Which one of us has not taken pleasure in sharing a wine we've "discovered" with other wine aficionados? And don't we all delight in being invited to sample a delicious and heretofore untried wine? Some of the sparkling wine coming out recently from the Loire Valley is a "discovery" worthy of sharing with family and friends.
"A bottle of wine begs to be shared. I have never met a miserly wine lover," said Clifton Fadiman, the writer, critic, and radio quiz show host. There certainly are moments in life when one might savor a bottle of wine in solitary splendor, but for most of us, wine is enjoyed best when other people join in the experience. Especially in this season of hospitality, wine is for sharing, for gift-giving, for celebrating. And nothing says "celebration" as much as bubbles.
Champagne springs first to mind when one thinks of sparkle in a glass, and for most of us, no other bubbly beverage beats the "real thing," i.e., sparkling wine made in the French Champagne region located 90 miles northeast of Paris. Few of us, however, are willing or able to pony up the price for, say, a half dozen cases of Champagne to serve at our New Year's Eve bash. We might hesitate to buy a bottle of fine Champagne to bring to the office party, or to Christmas dinner at the in-laws (who prefer eggnog anyway). But happily, the world is suddenly full of fine and reasonably priced alternatives to Champagne, with Italy and Spain perhaps in the forefront of the charge.
My own love of sparkling wine led me recently to France's Loire Valley, a place appreciated more for its Sancerres, Chinons, and Bourgueils than its bubbles. And yet, the only other region in France that produces more sparkling wine than the Loire is Champagne. True, there is still a river of insipidly sweet fizz coming from the Loire region, but this is a place that has definitely begun to pay attention to its fines bulles--"refined bubbles."
The Loire Valley is one of the northernmost vineyard areas in Europe. With its magnificent chateaux, its proximity to Paris, and its gentle climate (it is known as the "garden of France"), the Loire is the third most popular tourist destination in France. The Loire itself is France's longest river, and is the last wild river in Europe. The entire region lies atop a subsoil of tuffeau, the limestone from which most of the countryside's chateaux were built. That layer of limestone also nourishes the roots of the vines, giving the grapes a unique set of flavors.
Six appellations are allowed to use the Loire's fines bulles designation: Anjou Mousseux, Crémant de Loire, Montlouis sur Loire, Saumur Brut, Touraine Mousseux, and Vouvray. All come from the Anjou / Saumur / Touraine area smack in the center of the Loire Valley region, and for that matter the middle of France. And all are made according to the Méthode Traditionelle, the sparkling wine producing process that originated in Champagne. (Once the alcoholic fermentation is complete, the wine is left on the lees over the winter to acquire greater complexity and character. It is bottled the following spring along with a dose of unfermented grape juice that stimulates a second fermentation in the bottle; official regulations stipulate that these wines may be marketed after nine to twelve months in the bottle, but most producers age their bubbly for two or three years before releasing it.)
Saumur is by far the largest of the fines bulles regions, accounting for nearly as much wine as all the other sparkling appellations together. These wines can be made from Chenin Blanc and/or Cabernet Franc, with small additions of Chardonnay (and, very rarely, Sauvignon Blanc). Approximately ten percent of Saumur's sparkling production is rosé.
Vouvray is the largest white wine appellation of the Anjou-Saumur-Touraine region, with 4000 acres of vineyards. On average, 40 percent of each vintage becomes sparkling wine. The sparkling wines of Vouvray are made exclusively from Chenin Blanc, the only grape allowed in the appellation. Widely planted in the United States and in South Africa, Chenin Blanc is at its most expressive in a one hundred mile stretch of the Loire Valley between Blois and Savennières. I can think of no other grape except Riesling that can be vinified in such a wide range of styles, from steely and austere to voluptuous and honeyed. Chenin Blanc contributes a couple of unique qualities to sparkling wine. The first is a mellifluous flavor that is usually counterbalanced on the taste buds by a distinct minerality. The second attribute is the grape's amazing palate-cleansing acidity. In part because of this acidity, the best Chenin Blanc wines (both still and sparkling) have the propensity for long life.
Like Champagne, sparkling wine from the Loire Valley covers the gamut from bone-dry brut to demi-sec. It is not, however, a substitute for Champagne but rather a fizzy wine with a personality of its own. In general, Loire fines bulles have somewhat less effervesence than Champagne, and they tend more towards fruitiness than their Champagne cousins. Most fines bulles are excellent aperitif wines, and many of them can also make the transition to the table as appealing accompaniments to shellfish (think crab, scallops, lobster), and also simple pasta dishes (a personal favorite: spaghetti with pesto sauce and one of the more full-bodied fines bulles). These sparklers are excellent with most cheeses, and they can make singularly refreshing partners for certain cold meats, such as pâté and ham.
