How many new single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines do we need? More important, how many new single-vineyard Pinots will an already crowded market embrace? For me, the more Pinot Noirs the better, but that's just me.
Pinot Noir is a hot subject and there's a lot of Pinot chatter by a growing number of emerging and established wineries, specialists in Pinot Noir, looking for a niche in an already crowded wine market, while leaning heavily on a French connection. Recently, in this space, I wrote about Belle Glos single-yard Pinot Noirs, as a new look from the Cabernet-centric Caymus Vineyards. Now, another tradition-bound California wine family is entering the market with a new line of single-vineyard Pinot Noirs.
In 1853, Pierre Pellier sailed from the port of La Rochelle, France, destined for North America. Later that year, he arrived in San Jose, with wine-grape cuttings for his brother Louis who owned the City Gardens nursery. Once the brothers had the vines planted in the Evergreen District of San Jose, at the base of Mt. Hamilton, Pierre went back to France for more cuttings, returning in 1858. Eventually Pellier's son-in-law, Pierre Mirassou succeeded him and the family wine operation became known as Mirassou Vineyards.
For nearly 150 years, the name La Rochelle was mostly forgotten, buried in the dusty pages of the Mirassou family history. Generations came and went and by 2003, the Mirassou family had sold their name and the winery to Gallo, while retaining the San Vicente Vineyard and Mission Ranch. Earlier, Steve Mirassou, a member of the 5th Generation, had parted company with his cousins and eventually started the Steven Kent Winery with his son Steven. Then, in 2005, Mirassou, pere & fils, resurrected the La Rochelle name for a new limited production series of Pinot Noirs, adding a Pinot dimension to a line that focused mainly on Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
La Rochelle is a separate brand consisting of a changing number of different small-lot Pinot Noirs, made by former Mirassou Vineyards veteran winemaker, Tom Stutz. La Rochelle is one of a new breed of small wineries that make limited lots of wines for different markets: winery club, mailing list, and wholesale. While it has been a struggle to keep all the balls in the air, Steven Mirassou has kept La Rochelle moving ahead to this point, with the counsel of his father and help of Tom Stutz
At Mirassou, Stutz made Pinot Noir, among many other wines, but he was locked into using the Mirassou's grapes in Monterey County. The difference now at La Rochelle is that Stutz cherry-picks from vineyards up and down the California coast, from the highly regarded Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County, to the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County and Oregon's Umpqua Valley.
Why Pinot Noir, I wondered, when it seems everyone is making Cabernet or Syrah? 'Tom is a Pinot Noir guy,' says Steve Mirassou in reply, 'so we thought we should capitalize on his knowledge and love for the grape.' Then, there's the tie to the past. 'We already had the original San Vicente Vineyard near Soledad, in Monterey County that my cousins and I planted in 1966 with Pommard and Martini clones, so Pinot Noir looked like the way to go.'
Other Monterey County Pinot vineyards that Stutz and the Mirassous like include Sarmento Vineyard, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard and Paraiso Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. They also buy fruit from Deep Park Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains; Dutton-Campbell Ranch, Russian River Valley and Anindor Vineyard, Umpqua Valley, Oregon. In the future, they hope to get Pinot Noir grapes from Mendocino's Anderson Valley, Chalone in Monterey, the Santa Rita Hills, and Oregon's Willamette Valley.
Stutz says that his main goal is maintaining high quality, while not blurring the differences in the individual terroirs of the various Pinots. 'I'm using as many as 15 different yeast strains and almost as many different oaks. I use cold soaks, no hot fermentations on any of the wines and target barrel aging for about 16 months. I'm working to make the best Pinot Noir I can, but not imitate Burgundy.' Stutz is no follower of the high-alcohol movement in California wines, although all the La Rochelle wines tasted were at least 14%, a level which, apparently, seems to be the new standard for the industry.
The 2005 La Rochelle Pinot Noirs are now in the market or will be by September. Steven Mirassou says the collection includes 14 different Pinots and a Pinot Noir Rose. Eleven of the Pinot Noirs and the Rosé are available either through the club or mailing list at www.lrwine.com. Of note are the Deer Park Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 2005, with richly textured flavors, mouth-watering acidity, great depth of Pinot character and good length through the finish. I also liked the ample richness of the fresh berry flavors of Dutton-Campbell Ranch, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2005. The coral-tinted Mission Ranch, Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir Rosé 2006 is a delightful mouth-full of fresh berries and spice and hard to resist at this time of the year. The following three wines are presently in the market:
La Rochelle, Santa Lucia Highlands (California) Pinot Noir 2005 ($38): A blend of three clones from four different vineyards, this juicy Pinot has a slightly closed nose, but is showing lovely bright cherry-berry scents with back notes of citrus zest and sweet spice. The supple flavors are rich and textured, with layers of fresh fruit and sweet spice, leading to a finish with good length and acidity. 89
La Rochelle, Arroyo Seco, Monterey County (California) Pinot Noir 'Classic Clones' 2005 ($42): This blend of three 'classic' clones Pommard, Wadensville and Mariafeld comes from the Mirassou family Mission Ranch, planted in 1961. It shows the character of old vines in color, aroma and flavors. Deep and dense, the complex nose is still a little shy, but showing promises of ripe black cherry, orange zest and sweet spice. The texture is supple and silky with traces of leather, dark fruits and spice. This inviting Pinot Noir will only improve with another 3-5 years in bottle. 92
La Rochelle, Santa Lucia Highlands (California) Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004 ($52): Garys' Vineyard is rated as one of the best Pinot Noir sites in California and certainly is one of a number of stellar Pinot vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Wines from this vineyard are known for great depth. I found the wine showing an attractive, medium clear ruby color, which was a departure from the deep hues of the other La Rochelle Pinots. The aromas are bright with black cherry, dried citrus rind, and an earthy note, while the structured flavors have ample fruit, but are a little short in the finish. The 2005 Garys' will be released in November. 89
