah Cline Estate 2008 ($20): Cline Cellars is known for specializing in Rhône-style wines, including a string of Syrahs. This 2008 is from their hillside estate vineyard in Sonoma Carneros. It was tank fermented with thrice-daily pump-overs for maximum fruit and color extraction, then aged for 12 months in French oak. The deep ruby color has a black core and the aromatics offer hints of ripe plums and berries with anise and a subtle road tar back note. It has full berry-rich flavors, with lots of refined tannin and oak, 15% alcohol and a long finish with no heat. Sumptuous and rich, this is a Syrah for aging. Note: This Cline Syrah is in an environment-unfriendly heavy 48-ounce bottle filled with wine (the standard is 45 ounces). 92 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2008 ($54): One of the things I love about Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noirs is that they are all different, reflecting where the grapes grew. Toby and Phil Flax planted this vineyard in 2002 and Edwards has been making a single vineyard Pinot Noir from their grapes since 2005. It’s a darker, more brooding—less floral—Pinot Noir rich with black fruit and mineral elements. Earthy notes mingle beautifully with the dark black cherry-like nuances. It’s still tightly wound, but its grandeur is apparent in its persistence and precise finish. It’s a powerful argument that young vines can, indeed, produce terrific wines. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2009 ($54): Merry Edwards, owner/winemaker of her eponymous winery is a  recognized specialist in Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Edwards has a string of single-vineyard Pinots, all of which demonstrate the qualities that make the Russian River Valley one of California’s best sites for Pinot Noir. Of course, there are subtle differences in her Pinot Noirs such as in this latest addition to the string: 2009 Georganne Pinot Noir. Aged for 10 months in French oak, Georganne has a brilliant deep ruby color, deep black cherry and subtle spice nose, bright flavors, layers of fruit, good acidity, hints of black tea, 14.4% alcohol and a firm finish. Note: Edwards has incorporated a number of “green” practices at her winery, but her choice of bottles is not one of them. All three of her 2009 Pinot Noirs are in deeply-punted, heavy, 56-ounce bottles. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2009 ($60): Olivet Lane is a renowned vineyard in the Russian River Valley and Edwards believes this 2009 Pinot Noir is a “wonderful example” of a great vintage for Pinot Noir from Olivet Lane. Aged for 10 months in French oak, 73% new, it has a medium-deep ruby color, warm toasted oak nose layered with black cherry and spice, rich, full fruity flavors, smooth silky texture, hints of mocha and black tea, 13.9% alcohol and a long complex finish. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard 2009 ($60): Coopersmith produces dense Pinots with a lot of expression. Aged for nine months in Francois Freres French oak barrels, the wine has a bright deep ruby color, slightly closed sweet spice and ripe berry nose with traces of toasted oak and smoked bacon. The flavors are bright, concentrated, with hints of cherry-berry, anise and an earthy note. It finishes with 14.4% alcohol and good texture, fruit and length.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
Monticello Vineyards, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Tietjen Vineyard 2008 ($65): The small, 7-acre, Tietjen Vineyard lies on the western side of Napa Valley at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains. Planted in the 1980s, it is devoted exclusively to Cabernet Sauvignon. Monticello uses most of the grapes from this vineyard as part of the blend for their Corley Reserve and their other Cabernets, but fortunately, they bottle a small amount separately. The 2008 is a stunning wine. Powerful, yet suave, it’s richly textured with supple tannins and layered with dark fruit notes and earthy nuances. It reveals itself slowly over time, but even the first sip is captivating. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012
Cline, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Syrah “Cool Climate” 2009 ($16):  The strongest case for the cool climate of the Russian River Valley and Green Valley is the Petaluma Gap, a natural conduit for drawing the ocean fog inland. The grapes for this cool climate Syrah come from the Lazy C Ranch east of the city of Petaluma. It is tank fermented then aged for 10 months in French oak. A lovely deep ruby color opens to fragrant spice and ripe berry scents, with crisp acidity, medium-full dark fruits, firm refined tannins, 13.5% alcohol and good length with no heat. Note: For this Syrah, Cline opted for a more sensible bottle, weighing in full of wine at 48 ounces.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
Cline, Sonoma County (California) Syrah 2009 ($12): Cline’s entry-level Syrah is made mainly from vineyards on the Sonoma Coast with a small amount from Contra Costa County. The wine is aged for 10 months in French oak, yielding a deep ruby color, low intensity berry aroma with smoked bacon and toasted oak. The forward flavors are rich and fruity, supported by good tannins, bracing acidity, 13% alcohol and a medium finish. A good Syrah at a great price! 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
White:
McManis, California (United States) Viognier 2010 ($12): The majority of the fruit for this wine came from the McManis Estate in Ripon in the central part of California. Tank fermented to retain freshness, this Viognier has a light golden color, low intensity peachy aromatics with an earthy backnote, off-dry medium flavors, 13.5% alcohol and a medium finish. This Viognier may lack varietal character, but it is a good-value sipping wine. 85 Gerald D. Boyd Jan 31, 2012
Clayhouse Estate, Paso Robles (California) Cuvée Blanc 2010 ($23): A blend of equal parts Grenache Blanc and Viognier, Clayhouse’s Estate Cuvée has an appealing floral character that expands the richness and subtle peach-like flavor of Grenache Blanc. Clayhouse has captured the ripeness and density of these white Rhône varieties without sacrificing invigorating acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012
Clayhouse Estate, Paso Robles (California) Grenache Blanc 2010 ($23): It’s tough to find exciting white wines from traditional Rhône Valley grapes, such as Grenache Blanc, because often energetic acidity is lacking. Clayhouse Estate has overcome the problems as shown by both this wine and their Estate Cuvée Blanc (also reviewed this week). Clayhouse’s Grenache Blanc has plenty of concentration, subtle stone fruit touches, and vivacity. It’s a weighty wine, without a trace of heaviness.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012
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