If you ask the average fairly savvy wine consumer in the U.S. his or her opinion about Chilean wines, he or she would probably say, 'Chile makes good, inexpensive wines priced under ten bucks.' I would agree with that comment today; 20 years ago, I would have qualified my answer to include only red wines, because Chile's white wines were generally not very good in those days.
But Chile's better white wines are only part of the story; Chile is more than just about under $10 wines today.
Like so many other winemaking countries during the last two decades, Chile has made enormous strides in its winemaking: better vineyard practices, improved winemaking from experienced, highly educated winemakers, more consultants, and perhaps most importantly, attending more closely to its terroir--especially, growing particular grape varieties in the most suitable locations. When Chile first started exporting wines in a big way back in the 1970s, almost all of the grapes for these wines came from the huge Central Valley. Today, grapes are growing in almost every possible region--from the Andes foothills in the east to the Pacific Coast; from Limari, just south of the Atacama Dessert in the north, to Bío-Bío (once thought to be too cool and too damp) in the south.
Chile does have many natural advantages over most other wine regions: much of its vineyard land is blessed with a perfect climate marked by long, warm, dry summers with plenty of sunshine, along with usually just enough rain in the winter, as well as protection from the elements by the majestic Andes Mountains on its eastern border and a coastal range on the west, next to the Pacific Ocean. Phylloxera, the little louse that has devastated vineyards throughout the wine world, has not (yet) shown up in Chile, perhaps thanks to the protection of its mountains on both sides, a dessert to the north, and extremely cold weather in the south.
One of the most important steps for the Chilean wine industry came with the development of the cool, Casablanca Valley near the Pacific Coast, west of Santiago, in the 1980s. Today, this is the major Chilean region for white wines, particularly Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and has become a major player for Pinot Noir as well.
Speaking of Sauvignon Blanc, Chilean wines made with this variety, or should I say, labeled as such, were generally rather dreadful 20 and more years ago. A major reason, in addition to the fact that Sauvignon Blanc was usually planted in the wrong place and/or over-produced, was that the grape variety in most cases was not Sauvignon Blanc at all but a less suitable variety, Sauvignon Vert--also known as Sauvignonasse--or sometimes Sauvignon Gris (a mutation of Sauvignon Blanc). Today, all of these errors have been rectified, and Sauvignon Blanc is now Chile's finest white wine. In fact, I just returned from the Fourth Annual Wines of Chile Judging, and a Sauvignon Blanc--Casas del Bosque Reserva 2006 (Casablanca Valley)--was named 'Best In Show,' the first time that a white wine has been awarded such a distinction in Chile. Sauvignon Blancs are generally made without oak aging in Chile, while Chardonnays generally are oaked.
New discoveries in wine are happening very rapidly in Chile. When Jancis Robinson published her second edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine in 1999, some of Chile's most exciting new wine regions today, such as San Antonio, and Leyda and the Limari Valley, were not even listed on the map of Chile nor mentioned in the text! Nor were the two important sub-regions of Rapel Valley, the Cachapoal and Colchagua Valleys, delineated on the map. San Antonio Valley and Leyda, which really became wine regions only in the late '90s, are now regarded as Chile's best regions for both Pinot Noir and Syrah (and also excellent for Sauvignon Blanc). Quite frankly, I had never tasted a really good Chilean Pinot Noir or Syrah until I made my first visit to the San Antonio Valley three years ago. Limari Valley, also less than a decade old as a wine region, has become an exciting new region for Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay as well as Syrah, despite its proximity to the Atacama Dessert, thanks to its own particular micro-climate; Limari is right in the path of winds from the Pacific, which are cooled by the cold Humboldt current coming up from Antarctica.
Just as Sauvignon Blanc was mis-identified, so was Merlot. It wasn't until the early 1990s that ampelographers determined that the vines thought to be Merlot were actually a field blend of Merlot and Carmenère, an abandoned Bordeaux variety. Until then, this mis-identification had created quite a disaster in the vineyards because some of the grapes (the true Merlot) would ripen quite early while other grapes growing right next to them (Carmenère) would ripen very late! Today, of course, they are growing separately, invariably in different sites.
Merlot, to my taste at least, generally produces wines of average quality in Chile. Cabernet Sauvignon is definitely king of the red varieties here; Chile's best red wines, by far, have been Cabernet Sauvignon and red wine blends dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. But I'm also a fan of Carmenère, especially when the variety is grown in the warm Colchagua Valley, near the coast; here, the slow-ripening Carmenère can reach full maturity. A wonderful example of Carmenère at its best is Casa Lapostolle's Clos Apalta, a Carmenère blend. It does seem that Carmenère performs best when it's blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot.
Not every variety has been successful at this point in Chile's development. For example, I have not been impressed with its Malbecs--Argentina does them better. Nor have I been thrilled with the few Chilean Sangioveses I've tasted, but this variety is almost impossible to make successfully outside of Tuscany. Likewise, the very difficult white variety, Viognier, has been less than inspiring in Chile. Merlot and Chardonnay are adequate, but I think that there are more than enough well-made examples of these two varieties from many other wine regions throughout the world.
