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August 31, 2010 Issue
South Australia:
Red:
Strong Arms, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2008 ($12, The Grateful Palate):  A juicy Shiraz, with peppery undertones and good balance, with nothing out of place, this tastes harmonious on the palate. Many examples of Aussie Shiraz taste excessively grapey, even jammy, but this one merits kudos for maintaining focus -- and for offering fine value. 89 Paul Lukacs Aug 31, 2010
Penfolds, South Australia (South Australia) Shiraz Mourvedre 'Bin 2' 2008 ($15, FWE Imports): In the Bin 2 Shiraz Mourvedre Penfolds does what Australia does best, delivering a high-impact wine for a low-impact price. The concentration of black fruits is impressive, and the power and length, too. The fruit is supported by a generous percentage of new oak, and the result is a mouth-filling red that will stand up to sturdy cuisine from the grill. Hints of spice and mint provide notes of intrigue in an otherwise straightforward fruit bomb from Oz. 88 Robert Whitley Aug 31, 2010
White:
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Chardonnay “Koonunga Hill" 2009 ($12, FWE Imports): An always-reliable choice in value-priced Chardonnay, the 2009 Koonunga Hill from Penfolds tastes of lemon curd and pineapple, with just a hint of vanilla and spice in the finish. Unlike many Chardonnays in this price range, there’s plenty of acidity to make the wine refreshing to sip. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 31, 2010
White:
Weingut Willi Bründlmayer, Kamptal (Austria) Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben 2008 ($50, Skurnik): Heiligenstein, located in the village of Zöbinger, is one of Austria’s most acclaimed vineyards. Bründlmayer is one Austria’s best producers. Combine the two and throw in old vines (Alte Reben) and it’s no surprise about the extraordinary quality and distinctiveness of this wine. Lovely delicate aromatics are followed by a slightly earthy quality. A whiff of stone fruit amplifies its inherent minerality. Citrus notes extend the finish and keep it focused. It has a magical quality of intensity and persistence without heaviness. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
Niagara Peninsula:
White:
Cave Spring Cellars, Niagara Peninsula (Ontario, Canada) Riesling 2008 ($12, Boutique Vineyards): The moderating influences of Lake Ontario and the Niagara Escarpment allow vinifera grapes to survive the otherwise frigid and snowy winter. Riesling is especially well suited to the relatively cool climate of the Niagara Peninsula where the harvest in 2008 for this wine extended until November 18th. Cave Spring Cellars’ offering is tight and sleek. A touch of peach-like notes harmonizes nicely with bright citrus notes and vibrant, but not screaming, acidity. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
Alsace:
Sparkling:
Lucien Albrecht, Cremant d'Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV ($18, Pasternak Wine Imports): Crémant d’Alsace, which is made by the traditional (Champagne) method from any of the Alsace grapes except Gewurztraminer and Chasselas, is an under-appreciated category of sparkling wine. As a category they are lighter and less complex than Champagne, but when talented producers, such as Albrecht, make them, they deliver considerable pleasure. In this brightly pink colored Pinot Noir based bubbly captivating hints of strawberry-like fruit burst forth. A creamy mousse adds an unexpected roundness--it’s still nicely crisp--and explains why it’s a perfect aperitif. But it has plenty of stuffing to stand up to food so don’t be shy about bringing it to the table. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
Bordeaux:
White:
Chateau de Parenchére, Bordeaux (France) 2009 ($10): For most of us looking at a wine label, the juxtaposition of the two words “Chateau” and “Bordeaux” may set off a mental alarm bell signaling that it we’d be out a chunk of change if we purchased this particular bottle. But check out Chateau de Parenchére for a pleasant surprise: a bottle will set you back a mere $10, which seems a bargain indeed for such a delightful white wine. Made from Bordeaux’s classic white wine grapes, Parenchére’s fragrance is lightly floral without being too intense. On the palate the wine is both vibrant and silky, and it finishes on a pleasantly dry note. Infinitely more elegant and refreshing than the run-of-the-mill inexpensive white wines the region has traditionally produced, Chateau de Parenchére is an excellent example of how tasty a modern Bordeaux vin blanc can be. 88 Marguerite Thomas Aug 31, 2010
