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May 6, 2008 Issue
Red:
Kuyen, Maipo Valley (Chile) 2005 ($28, Global Vineyard Importers): This delicious blend is comprised of 55% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Carmenère. Each of these grapes makes a contribution that shows up distinctively in the wine's aroma and flavor, which is an impressive accomplishment. Scents of cedar and anise lend complexity to the foundational fruit notes of black plums and dark berries, and the wine shows lovely texture, with plenty of ripe, fine-grained tannin that doesn't obscure the fruit. 90 Michael Franz May 6, 2008
Domus Aurea, Upper Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($50, Global Vineyard Importers): Dollar for dollar, no place in the world makes Cabernet that offers more complexity and class than Chile's Maipo Valley. Consequently, wines at the more affordable end of the spectrum tend to get most of the attention from consumers, since the value offered for the money is so striking. However, you would be well advised to pony up for a bottle like this for a special occasion so that you can learn how high high-end bottlings of Cab from Maipo can be. Wonderfully balanced and integrated, this wine features blackberry and black currant fruit that shows ripeness but also restraint. The fruit notes are accented with interesting nuances of cedar, tobacco leaves, toast and subtle spices, and the fine-grained tannins lend structure but no astringency. 92 Michael Franz May 6, 2008
Alsace:
White:
Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace (France) Riesling Andlau 2006 ($27, Wilson Daniels): Everyone, including me, seems to be beating the drums these days for crisp white wines to slake a summer thirst. You would think a Kreydenweiss Riesling might be the ticket, but you would be wrong. Kreydenweiss' Andlau Riesling is no quaffer. This is serious stuff, with the depth and weight of a classic white from Alsace, exceptional length and complexity, and a modest price considering its class. Rich notes of honey, spice and red citrus dominate the front of the palate, but the wine finishes with clean, fresh acidity and perceptible minerality. A beauty that will age nicely for up to 15 years. 92 Robert Whitley May 6, 2008
Bordeaux:
Red:
Château d’Issan, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($75, Diageo Chateau & Estate): Since Emmanuel Cruz took charge of this estate in 1998, the quality has taken a giant step forward. The 2005 Château d'Issan reminds me of one of the great wines from Margaux from the past, with its mineral-like qualities atop the quintessential Margaux velvetiness. The supple, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity lend structure to the wine's lush, ripe, black fruit-like qualities. Hard to resist now, it will evolve beautifully over the next two decades and reward those who opt to cellar this gem. 95 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Château Lagrange, St. Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2005 ($75, Diageo Chateau & Estate):  One of the great aspects of the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux is that the wines reflect their origins; the Pauillacs taste like Pauillac and, as in this case, Château Lagrange shows its St. Julien pedigree. Lagrange's blend in 2005--Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (45%) and Petit Verdot (10%)--is a little unusual for St. Julien, whose wines typically rely more on Cabernet. Nonetheless, it coveys cedar and tobacco elements combined with cassis-like black fruit flavors and a hint of minerality characteristic of St. Julien. Its tannins are ripe and polished, which makes it easy to embrace now, but judging from my experience with Lagrange, it will develop even more complexity over the next 20 years. 95 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Burgundy:
Red:
Albert Bichot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($16, Arborway Imports): Bichot, an underrated Burgundy négociant, will attract considerable attention with this bargain-priced, succulent Pinot Noir. It has real Burgundy character--earth notes combined with bright fruit--and is perfect for current consumption. 87 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
White:
Domaine Long-Depaquit, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Vaucopins 2005 ($30, Arborway Imports): In addition to their négociant line of wines, Bichot owns several domaines throughout Burgundy, including the excellent Chablis property, Long-Depaquit. This premier cru Chablis shows the ripeness of the 2005 vintage while maintaining the minerality characteristic of the region. Nuances of smoky flint complement the creamy green apple flavors. 88 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Loire Valley:
White:
Domaine Merlin-Cherrier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chêne Marchand" 2005 ($33, Vintage '59 Imports): An exemplary rendition of Sancerre, this wine displays excellent complexity after half an hour of aeration. The fruit notes recall ripe apples with a splash of citrus, and a host of subtle mineral notes lend great interest to the long, symmetrical finish. 91 Michael Franz May 6, 2008
Domaine Merlin-Cherrier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2006 ($25, Vintage '59 Imports): This new release shows Thierry Merlin-Cherrier, an excellent  Sancerre producer, at the top of his game. The wine is very subtle and very well integrated, but it shows lots of interesting nuances. Light-bodied, but with good depth of flavor and nice mineral grip, it features excellent balance of acidity and fruit. Its excellent symmetry and integration will make it very versatile with light summer fare. 90 Michael Franz May 6, 2008
Rhône:
Rosé:
Château d’Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2007 ($19, Kobrand): This wine is always among the best rosès from southern France, and the 2007 vintage is certainly no exception. Made from Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette, it gets the balance between lightness and flavor just right, with red cherry and strawberry notes that prove quite satisfying but still very refreshing.
