I love Chablis.  Although Chablis wines generally don't have the weight of white Burgundies from the Côte d'Or and they definitely lack the flavor intensity of California Chardonnays, no other Chardonnay-based wine in the world can match the compelling minerality and endless finish of a good Chablis.

The Joseph Drouhin winery is one of the major vineyard owners in the Chablis district, although the company is better known for its red and white Côte d'Or wines.  It was a pioneer in Chablis.  Robert Drouhin, son of founder Joseph Drouhin, bought almost 100 acres of vineyard land there in 1964, when most of the vineyards had been abandoned due to phylloxera and mildew as well as, no doubt, war.  Today, Drouhin sells seven Chablis wines in the U.S., ranging from a basic village-level wine to a single-estate wine, three premier-cru, and two grand-cru Chablis.  For my palate and pocketbook, this Chablis Premier Cru--blended from various premier cru vineyards rather than being the product of just one of them--is one of the stars of the line.

The 2003 vintage produced very un-Chablis-like wines that packed too much alcohol and lacked the racy edge that makes Chablis special.  The 2002s were wonderful, but are disappearing from the market.  Fortunately, 2004 marks a return to crisp acidity and classic styling in Chablis, at least for Drouhin's wines. The company regards 2004 as a model vintage in Chablis that produced wines of great purity.

Drouhin's 2004 Premier Cru Chablis is barrel fermented but shows so little oak influence that you hardly notice it.  The penetrating aromas and concentrated flavors reflect both terroir and grape variety--tart apple, a hint of citrus, and a vein of minerality--with just a slight honey note from oak.  Structurally, oak enters the picture as a slight phenolic grip at the rear palate.  Drouhin puts all his Chablis through malolactic fermentation to enhance their finesse, and this process brings a vague softness to the wine, despite the crisp texture.  The wine is also fairly full-bodied, and has very good depth.

Thoroughly enjoyable now, this wine should improve over the next year, and continue to drink well for about five years thereafter.

Outstanding: 90