Burgundy:
White:
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2007 ($98, Skurnik): Les Caillerets is one of the best premier cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet. The wines, such as this one, have an elegance and refinement as well as the usual earthy notes typical of the wines from the village. Colin-Morey performs no bâtonage and very little racking, preferring a less opulent style of wine. Tightly wound at this stage, the acidity of the 2007 is apparent. Nonetheless, there’s plenty of underlying stoniness and minerality that will emerge over the next several years, so plan on cellaring it rather than having it with dinner tonight. You’ll be pleased you did. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Embrazées 2007 ($90, Skurnik): Similar to Colin-Morey’s Les Caillerets (also reviewed this week), this premier cru is tightly wound. Colin-Morey’s focus on producing structured, less ripe wines is amplified by the compactness of the 2007 vintage. That said, with time in the glass, it opens and intriguing spiciness emerges to complement the chalky earthiness. Bright and focused, this exciting wine needs a few years of bottle age to reveal its complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
Loire Valley:
White:
Domaine Dominique and Janine Crochet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008 ($20, Simon N Cellars): I can now add Dominique and Janine to the list of Crochets who make distinctive Sancerre having found this one on a restaurant wine list in Richmond. With so many wines from Sancerre tasting more like simple Sauvignon Blanc, it’s always a treat to discover a producer’s whose bottling delivers the chalky minerality for which the appellation is known. And at a reasonable price. Nuances of herbs and grass complement the expected stony notes. A lemony finish keeps it fresh and lively. It was an excellent foil for the intensity of steamed mussels, but it would go well with a broad range of seafood. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
Sud Ouest:
White:
Chateau de Jau, France (France) Sauvignon Blanc “Le Jaja de Jau" 2009 ($9, Pasternak Wine Imports): Perhaps you can’t judge a book by its cover, but sometimes a wine label does offer a reliable hint of what’s inside the bottle. A case in point is this one, adorned with nothing more than simple black script spelling out “Le Jaja de Jau, Sauvignon Blanc,” plus the signature “Ben.” Ben Vautier is an artist affiliated with an international art movement known as Fluxus, whose works are described as unpretentious, simple, fluid, and playful. These are adjectives that may be applied to Jaja de Jau as well. It’s a made wine, energetic, effusive, light-hearted, and not meant to be scrutinized too seriously. 88 Marguerite Thomas Aug 31, 2010
Piedmont:
White:
Principessa Gavi, Gavi (Piedmont, Italy) 2009 ($14): This is the dry version of Principessa’s Gavi and it is not only less expensive but a more enjoyable wine. Cortese grapes are gently pressed then cool fermented for 20 days, retaining a nice level of fruity aromatics and flavors. Light gold in color, the focused aromas are floral and citrus, while the bright flavors show green apple and 12% alcohol. The slight bitterness in the finish adds a layer of complexity as an aperitif or with simply prepared seafood dishes. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 31, 2010
Principessa Perlante, Gavi (Piedmont, Italy) 2008 ($17, Banfi Vintners): Following a cool tank fermentation, the wine is held in tank at cool temperatures, thus producing a “Perlante,” or slight sparkle. Made from the Cortese grape, this Perlante has a very pale gold color and an active micro-bubble spritz. The aromas are citrus and ripe pear and there’s a soft prickle on the tongue combined with subtle fruit, 12% alcohol and a little bitterness in the finish. Served well chilled, this sparkling Gavi makes a pleasant aperitif. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Aug 31, 2010
Sicily:
White:
Ajello, Sicilia IGT (Italy) Grillo 2009 ($12, Dalla Terra): This 100 percent Grillo reflects the sunshine of Sicily, exhibiting ripe aromas of pineapple and citrus, with refreshing acidity and excellent balance. It's straightforward and simple, but clean, refreshing and enjoyable either as an aperitif or with salty or spicy tapas. 88 Robert Whitley Aug 31, 2010
Tuscany:
Red:
Le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano (Tuscany, Italy) 2005 ($20, Domaine Select): Elisabetta Geppetti at Le Pupille is responsible for one of my all time favorite Super Tuscan wines, Saffredi, which hails from her property in the Maremma. Her talents extend to less exalted bottlings as well, such as this Morellino di Scansano, a DOCG in Maremma. Although the 2006 is the current release, this 2005 is still widely available at the retail level and is perfect for current consumption with hearty pasta dishes or even grilled beef. It’s loaded--but not overdone--with all the bright cherry-like fruit you’d expect from a wine made entirely from Sangiovese, but it also delivers a healthy dose of earthy, non-fruit notes. Typical Tuscan vibrancy keeps you coming back to it throughout a meal. It has style and complexity found usually only in far more expensive wines. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
Castilla y León:
White:
Shaya, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) 2009 ($15, Jorge Ordonez): Rueda, a small D.O. in northern Spain, remains under-appreciated as a source for reasonably priced vibrant white wines. This one, made entirely from Verdejo (not to be confused with Verdelho, a Portuguese variety also grown in Australia), has just the right balance of ripe green apple-like flavors and citrus zing. Pure and fresh--unencumbered by oak--it’s a great choice for the remaining days of summertime fare. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
Rioja:
Red:
Palacios Remondo, Rioja (Spain) La Vendimia 2008 ($15, Folio Wine Company): Alvaro Palacios, one of Spain’s leading winemakers, returned to his family’s property a decade ago after his father died and renovated the estate by replanting, lowering yields and redirecting the estate’s focus. He jettisoned the traditional Rioja terminology of Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Using that labeling, this La Vendimia would have been considered a Joven since it was aged only briefly in oak barrels. A blend of half Tempranillo and Garnacha, this fruit-forward wine is quite ripe--some might complain it’s a little hot--but has uplifting acidity and engaging spice. Its concentration suggests a more modern interpretation, but it’s not overdone. For the price, it is enormously satisfying. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
California:
Red:
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (California) “Cuvée St. E” 2006 ($50): A Bordeaux blend dominated by Cabernet Franc and Merlot (a la the wines from St. Emilion), this is an exceptionally harmonious and compelling California red, notable for its elegance and finesse rather than its muscle or power. The tannins are pliant yet present, and the acidity firm, so the wine should reward cellaring and become even better in a few years. Impressive. 92 Paul Lukacs Aug 31, 2010
Byron, Santa Maria Valley (California) Pinot Noir 'Monument' 2008 ($60):  You might expect that a wine labeled 'Monument' would have an extra gear, and you would be right if the winery happened to be Byron. Monument is winemaker Jonathan Nagy's selection of the finest barrels of the vintage from the estate Nielson vineyard. The '08 Monument is a beautiful wine that expresses notes of dark cherry and plum, and perhaps even some darker tones, with refined tannins that alone elevate it beyond the other Pinots from Byron in this vintage. It shows a lovely floral note and offers focused fruit aromas on the palate and through the lingering finish, with a slight touch of minerality for added complexity. 94 Robert Whitley Aug 31, 2010
Byron, Santa Maria Valley (California) Pinot Noir 2008 ($40): Byron's Sierra Madre Pinot shows a wonderful density of fruit without going to the extreme of fat and jammy. The lovely red-fruited aromas are supported by firm tannins, and complemented by nuances of brown spice and forest floor that are complexities that I personally find very attractive. The nose is floral and spicy. All in all a superb example of Pinot from the Santa Maria Valley at a reasonable price. 90 Robert Whitley Aug 31, 2010