It's time to deck the halls, pop the corks, and invite friends in to share some Loire Valley fizz. Reviews of top current releases follow in order of preference, with suggested retail prices and importers indicated in parentheses:
Philippe Foreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut Réserve "Clos des Naudins" 1995 ($27, Rosenthal Wine Merchants): Philippe Foreau is the third generation of his family to produce Vouvray from the Chenin Blanc vineyards established by his grandfather in 1923. With elegance, complexity and a distinctive personality, this wine is an absolute charmer. Among its attributes are a hint of baked apple in the aroma, gratifying creaminess, and something reminiscent of the brulée part of crème brulée (but not the extreme sweetness.) It has vibrant, tiny bubbles, impressive length and surprising freshness given its age--proof that the best made sparkling Vouvray can age beautifully. 93
Domaine de la Haute Borne, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut "Cuvée Ancestrale" 2002 ($23, Daniel Johnnes): From a young winery (founded in 1999 by Vincent Carême in the heart of the Vouvray region), this wine combines freshness with substance. It is round and supple, integrating the brightness of green apples with the richness of nuts and a fleeting suggestion of caramel. The complex flavors taper off in a long finish. 92
S.A. Huet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut "Pétillant" 2000 ($25, Robert Chadderdon Selections): Huet is one of the top names in Vouvray. Each different parcel in this mostly biodynamic estate has a balance of old and young Chenin Blanc vines and a mix of soils, from clay to limestone. For the past 30 years the domaine has been run by Noël Pinguet, son-in-law of Gaston Huet, who founded the property in 1928. Only natural yeasts from the vineyard and winery are used. This Brut Pétillant is mellifluous but never cloying, with a touch of spice and minerality. A blast of acidity delivered with each sip makes this an excellent bubbly to accompany rich foods such as sautéed scallops, shrimp or lobster bisque, cream sauces, and any recipe that includes pine nuts. 92
François Chidaine, Montlouis sur Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($17, Louis Dressner): The relatively small Montlouis appellation is located in the Touraine region directly across the river from Vouvray. The soils here tend to be leaner, which can lend extraordinary crispness and minerality to the wines. François Chidaine, who grows only Chenin Blanc, is converting from organic to biodynamic grape growing (a practice that is not mentioned on the label, nor is it something Chidaine likes to discuss--the wine, he claims, speaks for itself). In this case, it speaks of apples and spice in the perfume, with emphatic minerality on the palate and a stunningly long aftertaste. 90
Domaine du Vieux Pressoir, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($18, V.O.S.): This is a quirky wine that tastes more of place and grape than many of the others in this roundup. It comes from a small estate and is made of 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Chardonnay, with each varietal vinified separately. Vieux Pressoir is a somewhat idiosyncratic wine, forceful rather than delicate, with the merest hint of something floral (candied violets?), and a hefty dose of minerality--a gustatory reflection of the bedrock of limestone that lies beneath the vineyards of the Loire Valley. The almost overbearing mead-like honey flavor is redeemed by the wine's considerable complexity. Some tasters will find this unconventional wine a turn-off, whereas others will be intrigued and charmed--as I was. 90
Francois Pinon, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($14, Louis Dressner): A former child psychologist, François Pinon took over the winery's operations from his father in 1987. He eschews chemical fertilizers and pesticides and uses only indigenous rather than commercial yeasts. The vines are, on average, 25 years old. The wine is vivacious, edgy and assertive, with a hint of mint and a somewhat sweet finish. 89
Monmousseau (Loire Valley, France) "Brut Etoile" NV ($10, USA Wine Imports): Made from 100% Chenin Blanc grapes, this sparkler is clean, simple, light and airy. There are no bells and whistles, but for the price it's as good as party fizz gets. Or consider keeping a bottle of Brut Etoile in the fridge for when unexpected guests stop by, or for whenever that urge for a refreshing flute of bubbles strikes. 89
Cave des Vignerons de Saumur, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) Brut "Cuvée de la Chevalerie" NV ($12, Fruit of the Wine): From one of the best co-op wineries in the Loire region, this is an uncomplicated sparkler distinguished particularly by its lemony flavors and very clean, dry finish. Sit down with a friend, open up a can of salted nuts and enjoy. 88
Monmousseau, Touraine (Loire Valley, France) Brut "Cuvée J.M." NV ($13, USA Wine Imports): Monmousseau, which produces a wide range of fizz including Brut Etoile (reviewed above), is a venerable firm founded in 1886, now part of the Luxembourg-based sparkling wine specialists Bernard Massard. Made entirely from Chenin Blanc grapes, J.M. delivers a blast of freshly cut apples in the aroma. On the palate, it picks up hints of minerality. Technically non vintage, more often than not the wine originates from a single year (2000 in the case of the supply currently on the market). This wine is somewhat fuller bodied than many sparklers, and it finishes on a honeyed note rather than the bracing acidity typical of Chenin Blanc. 88
Bouvet-Ladubay, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) Brut "Bouvet Signature" NV ($14, Kobrand): Made by a venerable company now owned by the esteemed Champagne producer Taittinger, this wine doesn't pretend to be sophisticated and refined. It's a big, raw-boned, athletic kind of fizz that delivers a rush of bubbles followed by semi-sweetness on the palate. All of this plus a cleansing aftertaste adds up to a sparkler that is surprisingly good with fried foods. Anyone for a bucket of KFC and a bottle of Bouvet? 88
Champalou, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV ($15, Kermit Lynch): The wine has a pleasant, almost floral aroma, and it enters the palate on a clean note. I wish that the initial impression wasn't marred by a bittersweet finish and a treacley aftertaste, but I did find that food took the edge off of these flaws. Like the Bouvet reviewed above, fried food in particular seemed a good match. 87
Langlois-Chateau Rosé, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) Crémant de Loire NV ($14, Paterno): In my experience it's not easy to find a great sparkling rosé from the Loire, but this one is pretty good (as it should be--Langlois-Chateau is owned by Champagne's revered house of Bollinger). With suggestions of ripe plums and hard candy on the palate, it is uncomplicated and undemanding, a good sip-by-the-fire wine, or for those in the southern hemisphere right now, an invigorating poolside potion. It's also a satisfying accompaniment for Chinese takeout, barbecue, or other informal foods with a spicy edge. 87