88 Michael Franz May 6, 2008
Tuscany:
Red:
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2004 ($22, Banfi Imports):  If all Chianti tasted like this one, there never would have been a reason to invent the Super Tuscan category. Villa Cerna produces classically proportional, stylish Chianti year after year, so when a vintage like 2004 comes along, it's no surprise that they made fabulous wine. Eschewing new French oak and the addition of Cabernet or Merlot to their Chianti, Villa Cerna's version delivers bright, cherry-like flavors, alluring savory earthiness, and vibrant acidity, all supported by fine tannins. Drink now or watch it evolve over the next decade. 93 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Veneto:
White:
La Cappuccina, Soave (Veneto, Italy) 2007 ($11, Siema): Made entirely from the Garganega grape, this is light, crisp and refreshing, with subtle fruit recalling ripe apples. It will provide lots of pleasure for springtime sipping, and would also pair very nicely with simply prepared freshwater fish. 87 Michael Franz May 6, 2008
Castilla y León:
White:
José Pariente, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2007 ($17, Grapes of Spain): Always one of the two or three top renditions of Verdejo in each  vintage from Rueda, the 2007 from José Pariente is particularly good. Very crisp and fresh, it shows fruit recalling tart apples and grapefruit, with subtle notes of dried herbs and straw. Pair with almost any light preparation of fish or shellfish. 90 Michael Franz May 6, 2008
Galicia:
White:
Nessa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2007 ($12, Grapes of Spain): Good luck finding another white wine from Spain--or almost anywhere else, for that matter--that will offer this much pleasure and versatility for $12. Uncommonly rich and deeply flavored for a relatively affordable Albariño, it shows medium to full body, with just a hint of sweetness filling out the midpalate and fleshing out the mouthfeel. Nice peach and papaya notes are freshened by very zesty balancing acidity that is well integrated with the fruit. 90 Michael Franz May 6, 2008
California:
Red:
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Syrah “Black Chinned” 2005 ($18): This lovely blend of mostly (77%) Syrah-the remainder is Grenache (12%), Mourvedre (5%), Carignan (4%) and Petite Syrah (2%)--delivers a harmonious balance of black and red fruit flavors complemented by spicy notes. Mild tannins add needed support, and uplifting acidity keeps it fresh and lively. Despite 14.5% alcohol, this is a polished wine that is not over the top. And it's got a great price. 89 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Six Sigma, Lake County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($42):  This wine, from the producer's second vintage, is mostly (84%) Cabernet Sauvignon, with the remainder comprised by Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. All the grapes are from estate vineyards. The tannins are firm, not hard, and soften considerably with just 15 minutes in the glass to reveal lush fruit and an intriguing spicy, savory component. It has the cedar, mineral and earthy notes, reminiscent of Bordeaux, with ripe fruit flavors that are the hallmark of California. Without a trace of over-ripeness, it weighs in at less that 14% alcohol and is a powerful argument that flavorful complex wines need not be high in alcohol. With many top notch California Cabs going for twice the price, this one is a bargain. 96 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Six Sigma, Lake County (California) Tempranillo 2005 ($42): Certainly the best California Tempranillo I have ever tasted (which may not be saying much given the poor track record of that grape in California) the Six Sigma bottling is simply marvelous. Exotic spice and savory notes coupled with ripe fruit character meld together seamlessly. A deft hand is apparent in the winemaking because although it was aged entirely in new oak, the wine is not 'oaky' or overdone, just beautifully balanced and polished. The tannins are softer compared to the Six Sigma Cabernet, which makes the Tempranillo all the more immediately appealing. Yet, it should evolve nicely because it has