Belle Glos, Sonoma County-Monterey County-Santa Barbara County (California) Pinot Noir 'Meiomi' 2008 ($25): Making a value Pinot Noir is a noble ambition. Making a value Pinot Noir that shines is an accomplishment of the highest order, for most Pinots that fit into this category are light and lifeless. The Meiomi from Belle Glos is anything but, showing layered red fruit aromas, an attractive earthy note and a hint of spice. The only off note is a hint of stemmy astringency on the back end, but not to worry, there's plenty of upfront fruit and flavor to satisfy even a serious pinotphile. 88 Robert Whitley Aug 31, 2010
White:
Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley (California) Viognier 2009 ($27): This wine has a lovely floral aroma, with accents of peach, lime and honeysuckle. This being an oaked Viognier, the wine has some richness, but it’s nicely integrated. It has well-balanced flavors of ripe peaches and lime, with a nice bit of acidity. 91 Tina Caputo Aug 31, 2010
Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2009 ($20): Here’s a lovely Chardonnay with aromas of ripe peaches and vanilla and flavors of peaches, lime and candied pineapple. It’s nicely balanced and undeniably delicious, with some crispness to balance out the ripe fruit character. 90 Tina Caputo Aug 31, 2010
Patz & Hall, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2007 ($38): This rich, flavor-packed Chardonnay has aromas of tropical fruit and peaches, with balanced, mouth-filling flavors of pineapple, green apple and pear, and a touch of citrus. 89 Tina Caputo Aug 31, 2010
Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay Double L 2008 ($36): Vintage after vintage, M organ’s Double L Chardonnay consistently earns scores of 90-plus at Wine Review Online. Forgive me for anthropomorphizing this Chardonnay, but when I taste it I immediately picture Catherine Deneuve at her most alluring. Blonde and exquisitely perfumed, it is an understatement to describe this Chardonnay as elegant. With an inherent steely character wrapped in the sort of luscious maturity that gets even riper and more seductive as it ages, this is an ideal dinner companion (I mean Double L, of course, though I’ve no doubt Madame Deneuve’s presence would also add infinite pleasure to any meal). 91 Marguerite Thomas Aug 31, 2010
Rusack, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Reserve 2008 ($36): An exceptional California Chardonnay, offering the expected (rich fruit, spicy oak, a hint of sweet vanilla) and the unexpected (exceptional depth, compelling complexity, and firm acidity). Beautifully focused and extremely well-balanced, with impressive length on the palate, this multi-layered beauty offers multiple charms and is well worth a special search to find or order. 92 Paul Lukacs Aug 31, 2010
Washington:
Red:
K Vintners, Wahluke Slope (Washington) Syrah “Milbrandt” 2008 ($25): Clearly echoing a northern Rhône style, being marked by secondary undertones reminiscent of smoked meat and black pepper as well as primary dark fruit notes, this exemplary Washington Syrah offers a level of complexity that far too few American renditions of the varietal can match. Extremely expressive, it definitely outperforms its price tag. 92 Paul Lukacs Aug 31, 2010
White:
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Dry Riesling 2009 ($9): This wine is an incredible bargain. A subtle stone fruit--peach or nectarine--character comes through and harmonizes with a gentle lemony acidity. Not aggressively dry, a hint of roundness balances Riesling’s inherent acidity. The style allows you to enjoy a glass as an aperitif and then carry it to the table to accompany a wide variety of dishes from chicken in a mushroomy cream sauce to a garlic-infused seafood stew. Buy it by the case. You will not regret it. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010
Two Vines, Washington (United States) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($8): With aromas of honeydew melon and pears, the wine is crisp and clean, with flavors of citrus and melon, for a touch of roundness. It’s simple, balanced and tasty -- and a very good value. 87 Tina Caputo Aug 31, 2010
Two Vines, Washington (United States) Pinot Grigio 2009 ($8): This wine has a somewhat floral aroma, with notes of apple and melon. It has similar flavors, with notes of apple, sweet melon and lemon peel at the finish. Good value. 86 Tina Caputo Aug 31, 2010
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