Cabernet Sauvignon grows particularly well in many regions throughout Chile and will continue to lead the way as this country's major red wine; in time, Chile might even be regarded as one of the top areas in the world for Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Bordeaux and Napa Valley. Carmenère's picture also looks exceedingly bright; already, 98% of the world's Carmenère is officially growing in Chile (although it's also possibly mis-identified with Cabernet Franc in Friuli, Italy). It might happen that Carmenère will become Chile's calling-card wine, just as Malbec has become in Argentina and Pinot Noir in Burgundy and Oregon. The two other red varieties to watch are Pinot Noir and Syrah; both are really doing well in the Coastal Valleys. Meanwhile, Sauvignon Blanc growing in coastal areas is leading the way for white wines in Chile. (One of my dearest memories of my recent trip to Chile was enjoying platters of its fresh seafood and fish along with fresh, crisp, cool Sauvignon Blancs!)
Here are some wine reviews based on my recent trip to Chile:
Viña Garcés Silva, Leyda Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc "Amayna" 2006 ($18, Prestige Chateau & Domaines): Viña Garcés Silva (not to be confused with Casa Silva) located in the Leyda Valley, a section of the San Antonio Valley, is in the forefront of the exciting Chilean coastal wineries. Its 2006 Amayna is one of the most impressive New World Sauvignon Blancs that I've ever tasted. Its penetrating aromas and flavors of fresh lime just beg for fresh seafood to accompany it. It is Intense and exotic, with aromas of white flowers, great acidity but with soft texture, supple, and very well-balanced. State-of-the-art Sauvignon Blanc. 93
Viña Matetic, San Antonio Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc "EQ" 2005 ($18, Martin Scott, NY): Viña Matetic has been winning acclaim for its Pinot Noirs and Syrahs, but also makes very fine Sauvignon Blancs. Its best wines are its "EQ" line and they're usually listed under this name in trade listings. The 2005 Sauvignon Blanc EQ has been barrel-fermented; it is made in a rich, ripe style, unlike most Chilean Sauvignon Blancs these days. The winery releases this wine late because it takes a year to develop its tropical aromas and flavors, mainly mango and papaya. Paula Cardenas Sáez, the winemaker, insures me that the 2005 will age well for several years. 90
Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($7, Franciscan Estates): Agustin Huneeus, a native Chilean who ran Franciscan Estates in California for many years, was the pioneer in Chile's Casablanca Valley with his Veramonte Winery. The Veramonte 2006 Sauvignon Blanc has piercing, minerally aromas with great acidity, and is clean, fresh, and well-balanced. It does not have the concentration of the more expensive Chilean Sauvignon Blancs, but is a super value at $7. 88
Viña Montes, Leyda Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc "Limited Selection" 2006 ($12, TGIC Importers): Although better known for its red wines, Viña Montes is now making a superb Sauvignon Blanc from the cool Leyda Valley. The 2006 Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc is dry and minerally, with aromas and flavors of grapefruit and orange. It has very good concentration and acidity. It's about $1.50 or $2 more than Montes' two other Sauvignon Blancs, but is clearly the one to buy. 90
Concha y Toro, Cachapoal Valley (Chile) Carmenère "Terrunyo" 2004 ($27, Banfi Vintners): Chilean winemakers are finally understanding how to handle the late-ripening Carmenère variety, and Concha y Toro, with its upscale Terrunyo line, is producing one of the best. The 2004 Terrunyo Carmenère, made from 85% Carmenère, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc, has deep, rich, ripe berry and chocolate aromas and flavors, rich texture, soft tannins, concentration, and excellent depth. It's made in a leaner style, and is definitely not a blockbuster, which I like. It will accompany beef, pork, poultry and meaty fish entrées. 91
Casa Lapostolle, Colchagua Valley (Chile) "Clos Apalta" 2003 ($60, Moët-Hennessy USA): Casa Lapostolle's Clos Apalta has justifiably received more attention than other Carmenère-based wines in Chile. Made from two-thirds Carmenère with the reminder divided about equally between Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2003 Clos Apalta has a rich, seductive, velvety mouth feel, with intense blackberry and chocolate aromas and flavors, and a long, lingering finish on the palate. One of Chile's best red wines. 94
Viña Matetic, San Antonio Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir "EQ" 2005 ($25, Martin Scott): When I tasted Viña Matetic's 2003 EQ Pinot Noir two years ago, I felt that it was the best New World Pinot Noir I had ever experienced. I tried it again a few weeks ago, and I still feel the same way. Meanwhile, the 2004 is now available, with the 2005 on its way. Both are very good, but not as glorious as the 2003. Perhaps they both need a little more time. The 2005 EQ Pinot Noir is vibrant and rich, with tart cherry and raspberry aromas and flavors, and a soft, inviting texture. 90
Viña Matetic, San Antonio Valley (Chile) Syrah "EQ" 2005 ($25, Martin Scott): Viña Matetic's Syrah has received probably the greatest critical reviews of any Chilean Syrah. The 2003 EQ Syrah is simply mind-boggling, a great wine. The current 2004 and upcoming 2005 are also very fine, but both are rather tough and tannic right now. The 2005 EQ Syrah, very dark and dense in color, is very concentrated, with black pepper aromas and flavors. It needs at least a year to tame down, but should be awesome. 90