sufficient structure for the long haul. The challenge will be resisting its charms now. 94 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Six Sigma, Lake County (California) “Cuvée Picque-Nique” 2005 ($18): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (43%), Cabernet Franc (22%), Petit Verdot (21%) and Merlot (14%), this wine is an outlet for grapes not up to the Six Sigma standard for their flagship Cabernet. The result is an easy-to-drink Bordeaux blend that manages to marry earthy savory non-fruit nuances with a healthy dose of ripe red and black fruit flavors. It's another good buy. 88 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Merryvale, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($50): This St. Helena-based winery's flagship wine, a red Bordeaux blend called 'Profile' ($125), was not produced in 2005, so top-notch grapes that usually go into Profile instead went into Merryvale's 'regular' Cabernet. It's 100% Cab and is impressively balanced, with rich (but not over-ripe) black cherry fruit, polished tannins and refreshing acidity. It's young and age-worthy, yet drinking beautifully now. 91 Linda Murphy May 6, 2008
Ramey, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($50): From Chardonnay master David Ramey comes this seductive red that's rich in cassis and black cherry fruit. It has Cabernet's classic forest floor and cedar complexity that is missing from many super-ripe Napa Cabernet Sauvignons, yet it remains juicy and rewarding, with a touch of black spice and cocoa, sturdy tannins and a racy finish. 90 Linda Murphy May 6, 2008
Faust, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($50): From Agustin Huneeus of Quintessa comes this oaky yet refreshing wine. Toast, coffee and creamy vanillin notes suggest liberal use of new barrels, yet there's plenty of pretty black fruit and slightly tart, crisp acidity to moderate the oak. Hints of dried herbs, sandalwood and cedar add complexity. 88 Linda Murphy May 6, 2008
Summers, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 'Adriana's Cuvee' 2005 ($25): There is great energy to this accessible Cabernet, which is properly ripe in its black cherry fruit, with touches of mocha, red licorice and toast. Bright fruit, smooth tannins and crackling acidity make it a short-term winner and a terrific price. 88 Linda Murphy May 6, 2008
White:
Six Sigma, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc Michael’s Vineyard 2006 ($20): Named after one of proprietor Kaj Ahlmann's children, this 100% barrel-fermented wine is a gorgeous example of Sauvignon Blanc. The oak aging adds a slight creamy texture and breadth to the wine without obliterating the lively aspect of the varietal. It's a hard line to walk--often the result is a Chardonnay wannabe--but Malbec and his team pulls it off, achieving a subtle and harmonious effect. 92 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Six Sigma, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc Rooster Vineyard 2006 ($20): Although Six Sigma doesn't own the Rooster Vineyard, the farming is supervised by David Weiss whose Bella Vista Farming Company  owns it, assuring that the care the vines receive is identical to their own vineyards. Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel vats, the crisp, clean, but not grassy signature of Sauvignon Blanc is apparent. It conveys a slight pungency characteristic of the varietal along with green apple-like notes without the herbal, sometimes piercing quality emblematic of many Sauvignon Blanc. Its brightness makes it an especially good foil for simple seafood. 90 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008
Gary Farrell, Sonoma County (California) Sauvignon Blanc Redwood Ranch 2007 ($25): This is a Sauvignon style that has fallen out of favor recently, but those wine enthusiasts who enjoy the toasty aromas of oak and lees will find this a yummy addition to the home cellar. The warmth of the wood notes slightly mute the fruit, but there is plenty there; running the gamut from succulent honeydew melon to citrus, with a gentle hint of minerality that helps balance the influence of oak.
89 Robert Whitley May 6, 2008
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