The Napa Valley wine industry is rich with
winemakers producing premium Cabernet Sauvignon as economics continue to
drive the prominence of the variety. So, it was a thrill to sit down
(via Google Meet) with winemaker Dan Petroski as he pushes the pendulum
of Napa Valley wines toward white wines that combine the sunny
Mediterranean with an intellectual appeal.
Petroski is the founder and owner of Massican,
which serves as an ode to Mediterranean wines. Massican's name comes
from the coastal mountain range in Southern Italy. His entire
production is white wines (and vermouth), producing several distinctive
Italian varietals like Ribolla Gialla and Tocai Friulano that don't
often get the
attention they deserve and are seldom seen in Napa. His focus on white
wines makes Massican the only all-white wine project in the Napa
Valley.
Petroski came to wine somewhat unconventionally
after a successful career in publishing. In 2005, he traded in New York
publishing expense accounts and power lunches to serve as an intern
with the Valle dell' Acate winery in Sicily — a move driven by his
Italian heritage and affinity for Italian wines. Petroski explained
that his time in Italy was, in essence, his second act in life
(following the first of business and marketing) focused entirely on
creativity and the art of learning a craft. He returned to the States
to work in the wine industry, serving as a harvest intern and eventually
landing the coveted spot as winemaker for Larkmead Vineyards in
Calistoga.
While at Larkmead, he began his personal label,
inspired by his time in Sicily and the beautiful, local white wines he
would enjoy while overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Petroski is now in
his self-described third act, having left Larkmead recently and
focusing solely on Massican.
The 2020 Massican portfolio consists of “Annia,”
named for Petroski’s mother, a blend of 61% Tocai Friulano, 27% Ribolla
Gialla and 12% Chardonnay and “Gemina,” a blend of 75% Pinot Bianco and
25% Greco. Petroski also makes a 100% Sauvignon Blanc, a 100%
Chardonnay, and dry and sweet vermouth, inspired by a love of Italy’s
aperitivio drinks. All of the Massican wines are piercingly pure,
refreshingly crisp, and easy-drinking.
Sadly, the wines from Massican are not so easy
to obtain, as currently only 3,000 cases are produced. The wines are
primarily distributed directly to consumers via the Massican mailing
list, and they are also distributed to
select retail shops across 14 markets. However, the shortage is slowly
easing as Petroski seeks to increase production. As a first step, he
will soon release a Whole Foods exclusive white blend named Emilia
Bianca after his grandmother. It will ring up for $22, making it
slightly more accessible than his other $30 bottlings.
Petroski doesn’t shy away from political
discourse, which with him is as refreshing as his wines. His Instagram
magazine tackles topical issues like fighting voter suppression. He’s
also long been at the forefront of the climate crisis discussion in
Napa. In response to my question asking if Napa has focused too much on
Cabernet production and not on what the ground can best yield, he noted
that the Cabernet phenomenon is relatively new, a direction Napa went
in part after Robert Parker advanced the scoring system. Accordingly,
he remarked that Napa vintners could pivot again to confront climate
change by planting different grape varieties akin to Bordeaux, which has
now expanded its list of permitted varieties. However, he emphasized
that many in Napa remain short-sighted in their Cabernet reliance, given
it is what fetches the highest price. Petroski noted it wouldn't be
until a Napa Touriga Nacional garners 100 points that the tide will
turn. So, for now, Napa continues to plant more and make more Cabernet.
Petroski is also passionate about changing the
perception of white wine in the U.S. and exposing those interested in
something new to his wines. To do so, he is dipping his toes into
myriad modern marketing approaches, including the Instagram magazine
mentioned earlier and the introduction of a non-fungible token (NFT) –
digital certificates of ownership and authenticity that can be applied
to wine among other things. He has also recently launched an app with a
white-wine emoji.
It's the rare winemaker who modernizes white
winemaking, tackles vital social issues, and introduces an endless array
of innovative marketing approaches. Thus, it's no surprise that he and
his wines have a loyal following. I hope after reading this, you will
seek out a bottle and join the growing legion of Massican enthusiasts.