Gundlach Bundschu, Sonoma Valley (California) Rhinefarm Vineyard Gewürztraminer 2006 ($25): Even if my first encounter with this wine had not been on one of those steamy days that white wines are made for, and even if winery CEO Jeff Bundschu had not personally handed me the glass, I think that I would still have been bowled over by this wine.
Not that I didn't approach it with skepticism. In my experience, California Gewurztraminer disappoints far more often than it impresses. But I realized immediately that this Gewurztraminer had avoided the pitfalls of excessive sweetness, confected aromas and flavors, and dilute texture. This wine was varietally on-target in its substantial weight, exotic flavor and rich texture. It was also technically sound, with crispness to balance its fatness, and true length across the palate. And it was delicious.
Gundlach Bundschu Winery is one of California's great old family-owned wineries, dating back to 1857 when Bavarian immigrant Jacob Gundlach purchased 400 acres of land and planted a vineyard. Now in the hands of the sixth generation owner, the winery underwent a renaissance six years ago. The company overhauled its vineyards and winery operations with the help of renowned consultants Phil Freese and Zelma Long.
Gewurztraminer is a tricky grape because it needs a warm enough climate to ripen into its naturally large structure and yet it needs coolness to focus its aromas and flavors and to prevent the wine from becoming simply heavy and excessive. Gundlach Bundschu's vineyards, which are in southeast Sonoma Valley, just north of Carneros, benefit from cooling fog and wind from San Pablo Bay, which is 17 miles away to the south, and the Pacific, which is just 25 miles to the west. In terms of winemaking, half of the grapes for this wine underwent 24 hours of skin contact, and all the juice was fermented in stainless steel.
On a stylistic continuum that ranges from Alto Adige's leanest and most delicate Gewürzes on one end to Alsace's richest and most exotic examples on the other end, Gundlach Bundschu 2006 Gewurz falls almost right in the middle. It has Alsace's heft but it has Alto Adige's crispness and aromatic focus. It is a dry Gewurztraminer, with crisp acidity and a gentle CO2 tingle that further fortifies the impression of dryness and freshness. But it is a full-bodied white, with a rich, viscous texture. The wine's aromas and flavors play to both the rich and crisp sides of its personality: broad notes of lychee, ripe apple, peach and rose play with lighter, uplifted notes of citrus and spice. Gewurztraminer's typical, pleasantly bitter undertone grounds the wine in your mouth.
I am not an advocate of aging Gewurz, but I do believe this wine will drink nicely for the next two or three years, becoming softer as its CO2 component disappears. On the table, it's amazingly versatile, because it has the weight to complement fatty fish or light poultry dishes, and the delicacy to pair with fresh vegetables and herbs. If this wine has any downside, it's only its name. Personally, I have taken a cue from the winery's website and call it 'Gun Bun Gewurz' for short.
90 Points
