|
Vallée d’Aoste, is located north of Piedmont and tucked into the mountainous region bordering France and Switzerland. Like many Vallée d’Aoste vineyards, the Grosjean family has been working their vineyards for multiple generations. Today, their organic and sustainable focused approach is a core tenant in their winemaking process. The 2021 Torrette is lighter in body but has an oversized expression of fruit. Tart black fruit, pomegranate, unwashed button mushrooms, iron filings, and rose petals all make up some of the complex but well integrated flavors that their Torrette provides. The wine’s acidity and tannins are nicely balanced and suggest this wine will develop further in the bottle. I would recommend opening a bottle now and saving another for late 2020s to the early 2030s.
93 Vince Simmon
|
Posted by Rich Cook on March 19, 2024 at 9:31 PM
There are so many wineries out there in the world that keeping track of their arrivals and departures could easily become a full-time job. Buyouts of well-known brands by large wine companies always make a splash, but the quiet transfer and subsequent rebranding of lesser-known estates can fly under the radar for some time. It’s a pleasure to be able to shine a little light on one such transaction – one worthy of keeping an eye on in the coming vintages.
High Camp Estate & Vineyard is located in the Estrella District of the Paso Robles AVA, the largest by acreage of the 11 districts. High Camp is the winery furthest north in the district, just east of the town of San Miguel, and just barely south of Vino Vargas in the neighboring San Miguel district to the west. Megan Mouren and Spencer Rawles left their Los Angeles careers – Megan had a dress shop in Hollywood, and Spencer worked as a set designer – in late 2020 (as the COVID pandemic was in full swing) to pursue a different sort of lifestyle. Megan comes from generations of California farmers, and the family purchased the former Ranchita Canyon Winery from Bill Hinrichs and set to work.
In addition to farming and producing wine from the estate’s old vines, there’s some serious replanting underway and some sourcing of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Albariño from vineyards south of San Luis Obispo to fill out the portfolio. Megan and Spencer wisely sought out the counsel of Central Coast rockstar winemaker Christian Roguenant, but as Christian would tell you, the pair isn’t at all afraid to get their hands dirty while learning everything that they can about what they’ve got and how to shepherd it from ground to glass. Next time you’re out Paso way, make sure to put them on your itinerary. Bonus – the views are spectacular!
I had the pleasure of tasting several barrel samples from the 2023 vintage, and you’ll want to make a mental note to be ready to get a piece of the action when they are released. Pinot Noir from Spanish Springs Vineyard (a favorite site of mine) and Jack Ranch in the San Luis Obispo Coast area south of San Luis Obispo are crackling with life and richness, as are a Chardonnay and an Albariño. Spencer said they use some estate Sangiovese in most of their blends, but after a taste of the ’23 barrel, I wouldn’t be surprised if a varietally-labeled bottling shows up. A ’22 barrel sample of Cabernet Franc from the highest, chalkiest estate site shows great intensity without going over the top, with supple tannin structure and huge finish push. I’d bet on scores for the finished versions of all of these landing in the 92+ range.
Of course, there’s wine in the bottle available as well – here’s a teaser for you:
High Camp, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Estate Reserve Red Wine 2021 ($45): Aromas of mixed dark berry fruit are joined by notes of dill, earth and toasty oak, all of which show together as palate flavors. A little grip holds the wood spice in suspension with the fruit, and they finish with the dill coming slightly forward. Fire up the grill and serve this with a mixed meat platter. Contains 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petite Sirah, 15% Petit Verdot and 5% Sangiovese. 90
Here's to intrepid spirits forging a new life in a remote place and sharing the spoils with the rest of us. Cheers!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jessica Dupuy
March 27, 2024: I've always been drawn to exploring lesser-known destinations, especially when it comes to discovering hidden gem wine regions. Last fall, I had the opportunity to wander the inner pockets of the Sannio region, which is located just inland from Naples, in the region of Campania. After a couple of days of wandering the dizzying streets of Naples, savoring delectable Neapolitan pizza and spaghetti alle vongole, learning the art of pizza-making, and taking in the coastal beauty and historic sites like Pompeii and the Royal Palace, I ventured east over a hilly pass into the lesser-known Sannio DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) wine region. This lesser-known area offers a wealth of history, stunning landscapes, and exceptional wines.
|
|
Michael Franz
March 27, 2024: Sommeliers hold a higher profile right now than they have for a generation--or maybe two. Even while acknowledging that the Court of Master Sommeliers has taken a couple of major hits due to testing mis-steps and some serious abuse of power misdeeds (within the realm of "Me Too Movement" disclosures and expusions), sommeliers are still among the most widely admired authorities in the wine world today. And rightly so--in most cases. I know some Master Sommeliers who are among the most broadly knowledgeable individuals in the entire world of wine. Sommeliers are having a remarkable day in the sun, and they deserve it, but there's one down-side: Once people hear about the rise of a class of professionals who are expert in selecting the right wine for their meal, a lot of those people are going to assume that they can't do this adequately for themselves. Which is simply not true.
|
|
March 27, 2024: I find myself gravitating towards simpler food, fewer meat-oriented menus, and in general focusing more on simplicity rather than complexity. Simple pasta, for example, is something I've been craving recently. What my palate longs for instead is simple, spaghetti-type pasta, but I want the noodles to be sauced with nothing more, really, than a drizzle of olive oil. Perhaps I'll garnish this simple dish with something raw, and green, and crunchy.
|
Mary Ewing-MulliganMarch 27, 2024: Tuscany is a remarkable wine region. Although most of its red wines are based on the Sangiovese grape - with notable exceptions along the coast - the variety among them is almost endless. Even within a single DOCG appellation such as Chianti Classico, the wines, always 80 to 100 percent Sangiovese, vary from commune to commune and from producer to producer. A case in point is my recent tasting of five Tuscan Sangiovese wines from a single importer, Dalla Terra Winery Direct. This company specializes in family-owned Italian estates and, thanks to its particular distribution model that eliminates the middleman, the wines are all very well priced at retail. More than ranking each wine against the other in terms of quality, I found myself characterizing the wines stylistically to highlight their unique faces. Sassy, pretty, polished, age-worthy or solid and complete: Even this mini selection of Tuscan reds proves what pleasures await an exploration of Sangiovese in Tuscany.
|
|
|
|